ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT Gluten is a protein found in wheat products. The amount of protein in flour determines the structure and texture of a baked good, like a cake or cookie. ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT When you see the word “flour” in a recipe, it usually refers to allpurpose flour. All-purpose flour is a blend of hard wheat (highprotein) and soft wheat (lowerprotein) grains. It has a medium protein content of about 10 to 12%. All-purpose flour can be used in a variety of baking. ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT Self-rising flour is just allpurpose flour with baking powder and salt already added. You can easily make your own for any recipe that calls for self-rising flour by adding 11/2 teaspoons of baking powder and 1/4 teaspoon salt to 1 cup all-purpose flour. ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT Softer, lighter cakes — like angel food cakes, for example — benefit from a soft wheat cake flour that is low in protein and gluten, like Swans Down Cake Flour. Pastry flour falls between all-purpose flour and cake flour, with an 8 to 9% protein content. It is perfect for pie crusts. You can also make your own: Combine 1¹/₃ cups all-purpose flour with ²/₃ cup cake flour.
ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT Bread flour is a higher-protein flour. It’s called “bread flour” because most bread requires higher amounts of protein to produce lots of gluten — it helps make bread airy and chewy and gives it its unique texture. ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT Whole wheat flour is a bulkier flour made from the entire wheat kernel. If you substitute whole wheat flour for all-purpose flour, use ²/₃ cup whole wheat flour for every 1 cup of allpurpose, and expect a somewhat denser cake. ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT Almond flour is a low-carb, gluten-free substitute for allpurpose flour, but it can’t replace all-purpose flour cup-for-cup when baking. Use 3/4 cup almond flour for every 1 cup of all-purpose for non-yeast baked goods; and up to 1¹/₃ cup almond flour for every 1 cup of all-purpose for yeasted recipes, like pizza, bread, and rolls.
By David W. Brown
O
ur Gentilly Cake was invented by our former bakery director, Chaya Conrad, who today is the owner of Bywater Bakery at the corner of Dauphine and Independence Streets in New Orleans, with her husband, Alton Osborne. The bakery couldn’t be busier. “We do a little bit of everything: We bake bread, we do breakfast pastries, we do a light lunch and breakfast, and we have a big — very big — cake business.” And yes, that includes king cakes. There are vegan and gluten-free menus, Bagel Fridays, Breakfast Gumbo(!), and many sweets and savories. They even have yaka mein for when you’ve had too much to drink the night before—but go easy on Tuesday evenings: The bakery is closed on Wednesdays.
baking spirits bright
FLOUR POWER
A RECIPE FOR SUCCESS
Since Bywater Bakery opened in 2017 it has become a community hub for the neighborhood, and to that end, it even hosts live music on weekends and sells paintings by local artists on its walls. “Everybody from the neighborhood comes,” Conrad said—and they bring their dogs with them. “You know, we see everybody! I know all the dogs—I know the dogs more than I know the people.” Her culinary skills extend even to fourlegged friends: Visiting dogs get bacon.
ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT Coconut flour is another lowcarb, gluten-free option, but it is a challenging ingredient to bake with; it’s high in fiber, so it absorbs a lot of liquid during baking. Swap about 1/4 to ¹/₃ cup coconut flour for 1 cup of regular flour, and increase the number of eggs.
ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT Confectioners’ sugar, or powdered sugar, is finely ground white sugar mixed with a bit of cornstarch; the ratio is about 1 cup sugar to 1 tablespoon cornstarch. Confectioners’ sugar dissolves quickly, and the texture makes it ideal for frostings and icings.
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