TRAVEL | SRI LANKA
The Indian Ocean island of Sri Lanka has endured many tribulations but retains a rich and vibrant culture infused with centuries of European influence. WOR DS BY RODE RICK E IM E
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y heart pounds as I climb step after step toward the summit. If I’d been counting, it would have been 1,200 steps from the moment my portly person passed by the claws of the massive stone lion which signifies the base of Sigiriya, the 200m high Lion Rock fortress that was once the stronghold of King Kashyapa I. Blinking bright orange numerals at me, I’m not sure if my ever-vigilant smartwatch is chastising or celebrating when I reach the summit. Either way, I savour the moment and enjoy the sweeping panoramic views from the peak, along with several hundred of my fellow climbers scattered amongst the royal ruins. Normally one might expect throngs of dedicated mountaineers but in these early days of Sri Lanka’s tourism revival, the numbers are comparatively light and bolstered by locals of all ages and body types. A 060 | mindfood.com
Clockwise from above: Sigiriya, the ancient Lion Rock fortress, is one of Sri Lanka’s most iconic landmarks; Mists envelope a tea plantation in central Sri Lanka.
sari-clad mother cradles her sleeping infant as she gently places one foot in front of another on the metal staircase that has thankfully replaced the wobbly, rusting contraption of yore. Chiselled precariously close to the sheer edge are the older-still rough-hewn footholds that once served as steps, presumably for the soldiers, servants and slaves who bowed to the commands of King Kashyapa. Long before Kashyapa, the granite skyscraper served as shelter for Stone Age hunter-gatherers, followed by Buddhist monks and ascetics up until about the time of Christ. Their decorated caves and protected overhangs serve as a testament to these early residents. LIVING HISTORY The epic Sri Lankan history as recorded in the Chulavamsa (record of the monarchs of Sri Lanka), tells that in 477AD, Kashyapa killed his father
The idyllic location reminds me of Jaipur in India’s Rajasthan. Thanks to the numerous historic buildings and temples, it has the aura of a religious sanctuary and something of a peaceful retreat while all around it various wars, revolts and skirmishes raged. Our peculiar hotel, The Grand Kandyan, occupies possibly the highest point of the city, affording an uninterrupted view of the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Sacred City. Sacred, most notably, because it is home to the Temple of the Tooth Relic, a holy pilgrimage for devout Buddhists and we join the patient devotees in the early morning queue to see what we’re told is the final resting place of one of Buddha’s teeth. In the evening we visit a local family and join in the meal preparation, fumbling comically as we attempt to craft idiyappam (string hoppers) of smooth rice dough into noodle-thin strands that are supposed to form perfect discs. Our hosts clearly enjoy our inept results, but the evening is rewarding and the meal and company magnificent. TEA, ANYONE? Of course, no visit to the former British Crown colony of Ceylon would be complete without a visit to the vivid green tea plantations around Nuwara Eliya in central Sri Lanka. It comes as no surprise to learn that it was the British who nurtured the tea industry in Sri Lanka beginning in the mid-19th century. In truth, it was the
The oldest tree planted by a human is in Sri Lanka, planted in 288BC.
SEE YOU IN SRI LANK A
Intrepid Travel has been taking travellers to discover the world’s most amazing places for more than 30 years. Intrepid offers several Sri Lankan itineraries ranging in length from 8-15 days.
whirrs as it has done for decades, in a fashion no-one is in a hurry to change. Packaged teas such as Gold Label, Golden Flush, Pekoe, OP and Fannings find their way to overseas markets as well as the sparkling gift shop. According to the OEC, Sri Lanka exported US$1.34 billion in tea in 2021, making it the second-largest exporter of tea in the world. CATCHING THE TRAIN Train travel is a thing in Sri Lanka and we leave our minibus behind to amble through the spectacular hills and valleys from Nanu Oya to the party town of Ella aboard a vintage carriage pulled by a 50-year-old German diesel locomotive. Much of Sri Lanka’s rail infrastructure is delightfully old school and travel is at a leisurely pace with only loose adherence to schedule. Our conductor is seemingly immune to the peril that numerous social media butterflies subject themselves to by hanging, one-handed, out of the open carriage door. In stark contrast to the central highlands, the southern plains are reminiscent of the stark savannah of Africa, complete with elephants and massive water buffalo. African-style safaris are conducted in Yala National Park, where we enjoy satisfying encounters with these massive
mammals. Designated a wildlife reserve in 1900, Yala is home to 44 varieties of mammal and 215 bird species and claims the world’s largest concentration of leopards, although the cats eluded us during our visit. Our final stop is another UNESCO site, the Old Town of Galle and its Fortifications, established by the Portuguese in the late 16th century. Successive colonial rulers, notably the Dutch and then the British, embellished the structure to what we see today. A strategic and economic prize for any occupying power, remnants of each regime remain as reminders of the critical importance of Sri Lanka as an Asian stronghold. After centuries of European interference, Sri Lanka is now returned to indigenous rule but not before leaving an indelible mark on visitors, including writer George Bernard Shaw who observed: “I was convinced that Ceylon is the cradle of the human race because everyone there looks an original.” intrepidtravel.com
VISIT MiNDFOOD.COM
Try a taste of Sri Lanka at home with this Sri Lankan Street Food ‘Goat on the bone curry’, slow cooked so you can enjoy its tender, mouth-watering flavours and textures. mindfood.com/sri-lankan-curry
“GEORGE R. R. MARTIN COULD EASILY HAVE CONTRIVED THE CONTINUING SAGA.”
P H O T O G R A P H Y: R O D E R I C K E I M E
GAME OF THRONES
in such a gruesome fashion, even Game of Thrones fans would squirm. After walling his father, King Dhatusena, alive he usurps the throne from his half-brother, Moggallana, who is forced to flee for fear of his life. George R. R. Martin could easily have contrived the continuing saga. Kashyapa moves his capital to Sigiriya where the rock presents the makings of a defensible palace-cum-fortress, and he proceeds to fabricate the most impressive civil engineering works that include moats, walls and gardens that exist to this day and have earned a place on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Knowing that Moggallana would ultimately return to reclaim his rightful place on the throne, a battle ensues in 495AD that sees Kashyapa defeated and killed after his army deserts him. Sigiriya is abandoned and returned to the monks who occupy it until the 14th century, after which time its history fades. “Kashyapa rode a giant elephant into battle,” Dodan, our guide tells us, “but when he manoeuvred for a better fighting position, his troops mistook it for retreat and they fled, leaving him alone on the battlefield. Rather than submit to his half-brother, Kashyapa took out his dagger and defiantly slashed his own throat.” Of course, like any good fable, there are alternative endings, but whichever history you subscribe to, the wonder of this monument remains and can be visited on pre-arranged tours or as a solo traveller. For such an intricate site, an experienced guide is essential, like Dodan, who is with us for our week-long Intrepid tour of the nation’s UNESCO World Heritage sites and more. For an island about the size of Tasmania and a population slightly less than that of Australia, Sri Lanka still possesses plenty of green space. From the highest point of Pidurutalagala at a little more than 2,500m to the southern Africanesque plains around the historic city of Galle, Sri Lanka offers a rich variety of scenic and cultural treasures. The ancient city of Kandy was the last capital of the old Sinhala monarchs and was established in the mid-15th century, just prior to the arrival of the marauding Portuguese. Thanks to its location in the mountainous interior, Kandy held out against the Dutch during the 17th century but had succumbed to the British by the early 19th century.
canny Scots who kickstarted tea on an industrial scale, among them the famous Sir Thomas Lipton whose ubiquitous Yellow Label persists to this day. Big producers aside, some 65 per cent of tea is grown by small farmers as part of a cooperative. Our visit to the Glenloch tea plantation at Katukitula reveals the antiquated processes still employed at many of the smaller factories. The old British-made machinery clunks and mindfood.com | 061