MiNDFOOD April 24 - HAL NZ

LAND OF THE LONG, LEISURELY CRUISE

Punching well above its weight, New Zealand is proving to be one of the world’s most popular cruise destinations. We sail on Holland America Line’s luxurious Noordam into the beautiful heart of Aotearoa.

WORDS BY RODERICK EIME

It was the first day of school for little 5-year-old Gordon Vogtherr and a day he’d never forget for as long as he lived.

Most of us have cheerful memories of kissing our mother at the gate, perhaps with a little tear mixed with a tincture of anxiety. But for Gordon, it was very nearly his last day of school.

It was almost 11am and the children in their crisp new uniforms were still excited when the morning recess bell rang. But almost as soon as the last clang sounded, the world changed forever for these innocent youngsters. On 3 February, 1931, the quaint provincial town of Napier on New Zealand’s North Island shook as if the devil had it in his grasp.

An earthquake that would later be measured at nearly 8 on the Richter Scale almost levelled the entire city. What little was left standing was almost immediately consumed by a furious firestorm fed by an easterly wind, leaving a desecrated landscape reminiscent of European cities at the

end of WWII. “People everywhere were running, heading for home. When I got out of the school I started running and I didn’t stop until I got home,” recalled 98-year-old Gordon on the anniversary of the quake. “You don’t forget it.”

In all, 256 people lost their lives in both Napier and Hastings in the Hawke’s Bay region.

The silver lining resulting from the quake was Napier being rebuilt to stricter codes. Despite the Depression, Napier was optimistically reconstructed in the dominant architectural style of the time, Art Deco, creating a time capsule of civil engineering that has won accolades the world over and earned it the moniker, Art Deco Capital of the World.

Beyond the city limits, the violent 3m uplift drained much of Ahuriri Lagoon, creating viable land quickly utilised for farms, industry, housing and even an airport. Napier has become one of the most popular cruise ship ports in all of New Zealand. Even a simple stroll around the central

This page: Noordam explores New Zealand’s magnificent fiords.

Opposite page, clockwise from top left:

Picturesque Larnach Castle in Dunedin; The décor of the Pinnacle Grill is matched by its cuisine; Rotorua’s Bay of Plenty; Napier deserves its title as the Art Deco Capital of the World.

shopping district is a delight as one enjoys the delights of this unique city, freeze-framed in the jazz era with its offices, shops and civic buildings all seemingly ready to burst into a rendition of the famous Charleston.

AWESOME AOTEAROA

Just two nights out from our departure from Auckland, Napier is already a standout feature of our 12-night itinerary aboard Holland America Line’s 1,900-guest Noordam And there’s tough competition from steamy Rotorua, seaside Timaru, regal Dunedin and the grandeur of Fiordland’s imperious vistas.

The balance of our itinerary took us to Tauranga, Timaru, Christchurch and Dunedin, where an array of enriching shore excursions were offered. Unfortunately Fiordland was bypassed due to an impending storm.

On our semi-circumnavigation of the Land of the Long White Cloud, we’re in the company of ships from Celebrity, Azamara, Silversea, Princess

and Seabourn among others enjoying the peculiar pleasures of ancient and modern Aotearoa. Such activity underscores the popularity of New Zealand and reinforces its position as a destination punching way above its weight in the global tourism stakes.

In fact, as soon as Noordam returns us to Sydney, she sets sail on an encore performance with a full house of adoring guests.

Competition among operators in their respective cruise segments is red hot just a couple of years out from the COVID-19 hiatus. Right now, pent-up demand may be filling virtually every vessel. Yet even lines with such enviable reputations as Holland America Line (HAL) cannot afford to rest on their laurels which, in the case of HAL, stretch back some 150 years.

HAL’s Noordam is one of nine Vista-class mid-sized cruise ships currently in service with Carnival family lines. Built by Italy’s famous Fincantieri shipyard, the design features economical diesel-electric Azipod propulsion, state-of-the-art pollution control and waste management as well as 11 passenger decks and a high proportion (85%) of cabins with ocean views. Two thirds of all cabins have balconies.

Her seakeeping was tested on our westward leg across the Tasman Sea where we skirted the perimeter of a

strong low pressure system producing almost 10 metres of swell. It was an amusing sight to see the mop-equipped deck staff in constant animation as the swimming-pool-cum-wave-pool disgorged its contents onto the deck.

FIRST-CLASS CUISINE

Holland America Line are well known in the cruise industry for their superior culinary offerings.

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Holland America Line’s Noordam sails around Australia, New Zealand and the South Pacific with cruises ranging from 14 to 39 days over a period typically from October through March. An extensive range of shore excursions is offered at each port of call, along with HAL’s superior level of shipboard service and activities. hollandamerica. com

returning to the Asian section, where delicious meat and vegetable curries, papadams and sushi were always available. One section of the Lido Deck is set aside for Canaletto, an Italian specialty restaurant. You can enjoy authentic Italian cuisine such as Sausage Paccheri, Pesto Genovese and Calamari Trenette, all paired with matching Italian wines. The tiramisu is among the best I have ever had.

I was curious about how HAL, and indeed all cruise lines, minimise wastage in such a potentially gluttonous environment where 230kg of chicken, one tonne of flour and 20kg of coffee are consumed every day. “We weigh all food waste daily,” Food & Beverage Manager, Melvyn Lobo told me. “We aim to stay below the 500g per person per day target set down by Carnival [HAL’s parent company] and we’re currently around 400g.”

FUN CENTRAL

One of the most vital components of cruising is entertainment, especially on the large ‘white fleet’ vessels where around half of any itinerary is ‘at sea’.

The Noordam features an array of entertainment options. Billboard Onboard is a dual piano lounge that is a clear hit with guests and often overflows into the distinctly lesspopular casino area. Meanwhile, World Stage, the largest theatre onboard, hosts a variety of performances each day, including stage shows and slick audio-visual presentations on local history and culture.

The main dining rooms deliver a reliably consistent level of superior restaurant-quality cuisine. They are bolstered by a small but significant selection from world-renowned Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto, HAL’s ‘Global Fresh Fish Ambassador’, whose mantra is focused on supporting local fishers practising sustainable harvesting. Morimoto’s creations are worth a sampling, especially the Lobster Tail with Lemon Foam, Vegetables and his signature Epice Powder. Any of the wild-caught Alaskan Halibut dishes are also a treat. Meat lovers are also well catered for either in the dining room or the specialty Pinnacle Grill where prime cuts are the highlight, especially the Tomahawk, a 36-ounce (1 kilogram) Bone-In Rib Eye.

The casual Lido Deck buffets are also very popular, where a surprising variety of cosmopolitan dishes are available as you please. I found myself

Rolling Stone Lounge (formerly B.B. King’s Blues Club) hosts bands in a live jukebox format.

There’s a couple of ping-pong tables and a pickleball court as well as the swimming pool that can be quite fun on a rolling sea.

Every cruise ship worth its salt has a spa and HAL offers Greenhouse Spa & Salon, featuring everything from a quick and simple style cut to a full facial and treatment.

To keep track of all your onboard activities and account, HAL’s Navigator app will display your account in real time, so you’re not always running to the Guest Services desk waving a clutch of dockets and queries.

Yes, cruising is enjoying a rebound and as evidence our sailing was almost 90 per cent full. As long as you approach your cruise holiday with eyes and mind open, you can be assured of a rewarding experience ... and HAL is perfectly placed to deliver.

PHOTOGRAPHY: MILES HOLDEN