Rags no Bones Trend Forecast Autumn/Winter 16-17 for Billy Reid Ruth Rangel 1
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Contents Page 4 - 5 Trend Introduction 6 - 13 Aspirational Brand 14 - 19 Autumn Winter 15/16 Catwalk Focus 20 - 29 Colour Inspiration 30 - 39 Material Inspiration 40 - 45 Key Silhouettes 46 - 59 Range Plan 60 - 61 Billy Reid Autumn Winter 15/16 Collection 62 - 63 Customer Profile 64 - 67 Market Place 68 - 73 Future Marketing 74 - 75 Marketing Proposal
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Concept
The trend takes its inspiration from the American Deep South’s cultural history and legacy. Influenced by musicians such as Raury, Benjamin Booker and James Bay portraying a laidback lifestyle. Paying attention to excellent handcraftsmanship, favoring less clean cut designs for visibility in age and wear in the garments Carrying African and Native American cultural references with them, these consumers appreciate the slower-paced lifestyle and unique culture and history of the American South. This trend is re-appropriating the South’s dynamic culture. This sense of aged tradition is absorbed where garments are favoured when carrying a sense of wear and age. “Silhouettes are loose or unstructured, proportions are played with, materials are tactile and contrasted and pattern references are widespread, but that low-fi ease is never lost”
Influences • American Deep South • Benjamin Booker • Raury
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“Practical and comfortable but in an elegant, effortless way” - WGSN
Mood Down to earth bohemian. Appreciation for heritage.
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Aspirational Brand
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Aspirational Brand
2015 - store intetrior
1989 - shop front
“The Italian luxury goods company, with headquarters in Florence, specializing in shoes leather goods, and ready-to-wear for men and women. With about 2,600 employees and a network of over 550 mono-brand stores, with a broad footprint in Europe, America and Asia.� https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salvatore_Ferragamo_S.p.A.
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Celebrity Influence
Ferragamo is often seen being worn by greatly influential celebrities during major award shows and other red carpet event, being men or women sporting read-to-wear or accessories, Ferragamo has become a major fashion house.
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AW 15/16 Aspirational Products “outerwear and blazers featured flying bird motifs and dandelions, while other animals like owls, buffalos or zebras decorated knits and tailored garments. Models sported long and chunky scarves wrapped around the neck creating a dramatic effect throughout the lineup. There were many covetable pieces – blurred checks updated lumberjack coats and jackets, duffle-inspired cardigans came in white and camel tones and shearling trimmed leather outerwear presented a beautiful cracked and faded effect.” -WGSN
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Catwalk Focus
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Jil Sander
Salvator Ferragamo
AW 15/16 Fashion Week
Menswear has gained a slouchier silhouette. Items such as jackets, knits and accessories are upsized with wider dropped shoulders and elongated sleeves to achieve a relaxed slouchy look. Designers have been playing with textures, pattern-patched jackets a are often noticed in the shows with panel and patches of heritage woven quilts and denim creating visual and textural contrasts. Plush materials like shearling and fleeces have been used as an alternative to furs, all showing up on the catwalk as trims and textured panels, added for detailing.
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Greg Lauren
auren
Antonio Marras
Missoni
Miharayasuhir
Casely Hayford 17
Salvator Ferragamo
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Miharayasuhiro
Juun. J
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Pringle of Scotland
Bottega Venetta
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Colour Inspiration
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Deep browns and mustardy yellow tones. From top to bottom: 19-0915 TCX, 17-1028 TCX, 17-1046TCX, 14-0951TCX
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Darker and cooler shades of blue and greens. From top to bottom: 19-5708 TCX, 19-5320 TCX, 194024 TCX, 18-5606TCX
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Less vibrant heritage American colours. From top to bottom: 18-1547 TCX, 12-0605 TCX,18-4220 TCX, 18-0306TCX
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From top to bottom: 17-1109 TCX, 19-0618 TCX,17-1028 TCX, 18-0629 TCX
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Material Inspiration
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Wools
Worsted
wools are expected to be see in more tailored garments such as trousers, blazers and coats.
Carded
And wools would be expeted to be seen in jumpers and cardigans.
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Recycled Fibre Mix
Paying great attention to nature and it’s values, this trend will bring forward the use of recycled fibers. With a mix of Cottons and Polyester the use of blended organic and synthetic fabrics will bring character and uniqueness to the garments
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Denim
The approach to Artisan’s denim has taken a far more experimental approach. Looking at larger volumes of the fabric, giving it a more tougher larger form or shrunken fabrics. Various shapes baggier and sizes, whilst the actual denim remains very raw with deep indigo tones, or showing great deal of wear for a more vintage look.
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Slub Linen
Linen is an essential fabric to this trend, as it embodies the laid-back appeal of it, and it is also often seen worn in the deep South in America, which this trend highly stems from. This fabric is being incorporated to the winter seasons however we will notice that the use of linen with other materials such as cotton and wools, would creating a mix blend. It may be used to create texture or if used on it own. We can expect it to be thicker not so lightweight and have much darker hues.
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Key Silhouettes
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Key Silhouettes Designers are approaching this trend in a carefree way. Emphasizing on relaxed silhouettes, playing with volume and texture. The goal is to look effortlessly put together. The clothes should’ve sit as it should. Keeping in line with the oversized trend and rejecting the clean minimalism that has been so sought after in the recent trends.
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Material, texture and patterns are key, it all should have a rural feel to it, even though it is very much stylized and conscious of its appearance. Patch and repair aesthetics, instead of the products looking new, designers want them to look old and worn out. Distressing, dip-dyes and clothes that “don’t date but rather
mellow with age”
- WGSN
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Range Plan
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Patchwork Distressed or vintage, showing signs of long time wear. Oversized is the most desired fit
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Woolen blends of knits. Cotton or acrylic patches. Printed patterns for details. Rips and repair and vintage washes for denim
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Then Henley
Cover and marled rib stitching in a regular classic fit gives back the authenticity to the henley knit. Vintage details such as button plackets and set-in sleeves add o it’s laid back character.
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Taking a blend of synthetic fabrics such as polyester, viscose and elastane, would create a perfect blend for the Henley. Keeping it suitable to be worn throughout various seasons, and confortable enough for everyday use.
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The trouser would be made from a sturdier fabric, worsted wool for example. This assures quality and a longevity in the garment
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Tapered Trousers Working well both casual and formal the tapered trouser provides the best comfortable fit for a more voluminous trouser. Given a baggier shape, inspired by the workhouse of the old East London, taking inspiration from past silhouettes with more modern tailoring applied to it.
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Tactile Crew-Neck A new take on the fishermen sweater incorporating softer fabrics and knitting patterns for uniqueness.
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Featuring a rounded neckline and it would have a more slouchy fit playing into the bohemian aspect of the trend. The patterns on the sweater would be less structured and more blurred due to the material of the sweater. An example of yarn used may be mohair or a wool blend.
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Blanket-Check Trucker
With a wider cut and larger fit, the classic trucker jacket has been renovated to fit look less Western and more Southern to fit the full outdoors lifestyle.
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Gaining checked blanket wools and a soft shearling collar and a longer quilt liner for a layered effect.Thejackte may feature contrasting panels such as suede and leather.
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Sheepskin Jacket Taking into account the current fur trend, the sheepskin coat is a timeless (and accessible) piece gaining more popularity amongst designers, seen in Valentino, Jil Sander and Coach’s catwalk shows.
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Sheepskin being perfect offering various textures, we’ll notice a preference to earthy tones, as Artisans would shy away from heavily manipulating the fabric.
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AW 15/16 Collection
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Tailored Southern Nomad
Use of premium materials to create bold and subtle textures. Wool coats, raised stitched sweaters and quilted trousers, keeping an emphasis on outerwear pieces the silhouettes were rounded and cocoon-like, paneled in leather, braided wool overcoats, all oversized and so very finely done to blend in with the garment that it is hardly noticed at first. Prints and patters consisting of ethnic patterns, granular plaids and global bird prints Colour: ink / navy / ivory / cognac / maroon / slate blue / goldenrod / camel / dusted blue / black / adobe / dove grey / burnt red
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Customer Profile Psychographic • • • • • •
Early adopter Life stage: Pre-Family Social Class: Middle Class VALS: Experiencer Rational Buyer Ready-to-wear and Streetstyle brands
Demographic
• Living inSeattle with 1 other roomate • Loft Apartment • $32 000- $46 000 annual income
Hobbies/Likes • • • • •
Traveling Indie, Rock and Hip Hop Photography Family oriented Enjoys outdoors and nature
Lukas (24)
Born in Atlanta Photographer Generation Y HEIDI (highly educated independent individual)
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Market Place
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Competitors
Rag&Bone
is the most direct competitor, as it’s aesthetic reflects very much with the consumer. The collections created can be compared to Billy Reid’s . However the price range is slightly more expensive. Even so it is already an established brand with name value, making it an aspirational brand.
Billy Reid’s direct competitors based on the style of the brand and market positioning a well as the brands the target consumer is most likely to shop at.
Levis
is a competitor because it is a brand that the consumer is loyal to. Similar to Timberland and Rag& Bone it is well established and reputable. As the brand focuses mainly on denim it does limit the consumers options when shopping. It is known that the garments from this brand are better with age, making it the most fitting brand when looking for denim. However it is also likely that the consumer may not shop directly from this store, and would prefer to get it from vintage second hand stores
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T i m be r l a n d benefits mainly in it’s reputation for durable long lasting products. Although the consumer is not one to buy into a brand, he is likely to buy their products because they will last a lifetime. It’s price range is very accessible, but in terms of trend it falls short.
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Future Marketing
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Explorium Retail “There is something intriguing about not being able to decipher the space you are entering at first glance,” - Jaspar Jansen and Jeroen Dellensen, co-founders of i29
An effective way to market the brand by creating an atmospher in the stores that will keep the costumers returning. Ridding with the thought of selling product but selling an experience. South Korean sunglass brand Gentle Monster uses their stores as showrooms, boasting with amazing exhibitions and installations. The owners quote, “Customers don’t remember products when they visit a space, they remember the architecture and artwork curated within the space.”
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Nowadays it is very imporant for brands to be involved in some kind of philanthropic project.
Boutique Actuism
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“New formats within hospitality and retail categories are unveiling carefully designed spaces that are luxurious and well executed� LSN
Magdas
A former retirement home turned into a clean minimalist elegant hotel in Vienna, has 75 rooms for guests but there are also two residential suites reserved for 25 non-paying refugees. The hotel is aiming to rehabilitate places for asylum-seekers. Majority of the staff are former rufegees. The space was designed by architects AllesWirdGut
HoMie
Melbourne based retailer focuses on streetwear, and stocks various brands in stores. However, with each purchase made they donate one clothing item to those in need. The look and feel of the store challenges what it means to be a charity store and offers a boutique retail experience for the visitor. The best part is that anyone in need or homeless can choose new clothing, eat and have a haircut at the store.
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Marketing Campaign
The company sells to luxury boutiques worldwide and operates 12 retail shops domestically and an e-commerce site with full product offerings for men, women, footwear and accessories, with an emphasis on USA manufacturing,
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Proposal
In Store Experience
Pop-ups
Store refurbishment. Focusing on creating a homely atmosphere, where the customer can relax and ejoy being in the store for a long time. Removing the emphasis on buying and focusing on in-store experience.
In store events
Pop-up stores are a great way to attract new customers. By creating a small intriguing space that reflects the brand, people will rember the brand for it’s concept.
is a perfect way to build up a reputable image in the industry. Hosting drinks in store for a small group of customers or buyers, helps create a greater relationship between the brand and it’s consumers.
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Philanthropy
Making sure to give back to the community. Having on-going non-profit events to help those in need is great. The stores can accept older clothes from the brand from customers to then donate to homeless, or have a Street store where they’d take in any items of clothes for donations.
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The Young Master by Daniel Riera, Hercules Universal (http://fuckingyoung.es/the-young-master/)
Brett Wanner Photography (http://brettwarrenphotography.com/billy-reid-ss16-menswear-show/)
DECEMBER 1, 2014SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ‘A MAN’S STORY’ (http://www.thefashionisto.com/salvatore-ferragamo-mans-story-featuring-douglas-booth-aap-rocky/)
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1. Russell Sanders (https://www.flickr.com/photos/32580594@ N03/4409537388/) 2. Thomas Windisch (http://blog.urbanoutfitters.co.uk/?p=29711) 3. Kyle Thompson (http://blog.urbanoutfitters.co.uk/?p=29230) 4. Kyle Thompson (http://blog.urbanoutfitters.co.uk/?p=29230) 5. Sishir Bommakanti (http://designyoutrust.com/2012/04/art-of-sishir-bommakanti/) 6. Kyle Thompson (http://blog.urbanoutfitters.co.uk/?p=29230) 7. Kyle Thompson (http://blog.urbanoutfitters.co.uk/?p=29230)
1. Photograph by Branislav Simoncik GQ Portugal, autumn/winter 2013/14 2. Shinji Moon stanislaus national forest, 2015 (http://shinjimoon.com/ post/115610393878/stanislaus-national-forest-2015) 3. Novetex Fabric sample (http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/57503/ page/9) 4. Son House (http://www.americanbluesscene.com/) 5. The Huckleberry Story by Alexandra Leese, ELLE Men China(http://fuckingyoung. es/the-huckleberry-story/) 6. (http://girlgonecountryyy.tumblr.com/post/131696218086) 7. Studio April (http://studio-april.tumblr.com/post/132593536217/love-this-warmfall-colors-preparing-the) 8. Russell Penny (https://instagram.com/p/9tsnMNkIuZ/) 9. (http://chanelslegacy.tumblr.com/post/129914505835)
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Contents Page
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1. AW 15/17 (http://www.ferragamo.com/) 2. Shop interior (http://icons.ferragamo.com/en/uk) 3. 1989 Shop Window (http://www.ferragamo.com/)
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1. Bradley Cooper London Premier (http://archive.feedblitz.com/531992/~4594444) 2. Luca Calvani Salvatore Ferragamo Men FW14-15 show (http://www.factory4.it/ luca-calvani-red-carpet/) 3. Ryan Gossilin Red Carpet (https://glitteratidiaries.wordpress.com/tag/ cannes2014-celebrityfashion-mensfashion-ryangosling-ryanreynolds-robertpattinson-redcarpet-dior-salvatoreferragamo-fashionatthecarpet-redcarpetmoments/) 4. Paz Vega Red Carpet (http://www.ferragamo.com/shop/ProductDisplay?urlRequestType=Base&catalogId=37055&categoryId=3074457345616741326&productId=3074457345616702187&errorViewName=ProductDisplayErrorView&urlLangId=-1&langId=-1&top_category=3074457345616760820&parent_category_ rn=3074457345616760826&storeId=30151#indexImg=16) 5. Aishwarya Rai (http://www.ferragamo.com/shop/ProductDisplay?urlRequestType=Base&catalogId=37055&categoryId=3074457345616741326&productId=3074457345616702171&errorViewName=ProductDisplayErrorView&urlLangId=-1&langId=-1&top_category=3074457345616760820&parent_category_ rn=3074457345616760826&storeId=30151#indexImg=2)
1-4 . Autumn Winter 15/16 Collection (http://www.ferragamo.com/runway/en/uk/ men/fw-15-16/)
Catwalk Image (http://lifeinablog.com/fashion-forward-trends-summer-2015/)
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Jil Sander (http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/56715/page/8) Salator Ferragamo (http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/56715/page/8) Greg Lauren (http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/57076/page/11) Casely Hayford (http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/56206/page/8) Miharayasuhiro (http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/57114/page/6) Missoni (http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/57114/page/9) Antonio Marras (http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/56625/page/16) Pringle Of Scotland (http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/57114/page/5) Salvator Ferragamo (http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/56625/page/13) 3.1 Philip Lim (http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/59512/page/1) Miharayasuhiro (http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/57114/page/6) Juun J. (http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/56625/page/6) Bottega Venetta (http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/56337/page/3)
Voyageway.com (http://www.voyageway.com/conseils-pour-negocier-au-maroc)
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1. Antoine Bruy (http://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/gallery/2015/mar/09/into-the-wild-the-rebels-living-off-grid-all-over-europe-in-pictures) 2. Vogue Hommes International, spring/summer 2010 (http://www. wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/57314/page/1) 3. Anselm Kiefer: Mรกs allรก de la pintura (http://arte-actual.blogspot. co.uk/2010/10/anselm-kiefer-mas-alla-de-la-pintura.html)
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1. (http://filson.tumblr.com/post/124251333112/when-youre-miles-fromany-human-outpost-your) 2. Andre Govia (https://www.flickr.com/photos/andregovia/6939025141) 3. Josh Mario John by Alkan Emin (https://www.pinterest.com/ pin/311100286735533214/)
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1. Mopa.org (http://www.wgsn.com.ucreative.idm.oclc.org/content/ board_viewer/#/62843/page/1) 2. FUET Vol. 1 (http://fuckingyoung.es/store/fuet-vol-1-rituals/) 3. James Perry (http://fuckingyoung.es/ties-bows/)
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Page 28-29 1. Samuel Jablon (http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/55329/page/3) 2. Rawr Denim (http://www.heddels.com/) 3. bohemian011 (http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/55329/page/3)
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1. Prize winning merino sheep at the Royal Agricultural and Horticultural Society’s Livestock Show held at the Jubilee Oval in Adelaide, South Australia in 1914. (https://flic.kr/p/6YTbEU
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Page 1. Beige Knits (http://syflove.tumblr.com/post/102693882257/beige) 2. Ichiro Suzuki TWEEDISSIMO VOLUME 2 (http://www.ichirosuzuki.co.uk/2.html) 3. Laura Thomas Interior Design, Photographed by, Sarah Horn (http://www laurathomasinteriordesign.com/2013/08/milo-and-mitzy-chunky-knit-throws.html?m=1) 4. DisgruntledOwl (https://www.flickr.com/photos/42806996@N02/6495080397/)
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1. Handmade quilted coat by Amy Revier (http://www.blog.designsquish.com/ index.php?/C3/) 2. DEKOR TILES by Träullit (http://www.designsonearth.com/more-from-designjunction-2/) 3. Re Rag Rug Recycled Rug (http://reragrug.blogspot.co.uk/2013/09/varv-eftervarv.html)
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1. Premier Vision Calik Denim (http://www.wgsn.com/content/ board_viewer/#/57120/page/13) 2. Premier Vision Denim by Arvind Limited (www.arvindmills. com) 3. Renee Bedell (http://www.reneebedell.com/)
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1. https://www.pinterest.com/pin/490540584389551646/ 2. Love More (http://www.lovemore.com.au/2015/09/thetruth.html) 3. Linen (http://www.martan.com.au/2015/07/l-i-n-e-n.html) 4. A Life Lived Well (http://alifelivedwell.tumblr.com/post/74412114164)
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½ of ACF by D. Pattinson (http://artcomesfirst.tumblr.com/post/48602360356)
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Page 1. ½ of ACF by D. Pattinson (http://artcomesfirst.tumblr.com/post/48602360356) 2. Adam Katz Siding Styling (http://adamkatzsinding.com/portfolio/adam-katz-sinding-sydney-36/) 3. Dazed and Confused Winter 14 (http://www.dazeddigital.com/) 4. Mens Style Power (http://www.menstylepower.com/page/3/?s=casual+shirt)
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1. ½ of ACF by D. Pattinson (http://artcomesfirst.tumblr.com/post/48602360356) 2. Adam Katz Siding Styling (http://adamkatzsinding.com/portfolio/adam-katz-sinding-sydney-36/) 3. WGSN. Designer: Rong Jing Yu. College: Royal College of Art.
Jonathan Swanston, Urban Outfiters Blog (http://blog.urbanoutfitters.co.uk/?p=29018)
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1. Novembre Magazine (http://novembremagazine.com/) Page 48-49 2. Rawr Denim (http://www.heddels.com/) 3. Miharayasuhiro Fall 2015 Menswear (http://www.vogue. com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-menswear/miharayasuhiro/ slideshow/collection) 4. Second Layer (http://www.secondlayer.us/)
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1. Novembre Magazine (http://novembremagazine.com/) Page 50-51 2. Rawr Denim (http://www.heddels.com/) 3. Pull & Bear spring/summer 2012 (www.pullandbear.com) 4. Second Layer (http://www.secondlayer.us/)
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1. Another Magazine (http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_ viewer/#/55992/page/6) 2. T Magazine (tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com) 3.L’Officiel Hommes Germany (http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/57469/ page/9) 4. WGSN Milan FW Streetstyle (http://www.wgsn.com. ucreative.idm.oclc.org/content/image_viewer/#/image.20629015/position/23/set/%7B%22f_limit%22:%20 5,%20%22q%22:%20%22mfw150614%22,%20%22facets%5B%5D%22:%20%5B%5D%7D)
1. The Huckleberry Story by Alexandra Leese, ELLE Men China (http://fuckingyoung.es/the-huckleberry-story/) 2. Vintage Barber shop tumblr (gogetahaircut.com) 3. Decorialab knitwear Studio (https://www.pinterest.com/ pin/318207529894966632/) 4. Catalog Image (https://www.pinterest.com/ pin/450148925230336455/)
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1. Another Magazine (http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/57249/ page/13) 2. Topman (http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/20358/page/1) 3. Dazed & Confused (http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/57249/ page/13) 4. Dazed & Confused February 12 (www.dazeddigital.com)
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1. Apollo Magazine (http://apollomagazine.fr/) 2. Jon Magazine (http://www.jonmag.com/) 3. Parka Boy (http://www.parkaboy.com/showphoto.php?photo=9108&title=kk7p9tiy&cat=519) 4. Bite Magazine (http://bite-zine.com/)
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Billy Reid Fall Winter 15/16 Collection (https://www.billyreid.com/collections/fall-winter-2015)
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Page 62-63 1. Lukas Sabbatt for Wil Fry Fall/Winter 2015 (hhttp://www.thefashionisto. com/luka-sabbat-models-relaxed-styles-for-wil-fry-fallwinter-2015/?utm_ source=getresponse&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign&utm_content=Fashionisto+Daily+Digest) 2. Map (https://www.pinterest.com/pin/573364596286290349/) 3. Supreme Store (http://www.speakingofstyle.ca/blog/the-popularity-of-supreme/) 4.Acne Store (http://ryuxmiki.com/acne-studios-fall-2014-downtown-los-angeles/) 5. Hiking in the lake (https://www.pinterest.com/pin/561261172290665034/) 6. Camera (https://www.pinterest.com/pin/469852173603659927/) 7. rag & bone (https://footcandyblog.wordpress.com/tag/iconic/) 8. vinyl player (https://www.pinterest.com/pin/73887250113880851/)
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Eveleigh Farmers’ Market (http://www.nfesh.org/featured-columnist-seniors-fostered-by-australian-farmers-markets/)
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1. rag & bone (https://footcandyblog.wordpress.com/tag/iconic/) Page 2. Rag& Bone Fall wint Ad (https://www.pinterest.com/ pin/108579040992214762/) 3. Levis Store (http://www.speakingofstyle.ca/blog/the-popularity-of-supreme/) 4.Levis Tag (https://www.pinterest.com/pin/152137293636370767/) 5. Timberland Boots (https://twitter.com/timberland_eu) 6. timberland Store (http://openbuildings.com/buildings/timberland-westfield-profile-4627/media)
1. Gentlemonster Stores (gentlemonster.com/)
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Boutique Altreism (https://www-lsnglobal-com.ucreative.idm.oclc.org/ micro-trends/article/17987/boutique-altruism)
1. Billy Reid Store (http://superfuture.com/supernews/atlanta-billy-reid-store-opening) 2. Interior (https://www.pinterest.com/pin/378724649891119490/) 3. Wheel Barrow (https://www.pinterest.com/ pin/404972191468990031/) 4. Store front (https://www.pinterest.com/ pin/516436282248139303/) 5. Charity Event (https://www.pinterest.com/ pin/539306124102032789/)
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