BLACKWORK EMBROIDERY
EVENING WEAR PORTFOLIO
SUBMITTED TO: MR. DARSHAN CHANDEKAR FACULTY
SUBMITTED BY: ROSHIKA ARORA UGFD- LEVEL II- B
CONTENTS 1.
BLACKWORK EMBROIDERY
2.
HISTORY
3.
STYLES OF BLACKWORK
4.
PEOPLE AND CLOTHING
5.
GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION
6.
COLOR BOARD
7.
FABRIC BOARD
8.
EXPLORATIONS
9.
FINAL RANGE
10. PROCESS 11. PHOTOSHOOT 12. TECH PACK
BLACKWORK EMBROIDERY
BLACKWORK EMBROIDERY Blackwork embroidery is a very old form of embroidery. Because many of the designs are geometric it is most often stitched on an even-weave fabric. Despite the name "Blackwork" it was also done in blue, green, gold or silver. The original purpose of Blackwork was for costume adornment. Any black thread can be used, but firmly twisted threads give a better look than embroidery floss. Traditionally blackwork is stitched in silk thread on white or off-white linen or cotton fabric. Sometimes metallic threads are used for accents. The interesting texture of this embroidery method makes it an excellent technique for filling large areas.
(Photo shows Elizabeth I wearing Blackwork sleeves, stomacher, and collar (beneath a sheer linen ruff). The design has large flowers filled with geometric patterns.)
HISTORY The Moors in North Africa were decorating their garments with motifs and borders. The Moors moved into southern Spain in the 8th century influencing the needlework of Toledo, Almeria, and Andalusia. In the Andalusia region, the designs were very geometric using one color, but not necessarily black. A tan or blue embroidery on a natural linen was common in the Toledo region. Most sources credit Katharine of Aragon for introducing Blackwork to England when she came to marry King Henry VIII. It was traditionally embroidery in black silk on white linen for clothing. Because Katharine was from Spain, it was known as "Spanish work" for about fifty years. This embroidery method was used in the Renaissance during the 16th century to decorate clothing because it was against the law for certain classes of people to wear lace.
HISTORY Embroidery was also a sign of wealth that the wife didn't have to do hard labor. The woman showed off her skill and the man showed off that the household could afford the expensive materials of linen and silk. Furthermore, embroidered clothing was a sign of love and affection to remain in each other's thoughts. During this period, only the elite wore such attire. While the garments were simple in shape, they were embroidered with gold and silk. Blackwork was not only decorative, but served a purpose to reinforce cuffs and hems. The embroidery thread was often a dark color to help disguise dirt. Blackwork was a wonderful way to decorate cuffs and collars as the design can be worked so that it is the same on the top and on the bottom of fabric.
HISTORY The male dress was unique as it was designed to create bulk and thereby a sense of masculinity through the use of many layers. The men’s’ shirts were very expensive and often worn open. Even if you were of the means to afford to embroider your own clothing, an Act of Parliament in 1553 forbid anyone below the level of knight to wear pleated shirts or plain shirts garnished with silk gold, or silver. The gold embroidery thread was called silver-gilt. It was made by coating a silver wire with a thin sheet of gold. The wire was hammered into strips which were then wrapped around silk thread. After Katharine’s divorce from King Henry in 1533, the term "Spanish work" was replaced with "Blackwork". A very important event for needle workers occurred in the 16th century. Queen Elizabeth encouraged the improvement of book production. By the 18th century Blackwork started to fall out of use and never really got established in America.
STYLES OF BLACKWORK Historically, there are three common styles of blackwork: Linear Free form with geometric fill Outlined free form The popularity of each form had its own time in British history with blackwork falling mostly out of favor around the 18th century, however all were present in Islamic stitching prior to Katherine of Aragon’s marriage to Henry VIII and the introduction of “Spanish Work” to the English Court. Linear came first, then the free form with geometric fill, and, finally, the outlined free form. Linear Blackwork: Typically the double running or backstitch is the stitch of choice. The work is most likely reversible and found on collars, cuffs, and other smaller spaces. Blackwork in Free Form with Geometric Fill: This second most popular form of blackwork was typically a larger design, perhaps a coif, sleeping cap, sleeve, or foreskirt. The designs were most often flowers and leaves that would have a geometric fill. Outlined Free Form Blackwork Embroidery: This is very similar to the free form with geometric fill. However the free form patterns are scattered and rather stand alone in nature. These are little straight stitches that reflect the markings found on patterns. In the designs seed stitches are a good way to increase or decrease shading.
Linear blackwork on the cuff Blackwork Cuff as Painted by Hans Holbein
Blackwork stitching on sleeve Blackwork in free form with geometrical fill
Blackwork Coif Outlined free form Blackwork
PEOPLE AND CLOTHING
GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION Elizabeth’s House
COLOR BOARD
MOTIFS OF BLACKWORK
PATTERNS OF BLACKWORK
EXPLORATIONS
EXPLORATIONS
FINAL RANGE
FINAL RANGE
FINAL GARMENT ILLUSTRATION
PROCESS
PHOTOSHOOT
TECH PACK
CONTENTS
1. STYLE SHEET 2. CONSTRUCTION SHEET 3. MEASUREMENT SHEET 4. FABRIC SHEET 5. ARTWORK SHEET 6. TRIM SHEET 7. COST SHEET
STYLE SHEET
SEASON: Spring/summer
STYLE: RA-08
SIZE: OWN SIZE
FABRIC: Cotton Lycra
DESCRIPTION: Dress
RANGE: Women’s
CONSTRUCTION SHEET
SEASON: Spring/summer
STYLE: RA-08
COLOR: White, Black
FABRIC: Cotton Lycra
THREAD: DTM Ground
RANGE: Women’s
Embroidered collar Concealed Zip Embroidered cuff
Black Panel, with embroidery detailing
High-Low Hem
MEASUREMENT SHEET
SEASON: Spring/summer
STYLE: RA-08
COLOR: White, Black
FABRIC: Cotton Lycra
DESCRIPTION: Dress
SIZE: OWN SIZE
POINTS OF MEASUREMENT
ROUND BUST ROUND WAIST ROUND HIP BACK WIDTH CHEST WIDTH/ ACROSS CHEST SHOULDER BUST SPAN NECK CIRCUMFERENCE NAPE TO WAIST HSP TO BUST POINT NAPE TO AMHOLE DEPTH WAIST TO HIP WAIST TO KNEE WAIST TO FLOOR
Size- OWN SIZE 79cm 61cm 88cm 33cm 32cm 11.5cm 17.8cm 32cm 35cm 23cm 17cm 19cm 54cm 91cm
FABRIC SHEET
SEASON: Spring/summer
STYLE: RA-08
DESCRIPTION: Dress
RANGE: Women’s
FABRIC : COTTON LYCRA COLOR: WHITE PRICE : Rs. 350 /MTR
FABRIC : COTTON LYCRA COLOR: BLACK PRICE : Rs. 400 /MTR
FABRIC : VISCOSE LYCRA COLOR: WHITE PRICE : Rs. 250 /MTR
ARTWORK SHEET
SEASON: Spring/summer
STYLE: RA-08
DESCRIPTION: Dress
RANGE: Women’s
ON THE BACK PANEL
BLACK THREAD EMBROIDERY
ON CUFF AND COLLAR
TRIM SHEET
SEASON: Spring/summer
STYLE: RA-08
DESCRIPTION: Dress
RANGE: Women’s
Supplier: Coats Price: 10 Quantity: 1 Length: 120 mts Color: WHITE
Supplier: Dee Zips, Govindpuri Price: 25 Quantity: 1 Length: 25” Color: WHITE
COST SHEET STYLE: RA-08
SEASON: Spring/summer
SUGGESTED RETAIL: Rs. 9134
MATERIAL
COST/METER
FABRIC CONSUMPTION
CONSUMPTION COST
COTTON LYCRA
Rs. 350
2 MTRS
Rs. 700
COTTON LYCRA
RS.450
0.5 MTRS
RS. 225
VISCOSE LYCRA
RS.250
2 MTRS
RS. 500
TOTAL MATERIAL COST: Rs. 1425
TRIMS
COST
CONSUMPTION
CONSUMPTION COST
ZIPPER
Rs. 25
1 Piece
Rs. 25
THREAD
Rs. 10
Avg. Consumption 1 Roll
Rs. 10
TOTAL TRIMS COST: Rs. 35 EMBROIDERY COST: Rs. 2000
TOTAL: Rs. 3460
STYLE: RA-08
TOTAL MATERIAL COST: Rs. 1425 TOTAL TRIMS COST: Rs. 35 EMBROIDERY COST: 2000
TOTAL: Rs. 3460 MISCELLANEOUS: 10% TOTAL COST: Rs. 3806 PROFIT: 20% COST PRICE: 4567 MARK UP: 100% MRP: Rs. 9134
SEASON: Spring/summer
SUGGESTED RETAIL: Rs. 9134
BIBLIOGRAPHY http://www.pinterest.com/pin/435371488947016867/ http://www.pinterest.com/pin/370421138071770039/ http://www.pinterest.com/pin/512777107544279639/ http://www.english.cam.ac.uk/cmt/?page_id=2630 http://www.pinterest.com/pin/325596248031166773/ http://www.angelfire.com/nd2/spanishdress/id25.htm https://thepragmaticcostumer.wordpress.com/category/fashion-history/pre-1600/ https://stitchesoftime.wordpress.com/category/blackwork/ http://www.goldingcraft.com/blackwork.htm http://ookaboo.com/o/pictures/topic/12351375/Blackwork_Embroidery https://thepragmaticcostumer.wordpress.com/tag/panniers/ http://www.embroidery-methods.com/blackwork.html http://www.nordicneedle.net/stitching-techniques/blackwork-embroidery/ http://www.pinterest.com/pin/548102217121717185/ http://www.pinterest.com/pin/319192692311157200/ http://www.pinterest.com/pin/548242954610445004/ http://www.pinterest.com/pin/204280533070815506/ http://www.pinterest.com/pin/463800461598679245/ http://www.pinterest.com/pin/191543790376903460/