Saint Laurent Paris by Céline

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“ designer who is not also a couturier, who hasn’t learned the most refined mysteries of physically creating his models, is like a sculptor who gives his drawings to another man, an artisan, to accomplish.” -Yves Saint Laurent

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rand Designer // History // Tradition // Re-Brand.

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ves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent

Born: 01-08-1936

Died: 01-06-2008

Birth Place: Oran, Algeria

Yves Saint Laurent was an Algerian

designing skills. “He then launched

designer born on August 1st, 1936, in

his own fashion labels, where his

Oran. At 18 years of age he moved to

adaptations of tuxedos for women

Paris, where his graduating collection

garnered him fame. He was the

at ‘Chambre Syndicale de la Couture’

first living designer to receive a solo

increased his exposure. He was

exhibition in New York’s Metropolitan

scouted and landed a position with the

Museum of Art in 1983. The Designer

fashion house Christian Dior where

died in Paris on June 1, 2008 from

he obtained acclaim for his dress

brain cancer.” (Bio.com).

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ves Saint Laurent, the elegant and most prominent French

fashion designer has for over 40 years brought uniqueness and opulence to its gowns and his ready-to-wear collection. Recognised for his empowering yet feminine designs for women. He commercialised and endorsed a new look for women, pantsuits, trench coats, safari printed jackets and even unisex perfume. â&#x20AC;&#x153;These ground breaking styles have become iconic, cultural and artistic references and the couturier Yves Saint Laurent, secured a reputation as one of the twentieth centuryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s foremost designers.â&#x20AC;? (Kering.com). Never failing to make an appearance by those striking and world-renowned stars that wore his creations on the most glamorous red carpet events. Even today, Saint Laurent Paris trademark continues to have an imperative influence on fashion industry, excelling at Parisian elegance with a modern twist. Envision exquisitely tailored tuxedo jackets, revamped deluxe t-shirts, accompanied by his statement accessory pieces, the YSL bags.

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B R A N D H I S T O R Y * Postmodernity accepted multiple opinions and emphasized identity politics. The tux or suit was no longer tied to one gender, class, form or environment, signifying that it had become highly subjective what to wear in different circumstances.

”L’Oréal chief executive Jean-Paul Agon commented to WWD, ‘This proposed agreement represents a

great opportunity for L’Oréal and its luxury products division. Yves Saint Laurent is a mythical French luxury brand. It is admired the world over and is particularly complementary with our current brands. ‘ Robert Polet, CEO of the Gucci Group added, ‘This agreement would be key for Yves Saint Laurent. The strength and expertise of L’Oréal would put the further development of the brand on a faster track.” (MarieClaire.com)

The couturier fashion house was founded by Yves Saint Laurent himself and his partner Pierre Bergé.

/ * He became the first to popularize ready-to-wear in an attempt to democratize fashion. Charles de Ritz acquired 80% of the house of Yves Saint Laurent.

// The Rive Gauche boutiques for women were established.

The Rive Gauche boutiques for men were established.

Launch of the YSL cosmetic The advertising line. Ritz campaign launched an for the first entire line of YSL men’s skincare and fragrance makeup under shocked critics, Launch of the the Yves Saint which featured Opium perfume. Laurent Beaute Yves himself brand. posing nude.

The brand continued to expand with fragrances for both men and women.

He became the first living fashion designer to be given a solo exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

1961 1963 1966 1970 1971 1977 1978 1980 1983

1993 1996 1998 1999 2002 2004 2008 2012 2013 The Saint Laurent fashion house was sold to the pharmaceuticals company, Sanofi, for approximately $600,000,000.

Hedi Slimane as the RTW director for the men’s collection.

/ YSL held a 300-model fashion extravaganza at the final match of the 1998 World Cup football tournament in the Stade de France.

Yves was awarded a ‘Lifetime Achievement’ award from The Council of Fashion Designers of America.

Yves Saint Laurent showed his last YSL couture collection. (retired)

// Alber Elbaz took over the read-to-wear division for women’s clothing.

Stefano Pilati became the new YSL Creative Director.

/ Yves Saint Laurent passed away. // ** L’Oréal bought out the beauty division of Yves Saint Laurent from the Gucci group, for $1.68 billion. /// Stefano Pilati released the Edition capsule collections in honour of the YSL legacy.

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Hedi Slimane The PPR new Creative holding Director. company (in control of SLP) changed its name to Kering.

/ Yves Saint Laurent’s legacy as a king of fashion designers, who created a masterpiece of a brand, keeps growing.

// Hedi Slimane Introduces the 2014

unparalleled quality and design” (Kering Report, 2013).

Version of Yves Saint Laurent’s Signature ‘le smoking’ Look. And now, with so much history, Hedi Silmane, current creative director of the French fashion house celebrates this heritage, with the creation of an atelier dedicated to tailoring at the Saint Laurent studios for the creation of tuxedo lines for both the men’s and women’s ready-to-wear, as well the permanent collections.

The company aims to continue growth for its global retail presence through opening new stores in emerging markets with the new store concept. Additionally they are concentrating on developing their current stores in existing markets by redesigning the new store concept. Thus the retail presence is undergoing a makeover to cohere through the re-branding of Saint Laurent Paris with the objective to continue growth into new markets.

/// “Saint Laurent Paris aim to

create and market highly desirable products through innovation and

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R e-brand

012, was the year when Hedi Slimane returned as the new Creative Director of Saint Laurent, which in turn marked a new direction for the brand. Re-naming the ready-to-wear and accessories from YSL to SLP, Saint Laurent Paris. He not only changed the logo, but he also moved the design studio from Paris to Los Angeles and started to refurbish the stores (The Guardian). Hedi Slimane, will rename the label Saint Laurent Paris. “The change celebrates our legacy and heritage, while boldly marking our ambition for the future,” Saint Laurent Paris CEO Paul Deneve said in a statement. “It will allow us to return to the fundamentals of YSL and revive the spirit and the intentions that reigned over the creation of ‘Saint Laurent Rive Gauche’ in 1966: principles of youth, freedom and modernity.” (IBS.com).

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limane explains that the name change is actually a revival of an interesting piece of fashion history. In 1966 (the same year that the house came out with the famed Le Smoking suit), YSL began producing ready-to-wear using the name Saint Laurent Rive Gauche as part of a push to democratize fashion. “It is interesting to see how much reaction this retro branding has created. Clearly, this period of the history of the house was not well-known, which I trust was a surprise for Pierre Bergé [Saint Laurent’s long-term partner]. I went back to 1966 – just before the events of 1968 [when 11 million workers revolted against the conservative politics of then-President Charles de Gaulle - the biggest general strike in history], but the awakening of youth was in the air, and Yves Saint Laurent wanted to dissociate himself from the clientele of haute couture and embrace this new generation.” (Styleite.com).

Both the men and womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collections have been altered, alongside the leather goods and the shoes in order to reposition the brand for the new and vigorous target market.

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he new Saint

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Laurent Paris brand DNA.

The simplistic yet modern web design is another element that mirrors Saint Laurentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new brand identity.

n stores, LED (Light Emitting Diode) lighting will be used to optimize energy consumption in the new concept designed by Hedi Slimane. In addition, a specific project will be jointly carried out by the sustainability teams at Saint Laurent and Kering regarding the optimization of HVAC (Heating, Ventilation and Air-Conditioning) use. (Kering.com) Some key best practices in sustainability will be implemented in the new stores which are planned to be opened by the brand over the next 2 years. Finally, designing a new store concept implies choices for furniture & equipment such as stationeries and uniforms. Saint Laurent is currently performing a worldwide analysis on how to give a second life to the boutique elements that would otherwise become redundant. (Kering.com) Even through Saint Laurent Paris is part of the Kering group and has no longer control over the cosmetic sub-brand YSL, the trademark YSL will be kept as part of the heritage of the brand. However, the re-branding has allowed for inconsistent elements to take place, such as the remaining YSL logo that is still used for bags and beauty products and digital platforms such as social media.

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ollections RTW Fashion Show // Womenswear // Menswear // Trend // Iconic Pieces.

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year collection RTW Fashion Show // Womenswear.

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SS // “

FW // “

natural and honest chic, an aesthetic paradigm of minimalism” Stefano Pilati.

t’s about protection, And partly, an homage to YSL and the rigorous tailleur.” Stefano Pilati.

2010 -25-

// // SSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;10 Details, Trends, Colour story.

// // FWâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;10 Details, Trends, Colour story.

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SS //

tefano Pilati revisited key YSL codes: Le Smoking, bowed blouses, blasts of color & long forties lines.

FW // “

he collection was inspired by YSL’s Opium Era, featuring vintage, boyish silhouettes” Stefano Pilati.

2011 -29-

// // SSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 Details, Trends, Prints, Textures.

// // FWâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; 11 Details, Trends, Prints, Textures.

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SS //

FW //

elle De Jour. The haute bourgeois collection was designed to emphasize fetishistic extremes.

SLâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dark side. An end to his era. Stefano Pilati.

2012 -33-

// // SSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 Details, Trends, Colour story.

// // FWâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; 12 Details, Trends, Prints, Textures.

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SS //

limane’s womenswear debut was dictated by his L.A. sojourn. Hedi Slimane.

FW // “

alifornia grunge was the vision for Hedi Slimane’s second women’s collection for Saint Laurent.”

2013 -37-

// // SSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 Details, Trends, Colour story.

// // FWâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; 13 Details, Trends, Prints, Patterns.

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SS //

etailed capsule of the Japanese rocker chick’s wardrobe; punky eleganza. Hedi Slimane

FW // “

utfits distilled the mid-sixties moment when pop was purest.”

2014 -41-

// // SSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 Details, Trends, Patterns, Prints.

// // FWâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; 14 Details, Trends, Prints, Patterns.

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SS // “

his collection straddled Slimane’s worlds: L.A. groupies in Paris couture.”

FW // “

n homage to the young musicians of Paris.”

2015 -45-

// // SSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;15 Details, Trends, Colour story.

// // FWâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; 15 Details, Trends, Colour story.

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year collection RTW Fashion Show // Menswear.

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SS // FW //

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SS // FW //

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SS // FW //

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only a LOOKBOOK was released. N/A

SS // FW //

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SS // FW //

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SS // FW //

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conic Products Le Smoking // Vintage // Black // Ballet Russe.

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SMOKING The French luxury house is renowned for its contemporary and iconic pieces. Such items are the tuxedo jackets for women, or even the pantsuit look that was created in 1966. The Style icon, Bianca Jagger was one woman that embodied this new look in 1972. The tuxedo suit, also known as “Le Smoking” (French; black tie) suit is a look that has been replicated worldwide. Its quintessence was a combination of a seductive style, showcasing masculineyet-sexy woman. Yves Saint Laurent’s first creation of ‘Le Smoking’ was composed of velvet or wool and was fundamentally a reinterpretation of the menswear black-tie ensemble. Yves was heavily influenced by modern art and created some memorable collections because of it. He later showed this new tuxedo as part of the Pop Art collection that he created for autumn/winter 1966. Helmut Newton, a photographer instigated

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the design as iconic with an image that was published in 1975, in the French Vogue. The pure elegance merged with simplicity is still the epitome of chicness today. “For a woman, Le Smoking is an indispensable garment with which she finds herself continually in fashion, because it is about style, not fashion. Fashions come and go, but style is forever.” Yves Saint Laurent. The ‘Le smoking’ was more of an indication of a shift in power then fashion. “It is a well-known fact that Chanel gave women their freedom; years later Saint Laurent brought them power.” Pierre Bergé, It was a controversial statement of femininity – a sexuality that did not rely on ruffles or exposed skin, but instead smouldered beneath the sharp contours of a perfectly cut jacket and trouser. Another Mag.

VINTAGE Yves Saint Laurent was also known for using vintage fashions to influence his current designs and fashion styles. In 1971, he launched his 1940’s stimulated collection.

The collection entailed out of knee length skirts, square shoulder padding, platform shoes and extravagant make up. The retro look was intended for those young women that did not experience the 1940’s fashion cultivation but that were drawn in due to the draped and pleated dresses. An exhibition surrounding this was launched on March 19th by the Foundation Pierre Bergé in Paris. Yves Saint Laurent: La Collection du Scandale

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OTHERS Some of his other innovations include the reefer jacket (1962), sheer blouses which were showcased in 1966 to his statement jumpsuits (1968). (Vogue.com).

BLACK

A basic black dress becomes something unique and special in the hands of Saint Laurent. Details and fabrics such as sheer fabrics or even vintage-sequenced motives are what transformed the garments to a more sexy and mysterious look.

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B A L L E T R U S S E 1976 - YSL couture dress

It was at this time that Yves Saint Laurent, haute couture’s preeminent practitioner, threw caution to the prevailing winds with a collection of unrivaled fantasy and luxury. He called it his “Russian Collection,” but his designs were Slavic only in their Oriental excess and opulence. Inspired by the Bakst costumes of the Ballets Russes, each ensemble appeared to be a repudiation of the informal, pareddown, and functional looks of the street. By employing all the techniques of the petites mains—those workshops of embroiderers, passementerie makers, lace weavers, feather workers, and jewelry makers—Saint Laurent revived the taste for elegant excess. Compared to the Art Deco spareness of the 1930s-revival crepe and jersey evening columns popular during the period, the Russian ball gowns were a sensory explosion of color, ornament, scale, and even sound, for each skirt was supported by a coordinated taffeta petticoat that announced the approach of its wearer with a dry rustle. (metmuseum.org)

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romotion Endorsers Old // Endorsers New // Print media // Events // Social Media EU // Social Media Asia.

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ndorsement

ADVERTISEMENTS Jessica Chastain Actress. (Image on the right side).

Emily Blunt Actress.

Olivier Martinez Actor.

(When the brand was still Yves Saint Laurent. The chosen endorsers are elegant, refined and sophisticated. Even the styling of the campaigns were extremely chic, timeless and feminine.)

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ndorsement

ADVERTISEMENTS Saskia de Brauw Model.

Lindsay Lohan Actress.

Courtney Love Musician.

Marilyn Manson Musician.

Christopher Owens Musician.

Edie Campbell Model.

Beck -

Musician.

(For the new brand; Saint Laurent Paris. The ambassadors chosen are rebellious, quirky, some androgenous and overall creaes a more mysterious and cool vibe. It is noticeable that it is targetting a less mature market).

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P U B LIC IT Y T H R OU G H PRINT M EDIA Vogue Paris / Feb. / Saint Laurent Cover. Vogue Germany / Feb. / Saint Laurent Cover. NumĂŠro / Feb. / Saint Laurent Cover. Uomo Vogue / Nov. / G-Dragon in SL. Dazed and Confused / Elle France

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PUBLICITY THROUGH ENDORSERS

Felicity Jones

Margot Robbie

Dakota Johnson

Angelina Jolie

Ellen Degeneres

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Jared Leto

PUBLICITY THROUGH EVENTS

LOS ANGELES SAINT LAURENT PRIVATE SESSIONS THE GRAMMY’S 02 06 2015

“Saint Laurent’s Hedi Slimane throws an intimate and exclusive rock n roll shindig pre-Grammys in Los Angeles. A top secret private party hosted by Hedi Slimane and Stephen Gan had some of the biggest names in music – the likes of Sky Ferreira, Daft Punk, Arctic Monkeys, The Black Keys, Charlie XCX and Warpaint to be exact. The rock and roll was enjoyed by the most fashionable (and fabulous) of guests, with a gang of young Hollywood stars; Jack Kilmer, Juno Temple, Jeremy Irvine, Saoirse Ronan and Wonderland favourites The Garden also in attendance. Through a hidden entrance you find the treasure trove of cool, the event was social media free and the only photographs of the night were taken by Slimane himself, black and white candid photography captured the young grunge vibes to perfection. The alternate universe to the glitz and glamour of the Grammys, Slimane’s party was the antidote to sickly sweet applause with a genuine rock n roll underground experience.” (wonderlandmagazine.com)

Hidden Cool Party Experience Intimate Exclusive Rock’n’Roll Private Underground

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Social Media

No APPS // No Instagram account

From Saint Laurent’s facebook page, we can tell that they still use ‘Yves Saint Laurent’ to re-direct their fan base and clientelle. They have over 2.2 million people liking their page. With an approximation of 200 likes per post.

2.65 million followers 142 following 358 tweets

19.842 subscriptions 1st video: SS’13 15 videos uploaded

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Social Media Chinese platforms use YSL but have SLP content.

WeChat - note that they still use ‘Yves Saint Laurent’ in their description.

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onsumer Target Market // Positioning // Brand Pyramid // Price Architecture // Product Comparison.

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aint-Laurent woman

Dynamic

Modern

Crude

Punk

SLP is positioned in the luxury market to target global audiences. In recent years, during the revamping of the brand, the Saint Laurent woman has transformed. During the early years their target consumer was that graceful, mature, intelligent and affluent woman (35+). And represented the essence of the French, chic, decadent, bourgeois woman. Now, due to Hedi Slimaneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s repositioning of the brand, this demographic has shifted to a more youthful audience. Targeting the market sector of 15-35 year girls/women. In the world there are currently 1.826 million billionaires whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s children have a large disposable income. The new 16 year olds now have 2000 euro per month to spend. They are young, enjoy the quick rock style and have no emotional relationship to the brand. The brand plays monopoly on the rebellious stereotype of its target market, which can be found universally. Buying for them has become a habit and not a passion. The luxury group Kering, is searching out younger clients, born too late to remember the many innovations of this house. There is too much information available on the internet, that the new market no longer cares about what the brand was or used to be but more of what they represent now. The younger generation and their definition of what constitutes luxury is notably different to that of their parents. However, there will still remain the middle-aged (35 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 50 year old woman), long-term loyal customers who were the key consumer group previously. They will invest in the smaller items such as bags or accessories as it depicts the cool vibe of the brand, and relates back to the heritage, without stepping out of their comfort zone and being ridiculed. It mainly targets those fashion forward, recalcitrant consumers with a middle-to-large disposable income, who want to purchase a cool item for instant gratification. They will not display the same level of brandloyalty as the previous, more mature market but will continue to wear SLP to make a statement.

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ositioning and consumer demographics & Segmentation

Per Saint Laurent consumer, here is a segmentation analysis (Posner, 2011) to determine characteristics of Saint Laurent consumer, with the key feature of â&#x20AC;&#x153;segmentation, targeting and positioningâ&#x20AC;? marketing strategy (Posner, 2011). As a world well-known luxury brand Saint Laurent customers are all over the world, it is necessary to understand their target group needs and preferences. Fast fashion within a high-end luxury brand.

Demographics

Psychographics

Geographic

Usage & Benefit

- Young women & men; - Aged 15-35 - Generation born between 1978-2000 - Well educated throughout childhood, who are from good families. - Multicultural (in terms of fashion brand knowledge & globalised point of views). - Upper class income, young kids who come from respectable families, fashion students. - HEIDIâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s (highly educated independent individuals). - Europe: Azerbaijan, France, Germany, Italy, Monaco, Poland, Russia, Spain, Turkey, Ukraine & United Kingdom - North America: United States (Florida, NewYork, California, Texas, Hawaii, Las Vegas, Los Angeles & Jersey) - Asia: China, Hongkong, Macau, Japan, Taiwan, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, South Korea & Thailand. - Africa & Middle East: Casablanca, Saudia Arabia, United Arab Emirates, Lebanon & Morocco.

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- Social lifestyle, always outgoing - Strong career passions (due to the fashion industry) - Confidence, self-assured personality - Fashion savvy - Enjoy clubbing - Passions in heavy rock music, discoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, travelling and cultural explorations. - Desire freedom and inspiration - Niche class who want to show their own personality - Price senseless - Desire highly fashion image - Love designer and luxury brands to represent self-made social image & their status - Loyal branding consumer - Also purchases Givenchy, Alexander Wang etc.

rand Pyramid:

Is a type of brand architecture created to differentiate between the various levels within the market.

Each category within the diagram is able to indicate how the different merchindise within the Saint Laurent brand can create a revenue. Some levels produce fewer items to secure exclusivity while other items will be manufactured in large quantities to supply the consumer demands. (posnerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;11)

At the top of the pyramid, exclusive couture and ultrapremium collections can be found. The second-highest teer of the pyramid is for the main RTW collection.

SLP Ready To Wear Accessories Licensing

The bottom of the pyramid are the entry-level items, these are often lincensed out to other companies (for example sunglasses & jewellery etc.)

The segment underneath that are those mass-produced apparel and accessories.

Top-price product

Premium-price product

Mid-price product

Lowest-price product TOP-PRICE PRODUCTS :

PREMIUM-PRICE PRODUCTS :

Highest price product, stocked in lower volumes; this helps maintain exclusivity.

Extends the offering of a high-end brand, making it available to more consumers.

Classic motorcycle jacket in black leather €3.490,00 // Bohème patchwork lavaliere mini dress in multicolour silk €2.490,00.

Classic single-breasted long tube jacket in grey natté wool €1.990,00. // Classic medium Emmanuelle fringed bucket bag in black leather €1.890,00.

Poduct examples -

MID-PRICE PRODUCT :

Poduct examples -

LOW PRICE-PRODUCT :

High number of styles stocked in relatively large volumes.

Offers consumers entry-level products.

Signature monogram cuff in black enamel coated brass €495,00. // Large monogram Saint Laurent flap wallet in black matelassé leather € 595,00.

Signature Saint Laurent interlocking YSL ring. €195.00 // Saint Laurent leather bracelet with knotted center €95,00.

Poduct examples -

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Poduct examples -

Chart showing product comparisons. PRODUCT

PRICE

DESCRIPTION

4.300,00 €

CLASSIC SAINT LAURENT MOTORCYCLE JACKET WITH EPAULETS, 3 ZIP POCKETS, SNAP CLOSURE FLAP POCKET, WAISTBAND WITH BELT LOOPS AND ZIP CUFFS. SAINT LAURENT PATCHWORK MINI DRESS WITH LAVALIERE COLLAR, SEMISHEER BLOUSON SLEEVES AND PLEATED SKIRT.

3.066,00 €

PRICING STRATEGY

Decline-Stage. FAD product.

Top-price

Maturity-stage. Fashion Product.

Top-price

2.460,00 €

CLASSIC SAINT LAURENT SINGLEBREASTED JACKET WITH PEAK LAPEL AND ELONGATED SILHOUETTE.

Maturity-stage. Fashion product.

Premiumprice

610,00 €

SIGNATURE SAINT LAURENT INTERLOCKING YSL BANGLE BRACELET. LARGE WALLET WITH CENTRAL SILVER-TONED, METAL INTERLOCKING YSL BUCKLE AND MATELASSÉ STITCHING. DIMENSIONS: 8.8 X 5.5 X 1.6 INCHES SIGNATURE SAINT LAURENT INTERLOCKING YSL RING.

Decline-stage. FAD product.

Mid-price

Growth-stage. Basic product.

Mid-price

Growth-stage. Basic Product.

Low-price

SAINT LAURENT LEATHER BRACELET WITH KNOTTED CENTER.

Decline-stage. Basic Product.

Low-price

735,00 €

195,00 €

95,00 €

PRODUCT LIFE CYCLE

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ortfolio Kering // Saint Laurent Paris.

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ackground:

Within the two divisions, the following brands can be found: The Luxury segments consists off:

Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Saint Laurent, Alexander

McQueen,

ACTIVITY

Balenciaga,

In the Sport & Lifestyle category:

Puma, Volcom, Cobra, Electric and

REPORT

Tretorn.

2013

Brioni, Christopher Kane, McQ, Stella McCartney, Tomas Maier, Sergio Rossi, Boucheron, Dodo, Girard-Perregaux, JEANRICHARD, Pomellato, Qeelin and Ulysse Nardin.

ission:

/ The Kering groups mission is to allow customers to express, fulfill and enjoy themselves through Saint Laurent products. This, is in line with underlying societal trends, increases in purchasing power, people seeking to affirm their personality and the desire to look and feel good. (http://www.kering.com)

// The holding company also has a duty to look after the SLP team as much as they look after its customers.

Kering Kering Corporate

Kering Americas

Kering Asia Pacific

Luxury Division

Sport & Lifestyle Division

Gucci

Puma

Bottega Vaneta

Volcom

YSL

Electric

Alexander McQueen

Balenciaga

Boucheron

Brioni

Christopher Kane

Pomellato

Qeelin

Stella McCartney

Ulysse Nardin

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Kering Portfolio.

ey figures:

Saint Laurent Paris is a subsidiary of the Kering group, who is leading the world apparel and accessories, which developed an ensemble of powerful brands in 2012. The Kering group has two divisions of fast growing segments; the Luxury sector and the Sport & Lifestyle sector. Saint Laurent is a world-known luxury brand, who created a partnership with Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;oreal in 2008. Breakdown of the Kering Group brands and their revenue in 2013: Saint Laurent Paris - 557 million in revenue, 77 million in recurring o p e r a t i n g i n c o m e & 11 5 d i r e c t l y o p e r a t e d s t o r e s . ACTIVITY

REPORT

2013

2013 16%

Bottega Vaneta

55% 8%

Saint Laurent

21%

Other Brands

Gucci

Breakdown of the Kering Group brands and their revenue in 2014: Saint Laurent Paris - 707 million in revenue, 105 million in recurring operating income & 128 directly operated stores.

2014 52% Gucci 17% Bottega Vaneta

10% Saint Laurent

21% Other Brands

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eritage & Legacy

“Founded in 1961, Yves Saint Laurent is one of the most prominent fashion houses of the 20th century. Originally an haute couture House, in 1966 Yves Saint Laurent revolutionised modern fashion through the introduction of luxury ready-to-wear under the name Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.” (“Saint Laurent business concept” from Kering group annual report in 2014) Mr. Yves Saint Laurent is one of the most important designers in the 20th century and who has influenced the entire fashion industry. If we say Coco Chanel free women, then YSL gives women power. YSL was the company that represented its soul with the use of new and innovating designs, they were a leading fashion brand. Yves Saint Laurent passed away in 2008. At this time, Hedi Slimane was appointed the new creative director of Saint Laurent women department. During which, the whole spirit of YLS was dead. Today, the fashion house has totally changed to a high-end fashion brand. Evolving from their leading fashion elegance, to now a new power and style. They do not work on the creative as such (inventing new designs), but they play with elements of the brand that are very well known and has become a substantial representation of the brand values. However, this has targeted a total new group of consumers, with the re-branding, the style has become newrock. Therefore we said that the spirit of YSL is dead, as the re-branding has altered the brand image completely, to un almost unrecognisable point. But we have to say, in terms of business, Hedi is doing great and is very successful. This can be seen below when reviewing the annual financial report from the Kering group analysing the past five years.

saint Laurent Key figures

Revenue in million Euros: 269-354-473-557-707 since 2010 to 2014. This accompanied with recurring operation income expenses, from 12-41-65-77-105. That means Kering invested 7% of SLPâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s profit into its operation, which is much higher than some other French luxury brands.

in $ millionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s revenues

recurring operation income average number of employees DOS

1800

2010

2011

269

354

2012

2013

475

557

2014

707

2015 /

105

993

1084

1208

1445

1712

115

128

Revenue Average number of employees

Recurring operation income DOS

1350 900 450 0 2010

2011

2012

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2013

2014

Western Europe 41%

North America 22%

46 31 33 17

Japan 7%

21 21

Other Countries 8% Asia Pacific 22%

Breakdown of 2014 revenue by region:

Total 2013: 115 Total 2014: 178

Number of DOS by region:

erformance review Overview the past 5 years performance at Saint Laurent gives a very positive financial result into brand business that balances in terms of both geographic markets and product categories. The leather goods and shoes together, add up to 66% of business and the ready-to-wear is showing to be the constant compared to the past 5 years. On the other hand the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Othersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; category continuous on dropping, to a low 10% last year. On a positive note, the Leather goods keep on increasing from 33% in 2010 to 47% in 2014.

2010

2011

2012 2013 2014 2015

Ready to Wear Leather Goods 26% 24% 19% 24% 24%

33% 35% 44% 44% 47%

Shoes

22% 25% 23% 22% 19%

Others

19% 16% 14% 10% 10%

/ The chart bellow illustrates the categories in which the Saint Laurent brand is made up off. It is noticeable that over the years (between 2010-2014), the leather goods division has experienced a significant and exponential growth. This apposed to the ‘others’ group which has been experiencing a decline.

Leather Goods

Ready to Wear

Shoes

Others

50% 37,5% 25% 12,5% 0%

2010

2011

2012

2013

2014

// Meanwhile the financial analysis of Saint Laurent shows (PPR & Kering’s annual financial report 2010-2014) that the total revenue is increasing strongly step by step from 2010 till today, as well as the number of DOS ( 78-128) together with their average number of employees ( 993-1712), the size of manpower dramatically turned to double. “Saint Laurent’s primary objective is to create and market highly desirable products, which embody the core values of the brand through innovation and unparalleled quality and design.” (Kering’s annual report in 2014) provided that SLP business strategy is perfect is resembled by the fast changing and competitive environment today.

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usiness Models Market Sectors // Marketing Analysis // Internal Analysis // External Analysis.

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arket Sectors:

The chart below indicates the internal and external structure of the Saint Laurent Paris brand.

Highlighting

the

categories

which

they produce themselves and those that are being outsourced to third-parties such as

Kering

manufacturers for sunglasses.

Saint Laurent Paris Licensing

Women

RTW

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Men

RTW

Bags

Accessories

Small Leather Goods

Jewellery

Shoes

n t e r n a l A n a l y s i s   Internal

SWOT Analysis for Saint Laurent Paris

origin

The SWOT analysis

STRENGTHS

WEAKNESSES

Kerring support Strong branding imagery Hedi’s loyal customers Heritage Specific market

Brand confusion Re-positioning Shortage in M-commerce &ECommerce

OPPORTUNITIES

THREATS

(Humphry, 1960) is an important tool to examine

the internal strengths and External E&M commerce platform weakness of Saint Laurent

origin

and refer to external opportunities and threats.

Hot second line cities in emerging market Specific Styling group target

Infringement

PESTLE Analysis for Saint Laurent Paris

The PESTLE analysis is an essential management tool to help to identify the

external macro environmental factors, conducted for the entire aspect effect to Saint Laurent in luxury industry. It consists of several factors, described below: xternal Analysis

Political factors

Europe: harmonious social environment China: developing country / positive government new policy North America :

Economic Factors

Europe: Economic backdown / Euros currency dropping China: GDP increased speed down / RMB currency strong & protected North America: Economic returning / US dollar getting strong

Socialcultural factors

Europe: mature luxury market / multicultural / understanding brands / focus on quality / Heritage China: emerging luxury market / traditional culture / weak luxury heritage North America: Mature luxury market / multicultural / practical / consumer

Technological Europe: high-end quality raw material /Jewellery handcraft skill / Advanced machine industry / handcraft skills / Mature producers factors market / strong barry to entry / strong innovation China: Weak raw material market/ Strong duplicate/ Mature producers industry/ weak barry to entry/weak handcraft skill /strong machine industry/ weak innovation North America: Weak raw material/ innovation base on consumer/

Legal factors

Europe: strict TM law protection China: weak on TM Law North America: strict TM law protection

Environment factors

Europe: Confident mindset / Fashion center / Chic / Prestige China: Easy Influenced by environment / new learner North America: Free style / lead by business

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rade Mark Forecasting Trade Mark Analysis // Nice Class Analysis.

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/ YSL and SLP trademark analysis: Timeline 01.01.1961-01.04.2015

// YSL vs. SLP TM Status: Active: 3006

Pending: 342 Inactive: 2573

YSL

Since 1966 Yves Saint Laurent launched YSL brand, till today there are totally 5921 TMs under YSL included Brand in â&#x20AC;&#x153;Saint Laurent Parisâ&#x20AC;?, YSL TMs status pie chart is show below.

Active 43%

51%

Pending Inactive

/// Saint Laurent

Saint Laurent has a total of 387 registered TMs 27 filed TMs, 58 expired TMs, 74 ended TMs since 1966 when Yves Saint Laurent had launched the Haute Couture in Paris.

Ended 74 Filed 27 Expired 58 Registered 387

Ended Filed Expired Registered

//// YSL vs. SLP Nice Class

Number of TM-SLP 300 225 150 75 0

Number of TM-YSL 300 225 150 75 0

V YSL vs. SLP Origin map

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V/ Timeline 01.01.2009-01.04.2015 (Saint Laurent TM) Status:

387 TMs has included 47 TMs which from 2009, more or less about 6 years time. In addition, since 2012 Kering has started to parent ship with Saint Laurent they already registered less than 20 TMs all over the world. Be aware one TradeMark application processing period is could be up to 6 months.

Expired 0 Ended 3 Filed 1 Registered 43

V// Origin Map

Expired Ended Filed Registered

V/// Nice Class:

/ 3 (Cosmetics) is the toppest category of Saint Laurent (YSL) now under control of the L’oreal group since 2008 (sold).

// 18 and 25, which are Leather goods and apparel. These are the most targeted product lines in the Saint Laurent product range. However since 2009, Saint Laurent has registered in total around 24TM’s in the “Others” category, such as jewellery, sunglasses and alternative accessories. Therefore, we would like to believe that they are going to properly launch a new product line with some relevance to accessories with a high-technology function.

Number of TM 30 22,5 15 7,5 0

9 14 18 25 4 21 35 16 24 34 37 41 43 6 29 30

3: perfumery; perfumes; eau du parfum; eau de toilette; eau de cologne; beauty products 18: Leather and imitation leather 9: Spectacle frames, spectacles, sunglasses, tinted or anti glare spectacles, 14: Precious metals and their alloys; works of art (made of precious metal); jewellery (including fashion jewelry) of precious metal 25: Clothing, belts (clothing), gloves (clothing), footwear and headgear.

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ristibution Distribution System // Channels // Retail Presence.

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istribution System

Retail Channel A strong directly-operated store network is important for Saint Laurent as a luxury brand, in order to maintain control over the consumer shopping experiences, merchandising and customer service, as well as product assortment. Saint Laurent in 2014, had sales mainly deriving from DOS sales.

These categorised as followed; / Boutique

// Mono brand

/// Shop in shop //// Outlets

V E-commerce by Saint Laurent

Wholesale Channel The wholesale channel typically includes department stores, independent high-end multibrand stores, franchise stores and concept stores.

E-commerce by third party

Online sales consist of SEM & independent retailers, such as Ellos, KingSize Direct, La redoute, Luisa via Roma. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yves_Saint_Laurent_(brand)) Tr a v e l r e t a i l Airport stores Train station stores

International Distribution:

ey :

Designed by Slimane, Saint Laurent plans to continue to expand its presence in the United States. / In 2013, a men’s store opened in San Francisco ( the first brand store) // A full-line store opened in New York City, in its SoHo neighborhood, /// A full-line store opened in Chicago at the Waldorf Astoria on Rush Street,

/ Barcelona // Munich /// Berlin //// Warsaw V// Rome V/// Moscow V//// Cannes.

Resort location stores: / Bal Harbour // Florida /// “As well as a planned store for Washington, D.C..”

The brand has a heavy presence in Japan: / Kyoto // Tokyo /// Osaka //// Outlets

International locations includes a strong presence in Europe, with boutiques ranging in location:

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Kiev V/ Bologna

Middle East and Africa: / Casablanca // Abu Dhabi /// Beirut //// Jeddah. In Asia Saint Laurent boutiques can be found in / Jakarta // Bangkok /// Seoul //// Macau V Hong Kong.

In China stand-alone boutiques are located in: / Wuhan // Shanghai /// Beijing //// (Willing to release new openings)

New openings after 2012:

The map above highlights the new store openings after 2012 since Hedi was appointed as Saint Laurent creative director in womenswear. This map shows that the most new openings are located within Asia, and North America. Meanwhile Europe and Japan, remain their main leading market. There are 8 DOS in Japan already besides a few outlet stores.

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ompetitors Analysis // Evaluation.

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ompetitive Environment:

Since its conception, Yves Saint Laurent has held enormous influence within and outside the fashion industry. Its founder, Yves Saint Laurent secured a reputation as one of the 20th centuryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most famous and important fashion designers. Saint Laurent has the following competition structure; Balenciaga is the strongest competitor to Saint Laurent. They are also a global, high-end exclusive luxury brand, who have a leading position within the ready-to-wear, leather goods and other fashion accessories sectors, as well as target the same consumer group. Compared to Alexandro wang & Phillip Lim, who are brands with lower priced items, but approach a similar target market. Celine & Valentino are much different with this spot, they are more elegant & timeless. However Celine & Valentino are also producing RTW, leather goods etc which indicates that they are likewise sharing the market.

Product

Place

Promotion

Price

KEY Saint Laurent

Valentino

CĂŠline

Balenciaga

Alexander Wang

Phillip Lim

Brand

Ready-towear

Leather good

Shoes

Others

Alexander Very good high- Find leather good Sharing the end fast fashion mostly target Wang

Very similar style, depend on the quality & price

Balenciaga Very strong

High-end exclusive luxury leather good, very popular within young generation

Very similar style, depend on the quality & price

Valentino

Elegant, timeless find apparel. 20% RTW target for young ladies, share market with SLP

Very high-end Different target Different target but quality of product, but sharing the sharing the market they start to market produce leather bags now

Celine

N/A

Produce very Different target N/A but sharing the high-end quality leather good, market entry level bags price is very similar as Saint Laurent, targeted the same group of Saint Laurent bag consumer.

young brand, big rang of RTW collections.

competitor with Saint Laurent, similar RTW collections

Phillip Lim Fast fashion

high-end brand, share the same market as Saint Laurent, price is cheaper, entry level lower.

market

They have similar consumer group and share the market, entry level lower, price is cheaper.

Strong competitive with Saint Laurent

They have similar consumer group and share the market, entry level lower, price is cheaper.

The two brands highlighted in red, are our primary competitors.

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The Chart on the right hand-side, compares the competitors with one another within the RTW, Bags and Shoes categories. The competitor CĂŠline does not have a RTW image displayed as we feel that this aspect is not a level of competition for the Saint Laurent brand.

Shoes Bags RTW

N/A

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uture Direction Ansoffâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Matrix // Opportunity // Business Strategy.

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nsoff’s Matrix:

We used the Ansoff’s Matrix (1957) to deliver further analysis for possible opportunities that Saint Laurent may develop to achieve their growth. This is a useful tool to help and support the business strategy of Saint Laurent and any further decision-making process. Ansoff’s Matrix We used the Ansoff’s Matrix (1957) to deliver further analysis for possible opportunities that Saint Laurent may develop to achieve their growth. This is a useful tool to help and support the business strategy of Saint Laurent and any further decision making process.

Existing markets

Existing products

New products

Market Penetration

Product development

“Ready to wear” for niche class

Develop their “online store”, so clients can actually buy the products using YSL.com

Leather goods with comparable price

Work on Saint Laurent APP to continuing with “Le smoking” suit improve M-commerce;

New markets

Improve all the other accessories into a specific market

To open Saint Laurent Resort or hotel with brand boutique, bars and create a new SLP heritage and image in Paris, London, NY & LA.

Market development

Diversification

Maintain exciting DOS in emerging markets, continuing open new DOS in potential countries and hot cities: such as Chengdu,China.

Globalisation & multiculture would be a new opportunity for the Saint Laurent brand, to create a new loyal consumer group.

Strong push in promotion segment.

After having analysed the Saint Laurent brand and their new target audience, we have come to a conclusion that there are various options in regards to their future prospects:

/ Free Trade Zone in China

China (Shanghai) Pilot Free Trade Zone comprises four areas under the special administration of Customs -- Waigaoqiao Free Trade Zone, Waigaoqiao Free Trade Logistics Park, Yangshan Free Trade Port Area and Pudong Airport Free Trade Zone. The entire zone covers a combined 28.78 square kilometres. China (Shanghai) Pilot Free Trade Zone marks a major milestone in the nation’s commitment to forge ahead with domestic reforms and wider opening to world markets, in line with global economic trends. The priorities of the zone are to explore new routes and systems for China’s opening-up policies, to accelerate the transformation of how government functions, to promote economic restructuring and to prioritize development steps to ensure effective but stable growth. The zone also aims to pioneer innovative ideas that can be replicated in future in other parts of the country. The launch of China (Shanghai) Free Trade Zone will nurture China’s new global competitiveness and establish a new platform to bolster global cooperation and lift the quality of China’s economic development to a new plane. (http://en.china-shftz.gov.cn/About-FTZ/ Introduction/)

Under this big economical and environmental encouragement by the China government, Saint Laurent could build up basement storage within CPFTZ in Shanghai, for the next step into the market expansion within the Asian area. This will have a logistical benefit. By that time, all the products shipped to the CPFTZ area will be duty free when entering China. Under this big economical and environmental encouragement by the China government, Saint Laurent could build up basement storage within CPFTZ in Shanghai, for the next step into the market expansion within the Asian area. This will have a logistical benefit. By that time, all the products shipped to the CPFTZ area will be duty free when entering China. The benefit from the Free Trade Zone for Saint Laurent is to lead the logistic/stock/price within the Asian environment. This is where we can receive a the advantage of the Chinese free trade zone policy. Further more, CPFTZ recognises that China is now getting more available to the international market after the past 30 years of the Chinese economical reform.

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// Focus on 2nd level of cities in China such as Chengdu

“In hot pursuit of China’s elite league, one city is sprinting ahead of its second-tier rivals, hoping to join the ranks of Shanghai, Beijing, Guangzhou and Shenzhen.”(http://www.businessoffashion.com/ articles/global-currents/chengdu-chinas-next-fashion-powerhouse)

Cheng du, as the hot-in-fashion & lifestyle city just behind Shanghai, Beijing, Shenzhen and Guangzhou, would be a big opportunity for Saint Laurent’s market opportunity.

/// North America

North America is a mature luxury & lifestyle market, which will maintain in the same position. However, as North America’s economics advances step by step, Saint Laurent started to plan new openings in the United States & Mexico.

//// Saint Laurent nice class trend forecast

Everyone knows by now that Saint Laurent’s main product category is RTW & leather goods. Soon, Saint Laurent will invest in other accessories such as precious metals and their alloys; works of art (made of precious metal) and jewellery (including fashion jewellery) of precious metal.

V Webzine / Channel

We suggest that they improve their digital development. This means creating a platform where they can thoroughly communicate with their clients and establish a customer-loyalty base. We recommend that this is achievable through a more developed ‘Saint Laurent Paris’ You-tube channel or even a web-zine that is linked through their website. This acts as an informative social media platform that will notify the SLP followers of upcoming exclusive events, the best night clubs to go to, concerts, endorser, updates etc. This platform will revolve around the same rock and grunge theme/vibe as their new brand embodies.

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V/ Collaborations

Collaborations with technologically advanced artists are another way of taking the re-branded company to the next level. In order to establish a large target market within Asia, we suggest that another collaboration could be made with a Asian artist. An example is the Chinese singer “Momo Wu”.

V// New iconic item

After Hedi Slimane became the new creative director, there is a great opportunity for him to create a new Saint Laurent iconic piece. Instead of continuing to re-style previous designs, he can create a garment and look that is up-to-date and appealing to their new customers. A bomber jacket (also known as the varsity jacket) is a great way to go, since it is sporty, distinctive yet able to be styled-up or down. The origin comes from skin-heads who used to be the rebels of society back in the day.

V/// Stores

After thorough evaluation and consideration, we have come to the conclusion that the current stores need to either re-locate and/or renovate. We cannot close a store as this is negative advertisment for our brand. This means further developing the new Saint Laurent brand image. We need to make sure that the remaining stores, with the past brand DNA and interior, do not create confusion for our new customers. After the re-brand, Saint Laurent has become a newly established company. No longer linked to the YSL past. The old needs to evolve into the new. Current areas have already gone through this process like; Paris, New-York, London, Berlin etc. However, renewing an existing boutique can cost around 14,000€ per square metre. This means that a rigid business strategy is needed in order to afford the changes. It is best to continue renovating stores within ‘hot’ cities first, before attempting to alter others.

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ibliography

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BOOKS

David Teboul; Yves Saint Laurent 5, Avenue Marceau, 75116 Paris , France Florence M端ller and Farid Chenoune; Yves Saint Laurent Harriet Posner; Marketing Fashion

WEBSITES http://www.biography.com/people/yves-saint-laurent-9469669 http://www.kering.com/en/brands/luxury/saint-laurent https://chloestudd.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/saintlaurentparisbrieffinalpdf.pdf http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charles_of_the_Ritz https://moriahkathleen.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/binder2.pdf http://www.kering.com/en/sustainability/achievements/saint_laurent_stores_packaging http://productlifecyclestages.com http://study.com/academy/lesson/fad-definition-examples-quiz.html http://www.fondation-pb-ysl.net/en/Secrets-65.html https://www.31philliplim.com http://www.ysl.com/it http://www.balenciaga.com/us https://www.celine.com/en http://www.alexanderwang.com http://www.wipo.int/portal/en/index.html http://www.valentino.cn/cn http://baike.baidu.com/link?url=cOs_M_ http://en.china-shftz.gov.cn

ONLINE ARTICLES http://www.instyle.com/celebrity/ysl-his-legacy-lives#64909 http://www.marieclaire.co.uk/news/beauty/175640/l-oreal-buys-ysl.html http://www.styleite.com/news/hedi-slimane-ysl-rebranding/ http://www.ibtimes.com/exnet/yves-saint-laurent-changes-its-iconic-name-upsettingfashionistas-everywhere-797095 http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2013/sep/19/hedi-slimane-yves-saint-laurent-ysl http://www.arcstreet.com/article-saint-laurent-paris-architecture-a-new-vision-118465373. html http://www.highsnobiety.com/2013/03/27/saint-laurent-paris-opens-concept-store-in-berlin/ http://www.thisisglamorous.com/2014/05/le-smoking-hedi-slimane-2014-version-of-yvessaint-laurents-signature-look/ http://www.styleite.com/news/hedi-slimane-french-vogue-interview/ http://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/what-to-make-of-saint-laurent http://www.businessoffashion.com http://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/2015/02/saint-laurent-los-angeles-private-sessions/ http://en.pambianconews.com/2015/04/16/the-cost-of-a-shop-window/

VISUALS http://www.yslbeauty.co.uk/makeup/lips/rouge-pur-couture-the-mats/1022YSL. http://www.style.com html?dwvar_1022YSL_color=203%20Rouge%20Rock&cgid=makeup-lips-andnails#start=8&cgid=makeup-lips-and-nails http://www.ysl.com/gb/shop-product/women/ready-to-wear-leather-jacket-classic-motorcyclejacket-in-black-leather_cod40116332jl.html#dept=leather_rtw_women_ http://www.ysl.com http://www.balenciaga.com h t t p : / / w w w. y s l . c o m / g b / s h o p - p r o d u c t / w o m e n / l e a t h e r - g o o d s - m o n o g r a m - l a r g e monogram-saint-laurent-flap-wallet-in-black-matelasse-leather_cod45234513jq. html#dept=leathergoods_women_ https://www.celine.com/en http://www.alexanderwang.com http://www.ysl.com/gb/shop-product/women/jewelry-cuffs-and-bangles-signature-monogramcuff-in-black-enamel-coated-brass_cod50156296qj.html#dept=jewels_women_ http://www.ysl.com/gb/shop-product/women/ready-to-wear-blazer-jacket-classic-singlebreasted-long-tube-jacket-in-grey-natte-wool_cod34446743ft.html#dept=blazer_rtw_ women_ http://www.vogue.com http://www.yslbeauty.co.uk/fragrance/black-opium/WW-40701YSL.html?dwvar_WW40701YSL_size=1.0%20oz.&cgid=fragrance#start=2&cgid=fragrance h t t p : / / w w w. y s l b e a u t y. c o . u k / m a k e u p / l i p s / l i p s t i c k s / r o u g e - p u r - c o u t u r e - t h e mats/1022YSL.html?dwvar_1022YSL_color=203%20Rouge%20Rock&cgid=makeuplipstick#start=6&cgid=makeup-lipstick http://www.fondation-pb-ysl.net/medias/images/15360612.jpg http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destination/china/140141/Chengdu-city-break-guide.html http://www.valentino.cn/cn https://www.31philliplim.com http://www.ysl.com/corporate/en/saint-laurent-collections/men-spring-summer-13/looks/

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hank You MA Luxury & Lifestyle Management.