Trend Research File
Forecast Autumn/Winter 16-17 for Billy Reid Ruth Rangel
ContentsPage
GROUP TREND INSIRATION
TARGET CONSUMER
Think Tank Past Think Tank Present Think Tank Future Concept Video Stills
Consumer typology Consumer Lifestyle
FUTURE MARKETING
PERSONAL TREND DEVELOPMENT
Contemporary Marketing Future Marketing
Concept Material Inspiration Colour Inpiration Key Items Catwalk Research
MARKET SECTOR
Market Selection Overview
BRAND SELECTION Brand Brand Aspiration Brand Product
*Some pages have been removed from this research book (mainly from group research) to feature only the work that has been created by me
Group Trend Inspiration Think Tank Research Past
The AfroCaribbean presence is largely credited to the Windrush era of immigration of the 1950’s and 60’s that took place in the Kensington area. Of course the Windrush story is now the stuff of legend. The North Kensington area was historically poor and run down, a slum few wanted to live in. But when the Afro-Caribbeans arrived from the various Caribbean islands, they found this was one of the only places they could get lodgings. The concentration of so many Afro-Caribbeans in one area has had a long lasting impact on the area, politically, culturally and socially. Of course, the Carnival is the most visual legacy that has been left, and many important stories have already been told – but there is still a wealth of untouched information and
individual stories which have either faded away or have yet to be revealed. Migration from the Caribbean to Britain was rare before World War II. As Orange Prize winner Andrea Levy describes in her novel “Small Island”, many Afro-Caribbean men served in Europe during the WWII. This picture is of Royal Air Force personnel, taken in the 1940’s. Many servicemen stayed on or after going home – returned to Britain shortly after.
https://www.rbkc. gov.uk/vmbtl/ general/wad_whitegloves.asp
Alexander McQueen 1997-98 and 2000 shows had a lot of african tribal inspiration. This played a great deal within our group work because we focused on embrasing your past and family roots, and a lot of the Carabian trends originally generated in Africa, as majority of the slaves were African decendants.
There was a very strong sense of community in the past. It was important for people of the same village/town to stick together. This because we weren’t as developed as we are now in the 21st centure. Humans were still discovering things. Elements such as religion and beliefs were also a great aspect of communal/tribal living. Similar to how we assign a leader for a country there was a leader (usually a the oldest member of the community, or in African tribes, the person who was believed to hold supernatural powers or abilitites that others did not posece.
This was a great element to look into for our trend when looking at the future consumer as the sense of community and sharing has become more and more common with the modern consumer. I will be further looking into this aspect in the present consumer.
“It was a movement born of ideals. It grew out of a concern for the effects of industrialisation: on design, on traditional skills and on the lives of ordinary people. In response, it established a new set of principles for living and working. It advocated the reform of art at every level and across a broad social spectrum, and it turned the home into a work of art.�
“This was a movement unlike any that had gone before. Its pioneering spirit of reform, and the value it placed on the quality of materials and design, as well as life, shaped the world we live in today.� - V&A Museum
Group Trend Inspiration Think Tank Research Present
Equipped with new technologies, homegrown creatives are inventing, exploring and experimenting with design boundaries, creating an original DIY culture where creativity thrives.
The growing DIY culture also applies for interiors. People have begun to take appeal to older furniture, and have begun to decorate their homes in a more rustic/ endustrial way. The same can be applied to architecture. Consumers are showing a greater preference to urband industrial structures, and building that show age.
Group Concept Concept Board and Video
The trend developed was called Innate Bespoke. The idea of ‘Innate’ of something being inherited, in this case the old Windrush era style, and turning it into something ‘Bespoke’. Personalizing it to fit the persons character. Keeping the basic core of the trend to a certain extent, and giving the old style a new character. showing appreciation for the past and an incline to the future.
Trend Development Concept
Material, texture and pattern are key, with Alabama-based brand Billy Reid highlighting a luxurious Southern folk look in recent seasons. Silhouettes are loose or unstructured, proportions are played with, materials are tactile and contrasted and pattern references are widespread, but that low-fi ease is never lost.
Ben Weller
Vogue Hommes International
Denim > Trend Watch > Emerging Trends
Mel Bles
Denim > Trend Watch > Emerging Trends
Billy Reid
Nepenthes
Taj Mahal
Son House
Alex Crawford
Heritage Lifestyle: upcoming artists such as New Orleans-based Benjamin Booker are keeping cool jazz alive. Much more than just a sound, cool jazz is a lifestyle with a laidback style characterised by unbuttoned tailoring
Richard H
American Made: denim returns to its roots, with brands such as Raleigh, Baldwin and Imogene + Willie concentrating on US manufacturing and handcrafted excellence. This draws attention to the quality of materials sourced from the South
Aged Tradition: history and patina are integral to Southern style. This sense of aged tradition is visible in
Aged Tradition: history and patina are integral to Southern style. This sense of the tailoring category, with durable but worn-in qualities that bring vintage references into a contemporary aged tradition is visible in the tailoring category, with durable but worn-in qualities context that bring vintage references into a contemporary context Dynamic Culture: folk heritage is found by the bayou where Creoles first settled, carrying African and Native American cultural references with them. Cities such as New Orleans and Nashville continue to be a melting pot where people engage with and re-appropriate the South’s dynamic culture Poglia
Denim > Trend Watch > Emerging Trends
Billy
“An easy yet refined take on heritage tailoring with a sense of free-spirited, artistic lifestyles away from the modern metropolis. Rustic, warm colour palettes underpins a feeling of handcrafted creativity.”
The Rag-and-Bone Man
The old rag-and-bone man influences this fashion story. Cobbling looks together, oversized proportions are piled over lots and lots of layers for a rough styling look. Again, nothing quite fits here. Bulky pea coats envelop baggy tailored trousers, cosy autumn knitwear sits loose and relaxed under big blanket coats, and boys – and girls for that matter – kick back in leather work boots.
Colour Inspiration Trend Development
12-0605 TCX
18-4105 TCX
18-4220 TCX
19-1624 TCX
18-5606 TCX
16-0952 TCX
18-0629 TCX
18-5606 TCX
19-5708 TCX
19-4024 TCX
Rugged Country – Mood
Bohemian attitudes and styling continue into the open country with a focus on outdoor practicality and natural performance in casual layers. The palette feels crisper with cool blues and a hint of mustard.
WGSN Colour
forecast: Bohemian Attitudes and styling focus on outdoor practicality and natural performance in casual layers. Creating a crisp cool pallet with blues and hints of mustard
16-6340 TCX, 11-4201 TCX, 18-4537 TCX, 14-0852 TCX, 19-1101 TCX
19-1250 TCX, 12-0643 TCX, 19-1217 TCX, 18-5410 TCX, 10127 C
Previous season (S/S 15) colour orientation
18-1651 TCX, 19-1101 TCX, 16-6008 TCX, 18-0527 TCX, 13-0907 TCX, 114201 TCX, 14-0852 TCX
18-0527 TCX, 16-6340 TCX, 16-1363 TCX, 11-4201 TCX, 8582 C, 15-1309 TCX
Personal
Colour development:
Adapting the spring summer colours to this trend, the hues would be darker and more toned down. Less bright poppy colours and more musky tones to reflect the season. Maintaining a more neutral pallet. Focusing more on textures in the fabric and adding colour through small details such as patterns and accessories.
chocolate hues
Using , it would go well with the Artisan concept, as this trend is very focused on looking natural and slightly outdoorsie.
Copper tones and deep greens match perfectly, creating a warm pallet perfect for the targeted customer.
Key Items Trend Development
Street style
• Slouchy fit • Various layers • Contrasting textures
Accessories
• • • •
Patchwork Tribal prints Beading Fur / Faux fur
Hats have become a staple in terms of accessorising in the Artisan trend. Incorporaing a modern spin in the traditional fedora, the detailing on the bands varies from metals to leather. Colours remain warm and neutral keeping within beinge, burgundy, black, grey and at times navy or dark green. Hats were previously seen during the windrush movement, and are now being adapted to everyday wardrobe by micro trends like the ‘Rudeboy’ and incorporating bohemian summer trends to the Autumn Winter season.
Market Sector Market Selection Overview
Mintel forecasts that menswear will grow by 22% between 2014 and 2019 to reach £16.5 billion as both multichannel and online-only retailers expand their menswear offering.
The men’s clothing market has grown by 4.5% in 2014 to reach £13.5 billion, growing at a faster rate than womenswear, helped by a growing interest in men’s fashion. The biannual dedicated fashion event for men known as ‘London Collections: Men’, has created a buzz around menswear and allowed more men to feel justified in caring about their appearance. While young men stand out as the most fashion conscious and preoccupied by what they wear, an interest in the latest trends is not reserved for this age group and Mintel’s research shows that men aged 25-44 also show aboveaverage interest in buying clothes that reflect the latest fashion.
nts less ly to have
MEN’S ATTITUDES TO INNOVATIONS WHEN SHOPPING FOR CLOTHES The most popular innovations are related to help with sizing and fit. A quarter of under-35s, who are the main clothes shoppers, would be interested in fitting rooms equipped with a tablet to request a different size. Meanwhile, almost three in ten 16-24s (27%) are interested in e-sizing technology to help with getting clothes to fit when buying online.
Target Consumer Consumer Typology
Demographic Shift
While the hipster’s love for all things hand-made, artisanal and crafted initially drove this search for authenticity, demographics has moved on. Hipsters were fixated on tactile and real-world experiences, while Millennials have now been rebranded as Yuccies (Young Urban Creatives), who exist in a less twee space. David Infante, who coined the term in an article for Mashable in June 2015, writes: Yuccies are the cultural offspring of yuppies and hipsters… intent on being successful like yuppies and creative like hipsters. ‘You cross the yuppie’s new-money thirst for yachts and recognition with the hipster’s anti-ambition, smoke-laced individualism, sprinkle on a dose of Millennial entitlement, and the Yuccie is what you get.’ This demographic shift from the noble desire to make for creativity’s sake, to crossing into the yuppie territory of desiring money, has meant that any references to making without referring to the bottom line can be perceived as dishonest.
+
= Yuccies
Urban career driven creatives. Aiming for financial independace within a creative field
Urban demands
As humans turn from a rural species into an urban one, new city structures are changing consumers’ habits. We are learning that the demands placed on urban consumers are different, and brands have to respond. At present, 54% of the world’s population lives in urban areas, according to the UN. This proportion is expected to rise to 66% by 2050 https://www-lsnglobal-com.ucreative.idm.oclc.org/macro-trends/article/18351/new-bricolage-living-1
STay-at-Home Millennias Despite economic recovery, rising employment rates and wages, independent living among Millennials is falling At present, 33% of 18–34-year-olds live with their families, compared with 29% in 2007 Millennial men are more likely to give up domestic independence than Millennial women
Self-Mythologising Consumers are using Factional Storytelling to mythologise their own lives and past. LS:N Global has already noted this process among consumers on social media on a small level as brands introduce intuitive programmes for consumers to tell their life stories through animations, music videos and films on Facebook using their old posts.
Storybloggers
Consumers are creating their own multi-channel, Factional Story eco systems via social media. Connectivity, the rise of the Bleisure classes, the influence of the hipster and our present need to make our online and offline identities more glamorous, appealing and global are all factors pushing Bricolage living into the mainstream.
Target Consumer Consumer Lifestyle
Demographic
Like the brand, the ideal target consumer is a millennial in their mid to late twenties, with Southern American heritage. Enjoys nature and the outdoors, but it also leads a very modern urban lifestyle. Well traveled and with a keen interest in social and cultural aspects of life. Someone style conscious but in a casual relaxed manor.
Musical Influences This consumer appreciated various genres of music, and each influence his style. Creating a hybrid of old rock and modern day indie music and 90s hip hop culture. With influences such as 2pac and Biggie, the Artctic Monkeys, Bastille and Jimi Hendrix.
Contemporary Marketing Current Marketing Strategies
Brand Collaborations
Muses
Rihanna as the new face of Dior
She old incredible influential power among the youth and is a common household name even amongst the older consumers.
South Korean highstreet brand
Stylenanda has kept the same models ever since they moved from selling their items in markets to e-commerce.
Park Sora and Jung MinHee model
exclusivly for the brand and are featured not only in their clothing compaigns but for the brand’s beauty brand 3 as well.
Concept Eye
Karl Largefield, creative director of the renown fashion house Chanel is known for having many muses. As the brand has great power in both apparel and comsmetic boh in menswear and womens wear, the brand is able to hold multiple muses at the same time.
Boasting incredible A-list stars both in the modeling world and Hollywood, chanel has a catalog of influential muses, such as Brad Pitt, Keira Knightly, Gisele Bundchen, Kristen Stewart, Dakota Johnson and now her daughter Lily-Rose Depp
Future Marketing Innovative and Upcoming Marketing Strategies
Geo Quests “Campaigns that can only be accessed in particular places enable a form of digital magic not accessible through the click of a mouse. Geo-tagged campaigns ensure they are only available in certain locations GPS means consumers can be tracked down to the nearest street The merging of the physical and digital through geo-location tools will become increasingly common”
“Stores are not just about consumption any more, they are platforms for connection, participation and mystery. Instead of just creating a story, brands need to share their value system and allow multiple stories to emerge,’ explains Martin Kwaskowski, creative director at Milligram studio.”
Gentle Monster
“South Korean eyewear brand provides a masterclass in Explorium Retail. Originally an online-only store, the brand’s physical space boasts four immersive and challenging showrooms. ‘We believe inspiring spaces help to sell products,’ says Jae Ho Bae, head of interiors at Gentle Monster. ‘Customers don’t remember products when they visit a space, they remember the architecture and artwork curated within the space.” - LSN Global (https://www.lsnglobal.com/micro-trends/article/18413/explorium-retail)
Amsterdam – Inviting consumers to live the brand, has teamed up with weekend.
Scotch & Soda
Airbnb to create a flat that people can rent for the
Part of Scotch & Soda’s The Story of Things campaign on the spirit of wanderlust. Renters will be provided with a select wardrobe of the brand’s clothing
Heritage Tales In the past five years, many brands have fallen into the trap of emphasising heritage. This exploration of the past has been seen from brands as diverse as Hermès and Barbour. And while it was once intriguing, now, in order to be an Immortal Brand, companies need to focus on the present and the future – their legacy – and not just on their past. ‘In 2010 you started to see luxury brands using craft as their selling point and a part of their brand identity to distinguish themselves within the broader marketplace,’ explains Leanne Wierzba, co-curator of the recent Victoria & Albert exhibition, What is Luxury? ‘You had a sense that this idea of craft was being appropriated by the industry. It was not necessarily a reflection of their actual practices, but rather was being used as a marketing technique.’ Brands must stop relying on authenticity, and move beyond tropes that include heritage and artisanal because consumers are bored with them – they are no longer authentic
Apple is one brand
that is perceived as being simultaneously authentic, true to its own brand messaging and having wildly popular appeal. The latest iPhone campaign plainly states the obvious reason you should buy the product, with the tagline If it’s not an iPhone, it’s not an iPhone.
After Americans Humberto Leon and Carol Lim became creative directors at Parisian
Kenzo
brand , they used the brand’s history subtly. ‘There was absolutely no nostalgia,’ says Sophie Metzker, chief marketing officer at Kenzo. ‘They focused on what worked for the brand [in its heyday] and what didn’t to build the Kenzo of today. It’s a back-to-thefuture effect.’ Kenzo is now known for its future-facing catwalk shows and for working with artists such as David Lynch and Gregg Araki. ‘Kenzo is obsessed with bringing culture into the brand, something more luxury brands should do,’ says Metzker.
The Brand About, Product and Aspiration
Billy Reid Billy Reid operates a design studio in New York City near its Bond Street shop and at its Alabama headquarters. The company sells to luxury boutiques worldwide and operates 12 retail shops domestically and an e-commerce site with full product offerings for men, women, footwear and accessories, with an emphasis on USA manufacturing, proprietary textiles development, and high quality construction.
Billy Reid was launched the self titled men’s collection in 2004 opening it’s first stores in Dallas, Houston and Florence. It’s aesthetic reflects much on the designer staying true to a southern made in the USA attitude. They put great emphasis on the manufacturing, proprietary textiles development, and high quality construction of the garments.
Word of the new company spread and the business grew, building momentum. In 2010, Reid was named GQ/CFDA’s Best New Menswear Designer and won the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award. Two years later, he was named the CFDA’s 2012 Menswear Designer of the Year. Reid has collaborated with brands including Levis, J. Crew, Coach, Neiman Marcus and K-Swiss.
“As our relationship with K-Swiss has evolved, we worked together to bring distinctive design details into the products we build with them. In particular, we wanted to use materials and proprietary design marks that are recognized as ours and attached to the broader part of our collection. Our black and gold stripe ribbon is now placed under a frosted gum sole to denote subtle branding. Notions and components such as copper eyelets and the metals we developed for our denim are used throughout the designs. Leather skins and speciality fabrics that we develop for our seasonal collection add novelty and richness to what can sometimes feel like an ordinary tennis shoe. Instead, it becomes ours with these touches. K-Swiss has been a generous supporter of our runway show for the past few seasons and, by taking this design approach, it really has helped marry the conceptual to the end use and overall validity of the effort.� https://www.billyreid.com/journal/billy-reid-k-swiss
Past Collaborations
A premium collection including retro, sports and global influences. Nautical-inspired sweaters included ecru stitch change stripes, edge-to-edge cardigans and slouchy boat-neck sweaters in an oversized silhouette of exaggerated roll and shawl necklines. Tactility was important with abstract intarsia patterns, woven fabric inserts and space-dye basket-weave stitches for a fresh contemporary look at reworked classics.
Catwalk Analysis > A/W 15/16 > Apparel > Apparel Categories
Fall/Winter 2015-16
Collection
Theme: Tailored Southern Nomad
Colour: ink
/ navy / ivory / cognac / maroon / slate blue / goldenrod / camel / dusted blue / black / adobe / dove grey / burnt red
Materials + Trim:
braided wool / cashmere / brushed wool / shearling / leather / cotton twill / nylon / cotton / suede / velour / silk / fur
online
Top Sellers
Channels of
Distribution
E-commerce: Online store • Mr. Proter • Nordstrom • Shopstyle • East Dane Having an online presence is an absolute requirement for brands now-a-days.
The brand is also stocked by major retailers online and in stores, such as Nordstrom and East Dane
Billy Reid currently has 12 running stores, present in major fashion cities in the US, and in the South of US where the brand originates. With stores in, Houston, Dallas, Haustin, Nashville, Chicago, Washington DC, New York, Florence, New Orlenes, and others.
Brand Selection Aspirational brands
Rag & Bone From its origins in New York in 2002, rag & bone instantaneously distinguished itself by combining their British heritage with directional, modern design. The brand has become synonymous with innately wearable clothing that innovatively melds classic tailoring with an edgy yet understated New York aesthetic. Having working with top stars such as Kate Moss, Miranda Kerr and choreographer Mikhail Baryshnikov
Having become an already very successful brand, Rag & Bone would be the equivalent of a fashion household name for casual menswear, making it an ideal aspirational brand for Billy Reid. Aesthetically both Billy Reid and Rag & Bone have similar store concepts. This is also reflected in the garments they produce. it is very much appealing to the young millennial consumer. The designers are taking into inspiration the same artisan concept for their garments. Making Rag & Bone a direct competitor to Billy Reid.
Salvatore Ferragamo Although the brand is particularly know for their footwear, Salvatore Ferragamo has been chosen as an aspirational brand forBilly Reid, as their menswear collection slightly mirrors that of Billy Reid’s. It’s recent menswear collection showcased at Milan’s mens fashion week, we noticed a great deal of play on textures and layering. Longer trousers and artisan inspired knits.
Lady Gaga in Salvatore Ferragamo
The brand has reached imense worldwide success, being present in Europe, Asia, North and South America. the brand also claims great influece amongst influential people and media. Dressing many stars for award shows and being feautred in top magazines such as Vogue, Elle and Harpers Bazzar.
PRESSRELEASE
Salvatore Ferragamo S.p.A. The Board of Directorsapproved the non-audited draft Company Statutory Financial Statementsand the Consolidated Financial Statementsfor the Year 2014 Another year of growth in Revenuesand Profitability for the Salvatore Ferragamo Group: Revenuesfor the Year 2014 +6%, EBITDA +13%and EBIT +12% Total Revenues: 1,332 million Euros(+6%compared to 1,258 million Eurosof FY2013) EBITDA1: 293 million Euros(+13%compared to 260 million Eurosof FY2013) EBIT: 245 million Euros(+12%compared to 219 million Eurosof FY2013) Net Profit 164 million Euros, vs. 160 million Euros that, at 31 December 2013, included ca. 13 million Euros capital gain deriving from the disposal of the participation in Zefer; excludingthe capital gain the Net Profit increased 11% Group Net Profit: 157 million Euros vs. 150 million Euros at December 2013, +13% excludingthe capital gain from the disposal of the participation in Zefer Approval of Corporate Governance Report
December 2014.
indicated.
Revenue by geographicarea asof 31 December 2014 area3 Revenuesby geographical (In thousands of Euro)
Europe
North America
Japan
Asia Pacific
Central and South America Total
constant The Asia Pacific area is confirmed as the Group's top market in at terms of Revenues, representing 37%of total in FY2014, up by over 5% (+7% in 4Q 2014), despite exchange the tensions registered in Hong % of % of % rate 2014 2013 Kong in Revenues the last part of the year. ARevenues major contribution was given%by the retail channel in China, Change Change which in FY2014 recorded a 18%growth compared to the same period in 2013.
354,816
304,828
26.6%
22.9%
326,365
290,347
25.9%
8.7%
8.6%
23.1%
5.0%
5.2%
13.5%
Europe posted an increase in Revenues of 9%, compared to the same period in 2013 (+14%in 4Q 8.4% 116,103 9.2% (4.0%) 3.8% 2014), even if penalized by the ongoing geopolitical tensions, which negatively impacted the global 496,013 37.2% 466,504 37.1% 6.3% 5.4% tourist flows , and by the enduring difficult economic situation. 111,495 64,670
4.9%
58,715
4.7%
10.1%
1,331,822
100.0%
1,258,034
100.0%
5.9%
6.5% North America registered an increase in Revenues of 5% in FY 2014 (+2% in 4Q 2014 that had a hard comparison base, +11%in 4Q 2013).
The Japanese market showed an increase in Revenues of 4% in FY 2014 (+6% in 4Q 2014), registering a 4% decrease at current exchange rates, due to the deterioration of the Japanese currency. Revenues in Central and South America showed solid results with an increase of 14% in FY 2014 (+17%in 4Q 2014).
2 Revenues at constant exchange rates are calculated by applying to the Revenues of the full-year 2013, not including the hedging effect , the average exchange rate of the full-year 2014. 3 The variations in Revenues are calculated at constant exchange rates, unless differently indicated.
2