Filippa K M AY 2 0 2 0
M AT S 3 4 5 3 0 : S T R AT E G I C M A R K E T I N G
B R A N D E X PA N S I O N S T R AT E G Y ROSLIN FLORENCE 9919638
01 02 03
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY 1.1 Executive Summary
B R A N D P O S I T I O N A N A LY S I S 2.1 Company Analysis 2.2 Internal Analysis 2.3 Consumer Analysis 2.4 Motives for Expansion
C O U N T R Y A N A LY S I S 3.1 Country Selection 3.2 Macro Environment 3.3 Micro Environment
S T R AT E G I C P L A N 4.1 Strategic Objectives
04
4.2 Market Entry Method 4.3 Product and Price 4.4 Place and Promotion 4.5 People and Processes 4.6 Social Responsibility
05
CONCLUSION 5.1 Conclusion
“Inspired by my own needs, I set out to build a brand that had substance and truth, not dependent on the superficial trends of the fashion industry” Filippa Knutsson F O U N D E R A N D C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R O F F I L I P PA K
LIST OF FIGURES Fig 1 :
Levels of Strategy
Fig 2 :
Mision Statement
Fig 3 :
Fillipa K Corporate Objectives
Fig 4 :
Brand Identity Prism
Fig 5 :
T u r n o v e r o f t h e F i l l i p a K G r o u p f r o m 2 0 11 t o 2 0 1 8
Fig 6 :
Map Identifying Suppliers within Fillipa K’s Global Supply Chain
Fig 7 :
Fillipa K’s International Sustainable Partnership Initiatives
Fig 8 :
Brand positioning map : Sustainability vs Price
Fig 9 :
Marketing Mix Overview
Fig 10 : Fillipa K Product Assortment F i g 11 : F i l l i p a K C i r c u l a r F a s h i o n P l e d g e s F i g 1 2 : T u r n o v e r o f F i l l i p a K G r o u p f r o m 2 0 11 t o 2 0 1 8 Fig 13 : Map identifying Fillipa K’s Retail Outlets Fig 14 : Fillipa K Brand Distribution in Retail Stores Fig 15 : Fillipa K Instagram Posts Fig 16 : AIDA Model Fig 17 : Consumer Segmentation Fig 18 : Consumer Portrait : The Style Conscious Consumer Fig 19 : Consumer Portrait : The Sustainability-Focused Consumer Fig 20 : GE Mc Kinsey Matrix Analysis Fig 21 : Brand Expansion Push and Pull Factors Fig 22 : Country Attractiveness Perceptual Map Fig 23 : PESTEL Analysis at a Glance F i g 2 3 : P E S TA L A n a l y s i s ( a d a p t e d f r o m A g u i l a r, 1 9 6 7 ) F i g 2 3 : P E S TA L A n a l y s i s ( a d a p t e d f r o m A g u i l a r, 1 9 6 7 ) F i g 2 4 : S W O T A n a l y s i s ( a d a p t e d f r o m K a p f e r e r, 1 9 8 6 ) Fig 25 : Fillipa K Competitor Overview Fig 26 : Direct Competitor Conceptual Map Fig 27 : Brand Positioning Map : Sustainability vs Price
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LIST OF FIGURES F i g 2 8 : F o r c e s o f C o m p e t i t i v e P o s i t i o n ( a d a p t e d f r o m P o r t e r, 1 9 8 0 ) Fig 29 : 3Cs Model Analysis (adapted from Ohmae, 1992) Fig 30 : TOWS Matrix Analysis Overview (adapted from Weihrich, 1982) Fig 31 : Risk and Control Continuum (adapted from Moore et al., 2007) Fig 32 : Proposed Store Front (Authors Own, 2020) Fig 33 : Rue Saint-Honore Retail Outlets (Author ’s Own, 2020) Fig 34 : Paris Flagship Merchandise Allocation (adapted from Edited, 2020) Fig 35 : Fillipa K Pricing Strategy (adapted from Duke,1984) Fig 36 : Fillipa K Retail Environment (Pinterest, 2020) Fig 37:
Fillipa K Flagship Operations
Fig 38 : Flagship Store Design (Author Own, 2020) Fig 39 : Flagship Store Customer Journey (Authors Own, 2020)
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L I S T O F TA B L E S Ta b l e 1 : F i l l i p a K P r o f i t L e v e l A n a l y s i s Ta b l e 2 : T u r n o v e r o f t h e F i l l i p a K G r o u p f r o m 2 0 11 t o 2 0 1 8 ( S t a t i s t a , 2 0 1 9 ) Ta b l e 3 : F i l l i p a K B r a n d D i s t r i b u t i o n i n R e t a i l S t o r e s ( F i l l i p a K , 2 0 2 0 ) Ta b l e 4 : P r o s p e c t i v e C o u n t r y B e n e f i t v s R i s k ( A u t h o r s o w n , 2 0 2 0 ) Ta b l e 5 : F i l l i p a K D o m e s t i c C o m p e t i t o r A n a l y s i s ( A u t h o r s o w n , 2 0 2 0 ) Ta b l e 6 : F i l l i p a K D o m e s t i c C o m p e t i t o r A n a l y s i s ( A u t h o r s o w n , 2 0 2 0 ) Ta b l e 7 : T O W S M a t r i x A n a l y s i s ( a d a p t e d f r o m W e i h r i c h , 1 9 8 2 )
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PA RT O N E
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY 1.1 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
1.1 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY Our ultimate desire is to share our passion for classic design and s u s t a i n a b i l i t y w i t h t h e r e s t o f t h e w o r l d . To b e s e e n a n d h e a r d a b o v e t h e n o i s e o f t h e f a s h i o n i n d u s t r y, F i l i p p a K m u s t c o m p e t e o n t h e g l o b a l s t a g e but achieving worldwide recognition is a marathon, not a sprint. Expanding into international markets close to home is the best way to begin the process toward global brand status, and France is the most viable option. This case for this international brand expansion can be substantiated
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
through weak competitor product offering in the foreign domestic market, and the changing landscape of French consumers. While the brand is distinguished for its minimal Scandinavian-inspired store design, only six European countries can experience this in their home markets as one of the brand's largest remote consumer groups, the establishment of a flagship store in France is a significant stride in putting Filippa K on the world map. A l r e a d y e a r m a r k e d a s a n a r e a o f h i g h f e a s i b i l i t y, t h e l o c a t i o n o f F i l i p p a K ' s flagship store is one of the most prosperous cities in Europe - Paris. Situated in a trendy and affluent area not far from Champs-Élysées, Rue Saint-Honoré is home to many of Filippa K's key competitors in the region, i g n i t i n g a f r i e n d l y f i r e i n t h e i r p r o x i m i t y t o e a c h o t h e r. T h i s d i s t r i c t i s n o stranger to Paris Fashion Week, garnering a hefty amount of retail traffic in its wake. With one of the highest GDPs in the continent and a burgeoning desire for sustainable products and practices from consumers, Filippa K's premium product is destined for success. Coupled with a sub-par sustainable product offering competitors, international brand expansion into France enables Filippa K to capitalise on a significant gap in the market. Utilising insight from previous successful brand expansion ventures and providing a premium product, Filippa K will stand apart from competitors, and begin to assert its power and influence over the rest of the continent.
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PA RT T W O
BRAND POSITION A N A LY S I S
2 . 1 C O M PA N Y A N A LY S I S 2.1.1 BRAND OVERVIEW Established in 1993 by Filippa Knutsson, Filippa K is a leading Scandinavian fashion brand, f o u n d e d o n a d e e p - r o o t e d p h i l o s o p h y o f m i n i m a l i s m a n d s u s t a i n a b i l i t y. I n s p i r e d b y K n u t s s o n ' s desire for functionalism, Filippa K laid the groundwork for the now-world-renowned Scandinavian style, characterised by its inherently 'minimal' aesthetic (Hendriksz, 2017). To d a y, t h e b r a n d o p e r a t e s f i f t y s t a n d - a l o n e s t o r e s s p a n n i n g N o r t h e r n E u r o p e , p r o d u c e s o v e r o n e m i l l i o n g a r m e n t s a n n u a l l y, a n d y i e l d s a n a p p r o x i m a t e t u r n o v e r o f € 7 0 m i l l i o n y e a r l y ( H v a s s , 2 0 1 5 ) . Priding themselves on designing and manufacturing garments which are made-to-last, Filippa K's long-standing contribution to sustainability resonates with consumers more than ever as ecoconsciousness continues to advance.
2 . 1 . 2 L E V E L S O F S T R AT E G Y Operating at a corporate level, Filippa K strategically and financially governs its three subbrands; Filippa K Man, Soft Sport and Filippa K Front Runners, each of which performs at a business level. Assisting the brand at corporate-level is Filippa K Circle; an auxiliary digital hub which strives to meet the company's 2030 Sustainability goals by means of innovation (see Appendix 1).
Filippa K
Filippa K
Filippa K
MAN
SOFT SPORT F I L I P PA K
FRONT RUNNERS
MENSWEAR
ACTIVEWEAR
S U S TA I N A B L E D E S I G N
Filippa K
Circle
Fig.1 Filippa K Levels of Strategy (adapted from Hill and Jones, 2002)
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2 . 1 . 3 M I S S I O N S TAT E M E N T
“to approach fashion from a global perspective of mindful consumption by creating garments that are timeless in their quality and style, and luxurious in their simplicity” Fig 2. Filippa K Mission Statement (Filippa K, 2020)
Striving to become the most significant global Scandinavian brand in an 'environmentally threatened world', Filippa K's mission is to counteract trends of overconsumption by producing garments consumers will want to 'reach for' daily (Filippa K, 2020). These values are intrinsic to the brand, and as Filippa K continues to expand and internationalise, so too will their approach to 'mindful consumption'.
2 . 1 . 4 C O R P O R AT E O B J E C T I V E S I n a n i n t e r v i e w w i t h F a s h i o n U n i t e d , F i l i p p a K ' s C E O K r i s t o f e r To n s t r ö m o u t l i n e d h i s r o a d m a p o f corporate objectives to rise to the 'forefront of the digital world' and increase the brand's international prosperity (Hendriksz, 2017).
CAPTURE ACTIVEWEAR MARKET Benefit from growing market demand for athleisurewear by investing in the development and extension of activewear sub-brand Soft Sport.
E X PA N D D I G I TA L P R E S E N C E I N N O RT H E R N E U R O P E Consolidate brand prosperity in Northern Europe by distinguishing profitable u r b a n l o c a t i o n s f o r p o t e n t i a l m a r k e t e n t r y.
I N V E S T I N O N L I N E A N D R E TA I L C H A N N E L S Refine online and in-store retail operations by tripling investment into logistics, customer service and the improvement of overall customer experience.
Fig.3 Filippa K Corporate Objectives (Filippa K, 2020; Hendriksz, 2017))
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2.1.5 BRAND IDENTITY PRISM
PICTURE OF SENDER
•
PH
•
High level of customer service in-store and online
•
U
R
•
SO
N
AL
IT
Y •
C U LT U R E
R E L AT I O N S H I P
RE •
Y
Q SI
PE
E
Minimalist monochrome branding Brand representatives i n c l u d i n g E m m a Wa t s o n ( U N Goodwill Ambassador)
FL
Thirty-something female consumers Educated, socially-aware and passionate about what they do (Francois, 2017)
EC
TI
O
SE
N
L
AG M I • F-
‘Scandinavian appreciation of the natural world’ (Thomson, 2018)
E
I N T E R N A L I S AT I O N
E X T E R N A L I S AT I O N
•
•
Clean, androgynous silhouettes Minimal in-store design and web layout
Consumers wish to identify with Filippa K’s overtones of eco-consciousness and transparency
PICTURE OF RECIPIENT F i g . 4 B r a n d I d e n t i t y P r i s m ( a d a p t e d f r o m K a p f e r e r, 1 9 8 6 ) .
2 . 1 . 6 C O R E C O M P E T E N C I E S A N D VA L U E C R E AT I O N Distinguished for their made-to-last garments, Filippa K operates with a value discipline of 'product leadership', in which they aim to differentiate themselves from competitors based on p r o d u c t i n n o v a t i o n a n d q u a l i t y ( Tr e a c y a n d W i e r s e m a , 1 9 9 3 ) . M o r e o v e r, F i l i p p a K ' s s u s t a i n a b i l i t y efforts formulate value from the consumer perspective, stemming from recipient desire to identify with the brand's outward eco-consciousness.
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2 . 1 . 7 VA L U E C H A I N A N A LY S I S
P o r t e r ’ s Va l u e C h a i n ( 1 9 8 5 ) p r o v i d e s a f r a m e w o r k b y w h i c h a b u s i n e s s c a n a s s e s s t h e u t i l i t y a n d merit of both its primary and supporting business ventures. Following an extensive investigation into these, Fillips K’s three main value-adding activities are as follows:
PRIMARY ACTIVITIES STRONG SOCIAL MEDIA PRESENCE
1
With over 325,000 followers on social sites like Instagram, Filippa K engages with their audience through sharing ‘inspirational, 'campaign' and 'promotional' images (Koivisto, 2018). With the increased use of social media as a medium for creating sustainability awareness, Filippa K's strong social media presence is vital in communicating their eco-conscious standpoint to their target audience (Baram, 2019).
SUPPORT ACTIVITIES I N N O VAT I O N I N S U S TA I N A B L E G A R M E N T P R O D U C T I O N
2
To f a c i l i t a t e t h e s u s t a i n a b l e p r o d u c t i o n o f t h e i r g a r m e n t s , F i l i p p a K i n v e s t s i n pioneering technologies within their supply chain. Often ‘driven by the supply side’, Filippa K has utilised sustainable innovations such as the water-repelling ‘OrganoClick’ technology to support ethical transparency within garment production ( N i i n i m ä k i a n d H a s s i , 2 0 11 ; R u s s e l l , 2 0 1 8 ) .
PROGRESSIVE HUMAN RESOURCES POLICY
3
In true Scandinavian style, Filippa K’s human resources approach is intrinsically empathetic and humanistic. By offering their employees benefits such as flexible working hours and development opportunities, the brand is able to ‘leverage human resource management activities’ in a bid to strengthen brand perception and market position (Hartline, and Bejou, 2004; Filippa K, 2018).
F o r f u l l Va l u e C h a i n A n a l y s i s , p l e a s e s e e A p p e n d i x 2 .
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2 . 1 . 8 F I N A N C I A L A N A LY S I S Though Filippa K endured depreciations in turnover in 2014, and then again in 2017, the brand h a s g e n e r a t e d a n u n m i s t a k a b l e a n d s u s t a i n e d i n c r e a s e i n r e v e n u e i n t h e y e a r s f o l l o w i n g . To increase its yearly turnover average of 724 million SEK, Filippa K aims to expand its clothing rental system to increase turnover without producing additional garments (Filippa K, 2018).
Turnover (in million SEK)
800
Profit Level (after tax) Turnover
600
400
200
0
2011
2012
2013
2014
2015
2016
2017
2018
F i g . 5 T u r n o v e r o f t h e F i l i p p a K G r o u p f r o m 2 0 11 t o 2 0 1 8 ( S t a t i s t a , 2 0 1 9 )
A c o n t i n u e d d e c l i n e i n p r o f i t l e v e l , h o w e v e r, c a n b e a t t r i b u t e d t o t a x c o m p l i a n c e i n t h e b r a n d ' s foreign subsidiaries. Filippa K aims to sustain a profit level of 10% in order to establish themselves as a long-term sustainable business (Filippa K, 2018). 2016
2017
2018
TURNOVER (in million SEK)
649.4
650.0
729.1
P R E - TA X E A R N I N G S (in million SEK)
42.8
30.39
38.4
TA X E X P E N S E (in million SEK)
9.5
7.1
9.2
PROFIT LEVEL
7%
5%
5%
Ta b l e 1 . F i l i p p a K P r o f i t L e v e l A n a l y s i s ( F i l i p p a K , 2 0 1 8 )
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2 . 1 . 9 G L O B A L S U P P LY C H A I N
Fig. 6 Map Identifying Suppliers within Filippa K’s Global Supply Chain (Authors Own, 2020)
In 2018, 73% of Filippa K's order volume was produced in Europe, predominantly in Portugal, Lithuania, Romania, and their native Sweden. Of these countries, 65% were deemed 'low-risk' by the Fair Wear Foundation. 67% of their overall production in 2017 was acquired by suppliers with which the brand had upheld relationships for at least five years.
2 . 1 . 1 0 S U S TA I N A B L E PA RT N E R S H I P I N I T I AT I V E S
MOGUL, TURKEY
LENZIG, AUSTRIA
• Producer of spunbound and meltdown fabrics • Deliver a range of sustainable, non-woven goods in the Americas, Europe and Asia
• International producer of high-quality fibres fibres from renewable raw materials, like wood • Environmentally friendly and innovative technology
WEARESPINDYE, SWEDEN • Precise and long-lasting colouring of polyester • Reduce the use of water and chemicals in fabric dyeing
Fig. 7 Filippa K’s International Sustainable Partnership Initiatives (Filippa K, 2018)
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2 . 1 . 11 G L O B A L B R A N D P O S I T I O N I N G
S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y A N D FA S H I O N A B I L I T Y
Sustainable
Not Sustainable
Classic
Trend-led Fig. 8 Brand Positioning Map: Sustainability vs Price (Authors Own, 2020).
Figure 33 depicts Filippa K’s global brand position with regard to its two chief characteristics s u s t a i n a b i l i t y a n d f a s h i o n a b i l i t y. A n a l y s i s o f t h e s e k e y a t t r i b u t e s p r o v i d e s a f u l l e r p i c t u r e o f Filippa K’s brand position, and enables the brand to determine the proximity of direct competitors. 15 B R A N D P O S I T I O N A N A LY S I S
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2 . 2 I N T E R N A L A N A LY S I S 2.2.1 MARKETING MIX
PRO D U C T
PRICE
PLACE
PROMOTION
F i g . 9 M a r k e t i n g M i x O v e r v i e w ( J a c k s o n a n d S h a w, 2 0 0 9 )
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2.2.2 MARKETING MIX: PRODUCT Renowned for clean Scandinavian fashion, Filippa K has garnered a product assortment of over 52,000 garments in its dedicated womenswear and menswear ranges, as well as its activewear collection, Soft Sport (Edited, 2020). Product categories like 'tops' and 'bottoms' dominate the overall product offering, nodding to the brand's inherently androgynous style. Soft Sport contributes almost exclusively to delicate categories like swimwear and underwear due to its use of ‘active’ yet ‘gentle’ fabrics (Filippa K, 2020). Filippa K and its sub-brands utilise a muted, neutral colour palette, complementary to their simplistic product design and outward appearance.
PRODUCT TYPE
Filippa K
SOFT SPORT
To p s
26,189
1,553
Bottoms
10,413
785
Dresses
3,850
13
Accessories
2,314
55
Footwear
2,297
51
Swimwear
2,063
522
Underwear
515
441
Hosiery
109
19
Fig.10 Filippa K Product Assortment and Key Colour Palette (Edited, 2020).
To a c h i e v e i t s g o a l o f b e c o m i n g a v a n g u a r d o f f u n c t i o n a l f a s h i o n , F i l i p p a K v o w s t o i n c r e a s e t h e longevity of their products by offering:
1
LONG-LASTING PRODUCTS THROUGH DESIGN AND QUALITY
2 3
C L A S S I C S T Y L E S T H AT W I L L O U T L I V E S E A S O N A L T R E N D S
4 5
P R O L O N G E D P R O D U C T R E S I D E N C E A N D D I S P L AY I N - S TO R E
E X T E N D E D P R O D U C T L I F E C Y C L E T H R O U G H F I T T I N G A N D R E PA I R
S E C O N D L I F E T H R O U G H R E U S E A N D R E C Y C L E I N I T I AT I V E S
F i g . 11
Filippa K Circular Fashion Pledges (Hvass, 2015).
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2.2.3 MARKETING MIX: PRICE Reflecting a market shift toward sustainability and the ever-increasing demand for sustainable products, Filippa K utilises a premium pricing structure. With 30% of shoppers taking into account landfill before purchasing (Baram, 2019), Filippa K's made-to-last garments have been valued with a high price relative to both their competitors and customer value.
POSITIONING BRAND
PRODUCT COUNT
PRICE POINTS (MIN/ MED/ MAX) - GBP
Filippa K
33,921
£7.03
£109.40
£1329.41
Filippa K MAN
15,897
£7.36
£ 11 3 . 7 9
£651.71
SOFT SPORT
3,784
£ 1 3 . 11
£72.47
£661.91
Ta b l e 2 . T u r n o v e r o f t h e F i l i p p a K G r o u p f r o m 2 0 11 t o 2 0 1 8 ( S t a t i s t a , 2 0 1 9 )
F i l i p p a K ' s f a s h i o n - m e e t s - f u n c t i o n s u b - b r a n d S o f t S p o r t , h o w e v e r, o p e r a t e s a t a c o m p a r a b l y costlier level than that of the rest of the business. This can be accounted for in its proportionately smaller collection size, as well as the intensifying market interest in activewear (Hendriksz, 2017).
MIN £7.03
MAX £1,329.41
£109.34 MEDIAN F i g . 1 2 T u r n o v e r o f t h e F i l i p p a K G r o u p f r o m 2 0 11 t o 2 0 1 8 ( S t a t i s t a , 2 0 1 9 )
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2.2.4 MARKETING MIX: PLACE Operating 50 stand-alone stores across seven critical markets, Filippa K has left its mark on Scandinavia and Northern Europe. A single distribution centre in Sweden fulfils its retail outlets, as well as its 740-some selected retailers globally (Hvass, 2015).
Fig. 13 Map Identifying Filippa K’s Retail Outlets (Filippa K, 2020)
WOMAN / MAN
WOMAN
MAN
Sweden
22
8
4
Belgium
4
0
1
Germany
2
1
0
Norway
3
1
0
Denmark
2
0
0
Netherlands
3
1
0
Ta b l e 1 4 . F i l i p p a K B r a n d D i s t r i b u t i o n i n R e t a i l S t o r e s ( F i l i p p a K , 2 0 2 0 )
To d i s t r i b u t e i t s p r o d u c t s g l o b a l l y, F i l i p p a K c o n t r a c t s t h e u s e o f e - c o m m e r c e r e t a i l e r s s u c h a s YOOX, Zalando and Farfetch (Edited, 2020). Utilising online distribution is now imperative for traditional ‘bricks and mortar ’ retailers like Filippa K due to the increaasing number of online sale, and the subsequent need to ‘serve customers through multiple channels’ (Hübner et al., 2016). 19 B R A N D P O S I T I O N A N A LY S I S
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2.2.5 MARKETING MIX: PROMOTION Centred primarily around its social media presence, Filippa K's primary vehicles of promotion are Instagram and its e-commerce website. With 24% of women aged 25-44 trusting fashion brands as a 'source of information' on sustainable fashion, Instagram is a vital tool for Filippa K in communicating its green brand ethos (Mintel, 2019b), as well as sharing marketing promotions, campaign imagery and influencer posts. Filippa K Soft Sport oversees a dedicated Instagram profile, designed to target the brand's 'active' consumer and tap into the booming activewear market (Hendriksz, 2017).
Fig. 15 Filippa K Instagram Posts (via @filippa_k on Instagram, 2020).
Perhaps Filippa K’s most critical agency is its e-commerce website - a central platform in which the brand elicits product desire through online lookbooks, and encourages purchasing action through advertising promotional discounts. Filippa K's approach to promotion remains relatively s t a t i o n a r y, e p i t o m i s i n g b o t h t h e b r a n d ' s m i n i m a l i s t i d e n t i t y a s w e l l a s i t s p r e m i u m f e e l .
A I
AWARENESS: • Social media advertisements to target key demographic • Product features in magazines including Elle and Women’s Health UK (Filippa K, 2017)
I N T E R E S T: • Pinterest boards to engage with consumers and convey brand identity • Annual sustainability reports to communicate ethical transparency and future goals
D
DESIRE
A
ACTION:
• Capture audience with email marketing campaigns • Online lookbooks for new campaigns and product collections
• Discounts and promotion on Filippa K website and via email • Reinforce brand loyalty and salience with 1:1 email marketing and weekly newsletter Fig. 16 AIDA Model (adapted from Goworek and McGoldrick, 2015).
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2 . 3 C O N S U M E R A N A LY S I S 2 . 3 . 1 C O N S U M E R S E G M E N TAT I O N
DEMOGRAPHIC Women aged 30-45 who are ‘educated, aware and independent minded’, and value sustainable products (Francois, 2017; Filippa K, 2017).
INCOME Often in successful corporate positions, consumers have an average disposable income of between 150,000 SEK (€14,400) and 400,000 SEK (€38,000).
L O C AT I O N Urban dwellers living in large cities, Filippa K consumers live and breathe the city lifestyle, and enjoy frequenting classy bars and restaurants.
HOBBIES As well as having a passion for travelling to new places, consumers unwind from their busy professional lifestyles through activities like yoga and pilates.
IDEOLOGY Those wearing Filippa K products will feel positive about purchasing sustainable garments and contributing to the slow fashion movement. They will feel a sense of power or status in Filippa K garments due to their high quality and noteworthy brand name.
Fig 17 Consumer Segmentation (Author ’s Own, 2020).
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2.3.2 THE STYLE-CONSCIOUS CONSUMER
INGRID ANDERSSON CONSUMER PROFILE: Name: Ingrid Andersson Age: 43 Hometown: Stockholm Current Location: Stockholm Marital Status: Married Occupation: Business Executive Income: 750,000 SEK KEY CHARACTERISTICS: BUSY S O P H I S T I C AT E D
Ingrid Andersson
CLASSIC
P U R C H A S E B E H AV I O U R
WANTS
• Seeks relevance in luxury brands and
• Convenience due to busy career and
products
lifestyle
• Willing to invest in classic, staple
• Minimalism and simplicity as a form of
garments
luxury
OPPORTUNITIES: Willing to pay a high price for a premium product, and will likely remain loyal to the brand if the products meet her needs
T H R E AT S : May not wish to incur an additional cost for sustainable or sustainably produced products Fig. 18 Consumer Portrait: The Style-Conscious Consumer (Authors Own, 2020).
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2 . 3 . 3 T H E S U S TA I N A B L E F O C U S E D C O N S U M E R
ANNIKA ERIKSSON CONSUMER PROFILE: Name: Annika Eriksson Age: 32 Hometown: Malmö Current Location: Stockholm Marital Status: Single Occupation: Public Relations Income: 320,000 SEK KEY CHARACTERISTICS: ECO-CONSCIOUS LIBERAL
Annika Eriksson
W E L L - E D U C AT E D
P U R C H A S E B E H AV I O U R
WANTS
• Purchases purposefully and infrequently
• High-quality garments which will stand the test of time
• Willing to pay a premium price for products which are sustainable, or have
• Sustainability as standard
been produced sustainably
• Ethical supply chain practices
O P P O R T U N I T I E S : Willing to pay a high price for a sustainable product, and will likely remain loyal to the brand if the products meet her needs
T H R E A T S : M a y n o t w a n t t o s a c r i f i c e t r e n d s f o r s u s t a i n a b i l i t y, a n d c o u l d p o t e n t i a l l y l o o k t o c o m p e t i t o r s w h o o f f e r b o t h f a s h i o n - f o r w a r d n e s s a n d s u s t a i n a b i l i t y. Fig. 19 Consumer Portrait: The Sustainability-Focused Consumer (Authors Own, 2020).
23 B R A N D P O S I T I O N A N A LY S I S
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2 . 4 M O T I V E S F O R E X PA N S I O N 2 . 4 . 1 G E M C K I N S E Y M AT R I X As fashion retailers have a 'tendency to internationalise', it is inherent that brands analyse the ' c o m p e t i t i v e s c e n a r i o ' t o w h i c h t h e y w i s h t o e n t e r ( A m a t u l l i , C a p u t o a n d G u i d o , 2 0 11 ) . A c r i t i c a l managerial tool for this analysis is the GE McKinsey Matrix; a model which allows a business to define their 'strategic sphere', as well as the competitors operating within it (Bergen and P e t e r a f , 2 0 0 2 ; A m a t u l l i , C a p u t o a n d G u i d o , 2 0 11 ) . A p p l y i n g s t a n d a r d d i m e n s i o n s o f ' b u s i n e s s strength' and 'market attractiveness', Filippa K can ascertain that the most suitable opportunity for expansion is to invest in growth while striving to maintain brand strength.
INVEST
SELECTIVITY/ MANAGE FOR EARNINGS
medium
MARKET
AT T R A C T I V E N E S S
high
low
DIVEST
strong
medium
weak
BUSINESS STRENGTH F i g . 2 0 G E M c K i n s e y M a t r i x A n a l y s i s ( a d a p t e d f r o m M c K i n s e y, 2 0 0 8 ) .
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2 . 4 . 2 E X PA N S I O N P U S H A N D P U L L FA C TO R S
PUSH FACTORS
1 2 3 4
G L O B A L B R A N D S TAT U S • To b e c o m e t h e ‘ b i g g e s t S c a n d i n a v i a n b r a n d o n t h e g l o b a l s t a g e ’ , F i l i p p a K must invest in new international markets (Hendriksz, 2017).
O V E R - S AT U R AT I O N I N H O M E M A R K E T • Over-saturation of green brands in Sweden due to the inherent nature of sustainability in Scandinavian culture (Thomson, 2018).
DECREASING PROFIT LEVELS • W h i l e g e n e r a t i n g a h i g h l e v e l o f t u r n o v e r, F i l i p p a K h a s e x p e r i e n c e d steadily decreasing profit levels in recent years (Filippa K, 2018).
DECLINE IN DOMESTIC EXPOSURE • Reduced brand exposure due to cancellation of Stockholm Fashion Week 2019; an event in Filippa K would showcase its new collections.
PULL FACTORS
1
CONSIDERABLE BRAND DEMAND IN EUROPE • Though only operating stores in six European markets, there is a high demand for Filippa K across the rest of the continent (Edited, 2020).
S O C I E TA L S H I F T TO WA R D S S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y
2 3
• 66% of respondents (and 75% of millennial respondents) say they consider s u s t a i n a b i l i t y w h e n m a k i n g a l u x u r y p u r c h a s e ( M c K i n s e y, 2 0 2 0 ) .
C A P I TA L I S E O N G L O B A L I S AT I O N • Increased ‘interconnectedness’ and ‘interdependence’ among different international markets due to ‘geographical outreach’ (Ietto-Gillies, 2019).
STIMULUS FOR CENTRALISED DISTRIBUTION CENTRE
4
• Expansion of the brand’s retail operations further validates the existing need to construct a centralised distribution centre, improving the sustainability of logistics, and reducing the cost of distribution.
F i g . 2 1 B r a n d E x p a n s i o n P u s h a n d P u l l F a c t o r s ( a d a p t e d f r o m A l e x a n d e r, 1 9 9 7 ) .
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PA RT T H R E E
COUNTRY A N A LY S I S : FRANCE
3.1 COUNTRY SELECTION 3.1.1 COUNTRY OVERVIEW Despite operating a limited amount of retail outlets in Northern and Western Europe, the Filippa K brand has amassed a continent-wide reach, and in doing so, several prospective countries for market entry have presented themselves. These are France, the United Kingdom, Finland and Austria.
BENEFIT
RISK
Proximity to existing Filippa K markets
FRANCE
Increased adoption of sustainable consumption habits Steadily rising GDP
UNITED KINGDOM
Already earmarked as an area for potential expansion Growing awareness of sustainability High and increasing European GDP
Consumers moving towards androgynous fashion
FINLAND
Desire for simple, practical and ecoconscious products Growing popularity of shopping centres
Quality is an important factor in purchasing and incites brand loyalty
AUSTRIA
Purchasing power among highest in Europe Ecological and sustainable awareness
Rising demand for products made in France Comparably lower consumer confidence for big-label brands as opposed to small shops
No longer a member of the European Union Consumer fixation on fast-fashion consumption Geographic distance from distribution centre and other markets
Rising household debt and widespread use of credit cards Hardest hit country in Eurozone by periods of financial downturn Ageing population
Women earn 20% less on average than men Stronger support for organic, local brands Ageing population
Ta b l e 6 . P r o s p e c t i v e C o u n t r y B e n e f i t v s R i s k ( A u t h o r ’ s O w n , 2 0 2 0 ) .
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3 . 1 . 2 C O U N T RY AT T R A C T I V E N E S S W h i l e a l l o f t h e s e c o u n t r i e s c o n t r i b u t e s o m e l e v e l o f p r o m i s e a n d c o n c e i v a b i l i t y, s o m e c o u n t r i e s present a significantly higher risk associated with international entry than others. The below figure illustrates a perceptual map of the four potential countries for international expansion based on their overall attractiveness. The size of the bubble directly correlates with the viability o f t h e s e m a r k e t s , a n d s o t h e l a r g e r s i z e d e n o t e s a m o r e a t t r a c t i v e c o u n t r y.
high
FINLAND
COUNTRY RISK
UNITED KINGDOM
FRANCE AUSTRIA
strong
MARKET POTENTIAL
Fig. 22 Country Attractiveness Perceptual Map (Author ’s Own, 2020).
Following an investigation into these these potential markets, the country determined as having the most attractiveness and prosperity is therefore France. Though it is not without its risks, the potential for brand growth, and the achievement of ‘global brand status’ affirms an international expansion into this market (Hendriksz, 2017).
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3 . 1 . 3 C O U N T RY J U S T I F I C AT I O N
WHY FRANCE?
1 2
F R A N C E A L R E A D Y A M O N G TO P F I L I P PA K M A R K E T S • France is already one of the most prevalent online consumer bases for Filippa K, ranking fourth in the brand’s top five markets (Edited, 2020).
I N C R E A S I N G D E M A N D F O R S U S TA I N A B L E P R O D U C T S • Following Macron’s ‘Fashion Pact’, there has been a societal shift toward sustainability in France and a subsequent rise in demand for green products (Business of Fashion, 2020)
3
F E W F R E N C H C O M P E T I TO R S A R E S U S TA I N A B L E
4
EXISTING FRENCH-SPEAKING MARKETS
5
• With many French brands sacrificing sustainability for trend-focused products, Filippa K can capitalise on a gap in classic, long-lasting fashion.
• Filippa K’s already established presence in Belgium will aid in determining linguistic nuances and eradicating language barriers. Being able to c o m m u n i c a t e i n F r e n c h p r o v i d e s a ‘ d i s t i n c t a d v a n t a g e ’ ( S a n t a n d e r Tr a d e , 2 0 2 0 ) .
ALREADY EARMARKED AS AN MARKET FOR POTENTIAL ENTRY • F i l i p p a K C E O , K r i s t o f e r To n s t r ö m , n o t e d t h a t t h e b r a n d h a s a l r e a d y e a r m a r k e d several markets for potential brand expansion, the most viable of which being France (Hendriksz, 2017).
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3.2 MACRO ENVIRONMENT 3 . 2 . 1 P E S T E L A N A LY S I S AT A G L A N C E
N E G AT I V E FA C TO R S YELLOW VEST PROTESTS
POSITIVE FACTORS
P
F E M A L E R E P R E S E N TAT I O N I N M AY O R A L E L E C T I O N S
POLITICAL PUBLIC DEBT TO C L I M B TO 11 2 % O F GDP
E
FORECASTED 5.8% GROWTH IN 2021 23% INCREASE IN ONLINE SPENDING
ECONOMIC RISE OF ISLAMOPHOBIA AND S E C TA R I A N I S M
S
INCREASED DEMAND FOR ‘PURPOSEFUL BRANDS’ 1/3 CONSUMERS FOLLOW INFLUENCERS
SOCIAL D ATA PROTECTION CONCERNS
T
USE OF APPS INSTORE RISE OF AR ONLINE
TECHNOLOCIAL E U R O P E A N PA R L I A M E N T D E C L A R E S C L I M AT E EMERGENCY
E
YOUNG PEOPLE I N C R E A S I N G LY AWA R E O F C L I M AT E C H A N G E
E N V I R O N M E N TA L
CONTROVERSIAL PENSION R E F O R M B I L L PA S S E D
L
FA S H I O N PA C T AT 2019 G7 SUMMIT
LEGAL Fig 23
PESTEL Analysis at a Glance (Author;s Own, 2020).
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3 . 2 . 2 P E S T E L A N A LY S I S : F R A N C E
POLITICAL Fifty-two weeks of protests by ‘yellow vest’ workers against economic hardship, mounting inequality and a discredited political establishment (Dodman, 2019).
P
Municipal elections in Paris dominated by female candidates (Dunglehoff, 2020). Widespread disaffection with President Macron’s attempt to scale back ‘acquis s o c i a u x ’ w o r k e r s ’ r i g h t s ( Z a r e t s k y, 2 0 2 0 )
ECONOMIC P u b l i c d e b t e x p e c t e d t o c l i m b t o 11 2 % o f G D P w i t h € 1 0 0 b n s t a t e p l a n t o s u p p o r t
E
t h e e c o n o m y d u r i n g C o r o n a v i r u s p a n d e m i c ( To n n e l i e r, 2 0 2 0 b ) . IMF forecasts a rebound of 5.8% growth in 2021 (France24, 2020). Reduction of €5bn in income taxation in order to boost growth and jobs ( To n n e l i e r, 2 0 2 0 a ) .
SOCIAL 23% increase in online expenditure, which is likely to continue in post-pandemic
S
France (al-Shaalan, 2020). Increased demand for ‘purposeful brands’ (Roux, 2020). 1 / 3 i n t e r n e t u s e r s f o l l o w a n i n f l u e n c e r, a n d 7 5 % o f t h e s e h a v e p u r c h a s e d i t e m s v i a a n i n f l u e n c e r ( S a n t a n d e r Tr a d e , 2 0 2 0 ) .
F i g 2 3 . P E S T E L A n a l y s i s ( a d a p t e d f r o m A g u i l a r, 1 9 6 7 ) . For full PESTEL Analysis, please see Appendix 4.
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3 . 2 . 3 P E S T E L A N A LY S I S : F R A N C E C O N T.
TECHNOLOGICAL Increased connectivity with consumers in-store via applications and tablets (Mintel, 2020a). Rise of augmented reality in online stores to virtually try on products (Mintel, 2020b).
T
French consumers increasingly concerned with big data and personal data p r o t e c t i o n ( S a n t a n d e r Tr a d e , 2 0 2 0 ) .
E N V I R O N M E N TA L
Yo u n g p e o p l e i n c r e a s i n g l y a w a r e o f c l i m a t e c h a n g e a n d t h e n e e d t o c h a n g e t h e i r habits (Norval, 2020) European Parliament declares ‘climate emergency’ ahead of UN Summit
E
(France24, 2019).
LEGAL President Macron heads ‘Pacte de la Mode’ (Fashion Pact) at G7 summit to achieve zero net CO₂ emissions by 2050, and 100% renewable energy in supply chains by 2030 (Fish, 2019). Controversial pension reform bill passed, raising the retirement age and
L
reducing pension payouts (France24, 2020).
F i g 2 3 P E S T E L A n a l y s i s ( a d a p t e d f r o m A g u i l a r, 1 9 6 7 ) . For full PESTEL Analysis, please see Appendix 4.
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3 . 2 . 4 S W O T A N A LY S I S : F R A N C E
S
W
STRENGTHS
WEAKNESSES
1. S T R O N G B R A N D I D E N T I T Y
1. S I N G L E D I S T R I B U T I O N C E N T R E
• Company philosophy built around ‘style,
• FWF suggests that Filippa K should
simplicity and quality (Hvass, 2015) 2. ‘ M A D E T O L A S T ’ P R O D U C T S
consolidate its supply base (Fair Wear Foundation, 2018)
• Scandinavian desire for sustainability
2. L A T E T O O M N I - C H A N N E L
helps ‘move the culture forward at a quick
• Online shopping to rise to 35-40% of
pace’ (Thomson, 2018)
market in next 10 years from 20% (Fish,
3. L O Y A L C U S T O M E R B A S E
2020)
• 68% of customers have been loyal to the
• Consumers who buy in-store and online
brand for 5 or more years (Filippa K
spend 30% more than single-channel
Q u a l i t y a n d U s a g e S u r v e y, 2 0 1 9 )
consumers (Drapers, 2020)
SWOT A N A LY S I S O
T
OPPORTUNITIES
T H R E AT S
1. I N F L U E N C E R M A R K E T I N G
1. H I G H S T R E E T D E C L I N E
• Influencer marketing marks a ‘tectonic
• Overall activity down by 5.8% in April
shift for the future of digital advertising
2019 (Mintel, 2019)
(Levin, 2020)
2. I N C R E A S E D S U P P O R T F O R
2. I N C R E A S E D D E M A N D F O R S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y
FRENCH BRANDS/ PRODUCTS • Tr e n d w h i c h i s l i k e l y t o c o n t i n u e p o s t -
• Scandinavian desire for sustainability
COVID-19 (al-Shaalan, 2020)
helps ‘move the culture forward at a
3. R I S I N G P U B L I C D E B T
quick pace’ (Thomson, 2018)
• F r e n c h p u b l i c d e b t s e t t o r i s e t o 11 2 % o f
3. R I S E O F A I O N L I N E
G D P ( To n n e l i e r, 2 0 2 0 b )
• Aids customers finding their fit and reducing returns (Drapers, 2020) F i g . 2 4 S W O T A n a l y s i s ( a d a p t e d f r o m K a p f e r e r, 1 9 8 6 )
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3.3 MICRO ENVIRONMENT 3.3.1 COMPETITOR OVERVIEW
DIRECT COMPETITORS
FOREIGN DOMESTIC
I N T E R N AT I O N A L E N T R I E S
The Kooples
COS
Sandro Paris
& Other Stories
ALLSAINTS
Maje Paris
INDIRECT COMPETITORS
H&M
ASOS
Zara
Fig. 25 Filippa K Competitor Overview (Author ’s Own, 2020)
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3 . 3 . 2 D I R E C T C O M P E T I TO R A N A LY S I S
FOREIGN DOMESTIC COMPETITORS With 40% of French consumers preferring native French brands and French-made products, Filippa K's foreign domestic competitors could pose a significant hurdle to market entry ( S t a t i s t a , 2 0 2 0 ) . To p r e v e n t t h i s , F i l i p p a K m u s t a s c e r t a i n t h e i r v a l u e p r o p o s i t i o n w i t h i n t h e market through comparison on critical components like brand scope and product offering.
MARKET
324 stores across
LANDSCAPE
Europe, North America
500 stores across Europe, North America, Middle East, Asia, Oceania
150 stores across Europe, North America, South America, Middle East, Asia, Oceania
• Ready-to-wear apparel • Ready-to-wear apparel
• Ready-to-wear apparel
• Accessories
• Accessories
• Accessories
• Footwear
• Footwear
• Footwear
PRICE
Min - £0.02
Min - £15.59
Min - £21.45
ARCHITECTURE
Med - £136.58
Med - £139.39
Med - £143.48
(GBP)
Max - £907.36
Max - £3,525.13
Max - £1,965.96
TA R G E T
Women aged 18-35
Women aged 25-40
AUDIENCE
Men aged 18-35
Men aged 25-40
OMNICHANNEL
• Ecommerce website
• Ecommerce website
• Ecommerce website
PRESENCE
• Social media POS
• Social media POS
• Social media POS
KEY PRODUCT OFFERING
Women aged 18-35
Ta b l e 6 . F i l i p p a K D o m e s t i c C o m p e t i t o r A n a l y s i s ( A u t h o r ’ s O w n , 2 0 2 0 ) . For full analysis, please see Appendix 4.
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3 . 3 . 3 D I R E C T C O M P E T I T O R A N A LY S I S C O N T.
I N T E R N AT I O N A L M A R K E T E N T R Y C O M P E T I T O R S Though already engaged in competition with these brands on the global stage, Filippa K must reassess their position relative to its chief opponents of international entry in the French market. Determining the value proposition of international market entry brands on the market, as well as France's domestic brands, will endow Filippa K with a more comprehensive and complete picture of their direct competition.
MARKET
240 stores across
70 stores across Europe,
LANDSCAPE
Europe, North America
North America, Asia
• Apparel KEY PRODUCT OFFERING
• Accessories • Footwear • Homewear • Childrenswear
232 stores across Europe, North America, Asia
• Apparel
• Apparel
• Accessories
• Accessories
• Footwear
• Footwear
• Beauty
• Fragrance
PRICE
Min - £4.00
Min - £4.00
Min - £0.01
ARCHITECTURE
Med - £60.58
Med - £64.62
Med - £141.93
(GBP)
Max - £519.66
Max - £401.02
Max - £1,1704.14
TA R G E T
Women aged 25-50
AUDIENCE
Men aged 25-50
OMNICHANNEL
• Ecommerce website
• Ecommerce website
• Ecommerce website
PRESENCE
• Social media POS
• Social media POS
• Social media POS
Women aged 20-45
Women aged 18-35 Men aged 18-35
Ta b l e 7 . F i l i p p a K D o m e s t i c C o m p e t i t o r A n a l y s i s ( A u t h o r ’ s O w n , 2 0 2 0 ) . For full analysis, please see Appendix 4.
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3.3.4 DIRECT COMPETITOR PERCEPTUAL MAP
S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y A N D FA S H I O N A B I L I T Y The perceptual map depicted in Figure 23 utilises Filippa K's chief characteristics of 'classic' product design and sustainable practices to determine its proximity to direct competitors, as well as their value proposition to consumers.
Fig. 26 Direct Competitor Perceptual Map (Authors Own, 2020).
In studying Filippa K's market position in the above figure, its classic-designed product is its most markedly discernible value proposition to consumers, far outperforming its competitors in t h i s s e c t o r. T h o u g h m a n y o f i t s c o m p e t i t o r s m a k e n o t e w o r t h y c o n t r i b u t i o n s t o s u s t a i n a b i l i t y, most of Filippa K's foreign domestic competitors do not, presenting a considerable advantage for the brand. 37 C O U N T R Y A N A LY S I S : F R A N C E
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3 . 3 . 5 I N D I R E C T C O M P E T I TO R A N A LY S I S
INDIRECT COMPETITORS While not posing any immediately discernible threats to the business, an investigation into Filippa K's indirect competitors is essential. Indirect competitors are largely 'profilable' in nature, enabling the brand to distinguish their implicit equivalents before they have even begun to 'strike' (Downing, Kang and Markman, 2019).
5,096 stores across
One e-commerce site
2,250 stores across
Europe, North America,
selling to 239 countries
Europe, North America,
Asia
and terrirotires
South America, Asia
• Apparel
• Apparel
• Apparel
• Accessories
• Accessories
• Accessories
• Footwear
• Footwear
• Footwear
• Homeware
• Homewear
• Homewear
• Childrenswear
• Gifts
• Childrenswear
PRICE
Min - £0.80
Min - £2.21
Min - £2.01
ARCHITECTURE
Med - £18.73
Med - £28.82
Med - £52.90
(GBP)
Max - £339.38
Max - £493.38
Max - £37,396.86
TA R G E T
Women aged 16-35
Women aged 18-35
Women aged 18-35
AUDIENCE
Men aged 16-35
Men aged 18-35
Men aged 18-35
• Ecommerce website
• Ecommerce website
• Ecommerce website
• Mobile app
• Mobile app
• Mobile app
• Social media POS
• Social media POS
• Social media POS
MARKET LANDSCAPE
KEY PRODUCT OFFERING
OMNICHANNEL PRESENCE
Ta b l e 8 . F i l i p p a K D o m e s t i c C o m p e t i t o r A n a l y s i s ( A u t h o r ’ s O w n , 2 0 2 0 ) . For full analysis, please see Appendix 4.
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3.3.6 INDIRECT COMPETITOR PERCEPTUAL MAP
PRICE AND ACCESSIBILITY Despite their comparably lower focus on classic design and sustainable processes, Filippa K's indirect consumers may still pose a significant threat to the business in offering low price and h i g h a c c e s s i b i l i t y. T h e s e f a c t o r s m a y d r i v e a c o n s u m e r t o w a r d s p u r c h a s e i f t h e i r i m m e d i a t e needs warrant it, and so Filippa K's equivalent offering must be appraised.
Fig. 27 Brand Positioning Map: Sustainability vs Price (Authors Own, 2020).
Upon investigation, it is clear that Filippa K's level of accessibility somewhat pales in comparison to that of their indirect competitors.Though the brand invests in worldwide shipping and the use of secondary e-commerce retailers, competitors like H&M and Zara operate thousands of retail outlets globally and oversee highly efficient distribution processes. M o r e o v e r, p r o p o r t i o n a l l y l o w e r p r i c e a r c h i t e c t u r e s i n c o n t r a s t w i t h F i l i p p a K d i s t i n g u i s h e s t h e s e brands as viable opponents in France. 39 C O U N T R Y A N A LY S I S : F R A N C E
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3.3.7 FORCES OF COMPETITIVE POSITION
Porter's Five Forces (1980) is a means by which a company can ascertain the 'root causes of profitability' within their industry by analysing the threats posed by forces external to the b u s i n e s s ( D o b b s , 2 0 1 4 ; P o r t e r, 1 9 8 0 ) . T h i s a n a l y s i s c o n c l u d e s t h a t w h i l e F i l i p p a K ' s i l l u s t r i o u s brand image and product offering is often sufficient in warding off competition, their reliance on some suppliers in producing its sustainable garments can present itself as a threat.
C O M P E T I T I V E R I VA L R Y W h i l e t h e n u m b e r o f k e y p l a y e r s i n d i r e c t c o m p e t i t i o n w i t h F i l i p p a K i s f e w, t h e s a t u r a t i o n o f t h e g e n e r a l w o m e n s w e a r m a r k e t h a s i n c i t e d a c o m p e t i t i v e r i v a l r y. F u e l l e d b y s o c i a l m e d i a platforms like Instagram, existing players within the market face fierce competition to vie for increased market share.
SUPPLIER POWER
BUYER POWER
Suppliers with pioneering manufacturing techniques (see Figure 2) are vital in the sustainable production of Filippa K garments, and facilitate a significant value proposition to consumers.
Bargaining power of buyers is relatively low due to Filippa K's select number of direct competitors in France.
H o w e v e r, d u e t o i t s h i g h number of global suppliers and strict Codes of Conduct, a single supplier is unlikely to exert pressure on the brand.
T H R E AT O F N E W ENTRANTS
T H R E AT O F SUBSTITUTION
A societal shift toward sustainability in France may entice new entrants to emerge.
Though a large number of brands produce similar products, often at a lower price, few can replicate the same level of quality and sustainability found in Filippa K garments.
The Filippa K brand, h o w e v e r, h a s b e e n crafted over two decades and is widely recognised for laying the groundwork for the now-infamous minimalist Swedish style. Thus, new entrants would be unlikely to compete a n d w o u l d f i n d i t d i ff i c u l t t o f o r a g e t h e i r n o t o r i e t y.
Though consumers redirecting to other brands is cheap, Filippa K has amassed and retained its loyal customer base through h i g h - q u a l i t y, s u s t a i n a b l e products, and retained these customers through initiatives such as garment repair and recycling.
The threat of substitutes, therefore, is moderated by the brand's longlasting products and their sustainable practices.
F i g . 2 8 F o r c e s o f C o m p e t i t i v e P o s i t i o n ( a d a p t e d f r o m P o r t e r, 1 9 8 0 ) .
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3 . 3 . 8 3 C s M O D E L A N A LY S I S The below figure depicts an adaptation of Ohmae (1992)'s '3Cs' model, by which a firm can critically assess their competitors and consumers in order to ascertain its value proposition.
CUSTOMER
wi
V
T
n: i o gn it i o s des o p ct p r rodu e p l u ed V a nd-l re
a Lo ng l u e th -la p mi s nim ting r o p o al p Sc rem s i t an ium i o din n av pro : d ian u de ct sig n
‘Educated, aware and independent minded’ 30-45 year olds (Francois, 2017; Filippa K, 2017)
C O M PA N Y
Filippa K SOFT SPORT F I L I P PA K
Filippa K MAN
Cost performance differentials:
COMPETITORS
Well-established brand resonance and e-commerce sites
Fig. 29
3Cs Model Analysis (adapted from Ohmae, 1992)
In utilising this tool, it is readily apparent that Filippa K's primary value proposition for their target consumer is their made-to-last premium product, as well as its minimal Scandinavian d e s i g n . T h e m a i n t h r e a t p o s e d b y t h e i r c o m p e t i t o r s , h o w e v e r, i s t h e i r w i d e s p r e a d b r a n d resonance, as well as their sophisticated and well-established e-commerce websites.
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PA RT F O U R
S T R AT E G I C PLAN
4 . 1 S T R AT E G I C O B J E C T I V E S 4.1.1 SMART OBJECTIVES (DORAN, 1981) SPECIFIC
S
• Successfully extend Filippa K’s retail operations into France by mode of a flagship store in pursuit of attaining global brand status. • Generate higher levels of turnover and subsequent profit after tax.
MEASURABLE
M
• Determine prosperity and success of the flagship store through analysing financial data, such as sales and revenue. • Monitor consumer response to the ‘Made in France’ collection on social media sites such as Instagram.
AT TA I N A B L E
A
• Filippa K has already garnered a significant consumer base in the French market • Its flagship stores in other regions are substantial seedbeds of prosperity for the brand, both in terms of revenue and in esteem.
REALISTIC
R
• Filippa K flagship stores in other regions are substantial seedbeds of prosperity for the brand, both in terms of revenue and in esteem. • There is a notable gap in the womenswear market in France for a brand producing classic fashion with sustainable practices.
TIME-BOUND
T
• Launch flagship store in January 2021. • Review the viability and progress of the flagship store at the end of an initial oneyear lease.
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4 . 1 . 2 TO W S M AT R I X O V E RV I E W Filippa K can employ its in-depth SWOT analysis (see Figure X) to 'anticipate' potential liabilities and difficulties which may occur in the 'future environment' before they have even begun to materialise (Weirich, 1982). Application of the TOWS Matrix in analysing Filippa K has presented overarching attacking and defensive strategies, of which the most relevant are centralise distribution, utilise influencer marketing and launch a French-made collection.
S+O
W+O
STRENGTHS + OPPORTUNITIES
WEAKNESSES + OPPORTUNITIES
S1+O1 S1+O2 S2+O1 S2+O2
INFLUENCER MARKETING S U P P LY C H A I N T R A N S PA R E N C Y P R / I N F L U E N C E R C A M PA I G N I N - S T O R E C L O T H I N G R E N TA L
W 1 + O 1 CENTRALISE DISTRIBUTION W 1 + O 2 CENTRALISE DISTRIBUTION W 2 + O 1 INFLUENCER MARKETING W 2 + O 2 IMPROVE OMNICHANNEL
K E Y AT TA C K I N G S T R AT E G Y = C E N T R A L I S E D I S T R I B U T I O N A N D S T R E N G T H E N INFLUENCER MARKETING
S+T
W+T
STRENGTHS + OPPORTUNITIES
WEAKNESSES + OPPORTUNITIES
S1+T1 S1+T2 S2+T1 S2+T2
W 1 + T 1 CENTRALISE DISTRIBUTION W 1 + T 2 FRENCH-MADE COLLECTION W 2 + T 1 IMPROVE OMNICHANNEL W 2 + T 2 FRENCH-MADE COLLECTION
IMPROVE OMNICHANNEL FRENCH-MADE COLLECTION O N L I N E C L O T H I N G R E N TA L INFLUENCER MARKETING
ONLINE
K E Y D E F E N S I V E S T R AT E G Y = L A U N C H A F R E N C H - M A D E C O L L E C T I O N A N D IMPROVE OMNICHANNEL OFFERING Fig. 30 TOWS Matrix Analysis Overview (adapted from Weihrich, 1982).
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4 . 1 . 3 TO W S M AT R I X A N A LY S I S INTERNAL
STRENGTHS
Filippa K
1.
Strong brand identity
2. ‘ M a d e t o l a s t ’ p r o d u c t s
S1+O1= widen brand reach and consumer based using influencer marketing
OPPORTUNITIES
1. I n f l u e n c e r m a r k e t i n g 2. I n c r e a s e d d e m a n d f o r sustainability
S1+O2= publish sustainability reports and goals, and ensure transparency in supply chains S2+O1= PR/ influencer campaign to communicate ‘made to last’ products
EXTERNAL
S2+O2= introduce clothing rental system in-store
S1+T1= translate strong brand identity into omnichannel offering
T H R E AT S
1.
High street decline
2. C o n s u m e r p r e f e r e n c e for French brands/ products
S1+T2= meet consumer demand for local products by introducing French-made collection S2+T1= extend in-store product rental service online S2+T2= utilise local influencers to promote new French-made collection
WEAKNESSES
1.
Single distribution centre
2.
Late to omnichannel
W 1 + O 1 = e s t a b l i s h n e w, centralised distribution centre to supply to a wider influencer base W 1 + O 2 = e s t a b l i s h a n e w, centralised distribution centre in Western Europe W2+O1= strengthen omnichannel offering through influencer marketing W2+O2= improve omnichannel offering to promote sustainable products W1+T1= fulfil online orders more sustainably via a centralised distribution centre W1+T2= launch collection manufactured in France to eradicate need to widespread distribution W2+T1= strengthen online offering to combat high street decline W2+T2= include Frenchmade collection online for shoppers in France
Ta b l e 9 . T O W S M a t r i x A n a l y s i s ( a d a p t e d f r o m W e i h r i c h , 1 9 8 2 ) .
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4.1.4 MARKET ENTRY METHOD In true brand style, Filippa K will expand internationally into France through the agency of a flagship store - a mode of foreign investment that is quickly becoming the brand's signature. Generally characterised by a single-brand product offering and unshared ownership, the establishment of a flagship store will endow Filippa K complete control over the venture, and t h u s i t s b r a n d i m a g e a n d i n t e g r i t y ( K o z i n e t s e t . a l , 2 0 0 2 ) . M o r e o v e r, e m p l o y i n g t h i s m e t h o d o f market entry will act as a landmark for Filippa K, helping to generate brand consciousness and salience within the new market.
Figure 31. Risk and Control Continuum (adapted from Moore et al., 2007)
Though operating a flagship store will provide Filippa K with high levels of brand autonomy and f l e x i b i l i t y, t h e r e i s a m u l t i t u d e o f a s s o c i a t e d r i s k s ; t h e m o s t c o m p e l l i n g o f w h i c h i s t h e substantial investment required. Thus, an inability for Filippa K to correctly capture its target demographic and acquire their custom may have dire financial consequences for the brand.
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4 . 2 T R A D I N G A R E A A N A LY S I S 4 . 2 . 1 F L A G S H I P S TO R E L O C AT I O N Situated in the heart of the First Arrondissement in Paris lies Rue Saint-Honoré - a central s h o p p i n g d i s t r i c t w h i c h i s q u i c k l y b e c o m i n g o n e o f t h e m o s t p r o m i n e n t i n t h e c i t y. W i t h a considerable number of Filippa K's rivals located here, establishing a flagship store on Rue Saint-Honoré presents an immense opportunity for the brand to capitalise on its proximity to competitors. This 'friendly fire' positioning tactic will render Filippa synonymous with its foreign domestic competitors and will elevate brand image due to its adjacency to high-fashion and designer outlets.
Fig. 32
Proposed Store Front (Author ’s Own, 2020).
The opulence and grandeur associated with the district have rendered Rue Saint-Honoré one of the major hotspots for Paris Fashion Week, with designers like Virgil Abloh opening pop-up s t o r e s i n t h e a r e a f o r t h e o c c a s i o n ( S a w y e r, 2 0 2 0 ) . A l s o , t h e F r e n c h c a p i t a l h o s t i n g t h e 2 0 2 4 Olympic games, the retail traffic that will result from these high-profile events cements Rue Saint-Honoré as a prime location for Filippa K.
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4 . 2 . 2 K E Y P L AY E R S O N R U E S A I N T- H O N O R É
FURLA
281 408
277 ESCADA
275
404
LONGCHAMP
HUBLOT
271
400
TA R A J A R M O N
269
398
A N N E F O N TA I N E
382
CHANEL
380
AUDEMARS PIGUET
378
TOM FORD
376
JIMMI CHOO
267 261
MORABITO MESSIKA
259
WOLFORD
257
CADOLLE
255
CHLOÉ
253
TUMI
245
MICHEL PERRU
243
F R AT E L L I R O S S E T T I
237
GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI
233
CHURCH’S
229
PA U L E K A
223
BALENCIAGA
346
MIU MIU
219
COLETTE
213
MULBEERRY
R U E S A I N T- H O N O R É
R O B E R T O C AVA L L I
374
370
VIKTOR & ROLF
368
EMPORIO ARMANI
366
MIKI HOUSE
362
OMEGA
358
C H O PA R D
352
G O YA R D
350
GUCCI
348
M O Y N AT
207
346
BALENCIAGA
THE KOOPLES
191
326
JO MALONE
FREY WILLE
169
Fig. 33 Rue Saint-Honoré Retail Outlets (Author ’s Own, 2020).
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4.3 PRODUCT AND PRICE 4 . 3 . 1 A L L O C AT I O N O F M E R C H A N D I S E The merchandise allocation for the Paris flagship is a direct reflection of the actual purchasing trends and behaviour of French consumers via Filippa K's e-commerce website. Correlating this data with the flagship store's product assortment will generate a more desirable product offering and encourage a high rate of footfall in-store. Following in the footsteps of Filippa K's most recent expansion venture in Amsterdam, the Paris flagship will cater initially only to its female consumers.
Accessories Outerwear
Dresses Tops
Bottoms
Fig. 34 Paris Flagship Merchandise Allocation (adapted from Edited, 2020).
Following in the footsteps of the brand's recent international expansion into Amsterdam, Filippa K Paris will cater initially only to its female consumers in order to standardise merchandise allocation across its new flagships. The Paris store, like its Dutch counterpart, will incorporate Filippa K Soft Sport into its product assortment due to the high level of prosperity the collection has brought to the brand.
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4.3.1 PRICE ARCHITECTURE The Filippa K Paris flagship store will adopt the same pricing strategy and architecture as their sister outlets in other areas of Western Europe in order to standardise pricing within the same c u r r e n c y. F i l i p p a K c u r r e n t l y a p p l i e s a n a d d i t i o n a l 2 0 % o n p r o d u c t s s o l d o u t s i d e o f S c a n d i n a v i a to account for logistics costs from their Stockholm-based distribution centre, as well meeting the
High
PREMIUM
ECONOMY
P E N E T R AT I O N
PRICE
SKIMMING
Low
legal minimum wages for workers in production countries (Fair Wear Foundation, 2017.
Low
High QUALITY Fig. 35 Filippa K Pricing Strategy (adapted from Duke, 1994).
To a c c o u n t f o r s i g n i f i c a n t p r o d u c t i o n c o s t s ( r e s u l t i n g i n h i g h - q u a l i t y p r o d u c t s ) , F i l i p p a K a d o p t s a p r e m i u m p r i c i n g s t r a t e g y. C o n s u m e r s i n t h e P a r i s f l a g s h i p w i l l l i k e l y w e l c o m e t h i s p r e m i u m price due to 70% of French consumers expecting companies to facilitate and invest in ' s u s t a i n a b l e d e v e l o p m e n t ' ( S a n t a n d e r Tr a d e , 2 0 2 0 a ) .
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4.4 PLACE AND PROMOTION 4.4.1 FLAGSHIP STORE DESIGN Contributing to the brand’s intensifying notoriety is their highly distinguishable retail store design. A visual translation of the company’s ethos of sustainability and minimalism, Filippa K retail outlets utilise robust materials like marble and elm as a metaphor for its commitment to long-lasting, classic design (Hallström, 2018). Filippa K will standardise this minimal store design for the Paris flagship to recreate a genuine Scandinavian feel in-store, and differentiate its retail environment from consumers.
Fig. 36 Filippa K Retail Environment (Pinterest, 2020).
VISUAL MERCHANDISING • •
Marketing displays (such as tables and shelving) will be utilised to advertise products in alternative way Solid materials like marble, wood and metal used to signify the brand’s commitment to sustainability
W I N D O W D I S P L AY S • •
The flagship store will utilise its large glass shop front to display promotional mannequins Displays will communicate theme of minimalism externally to onlooking consumers
Fig. 37 Filippa K Flagship Operations (Pinterest, 2020).
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4.4.2 FLAGSHIP STORE FLOOR PLAN
S O F T S P O R T F E AT U R E W A L L
MIRROR
S H E LV E S
FITTING
ROOMS
S O F T S P O R T F E AT U R E W A L L
MIRROR
CASH DESK
F I L I P PA K C O L L E C T I O N
L E A F WA L L
M A R B L E TA B L E D I S P L AY
F I L I P PA K COLLECTION
M A R B L E TA B L E D I S P L AY
WINDOW MANNEQUINS
WINDOW MANNEQUINS
ENTRANCE/ EXIT
Fig. 38
Flagship Store Design (Author ’s Own, 2020).
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4.4.3 PROMOTIONAL ACTIVITIES
ONLINE CHANNELS
1
E-COMMERCE WEBSITE • Communicate the launch of the new Paris flagship store • Include the new flagship on the brand’s store locator page
2
I N S TA G R A M • Regular image sharing, including images of the flagship store launch • Compose a hashtag to create brand awareness and hype around the brand • Utilise live stream and IGTV features to provide followers with a more in-depth insight into the store launch
OFFLINE CHANNELS
1
F L A G S H I P O P E N I N G PA RT Y / C O L L E C T I O N L A U N C H E S • Invite notable celebrities, figures and influencers to launch events • Opportunity to view new collections prior to launch
2
PRINT MEDIA • Advertise new Filippa K store launch in regional/ national fashion magazines and newspaper to generale interest
3
GUERILLA MARKETING • Generate interest for the new Filippa K store through consumers adorning canvas tote bags with the ‘Filippa K Paris’ logo on them
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4.5 PEOPLE AND PROCESSES 4.5.1 PEOPLE AND PROCESSES IN-STORE
R E TA I L E M P L O Y E E S
PEOPLE
Dressed in all black so as not to detract from the clothing in-store, and to reflect the minimalist nature of the brand Smart attire to reflect the high-quality image of the brand Scandinavian-style high quality customer service at all times
PROCESSES
CUSTOMER SERVICE
Provide style and fit advise to customers Have an extensive knowledge of both Filippa K and Filippa K Soft Sport Products Ensure the smooth-running of customer journeys in-store
54 =
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4.5 PHYSICAL EVIDENCE 4 . 5 . 2 S TO R E AT M O S P H E R I C S
STORE ENVIRONMENT
STORE IMAGE
S T O R E T H E AT R I C S
EXTERNAL IMPRESSIONS: sleek, high-class, modern
DÉCOR THEMES: minimalist Scandinavian design STORE EVENTS: Flagship store launch, launch of new collections, influencer collaborations
INTERNAL IMPRESSIONS: refined, open, clean
S T O R E AT M O S P H E R I C S S I G H T: b r i g h t , n a t u r a l c o l o u r p a l e t t e SOUND: medium-slow tempo Swedish music to encourage consumers to migrate around the store slowly S C E N T: n a t u r a l s c e n t o f t h e t r e e s a n d plants in-store TOUCH: sleek marble, wood, metal
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4.5.3 CUSTOMER JOURNEY PROCESS
S O F T S P O R T F E AT U R E W A L L
MIRROR
S H E LV E S
FITTING
ROOMS
S O F T S P O R T F E AT U R E W A L L
MIRROR
CASH DESK
F I L I P PA K C O L L E C T I O N
L E A F WA L L
M A R B L E TA B L E D I S P L AY
F I L I P PA K COLLECTION
M A R B L E TA B L E D I S P L AY
WINDOW MANNEQUINS
WINDOW MANNEQUINS
ENTRANCE/ EXIT Convenience-seeking consumer Experience-seeking consumer
Fig. 39
Flagship Store Customer Journey (Author ’s Own, 2020).
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4 . 6 S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y A N D C S R 4 . 6 . 1 S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y A N D C S R S T R AT E G I E S Filippa K has committed to increasing its sustainable practices in-store through cutting down on plastic bag consumption. In the launch of the Paris flagship, Filippa K will produce canvas tote bags to replace plastic bags, as well as acting as a form of guerrilla marketing in advertising the new store.
F i g . 4 F i l i p p a K C a n v a s To t e B a g ( A u t h o r ’ s O w n , 2 0 2 0 ) .
The brand has also established close relations with circular fashion initiatives in markets such as its native Sweden, Norway and Denmark. Adopting this practice, as well as the canvas tote bag, in the launch of Filippa K Paris will be an incentive for consumers to shop with the brand due to the low level of ‘indulgence’ in consumer purchasing behaviour (Hofstede Insights, 2020).
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5.1 CONCLUSION 5.1.1 CONCLUSION To a c h i e v e g l o b a l b r a n d s t a t u s , F i l i p p a K m u s t c o n t i n u e t h e i r c a m p a i g n o f i n t e r n a t i o n a l b r a n d expansion, and enter viable markets where appropriate. Leveraging their chief value propositions of classic design and sustainable practices, Filippa K can fill a considerable gap within the womenswear market and outperform many of their global and foreign domestic competitors.
As the general societal shift toward sustainable consumption and eco-consciousness continues to speed up, Filippa K can utilise their well-established brand reputation and identity to capitalise on this trend.
Filippa K should continue to enter international markets through the medium of flagship stores, as they have become brand landmarks in these countries.
H o w e v e r, o n e o f F i l i p p a K ' s m o s t c r i t i c a l d o w n f a l l s , a n d b a r r i e r s t o i t s i n t e r n a t i o n a l e x p a n s i o n , is its lack of centralised distribution. In its absence, Filippa K has resorted to outsourcing much of its online trade to secondary retailers, thus detracting from its e-commerce website. Rectifying these issues, alongside employing the use of influencer marketing, would propel Filippa K to new heights, and pave the way for global brand status.
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REFERENCES Hill, C. and Jones, G., (2002). ‘Strategic Management: An Integrated Approach’. Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing, Boston, Massachusetts. Approach’, Houghton Miffin Press. H ü b n e r, A . , H o l z a p f e l , A . a n d K u h n , H . ( 2 0 1 6 ) , ‘ D i s t r i b u t i o n s y s t e m s i n o m n i - c h a n n e l r e t a i l i n g ’ , J o u r n a l o f B u s i n e s s R e s e a r c h , Vo l . 9 , p p . 2 5 5 - 2 9 6 . Hvant, K.K. (2015), ‘Business Model Innovation through Second-Hand Retailing: A Fashion I n d u s t r y ’ . T h e J o u r n a l o f C o r p o r a t e C i t i z e n s h i p , ( 5 7 ) , 11 - 3 2 . Ietto-Gillies, G. (2019), ‘The Handbook of Globalisation’, Third Edition, Edited by Jonathan Michie, Edward Elgar Publishing, Cheltenham, United Kingdom. J a c k s o n , T. a n d S h a w, D . ( 2 0 0 9 ) , ‘ M a s t e r i n g F a s h i o n M a r k e t i n g ’ , P a l g r a v e M a c m i l l a n I n t e r n a t i o n a l Higher Education. K a p f e r e r, J . N . ( 1 9 8 6 ) , ‘ T h e N e w S t r a t e g i c B r a n d M a n a g e m e n t : C r e a t i n g a n d S u s t a i n i n g B r a n d E q u i t y L o n g Te r m ’ , K o g a n P a g e P r e s s , L o n d o n a n d P h i l i d e l p h a . K o z i n e t s , R . V. , S h e r r y, J . F. , D e b e r r y - S p e n c e , B . , D u h a c h e k , S . , N u t t a v u t h i s i t , K . a n d S t o r m , K . ( 2 0 0 2 ) , ‘ T h e m e d f l a g s h i p s b r a n d s t o r e s i n t h e n e w m i l l e n n i u m : t h e o r y, p r a c t i c e , p r o s p e c t s ’ , J o u r n a l o f R e t a i l i n g , Vo l . 7 8 , N o . 1 , p p . 1 7 - 2 9 . L e v i n , A . ( 2 0 2 0 ) , ‘ I n f l u e n c e r M a r k e t i n g f o r B r a n d s : W h a t Yo u Tu b e a n d I n s t a g r a m C a n Te a c h Yo u A b o u t t h e F u t u r e o f D i g i t a l A d v e r t i s i n g ’ . F i r s t E d i t i o n , A p r e s s P u b l i s h i n g . B e r k l e y, C a l i f o r n i a . M a n g a n a r i , E . E . , S i o m k o s , G . J . , Vr e c h o p o l o u s , A . P. , ‘ S t o r e a t m o s p h e r e i n w e b r e t a i l i n g ’ , E u r o p e a n J o u r n a l o f M a r k e t i n g , Vo l . 4 3 , N o . 9 / 1 0 , p p . 11 4 0 - 11 5 3 . McKinsey (2008), ‘Enduring Ideas: The GE-McKinsey nine-box matrix’ [online]. Available at: https:// w w w. m c k i n s e y. c o m / b u s i n e s s - f u n c t i o n s / s t r a t e g y - a n d - c o r p o r a t e - f i n a n c e / o u r - i n s i g h t s / e n d u r i n g - i d e a s t h e - g e - a n d - m c k i n s e y - n i n e - b o x - m a t r i x . A c c e s s e d o n 11 / 0 5 / 2 0 . Mintel (2019a), ‘Owner Cafom puts Habitat up for sale’ [online]. Available at: https:// reports.mintel.com/sinatra/oxygen/display/id=980546? fromSearch=%3Ffilters.region%3D52%26freetext%3Dhigh%2520street%26last_filter%3Dregion. Accessed on 18/04/20. Mintel (2019b), ‘Fashion and Sustainability – UK – August 2019’ [online]. Available at: https:// reports.mintel.com/display/920552/? fromSearch=%3Ffreetext%3Dtrust%2520fashion%2520brand%2520as%2520a%2520source%2520of %2520information. Accessed on 1/05/20. M o o r e , C . M , D o h e r t y, A . M . a n d D o y l e , S . A . ( 2 0 0 7 ) , ‘ F l a g s h i p s t o r e s a s a m a r k e t e n t r y m e t h o d : t h e p e r s p e c t i v e o f l u x u r y f a s h i o n r e t a i l i n g ’ , E u r o p e a n J o u r n a l o f M a r k e t i n g , Vo l . 4 4 , N o . 1 - 2 , p p . 139-161. N i i n i m ä k i , K . a n d H a s s i , L . ( 2 0 11 ) , ‘ E m e r g i n g d e s i g n s t r a t e g i e s i n s u s t a i n a b l e p r o d u c t i o n a n d c o n s u m p t i o n o f t e x t i l e s a n d c l o t h i n g ’ , J o u r n a l o f C l e a n e r P r o d u c t i o n , Vo l . 1 9 , p p . 1 8 7 6 - 1 8 8 3 . Norval, S. (2020), ‘Fighting climate change: The importance of biodiversity’ [online]. Available at: h t t p s : / / w w w. f r a n c e 2 4 . c o m / e n / 2 0 2 0 0 1 2 0 - p e r s p e c t i v e - a l e k s a n d a r - r a n k o v i c - f i g h t i n g - c l i m a t e - c h a n g e biodiversity-cop-1. Accessed on 15/04/20. 61 REFERENCE LIST
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REFERENCES Roux, C. (2020), ‘In ‘locked-down’ France, new habits are forming’ [online]. Available at: https:// clients.mintel.com/trend/in-locked-down-france-new-habits-are-forming. Accessed on 16/04/20. Russell, M. (2019), ‘Filippa K debuts water repellent technology for clothing’ Salo, S. and Rydgren, J. (2018), ‘Politicisation of the Eurozone crisis in Finland: adaptation toward t h e r a d i c a l r i g h t ? ’ , J o u r n a l o f I n t e r n a t i o n a l a n d C o m p a r a t i v e S o c i a l P o l i c y, Vo l . 3 4 , N o . 3 , p p . 234-257. S a n t a n d e r Tr a d e ( 2 0 2 0 a ) , ‘ F r a n c e : R e a c h i n g t h e C o n s u m e r ’ [ o n l i n e ] . A v a i l a b l e a t : h t t p s : / / santandertrade.com/en/portal/analyse-markets/france/reaching-the-consumers. Accessed on 16/04/20. S a w y e r, J . ( 2 0 2 0 ) , ‘ V i r g i l A b l o h O p e n s O f f - W h i t e P o p - U p i n P a r i s f o r F a s h i o n W e e k ’ [ o n l i n e ] . A v a i l a b l e a t : h t t p s : / / w w w. h i g h s n o b i e t y. c o m / p / o f f - w h i t e - p a r i s - f a s h i o n - w e e k - p o p - u p / . A c c e s s e d o n 11 / 0 5 / 2 0 . S t a t i s t a ( 2 0 1 9 ) , ‘ Tu r n o v e r o f t h e F i l i p p a K G r o u p f r o m 2 0 11 t o 2 0 1 8 ’ [ o n l i n e ] . A v a i l a b l e a t h t t p s : / / w w w. s t a t i s t a . c o m / s t a t i s t i c s / 7 8 1 9 3 4 / t u r n o v e r - o f - t h e - f l i p p a - k - g r o u p / . A c c e s s e d o n 2 3 / 0 5 / 2 0 . S t a t i s t a ( 2 0 2 0 ) , ‘ To u r i s m i n P a r i s – S t a t i s t i c s & F a c t s ’ [ o n l i n e ] . A v a i l a b l e a t : h t t p s : / / w w w. s t a t i s t a . c o m / t o p i c s / 6 3 1 4 / t o u r i s m - i n - p a r i s / . A c c e s s e d o n 1 6 / 0 5 / 2 0 . Thomson, R. (2020), ‘Sustainability Scandi-style with Filippa K’ [online]. A v a i l a b l e a t : h t t p s : / / w w w. d r a p e r s o n l i n e . c o m / b u s i n e s s - o p e r a t i o n s / s u s t a i n a b i l i t y - s c a n d i - s t y l e - w i t h filippa-k/7030923.article. Accessed on 16/04/20. To n n e l i e r, A . ( 2 0 2 0 a ) , ‘ W h a t r e c o v e r y p o l i c y i n F r a n c e f o r t h e p o s t - c o r o n a v i r u s c r i s i s ? [ o n l i n e ] . A v a i l a b l e a t : h t t p s : / / w w w. l e m o n d e . f r / p o l i t i q u e / a r t i c l e / 2 0 2 0 / 0 4 / 1 5 / q u e l l e - p o l i t i q u e - d e - r e l a n c e - e n france-pour-l-apres-crise-du-coronavirus_6036643_823448.html. Accessed on 15/04/20. To n n e l i e r, A . ( 2 0 2 0 b ) , ‘ C o r o n a v i r u s : T h e S t a t e d o u b l e s i t s p l a n t o s u p p o r t t h e e c o n o m y, t o 1 0 0 b i l l i o n e u r o s ’ [ o n l i n e ] . A v a i l a b l e a t : h t t p s : / / w w w. l e m o n d e . f r / p o l i t i q u e / a r t i c l e / 2 0 2 0 / 0 4 / 0 9 / f i n a n c e s publiques-2020-sera-pire-que-2009_6036146_823448.html. Accessed on 15/04/20. Tr e c y, M . a n d W i e r s e m a , F. ( 1 9 9 3 ) , ‘ C u s t o m e r I n t i m a c y a n d O t h e r Va l u e D i s c i p l i n e s ’ , J o u r n a l o f Operations Management, January – February 1993 Issue. Weirich, H. (1982), ‘The TOWS matrix – a tool for situational analysis’, Journal of Long Range P l a n n i n g , Vo l . 1 5 , N o . 2 , p p . 5 4 - 6 6 . Z a r e t s k y, R . ( 2 0 2 0 ) , ‘ E m m a n u e l M a c r o n i s u s i n g t h e c o r o n a v i r u s t o r e b o o t h i s p r e s i d e n c y ’ [ o n l i n e ] . A v a i l a b l e a t : h t t p s : / / w w w. w a s h i n g t o n p o s t . c o m / o p i n i o n s / 2 0 2 0 / 0 3 / 2 1 / e m m a n u e l - m a c r o n - i s - u s i n g coronavirus-reboot-his-presidency/. Accessed on 26/03/20.
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APPENDICIES A P P E N D I X 1 . 2 0 3 0 S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y G O A L S
1 2 3
CONSCIOUS DESIGN FOR A BETTER FUTURE • Using only sustainable materials • Designing only recyclable styles
S U S TA I N A B L E S O U R C I N G A N D M A N U FA C T U R E • Having full transparency in supply chain • Using only sustainable production processes
RESOURCE EFFICIENT BUSINESS • Ensuring accurate purchasing precision in number of pieces produced • Minimising footprint throughout the business
4 5
R E S P E C T I N G P E O P L E I N T H E S U P P LY C H A I N • Insisting upon total compliance with Filippa K’s Code of Conduct based on company values
L O N G - T E R M S U S TA I N A B L E S U C C E S S • Cultivating professional long-term partnerships • Sustaining a profit level of more than 10% EBT • Sustaining a growth in comparable units
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A P P E N D I X 2 . F U L L VA L U E C H A I N A N A LY S I S
SUPPORT ACTIVITIES FIRM INFRASTRUCTIVE
HUMAN RESOURCES
• Filippa K operates at a corporate level, and acts as the parent brand for Filippa K Man, Filippa K Soft Sport and Filippa K Circle. • Filippa K’s head office is located in Stockholm, Sweden, and operates additional offices throughout Europe (including the UK). • Amassing a workforce of 400 employees globally, Filippa K offers ‘flexible working hours’, ‘health and clothing benefits’, ‘accessible communication channels’ and ‘development opportunities’ to act. as a vanguard of the modern workplace (Filippa K, 2020). • The ‘working environment handbook’ outlines company policy on key issues such as discrimination, sexual harassment and substance abuse (Filippa K, 2018). • Management must ensure that these policies are not in conflict with the legislation of their respective countries or regions, and are responsible for monitoring the adequate implementation of these policies (Filippa K, 2018).
TECHNOLOGY DEVELOPMENT
• Filippa K invests in technology to facilitate the sustainable production of their garments, including pioneering the water-repelling ‘OrganoClick’ technology (Russell, 2018). • Technology is also utilised by the brand to support the transparency of garment production.
PROCUREMENT
• Global supply chain, with the majority done in Europe, followed by a small volume in Asia (China, India and Vietnam) and South America (Chile). • All partners of Filippa K, including supplier companies and trading agents are required to act in ‘complicance with [the] Code of Conduct’ (Filippa K, 2018).
PRIMARY ACTIVITIES INBOUND LOGISTICS
O P E R AT I O N S
OUTBOUND LOGISTICS MARKETING AND SALES
SERVICE
• All products are designed, developed, and ultimately distributed from the Filippa K head office in Stockholm. • For any unsold seasonal products are sent to one of three outlet stores in Norway and Sweden. Any items which have still not been flogged are donated to charitable organisations, like the Swedish Red Cross (Filippa K, 2018). • Worldwide delivery • Filippa K’s online store is partnered with DHL Express • All orders orders are fully traceable using DHL tracking • Free standard shipping for all shipping locations for orders over £120. • 38 European stores, with 20 in Sweden, five in Belgium, three in Germany, four in Norway, two in Denmark and four in the Netherlands. • Sell and ship worldwide via their e-commerce site • Farfetch and Amazon act as third-party points of sale for Filippa K. • Filippa K operates on multiple social media sites, including Instagram, Facebook, Pinterest and LinkedIn, acquiring a following of over 325,000 across all platforms. • Direct marketing, particularly email, to communicate sales promotion or the launch of a new product/ range. • Outsourced public relations to PR agencies in Stocholm, Copenhagen, London, Amsterdam, Antwerp, Berlin and Montreal. • Swedish and English speaking customer care team to assist with issues and grievances, including live chat system online. • Free standard shipping for all shipping locations for orders over £120 (9-5 Monday to Friday). • Free 30-day returns
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APPENDIX 3. PROFIT AND LOSS ACCOUNT
Notes
£
Fixed assets Ta n g i b l e a s s e t s
3
Current assets Debtors Cash at band and in hand
4
Creditors: amounts falling due within one year
5
£
16,848
47,792 42,458 90,250 (56,688)
Net current assets
33,562
To t a l a s s e t s l e s s c u r r e n t liabilities
6
50,410
Provisions for liabilities
(2,774)
Net assets
47,636
Capital and reserves Called up share capital Profit and loss reserves
7
1,000 46,636
To t a l e q u i t y
47,636
Appendix 1. Statement of Financial Position (Companies House, 2019)
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A P P E N D I X 4 . F U L L P E S T E L A N A LY S I S
ISSUES
P ECONOMIC
S SOCIAL
1. R e d u c e d f o o t f a l l i n l a r g e cities 2. I n c r e a s e d s u p p o r t f o r feminism and female representation in government
1. P u b l i c d e b t e x p e c t e d t o c l i m b t o 11 2 % 2. I M F f o r e c a s t s a r e b o u n d of 5.8% growth in 2021 (France24, 2020) 3. 2 3 % r i s e i n o n l i n e expenditure (al-Shaalan, 2020)
1. D e c r e a s e i n c o n s u m e r 1. R e w a r d a n d c o n n e c t w i t h spending due to customers to ensure recession loyalty 2. E c o n o m i c u p t u r n , l e a d i n g 2. O p p o r t u n i t y t o d r i v e s a l e s to increasing consumer and capture new markets spending 3. C r e a t e s t r o n g o n l i n e 3. M o r e c o n s u m e r s s h o p p i n g offering to keep pace with online competitors
1. I n c r e a s e d d e m a n d f o r purposeful brands 2. 1 / 3 i n t e r n e t u s e r s f o l l o w a n i n f l u e n c e r ( S a n t a n d e r, 2020) 3. R i s e o f I s l a m o p h o b i a a n d sectarianism
1. C o n s u m e r s s e e k t o a d o p t 1. P r o v i d e t r a n s p a r e n c y a n d more responsible traceability in supply purchasing behaviour chains and production 2. I n f l u e n c e r s b e c o m i n g 2. I m p l e m e n t e f f e c t i v e most prominent marketing influencer marketing tool 3. E n s u r e p o l i t i c a l a n d 3. G o v e r n m e n t i n t e r v e n t i o n religious neutrality in line to ensure neutrality with government regulation
1. F r e n c h c o n s u m e r s concerned with data protection and usage 2. I n c r e a s e d c o n n e c t i v i t y i n store via apps and tablets 3. R i s e o f a u g m e n t e d r e a l i t y TECHNOLOGICAL in online stores (Mintel, 2020b)
T
E
I M P L I C AT I O N S
1. P r o t e s t s b y ‘ y e l l o w v e s t s ’ over workers rights 2. M a y o r a l e l e c t i o n s i n P a r i s dominated by female candidates
POLITICAL
E
M A R K E T I M PA C T
1. D e m a n d f o r i n t e r n e t privacy 2. C u s t o m e r s a t t r a c t e d t o in-store technological advancements 3. O n l i n e c o n s u m e r s d r i v e n to innovative sties
1. Tr a n s l a t e s t r o n g i n - s t o r e presence online 2. C a p t u r e m a r k e t b y k e e p i n g feminism central to business operations
1. E n s u r e s a f e a n d s e c u r e online operations 2. S i m p l i f y i n - s t o r e experience through technology 3. R e p l i c a t e i n - s t o r e experience online to connect with customers
1. Yo u n g p e o p l e i n c r e a s i n g l y 1. M a r k e t d e m a n d f o r aware of climate change sustainable practices (Norval, 2020) 2. M o r a l r e s p o n s i b i l i t y f o r 2. E u r o p e a n P a r l i a m e n t businesses declares ‘climate emergency’
1. C a p t u r e m a r k e t t h r o u g h sustainability and slow fashion focus 2. M o r a l a n d e t h i c a l responsibility to uphold sustainable practices
1. M a c r o n h e a d s “ F a s h i o n 1. S u s t a i n a b i l i t y a n t i c i p a t e d Pact” at G7 summit by consumers 2. C o n t r o v e r s i a l p e n s i o n 2. D e c r e a s e i n c o n s u m e r reform bill passed, raising spending among older the retirement age and consumers, increased reducing pay-outs investment spending (France24, 2020)
1. B r i n g s u s t a i n a b i l i t y t o t h e forefront of marketing operations 2. Tr a n s l a t e i n - s t o r e experience online to capture older generation
E N V I R O N M E N TA L
L
LEGAL
66 C O U N T R Y A N A LY S I S : F R A N C E
filippa-k.com
A P P E N D I X 5 . D I R E C T C O M P E T I TO R A N A LY S I S DIRECT COMPETITORS: DOMESTIC BRANDS
THE KOOPLES
SANDRO
MAJE
MARKET LANDSCAPE
324 stores across Europe and North America
500 stores across Europe, North America, the Middle East, Asia and Oceania
150 stores across Europe, North America, South America, the Middle East, Asia and Oceania
KEY PRODUCT OFFERING
Apparel, accessories and footwear in main boutique collection Ready-to-wear range
Apparel, accessories and footwear in main boutique collection Ready-to-wear range
Apparel, accessories and footwear in main boutique collection Ready-to-wear range
TARGET AUDIENCE
18-35 year old women and men
25-35 year old women and men
18-35 year old women
OMNICHANNEL PRESENCE
E-Commerce website and product purchasing via social media platforms
E-Commerce website and product purchasing via social media platforms
E-Commerce website and product purchasing via social media platforms
D I R E C T C O M P E T I T O R S : I N T E R N AT I O N A L M A R K E T E N T R I E S
COS
& OTHER STORIES
ALLSAINTS
MARKET LANDSCAPE
240 stores across Europe, North America, Asia, the Middle East and Oceania
70 stores across Europe, North America and Asia
232 stores across Europe, North America and Asia
KEY PRODUCT OFFERING
Apparel, accessories, footwear, homeware and childrenswear
Apparel, accessories, footwear and beauty
Apparel, accessories, footwear and fragrance
20-45 year old women
18-35 year old women and men
E-Commerce website and product purchasing via social media platforms
E-Commerce website, product purchasing via social media platforms and mobile application
TARGET AUDIENCE 25-50 year old women and men
OMNICHANNEL PRESENCE
E-Commerce website and product purchasing via social media platforms
67 APPENDICES
filippa-k.com
A P P E N D I X 6 . I N D I R E C T C O M P E T I TO R A N A LY S I S INDIRECT COMPETITORS
H&M
ASOS
ZARA
MARKET LANDSCAPE
5,096 across Europe, North America and Asia
One e-commerce site shipping 2.250 stores across Europe, to 239 countries and territories North America, South America globally and Asia
KEY PRODUCT OFFERING
Apparel, accessories, footwear, homeware and childrenswear
Apparel, accessories, footwear, homewear, beauty and gifts
Apparel, accessories, footwear, homeware and childrenswear
TARGET AUDIENCE
16-35 year old women and men
18-35 year old women and men
18-35 year old women and men
OMNICHANNEL PRESENCE
E-Commerce website, product E-Commerce website, product E-Commerce website, product purchasing via social media purchasing via social media purchasing via social media platforms and mobile platforms and mobile platforms and mobile application application application
68 APPENDICES
filippa-k.com
Filippa K
filippa-k.com