Vacations 104 | True North | HAL Alaska

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Oct/Nov/Dec 2017 Issue 104

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Off to

Europe’s Top Spas

the USA . . . . .

U

INNSBRUCK

AUSTIN GRAPEVINE NEVADA NEW YORK HAWAII

CITY FEASTS DUBLIN SHANGHAI TOKYO

BUSH TUCKER IN ULURU DISCOVER THE PEEL REGION IN WA

AU$12.95

PLUS Walk the Kumano, Japan Bengaluru, India

CHILE: LAND

OF CONTRASTS ETHIOPIA

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SOLOMON ISLANDS

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ALASKA

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COOK ISLANDS

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KIMBERLEY

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vacationsmag.com

K I NG OF THE

Kimberley

BY RODERICK EIME

True North Adventure Cruises are a great way to discover the Kimberley, with founder, Craig Howson OAM, working in the area since 1983.

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Opening image: Almost like a celebrity, True North shines under lights, © Shaun Hutton, True North Adventure Cruises.

Clockwise from right: True North at King Georges Falls; A helicopter flight makes for a memorable experience; Walk along the white sands of the Kimberley.

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o fully understand the Kimberley is to take a journey back through the ages, to a time when the early ancestors of modern man were beginning to reach Europe and take up residence in the alpine caves. This is the time when many believe the first people arrived in Australia, creating the mysterious Gwion Gwion rock art that could well be the oldest anywhere in the world. These first arrivals set foot on a land much different than today, yet the heart of the Kimberley had been long established over millions of years.

As recently as 50 years ago, the Kimberley was still a wild frontier with a history quite apart from anywhere else in the country. Japanese, Chinese and various Europeans had created an economy seemingly out of nothing. Pearling was well established in Broome and the surrounding plains had maintained vast herds of cattle for many years before.

Lobster harvesting was also a prime source of income for the hardy, remote folk who defied the norms of civilisation to create wealth and prosperity in one of the harshest environments anywhere on the planet.

It was into this arid no-man’s-land of Australia’s great North West that Craig Howson cut his teeth. As an energetic young man, Howson toiled on the deck of a cray fishing boat, slicing

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his fingers on the sharp twine and wire of the cray pots and impaling himself on the thorny shells of the lobsters until he’d perfected his craft. It’s hard to imagine today’s Internet-era youngsters subjecting themselves to such discomforts in the course of their work.

“I left home at 18 of my own accord,” recalls Craig with a chuckle. “I’m sure mother missed me.”

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His mother and brother have a slightly different recollection.

“He was basically a good kid, but pretty wild,” says his mum.

“But very determined which obviously stood him in good stead for later in life.”

“At 21 I got my first boat, Passport,” says Craig, “a basic 40-foot fishing boat with a big back deck.”

This boat launched him into the fishing charter business and also gained a reputation for good times and parties.

Howson’s enthusiasm for fishing saw him develop quickly as an expert angler trolling for the elusive barramundi in the estuaries and wrestling the giant pelagic species in the rich waters off Shark Bay and Broome. Despite his tender age, his skill and local knowledge were widely known through the North West.

When he headed to Perth for the America’s Cup in 1983 to throw a party on Rottnest Island, Howson shot to rock star status after his wild shindig hit all the papers and sealed his reputation as a fun-loving bloke who could make things happen.

With his brother Terry, Howson also became a skilled sailor, racing Lasers at the Rockingham Yacht Club. In the lead-up to the 1987 America’s Cup in Fremantle, Howson struck up a friendship with members of the Canadian syndicate who were preparing their vessel, True North, for the big event. Howson built and operated the tender boat for the Canadians, christening it ‘North Star’.

The euphoria of the ‘83 America’s Cup was short-lived and the ‘Auld Mug’ headed back to the States, leaving vacationsmag.com

Howson wondering what to do next. It wasn’t long before he was back in action, running fishing charters out of Broome aboard the trusty North Star, supplemented by delivering fuel to private vessels.

After acquiring valuable local navigational skills from Broome elder, Dan Gregory, Howson was equipped to begin comprehensive charters in the wider Kimberley region in 1991, including the ground breaking two-week voyages to Wyndham in his new 10-passenger vessel, North Star IV. –187–

Clockwise from above: True North’s luxurious Explorer Class Cabin; See the waterfalls of the Kimberley up close with True North; True North Adventure Cruise’s founder, Craig Howson OAM.

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“We charted the whole Kimberley pretty much by hitting every darn rock,” recalls Craig about operating in this remote area, notoriously devoid of reliable maps. Today that hardearned local knowledge allows True North to access areas other operators only dream about.

1994 saw another watershed event when the 21-metre True North I was launched, heralding a new era in charter operations for Howson and gaining the attention of prominent citizens such as former National Party leader and Deputy Prime Minister, Doug Anthony. It was at this time that Howson became a father, having to hurriedly evacuate to Broome from Bigge Island in time for his son’s early arrival. In collusion with Anthony, a newly-discovered waterfall along the Hunter River was named after his son, Jackson.

1998 saw the arrival of the 35-metre, 28-passenger True North II, the first to be equipped with a helicopter, a Bell 407, funded by Rob Gerrard of Adelaide-based electrical firm, Clipsal. Building the new vessel to regulations that incorporate a helicopter proved a considerable challenge, but that was overcome by expertise from Fremantle shipbuilders, Austal.

Gerrard then chartered the vessel for the duration of the Sydney Olympics in 2000. The overwhelming success of the helicopter operations brought Howson into contact with the vacationsmag.com

vast experience of Rob Colbert of Skyhook Helicopters, who continues to run True North’s helicopter operation to this day.

“What we could do – and still do – really sets us apart from the rest of the field,” said Colbert. “The addition of the helicopter raised the offering to a whole new level and proved an enormous success – all thanks to Craig’s vision.”

True North Adventure Cruises (then known as North Star Cruises) entered a period of exponential growth, sparked by a 45-minute documentary produced by legendary Australian filmmaker, Malcolm Douglas, while aboard.

“The phones just went crazy for a whole week. Mum, Dad, me, the neighbours, their cousins were all stuffing envelopes all day – day after day. When the dust finally settled, we’d sold two years’ worth of cabins and cemented the future of the business. Even now we are still getting word of mouth bookings from that single event!”

Soon after, the late Steve Irwin came aboard and filmed a segment in his own unique style, adding impetus to the groundswell of excitement for True North and The Kimberley.

“Steve’s love for nature just shone through. One night we went out spotlighting and found this big, four-metre croc,” remembers Craig, his eyes still widening at the thought, “and Steve just jumped out of the dingy, crawled right up to this beast, sat down next to it and turned to the camera and said ‘Crikey, isn’t she a beauty!’”

“By crikey, I’ve spent lots of time aboard True North and it’s the best operation in the entire world!” said Irwin in a video message at the time, “What you do Craig, brings greatness to Australian tourism.”

It was time to upgrade yet again and a deal to build the current True North was signed in 2004, again with Austal.

Orchestrated by then Austal sales manager, Mark Stothard, the 50-metre, 36-passenger luxurious superyacht was in the water and on its way to the Kimberley just 12 months later.

“When we went from the 35-metre True North to the 50-metre, we really went from a boat to a ship,” says long-time skipper, Kevin Stone. “We knew then we were entering a whole new level yet again.”

travel facts TRUE NORTH • True North carries 36 passengers in three classes of accommodation across three decks – all with private facilities.

• The vessel has a helicopter and six high-speed dinghies.

• Kimberley itineraries range from seven-13 days and will operate between March and September in 2018.

• Tours include sightseeing, mild hiking, fishing, helicopter flightseeing, safe freshwater swimming, and historical and cultural interpretation.

• In 2018, the line will also offer cruises to West Papua, Papua New Guinea, Sydney, Adelaide and Perth.

FURTHER INFORMATION • True North Adventure Cruises: truenorth.com.au vacationsmag.com

The launch ceremony featured Papua New Guinean dancers, signalling Howson’s intention to take True North Adventure Cruises into the international market. Today, itineraries include not only PNG, but also West Papua with occasional detours to Indonesia and the Solomon Islands.

Even now, plans for future expansion are underway with new itineraries and destinations always being planned.

And what about a new ship? Ah, you’ll just have to wait and see! • Photography by True North Adventure Cruises.

CRAIG’S KIMBERLEY HIT LIST • HORIZONTAL FALLS: You haven’t lived until you’ve done the ‘dingy dash’ through the horizontal falls at Talbot Bay – with us!

• CATCH A BARRA: If you’ve caught a barramundi in the Kimberley, then you have earned your fisho’s gold star. If not, there’s plenty of other fish, too.

• HELICOPTER PICNIC: One of our most memorable excursions is the picnic at Eagle Falls. We fly guests to a remote freshwater billabong for a barbecue and swim.

• MONTGOMERY REEF: One of nature’s marvels.

You just have to see it for yourself – and from our helicopter!

• ROCK ART: The ‘Braddies’ (Bradshaw Rock Art) are tens of thousands of years old. It’s just beautiful and humbling at the same time. We also visit Raft Point for the Wandjina art which is younger, but still beautiful in its own way.

• THE ROWLEY SHOALS: If you’re a scuba diver, snorkeller or fisherman, you have to come. It really is pristine and one of those ‘best-kept secrets’ everyone goes on about.

• THE KING GEORGE FALLS: The Kimberley is full of amazing waterfalls, but King George is particularly spectacular. It’s Australia’s Niagara. It’s best in the early season when there’s heaps of water. Be ready to get wet!

• WILDLIFE: You’ll see a few crocs on our trip, don’t worry about that, but birdwatchers will be delighted, too. We see dugong and whales quite regularly.

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vacationsmag.com

ALASKA

experienced

BY RODERICK EIME

For almost a century, travellers have come to admire Alaska’s spectacular scenery and wildlife.

Holland America has operated there longer than any other cruise line.

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T

he little craft skipped across the water like a lazy stone tossed by a young giant. In the back, a massive fan propelled us along on a cushion of air, while inside the cabin it was remarkably quiet, just an earnest buzz from the little diesel engine driving the whole shebang.

“We can get her up to 35 knots,” Skipper Steve tells me, a trace of his Louisiana drawl still lingering despite years driving boats in Alaska. “Steering takes a bit of practice though.”

Steve’s right foot is not on an accelerator, just a big brake pedal, that slows the little craft just enough to allow him to drift it around corners.

I’m aboard Allen Marine Tours’ tiny six-person hovercraft operating shore excursions for Holland America out of Juneau.

We skim across the water, mudflats and grassland as if it were nothing, all the way to the foot of the massive 56-kilometre long Taku Glacier. We get out for a stroll along the foot of the glacier in among the moraine – an accumulation of rock and gravel debris ‘bulldozed’ along the valley floor. Yes, the massive Taku Glacier is one of the few in the world still advancing.

Such are the options available to cruise guests nowadays in Alaska. Add helicopter flightseeing, floatplane adventures, dog-sledding, salmon fishing and sea kayaking and you have some idea of the scope of activity laid out for you when choosing what to do when in port.

Cruise tourism has been a feature of Alaska for around 100 years, when the early steamships carried freight, ore and passengers along the sheltered waterways of the Inside Passage. Could these pioneers have foreseen such dramatic advancement in both technology and numbers? One man did.

When the first waves of Alaska cruise tour passengers began arriving aboard the Alaska Steamship Company vessels in 1947, Chuck West was there to meet them. The swashbuckling former WWII pilot and tourism visionary quickly built a small empire using chartered passenger/cargo ships, tourist hotels, motor coaches and teams of expert local guides.

Opening image: Holland America Line’s Oosterdam at Hubbard Glacier.

Clockwise from right: A bear reflects; The Eurodam off Discovery Point, Seattle, © Steve Schimmelman.

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Alaska in 1947 was a very different place with a population of barely 100,000. This remote, but resource-rich territory was bought from the Russians in 1867 for two cents per acre and only became a US state (the 49th) in 1959. Until the discovery of oil in 1968, most of Alaska’s economy depended on timber, fishing and the occasional gold rush. Tourism, although popular, was a mere fraction.

It’s no coincidence that even the earliest of cruise brochures feature luxurious ships meandering past massive glaciers thrusting out into the sea. It’s these incredible constructions of nature that continue to draw travellers to gaze in awe at the towering ice faces that seem to emerge miraculously from the frigid depths.

Back in the day, a typical cruise was aboard the Chilcotin, first sailing in May 1947 on 10-day voyages to Skagway via the Gardner Canal with calls at Prince Rupert, Ketchikan, and Juneau.

Fares were up to $375, which included nightly motion pictures and the services of a cruise director and hostess who oversaw recreational programs such as shore excursions on the White Pass & Yukon Route railway from Skagway into the Yukon Territory.

West grew his business, now called Westours, in line with the rapid growth in population of the second newest state, but economic pressure and global forces beyond his control forced him to find investors to keep the company he had built from liquidation. Holland America Line (HAL) bought West’s cruise and tour business in 1971.

HAL proceeded to ramp up operations in Alaska and moved in their newest ship, the Prinsendam (350 passengers), followed by Veendam, Statendam (880 passengers each) and the flagship Rotterdam (1,500 passengers). These high capacity ships quickly changed the nature of cruising and tourism in Alaska.

Fast forward to 2017 and here I am aboard one of HAL’s newer vessels, the 2,100-passenger, Eurodam, sailing the popular seven-day round trip from Seattle. Entering service in 2008, this Signature-class cruise ship is one of six similar vessels operated by HAL in Alaska this year.

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eattle, the capital of the US state of Washington, is fast becoming the choice jumping-off point for cruises departing to Alaska. With many attractions so close to the wharf like the famous, 110-year-old Pike Place Market, aquarium and Great Wheel, the city is gaining a solid reputation with visiting Australians. If you are staying an extra day or two, be sure to visit: • Seattle Art Museum • Space Needle (ride the vintage monorail) • Chihuly Garden and Glass • Museum of Pop Culture (MoPOP) • Boeing Museum and factory tour • The Museum of Flight • Historic Pioneer Square and Underground

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As the cruise line with the most ships, HAL alone brings more visitors to Alaska than any other means. Each visitor spends nearly US$1,000 contributing more than $2.42 billion annually and generating 38,700 jobs. Tourism – and particularly cruising – is now big business in Alaska.

If ever I needed a reminder of the exponential growth in cruise tourism in Alaska, it is when I board Eurodam in the state’s capital, Juneau. Since my last visit in 2012, a new wharf has appeared. Nostalgically christened the Alaska Steamship Dock, it boosts the city’s capacity from five ships to seven and in port today beside us are HAL’s sister ships, Nieuw Amsterdam, Ruby Princess and Celebrity Solstice.

With around 2,000 people from each ship, plus crew, wandering the streets and coming and going from shore excursions, there’s quite a hustle and bustle along the frontier-style shopping strip. Everything from craft beer, faux fur coats and hats, gemstones and jewellery are being hawked in a style not unlike the enterprising merchants who “mined the miners” in the gold rush days, selling them everything from eggs at a dollar apiece to gold-sniffing gophers.

Despite the added attention, Alaska has remained modest, her vast forests of hemlock, cedar and spruce still stand tall, her wildlife continues to flourish, her great glaciers maintain their majesty and her guests always depart awed and humbled. • Photography by Roderick Eime and Holland America Line.

travel facts GETTING THERE Several airlines fly to either San Francisco or Los Angeles where you’ll need to transfer to Vancouver or Seattle for your cruise.

• Qantas: qantas.com.au • Delta: delta.com • United: united.com • Virgin Australia: virginaustralia.com.au CRUISING Holland America offer more options than any other cruise line with popular choices being either the seven-day roundtrip or one way from either Seattle or Vancouver. hollandamerica.com WHEN TO GO The Alaska cruise season runs annually from May to September. Mid-season offers best weather prospects, but more crowds.

WHERE TO STAY Seattle • The Edgewater, Waterfront convenience: edgewaterhotel.com • Fairmont Olympic, Historic splendour: fairmont.com Vancouver • Fairmont Waterfront: fairmont.com FURTHER INFORMATION • Alaska Tourism: travelalaska.com • Seattle Tourism: visitseattle.org –183–

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