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TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION 3 REBELLION 4 LUST 14 SCI FI 24 ARCHITECTURE 34 QUIETUS 44 REFERENCES 54
Reformation is the act or process of improving something or someone by removing or correcting. This season, we are encountered with new technology, new challenges and new stories. Because of this, Autumn / Winter 2018-19 will be a time of reformation. Reformation will consist of five critical trends that we will encounter, referred to in this book as phases. Phase 1 is Rebellion. During a time of competition, tensions rise and so do the stakes. This calls for patriotic colors, athleisure clothing with military inspirations. Phase 2 is Lust. Passion, romance, intimacyall desired feelings during a time of isolation. Phase 3 is Sci Fi. The excitement of discovering new territories, new ways of life, is what keeps us up at night. Phase 4 is Architecture. We have become our own world’s architect, designing and controlling our surroundings. We no longer have to conform to what’s around us. Instead, we tailor it to our liking. Phase 5 is Quietus. Quietus is the removal of activity, such as destruction. Our overconsumption of technology will drive us into a journey of rediscovering ourselves.
PHASE 1:
Rebellion
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Events like the Olympics and the World Cup heighten levels of patriotism, causing the inevitable clashing of egos. The result of this are patriotic colors, athletic inspired fabrics, and combat-inspired accessories.
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THE INSPIRATION
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PRINTS & PATTERNS
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FIBERS & FABRICS
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TRIMS & ACCESSORIES
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PHASE 2:
Lust
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During a time of high tensions, it is only natural to desire affection. The sequel to movie Fifty Shades of Grey inspire lacey trims and sensual fabrics. Nature and sensuality bring forward the importance of grays, earthy tones, and rosy colors.
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THE INSPIRATION
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PRINTS & PATTERNS
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FIBERS & FABRICS
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TRIMS & ACCESSORIES
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PHASE 3:
Sci Fi
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Advancement in technology, further explorations of space, and more Sci Fi movies leaves us wondering “what’s really out there?” Otherworldly textures and unusual colors make us want to leave our comfort zone and explore into the unknown.
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THE INSPIRATION
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PRINTS & PATTERNS
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FIBERS & FABRICS
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TRIMS & ACCESSORIES
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PHASE 4:
Architecture
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We have become our own world’s architect, designing and controlling our surroundings. Calming neutrals draw more attention to design and silhouettes. Simple accents such as structured necklaces and bags echo the architecture of towers and staircases.
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THE INSPIRATION
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PRINTS & PATTERNS
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FIBERS & FABRICS
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TRIMS & ACCESSORIES
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PHASE 5:
Quietus
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There will be a time where all the high tensions will settle, a euphoric release from chaos. Inspiration is sought from movement, and distressed remains. This detailing can be found in knit accessories, mixed media, and dusty colors found in the skies after storms.
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THE INSPIRATION
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PRINTS & PATTERNS
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FIBERS & FABRICS
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TRIMS & ACCESSORIES
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References
Rebellion [Intro] YOU, ME, & THE VIOLENCE [Digital image]. (2013). Retrieved February 20, 2016, from https://www.pinterest.com/pin/248542473163923940/ [Research] PyeongChang 2018 Olympics | Next Winter Olympic Games. (n.d.). Retrieved March 06, 2016, from http://www.olympic.org/pyeongchang-2018-winter-olympics 2018 FIFA World Cup Russia™ - Moscow - FIFA.com. (2016). Retrieved March 06, 2016, from http://www.fifa.com/worldcup/destination/cities/city=1559/index.html [Inspiration] Lafforgue, E. (2008, September 17). Recent scenes from North Korea [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://www.boston.com/bigpicture/2008/09/recent_ scenes_from_north_korea.html Hwang, J. (2015, October 29). Korean Model [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://koreanmodel.tumblr.com/post/132123956482/shon-min-ho-by-kim-hee- june-for-w-korea-oct-2015 Vision of Splendor [Digital image]. (2012, August 26). Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://38.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m7iux36cPE1qjbdzw.jpg VK [Digital image]. (2015, April 21). Retrieved February 20, 2016, from https://vk.com/photo-37047536_359800569 Gormley, A. (2006). Waste Man, 2006 [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://www.antonygormley.com/projects/item-view/id/260#p17 [Prints] Tup Merserize Tekstil. (2016, February). Prv400216_IMG_9456 [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://www.tupmerserize.com.tr/ Geo Abstraction - Prints: 3. Abstract Lines - Print 1 [Digital image]. (2013, February 27). Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/m/board_viewer/#/24020/page/3 Geo Abstraction - Prints: 3. Abstract Lines - Print 8 [Digital image]. (2013, February 27). Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/m/board_viewer/#/24020/page/8 Tesal, D. (2015). Image [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from www.thejealouscurator.com [Fabrics] Schoeller, T. (2013, February 22). Stylesight : Thermal Fleece [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/m/board_viewer/#/24043/page/14 Singtex, T. (2013, February 22). Stylesight : Denim [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/m/board_viewer/#/24043/page/13 DK&D. (2016, February). Prb480216_DK_D_013 [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.24315532/position/5/set/ Sld0301_kiji_moda [Digital image]. (2011, January). Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.7520921 [Trims] YKK Group. (2016, February). Prv180216_IMG_0262 [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from www.ykkfastening.com Trussardi. (2013, February). Tru_SS14_004 [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.13459492/position/0/set/ Saberi, B. (2015, February). Djs_aw16_0020 [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.23961982/position/1/set/ Marcelo Burlon County of Milan. (2015, February). BURLON_aw16_2664 [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/im age.23925768/position/12/set/
Lust [Intro] Alice + Olivia. (2015, February). Aov_aw16_032 [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.24249519/position/22/ set/ [Research] Fifty Shades Freed (2018). (n.d.). Retrieved March 06, 2016, from http://www.imdb.com/title/tt4477536/ [Inspiration] Candlelight [Digital image]. (2016, January). Retrieved February 20, 2016, from https://www.pinterest.com/pin/248542473163986019/ W Arnold, K. (2015, January). Elie Saab Spring 2015 [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-couture/elie-saab/ slideshow/collection#20 HairRomance_23 [Digital image]. (2015). Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://www.hairromance.com/ Irlin, K. (2015, September 11). 10 Things to Know About Givenchy’s Spring 2016 Show [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://www.vogue.com/13334509/ givenchy-spring-2106-new-york-show/?mbid=nl_091115_Daily&CNDID=31239482&spMailingID=12235310&spUserID=OTQ0ODc0MDQ4NjgS1&spJobID=583325492 &spReportId=NTgzMzI1NDkyS0 Kerr, M. (2006, October 9). Orchids [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from https://www.flickr.com/photos/michekerr/266015085/in/photostream/ [Prints] Eyefix. (2015, February). Eyefix_AW15_21 [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from www.eyefix.co.uk Turl, R. (2015, September). light_floral_pattern [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.22475676/position/1/set/ Turl, R. (2015, September). Dense_floral_repeat [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.22475836/position/1/ set/ Eyefix. (2015, February). Eyefix_AW15_21 [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from www.eyefix.co.uk [Fabrics] Lineapiu. (2012, July). Ptf30712_0632 [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.11062416/position/10/set/ Theater Velvet Plum [Digital image]. (2016). Retrieved February 20, 2016, from https://www.pinterest.com/pin/248542473164014952/ Rijs. (2016). [Leather Fabric Black]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from https://www.pinterest.com/pin/248542473164014956/ Azazie. (2016). Azazie Satin Fabric By the Yard [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from https://www.pinterest.com/pin/248542473164014883/ [Trims] Wng_pf16_019 [Digital image]. (2015, February). Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.23821959/position/15/set/ Guegain, A. (2015, August). Prv440216_Albert_Guegain_Broderies_003 [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/im age.24308688/position/2/set/ Ulisse. (2015, August). Prv300216_IMG_0468 [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from www.ulissefashion.com/ Valentino. (2016, January). Vred_pf16_012 [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.23746388/position/13/set/
Sci FI [Intro] Desert Dreamer [Digital image]. (n.d.). Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://desert-dreamer.tumblr.com/post/42998967605 [Research] Avatar 3 (2018). (n.d.). Retrieved March 06, 2016, from http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1757678/ NASA In 2018 ExoMars Rover. (2016, January). Retrieved March 06, 2016, from http://mars.nasa.gov/programmissions/missions/future/exomarsrover2018/ Star Wars: Episode IX (2019). (2015, August 25). Retrieved March 06, 2016, from http://www.imdb.com/title/tt2527338/ [Inspiration] NASA. (n.d.). 84_Nocturne_CV [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from www.nasa.gov Lust, X. (2014, January). Mao250114_DSC_0435 [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from www.xavierlust.com HairRomance_48 [Digital image]. (n.d.). Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://www.hairromance.com/ Barcelona, C. (2015, February). Cus_aw16_035 [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.24208313/position/16/ set/ Romance Was Born. (2013, August). Rmwb_sys14_080 [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.13072517/pos ition/37/set/ [Prints] Watkins, H. (2014, January 21). Digi-glitch [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/m/board_viewer/#/50572/page/3 Merriman, L. (2015, February). Fw15pg_LME126 [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.14740380/position/0/ set Merriman, L. (2015, February). Fw15pg_LME127 [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.14740381/position/0/ set Watkins, H. (2014, January 21). Digi-glitch [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/m/board_viewer/#/50572/page/4 [Fabrics] Frantissor. (2013, February 22). Paper Downproofs [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/m/board_viewer/#/24043/page/4 Woolmark. (n.d.). IMG_0092 [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from www.woolmark.com Safil. (2012, January). Ptf0112_sld_0147 [Viscose]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.9445898/position/10/set/ Heung, S. (2013, February 22). Men’s Swim and Surf [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/m/board_viewer/#/24043/page/10 [Trims] Bonafaccia, G. M. (2015, October). [Digital image]. Retrieved February 20, 2016, from giulianamancinelli.com Dimitrijevic, G. (2015, October). Prc1015_IMG_4284 [Colorful mules]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from http://www.gordanadimitrijevic.fr/ Oropel Italia. (2015, September). Lin20915_IMG_3718 [Leather Piping]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from www.oropelitalia.it Miyake, I. (2015, February). Miy_pf16_012 [Satchel]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from miy_pf16_012
Architecture [Intro] Air Collection. (2015, August). Prv120216_IMG_0214 [Embossed Material]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from www.aircollection.it [Inspiration] HG-Architecture. (n.d.). 060 [Wooden Architecture]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from www.urdesignmag.com Breath Box by NAS Architecture. (n.d.). 7 [Shadows and Architecture]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from www.nasarchitecture.com Holcroft. (n.d.). 1886 Technical Drawing [Digital image]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from https://www.etsy.com/listing/109475144/1886-technical-drawing-antique-math Sun, R. (n.d.). Fashion Architecture [Digital image]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from https://www.pinterest.com/pin/248542473163983797/ Riestra, W. (n.d.). [Caged Skirt]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from https://www.pinterest.com/pin/248542473163983381/ [Prints] Coxell. (n.d.). Pgaw1617_4_spraygrid [Brushstokes and Splatter grid]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.21995163/position/0/ set/ Turl, R. (n.d.). Staggered_stripe [Geometric Print]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.22467123/position/4/set Watkins, H. (n.d.). Pgss17_Spliced_shapes [Black and white design]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.23456104/position/7/ set Craggs, H. (n.d.). Pgss17_Abstract_shapes [Circle, Square, Triangle]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.23456113/position/8/ set/ [Fabrics] Young Textile Company. (2013, February 22). Performance Cotton [Digital image]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/m/board_viewer/#/24043/page/6 Waterproof Linen [Digital image]. (2013, February 22). Retrieved March 6, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/m/board_viewer/#/24043/page/7 Premiere Fashion. (2013, February 22). Thermal Fleece [Digital image]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/m/board_viewer/#/24043/page/14 Mantero. (2016, January). Prv530216_Mantero_004 [White Grid Polyester]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from www.mantero.com [Trims] CÉLINE. (2014, Spring). Bicolor Leather Bag [Digital image]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from https://www.pinterest.com/pin/248542473164049739/ Wood Necklace [Digital image]. (2015). Retrieved March 6, 2016, from https://www.pinterest.com/pin/AdatR3NE028unxFgtIRlczhTO1TyMMQunylWUNAcArZ72DtHQtP0xdE/ Le Noeud. (n.d.). Structure [Black geometric collar]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from https://www.pinterest.com/pin/248542473163976679/ Tessel Supply. (2013, May 13). Tessel Jet Pack Backpack from Tessel Supply [Digital image]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from https://www.pinterest.com/ pin/248542473164049758/
Quietus [Intro] Ashbach, D. (2013, December 3). Crepuscular Rays [Digital image]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from https://www.pinterest.com/pin/248542473163983837/ [Inspiration] Binder, D. (n.d.). Fabric Manipulation [Digital image]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from https://www.pinterest.com/pin/248542473163983805/ Won, A. (n.d.). Ruhestein, Baden-Wurttemberg, Germany [Sunrise on Snow]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from https://www.pinterest.com/pin/248542473163983825/ Albinson, L. (n.d.). [Distressed Knit]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from https://www.pinterest.com/pin/248542473164042067/ Mesh Cloud [Digital image]. (n.d.). Retrieved March 6, 2016, from https://www.etsy.com/shop/MeshCloud Cheng, T. (2015, November 10). Infinite jest [Gray gold painting]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from https://www.pinterest.com/pin/248542473163983400/ [Prints] Tomlinson, S. (n.d.). Pgaw1718_texture_placement [Blue/gray paint splatter]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.24132309/ position/4/set/ Monaco, A. (n.d.). Pgaw1718_scattered_shapes [Pink, blue brown, scattered shapes]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/im age.24132261/position/5/set Coxell, H. (n.d.). Pgaw1617_1brownpaperrip [Gray blue brushstrokes]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.21995160/position/6/ set/ Coxell, H. (n.d.). Pgaw1617_11_mottled_repeat [Brown, gray brushstrokes, splatter]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/im age.21995159/position/7/set/ [Fabrics] Arvind. (2016, February). Prv450216_Arvind_003 [Taupe Silver Material]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from www.arvindmills.com Dutel Creation. (2016, February). Prv490216_Dutel_Cre_ation_006 [Brown/Blue Cotton, Polymide, Polyester blend]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from www.dutelsa.com Tintex. (n.d.). IMG_7002 [Pink Jacquard Jersey Knit]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from http://tintex.com.au Modern Wool. (2015, January). Dom0115_domotex266 [Gray Wool]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from http://www.asiatic.co.uk/ [Trims] Kyototex Ltd. (2012, March). Spn0312_IMG_0035 [Metallic Blend Yarn]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from www.kyototex.com Emilio Pucci. (2015, August). Puc_ss16_727 [Emilio Pucci SS16 Crochet Bag]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.23323574/ position/1/set CG. (2016, February). Cgz_aw16_015 [Mixed Material Boots]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.24173741/position/3/set/ Allude. (2015, Spring). Alu_ss15_618 [Knit Necklace]. Retrieved March 6, 2016, from http://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.21179676/position/0/set/
ROSARIO CANALES CURRENT TRENDS AND FORECASTING