Friday, April 3, 2020 « the western weekender
TRAVEL
COSTA RICA Words Roderick Eime Photo Roderick Eime More Info au.expeditions.com
After the pandemic passes, this trip of beauty and discovery is a must-do A glorious tropical morning among ‘pinch me’ scenery was just the start as we arrive on a picnic- ready beach at Playa Blanca on Costa Rica’s remote Osa Peninsula. We split into groups, each heading to their chosen excursion where we visit families who own and operate subsistence- level farms, each with their own specialities. In between, there’s time for a sumptuous BBQ lunch under a huge fig tree that plays host to a trio of Scarlet Macaws. The three brilliant parrots sit high and aloof cavorting and preening among the branches, looking down on the curious, clumsy mammals with an air of comic disdain. My first exploration is to the sugar cane farm of Johnny Rodriguez, whose family has been cultivating and harvesting the sweet, bamboo- like product for some 50 years. His 95- year- old father- in- law, Carmine, still sprightly, is busy helping out too. Johnny is proud as punch with his 100- year- old ‘trapiche’, set up to crush the long juicy stems while his horse hauls the heavy beam attached to the old grinder. While the family farms several root and fruit crops, the sugar cane is the long- standing tradition. Here the 100 per cent organic product is processed into molasses plugs called ‘tapa de dulce’ through a boiling and purification process with their own wood-fired stove
“A GLORIOUS, TROPICAL MORNING WAS JUST THE START” and hand- made mahogany moulds. We see the whole process from whoa- to- go, each stage eliciting a satisfying smile from Johnny. His wife Naomi meanwhile is busy mixing up a sweet concoction of molasses, nuts, coconut and milk powder while the children look on in delight.
After lunch and a further mocking from the three macaws, we are treated to a short cultural display from young schoolchildren in traditional costume before setting off for our second instalment. Next, I’m heading to the Finca Kobo cocoa farm for reasons that don’t need explaining but am delighted to discover far more than the humble chocolate beans on offer. Our guide, Juan-Luis, delights in walking us through a tiny section of his 50ha farm that grows some 85 different varieties of fruits, spices, herbs and vegetables. And not your average greengrocer selection either. We ogle such exotic crops as custard apple, noni, cinnamon, turmeric, jackfruit, star apple and several varieties of citrus and guava. Next, a ripe jackfruit the size of a rugby ball is plucked from a grateful branch. With the outer texture of a sun- ripened iguana, the husk is split open to reveal innards that could come from a Ridley Scott movie. Slimy, glutinous tentacles conceal marble- sized seeds and despite
its alien, anemone-like appearance, is so delicious, our greedy hands clutch at the flesh like delinquent vultures. We do eventually get to the cocoa process and learn the dirty secrets of the big confectionery companies who strip out the best stuff (like the pure cocoa butter) and leave us with a mere hint of sugar- inundated chocolate wrapped in shiny paper and marketing hype. All jokes aside, the family- owned, community attractions here on the Osa Peninsula are an enlightening example of how tourism can resist the temptation to become a mass- market commodity and maintain sustainable, eco-friendly operations that are a joy to experience. This is just another day aboard a Lindblad Expeditions vessel, jam-packed with activity. Lindblad’s team of lecturers, naturalists, photo instructors, wellness practitioners and destination specialists ensure an immersive experience that is guaranteed to leave guests with a whole new view on our beautiful and delicate planet.
No ‘C’ word will stop us from launching – after all, we practice safe brewing! Yes, the rumours are true – from 2 April enjoy FREE local delivery of our delectable house blends and single origins! Phone 8379 8200 365 High St, Penrith lovebeans.com.au
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The long-awaited Love Beans Espresso Bar & Coffee Gallery is opening, offering takeaway as well as delivery. There’s truly nothing like it . . . cappuccino, latte, flat white, pour over coffee – the choice is yours. And for those in self-isolation, visit our online store for home-brew goodies to get you through. All you need is love . . . beans.