Craft study project

Himachal Pradesh : A Paradise On Earth

Himachal, also known in the ancient scriptures as Dev Bhoomi - the Land of Gods, is a place of immense natural beauty and spiritual calm.

Primarily a mountain country, Himachal is endowed with cool and clear lakes, lofty mountains, ancient and beautiful temples and of course people who are as innocent as nature itself.

Himachal Pradesh is known for Eco-friendly environment, breathtaking natural scenery, culture, history, Wild life, Adventure Sports, rich traditions, warm and hospitable people and a variety of fairs, festivals and celebrations throughout the year.

Himachal is a land of unique traditions and contrasts. The handlooms and handicrafts are integral part of Himachal's cultural tradition. Each area has its own distinct dialect and crafts.

Kullu : Valley of Gods

Kullu is a broad open valley formed by the Beas river between Manali and Largi.

This valley is famous for its temples, beauty and its majestic hills covered with Pine and Deodar Forest and sprawling Apple Orchards.

Himachal’s handicraft has admirers from all around the world. They are famous for its traditional, ancient designs and its unique craftsmanship and among them all “Kullu Shawls” hold most elite position.

Culture & Lifestyle of Kullu Valley The fairs, customs, food habits, beliefs, attire and occupation explicate the hard-earned lifestyle of the aborigines. The people of Kullu believe in simple living and perseverance.

The fairs and festivals celebrated in the valley are an indispensable part of the native ethos. These vibrant fairs carry great religious and economic importance for the people here.

The customs and rituals practiced in the valley depict the simple lifestyle of the natives, living close to Nature.

Kullu Shawls

Kullu Shawls occupy a place of pride among the handlooms of Kullu.

Kullu Shawls are well known all around the world for its simple and elegant designs and its fine woolen fabric and manufacturing quality.

Kullu shawls are extremely beautiful, made with striking geometrical patterns and vibrant colors.

HISTORY OF KULLU SHAWLS During the pre-independence era clothes from industrialized regions couldn't reach the valley due to lack of transportation facilities. As Kullu Valley falls under temperate Himalayan region, the cold climate prevalent is suitable for sheep and goat rearing; this also fulfills the necessity for woolens. Initially the people of Kullu used to weave Patti which is 18'', 20'' or 22'' wide, and having an appropriate length. They wove it to 8 fulfill the bare necessity of covering their body and protecting themselves of severe cold. Menfolk wove Patti for coats and suthan (pyjamas) and women used it as Pattus for themselves. Men also made caps out of Patti, which was originally, woven in natural colors of wool i.e. black, white and grey. Until 1936 pattus were made on the pitloom, but after that handlooms came into way, this probably happened because of British influence. When weavers from Bushehar (Shimla) came to the valley in early 1940's their craft influenced the people of Kullu Valley. The weavers of Bushehar were acquainted with the geometrical designs, which they successfully used on Pattus.

In 1942 when Indian film star Devika Rani, daughter-in-law of famous Russian painter Nicholas Roerich, came to Kullu. She took a zealous interest in the looms and it was at her request that Sh. Sheru Ram of Banontar village fashioned the earliest urban size shawl (72" x 36"). On being inspired from Mr. Sheru Ram, Pt. Urvi Dhar started manufacturing shawls commercially.

The advent of synthetic threads in Kullu too dates back to 1940's when Busheheras came to the valley. As there weren't any spinning mills in the valley, weavers started importing yarn from Ludhiana (Punjab) and used them in pattus and shawls. Most of these are being imported even today.

In 1957 Kullu Shawl Improvement Center opened up in the valley and Mr. Devi Prakash Sharma joined there as a technician. He developed diverse designs, visited the various co-operative societies and individual weavers and gave them new designs.

With time shawls are now being manufactured in a wide variety of patterns and the use of vegetable dyes, which augment an exotic array of subdued colors in apricots, ochre, rusts, browns, olives and many more, is in vogue.

Kullu shawls have geometrical designs on both ends. Besides geometrical designs, the shawls are also woven in floral designs, which may run all over, on the corners or on the borders only.

Each design may have one to 8 colors.

Mill spun yarn dyed in various colors is used for the ground, while a vast range of acrylic colors is used for the pattern in the border. These shawls are available in Sheep Wool, Angora, Pashmina, Yak Wool and handspun material. The yarn used may be chemically dyed or vegetable dyed. Price of any shawl depends upon quality of wool and the number and width of patterns used in it.

Owing to the high cost of labour involved in the sorting of fine pashmina fiber, the shawls prepared from pashmina wool are expensive.

Price of any shawl depends upon quality of wool and the number and width of patterns used in it.

Owing to the high cost of labour involved in the sorting of fine pashmina fiber, the shawls prepared from pashmina wool are expensive.

Other Products •Pattus: Pattus were originally made as an item of practical clothing for women to wear during the winter season. They are larger and thicker than a shawl and worn in the fields and in the home. Pattus with colorful and intricate designs are worn at festivals and for special occasions.

•Socks: Made from local wool, they keep the feet warm during winters.

•Caps: Kullu caps are not worn on the head centrally. Instead they are set at a slight angle, adding to the character of man and traditions of the Kullu valley.

COLOR PALETTES: TRADITIONAL AND CONTEMPORARY DIVERSIFICATION Each design may have one to 8 colors.

Traditionally, bright colors, viz. red, yellow, magenta pink, green, orange, blue, black and white were used for patterning and white, black and natural grey or brown were used as the base in these shawls.

But in the present times keeping in mind the customer demand, these bright colors are being replaced gradually by pastel colors.

RAW MATERIALS USED IN KULLU SHAWLS Merino Wool Natural fair fleece- ends, imported from Australia are cleaned, carded and spun at the spinning mills at Ludhiana, Amritsar, Panipat, Kullu, etc. The fiber is soft and well in worth.

Local Wool This is the wool acquired from sheep bred in Himachal Pradesh.

Pashmina Wool This wool is taken from the under belly of the Pashmina goat existing in Tibet. The shawls woven from Pashmina range from a fine to super- fine quality. They are pure and light, yet tremendously warm. Owing to the high cost of labor involved in the sorting of fine Pashmina fiber they are pretty expensive but trendy.

Angora Wool This is the wool of the Angora rabbit, procured from the local Angora breeding farms.

Staple Yarn: Cotton fiber, used as warp.

Acrylic Yarns: Synthetic wool, used in making patterns.

Vegetables color dye

PROCESS OF MAKING OF KULLU SHAWLS DYING Most of the Master Weavers purchase dyed yarn directly from mills. For those who bought nondyed yarn from the mills, it will be done at dye house maintained by a private businessman. The process of dyeing is modernized and using good colours leading to colour fastness.

Designing Designing is entirely done at cluster level. Most of the designers develops designs on his own as per the inputs given by master weavers and traders.

Prior to early forties plain shawls were in fashion in the valley. With the arrival of Bushehras from Rampur Busheher (Shimla), the native weavers took to patterning shawls. The initial designs that were geometrical in outline basically depicted local flora and fauna. The colors, usually intense, perhaps endeavour to portray the Kulluites' enthusiasm for life.

Weaving The tradition of Wool weaving in Himachal Pradesh is of very ancient origin. Its exquisite textiles woven in tapestry weave over a twill ground in natural shades of wool .The hand weaving is done by the weavers at home and mostly men are involved in the process. The four pedal looms are used for the weaving. The commonly practiced weave for commercially sold Kullu shawls is the twill weave whereas the fabric woven for personal use is mostly woven on the traditional pit looms the simple weave is used to make the fabric. We at Kullu Karishma however weave in a number of weaves ranging from simple weave when designer yarn is used to twill weave for the plain shawl to twill weave to diamond twill or their combinations to weave yardage using angora, eri silk/tussar, local wool or Merino wool which can be handspun or machine spun on a woollen, cotton or silk/tussar warp. A single weaver can weave from one meter to five meters in a day depending on the weave, pattern and the kind of yarn being used.

Bodh Shawl Weavers

Bodh Shawl Weavers were established in 1972. This is their ancestral family business.

Father of Mr. Palzor Bodh started this business and now he along with his son are continuing this business.

TYPES OF WOOL

MERINO WOOL

PASHMINA WOOL

YAK WOOL

ANGORA WOOL

TYPES OF WEAVES Shawls and Scarves are produced in different weaves: •Twill weave •Diamond weave •Plain weave •Herringbone weave •Jacquard weave Weaving : Two ways •Machine spun •Hand spun- less used now

Natural fibres: cotton, linen, wool, silk etc.

Pashmina- from wool and silk Have total 50 weavers.

Pure wool threads are sourced from Ladakh Source spinned wool from Gwalior and Kolkatta.

Pashmina Yarn

PROMOTIONS Tags, Visiting Cards, Pamphlets and Posters are designed for the brand.

These are designed in such a way that the cost of making is less.

VISITING CARD AND TAG

PRODUCT RANGE

Front

Back

Front

Front Front

Front

Back

Back

Back

Back

Front

Back

COLOUR STORY

The basic color story that we are following throughout our garments is a mix palette of warm colours that are traditionally used in the Kullu Shawls.

Regal wanderers

PRODUCT: COLLAR

FLAT SKETCH The basic color story that we are following throughout our garments is a mix palette of warm and earthen colors that are used in the Kullu Shawls.

BACK

This collar is inspired from the shawls and neck wraps that are worn by people of kullu.

They generally cover their upper torso with these shawls in order to keep themselves warm.

So the basic idea was to design something that is modern, minimalist and covers the neck area, so that the product can be worn in winters.

The collar made is chic and symmetrical and the colors used are deep and rich.

The weave used has earthen colors.