Fashion Buying Portfolio by Roger Artiga

fashion buying and merchandising PORTFOLIO. MARCH, 2013

roger artiga international business strategy, product development and design expert mba fashion business

fashion buying and merchandising

roger artiga

mba fashion business

Roger Ar tiga www.artigadesign.com roger@artigadesign.com +86 (155) 0210 6332

International Business Strategy, Product Development and Design Expert MBA Fashion Business

Innovative Canadian Multidisciplinary Designer with 16 years of international experience in Art Directing, Product Designing and Branding. Excellent managerial skills with proven effectiveness in setting the overall tone in the conceptual development of new product lines and improving existing lines. FLUENT IN: English - French - Spanish - Portuguese. • International Retail, Design, and Production experience. • Client / Market oriented with excellent understanding of Production / Cost processes. • Solid understanding of brand identity and its integration to the garment and the point of sales. • High organizational skills to achieve project timelines and to adhere to budgets. • Advance knowledge in garment construction and strong understanding of printing/embellishment techniques. • Computer literate. Mac and PC. Advanced knowledge of Illustrator and Photoshop.

goes denim friendly Career Highlights Senior Design Manager - Graphics, Active and Intimates. Hansae Fashion Worldwide. Seoul, South Korea. June 2009 – August 2012. Managed Design Team providing Art Direction and strategic line plan tailored to different segments for the American Market. Developed US$10M business for Old Navy Graphics by strategically aligned and trained different C.O.O. (Vietnam / Guatemala). Client Portfolio: American Eagle, Abercrombie, Aeropostale, Gap Outlet, Old Navy, Victoria’s Secret, Pink. Designer. Ladie’s Activewear, Denim and Outerwear. Sears Canada. Montreal / Toronto, Canada. February 2005 – May 2009. Designed in-house collections to maintain the positioning of domestic brands according to company strategies. Assuring visual consistency of different items by researching and creating seasonal trends, key silhouettes, fabrications, prints, and color schemes on quarterly basis for On Line, Catalogue, and In-Store product mix. Brand Portfolio: Nevada (junior denim); R&R Sports (ladie’s activewear); Alpinetek (ladies outerwear). Head Designer / Merchandiser Men’s wear. Inizio Fashion Groups. Montreal, Canada. August 2004 – February 2005. Created collections for key accounts: Macy’s in U.S.A. and Via Seto Stores in Canada. Generated color and seasonal trend theme according to company strategy. Developed technical packages and verified samples to be manufactured according to specs. Coordinated production packages with overseas sub-contractors and manufacturers (Turkey and India). Merchandising and Product Development Manager. Soft Home Fashion and Licensed Children’s Apparel. Facalca Hiltex. San Salvador, El Salvador. January 1999 – August 2004. Created, implemented and budgeted the Company Branding and Merchandising Annual Plan. Increased average product mark-up in 38% by implementing the sub-contractor / vendor program. Trained personnel involved in sub-contractor program quality assurance. Created strategic alliances with suppliers and reorganized outsourcing process for trimmings, packaging and other supplies involved in the product development process to minimize inventory. Education MBA Fashion Business. IFA Paris/ POLIMODA Florence. 2012 - 2013. Hon. B.A. Product Design. Escuela de Artes Aplicadas Carlos Alberto Imery. El Salvador, 1993-1998.

goes denim friendly 9

What’s Spinning? Fashion Industry Article Review Sustainability Consumer Behaviour Innovation Business Strategy Sourcing

True Win-win-win Relation. Sustainability On The Raise. Monkey Sees, Monkey Does. New Business Opportunities. How Much More Of Varsity Logos And Stripe Henly Does A Teen Need? Designer’s Green House For A Better Fashion Harvest. The Egg Basket Is Changing.

Benchmarking On The Top. Shop Reports For The Ym Graphic Tee Market In Shanghai. American Eagle - Approach Of An American Company Conquering The Chinese Market. Lee China - Global Company With Regional Strategies. Me & City - Chinese Company. Meters/bonwe - Chinese Company. Fairwhale Shake - Chinese Company.

at Home. 33 Shopping Fashion Retailer On-Line Preseence Review.

Diesel On-Line Store.

Talks. 37 Money Price Strategy Analysis for Scotch & Soda Men’s Shirts.

43 Company Analysis Fashion Retailer. Forever 21.

Wardrobe 49 Open Range Plan Developed for J.Crew Denim. SS14 of the Blue. 65 Out Colorways for Printed Denim.

71 Not Just Denim

Spec Sheet for Fenim Friendly Junior Top.

goes denim friendly

Roger Ar tiga International Business Strategy, Product Development and Design Expert MBA Fashion Business

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Spinning? Fashion Industry Article Review Sustainability True Win-win-win Relation. Sustainability On The Raise. Consumer Behaviour Monkey Sees, Monkey Does. New Business Opportunities. Innovation How Much More Of Varsity Logos And Stripe Henly Does A Teen Need? Business Strategy Designerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Green House For A Better Fashion Harvest. Sourcing The Egg Basket Is Changing.

original articl

Puma Opens World’s First “Sustainable Store” in India by Jasmin Malik Chua, 08/27/12 Discarded DVD players, castoff bicycles, and filtered lake silt are among the unconventional materials that make up Puma’s first-ever “sustainable store,” one that the active wear giant hails as a revolution in the concept of retail spaces. Opened in a suburb in Bangalore, India on Thursday, the 8,600-squarefoot building features a highly insulated shell that allows for cooling without air-conditioning. In addition to recessed ceilings, which facilitate the “stack effect” for natural cooling, an underground heat-sink system maintains temperatures at a constant 24 degrees Celsius (75 degrees Fahrenheit) throughout the year. To shield the building from direct heat from above, the store boasts a rooftop garden. Green Store Neither energy-efficient lighting nor occupancy sensors were enough for Puma. More than 90 percent of the interior has direct access to natural light. For its other needs, the 100 percent solar-powered store relies on a phalanx of photovoltaic cells, enough to generate 10,384 kwh units of energy a year. Completely solar-powered, the store’s photovoltaic cells generates 10,384 kwh units of energy a year The store’s architects clad their crea tion in recycled steel from old electronics, bicycles, and Tiffin boxes, along with porotherm blocks made using waste from the annual desalting of the lakes in Kunigal. For its furniture and fixtures, the company opted for recycled wood, plus low volatile-organic-compound paint for the walls. But the store’s green credentials are more than skin deep. The space will retail a range of products made from organic cotton, as well as Puma’s “Wilderness Collection,” a line of apparel, footwear, and accessories primarily sourced and manufactured in Kenya from sustainable materials. “Puma is happy to take this pioneering step forward for the retail industry,” says Franz Koch, the company’s CEO. “Establishing a sustainable Puma Store underlines our commitment to reduce carbondioxide emissions, energy, water and waste in Puma offices, stores, warehouses and direct supplier factories by 2015.” [http://www.ecouterre.com/puma-opens-worlds-first-sustainable-store-in-india/ accessed on 01/24/13]

FOCUS ON SUSTAINABILITY

Follow original article on Ecouterre.com

True Win-win-win Relation. Sustainability On The Raise.

Posted on Aug,12. “Puma Sustainable Store Opening in India” Roger Artiga. MBA Fashion Business.

Eco-friendly production is a trendy topic in the fashion

PUMA is 100% committed to their FAIR / HONEST / POSITIVE /

industry; it seems to be a win-win-win relation for brand,

CREATIVE philosophy for the garment and for the in-store

consumer and nature… but is it?

experience.

Long we can talk about the organic cotton consumption lead

When we talk about fashion business we normally focus on the

by the big retailers H&M, C&A, Nike and Inditex therefore, are

actual product that is being sold (garments) but what about

these retailers really committed to preserve the environment?

the placement and promotion that also affect the product?

With tons of clothing pieces produced in a year that matches

As much as this sort of installations take a lot more budget

equal amount of hang tags (sometimes featuring UV coating or

than the usual signage and shelves; we have to consider the

laminated finishing) and other packaging materials; and let’s

brand impact on consumer’s mind when pushing the whole

not even talk about all the amount of garment disposal that

shopping experience through all marketing elements. Prob-

the mentioned retailers are encouraging with all the numerous

ably asking GAP or Target to change the whole store appeal

sales on the race to take a bigger part of the pie; is the 3%

for a limited edition eco-friendly collection would be too much,

percent of organic cotton blend content in their garments

but how about creating a corner that will provide consumers

enough to compensate and to publically claim a true commit-

with this mind set inside the store? I can almost hear the

ment for eco-friendly practices?

Financial Department screaming about the huge investment impact but let’s think of how the consumer would perceive a

The approach that PUMA is taking goes therefore to a totally

small step like this? Wouldn’t it be also helpful for the brand

different level, where it is not only about the product itself but

image? From a marketing standpoint, wouldn’t this drive

about the whole retail store and branding.

attention and lastly traffic to the product impacting not only the brand value but lastly PR and Sales? In the end the com-

Why is PUMA doing this? As mentioned in their brand sustain-

mitment for sustainability is not only about making garments

ability report (1) PUMA has “a vision of a better world. A world

with eco-friendly fibers and treatments but about truly commu-

that is safer, more peaceful and more creative than the world

nicating the message to our customers to finally awaken the

we know today”.

desire for a better world. It seems to me that this would be a true win-win-win situation for brand, consumers and nature.

Therefore PUMA’s commitment doesn’t stop with the product. The brand also thought about the place, by designing a store that displays recycled materials and will run with energy saving technologies, besides optimizing the natural sun light illumination among other environmentally conscious practices.

(1) http://about.puma.com/sustainability/

original articl

Little Devils Wear Prada: How is Adult Fashion Infiltrating the Childrenswear Market? Children are becoming spoilt for choice when it comes to clothing. An increasing

The move is more challenging in the uppermost echelons of the market due to

number of traditionally adult-focused apparel brands are entering the childrens-

branding issues. Luxury has traditionally been perceived as an adult realm due to its

wear category, and rightly so given its strong growth forecasts and attractive

heavy promotion of sexual fantasy and over-indulgence. In fact, designers which

margins. Traditionally, consumers have sought out low-priced clothing for their

have tended to do well in the childrenswear category, such as Ralph Lauren and

children due to the speed at which they grow. However, the recent shift in

Baby Dior, have been those with a classic brand image and conservative

consumer attitudes is increasingly benefiting thepremium and luxury childrenswear

product offering.

segments. This is most evident in the BRIC nations where rising disposable incomes and vast improvements in quality of life have led parents to devote more funds to

Success may be more difficult for designers such as Roberto Cavalli, whose brand

their children. At the same time, increased fashion-consciousness among women

has been built around slinky evening gowns which adorn starlets from the red

has spurred a “mini-me” phenomenon as they begin to view their children as a

carpet to the Riviera. Whilst the extension into childrenswear may be a means of

reflection of their own personal style. The BRIC nations are set to drive growth in the

deepening its relationship with existing loyalists, it is likely to cater only for a fractional

global childrenswear market, with sales forecast to rise by US$26 billion by 2016.

part of the market. Replicating adult styles or even trying to distil the essence of the

China, India and Russia are expected to register CAGRs of 8%, 11.5%

Cavalli brand for babies and toddlers is unlikely to draw in new consumers. This is

and 9.5%, respectively.

because the wide majority of consumers find it in bad taste to impose sophisticated styles on children, even in mature Western markets. For example, in 2011 in the UK,

Western luxury and high street brands alike have been keen to ride this shifting wave

major retailers launched new initiatives to address the increased sexualisation of

of consumer culture. Inditex opened its first stand-alone Zara Kids store in China in

childrenswear following the government-commissioned Bailey Review into the

2006 while Baby Dior entered the market in 2010, followed by Burberry and Armani

commercialisation and sexualisation of childhood.

in 2011. Their success has been evident. Affluent Chinese parents proved reluctant to reduce their spending on childrenswear in 2011 despite the economic slowdown.

Shifting consumer attitudes have created bountiful opportunities in the fashionable

The perception of luxury products as status symbols and high prices as a sign of

childrenswear market. Aside from the BRICs, even mature markets will contribute to

quality continued to keep luxury childrenswear afloat.

growth. Childrenswear in the US is forecast a CAGR of 7.1% compared to just 3.6%

This trend is echoed in Russia. As Russian women have become the new darlings of

for overall apparel. However, success, regardless of price point, lies in the ability to

street style photographers, it comes as no surprise that their sartorial sensibilities are

sensitively translate and not simply minimise prevalent style trends into suitable

reflected in their children. As the concept of fashionable childrenswear blossoms in

clothing for the young. For example, whilst the Zara Kids promotional video, shot in

Russia, not only are price and durability taken into account by consumers, but

moody greyscale, bears an uncanny resemblance to its adult lines, its children’s

brand, design, comfort and other characteristics are also considered. The range of

clothing is very traditional – full-sleeves, soft colours and not a slinky dress in sight.

clothing available for children, from economy to luxury, is now almost equal to that

At the luxury end, brands wishing to turn their childrenswear lines from simple brand

for adults.

embellishments to real profit-making endeavours must look beyond their existing fans to a much broader consumer base, attracting those who are willing to invest in

Fast fashion titans have been particularly successful in making the transition from

the best for their little ones but remain conservative in their views on how children

dressing adults to children. H&M has maintained a steady fourth place in the global

should be dressed.

childrenswear rankings since 2006, whilst rival Inditex rose from ninth place in 2006 to sixth in 2011. [http://blog.euromonitor.com/2012/09/little-devils-wear-prada-how-is-adult-fashion-infiltrating-the-childrenswear-market.html

ACCESSED ON 02-18-2013]

FOCUS ON CONSUMER BEHAVIOUR

Follow original article on Euromonitor.com

Monkey Sees, Monkey Does. New Business Opportunities.

Posted on Sep,12. “Little Devils Wear Prada” Roger Artiga. MBA Fashion Business.

Women’s clothing industry will report a 12% increase by

This new consumer behaviour trend can be a promising

2014 as reported by Marketline (1) despite the global

scenario for brands with none or little kids’ wear background as

economy downturn; but don’t be fooled by the increasing

it can be an extension for their current product mix. In the

rate on women’s apparel consumption as we have to take a

other hand, for traditional-well-established-children’s wear

look at the big picture where new upcoming brands are

companies, this new trend can translate into revamping their

fighting for a position on the ladies’ mind on top of the already

lines and to offer premium collections to the product mix.

established brands. This trend is applicable to Mass Retailers, Specialty Stores and As the market is getting more saturated competition is getting

Luxury Houses and we can forecast hard competition once the

tougher; therefore everybody is still wondering what would be

consumer is fully educated.

the next untapped market to increase sales. The new challenge is now into developing a strategy that will Interesting point about the article from Euromonitor is how the

stay truthful to the brand DNA and will at the same time

industry is looking at the “little consumers”; the children’s wear

glamour the kid’s mind. It is not about offering scale models of

arena is growing and seems promising. The trend here is for

the product mix already on the adult consumer floor, but to

the well-groomed woman who is not only conscious of carry-

twist it and reinterpret this DNA to capture the little ones

ing a chic bag with stylish pair of shoes to complement her

attention; mostly because kids are also making their own

trendy outfit but also conscious about the ultimate accessory:

decision on what to wear, on developing their own fashion

of course, the kids!

style, and building their own identity following the models seen on their parents… remember: monkey sees, monkey does.

Mothers are translating their fashion sense to their children. If she looks good the kid has to look good to play the part. This

Buyers then have to develop a keen eye to create an assort-

trend is mostly current in developing economies as it draws

ment that will captivate both parents and kids equally. Brands

distinction in society, though it is also present in mature markets

who conquer the kid’s market today can also build brand

and as a consequence it is opening new business opportunities.

loyalty that will get a long way in the future when these new little consumers get into the work force.

(1) http://www.reportlinker.com/ci02124/Women-s-Clothing.html

original articl

Aeropostale Holiday Sales Slide, Losing Out To Rivals. Jan 10 (Reuters) - Aeropostale Inc confirmed fears of weak sales during the holiday selling period as the budget-friendly teen clothes retailer saw sales slide, sending shares down nearly 10 percent on Thursday.Aeropostale has been losing out to rivals like American Eagle Outfitters Inc, and said the environment in the teen apparel space was still heavily promotional."Following a strong Black Friday weekend, sales and traffic trends deteriorated significantly in December," Aeropostale Chief Executive Officer Thomas Johnson said in a statement. The New York-based company has had trouble engaging its young clientele with its merchandise. Wardrobe staples like graphic T-shirts and fleece during cold weather often make for the lion's share of teen clothing inventories and Aeropostale has had a tough time selling those. Aeropostale shares were down 9.8 percent at $12.05 in early morning trading on the New York Stock Exchange.Richard Jaffe, an analyst with Stifel Nicolaus research firm, said fashion merchandise was performing better than basic clothing and fashion items represent only a small portion of Aeropostale's total merchandise."The underperforming core basics category represents the majority of the store and requires deep discounts to sell," Jaffe said.He said that in the crowded "classic, preppy" merchandise business, companies such as Abercrombie and Aeropostale "lack differentiation" so they compete mostly on price. Aeropostale, which gave numbers for the nine weeks ended Dec. 29, said sales fell 6 percent.In contrast, American Eagle, which posted numbers for the period ended Jan. 8, said sales had risen 5 percent and post-Christmas selling was strong.Separately, Urban Outfitters Inc, which owns the Anthropologie chain, said sales for two months ending Dec. 31 rose 15 percent over the same period last year. The weak sales prompted Aeropostale to cut back on its expectations for its fourth quarter. The company now expects net earnings of 20 cents to 24 cents per share, compared with its earlier outlook of 36 cents to 41 cents. * Aeropostale holiday sales down 6 percent * Aeropostale cuts back Q4 EPS view * American Eagle holiday sales up 5 pct * Urban Outfitters holiday sales up 15 pct [http://www.reuters.com/article/2013/01/10/aeropostale-americaneagle-sales-idUSL1E9CA2KV20130110

accesed on 02/18/13]

FOCUS ON INNOVATION

How Much More of Varsity Logos and Stripe Henley does a Teen Need?

Follow original article on Reuters.com Posted on Jan, 2013. “Aeropostale Holiday Sales Slide, Losing out to Rivals” Roger Artiga. MBA Fashion Business.

In the Apparel Teen Market with a myriad of choices what is the best

I have done market analysis for Aeropostale and A&F for the past 8

strategy to captivate the constantly revolving young adult’s mind? Brands

quarters and the store picture hardly changes, always the same tees with

like Aeropostale and Abercrombie have relied on the cool factor, exclusiv-

the same logo, yes with new techniques but how much can you innovate

ity, and positioning in order to stay on top of their game.

with a printing technique in order to keep that 16 year-old girl coming back every in-store delivery?

Aeropostale had found a niche in the young audience by offering Cool Graphic Tee’s bearing the “AEROPOSTALE” logo featuring different lay-outs

Coming from a design background I strongly believe creativity and

with innovative printing and embroidery techniques; same as its rival Aber-

innovation sell, fashion sells, so isn’t it time for these retailers to start

crombie & Fitch with its preppy look and daring advertorials, both young

implementing new silhouettes, to reinvent their product mix to engage

market retailers thought they had it all, and they did... in the past. Therefore

their young audience into tweetering about the new collection to their

what else has to be done? It is not a secret that both retailers are stuck in

friends? The past business model was successful but teens are easily

their “successful” business model that recently has proven not to be so

bored as they are hungry for trends and innovation. The innovative factor

successful with the closing of 70 Stores in the US for A&F and the 6% sales

has to be bold; implementing tri-blend fabric into the same old product

down for Aeropostale closing holiday 2012.

mix doesn’t provide enough impact in the young consumer. Digits don’t lie, and as mentioned by Richard Jaffe, fashion merchandise was

The global economy downturn has its share on this, but, how can we explain

performing better than basic clothing though fashion items were just a

that companies such as American Eagle and Urban Outfitters, also framed

small portion of Aeropostale’s merchandise.

in the same economical picture are showing positive financial figures. What else is to be said? I would just tell that Art Director to start going out Teen market is very appealing, they have the urge to shop, to stay trendy, to

and checking the cool spots in the city, start checking on those teens’

be cool; yes they might not have the disposable income of a young profes-

behaviour, get soaked with the cool factor that is the center of their

sional, yet they made their own purchasing decisions, they are deeply

lifestyles and come back to discuss with Graphic Designers and Fashion

influenced by media and their social circle and... They have credit cards

Designers to come up with ideas that will feed these costumers with

paid by their parents.

what they need. Innovation and Fashion sale, it is not all about lowering prices, these kids are looking to put their money into something that will

The key point in order to stay on top of the game is to understand your

make them feel cool and outstanding from the crowd not to get the

customer (as in any successful business model) and to understand that teen

latest bargain that will just …cover them up. You have to understand

mentality equals embracing change. By change I am not talking about not

your market.

staying truthful to the brand image but to provide customers with innovative blunt ideas that will keep these teens hooked with the brand and the new collections on the floor pad.

original articl

Marks & Spencer Collabs With British Fashion Council To Promote Uk Talent. MARKS & SPENCER will partner with the British Fashion Council on a three-year campaign to promote home-grown talent. The Best of British initiative will include two clothing collections, with an emphasis on sustainability and local production. “The M&S brand is synonymous with all things British so we are delighted that they will be partnering with us to champion the very best of the UK’s manufacturing, textiles and practice,” said Natalie Massenet, chairman of the BFC. “We are charging them with taking a lead on positive fashion and change within our industry. Myself and the team are looking forward to developing this with them over the next three years.” The clothing collections – for both men and women – will comprise “luxurious capsule edits”, and will mark the first stage of the partnership, with plenty more to come throughout the three year collaboration. “We are proud to collaborate with the British Fashion Council and look forward to working alongside them on our exciting Best of British initiative,” said Marc Bolland, chief executive of M&S. “This is the start of an exciting journey to put more emphasis on British design and talent.” (Vogue UK)

[http://fashionsnoops360.com/marks-spencer-collabs-with-british-fashion-council-to-promote-uk-talent/ ACCESED ON accesed on 02/18/13]

FOCUS ON BUSINESS STRATEGY

Designer’s Green House for a Better Fashion Harvest.

Follow original article on FashionSnoops360.com Posted on Feb,2013. “Marks & Spencer Collabs With British Fashion Council to Promote UK Talent” Roger Artiga. MBA Fashion Business.

A lot has been done in the quest to find the creative

A similar approach was taken by Old Navy starting on 2012 with

source that will keep brands on top to their game; and seems

the Studio Spotlight Designer Collection (1), where the brand

that the trend that initiated with Karl Lagerfeld and his collabo-

took one of their in-house designers and made it a public figure.

ration with H&M in Fall 2004 (and that ended with arguments

The collections featured all the whistle and bells that a High-End

between the Designer and the Brand about the policies

Designer Collaboration would have and has gotten good

involved), has been numerously replicated by other retailers

reviews from customers giving the brand a trendy edge.

working with luxury houses.

From my perspective, this initiative is plausible as it can be a good way for the Brands to revamp their fashion sense but,

Mass Retailers are trying to hook their customers not only with

most importantly, to look forward.

designers but also with celebrities (Jennifer Lopez for Kohl’s, Sofia Vergara for Kmart, etc).

By encouraging new upcoming designers the brand is staying away of any snobbish behaviour or public arguments, lump

But what is the future of the collaborations? Can the Mass

sums and messy contracts and at the same time they are

Retailers cope with the snobbish Designers’ clauses; for how

feeding the apparel machine putting new designers on the

long people will be fooled believing they are wearing a Fendi or

map. There is a lot of creativity in the market but few com-

Maison Martin Margiela without paying the luxury brand prices?

panies are betting on the unknown talent, then what is left for the future.

M&S, who hasn’t built a reputation for being the most fashion forward European retailer, is now taking a different approach

What these companies are creating is a Green House for

to the collaboration trend by working with upcoming designers

Designers that confidently will harvest good sales if the retailers

from the British Fashion Council.

keep continuity and focus their efforts into educating their customers so they can appreciate the collections as something as valid as an “affordable” Prada.

Hopefully this won’t

be a one-season trial and the retailers will also be fair with the involved designers. In the end a well watered plat will provide a better crop to harvest.

(1) [http://www.examiner.com/article/let-the-sunshine-old-navy-s-studio-spotlight-designer-debut]

original articl

China Loses Competitive Edge As Garment Makers Opt For Cheaper Locales. By WGSN Newsteam, 17 January 2013 China is losing its competitive edge in low-cost manufacturing, with makers of everything from shirts and handbags to electronic components shifting production to lower-cost locales such as Southeast Asia. Total foreign direct investment flowing into China fell 3.7% in 2012 to $111.72bn, the Ministry of Commerce said Wednesday, in the first annual decline since the fallout from the global financial crisis in 2009. Economists say the drop in 2012 is also partly cyclical, driven by slowing overall growth in China and the prolonged debt crisis in Europe. But it also is the result of a long-term trend of rising wages and other costs that have made China less attractive, especially for basic manufacturing. By contrast, foreign direct investment into Thailand surged by about 63% in 2012, and Indonesia's was up 27% in the first nine months of last year. One country that could play a decisive role in speeding up the shift away from China is Japan. Japanese investment into China rose 16% from a year earlier, but worsening relations over a set of disputed East China Sea Islands could prompt Japanese firms to look elsewhere. In September, Japanese cars and businesses were ransacked by rioters in anti-Japan protests across China. Many Japanese companies are already looking for a second production base to hedge their China exposure. For example, while foreign investment into Vietnam declined by 15% in 2012, investment from Japan more than doubled. [http://www.wgsn.com/content/report/News/2013/Jan_Stories/Jan_17/News_Story_Jan_17281.html ACCESSED ON 02-18-2013]

FOCUS ON SOURCING

The Egg Basket is Changing.

Follow original article on WGSN. Posted on Jan,2013. “China Loses Competitive Edge as Garment Makers opt for Cheaper Locales” Roger Artiga. MBA Fashion Business.

Is China still the paradise of cheap, cheaper and cheapest

Think of spinning your yarn in Vietnam, making the fabric in

manufacturing as it was over the past 10 years? According to

Indonesia and manufacturing the garments in Myanmar.

local news in the People’s Republic of China, the country is still

Logistically sounds good but we all know that every single

willing and capable of being the world manufacturer for 10

step moving your goods from one country to another one, no

more years, but at the same time the Chinese companies

matter how smooth the legal procedure is; will either translate

started to adopt new strategies for good, better, best; making

into longer lead times or more work tracking where your

plans to provide not only quantity but quality.

goods are.

China is apparently getting ready to be competitive not only in

As I like to keep a positive mind when it comes to handling

manufacturing but also putting its own Chinese products to the

what is inevitable: we know that China is rising its manufactur-

world. As an example we can mention Hair who already has

ing cost, but also its quality; and ASEAN is there revamping

surpassed its rival Whirlpool as the world’s top refrigerator

themselves to become stronger though it will take some time

producer in terms of sales. (1)

until they can handle complicated fashion styles and quality standards that other regions already possess. Both manufac-

Of course all this sounds like good news, finally “made in

turing centers will have pros and cons, and in the end it is

china” is no longer be related to lack of quality, but… as we

matter of knowing what your product requirements are and

all know, there is no free lunch and it implies that the Chinese

place them accordingly depending on your company

manufacturing cost will also rise and digits already started to

strategy. Haven’t we all heard that it is not good to keep your

show that trend.

eggs in the same basket, then it’s about time to start sharing those eggs and start taking advantage of the benefits that

On the other hand we have the TPP (Trans Pacific Partnership)

each region has to offer.

(2) increasing their manufacturing capacity that already overtook Turkey and Bangladesh on 2010 and seems to keep its growing trend. The ASEAN or Association of South East Asian Nations believes that the partnership with all the involved nations will provide an open smooth transit among the area.

(1) http://www.innovationexcellence.com/blog/2013/02/17/will-china-2-0-out-innovate-your-company/ (2) WWD Magazine. February 15th, 2013. “Touting Southeast Asia’s Potential”

goes denim friendly

Roger Ar tiga International Business Strategy, Product Development and Design Expert MBA Fashion Business

Benchmarking on Top. Shop Reports of YM Graphic Tee Market in Shanghai. The Chinese market presents an important growth market with sizeable economic potential which makes western companies eager to open business in the land of the dragon. This section will compare different shops offering YM Graphic Teeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in Shanghai, Peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Republic of China. Within the companies selected the reader will find the perspective of an American company following the same strategy and product mix as they do in its domestic market [American Eagle Outfitters]; a long tradition American denim friendly brand that has been positioned worldwide and that tailors its strategy according to each region [Lee]; and three well positioned YM Domestic Chinese Brands [Me&City, Meters/Bonwe and Fairwhale Shake].

SHOP REPORTS

AMERICAN EAGLE OUTFITTERS West Nangjing Road Flagship store.

Visited on January 27th, 2013 at 7:00 p.m.

American Eagle Outfitters started operations in China through a franchisee agreement with Dickson Concepts Limited opening stores in Hong Kong, Beijing and Shanghai on 2011. Currently AEO possesses 6 stores in the mentioned cities and assuming the importance that Chinese market represents due to its economy growth; on 2013 the company has decided to change to a company-owned stores model putting an end to the franchisee agreement with Dickson Concepts Limited as reported on businesswire.com (1) The

store on West Nanjing Road is big in size and has enough presence along the busy shopping area.

Product is displayed on the windows following the same visual merchandising plan as in America which keeps the brand consistency and provides same customer experience as in any store in the USA. The graphic Tee’s are mainly displayed as a table program located at the venue. 70% of the styles can be found on the table, 20% are displayed on a hanger at the wall in proximity to the venue and 10% are displayed in racks close to the

Styles on table program

Styles on wall program

Styles on rack program

Main fabrication across styles

denim area (graphic hoodies instead of long sleve tee). Some interesting point to remark is that the whole graphic tee

Traditional AEO core fabric

100% Cotton Jersey

business compared to the business in America, doesn’t even represent one third of the collection. It seems like AEO in

Traditional AEO core fabric

100% Cotton Slub Jersey

China is prioritizing cut and sew and accessories over graphic business.

Polyside dye for Fake Neon Colors (3 in the mix)

60/40 Poly/Cotton

Higlights for C.O.O.

Promotions and Mark-downs for Chinese New Year were only found in the cut and sew area.

All graphic tees

were sold at regular price [RMB169, RMB 199, and RMB 239; Hoodies were retailed at 299]. No special packaging on labeling was displayed on the graphic tees.

Guatemala (increasing )

30%

Vietnam (usual C.O.O.)

65%

Haiti (New C.O.O. in the matrix)

Price:

Interesting fact about country

of origin is that AEO used to focus its production out of Vietnam but for this season the

production out of Guatemala seems to be increasing also adding a new country of origin to the matrix: Haiti.

Sizes

Fabric construction is narrowed to regular jersey and some slub jersey mostly in 100% cotton and CVC for fake neon colors. The graphic tee assortment did not feature any special wash or any innovative printing or embroidery techniques

RMB 169 - 299

No Mark Downs for Graphic Tee. XS : S : M : L : XL 3 :3 :3 :2 :1 Graphic Techniques

(which was AEO’s staple in the past).

Plastisol Loose Stitch Embro

As a conclusion, the AEO store is not tailoring its graphic tee mix to the Chinese market other than the fact of carrying

(1)

more quantity of smaller sizes (XS –S –M) as they want to deliver same experience as if shopping in any AEO store in New

http://www.businesswire.com/news/home/2013020

York, therefore, the assortment found at Nanjing Road was not representative of the current collection in America and

4006641/en/American-Eagle-Outfitters-Assume-Ope

On-line. It is not clear whether AEO wants to push the graphic tee business at this location (e.g. displaying at the venue) or

ration-Existing-Stores

not (e.g. small product assortment, no promotion, simple styling/graphic techniques).

accessed on February

American Eagle C.O.O.

30% 4

65%

VIETNAM

GUATE

HAITI

1 RMB 169 :: XS-S-M-L-XL :: Length: 28” / Width: 20” :: Hot Pink 60/40 Poly/Cotton Faux Neon Jersey Poly Side Dye :: C.O.O.: Guatemala :: No Special Wash :: 1Color Plastisol Print :: Table Program 2 RMB 199 :: XS-S-M-L-XL :: Length: 28” / Width: 20” :: Lime Neon 60/40 Poly/Cotton Slub Jersey Faux Neon Poly Side Dye :: C.O.O.: Vietnam :: No Special Wash :: 3 Color Plastisol Print / Loose Stitching Embro. :: Table Program 3 RMB 199 :: XS-S-M-L-XL :: Length: 28” / Width: 20” :: Black :: 100 Cotton Jersey :: C.O.O.: Haiti :: No Special Wash :: 2 Color Plastisol Print / Flocking :: Hanger Wall Display 4 RMB 239 :: XS-S-M-L-XL :: Length: 28” / Width: 20” :: White 100 Cotton Slub Jersey :: C.O.O.: Vietnam :: No Special Wash :: 2 Color Plastisol Print :: Loose Stitching Embro. :: Table Program 5 RMB 299 :: XS-S-M-L-XL :: Length: 29” / Width: 21” :: Red 100 Cotton Jersey :: C.O.O.: Vietnam :: No Special Wash :: 3 Color Discharge Print :: Hanger on Rack

SHOP REPORTS

Lee Jeans Cloud 9 Mall, Zhongshang Park. American Brand with worldwide distribution belonging to the VF Group.

Visited on Feb 2nd, 2013 at 3:00 p.m.

This company has a regional strategy

adapting product mix and marketing strategies to China. Lee is well known by Chinese consumers since the launching of the brand in 1995 thanks to its popular marketing campaigns using Chinese spokespersons such as Eddie Peng. The store visited is located inside the Cloud 9 Mall, mid market commercial compound located in Zhongshan Park Shopping Area in Changning District, Shanghai, China. The store aims to merge customers into the LEE brand DNA by using edgy black display fixtures, mannequins and urban colors. All merchandise in the store was divided by men and women section where it was displayed as looks. Graphic tees for men could be found all across the menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s section complementing the looks, which can be a driver for multiple shops. Lee normally customizes its product according to the region; therefore, the graphic selection found featured embellishment that can be interpreted as added value for the Chinese consumer (lurex embroidery and flocking). T -shirts

retailed at two price points: RMB390 for simple prints and RMB490 for embellished styles with no mark down

Styles (displayed as look)

Styles on rack program

Main fabrication across styles

or events for Chinese New Year.

100% Cotton Slub Jersey

All graphic styles were available in different color ways according to the seasonal color palette: Gray, Red, Black,

C.O.O.

Blue, and White. Dark colors also presented vintage wash/potassium spray treatment (gray, blue and black only)

China Price:

The entire assortment was done in crew

100% Cotton Jersey

neck long sleeve bodies with finishing like neck tape and topstitching for

better quality.

RMB 390 - 490

No Mark Downs for Graphic Tee. Sizes

fabrication was 100% cotton jersey with 10% in cotton slub jersey both domestically produced in China.

100%

Dominant

XS : S : M : L : XL 2 :3 :3 :3 :1

Graphic Techniques

Discharge Pring Embroidery

No special package other than the brand hang tags were displayed on the garment.

Flocking

As a conclusion Leeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tee assortment was not focusing in quantity but in quality pushing the shopping experience into multiple shops in the store (looks). The brand is well positioned enough for customers to buy at regular price minimizing the mark downs (only available in selected denim styles but not on graphic tees).

Special Wash

Potassium Spray

RMB 490 :: XS-S-M-L-XL :: (L) Length: 26 3/4” / Width: 20 1/2” :: Red 100 Cotton Jersey :: C.O.O.: China :: No Special Wash :: 1Color Discharge Print / Lurex Embroidery

RMB 390 :: XS-S-M-L-XL :: (L) Length: 26 3/4” / Width: 20 1/2” :: Blue 100 Cotton Jersey:: C.O.O.: China :: Potassium Spray :: 2 Color Discharge Print

RMB 390 :: XS-S-M-L-XL :: (L) Length: 26 3/4” / Width: 20 1/2” :: Heather 100 Cotton Jersey :: C.O.O.: China :: No Special Wash :: 1 Color Discharge Print

RMB 390 :: XS-S-M-L-XL :: (L) Length: 26 3/4” / Width: 20 1/2” :: Black 100 Cotton Jersey :: C.O.O.: China :: Potassium Spray :: 1 Color Flocking

SHOP REPORTS

Meters/Bonwe East Nangjing Road Flagship store.

Visited on Feb 3rd, 2013 at 2:00 p.m.

Meters/Bonwe, founded in 1995, is considered the first domestic Sportswear brand in Chinese Market, with presence in near 3000 stores across China.

The brand carries

products for young men and women targeting 16-25 years old. It’s well known for its colorful, vibrant, trendy styles tailored for the Chinese consumer. The flagship

store visited is located in a 5 story building in the shopping area of Nangjing Road, making it visible from different points in the crowded area.

Floors are divided

by category with men’s casual section located on the third floor with mannequins and signage driving the customers from the lower levels up. The graphic

selection at Meters/Bonwe is very diverse and it’s sold under different brands: Tagline, Tagline Night and M-Tee. By looking at the graphic tee assortment we

can spot out domestic trends such as: •

Young Male Chinese likes embellished styles (Tagline Night featuring caviar beads and machine sequin embroidery always in either black or white)

•

Young Male Chinese consumers are attracted by cartoons. (TM featuring raglan sleeve and short sleeve tees in vibrant colors and licensed cartoons that Chinese can feel identified with)

•

Special tees sold better than regular American style designs.

The entire assortment was consistently produced in China using 100% cotton with no special wash. The color palette for the season can vary from muted colors to bright hues with 90% of the bodies in crew neck and 10% in V neck, either in long or short sleeve. Product here retailed

at RMB 119 (Tagline), RMB139 (TM), and RMB 159 (Tagline Night), all styles featuring topstitching, neck tape covering, special brand labels and brand

patches on the sweep hem. All graphic tees had

hangtags either on printed PVC or cardboard with UV coating and dye cut finishing.

The product was displayed at table programs, racks and mixed with other products for a complete look. There was no

promotion or markdown price for the men’s floor; all sales happen on the 5th floor where the diverse assortment can be purchased at the psychological

price of RMB 99 when purchasing one item. 2 items get 20% discount and 3 items get 30% discount. A good

conclusion after visiting this store is the experience of how a Chinese brand can stay on top in its domestic brand; Meters/Bonwe has a clear segmentation inside

the brand that drives different looks for different life styles. The price point is very competitive yet the brand is not sacrificing quality or cutting out all the trims and finishing. This store was totally crowded at the moment of the visit and people were going out of the store with shopping bags, definitely this is not a window shopping destination for the Chinese young consumer but a key location to replenish his/her wardrobe.

Styles on table program

Styles on wall program

Styles on rack program

Main fabrication across styles

100% Cotton Jersey

C.O.O. China

100%

Price:

RMB 119-159 RMB 99

Mark Down Price 2 ITEMS

EXTRA 20%

3 ITEMS

EXTRA 30%

Sizes

XS : S : M : L : XL 3 :3 :3 :2 :1

Graphic Techniques

Iron Pressed Puff Print Waterbase Print Discharge Print Machine Sequin with inside Interfacing

1 RMB 159 :: XS-S-M-L-XL :: (L) Length: 26” / Width: 19 1/2” :: White 100 Cotton Jersey :: C.O.O.: China :: No Special Wash :: Machine Sequin :: Hanger Program 2 RMB 139 :: XS-S-M-L-XL :: (L) Length: 26” / Width: 19 1/2” :: Black 100 Cotton Jersey :: C.O.O.: China :: No Special Wash :: Silver Foil :: Table Program 3 RMB 119 :: XS-S-M-L-XL :: (L) Length: 26” / Width: 19 1/2” :: Cyan 100 Cotton Jersey :: C.O.O.: China :: No Special Wash :: 3 Color Iron Pressed Puff Print :: Hanger Wall Display 4 RMB 119 :: XS-S-M-L-XL :: (L) Length: 26” / Width: 19 1/2” :: White 100 Cotton Jersey :: C.O.O.: China :: No Special Wash :: 2 Color Waterbase Print :: Table Program

SHOP REPORTS

Me&City East Nangjing Road Flagship store.

Visited on Feb 3rd, 2013 at 4:30 p.m.

Newest brand under the Meters/Bonwe group, claiming to have the perfect Asian human database to achieve the perfect fit for the Asian proportions with the perfect cut. ME & CITY Nanjing Road store in Shanghai is a one-stop fashion shop offering a wide selection of men's wear and women's wear at a five-story building. Product ranges from office wear to casual wear. Products are made domestically in China by an in-house team comprising Chinese and western designers. Similar store

layout as its brand sister Meters/Bonwe where the floors are divided by category with men’s

casual section located on the third floor with mannequins and signage driving the customers from the lower levels up. The graphic selection is sold under the same brand Me&City featuring different collection hang-tag call outs

Styles at table program

to create awareness (e.g. spring arrival and special technique garment)

Styles on rack program

Main fabrication across styles

The entire assortment was produced domestically in 100% cotton in plain colors and real heather yarn. The color palette for the season was less diverse as Meters/Bonwe including 10 ground colors. Artworks were offered in different colorways for different tastes.

Potassium wash was offered as “special technique”

hang-tag call out in selected styles only.

100% Cotton Slub Jersey 100% Cotton Melange Jersey

C.O.O. China Price: Sale Price

100% RMB 179 - 199 - 249 RMB 99

Product here retailed at RMB 179 (solid print styles), RMB199 (embellished styles), and RMB 249 (embroidery

2 ITEMS

EXTRA 20%

and patches), all styles featuring topstitching and neck tape covering. All graphic tees had cardboard brand

3 ITEMS

EXTRA 30%

hang tags with UV coating and dye cut finishing plus additional collection call-out hang tags. The product was displayed at table programs, racks and mixed with other products for a complete look. Same as at the Meters/Bonwe Shop all sales happen on the 5th floor where the diverse assortment can be purchased at the psychological price of RMB99 when purchasing one item. 2 items get 20% discount and 3 items get 30% discount.

Sizes

XS : S : M : L : XL 3 :3 :3 :2 :1

Graphic Techniques

Discharge Pring Waterbase Caviar Beads Lurex Embroidery Rhinestones Water Glitter

This store was very crowded at the time of the visit and same as in the sister brand, shoppers were carrying bags full of merchandise.

Metallic Ink

RMB 249 :: XS-S-M-L-XL :: (L) Length: 26” / Width: 19 1/2” :: Salmon 100Cotton Jersey :: C.O.O.: China :: No Special Wash :: 2 Color Discharge Print / Rhinestones

RMB 199 :: XS-S-M-L-XL :: (L) Length: 26” / Width: 19 1/2” :: Heather 100 Cotton Jersey :: C.O.O.: China :: No Special Wash :: 4 Color Discharge Print

RMB 179 :: XS-S-M-L-XL :: (L) Length: 26” / Width: 19 1/2” :: Lilac 100 Cotton Jersey :: C.O.O.: China :: No Special Wash :: 1 Color Discharge Print

SHOP REPORTS

Mark Ed Faye Jeans Cloud 9 Mall, Zhongshang Park.

Visited on Feb 2nd, 2013 at 4:30 p.m.

Chinese brand founded in 2001 belonging to the Mark Ed Faye Group focusing on urban youth (20-35yo). The group strongly believes in market segmentation within its five brands: Mark Fairwhale Gentlemen (formal men’s wear), Mark Ed Faye Jeans for men, Fairwhale Creative City for women, Shake casual for men and women, and the concept stores M Idea Forever, and MF Art+. The

store visited is located inside the Cloud 9 Mall, mid market commercial compound located in

Zhongshan Park Shopping Area in Changning District, Shanghai. The store décor aims to be casual and preppy. The entire graphic tee assortment was

displayed as looks with other garments.

A small range at

the venue was displayed as a table program. Styles at table program

Silhouettes varied from crew neck (most dominant) to v-neck, either in short sleeves or long

Styles on rack program

sleeves featuring decorative finishing such as decorative contrasting chain stitching on the sides;

Main fabrication across styles

shoulder and sweep hem 2N stitching; and decorative neck tape covering. All styles bearing a

C.O.O.

vintage sewn square label for branding on the wearer’s left side.

China Price:

Graphics were varsity inspired with no hand-feel print (discharge) and flocking, visually following the American lifestyle brands.

Fabrication was entirely on 100% cotton slub.

retailed at RMB199 for short sleeve and RMB 229 for long sleeve with no mark

down or promotion for Chinese New Year.

100% RMB 199 - 229

No Mark Downs for Graphic Tee. Sizes

These garments

100% Cotton Slub Jersey

XS : S : M : L : XL 2 :3 :3 :3 :1

Graphic Techniques

Discharge Print Waterbase

The whole product direction looked more mature than the other shops visited therefore the brand utilizes fancy humorous hangtags to draw customer’s attention.

Flocking

RMB 199 :: XS-S-M-L-XL :: (L) Length: 21 3/4” / Width: 19 1/2 ” :: White 100 Cotton Slub Jersey :: C.O.O.: China :: No Special Wash :: 2 Color Waterbase Print

RMB 229 :: XS-S-M-L-XL :: (L) Length: 21 3/4” / Width: 19 1/2 ” :: Gray 100% Cotton Slub Jersey:: C.O.O.: China :: No Special Wash :: 3 Color Discharge Print

goes denim friendly

Roger Ar tiga International Business Strategy, Product Development and Design Expert MBA Fashion Business

Money Talks. Price Strategy Review for Scotch & Soda On-Line Store. Category: Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Shirts.

SCOTCH & SODA MEN’S SHIRTS PRICE STRATEGY On-line store in Canada. Accessed on Feb,13.

STYLES (UNITS)

European denim lifestyle Apparel Company founded in 1985 in the Netherlands. Currently the brand portfolio holds: Scotch & Soda for men, Maison Scotch for women,

core vintage basics fashionable silhouette 2 STYLES. (1) Core Items 10%

95.00

Scotch Shrunk for boys, Scotch R’belle for girls and Amsterdams Blauw covering denim. The company philosophy relies mainly on the product; with little advertisement and promotion being done. The graphic on the left represents the on-line presence price point of this retailer in North America. Scotch & Soda product staple is based on novelty washes and highly handcrafted look.

4 STYLES (2) 20%

109.00

Scotch & Soda Men’s Shirt Collection.

3 STYLES 15%

119.00

125.00

5 STYLES 25%

PRICES ($)

135.00

By looking at the price point and the product details, Scotch & Soda take the “HighLow” approach selling products at high prices most of the time but occasionally having significant sales (1). We can cluster the product mix offered in Good, Better and Best with a concentration on better and best items. 6 STYLES 30%

a. Core Items (GOOD): basic silhouettes with traditional wash (stone wash, potassium spray, etc.) Styles are offered in a range of 3-5 color ways and all styles for men’s shirts retail at the same price point of $95.00.

b. Vintage Basics (BETTER):

classic silhouettes featuring modern details and

finishing. The Vintage Basics are only offered in one color-way per style. Within this group we can spot out two price points: $109.00 and $119.00. This category represents 35% of the men’s shirt assortment.

c. Fashionable Silhouettes (BEST): representing 55% of the men’s shirt assortment. This group also presents two price points ($125 and $135). Garments on this group feature either innovative washes (Oil wash) or trendy silhouettes (bow tie shirts and shirt jackets). (1) http://www.consumerpsychologist.com/dist_Retailing.html accessed on February 24th, 2013.

55%

fashionable silhouette 35%

vintage basics 10%

core

Scotch & Soda is not interested in competing on prices but on innovation and quality. Out of an assortment of 20 shirts, 4 styles were marked down to a psychological price point of $49.99 from a regular price of $119.00. The main benefit about Scotch & Soda High-Low strategy towards service and quality is to keep the good brand positioning and exclusivity but in the other hand, the company has to keep a constant investment in development and innovation to keep the customers hooked; otherwise S&S might face the same problem as companies such as Abercrombie & Fitch whose collections keep on looking the same for the past 4 seasons, which eventually translates into customerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lack of interest for the product mix.

goes denim friendly

Roger Ar tiga International Business Strategy, Product Development and Design Expert MBA Fashion Business

Shopping at Home. Apparel is one of the fast growing segments for e-commerce. More and more customers are browsing stores on line to spot out new trends. What makes a winning e-commerce site. Review of â&#x20AC;&#x153;Diesel On Line Storeâ&#x20AC;?.

Criteria

Rank

SEO

Region/Language Selection

Platforms (ipad/iphone)

Apperarance

User Friendly

Product Mix

Product Description Prices Product Photography

8 10

Apparel is a fast growing e-commerce category; ranking number two in the

USA for 2013 and everything appears to be an on-going trend as the websites

Size and Measurements

Customer Support

Store Location

Communication/ Interactivity

Payment Process

Shipping / Handling

Refund policies

Overall Shopping Experience

url: http://store.diesel.com E-Commerce Review: Diesel On Line

8.1

are reaching maturity fixing all the flaws they experienced in the past. (1) In order to keep the competitive edge, apparel retailers have to keep improving the service provided as from an on-line-shopper standpoint is easier to switch stores on line as it would be to drive 15 minutes to change from one shop to another one when the shopping experience is not satisfactory. This section aims to provide radiography of the Diesel On-Line Store in the United States. For a better understanding, each aspect evaluated has been graded on a scale of 1-10 (1 being the lowest rank and the area that would represent bigger improvement opportunities).

(1) http://www.emarketer.com/newsroom/index.php/apparel-drives-retail-ecommerce-sales-growth/ accessed on Feb, 16th 2013.

Visibility on Search Engines (Excluding Ads Section) SEO (Search Engine Optimization) Ranking 9/10. Google – Yahoo - Bing When performing a query under “diesel store” the URL comes out as first position of the results. When performing a query under “jeans” the URL appears in fifth position on Google and sixth position on Yahoo and Bing. It is important for a winning e-commerce portal to consider alternative key words that are related to the product mix as it will expose the site to potential customers who might be looking for the product category though were not thinking specifically about the brand. Language and Country Selection. Ranking 5/10. The Venue allows customer to choose their shopping region regardless of their actual location broaden the spectrum for potential customers. E.g. a customer located in Shanghai, China can shop and have his/her parcels delivered in the U.S. No language selection was found. The site in the US is English only; despite being the official language, the site is excluding potential ethnic local customers as well as international shoppers (e.g. large Hispanic population in the US). General Appearance. Design. Ranking 6/10. The online store seems to be too crowded and with little or no white space to help the user make a clear difference between the diverse areas to browse. The color scheme is visually dirty. The background pattern selection are not cohesive among the sections and do not always blend with the site content. (E.g. kid’s section with girl’s pattern blending with hard-contrast black and red action buttons area) The product category laying over the patters make the site visually heavier without creating the “edgy” kid’s environment that the brand is aiming for. User friendly. Ranking 7/10. Action buttons are well positioned, and easy to find. Good usage of drop-down menus on roll over as well as product information on roll-over which avoids the annoying clicking when only looking for a quick reference of the product. Product description window on roll-over sometimes hides the product thumbnail. Good filtering system: by category/ by size / by color. Product view can be customized in either Slideshow or Catalogue mode. When browsing through the categories user might be redirected out of the shopping site. This needs improvement as a shopping site needs to keep the shopper within the site as much as possible. (E.g. Diesel collaboration programs: DIESEL-EDUN. Once user clicks to visit the collaboration is not easy to come back to the on-line store)

Product Mix. Ranking 10/10. Covering all sub-brands with a variety of products including New Arrivals and Sales. Site suggests related products that match the browsed item increasing the chances for multiple shops. Product Description. Ranking 8/10. Good detailed product description. Diesel is constantly innovating with special wash and high end fibers/fabric construction and communicates this information through the product description. The information provided is also complying with regional laws (e.g. lead content on products in the State of California). The Refund policies are also displayed next to the product information so customer is aware of the highlights of shopping for that category and its implications. Prices. 10/10. Prices donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t differ dramatically from the retail store. Product Photography. Ranking 10/10. High resolution product shots from various angles. Easy to navigate. Good mix of product shots as well as product on mannequin. Shop the Look photography well presented. Size and Measurements. Ranking 6/10. A measurement chart is provided but only refers to label size and its equivalent in different countries. Apparel Sized available for US / IT / FR / UK / JP. Undergarment sizes are available for US / IT/ UK/ FR. Footwear sizes are available for US / UK / JP Denim area is measured by waist circumference (inches and centimeters) but there is no sizing per style. Successful e-commerce sites provide customers with deeper size information and how to take those key measures in order to know which size is the suitable for each body type. (Thighs, length, chest, arm, etc) Childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wear sizes only state the Italian measurement with no equivalent for other countries. No product dimension is either found in the product section which makes the shopping experience a guessing game for the customer.

Customer Support. Ranking 6/10. “Contact-Us “section well defined and communication can be done through the phone (toll free number for land-lines) and email. Support is not stated whether is 24/7 or over working hours. Successful e-commerce sites normally include a chartroom or “talking to a representative” feature for product consultation. The Diesel On-line Store is missing this point. Store Locator. Ranking 8/10. The Online shop supports retail store visits by providing available store locations, therefore the search can only be done by city and the results display all the stores in the area. This function could be improved by adding a store locations based on postal code or GPS positioning in order to suggest the user the closest store to his/her location. Communication and Iteractivity. Ranking 6/10. Diesel is a lifestyle brand which is not fully exploiting the “community” element. Diesel on-line store allows posting with Social Medias (facebook, twitter, flickr and YouTube and pinterest) therefore there is no interaction other than posting. Customers cannot interact with the brand while posting on the communities. Sign-up for Newsletter section is a good way to keep customers updated about what’s new on the store and build a community. Payment Process. Ranking 10/10. The store accepts most accepted credit cards (Visa, Master Card and American Express), Pay Pal and cash on delivery. The payment process works through “Sign-up for an account” model which allows the brand to collect information that can be used for marketing campaigns or to get a better scope of the customer profile shopping at the on-line store. Shipping / Handling. Ranking 10/10. Delivery within 3-6 working days (standard. US$ 7.50 or free if over US$150) or 2-3 days (express US$19.00). Shipping through UPS in the USA. Refund Policies. Ranking 10/10. Return policy is clearly indicated when browsing the styles. Within 20 days after receiving of the parcel. Free return shipping either with UPS pick up or at drop-off location.

goes denim friendly

Roger Ar tiga International Business Strategy, Product Development and Design Expert MBA Fashion Business

Company Analysis Forever 21

Financial Highlights Fiscal Year End:

February

Revenue (2012):

3400.00 M

Revenue Growth (1 yr): 30.80% Employees (2012):

30,000

Employee Growth (1 yr): 10.20%

Forever 21 the trendy fashion retailer was founded in 1984 by Don Chang, Korean immigrant, in Los Angeles, CA, USA. By the end of the first year the retailer sales had risen from US$35K to US$700K which was the gambling capital for the expansion that let Forever XXI rank as 121 America’s Largest Private Company according to Forbes with its current company revenue of 3400M. Currently the retailer has presence in the United States, Austria, Belgium, Canada, China, Colombia, Mexico, France, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Ireland, Israel, Japan, Jordan, Bahrain, Saudi Arabia, Korea, Kuwait, Malaysia, Oman, the Philippines, Singapore, Spain, Thailand, the United Arab Emirates, and the United Kingdom.

Top Competitors: Charlotte Ruse, Inc. H&M Hennes & Mauritz Urban Outfitters, Inc.

Product Mix. Forever 21 is recognized by fast track affordable fashion covering a well rounded product mix. Forever 21: women’s and junior’s clothing, accessories, active wear, swimwear, lingerie, handbags, and shoes. For Love 21: accessories and beauty. Forever 21+: women’s and junior’s clothing in plus size. Love 21: women’s contemporary line also including maternity. Forever 21 Girls: girl’s clothing. 21 Men: casual men’s wear and denim.

Controversy. Despite the steady growth and loyal clientele, the retailer has been the center of different controversies mainly regarding Intellectual property infringing copyrights from other design houses like Diane von Furstenberg, Anna Sui, Gwen Stefani, Trovata, Alexander Wang and Foley + Corinna among others. There are countless fashion bloggers commenting about the “originality” in Forever 21. The brand has also faced legal suits regarding labor. Though the brand has also done cause marketing donating US$2M for the tsunami in Japan and they constantly donate money for Evangelization in developing countries (the company has a strong Christian foundation and had received attention in the media for the printing “John 3:16” which according to the Forever 21 headquarters is a demonstration of the owner’s Christian faith). The company also contributes financially to: Feed Project, HSUS (Humane Society US), the American Red Cross, Susan G Komen for the Cure, the Samburu Project, Big Brothers / Big Sisters, and American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA). From January,1st 2012 the company is also in compliance of the California Transparency in Supply Chain and had recently implemented a Supplier and Vendor Social Compliance and Ethical Sourcing Program.

Take away. Forever 21 model is very ambitious and has led the company to the same league as older traditional companies as H&M (founded in 1947), therefore the philosophy in Forever 21 resides in grasping opportunities, like its expansion plan taking the Mervyns locations after the bankruptcy; analysing untapped markets to expand its product mix (plus size for women and junior customer); rapidly re-aligning its product sourcing according to the industry needs/benefits (originally manufacturing in USA currently outsourcing from China, India, Pakistan, and Vietnam). The brand understands its customers, not only focusing on the latest fashion trends at the right price point but also providing its target with the interaction needed with the brand to keep them in the loop (blogs, Social Medias). For what we know about the company there is a lot of winning points in its trajectory and the faux pas done in the past can be fixed easily and seems the company is aware of this by implementing actions to remove the bad image; therefore these new rules should be enforced and communicated to the public more aggressively. Resources 1. http://biz.yahoo.com/ic/103/103504.html 2. http://investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/private/snapshot.asp?privcapId=4220077 3. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Forever_21 4. http://canada.forever21.com/Company/history.aspx 5. http://www.forbes.com/companies/forever-21/ 6. http://www.forbes.com/2009/04/29/billionaire-retail-forever21-korea-rich-09-wealth.html 7. http://jezebel.com/5742029/forever-21s-bizarre-knockoff-empire

STRENGHT FAST FASHION RESPONSE.

Forever 21 SWOT Analysis

No matter what the trend is, Forever 21 has it in store. The company sourcing and market research strategy has gotten the retailer on the top regarding fast market response. .

The L.A. / Korean apparel company has proven being successful in its business model, therefore the scenario might change as competition is getting harder. The chart on the right shows the strengths that the retailer can exploit in order to keep its fast growing trend worldwide; its areas of improvement as well as the market threats and opportunities.

LOW PRICES. The retailer is well known for affordable trendy items.

DIVERSE PRODUCT MIX. The retailer’s staple is still women’s fashion therefore it is building a solid ground in men’s apparel, accessories, beauty, and recently to children’s wear.

KEY WORLD WIDE LOCATIONS. The retailer invests in prime locations worldwide with big-store model for a one-stop-shop experience.

COMMUNITY SENSE. The retailer has understood how to interact with its target audience by building the community sense through blogs and social media, very important for this retailer’s target age group.

OPPORTUNITIES INTERNATIONAL MINDSET. Forever 21 is the result of a global vision. Asian strategies (Korea) and American Environment (USA) mixing east and west. This mindset can make the company very competitive internationally as it has insights from both markets.

TOP-OF-MIND BRAND POSITIONING. The brand is well known worldwide.

WEAKNESSES LACK OF IN-HOUSE INNOVATION. We cannot talk about Forever 21 without touching the bad reputation built through numerous counterfeits and lawsuits regarding Intellectual Property and Labor Laws. The retailer is known for its trendy product mix not as a result of a strong Creative Direction but by knocking off trendy designer’s ideas.

LOW PRODUCT QUALITY. Thought this aspect doesn’t seem to be a turn down for its customers as they are looking for fashion over quality.

RELATIONSHIP WITH SUPPLY CHAIN. The retailer sourcing strategy and principles are narrowing the Supply Matrix to small and mid size companies only; as big key vendors worldwide are losing interest about dealing with this retailer; making it lose also key partnership that can help build a stronger brand.

COLLABORATION vs. KNOCK OFF. There is always an opportunity for cleaning up a name. If the retailer motto is to offer affordable fashion, why not collaborate with designers in order to offer design / trend and also project a better brand image.

THREATS BAD REPUTATION. Which was also mentioned as a weakness, it is also a big threat for the brand and can impact its sales dramatically (e.g. all Wal-Mart scandals about children labor in the past)

IMPLEMENTING COMPLIANCES. Wal-Mart had its down turn as a result of a ferocious business model, but the company has reacted in order to regain its positioning by implementing compliances regarding labor, sourcing and sustainability. Forever 21 could benefit of following similar models making it transparent to the public.

COUNTERFEITS AND LAWSUITS.

RELATIONSHIP WITH BIG APPAREL SUPPLIERS.

Other competitors can adopt same strategy deriving into different retailers having the same product mix season by season which will develop in an aggressive a price focus competition.

By working in partnership with key fashion suppliers worldwide the retailer can count with the innovation and up-to-date market information in a clean/fair way.

The company is trendy but not innovative. Basing its product mix on what’s on the market makes the company legally vulnerable and loses its creative edge identity.

COMPETITORS ADOPTING SAME STRATEGY.

goes denim friendly

Roger Ar tiga International Business Strategy, Product Development and Design Expert MBA Fashion Business

Open Wardrobe. Range Plan for J.Crew Spring Summer 2014. Category: Denim.

Spring Summer 2014 by

MID LEVEL STORES 22 STYLES. SELECTED COLORWAYS FULL RANGE OF SIZES.

ALL STORES 11 STYLES IN LIMITED COLORWAYS AND KEY SELLING SIZES ONLY. 31 STYLES. FULL RANGE OF COLORWAYS AND SIZES.

TOP STORES & ON LINE

FASHION CORE ROMANTIC BRIGHT OMBRE PRINTED METALLIC

BL UE DA RK

MID LEVEL STORE

ARTSS1403

ARTSS1404

ARTSS1405

ARTSS1406

ARTSS1407

Dark/ Sun Faded White

Medium / White

Dark / Medium Sun Faded

Dark / Sun Faded Gray

ARTSS1402

Medium

DE D

ED IU

ARTSS1401

SELECTED COLORWAYS AS SHOWN. FULL RANGE OF SIZES.

ALL STORES

ARTSS1407 Medium/ Gray

ARTSS1405 Medium / Sun Faded

ARTSS1404 Dark / Sun Faded

LIMITED COLORWAYS. KEY SELLING SIZES ONLY.

TOP STORE / ON LINE FULL RANGE OF COLORWAYS AND SIZES. ARTSS1401

ARTSS1402

ARTSS1403

Fitted Jacket with Embellishment 12oz 95/5 Cotton/Spand Denim Dark / Medium $148.00

Cuffed Shorts 12oz 95/5 Cotton/Span Denim Dark / Medium/ Sun Faded Gray / White $68.88

Vintage Cuffed Capri 12oz 95/5 Cotton/Span Denim Medium / Sun Faded Gray / White $98.00

ARTSS1404

ARTSS1405

ARTSS1406

ARTSS1407

Belted Skinny Jeans 12oz 88/12 Cotton/Span Denim Dark / Medium Sun Faded / Gray $160.00

Relaxed Fit 12oz 95/5 Cotton/Span Denim Dark / Medium Sun Faded / Gray $125.00

Slim Fit Low Rise 12oz 95/5 Cotton/Span Denim Dark / Medium Sun Faded / Gray $125.00

Boyfriend Fit Cuffed Jeans 12oz 95/5 Cotton/Span Denim Dark / Medium Sun Faded / Gray $138.00

BL UE BA LT O C

MID LEVEL STORE

Cobalt Blue Dusty Turquoise Lt Vintage Rose Dessert Taupe

DE D

ARTSS1412

Sun Faded Blue White

ARTSS1411

Sun Faded White

ARTSS1410

Sun Faded White

ARTSS1408

SELECTED COLORWAYS AS SHOWN. FULL RANGE OF SIZES.

E TA G N VI HT

UP E TA SS ER T W

Cobalt Blue Dusty Turquoise Lt Vintage Rose Dessert Taupe

ARTSS1412

Sun Faded

ARTSS1408

LIMITED COLORWAYS. KEY SELLING SIZES ONLY.

ALL STORES

TOP STORE / ON LINE FULL RANGE OF COLORWAYS AND SIZES.

ARTSS1408

ARTSS1409

ARTSS1411

Stone Wash Belted Frontal Patch Pocket Belted Dress 8oz 100 Cotton Denim Sun Faded Blue Gray / White $128.00

Sleeve Less Tunic Sun Faded Blue 5oz 100 Cotton Denim Gray / White $118.00

Stone Wash Belted Plain Denim Printed Denim Skirt 5oz 100 Cotton Denim Sun Faded Blue / Gray / White $115.00

ARTSS1410 2 Pocket Draw Cord Skirt Sun Faded Blue 5oz 100 Cotton Denim Gray / White $88.00

ARTSS1412 Low Binding Garment Dye Draw Cord Shorts 8 oz 95/5 Cotton Span Denim Cobalt Blue / Dusty Turquoise Lt Vintage Rose / Dessert Taupe $79.50

N IO IL VE RM

MID LEVEL STORE

TU C A

ARTSS1417 Vermillion / Dusty Turquoise Cadmium / Lime Green Pale Blue / Baby Pink / White

ARTSS1415 Vermillion / Dusty Turquoise Cadmium / Lime Green Pale Blue / Baby Pink / White

DU S

ARTSS1413 Pale Blue / Baby Pink White

RQ UO IS

ALL COLOR WAYS. FULL RANGE OF SIZES.

HOT ITEM

ALL STORES

BL TE HI W

HOT ITEM

PI N

ARTSS1417 Vermillion / Dusty Turquoise Cadmium / Lime Green Pale Blue / Baby Pink / White

ARTSS1416 Vermillion / Dusty Turquoise Cadmium / Lime Green Pale Blue / Baby Pink / White

ARTSS1413 Pale Blue / Baby Pink White

ALL COLORWAYS. KEY SELLING SIZES ONLY.

TOP STORE / ON LINE FULL RANGE OF COLORWAYS AND SIZES. ARTSS1413 Oversize Button Short Jacket Yarn Dyed 12oz 95/5 Cotton Span Denim Pale Blue / Baby Pink / White $128.00

ARTSS1414 Embellished Vest Yarn Dyed 12oz 95/5 Cotton Span Denim Vermillion / Dusty Turquoise Pale Blue $98.00

ARTSS1417 5 pocket Skinny Jeans Yarn Dyed 12oz 88/12 Cotton Span Denim Vermillion / Dusty Turquoise Cadmium / Lime Green Pale Blue / Baby Pink / White $125.00

ARTSS1416 ARTSS1415 Raw Edge Beach Shorts Yarn Dyed 12oz 88/12 Cotton Span Denim Vermillion / Dusty Turquoise Cadmium / Lime Green Pale Blue / Baby Pink / White $79.50

Grunge Cuffed Capri Yarn Dyed 12oz 88/12 Cotton Span Denim Vermillion / Dusty Turquoise Cadmium / Lime Green Pale Blue / Baby Pink / White $98.00

HOT ITEM HOT ITEM

HOT ITEM

summer hues

LA C LI HT BR IG

MID LEVEL STORE

TU HT LI

ALL STORES

C A

ARTSS1422 Mid Blue - Indigo Blue Sund Faded Blue - Nautical Blue White - Pale Blue White - Baby Pink

ARTSS1420 Bright Lilac - Bright Turquoise Lime Green - Cadmium Pale Blue - Baby Pink

ARTSS1418 One Combo: Bright Lilac-Ocean Blue

RQ UO IS

ALL COLOR WAYS. FULL RANGE OF SIZES.

PA LE W

ARTSS1422 Mid Blue - Indigo Blue Sund Faded Blue - Nautical Blue White - Pale Blue White - Baby Pink

BL U

ALL COLORWAYS. KEY SELLING SIZES ONLY.

TOP STORE / ON LINE FULL RANGE OF COLORWAYS AND SIZES. ARTSS1418 Ombre Yarn Dyed + Dip Dyed Yarn Died 12oz 95/5 Cotton Span Denim One Combo: Bright Lilac-Ocean Blue $128.00

ARTSS1420 ARTSS1419 Cloud Wash Biker Skinny Jeans 12oz 88/12 Cotton Span Denim Bright Turquoise / Charcoal Black Nautical Blue/ $138.00

Embellished Grunghe Shorts 12oz 95/5 Cotton Span Denim Double Dip Dye Bright Lilac - Bright Turquoise Lime Green - Cadmium Pale Blue - Baby Pink $98.50

ARTSS1422 ARTSS1421 Belted Circular Skirt 8 oz 95/5 Cotton Span Denim Ever White Spray One Combo: Dark Denim $148.00

Raw Edge Cuffed Beach Shorts 12oz 95/5 Cotton Span Denim Dip Dye Mid Blue - Indigo Blue Sund Faded Blue - Nautical Blue White - Pale Blue White - Baby Pink $79.50

MID LEVEL STORE ALL COLOR WAYS. FULL RANGE OF SIZES. ARTSS1424

ARTSS1425

ALL STORES ALL COLORWAYS. KEY SELLING SIZES ONLY. ARTSS1425

ARTSS1426

TOP STORE / ON LINE FULL RANGE OF COLORWAYS AND SIZES.

ARTSS1424 Long Sleve Parisean Dress 8oz 100 Cotton Denim One combo only $125.00

ARTSS1423 Printed Romantic Romper 5oz 100 Cotton Denim One combo only $125.00

ARTSS1425 Floral Belted Shorts 5oz 95/5 Cotton Span Denim One combo only $125.00

ARTSS1429 Godet Belted Skirt 5oz 100 Cotton Denim One combo only $125.00

ARTSS1426

ARTSS1427

ARTSS1428

Bright Floral Relaxed Fit Jeans 10oz 88/12 Cotton Span Denim One combo only $168.00

5 Pocket Skinny Jeans 10oz 88/12 Cotton Span Denim One combo only $168.00

Belted Pleated Skinny Jeans 10oz 88/12 Cotton Span Denim One combo only $188.00

MID LEVEL STORE SELECTED COLOR WAYS. KEY SIZES ONLY. ARTSS1430

ARTSS1431

Pewter

Topaz Black

ALL STORES

EXCLUSIVE ITEM NOT AVAILABLE TO ALL STORES

TOP STORE / ON LINE FULL RANGE OF COLORWAYS AND SIZES.

ARTSS1430 Silver Fly-Away Vest 5oz 100 Cotton Silver Coated Denim One Combo: Pewter $168.00

ARTSS1431 Ombre Yarn Dyed + Dip Dyed 12oz 88/12 Cotton Span Coated Denim Topaz Black / Antique Bronze / Silver Mid Gray $225.00

goes denim friendly

Roger Ar tiga International Business Strategy, Product Development and Design Expert MBA Fashion Business

Out of the Blue. Printed denim is still trendy as spotted out in the Collections of Salvatore Ferragamo, Missoni and Dolce and Gabanna. Artiga Design picks this trend and mixes it with 2013 Color of the year: Emerald Green for a fresh spring look. Alternative colors: Light Mint Turquoise / Dusty Vintage Pink Combo.

Spring Summer Floral Denim Emerald Green Key color for the season. Floral print copyright by artigadesign 2013. Green Combo for 1st Delivery. (45% PO) Lt Mint Turquoise Combo for 2nd Delivery. (30 % PO) Dusty Vintage Pink Combo transitioning to Fall end of 2nd Delivery. (25% PO)

PANTONE 5523 U

PANTONE COOL GRAY 5U

PANTONE 3258 U

PANTONE 304 U

PANTONE 3272 U

PANTONE 324 U

WHITE

PANTONE 277 U

PANTONE 642 U

PANTONE 2975 U

PANTONE 7457 U

PANTONE 305 U

PANTONE 292 U

WHITE

PANTONE 1935 U

PANTONE 7426U

PANTONE 678 U

WHITE

PANTONE 439 U

PANTONE BLACK 7 U

PANTONE 7664 U

goes denim friendly

Roger Ar tiga International Business Strategy, Product Development and Design Expert MBA Fashion Business

Not Just Denim. Technical Data and Spec Sheet for Denim Friendly Top.

Style No. Description: Date Created: Date Modified: Season:

ARTSS14040 Cross Over V-Neck Top Feb, 14th 2013 Feb, 25th 2013 SS14

Fabric Construction: Fabric Content: Fabric Weight: Thread: SPI:

Drapey Jersey 60/40 cotton/rayon 130 grms / m2 DTM Ground 12-14

Responsible: Roger Artiga Contact: roger@artigadesign.com

FRONT

*Cut strip on cross grain and stretch when sewing to create rolled appearance. *** Interior raw edge of strip must be completely covered by stitching.

Set 1/4" exposed raw edge jersey strip behind bodice and secure with 1/8" 2N set 1/8" from bodice raw edge. Cut jersey on crossgrain and stretch when sewing to create roll to exterior. Insert clear elastic into stitching on interior.

BACK

Bottom Opening is RAW edge. 1/4" exposed single layer raw cut strip: *Cut strip on cross grain and stretch when sewing to create rolled appearance.* **Interior strip raw edge MUST extend 1/16" past stitchline for added security.**

SEE SPEC SHEET FOR LENGHT ACCORDING TO SIZES Front Empire Tie Construction.

BODY GROUND DRAPPEY JERSEY

PINK 2 ply clean finish tie. Insert 1/8” exposed raw edge strip in top/bttm sms. Topstitch 1/8” 2N edgestitch

BLUE

WHITE

BODICE / TIE CONSTRUCTION FRONT BODICE Overlock bodice inserting elastic. Lap Body over bodice with 1/8” 2N set 1/8” from body raw edge.

SIDE SEAM

Close join seam of raw edge jersey strip with overlock. Lap sleeve over strip with 1/8" 2N set 1/8" from sleeve raw edge.

BACK BODICE

Woven Elastic inserted in overlock on iterior

1/8" 2N topstitching 2 1/4" above sweephem

FRONT BODY

BACK BODY

Overlock bodice/body inserting elastic on interior. Lap band over bodice/body with 1/8” 2N set 1/8” from band raw edge

PAGE 1/2

Style No. Description: Date Created: Date Modified: Season:

ARTSS14040 Cross Over V-Neck Top Feb, 14th 2013 Feb, 25th 2013 SS14

Drapey Jersey 60/40 cotton/rayon 130 grms / m2

SIZE: XS : S : M : L

EMPIRE TIE (WOVEN FABRIC)

Description

BRAND LABEL CENTER BACK PANEL

1/2 “ DOWN

H BACK N STITC ECK CENTER OF BOTTOM

STRAIGHT NEEDLE 1/8” FROM EDGE DTM GROUND LABEL COLOR

Fabric Construction: Fabric Content: Fabric Weight:

SCREEN PRINTED SATIN LABEL BRAND / SIZE

PRINTED LABEL: COUNTRY OF ORIGIN. GAREMENT CONTENT.

XL NOT TO BE PRODUCED FOR CHINESE MARKET

BODY LENGTH: MID CROTCH CF Length fm HPS CB Length fm HPS Chest Width - 1" below Armhole Empire Seam Position from HPS thru Apex to center of stitch Empire Seam Position @ Side Seam to center of stitch Empire Seam Position from HPS @ CB to center of stitch Body Width @ Empire seam- RELAXED Body Width @Empire - Minimum Stretched (total) Empire Tie/ Band Height- cntr of stitch to center of stitch Apex Shirring Position from Side Seam Apex Shirring Finished Width Bottom Opening - Along Curve Shoulder Seam Forward from Fold @ Neck Shoulder Slope - Set-in Sleeve Across Shoulder - Seam to Seam Across Front Position from HPS Across Front Width - Seam to Seam Across Back Position from HPS Across Back Width - Seam to Seam Armhole Length - Straight Sleeve Length from Shoulder - Short Underarm Seam Length - Short Sleeve Opening - Short (along Bottom Edge) Neck Width - Edge to Edge Front Neck Drop- from HPS to Edge Back Neck Drop - from HPS to Edge Crossover Width @ CF- edge to edge Front Empire Tie Length - each side

Responsible: Roger Artiga Contact: roger@artigadesign.com

SAMPLING SIZE

Tol (-)

Tol (+)

[S]

-1/2 -1/2 -1/2 -1/4 -1/8 -1/4 -1/2 -0 -1/8 -1/4 -1/4 -1/2 -1/4 -1/4 -3/8 -0 -3/8 -0 -3/8 -3/8 -1/4 -1/4 -1/4 -3/8 -1/4 -1/8 -1/8 -1/2

1/2 1/2 1/2 1/4 1/8 1/4 1/2

-3/4 -3/4 -1 -5/8 -1/4 -5/8 -1 -2 0 -1/4 0 -1 0 0 -1/2 -1/4 -1/2 -1/4 -1/2 -1/2 -1/4 0 -3/8 -3/8 -3/8 -1/8 0 -1/2

24 1/4 24 1/4 13 10 1/2 4 10 10 1/2 38 1 1/2 2 1/2 1 1/4 21 1/4 1/4 12 3/4 4 1/2 10 3/4 4 1/2 11 3/4 6 1/2 5 5/8 5 8 1/2 8 1/4 1 1/4 3 1/4 20

3/4 3/4 1 5/8 1/4 5/8 1 3 0 1/4 0 1 0 0 1/2 1/4 1/2 1/4 1/2 1/2 1/4 0 3/8 3/8 3/8 1/8 0 1/2

1/8 1/4 1/4 1/2 1/4 1/4 3/8 0 3/8 0 3/8 3/8 1/4 1/4 1/4 3/8 1/4 1/8 1/8 1/2

PAGE 2/2

roger artiga international business strategy, product development and design expert mba fashion business

fashion buying and merchandising PORTFOLIO. MARCH, 2013