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Columbia picture: The Spirit of 98 riverboat chugs along close to the rugged shore of the Columbia River
Spirit of the American West Roderick Eime gains a Native American perspective of northwest US trailblazing.
BRITISH COLUMBIA Seattle
BEDRAGGLED and halfstarved, the exhausted Lewis and Clark expedition stumbled out of the Bitterroot Mountains that September in 1805 in their quest for the Pacific Ocean. Led by their Indian guides, they met the Nez Perce tribe on the lush Weippe Prairie in what is now Idaho. The Nez Perce, influential traders, expert horse breeders and custodians of vast tracts of land, had never seen white men before and, had it been their desire, could have snuffed out the shabby band in an instant. Instead, they welcomed them, fed them and gave them horses to continue their journey west. In truth, the Nez Perce pitied these desperate, helpless men, not knowing that aiding them would bring an overwhelming torrent. ‘‘When my ancestors first met Lewis and Clark, they called them Pai-yo-it,’’ says Angel Sobotta, a striking Nez Perce woman and prominent member of the tribe. ‘‘It means ‘something that smells bad’.’’ Angel is aboard Spirit of 98, our classically styled 100-passenger riverboat, as we journey east along the mighty Columbia River out of leafy Oregon into the wideopen plains of Washington State. We learn as much about her pride in her significant ancestors as her little family and young children. Even though she must have given this talk many times, her voice still quivers at the mention of her late grandparents that helped her recover and preserve these endangered traditions. ‘‘My people welcomed and helped these strange men who
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Columbia River, United States Honour: The 19th-century Nez Perce Chief Joseph, and (left) the terrain of the Snake River had rough hair growing out all over. The white men called us Nez Perce, or pierced nose from the French, but our real name is Nimi’ipuu, the people.’’ The story of how these brave white European men forged a trail across the unknown land, opening it up for migration, is taught to every American from kindergarten onwards. Our expedition is led by Marcy and Kate, two very capable and knowledgeable women who enlighten us with ecological, cultural and historical information at every step of the way. Cruise West’s Northwest Passage itinerary is a seven-night inland expedition that follows the 1805 river route of Lewis and Clark along the Columbia and Snake Rivers of Oregon, Washington and Idaho. Along the way we traverse the eight dams and locks now managing the once wild flow of this great waterway, and learn the significance of the rivers and
the neighbouring lands to the various tribes who once inhabited the shores. Evocative names such as Umatilla, Cayuse and Walla Walla derive from the once great tribal nations now distilled to a few remaining reservations. Hilda Alexander, a regal, handsome woman of the Cayuse tribe meets me in the gift shop at the immaculate Tamastslikt Cultural Institute outside the wild west town of Pendleton. In her hand is an intricately woven and beaded basket hat. ‘‘The basket hat holds deep meaning for most Columbia River people today,’’ says Hilda, admiring the fine coloured beads arranged with precision. They were once heirlooms, but now they’re pretty rare. I catch a glimpse of the price on the swing ticket: $1350. As the value of trading goods, artefacts and trinkets paved the way for white settlement of the tribal lands, little value was
14 July 5, 2009 escape THE SUNDAY TELEGRAPH www.sundaytelegraph.com.au
placed on the preservation of native culture and respect for their rights to ancestral lands. Angel, whose traditional name is Ta-lalt-lilpt (Sunset), sees my eyes wide as I hang on to her every word. She approaches me with a tiny offering of red and white trade beads. ‘‘Just like 200 years ago, I give you this as a symbol of peace and friendship,’’ she says. ‘‘OK, it’s an imitation, but my friendship is real.’’ In spite of the litany of injustices, the diseases and many acts of brutality inflicted on the Nez Perce and other tribes, Angel is steadfast in her message. ‘‘We don’t want anybody to come up here and say, ‘I’m sorry for what happened’, because it’s not your fault. We’re here to pray for healing, peace and understanding. Our responsibility is for what happens in the future.’’
■ The writer was a guest of Cruise West and V Australia.
Getting there: The writer flew V Australia (www.vaustralia.com.au) to Los Angeles, connecting to Portland, Oregon. Tour: Cruise West’s Northwest Passage is seven nights, Portland to Portland. Prices begin at US$2999 per person which covers taxes, port charges, fees, tours and onboard services. www.cruisewest.com More: www.tamast slikt .org
Angel Sobotta of the Nez Perce tribe