BRIDGE PAPERZINE ISSUE #03

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May 1st 2012

featuring robert holley edward kwon michael lau

www.bridgezine.com

ᅩ2,000

/ us $2.00

Artwork by_ In Dong Wook

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BRIDGE


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Ivy League Vision Tour

수 많은 아이비리그 투어가 있지만, 진짜 아이비리그를 보여주는 투어는 흔치 않습 니다.단지, 아이비리그를 투어하는 것이 아닌 아이비리그를 통해 비전을 투어 하는 모티베이션 여행의 그 첫번째, 아이비리그 비전 투어.

우리는, 와튼 스쿨<wharton school>에서 세계 석학 교수의 이코노믹 수업에 참석합니다. 전 세계 최고라 불리는 밥슨 칼리지<Babson College> 창업 과정을 언니 오빠들과 함께 참석합니다. 재학생 언니 오빠들과 꿈을 나누고 기숙사에서 함께 지내며 진짜 아이비리그를 체험합니다. 그리고 전 세계인이 모이는 타임스퀘어에서 한국인이라는 자부심을 가지고 그들에게 한국을 보여줍니다. 우리의 활동은 미국 유명 대학 및 카페 등에 배포되는 [락킹매거진]에 당당하게 실리게 됩니다. 또한, 글로벌 컴퍼니들이 모여 있는 뉴욕 월스트리트 내 금융기관을 견학하고 포스퀘어, 구글 등과 같은 세계 중심 회사를 둘러보기 도 합니다. 그리고 우리는 이제 새로운 꿈을 꿉니다. 세상을 리드하는 사람이 되기 위해!

IVY LEAGUE 수업참관

Wall Street 방문

1:1 리얼 멘토링 서비스

글로벌 기업 & [락킹코리아] 인턴십 certification 발행

한국홍보대사활동 ([락킹매거진] 내 기사)

전 일정 포토그래퍼 동행 - 일정 후 동영상, 포토앨범, 제공

주요방문대학 babson college princeton University yale University PENN Columbia University harvard University 큰 세상에서 한국을 알리고 아이비리그를 체험한 세상을 바꿀 미래의 주역 1기 참가자들

MIT

* 여행사 일정이 아닌 private service로 모든 호텔 및 식사 등이

1기 동영상을 확인하세요!!

미국을 체험할 수 있는 의미 있는 것으로만 제공됩니다. (유명 호텔, 미국 하우스 체험,맛집 방문 등) * 글로벌 리더스 라이프 체험 - 바비큐 파티, 리무진 탑승, 선상파티 등 글로벌 리더스 라이프 체험 ! * 본 투어는 영어실력이 일정 수준 이상인 학생들만 참여가 가능합니다. 학교만 둘러보는 투어가 아닌 아이비리그를 체험하는 시간으로 학생들의 터닝 포인트가 될 시간을 제공할 것을 약속 드립니다.

2인 이상 참석 시 10% 할인

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ART PEOPLE

the happY figure artist

CONTENTS

BY_ HA-NA NA / PHOTOGRAPHS BY_ MODERN WORKS / KOREAN CONTENT PROVIDED BY_ F.OUND MAGA ZINE (www.foundmag.co.kr)

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ART PEOPLE

a Young artist’s house ConstruCtion plans CONTENT PROVIDED BY_ A COMPANY / TRANSLATION BY_JUNG YOON CHOI / IMAGES BY_ IN DONG-WOOK

May 1st 2012

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Special Theme

roBert holleY BY_ SANG-AA PARK / TRANSLATION BY_ JUNG-YOON CHOI / PHOTOGRAPHS BY_ MIN-JUNG CHOI

BRIDGE pEoplE

eriC MClee

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BY_ CHI NGUYEN / PHOTOGRAPHS BY_DGK photography (dgkphotography.net)

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Special Theme

finding a seCond faMilY in south korea BY_ SANG-AA PARK / INTERVIEW BY_ SANG-AA PARK, MIN-JUNG CHOI / TRANSLATION BY_JUNG-YOON CHOI / PHOTOGRAPHS BY_ MIN-JUNG CHOI

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BRIDGE pEoplE

Chef edward kwon speaks up BY_ CHI NGUYEN / INTERVIEW BY_ JONATHAN CARFIELD / PHOTOGRAPHS BY_NAK-HYUNG JU

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He Said,She Said

sanchaE BIBImBap HISTORY BY_CHI NGUYEN WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS BY_TOM WALSH AND JEN MOELLER

lifestyle

gallerY hopping in jongno

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BY_ ANDREA SOHN / PHOTOGRAPHS BY_ HYUN-JIN YOO / CONTENT PROVIDED BY_ SEOULIST(www.seoulistmag.com)

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Taxi Fare

today's menu at oh Bak sa’s

These Days in south korea

BY_ CHI NGUYEN / PHOTOGRAPHS BY_ NAK-HYUNG JU

audition addiction

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BY_ JUNG-YOON CHOI

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travel

feel the Breeze of peaCe at iMjingak pYeonghwa-nuri park WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS BY_ MIN-JUNG CHOI / KOREAN EDIT_ SANG-AA PARK / TRANSLATION BY_JUNG-YOON CHOI

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column

Koreans Must Have More Children and soon too BY_ LYMAN MCLALLEN (mclallen. hufs@gmail.com)

38 RECOMMENDATION

paMpering fido

Hot New Gadgets: The Pros & Cons

WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS BY_MATT KELLEY

CONTENT PROVIDED BY_F.OUND MAGAZINE / TRANSLATION BY_JUNG-YOON CHOI

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hidden seoul

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CEO HANS LEE & SARAH BYON

PUBLISHER HANS LEE

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR SARAH BYON

EDITOR IN CHIEF SANG - AA PARK

49,000,000 EDITORIAL DIVISION

South Korea’s population in 2012

CONTENT DIRECTOR

KEEYEON WARREN (rm@roking.co.kr)

1,418,149

TRANSLATOR / WRITER

Number of expats

ASSISTANT

WRITER

CHI NGUYEN (chi@roking.co.kr)

EDITOR

SY KIM (sy@roking.co.kr) JUNG - YOON CHOI (jyc@roking.co.kr)

MIN - JUNG CHOI (choi@roking.co.kr) CONTRIBUTORS

EDITOR : LYMAN MCLALLEN (mclallen.hufs@gmail.com)

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WRITERS : TOM WALSH & JEN MOELLER (tomeatsjencooks.com) Matt Kelley (discoveringkorea.com) PHOTOS : MONT

Percentage of the South Korean population that can speak English

DESIGN DIVISION

0

ART DIRECTOR DESIGNER

Current number of domestic English magazines in South Korea

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Bridge Paperzine is the first of its kind

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Launched in April 2012, Bridge is not an English publication created solely for foreigners, but is one designed to engage both the expat community and the local English-speaking community. We are a biweekly publication that will feature the personalities, happenings, and cultural affairs that matter to our audience of diverse individuals, united by a common language. We cover important issues in South Korea these days, people, entertainment, travel, food, and lifestyle. Start reading Bridge if you haven’t, and keep reading if you already are. We're sure there's something in there to pique your interest.

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letter from bridge staff

Dear Bridge Readers,

Robert Holley and a family-like boarding house called HaeOreum. Eric McLee, CEO of Nexcite, also shared his story of rediscovering jeong with his biological parents after decades of being separated.

In honor of Children’s Day on May 5th and Parents’ Day on May 8th, Bridge has put together a special issue unified by the theme of Korean jeong. A word that embodies a deep sense of love and attachment, jeong has no direct English translation and its true meaning can really only be expressed in Korean.

In light of the holidays, we at Bridge hope that you all take the opportunity to spend more time with family, friends, and loved ones, and continue to develop that intangible jeong.

We took a look at how this expression plays a part of the lives of both Koreans and foreigners living in Korea. We talked to artist In Dong-wook about how it is expressed through his work, and explored the word in the homes of

And as always, thank you for your continued support!

- The Bridge Team -

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robert holley

On international marriage, naturalization, and becoming the progenitor of ‘Ha of Yeongdo’ Ha-il, or Robert Holley, may be the most famous foreigner on South Korean TV. Capturing the ears of Koreans with his loud Gyeongsangnam-do accent, he has been a popular television personality for nearly two decades. He welcomed the Bridge staff into his living room today and told us his story of becoming a naturalized citizen in South Korea.

BY_ SANG-AA PARK / TRANSLATION BY_JUNG-YOON CHOI / PHOTOGRAPHS BY_ MIN-JUNG CHOI

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The gap between Korean Ha-il and American Robert Holley Please tell us what it was like when you first visited South Korea. At first, everything was amazing. Three decades ago the rooftops were all in different colors. People wore rubber shoes. It was so different from what it is now. And there was a unique scent. It was not a likeable or dislikeable scent, but a unique one. But I can’t smell that scent anymore. Before you came to Korea, you had no plans to marry a Korean woman or be naturalized. International marriages were rare back then. How did you come to marry a Korean and live here?

I met my wife when I came to Korea for mission work. She lived next door. I never imagined that I would marry a Korean, but as I got to know her and saw her positive, bright side, eventually I made my mind up to marry her. International marriages were rare, but neither of our parents strongly opposed our union. Have you had any conflicts with your in-laws because of cultural differences? In Korea, the daughter-in-law has to do EVERYTHING. My wife thought that way, too. But my parents didn’t want that. They could do things themselves. And normally, motherin-laws in the U.S. are not too fond of their son-in-laws. I heard that it’s

because they feel like the son-in-law stole their daughter from them. But Korean mother-in-laws love their son-in-laws and give them a lot of affection. It was the same way for me. But initially my wife criticized me for not bowing politely to her father. In the U.S., you call your father-in-law by his first name and casually greet each other. I did the same thing here and was scolded by my wife, so I started to greet my father-in-law at the doorstep. It’s not a hard thing to do, but getting used to it was hard. So that was the first thing I educated my children on. Now my children know that they have to quickly greet their elders at the door when they pay a visit.

A foreigner with Gyeongsang-do accent becomes a real Korean For a long time, you were a familiar foreign face in Korea. Now you are a naturalized Korean citizen, and you even obtained a Korean name, Ha-il. At first I didn’t think about becoming naturalized, but I became friends with other foreign TV personalities like Ida Daussy and Lee Charm. They recommended that I become a naturalized citizen. I discussed this at length with my family. I also had a long conversation about it with my wife. And then, I finally made a decision. It must not have been easy to give up your original U.S. citizenship, though. I didn’t decide this on a whim. I had given it a lot of thought and put time into preparing the paperwork, so it was not too hard. But back then there were only seven cases of a U.S. citizen becoming a naturalized Korean, so I didn’t have many places to ask for advice. I found those who were naturalized and met many times with them. They said it was hard to submit the paperwork at the consulate. When they were giving up their U.S.

citizenship, they were told, “Now you have nothing to do with the U.S. You might not be able to visit here.” When I heard that, I got a little scared, but fortunately the process went smoothly for me. You not only became a naturalized citizen, but you were declared the progenitor of ‘Ha of Yeongdo (a place in Busan).’ What influenced you to make such a decision? I prepared for the naturalization for a long time, but becoming a progenitor was a sudden decision. To become naturalized I needed a Korean name. Well, I didn’t have a Korean name. My wife recommended the last name ‘Ha’ as it is the closest to my original last name, Holley. She recommended a first name, too. I thought it sounded awkward and country bumpkinish. I asked her why I should use that name and she said, “That’s my first love’s name.” I said, “Are you crazy? Why should I use that as my name?” And then just decided to call myself Ha-il. It means ‘the first descendent of Ha of Youngdo.’

Can you tell us some special characteristics of your family? I try not to create a hierarchical environment like the usual Korean family does. Typical Korean fathers are serious, bordering on scary. Rather than having a conversation with the children and sharing time with them, they focus more on their work and activities outside of the home. Then they come home and keep their faces expressionless. I think that is why children have a hard time getting close to their fathers. But I try to be friends with my children. I go on picnics with them, play ball with them, and share their worries. Weekdays I work, but on weekends I spend one hundred percent of my time with my family. I think Korean parents should put more effort into spending time with their children. Was it hard to raise multiracial children in South Korea? One of the reasons why my parents opposed the international marriage was because of the children. They worried that they would go through hard times because they wouldn’t

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have a sense of belonging. Also, they would look different from their parents. But thankfully, my children didn’t have such troubles. Can you share a word of advice to those who might be suffering because of their different appearance in Korean society? “You are a special person.” Normal children only get to experience one culture, but multi-racial children get to learn about two different countries as they grow up. And that is such a blessing. They should be proud of themselves. I teach my children exactly that. These words come from my experience. Believe that you are special and be proud of yourself. You have a lot of different job titles in South Korea. You are a TV personality, an international lawyer, a head director of a school, and a father. Which title comes first for you? My number one priority is doing my job as a good father. No matter what I do, that always comes first.

What is the hardest thing, then? Being a husband, no doubt! (laughs) Korean wives are very strong domestically. They lift heavy things and juggle everything, from childrearing to housework. To be a good husband to such a wife is not an easy thing. In the U.S., couples share the work. But Korean women are just way too strong. Jeong is a representative word that describes the Korean culture. What do you think jeong is? Love and kindness. And showing love. And finally, what would you like to say to Bridge readers, who are mostly expats? If you accept the culture as it is, you will be able to enjoy life here more. Feel the beauty of Korea.


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Finding a second family in South Korea

BY_ SANG-AA PARK / INTERVIEW BY_ SANG-AA PARK, MIN-JUNG CHOI / TRANSLATION BY_JUNG-YOON CHOI / PHOTOGRAPHS BY_ MIN-JUNG CHOI

HaeOreum Hasukjib is a private boarding house known for its hospitality. It not only provides food and lodging, but also a home. People who come to HaeOreum might differ in looks, culture and language, but they form an unconventional, yet loving, family. When we met the aunt-like landlady at HaeOreum, she had a shopping basket on her arm. It was dinner time and the smells of supper started to fill the alleyway.

I worried that you might have a hard time finding the place. A lot of people get lost because we are located in the alley. At the entrance of HaeOreum, we were greeted by a densely decorated wall of photos. The pictures were of the various visitors who had come to stay at HaeOreum over the course of over twenty years. The landlady told us the story behind each picture, as if she was reminiscing about her own family.

This was taken on kimchi-making day. Every year we choose a day and make kimchi together. It’s such an exhilarating activity. Everyone feels like part of a family. And these are postcards and letters sent by kids who went back to their home countries. I am so grateful for them.

Wow, you sure have a lot of photos. How long have you been running HaeOreum? It’s been more than two decades. Maybe twenty-two years? Back then, a boarding house that provided both food AND lodging was scarce, so the schools recommended HaeOreum to foreign students. I neither spoke nor understood any foreign languages, but I learned a lot over the years. When I was healthy, I accepted as many as two hundred guests. Now I am older, so I take in forty to fifty guests on average. HaeOreum must have gone through many changes throughout those years. I often reminisce about the past these days. Back in the day when there were no cell phones, people would call the main phone here. Then kids would come out to talk on the phone, and we would all sit down and chat together. Nowadays everybody is just fixed to his or her computer and cell phone. People talk less, and I feel sad about that.

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When we were living the analog age, we felt a deeper jeong. You often take in new residents here. How do you feel towards these ‘adopted’ family members? I consider everyone who comes to HaeOreum as part of my own family. I have felt this way since the beginning, so I want to look after them. Sometimes I sympathize with them. Because they are living in a foreign country, I want to make them feel at home. It must be a rewarding experience. Of course. A lot of guests here fell in love with Korean culture because of the good experiences they had. For example, I got a letter from one former guest who became a Korean language teacher. It makes me proud to see former guests grow affection for Korean culture. Among the many guests who come here, some become unforgettable friends, like one Japanese couple who stayed here for a long time.

They went back to Japan and had their first child, whom they brought here when they came back to visit. Later, they brought their second child as well. The two generations have come and visited me at HaeOreum. The couple still sends me letters and photos to check in on how I am doing. It must be hard to run such a place, though. I have had visitors from many different countries. I think Koreans have big hearts, but foreign guests value their privacy and personal time. Maybe sometimes they feel overwhelmed by others showing interest in them, but I still want to take good care of them and give them fond memories. It’s saddening sometimes, and nowadays I am a little passive towards my guests. But my heart remains enthusiastic. I hope the guests will be able to feel that.


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JAPAN

BRAZIL

Tomoyo Minoru

Andre Youn

CANADA

JAPAN

Darrin Kornelsen

Saito Minoru

Each day people from diverse backgrounds sit down together at a Korean-style dinner table. Their native languages might all be different, but here, they speak in only one language - Korean. It’s fun to be sitting here with all of you. Please introduce yourselves. Darrin Kornelsen - I’m from Canada. It’s my seventh year in Korea. For the first six years I taught at an elementary school. Now I am studying the Korean language at Sogang University’s Language Institute. Saito Minoru - Tomoyo and I are from Japan. Each time I visit Korea, I come to HaeOreum. Andre Youn - I am from Brazil. As you can tell from my appearance, my parents are both Korean. What brought you to Korea? Saito Minoru - My story is unique. I am a huge history fan and I wanted to study history textbooks written in Korean. Right now, I go back and forth between Korea and Japan

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for two to three months at a time. When I am in Japan, I teach Korean history. Andre Youn - I am an overseas Korean, but it’s my first time visiting Korea. We don’t speak Korean at home, so I’m here to learn the language. It’s embarrassing that I’m Korean, but can’t speak the language. It’s a unique living situation, sharing a space with strangers in a foreign country. How do you feel about living with such family? Darrin Kornelsen - At first it was hard to mingle with strangers, but once I got used to it, it was great! It was like finding a second family. I am not lonely anymore because I have a family here as well. Andre Youn - Here, there are my peers, but also people who are my parents’ age. It feels like living with a large family. I grew up in a Korean household, but it was in Brazil, so I still don’t know what Korean family life is like. I hope to slowly learn that here.

You get a sense of Korean jeong here. Can you tell me what you have experienced at HaeOreum? Darrin Kornelsen - I had never heard of the word jeong before. I think it is a uniquely Korean thing. I feel the landlady’s jeong when I talk to her. I think it’s a feeling that only kindhearted people can share. It’s amazing to feel that. Saito Minoru - One time I dined out at a barbeque place with the landlady. There, I realized that sharing a meal reestablishes jeong. That day I really felt her jeong. Do you have any advice for expats who are planning on staying at a hasukjip? Darrin Kornelsen - Before you make a decision, meet the landlady first and see if you get along. I think that’s important. Saito Minoru - Everyone who is living here is a representative of his or her country. People should be polite and be good influences on one another.


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Fit for the king, favoured by the farmer

Sanchae Bibimbap HISTORY BY_CHI NGUYEN WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS BY_TOM WALSH AND JEN MOELLER

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s h e s a id

I have no evidence for this, but my guess is that bibimbap evolved as the Korean version of pot luck. Probably sometime back in the Joseon dynasty some poor chef was asked to make a meal and simply tossed everything he had together with rice and hoped it would taste good. Fortunately for him and for us, one of the great things about Korea is that you generally have pretty nice things sitting in the back of your fridge, which means that you are more likely to get a tasty end result.

The first time I actually remember having bibimbap was on a plane—Korean Airlines. I remember it being delivered in a ceramic bowl with real cutlery—in coach. Does this really happen, I thought to myself? Even after squeezing a toothpaste tube of gochujang and mixing in a ketchup packet of sesame oil, there was still something happening that was very right. It actually tasted good. Was this the best bibimbap I’ve ever had? No. But it struck a cord because of the effort, the care, the details. It was clear Koreans took pride in this dish. So I couldn’t wait to try to what ajummas could churn out once I arrived.

After looking it up on Wikipedia, I know that the basic form of bibimbap is warm rice tossed with seasonal vegetables with a bit of sesame oil and Korean chilli paste, gochujang. At its heart, therefore, it’s a vegetarian dish, and the meat and raw or fried egg commonly used as additions are only fancy trimmings, not the core of the dish.

Kimchi is recognized as Korea’s national dish, but I would argue that bibimbap is a close second. It’s so simple in composition, yet it makes such a wild statement on your tongue. Every bite is different—the greens, the mushrooms, the textures. And the rice plays an amazing supporting role. The entire bowl is an adventure.

It was on this basis that Bridge Paperzine sent us off to try sanchae bibimbap at a few different places. We first tried it in a trendy bar in Hongdae where you got to assemble your own bibimbap, and pretend you were the chef. Then we went to one of Seoul’s better new Korean restaurants, Seoul Bistro, and tried their fancier and more expensive versions.

The best bibimbap I’ve had so far was in a little mom and pop shop next to Seoul station. I ordered it on a whim when I wasn’t really sure what I wanted to eat. I was not only surprised, but I couldn’t stop eating, and I think all good bibimbap should be that way. Sure, I’ve tried bibimbap since then. And yes, we went on a bibimbap quest in order to find the perfect bowl. One was completely unmemorable and lacked heart. The other was a good experiment in flavours, but better luck next time. The point is that this dish, while simple in concept, has so much to say. It can describe a mood or a person or a place. That is why I love it.

It’s apparent from our bibimbap food crawl that, in keeping with its origins as a humble and unpretentious dish, bibimbap is all about the freshness of the vegetables that are used. At its best, good vegetarian bibimbap makes you feel like you are getting healthier as you eat it, and because of that, it really doesn’t matter where you have it as long as the kitchen cares and makes it fresh for you. What’s more is that once you have tried a few, you can easily make a bowl of your favorite version of this delicious dish in your kitchen at home.

Follow the authors at

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A Hi s t o r y o f S a n c h a e B ibimb a p Sanchae bibimbap is a dish made to be eaten with the eyes. With its thinly julienned slices of carrots, zucchini, shiitake mushrooms, spinach, fernbrake, and bean sprouts neatly arranged above a fluffy bed of rice, all topped off with a sunny-side up egg and a spoonful of deep red pepper paste, bibimbap is almost too beautiful to eat. But wait, who are we kidding? It's too delicious not to dig into! Where did a dish this gorgeous, tasty, and nutritious originate from? Some say that its roots go back to the ancestral rite of mixing together numerous food offering leftovers in a bowl and eating it after the laborious ceremonial preparations. Others say that bibimbap traces back to peasants who would combine their banchan (side dishes) with their rice in the same bowl for the convenience of eating their meals out in the field during farming season. Still others say that during wartime, a lack of bowls and plates gave the people no choice but to mix everything together in one bowl and eat their meals that way. Whichever origin is actually true, what we do know for sure is that the 19th century cookbook <Siuijeonseo (시의전서)> is the first written reference to bibimbap, which was actually called bubuimbap (부븸밥) and goldongban (골동반) at the time. Starting in the Joseon dynasty, goldongban was often served to kings as a light meal. Today, there are many variations of bibimbap, but sanchae bibimbap, made with leafy greens and root vegetables picked from the mountains, is probably the healthiest version. Korean people say that seonsik is food that purifies one’s mind. By using only the freshest, most natural ingredients available for this dish, sanchae bibimbap is certainly a food that will tingle all your senses and leave you feeling happy and healthy from the inside out.

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T o d ay ' s M e n u at

Oh Bak Sa’s As previously introduced, taxi drivers are not merely expert navigators who are there to give you a lift in times of need. They also harbor secrets to the best local eats around town. Delicious, cheap, and most likely hidden in the back alleys of Seoul – these are true matjip (literally meaning “taste house”). The Bridge team is on a mission to taxi-hop around Seoul and get to know the people behind the wheel as well as find out what their favorite matjip are, so you too can get in on the secret. BY_ CHI NGUYEN / PHOTOGRAPHS BY_ NAK-HYUNG JU

D ri v er o f t h e d ay ● Private taxi driver since 1995 ●Tough on the outside, but a softie on the inside: “I love to buy new toys for my grandchildren.” ●Mr. Kim only speaks Korean, but after 17 years in the business, he has mastered body language communication with his foreign customers. ●“99% of the passengers who ‘forget their wallets’ will promise to pay me back later, but they never keep their word. Only one time did a passenger actually wire money back to me the next day. It’s good to know there is still one honest soul around.”

dri v er

Cheon Pyeong Yoon

●“So, Mr. Cheon, can you please take us to your favorite matjip?” At that, he kindly led us to…

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Mr. Cheon’s M at j i p Pi c k 오박사네 왕 돈까스

(Oh Bak Sa’s Donkkatseu House) 131-32 Seongbuk 2-dong Seongbuk-gu 02-3673-5730 Open 9am-12pm

Oh Bak Sa’s has been bustling for 17 years in the tranquil Seongbuk-dong in northern Seoul. It’s highly popular with chirpy ajeossis and ajummas, who come there for its cheap, large portions after an intense day of hiking the nearby Bukaksan. Oh Bak Sa’s also attracts foreigners and visitors from nearby Gilsangsa (which you ought to check out if you haven’t already!). And like Mr. Cheon, many other taxi drivers have also made this donkkatseu house their lunch pick over the years. Wang means king and implies grandeur, so true to its name, the portions served at Oh Bak Sa’s are probably bigger than your stomach can hold. The specialized menu is comprised of four different kinds of donkkatseu dishes: hamburger steak, fish cutlet, cheese donkkatseu and bihukkatseu. The donkkatseu here is delightfully thin and crispy, and so large that many customers will share. If you’re feeling indecisive, go for the Oh Bak Sa Set, which comes with smaller portions of hamburger steak, fish cutlet, a side of rice, seaweed soup, kimchi, and some green jalapeños. The jalapeños may seem unusual at first, but they’re the perfect complement to the greasy goodness of donkkatseu. Eating at Oh Bak Sa’s is like eating in a giant Legoland; everything there is oversized, from the donkkatseu to the plates and utensils to the befittingly large smiles of the ajummas who work there.

H o w t o ge t t h ere Take exit 6 from Hansung University Station. Catch bus 1111 or 2112 from Seongbuk Cultural Center Station (성북문화 원역) for a 5 minute bus ride down Seongbukro. Get off at Seongbuk Elementary School Station (성북초등학교역). Cross the street so that you are on Hyehwaro. With Geumnyeong Pharmacy on your left, walk straight for about 2 minutes and you will soon see Oh Bak Sa’s House on your left.

ol buk Sung ntry Scho e Elem

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Seoul Science High School

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Feel the Breeze of Peace at

Imjingak Pyeonghwa-Nuri Park The Korean War left a deep scar on this land. Though the war broke out decades ago, the painful legacy remains in both Koreas. This division is clear in the border region. However, at Imjingak Pyeonghwa-Nuri Park you won’t feel sadness and pain. Instead, there is a sense of hope. On a beautiful spring day in April, I visited Pyeonghwa-Nuri Park to feel the echoes of peace.

PROGRAMS

PLACES

At ‘Dolmuji for reunification prayers,’ one can carve out the message of peace on a slate. Also, one can purchase the pinwheel, a symbol of the park.

Cinema Pyeonghwa-Nuri – If you dream of enjoying your favorite movie outdoors, then Cinema PyeonghwaNuri is not to be missed. At an outdoor film festival held every year from May through July, various movies are shown on Fridays and Saturdays. The selected films are not only Korean, but also foreign films. Musical Hill – At Musical Hill, you can listen to beautiful music while enjoying the landscape. Each year various programs are offered from May to November, entertaining 25,000 music lovers at once.

Pyeonghwa - Nuri Park Information - Entrance : Free

Windy Hill – 3,000 colorful pinwheels spread out on the grass under the clear sky. One can’t quite imagine the desperation and sadness of division here. Rolling peacefully with the wind, it oozes a melody of peace.

Imjingak Tourist Information:031-953-4744 / http://peace.ggtour.or.kr (only in Korean)

‘The wind that moves thousands of pinwheels reflects our mind, wishing to be free and peaceful. The clear sun shines up in the sky, and the pinwheels, shining and carrying wind on their wings, teases a child’s heart.’ By Kin Eon-kyeong, installation artist, creator of pinwheels on the Windy Hill At Pyeonghwa-Nuri, it felt as if the pain of division was being cured, slowly but surely. The park has captured the pain and wounds of the past and sublimated them into a peaceful and harmonious space. The place, providing rest to many, tells us a story of hope.

WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS BY_ MIN-JUNG CHOI / KOREAN EDIT_ SANG-AA PARK / TRANSLATION BY_JUNG-YOON CHOI

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Hill occupied with sculptures I headed north of Seoul by bus. One hour later, I arrived at Imjingak Pyeonghwa-Nuri Park, located near the 38th parallel that divides North and South Korea. Various sculptures, shining peacefully under the sun, made perfect harmony with the landscape.

A bamboo giant I passed by Windy Hill, where thousands of pinwheels were continuously making chattering noises. Then I saw an elephantine sculpture, its imposing presence contrasting with the colorful pinwheels. These four bamboo giants, with their heads fixed on the North, stood three to eleven meters high. Created by artist Choi Pyeong-gon, the sculptures show Koreans’ hope and will for unification.

Sotdae-jip While walking in the park, I came across Sotdae-jip. Sotdae, a traditional Korean totem pole erected for auspicious events and celebrations, must have been built to congratulate in advance the nation’s future unification.

Café AnNyeong, a coffeehouse on the water Located next to Windy Hill, Café AnNyeong is a cozy place with a pond in front. By the pond stands Water-roport, a sculpture that greets the visitors. With various sculptures harmonized with nature and building, Café AnNyeong is more than just a coffee place; it is an art space.

A leap to become a multicultural space 100,000 square-meters wide, Pyeonghwa-Nuri Park is visited by 5 million domestic and international tourists annually. To cater to these visitors, various exhibitions, performances, and movie viewings are held year-round.

how to g e t t h e r e

By subway

Get on the Gyeong-ui line at Seoul Station -> Get off at Mun-san Station -> Get on a tourist train headed to Imjin River. Get off at Imjin river station. (tip: Train cars on Gyeong-ui line are available every 5- minutes. Make sure to check the time table and plan ahead. http://www.seoulmetro.co.kr/station/eng/trainschedule.action)

By bus

Get on #909 at Seoul Station -> Get off at Mun-san bus terminal -> transfer to #058. Get off at Imjin River station (tip: #909 runs every 10 minutes. The bus station is located in front of YTN building near Seoul Station.)

By car

At the freeway headed South, at Majeong intersection, go out towards Panmunjeom -> Make a U-turn at the cut-point and head into the parking lot.

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Pampering Fido More proof that Seoul is for dog eaters

lovers

WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS BY_MATT KELLEY

Coincidentally, it’s during the “dog days” of summer that some Koreans eat, well, dog. Called boknal, the three hottest days on the lunar calendar are for eating energy-preserving, hot soups like dog meat stew, bosintang. Of course, it’s only spring, and even so, Seoulites are increasingly more likely to pamper their pooch than to pickle him. Jayne C., a blogger who writes about raising her two Yorkies in suburban Seoul (http://blog.naver.com/ ddorsuni), says that even the generic term for Fido is evolving. She notes that the word aegyeon (pet), is giving way to banryeo dongmul (companion animal). Jayne welcomes this shift, but cautions that some of the same owners who send their puppies to kindergarten don’t even take them to the vet for basic vaccinations. Of course, puppies’ needs are many. Thankfully, a growing number of Gangnam businesses cater to the

“pet parent” who wants to truly spoil Spot. What follows is a half-day itinerary for you and (wo)man’s best friend.

Caffé Pawz

Irion

Dog-Eat-Dog World

Bow-WOW!

The day begins with a mocha latte for you and perhaps a pig’s ear for puppy at the spacious Caffé Pawz in Yeoksam-dong. Opened in 2010 by Choi Gang-hyuk, the Englishfriendly café/playpen/shop/hotel/ obedience school fills several pet needs all in one great space. Better yet, unlike some dog cafés located north of the river, Pawz doesn’t smell like a kennel. Sure, Gangnamers aren’t typically the best at chatting up strangers, but among fellow dog lovers, it’s hard to resist commenting on the Chihuahua that’s chasing the Great Pyrenees. Finally, since apartment life can make dogs cranky, Caffé Pawz is a great way to socialize your pet. (Gangnam-gu Yeoksam-dong 834-8)

Gangnam parents don’t bat an eye at spending millions of won to send their children to private after-school academies. So, why stop with human children? In Cheongdam-dong, pet parents can pay W60,000 per day for puppy kindergarten. Classes employ Everland animal academy émigrés with a UK-based curriculum that ensures the pets’ “mental stability and physical health.” In addition to schooling, Irion’s comprehensive service includes a vet clinic on the second floor and a beauty salon, café and hotel on the ground level. Book one of the deluxe rooms, and W200,000 per night buys you a web camera so you can spy on puppy from anywhere on the (wired) globe. (Gangnam-gu Cheongdamdong 97-19)

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Louisdog

Yangjaecheon

Dr. Pet

Rich Bitches

Run, Spot, Run!

Sick as a dog?

Enter this tiny boutique off Cheongdam-sageori, grab some champagne and wonder why they’re selling couture for tiny ballerinas and people who don’t wear pants. Actually, Louisdog features premium cashmere sweaters and their “Prima Ballerina Hand-Smocked” tutus—for dogs, of course! Perhaps your pooch speaks French and loves to travel? Get him the “J’aime Paris” pink cotton sleeveless onesie, complete with matching pillow! Beyond clothing there are “bling bling” collars, wheeled carriages and imported treats in flavors like bacon parmesan and apple cheddar. If Fido smells funky (perhaps after the bacon parmesan), give him a spritz of the Baby Glam parfum spray. Carry your purchase home in a bag that tells the world: “The Dog. The Style.” (Gangnam-gu Cheongdamdong 118-17, #B-103)

There are almost 50 off-leash dog parks in New York City, 8 in London, at least 6 in Singapore, and... wait for it... none in Seoul. Perhaps it's because 90% of the city's dogs fit into man-purses. Truth is, you can usually let Fido run free for a bit without too much protest, but if following rules is your thing, all Seoul parks—save Seoul Grand Park and Children's Grand Park— allow leashed-dogs. One of the city’s most popular dog-friendly zones, however, is Yangjaecheon. The 10+ kilometers of trails that run along both sides of the stream make for a picturesque stroll. Informally, a stretch between the Yeongdong 2 and 3 bridges is popular for those who want to give their pup some time to run and splash with off-leash abandon. (Gangnam-gu Dogok-dong)

Not to jinx you, but should anything unfortunate befall your dog during your half-day foray, rest assured that the team at Dr. Pet will make him better. Owned by Choi Jaehyeok, brother to owner of Mr. Caffé Pawz, Dr. Pet was one of the first Seoul animal clinics to offer MRI technology to detect brain, spine and joint diseases. The multi-level, state-of-the-art facility employs several specialists upstairs, and has a great selection of food, accessories, and grooming and boarding facilities downstairs. Dr. Choi has earned many fans from nonprofit animal welfare groups over the years for his generous support. Finally, even if you don’t need a vet, consider dropping by just to witness the antics of eccentric Gangnam mothers cradling their hairy surrogates. (Gangnam-gu Samseong-dong 353)

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Michael Lau

The Happy Figure Artist The figure artist from Hong Kong, Michael Lau, has given birth to a new form of art that takes street culture and translates it to figurines. Over the last ten years, Lau has established himself as a pioneer and a living legend. From Paris, to London, to Beijing, to LA, to Tokyo, he has not only been receiving global attention, but his sales have risen as his fans eagerly await the launch of his new characters. In talking with Michael, we discovered that he is not just passionate about his life and work, but that he is a pleasant and enjoyable person.

Looking at your figures, I can imagine you in your teens and twenties. A young man infatuated with street culture, hiphop style, listening to music and skateboarding. Am I right? What were you like back then? If I am right, what is the reason for your fascination with street culture? What attracted you to it? In my twenties, I was definitely inspired by street culture—hip-hop, skateboarding, graffiti. The lifestyle and language of that world was fascinating to me. I also have a lot of friends from that world. I like that

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they have their own attitude, and I think it’s cool that they are just passionate about what they like without caring about what “normal” people might say or think about them. I admire people who have guts like that. What did you think about the most in your teens and twenties? I didn't think that much. I just tried to do the things that I liked and enjoyed. In your late 20s, you were active as an artist, a cartoonist, and a designer at Window Display and


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Advertisement Company. Generally speaking, all of these occupations are in the field of art, but each work is very different from the others. Was this in an effort to discover the work that best suited you? It wasn’t necessarily about that. It was more about survival. I was looking for anything art-related that would support my living. I heard that you became a figure artist while writing the cartoon <Gardener>, and that you started

creating figures of the cartoon characters. What made you start doing this? The characters from my cartoon were all based on my friends at the time. I didn’t originally plan to turn them into figures, but I was a big fan of GI Joe action figures back then, and wanted to create my own. I was doing different exhibitions back then, and as I was planning for my showing at the Hong Kong Art Centre in 1999, I thought why not merge the characters in <Gardener> with my love of action figures? That’s how my 12” Gardener figures came to be!

Since then, you have continued to develop your career as a figure artist. I guess making figures suits you? When I launched the <Gardener> exhibition, it was a big deal in the street art world. It felt as if I had invented something, a new art form. It was fresh and well received, so I kept developing it and tried to see where I could go with this new medium. What was the response like to your first figures? Back then, figures were not as common as they are

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today. I believe there were some negative reviews. What made you continue to make figures in spite of the negativity? As I said, the response has been amazing. I never take negative comments too seriously. As an artist, I will continue to do what I love. That won’t change just because someone says something bad about my work. What is the most significant thing in your work (making the figures)? Without a doubt, the <Gardener> exhibition. The timing was perfect,

at the boom of the street culture era. And the series was totally fresh. I admire you for being able to work with the same subject, ‘Street Culture,’ for over 10 years. Was there a particular reason you stuck with it? This is the world I live in. It’s close to me. It’s real.


Doing this project for more than 10 years requires an endless string of ideas. Wasn’t it difficult? It seems you get inspirations from your friends. Is that right? And what are the other inspirations that influence your work? The hardest part is balancing my emotions with my physical needs. I want to continue to work because I’m passionate about what I create, but I also need to sleep and rest at times. Apart from my friends, I get inspiration from the little things in my every day life. It’s important to be observant. Michael Lau figures are gaining great popularity. What do you think is the reason behind this success? I think you should check with my fans on this. (laughs) I am guessing you probably went through some slumps as well. When and why? And how did you overcome those hardships? There was no specific period of time, but difficulties have come up from time to time. When those

times do arise, I take time out to reflect on the failing factors and try to do better next time. Life is about looking forward. You have collaborated with many big companies. How is a collaboration project different from individual work? First of all, I only choose collaborations that grant me freedom to create. I also need to make sure the company/people are fun to work with. In collaborations, I tend to put more effort into pleasing the client because in a way, it’s a service I’m providing. When I work on my own projects, I do whatever I want without worrying about what other people think. I know you did a collaboration with the French brand, Le Coq Sportif. I believe this was your first time working directly with a Korean label. Was there a reason for this? I think fate led me to that project. The agent who lined up the project for me had come to see my exhibition in Times Square, HK in 2010. I happened to be there and autographed some products from him that he had bought. He

mentioned he was from Korea and somehow his face stayed with me. Later on, he emailed me and invited me to visit Seoul for a potential project. It was my first time in Seoul, and I fell in love with the city, the museums and galleries in Samcheong-dong, and of course, the food! I love bibimbap. I met with the LCS team and they were nice people, so I thought, why not? What do you want people to think and feel through Michael Lau’s figure works? Smile crazily! My company name is Crazysmiles! In Korea, people often say that figures are toys and collecting them is childlike. Did you ever get comments like that from your parents or elders? What did you say to them? Men in essence are all kids, even when we are 80 years old. So it doesn't bother me if people say that collecting figures is childlike. Actually, if you think about the designer toy world, the designs and price points of some of these toys make it quite clear that they are not made for the children’s market. I would also like to think that my figures are each pieces of art and not just toys.

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In my opinion, figure artists have to have a childlike innocence, but as we get older it is very difficult to keep that innocence. What do you do to maintain your innocence? Furthermore, as a figure artist, what does it mean to get older? Is it different than getting older as a person? Childlike innocence is something I think you can have even when you are 80 years old. Getting older will definitely make you think more multi-dimensionally, but that doesn’t mean you can’t hold onto that childlike innocence when you create. Stay foolish. Looking at Michael Lau figures, I can imagine the world they come from. Perhaps people love your figures because they resemble us in the real world. Do you pay close attention to stories from around the world? What kind of stories are you into? Along with that, what is your dream world? What does it look like? I pay attention to all the interesting things that happen in life, not any stories in particular. Keeping a

sense of humor while observing things that happen around the world is important. My ideal world would be one that is totally free. How has being a figure artist influenced your life? Since my <Gardener> exhibition in 1999, my life has changed. People have cited me as “the godfather of urban vinyl,” and I am happy to have created something in this world that makes people smile. What would you like to tell the younger generation? Work crazy hard for what you love without worrying about the end result. What is your dream? I hope to one day open my own museum where I can house all my creations, paintings and figures.


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ART PEOPLE

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In Dong-wook

A young artist’s house construction plans

After meeting with In Dong-wook, I realized that he does not just draw houses; he builds them. The houses in his works are two-dimensional, like blueprints, but at the same time, they have a three-dimensional feel, as if people are living in them. On canvas, he erects each house with materials like marble, wood, brick and cement. He then adds a full moon, streetlights, strings of laundry blowing in the wind, and a scooter parked in front of the house to give it character and tell a warm story. Dong-wook is building a solid house, so that his story can live in it. His life is just like his artwork, built by relying on his own experience and imagination. CONTENT PROVIDED BY_ A COMPANY / TRANSLATION BY_JUNG YOON CHOI / IMAGES BY_ IN DONG-WOOK

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How would you describe yourself in one sentence? In Dong-wook is a curious person. Can you tell me the difference between the artist In Dong-wook and your day-to-day self? The artist In Dong-wook is the worst critic of himself. In Dongwook the person is just the guy next door. I like that, “guy next door.� Let's talk about your previous works. To name a few, the titles are <A Windy Day>, <Woman>, <Awakening>, and <Violent>. I get a sense that the titles reflect the story you want to tell. Do the titles refer to your personal stories? I leave clues in my work. I tell my story both directly and indirectly. I portray my wife, my daughter, my dream of being reborn as an artist, my hopes, and my love for my family. Sometimes I even portray the anger that I cannot express to anyone else. When my wife gave birth to our daughter, I worked on a piece titled <Mother>. Around the same time I also made <Woman> to comfort my frustrations. After I had a fight with my wife, I dubbed a piece <Violent>. Then what is the main theme you wish to express through your work? I want to record and save the stories of my beloved day-to-day life. It's a landscape of my life, and of us.

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I keep looking closely at the work because there are interesting little details, like the laundry blowing in the wind or the small scooter parked on the sidewalk. I feel like there might be some carefully hidden secrets. Is there any particular part in your work that you find more interesting? Are there any secrets or stories behind them that you can share? I allude to the story and contents in the title. Everything else is in clues throughout the drawings. Things that are more difficult to say are depicted through symbols and codes. So, I really enjoy the initial designing process. Working with various materials is interesting, and I also enjoy drawing as well. You use unique materials. In fact, you use real construction materials in your work. What inspired you to use those materials in your art? When I was an undergrad student, I did some part-time work at construction and demolition sites. I decided to use the skills I learned and materials I got acquainted with in my work. You are always working on a variety of things. What is the most important thing in the process? Trusting myself.


What does 'house' mean to you? Family. If you were to build a real house, what would it be? Maybe a tower or a castle. What sort of art do you plan to create down the road? In the early days I focused on visible images. I did repetitive work in those times. I had more interest in materials and tried to acquire a lot

of samples. That process wrapped up in 2011. This year, I want to create a piece that breaks down the form. Through such work I want to emphasize the original structure and its sculpture-like shape. I also definitely want to try creating some three-dimensional pieces. So far we've talked about your work. Let’s hear about your every day life. What brings you happiness, besides working? It's a great pleasure to come

home these days because of my daughter. She's adorable. I titled one of my artworks <My Daughter is My Love, My Wife is My Fate, and My Work is My Dream>. I am so happy to have a family.

Do you have upcoming exhibition plans? The first exhibition this year opens on April 17th at Hangaram Art Museum at the Seoul Arts Center. The second exhibition will be held on May 10th in Heyri, Paju.

Are you happy as an artist? The motto of my work is "Happiness, Happy Ending." There will be good times and bad times, but I won't let go of happiness. Yes, I am happy.

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bridge p e o p l e

eric mclee McLee. A half-humorous, half-serious cross between McDaniel and Lee. This is Eric’s way of showing pride for both his Korean and American roots. Faced with the financial hardships that plagued many Koreans prior to the nation’s modern economic development, Eric’s parents had to give him up for adoption at a very young age. Flash forward 22 years, and Eric is now a successful entrepreneur who returned to Seoul and found his biological family, rekindling relationships that have been on pause for over two decades.

B: You were adopted when you were only 4. Do you remember what that experience was like? E: My parents were having financial difficulties, and social welfare programs didn’t exist in Korea at the time, so my dad had no choice but to give me up to the church orphanage. It was a hard life to adjust to at 4. I became sick, malnourished and stressed during the six months I lived there. One day, “Inspector Gadget” [his lawyer] came and told me he was taking me to my new home. To ease my nervousness, he told me that we were just going on a trip to see my family. B: But by family, he meant your adopted family in Kansas City. How did you react to that? E: After we landed, I felt like I was in an alien world. The air smelled different, the people weren’t Korean, and the English language was foreign to me then. Extremely frightened, I began kicking and screaming, begging to go home. Even after I was handed over to my new family, I was still scared to the bone. My new older brother offered me candy, but not knowing what it was, I kicked him in the face. Finally, my adopted mother sat me down in the car and opened a picture album. She showed me my new house, my new family, and even my new pets. I relaxed and eventually fell asleep on her lap, feeling relieved and grateful. BY_ CHI NGUYEN / PHOTOGRAPHS BY_DGK photography (dgkphotography.net)

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B: What was it like growing up in the Bible Belt of America? Did you feel a sense of “homelessness” as a Korean adoptee growing up in a predominantly white population? E: Thankfully, I had a loving and supportive family, so even though we didn’t have much financially, I always felt like I had a home. However, I had other struggles growing up, like learning English as a second language. And since I had been malnourished in Korea, I was constantly sick in bed, living on medication and a strict diet. I also had to deal with a lot of racism and prejudice because there were so few minorities where I grew up. People thought I was dumb and weak, but I was determined to prove them wrong. I didn’t want to let all these influences turn me into a spiteful human being. Rather than call them negative forces, I call them constructive forces that helped me realize these are obstacles I can learn from.


B: Is there one person in your life who particularly helped you deal with these struggles and become the person you are today? E: Becoming the person I am today, was of course not through some sudden epiphany. I surrounded myself with great people. For instance, my mother, father, great aunt and brother supported me all my life. My mother gave me confidence and taught me morals. My father passed on to me his stubbornness and diligence. My great-aunt was my so-called “guardian angel.” And my brother gave me brotherhood. On top of that, my friends gave me a sense of belonging. B: Any luck finding love? E: If it weren’t for my first love, I would be a different person. But you wouldn’t guess. My first love was… baseball! It helped me deal with the daily grind of stress. Every time I stepped on the field or picked up a bat, I had no other care in the world but to win. Baseball taught me to be disciplined and dedicated, which helped me to achieve other goals in life such as: being class president of my high school class for two years at a predominately white school, getting my college degree, earning scholarships, playing baseball at the semi prolevel, and finding the puzzle pieces of my life that were once gone.

B: Sounds like you were pretty satisfied with your life in the States. Did you leave that behind and come to Korea because you wanted to find your birth parents? E: I wanted to come to Korea to explore and reconnect with my heritage. I wanted to find the other half of me, the half that existed before my adoption. So when I was 22, I quit my job and came here. I started the search for my biological parents through Holt America. In late October 2009, they found my father. I was ecstatic! However, 7 months later, they still couldn’t find my mother because of a lack of records. I was about to give up hope, when one day I received the shocking news that they had found her! I was excited to rebuild my relationships with both of them. B: Was reuniting with them how you imagined it to be? E: My whole life I had prepared for the emotional moment when I would meet my birth parents again, so I was calm as could be when it happened. They were both emotional and embarrassed, but I told them that I forgave them and understood that they gave me a second chance at life, not because they didn’t want me, but because they wanted me to have a better life than what they could provide. I believed that we all deserved a second chance to rebuild our relationships. They both remarried, so I’m now lucky enough to have three families who all love me.

B: Let’s talk about your career now. How was your company, Nexcite, founded and what do you guys do? E: Nexcite was founded over three years ago by Heath Bennett, who is also a Korean adoptee. He has since left Korea to start building Nexcite operations over in the States, but I still work with a very talented team. Nexcite is a PR and entertainment consulting company. Our work covers everything from local talent bookings to organizing concerts, showcases and events. Some of the artists we’ve been able to help bring to Seoul are big names like Boyz II Men and the Pussycat Dolls. B: That’s really cool! What are your future plans for Nexcite? E: We always want to keep moving forward as a company that stands for the people, the ideas, and the venues. We want to continue to be creative as event planners and promoters to establish a great environment for entertainment in Seoul. I believe that just like any entertainment company, the future is about expanding hubs in other markets. That is our aim within the next couple of years.

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B: Do you plan to go back to the States at some point? E: I miss my family in the States very much, so I plan on visiting them soon. I also need to go there to further develop Nexcite’s relations in New York, Chicago, Kansas City, Las Vegas, and Los Angeles. B: Any milestones you want to achieve in the near future? E: I want to continue doing what I am now. I do not plan on moving out of Seoul anytime soon. I always strive to keep building, working, and moving forward with Nexcite. I believe it’s every CEO’s dream in today’s global market to expand as far as the world can take you. Someday, I would love the luxury of travelling the world, and soak in different cultures like a sponge, but more importantly, I want to provide entertainment on a global scale. Also, I would love to own a baseball institute someday. I want to mentor Korean kids and teens so that they can one day become great athletes. B: Have you ever thought of starting something in the future to help other Korean adoptees? E: I would love to help Korean adoptees as much as possible, but I will never offer help to someone who doesn’t need or want it. If companies or adoptees approach me, I am more than willing to push them in the right direction or give them my opinion. However, I believe there are more qualified people and companies dedicated to helping Korean adoptees assimilate in Seoul or find whatever they need or want. In my opinion, it takes at least a team effort to push for change. I believe the Korean government should provide more assistance for these companies.

B: Other than finding your biological parents, what’s the best thing that’s happened to you since coming back to Korea? E: The #1 thing has been reestablishing the bond I had with my brother from the States. He is a Korean adoptee too, and has been in Seoul since last year to recover his roots as well. I have also been reconnecting with my aunt, uncle and cousins who live here. They have helped me so much in the assimilation process. I have also met some of my best friends and hyungs here who have given me brotherhood for a lifetime. In addition, playing baseball in Seoul! I never thought I’d play again after college and semi-pro ball. It helps me to relieve my stresses and reminisce of the glory days. B: Lastly, tell us something funny/interesting about yourself. E: Hmm, I’m completely ambidextrous. Also, the toe next to my big toe is longer by about a centimeter. Yes, it’s big, awkward, and maybe disgusting for some of you, but I heard it’s a sign of intelligence (laughs).


0 4 bridge p e o p l e

Chef Edward Kwon Speaks Up

Edward Kwon is a household name in Korea. He has built a successful career for himself with multiple claims to fame. He is not only a head chef, but also host of the TV show <Yes Chef>a guest on the drama <Banquet of the Gods>, and the author of several best-selling cookbooks. In just the past few years, he has opened Lab XXIV, The Spice, Eddie’s Café, The Mixed One, and plans to open another restaurant in the U.S. in the near future. But being in the public eye has made this celebrity chef all the more mysterious, as facts and made-up stories merge together to create Kwon’s public image. Consequently, Korea’s top celebrity chef has become a figure who sparks as much fascination as he does controversy. We sat down with Edward today at The Mixed One in Hannamdong to discuss how his free-spirited, rebellious personality has influenced his career thus far, and how he plans to make Korean food a globally recognized cuisine.

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BY_ CHI NGUYEN / INTERVIEW BY_ JONATHAN CARFIELD / PHOTOGRAPHS BY_NAK-HYUNG JU

What is your perception on cooking as a profession? People see a great chef as a technician, someone who simply measures ingredients and puts them together. Actually, cooking is an art form. It’s dynamic, creative and adventurous. Chefs are artists who are always trying to make something different. I applaud the young people who want to pursue a culinary career. It is difficult for them to discuss this at home. In public, their parents may pretend to support their culinary dreams, but at the end of the day, they are always told to become doctors or lawyers instead. I want to change that mindset. Tell me about an experience that particularly influenced your passion for cooking. I worked in Korea for 7 years before I left to go cook abroad. I had worked for five-star hotels like the Ritz Carlton so when I left Korea, I thought I knew everything about cooking and came to the States with a big ego. But I remember the first time I visited a Safeway in San Francisco, I found myself unable to identify 80% of the items in the produce section. I thought I knew everything, but at that moment I

had no idea what brussels sprouts even were. It made me realize I needed to humble myself and change my mindset. I was too egoistic before; I needed to do more, see more, and speak to more people. It was time to go back to square one. What were some valuable things that you learned about cooking while working in the U.S.? Before I worked in the States, I only knew how to pan-fry because most Korean foods are prepared that

way. But my coworkers showed me many other cooking methods, like how to braise or sous-vide. You had a successful career as head chef at the luxurious Burj Al Arab in the United Arab Emirates, but you decided to move back to Korea. Has the transition been hard for you? People have the impression that life in Korea is so great and that I make a lot of money. That isn’t the truth at all. My life is much harder here. It is not always easy to accept the traditions that Korean society imposes upon me because I just want to be natural. If I want to smoke on the street, then I will smoke. If I accidentally let a curse word slip, then it’s okay with me. It’s all about being real. What do you mean you aren’t making money? It seems like you have fancy restaurants and you’re always on television. I set aside some money to pay my staff and overhead, but otherwise almost all the revenue from my books and media properties is donated to Unicef.

It seems like you’re a pioneer and a rebel in this industry. What do you think of that? There is no rule on how you cook. You can be innovative. I learned to look at subjects from all different angles and find what the best way to approach it is. There are a lot of people who disagree with what I do and attack me personally, but if I don’t inspire this artistic movement in food, then who will? Someone has to be first.

What are your thoughts on taking food outside of Korea since you spent so much time cooking in other countries? Taking my cooking abroad is a goal and dream that I have, but for now, I have to build the infrastructure here in Korea. I can’t just leave what I have attempted to start here. When the time is right, then I will go to the States to open a restaurant. Most Asian foods, including Japanese, Chinese, Thai, and Vietnamese, have become globally recognized and franchised. Why has it taken so long for Korean food to go in the same direction? Koreans are good at doing business with other Koreans, but when they migrate outside of Korea, they need to learn to cater to their new community. Koreans are extremely fast learners, but they are slow to accept change. Also, globalization must start with a strong foundation. It is hard to globalize Korean food because unlike other ethnic foods, it is a cuisine with no standard recipes. For example, what is the standard for kimchi jjigae? There’s no standard recipe. If I put tuna

instead of pork, it’s still kimchi jjigae. My mother puts gochujang [red pepper paste] in hers, and it’s still kimchi jjigae. What is your recommendation for how this will change? I love my country and I think Korean food is the best, so I encourage Koreans to please taste other dishes as well. When you are traveling outside of Korea, don’t go searching for Korean food; try that country’s food instead. Be open and adventurous.

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Courtesy of

life style

Gallery Hopping in Jongno

갤러리현대 Gallery Hyundai http://www.galleryhyundai.com Not long after you turn right, you’ll stumble across Gallery Hyundai. One of the oldest galleries in the area, Gallery Hyundai first opened its doors in April 1970 and has now expanded into four separate venues—Main Space (본관), New Space (신관), 16 Bungee (16번지), and a separate gallery in Gangnam under the same name. The gallery prides itself for being one of the leading galleries of modern art (hyundai, or 현대, means “modern”). When coming from Anguk station, the first Gallery Hyundai building that will catch your eye is the Main Space (본관)—when you’re finished there, make sure you take your ticket stub to the New Space (신관) just down the street, where most featured exhibitions continue. Although Gallery Hyundai may feel too mainstream for some, it has undoubtedly been the most populated art space each time I visit.

BY_ ANDREA SOHN / PHOTOGRAPHS BY_ HYUN-JIN YOO / CONTENT PROVIDED BY_ SEOULIST(www.seoulistmag.com)

There is a strangely entertaining - and much too close to home -television commercial for the Korando Sport on the Korean airwaves these days. We are introduced to a young couple in the midst of a discussion regarding their weekend plans. “How about we go to a café, then a movie, and finish off with dinner?” the boyfriend suggests. “Or, better yet, we could start with a movie, then go to a café, and grab dinner?” We don’t get to hear his girlfriend’s response—but it could very well be because we’re too busy working out the few remaining permutations. (Could it be that dinner - movie - café is actually the winning combination?) Fortunately for us, Seoul is a city that offers infinitely more options than grilled meat, chick flicks, and tea lattes—that is, if you know where to look. A couple weeks ago, I deviated from my habitual wanderings through Insa-dong and found myself exploring the part of town just a little farther north. This particular corner of Jongno-gu (just south of Samcheong-dong Café Alley and a little west of Bukchon Hanok Village) is especially well-known for its numerous art centers and galleries, all of which boast a diverse collection of exhibitions throughout the year. Make sure you give yourself a couple of hours, a few spare bills for ticketed exhibitions or a cup of coffee, and a pair of decent shoes (you’ll be on your feet for most of the time!) in order to check out some of my favorites. You’ll want to start by taking exit 1 at Anguk station on line 3 and taking your third right, as if you were heading to the National Folk Museum of Korea (민속박물관).

아라리오 Arario Gallery http://www.ararioseoul.com/en/index.php There are multiple Arario galleries in Seoul and surrounding areas (i.e., Cheonan), as well as in various prominent cities of the world (e.g., Beijing, New York City). As is the case with most other Jongno area galleries, Arario showcases contemporary and modern art, but with the underlying goal of sharing Korean art with other parts of the world. While the gallery itself is not large in size, most exhibitions that come through Arario are featured on both the first and second floors, which are connected by an outdoor staircase near the main entrance (so don’t leave without visiting both floors).

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국제갤러리

갤러리조선

아트선재센터

Kukje Gallery

Gallery Chosun

Artsonje Center

https://www.kukjegallery.com

http://www.gallerychosun.com/index.html

http://artsonje.org/eng/

Kukje Gallery may be one of the more popular spots in the Jongno area, and the gallery’s tendency to present exhibitions introducing critically-acclaimed international artists renders it a “must-see”. During my most recent visit, the gallery was closed in preparation for its upcoming exhibitions— so make sure you time your visit accordingly (as is the case with any of the galleries in the area). Especially in light of the name of the gallery (kukje, or 국제, means “international”), it may not surprise you that many exhibitions here feature the works of international artists.

After making your rounds at Kukje Gallery, you’ll want to retrace your steps until you’re back in front of Hakgojae Gallery— take an immediate left (and stay on the left side of the street). Gallery Chosun is a relatively small gallery (located below ground) that tends to feature younger Korean contemporary artists. Make sure to visit the front desk, which is neatly tucked away behind the wall facing the foot of the stairs, in order to pick up a paper copy of the exhibition layout (so that you can match the unmarked works of art with both their titles and creators).

What distinguishes the Artsonje Center from its neighbors is the fact that it is an art center, as opposed to an art gallery, boasting the “here and now” (as is the center’s philosophy). The geometric architecture is certainly a sight of its own (and make sure to check out the views of the city from the top floor), but each floor of the Artsonje Center hosts its own feast for the senses. The first floor features an Indian restaurant (http://artsonje.org/asc/ eng/e_dal.asp), a café, and an art/book store. The second and third floors both house exhibition halls, while the basement is a performance space of sorts. There is, however, an entrance fee (1,500 won for students; 3,000 won for adults) and staff members on the exhibition floors waiting to check your ticket.

16번지

학고재

16 Bungee

Hakgojae Gallery

http://www.galleryhyundai.com/eng/index.asp?SiteNum=3

http://hakgojae.com/2009/eng/index.html

16 Bungee is a cozy three-floor gallery tucked away on a side street not far from Gallery Hyundai (take a right at Gallery On). The gallery itself is modest in every possible way (perhaps explaining why it proved to be my personal favorite), especially with its small size, its plain name (bungee, or 번지, is an address placeholder equivalent to “house number”; 16번지 is not only the name of the gallery, but also its address), and its off-the-main-streets location. 16 Bungee aims to showcase experimental and contemporary Korean art.

Once you’re back on the main street, you’ll notice that Hakgojae Gallery immediately stands out from its surrounding galleries, at the very least from a visual standpoint. The gallery itself resembles a traditionalstyle Korean house (hanok, or 한옥) infused with elements of Western style. But don’t be fooled into thinking that the gallery only showcases a seemingly older style of art; Hakgojae places great emphasis on its philosophy of “creating things new by mastering things ancient” and frequently showcases more modern exhibitions.

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You’ll find that most of the galleries in the area begin wrapping up for the day by sundown. If you’re hungry, head south towards Insa-dong for a bite to eat - or if a boost of caffeine sounds more like your cup of tea, head north towards Samcheong-dong Café Alley. Even strolling down the alleyway that is home to both the Artsonje Center and Arario (율곡로3길) on your way back to Anguk station will lead you to discover a variety of staple street foods and quaint storefronts. The next time you find yourself pondering that trifecta of café-dinner-movie, try mixing up your routine with some or all of these galleries. Bask in the silence of these spaces and curate your own visual experience as you wander through exhibitions, and linger - or not - over the richness of Jongno’s art offerings.


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audition addiction

Competition Fever Hits Korean TV

BY_ JUNG-YOON CHOI

TV. For example, <American Idol>, a U.S. singing competition TV show, was a mega hit both domestically and internationally. The show was a hit in South Korea as well. TV producers here soon caught on and started producing other reality competition shows. The most notable of them all is probably <Superstar K>, a singing competition program produced by cable channel tvN. The show created quite a buzz during its first season, and became a national hit during its second season. Viewer ratings topped those of major broadcast networks, and many contestants became overnight celebrities. Now, as the show prepares to air its fourth season, people are already talking as a fame-hungry lawmaker passed through the first round of auditions. A lot of native South Koreans might feel averse to the word competition, or gyeongjaeng. From cradle to grave, we Koreans live and breathe competition. In a small country where fifty million people share limited resources, competition has become an integral part of our lives. However, competition is not necessarily a bad thing. It gives you motivation, and pushes you to strive for excellence. And, as contestants are pushed to give the best within restricted time and space, competition draws out potential and creativity. It is pure drama within itself. That kind of excitement is why there are so many audition programs on TV these days. No matter what country you’re from, you’ve seen some sort of audition program on

bandwagon. There are now a total of thirteen reality competition programs airing in Korea, and more than half of them are singing competitions. Others include a culinary arts competition, dance competition, and even a Korean version of the popular <Project Runway>. Almost all of these shows have been successful. After each episode, Korean netizens teem internet discussion boards and Twitter feeds to talk about that day’s show. Not being a huge TV fan, I don’t tune in to any of these shows, but seeing the weekend news updates covering the various programs and their contestants is enough to make me grow tired of them without even watching. I do, however, wonder if it reaffirms the fact that we live in a competitive society, and that there is no escaping it.

<Superstar K> bluntly borrowed the format and style of <American Idol>. Judges make sharp-tongued remarks, sometimes bordering on crude. The show mocks misguided contestants while highlighting some contestants’ stories with dramatic effects. In each round, difficult missions are given out, and those who mess up leave the show in tears. The show even faced its share of controversy as booted contestants accused producers of viciously editing the clips to make people look bad. Nevertheless the show secured a number one position, hushing all the noise.

In the midst of my own pondering, I came across a video of a recent TV discussion on the issue. A panel of professionals, including several judges of audition shows, talked about the sudden surge of audition programs and their popularity.

With the success of <Superstar K>, also known by its Korean acronym syuseukeu (슈스크), other networks hopped on the

Kolleen Park, a judge on <Korea’s Got Talent> called auditions “a thrilling, exhilarating process, finding a diamond in rough.” She

“I welcome such programs, as they provide opportunity to the masses,” said Kim Tae-won, a famous musician who recently served as a judge in a singing competition. “We need to find people who really want to make music, not just be first place. It’s the process of finding the next Bob Dylan.”

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added, “If an audition program is constructed well, it should have a positive effect.” But some of the panel members argued that because of the nature of TV, those good intentions are downplayed, and the main focus becomes establishing harsh competition. “I want to point out that in these shows, rather than emphasize the audition process, we tend to focus more on who fails and who wins. I think that might be dangerous,” said Tak Hyun-min, a producer. “To get higher ratings, the producers tend to contrive drama. If there’s no drama, then there has to at least be a fight amongst the contestants,” said Shin Hae-cheol, a musician and judge. “You can’t create sincere art if you are caught up with ratings.” And it is true. A lot of the audition programs have turned into rating generators, focusing more on gossip than finding real artists. The contestants are often objectified as market goods, used and deserted after the show is over. But I don’t want to be too pessimistic. Like one of the panelists pointed out, once in a while, they do find raw talent. Busker Busker, a three-piece band that was runner-up in Season 3 of <Superstar K> recently put out a quality album that topped all the major charts. Busker Busker, who used to perform on the streets (hence the name), didn’t win the competition, but the TV exposure helped them land a deal with an

agency. “I am so glad to have our first album out. I didn’t expect it to be so popular,” said lead vocalist Jang Beom-jun in a press conference. “To have an album under our belt feels so different from performing on the streets.” People like Jang keep dreams alive for many others looking to achieve their own success. Competition is hard, and competing on national TV is even harder, but in South Korea, where many people are not left with many options in finding and pursuing their goals, such competitions might be the only way. As one Korean pop culture critic said, it reflects the sad façade of our society, where viewers turn to TV audition programs to dream for an hour. After reviewing some facts about audition programs, I’m almost inclined to check out a TV competition show. Perhaps <Superstar K> Season 4. As producers endure ongoing criticism, and viewers become increasingly wary of shows that merely exploit people for production value, some quality control must have been established by now.


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Lyman McLallen A professor in the English College of Hankuk University of Foreign Studies

Koreans Must Have

More Children and soon too

Enter Korea per capita GDP 2050 at Google, then go to the webpage BRIC - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia and scroll down until you reach a chart titled Gross Domestic Product per capita, which shows that thirty-eight years from now - in the year 2050 Korea will have a per capita income equal to today’s buying power of U.S.$90,294. (Yes, the average Korean is going to be rich!) Further down the page is a paragraph about why the Korean economy is doing so well, and another paragraph about the possibilities and potential of a United Korea. These predictions are based on a broad range of current conditions and trends in the world - and in Korea - and astute economists figure there’s a good chance this will all come true. Though the webpage doesn’t note it, Korea has invested wisely and vigorously for more than fifty years in educating its youngsters at primary and secondary schools that are among the world’s best. (At Google, type Elite Korean Schools, Forging Ivy League Skills - New York Times and read about two such high schools.) After school, Korean students attend private institutes where they get lessons in English, Science, Math, and other subjects. So it’s no wonder they consistently rank in the top two or three in math and science on international tests. (At Google, type World Education Rankings: which country does best and see for yourself.) Also, graduates from many of Korea’s universities

matriculate frequently to top professional and Ph.D. programs in the U.S. and around the world. Things seem bright for Korea, but the future, of course, isn’t set in stone.

encouraged to have children if they want to get ahead. An article published in the Korea JoongAng Daily on March 15, 2012, titled New solution for low birthrate, reports that government officials have serious concerns about Korea’s low birthrate – which is one of the lowest in the world – and the dire consequences this will wreak on the nation if it isn’t increased. In the last few years, the Korean government has been offering benefits to young married couples such as better housing for lower prices if they have three children, free university tuition for the third child, better opportunities for promotion at their jobs (all other things being the same), longer maternity leave, and more.

Type Korea to Become Most Aged Society in OECD in 2050 at Google and it will list an article published in The Korea Times on July 10, 2009, warning that if the birthrate in Korea doesn’t rise soon, the nation’s population in the next forty years will drop by almost seven million and possibly more. More startling, the article points out that if the Koreans can’t or won’t have more children, the nation will have one of the most aged populations on the planet by 2050, when two out of five Koreans will be over sixty-five. (There are other websites under this Google heading that post reports about Korea’s population woes.)

Despite the government’s incentives, the article reports that young married couples still aren’t having enough babies to stem the population decline. Though young couples in rural areas of the nation are starting to have more children, the rising birthrate in the cities – where the bulk of the population lives – is barely discernable. So the government is reconsidering its policies in solving this problem.

The Koreans who will bear the worst of this population catastrophe are now in their twenties and will be senior citizens by 2050. If they don’t start having more children soon, it will be too late for them in thirty years but they have time now to change their fate. All they have to do is become mothers and fathers. Most young Koreans, especially women, say they’d like to have large families but they’re reluctant to because they don’t feel they will be able to afford to have more than one child. Also, women who want careers in the professions and business, what with the prevailing attitudes – not just in Korea – but all over the world, don’t feel

of the richest countries on Earth. Today, the Koreans can truly afford to have more children like they never could have before. Indeed, few nations take care of and educate its future generations as splendidly as Korea does. POSTSCRIPT: A young mother holding her baby was riding on the not-so-crowded subway car yesterday afternoon. The baby couldn’t have been more than a few months old. Across the aisle sat a young woman snuggled in her boyfriend’s arm. He was carrying a couple of shopping bags on his other arm. The young woman couldn’t take her eyes off the baby, and as she looked at it with pure joy in her heart, she snuggled her boyfriend’s arm tighter, bringing him closer to her, then he started looking at the baby too. Every time a baby rides on the subway, women of all ages and even little girls (and some men) look at it. Young women especially like to look at babies, and talk to them, and tell their parents how precious and beautiful they are. At least that’s what I’ve noticed when I ride the subway in Seoul.

The Koreans have one of the oldest cultures on Earth because they have not just survived but overcome all the calamities that have befallen them. So it would be a shame if their population were to dwindle to nothing for no reason other than that young Koreans won’t have children because they’re afraid they can’t afford them – especially at a time when Korea is becoming one

BY_ LYMAN MCLALLEN (mclallen.hufs@gmail.com)

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H o t Ne w G a dge t s CONTENT PROVIDED BY_F.OUND MAGAZINE / TRANSLATION BY_JUNG-YOON CHOI

The Pros & Cons In this month’s gadget review, we took a look at the hottest new contraptions, and broke down the pros and cons of each item.

Hello, my name is Mini.

How to share the memories

Like Price doesn’t only reflect performance and functionality. This slick and stylish luggage is exactly what a trendsetter looks for in a travel carrier.

Like What happens when you only have one copy of a photo that everyone wants to have? BenQ Photo Scanner has the solution for you. You simply insert the SD card, turn on the scanner, and scan the photo. The image will save directly onto the SD card, so you can easily share it.

Dislike Nothing extraordinary when it comes to function. Dislike Although it might be a cool gadget to have, at the end of the day, it is just a scanner. If you already own a scanner, what’s the point of paying hard-earned money to get another one?

BMW Mini Rooftop Cabin Trolley | ₩ 330,000 | mini.co.kr

BenQ Photo Scanner CP70 | ₩ 147,000| benq.co.kr

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A traveling turntable Like Any music lover will love this item. If you thought that you could never carry turntables, you were mistaken. IonAudio LP2 Go is battery operated, and you can listen to the songs right away through the built-in speaker or through headphones. You can also plug in the USB and turn the LP sound into a digital track. Dislike The traveling turntable may be the answer to many of our dreams, but unfortunately, it hasn’t been officially imported into South Korea yet. If you want to purchase it now, you have to bear the shipping and handling costs as well as import taxes, which are quite costly. Ion Audio LP 2 Go | $70 | ion-audio.com

Always beware of the fire Like Lighting up dozens of candles for a special event for the one you love is a romantic idea. But if one small candle spills over, that special night could turn into a disaster. This LED light has perfectly reproduced the effects of a real-life candle. Just tilt the cup and turn off the light. The candles are also easily rechargeable. Dislike These fancy candles do not come cheap. A new Louis Vuitton purse might be a better use of your cash. Philips Imageo LED Candle Lights | ᅩ 73,500| philips.co.kr

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Phone conversation must go on Like I don’t want to go on and on explaining the special functions of this headset. To put it simply, the sound quality is better. Once you charge it, you can talk on it for 15-hours straight. It has a pretty cool design, too. Dislike Price point, period. Oh, and on top of the abominable price, it’s really small, so people might mistake you for a crazy person who talks to himself. Motorola Elite Sliver | ₩ 179,000 | motorola.com/kr

Self-healing project Like The exterior of the Nissan Infinity is painted with a soft, geltype synthetic resin paint so that it self-restores scratches. Nissan has applied this amazing function to the iPhone case. Dislike While this high-tech case gets five stars for functionality, the design is very plain. Nissan claims that they plan to launch this special case this year, but they better improve the design first. Nissan Scratch Shield iPhone Case | 출시 예정 | nissan.co.kr

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Trickeye Museum Hongdae—an adult’s playground. But while infamous for its eclectic hodgepodge of restaurants, bars, cafes, and clubs, Hongdae is also often considered the art mecca of Seoul. Home to the young artists of Korea, the bohemian character of this party-goer’s haven boasts a certain je ne sais quoi not found in other areas of the city. Now dig a little deeper, and in the basement of Seogyo Plaza, amidst this tightly packed cluster of food and entertainment, you’ll discover a whole new grounds for play. Trickeye Museum is a unique art gallery that houses trompe l’oeil paintings. French for “deceive the eye,” trompe l’oeil is an art technique that creates the optical illusion of a 2-dimensional art piece being 3-dimensional. So rather than simply view and admire the pieces, visitors can interact with and actually become subjects of the artwork.The museum inspires creativity and imagination while being silly and fun. People of any age are sure to have a good time, and for shutter-happy Koreans and tourists seeking fun photo-ops, this museum is a must see. And the Trickeye Museum is just one of the attractions in Santorini Seoul, a multi-cultural space housing several exhibitions and a performance hall, which feature contemporary art and Greek Mythology among others. So those who are looking for something a little more mature have other realms to explore. And to cap off their experience, visitors can grab a fresh cup of organic brewed coffee at Café Santorini.

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Museum Information Adults: 13,000 won / Group: 10,000 won Youths & Children: 11,000 won / Group: 8,000 won Children 3 years old and younger: Free (Group: 20 people or more)

Directions Hongik University Station (Subway Line2), Exit 9. Walk straight ahead to the corner and turn left. Walk straight ahead to the Starbucks located just before the second street on your left. Standing with Starbucks on your left, look right across the road and there is a little lane. Cross over and walk down the lane about 100-150m and the Museum is in a building on your right. Don’t miss the small sign on the electric pole on the right side.


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Bridge Paperzine can be found at local businesses in Seoul and at major cafes throughout Korea <EMBASSY> Algeria Austria Bangladesh Belarus Belgium Canada Chile Czech Republic Denmark Finland France Germany Ghana Hungary India Ireland Italy Japan Kazakstan Malaysia Mexico Nepal Netherlands New Zealand Norway Pakistan Poland Portugal Republic of Serbia Russia Rwanda Singapore Slovakia Spain Switzerland Thailand United Kingdom Uruguay Venezuela

<UNIVERSITIES _ Korean language institute> SEOUL YonSei University SeoGang University Korea University Seoul National University HanKuk University of Foreign Studies Ewha womans University KonKuk University SungKyunKwan University SookMyung women’s University HanYang University HongIk University SangMyung University SamYook University SungKongHoe University ChongShin University HanSung University GYEONGSANG-DO PuSan National University JEOLLA-DO ChonBuk National University

<UNIVERSITIES _ division of international studies> SEOUL Korea University Seoul National University Hankuk University of Foreign Studies Seogang University Yonsei University Hanyang University Konkuk University SungKyunKwan University Soongsil University Dongguk University Dong Yang Mirae University University of Seoul

INCHEON Inha University GYEONGGI-DO Catholic University of Korea Eulji University CHUNGCHONG-DO KAIST Kongju National University Soonchunhyang University Hanbat National University GYEONGSANG-DO Kyungpook National University Keimyung University Pukyong National University Ulsan College Chinju National University of Education Korea Maritime University JEOLLA-DO Song Won College Sunchon National University Chonnam National University Honam University

GYEONGSANG-DO Gyeongnam International Foreign School Busan International Foreign School Okpo International School Handong International School JEOLLA-DO Kwangju Foreign School SunCheon Foreign School JEJU North London Collegiate School

<HOTEL> SEOUL Bestwestern Walkerhill Hamilton Courtyard by Marriott Seoul Times Square IP Boutique Hotel Grand Ambassador Seoul Grand Intercontinental Seoul Parnas Hotel Seokyo Hotel Seoul KyoYuk Munhwa Hoekwan Imperial Palace Hotel Mayfield Hotel Renaissance Seoul Hotel Seoul palace hotel Sheraton Grand Walkerhill Hotel INCHEON Best Western Prima Songdo Park Hotel Paradise Hotel Sheraton Incheon Hotel CHUNGCHEONG-DO heongpung Resort Ramada Plaza GANGWON-DO Alpensia Resort Hotel Interburgo Wonju Kensington Flora Hotel Kensington Hotel GYEONGSANG –DO Best Western Gumi Hotel Hotel Concorde in Gyeongju Hotel Interburgo Daegu Hotel Interburgo Exco Hyundai Hotel Gyeongju Kolon Hotel Komodo Hotel Lotte Hotel Busan Novotel Ambassador Busan Paradise Hotel JEJU Hyatt Regency Jeju

<ENGLISH CENTER > SEOUL Global Village (Seorae ) Global Village (Yeoksam) Global Village (Yeonnam) Global Village (Yeonnam) Global Village (Itaewon ) Global Business Center Gangdong English Center Nowon English Village Seoul English Village (Gwanak) Seoul English Village (Suyu-dong) Seoul English village (Pungnap) INCHEON Incheon Seo-gu Global Education Center GYEONGGI-DO Gyeonggi English Village Yangpyeong camp Gunpo Blaobal Education Center SeongNam English Town Ansan Hwajeong English Village Icheon Global peace village Americancity GYEONGSANG-DO Global Village (Busan) Changwon Geoje English Village Gyeongju English Village Daegu Gyeongbuk English Village Busan Global Village Sangju English Town Yeongju English Center JEOLLA-DO Gwangju International English Village Gurye Foreign Language Town Gunsan English Learning Center Mokpo English Village Muju Global Education Center Yeosu Foreign Language Center Imsil English Center Jeonju English Center

<RESIDENCE> SEOUL Casaville Vabiensuite Starvill CO-OP Residence Fraser suite Fraser place DMC ville Windroad and Windflower

<INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL>

<GUEST HOUSE> SEOUL HAPPY GARDEN GUESTHOUSE MAMA GUEST HOUSE NAMSAN GUESTHOUSE TREE GUESTHOUSE Myeongdong GUESTHOUSE Bangranghostel BONG HOUSE KIM’S GUESTHOUSE TEA GUESTHOUSE HONG GUESTHOUSE Backpackers INSIDE Banana Backpackers Grape Garden House Seoulbackpackers TravelersA Seoul Guesthouse

SEOUL Namsan International Kindergarten Rainbow International school Rainbow Children Center Seoul Foreign School Asia Pacific International School Korea Kent Foreign School Lycee International Xavier Korea International School (Gaepo) INCHEON Chadwick International School Canada Maple International School GYEONGGI-DO International Christian School Korea International School (Bundang) Big Heart Christian School

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<TOUR> SEOUL Gyeongbokgung Myeongdong Itaewon Gwanghwamun Global Center tourist information office Gimpo International Airport Namdaemun Market Dongdaemun Myeongdong Itaewon COEX Hongdae GYEONGSANG-DO Andong Hahoe folk village Gyeongju Station Gimhae International Airport Busan Bulguksa Terminal Haeundae INCHEON Songdo convensia Incheon Airport JEOLLA-DO Gwanghallu Jeonju Traditional Culture Center JEJU Seogwipo-si Jeju

<ITAEWON> SEOUL WhatTheBook Nashville Neal’s yard The flying pan blue La Cigale Montmartre London Tea My Chelsea Macaroni Market Manhattan Moghul Bit 1 Villa Sortino Sortino’s Suji’s Spicetable Ashoka Alsaba Indigo Chakraa Cup&Bowl Thai Garden Tacobell Pattaya Panda King Pancho's Alt Swiss Chalet Phillies Pub Salam Scrooge pub Steff Hotdog The Hungry Dog

<CAFE> SEOUL 405kitchen Deux Cremes Espresso Public coffeeSmith aA Design Museum Shin’s coffee house Café 302 Grazie coffee Elly coffee house Coffee Me



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