INDULGE
YOUR SWEET TOOTH
By Shavaughn Moss Photographs courtesy of Shavaughn Moss
Beth Stewart with her Bahamian Sweets
B
eth Stewart, at age 79, is perpetuating Bahamian heritage by whipping up an assortment of quintessentially Bahamian sweets—benny cake, peanut cake, coconut cake and coconut cream—treats that have been staples in the community from time immemorial, and an age-old childhood indulgence. Once upon a time, these homey treats were to be had everywhere. People made the simple treats and sold them out of their homes for extra funds, or sold them at various festivals around the country. You paid about a quarter for the treat of your choice, which in most instances was stored in a cleaned out and repurposed mayonnaise jar, and happily went about your business, nibbling on your sweet indulgence. But just how sweet treats such as benny cake, coconut cream, peanut cake and coconut cake came to be is a story long forgotten. Stewart herself doesn’t even know. All she knows is that for Bahamians across the generations, they’re treats they were introduced to in childhood and never thought of who invented such simple, delightful treats. To be honest, I actually never really thought about who first came up with the idea of these treats, or even why. As a kid, I just enjoyed. As I attempted to find anyone who would have an inkling about the origins of these sweet treats, I reached out to someone who has spoken out extensively on Bahamian cuisine in Patricia Glinton-Meicholas, as well as Stewart, from Beth’s Kitchen, who makes and sells these treats to this day—but neither of them knew
Benny cake, peanut cake, coconut cake and coconut creams—quintessential Bahamian treats. the history either as to who first came up with the ideas for the sweets. Both Stewart and Glinton-Meicholas say the sweet treats are embedded in Bahamian culture and are the result of both sides of Bahamian heritage—the African as well as the British, with the British coming into play specifically in reference to the coconut cream. Glinton-Meicholas said people made use of what was available and that while the cream is British, the coconut was an addition by Bahamians. Stewart said she doesn’t know how the recipes—which are simply benny seeds, coconut and peanuts cooked with sugar, and sometimes water—came to be. All she knows is Bahamians inherited it. The one thing I went into this article knowing for certain is that benny, also known as sesame, has its origins in Africa and is the word African slaves used for the seeds which were brought on slave ships from West Africa. As a matter of fact, Stewart—whose sweets are sold in a major grocery store and are in demand as favors for all types of celebrations, from weddings to birthday parties and even corporate affairs—proudly states on her label: “perpetuating our heritage”. But don’t be fooled when you go in search of your treat, thinking you’re looking for a sweet that entails butter, flour or cream—because the names of these quintessential treats are actually a misnomer. In no way are any of them cake-like in any shape, form or fashion. Researching this story gave me the opportunity to reminisce about these goodies that starred in my childhood but that I’ve rarely taken the time to enjoy in recent times.
april 2020
16
