Vacations fi
Oct/Nov/Dec 2015 Issue 96
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Da Nang
breathing fire BY Roderick Eime
No longer the poor cousin of Hanoi and Saigon, Da Nang is asserting itself as a thriving metropolis in its own right with entertainment, events and accommodation to rival the rest of Vietnam and Southeast Asia.
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square dancing Clockwise from right: Bikes rest against an old banyan tree in Hoi An while riders shop; Fireworks light up the sky and the Dragon Carp Fountain, the new emblem of Da Nang; The central square in the faux French village, Ba Na Hills Opening image: The massive Dragon Bridge across the Han River spurts fire and water every weekend
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quarter of a century ago, it was the beach, the blood and the bikinis that introduced prime time television audiences to Vietnam’s third largest city, Da Nang, and its idyllic coastal strip. Only then it was known as the fictitious China Beach, a nickname bestowed on the vast expanse of golden beachfront known locally as My Khe. Forbes Magazine dubbed the strip “one of the world’s 10 most luxurious beaches”. My Khe melts seamlessly into Nam O, Xuan Thieu, Thanh Binh, Tien Sa, Son Tra, Bac My An and Non Nuoc with all facing east out to the famous South China Sea in an area taking on a persona much like Australia’s Gold Coast. While the remnants of the vast US Air Base and hospital facilities remain behind a high wall easily visible from the seaside boulevard, it is this burgeoning resort development that now occupies the landscape. All along north-south running Vo Hguyen Giap Street from the ‘armpit’ of the Son Tra Peninsula and almost all the way to Hoi An, 30 kilometres further south, the perfect sands seem to go on forever. Australians arriving at the sprawling former air base and now Da Nang International Airport mostly only glimpse these sumptuous resorts from the window of their speeding taxi or minibus as they are hurried post haste to the UNESCO-listed ancient city of Hoi An. But local tourism authorities are keen as mustard to keep international visitors lingering in their growing dynamic metropolis. The catalogue of resorts reads like a ‘Who’s Who’ of the premium hotel industry with absolute beachfront properties stretching as far as the eye can see. Not all share the same level of success unfortunately, as every kilometre or so a skeletal concrete structure signals a stalled development. Such is the pace of progress here in Da Nang that the local authorities have decreed that if a developer cannot complete a project within a specified timeframe (often one year), the
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right to use the state-owned land and any structures are forfeited and returned to the people.
Riverside Fun Adjacent the CBD and along both sides of Han River, further developments signal Da Nang’s arrival as a 21st Century business and leisure powerhouse. Every night the bright lights flicker and cascade along the banks, illuminating the spectacular 666m Dragon Bridge, which delights locals and visitors by belching fire and water every weekend at 9pm. In the evenings, especially on the weekends, families are out in force enjoying the many riverside amusements and stalls including the Helio Center, a large complex chock full of fun including a bowling alley, a synthetic ice rink and too many electronic games to count. Handy for keeping squealing tweenies and teenagers occupied for hours. Out on the river, cruise boats chug up and down taking in the vibrant colours of the illuminated attractions like the giant Sun Wheel, Da Nang’s answer to the London Eye or the Singapore Flyer. Dining options are bewildering too, but you can count quality international and local cuisine with great views at Chef Brandon Winkeler’s Waterfront Restaurant and Bar.
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IT’S A LOT BETTER AT NOVOTEL DANANG As one of Danang’s modern iconic landmarks, Novotel Danang Premier Han River is ideally located in the city centre overlooking Han River. Only 10 minutes drive from the airport and 5 minutes to the beach, the hotel offers exceptional panoramic views of beautifully-illuminated bridges, the surrounding mountains and endless beaches.
bowled over Clockwise from above: Miniature ornamental food bowls; Hoi Anh Dao restaurant in Hoi An
Mountains of Marble Easily seen from the beachside Vo Hguyen Giap Street are a cluster of five monolithic outcrops jutting out of the plain. Called Marble Mountains, which is a bit of a stretch, the massive natural formations certainly are imposing. You could easily imagine Viet Cong spies atop the peaks observing US air movements at the nearby base during the closing stages of what we call the The Vietnam War. Once a solid climb, an elevator has been installed in the largest one, Thuy Son, making the upward excursion simple. From there you can enjoy the view and check out the ancient Buddhist relics and caves before either taking the lift back down or descending the stairs. You’ll also note a great many marble carving workshops in the neighbourhood and, like me, you’ll be drawn to wonder how long these ‘mountains’ will last at the rate the marble is being quarried. But apparently the stone is now coming in from China to preserve the integrity of the mountains. Thank goodness.
Fantastic Ba Na Hills Back in the mid-19th century when France held sway over Da Nang and most of Indochina, the colonial rulers headed for the hills to escape the oppressive heat on the plain. In 1919, the equivalent of a hilltop resort was established 38 kilometres southwest of Da Nang, while very little remains of the original French structures, it has been rebuilt in spectacular fashion by Vietnam’s own oligarch, Russian-educated Le Viet Lam. To access the vast mountaintop complex, one must first drive out on a near-empty six-lane freeway, built expressly for the purpose. One could well imagine environmental impact statements being rushed through the planning committee late on a Friday afternoon as the wide highway cuts a swathe through wetlands and forests to arrive at the ground station for the Guinness World Record-holding, six kilometre cable car –128–
system that has replaced the old winding track to the near1500m summit. Arrival at the summit is another experience again. Opened in 2015, the entire complex is built to resemble a French medieval village, complete with walled citadel, castle, 59-room three-star hotel, 484-room four-star hotel, 300-delegate conference centre, cathedral, amusement park, seven restaurants, tramway and replica French gardens. In deference to the Buddhist Vietnamese, a ‘spiritual’ shrine and garden is also part of the complex. Staggering, is an understatement. Catering to well-heeled local families, international visitors and the wedding and conference market, there are also the occasional ‘wild card’ entertainment shows put on in Du Dome Square. I say ‘wild card’ because these mixed burlesque/ cartoon/mythology/disco shows seem to be part mardi gras, part Disney-esque parade. Bewildering, goes only some way to describing the open-air floor show. If you choose to dine on the mountain, a better bet would be one of the ‘à la carte’ restaurants or even the Kavkaz ‘street’ BBQ rather than the food hall we chose.
The Big Bang Theory Thrusting Da Nang onto the international stage is the biennial Da Nang International Fireworks Competition (DIFC) won this year by Australians Howard & Sons against stiff competition from four other teams from the US, South Africa, Poland and the host Vietnam. To be held next in 2017, the entire city is taken over by this lavish pyrotechnic extravaganza. Grandstands are installed along the Han River for the two nights of performances where tonnes of colourful computer-controlled explosives are detonated in choreographed splendour. The $2.5 million event is funded primarily by business sponsorships and is accompanied by street parades, decorations and mini-festivals. vacationsmag.com
We are proud to announce the opening of 120 new rooms. Featuring a new comfy bed, free Wi-Fi, 24-hour room service and contemporary design, Novotel Danang offers our guests the comfort of a spacious and modern accommodation.
The 37-storey hotel offers international all-day dining, a full-service spa, and an outdoor swimming pool. Additionally, a nightclub, 2 bars/lounges, souvenir outlet and a fitness center are on-site. At Novotel, guests are welcomed to discover innovative menus and wine lists that are recently created by our talented chefs. From breakfast to dinner, in the comfort of The Square restaurant or by the pool, food and drinks are served in settings with amazing views.
Novotel Danang Premier Han River 36 Bach Dang Street Hai Chau district Danang City Phone: +84 511 3929999 Email: H8287@accor.com
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Hotel accommodation is stretched to the limit as the April event gobbles up every one of the 475 hotels and resorts’ 16,000 rooms. Intending visitors are advised to book early and pay a deposit to avoid disappointment.
A BRIDGE NOT FAR Above: The 400-year old Japanese Bridge in Hoi An
a taste oF Hoi an This familiar destination for many Aussie Asiaphiles is that place most likely calling out to us from the glossy brochures or Lonely Planet guidebooks, namely the UNESCO World Heritage-listed ancient city of Hoi An. A glaring contrast from the brash pace and bright lights of Da Nang, Hoi An was inscribed by UNESCO in 1999 as a well-preserved example of a Southeast Asian trading port of the 15th to 19th centuries. As a visitor, Hoi An is a delightful city to explore. Flat and easily navigable on bicycle, it is quieter and less frantic than many Vietnamese towns and cities. The narrow streets of the old town are full of shops, eateries and galleries that make a relaxed stroll or casual cycle the perfect way to get around. The popular riverfront precinct is the place to go for coffee, ice cream, a beer or food of all types. There are four museums covering history, culture, folklore and crafts like ceramics. Shoppers will delight in the vintage leatherwork and tailoring as well as art and crafts. A highlight of any visit to Hoi An should be to see the iconic, 400-year-old Japanese Bridge that has become the architectural symbol of the city. For a fun activity, visit Red Bridge Cooking School and restaurant a short distance from the main town and situated along a quiet stretch of wetlands. Not only will you learn some of the art of Vietnamese cooking, but you’ll get a decent feed and a river cruise. • Photography by Roderick Eime/travography.com and Nguyen Huan/Da Nang Tourism
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travel facts GETTING THERE Vietnam Airlines, VietJetAir, Jetstar and SilkAir service Da Nang International Airport with routes via Ho Chi Minh City and Singapore. • Vietnam Airlines: vietnamairlines.com • Jetstar: jetstar.com Australians require a visa to enter Vietnam which can be obtained either via the embassy or an accredited agent such as visaonlinevietnam.com WHERE TO STAY • Naman Retreat; +84-511/3959-888; namanretreat.com • Novotel Da Nang Premier Han River; +84-511/392-9999; novotel-danang-premier.com • InterContinental Da Nang Sun Peninsula Resort; +84-511/393-8888; danang.intercontinental.com • Furama Resort Danang; +84-511/3847-888; furamavietnam.com WHERE TO EAT • Waterfront Restaurant & Bar; 150-152 Bach Dang, Da Nang. waterfrontdanang.com FURTHER INFORMATION • Tourism Da Nang: tourism.danang.vn • Ba Na Hills: banahills.com.vn/en • Da Nang Fireworks Competition: difcdanang.com • Red Bridge Cooking School: visithoian.com/redbridge
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cruise news
Suite sailing
COMPILED BY HELEN HAYES
Royal Caribbean International has unveiled a brand new range of Royal Suite Class luxury services onboard Royal Caribbean’s six Oasis and Quantum Class ships including the 5,000 passenger, Ovation of the Seas, the largest and most technologically-advanced megaliner which will call Australia home when it sets sail from Sydney’s iconic harbour from December 2016. The Royal Suite Class luxury service will include complimentary VOOM – the fastest internet at sea; complimentary speciality dining; an ultimate beverage package, preferred seating at select onboard venues and upgraded stateroom amenities, exclusive access to the California-chic Coastal Kitchen restaurant and prerequisite butler service; trained and certified by the British Butler Institute. And adding to the elegant experience at sea are the Hermès, Ferragamo and L’OCCITANE bath products and luxury pillow-top mattresses. royalcaribbean.com
Sea Cloud Cruises celebrates
In April 2016 Sea Cloud Cruises will celebrate the 85th birthday of their legendary windjammer Sea Cloud. Sailing from Lisbon, Portugal alongside its sister ship, Sea Cloud II, guests will cruise the waters of the Iberian coast amid timeless luxury and scenic splendour. After sailing through the Straits of Gibraltar and anchoring in the ancient port city of Cádiz, both ships will sail to Malaga where Sea Cloud passengers will join in the anniversary celebrations aboard Sea Cloud II. Departing Valencia, Sea Cloud will set course for the enchanting Catalonian capital, Barcelona as the Sea Cloud II charters the Balearic Islands. Adding to the line-up of the legendary ship’s celebratory events will be a cocktail reception and concert hosted in one of Barcelona’s iconic buildings designed by master architect, Antonio Gaudí. seacloud.com/en
Voyages of Discovery
The siren-call of the Mediterranean is timeless as with the experiences Cruise Traveller is offering on their five-week, :Enchanting Mediterranean Grand Voyage” cruise which will depart from the French port of Marseilles on the French Riviera in September, 2016. The 540-passenger ship, MT Voyager will dock in some of the region’s most exotic ports including Venice, Istanbul, Nice and Dubrovnik as well as Corfu in the enchanting Greek Islands. Enjoying elegant amenities and ocean view cabins, the 37-day itinerary also includes airport transfers in Marseilles and Athens, complimentary flights to Athens from key Australian cities and maiden visits to Calvi in Corsica and Rijeka on the Adriatic coast. After exploring the ancient sea ports, guests can sit back and enjoy talks by prominent explorers, naturalists and diplomats. cruisetraveller.com.au –232–
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Sanctuary in the Golden Land
An exotic, seven-night cruise along the iconic Ayeryarwady River – better known as the ‘Road to Mandalay’ – is at the forefront of Sanctuary Retreat’s new “Cruise in the Golden Land” itinerary aboard the newly-launched Sanctuary Ananda. Considered to be a floating palace, the vessel combines authentic Burmese aesthetics with contemporary luxuries that include an on-board spa, lounge/cocktail bar, a dining room and library. Each of the 21 guest suites on three decks feature private balconies – the Owner’s Suite comes with its own sundeck and plunge pool. Sailing from the waters that begin in the snow-fed Himalayas near the Chinese border to the Andaman Sea, guests are treated to some of the most unique experiences, sites and cultural exchanges Myanmar has to offer on the 1400-kilometre voyage; jungle-clad riverbanks, dramatic gorges, temple-strewn plains, lush rice paddies and snapshots of rural life. Led by expert guides with the highest staff-to-guest ratio of any operator on the river, there are six itineraries and 32 departures from the beginning of September through to mid-April, 2016. sanctuaryretreats.com
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Star Clippers
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There’s cruising – and there is sailing. Aboard Star Clippers, here is your chance to experience something of life aboard a genuine tall ship, yet still enjoy many of the comforts of modern cruise ships. Star Clippers currently have three vessels in the fleet, the 170-passenger twins Star Clipper and Star Flyer, and the largest sailing ship in the world, the five-masted Royal Clipper. The line has just announced plans to build a larger 300-passenger ship, due for delivery in 2017. Aboard Star Clipper and Star Flyer, the 85 cabins are arranged across four decks in six categories and are similar in size, and amenities, with yacht-like décor and comfort. The eight Category 1 cabins open onto the deck, but most vary only slightly in size and layout with the largest being 12sqm. The biggest distinguishing feature between categories is location on the ship. The higher the cabin category, the higher or more central they might be located on board. Star Clippers ships currently operate in the Mediterranean and Caribbean with plans to return Star Clipper to her old sailing ground of Phuket late in 2016 for five months each year. cruiseexpress.com.au
Dream Yacht Charters,
French Polynesia By Helen Hayes Sailing on a luxury yacht is a wonderful way to explore the eye-blinkingly beautiful lagoons of Bora Bora. We are on board a 60’ catamaran through Dream Yacht Charters, with an obliging skipper and a talented hostess/chef. We are in one cabin, with two other couples on board ensuring fun conversations and long, leisurely sundowners on the back deck. But the main attraction is the water, and we are constantly swimming in it; diving off the boat in the many different anchorages around Bora Bora’s perky peaks. We topple off the dinghy at the main snorkel sites; swimming with about 40 black-tip reef sharks at one location and getting touchy-feely with velvety stingrays at another. We snorkel in coral gardens, losing count of the numbers of different fish that flick past in a riot of colour. We see eagle rays with their stealth-like speed and manta rays with their big black wings cutting a dark swathe through the water. Our yacht becomes home, with our aquatic activities punctuated with delicious meals, fine wines and cool beers. When underway, we laze in our favourite spots around the boat, intoxicated by the unbelievable range of blues in the sea, and the lushness of the green on the islands. It really is almost too good to be true. dreamyachtcharters.com
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