RTW by ROOPAL KHARE

Design Project Ready to Wearr (TREND FORECASTING TO RANGE PLANNING)

DESIGN PROJect 1- ready to wear Copyright - Roopal Khare, 2013 www.coroflot.com/roopalkhare

Design Project I Ready to Wear

INTRODUCTION

generally continued to be custom-made well

sizing system which the industry could follow.

into the 1920s. In that decade, factors such

In the mid-1940s, the Mail-Order Association

as the development of industrial production

of America, a trade group representing catalog

techniques, the rise of the advertising industry,

businesses such as Sears Roebuck and Spiegel,

eady-to-wear or prêt-à-porter is the

the growth of an urban professional class, and

asked the Commodity Standards Division of

term for factory-made clothing, sold in

the development of national markets accessed

the National Bureau of Standards (NBS, now

finished condition, in standardized sizes,

through chain stores and mail order catalogs,

NIST )to conduct research to provide a reliable

as discrete from made to measure or bespoke

contributed to the success of the women’s

basis for industry sizing standards. NBS agreed,

clothing tailored to a particular person’s frame.

ready-made apparel industry. Ready-made

and punch cards holding the USDA survey

articles of clothing were portrayed as modern

results were transferred to NBS at its request

Before the American Civil War, ready-made

and fashionable during a time when the new

for reanalysis. (While the women’s apparel

(also called ready-to-wear) apparel existed but

consumer industries were rapidly redefining

sizing standard is the focus of this exhibit, NBS

its variety was limited. Mainly coats and jackets

the way Americans viewed mass-manufactured

also reanalyzed USDA data for teenage girls

(known as outerwear) and undergarments were

goods. Instead of seeing the purchase of

and children, resulting in other standards.) The

purchased using predetermined sizes. Most

mass-produced clothing as entailing a loss

USDA data was augmented by data received

clothing was made by tailors or by individuals or

of individuality, American women began to

from the Research and Development Branch of

their family members at home.

accept the pieces of ready-made merchandise

the Army Quartermasters Corps during World

as affordable, and up-to-date fashion items that

War II when measurements were taken of 6,510

could be replaced easily as styles changed.

WAC personnel.

At the outset of the Civil War, most uniforms

However, the new ready-made clothing often

Today, Ready-to-wear has rather different

were custom-made in workers’ homes under

fit poorly. Each manufacturer created its own

connotations in the spheres of fashion and

government contract. As the war continued,

unique and sometimes arbitrary sizing system

classic clothing. In the fashion industry,

however, manufacturers started to build

based on inaccurate body data or no body data

designers produce ready-to-wear clothing

factories that could quickly and efficiently

at all. Garments of widely different dimensions

intended to be worn without significant

meet the growing demands of the military.

were frequently labeled the same size by

alteration, because clothing made to standard

Mass production of uniforms necessitated the

different manufacturers. This situation resulted

sizes fits most people. They use standard

development of standard sizes. Measurements

in additional costs for alterations and large

patterns, factory equipment, and faster

taken of the soldiers revealed that certain

volumes of returned merchandise. This, in turn,

construction techniques to keep costs low,

sets of measurements tended to recur with

increased costs for the consumer of ready-to-

compared to a custom-sewn version of the

predictable regularity. After the war, these

wear clothing.

same item. Some fashion houses and fashion

The Civil War was a pivotal event in the historical development of men’s ready-made clothing.

designers produce mass-produced and

military measurements were used to create the first commercial sizing scales for men.

In 1937, the U.S. Department of Agriculture

industrially manufactured ready-to-wear lines,

The mass production of women’s clothing

prepared to conduct a study of women’s body

while others offer garments that, while not

developed more slowly. Women’s outfits

measurements for the purpose of creating a

unique, are produced in limited numbers.

CONSUMER BOARD 6

CONSUMER TRAITS CONSUMER PROFILE

he market survey helped in the study of

Age

22-26

Segment

parents fall in upper middle class

Type

Fashion and style conscious but looks for

trends as well as consumer traits. After the consumer study a consumer profile

was built as well as a comsumer board was made keeping in mind the targeted market segment. This made the attributes of the forthcoming

value, enjoys shopping and hanging out with

range clear as a specific standard was established

friends. Is a trend follower but adds her own

with each market segment. Along with this

signature style into it.

a particular price range was also kept in mid while develpoing a range. Also what season and

Look

Cosmopolitan look (a mix of international/

market and genre of collection was to be made

Indian trends, sophisticated and expensive).

was decided at this step.

Experimental

In addition to the price range a few other details

Education/qualification

Design graduates

Profession

fashion bloggers, artists, still be studying

Favorite designers/brands

Burberry, Dior, Zara

Style icons

Blake Lively, Emma Watson, Deepika

of the collection kept in mind were: Shape

Line

Proportion

Scale

Types of drapes

Textures

Component fitting

Finishes

Details

Construction

Fabrication material

Colors

Padukone

Aspirations

Travel around the world, become an entrepreneur

Favorite food and flavor

Continental

Shops mostly at

Zara, Only, Promod, Aldo, forever 21

After the study of the consumer profile, factors

CONSUMER DETAILS Need

on which Fashion trends depend were debated and discussed.

Uniqueness, quality (VALUE FOR MONEY),

Topics like social media, social responsibility,

long term appeal

social networking, mother and child care, shopping, family, dinning out, work and work

Style

Experimental, chic, trendy, interesting mix

life, festivals, fitness and wellness, government

and balance

and government policies and recreational activities were taken up individually and

Desire

To travel (tours and weekend getaways),

worked upon. The topic I picked up was social

become an entrepreneur, to have a luxury

responsibility.

class life The elements influencing the above issues Lifestyle

were talked about and then keywords were Student in higher education/fresher in the

built altogether for all the topics. From these

industry/business entrepreneurs

keywords, everyone took up 3 diverse words to

Spends time in college/workplace and the

built up a new theme.

remaining time hanging out with friends/ colleagues. Into clubbing, adventure sports, hiking. Buying preference Looks, comfort and money (sometimes) value matter rather than the brands/labels. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t mind street shopping. Shops for latest trends but doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t mind buying her own individual style. As they are highly educated, they have a better understanding and awareness towards products. Need-specific and Attitude

strategic planners Energetic but laidback, outgoing, carefree

final inspiration and COLOUR BOARD

ollowing the selection of the three words (INDULGENCE, POWER, and EXPERIMENTAL), a final theme/word was

selected which was the closest combination of the above three words. The word which came out was WILDERNESS. Now an image was picked up in accordance to ‘wilderness’ which marked as the final inspirational image. After the selection of the above image, pantones chips were extracted and a color range was developed. Taking this pantones shades a group of shades were mixed and matched to create a color story for the range. These colors were to be used in the upcoming collection.

FINAL IMAGE WITH THE COLOUR BOARD

MATERIAL EXPLORATION

fter the selection of the final image, many explorations were done using different soft and hard materials.

Everything from natural to artificial were used. Also the feel of the image was kept in mind while choosing materials. The softness, depth and the impact the image were to be recreated uusing different objects now. Colors of the final image were kept in mind while using materials. Colours used were mainly tints and shades of blue along with yellow as an accent colour. After some countless explorations, 3 images were selected from which silhouettes were later on created.

MATERIAL EXPLORATION

sHAPE DEVELOPMENT

fter the selection of the three final material exploration, a series of silhouette explorations were done which

were inspired by the feel, color, texture of the previous material exploration. From these line drawings, a set of 7 to 9 images were picked up for the final range. A lot of changes were done in order to blend the silhouettes with the inspirational image. Also material and colour were also forecasted with the feel of each silhouette. Finally one ensemble was selected from the range and carried forward. (IMAGE shown on page 23 in EXTREME RIGHT)

THE FINAL RANGE WITH THE SELECTED ENSEMBLE TO BE MADE

Final PROTOTYPE

ith the developement of the final range one garment was made and shot.

garment specification sheet

S.no Measurement description

inch

Centre front length (longer side)

24 ½

SEASON

SPRING SUMMER 2014

Centre front length( shorter side)

21 ½