ROUTE - April / May 2024

Kick Back on Route 66

Whether it’s classic cars, old fashioned burgers or a museum that brings history to life, you can relive the glory days of Route 66 in its birthplace. We love our city and know the best places to eat, drink and play.

SEE YOU IN SPRINGFIELD, MISSOURI

When exploring Route 66, Oklahoma City is a must-see destination. OKC’s vibrant districts welcome visitors with distinct murals, restaurants and shops.

From retro motels to luxury boutique hotels, come enjoy lodging experiences only found along OKC’s stretch of the Mother Road.

Start your journey at VisitOKC.com

ClassenInn

BrittonDistrict

CAPITAL OF ROUTE 66 TRAVEL HITS

The Tulsa Route 66 Commission promotes the iconic imagery, entrepreneurial spirit, and historical signi cance of its 28 miles of the Mother Road in Tulsa!

66 TRACKS

Blvd of Neon Dreams

$396,710 has been awarded to keep the dream of neon lights alive on Tulsa Route 66. With a grant supporting $1,100,000 of neon, the night will always be bright in Tulsa.

Golden Meadow Move’N’Groove

Saved by the community from destruction, the Meadow Gold neon sign shines again as the most prominent sign of Tulsa’s Landscape at 30 x 30 feet.

Three Neon Nights

Explore different eras of neon at Avery Plaza Southwest, Tulsa’s replica neon sign park, set against the backdrop of Tulsa’s skyline.

Reel Rhythm

Discover history memorialized in the neon of Circle Cinema Theater. Don’t miss a chance to step into the filming location for S.E Hinton’s “The Outsiders.”

1:13

3:30

2:56

4:43

Willowbrook

Chicago

Romeoville

Joliet

Joliet

Wilmington

Braidwood

Dwight

Pontiac

Pontiac

Ariston Café Litchfield,

Twistee Treat Diner Livingston,

Wildey Theatre Edwardsville, IL

Chain of Rocks Bridge Granite City, IL

THERE’S SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE IN CLAREMORE, OK!

CLAREMORE HAS THE HORSEPOWER SUMMER 2024

DON’T MISS OUT ON THE EVENTS OF THE YEAR!

MAY 24-26

Will Rogers Stampede PRCA Rodeo

JUNE 20-23

Ford & Shelby Nationals

If you are ready for a road trip to truly celebrate the Mother Road, then make plans now to head to the Sooner State this June to attend the AAA Route 66 Road Fest – set for June 22nd and 23rd at the SageNet Center at Expo Square in Tulsa, OK. Who better than AAA to produce and sponsor a celebration of all things Route 66 as we countdown to the Centennial celebration in 2026?

Kick off a long weekend on Thursday, June 20 at the Mid-America Ford & Shelby Nationals Street Party & Car Show. It is FREE and open to public from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. on Route 66 at the Claremore Expo Center. Spend Friday morning exploring historic downtown Claremore and learn more about Claremore’s favorite son at the Will Rogers Memorial Museum. Then make your way to Tulsa on Route 66 and you’ll run into the famous Blue Whale of Catoosa –a must see. Your next stop is historic 11th Street in Tulsa where you can stop by Mother Road Market (another must see) for lunch and then Buck Atom’s Cosmic Curios. Go to VisitTulsa.com to find lodging and restaurants.

The Road Fest opens at 10 a.m. Saturday and will be bigger and better than ever. Tickets will be available at the door. Your first stop will be the “Journey”, an indescribable and immersive exhibit of over 150,000 square feet – complete with facts about the road, artifacts, photos, and characters from the past to guide you.

There is also a vintage RV park, an activity zone for the family, a drive-in theater, and vendor booths from around the country. Check the schedule for engaging speakers and entertainment at the presentation stage and choose from a wide selection of fun food and beverage options!

Star of Popular Reality TV Show

“Fast N’ Loud” and Founder and Owner of Gas Monkey Garage

You can’t have a Route 66 event without classic cars! The lower level of Road Fest will be filled with classic cars as well as music and entertainment provided by the Hard Rock Hotel & Casino.

And this year, AAA has some exciting news for car enthusiasts! Richard Rawlings, the star of the popular Reality TV Show “Fast N’ Loud” and founder and owner of Gas Monkey Garage, will be at the Road Fest Saturday and Sunday engaging with fans and participants.

Tickets will be $10 at the door or online, $7 for seniors and veterans, and $5 for AAA Members. Go to Route66RoadFest.com and follow us on Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/route66roadfest.

CONTENTS

24 Hallowed Ground

Few periods of American history create the somber effect of the Civil War. For those wishing to discover where some of the historic battles were fought, many U.S. towns have created destinations commemorating the tragic events that took place between 1861–1865. Down in little Carthage, Missouri, one pretty serene park stands quietly, a witness to the struggles of a then-young nation.

28 A Woman’s Vision

By Cheryl Eichar Jett

Entrepreneurial dreams are nothing new along Route 66. Big ideas and even bigger aspirations have always been a driving force for development along the Mother Road since its birth in 1926. And the city of Tulsa is no stranger to creative, visionary people. But today a new group of entrepreneurs is leading the charge in the iconic town, and in the area of fine dining, one woman is at the head of the pack.

36 Ethyl the Whale

Way up in northern New Mexico, just on the outskirts of Santa Fe lives a giant of an art installation. First dreamed up in the late-2010s by artists Joel Dean Stockdill and Yustina Salnikova, Ethyl is undeniably a sight to behold. Roadside art is something largely unique to America; visitors and residents alike regularly drive far and wide to seek it out. But this enormous piece may be one that has a bolder mission than most.

50 The Bunion Derby

When Route 66 was first commissioned in 1926, America’s first true sports agent and flamboyant promoter, Charles C. Pyle, better known as C.C. “Cash and Carry” Pyle, knew that a huge

event would be needed to make people aware and get them excited to hit the highway for themselves. But what? What would create a sensation that could grab the attention of a nation? Why, a national foot race of course. Starting from Highway 66 in Los Angeles and ending at Madison Square Garden in New York City, this historic 3,423-mile race was a promotional stunt that, while never repeated, would go on to have just the desired effect that Route 66 boosters desired.

52 Mother Jones

Mt. Olive, Illinois, has always been a respected Mother Road town. Perhaps most famously, it is home to the Soulsby Station, a lovely little white, red, and yellow restored gas station that closed its doors in 1999. But what many may not know is the town’s connection to a charismatic, determined female union leader lovingly referred to as Mother Jones. When next in the town, pass by a well-designed 22-foot, 80-ton granite tower dedicated to one of America’s most staunch early supporters of workers’ rights, and discover her fascinating story.

ON THE COVER

Seligman, AZ. Photograph by Efren Lopez/Route66Images.

Cadillac Ranch, Amarillo, TX. Photograph by Scott Flanagin.

EDITORIAL ROUTE

I am not sure how many people are readers these days. I don’t mean casual, pick up a book once in a while and skim through a few pages, readers. I mean, can’t wait to devour the book readers. You know, those people who once inside of a book seem to be unable to hear any direct verbal communication. I have always been an avid reader. I love stories. I have a cousin who is two years older than me. On weekends when we would visit her home—I was around eleven/twelve at the time—I would always go with a book. She would inadvertently ask to take a look at it and then disappear. With my book. Two hours later she would emerge from her cocoon having finished 250 pages. Now she was a reader.

I recently finished On the Road by Jack Kerouac. I know that I should have consumed the story years ago… I’ve watched the movie twice. Shameful, I know. I enjoyed it for the most part but some of his language and the almost hero worship of Neal Cassady aka Dean in the book was a bit off putting. He was quite the selfcentered, reckless individual. As I read, I marveled at the lack of responsibility and even self-care that Kerouac and those around him took as they traversed the country in the 1940s, broke, hungry, cold, and totally unprepared for the adventure. But on the other end, their sense of unbridled freedom and devil may care attitude was both endearing and enthralling. I found myself longing to pack a quick bag and hit the road, all through the book. But there is a price to pay for such life choices. Kerouac would go on to die at the young age of 47 from abdominal bleeding, likely brought on from a lifetime of very heavy drinking. Cassady would not be so lucky. He died alone at the age of 41, by the railroad tracks in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, from an accidental drug overdose.

Why does any of this matter? Well, perhaps it doesn’t, but if you are a voracious reader and if you have a love affair with the great American road trip, then On the Road—the first real story of its kind—has a tale to tell that is worth experiencing, even if it is just for purpose of learning how not to live and travel.

Currently, I am reading a book that my wife got me for Christmas: Killing Yourself to Live by Chuck Klosterman. It is funny and self-effacing and the perfect story if you fancy hitting the road in search of music roadside attractions and the true story behind some of American pop culture’s most tragic events. I am only thirty pages in so stay tuned.

If you haven’t yet picked up a copy of my bestselling book, Miles to Go, please place the April/May issue down, and rush to your computer and order one now. I strongly believe that as readers and travelers, we need to support and promote great stories that showcase and celebrate the American landscape: it’s people, places, history, and stories. I am convinced that this is the most productive way, outside of hitting the road ourselves, to ensure that Route 66, classic roadside attractions, and insignificantto-monumental roadside landmarks are maintained and protected. If Americans do not love and protect the American tapestry, who will?

In this issue, we bring you some amazing stories of entrepreneurial spirit along the highway and share the journey that these tenacious folks made to get there. Most of us love the long established, sometimes forlorn, spots along the iconic road, but it is also the newer stops along Route 66 that ensure the future of the road and its unpredictable lure and diversity. We also investigate some destinations that harken back to a time period long ago… I mean, Civil War days, even! Think you know Route 66, think again. This historic highway is full of surprises and packed with opportunities to really discover the country and be amazed.

So, enjoy the issue and then dive into a great travelogue, and then hit the road. In that order.

Remember to visit us online—www.routemagazine.us and check out all of the unique content there, too. And don’t forget to subscribe while there. Visit us on social media and stay in touch with all of the news and events happening along America’s favorite historic highway.

Blessings,

Brennen Matthews Editor

PUBLISHER

Thin Tread Media

EDITOR

Brennen Matthews

DEPUTY EDITOR

Kate Wambui

EDITOR-AT-LARGE

Nick Gerlich

LEAD EDITORIAL PHOTOGRAPHER

David J. Schwartz

LAYOUT AND DESIGN

Tom Heffron

DIGITAL

Matheus Alves

ILLUSTRATOR

Jennifer Mallon

EDITORIAL INTERNS

Helene Martin

Sarah L. Boyd

CONTRIBUTORS AND PHOTOGRAPHERS

Aaron Garza

Barkley Edison

Bob Wick

Chandler O’Leary

Cheryl Eichar Jett

Claremore Museum of History

Efren Lopez

Emily Steward

Kate Matthews

Lauren Lovall

Mark Sweeney

Mitchell Brown

Mollie Sample

Scott Flanagin

Editorial submissions should be sent to brennen@routemagazine.us.

To subscribe or purchase available back issues visit us at www.routemagazine.us.

Advertising inquiries should be sent to advertising@routemagazine.us.

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Mickey

Atlanta’s House of Knowledge

Featuring a historic main artery lined with antique brick buildings and arched windows, Atlanta, Illinois, is a small town beloved by citizens and Route 66 travelers alike for its celebrated history and impossibly quaint atmosphere. Within the heart of the community, stories have, in many ways, shaped the town into what it is today — a treasure trove glistening with nuggets of wisdom. Did we mention that they also have a fantastic Muffler Man giant? And for every buried chest, there exists a protector, but no, it is not the enormous Paul Bunyan giant, but the equally precious, Atlanta Public Library.

Established by the Atlantan city government as an official public “entity” in 1873 — 20 years after the town’s founding in 1853 — the library’s earliest beginning was not, surprisingly, as a physical building. “As it’s passed down, we’ve kind of been told that Atlanta established the first public library in Logan County,” explained Christina Vannoy, the administrative director of the Atlanta Public Library. “[The townspeople] originally housed their library books in the local drug store because they didn’t have a building for it. And then, at some point, they were moved to the local newspaper, the Atlanta Argus — it’s no longer around. But then it moved to the City Hall building at some point... [and] then a physician’s office in 1889.”

Existing in spirit alone, the location bounced from placeto-place to suit the generous growth of its leather-bound collection. With visitation open for only half a day during the week — the city itself only granting $100 in taxes for the preservation of the “library” — it was becoming abundantly clear to the residents of this small American town that something needed to change.

Rather than seeking a grant from the Carnegie Foundation — a fund most towns sought for building libraries — Atlanta’s residents pitched in for the money themselves. Through the encouragement of the Atlanta Woman’s Club, most of whose members hailed from wealthy families among the town’s earliest settlers, the citizens rallied under the umbrella of the truly charitable cause. “Every citizen will certainly agree that the benefits of a good public library can hardly be estimated, and we believe that the ladies will have the general

sympathy and aid of the community in their efforts,” read an article in the Atlanta Argus, published on January 25, 1901.

And bountiful aid they were sure to receive.

By 1905, the community had raised $3,000 in donations — with more funds streaming in by the day. And it was not just the locals who got involved. A former native of the town, Seward H. Fields had promised the library board a portion of land if ever a library was conceived. One night, striding into the gathered assembly, he announced a worthy proposition — a tract of property stretched between Arch and Race streets and the Chicago & Alton Railroad. “I think the community definitely saw a need for a library, but especially a want,” remarked Vannoy.

By 1908, with a total of $9,000, the blueprints for the anticipated building — a unique octagonal structure comprising seven symmetrical sides with the front entry facade breaking the octagonal rhythm — in a Neoclassical style implemented by Bloomington architect Paul O. Moratz were created.

Built by Joseph A. Reichel of El Paso, Texas, the building, which consisted of a main floor and a basement, boasted a bright red tiled roof, three tall linteled windows carved into each limestone wall, a grand doorway flanked by two Roman Doric unfluted columns, and electricity-powered indoor lighting. “While the library was the first building in Atlanta built with electricity already in it, it only had one light fixture in each room, and there wasn’t a lot of light to be able to read by. At the time, they didn’t know what would be [good] for the preservation of books,” said Vannoy.

Thanks to Route 66 running right through the peaceful township, the uniqueness in the mixture of architectural styles of the library spread worldwide, adding to the town’s allure. “I don’t know if we’d have as [many] visitors without Route 66,” pondered Vannoy. “If I worked anywhere else, I don’t think that I would be able to meet the people that I do.”

A close community first and a library second, the Atlanta Public Library, now also a museum, serves as an anchor for the town, representing not only the power of a community coming together, but as a portrait of small-town America in its most beautiful incarnation.

Photograph by David J. Schwartz –Pics On Route 66.

AMBOY CRATER

With temperatures ranging around a simmering 100 degrees or higher, the Mojave Desert is as beautiful and mysterious as it is deadly.

Dotted across shrubbed plains, the desert’s volcanoes embody nature’s power boiling beneath the earth’s crust. Within the surrounding wilderness, up to 32 dormant red-and-black cinder cone mounds leave an ashen scar where lava once exploded from the depths. Known as the youngest volcanic eruption between 500 and 15,000 years ago, according to geologists, the Amboy Crater is treasured as a national gem among a sea of cinders.

The crater was formed from the eruption of a cinder cone volcano which was created when volcanic material such as ash, volcanic rocks, and cinders, were ejected during a violent eruption and fell back to the ground, solidified, and formed a cone-shaped hill. “What’s unique about this crater is that the side of the crater collapsed, allowing those cinders to pour out over the valley floor,” said Ramona Daniels, outdoor recreation specialist for the Bureau of Land Management.

“Typically, a cinder [cone] climbs and climbs until it stops and that’s the end.

To have a crater in a cinder cone is rare.”

Dating back thousands of years, the region around this geological marvel is believed to have been inhabited by Native American tribes and the crater likely held not only cultural and religious significance but was vital for their survival. But it was not until around the 1880s that the towering 250-feethigh and 1,500-feet-in-diameter chocolate-brown crater would be given its name.

town of Amboy became a crucial pit stop along the iconic highway. The proximity of Amboy Crater added an extra layer of intrigue, attracting travelers fascinated by the natural wonders of the Mojave. “The people who used to live in Amboy — we’re talking the ‘50s and the ‘60s — used to scare people who were traveling by train or by car. They would go out and light tires on fire in the crater so that black smoke would come up out of the crater,” noted Daniels.

Designated as a unique National Natural Landmark in 1973, the crater caused quite a stir when the Landers earthquake occurred in 1992, tearing the ground at the seams and arousing panic among locals. “There were a lot of people in the Twentynine Palms area that rushed out to go check on the volcano. No rumbles from the volcano. Like always, just earthquakes,” said Daniels. “We’ve had helicopters that have been over the military range, and bombing that has gone on, when people were on the crater, where they felt the vibration and rushed out for fear that it was going to erupt.” In 2016, the crater and its surrounding lava field became part of the newly designated Mojave Trails National Monument and in 2020 Amboy Crater Trail was added to the National Trails System becoming one of Mojave Trails’ most popular sites for hikers, nature and stargazing enthusiasts, and Route 66 travelers.

As the railway started to kick off steam in the early 1870s, Lewis Kingman, a renowned civil engineer and railroad surveyor, began the daunting task of mapping out 3,800 miles of railroad tracks scaling through the southwestern United States and Mexico. Embarking on the Mojave Road, he started the process of naming the would-be train stops — tiny towns bordering the route — in alphabetical order. The first turned out to be Amboy which had its first post office in 1904. As steam engines rumbled across the desert, carrying passengers to and from the town for supplies, the crater, which was just 2.4 miles away, was naturally christened Amboy Crater.

Then the construction of Route 66 through the Mojave Desert brought even more attention to the area and the

Under the management of the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) the site has been fitted with picnic tables and restroom facilities. A hike to the rim of the crater offers outstanding views of the associated 26-mile-long lava field and its stunning contrast to the vast desert wilderness. Visit in the early spring, when the heat is manageable, and you will be rewarded with another unique feature: a super bloom sea of wildflowers sprouting from the dark ground — ranging from sunny yellow to a deep purple — blankets the crater’s base, making it come alive.

The crater continues to draw travelers seeking a connection to America’s highway history, people who have an appreciation for the striking landscapes of California’s Mojave Desert, and are keen to discover a story that spans geological epochs and the golden era of American road travel.

Photograph by Bob Wick.

There is plenty for everyone to see and do in Grants, NM. Cruise, Camp, Hike, Sightsee, Stargaze, Eat, Enjoy, Shop and Stay a while. Experiences here are authentic, from our diverse cultures and distinctive landscapes found nowhere else, to the people who are warmhearted and sincere.

HALLOWED

Photograph by David J. Schwartz - Pics On Route 66

GROUND

July 5, 1861, at around eight o’clock in the morning, the unmistakable sounds of thousands of screaming voices and echoing gunshots greeted the townspeople of Carthage in Jasper County, Missouri. In what is now called The Battle of Carthage — otherwise known as the Engagement near Carthage — approximately 1,000 Union soldiers were met by approximately 6,000 Missouri State Guard nine miles north of town. This battle is regarded locally as the first all-day land battle of the Civil War and was unique in that it covered both rural warfare in the countryside and by the end of the day it became urban warfare as it came into and through the town.

“This is one of those actions that covers nine to 10 miles. Most of the fighting was on farmland to the north of town and it kept getting closer and closer to town all day. Then towards the end of the day, it stormed through the town, so the museum is on part of the battlefield, because it’s just a block from the square,” explained Steve Cottrell, one of the attendants of the Battle of Carthage Civil War Museum and co-author of Civil War in the Ozarks. “This town had 500 people in it at the time of the Civil War and there were 7,000 troops, counting both sides in the Battle of Carthage. So, you got a town engulfed by 7,000 screaming, hollering guys blasting away with muskets and cannons late in the day. And then the battle went off to the southeast. They finally couldn’t see each other anymore, so it fizzled out.”

While the Missouri State Guard vastly outnumbered the small Union Army present at the Battle of Carthage, the Union had the advantage of better equipment and tactical training on their side. A large portion of the State Guard consisted of volunteers on their way to officially join the Confederate Army down south — farm boys equipped only with their father’s shotgun or a pitchfork and running on pure ideological faith and confusion around the intricacies of the war. The Union Army at the Battle of Carthage were armed with genuine military training; this allowed them to evade capture and amazingly come out of the battle with fewer casualties.

Reports from the time are difficult to decipher on both sides of the action. It is approximated that 13 Union troops were killed and 31 were wounded in the battle; whereas it is estimated 15 of the State Guard were killed and 50 wounded. Both sides of the battle claimed victory in their own right. The Missouri State Guard — having successfully chased the Union Army into a retreat and still holding Carthage at the end of the day — celebrated a great triumph. However, while the Union Army did flee 18 miles on foot to Sarcoxie during the night, their main goal was retreat and set up delaying actions, so, they too claimed themselves victorious in the battle.

Carthage, at the time of the Civil War, was a frontier state full of immigrants from other states, and housed a healthy

mix of people either from northern states who supported the Union or from southern states that supported the Confederacy. “One of the interesting, ironic things is that the guys from Carthage that were from the Missouri State Guard at that time didn’t [actually] fight at the Battle of Carthage. They were on a mission down in Arkansas at the time to get reinforcements… and those reinforcements showed up the day after the battle, on July 6th , and the battle was already over,” said Cottrell. “Also, the main Union Army in Missouri was not present here at this battle, because they were stuck up north due to high water. They couldn’t cross the Osage River. History is full of things like that.”

It might be hard to reconcile what happened over 160 years ago with the modern image of Carthage — a quiet, peaceful town sitting in the Ozarks of Missouri — but the remnants of history still live throughout the sprawling farmland and paved streets of the Route 66 city. Visitors to modern Carthage can visit the seven-acre outdoor Battle of Carthage State Historic Site and reflect on the events that transpired not only on July 5, 1861, but throughout the Civil War as it swept through Jasper County. The importance of the Civil War in this part of the nation — which at the time was known as the Trans-Mississippi Theater, referring to the war action west of the Mississippi River — is often overlooked, but nonetheless important.

“I am interested in history, it has value, it has a practical value. If you know about historical events that helps prevent mistakes in the future. Because you know a lot of things that happen in everyday life, even though it’s modern times, have a connection to the things that happened in the old days,” continued Cottrell. “Then there is the spiritual aspect of it. These are real people, people in history really existed. They weren’t just characters in a movie or a novel. They were real and are real souls. They deserve to be remembered by golly. I’ve had some experiences in my life that convinced me that they want to be remembered and they should be.”

Memorialized eternally in the open air of the Battle of Carthage State Historic Site and among the carefully curated and cared for Battle of Carthage Civil War Museum, lives the history of a bygone era. The Battle of Carthage took place 162 years ago, but the echoes of its prominence still ring into the present day. Not just in the lasting documents and preserved artifacts on display at the museum, but furthermore in the townspeople, historians, and visitors who keep this small part of history alive. Annually, Carthage receives a fair number of Mother Road travelers, eager to enjoy a movie at the Route 66 Drive-In or to bask in the warm green glow of the neon at Boots Court motel, but if they look a little further, they will discover that quiet, quaint Carthage is also home to a sad but fascinating history that undeniably deserves to be remembered.

ONE WOMAN’S

By Cheryl Eichar Jett

Emily Steward

Photographs by

WOMAN’S VISION

Tulsa’s first commercial district was a street of dreams — especially for the bankers, entrepreneurs, and shoppers. Oklahoma had just become a state in 1898, and its first oil boom was attracting new residents from everywhere. As the railroad lines grew in the early 1900s, a core of commercial buildings in “Main Street” style anchored the burgeoning district surrounded by manufacturing plants and warehouses. Businesses multiplied along its early streets — Archer, Boston, Brady, Cameron, and others — creating opportunities for wealth generation and naming rights for the city’s early entrepreneurs.

The area became known as the Brady District, named for W. Tate Brady, who is remembered for his accomplishments as an Oklahoma pioneer, politician, and merchant. Significantly, he was also a founder and staunch booster of Tulsa. The commercial neighborhood that thrived here for half a century depended upon the railroads. But by the mid-century, as development eventually began to trickle southward into another section of Tulsa, that trickle became a mad rush, as the elimination of railroad tracks crippled the Brady District’s commerce.

Through the late 40s’ and ‘50s, the transition from railroad to trucking on the nation’s highways, which had begun in World War II, had continued, and the Brady District began to suffer from that change. Then in 1964, the construction of the Keystone Dam was completed, and the KATY railroad tracks were removed, severing railroad access to the district. The dam, constructed for the worthy goals of flood control and hydroelectric power generation, signified the end of the railroad era in Tulsa, and what would be remembered as the Brady Historic District went into decline. Mostly abandoned during the ‘60s, the cavernous warehouses sat empty, and the storefronts deteriorated. The original commercial district grew so empty that it was said that the police no longer needed to patrol the area, because there was simply no one there.

But a couple of decades later, all that changed, as the district began its climb back into relevance and economic value. There, in the ‘90s, a young woman with dreams of her own occasionally wandered those vacant streets, intrigued by the architectural designs, and fascinated by the histories of the urban buildings. The young woman was Amelia Eesley, and she would soon migrate to New York City to fulfill her artistic dreams. There, she would achieve a theater career goal before eventually returning to Oklahoma to create her second dream — a restaurant of her own — in the historic district that by then had returned to vibrant life.

Arts and Culture Put a New Face on an Old District

In the ‘70s and ‘80s, artistic types had become interested in the unique spaces and the cheap rent found in the Brady Historic District. This trickle of activity had not gone unnoticed or

discouraged, as major players in the areas of development, finance, planning, tourism, and arts and culture joined in to remake the neglected section of town.

Realtor and developer David Sharp, who the press called the “Renaissance Man,” began with small building purchases, recruiting tenants to fill them. Planners, financiers, and developers worked to fill the spaces with a variety of arts and culture-related pursuits. The historic downtown became known as the Brady Arts District, as the old warehouses and empty spaces were replaced with theater and arts groups, the Tulsa Symphony Orchestra, and, of national note, the BOK Center, the Bob Dylan Museum, and the Woody Guthrie Center. Cultural icons in the neighborhood that pre-date the newer additions to the Arts District are the Tulsa Theater (formerly the Ole Lady on Brady) and the legendary Cain’s Ballroom, a wellrespected music hall since the 1930s (originally built as a garage for W. Tate Brady’s cars).

In September 2010, the Brady Historic District was named to the National Register of Historic Places.

Three years later, a name change altered Brady Street to M. B. Brady Street — after the famous Civil War photographer — and blue street signs bearing the words “Reconciliation Way” were added to the Brady sign posts. And in 2018, the local arts district association made the decision to change the neighborhood’s official name to the Tulsa Arts District.

“The renovation of the historic district has been a long process. It’s taken over 40 years,” said Bob Fleischman, president of the Tulsa Arts District Business Association. “But here we are today, and it’s a fantastic destination known not just in Oklahoma, but now nationally as well as internationally, with the Woody Guthrie Center and the Bob Dylan Museum.”

A Theatrical Dream and an Introduction to the Restaurant Business

While the City of Tulsa and its various economic, civic, and cultural organizations took care of business, Amelia Eesley had her own dream on her mind. Born in the 1970s to a career Navy father and a teacher mother, the family settled in Tulsa when Amelia was in the third grade. “My mother was an English teacher at Metro Christian Academy, the school that I went to, and my father is a historian. I mean, you could have a five-hour conversation with him about World War II,” said Eesley. “They’re very literary people and really liked the theater, such as the Tennessee Williams plays. They were really into it, but they didn’t act [themselves]. Theater was my very first career goal.”

During her high school years, Eesley participated in theater, but also had a part-time job that may just have foretold her eventual career. When she was 16, she began working at Tippin’s Pie Pantry in Tulsa and, among her other talents, discovered that she was a natural at serving tables. So much so, that her manager Al Fusco approached the then teen-aged Eesley about writing his restaurant’s training program. After high school graduation, she was active in community theater

and completed most of her college in Tulsa before heading East to take the next steps toward her acting dream.

A Detour through New York City

In 1998, Eesley headed for New York City for two years of theater study at American Musical and Dramatic Academy, a conservatory in Manhattan. For income while she studied, Eesley did what so many students of the arts do — she worked in restaurants. Her first New York waitressing experience quickly opened her eyes to big-city restaurants.

“It was beyond my belief that a shot of tequila could cost thirty dollars. We had one that cost $120, and it just surprised me that was even possible,” Eesley noted. “And it was a whole other level of food. We were serving really incredible food out of this little restaurant in Grand Central Station.”

Soon leaving that job behind, she went on tour with a theater group. But when she returned to New York, she picked up a food service job at Zanzibar, a cocktail lounge and nightclub at 54th and Ninth Avenue. Eesley liked the setup, with separate rooms for the bar, dining, private parties, and music, and later on in her own business found herself attempting to emulate that setup.

“At night, we would have a DJ, and it was really fun to work there. I was working the front room [the bar room] and would be in there with like 60 people. I would have all these tabs, you know, credit cards, that I had to hold to the side. It

was cocktail service in a nightclub, but we were still serving great food.” She became inspired.

With a chance to do another play, she left Zanzibar. But after the play’s run, she plunged headfirst into the fine dining scene in 2002, when she landed a job at Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse in Rockefeller Center.

“I was terrified the first three months I worked there. I was 100% certain that they were going to fire me, because I didn’t know what I was doing. I didn’t really understand fine dining or serving magnums of wine,” Eesley recounted. “But I did learn very quickly. They had the winemakers come in to teach us about wine. I couldn’t have told you the difference between a Pinot Noir and a Cabernet Sauvignon when I got that job. It really educated me about many of the different varietals and labels on our list, and I became their go-to for VIPs.”

Surrounded at work by successful career professionals, Eesley began to see that the restaurant business was truly an alternative way to earn a living, not just a “pass-through” job. The servers that were working alongside her had serious career intentions in the restaurant business. “Not just, ‘Oh, this is a job.’ This was their career desire. So that was really a chance to start thinking about things in a new way, and it was exciting because I knew I was really good at it,” she explained. “I was like, you know the acting thing, I enjoyed it a lot, but this just made sense to me. So, I started to think, ‘Well, maybe I want to open a restaurant one day.’ I realized that I did really love waiting tables and serving, and I realized that you could make a career out of it.”

Amelia Eesley inside of Amelia’s.

Back in Tulsa and Armed with Experience

Returning to Tulsa in 2004, Eesley went to work at Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse and Wine Bar in Utica Square, Tulsa’s first suburban shopping center. After six years, she moved on to Stonehorse Cafe, also in Utica Square, where she was named general manager. “I knew that I needed to manage before I could own, right?” she quipped.

By 2016, she felt ready to launch her own restaurant. And a space about the right size opened up in the Arts District at 122 N. Boston Avenue, where Dan Mason and Jennifer Howard had operated Mason’s Pub for a few years. The space was part of a larger one-story brick commercial building constructed in 1930 and utilized over the years for a variety of enterprises, including a truck transport headquarters, a refrigeration contractor, and an auction house and warehouse affiliated with Sears, Roebuck and Company.

“When I landed as a restaurateur in Tulsa’s Arts District, was that by design or chance?” Eesley pondered. “Downtown Tulsa was in a Renaissance period, and I’d always loved downtown Tulsa when I lived here as a teenager. I’d walk around the streets at night, and you know, I probably walked past this building, I don’t know how many times — I had no idea what would come of it. But even as a teenager, I was very drawn to urban areas.”

For Eesley’s purposes, the deep space in the old warehouse suited her well. She obtained financing for her venture and in December 2016 received her commercial building permit for $210,000 of interior alteration. On April 13, 2017, Amelia’s Wood-Fired opened its doors.

“The space that is Amelia’s now is the first space that I looked at. One of the things that drew me to it is the old brick all along the north wall,” said Eesley. “It reminded me of Manhattan, and it has the same shape as those restaurants, which is why I ended up choosing it. You’ve got just everything around you — it’s a great neighborhood. I love being part of the Arts District.”

Eesley wanted to focus on regional food with an homage to Oklahoma, especially being right across the street from the Woody Guthrie Museum. “So, the wood-fired oven makes us

think of cooking over an open fire in a field, as many people did back in the day,” she explained. “To me, it’s just upscale comfort food, like what your grandmother might make you, but done by our chefs.” Handmade pastas and dishes with a touch of South American flair round out the menu.

Producing the food these days is Chef Andrew Donovan, who came on board during the pandemic, bringing with him executive chef experience from the East Coast, from sunny Florida, and from several restaurants in Manhattan, before landing as a restaurateur in Tulsa. Chef Andrew’s variety of experience also played into the concept for their sister location, Restaurant Basque, just steps away within the same building.

“The restaurants share staff, so we have about 40 people working here between the two restaurants,” said Eesley. “One of the reasons we opened Basque was to give us the extra space and a bigger kitchen. It also helped us increase our staff.”

Restaurant Basque opened in 2021 at 114 N. Boston Avenue, a space formerly occupied by Hey Mambo Italian Restaurant and originally part of the same warehouse that Amelia’s occupies. Basque offers Spanish and French cuisine with a European-style dining experience, such as lots of small plates, and a markedly different style and offering than the regional flavor of Amelia’s Wood-Fired. With two restaurants featuring different culinary styles and varying décor and ambience, Eesley has cemented her place within the wide range of culinary arts in the downtown district.

“The Arts District is known for visual and performance arts, but also for the culinary arts. And Amelia’s and Basque are of course top-notch with respect to the offerings that they provide to the Tulsa community,” Fleischman said. “It’s so enjoyable how they change their menu with the seasons. They’re a very soughtafter establishment. And it’s something that an entrepreneur can’t beat, that they’re located in the Arts District.”

It’s talented and dedicated people like Amelia Eesley that are bringing the artistic side of the restaurant business — true culinary arts — to the Tulsa Arts District, complimenting the range of artistic expression already found there, and providing another excellent choice to visitors and travelers enjoying this vibrant neighborhood.

So, is the old historic district still a street of dreams? Its renewal and regrowth in recent decades would seem to say so. Dreams have been thriving there — of a major sports and event stadium, of museums honoring America’s folksinging storytellers. Dreams dreamed by restaurateurs and chefs and sommeliers and entrepreneurs, who can make food into art. And a dream dreamed by a young Tulsa girl who grew into a New York theater actress but found her way home to the most unexpected destination — two outstanding and unique restaurants in the heart of the Tulsa Arts District. It’s new additions to the Mother Road towns like Amelia’s that are giving the old road a newfound lease on life.

Inside of Basque.

PONTIAC’S PISTOL SHAPED STATION

About three miles outside of Pontiac, Illinois, along old Route 66, amid the expansive green fields, sits a vacant, unassuming structure that today’s motorists generally drive by without giving it a second glance. Its tan color is now faded, its bricks weathered by years of neglect.

To the untrained eye, it is just another old building lost to the annals of time. But this lonely structure has borne witness to the ebb and flow of Route 66 and even more so, to decades of law enforcement history.

The year was 1922 when the Illinois Highway Maintenance Police, now Illinois State Police (ISP), came into existence. Only about 1,100 miles of paved road existed in Illinois at the time and the initial eight patrol officers, who rode motorcycles, were mandated not only to safeguard the citizens of Illinois, but also to protect the new “hard roads” from damage due to overweight vehicles.

“The State police used old World War I Harley-Davidsons. They had police officers out patrolling on motorcycles long before they had any cars. It seems wild, but even in the wintertime, they would patrol,” said Pontiac historian Dave Sullivan. “My understanding is that the State police were not initially very concerned about speeders, their targeted concern was the trucks, overweight trucks on 66 that were destroying the road.”

If it is not already clear, local Illinois law enforcement had humble beginnings. As a matter of fact, its original headquarters was simply a desk in the chief’s house in Kankakee. However, by around the mid 1930s, with more staff recruited, the law enforcement body started building headquarters in various districts across the State, including a 6th District station in Pontiac, one of the few State police district headquarters located directly along U.S. 66.

Built in 1941-2 in the Art-Moderne style popular in the 1930s, the Pontiac station featured a stylish front entrance with a curved block wall, long linear lines, and smooth surfaces. However, it was via an aerial view that the true beauty of the building could be appreciated; the outline of the building cut an ‘L’ shape, similar to that of a handgun —

specifically a Derringer pistol.

Why it was designed in this ‘pistol’ shape is not clear, but the long barrel of the gun held assembly rooms, lockers, and a 10-car garage. In the grip of the gun were offices, and somewhere inside, a holding cell. At the hammer of the gun was the front entrance of glass.

“In the back, they had areas where they could store vehicles, and I think that at times they dismantled vehicles, as they were taking them apart for evidence. So, they had a little area where they could do that indoors,” continued Sullivan.

Strategically placed right along Route 66, this headquarters saw a lot of traffic on what became known as Bloody 66, the most traveled, and most dangerous roadway of the time. The officers were known as Hard Road Cops, as they patrolled the hard road of 66, where thousands of cars passed every day. Just north of Pontiac was known as “Dead Man’s Alley” by local officers, in reference to the numerous highway tragedies that occurred there.

Over the ensuing decades, the 6th District building also bore witness to Route 66 being widened to four lanes in 1944, motorcycles being completely replaced by patrol cars by 1949, and the construction of I-55 in the 1970s, which resulted in reduced traffic on the Mother Road. The old headquarters was finally retired from active duty in 2003 when a new larger facility was built. In 2007, the pistol shaped building was added to the National Register of Historic Places. Since then, it has sat bare of life and purpose.

“They have been [trying to find a use for it.] It was for sale for a little while, many years ago,” explained Sullivan. “They had an agreement with the county for a while. The State was supposed to fix it up and put a new roof on it and give it to the county for a dollar, but that never really materialized.”

Though weathered by time and northern Illinois winters, the old building remains a testament to the enduring legacy of those who served within its walls. In 2014, a 2D metal art installation depicting a motorcycle policeman was erected in honor of the patrolmen. While its doors may be closed, for now, the stories of the 6th District headquarters linger, carried on the wind that sweeps across the rolling Midwest plains.

Photograph by Kate Matthews.

ETHYL THE

Photograph by David J. Schwartz - Pics On Route 66

THE WHALE

October 12, 2018, was a momentous occasion for hundreds of people as they gathered in the grassy opening of Crissy Field overlooking the historic Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco, California. The enthusiastic crowd was met with the sight of 5,000 pounds and 84-feet of hand-recycled plastic, lovingly fabricated and constructed into a life-sized, scientifically accurate blue whale sculpture named Ethyl the Whale. With her head arched toward the clear sky above, flippers outstretched, and fluke spread gracefully behind her, Ethyl seemingly swims through the open air.

The dedication of hundreds of people, a little over six months of tedious work, and the striking vision of two passionate artists went into the creation of this amazing giant. Contracted by the Monterey Bay Aquarium, who decided, instead of creating additional plastic waste through a more traditional billboard advertisement campaign, that they could promote their ocean conservancy efforts in a greener way, the team had a vision. Every aspect of this colossal sculpture was planned and thought out with extreme care to detail, from a whale biologist advising on the realities of the design, to engineers helping to achieve the difficult feat of the whale’s steel skeleton, and even waste management professionals advising on how to make a greywater system to reduce water waste throughout the process. Before Ethyl was even fully formed and placed onto Crissy Field, she was inspiring the passion of all those who took part in her creation.

More than just a public art piece of unusual beauty, Ethyl was intended to spark conversation regarding human plastic use and its negative effects on the environment, specifically the ocean. The statistic represented through Ethyl is that every nine minutes, the approximate weight of a blue whale of plastic — 300,00 pounds — goes into our oceans. This statistic became the starting point for the creation of Ethyl, but she grew into much more from there. While many plastic sculptures have been created in the past to open a dialogue on environmental issues, artists Joel Dean Stockdill and Yustina Salnikova wanted to achieve a solution-based approach to creating Ethyl.

“We also wanted to emphasize that even if we stopped using plastic today, we’ve already made so much of it. And only 9% of plastic that has ever been created has been recycled… Even if we stopped today, we’d still have a lot to deal with. So, we wanted to do a solutions-oriented approach,” explained Salnikova. “We turned this really big shop into a recycling center — basically a DIY recycling center. We got about 5,000 pounds of plastic… we had to clean all the plastic… put it through a woodchipper that we turned into a plastic-shredding machine because it just bonds better and creates a cooler pattern when you shred it. So, then we shredded it all and then we baked it in an oven at 350 degrees for 30 minutes and put it in a press that Joel had made out of wood and car jacks.”

Ethyl’s name was aptly extracted from the high-density polyethylene single-use plastic that her body is composed

of — known as #2 plastics. Things like laundry detergent bottles, cosmetic containers, old toys, and milk jugs were cleaned, dried, baked, and pressed to create the skin of Ethyl. Roughly 750 handmade plastic tiles, interlaid over a steel frame, make up this behemoth sculpture. With a 30-foot cantilever supporting the head piece jutting off the ground into open air and only about 20 feet of Ethyl touching the ground, she is a structural wonder to behold.

After her initial purpose for the Monterey Bay Aquarium was fulfilled, Ethyl was purchased by arts production company Meow Wolf. Originally designed to be a moving exhibit, Ethyl was built to be taken apart; all of her fitting into a 50-foot shipping container. This was how she made the over 1,000-mile journey from Crissy Field to her new home at Sante Fe Community College (SFCC), where she was installed as part of the SFCC Foundation’s Art on Campus Committee. Set against New Mexico’s blue sky and prominent in front of the school, Ethyl makes her presence known on campus. Her story is now on display to students and staff, as her message on recycling continues to grow.

“The idea of recycling has basically been to make us feel psychologically better as consumers. It’s not necessarily that our plastic recycling system is broken, it’s that it was never meant to work in the first place. It was made to make us feel better about consuming lots of plastic. The stark realization around that was really enlightening,” said Stockdill. “… the general feeling was to showcase that initial statistic of how much plastic was going in the ocean, but I think that it’s really become one of these pieces that makes people reflect on their own consumption of how much plastic they’re actually using in their life. When you see a sculpture that large made out of that much plastic, it has this sort of impact. Hopefully, people will consider how much they’re using and can sort of modulate their own consumer behaviors to include less plastic or to reuse stuff that they do consume.”

While not planned, Ethyl obtained the Guinness World Record for largest recycled-plastic sculpture, earning her the centerfold in 2018. However, this is not her only claim to fame, as Ethyl is also modeled after a famous blue whale that washed ashore in Bolinas, California in 2017. This particular blue whale was tagged at birth by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) — a difficult feat due to blue whales’ elusive nature — and has informed a lot of research on blue whale behavior.

Ethyl the Whale now permanently resides at Santa Fe Community College — a startling reminder of the plastic waste that we humans create — as she continues to teach students and all those who visit, about the importance of our impact on the environment and the world around us. While in today’s world, plastic usage can seem almost unavoidable and constantly surrounding our everyday, Ethyl remains helping us to see plastic in new ways. A visit to Ethyl is a great reminder that roadside America, while always entertaining, can be a little educational, too. And that’s a good thing.

Art Among Haystacks

In the 1890s, as a horsedrawn wagon rumbled down a two-lane dirt road, something caught the driver’s eye. Rising over the hill was a barn — a common sight within Ohio, an agriculturally influenced state. But what made this barn different was the art. Painted in vivid yellow-and-white paint within a black background, the barn boldly boasted the logo: “Chew Mail Pouch Tobacco — Treat Yourself To The Best.” Through the ages, advertising barns sparked more than just a company’s signature tobacco brand — it opened the door to a new marketing strategy. Explore the rich history of America’s great barn advertising period.

But the Mail Pouch barns were not the only signage to impact America at the time. For motorists traveling through Missouri and Tennessee in the early 1930s, barns also featured eye-catching handpainted directions to lead travelers to exciting attractions like the popular Meramec Caverns or Rocky City. “It was an [inexpensive] opportunity for owners to advertise their destination as tourism grew in America [thanks to the automobiles],” continued Gray.

And then came the end: the Highway Beautification Act of 1965.

While billboard advertisements were nothing new — invented by poster printer Jared Bell in 1835 to advertise circuses — it took until 1890 for barn advertising to truly take flight, a marketing project led by Aaron and Samuel Bloch, founders of the Bloch Brothers Tobacco Company of Wheeling, West Virginia.

Emigrating to America from Germany in the 1840s, the brothers started a grocery store in Wheeling and, by 1879, operated a stogie — cheap cigar — industry on the second floor. Business thrived until a 1884 flood swept through the city, seriously damaging the town. Luckily, though the store was ruined, the tobacco remained untouched on the upper floor. Determined to make the most of this second chance, the brothers became fully invested in tobacco production.

And they were not disappointed. By 1897, their newest product, Mail Pouch Tobacco, was all the rage; yearly, the company produced 120 million packages. Playing an influential role in the company’s rising popularity were the barn ads.

“[The Mail Pouch employers] would take a seasoned barn painter and pair him with a rookie, and they would train them that way,” said Pamela Whitney Gray, barn consultant and published author. “They wanted a barn that had a large side with no window, so that it gave them a large canvas to put their sign on. And it needed to be placed on the road so that it was seen from quite a distance.”

As barn advertising took off into the early 20th Century, two Ohio painters emerged above the pack: Maurice Zimmerman and Harley Warrick. Donning their paintsmeared, stiffened overalls as they ascended the precarious scaffolding, they each painted well over 10,000 Mail Pouch barns within Ohio alone — a truly extraordinary feat.

Issued by Lyndon B. Johnson through the urging of his wife, the act prohibited the placement of billboards 600 feet from the highway as they obstructed the beautiful roadside greenery. “From then on, there was very little done until the people decided that they didn’t want their barns to be destroyed [or painted over] for the fact that they had a Mail Pouch advertisement on it. [The law] started getting complaints from people because they felt as though the advertising barns were a part of the history of the nation and were iconic buildings within the local area.”

Determined not to let these historic advertisements disappear, Stuart Bloch, great-grandson of one of the two Bloch brothers, appealed to West Virginia Senator Jennings Randolph to preserve the Mail Pouch barn signs — and he agreed to save them. By 1974, legislation was amended, recognizing barn advertisements as symbols of vintage Americana, a reminder of the country’s non-generic past.

While other painters dropped out of business after the law was passed, Warrick continued working with Mail Pouch adverts until his retirement in 1991. After the legendary painter passed on November 24, 2000, from an aneurysm at 76 years old, it seemed that barn advertisements had officially met their match.

But there was hope.

From 1997 to 2002, self-taught barn artist Scott Hagan reignited barn advertising. Hired by the state for Ohio’s Bicentennial Barn Project, he painted the state’s 200thanniversary blue-and-red emblem on 88 barns, one per county — bringing back the nostalgic charm the original barn painters achieved long ago.

Though barn advertising has evolved from its early roots, it will continue as a staple of traditional American road culture for travelers to admire as they drive down the country’s quiet back roads.

Illustration by Chandler O’Leary.

JUNE 6TH - 15TH, 2024

car shows · parades

bus tours · live music

pin-up pageant

cattle drive

FINALE FESTIVAL EVENT JUNE 15TH presented by

AMERICA’S

BALLROOM

Photograph by Emily Steward

Tulsa, Oklahoma’s second-largest city, is renowned for its rich and thriving music culture, a reality that is deeply embedded in its colorful history, and perfectly situated along iconic Route 66. At the heart of this musical tapestry stands Cain’s Ballroom, the city’s foremost music destination, a legendary venue that witnessed the awe-inspiring-performances of the larger-thanlife Bob Wills and the Texas Playboys. Cain’s Ballroom is set to commemorate its upcoming centennial anniversary, marking a century of truly unforgettable musical moments.

The story of the ballroom dates way back to 1924, when city founder and entrepreneur Wyatt Tate Brady constructed a 12,393-square-foot sandstone and brick building. Originally intended to serve as an auto garage, fate had other plans in store. For a brief period, the structure was used as a schoolhouse, but it soon emerged as a vibrant dance hall that Brady christened the “Louvre.”

However, change was afoot again for the venue when in 1930, five years after Brady’s death, legendary ballroom dance instructor Madison W. “Daddy” Cain leased and renamed the venue “Cain’s Academy of Dancing.” Cain brought in a team of talented instructors to teach patrons the Charleston and the waltz. He also replaced the original oak floor with maple, which is a story in itself.

For over 80 years, there were rumors that the ballroom floor had hidden springs beneath its surface. As time wore on, the floor endured considerable wear and tear, eventually necessitating its replacement in 2007. While the truth revealed no hidden springs beneath its surface, it did expose undersized frame supports, which explained the reason why the floor seemed to “bounce.” Unfortunately, the floor had to be replaced again in 2017, since it wasn’t done properly the first time.

“But the second time it was done great. And it still has some flex,” said Chad Rodgers, who co-owns Cain’s along with his brother, Hunter. The brothers purchased the business in 2002, along with their father, Dr. James Rodgers, and their mother, Alice. “When we see enough people, like this last Sunday, there were 1,400 people out there jumping up and down, I could see the bounce in the floor, and people enjoying their time. I’ll say that’s the greatest thing about owning Cain’s Ballroom. Our goal is to provide unbelievable experiences, memorable events.”

Since Cain’s wasn’t up to code, and in dire need of remodeling, the Rodgers installed a fire sprinkler system, a central heating and cooling system, overhauled the restrooms, replaced the sound and lighting, and completed numerous other renovations. But some things have remained the same. Photos of past performers adorn the walls, the “Home of Bob Wills” banner hangs above the stage, and neon red and white signs from the 1930s still cast their glow from the rooftop and the entrance.

However, there’s some mystery regarding the outdoor neon signs. In a photo taken circa 1930s, a vertical “Cains Academy of Dancing” sign hangs above the entrance and

three signs adorn the roof: a rectangular “Academy of Dancing” sign on the bottom, a “CAIN’S” sign in the center, and what appears to be a dancing figure sign on the top. It’s unknown when and why the rectangular rooftop sign and dancing figure sign were removed.

During this era, Texas fiddler Bob Wills and the Texas Playboys became Cain’s house band, putting the music venue on the map. Customers couldn’t get enough of Will’s Western swing, a fusion of country, jazz, and blues. After Bob and his band moved on in 1943, his brother, Johnnie Lee Wills and His Boys, took over as the house band. Regardless of which brother and their accompanying band took the stage, patrons filled the ballroom. Today, it’s The Turnpike Troubadours, a country music band hailing from Tahlequah, Oklahoma, that is pulling in the crowds.

While Cain’s has had periods of great success, it has also undergone times of great struggle. In fact, from the 1950s to the 1970s, the business changed hands numerous times, fell into a state of disrepair, had to compete with a brandnew local music venue, and lost their adjacent parking lot to I-244. However, in 1976, music promoter Larry Schaeffer acquired the business, renaming it “Cain’s Ballroom.” Business took off after Schaeffer booked an eclectic array of performers including Elvis Bishop, the Sex Pistols, U2, Pat Benatar, and Hank Williams Jr. In 1999, brothers Mark and Donny Finnerty bought and managed the venue until 2002. At that point, ownership transferred to the Rodgers, who are Tulsa natives.

Even though he had never been to Cain’s, neurosurgeon Dr. James Rodgers, affectionately nicknamed “Doc Roc,” decided to purchase the venue due to his passion for rock & roll. His son, Chad, was the only person in the family who had attended concerts at Cain’s.

“When we took over, my family and I didn’t quite realize how much risk there is in this business. We knew Cain’s was significant, but we didn’t realize how significant it was. When we bought it, it was really rundown. It was a massive undertaking, and it was a big risk on my family’s part,” explained Chad. “Our dad was just a doctor who loved music, and we all love the city of Tulsa,” said Chad. For a business to survive — and even thrive over the years — it must be something special. “They [people] love the history of the room. It has character, they all tell us. They can’t really describe it, but it talks to them. I mean, it’s like you’re walking back in time,” noted Rodgers.

In 2003, a “Walk of Fame” was added to the sidewalk outside the entrance, further celebrating the vibrant history of the venue and the many characters who carried the destination through its storied journey. Tulsa is no stranger to capturing its own history, what with its giants, fabulous neon, unique roadside attractions, and near-perfect stretch of Mother Road, but in truth, the city is made even better by being the destination to one of the coolest venues to call Route 66 home.

Visit ChoiceHotels.com/Missouri or call 1-877-424-6423 to get our lowest price guaranteed.**

*Rate Restrictions: Valid only for Choice Privileges members (program enrollment is free). The reservation must be made on ChoiceHotels.com at participating hotels and must be made at least 7, 14, 21 or 30 days in advance, which will vary based on the hotel for which a reservation is being made. Subject to availability, the rate starts at 15% off Best Available Rate, is non-cancellable, non-changeable and non-refundable. Your credit card will be charged for the total reservation amount within 24-48 hours of booking. This rate has a seven (7) night maximum length of stay. Rooms at this discount are limited. Offer is not available to groups and cannot be combined with any other discount. Choice Hotels reserves the right to change or discontinue this offer at any time. Eligibility restricted to U.S. and Canadian residents. Members must book direct at ChoiceHotels.com/Missouri or call 1-877-424-6423. All Choice Hotels properties are independently owned and operated. **Guarantee applies to Third Party Website standard rates for a Choice single or double occupancy room that are at least 1% and $1.00 less than the Choice rate. Claims must be submitted within 24 hours of booking and 48+ hours prior to 6 PM check-in time the day of hotel arrival. Other terms also apply; see www.choicehotels.com/legal/best-rate-rules for full terms and conditions. ©2024 Choice Hotels International. All rights reserved.

WHERE THE MOTHER ROAD AND MOTHER NATURE INTERSECT FOR SOME GREAT TIMES.

WAYNESVILLE, MO ROUTE 66

MOTHER NATURE’S HAPPY PLACE

Skip the interstate and take a trip down Historic Route 66 in Pulaski County! Our 33-mile stretch of classic Americana and breathtaking scenery is filled with delightful diners and dozens of shops, stops, and selfie opps that only these two moms can deliver.

Come Say “Hi” to our favorite moms. Plan your trip at pulaskicountyusa.com.

THE BUNION DERBY ���8:

It was the year of the infamous, history changing Atlantic flight of Amelia Earhart, and the year of the not-so-famously-remembered Bunion Derby. Originally known as the Trans-American Footrace, the race would span across continental U.S. over the course of three months, starting from Highway 66 in Los Angeles and ending at Madison Square Garden in New York City. In the end, it boasted of 3,423.5 miles of scenic roadways and big cityscapes, and an abundance of painful blisters.

The brains behind this ambitious idea was America’s first true sports agent and flamboyant promoter, Charles C. Pyle, better known as C.C. “Cash and Carry” Pyle — also remembered as the owner of the New York Yankees. He pitched the idea to the newly formed Route 66 Association in Tulsa as a publicity stunt to draw attention to the newly aligned Route 66, the fastest route from Chicago to Los Angeles. The route would lead contestants from California; through Arizona; New Mexico; Texas; and Oklahoma; all along Route 66; before crossing over the Mississippi River in St. Louis; then on towards Chicago; across Indiana and Ohio; into Pennsylvania; down into New Jersey and, finally, to the finish line in New York City. A race that would give “cross country” a more literal meaning.

A daunting race it would seem but Pyle, who touted it as the “greatest sporting event in history,” ensured that the basic needs of each of the participants was taken care of: runners would sleep in tents along the way, eat in chow-lines at designated points, and support teams would be on the ready to assist the weary or repair damaged shoes. The prize for the winner? A hefty sum of $25,000 — the equivalent of nearly half a million dollars today) — to the first-place winner. Though an inspired idea, the new route was not without its issues.

“A lot of [Route 66] was unpaved and others were in the process of being paved or even rerouted, so there was a lot of construction going on and more dirt; more gravel roadways than you would’ve had paved roadways,” said Jim Ross, Oklahoman author and historian. “The conditions for the runners weren’t that good. There were some detours [as well] because of road construction, but for the most part, they followed the pathway of 66.”

On March 4, 1928, 199 runners took off from the Ascot Speedway in Los Angeles. Among those competing were both Americans and non-Americans alike, with virtually every country in the world represented. Surveyors and fanatics had their favorites, and newspapers were early to cast their opinions on who the winner might be. But there was one particular contestant, a 20-year-old, part-Cherokee Indian man from Foyil, Oklahoma, who flew under everyone’s radar.

Andy Hartley Payne was a natural-born athlete. While other kids rode horses to school, Payne ran the distance from home to school and back again every day. He competed on the track team in high school and had a compelling motive for entering the footrace. In 1927, Payne was in California

looking for work and opportunity when he saw the race advertised in the local newspaper. Given his history as a local track star in high school and the pressing economic issues for his family, the race was a godsend; three months of racing seemed easier than three years of working off familial debts.

“He was young and decided to enter the race to save the family farm,” said Rhys Martin, president of the Oklahoma Route 66 Association. “The Paynes had a farm, but their house had burned down, and they were living in shambles, but they still had to pay the mortgage. So, when people say Andy paid off the mortgage, it was to save the family from ruin.”

In January 1928, Payne headed to Los Angeles running between 15 to 30 miles a day in preparation. His plan was to “stay close, and let the favorites burn themselves out,” while keeping his own timing and pace. His plan worked. He was virtually unmemorable the first day; Payne’s check in time into the first checkpoint was not even recorded.

The conditions of the road itself started to weed out the weak. 77 participants dropped out of the race after the first day, not able to withstand the heat of California’s Mojave Desert. The heat, wind, and dust made it hard for them to breathe, and rocky conditions littered legs with bruises. Pyle quickly acquired the nickname “Corns and Callouses” Pyle, and it was within that first week that the race became known as the Bunion Derby.

Payne slowly but surely started to make headlines, arriving in fourth place and jumping between fourth and first place for the remainder of the event. Within the first 400 miles, barely outside of California, only 102 “bunioneers” remained. Payne made his way to the number-two spot early in April, once he had reached Amarillo, Texas. By the time he entered his home state of Oklahoma, Payne was already a local hero of Will Rogers status. People lined up on bridges to watch him cross over the state line, schools closed for the holiday, and the governor came out to greet Payne as he crossed through Oklahoma City. By the time the racers made it out of Oklahoma, only 88 men remained.

On May 26, more than 20,000 people watched as the remaining 55 contestants left for the final lap to New York City. And then — 3,423.5 miles, 573 hours, 4 minutes, and 34 seconds, including five pairs of rubber-soled canvas shoes later — Andy Payne won the historic race with an almost 15-hour lead.

Although the Trans-American Footrace itself was hailed as a financial failure, for Payne it was a success. With his $25,000 win, he returned home, paid off his family mortgage, built a new family home in northeastern Oklahoma and cemented his name as an Oklahoma footracing legend.

Payne never ran competitively again. He married his high school sweetheart Vivian Shaddox that December and went on to hold the position of Clerk of the Oklahoma Supreme Court from 1934 to 1972. He passed away in December 1977 at the age of 70, leaving behind a legacy as one of the greatest runners in American history, most of that legacy was painted along the dirt roads of then, brand new Route 66.

Photograph courtesy of the Claremore Museum of History.

MOTHER

Photograph by David J. Schwartz - Pics On Route 66

JONES

The bright yellow and red historic Soulsby Shell gas station is synonymous with the small Route 66 town of Mt. Olive, but way before the Mother Road was aligned through town, Mt. Olive had its foundation in coal mining. Less than a mile from the historic station, visitors to the town will come across Union Miners Cemetery, the only labor union established and owned cemetery in the United States. Here they will find the gravestones of several miners who died in the Battle of Virden, fought in Virden, Illinois, on October 12, 1898.

But what stands out most is a 22-foot, 80-ton granite tower monument flanked by life-size bronze statues of a miner and a factory worker. This monument is dedicated to the memory of America’s most famous and charismatic labor movement organizer, a lady affectionately known as Mother Jones.

Mary Harris Jones was born to Richard and Ellen Harris in Cork County, Ireland. While her actual birth date is speculated, it is believed to be around 1837. Fleeing the ravages of the Irish Potato famine, the Harris’ and their five children emigrated to Canada and settled in Toronto where Mary attended school. By her early twenties, Mary was working in a teaching post in Michigan before moving to Chicago and earning a living as a seamstress. She later moved to Memphis, Tennessee, where she met and married George Jones, in 1861, an iron molder who was active in the International Iron Moulders’ Union. Through him, Mary got her first glimpse of the struggles that workers faced. The Jones’ had their first child in 1862, and three others followed over the next five years. However, tragedy would soon strike and decimate this growing family.

In 1867, a yellow fever epidemic hit Memphis and, within a week, Mary lost her husband and her four children — Katherine, Elizabeth, Terrence, and Mary — to the illness. Shrouded in grief, Mary never remarried and took to dressing in all black for the rest of her life, a look that would become her calling card. When the epidemic abated, Mary moved back to Chicago where she opened a dressmaking business. Misfortune would visit her again when her home and business burned to the ground during the Great Chicago Fire of 1871.

At 34 years of age, without her family, her business, or her home, Mary took to traveling the country from the 1880s to 1920s, during the industrialization period and amongst the greatest period of change in the labor industry. Almost immediately inspired to get involved in the ongoing labor movement, Mary reinvented herself as the mother of the downtrodden working class, fighting against long 12-hour workdays, low wages, and poor working conditions. She not only joined protests and demonstrations, but also became a full-time organizer with the United Mine Workers’ Union of America, participating actively in the mining wars in

Colorado, West Virginia, Pennsylvania, Kentucky, and Tennessee.

Fully embracing the role of Mother Jones, and with her war cry “Pray for the dead, and fight like hell for the living”, she quickly built a name for herself as a fearless, fiery orator with a powerful voice that could mobilize the masses. Well into her seventies and standing barely at five-feet-tall with curly white hair and dressed in all-black, accessorized with a lace collar and black hat, Mother Jones’ energy and passion inspired many men, women, and children even, placing her in the national spotlight as a ‘hellraiser’ battling industries and politicians, while giving the working class a voice. A small yet mighty force not to be ignored. She was regularly threatened, jailed, deported, and even labeled as “the most dangerous woman in America” by a U.S. district attorney.

“She really used her age and her gender to combat that and to organize people,” said Rosemary Feurer, director of the Mother Jones Heritage Project. “She didn’t think that any kind of reform was going to be enough. So, it was really important for people to put themselves on the line and to be brave, and that’s sort of how she pushed women, children, and men, and made them into organizers, and made them feel that maybe they’ve changed things.”

In 1923, at the age of 86, Mary gave a commemoration speech at the Miners Cemetery in Mt. Olive about the strikerelated violence in the area, dubbing the miners who were buried in the cemetery “her boys”. She later requested to be buried with the miners who she had championed for most of her life. Mother Jones died on November 30 th , 1930, at the age of 93, and was buried, as per her wishes, with her boys.

Greatly revered by miners and their families, locals and miners who protested alongside Mother Jones rallied enough donations, penny by penny, through the Great Depression to build a monument that would pay homage to the ‘Miner’s Angel’. On October 11, 1936 — celebrated as Miner’s Day — an estimated 50,000 people marched through Mt. Olive to pay tribute to their fierce champion at the Mother Jones Monument dedication ceremony.

“People who go there today and honor it,” said Feurer, “think about these poor people who wanted to put up a symbolic stone to make sure that others remember how hard people had to struggle for the basic things like an eight-hour day or better conditions.”

While Mt. Olive sits quietly along Route 66, a small town surrounded by vast, open fields, it hosts a tribute to a paramount figure in America’s narrative, Mary Harris Jones, aka Mother Jones, one of the most famous supporters of labor rights in America. So, if you’re ever in Mt. Olive, be sure to visit the Mother Jones Monument and revel in her legacy.

COMING BACK

BACK TO LIFE

Photograph by Efren Lopez/Route66Images

Albuquerque, New Mexico, may be bisected by the Rio Grande, but when it was founded in 1706, everything was on the east flank of the river in an area known fondly today as Old Town. By the early 20 th Century, a new downtown had grown farther east, but old and new were naturally connected by a historic trail that became the iconic Central Avenue. In fact, Central is the heartbeat of the city to this day, magnified by the fact it became Route 66 in 1937 when the Mother Road was re-routed through town. Instead of the original north-south passage along 4th Street, Old 66 spread its wings along what is actually the longest “Main Street” along the entirety of this heralded highway.

And, as in all cases, where there is money to be made from travelers, entrepreneurs quickly responded by building motels, diners, and gasoline stations. Many of them! At one time, there were more than 100 motels along this stretch. Sadly, only 30% of those remain today, and many have fallen into disrepair.

One of the survivors is, thankfully, the Monterey Motel, which sits on the south side of Central less than a half-mile from the Rio Grande Bridge. Records are contradictory as to the date it was built, but reliable sources indicate 1937, at which time it was known as Davis Courts, in keeping with naming motifs of the day. The name was changed to Monterey Court in 1939, and subsequently became the Monterey Motel in the 1950s. A mark of distinction is that it is one of the few Route 66 auto courts to be in continuous operation since its opening.

Jack Rittenhouse, author of the first known book to chronicle the Route 66 automobile experience, made note of the Monterey in the 1946 printing. He had driven reconnaissance missions along the highway several times in the years leading up to publication, taking detailed notes of many of the courts and motels along 66, including in Albuquerque. The list for the Duke City was long and carefully broken into east, central, and west listings; Monterey was already just one among many.

By the mid-1940s, Albuquerque’s population was 65,000; today, it is more than 560,000. While many travelers today stay at modern hotels along the freeways, the Monterey is alive and well, attracting overnight customers as it has for more than 80 years.

Ownership of the Monterey changed multiple times throughout its history. Vintage mid-century postcards, which reflected the name change to “Motel,” listed “Mr. and Mrs. Eddie Usnik, Owner and Mgrs.,” as well as “H.C. Whitfield, Owner and Operator.” It was under Whitfield’s ownership that it had become the Monterey.

As the mid-century years unfolded, the Monterey made improvements to its amenities and aesthetic to try to meet the expectations of a car-centric culture. In the late-1940s, a steel pipe car port was added, which still exists today. A swimming pool was added in the late-1960s, which also still exists.

Perhaps the longest tenure as owner was filled by Norman Bugg, a retired Navy Lt. Commander who found a second career in the hospitality business. Most notably, Bugg was responsible for breathing new life into the venue which, by

his time, was showing its age. He completely renovated the motel, and in the process earned a Triple Diamond rating.

Bugg then sold the Monterey to Miroslaw and Boguslawa Elencwajg, who renamed it Monterey Non-Smokers Motel. They maintained the same level of quality that Bugg had established, allowing the motel to retain a loyal clientele long after the freeway had claimed much of the tourist trade, particularly those who preferred a smoke-free environment.

In 2017, the motel was sold to Palindrome Communities. The company, based in Portland Oregon, had previously purchased El Vado Motel around the curve on Central, and had already begun extensive renovations of that property. El Vado reopened in 2018. Renovations on the Monterey began in 2020 and were completed in 2021. At this point, the Monterey was given an affectionate nickname: Momo.

The goal of the renovation project was to return the motel to its original appearance. “In contrast to the antiquated Southwest design of the El Vado Auto Court, the architecture of the Monterey took a more modern and minimal stylistic approach for its time, utilizing blank facades, structural columns, and minimal overhangs,” said India Archer, sales manager for Somos Destinations, a division of Palindrome.

Chad Rennaker heads up Palindrome, which is primarily a developer of new buildings, but Rennaker had fallen in love with the long-abandoned El Vado on a visit, purchased it, and found himself in the role of preservationist. Inspired by the progress with that property, he bought the Monterey with the same bold ambition to bring the property up to 21st Century standards, and thereby have two functioning retro-motels mere feet from one another.

“Similarly, to the effort of preserving the historic integrity and character of El Vado, Palindrome sought to reclaim the rarity of an intact and operational, historic building related to the auto industry on Route 66 in the Monterey,” Archer continued.

Part of the project involved replacing the oft-photographed neon sign, which had been damaged by a truck prior to Palindome’s purchase. A new sign — minus the reference to non-smokers — stands in its place, a throwback to the original sign that was erected in the Monterey’s early years. Workers also uncovered and restored the original overhang on the façade. Cosmetic work included new windows, restoring the original stucco finish, and restoration of the V-shaped supporting column in the car port.

An outdoor patio and the Momo Lounge were added, providing guests a place to socialize, drink, and eat. Lastly, an innovative new type of hotel experience was added in the rear of the property. The two-story structure, called “Stayats,” features a communal environment for groups, families, and travelers in general. Think hostelry meets modern lodging, with posh curtained bunk beds providing privacy, while at the same time never being far from others. And with these, the property steps into today’s competitive tourism market.

It is very likely that back in 1937, few would have guessed that the Monterey would one day become a vital part of a Route 66 revival along the city thoroughfare that made it all possible in the first place.

A STRIKING SIGN

It was the summer of 1958, and the Educators Investment Corp. began construction of a $500,000 entertainment center on original Route 66 — now known as NW 39 Expressway — in Oklahoma City. Marred by a union strike and fire, 66 Bowl, housed in the 25,636-squarefoot building, finally had its grand opening in March 1959. The complex was transcendent of its time, featuring 24 lanes, complete with automatic pin-setting machines and turntable ball returns, a 100-seat restaurant, and a lounge. There was nothing like it.

And to guarantee that the motoring public would have to stop in, an animated, eye-catching neon sign featuring an oversized white bowling pin and a red bowling ball surrounded by a yellow circle was installed. When lit, smaller bowling balls would move in a circular motion towards three knocked down pins. The entertainment and bowling center was an instant hit and became a favorite spot for OKC residents and travelers, often operating 24/7. Its neon sign soon became the most photographed sign on Route 66 in Oklahoma.

In 1978, Jim Haynes, a former bowling supply salesman and his wife, Peggy, purchased the business. A fierce storm in the early 1980s took out the original sign, but at the behest of loyal customers, Haynes replaced it with an exact replica. For residents of OKC and motorists, the neon sign became a significant landmark and for the next thirty plus years, 66 Bowl was an OKC staple; for first dates, birthdays, and even anniversaries. It was the place where, for generations, traditions were created, and family memories made.

But, after five decades, surviving two major robberies, a fire, and an investment that went bad, the Haynes were ready to retire. Failure to find anyone who would keep the bowling alley going, they sold it for $1.4 million to the Spices of India grocery in September 2010. And so, after 51 years of continuous operation, the alley would close its doors — forever.

Items and memorabilia from 66 Bowl were auctioned off one at a time, including the iconic sign that went to business partners Chuck Clowers and Cameron Eagle of Junk Yard

Daddies. It sold for $3,900. And that was the last anybody heard about the legendary sign until it showed up in Chandler, Oklahoma, a decade later.

“I have a photo in, I believe, Route 66 Sightings, a book I wrote with Jim Ross, that shows the neon sign when it was still lit, before they closed the bowling alley. I went to the auction and saw them auction everything off. And then the sign disappeared,” said Jerry McClanahan, author of EZ 66 Guide for Travelers. “I was surprised one morning when I drove into Chandler and saw it in front of the new facility. I had no idea it was going to be here.”

The vintage replica neon sign now stands tall in front of the new Route 66 Bowl in Chandler, owned by Sid Hayes, a known sign collector, and his wife, LaDonna Berry. Opened in 2021, the couple run it with two of their three sons. “Sid wanted something for all ages to enjoy, so he built not only a bowling alley, but an arcade, a laser tag arena, putt-putt golf, and a sit-down restaurant,” said LaDonna.

During construction of his destination, someone had contacted Sid in regard to buying the 66 Bowl sign, which was in dire need of repair. Sid agreed, refurbished the sign, and had the neon reinstalled.

Besides the 66 Bowl sign, there is an array of bright gas station signs in the parking lot, while indoors features old gas pumps and 2,000 other iconic signs which, to the best of the Hayes’ knowledge, are authentic. “Collecting signs is completely something Sid started, but I started to enjoy it with him, you know, riding along for an outing. And then it got fun to learn about the signs and how different companies timeline themselves by their logo and the remakes of their logo,” continued LaDonna. “Everybody in our family has been involved in this, but it is mostly Sid’s dream.”

And so, in a new era, with new stewards, that iconic 66 Bowl sign, a witness to young love, family memories, Oklahoma City and Route 66 history, will continue to stand sentinel, harkening back to the heyday of the Mother Road in the 1950s and 1960s, for generations to come.

Photograph by David J. Schwartz –Pics On Route 66.

The MOJAVE SCHOOL BUS

Spanning approximately 147 miles, the Mojave Road, aka Old Government Road, aka the Mojave Trail, cuts neatly westward just north of the town of Needles, finally ending around Wilmington, Los Angeles, as it makes its way through the high desert of California. This road has a rich history dating back to the time of pioneers, and one day in the 1980s — seemingly out of nowhere — a new piece of antiquity found its way to Mile Marker 37 along the road. Now permanently parked in the sandy desertscape of the Mojave National Preserve resides a 25-foot-long, ‘40s era landmark of rusted metal: the Mojave Road School Bus. Like many things in the Mojave, the bus has weathered both the elements and human interaction for decades, and boy, does it have a story to tell.

Time, along with the hot desert sun, has faded and peeled the once-yellow paint and the abrasive sand has corroded much of the metal.

Tipped on its side more than once over the decades, the school bus shows its age with various dents, a caved-in roof, innumerable bullet holes, and a barren interior. It is a haunting memorial to a busier time in the region’s history.

“You either love it or hate it, because it’s very ugly — aesthetically, it’s ugly,” said Laura Misajet, Director of Museum

fascination surrounding the bus as community members and those traveling through create their own stories of how it came to be.

In 2018, the bus that had presided at Mile Marker 37 for decades was removed from its roadside home as part of the continuous clean-up efforts of the site. Preparation for transferal of the parcel of land to the National Parks Service required pristine conditions, and the desolate school bus — a rusted, roadside hazard in the eyes of some — did not make the cut. Despite deflated wheels and no engine, the school bus made the journey from its place along Mojave Road to the Mojave Desert Land Trust (MDLT) headquarters in Joshua Tree in March 2018, but it wasn’t home yet.

“We were contacted by the Mojave Desert Land Trust, because… they removed the bus and they put it in their parking lot in Joshua Tree,” explained Misajet. “They didn’t want to keep it in their parking lot, so they figured that we would be a good option to have it in our museum, because we have a lot of outdoor museum artifacts on our property. So, they were thinking we were the best place for it and that people could come and see it.”

Operations and Public Outreach for the Mojave Desert Heritage & Cultural Association (MDHCA), where the bus resides. “It’s been out in the Mojave Desert who knows how long. People have been shooting at it, throwing it over, standing on it, so you can just tell it’s got a history to it. If it was just a regular old school bus, I don’t think anybody would look twice at it.”

Similar to other unusual artifacts and inexplicable marvels of the barren earth, the mystery surrounding the school bus has only added to its intrigue — drawing in curious tourists and invested locals alike. There are many theories as to where this mysterious bus could have come from and who could have left it on the roadside. Some speculate that its abandonment had something to do with the infamous Manson family, while others think it may have come from a long closed, local school. These theories further fuel the

The bus currently resides outside the Goffs Schoolhouse Museum — a historic 1914 one-room building, nestled on the southeastern edge of the Mojave National Preserve in Goffs, California. Today, the building acts as the town’s museum, archive, and tourist attraction. With an estimated population of 23, this almost-ghost town is full of rich history and quirky desert landmarks, which indeed makes it the perfect home for the Mojave Road school bus.

In a previous life, it is easy to imagine the bus full of laughing children, bumbling down a desert road, shuttling its young passengers to and from school. But those days are long gone, an echo of a more prosperous and hopeful past. Now permanently parked in Goffs, visitors come, not in droves but in quiet numbers to visit this landmark and soak in the decades worth of history. While the origin of the bus remains a mystery to all those who visit, it now stands as a treasured addition to the Mojave’s vibrant history.

Photograph by Brennen Matthews.

A ST. LOUIS

By Mitchell Brown

Photograph by Barkley Edison

ICON

St. Louis is no stranger to iconic food spots, and while it’s one of the largest cities in America, it has many locations that still carry the nostalgia of a bygone era. Located at the northeast corner of St. Louis Avenue and 14th Street, is one of those unique spots, Crown Candy Kitchen, a generational family-run business that has been welcoming visitors for over 100 years. While there may not be much to look at on the outside, once you step through its doors, that’s where the magic really comes alive.

It seems like time has altered nothing over the 100 plus years; old-timey music plays from the jukebox and the enticing scent of creamy milk chocolate and smoky bacon still wafts through the air. Wooden cases packed with chocolates and glass jars filled with an assortment of candies, including jellybeans and licorice bites, adorn the shelves. Malted milkshakes are still made the old-fashioned way and served in tall silver beakers. The seating, white wooden bench booths, are a throwback to timeworn charm. Here there is a call for a reminiscence of the untold stories the walls of Crown Candy Kitchen hold.

The history of this St. Louis landmark began in 1913, but the red brick building it occupies was built in 1880 by Charles Schlueter. Schlueter operated various businesses on the first floor, including a feed store, tailor shop, and shoe store, while the second floor was used as living quarters. The building stood within one of St. Louis’s most desirable shopping districts at the time. When Schlueter’s business outgrew the space, he sold the building to Harry Karandzieff, an immigrant from Macedonia who was in pursuit of the American dream of running his own business. The pleasant but humble building in a vibrant neighborhood seemed the perfect fit.

Karandzieff knew that he wanted to serve both sweet and savory items but was undecided about a name for the business. One day while cleaning the storefront, he found a weathered sign with a single word: CROWN. Inspired, he added the words “Candy” and “Kitchen,” and Crown Candy Kitchen was born. Karandzieff, together with his friend and business partner Pete Jugaloff — who’s also his relative and fondly called “Uncle Pete” — were soon in the throes of getting their candy store open. Karandzieff diligently studied the art of confectionery, while Jugaloff designed the soda fountain and candy cases, and built the work surfaces.

Sometime in the early to mid 1920s, Karandzieff married Eleni, also an immigrant from Macedonia, and together they had two children, George and Athena. Tragically, Eleni passed away from stomach cancer in 1926, when George was 13 months old, and Athena was three. Eventually, Karandzieff remarried another Macedonian widow, Aristica, in the late 1920s, and they had a son named William. The blended family, which included Uncle Pete, called the second floor living quarters home and together, embarked on the journey of making Crown Candy Kitchen a household name.

By age ten, George was working at the store, selling popcorn from a sidewalk machine and washing dishes. Throughout the years, Karandzieff taught his son everything he knew about the confectionery process, initially focusing solely on handmade chocolates, with Easter being their

busiest season. During the 1920s, homemade ice cream and plate lunches were introduced. George’s bubbly personality and strong work ethic made him a natural at the business, working seven days a week, even while attending school. His knack for making ice cream, candy specialties, and a gregarious personality that made customers smile, all lent to the store’s popularity and success.

However, in 1944, George took a leave from the business and joined the Army. After two years of service in World War II, George returned home, met and married Bessie De Polito in 1950, and together they had three sons: Mike, Tommy, and Andy. A new chapter of Crown Candy Kitchen was set to begin.

Karandzieff died in 1965, leaving the candy store to George, who became the real force behind the business. George developed the store into a beloved St. Louis’ destination, passing the passion and vision to his own sons. George’s stepmother, Aristica, passed away in 1974, and Uncle Pete, who had been part of the family business from the very beginning, died in 1984.

“I think when people are coming through, especially on [Route 66] we are definitely a destination place, just based on our location. Really there’s not a whole lot around us. We’re in an area called Old North St. Louis, and it was prime in its heyday, it was great, but things change, so it’s definitely a destination. During the summer when people are traveling and coming in or through St. Louis, they say, ‘We had to plan our trip to come here.’ But then of course, we have local customers, too,” said Sherri Karandzieff, who now runs the business with her husband, Andy, George Karandzieff’s son.

What really makes Crown Candy Kitchen special is the fact that after 110 years, it’s still a family-run business. In 1991, George and Bessie handed over the reins to their three sons. Sadly, George passed away in 2005, on Easter Sunday, after one of their busiest Easter seasons, and Bessie died in January 2023, but their legacy continues with Andy and Sherri at the helm. Although Mike died in 2012, the spirit of family involvement endures; Mike’s wife, Nancy, works three days a week, and Tommy offers his assistance. Additionally, all of the nieces and nephews have worked there.

“We don’t have children,” said Sherri, “but I feel like I have 20 of them that have worked with us, almost all of them have tenure of at least 15, 20 years. We hire from the neighborhood and then they stay. Andy, he’s like, ‘I’m gonna be 60 next year and we gotta have an exit strategy.’ But we’ve got some good kids in place, and you know, God willing, they will want to continue this tradition, and it will still be in the family.”

And so, the legacy of this St, Louis landmark continues. Minimal renovations had been made — during the war effort, the original metal tables were donated, and wooden booths were brought in, the original marble from the soda fountain was replaced with laminate — and the store remains as authentic to 1913 as possible. The tin ceiling, vintage jukebox, Coca-Cola collectibles, and the familiar outdoor green and white awning still characterize this century old beloved destination and will hopefully continue to do so for many more generations. Candy Crown Kitchen really represents a truly American story.

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AMERICA’S OLDEST HOUSE

America is a pretty old country. Not ancient like Greece or Turkey, but we do have a story to tell. Many actually. And one, very old, twostory structure at 215 East DeVargas Street, in the historic El Barrio de Analco District of Santa Fe, New Mexico has a tale to share that spans centuries. This humble looking building, known as the De Vargas Street House, has often been labeled the “oldest house in America,” and while the title can be contended, it underscores the layers of culture and time that have shaped this historic city and region.

Its story begins around 1200 CE when it is believed to have been part of an ancient Indian Pueblo. The arrival of Spanish settlers in 1610, and its survival of the Pueblo Revolt of 1680, saw the old, puddled adobe replaced with Spanish engineering; the rubble rebuilt with sun-dried mud bricks, wooden vigas (beams), and flat roofs. In the long reaching wake of the Mexican-American War, the Americans took hold of the area with the Gadsden purchase in 1854, repairing the building with new adobe and eventually coating it with stucco, in an effort to preserve the already ancient structure. Over the centuries, with layer upon layer of adobe and history, the house underwent various renovations and modifications, reflecting changes in ownership and the evolving needs of its occupants. These adaptations contributed to the house’s unique character as it took on the stories of the people coming through the City Different. So, while its actual age remains debatable, with oral history suggesting that the house has been standing since 1533, three years before the Chapel of San Miguel — the oldest church in America — it is without a doubt one of the oldest structures in Santa Fe.

Native American and Western collectibles. But when the historic hotel decided to renovate and turn Smith’s shop into their own gift shop, he had to find new premises. Luckily, the perfect one was close by and available.

“I was aware of the Oldest House — it’s one of the most historic structures in the city — as well as the church across the street, so I knew it had a very historic significance, but I became aware that it was for lease because I parked in a parking lot on the other side of the church,” recalled Smith. “I would close my shop at La Fonda, I would walk to my car, and I saw a sign on the door one day noting that it was for lease. I saw a lot of potential in it, so I contacted the property owners and got it.”

The Oldest House, though, is not just a shop for Smith: it is an antique wonder that attracts like-minded people with a fascination and love for all things historical. The eastern side is Smith’s curio and gift shop, while the west side, which has been left in its original condition — dirt floors, low ceiling, corner fireplace, and thick adobe walls — serves as a museum, open to the public, where people can explore its adobe rooms and gain insights into the architectural and cultural history of early Santa Fe.

In 1881, the house became the property of the Christian Brothers of the Catholic Church in Santa Fe who also owned The Chapel of San Miguel. The Oldest House was leased to an assortment of tenants over the decades, until 2015, when a lease sign on the door caught the attention of Winslow native, Rick Smith.

After college, Smith found himself in Santa Fe, at La Fonda on the Plaza, where he ran a small shop, curating and selling

“I love travelers and tourists, so I love to see their comments and expressions of curiosity, and sense of adventure when they come here. I love to see it, talk to them about it. Some people don’t care about it, history, but some people, like me, love the idea of standing on a spot where somebody stood hundreds of years ago. That sort of thing fascinates me, that I wasn’t there, but that somebody was in the same spot in the house [so] many years ago.”

A story that began nearly a millennium ago continues to unfold at the De Vargas Street House. With each generation, each set of footsteps that walks through, every story witnessed by the adobe walls of the Oldest House, a new historical record is formed. One that allows us to glimpse into the lives of those who came before and appreciate the enduring legacies that they left behind.

Photograph by David J. Schwartz –Pics On Route 66.

Still in Business

Glenn “Wrink” Wrinkle, the first owner of Wrink’s Market in Lebanon, Missouri, was best known for his friendly demeanor, a trait that only encouraged travelers on Route 66 to return. As most accounts would indicate, he was an overly joyous owner: easy to talk to, fun to be with, and an astonishing storyteller. Wrinkle was hard to miss with his large-rimmed glasses and beaming smile. Keeping the store running for 55 years, Wrinkle was a beloved presence to all who lived near or stopped by his landmark of a market, firmly putting the market on the Route 66 map.

Today, the historic Wrink’s Market stands with the Vintage Cowgirl, the connected vintage shop, with a main focus on the restaurant portion now. Operated by Katie Wrinkle, Glenn’s granddaughter, the destination stands as a reminder of the family’s influence on the small surrounding community of Lebanon and its continued prominence amongst the regulars.

“He was just so outgoing. He laughed a lot. He talked a lot. He had a lot of stories and was just helpful to everybody. He was just jolly,” said Katie, who manages the market today.

“Having been there from eight in the morning till 10 at night for all those years [only taking time off on Sundays], that’s what made it iconic, made it into a historic landmark.”

like a classic, family-owned grocery store with its rustic brick walls and white and teal stripped overhang at the front. It was the little grocery that the neighborhood kids could ride their bikes to, buy some candy or milk for their moms, and ride back home. A grocery and deli — hugely popular up and down the road — Glenn butchered all the meats and chicken, even the hamburger patties, for Wrink’s, himself.

Through his infectious smile and generous personality, he quickly built the shop’s positive reputation amongst Route 66 travelers, hence its popularity. Relying on word-of-mouth and Route 66 press, the store was able to build not only local loyalty, but a worldwide reputation with travelers.

Glenn passed away in 2005, leaving the historic market in the hands of his son, Terry, who reopened the location in 2007. However, shortly after the reopening, the shop closed once again in 2009. The family then — beginning in 2011 — rented the spot out to a few other businesses throughout the years, but Wrink’s was still very much in the hearts of this respected family.

Being native to Missouri, Glenn Wrinkle was born in Hazelgreen in 1923 before moving to Lebanon with his parents, G.E. and Laura Wrinkle, to operate the Jefferson Hotel & Cafe. After high school, Glenn served as a Staff Sergeant in the U.S. Army during World War II from 1943 to 1946. His father, G.E., began to build a hotel along the famed Route 66 in 1947, the perfect spot for a business. However, G.E., sadly, fell ill and passed before the building’s completion in 1948. But Glenn had a plan. Two years later, he decided to open his own grocery business in his father’s incomplete building. This would be a new venture for a man who had no prior experience in the industry.

First opening in 1950, Wrink’s Market operated on the eastern edge of town selling groceries. The building looked

Wrink’s Market reopened in 2017 under the direction of Katie Wrinkle. Her father, Eddie Wrinkle, and her stepmom currently own the location, but it was Katie’s idea to reopen the market in memory of her grandfather, having fond memories working alongside him as a child, adding her own twist to the shop today.

“I thought, ‘Well, shoot, I’ll combine my love of junk antiques with the store laid out the way it was, have a little bit of everything in here.’ Just like he did, just to bring the nostalgia back,” expressed Katie. “There’s just a community that comes out and helps out. They eat here, and they become our regulars. I figure, when the travelers start coming back, that’s what they want to see, the regulars here in the hometown, the community. That’s why I want to do it.”

Over 50 years since its opening, Wrink’s remains a special destination and a true success story along Missouri’s Mother Road. As Katie’s three daughters begin to work at Wrink’s, the path is set for a new generation to continue the market’s influence, blessed to be welcoming new or old customers with a familiar smile.

Words by Mitchell Brown. Photograph by David J. Schwartz –Pics On Route 66.

HORSEPOWERED HEARTBEAT

Remember when driving was a joy?

Back when you drove to escape, to feel that rush of freedom, or to connect with the person across that bucket seat from you. You’d share a smile when that one song came on; the stereo would get turned up, and windows would get rolled down. You can recapture that moment—or find it for the first time—on Route 66. Feel that horsepowered heartbeat that you’ve been missing in America’s Heartland.

Take the Scenic Route: VisitLebanonMo.org

TALK OF

THE TOWN

Photograph by Mollie Sample

The Mississippi River. One of America’s greatest waterways, flowing all the way from its start at Lake Itasca in Minnesota down to the broad Gulf of Mexico. Covering 2,350 miles, the Mississippi rivals Route 66, with its 2,448 miles of roadway, in terms of distance crossed and lives connected. And in the city of Galena, Illinois, the discoverer of the Mississippi is remembered well at the DeSoto House Hotel.

Born in Spain in 1500, Hernando de Soto followed in the steps of many youths from his social standing, as a modest noble in a poor region, fanning out to seek fame and fortune anywhere else. In De Soto’s case, anywhere else would take him far from home, across a broad ocean, and to a land brimming with possibilities for explorers. On the 8th of May 1541, De Soto arrived at the Mississippi River, being the first European to cross the largest river in North America. A year and thirteen days later, De Soto would end up succumbing to a fever on the western bank of the Mississippi, in what is now modern-day Louisiana, bringing an end to his journeys through the Americas. But the name De Soto would be remembered throughout history.

Far up along the Mississippi River in Illinois, the city of Galena, a small place of just a few thousand people, can be found. A prominent hub of river-based trade in the early to mid-1800s, the town found its roots in the lead mining business, named Galena for the natural form of lead sulfide, an important type of lead ore. Settled as early as 1690 by the French, acquired by the U.S. government as part of the Louisiana purchase in 1803, settled again by American settlers in the early 1820s, and incorporated in 1835. The city is considered to have been one of the most important cities in Illinois as a hub on the Mississippi River between St. Louis and St. Paul in Minnesota, reaching the height of its economic peak in the 1850s, right as the railroad was starting to make its arrival through the state. Eager to meet the railroad and show just how prosperous their city had become, the locally formed Galena Hotel Company built a grand hotel, taking inspiration from the presence of the nearby Mississippi and naming it the DeSoto House Hotel after the discoverer of the Mighty Mississippi. Soon after its opening in April of 1855, the DeSoto House became an important point of influence in the city.

“The hotel held quite a prominent place in the city of Galena, because people that came to town would stay at the hotel,” said Diane Feldermann, sales manager at the DeSoto House Hotel. “In July of 1856, Abraham Lincoln was here; he did a speech from a balcony very similar to what we have today on the front side of the building, to endorse John Fremont. Then, Ulysses S. Grant used two of our guest rooms up on the second floor as his campaign headquarters both terms when he ran for president. It was a really bustling, booming town and the DeSoto House was kind of a focal point.”

First leased to John C. Parks for a rent-free contract for two years, in exchange for furnishing the hotel, the DeSoto House would quickly be beset by as many tragedies as events of pride. A fire broke out in 1859 that tore through the northside of the hotel and spread to its upper floors, causing over $25,000 of damage that would inevitably result in the later removal of the top two floors of the hotel’s original six. Then in 1869, the explosion of a steam boiler in the hotel’s basement caused an unrecorded amount of destruction. As a place that once drew the attention of important political figures, the DeSoto began its long decline in the late 1800s. It was traded between one owner after another, after another, with several attempts at repair and restoration over the ensuing years. Eventually, the building was condemned at some point in the later part of the 1970s, but still it remained, waiting for someone to help raise this piece of Galena’s past from the annals of history and return it to the grand hotel it once was.

However, a pair of restoration efforts made in the later half of the 20th Century were what really saw the DeSoto House Hotel begin its rise once again. Galena’s mayor in the 80s, 81-year-old Frank Einsweiller, helped assemble the hefty $7.8 million needed to renovate the property over the course of a year from April of 1985 to 1986, and the Galena Foundation, a group of local business owners and appreciators of Galena’s historic past, acquired the property in 1989, including the current owner of the property, Dan Kelley.

“Mr. Kelley, he loves the history of this town,” continued Feldermann. “He’s a volunteer with the Galena Foundation, [which] has helped to preserve old buildings. And his love for Galena’s past has a lot to do with why he bought the property and wanted to restore it. They do a lot of work with old historic buildings and help out with fundraising to contribute to keeping some of the old buildings in town preserved.”

As of 1993, Kelly has been the sole owner of the hotel, helping maintain this piece of old America by preserving the historic Victorian style of the hotel, trying to keep the “vintage” feel, while keeping up with more modern appeals.

The DeSoto House Hotel is of a rare breed. Few buildings have a history that so elegantly encapsulates the full story of the U.S., centuries of stories etched into its stones. From the days of New World exploration to the rise of industrialization in the 19th Century, to the rougher years felt by so many in the first half of the 20th Century, to the return to greatness in the modern age. A central point of travel and trade, a hub of political glory, a home and place to rest for the common person and elite alike, all along a historic throughway of America that is as legendary as Route 66, the grand Mississippi River. Few places quite so beautifully keep the storied past of America alive as the DeSoto House Hotel, a living cross section that shows just how deep and rich of a history can be found anywhere you take the time to look.

Words by Aaron Garza.

A MYSTERIOUS PLACE

There’s a long-standing rumor about the Luna Cafe’s neon cocktail glass sign that shines brightly along Route 66 in Mitchell, Illinois. Supposedly, in the late 1940s, when the neon cherry lights glowed, the Luna served more than just steak and fine drinks. It wasn’t until years later that the truth would literally come to light, but this story is far more diverse and interesting than just that one fun tale.

Built in 1926 by Herman and Irma Raffaelle, the roadhouse — located in tiny Mitchell, approximately twenty minutes from East St. Louis, Illinois — was established the same year that Route 66 was formalized. The original two-story wood clapboard structure was simple at best. It consisted of a modest restaurant and public spaces on the first floor and bedrooms on the second. It wasn’t flashy, but it met the needs of the clientele at the time. The Raffaelles ran the business together until Herman’s death in 1937, and after that, Irma acted as the sole manager until four years later in 1941, when she married her second husband, George Dee Jones. During the 45 years that she owned the business, the Luna changed with the times, which included adding liquor, wine, and beer after Prohibition, and frog-leg dinners during the Depression era.

“Larry’s such a good man. Super down to earth guy,” said Joline Nolen Gentry, a loyal customer of the Luna since 2009. “He’s always willing to help people, and is just trying to keep his bar going, and make sure people are having a good time. He always wants to make sure you’re smiling in his bar.”

Although there haven’t been any major renovations, in the 1960s, a second neon sign was added to the front of the building. Like the original sign, it displays the name of the restaurant, but replaces a cocktail with a crescent moon. It’s fitting, considering the name Luna, which has Latin roots, meaning “moon.”

Over the years, the venue played host to a variety of characters ranging from railway workers, wealthy diners from Saint Louis, criminals, and even those reputed ‘ladies of the night’ who utilized the upstairs bedrooms. The story went that when the cherry on the neon cocktail glass sign was lit, the working girls were in. Legend also has it that the notorious mobster, Al Capone, gambled with fellow gangsters in Luna’s basement.

As eclectic travelers came and went, so too did the ownership. In 1974, Irma Jones sold the business to Chester Whyers. During the 1990s, the roadhouse changed hands multiple times, until 1998 when Al Young and Larry Wofford co-owned the Luna. Young eventually sold his share to Wofford who continues to operate the Luna to this day.

In the 1990s, the classic moon sign was damaged by a storm and the neon lights on the cocktail sign finally burned out. Fortunately, in 2011, the Missouri’s Neon Heritage Preservation Committee, along with the Route 66 Association of Illinois, and the Friends of the Mother Road, chose to restore Luna’s neon signs. As it turned out, the cherry and cocktail glass were on the same circuit; therefore, the cherry would not have been able to turn on/off by itself. Although the restoration potentially squashed any truth behind the rumor of illicit trade, the Luna light rumors continue to circulate, and continue to bring in tourists.

“We had four people from Denmark in here yesterday. We get them from all over the world actually,” said Wofford. “That’s a big deal for everyone from foreign countries. They like to arrive here on Route 66. They’re curious to see it and it’s pretty interesting to talk to them. I usually sit around and talk as long as they want to listen to me. They ask a lot of questions and I give them all the answers that I can. It’s soon to be 100 years old. Under the same name. The Luna Cafe. It’s antiquated. When you walk in you can tell right away it’s been around for a while. It’s got all kinds of things on the walls, license plates, different pictures, a lot of beer lights, all that kind of stuff. It seems like everyone likes it that way, though.”

As you motor down Illinois’s wonderful stretch of Route 66 and come up to the elaborate, colorful vintage neon sign proclaiming Luna Cafe, do stop in, and enjoy a nice cold drink with a side of tantalizing Midwest history.

Photograph by David J. Schwartz –Pics On Route 66.

“In telling the story of his African family’s journey on Route 66, Brennen Matthews has made an important contribution to the legacy of the highway. He offers both a new voice and a new look at the Mother Road.”

—from the foreword by Michael Wallis, New York Times bestselling author of Route 66: The Mother Road

“An impassioned and engaging road trip along and deep inside Route 66, with a bright, thoughtful guide and his engaging family. If you ever want to travel the Mother Road yourself, it would be a terrific, quirky guide. If you don’t have the time to make that quintessential American drive, the book is as close as you’ll come to experiencing the sheer wonder of it.”

—Stephen Fried, New York Times bestselling author of Appetite for America: Fred Harvey and the Business of Civilizing the Wild West— One Meal at a Time

“Miles to Go fills my heart with the freedom of being back on the road. Reading Brennen Matthews’s story has time traveled my mind to when I drove Route 66 as a teenager and transported me back to all the unique places, the rich characters, and the smell of freedom that only America has to offer. What a joy to feel that once more. Route 66 is the artery of Americana and is now calling my name again. Here I go . . .”

—Jim Belushi

Miles to Go is the story of a family from Africa in search of authentic America along the country’s most famous highway, Route 66. Traveling the scenic byway from Illinois to California, they come across a fascinating assortment of historical landmarks, partake in quirky roadside attractions, and meet more than a few colorful characters.

Brennen Matthews, along with his wife and their son, come face-to-face with real America in all of its strange beauty and complicated history as the family explores what many consider to be the pulse of a nation. Their unique perspective on the Main Street of America develops into a true appreciation for what makes America so special. By joining Matthews and his family on their cross-country adventure, readers not only experience firsthand the sights and sounds of the road, but they are also given the opportunity to reflect on American culture and its varied landscapes. but a tale of hopes, ambitions, and struggles. It is the record of an America as it once was and one that, in some places, still persists.

With more than 300 days of sunshine a year – and a unique mix of tranquil waters, rugged mountains, and tons of fun – it’s hard to stay inside. Discover Lake Havasu City – just a short drive from Route 66 – and play like you mean it.®