UP & AWAY Bahamasair inFlight Magazine - Jan-Mar 2020 Issue

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JANUARY - MARCH 2020

BAHAMASAIR INFLIGHT MAGAZINE

The

Destination ISSUE

KALIK To The World HISTORIC FORTS Of Nassau

BAHAMASAIR Response To Dorian

GETAWAY TO Harbour Island ACKLINS Off The Beaten Path


CRUISE IN STYLE ON YOUR NEXT BAHAMAS VISIT

2-NIGHT CRUISES DEPARTING DAILY FROM THE PORT OF PALM BEACH TO NASSAU OR GRAND BAHAMA ISLAND WITH THE OPTION TO ADD A RESORT STAY (DEPARTURES FROM THE BAHAMAS ARE ALSO AVAILABLE!)

TO BOOK CALL (800) 995-3201 OR VISIT BAHAMASPARADISECRUISE.COM



MESSAGE FROM

THE MINISTER OF TOURISM AND AVIATION OF THE BAHAMAS

Photo Courtesy of Bahamas Information Services (BIS)

I am delighted you made the decision to visit us.

Whether you’ve come to The Bahamas for vacation or business, a genuine, warm welcome awaits you.

— Honorable Dionisio D’Aguilar, Minister of Tourism and Aviation Welcome to the Islands of The Bahamas!

Honorable Dionisio D’Aguilar - Minister of Tourism and Aviation

The Bahamas, located 50 miles southeast of Florida, is a country of 700 islands and 16 unique island destinations that is home to a population of upwards of 380,000. Over the past 60 years, on a foundation of legendary hospitality, we have built a world-class tourism destination that annually welcomes over six million visitors. Up & Away, Bahamasair’s in-flight magazine, is your personal introduction to the Islands of The Bahamas. Our islands offer vacation experiences to suit every taste, from the excitement of every watersport imaginable— boating, fishing, scuba diving, snorkeling, paddle boarding, water skiing, sea kayaking and surfing—to duty-free shopping, high-stakes gaming in world-class casinos, sightseeing of historical landmarks, eco-adventures or fine dining, to luxuriating on a palm-fringed, powder-soft, white sand beach, or watching a magnificent sunset. The options are endless! Your visit will go a long way in helping us to rebuild our two islands (Abaco and Grand Bahama) that were impacted by Hurricane Dorian. Already, Grand Bahama Island is rebounding, welcoming back visitors to its shores. Abaco’s recovery will be a longer journey. The great news is that the vast majority of our islands were not at all affected by the storm. The Bahamas is open for business, and the people of The Bahamas throughout our islands are waiting with open arms to welcome visitors to our shores. I invite you to return for a longer stay, to explore more of our 15 unique island destinations: Nassau and Paradise Island, Grand Bahama, the Exuma Islands, Eleuthera and Harbour Island, Bimini, the Berry Islands, Long Island, Andros, Cat Island, San Salvador, Acklins and Crooked Island, Ragged Island and Inagua. Welcome and enjoy your stay!

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MESSAGE FROM

BAHAMASAIR CHAIRMAN Photo Courtesy of Bahamas Information Services (BIS)

The Bahamas is an archipelago, made up of 700 islands,

and a good way to support our country’s recovery efforts is to visit one of our many island destinations, open for business and ready to serve you.

—Chairman Tommy Turnquest Dear Traveler,

Chairman Tommy Turnquest

I warmly welcome you aboard our country’s national flag carrier and thank you for making Bahamasair your choice of travel. Our aim is to provide excellent service, improved on-time performance, an integrated network of reliability and convenience to make your travel experience enjoyable. It is a goal that we will relentlessly pursue. In September 2019, Hurricane Dorian unleashed a path of destruction on the islands of Abaco and Grand Bahama, which led to some temporary changes in our schedule as it relates to Marsh Harbour and Treasure Cay, Abaco, and Freeport, Grand Bahama. Images of the damage and devastation have been seen all around the world, and it has been and will continue to be a tough road to recovery. This, however, has not diminished the exceptional spirit of the Bahamian people. Extensive restoration efforts are ongoing, and courageous members of our staff who were personally impacted by the hurricane have worked to help others regain a sense of normalcy. The Bahamas is an archipelago, made up of 700 islands, and a good way to support our country’s recovery efforts is to visit one of our many island destinations, open for business and ready to serve you. Bahamasair also flies to Exuma, San Salvador, Eleuthera, Long Island, Inagua, Acklins, Crooked Island, Mayaguana and, of course, Nassau. We would love to take you there. Remember, we don’t just fly there, we live there! Our national airline continues to grow and develop. We have a team of capable professionals, including pilots, cabin attendants, ground agents and so many others who contribute significantly to make your travel experience enjoyable. We are continually reviewing our route structure and our schedule, and we hope to leverage our ATR fleet to expand our reach domestically and within the region. We hope that you choose to fly with us again and again, and indeed make us your airline of choice. We are excited to have you aboard and again, on behalf of our entire team at Bahamasair, we thank you for your patronage, and to our visitors I extend a warm welcome to The Bahamas. Hon. O. A. T. (Tommy) Turnquest, C.D. Chairman, Board of Directors

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MESSAGE FROM THE PUBLISHER Photo by Torrell Glinton

This family is not just the Bahamian islands,

but all those destinations that Bahamasair services.

Capt. L. Roscoe Dames

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—Capt. L. Roscoe Dames, Publisher

As this, “The Destination Issue” of Up and Away Bahamasair’s in-flight magazine, was coming together, I could not help but ruminate on the history and symbolism of Bahamasair, our country’s national flag carrier, and the fact that for 46 years, it has provided an essential bridging service for families around our 16 populated family of islands. It also made me question what family means. Essentially, family is a group of parents and their children living together as a unit; but it is also a group of related things. So, that meant that I had to cast a broader net when I looked at Bahamasair’s family. This family is not just the Bahamian islands, but all those destinations that Bahamasair services. With that in mind, for “The Destination Issue”, we have carefully curated for your reading pleasure interesting articles from some of the Family Island destinations and the other “family” islands serviced by Bahamasair outside of The Bahamas. So, take a journey with us and go off the beaten path in Acklins; unwind for the weekend on beautiful Harbour Island; explore the forts of New Providence; it is in season now, so indulge in the “jewel of the sea”—the spiny lobster; wash it all down with a sip of bush tea. You can also explore this issue to discover the origins of Cuban salsa dance; take a peek into Cap-Haitian, Haiti’s second city; glimpse the history of Turks and Caicos’ National Museum; be sure to make time to grab a bite at its Chinson’s Grill Shack. For a special flight in February prepare yourself to rendezvous way down south at what is known as the biggest street party on earth—Trinidad Carnival. Up and Away is a publication that provides a glimpse into the artistic expression of our Bahamian culture, and the culture of our neighbors. In this issue we invite you to take a good look into the art of Lynn Parotti’s world, with her vision, passion and environmental consciousness. Your senses will be further heightened by our sit down with performing artist, Avvy. He is a flamboyant personality on stage and a dynamic personality off stage, and it comes across in our chat. He never disappoints; he is always full of surprises. Welcome aboard our national flag carrier. Welcome to Up and Away. It is an honor for our team at Ivory Global Management Ltd., Publisher, to be a part of Bahamasair’s ongoing history through its in-flight magazine. Do enjoy this issue and take a copy to share with family and friends.



CONTENTS JANUARY - MARCH 2020

ON THE COVER

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18 29 Cover Artwork courtesy of Kalik and Commonwealth Brewery Limited

15 Historic Forts Of Nassau 18 Bahamasair Response To Dorian 22 Pinky Fingers Up Let’s Sip The Bush… Tea, That Is! 24 Blackbeard Returns Through Blackbeard’s Revenge 26 Art - Painted Landscapes

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29 Turks And Caicos National Museum 35 Trinidad And Tobago’s Carnival The Culture, The Rhythms, The People 39 KALIK To The World 41 The “Jewel” Of The Sea - The Bahamian Spiny Lobster

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44 Experiencing Paradise At The Heartbeat Of Harbour Island 47 The Missing Link To The Origin Of Salsa Dance 49 Off The Beaten Path Turks And Caicos - Chinson’s Grill Shack 51 The Asure Win Story 55 Haiti: Another Pearl In The Caribbean 57 Performing Artist Avvy 59 Off The Beaten Path - Acklins 62 Visual Artist - Lynn Parotti 65 Destination Conservation “Your next stop is a national park” 9

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CONTRIBUTORS

JANUARY - MARCH 2020 PUBLISHED BY IVORY GLOBAL MANAGEMENT LTD. FOR ADVERTISING AND EDITORIALS CONTACT 242.328.7077 OR 242.328.7078 EMAIL: igmmagazinepublishing@gmail.com WEBSITE: ivoryglobalmanagement.com

PUBLISHER Capt. L. Roscoe Dames

MRS. CAPRICE SPENCER-DAMES an administrative professional has spent the majority of her career in the airline, retail and hospitality industries at various management levels. Her career and personal life has afforded her the opportunity to spend a significant amount of time living and traveling throughout our Family Islands, the Caribbean and the Americas. With a keen interest in culture, cuisine and people she brings her experience to the various features and production of the publication.

ADMINISTRATOR Caprice Spencer-Dames EDITORIAL REVIEW Yvette Johnson COPY EDITOR Rayne Morgan ART DIRECTOR Lourdes Guerra BAHAMAS | USA SALES Ivory Global Management Ltd TURKS AND CAICOS SALES David Newlands BAHAMASAIR CONTENT Stephen Gay inFlight Magazine is published quarterly by IVORY GLOBAL MANAGEMENT LTD., for BAHAMASAIR, the National Flag Carrier of The Bahamas. All rights are reserved and reproduction in part or in whole is prohibited without the express written consent of IVORY GLOBAL MANAGEMENT LTD. All opinions expressed in UP and AWAY are solely those of the contributors. Every reasonable care has been taken neither UP and AWAY or its agents accept liability for loss or damage to photographs and material submitted to this magazine. Copyright 2019 by IVORY GLOBAL MANAGEMENT LTD.

MRS. SHAVAUGHN MOSS is the lifestyles editor at The Nassau Guardian 1844 Ltd., the Bahamas’ oldest newspaper, and has three-plus decades of experience. She writes on a wide range of topics.

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MRS. FELICITY DARVILLE is a media professional in The Bahamas of 25 years. Felicity has experience as a television news reporter, radio news anchor and host for talk and music shows, videographer and photojournalism, video editing, radio and television production, marketing and public relations. She currently has a weekly column in The Tribune newspaper—“Face to Face with Felicity”. Felicity received special recognition from the Pan American Health Organization (PAHO) Bahamas office for her health feature on child Diabetes. She became a certified hypnotherapist in 2017.

PROF. MYRURGIA HERNANDEZ Prof. Myrurgia Hernandez, Doctorate Candidate at Universidad de Baja California, Mexico, is an alumnus of University of Havana, Faculty of Foreign Languages (FLEX according to Spanish Acronyms) Class of 1998. She became an approved Lecturer by the Board of The College of The Bahamas (COB), now University of The Bahamas (UB) on December of 1999. In 2000 (January), Ms. Hernandez joined the Faculty of The School of Communication and Creative Arts as a Spanish Part-Time Lecturer.


MS. AMANDA COULSON is the Executive Director of the National Art Gallery of The Bahamas (NAGB). A Bahamian by birth, she grew up in New York and London with frequent family visits to her Nassau-based family. She studied for her Master’s Degree at the Institute of Fine Arts at New York University (NYU) and started out at the Old Master dealers, Wildenstein & Sons, on New York’s Upper East Side, before going on to work in various art galleries in London, Paris and Milan. Developing as a writer and art critic, Coulson spent 2 years as the international Editor of tema celeste, a bi-lingual Italian/English contemporary art magazine in Milan, Italy, before moving to Frankfurt, Germany, where she consolidated her critical practice writing for a wide variety of international art magazines including Frieze, Modern Painters, ARTNews, and many others. She has also provided critical texts for monographic gallery and museum exhibitions and worked as a freelance curator, organizing exhibitions, some for Bahamian artists, abroad. Coulson is one of the co-founders of the VOLTA contemporary art fairs, in both Basel, Switzerland, and New York, USA; having run VOLTA for 7 years as Executive Director, she stepped down to return to The Bahamas and take up new position as Executive Director of the NAGB on the island of New Providence with her husband and their two daughters. MS. KHASHAN POITIER enticed by the art of storytelling, she wanted to be a screen writer when she grew up, but after a high school internship with a local newspaper, she became a journalist instead. About 20 years later, Khashan has written for TV, online and print in Texas and The Caribbean. Her experience in media relations has allowed her a diverse répetoire, which can be viewed at poitiergroup.com/portfolio. When she’s not storytelling, she’s reading them or watching them, including movies with her family.

CONTRIBUTORS MS. JOSSANE KERRICE FELIX is a Senior Project Analyst, Author, aspiring Entrepreneur, Musician, Music Commentator, Brand Ambassador and an avid patron of the arts and entertainment. Growing up between Trinidad and Tobago and Philadelphia, USA, she acquired her Masters of Business Administration Degree from Andrews University, Michigan. Jossane has wanderlust and is intrigued by various cultures, the way people live and the systems in place for societies. She has done extensive world travels not only personally or for work assignments but also as a musician while touring with different steel bands. She has actively contributed to the business, non-governmental organizational and cultural landscapes internationally.

MS. KEESHA BETHELL is a new age writer/creative who has her finger on the pulse in many areas of interest. Her experience spans mainstream news reporting and production, television/Internet program production and travel, leisure and culinary writing—not to mention social media. Keesha’s love affair with writing and social media provides her with interesting and cutting-edge ability to provide angles that entice readers across all media platforms. In her downtime, you’ll find her sampling exotic foods, travelling, creating new adventures, reading or spending quality time with family. MR. DAVID NEWLANDS is a native of the Turks and Caicos Islands. He graduated with honors in the field of Communication from Green Mountain College, in Vermont, and has worked in the media field for 5 years. Tooled with a passion for writing and a love for unique cultures, David has traveled the globe learning about the moving pieces that create our global culture today.

MS. KENDEA SMITH is a Bahamian journalist with over 15 years of experience in both print and broadcasting. She currently holds an Associate in Journalism and Mass Communications and a BA in Writing from the University of Tampa. She is an editor, public relations professional and specializes in travel writing. Kendea is married and a proud mother of two.

PUBLISHERS NOTE:SONIA FARMER for her contribution to the Visual and Performing Artist interviews in our October-December 2019 Issue

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HISTORIC FORTS REMAIN TIMELESS By Kendea Smith Photographs courtesy of Lavette Small (AMMC)

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here are few structures throughout The Bahamas that truly tell the story of the country’s history. Luckily, New Providence has managed to maintain and hold dear a few of them—the formidable forts of Nassau. Majestic in stature and circumference, the forts first came about after Christopher Columbus landed on the island of San Salvador in 1492. The European explorer, whom history deems the discoverer of the New World, was so spellbound by the Islands of The Bahamas that he wrote to the King and Queen of Spain expressing his admiration for their beauty. “I wish,” he reported, “to give a complete account to Your Highness and also to find when a fort might be built.” Despite the insistence from the curious navigator, the Spaniards made no attempts to fortify The Bahamas. Instead, the islands lay abandoned for quite some time until they came under the watchful eye of Spain’s then maritime rival—Great Britain. At that time, Britain’s privateers used The Bahamas as a base to attack Spanish ships; and in return, the Spanish retaliated by attacking the islands in an attempt to destroy the pirates who inhabited New Providence, along with all of the fragile forts that had been built. Despite this, the first application for an official fort did not come until August 23, 1672 from the Governor of The Bahamas to the Governor of Jamaica for a “King’s flag for forte”. Even so, piracy reared its ugly head. Scores of pirates repeatedly attacked New Providence and so did the Spaniards, who were aided by French ships. In 1684, the Spaniards attacked New Providence, nearly diminishing it. That same year, King Charles II of England intervened and called for pirates to be punished. An act was passed in 1695 for the establishment of the City of Nassau and two years later the first official fort of Nassau was born.

FORT NASSAU

The construction of Fort Nassau may have given some comfort to inhabitants of Nassau at the time, but this was very short-lived. The fort, with 22 cannons mounted, was built on the western side of what is now known as the British Colonial Hilton Nassau Hotel on Bay Street. A large well under the hotel was known as the southwest bastion. Between 1702 and 1704, combined French and Spanish armed forces surprised New Providence. They found the deputy governor feasting while the fort remained unguarded. The town paid the price and was burnt. As pirates once again took over Nassau, England intervened and sent the first Royal Governor,

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Woodes Rogers, to seize Nassau. After successfully doing so, Rogers took great interest in repairing the battered Fort Nassau. However, this did not occur until 1741. In 1744, the little that was left of the fort was savaged but that was not the last war it would see. By 1776, Fort Nassau, which had already begun to deteriorate, witnessed the war between American colonies and Great Britain in which the Americans won and hoisted the Grand Union Flag (America’s first national flag). Fort Nassau was once again captured for the last time in 1782 when the Governor of Cuba captured it with 5,000 men. The Spaniards regained possession until 1783 when the war between Britain and Spain finally concluded. By 1790, Fort Nassau became obsolete only to be replaced by a new fort directly to its west. Even after it was demolished in 1837, there would be no doubt in the history books that Fort Nassau set a dramatic tone for Bahamian history.


FORT MONTAGU

Named after the Duke of Montagu, Nassau’s most eastern fort’s foundation was laid on June 10, 1741. Made of limestone, the fort was completed in July 1742. At the time, the fort had 23 cannons and 94 barrels of gunpowder. The fort was invaded March 3-6, 1776 during the Battle of Nassau, where 200 Americans were looking for supplies to gain independence from Great Britain. Since civilians and British soldiers didn’t protest, no one was harmed and the Americans left Nassau two weeks later on March 17. The fort was again captured in 1782 by Spaniards but regained by the British in the following year. Years later, though abandoned by war forces, Fort Montagu remains the longest standing fort in The Bahamas.

FORT CHARLOTTE

Named in honour of the wife of King George III, Fort Charlotte took the longest to be built among all of the forts in The Bahamas. After Lord Dunmore commissioned it to be built in 1787, the stone structure that boasts a picturesque view of Nassau’s oceanfront did not see its completion until 1819—a whopping 32 years later. Between that time, the fort saw the raising of both the British and American flags above the French flag in honour of British admiral Horatio Nelson’s victory over the French at the Battle of the Nile. Fort Charlotte was dismantled in 1891 by the order of the War Office. However, during World War I, British officials sent modern cannons, which are still at the fort today. The stone structure has remained well preserved over 200 years as Lord Dunmore had preserved 100 acres around it so that homes would not be built. There are many legends connected to Fort Charlotte, mostly with stories of underground passages and torture chambers. Today, the fort is the prime location for many national celebrations.

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HISTORIC FORTS REMAIN TIMELESS

FORT FINCASTLE

Built just a stone’s throw away from Government House and nestled on Bennet’s Hill is Fort Fincastle. In 1793, Lord Dunmore named the stone structure after his second title, Viscount Fincastle. Strategically placed, the fort covers the scope of Nassau and Paradise Island. A light exhibited from this fort until the Paradise Island lighthouse was completed in 1816. The fort was also used as a signal station. Other batteries worth mentioning are the Winton Battery, Potter’s Cay Battery, Old Fort Battery and the Hog Island Battery (Paradise Island).

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THE FUTURE

The future of the forts of Nassau appears to be as robust as the cannon-toting structures themselves. According to officials from the Antiquities, Monuments and Museums Corporation (AMMC), visitors continue to flock to the forts. From July 2018 to June 2019, 23,475 visitors came to Fort Charlotte while during the same period 49,176 came to Fort Fincastle and 6,345 visited Fort Montagu. Officials say that Bahamian heritage is worth preserving and that the AMMC takes seriously its mandate to guard these very important historic sites and to ensure that they are around for future generations to enjoy. UA


We don’t just fly here, we live here

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DORIAN G

By Khashan Poitier | Photographs by Stephen Gay

rowing up in The Bahamas, you are no stranger to hurricane stories. Every generation has one. One could say that telling stories about hurricanes is as much a part of our culture as the hurricanes themselves. Our parents could tell you the story of Hurricane Andrew—how, in the late summer months of 1992, this Category 5 storm was the most powerful and destructive hurricane they had seen. Following every major hurricane that came to our shores uninvited and intentional, Bahamians seem to pick up the pieces and return to life as normal. Even on islands like Grand Bahama and Abaco, which were flattened by hurricanes Matthew and Floyd some few years ago, our people were still resilient, still hopeful. Now, this generation has a story to tell.

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BAHAMASAIR RESPONSE TO DORIAN

Mr. Woodrow Wilson, Senior Manager

Mr. Tracy Cooper, Managing Director

Forecasted as a Category 2, Hurricane Dorian was projected to steer north of Grand Bahama and Abaco. Bahamasair, the national flag carrier, was preparing for the usual “heavy travel” during the United States’ Labor Day weekend. But as Hurricane Dorian drew near, flight schedules changed. Bahamasair joined the National Emergency Management Agency (NEMA) in evacuating those islands and cays that were predicted to be in Dorian’s path. Despite this fact, most Bahamians underrated the storm and opted to stay, particularly on Grand Bahama, Abaco and the surrounding cays. Having lived in Marsh Harbour, Abaco, for 13 years, Felicia Johnson had only prepared to be cooped up in her apartment for a couple of hours. Most residents did not believe that the island would be in Hurricane Dorian’s direct path or, at the very least, be so catastrophic. “I thought it would be like other storms because I rode out [Hurricane] Andrew in Eleuthera and Andrew was a Category 4. We lived through a lot of storms and hurricanes, and we came through without the amount of damage that Dorian did,” Johnson said. As quickly as Dorian traveled across the warm Atlantic Ocean did it grow, packing gusts of over 200 miles per hour when it arrived on Grand Bahama. For 24 dreadful hours, Hurricane Dorian hovered over the island, bringing with it heavy rainfall and up to 20 feet in storm surge. Throughout the Bahama Islands, social media was buzzing with posts and videos of people treading the storm. Neighbors rescuing neighbors. Families arm-in-arm atop of roofs. Homes and businesses flattened or swept to sea. In this story, the first responders were not men in uniforms, but rather plain-clothed civilians on jet skis and in small boats, pulling survivors from their homes. Before leaving these islands on a snail’s back, it was apparent that Hurricane Dorian would be the worst natural disaster in Bahamian history. With electricity and the majority of phone lines down, Johnson was fortunate to call her supervisor, Rachel Mortimer, in the unscathed capital of Nassau. As the Leonard Thompson International Airport runway in Marsh Harbour, Abaco, was littered with debris, Mortimer and the Bahamasair team arranged for transportation to Treasure Cay, in addition to safe evacuation some four days later. With just the clothes she was wearing, Johnson joined 120 other passengers onboard one of three flights to Nassau that day. In total, Bahamasair rescued 3,260 people from Grand Bahama and Abaco onboard 22 ATR aircraft and 16 Boeing 737 jets. With each trip, Bahamasair planes were stocked with food, water, clothing and supplies that were distributed to the people from each island.

As news of Dorian’s destruction began to circulate around the world, the global community stepped into immediate action, offering donations from as far as China and as near as Jacksonville, Florida, to more than 17,000 displaced islanders. Celebrities like actress Reese Witherspoon, and recording artists like Lenny Kravitz, Sean “Diddy” Combs and Keri Hilson took to social media to offer condolences and use their influence to encourage their fans to donate to charities. Bahamasair Senior Manager Woodrow “Woody” Wilson, who is stationed at the airline’s Florida office, saw firsthand the immediate outpouring of support for The Bahamas as he coordinated the hurricane relief efforts there with the help of Floridians. Wilson described the “amazing” encounters he had while in Orlando, including seeing store signs and billboards pledge commitment to “help our brothers and sisters in The Bahamas”, including at the local Publix, where there were flyers at checkout, asking shoppers to donate to a hurricane relief fund. “Wherever I went, there was some effort. Someone was doing something to try to help. Churches, businesses — everyone wanted to chip in,” Wilson said. In the weeks after Hurricane Dorian, Wilson and his team stocked 40 pallets of food, water, clothing and other essentials into thirty 50-foot trailers, shipping them from Florida to Nassau for displaced families living throughout the country and in shelters in Nassau. It has been months since the hurricane forced Johnson out of Abaco. She lives with a friend as she adjusts to “the city life” and works at the Customer Service desk for Bahamasair in Nassau. “I didn’t even know her that well and she opened up her doors, and I’m so grateful,” she said. Johnson also expressed gratitude to the strangers, co-workers, unionists and friends who donated clothing, food and other living essentials from the time she stepped off of that Bahamasair flight until today. International and local humanitarian groups and medical teams have treated the sick and injured and assisted residents that chose to stay in disaster zones. Although the Bahamian government has received millions in monetary donations, it is estimated that it will be years before the nation’s second and third most populated islands will return to their former economic standing. The sustainability of the Bahamian economy is dependent on tourism, especially from North America. While Bahamasair continues to close the gap with flights from the U.S. and Europe to Nassau, the airline’s managing director, Tracy Cooper, is hopeful that when the Grand Bahama and Abaco international channels are reopened in late 2019, it would soften the economic blow on the nation’s tourism product.

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Ms. Betty Benoit Sr. Director of Operations Cooper said, “Right after the hurricane and even up until today, we’ve been able to maintain the leverage between Nassau and the two islands. The government is moving expeditiously to open up the gates to the United States, and Bahamasair and the communities for both of these islands’ strategy is to get those commercial routes back as soon as we can.” For Bahamasair, the infrastructural repairs and humanitarian aid are as important to both islands as it is for the airline to replicate the “best strength” of the Bahamian people. Cooper reaffirmed the airline’s commitment to give the best service to all the islands of The Bahamas.

The devastation of Hurricane Dorian was eclipsed by the best strength of the human race, proving that love, selflessness and generosity are still prevalent. This generation’s story of Hurricane Dorian was championed by the fast-acting mobilization of local and international groups and individuals, those that live and have vacationed here, or have not; that prayed for the missing, the injured and homeless; and that gave when our people had lost so much. Together, we are moving forward, and we are still resilient. We are still hopeful. Moreover, we are grateful. UA

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PINKY FINGERS UP LET’S SIP THE BUSH…

Fever Grass / Lemongrass

Hibiscus Plant

Cerasee Vine

TEA, THAT IS!

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By Shavaughn Moss Photographs courtesy of Shavaughn Moss

ahamian culture is steeped in the art of bush tea. Elders swear by the healing properties, and in some instances tout the bush as a panacea for all ailments. It’s a train of thought that many people who grew up in the world of medicine and its pharmacopeia of synthetic drugs are embracing as they turn to the bush in search of more natural cures. At the same time, they’re discovering that the bush teas of their forefathers can also be enjoyed for the simple fact that they’re delicious and delightful brews.

Tea drinking really is something Bahamians couldn’t escape by virtue of our history as a British colony or the teaching of our ancestors who did not have modern medicine at their disposal and resorted to the healing properties in the bush. Many Bahamians’ first introduction to bush tea was the “partaking” of cerasee, a vine that is boiled in water to produce an extremely bitter drink which is believed to cure tummy aches and “clean out” the drinker as well as ward off the cold during winter. For me, cerasee was my first introduction to bush tea. For the record, if cerasee was the bush tea that would determine whether you would try any other tea, you would not sip another cup of bush tea ever again in life. And if anyone tells you they love cerasee – like this magazine’s publisher has said he does—I will stand on a soapbox and tell them they’re lying. It is absolutely disgusting! And nothing you doctor it with improves the taste. No matter what anyone suggests—add sugar or a squeeze of lime/lemon, and “shotting it” tequila-style with salt—none of it helps. It still tastes horrible!

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PINKY FINGERS UP – LET’S SIP THE BUSH… TEA, THAT IS! It’s been decades since this scenario happened, but it’s one that I can vividly recall. It was of my mom insisting that my siblings and I drink a cup of cerasee before we left for school. I was at the age where I would do just about anything not to drink it – throw it down the drain, out a door, even resort to flushing it down the toilet. But she soon realized she couldn’t let us wander the house while we’re supposed to be drinking cerasee. She resorted to making us take our cups into the living room to drink while she went about her morning routine. I can recall standing there grimacing after each forced sip, and then having a “lightbulb moment” to chuck it out the living room window. What I didn’t realize was the liquid wouldn’t just pass through the screened window, but would bubble in the screen, leaving the evidence behind of my failed attempt to get rid of it. As an adult, I never touched cerasee. But if I’d let that one bitter brew be a deterrent, I would be missing out on having discovered bush teas that are absolutely delicious. And as the popularity of bush teas increases—and not just for medicinal value, but for the taste as well—many people have educated themselves on the bushes and are brewing up batches at home to sell at pop-up markets, while others have taken the art of bush tea brewing to the next level with storefronts, making the ability to purchase these teas that much more accessible to all. You get to see and learn about the teas, and what they’re good for. Ida Rose, now 79, was one of the popular tea sellers before age caught up with her. She recalls bush tea being the only thing people had available to them growing up, and of parents and grandparents teaching their children about the healing properties of the various bush. Besides the ubiquitous cerasee, fever grass – which Bahamians refer to lemongrass, soursop and hibiscus are three other bush teas that are steeped in Bahamian bush tea tradition. Fever grass is heralded as a great bush which contains substances that are thought to relieve pain and swelling, reduce fever and improve levels of sugar and cholesterol in the blood. And it has a delicious lemon flavor and wonderful citrus aroma that will scent your house beautifully when you brew a cup. Then there’s the soursop (pawpaw/Graviola) tea, made with leaves of the soursop fruit-bearing tree which when made into a tea is touted for the control of high

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Soursop Tree blood pressure and diabetes (sugar, if you’re using the vernacular). This brew is a calming one that helps with sleep. It has a mild aroma. The hibiscus is a beautiful flower, but look beyond its outer beauty, to the root of the flower itself, for its health benefits which include supporting and nurturing the human body. When boiled, it is a great drink for anyone with a cold as it’s high in Vitamin C and helps with blood circulation. But beware: this intoxicatingly vibrant-coloured tea in its pure form has a taste similar to the tanginess of cranberry juice—so sweeten please. With countless bush teas to explore and varieties that are almost limitless, there are some interesting names to boot. You can get a 21 Gun Salute tea or a Sweet Margaret tea. In recent years, the increasing enthusiasm for bush teas means you don’t have to go to grandma’s house for a cup, or the farmer’s market for a bottle, as bush teas have become a big business and gone mainstream. Opportunities to learn about bush tea and what they’re good for can be had at Tea, Talk & Tour operated by husband and wife team Paul and Denise Worrell at their Coral Harbour location, where you can view the plants being grown, taste and learn how to use them; or you can visit Tasty Teas at #21 Delancy Street where Hilda Forbes and her son John “Jay Jay” Forbes operate their tea factory, offering whole tea leaves or filtered tea bags made with organic Bahamian plants, herbs, fruits and spices. UA


BLACKBEARD RETURNS THROUGH BLACKBEARD’S REVENGE By Kendea Smith Photographs courtesy of Pirates Revenge Ltd.

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t’s the 1700s. Blackbeard and his crew are on the high seas in the West Indies looking to evade the British. With his ship called the Queen Anne’s Revenge, Blackbeard terrorized the West Indies. However, he along with many other pirates at that time called New Providence home. And even though Blackbeard is now long gone, his legend remains alive to this day. There are numerous stories about Blackbeard. Through his petrifying appearance and romanticized tales, the most infamous pirate has appeared in many genres of entertainment. Towering in stature, Blackbeard was most famous for lighting fuses and placing them in his thick, black beard to make himself more fearsome. Although his appearance was menacing,

Blackbeard was reportedly not murderous as he only captured ships and their goods as his main bounty. Here in The Bahamas where the swashbuckling pirate once roamed, there is a ship that puts you in the shoes of Blackbeard via Blackbeard’s Revenge. The boat, which is the brainchild of entrepreneur Anthony Knowles, gives patrons a chance to become a member of the crew, explore the ship filled with pirate treasures and sail along the same trek as Blackbeard and his crew. During an interview with Up and Away, Knowles explained that the idea came after he was hosting a helicopter tour. He explained that while he told many stories about Nassau, people seemed to be most interested in pirate tales. “When I told pirate

tales, I saw a twinkling in people’s eyes and with the piqued interest, I knew I was onto something,” he said. “When I saw that, I said I need to get into the pirate tour business and display our Bahamian culture.” Knowles said for him, Blackbeard was the obvious choice. “When you think of pirates, you think of Blackbeard. He made The Bahamas his home and he hung around these shores. He developed his reputation that reached across Europe and he is known worldwide,” he said. Knowles’ first task was finding a ship that he could transform into Blackbeard’s Revenge. And it wasn’t easy. He traveled the world in search of the boat that took the measurements 140ft long, 28ft wide—only to find it right in The Bahamas.

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BLACKBEARD RETURNS THROUGH BLACKBEARD’S REVENGE After purchasing the vessel, he then had the daunting task of developing it. “I found a group of very talented Bahamians who helped me to create the boat into what I wanted,” Knowles said. “It was a 16-month project with the cost of $13 million. My wife bought many antiques to put on the boat to give it the look we wanted but every item that we could find locally was purchased.” Some of those items included a 300-year-old treasure chest, ropes, barrels, cannons and trinkets from wreckages. Once you dare to hop aboard Blackbeard’s Revenge, you immediately become a part of the crew. Colourful pirates recruit you, give you a pirate nickname and inform you of your pirate duties. The swashbuckling crew also gives you a tour of the ship, which has three decks, a souvenir gift shop and two bars for libations. While touring the Nassau Harbour, Paradise Island and Montagu Bay for an hour and 15 minutes, you are transformed into a pirate living life on the high seas. In the evening, there is a sunset tour offered to patrons who want to explore the sea under the stars. With this option, patrons are served a three-course meal as they enjoy a cultural show with local artists. “People are always in awe when they see Blackbeard’s Revenge,” Knowles said. “To see it from afar they are fascinated, but to come on board is a totally different experience. We are a pirate-themed operation, but we are all about entertainment. There is something for every age for everyone to enjoy. It is a beautiful experience.”

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Blackbeard’s Revenge is owned by its parent company Pirate’s Revenge. Officials say it is hoped that more ships will be added soon. “Ideally, we would like to have two ships so that we can stage a battle at Montagu Bay. And so the future for pirates

is bright. We love the adventures. Piracy helped to make The Bahamas. Without it, where would we be?” Knowles said. For more information on Blackbeard’s Revenge visit www.BlackbeardsRevenge.com. UA


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ART

PAINTED LANDSCAPES 1.

By Amanda Coulson

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ith such stunning natural attributes on all of the “Family of Island Destinations” that Bahamasair flies to—The Bahamas, Turks & Caicos and Cuba—landscape features prominently in works of local artists. Long before we had our own entrenched art scenes, we were already destinations for artists looking for inspiration and beauty, like the American painter Winslow Homer, whose world-famous images of The Bahama Islands hang in some of the world’s most renowned museums, like the Metropolitan Museum in New York. The viewpoint of seeing our landscapes as “paradises on Earth” has remained a popular one, while perhaps overlooking some of the everyday exigencies of real life in some of these communities. Indeed, for many visitors, the islands appear as a kind of “Eden” where they might escape the hustle and bustle of their lives back home. The early European and American artists influenced many of our first generation of Bahamian landscape painters, such as Eddie Minnis (b. 1947) and Rolfe Harris (b. 1942), as well as younger painters Ricardo Knowles (b. 1962), Melissa Maura (b. 1956) and John Paul Saddleton (b. 1968), each

Winslow Homer, “Palm Tree, Nassau”, 1898. Watercolour and graphite on off-white wove paper. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Amelia B. Lazarus Fund, 1910.

2. Eddie Minnis, “Bougainvillea Corner”, 1973. Oil on canvas. National Collection. 3. Rolfe Harris, “Horse and Carriage”, 1979. Oil on Canvas. National Collection. 4. John Paul Sadddleton, “Harbour View”, 2012. Acrylic and graphite on card. National Collection.

one of whose works can be viewed currently in the National Art Gallery of The Bahamas’ (NAGB) latest exhibition—entitled “TimeLines 1950-2007” and curated by the NAGB’s Associate Curator, Richardo Barrett. While often treating similar subject matter—palms, flowering trees, quaint cityscapes or seascapes—they all have very different styles. Minnis has a pointillist technique, dabbing thick globs of oil paint onto the canvas with a palette knife, such as in the work Bougainvillea Corner (1973), in which the heavy foliage and bright pink flowers of the lush plant seem to almost hang off the surface of the canvas. Harris uses a flatter stroke and produces more realistic images, like in Horse and Carriage (1979), where a traditional buggy is seen being pulled along a Downtown street. While one does still witness such scenes today, it is hardly a true snapshot of contemporary life in bustling Nassau! An artist like

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ART - PAINTED LANDSCAPES 5. Melissa Maura, “Wellington Street Dwelling”, 1983. Oil on canvas. 6. Ricardo Knowles, “Villa Doyle”, 1998. Oil on canvas. The Dawn Davies Collection. 7. Doongalik Studios Art Gallery, Village Road, New Providence. 8. Bahama Art and Handicraft, Shirley Street, New Providence. 9. Quentin Minnis, “Paradise Found”, 2019. Acrylic on canvas. Courtesy of the artist. 10. Quentin Minnis, “Moray in 3D”, 2019. Acrylic on canvas. Courtesy of the artist.

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7 Maura, meanwhile, approaches the landscape in Wellington Street Dwelling (1983) with a whimsy and charm that also speaks to a bygone era when these small communities in “Over-the-Hill” Nassau were almost rural, sporting a plethora of fruit trees and animals. She portrays homes that were built in the old style—up off the ground to allow for air circulation and to avoid flooding, and “Bahama shutters” on the windows to provide shade—and while we still see these types of dwellings, contemporary constructions of concrete are beginning to crowd them out in some of these neighbourhoods. Knowles and Saddleton—both known as our “Bahamian Impressionists” since their style is very similar to those turn-of-the century French painters —allow more for a glimpse of modernity: in Harbour View (2012), Saddleton captures the glittering light, the vibrant foliage and the scintillating azure waters, but also the white behemoth of a cruise ship, depicted in almost the same hues as the perfectly delineated clouds. Knowles, on the other hand, shows the reality of some of the neglected historic homes, some of which are still in need of care, while others have been lovingly restored and are often used as offices in

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the Downtown area. The one depicted in the painting Villa Doyle (1998), which is hanging in the NAGB’s current exhibition, is happily one of those that has been saved, with this image created before the government’s purchase of the stately home. While in the painting one sees through the formerly abandoned rooms and into the harbour, today the house has been transformed into the National Art Gallery; and while it still sits majestically on the hill, watching those cruise ships moving in and out of the harbour, now the view is seen through a canyon of soaring buildings at the shoreline. The NAGB is an educational museum space, not a commercial space. When a visitor to The Bahamas is interested in purchasing a landscape painting to take home, there are several sites in Nassau where the local art scene can be viewed and acquired. These run from the expansive, such as The Current at Baha Mar—an art gallery in the heart of the massive Cable Beach resort—which carries a wide selection of both historic, modern and contemporary artworks, to the boutique, such as Hillside House on Cumberland Street. Doongalik Art Studios, on Village Road, is also in a charming

and diminutive historic house that once was the architectural practise of the famous Bahamian painter and architect Jackson Burnside. It is an architectural gem and is now operated as an art gallery by his wife, Pam Burnside, one of the grand doyennes and a powerhouse of the Bahamian art and culture scene. Doongalik rotates regular shows of local artists and carries a small but well-curated selection of artefacts and artworks. The quirky Bahama Art and Handicraft, founded by artist Elizabeth (Lou) Moseley almost 17 years ago and which is co-managed by her daughters, is not far from Doongalik—just around the corner and down Shirley Street. It is stuffed full of all kinds of creations but also has many charming landscapes paintings, such as those by Quentin Minnis (no relation to Eddie!). Quentin captures the beauty of the beaches and ocean in a traditional manner, presented in lovely driftwood frames, as depicted in Paradise Found (2019). He also approaches his work with a humorous eye, with his creatures creeping out of the boundaries of the painting to enter into the viewer’s space, such as in the painting Moray in 3D (2019), or by putting local flair directly


into conversation with art history, such as in Bahamian Starry Night (2019) where flamingos graze in a salt pond under the light of a very recognizable “starry night”, painted in homage to Vincent Van Gogh. Heading further south on Bahamasair, into the Turks and Caicos, one sees the same connection to the waters and foliage, with some artists using a more representative approach and others inspired by the light and water to make abstract creations. On Providenciales, one can find several small galleries offering local works, such as the Art Provo, which has impressionistic landscapes by Jamaican expat Kaye Hanna; or Making Waves Studios, which is operated by artist Sara Alexandra Skye—both located in Grace Bay. In Cuba, which has a longer and more complex history of art—with a strong influence of Europeans stretching back many years—the visitor is spoiled for choice as Havana teems with spaces that offer a wide range of work. One outstanding artist, represented internationally, is Alicia Leal (b. 1957) who currently works from her studio-gallery located in El Vedado, Havana, close to Línea Street. Her work takes a very different approach—dreamlike and surreal—using landscape in an entirely unique way to express emotions, Cuban nature and mythology. The islands cover vast territory, both geographically and artistically, and we encourage visitors to get out and explore and, perhaps, to take a painted memory back home. UA

11. Quentin Minnis, “Bahamian Starry Night”, 2019. Acrylic on canvas. Courtesy of the artist. 12. Kaye Hanna, “Island Scene”. Courtesy of the artist and Art Provo. 13. Sara Alexandra Skye, “Poseidon’s Kingdom”, 2019. Acrylic on canvas. Courtesy of the artist. 14. Alicia Leal, “Woman with Cockerel”, 2018. Acrylic on canvas. Courtesy of the artist.

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13 NATIONAL ART GALLERY OF THE BAHAMAS

MUSEUM HOURS Tues.-Sat.: 10 am - 5 pm Sunday: 12 pm - 5 pm

ADMISSIONS International: $10 Locals/Residents: $7 Seniors & Students: $5

Alicia Leal, “My Inner Monsters”, 2018. Acrylic on canvas. Courtesy of the artist.

Children Under 12: FREE

CONTACT Tel: (242) 328-5800/1 Email: info@nagb.org.bs Website: nagb.org.bs

Amos Ferguson The Pineapple Man, 1991 The National Collection

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TURKS AND CAICOS NATIONAL MUSEUM By David Newlands Photos by Turks and Caicos National Museum

The Museum gives you a sense of place; it shows the rich history

of the islands and puts things into perspective, allowing guests to become

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further immersed in the Turks and Caicos experience.

ne of the many beautiful destinations ser viced by Bahamasair, visit Bahamasair.com to book your travel to the Turks and Caicos Islands. The Caribbean is one of the most sought-after tourist destinations—beloved for its beautiful white sand beaches and crystal clear water. With attractions such as these, however, it is easy to overlook a more unique experience that can be had while visiting. While many visitors are happy to enjoy the beautiful beaches and ambiance, they are missing out on a huge aspect of the region: the Caribbean is soaked in rich history, just waiting to be uncovered by those with a curious mind. For those who seek to immerse themselves deeper into a country’s culture and history, there is a unique gem located in the Turks and Caicos Islands. For a small sum—$10 on Providenciales and $5 on Grand Turk, though free for children under 12—you, too, can visit what has been referred to by The Lonely Planet Guide to The Bahamas and

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—Candianne Williams, Curator of the Providenciales branch of the Turks and Caicos National Museum

Artifacts at National Museum


Turks and Caicos Islands as “the best little museum in the Caribbean”: the Turks and Caicos National Museum. To understand the value of these museums, one must first understand the historical significance of the Turks and Caicos Islands. The small island chain has been involved in numerous historically significant events ranging from the “Golden Era of the Pirates”—where legendary buccaneers such as Calico Jack Rackham and Blackbeard were known to have caches and coves scattered across the islands—to the country’s ironic role, as a British Colony, in providing salt to George Washington’s army during the American Revolutionary War, and even being the landing site for the shuttle pod that John Glenn—the first American to orbit the Earth—returned to Earth in. As such, the museum allows both citizens and tourists alike to learn how unique the small archipelago truly is. The museum opened as a result of public outcry to preserve Turks and Caicos’ archaeological discoveries within the country. Prior to this, it was common practice to send all findings to the United States, where they could be distributed to various museums and institutions. This demand for a local museum and preservation program started years prior, in 1982, with the discovery of the Molasses Reef Wreck—the oldest shipwreck discovered in the Western Hemisphere to be successfully excavated—which dated back to 1513. This find was invaluable as an historical discovery and as such, citizens wanted it to remain where it was found, as a hallmark to the

Artifacts at National Museum

Artifacts at National Museum

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TURKS AND CAICOS NATIONAL MUSEUM history of Turks and Caicos. After several years of planning and discussion, the Turks and Caicos Nation Museum was opened in Guinep House—one of the oldest buildings on Grand Turk—on November 23, 1991. While the museum initially started as a small operation that focused on the collection of artefacts of the Molasses Reef Wreck as well as small exhibits on early island life, its inception allowed for the discovery and preservation of several historically significant pieces that further anchored Turks and Caicos as a valuable historical location. In 1997, the Donald H. Keith Science Building—named after the lead of the Molasses Reef Wreck excursion—was constructed to assist in the preservation and storage of artefacts, sparing them from the humid climate which was detrimental to their preservation. With this new addition, the museum was able to preserve, restore and display several special artefacts, including an extremely rare preserved Taino paddle that dated back to 1100 CE. This paddle is particularly unique as there have only been two pre-Columbian era paddles ever found – the other, which was discovered in The Bahamas, is housed in the George Gustav Heye Center (National Museum of Native American History)

Grand Turk, as well as the new museum on Providenciales; each offers different experiences and exhibits. While Grand Turk has the archaeological artefacts and exhibits, Providenciales’ museum offers the unique experience of the Caicos Heritage House exhibit, which is a favorite of the curator of Providenciales’ branch, Candianne Williams, who describes it as “a piece of living history—acting like a portal into island life in the 1900s”. Caicos Heritage House is a replica of an old-fashioned Turks and Caicos household and connects today’s generation to the day-to-day challenges that their ancestors dealt with, while also grounding them with a sense of pride to see how truly unique it is to be from these islands. Williams stated that they plan on expanding this exhibit to include a communal garden, to demonstrate the older agricultural practices that were implemented before the islands were developed. While the Providenciales branch of the national museum is open to the public, it is currently in the process of seeking funding for expansion, to create a new facility to house various artefacts and exhibits. Foreign donations are welcomed and invited in various forms including becoming an official Supporter for an annual fee, as well as one-off donations, including buying an engraved brick which will line the pathway leading up to the new facility. If you are interested in supporting the museum’s growth and the preservation of Turks and Caicos’ history, be sure to visit the website www.tcmuseum.org. So, if you find yourself in Turks and Caicos and consider yourself to be an adventurous tourist, a seeker of knowledge or simply wanting something unique and different during your visit, be sure to visit one of the National Museums. The curiosity will reward you with a greater understanding of the small country as more than an ideal tourist destination, but rather as a hidden gem filled with history. UA

Caicos Heritage House

in New York City. This, along with numerous other pre-colonial artefacts, has given us a rare glimpse into history before the great imperial conquest of the Americas. The museum has grown in its 29 years of existence, expanding from a small building with a handful of exhibits into an established font of knowledge regarding the islands’ historical significance, granting insight on how present the country was throughout history. With exhibits ranging from the original ancient native inhabitants—the Tainos and Lucayans—to the outer space exhibit to commemorate the 40th anniversary of John Glenn’s landing, as well as exhibits on local island genealogy and coral reefs, the museum offers something for every seeker of knowledge. Today, tourists and natives alike can visit both the original museum at Guinep House on

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Concept Provo Museum


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TRINIDAD AND TOBAGO’S CARNIVAL The Culture, The Rhythms, The People

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By Jossane Kerrice Felix Photographs by Maria Nunes (Carnival) | Josanne photo by Colin Castillo and Andy Greene

ne of the many beautiful destinations serviced by Bahamasair, visit Bahamasair.com to book your travel to Trindad and Tobago. Dubbed “the greatest show on Earth”, Trinidad and Tobago’s Carnival is revered as “the mecca” for masqueraders not only locally, but also globally. Carnival 2020 was officially launched on September 28, 2019 at Queen’s Park Savannah, Port of Spain. The launch of Carnival is a microcosm of all of the various components that visitors to our shores could expect to see displayed in all their splendor and glory during Carnival, which ends on a perfect cadence on Carnival Monday and Tuesday, February 24 and 25, 2020. Prior to the final climatic Mardi Gras (Carnival Tuesday), which is considered the greatest street party and parade of the season, there are numerous events which begin as early as June the year before which showcase just how vibrant the people of Trinidad and Tobago can be when it comes to all things Carnival. It may seem as if Trinbagonians party all year. The season is ripe with various band launchings, which are typically the big reveal of the masquerade bands’ designs which they intend to present for competition. The band launch is like a fete and a fashion show all in one, with the creation of a wonderful ambiance at the venue, along with food and drinks galore. Members of the audience can expect to hear music and see décor and costumes specific to the theme of the

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band’s presentation while being treated with an event that is not only visually captivating but also appealing to all senses. These band launchings give the audience the opportunity to see first-hand what the bands would be presenting and to choose which design/section they may be interested in portraying on Carnival Monday and Tuesday. The release of new soca and soca chutney (soca melodies infused with East Indian rhythms) occurs just in time to boldly inject a little variety into the unceremoniously interrupted Christmas season. The Soca Chutney Monarch competition takes place in the southern part of the island at Skinner’s Park, San Fernando. All and sundry turn out to enjoy this event while showing their best chutney dance moves and savouring libations. All segments of society are included during Trinidad and Tobago’s Carnival. There is a space for the children to display their costumes at events such as the Kiddies Carnival at Queen’s Park Savannah. This will be held on Carnival Saturday, February 22, 2020. The young masqueraders are seen in their wonderful and creative costumes displaying themes from the environment to traditional characters of yesteryear. Even babies are seen all dressed up in strollers with their parents and guardians in tow, pushing along their strollers to the rhythm as these tiny tots learn to develop stamina for the road from a very young age, all vying for the title of Band of the Year. The Trinidad and Tobago culture is certainly alive and well preserved for generations to come. Trinbagonians and tourists alike live for the joy of attending Carnival fetes. In the final weeks leading up to Carnival, there are hundreds of parties which take place on the Carnival calendar of events. Fete enthusiasts enjoy the opportunity to see live performances in order to listen to all of the new songs which soca artistes would have produced for the year 2020 Carnival, ensuring that they know all the lyrics to be able to sing along word-for-word and to break out in every dance move—which also includes wining (gyrating) on every person, either friend or frenemy, during the party. Carnival fetes are critical to creating the intense build-up of the vibe of the Carnival atmosphere. There are various fete categories—from all-inclusive (food and drinks are included in the cost of the ticket); to cooler fetes (bring your own drinks but no glass bottles are allowed); to public (you pay for everything). The price ranges are far and wide, and they span the length and breadth of the twin island Republic from Soka in Moka, Hyatt Lime, Machel Monday, Tuesday on the Rocks and Beach House, to name a few. Panorama, the musical battle for the coveted title of Panorama Champion, occurs at a competition at Queen’s Park Savannah where steelbands rehearse


for weeks—and some bands do so months in advance—to be able to perfect their musical arranger’s rendition of their tune of choice. The steelpan, regarded as the only percussive instrument to have been invented in the 20th Century, has come a long way from its “bad John” and notorious associations, to being regarded as Trinidad and Tobago’s National Instrument and one in which every Trinbagonian ought to be proud. The current Panorama Champions are the BP Renegades Steel Orchestra, but be sure to visit not only their panyard but also those of other bands in the vicinity of Port of Spain such as Massy Trinidad All Stars, Desperadoes, Phase II Pan Groove, Silver Stars, Woodbrook Playboyz and Starlift. Pay a visit to bands

in the east such as Republic Bank Exodus and First Citizens Supernovas; in central Trinidad, visit Tropical Angel Harps; in south Trinidad, bands Caribbean Airlines Skiffle and Fonclaire; and if you do pop over to the sister isle of Tobago, be sure to visit bands such as Katzenjammers and Our Boys Steel Orchestra. If you are a musical aficionado, then I challenge you to pay a visit to bands such as West Side Symphony, T&TEC Eastside New Dimension, Uptown Fascinators and Pamberi Steel Orchestra and have a chat with the bands’ musical arrangers. Panorama Semi-Finals are a noteworthy event, not for the faint of heart. The pulsating rhythms mixed with the fete atmosphere and the full display of steelbands leave all wanting more by the time the results of the competition

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TRINIDAD AND TOBAGO’S CARNIVAL THE CULTURE, THE RHYTHMS, THE PEOPLE have been announced, leaving the audience eager to know which band will be crowned the Panorama Champion at the final competition on February 22, 2020. In the final round of the competition, the bands pull out all stops as they seek to present a full production of not only the sounds of steel and their musical renditions, but also a full theatrical presentation on stage, along with some bands using fireworks, fog machines and confetti to coincide with their tune of choice. An historical and noteworthy aspect of Carnival is the reenactment of the Canboulay Riots. Usually held on Piccadilly Greens, Port of Spain, it represents those who resisted the suppression of Carnival in the 19th Century, which was meted out by the government in colonial times. The reenactment provides the audience with a wonderful array of mas and jaw-dropping street theatre, taking the audience back to the time when Joe Talmana, the famous stickfighter, in 1881 struck the blow to Captain John Baker in the Canboulay Riots and then disappeared down the Spanish Main. Stickfighting is an indigenous, traditional martial art form performed in gayelles especially in Moruga and other areas in South Trinidad. Bois, as it is called, is a type of martial art where the stickfighters seek to dazzle their opponent with songs and fancy footwork before striking. Bois season is a time of fasting from alcohol, meat and conjugal relations for competitors. This keeps any distractions from the battle at hand at bay. Competitors enter the ring mentally before even rendering the first strike of the stick. Drums are played and songs calling upon the ancestors are sung as part of the spectacular approach to battle. Judges appoint a Bois King after observation of technique and approach and, at the end of the competition, competitors carefully inspect the severity of all battle scars earned from lashes received in the gayelle. On Carnival Thursday, Calypsonians compete lyrically for the title of Calypso Monarch as well as the title of Extempo King/Queen. Extempo is local lyrical banter, a lyrical shoot-out of sorts sung in lavway style. This event takes place at Queen’s Park Savannah. The final weekend of Bacchanal Week (Carnival week) arrives and is heralded on Fantastic Friday, February 21, 2020; the International Soca Monarch takes place. Soca artistes in both the power soca (up-tempo) and groovy soca (slower tempo) categories vie for the title. This particular competition has attracted many local and international celebrities who have co-hosted the event. The Hasely Crawford Stadium is packed to capacity as this live competition shows which artiste has pulled out all stops, who has the edge and who will eventually gain the title and, of course, bragging rights. Carnival Sunday, otherwise known as Dimanche Gras, heralds the arrival of the Merry Monarch. The magnificent Carnival Kings and Queens are on full display in all their glory. One would also see other traditional mas characters such as the Moko Jumbie (stilt walker), Minstrels, Dame Lorraine and the Pierrot Grenade. The show also gives locals and tourists alike the crème de la crème of various competitions during the Carnival season.

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J’ouvert occurs on Carnival Monday morning at approximately 4:00 a.m. This is not a feather and glitter event, nor is it recommended that you wear white, unless of course you do not mind your outfit being ruined. Revelers coat themselves with oil, mud, paint and even chocolate. They playfully and devilishly douse their fellow bandmates with mud and the other elements. This continues until dawn. Most people plan to go straight from their final fete of the season and Dimanche Gras to J’ouvert to ensure that they have the energy to keep up the pace. Carnival Monday takes place immediately after J’ouvert, where masqueraders wear scaled-down versions of the costumes they intend to wear for the start of the big masquerade day on Tuesday. Monday Night Mas has been traditionally held in St. James, the city that never sleeps. Masqueraders continue to party all night before heading to their place of abode to get a few hours of rest for the big day. Carnival Tuesday finally arrives with masqueraders in their beautiful costumes all on display as they parade throughout the streets of the major cities, Port of Spain being the mecca for most revelers as they go to the gym all year to tone up and ensure they have got the stamina to wine and jam on someone on the Savannah Stage. There are several judging points throughout the parade route but it all culminates at Queen’s Park Savannah. Last Lap is Carnival enthusiasts’ final round of partying in a big field or city before the music ends at midnight on Ash Wednesday. Partying until the stroke of midnight is certainly an indication that the people, both locals and visitors, just do not want Carnival to end. UA


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TO THE

WORLD

By Arnette Ingraham Photos By Dwayne Mackey – Awesome Entertainment Group

T

o the world, The Bahamas is widely known for sun, sand and sea, but dig a little deeper and this island nation of 700 islands, rocks and cays is a fusion of a global diaspora. If you ask any Bahamian what binds us together and what sets us apart, nine times out of ten, the answer will be our culture–particularly, and almost strictly, Junkanoo.

THE START

Thirty-one years ago, when HEINEKEN created a beer of The Bahamas, the most obvious and captivating choice for a name was the sound the cowbells make during Junkanoo. In both name and popularity, KALIK is the official beer of The Bahamas. A distinctly Bahamian name necessitates a taste also representative of The Bahamas. KALIK is best known for its golden, bold, fresh and full-bodied taste; adjectives that could easily be used to describe our island nation or the characteristics of our people. So what else makes it distinctly Bahamian? Well, it’s only brewed in The Bahamas by local professionals, who adhere to the highest standards of production by utilizing smart technology and well-established brewing principles.

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groups: Genesis, Music Makers and Prodigal Sons. What KALIK has done, ingeniously, is drive a national dialogue fusing the nation’s favorite pastime (Junkanoo) with its favorite beer! So far the results have been astounding with the new Junkanoo group branded beers flying off the shelves for consumption, bragging rights and even memorabilia. As much as the competition drives us, KALIK brings us together as Bahamians—no matter which group you represent—to celebrate WHO WE ARE!–Junkanoo.

THE EVOLUTION KALIK is the beer of choice for Bahamians’ most memorable moments and no matter what type of beer drinker you are, our brand has evolved to embrace you. Following on the success of our original version, KALIK GOLD—a bolder and stronger lager–was introduced in 1992. Five years later, a more health conscious beer drinker emerged and KALIK LIGHT hit local shelves. In 2010, KALIK introduced its first flavored beer, KALIK LIME, followed by the KALIK Radler series for novice beer drinkers. So no matter the occasion or the palate, KALIK aims to be the premier beer choice for its consumers.

THE PRESENT Today, KALIK boasts a full suite of beers and we remain keenly focused on creating new and exciting beers that appeal to our markets. As focused as our beer brand is on bringing new products to market, we are equally committed to building on the success of KALIK as the cultural and national icon that it is. On November 4, 2019, KALIK launched its “Who Are We!” Campaign. The campaign has captivated the nation by celebrating the very roots (no pun intended) of Kalik’s heritage; Junkanoo. From its inception, KALIK has been intrinsically linked to the Junkanoo community in The Bahamas and the two have enjoyed a mutually beneficial and lasting relationship. But to captivate a nation requires focus on not just Junkanoo itself but the people who make it what it is! In The Bahamas, most Bahamians align themselves with one of the major Junkanoo groups that rival for the top prize primarily on the Boxing and New Year’s Day Junkanoo parades. As passionate as U.S. cities are about their particular sports team, so too are Bahamians about their favorite Junkanoo group. Wherever you are in The Bahamas, the retort to the famous chant, “Who Are We”, would be the name of that person’s favorite Junkanoo group. Since we couldn’t single out one group in particular, our “Who Are We” Campaign captured all of the major Junkanoo groups. Though arguable, depending on which Bahamian you ask, the top Junkanoo groups in The Bahamas’–One Family, Roots, Saxons and Valley Boys (mentioned in alphabetic order to avoid concern over any bias)–logos are now the face of Kalik cans across the nation, with each group getting its own can. KALIK bottles represent the four groups already mentioned and the three other major

THE FUTURE KALIK is truly a celebration of who we are as Bahamians. The future of our brand is hinged upon our position not only as The Beer of The Bahamas but also the beer of choice for Bahamians and the millions of visitors to our shores. While we aspire to catapult KALIK onto the world stage, we are and always will be defined by the people who made us what we are—our Bahamian community. We are committed to the preservation and promotion of Bahamian culture and will continue to support Junkanoo, local regattas, homecomings and festivals that unite us as a people. Assuredly, KALIK will continue to evolve, just as it has since its inception in 1988. What we’ve accomplished in just over three decades is no easy feat for a company and population of our size; however, we’ve always had the support of the Bahamian community who are just as proud of us as The Beer of The Bahamas as we are to bear the title. KALIK is deeply woven into the cultural fabric of our nation and as our country grows, we’ll be right there to celebrate and commemorate what it truly means to be a proud Bahamian! UA

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THE “JEWEL” OF THE SEA THE BAHAMIAN SPINY LOBSTER By Shavaughn Moss | Photography by Shavaughn Moss

Wok-Fried Bahamian spiny lobster at Shuang Ba at Bahamar

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Minced lobster w parsley rice and veggies-special ordered at Graycliff Restaurant

Lobster Thermidor at Graycliff Restaurant


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here is no better time to be visiting The Bahamas than now, because it’s lobster (crawfish) season y’all! And the “jewel” of the sea—the Bahamian spiny lobster, that chefs froth at the mouth for—is in high demand and to be found everywhere from the most high-end restaurants to the mid-range establishments to roadside shacks and every manner of dining establishment in between, including in the homes of almost every Bahamian, in delicious applications of course. So, there’s no better time to indulge in this delicious crustacean. If you’ve never indulged in a Bahamian spiny lobster before, prepare yourself for a treat. Simply put, the meat is sweeter than any other lobster you’ve had before. Everything about it is delicious—taste and texture; and it allows chefs the ability to do so much more with it than other lobsters, which makes this one of those seafoods that chefs and locals covet between August 1 and March 31 annually. The methods of preparation run the gamut—from the very homey minced (“steamed”, as Bahamians call it, but which by no means is steamed) lobster dish; to cracked/fried lobster which has become a phenomenon in recent years; grilled, which can be found on virtually any menu around town; as a salad; starring alongside truffle in macaroni and cheese; the always popular lobster bisque; the classic thermidor; curried; and wok-fried with Asian applications. Lobster is so popular that high-end restaurants have taken to housing live lobsters in tanks in their restaurants in an ode to ocean-to-table dining to ensure that this prized delicacy arrives at your table at its absolute freshest. The ability to take the lobster from the tank, cook it and serve it makes all the difference in its flavour and texture profile. You can literally enjoy the spiny lobster prepared any way your heart desires. At Graycliff Restaurant, the Bahamian spiny lobster morsels are featured served in a cream-based wine tomato sauce and baked in its lobster tail shell—their ode to lobster thermidor known as Lobster Graycliff; or you can have it served with two sauces—French white wine butter sauce and a lobster velouté. Crusoe’s Restaurant at Comfort Suites Paradise Island is where you’re apt to find curried lobster or a grilled lobster as a special to shake things up and keep it interesting. Meanwhile at Cocoplum Bistro & Bar the crustacean gets a European flair, served up persillade-style with garlic, butter, parsley and fresh spinach. At Baha Mar, the wok-fried lobster is a must-have at Shuang Ba. And at Carna by Dario Cecchini, they could not wait to feature the spiny lobster on the menu at the upscale steakhouse once the season opened.

Lobster Bisque at Graycliff Restaurant

Curry lobster at Crusoe’s at Comfort Suites Paradise Island

Atlantis’ Café Martinique showcases the spiny lobster slow-poached on their starter menu as well as on the main in an impressive tableside flambe. And at Olives it’s served grilled with a choice of sauces from orange butter sauce, scampi butter sauce and roasted red pepper relish. And don’t be surprised if you hear that celebrity chef Jose Andres, if he’s in town, went diving and caught the lobsters being served on his menu at Fish by Jose Andres at The Cove at Atlantis. It could happen! This spiny delicacy has even infiltrated the sushi market and can be found on the menu at one of the newest dining outposts—Latitudes—featured as a signature roll in their lobster tempura; it’s also showcased in their teppanyaki experience. And that’s just dining around New Providence! Taking a trip outside the capital in search of the most delicious lobster offerings, you have to visit Sip Sip’s Harbour Island flagship location for their iconic and must-have lobster quesadilla with chipotle lime crema and tropical salsa. (And if you can’t make it to Harbour Island, check out their outpost at The Cove at Atlantis.) The deep-fried lobster with caramelized onion at Santana’s Bar & Grille in Williams Town, Exuma, is a reason to hop on a plane and experience it. Canvassing some of the country’s top chefs who have grown up eating spiny lobster and continue to be partial to the crustacean, there’s no comparison between the Bahamian spiny lobster and other lobsters. They all say it just tastes better, has a better texture and you can do more things with it. The craziest application I heard about was from private chef, Jamal Small, who was also the Caribbean Chef of the Year 2018 and who made a crème brulee with spiny lobster; as far as he’s concerned, spiny lobster and vanilla go well together, and he said the burnt texture picks up really well.

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THE “JEWEL” OF THE SEA – THE BAHAMIAN SPINY LOBSTER You also have use of the lobster tomalley (fat) in the head, which is richer. In the Maine lobster it’s minimal and doesn’t have that in-depth umami flavor. Take the traditional Maine lobster roll, and amp it up with our traditional flavors. For traditional lobster salad, instead of just boiling and picking it, I put it in a court bouillon (flavored broth), but add some butter to that to add another layer that makes you say “what is that”, along with Scotch bonnet peppers for that Caribbean heat and traditional flavor. Combine with the classic salad ingredients—bell pepper, tomato concassed (the flesh is removed so you don’t get the liquid), onion, celery and mayo (homemade if you’re feeling adventurous), and you let that sit for a minimum of 10 minutes to allow the flavors to come together. Place between a buttered toasted roll. Spiny lobster also works well with tropical fruits—mangos, passion fruit, pineapple—compared to the other lobsters. Fried, it pairs well with mango chutneys and aiolis or any reduction of that sort, so while you’re here indulge all you want while you can. Because when you return home and get a hankering for this delicious crustacean, it’s going to be extremely difficult to replicate the flavors and experience with other lobsters. Most chefs that work with Bahamian spiny lobster agree that trying to replicate the flavor in other lobsters takes a lot of tweaking and reworking that can be difficult as other lobsters don’t have the depth of flavor and the texture to withstand the preparations the way the Bahamian spiny lobster can. It is spiny lobster season, so indulge and enjoy! And take a return trip before the season ends. UA

Baked spiny lobster at Nobu at Atlantis

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EXPERIENCING

PARADISE

Bay Street

AT THE HEARTBEAT OF

HARBOUR ISLAND By Keesha C. Bethell | Photography by Stephen Gay and L. Roscoe Dames II

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y home of New Providence is an island, but it can definitely be compared to big cities around the globe where the “city” mentality thrives. It’s what makes a visit to a place like Valentine’s Resort and Marina in Harbour Island the perfect spot for a weekend recharge right here in The Bahamas. Harbour Island is a part of the makeup of Eleuthera—the “Island of Freedom”. “Briland”, as it is referred to by locals, is 3.5 miles long and, at most, 1 mile wide, with an intimate population of 2,000 people just northwest of mainland Eleuthera. Though small in size, Harbour Island is known for its three-mile long pink sand beach, and also as popular getaway for many celebrities who just want peace of mind in an undisturbed paradise with some of the modern conveniences of life. The sweetest part about getting to Harbour Island is that it was only a short Bahamasair flight away. When we landed at the North Eleuthera Airport, Taxi #137 was waiting to take us to the dock where we would catch a ferryboat ride to our destination. Lyman Neilly, a native of The Bluff, Eleuthera, was our driver. He was informative and made our short ride from the airport to the ferry dock a pleasant one. From the dock, we were whisked away on a five-minute ride aboard the Eagle 1 Ferry with Captain Bucket.

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EXPERIENCING PARADISE AT THE HEARTBEAT OF HARBOUR ISLAND

Loyalist Cottage Chillin’ patiently in our golf cart—pre-arranged by the resort—with a big smile on his face, was our dreadlocked friend Cruz McIntosh as he waited for us on Harbour Island’s dock. As we stepped onto the island, time seemed to stop; all that mattered in that moment was the portrait of the peace and beauty of Briland. We were surrounded by calm, crystal clear waters. Ahead of us, on the waterfront, were colourfully painted homes of New England-style architecture. Seagulls glided above us. The sun kissed our skin as if it were welcoming us to paradise. The ambiance of it all screamed “relaxation”. We hopped into our golf cart and headed to Valentine’s, which was a two-minute drive away from the dock. The only traffic on the road was us. The open-air ride was breathtaking as passersby waved at us as we drove through the narrow streets lined with rich greenery of lush palm trees, hibiscus and bougainvillea. On our way to the resort, we took a detour into the island’s hub—Dunmore Town—to get a closer look at the colourful houses that had caught our attention from the dock. They were in immaculate condition with wooden shutters, each one surrounded by a white picket fence. The wheels of our golf cart came to a stop at the 1797 Loyalist Cottage—the most photographed and visited site on the

island. The turquoise and white cottage with Jada Thurston gingerbread trim was the perfect time capsule for history lovers. It is said to be one of the first homes built by the British settlers in The Bahamas, and still maintains the magnificence and splendor of its heyday. Upon arriving at the resort, we were warmly greeted by Jada Thurston from Dumfries, Cat Island—a southern Bahamian island. She was friendly, helpful and pleasant. Walking into the resort put us immediately at ease and we wanted only to plop down in our well-appointed room at Sapodilla House, a portion of the resort that marries world-class luxury with tropical serenity. Before we settled into our room, we noticed that Valentine’s had recreational offerings that we had to explore. Our first stop was a quaint coffee spot. Cocoa Coffee House sat on the second floor of one of the resort’s historic buildings and beside the pool atrium. While there, we enjoyed Starbucks and Lavazza brand coffees while taking in the perfect view of the surrounding areas. Valentines Marina

Once we had our caffeine fix, we were energized to see the other amenities offered at the “heartbeat” of the island. There were spa services at Dermalogica and a fitness center. For a little retail therapy, there was Calico Trading, an on-site fashion boutique and gift shop fully stocked with apparel, beachwear, bags, gifts and sundries. Then there was the waterfront dining at The Boat House Restaurant and at Rooster Tail Bar & Grill. The food at the restaurant was as fresh as could be—from the ocean to the plate. We watched the catch of the day being cleaned dockside before being taken to the kitchen to be masterfully prepared for consumption, and we sipped on fresh fruit daiquiris while waiting for our meal, which could be described in two words: “fresh” and “scrumptious”. We ate the conchiest of conch fritters—they were balls of goodness that must have had a 70/30 split between the conch and the other ingredients—and also had seafood bisque and fish tacos. Our dining experience gave us a front-seat view of the resort’s marina—dubbed the “Best Marina in The Bahamas”, earning it a World Travel Award. Referred to as a “mariner’s dream in the middle of paradise”, it draws anglers from around the globe. The marina is state of the art and the largest on the island. It accommodates vessels up to 200 feet, with impressive offerings including fuel service, cable hook-up and wireless internet access at every slip. It’s not every day that the general manager of a resort sits down to share laughter and down-to-earth conversation with guests, but Dean Spychalla was one of a kind, taking time out of his busy schedule to be a gracious host. He was more like an innkeeper caring for his houseguests.

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Our stay in Harbour Island would not be complete without spending a day at the world-renowned pink sand beach. In 2017, Travel + Leisure magazine named the beach among the top five places in the world to find pink sand beaches. We spent the day running barefoot on the beach and running our fingers through the cool, cascading, powdery pink sand. We collected shells along the way and swam through the gentle, warm waters. At the end of our trip, we cruised around the corner and down a small street to Ms. Saunders’ house to pick up her hot “Briland Bread” that’s made with love in her kitchen. We had placed our order on the day of our arrival so that it could be fresh for collection on our travel back to Nassau. We were sad to leave Briland. Over a short period of time, the staff at Valentine’s Resort and Marina became our family and it was not easy leaving them behind. Yet the experience did what we needed it to do; the feeling of relaxation from our weekend lingered, our minds were at ease, our bodies were rejuvenated and we were ready to take on the city again. UA Dean Spychalla

Ms. Saunders’ bread

Pink Sand Beach

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According to Maestro, “In 1871, the orchestra Miguel Faílde was created by Miguel Faílde Pérez, a well-known musician from Matanzas, a western Cuban Province. In 1875, a group of Cuban Carnival dancers, or Carnavaleros, from Simpson, Matanzas, whose leader and director was a wealthy man known as Mr. Simpson, started a new trend. They used to dance to choreographies created by them, while singing songs sung by them as they danced in couples. They danced to these songs without music and called it danzón.” It sounds to me like the new rhythm, danzón, is the Spanish pronunciation of “dance song”. The meaning made sense to me when Maestro Pulido emphasized that “they danced singing but there was no music played”. That year – according to Maestro’s account – “Mr. Simpson asked Mr. Faílde to create music for his dancers, as a job order. Mr. Faílde honored the request and

THE MISSING LINK TO THE ORIGIN OF

SALSA DANCE

O

By Prof. Myrurgia Hernandez

ne of the many beautiful destinations serviced by Bahamasair, visit Bahamasair.com to book your travel to Cuba. I’ve always been puzzled by the much-disputed origin of salsa dance. I remember that a few years ago, while co-hosting a radio show with Host Roscoe Dames, the question about the origin of salsa dance was posed on live radio on Island FM, during a show called Ritmos Latinos. Friday after Friday, we hosted this very popular show that captivated the audience with its unique style and joyful ambiance. Upon hearing the question, I recall giving an answer that, upon research, was proven to be correct. During the quest for the correct answer, I interviewed a few persons on the topic. The most accurate response was provided by Maestro Rafael Ricardo Gutierrez Pulido, Dance and Percussion Master—known internationally as Maestro Rafael Pulido—who is a Cultural Ambassador and has traveled the world teaching both Cuban and Afro-Cuban dances and percussion. While interpreting Maestro Pulido’s recent Master Class on Percussion, before Music Majors at the University of The Bahamas, I realized that he was not only teaching percussion, but was also doing a cultural DNA transfer on Cuban beats; just like that I realized that I was at the end of my quest, as I had found in Maestro a human salsa encyclopedia and the source that I now call “the missing link to the origin of salsa dance”. According to Maestro, the name affectionately given by his students and trainees, “Salsa dance evolved from a series of rhythms rooted in the African and European cultures.” He began to tell of the full story and said that “it all began in early 1700, when the influx of Europeans brought ‘la contradanza’ to Cuba, originally danced individually, and soon evolving into ‘danza de salón’, similar to la contradanza, danced with a partner and a more modern dance style”. It seems that la danza de salón had more flavor. I would say that the “sauce”, which is the meaning of the Spanish word salsa, “was already cooking”. To add more flavor, new rural trends were made popular. Maestro shared, “In Guantánamo, eastern Cuba, rural dances such as kiribá, a free lively-style dance originated from a Taíno word; and nengón, danced in male-female duets in a circle, who moved their feet in a circular motion, as if piling cocoa or coffee with their feet, originated in Baracoa (the former Taíno capital of Cuba, home to the Indians who inhabited the region; nowadays the capital of Cuban cocoa).”

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created a danzón called ‘Alturas de Simpson’. Mr. Simpson was a very wealthy man who owned many properties in Simpson Heights, Matanzas, like the name of the song”. Maestro added, “This first danzón was danced for a while, but the beat was difficult to follow.” I must say that it was interesting to hear Maestro speaking with so much passion and accuracy on this topic of interest to many. As per my new-found salsa human encyclopedia, “In 1879, Simpson spoke with Faílde again, to request the musician once more for a job order, to write another danzón with a different rhythm, easier to dance, but with the same name.” To my amazement, I learned that “Mr. Simpson paid Faílde with one of his real estate properties, since the musician was a lover of quimbumbia game or baseball played at the time”, which I can share on another issue. Maestro, while sharing his wisdom, said that “the first danzón beat disappeared and a new danzón, with a new beat, which was also called ‘Alturas de Simpson’, was created”. I know you think that’s all to the origin of salsa dance, but there’s way more that will leave you with your mouth open. Further in my research, I learned that in early 19th Century, another rhythm called changüi was born, also in Guantánamo. This finding was a reminder of very interesting data provided by Maestro Pulido, who said that “a Chinese man


known as Chan and a Haitian man known as Güi, who worked in [a] Yateras coffee field, created a rhythm played with bongo drums and a tres (a three-string guitar), which was named changüi”. Maestro said, “The changüi from Yateras is danced with a style different from the changüi from El Salvador, Guantánamo.” Then I asked Maestro to help me to understand how all those rhythms came to Havana. Maestro shared that “in 1955, Elio Revé brought changüi to Havana with ‘Elio Revé y su Charangón’, which lead to ‘son’, the real mother of salsa dance and rumba”. Maestro continued taking me through my rhythmic journey, and showed me how “son” was danced; to his surprise, I followed him, and then asked him to spill the soup about the son-salsa connection. According to Maestro, the iconic rhythm called “El Son” was made more popular by Miguel Matamoros, who brought it to Havana from Guantanamo with

Maestro emphasized that “the Cuban rhythms with the most influence in salsa dance were son, rumba, mambo and cha-cha-chá”. I must share with you that during my research, I found a place called the Republic of Kiribati, pronounced also “Kiribas”, in the Pacific, whose native Indians practice dances that will remind you of Cuban kiribá. Then again, if native Indians were already found on the island of Cuba when the Europeans introduced la contradanza; if the African heritage was introduced in Cuban popular music through danzón, which was created after kiribá, originated in the then Taíno Capital; and styles like nengón led to changüi, danzonete, rumba, mambo, cha-cha-chá, guaracha, casino dance and what is today known as salsa…is the origin of salsa dance beyond what we know?.... I would love to know. UA

his Trio Matamoros—a three-piece band that became very famous; but it was when Benny Moré, a very famous singer, joined Miguel Matamoros’ conjunto that “El Son” became international. Maestro also shared: “It was Arsenio Rodríguez—a musician known as ‘el ciego de oro’ (the golden blind man) because of his musical creativity, and who is claimed as the father of the modern instrumental format or conjunto—who sealed a new ‘son’ brand by adding congas and piano, creating ‘El Son Montuno’. ‘El Son’ became very popular, as it allowed couples to move from the small square of the previous rhythms that had them confined.” The 20th Century witnessed a new way of dancing, created by another musician from Matanzas who played in Faílde’s “orquestra”, and whose name was José Manuel Aniceto Díaz. Maestro said, “The musician, known to many as Aniceto Díaz, created a new rhythm called danzonete; a fusion of danzón and ‘son’ which led to guaracha, paving the way for rumba, mambo and cha-cha-chá.” While taking notes from the lecture provided by Maestro Pulido—the human music encyclopedia, I learned that with the birth of “la guaracha o guaracha son”, made popular by Celia Cruz y La Sonora Matancera, Cuban music began a new era: “the Casino Era”. In the words of Maestro, “Between 1954 and 1956, casino dance was created. It has urban origins, and it was danced in the casinos in Havana. It was created by persons who were frequent casino-goers. ‘Casino’ has the influence of all previous dances, including cha-cha-chá, and is now also known as salsa. Cuban-born Celia Cruz migrated to New York and took Cuban music with her to New York and Puerto Rico. She modernized salsa and Puerto Ricans soon began to dance it cabaret-style, imitating the movements of well-known Cuban Cabaret Tropicana, danced with the steps from Cuban son, and created the new style that they made their own—known as New York salsa.”

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TURKS AND CAICOS

OFF THE BEATEN PATH CHINSON’S GRILL SHACK

O

By David Newlands | Photographs by Chinson’s Grill Shack and David Newlands

ne of the many beautiful destinations serviced by Bahamasair, visit Bahamasair.com to book your travel to the Turks and Caicos Islands. Where is the best place to find a unique dining experience in a country filled to the brim with great restaurants? Most seasoned travelers agree that the greatest local experiences are often found in the places where one might least expect. It may be in a nondescript plaza, or in what looks like a regular house to the untrained eye, yet once you encounter these hidden gems, you too will appreciate how special and authentic they are. Few consider a major highway to be an ideal location for a scenic sit-down restaurant, let alone the home of one of the most unique dining experiences in a country; however, Chinson’s Grill Shack is one such treasure. Perched atop a small hill overlooking the bustling Leeward Highway, this iconic eatery was founded in 2000 by Alan Hutchinson as a small Jamaican bakery. It was created to fill a vacuum on the island, providing easy grab-and-go meals for workers and a nostalgic haven for lovers of Jamaicans cuisine. Offering traditional staples such as patties, coco bread and other classic dishes, Chinson’s quickly became popular among locals, becoming the go-to location for a fresh, cheap and delicious meal. Over the years, the business gradually expanded its offerings to Chinese food and a wider array of classic Caribbean dishes. Initially, the restaurant was easy to miss for those who were unaware of its existence; nestled in a small storefront, it was relatively unknown to tourists. While the business operated successfully for 13 years in this fashion—catering primarily to local clientele—things changed in 2013 when Alan’s son, Mike, took over the operations and management of the restaurant. Having studied architecture and business management, he saw opportunities for the business to expand its horizons and shift to being more than a local secret spot; hence the restaurant experienced a dramatic renovation. Upon taking over operations, Mike made it his mission to update the restaurant—focusing on strengthening what made it special, while giving it a modern touch. He started by installing an expansive deck that took advantage of the ocean vista which lay beyond the highway—visible thanks to the restaurant’s

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hilltop location—while also increasing the dining capacity with outdoor seating. Along with this deck expansion, a bar reminiscent of a beachside canteen was installed, with a four-sided bar and a center island that displays the variety of drinks available, effectively maximizing counter space while still allowing for the space to be open. He also updated the restaurant’s mascot, making it the famous Chicken that can be seen on the now iconic sign. Chinson’s had transformed from a small storefront to a beautiful roadside bar and grill with a uniquely rustic island aesthetic, a beautiful wooden deck and a palm thatch roof. Diners have the option to eat on the deck overlooking the ocean vista, or under the shade of the new roof. Most prefer the open deck, where diners can enjoy the sea breeze and beautiful view while eating. While the restaurant is only a few feet away from the busiest road in Providenciales, there is minimal noise pollution due to the building’s design, allowing guests to benefit from the ease of access to the main road while slipping into a peaceful atmosphere, forgetting that they are next to the busiest highway on the island. Even with the renovations, the original Chinson’s building still stands and acts as the heart


of the restaurant; it still houses the bakery and kitchen, allowing grab-and-go access for local workers who simply want a quick patty instead of a full meal. Along with its unique aesthetic, Chinson’s offers a one-of-a-kind menu. Serving a unique blend of Caribbean and Chinese dishes, as well as traditional American barbecue, the diversity allows for all to enjoy dining at this location. With everything ranging from Caribbean staples such as jerk chicken and oxtail—or for the more adventurous eaters, “manish wata” and curried goat—to classic Chinese-American dishes like shrimp lo mein and lobster Cantonese, there is a unique diversity in the menu that can satisfy most, if not all, palates. Among many of the crowd favorites, one of the most acclaimed is the jerk chicken, which has a unique, sweet twist to it, setting it apart from others on the island. If you are having a hard time deciding, and are in a group, there is no need to worry as you can also order the Mixed Grill Platter, which feeds 2-3 people with a diverse combination of dishes such as shrimp, jerk chicken, jerk pork and traditional Caribbean side dishes such as fried plantains and coleslaw. It goes without saying that if you are hungry, you are sure to find something delicious here.

Chinson’s has many stellar aspects, however, its greatest asset is the people. As a family business, many of the employees have worked here for years and are as instrumental to the business’ success as the delicious food. From waiters and waitresses that can make even a cold-blooded stoic smile, to chefs that have perfected the diverse menu through years of practice, the team is what brings life to Chinson’s. This—coupled with the family-oriented ideologies of the restaurant, where everyone is treated like an old friend—makes dining here an extremely pleasant experience. Most diners also have the pleasure of meeting Mike, as he checks on guests personally to ensure they are having a stellar experience. It goes without saying that Chinson’s is one of the few restaurants that still honours old-school restaurant traditions, and it is what makes it such a special location. The combination of a convenient yet beautiful venue, a diverse menu of excellent food and a staff that cares makes Chinson’s one of the best locales on the island if you are seeking to get away from the tourist-saturated areas in favor of something with a more local touch. So if you find yourself in Providenciales, and you want to have a unique dining experience with excellent service, an ecliptic yet delicious menu and a unique view, be sure to visit Chinson’s on Leeward Highway. It is truly one of the best authentic dining experiences that you can have. UA

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THE ASURE WIN STORY Story and Photographs courtesy of ASure Win

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n October of 2013, two young, innovative Bahamian men took a chance and launched an online gaming enterprise—A Sure Win. Entering an unregulated, crowded market with over twenty competitors, Leander Brice and Garvin Newball took the bull by the horns and proved the “big boys only” theory wrong. When one thinks of gaming moguls, one does not hold imagery of young men coming from humble beginnings. These two ambitious newcomers quickly made their mark in the industry and got the respect they deserved. Just over two years in ASure Win, utilizing a strategy that focused on providing superior customer service and targeting the underserved, rural Family Islands, the duo made amazing inroads into the local gaming market. The story of these two young men began some 20-plus years ago when they met at a church function. The friendship between them grew into a brotherly bond as they entered C.I. Gibson High School together.

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“We didn’t have much money back then but we had big dreams,” Newball recalled. “The circumstances were far from ideal, but I was fortunate enough to have parents who did their best to provide for me and support my dreams, instilling in me a confidence that I think many young men growing up in similar circumstances lack.” Newball possesses a cheerful and easy-going personality. Quite an avid sportsman, he excelled in track and field as well as American football, becoming a Division 1 college prospect before suffering a torn ACL which pretty much stopped his athletic aspirations. He is currently a coach for the Freedom Farm Baseball League and is also a part of the national flag football team. During his early years, he worked as a butler at what was the world-renowned “One and Only Ocean Club” at that time—now referred to as The Ocean Club, a Four Seasons Resort. The discipline and strong work ethic he gained from his athletic and hospitality careers afforded him an opportunity to manage a multimillion-dollar estate.


“‘Many times people miss out on their opportunity because it comes in overalls and looks like hard work,’” Newball continued. “That quote has always stuck with me throughout the years and I made a promise to myself that whatever field I entered, whether it be sports, hospitality or gaming, I would never shy away from rolling up my sleeves and putting in the necessary work, because I did not intend to miss my opportunity when it came along.” Humble beginnings are a learning experience for Brice. Having that experience equipped him with the skills necessary to take the scary and risky road into entrepreneurship which, for him, started right after he graduated from high school. Launching one business idea after the other, he had successes and he had failures, each time expanding his knowledge. He eventually found a niche for himself within the information technology (IT) field, providing IT services to local businesses. The real success came, however, when he ventured into the retail industry and launched one of Nassau’s “hottest” clothing stores—Obsession. Both achieving their own successes, the young men often spoke of collaboration. “When Garvin, the risk-taker, first brought up the idea of getting into the gaming industry, we were both a little wary of taking the plunge into that crowded and unregulated industry. We both had other priorities as well and he was making a very good living in the hospitality industry, and I had my own successful business to run,” Brice explained. “We had to weigh our options before we took a step that would drastically change both of our lives, for better or worse.” Fast-forward five years after that initial conversation—both men are now married with families of their own. ASure Win gained its license in October 2015 and it currently has 16 locations in Nassau and throughout the Family Islands. It’s more than obvious that these two young men have a winning combination; but they haven’t forgotten their humble beginnings and they certainly have not forgotten that it’s good to give back to the community, which includes their very own customers. As a result, ASure Win has taken on the following community initiatives: • 2016 – Adopted the Garvin Tynes School Center for Autism.

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THE ASURE WIN STORY

Email: me@me-ltd.com | www.me-ltd.com @MachineryAndEnergyLtd

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• 2017 – Held a Thanksgiving luncheon for residents of and donated supplies to Pat’s Senior Citizens Home. • 2018 – Partnered with Aliv to host two back-to-school events, including giving away school supplies and providing funding. • 2018 & 2019 – Donated laptops and other funding to the Bahamas Primary School Student of the Year for each respective year. • 2019 – Donated 10 laptops each to Harbour Island All Age School; L.N. Coakley Senior High, Exuma; R.N. Gomez All Age School, The Berry Islands; and Patrick J. Bethel High, Abaco. Aesthetics are very important to ASure Win, therefore its stores have just the right royal look for its customers. ASure Win stores, now called “‘A’ Lounges”, will soon all have a friendlier atmosphere for gamers. So far, stores located on Mackey Street, Saunders Beach, Soldier Road and Harold Road have “Las Vegas casino” kind of décor. Work is in progress on the other stores. Additionally, the enterprise’s Harold Road location will now be open 24 hours for the convenience and enjoyment of its customers. For all their individual successes, Brice and Newball still consider themselves to be two normal guys—even now, after achieving the kind of success that kids in inner-city Nassau often dream about. Their story is one of success through teamwork: two lifelong friends who overcame the odds together in order to build better lives for themselves, their families and their communities. UA


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HAITI:

ANOTHER PEARL IN THE CARIBBEAN By Prof. Myrurgia Hernandez Photographs by Stephen Gay Sans Souci Palace (Cap Haitien)

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ne of the many beautiful destinations serviced by Bahamasair, eye-captivating Saut Mathurin waterfall; Cascade Touyac; and Marie-Jeanne visit Bahamasair.com to book your travel to Haiti. Musee Grotto, a 2.5-mile tri-level cave system which is the largest cave discovered If you were given options to visit a Caribbean nation…where thus far in Haiti. Another attraction is the National Pantheon in downtown would you like to go? I’d love to visit a place that has a different Port-au-Prince which, although solemn, has one of the most unbelievable collections taste from the entire region; a place that I would like to call “Another of historic artifacts in the Caribbean. You must visit the Ogier-Fombrun Museum, Pearl in The Caribbean”, or maybe you know it as the Republic of Haiti. Whether which will take you back to the pre-Columbian Indian age. Both attractions you visit Haiti out of curiosity or perhaps on a business trip, you will discover must be included in your “I-can’t-miss-this-site list”. Haiti’s attractions definitely amazing facts that will make you return on a planned visit; a reason to flee from bring the nation’s history to life. Although imagining the beautiful sites may all the stress and the daily routine and yield to living your holiday dream, as you seem sufficient, there’s nothing like having the live experience—a face-to-face wonder if you truly deserve paradise. Well, allow me to take you on a visual tour that will definitely cause you to book your next Hispaniola-bound flight. Haiti is literally a synonym of tourist attraction. Although French Creole is the most popular language spoken, French is the official language of this beautiful nation that is full of natural resources and many eye-catching sites to visit from the north to the south; and as if coming out of a dream, history and mother nature intertwine, giving birth to places that can tell a story at a glance. One of such places often identified as a symbol of Haiti is the historic Citadelle Laferrière, a fortress built on the top of a mountain called Bonnet a L’Eveque since the war of independence and once known as the crown jewel of Haiti’s national defense. Citadelle Laferrière, which amazingly is still standing, has been depicted on local currency, port cards and stamps. Speaking of nature, there is nothing like witnessing the colorful contrast that the French-heritage nation has to offer. There are natural parks whose landscapes match the rhythm of a water flow that will enchant you. Your eyes can be blessed by the view of waterfalls such as Bassin Bleu, famous for Citadelle Laferrière (Cap Haitien) the three natural pools of water connected by waterfalls;

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Heroes Monument of Vertières

Craft Market Cape Haitian

encounter and the experience of witnessing the natural beauty of the country is definitively a must. The coastlines of this beautiful Caribbean francophone nation are second to none. The country is full of beautiful beaches with turquoise blue waters—a fascinating blue that will make you feel enchanted. Shorelines like Ile-a-Vache on the Arcadins coast and Jacmel in Cap-Haïtien are worth the visit. The fine sands – whether white, gray or brown – are perfect for taking a sunbath, or simply playing beach volleyball. The soft waves are so inviting that it makes them become ideal for water sports or aquatic activities such as jet skiing, snorkeling, kayaking – you name it!!! Haitian cuisine is full of exotic dishes. It would be pretentious to say that the Haitian cuisine is the best of all the Caribbean, however nothing prevents you from saying that it is distinguished by its unique flavors. In the north of the country, particularly in Cap-Haïtien, inhabitants are known for their culinary excellence; however, we cannot take the merit from connoisseurs from other regions of the country who are also known for their gastronomic skills. Haitian cuisine is delicious and the ingredients used are freshly collected on the same day; we can say that Creole-palatable items are known for their “seductive freshness”. Never miss an opportunity to try a fritay or fried plantain, usually accompanied with griot (fried meat), pikliz (a spicy vegetable salad with chili pepper flavor) and a beverage of your choice. When it is time to choose your drink, there are options that are a must if you want to claim your visit to the French Creole side of the Island of Hispaniola: Rhum Barbancourt and Prestige beer. Both drinks are very popular all over the country, however, each of them is well-known for its unique taste. If we compare them, the fact that Barbancourt rum has made its way across the globe has made it more notorious than Prestige beer, with a range of five products: White, 3 Star, 5 Star, Anejo 8 years, Anejo reserve aged for 15 years and Pango. Barbancourt is known to all, except those who have religious constraints. As for Prestige beer, it’s not that we want to compare it to the other international brands, but the name speaks for itself. Both mature and young generations appreciate Prestige’s taste. Haitians say: if a person has never tasted a Prestige beer, this person has never tasted a true beer. I don’t know how you party where you come from, but Haitians can really party. Jacmel Carnival and the National Carnival, on the second Sunday of the month

of February, will serve as a living testimony of the fun Creole-nation party spirit. Jacmel Carnival is celebrated each year and gathers Haitians from the four corners of the country, including those living abroad, who rush into the city to celebrate this festivity which is out of the ordinary. During one day only, citizens adorned with costumes made with shimmering colors and masks in papier-mâché, perform folk dances in the streets of the city to the sound of music performances that express what the Carnival is all about. Once there, the music will play in your head until the arrival of the National Carnival a week later. Usually the National Carnival is held in Port-au-Prince. Its concept is exactly the same as Jacmel’s, however it is obvious that there is a greater number of spectators. Finally, there is Sumfest—another great summer celebration at the beginning of the month of July, on the coast of Arcadins in Wahoo Bay, a turquoise water site that has the ideal temperature for such festivity. Sumfest is a synonym of music on a large-scale. Live performances, the hottest DJs and the bands that you hear on records and always wanted to see are there. It is an atmosphere like no other. I would say, you must book your up-and-away-bound flight and live the Haiti experience, which you will remember your entire life. UA

Water Vessels

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AVVY

PERFORMING ARTIST

By Capt. L. Roscoe Dames II | Photographs courtesy of BTC and photographer Kovah Duncombe

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or this January-March issue of Up and Away, publisher Captain Roscoe Dames caught up with dynamic Bahamian entertainer Avvy. Well acquainted with Avvy’s fun-loving side, I was prepared for a conversation that I knew would be entertaining, but the rake-n-scrape artist caught me off guard and also laid bare the serious side to his fun-loving persona. So, sit back, relax and enjoy my conversation with the man who is also known as “Da King of the South”. Where did the name Avvy come from? My full name is Wendell Avione (“Avvy”) Javaughn Mortimer Jr. My father’s name was Wendell too, so in order to avoid the name confusion while growing up I was called by my middle name, Avione, and subsequently my nickname is Avvy. A lot of fans thought that I made it up or had some fancy, in-depth definition of my name—but not really; it’s just my middle nickname, Avvy. However, now everyone just calls me “Da King of the South”. We all know you as an “Inagua man”, were you born and raised on the island? Yes indeed. I am so much an Inagua man some of my fans think that I speak as if Inagua is a foreign land to The Bahamas. Like most children [that grew up in] the 80s, south of the Exuma Islands, we all had parents who had to fly to Nassau (New Providence) to give birth at Princess Margaret Hospital, stay for a few days and then fly home. But in all seriousness, I was born in Nassau (New Providence) and was raised in Inagua. But no worries, my navel string is buried right there down in the south, off Gregory Street in Matthew Town, Inagua. What was it like growing up in Inagua? Inagua, in my opinion, is the best place for any child to grow and be reared. It’s safe. Everyone knows everyone. There is not much to do so, for a child, this is a very great place to develop your imaginative skills. There are no malls, no Walmarts, no movies—so we are forced to play and naturally develop our imagination. Inagua still has a unique “village” culture where the community and the people still feel a township responsibility in rearing the neighborhood children. We still believe down here that it takes a village to raise a child. Inaguians stick together when it comes to our community and supporting those who are direct and indirect descendants of the community. We celebrate our people who go out into the world and do great things. It’s like we all share in the pride when Inaguians do great things.

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Inagua is known for salt and flamingos – and then there’s Avvy’s unique sound. Is it rake-n-scrape or Inagua rock? Well, they call us the best-kept secret and I will stand by that tag line every day. However, when it comes to what I would want Inagua to be most known for, it’s the very people that make Inagua great. As for the music, I will boast and say—at the expense of losing some of my artist friends (laugh)—the further south you go in The Bahamas, the sweeter the rake-n-scrape music and culture gets. This has been a running joke between us for years. You’ve made your home in the United States, how do you keep inspired to create this unique sound? Where do you draw inspiration from for your music? Since the onset of my career, I have been living in the USA, pursuing my engineering degree. After completion, I hung around for a bit, and today I am still here (laugh)… The way I stay in tune with my culture is the direct result of my family, my friends and my fans in my life. As for where I draw my inspiration [from], I always tell people this about my music: I am a storyteller and my stories have been so easy to create because I only write what I see happening with our people every day. I admit that some of my songs are racier than others, but that’s the joy of creating the art, after all. What’s new from the Avvy camp? Avvy’s most recent hit song is called “Sugar Sweet”—written, composed and produced by Wendell Mortimer (tongue very much in cheek). Avvy has also now taken an exciting leap into the music production sector of Bahamian music—visit www.getsugarsweet.com for a free download for a limited time. You have always been an exciting performer… But the costumes, the clothing, the flamboyance – does your mother approve? (Laugh) Why thank you for the compliments. I have been known to surprise with my unique style of dress and flashiness. I think that’s what keeps the crowd coming back. They never know what to expect when I come from behind the curtains on stage. New fans especially will always judge their interaction with your show within the first 30 seconds; appearance is the key part of capturing an audience. People first like what they see and then what they hear. So, making sure that I have their attention from the first few seconds is important to my performance.


Is the world ready for Bahamian music…the Bahamian sound? And if so, why, in your opinion? I think…rather, I believe strongly that the world is hungry for the elements of a new sound. Bahamian rake-n-scrape music is an amazing genre, however, it will take strategic creativity from the producers and artists for Bahamian music to reach certain markets. What does Bahamian culture mean to you? Wow! What a loaded seven-word question. My Bahamian culture means the world to me as an individual and my inherent values as a person. I love being Bahamian. If you could invite three people to dinner, living or dead, who would they be and why? Would you cook or let your mother and her sister(s) do the cooking? Only three people man that’s not fair (laugh)!

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Well, my favourite thing to do around the house is cook. I love and enjoy cooking. I was raised on an island, so as far as I know all island men can cook. That being said, my three most sought-after dinner guests (alive or dead) would be a dinner with my father; a roundtable dinner with Prince, Michael Jackson and Otis Redding; and Sir Sidney Poitier and musician King Errisson. I lost my father during the pinnacle of me becoming a man and growing into my own. The road to success was and still is a very curvy, narrow and surprising, bumpy journey during which many times I longed for guidance from my father. With that said, I owe a great debt of continued gratitude to my closest male figures in my life for helping me make sound decisions. I would do a roundtable dinner with deceased American artists Prince, Michael Jackson and Otis Redding, to pick their brains as to what kept them so consistently engaged in the music business despite the challenges all at the same time. I would also do a dinner with actor Sir Sidney Poitier and musician King Errisson (who received his first big break at age 23 when his talent with the conga drums was prominently displayed in a memorable nightclub scene in the James Bond movie Thunderball)—two wonderful Bahamians of the arts who went on to make such cultural impacts in the world. And of course, this interview could not conclude without me inquiring of Avvy about the Inagua salt he promised me a few weeks ago, and of his excuse for why I haven’t gotten it as yet. And I wasn’t above threatening to call his mother again to ensure I get my Inagua salt. Well, cap’… You know, if I promise you something—man, that straight. Inaguians, like I alluded to earlier, we always look out for our own. And since your many visits to my home, you know I look at you as an honorary belonger. UA Catch Avvy on social media: Instagram: Avvyonline | Facebook: AvvyBahamas | Twitter: AvvyBahamas Bookings: avvymanager@gmail.com

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OFF THE BEATEN PATH

ACKLINS By Felicity Darville Photographs by Anita Collie, Greg Mendoza and Arnette Chisholm

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ave you ever had an overwhelming feeling to get lost from the world? Get away from the hustle and bustle and demands of city life, and escape to a place that seems as if time itself has forgotten it? Well, you would join the millions of travelers who scope all over the globe for the perfect place to have a truly pristine getaway. The next time this feeling hits you, think... Acklins Island. This destination will meet and surpass every demand for exclusivity, privacy and nature that is pristine and practically untouched since the beginning of time. This southern island in the Bahamian archipelago houses sleepy little towns with a home-away-from-home kind of feel, where time literally melts away until you even forget how to count it. Depending on how long you stay, the days may literally blend together until you don’t know or care what day or time it is. The next thing you’ll be doing is planning a subsequent trip, or figuring out how you could make this God-blessed place your retirement heaven. That’s exactly what Julius and Arnette Chisholm did. The couple, having raised a family on New Providence, decided that it was time to live the Bahamian dream—retire in their ancestral land and enjoy the true beauty that The Bahamas has to offer. But there was some work to do. In order to make the move, the Chisholms had to ensure that they could live well in retirement. That’s when the dream for Chester’s Highway Inn Bone Fish Lodge was born. It would represent a place that could comfortably accommodate tourists from all backgrounds with varying needs, and it would serve as another reason to consider Acklins Island as a vacation destination.

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The Chisholms meticulously planned their lodge and decided to focus on bonefishing, a sport that would create a tempting allure for anglers worldwide—a remote location with beautiful weather and perfect flats with water just teeming with fish. The spot where the lodge is constructed is blessed with a three-mile wadable flat just across the street, facilitating do-it-yourself bonefishing. This allows the pro angler to hop right out of bed and get in the water; or it provides the novice with a less intimidating atmosphere for literally getting their feet wet in the sport. The brochure boasts and can deliver on the promise of “bone-fishing just 50 paces from your bed”. The adventure, however, has only just begun. There are at least twelve known surrounding bonefish flats. A boat ride and a trained bonefishing guide make all the difference in exploring the surrounding areas. It provides the kind of fishing expeditions that leave guests with some of the best experiences of their lives. The surrounding areas include the neighboring islands such as Crooked Island—another best-kept secret of The Bahamas. A 500-square-mile lagoon known as the Bight of Acklins separates these two islands. Long Cay, Crooked Island’s little sister, was once a bustling port of trade for the southern islands. Once known as Fortune Island, even Long Cay offers something for the adventurous traveler. These islands not only contain virgin land and untapped beauty, they also lend historical value, with the ruins of slave and cotton plantations availing themselves for exploration. The exclusivity of these islands, being some of the southernmost ones in the archipelago, once made them valuable to mariners coming from places like Hispaniola and Cuba. Today, their distance provides

Arnette says guests come to Chester’s as strangers, but always leave as family. Chester’s is also known for great food—fresh and native. Enjoy fine dining at JuNette’s Café & Clubhouse located on property, providing the finest in scrumptious Bahamian cuisine. Favorites include conch fritters, grilled seafood/chicken salads, stew/boiled fish, Julius’ homemade bread and pastries, Valerie’s coconut peas n’ rice with snappers or steamed conch, Arnette’s lobster salad, broiled conch, peas soup ‘n dumplin’, fruit beverages and bush tea… just to name a few! Since the lodge was officially opened in 2005, there have been many highlights for the Chisholms. The lodge once hosted 21 boys from the Boys Choir of The Bahamas, and also hosted a Bahamian cultural display event with special European guests including Julien of France, who watched the plaiting of the maypole and the crab-catching contest.

somewhat of a challenge. Residents have gotten used to the slow pace of life, but as more Bahamians consider “going back to the island” to retire, local government is working on improving the conditions that affect accessibility. Arnette boasts: “Acklins Island is remote… pristine… virgin! We’re the outback at the southern edge of The Bahamas... where all the marine life of the world resides... with absolutely no noise, pollution, traffic, high-rise buildings, ATMs, golf courses or swimming pools!” The sparsely-populated southern islands do offer undeniable charm with miles and miles of untouched beaches, teeming coral gardens for snorkelers, cliffs to climb, caves to delve into, blue holes for swimmers and divers and the most welcoming warm weather. The ocean seems to have a different hue here. It seems as if the sun glistens across the water in shades of coveted gems such as emerald, turquoise and aquamarine. Just relaxing on the beach and beholding the beauty is enough to send even the most uptight personality into the most heavenly daydream. Travelers looking for thrills in deep water fishing and fly fishing can’t have all the fun, though. They must make way for the hikers, kayakers and birdwatchers whose stories of adventure on Acklins Island prove just as much fun. Snorkelers rave about the variety of wildlife in the ocean, while bikers enjoy the cycling trips. A fifteen-minute cycle from Chester’s Lodge takes you to a popular spot for snorkel lovers. Friendly residents trained as guides are on-hand to help make an experience like birdwatching just a little more interesting. Even shell collectors will consider this tropical paradise a true heaven.

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OFF THE BEATEN PATH - ACKLINS

The southern islands of The Bahamas were devastated by the passing of Hurricane Joaquin in 2015, but Chester’s managed to weather the storm without any major damage. The lodge was a sanctuary for residents during hurricanes even prior to the construction of Chester’s Hurricane Shelter. It seems this couple is keeping the Family Island community spirit alive. A guest commented: “Observe and capture the spectacular waltz and flight of exotic birds... flamingoes too! Have lunch with Iguanas!” “Find yourself vulnerable and laughing amid real untrammeled beauty,” said another. We all need a getaway from time to time. But to get away to a place where balmy sea breezes are uninterrupted by blaring car horns, and fast food is as foreign as its guests, is truly a bucket-list kind of experience. Bahamasair and the Ministry of Tourism have partnered to present the “Two Fly Free” promotion in which Chester’s Highway Inn Bone Fish Lodge is a participating resort. Visit www.Bahamas.com and www.ChestersBoneFishLodge.com for more information. UA

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LYNN PAROTTI VISUAL ARTIST Lynn in her London studio

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By Caprice Spencer-Dames Photos by London Photographer Angelo Plantamura

For this January-March issue of Up and Away, Caprice Spencer-Dames was able to spend some time having an interesting and insightful chat over a cup of coffee and pastries with the charming Lynn Parotti at her recent exhibition at The Island House, Nassau. This is part of their chat.

On which island were you born and raised in The Bahamas? I was born at the Princess Margaret Hospital in Nassau, New Providence, in 1968, and grew up spending a lot of time on Rose and Athol Islands, the Exumas and Eleuthera, being very much at one with the sea. You have various interests generally, but are nature and the environment important to you? Tell us about your interests and how they impact your work. My work is all about the environment and always has been, but undoubtedly since 2007 it has been focused on the effects of global warming, namely climate change. Various series include When the Bough Breaks and Inagua—the former exhibited in London and the latter at Popopstudios Centre for the Visual Arts, hosted by John Cox. Impact followed shortly after, again at Popopstudios, and The Force That Through the Green Fuse Drives the Flower in London, both in 2008. Then the installation Tar Baby was shown at the National Art Gallery of The Bahamas in 2010—which focused on sea level rise and the Deepwater

“Natural Indemnity: Mangrovia Multicolore”, 42 x 66inches, 107x168cm, 2019 Horizon oil spill. My most recent exhibition, To the Rising Sun, Bahamaland, was showcased at The Island House in Nassau a month after Hurricane Dorian. Can you remember the first painting you ever sold? What was it? Who was the lucky owner? The late Kit Chambers at the former Lyford Cay Gallery was the first in The Bahamas to show my work. It must have been in the early1990s. I painted a portrait of an Abaco parrot in a lush garden setting, which was purchased by Dawn Davies. Later, in Virginia, a private buyer purchased a water mural while I was working on my graduate degree at Virginia Commonwealth University in 1993. Did you consider yourself an artist after selling your first painting? If not, when did you feel you were going to pursue a life as an artist? My first real memory of being an artist was when I made an Easter card for my parents under the guidance of my Aunt Marie. I must have been four years old. I boiled eggs, crushed up the shells and dyed them, then meticulously reassembled the pieces onto a drawing of a baby chick I had done, creating a little mosaic. I was incredibly proud of it but annoyed that some of the crayon had come “out of the lines” on some of the drawn sections. Lo and behold, the rush of creativity had begun, coupled with the pursuit of unachievable perfection and desire to do better!

“Souvenir”, oil on canvas, 55 x 99inches, 140 x 250cm, 2019

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LYNN PAROTTI

“Natural Indemnity: Mangrovia Gialla”, 50 x 96inches,127x 244cm, 2019 The pursuit of a life as an artist was never formally acknowledged as it was always there. Needless to say, as finances dictated, once I started winning scholarships and places at universities through my art, the deed was done.

“Meltwater II”, oil on canvas, 64 x 90inches, 165 x 230cm, 2019

Apart from creating great works of art, what do you want owners, fans of your work and those who are inspired by your work to take away after being drawn into your works?

idyllic setting of teeming life under the sea in the wonderment of objectified coral of our Bahamaland, whilst others bear witness to the effects of global warming that is happening right before our eyes.

I would like viewers to have a rethink and possible adjustment of their own lives or behaviours after viewing my work. Highlighting the urgency for preparedness for the inevitable increase and ferocity of hurricanes to our and other island nations is top of the list. Some argue that the Anthropocene has arrived and it is too late, but I am an optimist. We have recently borne the effects of sea level rise and storm surge on our northern islands in The Bahamas. Tragically, this will reoccur should we not prepare in the first instance and cut back on carbon emissions in the long-term. Related to this and more constant are the very real threat of coral bleaching and the destruction of our reefs, ecosystems, livelihoods and food source. Some of my paintings are memoirs to the perceived

How does your creative process work? I begin with experience and exploration of a land or sea environment—taking many photos above, under and through water – followed by many hours in the studio making my paintings. At times, I jump right into a new process like etching on aluminum as I also experiment with new media, but for the most part my working practise involves using oil paint on canvas or on linen. “Water” has been the ongoing theme tying all my work together, whether it is the effects of climate change on reefs (Time Under Tension and 2 Degrees C); cost of clean water (Thirst I and Thirst II); the role water played as the vehicle to slavery and

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Art Show, Miami Beach, in December 2019 for 2 Degrees C. This exhibition is being organized through The Current Gallery and Art Center at Baha Mar, where my works are held on consignment as well as being regularly exhibited. Where could we find a piece of your work that has surprised you – “My work is where?” (smile) In The Bahamas you can take a walk through the Baha Mar Resort & Casino and find many of my paintings, particularly in the ESPA spa where I was commissioned to paint all ten large paintings in 2015 and in the Grand Hyatt lobby in 2017. I have numerous pieces in the collections of both the D’Aguilar Art Foundation and Dawn Davies, as well as in many private homes and public spaces such as banks. The most unusual installation is by a buyer in the UK who had run out of wall space and hung my large painting on his ceiling. If you could invite three people to dinner, living or dead, who would they be and why? “Bahamaland: For the Time Being III”, oil on canvas, 28 x 35inches, 72 x 90cm, 2019 imperialism (Slave House), migration and colonialism (The Space Between Want); energy consumption (Green Fuse); or extreme frost (When the Bough Breaks) Where could we find some of your work? My work has been exhibited in many venues in The Bahamas, the UK, the USA and in Italy including the Museum of Latin American Art in Long Beach, California, and the Lenfest Center for the Arts at Columbia University. My full portfolio can be viewed on my website www.parotti.com and new paintings will be on display at The National Art Gallery of The Bahamas from April to August 2020, when I will be having a solo show which I’m calling Inherit the Earth. If you cannot wait until then, you can visit me and The Current team at the SCOPE

I’m not keen on small dinner parties but would have to invite Vincent D’Aguilar, Luciano Pavarotti, Ana Mendieta and Giacomo Puccini to my table of twelve (which would include my husband, John). We would talk about opera, love, betrayal, politics and art whilst drinking some Puligny Montrachet followed by a scrumptious Amarone. We could all elaborate on the innate “drive” and creative individuality that artists have to possess in order to thrive. We would discuss “the machine” that is the art world and the shifts, trends and histories that shape collections, exhibitions and popularity. The same having applied to classical opera in its time, we would smile at humans’ capacity to chase fad, or to empathize, hate, love or maybe even to take action. Finding meaning for our very existence might crop up, as this is perhaps one of the basic tenets of art. That said, we might just end up dancing on the table with all the other guests at this evening as Lord Kitchener belts out the lyrics to Sugar Bum! UA

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DESTINATION CONSERVATION

“Your next stop is a national park” The Leon Levy Native Plant Preserve: Eleuthera

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hen you think of The Bahamas, the first thing that comes to mind is the pretty pink sand beaches, crystal clear water, and the tropical climate. Newsflash! We are so much more than that. There are these special areas, spread across the archipelago that protect the most beautiful, breathtaking places; they also protect an abundance of wild animals and lush plant life, all for a good cause – conservation. These areas are National Parks. The Bahamas National Trust manages and protects 32 National Parks in our 700-island archipelago. As you fly with Bahamasair to your next dream destination, let us tell you a bit about some of the national parks on these islands. We can’t cover all 32 parks in this article, but we can give you a sneak peek of a few of them…just to whet your appetite.

By Bahamas National Trust Photography by BNT, Melissa Groo, Colin Ruggerio, Heather Carey The Wild South: The Inagua National Park

THE LEON LEVY NATIVE PLANT PRESERVE: ELEUTHERA Walk through a lush, world-class botanic garden and see the native forests of The Bahamas. This national park serves as a research center for traditional bush medicine; a facility for the propagation of indigenous plants and trees; and an educational center focusing on the importance of native vegetation to the biodiversity of The Bahamas. Because of the well-maintained forests, and ecosystems here, it also is a haven for wildlife.

Moriah Harbor Cay National Park: Exuma

For more information on the Levy Preserve and directions call (242) 332-3831

THE WILD SOUTH: THE INAGUA NATIONAL PARK Imagine thousands of rosy pink flamingos in a chorus that you can hear from miles away, or flocks of large birds flying over as you gaze across picturesque landscapes. Way down south in our island chain is a very large, remote and almost secretive island. It’s the island of Inagua. Inagua is a nature lover’s dream; we like to call it the ‘wild wild south’. It’s the 2nd largest island in The Bahamas, with a population of only 900 people, most of them living in one township. Everything else makes up the most untamed and fascinating island in the country. It’s home to the largest population of breeding West Indian Flamingos on the planet and these majestic birds share this island with 150+ other species of unique birds. Wild donkeys, bulls, and hogs roam the forests and there are miles of powder beaches that people haven’t stepped on in years. At the tip of the island is the Inagua bonsai forest, where there are trees that are a hundred years old are only a few feet tall. Inhabiting this forest are the cutest owls you’ve ever seen. The Inagua National Park was the key to protecting the flamingos in the early 1960s. As the second national park ever established in The Bahamas, it was instrumental in bringing the population from about 5,000 birds to over 70,000. To visit the Inagua National Park and experience Inagua, please call (242) 339-2125

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MORIAH HARBOR CAY NATIONAL PARK: EXUMA The Exuma Cays are considered to be the most jaw-dropping collection of islands and cays within our larger island archipelago. With over 300 islets and cays to explore, the visitor is spoiled for choice. The Moriah Harbour Cay National Park is a breathtaking and incredibly beautiful land and sea park that is easily accessible from the main airport. It protects pristine beaches, sand dunes, mangrove creeks, and healthy seagrass beds. It’s a hotspot for a variety of birdlife and the mangroves are a vital nursery for juvenile crabs, crawfish, conch, gray snappers, yellowtails, and groupers. Moriah Harbour Cay is an outstanding example of the Bahamian coastal zone and is a must-see national park on Exuma.


Lucayan National Park: Grand Bahama

LUCAYAN NATIONAL PARK: GRAND BAHAMA Nature is the gem of the island of Grand Bahama and the best thing is, it’s all captured in 1 national park. The Lucayan National Park is the 2nd most visited park of the 32 in The Bahamas. It’s home to the longest underwater cave system, all terrestrial ecosystems in The Bahamas and the highly rated and popular Gold Rock Beach, voted the best beach in the Caribbean by USA Today. Spend an entire day, go from underwater caves to native coppice and pine forests, to impressive mangrove creeks and then end your day on the scenic Gold Rock Beach. Boardwalks, bridges, and trails will take you throughout this impressive national park. The Rand Nature Centre and Peterson Cay national parks are also on Grand Bahama. For more information and directions to Grand Bahama national parks call (242) 352–5438

THE FANTASTIC FIVE: THE NATIONAL PARKS OF SAN SALVADOR When Christopher Columbus set sail on his historic discovery journey, the first land he saw and stepped foot on was San Salvador. San Salvador is home to many monuments, ruins, and shipwrecks that directly reflect its rich history. It’s also home to many extremely diverse and fragile ecosystems. The BNT along with the San Salvador Living Jewels Foundation, worked to establish the “Fantastic Five”; five national parks that protect important parts of this marvelous island. These national parks protect critical areas including five memorials that commemorate Christopher Columbus’ arrival in 1492. They also protect the extremely rare and endangered San Salvador Rock Iguana, and nesting sites for thousands of migrating sea birds. Explore miles of secluded beaches, crystal-clear seas, sparkling inland lakes and impressive mangrove habitats, perfect for kayaking and birdwatching. To visit the Fantastic Five, please call (242) 327-9000 We hope you visit one or some of these parks on your next adventure and remember that conservation can easily be included in your next Bahamas vacation. The environment is key to the Bahamian way of life - so many livelihoods depend upon it. To remain healthy a country, we must protect its environment and

The Fantastic Five: The National Parks of San Salvador preserve it for the future. This fact is what inspired the creation of the Bahamas National Trust in 1959 and today, 60 years later, it is still at the heart of what we do. Come and celebrate our birthday with us at one of our 32 parks. To learn more about the BNT and national parks visit www.bnt.bs

UA

Your next destination should be a National Park!

Managing National Parks

Preserving Our Future

Bahamas national Trust, East Bay Street, Nassau, Bahamas

Tel: 242-393-1317

Fax: 242-393-4978

bnt@bnt.bs

www.bnt.bs

#ExploreYourPark january 2020

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242.677.8255 | 954.773.8256 | www.bettermcrbahamas.com


F.A.Q

O U R M O S T F R E Q U E N T LY A S K E D R E A L E S TAT E Q U E S T I O N S PERMANENT RESIDENCY

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any investors in the countr y already call The Bahamas their home but it is easy for Non-Bahamian investor s and homeowners to obtain residency permits. Major international investors and owners of residences valued at BS$750,000.00 or higher are consideration for permanent residence applications. Is it possible for a Non-Bahamian to purchase p r o p e r t y i n T h e B a h a m a s? Ye s . T h e I n t e r n a t i o n a l P e r s o n s L a n d h o l d i n g A c t , provides for the purchase of real proper ty in The Bahamas to Non-Bahamians . Are special permits required to purchase property i n T h e B a h a m a s? Permit s are require d if : T he proper t y is larger than 2 acres, you intend to lease all or a por tion of the property and if the property will be used for commercial development. No permits are required for f irst time home purchases. What is necessary for a person to qualify for P e r m a n e n t R e s i d e n c e? There are several requirements that must be met in order for an individual to be considered by the Board of Immigration for permanent residence in The Bahamas. A hopeful applicant must: a) Be 1 8 y e a r s o r o v e r b) B e o f g o o d c h a r a c t e r c ) H a v e stated on his/her application the desire to reside permanently in The Bahamas and prepared to show evidence of f inancial suppor t.

How long will a permanent residence certif icate r e m a i n v a l i d o n c e I o b t a i n i t? D o e s i t e x p i r e? A Permanent Residence Cer tif icate shall remain in force during the lifetime of the person to whom it is granted, unless revoked. C a n I b r i n g m y w i f e & c h i l d r e n? W i v e s a n d d e p e n d e n t c h i l d r e n (u n d e r a g e 1 8 ) usually resident in a household can be endorsed on the cer tif icate when the original application is made or at a later date, subject to conditions which may be made by the Immigration Board. A r e t h e r e g o o d s c h o o l s f o r m y c h i l d r e n? There are many private & public schools in The Bahamas, including three international schools which of fer the International Baccalaureate program. The Bahamas education system includes primar y education, secondar y education and ter tiar y education.


W H AT T O E X P E C T WHEN VISITING THE BAHAMAS • UBER/LYFT No Uber or Lyft here so if you want to get around, your options are taxis, buses or renting a car. • KEEP LEFT We drive on the left side of the road, so if you plan on renting a car remember to keep left. • CURRENCY Our currency is interchangeable with the US Dollar. 1 U$D = 1 B$D • DEMOGRAPHICS 57 nautical miles off of the coast of Florida, The Bahamas is a 700 island archipelago. Our population is approximately around 390,000. • GOVERNMENT The Bahamas has had over 300 years of stable democracy. The constitution of The Bahamas proclaims the islands as a sovereign democratic state. • FOOD The selection of food options available is diverse. You can find most of your favorite fast food and fine dining restaurants here as well. The Bahamian diet typically includes seafood, as well as tropical fruits, rice, peas, potatoes, mutton, chicken, beef and conch. • BANKING Banking within the islands itself is highly advanced and specialized, with a number of commercial banks, trust companies, and savings banks. • REAL ESTATE It is easy to buy real estate in The Bahamas. Investing $750,000 and higher qualifies the purchaser for permanent residency. Persons with Permanent Residence and their spouses and children have the same rights as Bahamians, except for the right to vote. • TAXES The Bahamas does not levy taxes on Inheritance, Capital Gains, Wealth, Exit or Personal Income. The Bahamas only levies indirect taxes, these include value added tax (VAT), stamp duty, customs & excise duty and stamp duty.


60+ combined years of brokerage experience. Over 2 billion dollars in Real Estate transactions. Experienced property management & appraisals department. We are multi-lingual. Expect Better for Real Estate in The Bahamas.

Better Homes and Gardens Real Estate MCR Bahamas Group Office: 242.677.8255 US Tel: 954.773.8256 The Shoppes of Cable Beach Nassau, Bahamas www.bettermcrbahamas.com


ACKLINS

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ANDROS

THE ABACOS

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BERRY ISLANDS

BIMINI

CAT ISLAND

ELEUTHERA

THE EXUMAS

HARBOUR ISLAND

LONG ISLAND

SAN SALVADOR


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