OFF THE BEATEN PATH Middle Caicos: Ecological, Historical and Magical

By Deandrea Hamilton

Tourist Board

It seems almost suspended over the crystal-clear waters, which once separated the twin islands, but the one-mile-long causeway, which has smartly connected North Caicos to Middle Caicos, is well rooted, having survived hurricanes and providing safe passage for the past sixteen years.

It is a valued gateway into a majestic, magical, historic island where you will be intrigued by coves, cliffs and caves including a delightful spot islanders call the Christmas Room.

The unbridled interest in the Turks and Caicos Islands has led to record tourism activity. The love and intrigue of a luxury Providenciales vacation has opened travellers to the idea of wanting more. That desire has not gone unquenched; in fact, it is taking hundreds of visitors and residents – by ferry – into nearby North and Middle Caicos islands.

Purchase a round trip boat ride to experience the country’s two largest, greenest islands and, in 25 minutes, the historical treasures, fantastically delicious delicacies, amazing vistas and a totally different vibe await and never disappoint.

Once your ferry docks at the brand-new North Caicos port, Bellefield Landing, a rental vehicle can take you on the longest, most adventurous, and picturesque drive through the twin islands.

Middle Caicos is a gentle giant; regal, really, offering an unscripted experience ideal for one or for many. Crowned with coastal mounds so majestic they appeal to the wanderlust of thrill seekers or those looking to hear the world without interruption. These towering figures and their pristine waters below are extremely popular.

Selfie-loving amateurs and the most experienced photographers are often left awestruck by the landscape, ocean views and the opportunities the island continues to deliver, including the possibility to witness the serene passage of humpback whales during the early months of each year.

Once you have taken the lovely but lonely drive into the heart of Middle Caicos, you will park your vehicle in the space reserved for the visitor who makes the decision to venture off the beaten path. You will apply your mosquito repellent because Middle Caicos is larger than North Caicos in many ways, including in its insect population. You will spy the cliff-top restaurant with its resplendent views, but we are betting you will opt for that leisurely climb, mobile phone, or camera in tow, for what will be the experience of a lifetime.

In minutes, you mount what we celebrate as Mudjin Harbour. No need for escalators or elevators, just your grit and a grunt here and there as you trump the turf to the top to behold the beauty. Feel free to sit in solitude, sharing the space with the famous Praying Hands before shuffling back down. The sandy trail takes you to a cave-covered cove, ideal for meditation, relaxation, or a good old-fashioned picnic.

You are going to get into the water, too – after all, who could resist the crashing waves and, on a calm day, the gallant march through the shallows to hang out at the Sleeping Dragon; a rock fixture not too far offshore, which also features a natural hot tub.

Middle Caicos District Commissioner (DC) Ozzie Delancy is beaming with joy at the many treasures being unearthed on his island by people from all over the world.

From one of the country’s loftiest points where you can also find the Mudjin Harbour Bar & Grill, with its exquisite views perfect for star gazing and famous jerk burger, to the series of caves, trails and a boiling hole, which are all well-preserved by the Turks and Caicos National Trust and the good people of Middle; this is a remarkable, indescribable escape.

The Indian Cave and the only active boiling hole in the country are found on the island, which is home to less than 200 people. Explore it!

Wildlife flourishes around the boiling hole, mangroves teeming with life and kayak nature tours to take you on a sunset paddle. According to Delancy, you will need about 45 minutes to enjoy this spectacle.

One of the Caribbean’s longest cave systems is the Conch Bar Cave; it features the Christmas Room which is the darkest area of this mystical three-mile network of stalactites and stalagmites as well as other cave formations. And if you are wondering why this portion of the cave is called the Christmas Room, it is said the acoustics make it ideal for singing, of all things, Christmas carols.

Watch your step and listen intently to your guide and, yes, you will spot bats here and there, and on Middle Caicos, these nocturnal predators are well-behaved, feasting on bugs, cacti, and fruit.

You will want to pre-arrange a tour of this extensive heritage site; the National Trust charges a fee for the escorted experience, which is worth it.

Do not miss your opportunity to dine at Seaview Café – another incredible view, sumptuous cuisine, perfect for beach combing and great shopping. What you buy here will include amazing hand-woven straw craft and native model sailboats, which take to the water every February for the Valentine’s Day Regatta held at Bambarra Beach also in Middle Caicos.

Newly found Fish Curry Pond bears a striking resemblance to Cottage Pond in North Caicos, but it is twice the size according to the DC. This Middle Caicos wonder is also rumoured to be home to mermaids, who will steal you away, according to Ozzie, but remains a terrific spot for more kayaking, which he says he has done many times.

If the mermaid myths scare you off, though, stay on dry ground by taking the Crossing Place Trail; the (minimum) 90-minute hike can be a retrospective trek which can also consume half your day and all your energy.

History explains the trail connected North and Middle Caicos communities when the tide was low enough; hence the name which also proved treacherous in bad weather due to rapidly rising tides.

Middle Caicos has that mysterious lure, especially on Bambarra Beach. Another opportunity to get into the tranquil waters of the Turks and Caicos Islands and wade, the shallow clarity of the ocean here is described as the best of both the “green” islands.

When tide is low, it presents a swashbuckling escapade to Pelican Cay, a tiny island, where legend has it, there is a booty of treasure, which remains undiscovered, hidden away by Pirates in the late 1600s or early 1700s. Can’t find the loot? There is certainly a prize much easier to locate and worth beholding; it is under the water, so get snorkelling!

On the beach, the novelty of the Bambarra Beach Huts is not wearing off; stopping at the huts, built in 2021, is the perfect way for you to support the economy of the small, developing communities of Middle Caicos and easily the best way to dine on savoury native food.

From borrowing a bike to take a refreshing ride, to bird watching where you can find yourself inches away from the long-legged, beautiful, pink Caribbean flamingos who call Middle Caicos home, to numerous new activities, this is postcard perfect.

There is no way to cover the full list of expansive experiences of the twin islands – North Caicos and Middle Caicos – in one single day and the islanders could not be happier about that fact. From a growing list of options in vacation villa rentals, or longstanding hotel properties like the Dragon Cay Resort which offers free Wi-Fi and is pet-friendly, this is at the very least, a two-day jaunt with immeasurable returns. UA