Rouses Magazine - Winter 2023 by Rouses Markets

WINTER 2023

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THANKS & GIVING

OUR GULF COAST FOOD BANKS

’Tis t he Seasonings

GOLD AWARD

BEST QUALITY + BEST PRICE Our customers aren’t the only ones who think our brand delivers the best quality at the best price.

GOLD AWARD

WINNER

2022 NYIOOC WORLD OLIVE OIL COMPETITION

Salute to Excellence Award 2023

Private Label Manufacturing Association (PLMA)

Our Rouses Italian Strawberry Flavored Soda was put to the test against 750 products and judges placed our product first for taste, packaging, product concept and value for money. We are very proud of the products we make and are honored to receive recognition for the hard work of our senior brand strategist, Amanda Kennedy; our merchandising team; our vice president of specialty Jason Martinolich; and our private brand business manager, Beverly Zarlengo.

Gold & Silver Awards

2021/2022 NYIOOC World Olive Oil Competition

Out of 1000 entries from 27 countries, Rouses Sicilian Organic Olive Oil received a Gold Award from NYIOOC World Olive Oil Competition in 2022. Rouses Sicilian Olive Oil received a Silver Award from the 2021 competition. Our authentic Italian olive oils are produced in West Central Sicily, with passion and dedication to the ancient oil tradition and natural heritage of Italy. We partner with the Italian Trade Association to ensure we can provide customers with the best products Italy has to offer.

R O U S E S W I N T E R 20 23

Making a Grocery List & Checking it Twice

very Christmas I make a peanut butter-glazed ham. When we think of peanut butter, most of us associate it with jelly — is there anything better than a PB&J? But peanut butter goes exceptionally well with salty and savory food, too. So peanut butter and ham makes sense, at least to me. Of course, I use our very own Rouses Markets Peanut Butter. We established our own brand in 2008, but our focus on expanding our product range began in earnest in 2017 — which is when we introduced our peanut butter, by the way. Today, we offer almost a thousand items, or SKUs (pronounced “skews”). SKU stands for stock keeping unit, and it’s how we identify and manage our inventory, or stock. Our brand offers the best quality at the best price, and you won’t find it anywhere else. It has a dedicated following, and not just because of the price, which averages 18% lower than the national brand but has the same quality. Customers have their favorite products, just like they have their favorite stores. (Our Spicy Ketchup has a cult following; it’s great for cocktail sauce.) I’m a big fan of our Sour Power Belts — they’re sweet and stretchy and chewy candy with a super-sour crystal coating that will make your mouth pucker.

flavors of the Gulf Coast. Our rice for your dressing is from Louisiana, and so is our sugar for your baking. Rouses brand Frozen Shrimp and Gumbo Crabs are certified Louisiana seafood.

It takes a lot of effort to earn our seal of approval. That's why we say if our name is on the label, you can trust that it’s good. Since my name is on this peanut butter ham, you can trust that it’s good, too.

I encourage you to try our Mac and Cheese blend for your holiday casserole; it’s made with Cheddar, Swiss and American cheeses. And our Eggnog, which is based on my grandmother’s recipe — well, customers wait all year for us to put it out during the holidays. Our refrigerated Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough is a break-apart dough that we’ve carefully tweaked for larger, plumper cookies (which Santa will appreciate).

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays,

CEO, 3rd Generation

There’s a difference between dressing and stuffing — not just how they’re cooked but who cooks them. When we select items, we always consider what our customers love to eat, not what a national audience would prefer. We collaborate with local suppliers whenever possible because local companies understand the FLIP TO PAGE 25 FOR DONNY ROUSE’S PEANUT BUTTER GLAZED HAM RECIPE W W W. R O U S E S . C O M

Contributors Creative Director & Editor Marcy Nathan Art Director & Design Eliza Schulze Illustrator Kacie Galtier Designer Mary Ann Florey Marketing Coordinator Harley Breaux

DAVID W. BROWN David W. Brown is a freelance writer whose work appears in The Atlantic, The New York Times, Scientific American and The New Yorker. His most recent book, The Mission: A True Story, a rollicking adventure about a motley band of explorers on a quest to find oceans on Europa, is in bookstores now. Brown lives in New Orleans.

SUSAN LANGENHENNIG GR ANGER Susan Langenhennig Granger is editor of Preservation in Print magazine and director of communications and marketing for the Preservation Resource Center in New Orleans. Prior to that she was a news editor, reporter and feature columnist for The Times-Picayune and NOLA.com.

LIZ THORPE Copy Editor Patti Stallard Advertising & Marketing ron bonacci Tim Acosta Amanda Kennedy Stephanie Hopkins Nancy Besson Taryn Clement Peyton finch

Liz Thorpe is a world-class cheese expert. A Yale graduate, she left a “normal” job in 2002 to work the counter at New York’s famed Murray’s Cheese. She is the founder of The People’s Cheese, and author of The Book of Cheese: The Essential Guide to Discovering Cheeses You’ll Love and The Cheese Chronicles.

POPPY TOOKER Poppy Tooker is a native New Orleanian who has spent her life immersed in the vibrant colors and flavors of her state. Poppy spreads her message statewide and beyond via her NPR-affiliated radio show and podcast, “Louisiana Eats!”

MICHAEL W. T WITT Y Michael W. Twitty is the winner of two James Beard Awards for The Cooking Gene, as well as Rice by UNC Press. His latest book, Koshersoul: The Food and Faith Journey of an African American Jew, won the Jewish National Council’s National Jewish Book Award for the 2022 book of the year.

Cover photo by Romney Caruso 2

R O U S E S W I N T E R 20 23

e G e t t h at r e c ip e c om s. r ou s e

Table of Contents In Every Issue 1 Making a Grocery List & Checking it Twice by Donny Rouse 7 Letter from the Editor by Marcy Nathan 9 Cookin’ on Hwy. 1 with Tim Acosta 13 Merry-Go-Round by Ali Rouse Royster

54 Shalom Y'all by Michael W. Twitty 62 Christmas Roast by Marcelle Bienvenu

Recipes 8 Hwy. 1 Glazed Brussels Sprouts 20 Bourbon Turkey Brine 21 Smoked Turkey

Eat, Think & Be Merry

25 Donny Rouse’s Peanut Butter Ham

16 Better Call Butterball by Susan Langenhennig Granger

26 Hawaiian Sliders

20 Yours, Brine & Ours by David W. Brown

55 Michael Twitty’s Louisiana Latkes

26 Mele Kalikimaka by David W. Brown

57 Cajun Latkes

31 Thanks & Giving by David W. Brown

61 Sweet Potato Casserole

39 'Tis the Seasoning by Poppy Tooker

Beef Tenderloin

44 Brie en croute by Liz Thorpe Rockin’ Around the Christmas Brie by Liz Thorpe 47 Fizz the Season by David W. Brown 48 It's a Wine-derful Life by David W. Brown 50 Jingle Bell Mock by David W. Brown

Photo by Romney Caruso

Lobster Mac & Cheese

62 Marcelle Bienvenu’s Mama’s Stuffed Pork Roast Marcelle Bienvenu’s Dressed Up Rice Hwy. 1 Stuffed Mirlitons 63 Mrs. Rouse’s Cocoons Mr. Anthony Rouse’s Down Home Oyster Dressing Sue Rouse’s Penut Butter Fudge 64 Roasted Asparagus 65 Creamy Seafood Sauce

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Come holiday time, the kitchen is where our most cherished traditions come to life – and we’re proud to play a part in the festivities! To all the cooks, bakers, and chefs whose creations make the holidays taste like home, may the flavors and fun of this season bring you happiness and joy.

Happy Holidays! VISIT US AT REILYPRODUCTS.COM A FAMILY OF NEW ORLEANS BRANDS

R O U S E S W I N T E R 20 23

Letter from the Editor

By Marcy Nathan

STRESS EATING very cook, no matter how

seasoned, occasionally stumbles in the kitchen. We’ve all been there: reaching for the baking soda instead of the baking powder, accidentally adding salt instead of sugar, or condensed milk when evaporated was called for. Even the most experienced baker makes the occasional slip, like using cumin instead of cinnamon in pumpkin pie. It’s all part of the beautiful journey of cooking and baking. I once tried to degrease a pizza while it was still piping hot and it swallowed the whole paper towel. No one was the wiser. The biggest mistake people make in the kitchen is not reading the recipe all the way through before they start cooking. I am so guilty of that.

I missed the most crucial step when we were preparing Donny Rouse’s peanut butter ham for this issue: knowing when to glaze the ham. So, we had to abandon our first attempt and hurriedly acquire a different ham, right in the midst of our photo shoot. Then we had to cook it. The combination of remaking Donny’s signature dish and the anxious wait for it to cook led the whole magazine team to stress eat. The skillet of Brussels sprouts Tim made didn’t stand a chance against our anxiety, and neither did the speck he fried. We polished off dozens of cookies Mary Ann baked and decorated for our Table of Contents page. We ate the original failed ham, slice by slice by slice, with our hands — we didn’t even use plates. We drank the melting gelatos from our Italian ad like they were milkshakes. And we watched as Peyton devoured 10 King’s Hawaiian Rolls — TEN — from the packs we brought for our slider shot. Oh, and we ate the sliders too.

As if that that wasn’t enough, our friends in the Bakery Department held a meeting next door to our photo shoot, and then gave us their leftover jambalaya, chicken fingers, croissants and French bread. Which we also ate. I personally consumed more at this photo shoot than I typically do during an entire Thanksgiving or Christmas feast combined. The only items we left untouched were the turkey necks that Lee smoked while preparing the turkey and ham — but that’s only because he told us not to eat them because he wanted them for his lunch. So as you prepare to stress eat your way through the holidays, know that we’re here to offer you some invaluable recipes and tips, including the correct recipe for Donny Rouse’s ham so you can get it right the first time. And remember the timeless advice of the legendary Julia Child: “Learn how to cook — try new recipes, learn from your mistakes, be fearless, and above all, have fun!”

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leave the fuss to us! ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT We sell fully prepared roasted Brussels sprouts with bacon in our Deli by the pound, half pan or full pan for the holidays. Please order ahead.

Rouse Family Recipe

HWY. 1 GLAZED BRUSSELS SPROUTS Serves 4 Speck is a type of cured, lightly smoked ham, similar to prosciutto crudo. Speck is redder and has a firmer texture than prosciutto.

WHAT YOU WILL NEED: 6 pieces authentic Italian speck (or prosciutto) 2 tablespoons authentic Italian olive oil, plus a little for frying speck ½ onion, diced 2-3 cloves garlic, minced

R O U S E S W I N T E R 20 23

1 pound Brussels sprouts, cleaned and halved ¼ cup (4 tablespoons) chopped Calabrian Peppers ½ cup Rouses authentic Italian Balsamic Vinegar ½ cup shredded Parmigiano Reggiano

garlic, and sauté until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Move onions and garlic to one side of the pan and add Brussels sprouts, cut side down, and cook undisturbed for 3-4 minutes, until golden on the bottom.

HOW TO PREP: Fry speck in a large, heavybottomed skillet in a little oil over medium heat until crispy. Transfer to a paper towel lined plate to drain off excess oil.

Toss onions and Brussels sprouts, adding more olive oil if needed, and cook undisturbed for 1-2 more minutes. Add Calabrian peppers and speck. Toss to coat and heat through, around 2-3 more minutes. Drizzle with balsamic vinegar and sprinkle with cheese. Serve hot.

Add 2 tablespoons olive oil to the skillet. Add onion and

Photo by Romney Caruso

Cookin’ on Hwy. 1

David W. Brown with Tim Acosta, Rouses Markets Advertising & Marketing Director

Northern Italy, the birthplace of traditional balsamic vinegar. Similar to how Champagne is exclusively produced in the Champagne region of France, authentic balsamic vinegar can only come from specific areas, with Modena being one of the most important locations.

Petit Chou (Little Cabbages) Brussels sprouts, part of the cabbage family, bear a striking resemblance to little cabbages. (Petit chou is French for little cabbages.) You may not have liked Brussels sprouts as a kid, because most kids don’t like bitter or sour flavors, which is what they taste like when they are boiled or microwaved. But if you experience them cooked another way, you might learn to appreciate them and maybe actually love them, like I do. The easiest way to cook Brussels sprouts without them getting soggy is to roast them in a 400ºF oven with olive oil, salt and pepper, for 15 to 20 minutes, shaking the pan every 5 minutes. (I can’t resist eating all of the little crunchy bits right off the sheet pan.) I made this recipe in a black-iron skillet because, for most of us, oven space is taken up by turkeys and ham and roasts and casseroles on holidays. I stirred in balsamic vinegar for some sweetness — that works with roasted Brussels sprouts, too; just sprinkle it on at the end. I can’t give you an accurate count on how many my recipe actually serves because as soon as we got the photograph taken, the magazine team devoured them. They didn’t even use plates; they just ate them right out of the skillet.

Cheese Parmigiano Reggiano cheese is carefully regulated by the Italian government through strict guidelines. It is exclusively crafted in designated provinces, including Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, and parts of Bologna and Mantua. Speck Speck is a cured and lightly smoked ham akin to prosciutto crudo. Authentic Italian speck is known as Speck Alto Adige IGP. This label guarantees the product’s authenticity and quality, as each ham must be carefully inspected by a governing consortium. Olive Oil The protected designation of origin Val di Mazara is reserved for extra virgin olive oil that meets specific requirements and conditions in all stages of cultivation, production and distribution. The olives are produced, processed and packaged throughout the province of Palermo and in some towns of the province of Agrigento.

Authentic Italian Our collaboration with the Italian Trade Agency enables us to present truly genuine Italian products to our customers. Many of our partnered companies in Italy are family-owned enterprises, passed down through generations, much like Rouses Markets. These businesses adhere to traditional practices that have stood the test of time, sometimes for centuries. When we sought out balsamic vinegar for our stores, the Italian Trade Agency guided us to the Modena area in

Balsamic Vinegar Our balsamic vinegar of Modena (in Italian: aceto balsamico) with 65% grape must is dark, thick and intensely flavored, with a bit of sweetness. Calabrian Peppers Calabrian chili peppers are grown in Calabria, a region in Southern Italy.

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MAC AND CHEESE

SO YOU CAN CHEESE FREELY Violife Mac & Cheese Bake Prep time: 15 min

Cooking time: 30 min

Serves: 4

INGREDIENTS

DIRECTIONS

•

2 packs Violife Just Like Cheddar Shreds

•

1 cup plant-based milk

•

1 tbsp of your favorite dairy-free butter

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. In a large pot, heat the plant-based milk with Violife Just Like Cheddar Shreds.

•

2 tsp onion powder

•

2 tsp garlic powder

•

1½ tsp salt

•

1½ tsp ground black pepper

•

17.6 oz cavatappi pasta

•

Chopped chives

2. Add the butter, onion powder, garlic powder, salt, and pepper and whisk until nicely melted for about 5 minutes. Remove from heat. 3. Boil macaroni according to packet instructions, rinse and drain. Place back in the pot and top with the cheesy sauce, mixing well until evenly coated. 4. Spoon into a cast iron pan. Place pan in the oven and bake for 20 minutes. Sprinkle with chives and serve. © 2023 Upfield

R O U S E S W I N T E R 20 23

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Merry-Go-Round

By Ali Rouse Royster, 3rd Generation

here are many things that I love, but up at the top of the list are three things: my big, crazy family; Christmas season; and a party. Put all of those together, and I couldn’t be merrier! That kind of celebration was long part of our family tradition, but after my grandparents passed and my cousins and I all started having babies, the big family Christmas Eve gathering naturally fell to the wayside.

Last year, I was able to talk “the adults” (my parents and aunts and uncles) into getting the gang back together. I even trotted out old family Christmas photos in an effort to induce nostalgia. And because this was mostly my doing, I tried to help with the party planning as much as possible. I reached out to my favorite caterer — those fine folks at Rouses Markets — and we came up with a variety of “festive finger foods” — rather than a sit-down dinner — since our whole family loves to chitchat and mingle. I was really proud of my little menu, which consisted of some classics like charcuterie and finger sandwiches, but also some fun, new and different items. But after I was asked by not one, not two, but five of my family members if we were having egg rolls…well…I added them to the menu, thus saving the Rouse family tradition of having egg rolls at all family events ( I give in! I’ll never leave them off again!). We had a wonderful time together again in 2022, and we’re keeping it going in 2023; I’ve already talked my aunt into hosting this year, but she doesn’t need my help with the menu! There’s no way she would forget the egg rolls!

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Better Call Butterball By Susan Langenhennig Granger Every year around this time, millions of Americans come down with an acute case of diemeleagrisphobia. How bad is the affliction? A quick Google search provides clues. Type in “fear of cooking turkey” and 67.5 million (million!) results come up. “Is it difficult to cook turkey” produces a whopping 158 million results.

iemeleagrisphobia isn’t a real word in Latin — or any language, for that matter. It’s not even a true phobia, given that it was purportedly coined by Food Network host Alton Brown to sum up the fear of cooking a Thanksgiving turkey. But it is, nonetheless, a common feeling, as Nicole Johnson can attest. She spends weeks leading up to Thanksgiving and throughout the holiday season counseling those afflicted.

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As director of the esteemed Butterball Turkey Talk-Line, she hears it all — the bizarre ideas (no, you shouldn’t defrost your turkey in a dishwasher); the poignant moments (the widower cooking Thanksgiving for his family for the first time after the death of his wife); the terror (in-laws arriving in an hour, turkey still frozen). Johnson has been “talking turkey” since 2001, as they like to say at the company. So, why are so many Americans (and Canadians!) so terrified of cooking turkey? Is it really that hard? Short answer: No, it’s actually pretty straightforward. Like many things in life, it’s the expectation that causes the anxiety. Our national holiday stuffs Norman Rockwell visions and pumpkin spice into the heated pressure cooker of modern American family dynamics. With such volatile ingredients, the holidays can easily overheat. So, how do you bring down the boiling point? A reassuring voice — an actual human, no AI! — can make all the difference, Johnson said. “I have an acronym that I call PUG: Patience, Understanding and Grace,” said Johnson, who chatted via Zoom from her home in Illinois in late September as she was gearing up for the Talk-Line staff’s extensive training sessions. “Because you really don’t know, maybe someone is abrupt on the other line; we don’t know what’s going on behind closed doors. We never want to take anything personally. Our job is to provide them nutritional advice and food safety, but also that counseling aspect — put yourself in their shoes, help calm them down. That reassuring voice might change the whole day for them.” Each year, thousands of people call the Talk-Line, which is staffed by more than 50 food science and nutrition professionals. Everyone on the job is a turkey expert. At minimum, they hold bachelor’s degrees, though most have master’s, and two have doctorates, all in dietetics, food science, nutrition or related culinary fields. Some are retired professors; others have full-time jobs and take time off to operate the seasonal hotline, which is open from Nov. 1 through Dec. 24. Talk-Line staffers range in age from the mid-20s up to 81 years old. “The average tenure is 16 years,” Johnson said. In addition

to professional credentials, there’s another prerequisite for the job: empathy. “It’s something I look for in every single interview (for a Talk-Line position).”

be handed that task of preparing their first Thanksgiving meal in their 50s, 60s. Maybe their mom’s always done it, and now she’s no longer here.

That’s been the bedrock of the hotline all the way back to its founding. In 1981, the Butterball Turkey Talk-Line was born with the goal of de-stressing the holiday and advertising the brand. That year, six home economists — all female, armed with culinary knowledge stored in an old-school Rolodex — served 11,000 callers.

“We do get a lot of phone calls from [people shopping at] the grocery store,” she continued. “They ask us what kind of turkey to purchase. Fresh, frozen? They’re calling the day before Thanksgiving. They don’t realize it takes X number of days to defrost a turkey. OK, not to worry, you can purchase a fresh turkey.”

Since then, the Talk-Line has fielded nearly three million calls, and the team includes “eight or nine men,” Johnson said. Nowadays, home cooks looking for advice can reach the hotline by text, email and chat as well as the old-fashioned way (dialing a number). The phone remains the heart of the operation.

Johnson can relate to the calls from the busy moms, kids cutting up in the background. When Johnson started at the Talk-Line, she was right out of graduate school. “I started when I was 22, 23 years old. I didn’t have any kids at that time. Now I have four kiddos,” she said. “My oldest is off to college, my youngest is in the sixth grade. My kids have grown up with it.”

“There’s something special about that connection over the line,” Johnson said. “We get that often — callers are surprised they’re not reaching a recording; it’s truly someone live on the phone.” By 2023, it sure seems like YouTube would have killed the Talk-Line. But a video is cold comfort compared to the soft Midwestern lilt of the Naperville, Ill.based team. Callers, too, range in age and temperament. “We might get a first-time cook, and that doesn’t necessarily mean they’re young in age,” Johnson said. “They might

All staffers are required to attend kitchen, phone, chat and email trainings in October. Most of the Talk-Line staffers still work in person on the fifth floor of their office in Naperville. But since the pandemic, a few have gone remote. “It’s a dedicated team,” Johnson said. “They give up their Thanksgiving every year.” Shifts can last from eight to 10 hours. The average length of a call is three-and-a-half minutes, though there’s no time limit. “The fun W W W. R O U S E S . C O M

ones are on the speakerphone, maybe it’s a husband and wife; he believes one way, she believes another way,” she said, “and we are the turkey mediator.” The busiest shifts are, no surprise, during the week of Thanksgiving, particularly from 6 to 10 on Thanksgiving morning. “As soon as we open the phones, we already have a queue,” Johnson said. But the team also gets a good warm-up in October, when they host a Butterball Talk-Line for the Canadian Thanksgiving, which took place Oct. 9 this year. The food traditions are similar; turkey remains the star of the table. For the Canadian callers, a French/ English bilingual staffer joins the phones. There are also Spanish-speaking turkey experts available during the full season. On both sides of the border, the staffers know that there’s a common misperception about the “difficulty” of cooking turkey. “The idea that it takes all day, all night; Grandma wakes up at 3 in the morning to cook the turkey. That’s not the case,” Johnson said. “We ask you the weight of the turkey, stuffed or unstuffed, and then we give you a range (for how long it will take). My oven is newer, so it might cook faster than my mom’s.” To make sure they’re speaking the same culinary language as their callers, the Talk-Line staffers also bone up on various regional cooking techniques and dishes. They know about frying turkeys, popular on the Gulf Coast, and they can provide safety tips for what happens when a refrigerated bird hits boiling oil. They also understand that some people (bless their hearts) call it stuffing, not dressing.

“A few years ago, microwaving a turkey started as a social media joke,” Johnson said, “but it became a craze.” Why, oh why, would someone want to microwave a turkey? “Well, if your oven is out of commission and you didn’t realize it until Thanksgiving morning, and you’re looking around wondering how else you can cook a turkey,” Johnson said. “We would talk to you about an outdoor grill, maybe, depending on where you live. I might talk about a crockpot, if the turkey is small enough. But the microwave can be done. It’s tedious, and there are some steps involved. But at the end of the day, you do have a cooked turkey. (In case you’re wondering, microwaved turkey tastes more steamed than roasted.) Other funny calls over the years include the woman whose dog jumped up, grabbed the turkey from the dinner table and dragged the whole thing to the floor and started eating it — before the family could sit down for their meal. Johnson could relate to that one — “I have a giant goldendoodle and a little Frenchie,” she said — and the Talk-Line helped the caller figure out that a fresh turkey (already defrosted) would save the day — and meal. So, what is Johnson’s No. 1 tip for turkey perfection? “Do not forget about your best friend on Thanksgiving Day — your meat thermometer, of course. It should register 180 degrees [Fahrenheit] in the thigh and 170 in the breast for best eating quality.”

Professional Background: The fall of 2001 was a busy one. Nicole was finishing up her graduate student work in nutrition dietetics and starting her first season of talking turkey with the Butterball Turkey Talk-Line. Over the last 20+ years of talking turkey, she has developed lifelong friendships with the Butterball team that have become an extension of her own family. She cannot imagine spending Thanksgiving with anyone but the Butterball family!

Favorite Thing About Talking Turkey:

“I love talking turkey to all the different ‘kitchens’ in America; some are quiet, others are full of chatter. The connection remains the same, however: providing the best advice to help celebrate their Thanksgiving meal.”

Go-to Thanksgiving Tip:

“Do not forget about your best friend on Thanksgiving Day — your meat thermometer, of course! It should register 180°F in the thigh and 170 in the breast for best eating quality!”

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HOW TO ROAST A TURKEY Allow one day of thawing in the refrigerator for every four pounds of turkey. Remove any giblets from the cavity and reserve for stock or gravy. The most common and traditional way is a standard roast. First, brine your turkey. This is a process that involves fully submerging the bird overnight in a solution of water, salt and other seasonings. The brine is absorbed into the meat of the turkey, which helps to keep it moist during the roasting process. A brined turkey can be roasted at a higher temperature for a slightly shorter length of time, which also helps the meat retain its moisture. (A non-brined turkey roasts lower and slower.) The Food and Drug Administration and U.S. Department of Agriculture both recommend roasting your bird until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of a thigh reaches a temperature of 185ºF. (This is true whether you grill it, smoke it or roast it.) For a brined turkey, preheat your oven to 400ºF. Do not use the convection setting. Roast the turkey for 20 minutes, then lower the oven temperature to 325ºF. Cooking times will vary based on the size of the bird. Plan for about 15 minutes per pound, regardless of total weight. (Your biggest limitation will be the size of your oven.) To protect your turkey from browning too quickly or drying out, create a foil “tent” to cover the turkey breast. This will help insulate the quicker-cooking breast and maintain its moisture. Remove the tent for the last 20 minutes of cooking for that nice, crisp, golden-brown skin.

HOW TO SPATCHCOCK A TURKEY Spatchcocking or butterflying has become particularly popular in the last few years (it is especially popular for chicken). Spatchcocking involves carving out the turkey’s backbone and flattening the turkey on a baking sheet with the breast facing up, the bird splayed open. It will slash the cooking time while allowing you also to indulge any latent and grisly Halloween impulses. The finished product will retain its moisture better simply because it doesn’t have to cook as long. To spatchcock a turkey, you will want first to brine it, just as you would a bird for a traditional roast. When ready to roast, preheat your oven to 350ºF. Brush the turkey with oil and, depending on its weight, cook in

Let’s Talk Tu rkey the preheated oven for 70 to 90 minutes. (A 12-pound turkey will take approximately 70 minutes.) Because your turkey is splayed open with no center cavity, a safe internal temperature is 165ºF. Once the roasting is complete, you’ll discover a very even cooking of the legs, thighs and breast. The breast is typically the part of the bird that suffers most during a traditional roast, drying slowly over time. By opening the turkey with this technique, the breast will be far juicier and have more flavor.

HOW TO FRY A TURKEY Deep-frying is a great way to prepare a turkey in terms of speed and flavor, but it’s not without its risks. You’ll need to fry it in an open area with no covering (i.e., outside and definitely not in the garage or under any patio covering). You will need a large thermometer made specifically for your pot to monitor the temperature of the oil. To deep-fry a turkey, first pat it down to remove all water. The biggest mistake people make is attempting to fry a turkey with moisture on or in it. Water will cause the oil to splatter, which can cause severe burning and/or a house fire. Bring your oil to 350ºF, and fry your turkey at threeand-a-half minutes per pound. Your standard-issue, 12-pound turkey takes about 45 minutes to fry. You need enough oil in the pot to fill the turkey’s cavity while leaving a gap between the top of the turkey and the surface of the oil, and a gap between the surface of the oil and the top of the pot. You don’t want the turkey to cause the pot to overflow, so you don’t want too much oil there, either — yet you must have enough oil. It’s a difficult balance to achieve.

BRINE BUCKET ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT Our brine bucket kits take the

guesswork out of preparation. They include two giant resealable plastic bags, a salt-and-seasoning mixture, and a recipe card that tells you everything you need to know.

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Yours, Brine & Ours By David W. Brown

ou might have noticed the Lee Veillon, Vice President of Human Resources gorgeous turkey on the cover of this month’s issue. It was prepared by Rouses Markets’ own Lee Veillon, Vice President of Human Resources. He is an avid cook and, in previous issues, you’ve probably seen other dishes he has prepared. This year he wanted to give his turkey a little kick, and he prepared a bourbon-based brine using the Rouses Markets Brine Kit. After the bird bathed for 24 hours, it was ready for the smoker. You can find Lee’s recipe below and try it yourself. (Be sure to send pictures so we can compare!) If you work at Rouses Markets or are applying to work at Rouses Markets — there are 7,000 team members — you’ve encountered Lee or his team. They handle everything from job fairs to employee benefits. “We are a family-owned business, and we treat our team members like a family as well,” he told me with his distinct Cajun accent. “There is no question that we have the best employees in the business.” As we move into fall and winter, the string of feast days means that the stores see a rush of shoppers. Some want to buy ingredients to cook at home, and some HOW TO FREEZE want Rouses to TURKEY OR HAM handle the cooking for them. Frozen turkey or ham can typically be stored in the freezer for up to 4-6 months for optimal quality and taste. Always practice safe food handling and storage to ensure the best results. Visit www.rouses.com to for tips on how to properly package, freeze & defrost.

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That means the Rouses team is busy in the front of the store and in the back. “Obviously, we encourage everyone to get their orders in early,” Lee says with a laugh. “The team does a fantastic job with preparing that. And we know that, at the last minute, things

sometimes come up. What makes our team members special is their ability to adapt. They’ll find a way to get the job done. Shoppers can count on us to have that meal ready for them.” Rouses does its best to help its entire team celebrate the holidays as well. “We do different events throughout the year for our team members,” says Lee. “Every Thanksgiving, we give out free turkeys so they can enjoy it with their families. We’ve been doing that for at least as long as I’ve been here, which is 17 years.” And they’ve definitely earned it, because it’s hard work running a grocery store! “It can be pretty demanding. Just being on your feet all day, walking from one side of the store to the other, to the back room — it all adds up,” he added. The hours can be long — they’re there early, before the store opens, and late, after it closes. Shelves are stocked, and floors and counters are cleaned. The Rouses team makes it look easy, even invisible, to guests — but that, Lee says, is what makes them the best in the business. New employees are often surprised by how many people they’ll interact with on a daily basis at any one of the Rouses locations. Familiar faces of frequent shoppers make them keep smiling, though. Anyone interested in joining the team can look forward to the family atmosphere of a family company. “We’ve been around for over 60 years now, and we’re very flexible not only on hours and days in our work schedules, but also with the opportunities across the company. No matter what someone is interested in doing, we can usually find somewhere that they can enjoy and make a career out of.” At the end of the day, says Lee, it’s all about the customer. “We’re proud to be there for the customers, and we’ve been taking care of them for a long time. Customer service is our No. 1 priority. I think that gets lost in today’s world. We like to have smiles on our faces to welcome our store guests so they have a great experience when they first walk in, and so that it’s the thing they remember when they leave.”

BOURBON TURKEY BRINE For 1 10-to-12 pound turkey Turkey Tip: Place your brined turkey in the fridge, uncovered, 12 hours. This will help crisp the skin when it cooks.

WHAT YOU WILL NEED: 2 gallons of water 1 cup Buffalo Trace Bourbon 1 cup kosher salt 1 Rouses Brine Kit Bucket (or container of Rouses Turkey Brine) 1 10-to-12 pound turkey HOW TO PREP: Mix all ingredients in a Rouses Brine Kit Bucket, stirring to dissolve ingredients. (You can also use a large stockpot.) Remove giblets and packaging from turkey and discard (or save for another use). Place the turkey in the brine and seal the bucket. Add more water if needed to ensure turkey is fully submerged. Refrigerate 12-24 hours, repositioning the turkey halfway through as needed to make sure the bird is evenly brined.

Rinse the turkey, inside and out, thoroughly, under cold running water. Drain turkey and pat dry with paper towels; discard the brine.

SMOKED TURKEY Serves 6 to 8 Turkey Tip: For faster and more even cooking, spatchcock the turkey; this can be done before or after brining. See instructions on page 19.

WHAT YOU WILL NEED: 1 10- to 12-pound turkey, brined (see recipe) Natural lump charcoal Rouses Pecan Wood Logs 1 stick unsalted butter Meat Church Texas Sugar Rub (or substitute your favorite rub) HOW TO PREP: Remove the turkey from the refrigerator and let sit for 15-20 minutes before cooking. Season with Meat Church Texas Sugar Rub on all sides of the turkey, getting rub in all crevices. Meanwhile, set up the smoker using natural lump charcoal and light it. Heat to 250° to 275°F. Scatter pecan wood logs directly onto the coals. Melt butter on stove and add in 1 tablespoon Meat Church Texas Sugar Rub. Mix thoroughly. After 1 hour of cooking, baste the turkey with the butter/rub mix. Continue to smoke the turkey until darkly browned and cooked through, then baste again after cooking for an additional hour.

ORANGE WE GLAD! I had committed to providing satsumas for the Rouses Magazine team’s photoshoot. In our backyard in Chackbay, we have an array of citrus trees: navel oranges, Valencias, grapefruit, Louisiana sweets and satsumas that have been there for a good 25 years. Recently, we added lemon and blood orange trees to our orchard. The weather had been extremely dry, especially for most of the summer and throughout October. However, on the day of the photoshoot, rain came pouring down sideways. I found myself in the backyard wearing shrimp boots, while my husband, Ricky, held a large umbrella, helping me clip the satsumas. You can’t just pluck satsumas; you have to cut them. I’m not sure if it’s bad for the tree, but that’s the method my father-in-law taught me, and I knew I would hear him fussing all the way from heaven if I took a shortcut. – Penny Thibodeaux, Office Manager, Rouses Store Support, team member since 1988

BUFFALO TRACE ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT Buffalo Trace, consistently rated as

one of the world’s top distilleries and recognized for its distinctive quality, has garnered extensive worldwide media attention. Buffalo Trace is the company’s namesake bourbon. It’s just fantastic.

Smoke the turkey until it reaches 160°F for spatchcocked turkey, or 180°F for a whole bird, (total cook time will vary, but expect 3 to 3½ hours for a 10- to 12-pound spatchcocked turkey) in the deepest part of the breast. The turkey will continue to carry over a few more degrees to get to the USDArecommended 165°F. Remove the turkey once internal temperature is met and let rest for 20 minutes prior to carving. MEAT CHURCH ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT Add flavor to your holiday turkey, ham or roast. Matt Pittman’s Meat Church BBQ Rubs and Seasonings have the perfect balance of sweetness and heat, with just the right amount of seasoning. W W W. R O U S E S . C O M

Artesian aquifer quality.

LET THE FEASTIVITIES BEGIN Get the family rockin’ around the chicken feast. With its crispy skin and herb-infused flavor, this Brown Butter Roasted Chicken is the perfect holiday centerpiece.

BROWN BUTTER ROASTED CHICKEN For this recipe and other holiday favorites, SandersonFarms.com/recipes go to SandersonFarms.com/recipes.

PHOTOS BY ROMNEY CARUSO

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DONNY ROUSE’S PEANUT BUTTER GLAZED HAM Plan about 1/2 pound per person

WHAT YOU WILL NEED: 6- to 9-pound bone-in, spiral-cut ham 2-3 tablespoons Rouses Yellow Mustard 1 (8-ounce) can pineapple juice 1 (16-ounce) jar Rouses Creamy Peanut Butter 1 cup brown sugar HOW TO PREP: Set up the smoker using natural lump charcoal and light it. Heat to 250° to 275°F. Scatter pecan wood logs directly onto the coals. Place the ham, shank side down, in the smoker and cook for 20 minutes per pound, until it registers an internal temp of 140°F. While the ham is smoking, make the peanut butter glaze. Combine the mustard and pineapple juice in a pan, then add the peanut butter and brown sugar to make a thick paste. Cook over medium heat for 6-8 minutes, or until glaze has just thickened. Transfer the cooked ham to a platter. Brush the peanut butter glaze all over the ham. Serve warm.

Photo by Romney Caruso

“You don’t actually need to cook a spiral ham; it’s already fully cooked and ready-to-eat, and cut to the bone. But ham needs to be reheated if you’re adding a glaze. I always reheat it cut side down on my smoker, so that when the ham is ready, you can cut straight down, which makes it easier for everyone to grab a piece.” – Donny Rouse, CEO, 3rd Generation

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Mele Kalikimaka By David W. Brown To tell the history of Hawaiian bread is to tell the history of King’s Hawaiian — if only because Robert Taira, who founded the company, invented Hawaiian bread in the first place.

“R

obert had attended culinary school on the mainland, came home to Hawaii and, in the 1950s, founded a little place called Robert’s Bakery in a little town called Hilo, on the Big Island,” says John Linehan, the president of King’s Hawaiian. The young cook had tried Portuguese stone bread, which he really liked, but wanted to improve upon. “Stone bread is a little bit like the sweet bread, but with one major difference: unlike Hawaiian bread, which is as fluffy on the second day as on the first, Portuguese stone bread hardens overnight. Like, really hardens. Pound-nails-with-it hardens, which is where it gets its name.”

Robert wanted to give the bread a longer shelf life, and wanted to do so without additives or preservatives. He succeeded, and Hawaiian bread was born. It was an instant success on the island, and Robert soon outgrew his little store in Hilo. He relocated the business to a bigger place, on King Street in Honolulu, Oahu. (Though it is commonly believed that the name of the company, King’s Hawaiian, is a reference to King Kamehameha, who offered bread to the gods or some such thing, the “King” part of the name simply comes from the street where the company relocated. They were too big by then to keep the name Robert’s Bakery.) In the 1960s, Hawaiian restaurants and hotels carried King’s Hawaiian bread, and when tourists tried the bread, they had the same reaction

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we do: They wanted to know what it was and where they could get more of it. On the last day of vacations, the departing visitors would drop by the bakery on King Street and fill bags with the addictive bread. Robert and his wife, Tsuneko, started putting mail order certificates in the shopping bags for the tourists to take with them. The bread, as it turned out, was so popular that the cards started being mailed back to Hawaii from Japan, Latin America, Europe, all over Asia — all over the world. The tourists, now at home and hungry for the best taste of the islands, would order more, and some for their friends too. This meant that some people were gladly paying as much as $50 per loaf because of air freight prices. “The bread was so popular, in fact, that because of those little mail order certificates, King’s Hawaiian became the biggest customer of the United States Postal Service in the state of Hawaii, and the company was dropping off one or two truckloads of bread to the airport every morning,” says Linehan. Which is how everyone heard about King’s Hawaiian bread. In 1977, the company opened its first plant in Torrance, California, to better supply the mainland. The bakery, 24,000 square feet in area, is still operating today. In 2003, the company opened a second plant in the California town — this one nearly 100,000 square feet larger than the original. In 2011, the company expanded eastward yet again, opening the first of what would be two plants in Oakwood, Georgia. Despite its exponential growth — or perhaps because of it — King’s Hawaiian

remains a family-owned company, with three generations of the Taira family delivering that irresistible Hawaiian food. Robert’s son, Mark, took over as CEO when he was 26 years old. Like his father, Mark was born in Hawaii, and the company remains devoted to its place of origin.

HAWAIIAN SLIDERS Serves 18 to 24

WHAT YOU WILL NEED: ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus 1 tablespoon for cooking onions ½ sweet onion, finely chopped, about 1½ cups 2 packs (24-count) pull-apart King’s Hawaiian Rolls 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard (Dijon adds a more distinct mustard flavor than yellow) 2 tablespoons poppy seeds 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 3 ounces Swiss cheese, grated, about 2 cups ½ pound cooked ham, finely chopped, about 3 cups HOW TO PREP: Position racks in top and bottom thirds of the oven and heat oven to 400°F. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a large skillet over medium heat and cook onion, stirring occasionally, until fragrant and translucent, 8 to 10 minutes; remove from heat and set aside. Split each pack of rolls in half, without separating the rolls

HAWAIIAN SLIDERS ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT Pull-apart King's Hawaiian rolls pair perfectly with salty ham, sweet onion and Swiss cheese in these irresistible sliders.

individually, by running a large serrated knife parallel to the counter as you slice the still-connected rolls. Don’t pull the rolls apart; you want to keep them connected. Place two sheet pans in the oven, one on each rack, to heat. In a large mixing bowl, combine Dijon mustard, poppy seeds and Worcestershire sauce. Add the remaining half-cup of butter and warm onion. Stir in cheese and ham until evenly combined. Place one pack of Hawaiian rolls on a large sheet of aluminum foil large enough to encase the entire package of rolls. Spread about half of the ham mixture in an even layer over the bottom half of the rolls all the way to the edges. Close the rolls, laying the still-connected roll top over the ham-covered base. Wrap the rolls tightly with the foil, crimping the edges of the foil to enclose it. Repeat with the other flat of Hawaiian rolls. Divide the two packets between the two preheated sheet pans. Bake until the cheese melts and rolls get toasty, about 10 to 12 minutes. Unwrap and cut the sandwiches into individual sliders. Serve on platters.

WE’RE BRINGING BACK BOAR’S HEAD We’re happy to welcome back Boar's Head Meats and Cheeses to our deli. We’re working now to bring them to a store near you. Their fresh-cut and packaged options, along with a selection of pickles, mustards, and condiments, will provide a wide range of delicious choices for you to enjoy.

What’s the difference? CITY HAM VS. COUNTRY HAM ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT City ham — brined and conveniently packaged in plastic and labeled “ready to cook,” “partially cooked” or “ready to serve” — is the most popular pick for holiday dinners. It is soaked in or injected with brine, spice, sugar and curing agents, lightly smoked — often over hickory wood — and prebaked. It has a milder flavor than country ham, which undergoes a dry-curing process where the raw ham is coated in dry salt and undergoes a prolonged and slow air-drying process, akin to the methods used for Italian prosciutto. This technique creates a more concentrated and intense flavor. CURED VS. UNCURED ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT Curing is the method of preserving meat through the use of acid, salt and sugar. Uncured ham is the same cut as cured ham, but it has not been prepared with the same brine, smoke or flavorings that are used in cured meat. FRESH HAM VS. CURED ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT Fresh ham is an uncooked piece of pork from the rear leg

of the animal that has not been cured, smoked or processed in any way. It’s up to you to season, flavor and cook it according to your preferences or a particular recipe. BONE-IN VS. BONELESS ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT The main difference between bone-in and boneless ham is, well,

the bone! A bone-in ham is great for carving and looks impressive on the table. Plus, that ham bone can kick-start delicious soups and stocks. On the flip side, boneless hams are easier to carve and perfect for sandwiches. Taste and texture-wise, they’re pretty much the same — just choose based on how you plan to serve them.

RECOVERY FUND ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT The Maui Strong Fund is providing financial resources to support recovery needs for the people and places affected by the devastating Maui wildfires.

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Are you ready for

SLIDER SUNDAY? Scan for a chance to

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NO PURCHASE NECESSARY TO ENTER OR WIN. Open only to legal U.S. residents residing in 50 U.S./D.C., 18+. Starts at 12:00:01 a.m. ET on 9/1/23 and ends at 11:59:59 p.m. ET on 2/11/24. See Official Rules at www.SLIDERSUNDAY.com for entry period dates, additional eligibility restrictions, prize descriptions/restrictions/ARVs and complete details. Odds of winning depend on number of eligible entries received at end of corresponding entry period. Void where prohibited. Sponsor: King’s Hawaiian Bakery West, Inc., 19161 Harborgate Way, Torrance, CA 90501. The trademarks, logos and names of other companies, products and services are the property of their respective owners. Eligibility and product restrictions apply and are subject to change. ©2023 King’s Hawaiian Bakery West, Inc. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

DIP ANY WAY.

YOU CALL THE PLAYS.

3 0 R O U S E S W I N T E R 20 23

Thanks & Giving By David W. Brown “I have a more optimistic view than many people,” says Natalie Jayroe, the president and CEO of Second Harvest Food Bank of Greater New Orleans and Acadiana, a non-profit organization dedicated to fighting hunger in South Louisiana. “I get to witness the generosity of the community all the time, every single day.” Second Harvest collects and distributes donated food to community members in need.

a y ro e and I are walking through their immaculate, 200,000-squarefoot facility located in an industrial part of Elmwood, Louisiana. Forklifts zip around us between countless cargo pallets piled with 3 million pounds of food — everything from cereal boxes to salad dressing. The scale of the operation is breathtaking, more akin to a NASA center than the neighborhood soup kitchen. And they need every bit of that space. One out of every seven Louisianans are at risk for hunger, and one in five children. Louisiana is one of the most food-insecure states in the country, with one of the highest rates of food insecurity for seniors. “So, our work is cut out for us,” Jayroe says.

The story of Second Harvest began in 1982, when Archbishop Philip M. Hannan, Bishop Roger P. Morin and Gregory Ben Johnson, director of the Social Apostolate of the Archdiocese of New Orleans, started the organization as a nonsectarian endeavor and, in doing so, established the first food bank in the state of Louisiana. “We were founded by the Catholic Church as an organization that served all people in need,” Jayroe explains. “I think that was a brilliant decision on their part. It allowed Second Harvest to be seen as this entity that was for the entire community.” By July of the following year, the food bank was already distributing food to 23 faith-based and nonprofit partners. In 1985, it became a fully accredited member of what would later be called Feeding America. As a result, Second Harvest could receive large donations from across the country, and coordinate with other food banks nationally to exchange best practices and disaster responses.

Over time, Second Harvest has come to do more and more work across the southern part of the state. Their trucks have for years rolled to Lafayette, Lake Charles, Houma and Thibodaux. Today, they have, or are building, warehouses in those areas, allowing volunteers to collect more local food donations and move quickly to serve the people of those communities. “We can bring in the various programs that we offer in addition to food distribution, whether it’s our mobile market, our school pantries, our after-school and summer feeding programs, or our senior meal programs,” says Jayroe. The organization and its volunteers spearhead the battle against hunger in South Louisiana by providing not just food but also advocacy, education and post-disaster support through a vast network of more than 700 community partners and programs. It has grown to provide more than 50 million meals annually to those in need. Its mission encompasses food distribution programs, community kitchen meal service, nutrition education and public benefits assistance, aiming to create pathways out of poverty for the residents of South Louisiana. The remarkable journey of Second Harvest reflects Louisiana’s needs and heart. By being community-based, it is able to help people at the granular level. They look parish by parish at what they call the “missing meals”: the number of meals that families cannot afford to provide for themselves even after federal assistance. “In every parish, we know there are a certain number of million missing meals. We base our work on trying to fill that need, trying to close that gap, and ensure that there’s enough food going into each parish

“Rouses Markets is a big part of the reason we can be successful, because three-quarters of our food gets donated from private sources like the retailers.” – Natalie Jayroe, president and CEO of Second Harvest Food Bank of Greater New Orleans and Acadiana to reach all people that are hungry.” And hunger doesn’t look the same everywhere, Jayroe adds. “You could have a senior that’s homebound. How do we reach that person? We have children that we go to through our school pantries. You have cancer patients that need a box of fresh food after they get their chemotherapy. So how do we do things that ensure we’re reaching vulnerable people where they can most take advantage of the nutritious food that we have to offer them?” The organization’s response to hurricanes Katrina and Rita in 2005 proved defining moments. The disasters displaced more than a million people from their homes and devastated New Orleans and the Gulf Coast. Within two days of Katrina’s landfall, Second Harvest and its volunteers regrouped in Baton Rouge and, with the support of Feeding America and food bank volunteers nationwide, escalated operations to an unprecedented scale. By September 2005, Second Harvest had become the largest food bank in the history of the world. In those critical two years, Second Harvest distributed more than 75 million pounds of food. Presently, they distribute more than 40 million pounds of food annually. “Rouses Markets is a big part of the reason we can

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be successful, because three-quarters of our food gets donated from private sources like the retailers.” The remaining 25% comes from the organization’s partnership with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, through their Emergency Food Assistance Program. Walking through the facility, Jayroe brings me to a cavernous, 20,000-square-foot freezer. “It’s jam-packed,” she says. Food banks like Second Harvest have changed mightily in the last 15 years, adapting to the changing food industry. “When the food bank started over 40 years ago, we were primarily big dry warehouses, and we were getting mostly manufacturing overruns,” she explains. This meant cookies, crackers, cereal, candy — things that don’t perish. “That was great, but not necessarily the most nutritious food.” When the food industry reengineered itself for just-in-time ordering — that is, a streamlined inventory system where shelves are monitored and restocked only as needed — there were fewer available nonperishables for food banks. As that happened, however, perishable — and oftentimes much more nutritious — food was in greater supply. “These were things that were no longer marketable, but were still consumable, that so many of our retailers had to throw away.” Second Harvest invested in refrigerated trucks, and built bigger freezers and coolers to take advantage of an incredible new opportunity. Perishable donations grew quickly, to around 40% of the donated food that Second Harvest distributed. “For the retailers, it was a way to dispose of that food that they couldn’t market anymore without having to pay to put it into the landfill. So, it became a win-win. That’s so much of what I think food banking is. It’s good for everybody. It’s good for the economy, it’s good for the government, and it’s good for the people that we’re serving.” The numbers bear this out. Second Harvest works with more than 700 partners. In its first four years, it distributed 4 million pounds of 3 2 R O U S E S W I N T E R 20 23

food. In the four-year interval from 2017 to 2021, it distributed 226 million. In 2022 — its 40th anniversary — Second Harvest opened a community kitchen in Lake Charles and, with support from Gayle Benson, renovated the Elmwood facility, including installing air conditioning, which was a great boon for volunteers. Its portfolio of programs includes food access: distribution of food, whether through mobile pantries or outreach; senior hunger, including meals and deliveries; disaster relief; food systems such as their food desert initiative in Lafayette and grower and community garden programs; equity, such as mobile markets and development programs to solve food access issues; and wellness: how to eat right. Second Harvest is not alone in its efforts. Theodore, Alabama-based Feeding the Gulf Coast is a crucial organization combating food insecurity in 24 counties in Alabama, Florida and Mississippi, the latter of which is the hungriest state in the country. “Our vision is a hunger-free Gulf Coast, and our mission is providing access to nutrition for folks facing systemic hunger caused by various reasons, from disasters to health issues to systemic issues,” says Michael Ledger, the organization’s president and CEO. Feeding the Gulf Coast and its staff and volunteers work to find partners in

brick-and-mortar food pantries and mobile pantries, as well as other partners. They build networks of food assistance so that people facing hardships have direct access to nutrition. The other half of their work is collecting food, so that when people come for support, they have what they need to get through trying times. Additionally, the organization focuses on child nutrition: ensuring kids don’t go home to empty cabinets on weekends. Schools and afterschool sites identify the most vulnerable children and send them home with food for the weekend to ensure they are taken care of. The 2020s have presented huge and unprecedented challenges for Feed the Gulf Coast. “The need just exploded,” says Ledger. “During COVID, there were lines of cars filling entire parking lots at football stadiums, with people waiting for hours for food.” At the same time, the places the group serves faced multiple hurricanes — Sally, Zeta, Ida — and tornadoes in between. “These disasters were stacked on top of each other. Only now have we transitioned into what we call the post-COVID era, and with it, inflation has emerged as a significant hurdle.” Expenses these days are adding up to sums larger than many people are able to afford. “Food security is on a continuum. There are those in dire situations, but also folks who are managing most of the time until something happens: a medical emergency, inflation or a car breaking down. They are then faced with hard choices — especially if they are taking care of children and seniors. It doesn’t take much for people to find themselves in situations they never dreamt they would be in.” He points to one woman who, in the third trimester of her pregnancy, was told by her doctor that, due to complications, she could no longer work. She did not qualify

Rouses Markets is doing its part in the fight against hunger through its Food Bank Assistance Program — a year-round operation across Louisiana, Mississippi and Alabama that provides meals to those facing food insecurity. With the support of generous customers and vendor partners, the program has achieved a remarkable milestone: donating almost 50 million meals to local communities since its inception.

Photo Greater Baton Rouge Food bank, brfoodbank.org for the Family Medical Leave Act, which provides workers with job-protected leave for specified family and medical reasons, and extends health insurance coverage. “She found herself in a pantry for the first time in her life, bringing home food for her daughter,” says Ledger. Months later, she returned to the pantry to say thank you, and to let them know that she was back at work, that her baby was healthy, and that she no longer needed food assistance. “We see people in all kinds of situations. More folks are susceptible than ever before.” For someone suddenly in a situation where they need help, Ledger suggests visiting the Feeding the Gulf Coast website, which can direct individuals to mobile services and pantries based on ZIP code. Volunteers there can also help those in need sign up for SNAP benefits. But whether someone qualifies for that or not, the pantries are there to help. “You can show up at a pantry location, no questions asked,” says Ledger. “You don't need to bring anything with you.” Certain federal programs and resources are accessible with minimal to no paperwork. “Our goal is to ensure anyone can get access to food without the need to prove

their situation,” he says. “Anyone is welcome to seek assistance.” Meanwhile in Louisiana, the Greater Baton Rouge Food Bank has operated hunger and relief organizations since 1984. Last year it gave away more than 10 million pounds of food to over one hundred partners working the frontlines in food pantries, soup kitchens, shelters, child care centers and senior centers. “Our programs are aimed at meeting individuals, children and families where they are by providing food assistance and educational support to improve their position in life long term,” said Mike Manning, the organization’s president and CEO. Doing so, he adds, is a community-wide effort. “Louisiana leads the country in both child and senior hunger. In our 11-parish service area, one in six children are food insecure, meaning over 35,000 children in our community are not able to access three meals a day. Hunger is something we can address. It is curable, but it takes all of us to make it happen.” Rouses Markets is doing its part in the fight against hunger through its Food Bank Assistance Program — a year-round operation across Louisiana, Mississippi and Alabama

that provides meals to those facing food insecurity. With the support of generous customers and vendor partners, the program has achieved a remarkable milestone: donating almost 50 million meals to local communities since its inception. The program’s formula is simple and effective: Rouses collects both nonperishable food items and monetary donations at stores. Every contribution, whether a can of beans or a dollar bill, is funneled right back into the community. The collected resources bolster the operations of local food banks, food pantries and community refrigerators spread across the three states, creating a network of support for individuals and families grappling with hunger. Participating is made easy for the public. A visit to a Rouses store presents two straightforward options: Either scan a coupon at the register to add a small donation to your bill, or choose to purchase a pre-packed Brown Bag filled with canned goods for donation. The process is designed with the regular shopping experience in mind, making charity a simple choice. The food banks are in direct liaison with Rouses stores, ensuring a steady flow of W W W. R O U S E S . C O M 3 3

Donny Rouse, CEO and Rev. Mario E. Dorsonville bishop of Houma-Thibodaux's Catholic diocese at the groundbreaking of the new Bayou Region Warehouse in Houma. collected goods toward those in need. Hunger relief is embedded in the business ethos of Rouses Markets, and also appears through various fundraising initiatives, such as Frozen Food Month, Ice Cream Month and Family Meals Month. Through these campaigns, Rouses Markets keeps food and funds flowing to the frontlines of the battle against hunger. Manning says Rouses is “very generous in providing unpurchased food resources to make sure food does not go to waste. We would not be able to reach as many families as we do without their support.” These goods flowing from Rouses are found, among many other places, at a 17,000-square-foot warehouse in the heart of Rouses country, on S. Hollywood Rd. in Houma, which was opened recently by Second Harvest and the Diocese of HoumaThibodaux and is set to begin operations soon. They built it to manage more fresh food and pantry stables than ever before for Terrebonne, Lafourche and St. Mary

parishes, and Grand Isle. In addition, volunteers will use a 3,400-square-foot kitchen to prepare as many as 3,000 meals per day — an urgent need in the Bayou region, where 10,000 children and 20,000 adults face hunger. The work doesn’t stop there. Rouses Markets, the official supermarket of the New Orleans Saints, has teamed up with the black and gold to run a community program to help address food insecurity in the city. The Tackle Hunger initiative brings together Saints players and fans through food drives. With support from such organizations as the Greater Baton Rouge Food Bank, Tackle Hunger reflects a broader collaborative effort, blending sports, community engagement and corporate responsibility to mitigate hunger and foster communal support during challenging times. Rouses’ efforts, and those of the community, are not misplaced. The 18-bay loading dock of the Second Harvest facility could rival any major warehouse program in the world. As

Rouses Markets, the official supermarket of the New Orleans Saints, has teamed up with the black and gold to run a community program to help address food insecurity in the city. The Tackle Hunger initiative brings together Saints players and fans through food drives. 3 4 R O U S E S W I N T E R 20 23

we walk through it, Jayroe shows me the large pallets of dry product being staged for the next morning’s run. Turnaround happens quickly. The trucks arrive each morning at 5:30, and by 7:30, are on the roads. The facility meanwhile receives eight truckloads or so of food per day. Everything is tracked and organized with a barcode management system. The disaster-prone community counts on the donations coming in and going out. But those disasters aren’t limited to hurricanes. “We started to talk about hunger as an everyday disaster, whether it affects a single child or an entire community affected by storms or downturns,” says Jayroe. “And so we ask, what can Second Harvest do best? We look at what we’ve got. We have capacity. We have a warehouse. We have freezers, coolers, kitchens. We have trucks. So how do we make sure that we’re using this capacity that we have, as completely as we possibly can, to strengthen communities? We are not thinking about it just in terms of how many pounds of food we can put out. We are asking who we can partner with that helps build resilience throughout South Louisiana.” Its partnership with Feeding America, the largest nonprofit network in the entire country, has been invaluable. The group is an umbrella for 200 food banks around the country. “The great thing about the Feeding America network is that it’s very

We donated nearly $50,000 to local food banks with funds raised during National Family Meals Month. (pictured left to right) John Sillars, Chief Strategy Officer, Second Harvest Food Bank of Greater New Orleans and Acadiana; Marc Ardoin, Store Director, Rouses Markets, Airline in Metairie; Emily Slazer, Director of Food Sourcing, Second Harvest Food Bank of Greater New Orleans and Acadiana; April Sins, registered dietitian nutritionist, Rouses Markets. Right: Lavern Sewell and Peggy Lyles. Photo by Elizabeth Gelineau.

grassroots driven,” says Jayroe. All the network’s big ideas and programs come from the field, and for things that can be replicated, Second Harvest and its myriad nationwide analogues facilitate the sharing of best practices, without restricting affiliate independence. “We have a saying in our world,” Jayroe says. “You see one food bank, you’ve seen one food bank.” Second Harvest’s response to Ida or Laura is necessarily much different from what food banks in California, responding to the wildfires, are up against. Even locally, the needs of Lake Charles and New Orleans, rural and urban, are entirely different. To that end, Second Harvest works with the emergency management departments across its 23 civil parishes. During times of crisis, it coordinates its relief efforts with the Salvation Army and other aid organizations. “We really work well together. We hear about needs and we divide up r esponsibilities so we’re not duplicating efforts, or sending all the food to the same place when so many other neighbors need some help as well.” Near the entrance of the facility, Jayroe and I come to a staging area with long stainless-steel tables. About 25 volunteers, mostly high school or college age, are moving quickly, sorting, filling and weighing bags of cereal. They are moving to the beat of a song playing on a sound system. “I can always tell

the age of the volunteers by the soundtrack,” Jayroe says with a laugh. By the end of the day, they will have packed tens of thousands of pounds of food — finding out exactly how much is part of the fun. A member of the Second Harvest team will reveal the number before they go. “When you volunteer here, you really feel like you’ve accomplished something.” Elsewhere, another 25 volunteers are working in a kitchen to prepare hot lunches for the community. “A lot of them are regulars. Many are retired, but some are school kids. They’re from all walks of life. They’re very different from each other, but they come together and they pack meals for seniors or meals for kids. And they have fun doing it.” That spirit, says Jayroe, is why Second Harvest succeeds. It is a conduit for the community’s generosity. “Caring is so important. When you start to divide from each other, you forget that this is us — that we’re all the same. One of the things at Second Harvest we try to do is break down those barriers. One out of seven people at risk for hunger? That means you know these folks. You know the seniors using the food banks. You know the kids that go to school without a healthy breakfast. You know them. We try to kind of break down that division between people, because once you do that, then it just becomes one community helping each other.”

HUNGER RELIEF ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT Hunger relief has been at the heart

of our community commitment since our first store opened in 1960. Our supplier partners like Molson Coors help us meet the needs of our local food banks throughout the year. W W W. R O U S E S . C O M 3 5

There’s no getaway like a Brett/Robinson getaway! The sound of the waves as they crash on the shore…the feeling of sugar-white sands beneath your toes…the refreshing smell of the salty sea breeze…and the spectacular view from your balcony is an experience you can taste for yourself during your stay on the Alabama Gulf Coast. All five of your senses will thank you!

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“If you see our name on the label, you can trust it’s good.” – Donny Rouse, CEO, 3rd Generation

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’Tis the Seasonings By Poppy Tooker Seasoned salt is a huge business in the United States, with sales across the category totaling more than $100 million annually. The concept was born in Beverly Hills, California, in 1938 when Lawry’s Prime Rib Restaurant began retailing their seasoned salt. Nowhere on earth has that category flourished like in South Louisiana, where all the Maméres and Péres have always had their own special blend of seasonings. Many Louisiana leaders in the field, like Tony Chachere and Paul Prudhomme, included their original spice formulas in their debut cookbooks, but after at-home chefs clamored for a ready-made product, both founded spice companies that continue to lead the field today. Many, many mom-and-pop businesses started by jarring their “secret” family spice recipe. Rouses Markets stocks hundreds of varieties to choose

TONY CHACHERE: Long regarded as an “Ole Master” in the kitchen, Tony Chachere was quite a gregarious character. Trips to his hunting and fishing camp in the Atchafalaya Swamp guaranteed delicious food. “Tonight, I’m gonna make ’em cry,” he was famous for boasting as he stirred up a pot of Louisiana homestyle deliciousness. His inimitable, sometimes spicy, sometimes salty flare remained a closely guarded family secret until Tony Chachere published his Cajun Country Cookbook in 1970, in which he revealed the recipe for his own seasoning blend. Two years later, his Creole Seasoning was so popular, Tony came out of retirement to begin commercially producing it himself. With his secret to success packaged in a bright green canister, the world opened its doors to Tony. His distinctive accent and proclivity to sip a little wine while he cooked made Tony a popular guest on national talk shows, too. From that original Creole blend, Tony grew the company with flavor varieties for every taste including no salt, more spice or more heat. He never tired of creating new products under the Famous Creole Cuisine banner. In Tony’s hometown of Opelousas, his family’s fourth generation continues the company’s tradition, offering more than 50 different food products including sauces, salad dressings and boxed mixes.

from on their grocery store shelves — perfect for adding a true taste of Louisiana to this year’s holiday menus. Along with premade mixes, Rouses Markets guarantees the freshest dried herbs and spices for those to DIY their own family’s recipes by crafting special holiday gifts. Take Chef Frank Brigtsen’s advice: “If you cook with spice blends, you’re halfway to good flavor.”

PAUL PRUDHOMME’S MAGIC SEASONINGS: In 1975, Chef Paul Prudhomme was tapped by Ella Brennan to become the first American-born chef at Commander’s Palace. Since his earliest days in professional kitchens, the Opelousas native mixed his own special seasoning blends, tucking them into little foil packets he carried with him everywhere. Prudhomme’s unique take on Cajun and Creole food led the way in what became a national movement heralding America’s homegrown food revolution.

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By 1979, Chef Frank Brigtsen was Prudhomme’s apprentice, learning the trade alongside the great chef. “One of my tasks was mixing Paul’s spice blends. I’d make a half-gallon at a time, right there in Commander’s kitchen,” he remembered. Once Prudhomme opened his own restaurant, K-Paul’s, his proclivity for sharing those “magic seasonings” prompted him to open his own spice blending company in 1982.

Like Prudhomme and Chachere, the television audience loved Emeril, and he became an important player in the early days of the Food Network. Urging audiences to “Kick it up a notch,” he became famous for tossing in a handful of seasoning as he boisterously shouted “Bam!” Naturally, a seasoning line was in order, beginning with a blend named after his successful TV show, Essence of Emeril.

Brigtsen credits Prudhomme’s Magic Seasoning Blends with playing a major part in the consistency that is a vital element in any restaurant’s success. After nearly 40 years, Brigtsen still relies on Magic Seasoning in his kitchen. “Although I have created and use some blends of my own now, I couldn’t cook without the foundation of Paul’s spice blends. We still use three of them every day,” Brigtsen said.

From that original seasoning blend, Emeril’s products grew to include BBQ and pasta sauces, mustards, stocks and panko bread crumbs, along with small appliances, cookware, cutlery and even kitchen-safe footwear. Take Chef Emeril’s advice and kick it up a notch this holiday season.

“Salt is the best flavor enhancer,” he continued. “In the professional kitchen we talk about ‘bringing it up to salt,’ but since salt is also the cheapest ingredient, it’s often overused in other blends. From the start, Paul only used the best ingredients in Magic Seasoning. He spent a lot of time and money sourcing carefully, and made sure only the finest equipment was used at his plant.” Over time, Magic Seasoning grew to include over 60 dried spice choices along with sauces and smoked meats. Although Chef Paul passed away in 2015, his unique flavors endure thanks to the company he started more than four decades ago.

EMERIL’S ESSENCE: Chef Emeril Lagasse had big shoes to fill when he was tapped to succeed Paul Prudhomme at Commander’s Palace in 1982. The 23-year-old Massachusetts native became a sensation at the famed establishment, but left to open his own restaurant just seven-and-a-half years later.

SLAP YA MAMA: A fascinating saint wellknown for his vow of poverty, humble nature and deep connection with all aspects of the natural world — from animals to the Back in 1996, Anthony “TW” Walker couldn’t find a seasoning with an authentic Cajun flavor that didn’t include too much salt for his taste. Gathering his whole family together, they experimented at home in their kitchen until they found a formula that was just right. The customers at his 24-hour convenience store and deli in Ville Platte resoundingly agreed. The new Cajun seasoning was such a big hit, it needed its own special name. TW was already well known for his “World Famous Slap Ya Mama Atomic Potatoes,” so his wife “Mama Jen” insisted he use the name for his seasoning blend. The good son had certainly never slapped his mama Wilda Marie so she happily gave her blessing. From that original seasoning mix, Slap Ya Mama expanded with sauces, dinner mixes and other specialty food products — including a cinnamon-sugar blend dubbed Kiss Ya Mama. For more than two decades now, Slap Ya Mama has delivered authentic Cajun taste to Louisiana and beyond.

CA JUN NINJA

CHEF GONE MAD:

ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT Jason Derouen’s The Cajun Ninja PI-YAHHHHH!! Seasoning Blend is inspired by the Thibodaux native’s love of Cajun food. Get his recipe for standing rib roast at www.rouses.com.

Native New Orleanian Chef Derek Robinson, Jr. was already well-known for his unique take on the foods of his hometown when he took notice of the health issues that plagued so many

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in his community. Determined to make a difference, he set out to develop seasoning blends that would deliver both flavor and wellness. Robinson’s first two products, Salt Free Smoked Garlic & Herb and Salt Free Chicken & Fish, were so successful he soon expanded to include Cajun Nola, an all-purpose seasoning designed for everyday use. Manufactured in the Crescent City, Cajun Nola became the premiere product of Chef Gone Mad, receiving both Cajun and Creole certification. The distinctive cans feature Robinson wearing his wide, trademark grin, knife and fork in hand, ready to deliver an authentic taste of his heritage.

C’EST TOUT: Born from a bumper crop of bell peppers, this unique product is the brainchild of Youngsville native Drew Barra. Chopping up the peppers, he began to experiment with drying them. “If I’ve got peppers, what about the rest of the trinity?” he wondered, referring to the classic seasoning mix of bell pepper, celery and onion found in virtually every Creole and Cajun recipe. Soon, onions and celery followed the peppers into the dryer. Experimenting until he achieved the perfect blend of white and green onions, red and green peppers and celery, Barra also developed a proprietary dehydrating method, ensuring the freshest taste. Suddenly Barra discovered he had a new business on his hands.

Different from typical shake products, C’est Tout’s dried trinity mix is intended to be rehydrated for use. By soaking in warm liquid for two minutes, four tablespoons of C’est Tout can be transformed into a full cup of seasoning. An added bonus comes from using butter, stock, wine or fortified spirits in the rehydrating process, which adds an incredible layer of flavor. Just one jar gives you more than five cups, both a huge timesaver and a delicious alternative to fresh this holiday season.

LOUISIANA PEPPER EXCHANGE: You won’t find Louisiana Pepper Exchange’s products on the spice shelves. The pepper mash used in their product has such a fresh flavor that it’s stocked in the produce department. The founder of this innovative brand, Chris White, is an engineer who cracked the code on how to economically transport fresh pepper mash in large quantities from all over the world. Placing his company a mere 20 yards from the Port of New Orleans allows White to keep up to three million pounds of mash on hand in his 25,000-square-foot facility on Tchoupitoulas Street. If your holiday dinner needs a little kick, Louisiana Pepper Exchange has all the spice you need to make this year memorable without the dangers of handling fresh, hot peppers. From jalapeño and cayenne to chipotle and habanero, you add only the pepper you need by the spoonful. From a spicy cocktail to just the right amount of heat in this year’s oyster dressing, Louisiana Pepper Exchange has got you covered.

SEASONS EATINGS ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT From tried-and-true local Seasoning Blends to new local spicy and savory flavors, you’ll find everything you need to spice up your holiday cooking.

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Brie en croute Brie en croute (aka baked Brie) moves the cheese course firmly into meal territory, taking a round of Brie, layering it with sweet or savory additions, and swaddling the whole package in puff pastry. From there, it’s 20 minutes in the oven at 425ºF to a flaky, golden crust that contains molten Brie swirled with various accoutrements. The trick to really exceptional Brie en croute is balancing the buttery richness of the cheese with the buttery richness of the pastry dough. You’ve got a lot of fat and protein as your base, and I rely on contrasting flavors for balance. Because, let’s be honest, who wants just a few bites of gooey, melted cheese? I want to enjoy the whole thing. For that, I turn to sugar, acid and spice for contrast and complexity. Rouses has three prepared varieties of Brie en croute that cover the full spectrum of harmonized pairings. For those with a sweet tooth, I love the unexpected surprise of caramelized onion jam Brie en croute. Instead of the one-note sugariness of honey, slow-cooked onion breaks down into a savory but caramelized jam that nestles up perfectly with the white button mushroom flavor of Brie. It’s sweet but not cloying, and reminiscent of milder, more buttery French onion soup. On the other end of the spectrum, Terrapin Farms bacon jam introduces smoke and spice, thanks to the addition of jalapeños. This version of Brie en croute ensures every bite delivers salt, fat, acid and heat, making an unexpectedly compulsive eating experience. My favorite, however, is the sour cherry Brie en croute. Again, I’m always leery of dumping a bunch of too-sweet stuff into melty, buttery Brie and flaky, buttery pastry. It’s too rich, too mouth-coating. Here, the addition of sour cherry jam delivers sweetness but also refreshing tartness. Like champagne with your triple crème, the acidity refreshes the palate so you are primed to go back for more. Whichever version appeals to you, do include some crunchy sides for dipping. Crackers, super-crusty bread, breadsticks and fruit/nut crisps are all go-tos. But I also think of this as a fondue and serve lots of fresh, crunchy fruits and veggies. Apples, pears, cherries and pomegranate seeds bathe happily in the sour cherry incarnation, while broccoli, cauliflower and pickled veggies lean in especially well with onion or bacon jam. Happy dipping! 4 4 R O U S E S W I N T E R 20 23

Rockin’ Around the Christmas Brie By Liz Thorpe If I brought a soft, creamy cheese with a white rind to your house this weekend, you’d almost certainly hug me and say delightedly, “You brought Brie!!” And you might be right. But then, if it’s me, you might well be wrong because there are dozens, even hundreds, of Brie-like cheeses out there that are not actually Brie. The technical name for this style is bloomy rind, and over 80% of what’s sold in the U.S. is purchased between Halloween and New Year’s Eve. Forget “fall.” We’re entering Bloomy Rind season.

aturally, you may now be wondering, what makes a cheese a bloomy rind? And, how is that different from Brie? All Brie is bloomy rind cheese, but not all bloomy rind cheeses are Brie. Bloomy rind is a cheesemaking style characterized by several key techniques and results. Bloomy rind cheeses are made very gently so the large, soft curds retain significant amounts of moisture. They are typically formed into relatively small cheeses — anywhere from four ounces to, at most, six pounds, and they are not intended for long periods of aging. Bloomy rind cheeses are sold at a few weeks to a few months of age. Most distinctively, white mold spores (penicillium candidum or penicillium camemberti) are introduced during cheesemaking. These mold spores are oxygen-loving and bloom like microscopic flowers on the exterior of the cheese. Over the course of several weeks that mold forms a thin, soft, white skin (or rind) on the surface of the cheese. This is the reason many people associate the aroma of Brie-ish cheeses with mushrooms — the fungal smells are built into that molded rind! The resulting cheese is soft and creamy, with an edible white rind and relatively mild flavors of butter, cream, salt and mushroom. Over time, the molded rind breaks down the fats and proteins in the cheese, creating a runnier texture and giving off an ammonia scent. Too much time, and the cheese’s interior turns to liquid, while the rind becomes a mottled brown color. Together, these deliver bitter flavor and intensely Windex-y aroma. That’s when the cheese is past its prime and doesn’t taste good. Brie happens to be the poster child for bloomy rind cheeses. Traditionally, Brie was made in northern France in six-ish pound discs — long on diameter and short on

height — and served in pie shaped wedges. That’s still the case today, but Brie doesn’t have to be made in France, nor does it have to made in these large, flat wheels. In fact, most of the Brie sold in the United States is now made here in convenient, eight-ounce rounds sold in their own wooden box. La Bonne Vie is an American-made brand that offers Brie in both wedges and rounds. A French alternative, and one that is beloved by every single person I’ve ever served it to, is Fromager d’Affinois. Translated, it’s the cheese from Affinois, and there are a few special qualities only this cheese possesses. First, the milk undergoes a special filtration prior to cheesemaking which contributes to the most gloriously smooth, spreadable texture you can imagine. It’s like eating room temperature butter. Second, the rind on this cheese is masterful. Many people don’t care for the rind on Brie because it can be chewy, bitter or ammoniated. Not Fromager d’Affinois. The rind is soft, thin and marvelously mild. It allows you to really focus on every bite of whipped, creamy indulgence. While firmer styles of cheese like Jack, Havarti and Cheddar are better known for flavored varieties, the buttery neutrality of Brie is an ideal foil to various additions. You can do this yourself at home by taking a round of Brie, cutting it in half so you separate the top and bottom rind, and layering pesto, herbs, coarsely ground pepper, honey, fig jam or (should you be so lucky as to have this option) freshly shaved truffle. For those of us who aren’t looking for extra work, there are French Bries with flavors already added (like Couronne) or mushrooms (check out Champignon). Another Brie-as-meal option to consider is Brie en croute. See the sidebar for more on this heavenly marriage of Brie, various sweet and savory additions, and the magic of a warm oven. What about Brie-like cheeses that go by other names? Again, they all share that edible, white molded rind and soft, creamy texture, but each cheese brings its own personality to the table. Brie’s earthier-tasting cousin is Camembert. Originally, while Brie was made in big, flat discs, Camembert was made in small, half-pound

It’s always important to eat cheese at room temperature. When served cold, all the complexities and nuances of flavor are stifled and the texture is more likely to be firm — or worse, gummy. But it’s especially essential when enjoying bloomy rind cheeses that you give them at least an hour out of refrigeration. rounds. That delivered a different texture, with Camembert traditionally being denser and springier than sticky, high-moisture Brie. Being smaller, Camembert is more impacted by the edible rind. Both the aromatics (more mushroomy pungency) and the flavor (more broccoli taste) are more intense than Brie. Today, however, Camembert can be made domestically, and when it is it tends to be milder than its French inspiration. Look for La Bonne Vie Camembert and mix up your holiday gatherings with a blind tasting of Brie vs. Camembert! Other favorites of mine (and every other cheese-eating person I’ve encountered) are the triple crème cheeses. Triple crème, or triple cream, is a cream-enriched Brie-type which, when made in France, must by law contain 72% butterfat. La Bonne Vie makes several triple cream Bries in both rounds and wedges, and the French produce several brands, each sold under its own name. Saint André, Excellence and Délice de Bourgogne are a few to look for. With these cheeses you can expect an abundance of cream — in both flavor and texture. Fat tends to mute flavor and, in general, triple cremes are less about the mushroom aromatics of the rind and more about well-salted butter. They are luscious, they don’t run, and that total mouth-coating richness is superb with sparkling wine. The effervescence of champagne or prosecco works like a knife, slicing through the fat, refreshing your palate — and making it that much easier for you to eat more cheese. Similarly, pairings that introduce crunch are great — my go-to is a fruit-and-nut-laced crisp for textural contrast and little bites of sweetened fruit. W W W. R O U S E S . C O M 4 5

MIX & MATCH

SAVE

10% on 4 or more bottles.

Photo by Romney Caruso While the triple crème is a French-invented adaptation of a bloomy rind, you can trust the Americans to introduce some really novel and delicious variations to this style. Nearly all bloomy rinds are made of cow milk, but this style of cheesemaking doesn’t require cow milk. One of the pioneering makers of artisan cheese in America, a woman named Mary Keehn out of California, invented her signature recipe, Humboldt Fog, in the 1990s. Her farm, Cypress Grove, continues to produce this goat milk bloomy rind today. The wheel looks more like a layer cake than like a cheese. The rind does break down the cheese’s outer layer, creating a gooey texture, but the interior stays flaky and fresh, with a clean, lemony flavor and tangy finish that marries beautifully with the fungaltasting rind. Perhaps even better for special gatherings and celebrations is Humboldt Fog’s cousin, Truffle Tremor. Here, that moist, crumbly interior is heavily laced with grated black truffle. Talk about earthy. American artisan cheeses are often more expensive than their mass-produced and imported counterparts. That’s due to the extremely labor-intensive work of making and aging them. One of my top five favorite cheeses in the world falls into this camp, and there’s no better time to splurge on

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Jasper Hill Harbison than now. Each small wheel of cheese is painstakingly bound in the cambium (still growing, under the visible bark) layer of a spruce tree. These strips of wood are harvested on the farm’s property and imbue each wheel of cheese with the woodsy complexity of a freshly cut Christmas tree. The cheese can be served whole, the white rind carefully cut away and the pudding-like interior served with a spoon. It’s always important to eat cheese at room temperature. When served cold, all the complexities and nuances of flavor are stifled and the texture is more likely to be firm — or worse, gummy. But it’s especially essential when enjoying bloomy rind cheeses that you give them at least an hour out of refrigeration. This style of cheese is singularly known for its kinship to butter and, often, for its subtle flavors. If the cheese is cold, you’re denying yourself the pleasure of sharing this lusciousness with the people you love.

Applies to bottles with prices ending in .00

Fizz the Season By David W. Brown Regardless of whether you just got married or just won the Indianapolis 500, you celebrate exactly the same way: with a bottle of champagne. In recent years, however, sparkling wines of all type have transcended their association with formal occasions and milestone events. Today, they are everyday affairs — and with good reason. You can find sparkling wines at every price point, and with great variety, making them accessible and enjoyable for anyone, anytime.

ut which are shoppers most eager to try? To find out, I asked Julie Joy, the Director of Beer, Wine and Spirits for Rouses Markets. She told me that, right now, the hottest sparklers are not from France, but rather, from Italy. “Prosecco is the big trend right now,” she said, “And that is not going away.” She credits its surge in popularity to its affordability — especially compared to its French counterpart, Champagne. Winemaking in Europe is a highly regulated industry. In Champagne, you can only make sparkling wine a certain way — “méthode traditionnelle,” or the “traditional method” — a labor-intensive process that uses certain grapes, in certain barrels, with certain aging practices. Every Champagne also gets its “secondary fermentation” — the step that gives it those glorious bubbles — in the bottle. With such refinement comes a higher price point. “Champagnes come from a world of tradition and hand-holding,” said Julie. But Prosecco, she continued, is not treated like that at all. “It’s more about the grapes than the method in which it’s created.” Like Champagne, Prosecco is named for the region in which it is made. Rather than using the traditional method, Prosecco’s secondary fermentation occurs in large stainless steel tanks, and the wine is then bottled. At your local Rouses Markets, you can find a bottle of Dacastello Prosecco at the $10 price point. “We sell a ton of it,” said Julie. “It’s the perfect extra dry sparkling wine. You can pair it with food, or just open a bottle — it really holds up on its own. And it’s the perfect price.” Rouses even has a buy-more-save-more program, where you can mix and match all kinds of wines and spirits. If you are taking advantage of that, the price comes down even further, to $9. “It is great to just keep in your fridge to have ready when friends come over. It’s just a super easygoing wine.”

Rouses also carries Dacastello in rosé — the pink sparking line. But don’t get confused about what the color means. “A lot of people think the rosé is going to be sweet, but it’s not. It is the same type of extra dry sparkling wine, but is a little bit fruitier, with strawberry notes on the palate. It is really a lot of fun.” She also recommends a Prosecco called Social Bird. “That one has just a little bit more body to it,” she said, and comes in at about $12. “I have to admit that I came to the label because it reminds me of the best wine scenario: having sparkly with friends. You’re a social bird and you’re hanging out with your people.” California has also seen an uptick in its sparkling wine popularity. Brands like Chandon Napa and Gloria Ferrer are known quantities, but there’s plenty of room for exploration, says Julie. “When it comes to sparkling wines from California, I will give anything a try just to see what it’s like. I always say that a mediocre sparkling is better than a semi-decent chardonnay.” (Not because chardonnay is not its own treat, but sparkling wines are such a safe bet.) “The flaws in sparkling are not as easy to spot. It’s almost never going to offend a drinker.” Julie encourages store guests to be adventurous in the wine section. There’s something for everybody. All those sparkling wines on the shelf can be intimidating, but they don’t have to be. You should no more worry in the wine section than you do when browsing the two-liter bottles of Coke. It’s just a drink. The best wine is the one you like. Whether it’s the affordable yet authentic Prosecco, the traditional and luxurious Champagne, or the familiar bottles from California, there’s a sparkling wine for every occasion and every pocket. Perhaps the best part of the rise in sparkling wine? Breakfast! Sure, you pull a bottle of Prosecco from the fridge at seven in the morning and pour a glass, and people might think something is off. But add a splash of orange juice, and you’re just having a mimosa! Perfectly normal way to start an effervescent day. And really, that is what makes sparklers so special. Why wait for a special occasion, when you can create one yourself? W W W. R O U S E S . C O M 4 7

It’s A Wine-derful Life By David W. Brown One night, I grabbed drinks with a friend who judges major wine competitions in Europe. In passing, I commented that wine ratings were absurd, and that no one could seriously tell the difference between a 97-point and a 98-point wine. She looked at me aghast, as though I had uttered some unspeakable heresy. Of course she could tell the difference between the two, she said, and rattled off a half-dozen differences between them. I never questioned the practice again.

f you walk in unprepared, the wine section at your local Rouses Market can seem like a mysterious labyrinth. What you need to know is that the mystery is the best part. When you pull a cork from a bottle, you’re drinking a lot more than a mere beverage. Wine is perhaps the most intimately human product on store shelves. When you take a sip, you are drinking the decades and sometimes centuries of agriculture that enriched the vineyard’s soil; you are honoring the generations of farmers who worked tirelessly to know precisely the best grape variety to grow in their specific little patch of ground; and you are acknowledging the hard-won experience of winemakers who had to figure out the best way to fully express the uniqueness of their vineyard — its “terroir” — and house style as a winedrinking experience. There’s more. You’re drinking that year’s rain and sunlight and wind and frost. You’re even drinking the bureaucracy of the region: A wine from Champagne and one from the Loire Valley are made very differently, and with different grapes — and a lot of French lawyers and voters keep it that way. You are drinking what different places value as a culture. In other words, when you buy a bottle of wine, it’s not just something to drink with dinner. You’re buying the cheapest international vacation you’ve ever taken, and you’re flying first class. When spending your hard-earned cash, though, sometimes you don’t want a risky proposition. You want a sure thing. Enter the wine rating: highlighted on Rouses shelves, or emblazoned on wine labels.

“It’s a great way for customers to narrow down the selection of what they are looking at, to what they may or may not want to invest in,” says Julie Joy, the Director of Beer, Wine, and Spirits for Rouses Markets. When looking at a bottle, she continued, “a 90 to 95 would be considered outstanding — more complex in character, and terrific to drink. A 96 to 100 — which you don’t see very often — would be extraordinary.” There’s even a little bit of humor to be found. The prolific wine critic and writer Robert Parker famously rated wines on a scale from 50 to 100. A liquid gets 50 points just for being wine. Parker had perhaps the most influential career of any wine critic ever, and was most responsible for popularizing the 100-point scale in the 1980s. He retired four years ago, but his publication, Wine Advocate,

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continues to review wines to his standards. Not all ratings are equal — a Wine Advocate or Wine Spectator 98-point rating are considered more prestigious simply because of their publications’ longevity, industry influence, independence and the expertise of the panelists rating the wines. But that doesn’t mean other wine ratings are less important. Different publications and panels prioritize different wine qualities. Parker tended to like bold, fruit-forward, high-alcohol wines. (And, given his influence, winemakers started making…bold, fruit-forward, high-alcohol wines!) Wine Enthusiast, conversely, prioritizes regionality in wine. They might judge a Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon not only against global wines of the same variety, but also against others in the valley. “Over time, you can really start to learn about the tastes of different publications, and buy according to their evaluations,” says Joy. If your favorite wine ever gets a 99 from celebrated critics Jancis Robinson or James Suckling, then you know to be on the lookout for other wines that get high ratings from them. Rouses Markets locations participating in the Buy Four, Save More program feature several wines rated 90 points or higher at prices that just about anyone can reach. “A lot of them are between $10 and $15,” Joy says. “They’re really affordable, and considered very good by some pretty tough critics.” The wine department at Rouses Markets doesn’t just accept a rating at face value, either. “We really look out for them, and we taste all of them. We want to make sure that we can stand behind it. We’re really proud of the wines that we feature,” she says. Ratings are also important for wine drinkers who might want to expand their palates and see what all the fuss is about. “I was once having wine with my niece when we were celebrating her birthday,” says Joy. “She was just out of college. After dinner I ordered a nice pinot noir. She had a glass, and said, ‘Ohh, that’s really good.’ And I laughed and told her yes — because it’s real wine!” There is a meaningful difference between boxed wine and the bottles that score ratings. Each has their place, of course, as any poor college student can tell you. “An actual, cared-for wine from start to finish is going to be a completely different experience than the mass-produced stuff, and I think that’s what a lot of people don’t get when they’re looking at prices. Do you want to experience wine, or do you just want to drink wine? I find a lot of people really like the whole discovery aspect of wine, and the food pairing aspect, and they get a fuller experience.” Among the members of the “90-plus club” that Joy has had lately that really impressed was a Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon called Method. “Napa is almost untouchable these days for under $40,” she said. “We have it at $25. It might be the higher end for some, but a Napa cab is usually where you can’t go wrong. If you’re looking for something to really change your outlook on wine, they’re the way to go.” It scored 91 in Wine Enthusiast.

When you buy a bottle of wine, it’s not just something to drink with dinner. You’re buying the cheapest international vacation you’ve ever taken, and you’re flying first class. Joy says that drinkers who want to look abroad for something special should check out a Spanish wine that garnered 93 points from James Suckling. La Purísima is a red blend of different grape varieties, and runs $10 as well. “There are so many times when I’m in the store that I just want to pull bottles from the shelf and tell people browsing to try this and try this and try this and try this!” she says with a laugh. With or without ratings as your guide, I encourage you to take a chance when choosing bottles. To find one wine and stick with it for the rest of your life would be like a toddler insisting on chicken tenders on the menu, and then going another 70 years only eating chicken tenders. After all, you already know you like chicken tenders — why would you want to try steak? Be bold and grab a bottle. The worstcase scenario is you learn that you prefer Riesling from the Mosel region of Germany more than Riesling from Alsace in France. And you can tell your people that while you’re slightly tipsy and really still having a pretty good time. One way to thrust yourself into the adventurous oenological life is by throwing a party and rating them yourself. It doesn’t have to be an elaborate affair. You and a couple friends each, separately, buy a bottle of wine. You show up to the party with your bottle either in a tight paper bag or wrapped in aluminum foil, so that no one can see the label. Everyone opens their bottles and pours. Keep track of which wine is in which glass! This is called a “blind tasting” — you’re not being thrown off by the cute illustrations on the labels or the variety of grape or country of origin. You’re drinking a wine and saying, “I like this” — or maybe you don’t. You can rate it on a 1-10 scale. (Because, except for a few experts who definitely do — as I learned the hard way! — nobody knows the difference between a 97-point and a 98-point wine.) After the tasting, unwrap the bottles and meet your new favorite wines. In the end, wines are as expansive and nuanced as the ratings that attempt to define them. Whether you’re guided by the tough panels for Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator, or you’re going it alone and throwing your first blind tasting, remember that every bottle is a journey to somewhere new — a taste of a place you may never visit, and a toast to the artisans who harness the sun and the soil to bring you there. Ratings are a useful compass, but we invented compasses to explore. Do it enough, and you might find that the difference between a 97- and 98-point wine isn’t in the number, but in the experience — complex, enriching and delightfully human.

“We also have one people really can’t seem to get enough of, called Fly By,” she said. It is a cabernet sauvignon from northern California with an unbeatable price. “It’s $10, and got 90 points from Wine Enthusiast.” For those who prefer white wine, the Fly By chardonnay also earned 90 points.

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Jingle Bell Mock By David W. Brown “I used to be anti-mocktail,” said Julie Joy, the Director of Beer, Wine and Spirits for Rouses Markets. “Just drink juice or something, right?” She’s not the only person who felt that way. Going into our conversation, I held the same view. Mocktails just always seemed like a lesser alternative to the real thing, or the consolation prize for the designated driver. The more Julie and I talked, however, the more I came to realize that I was mistaken. Mocktails are not merely a trend, but rather, a burgeoning culinary art form in their own right.

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ulie’s shift in perspective occurred while traveling. She was in Chicago to see family and, while at dinner, a relative who was recovering from surgery ordered a mocktail. Julie tried it, and was astonished to find that it was really good. Later, while visiting Connecticut, a chance mocktail served at lunch sealed the deal. “I was like: Darn — I’ve really been wrong about this!” she said, laughing. She came to see mocktails the way all spirits are best enjoyed: as a communal activity.

“Even if they can’t — or don’t want to — drink, people still want to feel like they’re celebrating, or part of the moment,” she said. Which makes a lot of sense. Whether raising a glass in a toast, clinking it with others, or enjoying that first sip, drinking can be a surprisingly complex social ritual. Mocktails allow for greater inclusion in the tradition, and facilitate a sense of belonging and participation that one might otherwise miss out on. A common misconception about mocktails is that they’re merely cocktails without the booze. “It’s a new creature,” Julie explained, with their own flavor profiles, mouthfeel, sweetness and acidity. As such, they need not be interpreted by how “real” they taste, and bartenders aren’t simply duplicating the martini. Instead, they’re creating something entirely different. That said, the beauty of mocktails is that mimicry is

indeed possible through specially crafted non-alcoholic spirits. And all those mixers on the shelves at Rouses Markets are just waiting for something new. A margarita without tequila isn’t a loss. Rather, it is an invitation for a new flavor to step forward. For example, Rouses carries a line of non-alcoholic spirits called Seedlip. For an easy mocktail, Julie recommends pouring into a shaker two ounces of Seedlip Grove 42, one ounce of agave syrup and a half-ounce of fresh lime juice. Shake and pour for a perfect zero-proof margarita. Indeed, the variety of mocktails is astonishing, from non-alcoholic espresso martinis to pineapple jalapeño margs for the whole family. The goal isn’t removing the alcohol; it’s about adding creativity. “A really great bartender can do magic,” Julie said. Smoothies and specialty coffees were once considered adventurous. Mocktails exist in that same continuum, representing an elevation of non-alcoholic beverages into their own culinary genre.

Young people especially seem to have taken the notion of exquisitely prepared non-alcoholic beverages and run with it. But it’s about more than simply cutting back on alcohol due to health concerns, or reducing calorie intake, or restrictive diets. “It’s about demanding a rich experience,” said Julie. Unlike the “virgin” drinks of yore, today’s mocktails are not about eliminating an ingredient or experience, but rather, expanding the palate. Moreover, the culinary artistry that goes into creating a mocktail is gaining respect. Just as a chef meticulously pairs flavors, textures and ingredients to create a dish, so does the mixologist in crafting a mocktail. It’s not just about tossing a few ingredients together; it’s about understanding flavor profiles, aromas and even the science behind it. The use

of botanicals, spices and exotic fruits in mocktails is introducing consumers to a whole new variety of flavors, and new food pairings. Ultimately, the rise of mocktails signals a broader societal shift. Fast vanishing are the days when alcohol was the staple of social gatherings. The mocktail mania of today reflects, in its own way, a more adventurous community that values choice and personal preferences. Mocktails invite us to reconsider our definitions of celebration and indulgence. As Julie put it: “When you get down to it, you want your houseguests who don’t drink to still be able to partake. When you have a couple of mocktail recipes available, you give them an alternative, where they felt like they are still celebrating.” In a culture that perhaps a little too often equates celebration with inebriation, it’s a refreshing perspective — no alcohol required.

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Shalom, Y’all By Michael W. Twitty Latkes are the quintessential Hanukkah staple. Fried potato “pancakes,” cooked in oil to commemorate the miracle of eight days of oil for the Temple menorah when only a one-day supply could be mustered, latkes have actually evolved through the centuries. I know one thing: The Maccabees, the Jewish resistance against the Hellenistic Greeks and those Jews who wanted to assimilate, never ate potato latkes (levivot in Hebrew.) It’s highly unlikely they feasted with latkes or levivot of any sort. Latkes have had centuries of costume changes, from ricotta pancakes in Italy to buckwheat blini in Eastern Europe, to the potato pancake that emerged in the late 18th century, fried to a golden crisp when grated with onions and dropped in hot goose fat.

KOSHERSOUL ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT Michael Twitty's latest book, Koshersoul: The Food and Faith Journey of an African American Jew, won the Jewish National Council’s National Jewish Book Award for the 2022 book of the year. 5 4 R O U S E S W I N T E R 20 23

t’s really important that people understand that many dishes and traditions that we can’t imagine not going back to antiquity are actually fairly recent in the scale of human time. Frederick the Great encouraged the growth of potatoes when the last ravages of what we now know as the Little Ice Age threatened the crops of Prussia and beyond. Fearing famine would ensue, Frederick — known for being anti-superstition — did not fear the potato, which many saw as poisonous owing to its membership in the nightshade family. He grew the potatoes under guard in his royal gardens, served them to guests and turned a blind eye to those who stole the tubers for seed — peasants hoping to get a mouthful of this new royal delicacy.

Among Eastern European Jews, much like the Irish, the potato caused an uptick in population growth. It was easy to grow in cool climates, having emerged from the Andes region of South America under the care of the Incas and their neighbors. It was versatile, filling and tasty. The population growth also led to the immigration patterns that would eventually bring thousands of Irish and Ashkenazi Jews to the United States and New Orleans itself. In my book Koshersoul, I trace the melding of African and Jewish diasporas in the Americas — the American South — including but not limited to food. Food plays an enormous role in the celebration of identity and healing of community in both cultures; when those cultures come together, even more so. Years ago I had the blessing of meeting Mildred Covert, co-author with Sylvia Gerson of three beloved kosher Louisiana cookbooks. Meeting her and devouring her work, and being guided by my friend, Dr. Marcie Cohen Ferris, I sought out more Southern Jewish recipes, often crafted by African American women working for or adjacent to Ashkenazi Jewish women in the South, and recipes by African American Jews searching to demonstrate our culinary improvisation and resilience through our food. What’s so cool about these Louisiana latkes is that they use the trinity, the pope (I do get the irony), a bit of spice and a deep fry to bring a time-honored dish and tradition into the orbit of Creole cooking and other traditions that have serious roots in the African tradition. In my many travels in West Africa these same staple ingredients — onion, bell pepper, scallion, garlic and hot pepper, along with ginger and turmeric — find their way into most of the signature dishes of the region. Add to that several deep-fried fritters, both sweet and savory, that have been near and dear to many African-influenced traditions including that of Louisiana, and you might just call these latkes Hanukkah calas! They would be welcome in Jamaica, Brazil, Haiti or any bustling marketplace in Nigeria, Ghana or Senegal!

There is room for innovation, variety and improvisation with this treat from the spices you use to the fat you fry them in. Yet, as you prepare them, think about the incredible merger of Black and Eastern European Jewish foodways and the heroic stories of the people who made these Louisiana latkes possible. Add your own spin and pass it down, L’dor v’dor, generation to generation.

MICHAEL TWITTY’S LOUISIANA LATKES Makes about 1 dozen

WHAT YOU WILL NEED: 2 cups peeled and shredded Yukon gold or russet potatoes 1 tablespoon grated onion 2 tablespoons green bell pepper 1 tablespoon chopped celery 2 tablespoons chopped green onion 1 small garlic clove, minced 1 pinch dried thyme ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper or red pepper flakes 3 eggs, beaten 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour, matzo meal or potato starch 1½ teaspoons salt ½ cup peanut, canola, or vegetable oil for frying Creole seasoning, to taste Garnishes of your choice HOW TO PREP: Wring the shredded potato in a cheesecloth; repeat several times to extract as much moisture as you can. In a medium bowl, stir all the ingredients except the oil together. In a large, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat, heat the oil until hot (most recipes call for between 350°F and 375°F degrees). Take a heaping 1½ tablespoons of the potato mixture for each latke; form into balls and place them in the hot oil, pressing down on them to form ¼- to ½-inch thick patties. Brown on one side, turn, and brown on the other. Carefully remove from pan and place latkes on paper towels to drain. Serve with spiced applesauce and or chili-garlic sauce, or another garnish of your choice.

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Transfer the potatoes to a clean cloth and wring out the moisture over the sink. Pat the shredded potatoes dry with a paper towel to remove remaining moisture.

WHY IS BRISKET SERVED DURING HANUKKAH? ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT The tradition of serving brisket for holiday celebrations, such as

Hanukkah, Rosh Hashanah, Passover and Shabbat, likely stems from historical and practical reasons. Brisket comes from the breast of the cow, located in the front, which makes it kosher. And it requires slow cooking, making it convenient for preparing in advance. Since Hanukkah is an eight-day festival, having a dish that can be cooked in larger quantities and reheated throughout the holiday is convenient for observant Jewish families.

HOW TO BRAISE BRISKET Brisket takes more time to cook than other tough cuts because of its greater amount of collagen. Braising — a cooking method that starts with pan-searing followed by slow-cooking in liquid — will cut down on the cooking time and make the brisket tender. 1.

Brown the meat in a Dutch oven, then set it aside. 2. Cook chopped garlic and onions until softened and browned. 3. Return the brisket to the pot, and add potatoes and carrots and enough liquid (stock, water, wine or beer) to just cover the meat. 4. Place it in the oven and braise it, covered, at 350°F. Allow approximately 40 minutes of cooking time per pound of brisket. 5. Monitor the internal temperature of the brisket using a meat thermometer; aim for an internal temperature of 190°F to 200°F.

HOW TO SHRED POTATOES FOR LATKES 1.

Use a box grater or mandoline slicer with grating blades set over a plate. Use the largest holes to shred the potatoes. 2. Work in batches, shredding one potato at a time for best results. Submerge freshly grated potatoes in cold water with a few drops of lemon to prevent browning (oxidation) while working on the remaining potatoes. 3. Strain the grated potatoes in a colander. W W W. R O U S E S . C O M 5 5

Photo by Romney Caruso

Hanukkah starts at sundown on Thursday, December 7, and ends the evening of Friday, December 15 (eight nights). 5 6 R O U S E S W I N T E R 20 23

CAJUN LATKES Makes 12 to 16 latkes

WHAT YOU WILL NEED: 3 cups peeled and shredded Yukon gold or russet potatoes ½ cup Trinity (diced bell pepper, onion and celery) 2 tablespoons chopped green onion 3 garlic cloves, minced 1 pinch dried thyme ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper 3 eggs, beaten ¼ cup all-purpose flour, matzo meal or potato starch 1½ teaspoons kosher salt

½ cup peanut, canola, or vegetable oil for frying Creole seasoning Garnishes of your choice

Use a medium-size disher scoop (also called an ice cream scoop) to scoop about 3 ounces of potato mixture at a time into the hot oil, pressing down on each one to form ¼- to ½-inch thick patties. Fry the latkes in HOW TO PREP: batches, adding more oil as needed and Preheat the oven to 350°F. turning over once. When the latkes are golden brown on both sides, transfer to the Line a large sheet pan with foil. Line another prepared paper towel-lined baking sheet. baking sheet or platter with paper towels.

In a medium bowl, stir all the ingredients except the oil together. In a large, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat, heat the oil until hot. (Drop a shred of potato in hot oil; if it starts to brown, then you know the oil is ready.)

Transfer latkes to the sheet pan, place in preheated oven, and bake for 6 to 7 minutes to finish. Serve with sour cream, applesauce or hot sauce, or another garnish of your choice.

“Michael’s recipe is great — I love the addition of bell pepper, onion, celery and Cajun seasoning. We supersized his version so everyone could have one big latke, and we made ours a little spicier, because that’s just how we cook. You can use Crystal Farms Simply Potatoes Shredded Hash Browns, which are sold fresh in our refrigerated section (they taste like homemade) or shred your own. Because our latkes are larger, we also used a combination of flash-frying and baking to ensure that the latkes are a beautiful lightgolden color on the outside and fully cooked on the inside.” – Mickey Bordelon, Rouses Markets

HANUKKAH ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT During Hanukkah, Jews enjoy a variety of traditional foods and dishes, often cooked with oil to commemorate the miracle of the oil in the Temple. Some common foods associated with Hanukkah include latkes (potato pancakes), which are grated potatoes mixed with onions, eggs, flour and seasoning, then fried in oil until crispy, and served with applesauce or sour cream; and sufganiyot, which are deep-fried doughnuts filled with jelly or custard and dusted with powdered sugar. Sufganiyot are a sweet treat symbolizing the miracle of the oil.

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we all bring unique flavor to the bowl

mms.com

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leave the fuss to us! ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT Our sweet potato casserole is our most popular holiday casserole. It’s topped with a cinnamon oat crumble. And of course, there’s our green bean casserole, which is a traditional green bean casserole topped with fried onions. We have Spinach Madeline topped with shredded mozzarella (pepper jack cheese folded into the mix is what gives it that spice, compared to typical creamed spinach). We also offer traditional corn pudding, carrot soufflé, butternut squash with cranberries, and roasted Brussels sprouts. 6 0 R O U S E S W I N T E R 20 23

SWEET POTATO CASSEROLE Makes 8 Servings Cornflakes give this casserole its great crunchy topping.

WHAT YOU WILL NEED: 6 large sweet potatoes (about 4 pounds), scrubbed ½ cup unsalted butter (1 stick), at room temperature, plus more for greasing the pan 2 large eggs, at room temperature 1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk ¼ cup granulated sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon salt FOR THE TOPPING 1 cup roughly chopped pecans 1 cup lightly crushed Kellogg’s Corn Flakes ½ cup packed dark brown sugar ¼ cup unsalted butter (½ stick), melted 2 cups mini marshmallows, plus more to taste HOW TO PREP: Heat oven to 350°F. Grease a 9” x 13” baking dish with butter and line a baking sheet with aluminum foil. Pierce the sweet potatoes all over with a fork and place on the baking sheet. Place in preheated oven and bake until soft, approximately 1 hour. Allow them to cool. Leave oven set at 350°F. Once the sweet potatoes are cool enough to handle, peel them using a knife. Place the flesh in a large bowl (or in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment) and mash using a potato masher or fork. Add ½ cup of butter, eggs, condensed milk, granulated sugar, vanilla, cinnamon and salt to the bowl. Combine thoroughly with a hand mixer or a stand mixer on medium speed. Transfer the mixture to the prepared baking dish and smooth out the top using a spatula. Prepare the topping: In a medium bowl, mix together the pecans, corn flakes, brown sugar and butter until well combined. Evenly spoon the topping over the sweet potatoes.

Photo by Romney Caruso

Place the casserole in the preheated oven and bake until slightly browned, around 35 minutes. Remove from the oven and layer the marshmallows evenly on top. Return to the oven and bake until the marshmallows are lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Allow it to sit for 5 minutes before serving.

LOBSTER MAC & CHEESE Serves 6 to 8 Each 1½-pound lobster yields about 6 ounces of meat. If you are using lobster tails, you will need 4 to get about 12 ounces of meat. If you are using Louisiana crawfish tails, you need a 12-ounce package.

WHAT YOU WILL NEED: Kosher salt and black pepper, to taste 2 1½-pound lobsters or 1 12-ounce package frozen Louisiana crawfish tails, defrosted 2 tablespoons unsalted butter ½ cup ricotta cheese ½ cup mascarpone cheese 2 cups whole milk Pinch cayenne pepper Pinch freshly grated nutmeg 1 pound sharp cheddar cheese, grated ½ pound elbow pasta, uncooked HOW TO PREP: Fill a large pot with salted water and bring it to a boil over high heat. Add the lobster and cover the pot. Cook for 8 to 10 minutes until the lobster turns bright red. To check for doneness, gently pull an antenna; if it comes off easily, the lobster is done. Remove the lobster from the water and allow it to cool in a bowl. Meanwhile, heat oven to 375°F, with a rack in the upper third of the oven. Grease a 9” x 13” baking pan with a tablespoon of butter. In a blender, combine ricotta cheese, mascarpone cheese, milk, cayenne, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Blend until smooth. Transfer the sauce to a large bowl, add grated cheese and uncooked pasta, and stir well to combine. Pour the mixture into the prepared pan, cover tightly with foil, and bake for 30 minutes. While the pasta is baking, crack the lobster claws and tail over a bowl to remove the meat, preserving any liquid that comes out. Roughly chop the meat.

After the initial 30 minutes of baking, uncover the pan, gently stir in the lobster meat (or crawfish tails), and add up to 2 tablespoons of the reserved lobster juices (this adds flavor). Dot the top with the remaining tablespoon of butter. Bake, uncovered, for an additional 15 minutes until the top is browned. Allow the dish to cool for 15 to 20 minutes before serving.

BEEF TENDERLOIN Serves 8 to 10

WHAT YOU WILL NEED: 1 (4-pound) beef tenderloin, trimmed and tied 1 tablespoon kosher salt, more to taste 1 teaspoon black pepper, more to taste 1 teaspoon chopped fresh parsley 1 sprig fresh thyme, stemmed, leaves chopped (discard stem) 1 stick (8 tablespoons) butter 3 garlic cloves, minced HOW TO PREP: Season the tenderloin all over with the salt, pepper, parsley and thyme. Cover the meat and refrigerate for at least two hours and preferably overnight. Let it come to room temperature for 1 hour before roasting. Preheat oven to 450°F. In a large, ovenproof skillet over high heat, heat 4 tablespoons of butter. Add the meat and thoroughly brown all over, 4 to 5 minutes per side. Dot the top of the meat with the remaining butter and garlic. Place the skillet on the oven’s middle rack, and roast until an instant-read thermometer shows 120°F (for rare), around 10 to 12 minutes. Let the meat rest for 10 minutes before carving. W W W. R O U S E S . C O M

Marcelle Bienvenu's

MAMA’S STUFFED PORK ROAST

Makes 12 to 14 servings

WHAT YOU WILL NEED: One 10- to 12-pound fresh ham shank 1 large onion, finely chopped 1 large green bell pepper, seeded and finely chopped 10 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 3 teaspoons salt 3 teaspoons cayenne pepper 1 teaspoon black pepper Vegetable oil 2 cups water (or more as needed) HOW TO PREP: Preheat the oven to 450°F. Set the ham shank on a large cutting board or platter. Combine the onion, bell pepper, garlic, salt, cayenne and black pepper in a small bowl and mix well. With a sharp boning knife, make several deep slits in the roast spaced several inches apart. Using your index finger, stuff the seasoning mixture into the slits, packing it in firmly. Season the outside of the roast generously with more salt and cayenne pepper. Rub the roast lightly with vegetable oil. Place the roast in a heavy roasting pan and put it in the preheated oven. When the bottom of the pan begins to sizzle, carefully add the water. Bake the roast until it browns evenly, 30 to 45 minutes. More water can be added if the pan becomes too dry. This will mix with the roast drippings and make a dark gravy that can be used now for basting the roast, then later to pour over steamed rice. When the roast is well-browned, reduce the heat to 350°F, cover it, and cook until the juices run clear and the roast is tender, 3 to 4 hours. Remove from oven and cool slightly before carving. Marcelle Bienvenu's

DRESSED-UP RICE

Makes 8 to 10 servings The gravy from the roast pan is also a treasure, and usually there is a cup or two that can be poured into jars to store in the fridge or the freezer for later use.

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WHAT YOU WILL NEED: 4 cups cooked rice 2 ribs celery, chopped 1 cup chopped cooked bacon 1 cup sliced mushrooms ½ cup chopped red bell pepper ½ cup chopped green bell pepper ¼ cup chopped green onions 1 cup pork gravy HOW TO PREP: Combine all ingredients but the pork gravy in a large heavy pot over a low heat. Warm and gently stir to mix. Add the pork gravy, a little at a time, until everything is well moistened. Adjust seasoning, if necessary, with salt and cayenne pepper. Rouse Family Recipe

HWY. 1 STUFFED MIRLITONS

Serves 12

WHAT YOU WILL NEED: 6 fresh mirlitons 1 tablespoon Rouses Extra Virgin olive oil 1 medium-sized onion, peeled and chopped 1 rib celery, chopped 1 bay leaf 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme Rouses salt and black pepper, to taste Rouses Cajun seasonings, to taste 3/4 pound medium-sized wild-caught Gulf shrimp, peeled and deveined 3/4 pound Louisiana crawfish tails 3/4 pound lump Gulf crabmeat Italian Seasoned Breadcrumbs, for topping HOW TO PREP: Preheat oven to 350°F. In a heavy black iron pot, bring about 2 inches of salted water to a boil. Drop whole mirlitons in water, cover pot, and reduce heat. Simmer until mirlitons are tender, about 45 minutes. Remove from pot and set aside to cool. Cut mirlitons in half, lengthwise, and remove the seeds. Scoop out the flesh, keeping the shell intact. Rough chop the flesh and set aside. In a large skillet over medium heat, warm one tablespoon of Rouses olive oil. Add onions, mirliton flesh, bay leaf, and thyme and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add shrimp, and cook until the shrimp are just pink. Remove from

Christmas Roast My maternal grandfather, “Pop-Pete,” was a sugarcane farmer who also maintained a full-fledged farm stocked with pigs, cows, ducks and chickens. A vegetable garden yielded tomatoes, corn, beans, cabbage, beets, eggplant and potatoes. I loved nothing better than spending Sundays there, when the meal usually featured a perfectly baked chicken and rice dressing that sometimes had the addition of bits of smothered eggplant. Sometimes there was corn pudding or green beans smothered with ham or bacon. Dessert was pecan pie or creamy bread pudding. But the real prize that was usually offered for festive occasions was the fresh ham, shank end. When Pop-Pete hosted his annual boucherie, sometimes three pigs were slaughtered so that friends, neighbors and the farm workers could have a stash to take home, but it was the fresh ham shank that he always set aside for a special family event. This is the cut that usually is used for bone-in hams.

- Marcelle Bienvenu

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heat, and fold in crabmeat and crawfish tails. Remove bay leaf and season with salt, pepper and Cajun seasonings. Preheat oven to 350°F. Place mirliton shells in a roasting pan, flesh side up. Spoon vegetable mixture into the shells, and top with a light coating of breadcrumbs. Bake until the breadcrumbs are lightly browned, about 30 minutes. Rouse Family Recipe

MRS. ROUSE’S COCOONS Makes 2 dozen These cookies were so popular with the family that Mrs. Rouse would have to put some in a tin and hide it, to guarantee that the Cocoons would be part of a sweets platter on Christmas Day.

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WHAT YOU WILL NEED: 2 sticks butter 4 tablespoons powdered sugar 2 cups flour 1-1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon vanilla 1 cup finely chopped pecans

d r e s si n g

HOW TO PREP: Cream butter and powdered sugar. Sift together flour, baking powder and salt. Gradually add flour mixture to creamed butter. Add vanilla and nuts. Chill mixture for 2 hours. Roll dough into crescent shapes and place on ungreased cookie sheets. Bake at 300°F for 25 minutes. Cool, then roll in powdered sugar.

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Rouse Family Recipe

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MR. ANTHONY ROUSE’S DOWN HOME OYSTER DRESSING

Serves 8-10

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WHAT YOU WILL NEED: 2 cups cooked long-grain rice, covered and kept warm 1 pound lean ground beef ½ pound ground pork 1 16-ounce container Rouses Fresh Cut Creole Seasoning Blend, or 1 large onion and 2 large green bell peppers, finely chopped 2 tablespoons Cajun seasoning mix 1 tablespoon dried basil 1 tablespoon granulated garlic

½ tablespoon Old Bay Seasoning 1½ quarts Louisiana oysters, cut in half if large 1 bunch green onions, white and green parts, finely chopped 1 tablespoon Kitchen Bouquet HOW TO PREP: Cook rice and keep warm, covered. In a large, heavy pot over mediumhigh heat, brown beef and pork. Add Guidry’s Seasoning Blend (or onions and bell peppers). Mix well and cook until onions are translucent. Add Cajun seasoning, basil, garlic and Old Bay, and mix well. Add oysters. Mix in green onions and Kitchen Bouquet. Remove from heat and mix in the rice. Serve. Rouse Family Recipe

SUE ROUSE’S PEANUT BUTTER FUDGE Makes about 3 pounds

WHAT YOU WILL NEED: 3 cups sugar ²⁄₃⅔ cup evaporated milk 2 tablespoons light corn syrup 1 tablespoon butter 1 (7-ounce) jar marshmallow cream 1 (12-ounce) jar smooth peanut butter HOW TO PREP: Line a 9” x 13” pan with foil, letting ends hang over by 3 inches, and butter it. Set aside. In a medium saucepan, mix sugar, evaporated milk, corn syrup and butter. Cook over medium heat until mixture reaches the softball stage, 235°F on a candy thermometer. Remove from heat, add marshmallow cream and peanut butter, and stir well to blend. Carefully pour warm fudge mixture into prepared pan lined with foil, and spread lightly. Let cool. Lift from pan with foil and cut into small squares before serving. Discard foil. Store in airtight container between layers of waxed paper.

Photos by Romney Caruso

W W W. R O U S E S . C O M 6 3

leave the fuss to us! ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT We offer prepared dressings in our Deli by the pound, half pan or full pan. Please order ahead. Choose from Cornbread, Crawfish Cornbread, Shrimp & Mirliton and Oyster Bienville.

Photo by Romney Caruso HEALTHY NEW YEAR ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT Imagine having your own personal

April Sins, MS, RD, LDN, Corporate Retail Dietitian Rouses Markets

dietitian by your side when you shop. Our registered dietitian nutritionist, April Sins, has simplified the process of identifying groceray items that have lower sodium, less saturated fat, healthier fats, more fiber and less sugar. Look for the Eat Right logo on the shelf or package for April’s picks. And sign up for April’s Eat Right with Rouses monthly newsletter at eatright@rouses. com to learn how to incorporate healthier foods and recipes into your lifestyle.

ROASTED ASPARAGUS Serves 6 to 8

WHAT YOU WILL NEED: 2½ bunches (about 3 pounds) asparagus, trimmed, cut in 3-inch pieces and blanched 8 slices Rouses Bacon, halved lengthwise, then crosswise into 4 pieces Spicy brown mustard, to taste HOW TO PREP: Preheat oven to 400°F. Spread mustard on each slice of bacon. Place 3 asparagus pieces on each slice of bacon and roll into bundle. Place each bundle on a sheet pan and put pan in the center of the preheated oven. Roast until the spears have begun to wilt and the bacon is fully cooked, about 25 minutes. Add a squeeze of lemon to bring out the flavor of the asparagus.

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CREAMY SEAFOOD SAUCE Makes about 2 cups

A-MAIZE-ING CORNBREAD Our crawfish cornbread dressing is one of the only recipes we don’t share, but here are tips for making your own delicious cornbread dressing. ɲ

Use stale cornbread — sweet or not, the choice is yours — as the crumbles will hold up better. The texture of cornbread crumbles should be firm and slightly dry to the touch. If the cornbread crumbles are too soft, toast them in the oven at 350.F for at least 15 minutes until they become dry. Be sure to toss them occasionally during this process.

ɲ Adjust the moisture level to your liking. For a drier dressing, add warm stock in moderation, ensuring even moisture without excess liquid. If you prefer a softer dressing, incorporate enough warm stock to achieve a thick, cooked oatmeal-like consistency. ɲ

Include generous amounts of onions, celery and a variety of fresh herbs like parsley, thyme, rosemary and sage. Before adding them to the mixture, gently saute. the vegetables in butter or oil until they reach a tender, softened state.

Be sure sausage and seafood are precooked.

Use an ample amount of fat — do not hold back. The fat is essential for flavor and will enhance the richness of the dressing.

If you like the crispy cornbread edges, bake your dressing in a cast-iron skillet or mini tins (so there will be more edges). Oven-bake it for a drier, denser cornbread-like texture, and finish it off with a creamy seafood sauce of your choosing (see recipe).

If you prefer a softer dressing, cover it with aluminum foil before baking, and remove the foil in the last 10 minutes of cooking. For a crispy top, on the other hand, bake the dressing uncovered.

ɲ Allow the dressing to rest for a few minutes after baking to let the flavors meld together before serving.

WHAT YOU WILL NEED: 4 tablespoons unsalted butter ¼ cup all-purpose flour 1½ cups seafood stock or low-sodium chicken stock 1 cup heavy cream 1 teaspoon Creole Seasoning ½ teaspoon smoked paprika ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper HOW TO PREP: Set a saucepan over medium heat, and melt the butter in it. When it foams, add the flour, and cook for approximately 4 minutes, whisking constantly to make a roux. Add the stock, and whisk again until it is smooth and thick. Gradually add the cream, whisking as you go. Stir in the Cajun Seasonings, paprika and black pepper. Bring the sauce just to a boil, then lower heat and simmer for approximately 10 minutes to thicken, stirring occasionally. JIFFY ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT JIFFY baking mixes’ iconic blue-and-white

boxes have graced kitchens for generations. Mabel White Holmes, former President of the Chelsea Milling Company, the manufacturer of JIFFY — and grandmother of the company’s current president — holds a special place in baking history. She invented the first prepared baking mix sold to the public, which went on the market in 1930, and she came up with the name, “JIFFY.” The name itself evokes a sense of speed and ease, perfectly capturing the essence of what this pioneering product was all about — convenience without compromising on taste and quality. ROUSES FRESH DRESSING MIX ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT Made with our exclusive blend of seasonings,

herbs and spices. Pairs perfectly with rice.

leave the fuss to us! ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT In our Butcher Shop, you'll find readyto-cook bacon-wrapped asparagus.

leave the fuss to us! ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT We have freshly baked cornbread in our Bakery. It’s a sweet, moist cornbread.

Photos by Romney Caruso

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Bring home a little taste of Italy.

Autentico Italian Gelato, Imported directly from Italy Crafted in the Vicenza province of Italy, our Authentic Italian Gelatos are made exclusively for the Rouse Family & our customers. Authentic Italian flavors, no passport required.

EXCLUSIVELY AT madeinitaly.gov.it

Rouses Magazine - Winter 2023

Articles inside

Shalom, Y'all

Jingle Bell Mock

It's A Wine-derful Life

Fizz the Season