TRENDMAP REPORT, 2018
ETHICS CLAUSE I confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that I have faithfully observed the terms of approval in the conduct of this project.
Victoria Beckham SS18
Signed: ………………………………. Date: ………………………
SS1 ow, The R
N0726294 Trendmap report Word count: 2768
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ROSE TOVELL
contents 05 INTRODUCTION
06 METHODOLOGY 07 TRENDS IN FASHION 08 What is a trend? 09 Trend forecasting 13 Trend theory 15 Role of the media 18 Trend influences 21 CHECK SS18 22 The trend 23 History of check 26 Focus of this season 27 On the catwalk 29 Trend drivers 31 Celebrity influences 33 Other influences 36 Shop safari 39 Street style 45 STYLE SHOOT 46 Inspirational mood board 49 Location 51 Shoot considerations 52 Pen portrait 53 FASHION EDITORIAL 67 CONCLUSION SS18
69 APPENDIX
l Kors,
70 ILLUSTRATIONS
Michea
81 REFERENCES 82 BIBLIOGRAPHY
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Chloe, SS17
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introduction
Fashion is constantly evolving, every season innovative new trends are being implemented in catwalk shows and filtered down into high street stores. Trend forecasting holds principle importance for brands as they want to be the prime fashion destination for their consumers and be able to provide the latest and most stylish products to outperform their key competitors. This report will explain the definition of trend forecasting and carry out an analysis of the significant influences that drive trends and trend forecasting. The role of the media as well as social and cultural influences and their impact on fashion marketing will be investigated to show how they direct future trends. A key womenswear influential trend from spring/summer 2018 (SS18) will then be fully scrutinised by exploring its origins and how its developed into an empowering trend in today’s society. The report will examine how the trend was executed on the catwalk and study how it is currently presented on the high street, as well as looking at how the trend is being styled in the city of Nottingham. Lastly, there will be a visual fashion editorial to show an interpretation of the chosen key trend and examples of how it can be worn.
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methodology This report is compiled of both primary and secondary research. Primary research was conducted in order to develop a deeper understanding of a specific SS18 trend and to show how this trend is being incorporated into high street garments (shop safari) and worn by the public of Nottingham (trend tracking). This research helped gain an understanding of what the trend drivers were and made it apparent what was specifically different about the chosen trend this season compared to previous seasons. Secondary research included investigating trend forecasting databases such as WGSN as it is considered as a “fashion bible� and used by experts in the fashion industry. Secondary research also encompassed reading books and journals to academically support the findings as well as looking at magazines, such as Elle and Vogue, articles, social media and blogs. All of these sources contributed to conclusions regarding trend forecasting, media influencers and how the specific trend was being styled and portrayed.
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TRENDS IN FASHION trend /trɛnd/ noun
1. A general direction in which something is developing or changing.
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what is a trend?
According to the English Oxford Dictionary (2018), a trend is a “general direction in which something is developing or changing.” Trends have become an essential part of the consumer world due to the societal impacts they create, and because of this, they are often responsible for shaping an individual’s choices and behaviour. Focussing more specifically on fashion trends which are described as “aspects of the appearance and construction of fashion products that relate to a particular season” (Jackson, 2007, p170), it is clear to see that both terminologies are used to illustrate a fluid and evolving movement. The foundation for the development of fashion trends comes from two main types of trends – macro and micro. Macro trends are “major shifts in consumer behaviour that will dictate in the long-term, usually lasting 5-10 years” (LS:N Global, 2018). They are very influential in the fashion industry as they can often affect a consumer’s emotional attributes and therefore the style they wish to reflect through their clothing. Examples of macro trends include smart technology, ageing population and health and wellbeing, which are primarily determined from occurrences in society, politics, economics and culture. These are just a small sample of the trends that directly relate to the influence of fashion currently and in the future.
Erdem, SS18
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trend forecasting
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FASHION FORECASTING IS A CREATIVE, CONTINUAL PROCESS USED TO PREDICT THE TRENDS OF UPCOMING SEASONS. IT ALSO INVOLVES A SYSTEMATIC PROCEDURE, INCLUDING INFORMATION GATHERING, MARKET AND CONSUMER RESEARCH, AND ANALYSIS.
- Kim, Fiore and Kim, 2011
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The objective of forecasting a trend is to understand the unpredictability of growth or decline in certain patterns. “Forecasts are usually based on intuition, good judgement and creativity as well as analytical concepts and models to predict forthcoming trends” (Sproles and Burns, 1994). Understanding the change in consumer interests up to two years in advance is essential for businesses as it allows them to provide products and services that are more likely to be purchased in the future. Consumer-centric brands benefit hugely from fashion forecasting as it allows them to design and market clothing that they know their key consumer will want to wear in two to three seasons time, therefore acquiring outstanding rewards. Forecasting is imperative to the fashion and retail industry as it predominantly thrives off developing trends. Designers and retailers aim to provide the most recent trends to consumers and by doing so, they place themselves in a strong position within the market. Studying and targeting trends creates a positive reputation and raises brand awareness for businesses, as well as develops a strong customer loyalty base. Specific brands continue to exceed the competition if they are able to provide and demonstrate rapid trend progression. Specialist fashion forecasting agencies such as WGSN are able to provide immediate online fashion information across the world. The company uses “high-end technology combined with human ingenuity” in order to supply “data, analysis, insights and inspiration to meet the unique needs of today’s global creative industry” (WGSN, 2018). The buyers, designers and marketers within an industry team utilise forecasting agencies such as WGSN for inspiration to develop and build forthcoming collections.
FORWARD THINKING 10
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Versace, SS17
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trend theory Timing is the key to success in the fashion industry. Because of this it is essential that accurate forecasting takes place to allows brands to prepare for and meet consumer demand with products that are accepted and purchased. This can be done using the product life cycle, which shows the upward and downward trajectory of a product based on how much money the product has made in relation to the time the product has been on the market. This is beneficial to retailers as it allows them to predict the sales and profitability of specific styles.
Product Life Cycle
Maturity Decline
Sales
Growth
Introduction
Time - Raymond Vernon, 2010
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TRENDS ARE PROFITS WAITING TO HAPPEN.
- Martin Raymond, 2010
According to Sproles (1979), “fashions are temporary cyclical phenomena adopted by consumers for a particular time and situation.” Furthermore, fashions “evolve consistent with the theoretical product life cycle, having stages of introduction and adoption by fashion leaders, increasing public acceptance (growth), mass conformity (maturation), and the inevitable decline and obsolescence awaiting all fashions” (Sproles, 1981)
Burberry, SS15
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role of the media With “more people than ever using social networks and the vast majority sharing content� (Mintel, 2018), the media plays a principle part in trend prediction, as well as being one of the main influences. In recent years, the influence of trends by the media has considerably changed – traditional forms of media such as magazines, newspapers and television have now become secondary compared to the internet and social media platforms. Conventional fashion journalism has developed into a phenomenon that anyone is capable of due to the ability to blog or vlog online to voice their opinions. Social media is responsible for expanding the range of influence so that the public are now exposed to more of a personal view of the fashion world. Trends are presently shared with consumers in various subcultures leading to trends growing in diversity; outfit inspiration shared on media sites such as Instagram have altered the way trends are adopted. Celebrities and popular fashion leaders hold power to reach and induce trends on a global scale by using their personal social media accounts to communicate their fashion looks and favourite styles with their followers.
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Burberry, SS14
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LARGE SCALE FASHION EVENTS LIKE NEW YORK FASHION WEEK USED TO BE EXTREMELY EXCLUSIVE. BUT NOW, IF YOU HAVE AN INTERNET CONNECTION, YOU CAN FOLLOW IT IN THE COMFORT OF YOUR OWN HOME LOCATED 5,000 MILES AWAY.
- Durmaz, 2014
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trend influences Significant macro trends tend to be one of the many drivers directing the fashion industry. Additionally, culture, the economy, social factors and the environment all have a remarkable influence on fashion trends as well. Cultural influences are divided into three main sources – high, popular and low culture. High culture refers to elite activities such as visual art, auditory art, photography, architecture and design. Conversely, popular culture involves more everyday mainstreamed interactions; highly influenced by celebrities and understood and appreciated by a larger audience. In terms of fashion inspiration, “emotions and ideas stimulated by high culture can later on undergo a further process and lead to new forms of inspirations and concepts, which are later adopted by popular culture” (Into the Fashion, 2010). In a world of fast fashion, there are several environmental issues surrounding the industry. A recent report from Mintel (2018) states “the average amount of times people wear a garment before stopping use is 36% lower than 15 years ago.” This indicates that consumers are buying more products, more regularly and then disposing of them, often in an unsustainable manner. Because of this, brands are attempting to create collections that have longevity and are also eternally seeking the most viable and ethical way to apply a trend to their brand. Buyers in industry need to be aware of where they source their materials from and the quality of working conditions in their manufacturing factories. The movement of conscious consumption has meant that application of trends has been affected as brands now have to ensure their products are made of sustainable fabrics and are manufactured ethically in order to not generate a negative brand image.
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Oslo street style, SS18
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KEY TREND -
CHECK SS18
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the trend
Prabal Gurung, SS18
Spring summer 2018 was a season defined by an increasing synergy between the digital and fashion spheres, where social media was more encompassed than ever. Check is a specific trend that stood out on the SS18 catwalks and has already been adopted by high street retailers. It is a print that has continuously featured on runways year after year due to its versatility and ability to be styled in a variation of ways. “Making up 11% of pattern mix in the Paris, Milan and London catwalks� (WGSN, 2017), check was as prominent as previous years for womenswear. However, it had been reworked in a much bolder way by designers such as Fendi and MGSM, making it better suited to a visually driven generation.
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history of check
1500’s The check print first originated in the 1500s in its most common form of Tartan. Frequently associated with Scotland, the pattern was used in woven fabrics worn by early clansmen and has been embraced by the traditions of the modern Highland regiments and the kilt. Written records from 1538 place the fabric in high esteem amongst royalty, including King James V.
1950’s Check was incorporated into military styled jackets inspired by the Second World War in the 50’s - the print was still mainly worn by the wealthier classes as the fabric was considered to be expensive. Check dresses were also popular, with gathered waists to enhance the female silhouette.
(Atwood, 2014)
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1970’s
1980’s
Queen Elizabeth II’s Royal Stewart Tartan was appropriated by the punk movement in the form of ripped layers and shredded shirts. Spurred by the cultural phenomenon, Vivienne Westwood began to popularise her famously punk-inspired check in 1977, making it a symbol of rebellion once more.
The 1980s proved a pivotal decade for check. Movies such as The Heathers displayed the bold print in a preppy approach, and public figures including Princess Diana exhibited the fabric’s more pristine potential.
New York street style, SS18
1990’s
The checked flannel shirt became the unofficial symbol of the grunge movement in the early 1990s. Bands like Nirvana rocked checks in their signature, grungy fashion. But despite its counterculture reputation, popualar culture was determined to make check both mainstream and characteristic, culminating with the style in Clueless.
TODAY
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Fendi, SS18
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focus of this season The bold print can be seen everywhere this season; perhaps the overarching reason for its popularity is the breadth of the trend. Unlike certain looks that exclude demographics, check can be seen across a plethora of colours, garments, styles and textures. This makes it inclusive to all demographics, psychographics and economic brackets. The outfits featured on the spring summer 2018 catwalks were more audacious than ever and the high street has unquestionably reflected this. Exhibiting the current fashion mood for maximalism, clashing checks and layering have been prevalent this year, unlike before, as fashion has begun to resurface out of its minimalistic years. It appears to be part of a larger fashion renaissance of rich colour and pattern after the domination of simplistic designers in recent years.
Paul Andrews, SS18
Burberry, SS18
From Chanel to Ports, layering several variations of check was prominent this season, with many designers pairing checked clothing with heavily patterned accessories to build up texture and add supplementary dimensions to an outfit. The key prints for womenswear this season include the signature Burberry check, picnic checks, and pastel toned tartans.
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on the catwalk
Looking at the micro details of the materials and silhouettes used, checks were often incorporated into raincoats and outerwear, in the form of lightweight jackets and blazers. This aligns with the “20% increase in checked outerwear� for the SS18 season (WGSN, 2017). Due to new printing techniques, checks were applied to PVC and waterproof materials in order to add a casual touch to the usual formal pattern.
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Loewe, SS18
Ports, SS18
Peter Pilotto, SS18
Other designers such as Tibi opted to go down a more tailored route, using more traditional flannel materials to create a look that echoes traditional British tailoring. It was not abnormal for designers to mix their prints, with Burberry combining their signature check and Royal Stewart tartan for a bold and heritage look. This allowed designers to modernise and add a dramatic touch to tailoring that is more appealing to a younger demographic. Overall the mood was one of individuality due to check’s ability to conjure a variety of aesthetics. Global catwalks still kept their singular identities when interpreting the trend.
Fendi, SS18
Chanel, SS18
28 MSGM, SS18
Sonia Rykiel, SS18
Tibi, SS18
trend drivers As aforementioned, check is a trend that always exists on the catwalk – usually in small amounts – meaning there must be a reason for the popularity of the trend this season. A justification for this may be due to the hypothesis of ‘trickle across’ theory, stating that fashion acceptance begins among several social classes at the same time where “innovators and opinion influencers represent desirable market segments and social strata” (King, 1963). The check trend is present in a wide range of societal groups due to the copious ways the timeless print can be styled; from Prince of Wales check on a double breasted tailored suit to chequerboard checks being incorporated into streetwear. The leaders of each of these groups influence their peers with their fashion decisions.
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Emporio Armani, SS18
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Versace, SS18
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Olivia Palermo
Susie Lau
Kate Middleton
Rosie Huntigton-Whiteley
Jessica Simpson
Lizzy Caplan
Kendall jenner
Ariana Grande
Georgia Fowler
celebrity influences
Gigi Hadid
Kim Kardashian
Rihanna
Some of the most influential fashion celebrities such as Kim Kardashian, Bella Hadid and Rihanna have been seen sporting the print recently. This encourages consumers to purchase clothes featuring check as they appreciate the way the celebrities look and inspire to reflect a similar aesthetic themselves. For example, Burberry’s well-established check pattern has consistently been styled by celebrities this season, making followers inspired to wear it also.
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other influences Due to the prominence of the recent royal wedding and the addition of stylish women such as Meghan Markle into the royal circle, there has been a great amount of public interest in the family, with many wishing to imitate this regal look. According to VT Vogue (2018) “Anything a royal family member wears to a hat, purse, coat or dress is sure to sell out within minutes, be replicated, and become one of the latest, most popular trends in retail.” This has no exception for the check trend – the traditional tartan uniform which holds connotations of British heritage has been modernised by designers and retailers this season by making tartan prints larger and brighter Contrary to the impact of celebrity influence, a survey by DEFY Media revealed that teens and younger millennials “reign You-Tube stars as the most relatable and influential personalities” and rated them “higher than traditional celebrities across a range of characteristics” (Passport, 2015). Social media influencers, such as Alicia Roddy (shown on facing page), greatly encourage trends to flourish and develop as consumers are able to see the ways a garment they may have initially seen as quite intimidating can be styled, making them want to purchase the item. This also cements the prints’ approval in the eyes of a younger crowd who might otherwise find it too historical. Finally, helped by recent films and TV series such as Lady Bird, Kingsman 2, and Peaky Blinders where the print is often seen, the link between popular culture and fashion has allowed the trend to cultivate. A recent Ypulse survey (2018) revealed a huge “23% of millennials admire TV and film actors/ characters” so this influence seems logical.
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TV and Film
Social Media
Royals
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Urban Outfitters
Topshop
River Island
Zara
Topshop
Next
Next
Urban Outfitters
Topshop
Next
Topshop
Urban Outfitters
shop safari Primary research was conducted via a shop safari in Nottingham city centre which helped draw conclusions surrounding which retailers were stocking the trend and in what quantities. Although Zara, Next, Urban Outfitters and River Island commonly stocked the trend, Topshop unquestionably had the widest range of garments and accessories in assorted colours, prints and styles. Topshop is notoriously known for being a high street leader in the fashion industry, translating trends from the catwalks before their key competitors, suggesting that other stores are likely to follow soon. In all stores it was apparent that pleated mini-skirts, blazers and trousers were the most popular garments portraying the print. The colours varied from a classic black and white to bright reds and pinks. Accessories were also widespread, with bum bags and bucket hats in Urban Outfitters and oversized tote bags in Topshop and Next. Across all of the shops visited, there was a clear familiar theme that more is more – maximalism is at its prime.
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Topshop
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Zara
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street style
The streets are penetrating this trend at full force, with each outfit being individually adapted and inspired. A large demographic is adopting this trend as seen in the images, however, in Nottingham specifically, where primary research was conducted, the trend was mainly worn by 18-25-year olds. In New York and Shanghai, layered check is being worn with buoyancy, evidently inspired by the catwalks and in London, full checked suits saturated with bright colours can be seen. Looking more closely at street style in Nottingham (see appendix), the trend isn’t being interpreted in such an overstated way, with check enthusiasts mainly wearing blazers paired with jeans or cycling shorts, as well as windowpane check flared trousers. The Burberry check is also visible – it is mainly styled as streetwear and paired with chequerboard Vans. Conducting a street style analysis was an important process which helped identify how much the check trend was being utilised. This was to gain an understanding of how consumers are portraying the trend, where their influence was coming from and which high street retailers were being fashioned.
London street style, SS18
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New york street style, SS18
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41 Rachel Dykes, Nottingham Topshop employee, 2018
Katie Elkington, Nottingham street style, 2018
Poppy Campen, Nottingham street style, SS18
Olivia Thomas, Nottingham street style, SS18
Aleksandra Tysiac, Nottingham street style, SS18
“ ” “
I AM CURRENTLY REALLY INSPIRED BY SOCIAL MEDIA INFLUENCERS AS THEY PROVIDE ENTIRE OUTFIT IDEAS FROM CLOTHING DOWN TO ACCESSORIES. CHECK IS A PRINT FEATURING IN ALMOST EVERY POST AT THE MOMENT, I LOVE IT!
- Katie Elkington, Interviwee, 2018
TOPSHOP HAS CHANNELLED 90’S INSPIRED LOOKS BY INCORPORATING CHECK INTO EVERYDAY STAPLE PIECES. IT CAN BE SEEN IN RETO-INSPIRED FLARES, ULTRA-FEMININE SKIRTS OR CASUAL, MODERNISED BLAZERS. IT IS A HUGE TREND THIS SEASON.
- Rachel Dykes, Topshop Employee, 2018 42
Gucci, SS18
Burberry, SS18
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Mary Katrantzou, SS18
Balenciaga, SS18
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STYLE SHOOT
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mood board 46
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location From the mood boards it was clear to see that a skate park would be the most suitable and relevant location for the style shoot. However, the main skate park in Nottingham is often exceedingly busy and therefore it was decided to go to a quieter skate park in a village on the outskirts of the city called East Leake. This was the perfect setting for the shoot – as well as being undisrupted by the public, the ramps were additionally painted with huge murals along the sides of them in a graffiti style, reflecting the inspirational mood boards even further. The intended mood of the photo shoot was for it to be playful which was demonstrated through positioning the model in unconventional ways. From the mood board it was evident that many of the angles in this location were shot from below, placing the model in a position of power, which is something that was implemented in the shoot.
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shoot considerations
The style shoot images were shot with the anticipation to be in an editorial for i-D magazine. Throughout its successful 30 years, the magazine has kept street style and youth culture central, which is the what the ambiance of the style shoot represents. Moving away from traditional tailored check, the key pieces for the shoot were chosen to epitomise the younger demographic, similar to those wearing it in Nottingham. With the Burberry check being the staple of many outfits, this is something that was essential to be incorporated into the shoot. However, casual blazers are another top trend for the SS18 season, meaning this was a fundamental item to be included also. After taking a variety of practice shots, it was concluded that the prints often clashed and looked too disorganised, so some outfits would be taken or edited in post-production with a black and white effect to minimise this issue.
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The average i-D magazine reader is around 15-26 years old, both male and female, who most likely live in major cities around the world. “The big-name brands advertised in the magazine indicates that readers with a mid-high salary are being targeted, as well as recent graduates and young professionals within the creative industry” (Morgan, 2014).
pen portrait GENDER: Female NAME: Jess AGE: 21 OCCUPATION: Student, about to graduate with a degree in Photography LOCATION: Camden, London HOBBIES: Reading, socialising with friends over cocktails, going to gigs RELATIONSHIP STATUS: Single, always spending time with friends STYLE: Layered outfit, statement accessories, mainly monochrome, Dr Martens FAVOURITE ARTIST: Arctic Monkeys FAVOURITE SHOPS: Urban Outfitters, Monki, Asos, Vintage Boutiques IDEAL HOLIDAY DESTINATION: Exploring the streets of Venice PERSONALITY: Cheeky, yet sensitive, free, mysterious INTERESTS: Art and fashion, cares about the environment FUTURE ASPIRATIONS; Explore the world with partner DREAM JOB: Fashion Photography for a marketing company
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EDITORIAL
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skater girls do it better ‘Less is more’ no longer exists – from layering to clashing, this print definitely shows no signs of check-ing out in 2018.
Photography Olivia Thomas 1st Stylist Rose Tovell 2nd Stylist Victoria Sutcliffe Hair Nicole Tuso Make-Up Ayisha Tongue Model Lucie Sergeant
Check may not be a newcomer, but its SS18 iteration is bolder and fiercer than ever before; emancipate the power woman within you. Led by some of the most focal designers, check is back with a vengeance this season. Maximalism is no joke when it comes to this print, so release your audaciousness by layering your favourite checks with even more check.
Model wears vintage Burberry bandeau, Topshop skirt £32, Forever 21 jacket £22, YSL bag £770, Vans slip-on shoes £50, Primark sunglasses £3
Model wears vintage Burberry bandeau, New Look skirt £16, Asos shirt £22, Carhartt bag £32, Vans slip-on shoes £50, Primark sunglasses £3
Why not channel your inner grunge vibes by digging out the wellloved Dr. Martens? Or for a more sophisticated demeanour, perfect for cocktail hour, try a gallant Prince of Wales check blazer accompanied with a statement over the shoulder bag. From slim leg trousers to mini skirts, check has definitely got you covered this summer.
Model wears vintage Burberry bandeau, Zara trousers £25, Zara jacket £38, New Look bag £11, Dr. Martens boots £160, Urban Outfitters sunglasses £18
You may have noticed the early adaptors are already rediscovering their Nineties nostalgia checked shirts for the return of this trend. For the adventurous ones amongst us, try pairing a chic Clueless inspired pleated skirt with a modernised take on a Burberry check double breasted blazer – the more print clashing, the better.
When it comes to combining checks, right now the only rule is that there are no rules. Nevertheless, if you’re not sure, then stick to neutrals or the same colour family and be sure to play around with the size and type of checks. Chequerboard checks, picnic checks and windowpane checks are also must-haves right now.
conclusion In conclusion, fashion trends play a vital part in the life cycle of a fashion trend; from high end to high street retailers, the formation of trends constantly keeps fashion evolving. Trend forecasting allows the industry to be fluid and keep consumers engaged with brands, increasing brand loyalty. Developing trends impact consumer behaviour due to consumers being naturally enticed by cultural, social, economic and media influences - this means they are more likely to purchase products which have been derived from these factors. The check trend has a compilation of strong influences from celebrities, social media and television and film, driving it to have a powerful life cycle and encouraging the trend to be shown on the catwalks year after year. It was evident through primary research that high street retailers were stocking the trend profoundly and that the trend has been widely adopted by the younger demographic. The check trend has been fashioned by mainly females, with most of the garments in high street retailers being targeted at this gender. Burberry check is popular this season as well as 90’s inspired co-ordinates with mismatched prints being a highlight of the catwalks. Amongst others, the main stores selling check inspired clothing are Topshop, Zara and Next, a few of the established leaders in the industry. In the future, mass retailers will begin to develop sustainable clothing for their conscious consumers to reduce the impact of fast fashion on the environment. Retailers such as Zara and H&M currently offer exclusive organic clothing for consumers who support ethical factories and manufacturing, meaning other high street fashion brands will begin to follow suit soon. It is important for brands to develop and source trends to cater for their primary consumer in order to enhance their sales and develop a strong brand-consumer relationship. The check trend in Nottingham will continue to grow and develop to be a principal trend throughout the autumn winter 2018 season, as already seen on the catwalks. Due to the popularity of the trend as identified in the street style research, this trend has the potential to furthermore evolve into a dominant benchmark for the fashion industry. Trends are defining our future as consumers will forever long for brands constantly catering and offering new trends.
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appendix Consent forms for Nottingham street style and editorial images
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illustrations Mugler, SS15 Unknown, 2015 (online). Available at: http://www.gotceleb.com/karlie-klossmugler-fashion-show-in-paris-2014-09-27.html/karlie-kloss-muglercatwalk-show-ss-2015-pfw-15 (Accessed May 29th 2018). Marble background Unknown (online). Available at: https://www.123rf.com/photo_59583820_ white-marble-texture-background-pattern-with-high-resolution-marbletexture-background-floor-decorat.html (Accessed May 29th 2018). The Row SS18 Vogue, 2017 (online). Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/springsummer-2018-trends (Accessed May 29th 2018).
Victoria Beckham SS18 Vogue, 2017 (online). Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/springsummer-2018-trends (Accessed May 29th 2018).
Micheal Kors SS18 Vogue, 2017 (online). Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/springsummer-2018-trends (Accessed May 29th 2018).
Chloe SS17 Vogue, 2016 (online). Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/ spring-2017-ready-to-wear/chloe (Accessed May 29th 2018). Catwalk Unknown (online). Available at: http://www.donatellazappieri.it/2016/03/16/ uno-sguardo-alle-tendenze-dalle-ultime-passerelle-aw-201617-che-gioielliindosseremo-per-la-prossima-stagione/?lang=en (Accessed May 29th 2018). Erdem SS18 Unknown, 2017 (online). Available at: https://www.voanews.com/a/londonfashion-week-erdem/4033681.html (Accessed May 29th 2018). Versace, SS17 Vogue, 2017 (online). Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/versaceshow-2017 (Accessed May 29th 2018). 70
Burberry SS15 Harpers Bazaar, 2014 (online). Available at: https://www.harpersbazaar. com/fashion/designers/news/a12806/burberry-unites-brands/ (Accessed May 29th 2018). Burberry SS14 Unknown, 2013 (online). Available at: http://www.iphonehacks.com/2013/09/ burberry-iphone-5s-fashion-show-vide.html (Accessed May 29th 2018). Social media icons Unknown, 2013 (online). Available at: https://geekfairy.co.uk/free-colouredround-social-media-icons/ (Accessed May 29th 2018). Woman in factory Getty Images, 2013 (online). Available at: https://www.gettyimages.co.uk/event/ inside-a-garment-factory-as-government-plans-to-constitute-panel-to-identifystructural-safety-of-garment-factories (Accessed May 29th 2018). Oslo street style 2018 Unknown, 2017 (online). Available at: http://www.harpersbazaar.com. sg/fashion/street-style/oslo-fashion-week-ss18-street-style/?slide=48 (Accessed May 29th 2018). Prabal Gurung SS18 Unknown (online). Available at: http://www.iphonehacks.com/2013/09/ burberry-iphone-5s-fashion-show-vide.html (Accessed May 29th 2018). MacDougall 1164 Unknown (online). Available at: https://macdougallgenealogy.wordpress. com/ (Accessed May 29th 2018).
Check blazer 1950 Unknown (online). Available at: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/330803535108945178/?lp=true (Accessed May 29th 2018).
Vivienne Westwood 1979 Unknown (online). Available at: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/370139663116393067/ (Accessed May 29th 2018).
Princess Diana 1989 Unknown (online). Available at: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/575264552385120878/ (Accessed May 29th 2018). 71
Clueless 1995 Unknown, 2014 (online). Available at: https://www.thecut.com/2014/07/ virtual-closet-from-clueless-is-a-reality.html (Accessed May 29th 2018). New York street style 2018 Unknown, 2018 (online). Available at: https://www.popsugar.co.uk/ fashion/Street-Style-New-York-Fashion-Week-Fall-2018-44571437?utm_ medium=redirect&utm (Accessed May 29th 2018).
Fendi SS18 Unknown, 2014 (online). Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashionshows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/fendi/slideshow/collection#49 (Accessed May 29th 2018). Burberry SS18 WGSN, 2017 (online). Available at:nhttps://www.wgsn.com/content/board_ viewer/#/75405/page/7 (Accessed May 29th 2018).
Paul Andrews SS18 WGSN, 2018 (online). Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_ viewer/#/78407/page/19 (Accessed May 29th 2018).
Ports SS18 Vogue, 2017 (online). Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/ spring-2018-ready-to-wear/ports-1961/slideshow/collection#11 (Accessed May 29th 2018). Peter Pilotto SS18 Vogue, 2017 (online). Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/ spring-2018-ready-to-wear/peter-pilotto/slideshow/collection#40 (Accessed May 29th 2018). Loewe SS18 Vogue, 2017 (online). Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/ spring-2018-ready-to-wear/loewe/slideshow/collection#34 (Accessed May 29th 2018). Sonia Rykiel SS18 WGSN, 2017 (online). Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_ viewer/#/75485/page/9 (Accessed May 29th 2018). 72
Tibi SS18 Vogue, 2017 (online). Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/springsummer-2018-ready-to-wear/tibi-pre/collection (Accessed May 29th 2018).
MSGM SS18 Vogue, 2017 (online). Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/ spring-2018-ready-to-wear/msgm/slideshow/collection#14 (Accessed May 29th 2018). Fendi SS18 Vogue, 2017 (online). Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/ spring-2018-ready-to-wear/fendi/slideshow/collection#45 (Accessed May 29th 2018). Chanel SS18 Vogue, 2017 (online). Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/ spring-2018-ready-to-wear/chanel/slideshow/collection#16 (Accessed May 29th 2018). Emporio Armani SS18 Vogue, 2017 (online). Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/springsummer-2018-ready-to-wear/emporio-armani/collection (Accessed May 29th 2018). Versace SS18 Vogue, 2017 (online). Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/ fall-2018-ready-to-wear/versace/slideshow/collection#11 (Accessed May 29th 2018). Georgia Fowler Harpers Bazaar, 2018 (online). Available at: https://www.harpersbazaar.com. au/fashion/plaid-suit-trend-13869 (Accessed May 29th 2018).
Ariana Grande Unknown, 2017 (online). Available at: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/ article-2755224/School-girl-error-Ariana-Grande-flaunts-toned-midriff-slimlegs-grey-crop-tartan-skirt-knee-socks.html (Accessed May 29th 2018). Kendall Jenner Unknown, 2017 (online). Available at: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/504684701979284294/ (Accessed May 29th 2018). 73
Lizzy Caplan Unknown, 2015 (online). Available at: http://www.zimbio.com/photos/ Lizzy+Caplan/Lizzy+Caplan+Jimmy+Kimmel+Live/N3n2qJybN_s (Accessed May 29th 2018). Jessica Simpson Unknown (online). Available at: http://www.be-mod.com/tartan-plaid/ (Accessed May 29th 2018).
Rosie Huntington Whiteley Harpers Bazaar, 2018 (online). Available at: https://www.harpersbazaar.com. au/fashion/plaid-suit-trend-13869 (Accessed May 29th 2018).
Kate Middleton Unknown (online). Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/ pin/337488565802951168/ (Accessed May 29th 2018).
Susie Lau Vogue, 2017 (online). Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/ginghamcelebrity-trend (Accessed May 29th 2018).
Olivia Palermo Unknown, 2017 (online). Available at: http://www.instyle.com/fashion/ celebrities-wearing-plaid#996261 (Accessed May 29th 2018).
Rihanna Unknown, 2017 (online). Available at: https://www.refinery29. com/2017/10/176260/rihanna-burberry-print-jacket-trend-photo (Accessed May 29th 2018). Kim Kardashian Unknown, 2017 (online). Available at: https://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/entry/ kim-kardashian-flannel-shirt_n_5881178 (Accessed May 29th 2018). Gigi Hadid Unknown, 2017 (online). Available at: http://www.myfatpocket.com/fashion/ trends-style/the-celebrities-are-bringing-dr-martens-back.html (Accessed May 29th 2018). 74
Prince Charles and Camilla Unknown, 2014 (online). Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/ pin/185210603396660142/ (Accessed May 29th 2018).
Meghan Markle Unknown, 2018 (online). Available at: https://www.thescottishsun.co.uk/ news/scottish-news/2230117/meghan-markle-burberry-tartan-coat-soldout-ebay-selling-3000/ (Accessed May 29th 2018). Kate MIddleton Unknown, 2017 (online). Available at: https://www.popsugar.co.uk/fashion/ Kate-Middleton-Miu-Miu-Plaid-Coat-Christmas-Service-2017-44455151 (Accessed May 29th 2018).
Alicia Roddy Instagram @lissyrodyy, 2018 (online). Available at: https://www.instagram. com/p/Bg6ttoQHQsU/?taken-by=lissyroddyy (Accessed May 29th 2018).
Alicia Roddy Instagram @lissyrodyy, 2018 (online). Available at: https://www.instagram. com/p/BirBliaAxi1/?taken-by=lissyroddyy (Accessed May 29th 2018).
Alicia Roddy Instagram @lissyrodyy, 2018 (online). Available at: https://www.instagram. com/p/BiNIJKGg9DQ/?taken-by=lissyroddyy (Accessed May 29th 2018). Ladybird 2017 Unknown, 2018 (online). Available at: https://www.framerated.co.uk/ladybird-2017/ (Accessed May 29th 2018).
Kingsman 2017 Unknown, 2018 (online) Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_ viewer/#/75485/page/9 (Accessed May 29th 2018).
Peaky Blinders 2017 Unknown, 2017 (online) Available at: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/476255729337333206/ (Accessed May 29th 2018). 75
Topshop wall display Tovell, Rose, 2018 (authors’ own image). Accessed May 29th 2018.
Urban Outfitters shorts Tovell, Rose, 2018 (authors’ own image). Accessed May 29th 2018.
Next shopper bag Tovell, Rose, 2018 (authors’ own image). Accessed May 29th 2018.
Next over shoulder bag Tovell, Rose, 2018 (authors’ own image). Accessed May 29th 2018.
Topshop mannequin display Tovell, Rose, 2018 (authors’ own image). Accessed May 29th 2018.
Zara skirt Tovell, Rose, 2018 (authors’ own image). Accessed May 29th 2018.
River Island skirt Tovell, Rose, 2018 (authors’ own image). Accessed May 29th 2018.
Topshop blazer Tovell, Rose, 2018 (authors’ own image). Accessed May 29th 2018.
Urban outfitters hat Tovell, Rose, 2018 (authors’ own image). Accessed May 29th 2018. 76
Topshop jumpsuit Tovell, Rose, 2018 (authors’ own image). Accessed May 29th 2018.
Urban Outfitters hat Tovell, Rose, 2018 (authors’ own image). Accessed May 29th 2018.
Next blazer Tovell, Rose, 2018 (authors’ own image). Accessed May 29th 2018.
Topshop skirt Tovell, Rose, 2018 (authors’ own image). Accessed May 29th 2018.
Zara trousers Tovell, Rose, 2018 (authors’ own image). Accessed May 29th 2018.
London street style SS18 Unknown, 2017 (online). Available at: http://www.globalblue.com/ destinations/uk/london/top-street-style-at-london-fashion-week-mens-ss18 (Accessed May 29th 2018). New York street style SS18 WGSN, 2018 (online). Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_ viewer/#/77454/page/1 (Accessed May 29th 2018).
Nottingham street style SS18 Tovell, Rose, 2018 (authors’ own image). Accessed May 29th 2018.
Nottingham street style SS18 Tovell, Rose, 2018 (authors’ own image). Accessed May 29th 2018.
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Nottingham street style SS18 Tovell, Rose, 2018 (authors’ own image). Accessed May 29th 2018.
Nottingham street style SS18 Tovell, Rose, 2018 (authors’ own image). Accessed May 29th 2018.
Topshop employee Tovell, Rose, 2018 (authors’ own image). Accessed May 29th 2018.
Skatepark Tovell, Rose, 2018 (authors’ own image). Accessed May 29th 2018.
Style shoot practise - colour Tovell, Rose, 2018 (authors’ own image). Accessed May 29th 2018.
Style shoot practise - black and white Tovell, Rose, 2018 (authors’ own image). Accessed May 29th 2018.
Model pose Unknown, 2013 (online). Available at: http://visualoptimism.blogspot. com/2013/06/skatepark-of-lake-forest-farah-holt-by.html (Accessed May 29th 2018). Graffiti skatepark Unknown (online). Available at: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/360147301430857594/(Accessed May 29th 2018).
Joeseph SS18 Vogue, 2017 (online). Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/ pre-fall-2018/joseph/slideshow/collection (Accessed May 29th 2018).
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Asos check suit Asos, 2018 (online). Available at: http://www.asos.com/oasis/oasis-doublebreasted-check-blazer/prd/9072498 (Accessed May 29th 2018).
Girl in skatepark WGSN, 2017 (online). Available at: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/455426581049544568/?lp=true (Accessed May 29th 2018).
Model pose Unknown, 2013 (online). Available at: http://visualoptimism.blogspot. com/2013/06/skatepark-of-lake-forest-farah-holt-by.html (Accessed May 29th 2018). Girl in skatepark Harpers Bazaar, 2014 (online). Available at: https://www.harpersbazaar.com. au/fashion/bassike-resort-2015-lookbook-7604 (Accessed May 29th 2018).
Burberry SS18 Vogue, 2017 (online). Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/thomasburberry-iconic-check (Accessed May 29th 2018).
Model pose Unknown, 2012 (online). Available at: https://www.trendhunter.com/trends/ maaike-klaasen-elle-dutch (Accessed May 29th 2018).
Girl in skatepark Unknown, 2017 (online). Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/ pin/695946948638888074/ (Accessed May 29th 2018).
Check print Unknown (online). Available at: http://www.lolly5000.com/product/slinkysilk-satin-bias-cute-slip-dress/ (Accessed May 29th 2018). i-D logo Unknown, 2017 (online). Available at: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/ File:I-D_Magazine_Logo.svg (Accessed May 29th 2018). Editorial 1 Tovell, Rose, 2018 (authors’ own image). Accessed May 29th 2018. 79
Editorial 2 Tovell, Rose, 2018 (authors’ own image). Accessed May 29th 2018.
Editorial 3 Tovell, Rose, 2018 (authors’ own image). Accessed May 29th 2018.
Editorial 4 Tovell, Rose, 2018 (authors’ own image). Accessed May 29th 2018.
Editorial 5 Tovell, Rose, 2018 (authors’ own image). Accessed May 29th 2018.
Editorial 6 Tovell, Rose, 2018 (authors’ own image). Accessed May 29th 2018.
Editorial 7 Tovell, Rose, 2018 (authors’ own image). Accessed May 29th 2018.
Editorial 8 Tovell, Rose, 2018 (authors’ own image). Accessed May 29th 2018.
Editorial 9 Tovell, Rose, 2018 (authors’ own image). Accessed May 29th 2018.
Versus Versace SS18 Vogue, 2017 (online). Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/ spring-2018-ready-to-wear/versus-versace/slideshow/collection#1 (Accessed May 29th 2018). 80
references ATWOOD, T., 2014. How did plaid become popular? A brief and grungy fashion history [online]. Bustle. Available at: https://www.bustle.com/articles/20343-how-did-plaid-become-popular-abrief-and-grungy-fashion-history [Accessed 17 May 2018]. BROUMPHREY, S. and BREHMER, Z., 2017. Megatrend analysis: putting the consumer at the heart of business [online]. Euromonitor. Available at: http://go.euromonitor.com/rs/805-KOK-719/ images/wpMegatrendAnalysis.pdf [Accessed 17 May 2018]. MORGAN, C., 2014. i-D magazine demographics [online]. Available at: http://chenellemorgan. myblog.arts.ac.uk/files/2014/03/i-D-Magazine-Demographics.pdf [Accessed 17 May 2018]. DURMAZ, L., 2014. The role of social media in the fashion industry: How fashion blogging encourages two-way symmetrical communication. ELSTER, J., 2015. [online]. Passport. Available at: https://www.portal.euromonitor.com/portal/ analysis/tab [Accessed 17 May 2018]. HINES, T., and BRUCE, M., 2007. Fashion marketing. Oxford: Routledge. KIM, E., FIORE, A.M. and KIM, H., 2013. Fashion trends. US: Bloomsbury UK. KING, C.W., 1963. Fashion adoption: A rebuttal to the’trickle down’ theory. Toward Scientific Marketing, 1963. LS:N GLOBAL, 2018. Macro trends [online]. Available at: https://www.lsnglobal.com/macro-trends [Accessed 17 May 2018]. OXFORD DICTIONARY, 2018. Definition of trend [online]. . Available at: https://en.oxforddictionaries. com/definition/trend [Accessed 17 May 2018]. RAYMOND, M., 2010. The trend forecaster’s handbook. Laurence King. REYNOLDS, A., 2018. Social and media networks - UK [online]. Mintel. Available at: http:// academic.mintel.com/display/859203/ [Accessed 17 May 2018]. SENDER, T., 2018. London Fashion Week calls for industry to be more sustainable [online]. Mintel. Available at: http://academic.mintel.com/display/884995/?highlight [Accessed 17 May 2018]. SPROLES, G.B., 1979. Fashion: Consumer behavior toward dress. Burgess Publishing Company. SPROLES, G.B., 1981. Analyzing fashion life cycles: principles and perspectives. Journal of Marketing, 45 (4), 116-124. SPROLES, G.B., and BURNS, L.D., 1994. Changing appearances: Understanding dress in contemporary society. Fairchild Publications. VT VOGUE, 2018. [online]. . Available at: https://vtvogue.com/2017/12/30/the-royal-familyinfluence-on-fashion/ [Accessed 17 May 2018]. 81
WALTERS, P., SEARS, K. and GASPAR, S., 2017. Catwalk analytics SS18: Print and graphics [online]. WGSN. Available at: https://www-wgsn-com.ntu.idm.oclc.org/content/board_ viewer/#/75783/page/5 [Accessed 17 May 2018]. WGSN, 2018. About WGSN [online]. WGSN. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/en/wgsn/ [Accessed 17 May 2018]. YPULSE, 2018. The top things milennials and gen z have discovered because of influencers [online].Available at: https://www.ypulse.com/post/view/what-have-influencers-actuallyconvinced-young-consumers-to-check-out [Accessed 17 May 2018].
bibliography BOOKS:
BRANNON, E.L., 2010. Fashion forecasting. Fairchild Books New York, NY. CHOI, T., HUI, C. and YU, Y., 2013. Intelligent fashion forecasting systems: Models and applications. Springer. JACKSON, T., and SHAW, D., 2008. Mastering fashion marketing. Palgrave Macmillan. MCKELVEY, K., and MUNSLOW, J., 2009. Fashion Forecasting. Hoboken: John Wiley & Sons, Incorporated.
ARTICLES: Fashion trends. 1995. Marketing News, 29(11), pp. 4. FRASER, B.P., and BROWN, W.J., 2002. Media, celebrities, and social influence: Identification with Elvis Presley. Mass Communication & Society, 5 (2), 183-206. GIVHAN, R., 2011. Fashion Trends. Newsweek, 158 (25). TSARENKO, Y., FERRARO, C., SANDS, S. and MCLEOD, C., 2013. Environmentally conscious consumption: The role of retailers and peers as external influences. Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, 20 (3), 302-310.
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BRYANT, T., 2018. Stylists predict the biggest fashion trends of 2018 [online]. Nylon. Available at: https://nylon.com/articles/fashion-trend-predictions-2018 [Accessed 19 May 2018]. BURNLEY, E., 2018. 10 trends everyone will be wearing in 2018 [online]. Vogue. Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/10-trends-to-try-in-2018 [Accessed 19 May 2018]. Clothes to Die For, 23:20 22/07/2014 [TV], BBC2 England, 60 mins. https://learningonscreen. ac.uk/ondemand/index.php/prog/076CFF0D [Accessed 19 May 2018]. CHLOE ROSE, 2018. i-D editorial [online]. . Available at: http://www.chloerose.com.au/editorial/ [Accessed 19 May 2018]. ECOCHELLA, 2017. How to be a conscious consumer in a world of fast fashion [online]. Coastalong. Available at: http://www.coastalongfestival.com/blog/2017/3/6/how-to-be-aconscious-consumer-in-a-world-of-fast-fashion [Accessed 19 May 2018]. FARESIN, N., 2018. Trend Forecasting [online]. NTU NOW. Available at: https://now.ntu.ac.uk/d2l/ le/content/484739/viewContent/2529528/View [Accessed 19 May 2018]. FASHION MODEL DIRECTORY, 2018. Editorials of i-D [online]. . Available at: http://www. fashionmodeldirectory.com/magazines/id/editorials/page/3/ [Accessed 19 May 2018]. GOLEMBE, N., 2012. Trickle across theory [online]. Prezi. Available at: https://prezi.com/ hwubnzqfkkxo/trickle-across/ [Accessed 19 May 2018]. GORDON, G., 2017. Understanding the (surprisingly short) life cycle of a fashion trend [online]. Saviour Flair. Available at: https://www.savoirflair.com/fashion/237591/fashion-decoded-lifecycle-fashion-trend [Accessed 19 May 2018]. KHATKAR, N., 2016. Fashion Trends Report and Visual Recreation [online]. Issuu. Available at: https://issuu.com/navkhatkar/docs/nkhatkar_20fashion_20map [Accessed 19 May 2018]. KISSANE, B., 2017. Top three trends shaping the global apparel and footwear industry [online]. Euromonitor Blog. Available at: https://blog.euromonitor.com/2017/11/fast-fashion-trendsapparel-industry.html [Accessed 19 May 2018]. LYON, S., 2018. The evolution of fashion journalism from print to digital [online]. FG Magazine. Available at: http://www.thefashionglobe.com/the-evolution-of-fashion-journalism [Accessed 19 May 2018]. MINTEL, 2016. Youth fashion - UK [online]. . Available at: http://academic.mintel.com/ display/807947/?highlight#hit1 [Accessed 19 May 2018]. PITHERS, E. and HOBBS, J., 2018. The top trends of spring/summer 2018 [online]. Vogue. Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/spring-summer-2018-trends [Accessed 19 May 2018]. SCHIMMINGER, M., 2017. 16 patterned pieces to keep your wardrobe in check [online]. Fashion Spot. Available at: http://www.thefashionspot.com/style-trends/776897-checks-and-plaids/#/ slide/1 [Accessed 19 May 2018]. SULLIVAN, C., 2010. A brief history of the check pattern [online]. Ezine Articles. Available at: http://ezinearticles.com/?A-Brief-History-on-the-Checkered-Pattern&id=4803864 [Accessed 19 May 2018]. WGSN, 2018. WGSN Website [online]. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/ [Accessed 19 May 2018]. 83
ROSE TOVELL N0726294 Trendmap report Word count: 2768