D é c o r & T ra v e l : E x ped i t i o n C r u i s i n g
Southern Exposure Once exploited by sealers and farmers, the Subantarctic Islands have been recovered and returned to wilderness. Intrepid humans can explore these spectacular hinterlands, but the sea lions, elephants seals, penguins and the graceful albatross rule this far-flung tundra now. Words & photogr aphy by Roderick Eime
p h oto g r a p h y : Pa r ks & W i ld li f e S e r v i c e s Tas ma n ia / N o e l Ca r mi c h a e l , e x e c u t i v e o f f i c e r , M ac q ua r i e I s l a n d
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ike a chorus line of overweight, bad-mannered beer drinkers, they gather to recite the only lyrics they know. Cavernous mouths agape and bulbous heads akilter, the adolescent elephant seals’ chorus is strangely musical, though reminiscent of belching. Here on Macquarie Island, deep in the “Furious Fifties” and halfway to the Antarctic continent, we’re technically still in Tasmania, postcode 7151. Occupied by a succession of Australian-Britons since its accidental discovery in 1810, the almost 13,000 hectare sliver of land has had quite the tumultuous existence. The
endearing but oil-rich elephant seals, which have virtually no fear of humans, were hunted to the brink of extinction. When seal numbers became uneconomical, the hunters turned to the similarly fearless penguins. And when they had exhausted the penguins, they abandoned the island, leaving rabbits, rats, mice and cats. Too hostile for even a penal colony, the island was employed by Antarctic explorers – it became a base for geological research and a transit stop for expeditions to Cape Adare, where Sir Douglas Mawson built his now famous huts. In 1911, a radio station and a few rudimentary shacks were erected on the northern
Windswep t l and After an eight-year programme of rodent
eradication, Macquarie Island is now pest free, allowing King penguins to nest and raise chicks unmolested by predators.
tip of the island at the creatively named Wireless Hill. The Australian Antarctic Division (AAD) built a more permanent base here in 1948, and has maintained a presence ever since. Nowadays, the population varies from 20 to 40 rangers, scientists and staff, depending on projects and the season. In 1933, it was declared a wildlife sanctuary and in 1972, a state reserve. In 1997, UNESCO included it on the World Heritage list in recognition of its remarkable geological features. A small contingent from Tasmania’s Parks and Wildlife Service, led
by ranger Chris Howard, now keeps an eye on things. A wild ride
“Welcome to Macquarie Island,” says Howard as we stumble up the rocky beach of Buckle Bay after being deposited by Silversea expedition staff. Landing on “Macca”, as the island is affectionately known, is no mean feat, and neither is getting here. En route from Dunedin, we endured two nights of howling gales and 10-metre swells that made the normally simple task of staying in bed a challenge. ▶
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To Wellington
New Zealand
Dunedin
The Snares
Macquarie Island
Auckland Islands
Campbell Island
Even safely at anchor, the short run ashore in the sturdy Zodiacs is a wild ride and there is a distinct sense of achievement as we reach the beach. Howard is clearly excited to see us. Fewer than 500 “tourists” arrive here even in a busy year and lately things have been particularly quiet – an enormous iceberg is blocking Commonwealth Bay, making access to Mawson’s Huts impossible. Howard is keen to share the big news on Macquarie: it has recently been declared pest free. An eight-year operation saw 12 hunters and 11 dogs walk 92,000km in search of pests after an aerial baiting programme in 2011. The removal of hundreds of thousands of rodents has allowed the flora to recover and halt disastrous erosion that saw the cliff at Lusitania Bay collapse on a penguin colony in 2006. Four species of penguins and albatross, as well as numerous other migratory seabirds, were badly affected, but can now nest unmolested. An escort of penguins
Absolute Bliss Top: The Silver Discoverer’s route takes in Macquarie Island, The Snares, Auckland Islands and Campbell Island. Above: Seals snooze in the grass on Macquarie. Once hunted ruthlessly, they are now watched over by Tasmania’s Parks and Wildlife Service.
After exploring Macquarie Island’s natural wonders – and sampling the best scones south of 50 degrees at the historic base – our itinerary loops back toward New Zealand and its own subantarctic islands. New Zealand’s islands (including the Snares, Auckland, Campbell and Antipodes) are equally distinctive. Part of New Zealand’s National Nature Reserve, these protected islands have their own
chequered history including shipwrecks, wartime coast watch bases, farming, sealing and even scientific endeavours such as the German Transit of Venus expedition of 1874. Some we are permitted to land on while others, such as the Snares and Antipodes, we are not. Instead, we circle and explore from the comfort of Zodiacs. Keen twitchers look for species to add to their lists, their long lenses wave awkwardly in the swell, trying to snap the elusive snipe or rare parrot. All the while, curious penguins escort our craft, heads bobbing up and down like a game of aquatic whacka-mole as they dive for dinner. Landing at Campbell and the small Enderby Island gives us a chance to stretch the legs, even though – in the height of summer – we are wrapped in parkas and thermals with bulky waterproof boots as protection against the damp turf. New Zealand authorities have installed extensive boardwalks which protect the flora and allows humans to explore with minimal environmental impact. Extensive pest and feral eradication has taken place here, too, in an effort to undo the harm caused by sealers and farmers and return the islands to their original inhabitants: the sea lions and seabirds. Antarctic GalÁpagos
New Zealand researcher and expedition leader Rodney Russ recognised both the natural beauty and commercial opportunity of taking travellers to what he calls “The Galápagos of the Antarctic”.
“These ecologically important islands contain astounding natural biodiversity and are a critically important wildlife refuge,” says Russ. “They are all in the cool temperate or subantarctic zone and are home to some of most abundant and diverse wildlife seen on the planet.” We set out on a lap of Enderby, the smaller satellite island of much larger UNESCO World Heritage-listed Auckland Island. Blessed with lighter than usual winds, we make good progress through the thick tussocks. Occasionally we encounter delightful, but timid, yelloweyed penguins making their way in pairs from the dense forest of rata trees to the sea. We also spot territorial Hooker’s sea lions, which maintain an important breeding colony here. The young males will charge, barking and blustering, to protect their mates. It’s wise not to hang about. These mammals are magnificent in their natural habitat, and we’re equally beguiled by the giant seabirds: albatross and mollymawks nest across the entire ecoregion, formally known as the Antipodes Subantarctic Islands tundra. As I learn from Malcolm Turner, the ornithologist aboard Silver Discoverer, almost half of the world’s species of albatross are found here, carefully nurturing their labour-intensive offspring in nests constructed so close to boardwalks we must detour into the tussocks to avoid upsetting the doting parents.
On Campbell Island, we hike 6km to Col Lyall Saddle, where the southern royal albatross nests near the peak. Normally, this island is swept with relentless winds gusting to 70 knots. But today, you’d be hard pressed to get a kite up. It’s easy to observe these serene creatures, which – with a wingspan of three metres, sometimes more – are among the largest of all seabirds. Closer to the shore, we spot gnarly giant petrels, aggressive predators and scavengers, closely related to the handsome albatross. Sealers and explorers were so unimpressed with these illmannered birds they dubbed them “stinkers”, or “glutton birds”. True to name, two cantankerous youngsters are squabbling violently over a putrid sea lion carcass. The glory and brutality of life, death and survival in these harsh latitudes sets an ideal stage for expedition cruising. The creatures we encounter – fair and foul – are the rightful inhabitants here and greet visitors with a mixture of curiosity, timidity and outright disdain. Thanks to responsible excursions like these, our understanding and respect for these delicate environments is enhanced enormously.
mindfood.com Read about a wildernessdriven expedition cruise aboard Silver Galapagos online at mindfood.com. KEYWORD: Silversea, Galapagos
Remote outp ost From top: With relatively few tourist boats visiting Macquarie Island, supplies are delivered by helicopter; the station on Macquarie is host to around 16 researchers during the winter; King penguins are curious but untroubled by visitors to their island.
FAST FACTS The Subantarctic Islands are one of many destinations delivered by Silversea Expeditions and its fleet of three luxury expedition
INTO THE WILD Expedition cruising in the modern era began 50 years ago when the first Antarctic cruises took place – the trend gathered
vessels: Silver Explorer, Silver Galapagos and Silver Discoverer. The 120-guest Silver Discoverer we travelled on is an ideal platform for viewing untamed landscapes: all suites enjoy ocean views, and there is plenty of deck space. Refurbished in 2014, Discoverer features three restaurants, a salon, pool, fitness centre and complimentary wi-fi. Silversea cruises stand out for the extensive enrichment programmes, from stimulating talks by guest lecturers to passionate expedition staff who bring the history and culture of ports to life before you even step foot off your ship. silversea.com
momentum with the “liberation” of the Soviet oceanographic fleet in the 1990s. It was exciting, but rudimentary, cruising with little in the way of creature comforts. Since then, the bar has been progressively raised and now established luxury cruise lines such as Silversea bring their own brand of five-star sophistication to the market. Along with the enrichment and fulfilment delivered in exceptional destinations, Silversea guests enjoy all-inclusive service with dining inspired by Relais & Châteaux and butler cabin service aboard state-of-the-art, purpose-built expedition vessels.
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