Round Magazine Nº2.1 - Miami~Keywest

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Destination. Culture.

{miami~keywest}

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It’s a long way to Key West and kind of inconvenient.

Driving is interesting but draining, and flying to small towns is never easy anymore. For some it’s the last sane place in America and for others the opposite.

Whatever

the reason, it’s hard to feel ordinary after driving a hundred miles into the open ocean. But, as the explorers found, if you want

spice,

and

fruit

and nuts you have to be willing to go the distance.

Photographer: Sue Swank

Model: Lindsay Danielle Viveiros

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Photographer: Sue Swank

Model: Lindsay Danielle Viveiros

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速

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KEY WEST day trip from MIAMI We set out from Miami Beach around 9 am. on what promised to be a sparkling South Florida day. South of Homestead the Dixie Highway was a mess of construction, but it prepared us for the two lane journey ahead. Never having driven on the Overseas Highway I was looking forward to a picturesque adventure.

Key Largo was a blur. I wanted to make good time so I drove straight past the imaginatively named Meat Eatery and KonTiki motel. Drove straight until I saw the twenty foot lobster (our cover photo), at which point I pretty much had to pull over. The Rainbarrel Artisan Village was a nice 45 minute diversion to reinforce the negative stereotypes of resort aesthetics.

Around the third hour westward I started to realize how sleepy I’d be on the drive back home. The aqua was seemingly endless as we crossed three, five, and seven mile causeways. We stopped to trek a bit on the old roadway, the ‘Heritage Trail’. One could easily get distracted and never make it to Key West.

We made it to Key West and commenced our self-guided walking tour of Duval Street, Mallory Square and the Sunset Pier. We looked at Hemmingway’s house and Truman’s house and the oldest house in the USA. Mostly we looked at the people; the creative spirit of freedom was on their faces, in their hair and their sculpture park front yards. It was immediately clear that if artists like us were to stay in this place overnight we might never leave.

The sunset is a big deal in Key West, because it’s always magnificent, so everyone heads for the Sunset Pier to take that same photograph. You won’t see it here because we went for Chinese food instead… perhaps not the smartest move just ahead of a five hour drive back to Miami. We filled up with gas and energy drinks and, with the sunset at our backs, the narrow curvey drive home went twice as fast.

Driving across the ocean, I would have been terrified in a thunderstorm with a tractor-trailer on my tail, but my lucky stars were out that night.

Until we hit the Dixie Highway.

SEE KEY W E S T FR E E DAY TRIP FROM MIAMI - $79 VALUE The Go Miami Card is an all-inclusive attraction pass that gives you free admission to all 35 Miami attractions for one low price. Call 888.491.0347 Hop On Hop Off 24 hour pass from Big Bus • Miami Seaquarium • Millionaire's Row Cruise on the • Island Queen • Duck Tours South Beach • Jungle Island • Key West Day Trip from Miami • Zoo Miami • Gator Park Airboat Tours • Vizcaya Museum and Gardens • Coral Castle • Lion Country Safari • Everglades Alligator Farm & Airboat Ride • Sea Experience Glass Bottom Boat and Snorkeling • World Erotic Art Museum • Miami Science Museum • Everglades Airboat Ride at Sawgrass • Recreation Park • Kennedy Space Center • Jungle Queen Riverboat • Key Largo Princess Glass Bottom Boat Cruise • Fort Lauderdale Duck Tours • Everglades Tour from Miami • Bike and Roll: Bike Rental • The Official Art Deco Walking Tour • Bar Hop Shuttle • Fun Spot Action Park • Island Queen Cruises - Bayside Blaster • Water Taxi Miami • Daytona International Speedway All Access Tour • Fort Lauderdale Water Taxi • Museum of Discovery and Science • Pelican Harbor Seabird Station • Ripley's Believe It or Not! • Miami Children's Museum • WonderWorks • Gatorland: The Alligator Capital of the World

It’s All Included!

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Remarkable story of Key West’s beloved Sandy Cornish (c1793-c1869) from the placard at Historic Mallory Square: Sandy Cornish (Uncle Sandie) was born a slave in Maryland about 1793. He migrated to Florida in 1839 where with his wife Lillah’s help he was able to buy his freedom. In the last 1840’s his free papers were lost in a fire.

Six unprincipled men captured him with the intent of selling him at the slave market in New Orleans. Uncle Sandie escaped and to prevent recapture he inflicted several injuries on himself. In the public square of Port Leon, he cut the muscles of his ankle joint, plunged a knife in the other hip joint and cut off the fingers of his left hand, tendering himself unfit for labor and thus worthless as a slave. In the late 1840’s he came to Key West where he and Lillah bought a farm on what is now Truman Avenue near Simonton Street. Uncle Sandie supplied fresh vegetables and fruits to the island inhabitants. During the Civil War many Union Soldiers visited Sandy’s fruit orchard. He was by all accounts a highly successful farmer, one of the richest men in Key west and a leader of the African American community. In 1864 he established the ongoing Cornish Chapel of the African Methodist Episcopal Church at 802 Whitehead Street. Uncle Sandie died in the late 1860’s a wealthy and respected and free citizen of Key West.

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Moonrise and sunset are daily attractions on any island, but they are special events on the offshore islands of Florida.

Beach lovers on Marco Island pause every night for the Green Flash, that elusive streak of color said to accompany the sun into the sea. Shell collectors on Sanibel Island enjoy their sunset cocktails in a wildlife refuge when the roseate spoonbills are in season. Here in the Florida Keys, Key Westers ‘go to sunset’ on Mallory Square Pier, with the jugglers, the tightrope walkers and the cookie lady.

The Florida Keys are a curve of about 1700 islands that start 15 miles south of Miami and extend like a bony tail into the emerald-green waters of the Caribbean. You don’t cross a national border when you drive the longest overseas highway in the world but you do enter a mystical kingdom, where island time prevails from Mile Marker 100 at Key Largo to Mile Marker 0 at Key West. The sea is seldom more than a short drive away on either side, the Atlantic Ocean a few hundred yards to the left, the Gulf of Mexico a few hundred yards to the right. The concrete ribbon of Highway 1 ties these sandbars and coral islands together as it wanders south across bridges, past manatees and mangrove trees Film buffs should see Humphrey Bogart in a memorable old black-and-white movie called Key Largo before driving into the gateway to the Keys at Key Largo amidst a burst of colorful billboards. The most important sign points to John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, which provides access to the only living coral reef in the continental United States, a reef seen by glass-bottom boat, dive boat or with snorkeling gear.

As you drive south past clusters of island civilization at Marathon and Islamorada to the capitol city of the Keys at Key West, allow time to be lured a few hundred yards off the Overseas Highway to coastal resorts, restaurants, bars, marinas and other facilities beside the sea. Rent dive boats anywhere along the whiplash of islands or in Key West.

There are one or two good sand beaches, notably at Bahia State Recreational Area, but everybody’s final destination is where Highway 1 ends at Key West.

Key Westers call themselves Conchs, spelled like the famous Conch shell but pronounced “konks”. Like most islanders, they are individualists who create their own eccentric lifestyles beside the sea. They have been living from the sea for centuries, since pirates first lured Spanish galleons to watery graves on the reefs. Piracy became legal in the early nineteenth century, when any sea captain who owned a house in Key West became a licensed salvager, a “wrecker” eligible to claim shipwrecked goods as his own. There were three shipwrecks a week in those days, many caused by a wrecker with a wandering lamp, so it was a profitable business for Conchs.

Key West Sojourn Key West was the largest city in Florida, totally independent of the mainland, when Henry Flagler built his famous east coast railroad down the Keys in 1912, allowing passengers to make a ninety-mile sea voyage to Havana, Cuba, for twenty-four dollars round trip. He built the Grand Hotel, now the glamorous Casa Marina resort, which prospered until a hurricane virtually destroyed the railroad in the Labor Day hurricane of 1935. The government built the Overseas Highway to replace it. A highlight of that highway trip today is crossing the Seven Mile Bridge, which connects Knights Key, in the Middle Keys south of Marathon, to Little Duck Key in the Lower Keys.

The Conchs built a New England style town with Bahamian architecture and an island life style that makes this unique town more like a Caribbean island than a part of the American mainland. Tour Key West on either the tour train or the trolley to visit the restored Conch houses of Old Town, a highlight of this two-by-four mile island.

If you take the Trolley, disembark to visit the 21st century descendent of Henry Flagler’s famous hotel, Casa Marina Resort, or other island attractions such as Ernest Hemingway House and Museum, or the Audubon House and Gardens. You can take the next trolley back into town.

At day’s end, when both you and the sun are at the end of your day, join the people who begin to drift down Duvall Street. They are going to sunset. A popular first stop may be the open air bar atop the Pier House, but everyone eventually gathers around the street theater which occurs every evening at Mallory Square Pier. Crowds of tourists and Key Westers are there, milling about, sitting on the edge of the pier anticipating sunset. They buy brownies and Key Lime Pie from the cookie lady. They cheer on the contortionist, the fire eater, the mime, the jugglers and the tightrope walker silhouetted every night against the deepening sunset. The greatest applause is saved for the sun itself.

As the sun touches the horizon, the riot of activity goes into slow motion. People stop talking, as parishioners do when they go through the church door. The sun melts like gold, spreading its colorful blessings on the sea. Applause begins. And rises. The golden orb drops below the horizon and is gone There are no curtain calls in this theater, so the sundowners begin to move. The noise level rises. And the question forms: where should we go for dinner?

by Iris Sanderson Jones

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BEST CINEMA IN FLORIDA No more average fare at the multiplex for moviegoers in Key West! In 1988 a group of cinema aficionados and local volunteers joined forces to establish the Tropic Cinema and bring alternative, independent and foreign movies to Key West. The theater now hosts the Key West International Festival of New Cinema.

Photographer: Sue Swank

Model: Kendra Spring Adams

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Miami Beach is not Miami. In fact it’s barely in the USA. Walking down Ocean Drive is like walking in Nice, only safer, and almost everyone speaks English here… as their second language. I eavesdrop on conversations while buying Italian Roast for my French Press from a Cuban barista who spoke German. On my way to a tapas dinner I saw a tourist give five Euros to a baffled homeless man. Like almost every beach community there are leathery transients interwoven with the over-tanned party-goers, spring breakers, regular tourists and locals. They don’t cause a lot of trouble, just enough. Stop for breakfast at the News Cafe and ponder the last moments of Versace. Take off your top and get baked on America’s greatest beach. Walk the historic Art Deco district in your flip shades and panama hat, winding up on Lincoln Road at dusk.

Spend a quarter to ride the South Beach Shuttle down to Joe’s for stone crab before the season ends in May. Hit a few clubs or a dark dive bar or two, then retire to your cinematic hotel with a slice of Brooklyn pizza and a New York Times. Or not. The bold colors and swagger belie the fragility of the place; a wisp of sand in a rising tide. Luxury all around but everyone makes their money someplace else. The neon-lit cast of characters work on their lines, exaggerate their poses and try to figure out their next move. As I posed my model in South Pointe park one Saturday I saw, through the viewfinder, two men dressed as bride and groom stride into the frame and stop. Looking up from my camera I politely asked them to move on just a few more feet. “No, this is a photo shoot” snapped back their hipster photographer. “So is this” I replied.

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Destination.

Culture.

Nº5

New York

The High Line Noboo

Julian Bern

I.O. Tillet Wright Garrick Jones

Morgan Library Music Reviews

• Hop On Hop Off 24 hour pass from Big Bus • Miami Seaquarium • Millionaire's Row Cruise on the Island Queen • Duck Tours South Beach • Jungle Island • Key West Day Trip from Miami • Zoo Miami • Gator Park Airboat Tours • Vizcaya Museum and Gardens • Coral Castle • Lion Country Safari • Everglades Alligator Farm & Airboat Ride • Sea Experience Glass Bottom Boat & Snorkeling • World Erotic Art Museum • Miami Science Museum • Everglades Airboat Ride at Sawgrass • Recreation Park • Kennedy Space Center • Jungle Queen Riverboat • Key Largo Princess Glass Bottom Boat Cruise • Fort Lauderdale Duck Tours • Everglades Tour from Miami • Bike and Roll: Bike Rental • The Official Art Deco Walking Tour • Bar Hop Shuttle • Fun Spot Action Park • Island Queen Cruises - Bayside Blaster • Water Taxi Miami • Daytona International Speedway All Access Tour • Fort Lauderdale Water Taxi • Museum of Discovery and Science • Pelican Harbor Seabird Station • Ripley's Believe It or Not! • Miami Children's Museum • WonderWorks • Gatorland: The Alligator Capital of the World

The Go Miami Card is an all-inclusive attraction pass that gives you free admission to all 35 Miami attractions for one low price.

It’s all included! Call 888.491.0347

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`Round Magazine is created by Eric Jones and Pui-Pui Li. All photos by Eric and Pui-Pui except as noted. © `Round Magazine Box 140402 New York, NY 10314

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