Rouge Magazine SS22 by Rouge Magazine

ROUGE MAGAZINE VOL. III, ISSUE II S/S 2022 ROUGE MAGAZINE

VOL. III, ISSUE II S/S 2022

ON THE

RUN!

OUG

RUN WITH ROUGE!

@rouge.mag | www.rougemag.squarespace.com | editors.rouge@gmail.com

Rouge Magazine is the official fashion magazine at the University of Georgia, founded in August 2007 by three students within the College of Family and Consumer Sciences who recognized a need for a fashion oriented publication. It became a registered student organization in 2008. Rouge is a biannual, full color publication funded by dues and a once-yearly allowance from the University’s College of Family and Consumer Sciences. The community of Athens, Georgia is one that Rouge is devoted to supporting through featuring local boutiques in the styling process, photographing various locations around the area, and engaging with the fashionloving population through events and social media. Each issue is designed entirely from scratch by members of the Rouge staff in conjunction with the executive board and can best be described as the product of eager passion and a true love for the fashion industry. Rouge aims to create content that inspires the student body to be bold, to serve as a resource for fashion related events from a variety of perspectives, and to stitch together a publication each semester that all students can draw something from, whether it be style inspiration, knowledge of the fashion industry, or an aesthetically pleasing graphic design scheme.

CONTRIB Editor in Chief | Cece Grosz

Creative Director | Margaux Binder Director of Communications Smriti Tayal Communications Coordinators Alexa Krasner Aryan Belde Aude-Ellen Nangle Chanel Gaynor Emma Nestor Jax Fox Joyce Kabuya Kayla Moradi Keely Hallinan Keertana Konduru Keisha Chestnut Lauren Pittard Linda Tran Maria Van Livingston Marisa Gu Miya Grant Nikita Govani Ny’Asia Keys Renata Navarro Savannah Hernandez Shreya Sawant Sophie Baker Sydney Fogarty Taylor Watkins Tori Pasquale

Graphic Design Editors Edward Feininger Maddy Lyons Graphic Designers Analiese Herrin

Jacqueline Adams

Director of Visual Content Anushka Karnik Photographers Amal Supariwala Arantxa Villa

Jack Casey Jessica Rao Maddy Lyons Savannah Hernandez Sophie McLeod

Videographer Logan Crump

Director of Writing Lillian Maple Copy-Editors Alexis Derickson Alicia Saltsman Grace Maneein Logan Crump

Writers

Alma Hernandez Analiese Herrin Emily Ezratty Grace Mains Hannah Rieder Helen Sorme Nancy Lopez Nicole Moreno Ny’Asia Keys Sarah Garner Sarah Stanley Tablow Media Taniya Pierce

Director of Beauty Erin Hickey Beauty Editor Taryn Scott Beauty Assistants Emily Partain Jennifer Hoang Julia O’Neal Mary Boyett Natalie Kramer

Director of Fashion Shira Ben-Simon

BUTORS Director of Fashion Shira Ben-Simon Menswear Fashion Editor Patrick Rice Womenswear Fashion Editor Scotland Geurink Stylists Arantxa Villa Carson Ankeny Chloe Garrison Emma Morgan Emma Nestor Evelyn Krakovski Grace Novey Hannah King Izzy Doulatshahi Jacqueline Adams Jeydon Sirmans Julia Harbison Kate Tracy Katie Slacanin Kim Nguyen Linda Tran Myah Cowart Nancy Lopez Natalie Kramer Nicole Moreno Renata Navarro Sarah Garner Serina Bergeron Sophia Schugt Sophie Baker

Director of Digital Content Mary Renfroe Blog Copy-Editors Isabelle Philip Lily Baldwin Taniya Pierce Trinity Gates

Blog Columnists Alicia Saltsman Hannah Beam Izzy Doulatshahi Mariana Mejia McCain Bracewell Mya Greene Petra Culbertson Shaza Mehdi Sophie McLeod Tablow Media Trinity Gates

Digital Content Coordinators Jax Fox Ahsha Johnson Keely Hallinan

Digital Graphic Designers Edward Feininger Lynsey Owen Serina Bergeron Sophie Difusco

Director of Social Content Sydney Bolin Social Content Creators Aude-Ellen Nangle Emily Partain Eunice Pak Hannah King Jeydon Sirmans Katherine Villaluz Keisha Chestnut Kiyoko Spencer Maria Van Livingston Mariana Mejia Marisa Gu Myah Cowart Niyati Patel Shreya Sawant Sierra Bolin Sydney Staton Valentina Soto

Director of Finance | Monse Morgan 7

FEATURES

Ready for Takeoff

Late Checkout

Do Not Disturb

CONT 10 Letter From The Editor By Cece Grosz

27 Uniquely United: The Legacy of the American Fashion Designer By Grace Mains

Catch Me If You Can Photographed by 34 Has Fast Fashion Casey, Hernandez, Gone Too Far? Supariwala By Emily Ezratty

19 Lost Among the Stars: The Legacy of Sharon Tate By Nicole Moreno

42 1,001 Words: Fashion as Revolution By Nancy Lopez

Freedom in Femininity: The Liberation of the Babydoll Dress By Alicia Saltsman

38 No Vacancy 58 Miu Miu Modernizes Photographed by Casey, Memories from Lyons, McLeod, the ‘70s Supariwala By Ny’Asia Keys

Meet Me at Midnight

Hit the Road

109

The Scenic Route

TENTS 62 The Trend Forecast is in and it’s Raining Catsuits By Taniya Pierce

75 The Contemporary Reinvention of Gendered Clothing By Analiese Herrin

64 When The Stars Come Out Photographed by Hernandez, Rao, Villa

79 Standing on Stardust: The Comeback of Studio 54 Fashion By Hannah Rieder

68 Movie Magic: How Cult Classics Influenced ‘70s Fashion By Helen Sorme

83 These Faux Fur Coats Were Made for Wearin’ By Alma Hernandez

The Getaway Plan Photographed by Casey, Lyons

94 Tough as Boots: The Cowboy’s Return to Fashion By Alexis Derickson 107 Modern Hippies: Running Toward Individuality By Hannah Rieder 112 Roll Credits: Special Thanks

E C E C

Z S O R

SS22

EDITOR’S LETTER

A concept that I believe this staff holds in high esteem is the freedom that fashion brings to the wearer. At the start of the spring semester, we could all feel the hope that a new season brings, as well as an itch for travel that many have had to bottle up for the past two years. The desire for adventure was palpable, and it became apparent that we had to dive into it for inspiration. This issue’s theme, “On the Run,” is a fresh yet classic tribute to the escapades we all wish to experience once classes adjourn for the summer. The four sections weave together the cinematic story of jet-setting to exciting locales, enjoying the leisurely escape of a vacation, wandering stylishly in novel surroundings, and once again setting off to the next destination. A certain appreciation for the past is shared by much of the fashion community, and we derived styling inspiration from the 1960s and ‘70s: an era

encompassing the flirtatious individualism that we wanted to play into. Many written pieces in this issue bring light to the impact of this historical period on fashion as well as culture, as the two always have and always will be intimately connected. As you flip through the pages of this magazine, I invite you to immerse yourself in a narrative which aims to capture the spirit of classic adventure films and a sense of bohemian Americana. It has been a genuine joy to serve as Editor in Chief for my first issue, and I hope you experience as much of a thrill in reading it as this wonderful team did in creating it.

Devotedly,

Cece Grosz

CECE GROSZ, Editor in Chief

Photography by Amal Supariwala, Jack Casey, Savannah Hernandez Styled from the closets of the Rouge Magazine Staff and Athens boutiques

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Model: Melisa Bordianu Melisa’s trench coat from Pitaya 16

Lost Among the

The Legacy of Sharon Tate

By Nicole Moreno As Twiggy’s monochrome geometric prints, sleek boyish hair, and “mod girl” style took Britain by storm, a more feminine aesthetic was coming to fruition in American fashion. Actress Sharon Tate donned a more notably whimsical and delicate look, opting for bell sleeves, babydoll silhouettes, chemise-inspired mini dresses, and busy fabrics. With playful, bohemian, and doll-

like elements, Tate’s unique style complimented the adventurous energy of the 1960s, and catalyzed an innovative fashion revolution. Tate transformed the most basic of garments into the epitome of chic, ethereal, and alluring. Experimenting with a style which her sister Deborah Tate described as a “very eclectic, very free-spirited, and a combination of sexy and 19

child-like innocence”, she elevated her looks and quickly became an inspiration to many (Havlin, 2010). Take her iconic 1968 wedding gown, for instance: a beautiful, ivory, silk moiré, puffy-sleeved mini dress, with baby-blue velvet bow and trim accents, which she complimented with an array of baby’s breath tucked delicately into her pinned-up hair. This look encapsulated the essence of the swinging sixties, and in 2018 the dress sold for $56,000. As she rose to further stardom, Tate’s daring fashion choices began to build momentum and she became a hot topic for tabloids; The New York Sunday News applauded her in an article poetically: “Wearing an abbreviated miniskirt, she seems to enjoy the commotion she causes wherever she goes… her presence in a crowd is as insignificant as a floodlight in a blackout.” (Halvin, 2010). But Tate’s short hemlines and exaggerated eye makeup weren’t just making headlines in 1966. Fendi’s Spring Summer 2020 show channeled the same youthful and sexy energy that she had coined decades before. With heavily-layered looks, timeless flats, bright and playful floral patterns, short hemlines, and muted brown and burnt warm colors, the collection 20

was a nod to Tate’s iconic fashions and the nostalgic trends of the sixties. Modest plaid coats paired with absurdly short skirts and monochrome jumpsuits dressed up with chic details, the collection followed in Tate’s footsteps of girlish innocence with a hint of promiscuity. Albeit, with a modern twist- footwear stayed true to its vintage roots, but appeared with an assortment of vibrant colors, bags were significantly bigger and detailed with excessive fringe and trim, and silhouettes tested the boundaries between oversized and dramatic (Kaliviotis, 2019). The collection triggered a ‘60s revival, with mini skirts and terry-cloth rompers, psychedelic prints, and showing just the right amount of leg in kneehigh boots making its way into everyday fashion. Unfortunately, Tate’s legacy suffered an injustice after her death in the Tate-LaBianca murders of 1969. The heartwrenching tragedy reduced Tate to merely a victim, overshadowing her triumphs. Quentin Tarantino’s Once Upon a Time in Hollywood, released in 2019, liberates Tate from this confining narrative and rightfully casts her as the promising young woman she was. Sifting through

“Wearing an abbreviated miniskirt, she seems to enjoy the commotion she causes wherever she goes… her presence in a crowd is as insignificant as a floodlight in a blackout.” - The New York Sunday News

photographs, visiting Tate’s reallife wardrobe, and consulting with Deborah Tate, extreme care was taken to stay as true to Tate’s persona as possible, ensuring that Margot Robbie, the actress portraying Tate, resembled her. Featured in the film were some of Tate’s more basic looks, like her relaxed black turtleneck, white mini skirt, and matching go-go boots combo. However, the film also honored the more personal aspects of Tate’s personality, such as her opposition to wearing shoes. One look that stands out is Robbie’s yellow mini dress, accessorized with a tan leather fringe satchel, and paired with the closest thing to walking barefoot tan sandals with the thinnest straps. Something about the happy flower

patterns, intricate lace accents, and the way Robbie’s golden blonde hair sways freely, makes you feel like Tate herself styled the film. America throughout the ‘60s was a setting of change, revolution, and liberation. At the frontlines of this fashion revolution was Sharon Tate, who apart from her striking beauty, bright personality, and amazing talent, also possessed an incredible eye for clothing - and an ability to carry herself ever so gracefully and assertively. The fashion world has benefited greatly from starlet Sharon Tate, and her impact can be observed throughout various facets of pop culture. On the runway, on the street, and in cinema - Sharon Tate’s legacy lives on.

tel Model: Shivam Pa

Shivam’s sweater and belt from Kempt

UNIQUELY

By Grace Mains

UNITED The Legacy of the American Fashion Designer

In the 1970s, American brands began to establish themselves as leaders in the fashion industry by addressing the new consumer desires for experimentation and creativity in their closets. As one of the first widely known American fashion designers, Calvin Klein began to make a name for himself in the late ‘60s and ‘70s (Andrews, 2014). Calvin Klein was one of the first brands to define the feminine figure. His sleek suits and confident brand campaigns signified the start of a new era in Americana fashion. Klein had started his business selling understated pieces, but he became a global phenomenon and trailblazer for defining the American fashion industry by creating more scandalous and individualistic clothing campaigns. 27

“From conservative classics to frontpage fashion, Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein have shaped our culture for the better by encouraging experimentation and individuality through their clothing.”

Klein began his brand with select denim collections and undergarment fashions. The models that walked down his runway and covered his store walls had a set career once becoming official faces for Calvin Klein. At this time, controversy arose from Klein’s provocative photo shoots and tighter clothes; but people soon began to step out of their comfort zones and experiment with sexier, more daring styles. Calvin Klein was the fashion brand that adventurous and confident fashionistas could identify with. Another major player in the ‘70s American fashion landscape was Ralph Lauren. Emerging around the same time at Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren released his first full men’s collection (RalphLauren), which was inspired by freedom, excitement, and romance. By 1972, Ralph Lauren released the “polo

shirt” (RalphLauren) which has since become a staple to Americana fashion and has withstood the test of time for the last 50 years. Other brands have created alternate versions of this iconic piece, yet none have been as successful as its creator. During a tumultuous time of war and protests, Ralph Lauren wanted to create a way to provide their consumers with relief and an escape from the social issues of the time. American fashion brands have become a legendary and trailblazing contributor to the global fashion industry, but their significance in the U.S. is unique and unmatched. From conservative classics to frontpage fashion, Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein have shaped our culture for the better by encouraging experimentation and individuality through their clothing.

FA S T

SHI A F

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E TOO

BY EMILY EZRATTY

Fast fashion is a term that was first coined by the New York Times when Zara, a Spanish retail company best known for its quick production and trendy styles, released their new objective. Zara intended to design and produce a garment in just fifteen days. The brand is an extremely well-known name for Gen-Z and millennials, and the retailer certainly competes with new and old trends. Today, walking into Zara feels like a blast from the past. Walls are filled with paisley patterned shift dresses. Palazzo pants are tucked neatly in displays. Mannequins are dressed to the nines in knit sweater vests, flare jeans, and platform wedges. Yes, the 1970s have officially made another comeback, nostalgia tagging along with them. Teenagers of the ‘70s dropped the stiff silhouettes of the ‘60s and traded them in for the chic ready-to-wear styles that would soon sweep the decade. Mixing and matching, experimenting with patterns, and pushing traditional gender stereotypes, women of the era embraced self-expression with their clothing. Vogue once declared, “There are no rules to the fashion game now… you’re playing it and you make up the game as you go” (Vintage Dancer, 2018). The ‘70s was a revolutionary time for women’s fashion. Unsurprisingly, these trends are making a comeback in mainstream retail stores today. All things in the fashion world repeat themselves and are controlled by rhythmic cycles, so it had been prophesied that ‘70s trends would reemerge. This phenomenon, dubbed the trend cycle, is characterized by the cyclical resurgence of trends from earlier periods. However, with the ever increasing speed of the trend cycle encouraged by TikTok hauls and social media trends, this resurgence is likely to become a short blip in the series of microtrends that will define 2022. Single closure cardigans, puffer vests, Birkenstock clogs, and patchwork quilt jeans have already graced this year’s stage and left before intermission. You might not even receive your clothing in the mail before it’s no longer à la mode. This phenomenon greatly contributes to the influx of consumerism and the ever-groing pile of clothes that will end up in landfills. Even worse, companies who produce their clothing unethically are the only ones that can keep up.

“THERE ARE NO RULES TO THE FASHION GAME NOW...

YOU T

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- VO G U E M AG A Z I N E

NG I

AND YOU MAKE UP THE GAME AS YOU GO” 36

Shoppers, unfortunately, justify their single-wear pieces when they donate them to the local Goodwill, where lower-income families can give this clothing a new life before it inevitably falls apart. Victoria’s Secret, Shein, Urban Outfitters, H&M, Zara, Forever21, NastyGal, Hot Topic, Top Shop, Nike, and even Guess are each deemed “brands to avoid” by guides for ethical consumers (Eric, 2021). In order to quickly yield a profit, they exploit their laborers and create poorly crafted clothing. Despite deceiving prices, most clothing made under fast fashion is designed to last only 10 washes before it’s unwearable (PierreLouis, 2019). Even worse, companies producing goods at low costs are inevitably targeting lower-income communities. Many low-income consumers have no choice but to buy what’s readily available second hand, and when the majority of thrift finds are cheaply made hand-me-down rejects from overflowing closets, this clothing’s life will not last long. Ultimately, this purchase

becomes a poor and wasteful investment. Consumers have no other option, as sustainable fashion is expensive, and many cannot afford the alternative. Our society depends on consumerism and capitalism, but we don’t need to be indulging in shopping sprees every time there’s a new event to dress for. It’s not only acceptable, but environmentally friendly to outfit repeat. It’s fine to subscribe to trends, so long as you cherish the items you buy. I have admired watching girls my age grace the streets in bell-bottom jeans and tube tops. Even so, it makes me wonder - could I have found this style in the depths of my mother’s closet? While the wrath of fast fashion seems inescapable, there are favorable alternatives! Scour your mom’s closet, research the brands you buy from, build a capsule wardrobe, or simply borrow something from a friend. The next time you find yourself on a shopping spree, ask yourself, is fast fashion truly worth its detrimental impact?

NO VACANCY Photography by Amal Supariwala, Jack Casey, Maddy Lyons, Sophie McLeod Styled from the closets of the Rouge Magazine Staff and Athens Boutiques 39

Models: Jamie Chong and Sefunmi Olagbegi 40

Sefunmi’s jumpsuit from Cheeky Peach

Jamie’s set from Pitaya 41

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FASH ION as REVO LUTI ON

By Nancy Lopez

At the 2020 State of the Union Address, female members of the United States Congress wore white power suits as a form of silent protest against economic gender inequality. No words, no disruptive actions: just women in brilliantly purposeful outfits that conveyed a strong message of fixing a system still full of gender biases. Where did this idea stem from? Similarly brilliant, purposeful, and strong women a century ago also wore the color white as a sign of purity during the Women’s Suffrage Movement as a form of advocacy and protest. It goes without saying that there seems to be a never ending fight towards social reform. Whether it be gender bias, racial inequality, or any other form of social injustice, we are fighting the same type of battles that people decades — even centuries — ago were trying to resolve through protests. They utilized a surprisingly common weapon: fashion. One of the most widespread movements in history is the 1960s Civil Rights Movement. We all know about the famous words from Martin Luther King Jr., the courageous acts of Rosa Parks, and the inspiring March on Washington. However, we are often unfamiliar with the messages conveyed in these protestors’ form of dress. African Americans were often seen in neatly tailored garments that represented their ‘Sunday best.’ The women wore cardigans, modest hemlines,

and femine accessories such as pearl jewelry. The men sported formal suits and ties. As a whole, African Americans made an effort to present themselves in a manner that would subvert the racist stereotypes about them, embodying the goal that the Civil Rights Movement sought to achieve. If we were to travel further back in time, protesting a belief through fashion used an opposite approach from what was used during the Civil Rights Movement. For example, the 12th century was a time where Christianity ruled the government and deviants of society — such as jesters and jugglers — communicated their opposition towards the belief system by adopting stripes into their fashion.

“We are fighting the same type of battles that people decades — even centuries — ago were trying to resolve through protests.They utilized a surprisingly common weapon: fashion.” 43

Protest in the form of fashion represents a longtime history of defiance and modern social issues in a creative and meaningful form. This bold pattern was significant as the striped clothing did not fit neatly into any singular social class, the backbone of fashion during the Middle Ages. Similarly, in the late 1790s, men and women used bold, even scandalous, clothing as a political statement to defy the government after the French Reign of Terror. Women wore thin, slightly transparent, and form fitting dresses that exposed their bodies, often accompanied by a red scarf around the neck that represented ghastly public hangings and decapitations. Men opted for loose clothing paired with hair shaved at the nape, giving the illusion of the falling blade of the guillotine (McConnell, 2020). Flash forward to recent years, we have continued to see fashion bring attention to important causes. The use of casual slogan tees have become an increasingly popular form of wear for protests. Whether it be a twenty dollar “Black Lives Matter” shirt highlighting racism and police brutality or the eight hundred and sixty dollar “We Should All Be Feminist” tee that debuted at the 2017 Spring/ Summer Dior collection that 44

brought attention to women’s rights, these slogan tees never fail to get messages across. Statement pieces are also increasingly popular for visually communicating the unity of individuals for or against an idea. A great example that brought in mass media attention were the pink ‘Pussyhats’ of 2017. These hats were worn at the #METOO Women’s March in an effort to proudly reclaim the word “pussy,” as it had previously been used in a derogatory manner by former President Trump (Newman, 2020). However, more subtle forms of protest, like the all black clothing worn by individuals at the 2018 Golden Globe Awards to stand against sexual assault, have also become increasingly common. Whatever wardrobe tactic protestors decide to use does not matter; what matters is the message conveyed through choice of dress. Protest in the form of fashion represents a longtime history of defiance and modern social issues in a creative and meaningful form. They say a picture is worth a thousand words. If that is true, I say what you wear is worth a thousand and one.

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Sefunmi’s dress from Cheeky Peach 52

FREEDOM in femininity

HOW THE BABYDOLL DRESS REPRESENTS LIBERATION By Alicia Saltsman Fashion is inherently connected to movement, whether that movement is social, physical, seasonal, day to night, backward, or forward. Not only do clothes allow physical movement; they can also move eyes, minds, and bodies. In the 1960s and ‘70s, fashion was concerned with physical movement as it mirrored the social changes of the times. The babydoll dress was born and gave life to a generation of freemoving, exploring, wandering bodies and souls. Today, we are

seeing a resurgence of the babydoll dress and it is still more than just a comfortable, free-flowing garment. While the silhouette of the babydoll finds its roots in 1920s undergarments, it is a prominent symbol of the social, political, and sexual freedom women explored in the ‘60s and ‘70s. The mid to upper thigh hem and loose-fitting shape is not simply a trend finding itself back in mainstream fashion; it is a symbol of mobility, liberation, and an evolution of femininity.

“I’ve dreamt of a liberated woman who will no longer be swathed in fabric, armorplated. All my lines are styles for quick and fluid movement. My dresses are real dresses, ultra-light, free of padding and corseting, garments that will float on a body delivered from bondage,” said Hubert de Givenchy regarding his debut collection in 1952 (Lin, 2020). The designer spoke these words six years prior to his first iteration of the babydoll: an A line-esque, three tiered dress. His design was heavily influenced by Cristobal Balenciaga’s babydoll that seemed to appeal to the traditional ornateness of the ‘50s while somehow understanding the looming change and freedoms of the ‘60s. The acceptance of the babydoll gave the impression that women of the time were interested in exploring what it meant to dress femininely and eager to don new silhouettes.

By the early ‘60s, Mary Quant saw the “youthquake” happening in the streets of London, a phenomenon where young people were leaders within culture, politics, and fashion (Reddy, 2019). Across the pond, women returned to the hourglass shape while hints of the modern A-line were beginning to appear in American suburbs. However, amidst the growing Civil Rights Movement, protests against the Vietnam war, and the formation of the National Organization for Women (NOW), the youthquake’s influence reached the States as young people were influenced by music, the arts, and politics. Dress was becoming more casual and

functional, and increasing political pressures of the era moved women into the mod look, allowing for both physical and figurative movement. In 2022, the reappearance of the babydoll dress is yet another cultural and social symbol of the times. For the better part of the last two years, our minds and souls have traveled far greater lengths than our bodies. In the ‘60s, women were eager to move and travel to new spaces socially and politically; today, women are craving a new kind of journey toward self-expression. Once again, the rising hemline and loose cut dress is not just a trend but a chance to move.

MIU MIU

By Ny’Asia Keys

MODERNIZES

MEMORIES FROM THE ‘70S Floral, bright, and bold, Miu Miu has effortlessly captured the whimsical and carefree essence of Italian and American 1970s fashion since its launch in 1993. The brand is set apart by its ultra feminine, colorful, and playful aesthetics, sprinkled with a hint of nostalgia for late ‘60s and ‘70s fashion trends. Mimicking the experience of entering young adulthood in the ‘70s, lines by Miu Miu and Prada founder Miuccia Prada have portrayed a clear influence of the decade’s fashion, and her designs provide a fresh and sophisticated take on the past in every launch. With its youthful nature and classic

aesthetic, Miu Miu is a brand that appeals to fashion lovers of all ages and backgrounds, highlighting the relevance of vintage and retro fashion. In its 2020 Spring/Summer collection, the brand channeled the ‘70s through a modernized take on staples of American hippie fashion. Miuccia Prada put her own spin on pieces such as denim jackets, floral patches, and flowy pants by opting to make things asymmetrical and unconventional. The collection mixed retro colors and pieces with modern flair and design to emphasize Miu Miu’s trademark whimsical, yet refined aesthetic.

Jamie’s set from Cheeky Peach

A year later Miu Miu held a showstopping runway release with the 2021 Spring/Summer “Imaginary Sports Palace” collection. Branching out with a fun, feminine, and sporty collection, Miu Miu showcased a variety of pieces full of bold and bright colors. Inspiration clearly stemmed from the Italian ‘70s color palette, with bright oranges and yellows complimented by baby blues and vivid greens. One of the most notable pieces from the collection was a preppy, tennisinspired thigh-high skirt, showcased in a variety of vivid and bright colors. The skirt successfully mixed a sense of sportiness and couture while incorporating the playful and youthful element of the ‘70s. The collection was a brilliantly crafted, intricate blend of ‘70s flair and early 2000s spunk. This year, with the 2022 Spring/ Summer “Basic Instincts” collection, we see a more contemporary take on classic ‘70s themes with an emphasis on floral design. Miu Miu incorporated more instances of muted tones and colors, especially oranges, browns, and greens. The

essence of the ‘70s is captured in pieces such as the gorgeous silk serene green dress with floral accent pieces delicately scattered throughout. As implied by the collection name, Miuccia Prada has said that she wants to take “everyday, ordinary pieces” and make them stand out by cutting and reshaping them, renewing the lowrise skirt trend of the ‘70s in the process. In the future, we may expect to see a continuation of Miuccia Prada’s updated spin on vintage looks. Miu Miu holds a long-standing legacy in the modern fashion industry for reinventing and revolutionizing staples of past eras. Every year, audiences worldwide anticipate experiencing the evocatively timeless collections released. We can expect to see striking colors, retro statement pieces, and youthful designs, as they are a signature part of every line. Miu Miu’s emphasis on ‘70s fashion is refreshing and unique. Draw inspiration from Miu Miu this summer and make your wardrobe colorful, bold, and most importantly, vintage.

“Mimicking the experience of entering young adulthood in the ‘70s, lines by Miu Miu and Prada founder Miuccia Prada have portrayed a clear influence of the decade’s fashion, and her designs provide a fresh and sophisticated take on the past in every launch.”

I D N A N I A R S T A

The trend forecast is in... The skin-like, form-fitting silhouette has resurfaced as a ready-to-wear essential thanks to a modern makeover. The catsuit first made its debut during French designer André Courreges’ futuristic Space Age collection in the mid-1960s. During this time, a woman’s role in society was drastically changing for the better. More and more women entered the workforce as the rise of feminist movements encouraged them to go against the norms and express individuality in their own wardrobes. Emilio Pucci took the one piece garment and made it ready-to-wear by using stretchy athletic material in a range of vibrant and geometric prints. Designers like Oscar de la Renta, Christian Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent each had their own take on the jumpsuit and made sure to incorporate the versatile garment into their collections. Before long, fashion icons such as Cher were driving forces in the rise of the trending catsuit silhouette. By the late ‘60s and ‘70s, catsuits grew in popularity and could be seen in “sportswear styles for day, and leather one-pieces or embellished designs for evening” (Vogue France, 2020). The garment served as a symbol of femininity and strength and continues to be a versatile fashion statement that empowers women of both past and present. 62

erc i P iya n a By T

S ’ T I G N I N S T I U S The initial return of the catsuit occurred during the edgy and chic ‘90s. Late fashion pioneer Thierry Mugler introduced catsuits on the catwalk in larger than life designs that were sculpted to follow the natural curve of the body in ways that the fashion industry had never seen before. Catsuits are a recurring theme for Mugler’s collections that feature constructed tailoring and mesh illusion designs. Balenciaga kicked off the catsuit trend at the September 2021 Met Gala with Kim Kardashian as the new face of their brand in a black headto-toe catsuit covering every inch of her body, including her face. She continued her collaboration with the French label at her Saturday Night Live premiere in a crushed pink velvet catsuit, a long pink anorak coat, and another form-fitting spandex catsuit with a textured coat (Pallavi, 2021). Prada, Marine Serre, Tom Ford, and LaQuan Smith all showcased catsuits in their Fall/Winter 2021 designs, indicating that the piece will be this season’s boldest trend in several ready-to-wear versions. From monochromatic to playful patternsthe catsuit is here to stay and is now a staple silhouette of the year.

The all-in-one staple is making a comeback with a contemporary twist on its 1960s and ‘70s origins.

Photography by Arantxa Villa, Jessica Rao, Savannah Hernandez 64

Photography by Arantxa Villa, Jessica Rao, Savannah Hernandez

tars come out

When the

Styled from the closets of the Rouge Magazine Staff and Athens Boutiques 65

Model: Patrick Rice 66

MOVIE

MAGIC How Cult Classics Influenced ‘70s Fashion

By Helen Sorme 68

The 1970s were graced with a multitude of fashion-forward movies whose styles trickled down into everyday wear. Incorporating flashy discotheque patterns and textures, challenging the binary of gender-specific fashion, and shifting towards mobilityfriendly pieces became possible largely through Hollywood’s influence. Box office hits like Grease (1978) and Saturday Night Fever (1977) shaped mainstream styles through the evidently timeless implication of their period-capturing dazzle. Grease’s setting in the late ‘50s did not inhibit its dominating influence on public fashion upon release. Shortly after it hit theaters, a classic outfit formula was born: the foolproof emulation of the T-birds. A sleek leather jacket partnered with a white tee and blue jeans soon dominated the public eye and continued for years to come. Paying homage to a James Dean ‘50s-esque character proved truly timeless, as the simplicity and malleability of the look created an eye-catching nonchalance that spanned decades (Freestone, 2021). Similarly, Sandy’s iconic looks commanded the masses while rejuvenating hyper-feminine styles from the ‘50s with a refreshing twist. Her electrifying outfit at the close of the film captures a perfect flip from the “good girl” persona she upheld throughout the majority of the movie. According to Vogue France, the skin-tight leather pants Olivia Newton-John wore as “Bad Sandy” were a truly authentic piece from the ‘50s, scouted by the film’s designer (Reynaud, 2020). Reviving this statement piece resulted in the explosion of leather womenswear, including oversized jackets and chunky belts. 69

Saturday Night Fever idolized ‘70s disco fashion in an exhilarating manner. John Travolta sported flashy patterned tops with sharp collars and continued the legacy of a staple leather jacket, which markedly solidified Grease’s influence on the American fashion scene. The film’s most iconic all-white suit became one of the best-known looks of its time (Burr, 2017). Worn by a captivating disco king Travolta, the suit’s monochromatic elegance defied the typical extravagant styles of discogoers maturely in a sleek adaptation. The film focuses on the increased popularity of mobility in clothing, as disco dancing required great flexibility and zeal. Womenswear followed that shift, moving towards flowy midi dresses with slits and haltered pantsuits to appease the required flexibility demanded by the dance floor. Opposing the uber-feminine styles popularized by Grease, Saturday Night Fever perfectly illustrated womenswear’s transformation to a more modern and mobile essence. Karen Lynn Gorney’s baby pink pantsuit not only established her character’s independence and status in the hustle of New York City, but paved the way for a feminine spin on a male-dominated outfit formula (Badham, 1977, 0:42:38). Pantsuits began to be dressed down to a casual degree, although still worn in the workplace or on lavish outings. Maximizing comfort in womenswear heightened during the ‘70s, building off of the ability to dress up a midi dress or dress down a suit to fit the spectrum of everyday wear. 70

Film’s influence on fashion had a broad reach, spanning from luxurious outing pieces to daily wear. Capturing the essence of the ‘50s and ‘70s respectively, Grease and Saturday Night Fever fundamentally shaped American fashion, introducing it to the significance of timeless, classic articles that soon dominated the decade’s attire.

Model: Ashley Burgess

Ashley’s dress from Red Dress Boutique 73

Model: Analiese Herrin

THE CONTEMPORARY

REINVENTION OF GENDERED CLOTHING By Analiese Herrin The concept of gender-malleable trends has been subject to both critique and praise throughout the history of fashion; however, the most prominent theme of gender neutral clothing is the inspiration of reinvention. From David Bowie to Elton John to Jimi Hendrix, true androgyny in male fashion swept the world off its feet in the 1960s and ‘70s. One thing that most early rock fashion had in common was its origin story. It was the men of rock who truly embraced and inspired the androgynous male fashion movement through personal reinvention. The greatest deterrent of selfexpression within fashion trends is politics. Historically, the oppressive norms surrounding gender expression have shamed men into

an extremely masculine category. Why is it that men were looked down upon for embracing androgynous clothing? As the traditional ideals ebb and flow through time, so does the clothing which defines the era. The “manly man” concept seems to take effect specifically during political conflicts and embraces the idea that feminine characteristics in males define their sexuality. However, with the rise of various Civil Rights movements in the ‘50s and ‘60s, the restrictions of male fashion slowly began to dissipate with the rise of rock legends. As the fashion trend of rejecting social norms increases again, the more we see modern male fashion include pearls, vivid colors and patterns, earrings, makeup, and skirts.

The most influential and androgynous man of rock was David Bowie. With his skin-tight jumpsuits, bright colors, and glamorous eye makeup, Bowie used his platform to break down the stereotypical notions of sexuality within a categorized society. Sir Elton John made jaws drop with his bedazzled costumes consistently paired with platform heels, boas, and huge, colorful sunglasses. What made Elton so inspirational was not just his extravagant wardrobe choices, but the story behind them. Born Reginald Kenneth Dwight, Elton decided to leave the toxic masculinity of his childhood in the past and reinvent himself as Elton John, embracing a complete understanding of his sexuality and gender. Finally, Jimi Hendrix popularized velvet, flowy, colorful male fashion as well. During the 1970 Isle of Wight Festival, Hendrix showed off his feminine, butterfly inspired costume made of velvet and sequins. Uncoincidentaly, butterflies themselves embody reinvention. Hendrix’s goal was to represent the ideals of the Civil Rights movement: submitting to your most authentic self, void of societal oppression.

The idea of running from your past life in order to embrace true self is something that the male artists of rock solidified. These men showed the world that embracing both femininity and masculinity helps shatter pressures surrounding gender. Could looking back at the inspiring reinvention of these legends reignite sexually self-accepting ideals in the toxic masculine environment of today? This is a sentiment we can only hope for as the dissipation of categorized gender in fashion grows.

“As the fashion trend of rejecting social norms continues, the more we see modern male fashion include pearls, vivid colors and patterns, earrings, makeup, and skirts.”

The Comeback of

STUDIO 54 FASHION

By Hannah Rieder

The opening of Studio 54 in 1977 sparked the rise of the “party girl” look, promoting a lavish lifestyle and the freedom of fashion. It was a place where people could separate themselves from the real world and celebrate in glitz and glamour. Ian Schraeger, one of the club’s founders, declared that when you entered Studio 54, “You felt like you were standing on stardust” (Weber, 2009). Magical scenes from fake wind to manufactured snow to iridescent fog were all simulated within the walls of the club and created a dreamlike landscape for

dancing and debauchery (Cooper, 2019). Regulars at the club included the likes of Grace Jones, Brooke Shields, and Calvin Klein. The starstudded clientele often debuted outré ensembles, which led to the creation of mythic stories. Studio 54 is, of course, where Bianca Jagger famously arrived on a white horse wearing a red Halston dress. The nightclub era allowed people to shed themselves of their worries of the day and become someone else for the night. Though the club was only open for three years, its impact on fashion has resonated through the decades.

STANDING ON STARDUST

Disco in the ‘70s allowed for the rise of social liberation. It inspired people to turn bad times into good times, and there was a glitter-everywhere mentality. Disco represented cosmopolitanism, diversity, and it was extremely relevant to the LGBTQ+ community. Today, as we navigate numerous social movements and adjust to post-pandemic life, people

are striving to be a fun-loving yet mysterious version of themselves. Artists today are still using disco fever as inspiration. Country-turned-pop artist Kacey Musgraves embodied the Cher look in her Christmas show The Kacey Musgraves Christmas Special, a nostalgic, ‘70s display of holiday camp. Similarly, Dua Lipa’s latest album Future Nostalgia was featured in her livestream concert,

“A dreamlike landcape for dancing and debauchery” are looking for ways to express themselves and rejoin as a collective community. The liberating and energetic vibe of disco and pop is seen in fashion today with bold velvet, slinky chain dresses, and the famous Versace platform. Makeup is art, with glittery shadows and graphic eyeliners that are fit to grace an episode of Euphoria, and people

Studio 2054, a performance that was centered around retro dance music and over-the-top looks that encapsulated the spirit of Studio 54 (Kornhaber, 2020). While looking toward the future, people want the revival of glamour and lavishness. More is less, and excess is not enough.

Model: Shaolynn Betts

These

FAUX FUR COATS Were Made for Wearin’

By Alma Hernandez To discuss 1960s fashion, one cannot forget to mention the ultimate staple: fur coats. They are the essential that exemplifies a free spirit, status, and power through a simple piece of clothing. Although there are a myriad of coat styles, the fur coat continues to make a statement. It’s the best way to glamourize your outfit and keep you warm. Fur coats tend to run big because there are tons of history and pop culture references behind them. Let’s get a glimpse of the cultural impact of the fur coat. According to Harper’s Bazaar (2022), fur coats have been extensively displayed in films to reveal character changes. In the film, Almost Famous, Kate Hudson’s character is seen wearing her iconic tan fur coat with white trim throughout the entire film to

represent her “Band-Aid” persona and the film’s ‘60s timeframe. Another example is in Clueless. During the party scene that takes place in the Valley, Cher is seen wearing a red fur coat with black trimming to represent her party look but also gives a nod to her character theme of needing to look like a “total Betty.” One thing for sure is that if you’re looking for a boost of sparkle to add to your outfit, a fur coat is the way to go. Fur coats first debuted during the hunter-gatherer era, specifically in the Slavic region. The creation of the fur coat started out like any other regular coat; they were designed to protect people from the cold weather. Bey AZURA (2020) notes that fur was more valuable than money during that time period. People had access to wild animal fur 83

and many believed fur granted them power in a spiritual sense and a connection to the animal. According to Ohio State University, “If they were to wear the fur of a cheetah, perhaps they would gain the speed and intelligence of the cheetah. It would guide them on their journey through life,” (2018, para. 4). It wasn’t until the 1920s when fur coats exploded into the fashion scene. Fur coats were initially worn to symbolize status. People would stroll around in their authentic fur coats to display their wealth. Wearing a thick animal covered coat was the ultimate status symbol for both women and men. As time went on, improved technology led to using alternative textiles for fur coats in order to speed up production. This evolved into using more corduroy velvet fabric during the faux fur movement in the ‘60s. Fur coats had begun to cause a stir between fashion and animal rights. In the

‘70s, many celebrities spoke out in support of the faux fur movement such as Doris Day and Mary Tyler Moore. This movement eventually led to the transition from fur to faux. The fashion atmosphere soon took notice and after the British Fashion Council decision to completely ban animal fur from all London Fashion Week in 2018, the rest of Europe and the U.S. has decided to follow suit (ELLE Magazine, 2022). It is no surprise that faux fur coats are ready for a comeback this season. To find a ‘60s-esque fur coat nowadays, thrift stores and designer resale concepts are two excellent and sustainable options. Fur coats will come and go in fashion, but they will never fail to turn heads when you walk into a room. To conclude in a similar manner to Nancy Sinatra’s famous song, “These Boots Are Made for Walkin”, are you ready, everyone? Start wearin’ your fur coats.

Shaolynn’s dress from Pitaya

Photography by Jack Casey and Maddy Lyons

Styled from the closets of the Rouge Magazine Staff and Athens Athens boutiques boutiques staff and 89

Models: Haley Stuart and Whit Pope

Whit’s shorts from Kempt 91

Whit’s shirt and shorts from Kempt

Haley’s top from Red Dress Boutique

BOOTS

TOUGH AS

By Alexis Derickson

The Cowboy’s Return to Fashion

Originally designed as a practical shoe for ranch workers, the cowboy boot rises from gritty origins in the 18th century as a centerpiece of durability and confidence for the American man (de Berker, 2018). Yet, it was only a matter of time before designers and runways throughout the 1960s and ‘70s would claim the boot as their own, reimagining the possibilities of the classic brown embroidery. Tough as boots, the cowboy-style shoe has returned once again to the forefront of Westerninspired fashion, refusing to let its practical use leave the marketplace of American tradition.

Model: Colleen McCann 95

Lucchese, a historically renowned brand from San Antonio, Texas, pioneered the integration of the cowboy boot into American fashion. After immigrating from Sicily to Texas, Sam Lucchese and his brothers recognized a gap in the market for durable, budgetfriendly boots and began creating what would soon become the industry standard for boot making (de Berker, 2018). Ralph Lauren, known for its timeless and quality pieces, introduced cowboy boots to the runway throughout the ‘70s, pairing the statement shoe with denim shirts, tweed, blue jeans, suede, and tuxedo jackets (Penny, 2021). Before long, celebrities began incorporating the cowboy boot into their varieties of looks, thus transitioning the shoe into mainstream style. Marilyn Monroe is known for being a figurehead at the start of this transition when she wore boots with a two-piece cowgirl suit for a Valentine’s Day photoshoot during the rise of her notoriety (de Berker, 2018). Following Monroe’s lead, fashion industry consumers

around the country made the boot the centerpiece of club culture, expanding the designs and colors to unforeseen depths, including glittery and metallic versions of the traditional shoe. Studio 54, a Manhattan disco nightclub followed closely and attended highly, served as a blueprint for trendsetting, so it came as no surprise when the cowboy boot rose even more in popularity once clubgoers decided the boot was the ideal shoe for partying all night (de Berker, 2018). In reflecting on the cowboy boot’s powerful return to fashion, much reasoning can be attributed to the enduring symbolism of the shoe post-COVID-19. According to Texas designer Peter Middleton, the boot is reminiscent of American freedom and open land (Penny, 2021). Throughout the highs and lows of the past few years, consumers are seeking to feel the freedom of the outdoors, of fresh air, of the ability to do what they want, and of the endless possibilities of life. The cowboy boot has returned as a vessel of emotion and expression for its wearers.

“Throughout the highs and lows of the past few years, consumers are seeking to feel the freedom of the outdoors, of fresh air, of the ability to do what they want, and of the endless possibilities of life. The cowboy boot has returned as a vessel of emotion and expression for its wearers.”

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MODERN Without fail, the 1960s calls to mind images of the hippie – a paisley-wearing, wandering soul that promotes love, not war. However, there was more to their stance than peace signs and flower power. During this era, the United States saw major music and fashion revolutions, the advancement of technology, and the rise of Civil Rights movements. The nation was in a state of unrest, and this sparked a surge of political activism from the younger generation, namely college students, to form the counterculture that is the hippies. Their outlook was very anti-establishment, valuing

spiritual experience with one another over materialism, and these philosophies on life were reflected directly in their clothing with a very anti-fashion look (BorrelliPersson, 2021). In an altered form of Mod fashion, trousers or jeans were often worn with plain shirts, and vintage clothing was repurposed for ecological values. As the decade slowly moved into the ‘70s, people began to embrace their rebelliousness, and the popular styles progressed into the iconic staples associated with this era such as flared jeans, fringe, and patches.

RUNNING W OT ARD INDIVIDUALITY

HIPPIES By Hannah Rieder 107

Clothing is innately intertwined with self expression and identity and the definition of youth fashion is ever-changing. Today, rather than donning Stevie Nicks-esque floorlength shawls and knee-high boots, young consumers are focused on promoting radical social change through the very way they exist (Harper’s Bazaar Staff, 2017). Amidst social change and the pandemic, people are embodying a more free-spirited lifestyle, emphasizing artistic expression and harmony among groups. More and more, people have growing feelings of self-determination and independence. Similar to the hippie era, there has been a recent push against power structures, allowing people to connect through activism and leaving more room for expression through fashion. With the growing integration of social media platforms Tik Tok and Instagram into our lives, younger generations are simultaneously experimenting with individualism while remaining on-trend and socially relevant. Many have cultivated their own styles and learned how to participate in trends while adding their own flair, and it is not uncommon to mix trends between different subcultures. Instead of recognizing specific style through the adoption of a mainstream look, people are continually gravitating towards style as an expression of individuality.

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SPECIAL THANKS TO

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ATHENS-BEN EPPS AIRPORT CHARLIE MIZZELL CHEEKY PEACH CINÉ ATHENS KEMPT LUKE COWN PITAYA PMP AUTOMOTIVE RED DRESS BOUTIQUE THE CLASSIC CENTER

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LOST AMONG THE STARS: THE LEGACY OF SHARON TATE

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UNIQUELY UNITED: THE LEGACY OF THE AMERICAN FASHION DESIGNER

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HAS FAST FASHION GONE TOO FAR?

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THE TREND FORECAST IS IN AND IT’S RAINING CATSUITS

Bass-Krueger, M. (2019, August 26). Vogue’s fashion encyclopedia: The Jumpsuit. Vogue France. Retrieved April 19, 2022, from https://www.vogue.fr/ fashion/article/vogues-fashion-encyclopedia-the-jumpsuit Pallavi, Krishna Priya ( 2021, October 11)Kim Kardashian slays SNL debut in hot pink catsuits and street-ready chic long coat by balenciaga. Hindustan Times. Retrieved April 19, 2022, from https://www.hindustantimes.com/lifestyle/fashion/kim-kardashian-slays-snl-debut-in-hotpink-catsuits-and-street-ready-chic-long-coat-by-balenciaga-101633928260462.html

SOUR 1,001 WORDS: FASHION AS REVOLUTION

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MIU MIU MODERNIZES MEMORIES FROM THE ‘70S

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FREEDOM IN FEMININITY: HOW THE BABYDOLL DRESS REPRESENTS LIBERATION

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MOVIE MAGIC: HOW CULT CLASSICS INFLUENCED ‘70S FASHION

1970-1979. Fashion History Timeline. (2019, October 3). Retrieved February 23, 2022, from https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1970-1979/ Badham, J. (Director). (1977). Saturday Night Fever [Film]. Paramount Pictures.

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THE CONTEMPORARY REINVENTION OF GENDERED CLOTHING

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STANDING ON STARDUST: THE COMEBACK OF STUDIO 54 FASHION

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RCES Weber, B. (2009, July 11). Robert Isabell, who turned events into wondrous occasions, dies at 57. The New York Times. Retrieved February 23, 2022, from https://www.nytimes.com/2009/07/11/nyregion/11isabell.html

THESE FAUX FUR COATS WERE MADE FOR WEARIN’

AZURA, B. (2020, March 3). History of fur. Beyazura. https://beyazura.com/blogs/news/history-of-fur Bird, N. (2022, February 3). 19 of the best faux fur coats and jackets to buy now. ELLE. https://www.elle.com/uk/fashion/what-to-wear/articles/ g31269/best-faux-fur-coats-jackets-to-buy-now-high-street-designer/ Samaha, B. (2021, February 18). The 20 most iconic coats in movie history. Harper’s Bazaar. https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/trends/ g34364277/famous-movie-coats/ Thibault.21 (2019, June 15). Fur vs. faux: The history of furs. Clothes Lines. https://u.osu.edu/clotheslines/2018/11/09/fur-vs-faux-the-history-of-furs/

TOUGH AS BOOTS: THE COWBOY’S RETURN TO FASHION

De Berker, Elsa. (2018, April 4). The History of Fashion’s Obsession with Cowboy Boots. CR Fashion Book. https://www.crfashionbook.com/ fashion/a19664612/history-of-fashions-cowboy-boots/ Penny, Daniel. (2021, June 23). Cowboy Boots in the City? Why Western Style Is Trending. The Wall Street Journal. https://www.wsj.com/articles/ cowboy-boots-in-the-city-why-western-style-is-trending-11624463862

MODERN HIPPIES: RUNNING TOWARD INDIVIDUALITY

Borrelli-Persson, L. (2021, December 20). Why I’m pro the anti-fashion look. Vogue. Retrieved February 23, 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/ article/why-i-am-pro-anti-fashion Harper’s Bazaar Staff. (2017, July 15). In photos: Stevie Nicks’ iconic style. Harper’s BAZAAR. Retrieved February 23, 2022, from https://www. harpersbazaar.com/fashion/trends/g1496/stevie-nicks-style-photos/ Hippies in the 60s : Fashion, festivals, Flower Power. Vintage Dancer. (n.d.). Retrieved February 23, 2022, from https://vintagedancer.com/1960s/ hippies-in-the-60s-fashion-festivals-flower-power/ Lobenthal, J. (n.d.). Hippie style. LoveToKnow. Retrieved February 23, 2022, from https://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/fashion-history-eras/ hippie-style

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