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EVERYONE loves a party BY RodERICK Eime

Even in the remote jungle villages of Papua New Guinea, there’s nothing more fun than a good old dance party and sing-song.

apua New Guinea is invariably described with lavish adjectives like ‘wild’, ‘untamed’ and ‘pristine.’ Some of those are certainly true, but every so often one needs a reminder about how these terms came about. In a land of more than 800 distinct languages and a multitude of bizarre customs, rites and superstitions, it’s the performing arts that meld this land of diverse cultures into something like one. Most of us would have caught our first sight of the outrageous costumes of PNG dancers on the pages of worldly travel magazines. But before that, intrepid documentary-makers like Captain Frank Hurley and Mick Leahy brought moving pictures to gob-smacked audiences in the days before television. Nowadays, it’s a trivial matter to transport ourselves to the major centres of PNG and witness firsthand these energetic and vibrant

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performances at one of the many events around the country. Madang-based anthropologist, Nancy Sullivan (nancysullivan.net), has lived and worked in PNG for almost a quarter of a century. During that time she has spent thousands of hours with the people of PNG, helping them preserve tradition, culture and heritage. She reminds us that the shows are much more than a tourist attraction. “The cultural significance of these shows is varied,” says Sullivan. “Some of the newer ones reconstruct ancient trade opportunities and large ritual exchange systems that don’t happen anymore. The older ones, like the Goroka and Hagen Shows, were actually established by the Australian Government to divert tribal fighting into ‘vogue-ing’, if you will. “Tourists are surprised to learn that even in peak season (and these shows coordinate

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PEOPLE POWER Clockwise from below: Paddling hard at the Canoe Festival; Tourists practicing their dancing at the Goroka Show; Mudmen at mask festival Opposite page: Enga Dancers at Mt Hagen Show Opening spread: Young girl at the Goroka Show

“A relatively new event on the festival roster, this drum and canoe extravaganza has taken off like wild fire” with tourism months) they are always the secondary reason for the show. We simply do not have enough tourists to justify any single show, so they will be happily overwhelmed by local tourists and participants genuinely having a ball. “In the highlands you can even visit the stall where performers are dressing and doing make up. In Goroka, for example, you have to walk away from the showgrounds to do so, but not in Hagen. These are unbelievable photo ops. Don’t be surprised if most cameras you see are held by locals, not tourists.” So just where and when can you go to see these outrageous gatherings? Let’s have a look at the major shows as well as a few you’ve never heard of.

Mount Hagen Show Arguably one of best known cultural events in the entire Pacific region, the Mt Hagen show was first staged in 1961, prior to PNG’s independence in 1975. The Mount Hagen region was one of the last parts of the country to be discovered by Europeans, with the first ‘white’ encounters taking place in 1930 when Australian gold prospectors came to the Wahgi Valley. The Australian colonial government introduced the Mount Hagen Show as a means to quell and control the tribal infighting, turning serious showdowns into colourful dance-offs. Held annually in August, the show is a sell-out, so make arrangements early. Expect to see music performances and craft markets along with cultural ‘singsings’ from the entire Western Highlands Province.

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Goroka Show Rivalled only by the big Mount Hagen Show, Goroka’s staging of their annual festival is right up there. As with their highland cousins, the Goroka Show was inaugurated by Australian colonial administrators in the late ‘50s as a way of demonstrating their own control of the populace in a peaceful and entertaining way. Hundreds of regional tribal clans converge on Goroka every September on the weekend closest to Independence Day, the 16th. A highlight of this classic event featuring the people of the eastern Highlands Province, is the famous mud men and their scary masks and ghostly body paint.

together a more homogenous group than elsewhere. Nevertheless, the Enga Show has a reputation for colour and action together with a theme of cultural unity.

Crocodile Festival Also in August, this Sepik River festival takes place in one of the most remote and isolated coastal regions of PNG, the East Sepik Province. As the name suggests, this three-day festival highlights the deep spiritual and magical bond between the men of the region and this ferocious animal that inhabits both fresh and salt water. Part cultural, part environmental, the two are inextricably linked as this bizarre relationship between man and monster is celebrated. A feature of this festival is being able to see up close the unimaginably intricate body enhancements applied to the Sepik men who worship the crocodile whose populations on this exotic river are among the largest in the world. Definitely one for the Indiana Joneses.

Warwagira Mask Festival

A relatively new event on the festival roster, this drum and canoe extravaganza has taken off like wild fire since it was first staged in 2003 and quickly established itself as one of the country’s top shows. The Milne Bay-based November event showcases the exquisitely carved and decorated traditional canoes as well as the highly significant Kundu drums. In a grand curtain-raiser, many canoes gather to form a spectacular convoy into the picturesque harbour of the provincial capital, Alotau.

Up in East New Britain in July is the hauntingly beautiful National Mask Festival that only began in 1995. Near the volcano-ravaged town of Rabaul is Kokopo, site of the new airport and venue for this sensational event. Celebrating the famous mask culture of PNG, masks from all over New Ireland and other parts of PNG are brought together in a most significant event, the highlight of which is Kinavai the dawn arrival of the ‘tubuans’, a much-feared and revered ancestral spirit of the Tolai people. At the end of the day, be treated to the Baining Fire Dance, a heart-stopping ritual performed only by these highly spiritual people.

Enga Show

Morobe Show

While confirmed for August 2014, Enga is less regular than the main shows, but is home to the largest of the 800-something ethnic and linguistic groups in the nation. Staging takes place in Wabag Town in the northernmost province of the five in the highlands region and brings

First staged in 1959 in the capital of Morobe Province, Lae, the show began as an agricultural and horticultural display but quickly developed to include a strong cultural component. Held annually in October, the show includes displays and exhibitions culminating in a prize-giving ceremony.

Kenu and Kundu Festival

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other festivals and events: • July 15-17: Malagan Festival, Kavieng • July 19-21: Kontu Shark Callers Festival, Kontu Village, New Ireland • September 3-4: Garamut and Flute Festival, Wewak • September: Skin Bilas Festival • September: Hamamas Wik, Tabubil • September: Maborasa Show, Madang –213–

FEATHERED FRIENDS Clockwise from above: Young Trobriand Island boys from Kiriwina Island in traditional bilas; Miss Hiri Hanenamo at Hiri Moale festival

Hiri Moale Festival Centred in the capital, Port Moresby, this joyous festival celebrates the famous Hiri trade voyages that continued until the 1950s. The festival traditionally takes place around Independence Day (16 September) and is used to recall the times of these important but dangerous voyages of the Motu people. Featuring canoe races, music, arts and crafts, the highlight is certainly the Hiri Queen parade where young women dance and twirl in grass skirts for a mesmerised audience.

Milamala Festival Also known as the Yam Harvest Festival it is widely known through the writings of anthropologists, like Malinowski, who studied in great detail the handsome and exotic culture of the Trobriand Islanders. Usually held in late July or early August, it outwardly celebrates a bountiful harvest but is better known for the glamorous dancing parades in places like Kiriwina. Truly a sight to behold.

The Tumbuna Show This private singsing is arranged annually for guests of Trans Niugini Tours and held at a village about 45 minutes by road from Mount Hagen. Convenient for travellers unable to synchronise with the heavy demand periods of the major shows, it nonetheless contains all the colour and action of the highland cultures, albeit in a more compact and relaxed package. • Photography by Kirklandphotos.com

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travel facts GETTING THERE Air Niugini code-sharing with Qantas operate non-stop flights between Port Moresby and Sydney, Brisbane and Cairns. Virgin Australia flies to PNG from Brisbane. Rather than overnighting in Port Moresby, it is advisable to take a connecting flight to your final PNG destination the same day. Qantas; 131-313, qantas.com.au Air Niugini; 1300-361-380, airniugini.com.ng Virgin Australia; 136-789; virginaustalia.com FURTHER INFORMATION The PNG Tourism Promotion Authority publishes a calendar of events, detailing the exact times, dates, locations and contacts for each of these festivals so you can plan travel to coincide with their staging. 61-2/9028-3594, papuanewguinea.travel/events Trans Niugini Tours, pngtours.com vacationsandtravelmag.com

E V ’ U O Y THINK ? L L A T I SEEN

Travel destinations don’t come more diverse than Papua New Guinea – over 750 cultural groups passionately maintain their unique heritage through cultural ceremonies set amongst some of the most stunning scenery in the world.