Barossa Valley: Tradition meets Progression

FOOD + WINE

BARROSSA

WHERE TRADITION MEETS PROGRESSION

BAROSSA VALLEY

PRESENTING A VIBRANT MIX OF FASCINATING HERITAGE AND CONTEMPORARY STYLE, THE BAROSSA VALLEY REMAINS ONE OF AUSTRALIA’S FAVOURITE WINE AND FOOD DESTINATIONS. Words Roderick Eime and Winsor Dobbin

Pindarie Wines presents an exquisite view of their Barossa Valley home.

92 MAR|APR 20

93 MAR|APR 20

FOOD + WINE

BARROSSA

S

outh Australia’s historic Barossa Valley is synonymous with quality wine, particularly big, bold Shiraz from such labels as Penfolds, Jacob’s Creek, Wolf Blass, Henschke and St Hallett.

But despite being one of the f ledgling colony’s first wineproducing regions, with families who can trace their heritage back to the first vines of the 1840s, the Barossa is still one of Australia’s most cutting edge regions. Each new generation brings innovation and expansion, using the latest technology, viticulture and fermentation techniques to keep themselves relevant in an increasingly competitive, globalised industry.

Today, the warm summer sun continues to bathe the rolling dales of the Barossa Valley, much as the first Silesian Lutheran emigrants would have found it in the 1840s. The sandy loams and red clay terroir that characterise the broad Barossa region were quickly identified as the ideal soil for growing vines and varieties were promptly brought from Europe.

For many of those early years, Barossa Valley winemakers were stuck in a state of relative stagnation, producing mainly fortified wines. Then, from the mid- to late-20th century, skilled vintners began developing exquisite table wines to cater to the evolving tastes of the global wine market.

Nowadays, the Barossa Valley can be accurately described as “Australia’s quintessential wine region” with a reputation firmly established in the world’s wine market.

Owned by the Geber family for the last 20 years, the château is referred to as “The birthplace of the Barossa” and was built in 1890 in just five months, with the first vines planted in 1843.

The first winemaker, French-Swiss Charles Gelly, was the first to bring modern French winemaking techniques to the region.

Owner John Geber has in recent years handed over much of the day-to-day running of the winery to managing director and second-generation family member and daughter, Michelle.

“Over the past 20 years we have invested significantly in the wines and winemaking facilities at the château,” she says. “We think it is one of the best places in the Barossa to visit.

“Whether your interest is in award-winning wines, iconic architecture, history or even a relaxing game of croquet, there is something for everyone.”

WINEMAKING WITH GRACE

A hallmark name of the Barossa, Henschke, up in the Eden Valley, is a winery with a fascinating history – and a worldwide reputation. One of Australia’s oldest family-owned wineries, it celebrated 150 years of winemaking in 2018.

The family is best known for its $845-a-bottle Hill of Grace single-vineyard Shiraz. The tiny four-hectare vineyard from which the grapes are sourced was planted in 1860 – and some of the original vines still remain. They have been tended by viticulturist Prue Henschke for close to 40 years.

“I can’t think of any other single-vineyard wine that had its first vintage from centenarian vines and has continued to be made for another 55 years,” Prue describes.

Another real drawcard for wine lovers is Château Tanunda, which at 130 years old is one of the most historically significant wineries in the Barossa. The recently refurbished cellar door features a hand-crafted, bespoke five-metre-high reclaimed 300-year-old oak wall, sourced from historic brandy puncheons.

94 MAR|APR 20

SHIFTING TRADITIONS Clockwise from above: Stephen and Prue Henschke; Waves of fine reds at Henschke; Yalumba’s chief winemaker, Louisa Rose; Kaesler winemaker, Stephen Dew; The Yalumba cooperage in action; Craig Stansborough and Mark Slade of Purple Hands.

It is 171 years since Samuel Smith, the English-born founder of what is today known as Yalumba Wines planted his first vines in 1849. Robert Hill-Smith took over as managing director in 1985, at the age of just 34. He turned the focus to table wines, and planted varietals he believes are most suited to Barossa conditions, such as Viognier.

Australia’s oldest family-owned wine company will remain in family hands with Hill-Smith’s daughters Jessica, Lucy and Georgia all being mentored in the family tradition.

This inf lux of women into the once male bastion of winemaking is not an isolated event.

At Lambert Estate, husband and wife team of Kirk and Vanesa Lambert carefully craft their delicate, estate-grown, 95 MAR|APR 20

FOOD + WINE

BARROSSA FRESH FACES

For those looking to discover some of the newer wineries on the scene, it’s worth checking out Pindarie, a beautifully restored rural property and home to Tony and Wendy Brooks and their three children.

It’s a true visitor experience where NZ-born viticulturist Wendy helms the winemaking, utilising the red-brown earth with underlying limestone to produce their own signature varieties of Shiraz, Sangiovese, Tempranillo, Montepulciano and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Established in 1998, the Hewitson family are also relative newcomers in this well-established community, but still utilise 96 MAR|APR 20

GOURMET DESTINATIONS

PHOTOGRAPHY OF FINO SEPPELTSFIELD AND MAGGIE BEER FARM SATC JOSIE WITHERS, VINO LOKAL SATC JOHN KRUGER

single-vineyard wines on the Angaston property set up by Kirk’s US-born father in the 1990s. Their cellar door also caters to gourmets with lavish tasting plates and hot dishes in the restaurant.

With a cellar door in the main street of Tanunda, sisters Janelle and Kristen Zerk are fifth generation Barossans. They grew up on the family vineyard and have combined their talents to create their boutique label, Z Wines. Janelle, who has worked at wineries including Brokenwood and St Hallett and vintages in Tuscany, Sonoma and Burgundy, is the winemaker and Kirsten the marketing and export manager.

All their wines are hand-crafted in small batches with all bottles individually numbered. The Zerk cellar door and wine bar, which serves platters and tasting ‘planks’ to match the Barossa wines, is open seven days a week with the added twist of live music in the evenings.

The Kaesler family are another clan of genuine Barossa pioneers, who are now embracing an edict of sustainable viticulture centred on efficiencies supported by traditional pruning techniques and canopy management.

They have also rehabilitated much of their land with selective planting of native species which they believe suits the Barossa climate and enhances their specific red wine styles made from vines more than 50 years old.

Clockwise from this image: Vineyards at Château Tanunda; Vino Lokal; In the kitchen at Char Barossa; Michelle and John Geber of Château Tanunda with winemaker Neville Rowe; Succulent steak at Vintners Bar & Grill; Kristen and Janelle Zerk; Maggie Beer Farm Shop; Simple yet delicious at Fino Seppeltsfield.

the decades-old vines to produce their own environmentally sustainable wine at their Seppeltsfield Road facility.

Now here’s a story. In 2006, two blokes, Craig Stansborough and Mark Slade, each with a passion for wine and a tonne of Shiraz grapes, knocked up 100 dozen in the shed. While admiring the fruits of their labour, they pondered a name for their label. ‘Purple Hands’ will give you a clue to the inspiration and so it came to be. They now have a broad range of styles and while they don’t have a cellar door, keep an eye out for their wines on local restaurant lists when you’re in the region.

Maggie Beer is the culinary figurehead of the Barossa, and her Farm Shop at Nuriootpa reinforces the entrepreneurial success of this celebrity cook. Lunch is a must in daughter Elli’s exquisite Eatery next door, while son-in-law Brett dabbles in gin distilled on the premises.

Char Barossa is a recently opened bar and grill restaurant in the heart of the Barossa Valley. Much of the cooking here is done on the char grill, using fresh seasonal produce sourced locally wherever possible.

El Estanco brings a touch of South America to the region, while at fermentAsian, chef and owner Tuoi Do presents menus inspired by her Vietnamese heritage.

Long-time favourites include Vintners, 1918 Bistro & Grill and Salter’s Kitchen, while wine bar options include Vino Lokal, the home of Artisans of the Barossa, and Wanera.

For long lunches, Fino at Seppeltsfield is much-loved by locals and visitors alike, while Barossa Cucina provides an Italian accent and St Hugo, Appellation at the Louise and Hentley Farm offer high-end vineyard dining, along with Lambert Estate restaurant.

Beyond that there’s the Apex Bakery, Barossa Valley Cheese Co, Steiny’s Mettwurst and Seppeltsfield Rd Distillers. For casual visitors, The Barossa Farmers’ Market, held every Saturday at Angaston from 7.30am, is a great distillation of the region’s artisan gourmet products and a top spot to enjoy a grazing breakfast.

As a constantly evolving wine region, the Barossa Valley is constantly regenerating and reinventing itself as new generations of the stalwart winemaking families, along with talented newcomers, make their mark on the global stage.

97 MAR|APR 20