Braidwood’s Beacon

By Ale Malick Opening photograph by Efren Lopez/Route66Images

BRAIDWOOD’S BEACON

The path of legendary Route 66 was determined by logistics, local business, alreadyestablished roads, and the decisions of highway associations and state highway departments. But one of the things that undeniably preserves the Mother Road in lore is the iconic roadside eatery. Whether an early version of the food truck, a cobbled-together small roadside stand, or a sleek dining establishment, Route 66 is most definitely known for one of the most beloved remnants of mid-century America, diners.

As the reality of paved, contiguous highways opened the country up to people in a way it never had before, those travelers needed somewhere to sleep and to eat. Roadside stands and drive-in restaurants became essentials for salesmen to continue to expand their businesses, for families moving toward a new life, or vacationers just out to explore the country. It kept them watered and fed.

Up in the Route 66 town of Braidwood, Illinois, one such diner has stood the test of time and has become a strong symbol of American life — the Polk-A-Dot Drive In.

Where the Story Begins

1956 was an exciting time for businesses located along Route 66. This was the period when families flush with cash and enthusiasm were taking to the road in droves to explore America. They were hungry to taste and experience America, and what better route to use than the Mother Road. Up near the start of the route, not far from Chicago, Wilmington local, Chester “Chet” Fife knew a good thing when he saw it and was getting ready to open a roadside eatery of his own — well, actually, a white school bus — to tap into the many Route 66 motorists that were regularly passing through town. His choice location was the town of Braidwood. Fife fitted the bus with a grill, an ice cream machine, and a pop machine, and he customized a window so that people could walk up to the bus and buy their food.

A man with vision and patience, Fife started small, mainly selling hot dogs, sandwiches, ice cream, and sodas. His sister Sylvia painted huge colorful polka dots on the exterior of the bulky vehicle, choosing colors based primarily on the paint that she already had on hand. This action would have unexpected consequences when an inspired Fife christened his school bus diner the Polk-A-Dot. Every day, Fife, who lived in nearby Wilmington, would drive his bus to Braidwood, do business all day, and cart the quirky vehicle back home when the sun went down. Business was good, and in 1962, an ever-ambitious Fife was eventually able to build and move his operations into something more permanent in the same spot where the bus had been parked.

Although the revamped Polk-A-Dot still only offered walkup service, with no indoor seating, it now had a new kitchen that could provide deep-fried food. Fife continued to expand, setting up a seating area with an awning, so that it slowly began to resemble the drive-in that we know today. At the time, the Polk-A-Dot had established itself as the only fastfood eatery in Braidwood.

New Blood

By 1972, change was in the air. Almost all segments of original Route 66 had been bypassed at this time by a modern four-lane highway, and a local couple’s future was about to collide with the Polk-A-Dot’s.

Judy Chinski had lived all her life in Braidwood. She and her husband Daniel had three children and Judy was busy pursuing a career as a beautician in her mother’s beauty shop. However, now in her 30s, she had a hunger for something more, something of her own. Perhaps she got that entrepreneurial spirit from her parents, Kathryn and John Dixon, who had owned a successful tavern and restaurant, aptly called Dixon’s, when she was a kid. “Like they did years ago, [our] house was in the back of the tavern. My mom ran the restaurant, and my dad ran the tavern,” shared Judy.

In a stroke of what could only be serendipity, Judy heard in passing that the local drive-in restaurant was up for sale. “I just decided that I wanted to do it. And my husband agreed. The kids were old enough, they were all in school, so it was no problem. I came and looked at it, talked with the people that owned it, got my husband to come and look at it. And we decided that this might be a thing for me as my job,” Judy said. So, in 1972, they became the proud new owners of the Polk-A-Dot Drive In.

Judy dove right into running the drive-in, though only through the summer months. “We were open maybe May through September. We weren’t a full-time restaurant. There really wasn’t a lot here. We just had the cooking equipment, ice cream machine, grill, seating for about thirteen people, and an old jukebox machine.”

Even so, the restaurant took off and business boomed. It seemed like the perfect fit for the daughter of a successful restaurant owner, but with a new baby in the family and Daniel working a full-time job, it was just not feasible to keep it open. A decision was made to sell and close their chapter in the Braidwood food business. In 1978, the drive-in was purchased by Pat and Angelo Bianchin.

However, the Polk-A-Dot was not yet done with Daniel and Judy Chinski.

That funny little word, serendipity, would waltz back into their lives once again. Less than nine years later, in 1987, the Chinskis would repurchase the Polk-A-Dot, although this time, they went into partnership with Judy’s brother John and his wife Cathy.

“I have no idea why we decided to buy it again. It must be in our blood. My brother John approached the people that I had sold to, and they were interested in selling,” said Judy. “And from there we decided to go ahead with it because Cathy and I were both able to work. Now, my daughter, Judiann, manages the Polk-A-Dot.”

Time for Some Reinvention

In 1994, with some healthy competition from a new McDonald’s across the street and an eagerness to innovate, the Polk-A-Dot changed its appearance and persona once again. True to the essence of the business, Judy and Cathy didn’t try to modernize and shiny up their little drive-in. For these Braidwood locals, they thankfully decided to look to the past for inspiration.

“When we first took it over, it had five booths, so seating for about thirteen, fifteen people,” said Judy. “We didn’t even have public bathrooms at that time. McDonald’s was going in across the street and we knew in order to keep our business, we had to do something. So, we decided that all had to be upgraded. That is when we built on, bought the statues, and totally turned it into a ‘50s diner.”

One can often get an idea of the culture and mood of a venue once they step inside. Is it fine dining, a greasy spoon, or perhaps something a little more unique? Inside of the drive-in, there is no confusion on the experience that customers should expect. The drive-in now accommodates seating for ninety and the walls are covered in pictures

Outside stand life-size icons of yesteryear.

of American icons like Buddy Holly, Steve McQueen, and Charlie Chaplin. On every table is an original table jukebox, reminiscent of the 1950s experience and sourced from all over the world. “We have a lunch counter across the front like they had years ago, with stools, we have three children’s booths for little kids, and one tabletop with stools that are kid-sized, and they are occupied at all times. The kids really love them.” But there was one particularly personal touch for Judy. “When they tore down the building that housed my parents’ tavern/restaurant, it was all glass blocks in the front that my dad had put in in the 1950s. When it was demolished, Dad saved them all, and put them into storage. We got them out, cleaned them up, and the builders incorporated it into the new building for us.”

Outside the eatery, life-size statues of Marilyn Monroe, Elvis Presley, James Dean, Betty Boop, and the Blues Brothers circle the building, the perfect hosts to welcome visitors. Soon after, the ladies added another new addition to their exterior: a 15-foot Elvis Presley who stands guard at the start of the driveway, right on Route 66. “My brother found [Elvis] over in the LaSalle area and brought him home on the back of a U-Haul. He took a backhoe and actually slid that thing into place and didn’t drop him. It was amazing to witness. People were everywhere watching when he was putting Elvis into place. We even had to block off one end of the driveway. We also have a telephone booth that my brother had out in his garage, and a statue of Superman that we put up around 2017, and in the background, we have the Daily Planet,” Judy added proudly.

The updated look and vibe fit perfectly along Route 66 and attracted patrons right away. Even though they were not thinking of international travelers when they were renovating, the throwback to 1950s nostalgia really appealed to international visitors. This strategic decision allowed the Polk-A-Dot to not only remain open, but to thrive as domestic and international visitors continue to discover the little spot in Braidwood, making it not just a place to get a drink or a bite to eat, but a destination in and of itself. “One of the visitors that I liked the best was a man from Australia. He had a Marilyn Monroe tattoo over his heart. He asked if I would be offended if he took his shirt off and showed me. It was beautiful. It was amazing to see what people will do,” Judy commented.

Here to Stay

The lovable figures, the soft glowing pink neon around the roofline, and the giant, perfectlylit Route 66-shield sign that spins high in the sky above the venue, are such a fixture of this stretch of the Route now, that even when the drive-in is closed, the parking lot is full of people stopping for the perfect photo opportunity.

The Polk-A-Dot Drive In, like many of the important stops on Route 66, is a family affair. “It’s a family-run business; almost all of our kids have worked here, even our grandkids have worked here,” said Judy. “My sisterin-law, Cathy, is my business partner, and my brother is involved; he and my nephew do all the maintenance on the building. My youngest daughter manages the staff, and my husband Daniel was involved before he passed.” This isn’t just limited to her own family either. “I have employees here now that I have hired their children, that’s how long we’ve been here.”

Like many destinations along the Mother Road, the name and the outside image of the Polk-A-Dot can be found in many a book and website, but very little is actually documented about the people behind the historic eatery. As we lose Route 66 saviors, and their history and stories disappear with them, an important piece of America’s journey is disappearing, too. Thankfully, the Polk-A-Dot has numerous ambassadors who will continue to not only welcome patrons from far and wide, providing a memorable mid-century dining experience, but share and celebrate a small piece of Illinois 66 that all started with a dream, a vision, and an old school bus with some overly large hand-painted polka dots.

JOHN’S MODERN CABINS

Words by Joe Sonderman Photograph by Brennen Matthews

JOHN’S MODERN CABINS

John’s Modern Cabins east of Arlington, Missouri, are a link to the evolution of accommodations on Route 66 from the modest cabins to the space age motels and the modern chains. They were affected by each distinct era of Route 66 history: the Great Depression, the Boom Years, the Interstate Era, and even a revival.

Tracing the history of these structures and the roads in front of them baffles even the experts. From the way things appear, the road in front of the cabins should be Highway 66. That’s not the case because the roads and the cabins have been moved repeatedly. But don’t believe your eyes. The crumbling road in front never carried Route 66.

In the Ozarks during the 1920s, farmers had started putting up a cabin or two and entrepreneurs moved in to serve the increased number of travelers on the road. They used whatever materials were handy and cheap, particularly the native sandstone. Schuman’s Tourist City in Rolla reportedly used converted chicken coops! Simple log cabins were probably the most economical of all, and as the Great Depression held the nation in its grip, a simple roadside cabin with a privy out back was all many travelers could afford.

The Bill and Bess Log Cabin Camp opened in 1931, two miles east of Arlington on original Route 66. Operated by Bill and Beatrice “Bess” Bayliss, it originally included six cabins, a service station, and a dance hall. It was a rough and tumble joint almost from the start. Bill and Bess were robbed of a large sum of money on June 18, 1932, by a hitchhiker who evidently “was well informed of the habits of its owners.” He was seen coming down the road to the juke joint, and by the time Mrs. Bayliss opened the rear door, he ran out the front and got away in a big red car that stopped about 100 yards down the road. It was reported he took a quarter from a little girl a short time before the robbery.

On October 31, 1935, a Halloween dance was in full swing at the Bayliss place. At about 11 PM, 18-year-old Wilma “Billie” Douglas went into the fireplace room. As she sat with friends, the door flew open and her estranged husband, 22-year-old Eugene Duncan, fired two or three shots. Billie was shot in the head and died at a Rolla hospital. In April 1936, a few days before he was slated to stand trial, Eugene Duncan pleaded guilty to second-degree murder and was sentenced to 50 years in prison. He was paroled after 13 years, became a mechanic, remarried, and lived to age 60.

Tragedy struck again on January 11, 1938, when a Pulaski County Deputy Sheriff was killed by his own gun in a freak accident outside the Bayliss place. Walter Tyler and Dick Gray had gone to Rolla for some business. On the way back, they stopped at the Bill and Bess Filling Station for a “Coke.” They came out to find the starter on the vehicle was stuck. Walter climbed onto the running board and began shaking the vehicle, in hopes of disengaging the starter. His gun fell out of the shoulder holster, hit the fender of the vehicle and fired. Walter was hit in the stomach and died almost instantly.

When Bill put the place up for sale in August 1939, he advertised it as a tourist camp and filling station, including a nice dance hall and restaurant with “A good reputation!” It was just before traffic increased dramatically on Route 66 due to the construction of Fort Leonard Wood. There was a critical housing shortage and anything with a roof was rented by the week or month.

The years after World War II are considered the golden age of Route 66. America hit the road in record numbers and the rising middle class demanded more amenities on the way. Motels turned to regional architecture and themes as well as flashing neon to grab the traveler’s attention. Mom and pop places would have found it much more difficult to compete. By this time, it is likely that the Bayliss place would have been mostly rented to hunters, sportsmen, and the occasional local. Ownership of the complex changed multiple times.

In 1951, John Dausch retired from Chicago with his wife Lillian and bought the place for $5,000. He renamed it John’s Modern Cabins and constructed three wood frame cabins to the right of his new neon sign. Business remained brisk because Ft. Leonard Wood was reactivated during the Korean War.

A large cabin served as their home and John added a laundry room and a snack bar/novelty shop. Dausch also turned to liquor sales to boost income. He reportedly became known as “Sunday John” because he flouted the law against selling alcohol on Sunday. His beer license was suspended at least once for selling to a minor. A rusty and barely legible Falstaff sign lay face down in the leaves behind the store as a silent testament to those days.

Route 66 continued its evolution as the higher speeds and increased traffic rendered the old two-lane obsolete. That meant dramatic change soon after the Dausches arrived. In 1952, a new set of lanes was constructed for westbound traffic, forcing the remaining cabins to be moved back. The dance hall and the service station were demolished. The gas station sign post is still on the property, lying behind the cabins.

The Interstate Highway Act of 1956 spelled doom for Route 66 and many of the businesses and even entire towns that relied on the traffic. It took a few years for that change to arrive on this Ozarks hillside, but for John’s Modern Cabins, it became a fight for survival that was ultimately lost.

Lillian died in October 1968 and John finally closed the cabins as his health failed as well. He died on October 21, 1971.

Since the 1970s, the remnants of John’s Modern Cabins near Arlington have been slowly returning to nature. Just one cabin, the faded sign, laundry building, and a couple of old privies still stand. In 2018, a group of volunteers arrived to do some restoration work at the site, stabilizing, shoring up, and water sealing the one remaining cabin. Tree branches endangering the sign and mounds of dangerous debris were also removed. That single cabin will now be a symbol of how life along Route 66 is always changing, and why we should explore the old highway now, while we still can.

Interpreting the Mother Road

The Route 66 Interpretive Center in Chandler, Oklahoma is, of course, designed to preserve the history of the “Mother Road,” but also to immerse visitors in an interactive experience that fosters not only an understanding of the past, but the current vitality and importance of the route today.

The Center is located in a building that itself is a part of Oklahoma history. Built as a WPA project in the 1930s, the structure was an armory that housed the Oklahoma National Guard from 1937 until 1972. Originally designed by architect and National Guard major Bryan W. Nolan and built with local sandstone, the armory was built in two sections. The eastern half, much of which is now used as the Interpretive Center, was dedicated to offices, classrooms, and other smaller rooms. The Chandler Chamber of Commerce and the Oklahoma Route 66 Association are also now housed in this portion of the venue. The western half of the building was mostly an open drill hall and is these days used as an 8,000-square-foot event center. From the outside, the building is imposing but picturesque, and the perfect home for Chandler’s love letter to Route 66.

By around 1971, the City donated the land for the new armory to the Guard, and in exchange, the Guard deeded the old location back to the City. Constructed for strength and longevity with hand-chiseled, twenty-inch thick stone walls, the building saw sporadic use for other purposes during the ensuing years, but eventually fell into disrepair.

By the 1990s, even though it had been listed on the National Register of Historic Places, there was some discussion by the City Council of tearing the old facility down. However, in 1998, some local residents got together to save the historic structure. They formed the Old Armory Restorers, a name that pointedly described their purpose, and began a volunteer effort to repair and bring the old building back to life. The group was able to secure various grants and matching funds from state and federal agencies to assist with the expenses of the refurbishment.

The chairman of the group, Howard Dickman, had the vision of creating a center that would celebrate the importance of Route 66. The group hired Hans Butzer, the architect responsible for conceiving the plans for the Oklahoma City National Memorial and Museum, as the principal designer for the center. His idea was to create a venue that complemented other Route 66 museums with a unique, sensory experience.

In addition to photographs, artwork, and artifacts depicting life on Route 66, the center features several short films showcasing different facets of the highway’s importance. Creatively, visitors experience these films in sets of car seats corresponding to different eras of the road’s history, and even while reclining on vintage motel beds — a nod to the motor courts of the past. There’s also a longer film, shown in a more conventional theater setting, which chronicles a man’s journey on Route 66 in 1959, then the differences that he encountered on his return to the highway forty years later.

The iconic highway is an attraction for people from every corner of the globe, and the Chandler Interpretive Center is doing its best to help visitors understand its importance.

“We moved here in 1998 from Oklahoma City, and my husband was on the restoration committee,” said Executive Director Susan Pordos. “It was so neat to see the transformation. It just keeps getting better and better, and bringing more people to town. I’m very thankful because I know that there are a lot of places along the Route where businesses aren’t doing very well, and I’m thankful that we are. I was just looking at our visitors list, and we’ve had people from all over the United States, and from Spain, the Czech Republic, England, Belgium, and Ireland, all in one day. It’s amazing that people take off two or three weeks just to tour Route 66.”

Oklahoma is home to some of the best Route 66 museums on the old highway and is blessed with an enviable amount of unique history and colorful roadside stops, but the Chandler Interpretive Center, rather than competing with the other, perhaps more familiar stops, blends nicely into the state tapestry, offering visitors and locals alike, the opportunity to interpret Route 66 through a slightly different lens. Its visionary promoters can feel proud that tiny Chandler is doing more than its part to celebrate America’s most iconic road.

THE WILD ASSES OF OATMAN

In 1863, in the wilderness of Arizona’s Black Mountains, a man named Johnny Moss discovered large deposits of gold, a find that would gross over $700 million in today’s currency. As a result, he set up a few mining camps in the area — one named after himself, and one named for a young girl, Olive Oatman. Her brutal story of capture by Tolkepayas Indians and then release by the more friendly Mohave, is one that still fascinates people.

These days, the mines of Oatman are no longer in use — there are still over 3,000 mineshafts in and around the town — but it does have something that many other places do not, and the camp’s 130 residents have wisely grabbed hold of an opportunity.

In the early days of the mines, burros (Spanish for donkey) were highly depended on. They would carry heavy tools, draw wagonloads of ore, and were overall an extremely important link in the mining process. However, as technology advanced, the burros became obsolete with the advent of machines that could do their work. As there was nothing much for them to do, the miners simply let them loose to roam freely in the Black Mountains. Today, the descendants of those original burros still wander the streets of Oatman, greeting residents and welcoming tourists.

“There are about 3,000 wild burros in the hills around Oatman,” said Leanne Toohey, the Secretary of the Oatman Chamber of Commerce and Director of the Historical Society. “They’re all truly wild; we don’t keep them in pens at all.”

Protected by the Bureau of Land Management and well taken care of despite their feral nature, many of the local shops are themed around the animals. Local business owners are well aware of the draw to their little community that the donkeys have become. And the burros appear quite aware as well. They have undeniably made the streets of Oatman their own, blocking traffic, begging for food, and resting as they see fit, on the boardwalks or in the middle of the road. But residents and visitors don’t really mind. After all, this is what they’ve come to see.

But, when the day’s commotion is over and the many vehicles have left, back to Kingman or onward to California, the animals simply make their way out of the town and back into the wilderness of the Black Mountains. The village then becomes quiet once more and its Old West atmosphere truly envelops its deserted streets and classic shops.

Come the next day, they magically reappear and begin nuzzling visitors once again. There is one story though that has generated attention in many facets, from social media to literary and beyond: the tale of Walter.

“Walter was born here in July of 2019. His mom was really young and rejected him, so he was left alone to die,” said Toohey. Burros are territorial and herd-oriented, and because he wasn’t raised by the herd, he has not been accepted. “It’s dangerous for him to walk around town by himself.”

Oatman locals Brad and Kelly Blake found him that summer and took him in, raising him alongside their three German Shepherds. He acts like a dog now, and, because he’s domesticated rather than wild, he is usually referred to as a donkey. But his story is one that draws tourists from all around simply to meet him. Nearly every day, the Blakes livestream Walter and his German Shepherd siblings going for their evening walk together around their home. His story has inspired a children’s book series, the first of

which is entitled Walter Finds a Home.

“Walter is our local celebrity,” said Toohey. “His is such a feel-good story that people who have been following it on social media will come to Oatman just to see him.”

Recently, the town went as far as characteristically naming Walter its mayor. An odd decision, perhaps, but as the figurehead of the town it does make some sense. Oatman has survived for close to 160 years by adapting to the challenges and opportunities that the community has encountered. In 2022, they are continuing to use their serene spot nestled in between Arizona’s picturesque Black Mountains, a place that Route 66 once ran straight through, and their unique mining history, to their enviable advantage. Much has changed in the world around them, but ask the burros and you will discover that much in their isolated world has remained just the same. And that is the way the residents — people and burros alike — enjoy it.

Tania ARMENTA

Albuquerque is a city with a romantic name. As the largest town in New Mexico, it is a magical blend of both old and new, of history and diverse cultures and its fair share of Route 66 stops and destinations.The Old Town area is traditional and picturesque, dotted with little stores and shops, and lined with quaint narrow streets that lead to hidden treasures. Away from the historical parts of the town, Albuquerque is a bustling city where the longest street in town, Central Avenue, was once known simply as Route 66. In this Parting Shot, get to know Tania Armenta, the woman behind the marketing of this mesmerizing town that allows visitors to come face-to-face with life in the region.

What did you want to be when you grew up? I knew from a young age that I enjoyed being creative and was interested in marketing. I even created some radio commercials that made it on the air at the age of 12. Most famous or noteworthy person you have ever met? Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson. What characteristic do you respect the most in others? Trustworthiness, integrity. Dislike in others? Being overly negative. What characteristic do you dislike in yourself? I can be a procrastinator at times. Who would you want to play you in a film based on your life? Helen Hunt. Talent that you WISH you had? The ability to expand time. Best part about getting older? Gaining wisdom and experience. What would the title of your memoir be? Grit, Kindness, Passion, and a Dose of Fret. What is your greatest extravagance? A good facial, and I love shoes and handbags. What is the weirdest roadside attraction you’ve ever seen? The Very Large Array, the Route 66 Musical Road, and the Four Corners Monument. If you could change one thing about yourself, what would it be? To fret a little less. What do you consider your greatest achievement? My kids, my family. Most memorable gift you were ever given? I loved all the handmade gifts my kids gave me when they were younger. What is the secret to a happy marriage? To grow together and respect your differences. Most memorable hotel/motel that you have stayed at? Hotel Andaluz in Albuquerque and the El Rancho Hotel in Gallup, NM. What breaks your heart? Seeing people suffer. What is the last TV show you binge- watched? Yellowstone and This is Us. What is still on your bucket list? To travel more. What do you wish you knew more about? Geography and history. What is something you think everyone should do at least once in their lives? Travel to broaden the mind and experience. What fad or trend do you hope comes back? I love red lipstick, so I hope that is always deemed stylish. What does a perfect day look like to you? Sitting near some water and relaxing with good food and drink with my family—and likely some water sports mixed in. What is the most unexpected surprise about Albuquerque? That we have four distinct yet mild seasons and a gorgeous mountain that defines our city. What is your favorite spot to visit in Albuquerque? I am a big fan of patio dining with a good view of the Sandia Mountains. What would your spirit animal be? A Palomino horse. Which historical figure — alive or dead — would you most like to meet? Princess Diana. If you won the lottery, what is the first item you would buy? A trip for my family to take together. First big-ticket item that you ever purchased? A house. What meal can you not live without? I love green chile! Bizarre talent that you have that most people don’t know about? A pretty good memory. Not sure that qualifies as bizarre, but it helps with music lyrics for just about any song. What makes you laugh? Memorable inside jokes or remembering good times. Most unknown (but should be) stop in New Mexico? There are quite a few places that we’d like to keep a secret because they are just so good. Most important life lesson? An appreciation for loyalty and integrity. One thing you have always wanted to try, but have been too afraid to? Scuba diving. What do you want to be remembered for? Being true to my word.