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spring/summer 2010
The menswear guide
Exclusive luxury Menswear Report
It’s almost time to shed winter layers in favor of lighter, brighter fare. Get a jumpstart on next season’s wardrobe with Elite Traveler’s guide to the fashion and accessories that will make every man’s most wanted list.
springing forward By tanya dukes, style editor
Spring fashion typically gets short shrift compared to the winter season. Warm weather doesn’t require heavy duty fabrications and endless accessories that garner so much editorial ink. But without being hemmed in by the need to ward off hostile weather, spring and summer fashion offer plenty of room to play with color, texture and lightweight layering—all the little details that make a big difference. Our overview of the season’s key collections shows that there’s plenty of reason to get excited about the new crop of fashions soon to arrive in stores. Let the following rundown of spring’s top trends serve as preparation to narrow your shopping list.
WHITE NOW Color, or rather its absence, was a noticeable element in many collections. All-white looks opened several runway presentations. While the bold (and neat) might venture to try wearing white head-to-toe, the rest will be pleased to find that a single burst of bright white is all that’s necessary to make an entrance. IN THE TRENCHES It’s hard to think of a single piece of clothing that’s more iconic than the trench coat. Yes, it’s practical, but also supremely elegant and just a bit mysterious. There are so many options to choose from this season that now is the time to invest in one or add to your existing collection, especially in leather or an offbeat color. NAVAL GAZING Designers have been especially maritime-minded lately. Whether through symbols, like anchors and regatta flags, or classic colors that signal naval associations, many brands incorporated perennially popular sea motifs into their collections. SHORTS STORY No man should be shy about showing off his legs this season. Shorts trooped down so many runways that the look is sure to translate to reality. Super skimpy versions have disappeared in favor of options that are full enough to be forgiving. ATHLETIC INSPIRATIONS If designers have their way you may be sporting their high-priced wares to the athletic fields. Luxe interpretations of gym class favorites—sweats, anoraks, and sneakers—appeared at every turn. Grown-ups who are still kids at heart will surely embrace the look’s relaxed luxury. CLASSICAL STUDIES Spring 2010 has been a season of wearable, desirable clothes instead of out-there statements. Traditionalists will find plenty of reworked versions of classic pieces to stoke excitement to get shopping. Top-notch tailoring had a huge presence with just enough updates to tried-and-true formulas to make getting the right suit relevant again.
Collection Highlight Classic, generation-spanning creations are Asprey’s signature. The principle applies to everything it offers, from exquisite fine jewelry and watches, to goods for the home, to perfectly-wrought leather goods. The Bond Attaché, a roomy briefcase lined in the brand’s trademark purple and boasting the perfect quantity of compartments, is a prime example of Asprey’s penchant for combining practicality with notes of whimsy and style. (Bond Attaché in black lido calf, $3,950).
asprey No brand is more thoroughly British than Asprey. Since the 18th century it has outfitted royals and aristocracy from around the world with custom-made luxuries and keeps current with contemporary collaborations like its latest jewelry collection with Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt. | Where To Buy | The collection is available at Asprey in New York.
Corporate Contact: Lynn Dennis, (212) 688 -1811; corporateservicesus@asprey.com. Visit www.asprey.com.
Collection Highlight Following a mod, 60s-inspired silhouette, looks for spring hew closely to the lines of the body for a trim, youthful look. Scaled down, well-tailored trenches and jackets are such neat toppers they could stand in the place of blazers. Outerwear isn’t the only game in town—Aquascutum turns out a complete collection, including slim suits for spring with modern double lapel details and bohemian block prints. (Trench, $1,280; white shirt, $314; tie, $111; trousers, $233).
aquascutum Proudly made in England since 1851, Aquascutum is a master of the trench coat. The extent of the brand’s respect for quality extends to tiny details that make a big difference, including hand pressing each component of a trench coat before it’s assembled to ensure perfect stitching. | Where To Buy | The collection is available at Barneys in New York.
Corporate Contact: Sal Murgo, (212) 826-8900. Visit www.aquascutum.co.uk.
Collection Highlight Inspired by influences as far-reaching as candid photos of artists like David Hockney and Peter Beard, 1980s styling and Bally’s own Swiss heritage, Atwood set out to create a collection to dress the “perfect gentleman”, whether he’s at work or play. The result: A complete wardrobe of functional, multi-purpose pieces that don’t skimp on style. From easy, elegant suits and separates done in fluid linen, to beautifully crafted luggage made from sumptuous cohiba leather, Atwood’s gentleman is perfectly turned out no matter where he travels. The shoe collection is equally all-encompassing, ranging from spiced-up staples like loafers and oxfords to retro-inspired sneakers and high-fashion high-tops. (Left: Fiorio shoe in Trinidad leather, $595).
bally Under the creative direction of Brian Atwood—best-known for the lust-inspiring stilettos of his eponymous women’s line—this nearly 160-year-old label puts a new spin on old classics. Specializing in must-have items like trench coats, sleek suits and of course, amazing shoes, the overall effect is decidedly chic, not to mention masculine. | Where To Buy | The collection is available at the Bally boutique in Beverly Hills.
Corporate Contact: Jason Schmidt, (310) 271-3310. Visit www.bally.com.
Collection Highlight Trademark pieces from Belvest include unstructured, unlined jackets in lightweight wool or cashmere. The garments strike the perfect balance between ease and elegance and make perfect traveling companions; they emerge from suitcases unscathed and ready for wear no matter how rough the journey. A growing part of the Belvest portfolio is casual sportswear. Look out for playful denim in a complete menu of sugary shades. It’s a smart play to introduce new customers to the brand and excite long-time fans with a hit of bright color. (Single-breasted black wool suit with miniature dot design, $2,970; grey stripe cotton shirt and black dotted silk tie, both price available upon request).
BELVEST Masters of perfectly finished wardrobe staples, the artisans at Belvest produce beautifully fitting garments of stunning craftsmanship. A combination of first-rate textiles developed through exacting research and painstaking details that extend to handmade buttonholes and cuffs define the brand’s supreme quality. | Where To Buy | The collection is available at Belvest in New York.
Corporate Contact: Roberta Coco, (212) 317-0460. Visit www.belvest.com
Collection Highlight As upright and starched as a naval dress uniform, Black Fleece’s spring collection follows a straightforward palette of black, white, navy and grey—used individually or combined with graphic impact. The standout pieces, whether scaled down, slightly boxy versions of country clubperfect suits or slim knit pieces, featured a print with anchors, nautical maps and maritime emblems writ large across their surfaces. Other preppy stalwarts got a new look, too. Seersucker and regimental striped accents looked surprisingly bold done in black and ultra-bright white. (White linen back pleat jacket, $950; cream linen one-pleat trouser, $350; white oxford long-sleeve tuxedo shirt, $175; seersucker crinkle bow tie, $85; ivory golosh wingtip Shoe, $550).
black fleece by brooks brothers Under the direction of trailblazing designer Thom Browne, Brooks Brothers’ elite Black Fleece collection updates the look of classic Americana with a cheeky wink. For spring 2010, nautical-inspired symbols and colors are the central conceit. | Where To Buy | The collection is available at the Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers store in New York.
Corporate Contact: Edward Sadovnika, (212) 929-2763. Visit www.brooksbrothers.com.
Collection Highlight After seasons of quiet collections in comforting monochromatic palettes, Bottega Veneta’s spring 2010 collection featured confident blasts of bright color. Shots of lilac, mandarin and cherry struck a strong contrast against khaki, olive and chocolate. Casual selections included varsity-style jackets stripped of their traditional bulk and done in buttery leather, torso-hugging cardigans in featherweight cashmere and cotton jackets and pants in micro butterfly and maple leaf prints. Suiting with seriously structured sartorial shoulders may have felt extreme in fireengine red, but the jackets felt fresh and pitch-perfect paired with stiff indigo jeans and checked shirts.
Left: Gladiola spring gabardine jacket, $1,980; Gladiola jersey shirt, $270; Gladiola washed cotton pant, $750; brown BV eyeglasses, price available upon request; aubergine tricot silk scarf, $490; Nero calf shoe, $690. Top right: Pourpre washed fine nappa Jacket, $5,300; Gladiola jersey shirt, $210; Pourpre Gladiola ikat print pant, $680; Pourpre shiny calf leather belt, $490; Nero calf shoe, $690. Bottom right: Military green tie-dye linen knit cardigan, $920; military green cotton swimwear, $450; Noce vachette Cabat Uomo bag, $6,800.
bottega veneta Tomas Meier’s work at Bottega Veneta is associated with pared-down, almost austere luxury, but for spring things let loose with flashes of blazing color, bohemian tie-dye, and whimsical prints. | Where To Buy | The collection is available at Bottega Veneta boutiques.
Corporate Contact: Melinda Laplaca, (212) 371-5511. Visit www.bottegaveneta.com.
Collection Highlight An easy-does-it approach pervaded the brand’s casual and tailored looks, all done in a spectrum of grey, silver, blue and blush. Whether for weekend looks or work, the jacket is the cornerstone of Brioni’s latest collection. Safari styles came paired with shorts while traditional suits often took on a leaner shape than typically seen from the brand for a pleasingly hip update. And Brioni is bullish on accessories, stressing new travel bags and shoes, including sandals, moccasins and limited edition formal styles.
Left: Wool/linen suit, $5,000; cotton plaid sport shirt, $395; hand-polished alligator belt, $1,055; alligator captoe shoes, $3,800. Right: Silk parka with leather trim, $2,295; cotton vintage t-shirt, $250; cotton shorts, $425; leather woven belt, $800; matte crocodile duffle bag, $36,000.
brioni Brioni’s spring 2010 collection holds to its roots in classic Italian tailoring but with a leisurely new attitude and a heightened emphasis on elegant sportswear. | Where To Buy | The collection is available at Brioni boutiques nationwide.
Corporate Contact: Ali Ansari, (212) 486-0500. Visit www.brioni.com.
Collection Highlight The Solomeo-based brand continues to splice together dressy and relaxed elements to create its own fashion idiom. Washed polos in powdery tones match up with tailored, boardroomready jackets and chunky lug soled shoes for a combination that’s both polished and carefree. Many of the colors employed in the spring collection have a sun-bleached, weathered quality that underscores Cucinelli’s laid back aesthetic. It’s all about the mix: During the collection’s first showing at Pitti Uomo, even crinkled cargo shorts looked sharp when paired up with a tuxedo jacket. (On model: One-and-a-half breasted blazer, $1,995; polo, $435; jeans, $495; belt, $820; shoes, $495. Below: Polos, from $360-$480).
brunello cucinelli Brunello Cucinelli’s always assured combination of lived-in knits and comfortably tailored pieces ensures its customer never appears to be trying too hard. There’s no need to in body-skimming garments made from the very best cashmere, cotton and linen you’re likely to find. | Where To Buy | The collection is available at Brunello Cucinelli stores in New York, Beverly Hills and East Hampton.
Corporate Contact: William Brobston, (212) 813-0900. Visit www.brunellocucinelli.com.
Collection Highlight A light touch prevailed at Calvin Klein, thanks to parkas, button-down shirts and tailored jackets composed of sheer nylon or highly perforated leather. The effect gave a certain airy grace to classic wardrobe mainstays. Other staples that got the once-over included denim, which was created using the back side of the fabric, and shorts worn roomy and cuffed. The brand’s modern suiting showed in black, pale khakis and grays, or for the adventurous, iridescent blue and blaring turquoise.
Left: Light heather gray cotton club cap sleeve shirt, $395; Gotham cotton knit double pleat roll top short, $195; light gray ultra suede/mesh belt, $295; gray suede pull-on desert boot, $425; crystal zyl sunglasses, $325. Right: Blaze/turquoise iridescent wool/ silk two-button suit, $1,795; spray print nylon sport shirt, $425; spray print nylon tie, $175; navy calf oxford, $395.
calvin klein Calvin Klein Creative Director Italo Zucchelli is always forward-thinking without being inscrutable. The designer knows how to tweak traditional pieces in wearable new ways. Transparency, technical fabrics and pops of color animate one of spring’s best collections. | Where To Buy | The collection is available at Calvin Klein boutiques and Saks Fifth Avenue in New York.
Corporate Contact: Eva Baud, (212) 292-9000. Visit www.calkinklein.com.
Collection Highlight (Left: Two-button linen-cotton Kei jacket, $1,295; pure linen cotton trousers, $250; pure linen shirt, $295; calfskin belt, $195; striped linen-silk scarf, $195; soft calfskin moccasins, $595; linen canvas handbag, $695. Right: Double-breasted iridescent pure linen suit, $1,695; pure linen shirt, $295; silk tie, $125; calfskin derby shoes, $595).
Canali After 75 years of being at the top of the tailoring business, Canali has plenty to celebrate. Its blockbuster anniversary runway show had a triumphant spirit that touched on its classics with a fresh outlook. | Where To Buy | The collection is available at Canali boutiques nationwide.
Corporate Contact: Tom Junk, (310) 270-4200. Visit www.canali.it.
Collection Highlight Cesare Paciotti’s latest collection demonstrates the designer’s desire to get back to “the essence of fashion,” giving the label’s trademark top-quality construction a chance to shine in the sophisticated cuts, lines and manipulation of materials. Leather gets special treatments to create a variety of looks, from high-shine glazes to rugged distressing, while unexpected fabrics like linen, cotton, raffia and silk add a decidedly breezy feel that’s perfect for the season. Rich shades of yellow, red, chocolate brown and ochre instantly transport wearers to exotic locales. (Bag, $800; shoes, $590).
cesare paciotti Cesare Paciotti’s range of footwear, handbags, eyewear and jewelry tempers provocative and fashion-forward designs with exquisite craftsmanship. More than just a flash in the pan, these accessories strike the right balance between envelope-pushing and elegant, kind of like the stylish celebrities—among them John Legend and Justin Timberlake—who covet them. | Where To Buy | The collection is available at Cesare Paciotti boutiques in New York, Beverly Hills and Bal Harbour. Corporate Contact: Cinzia Bernasconi, (212) 245-1409; cinzia@cesare-paciotti.us. Visit www.cesare-paciotti.com.
Collection Highlight The process of creating each Church’s shoe is a laborious one involving more than 250 different steps that can take up to eight weeks to complete. Using Goodyear construction, the brand focuses on producing variations on styles that will undeniably be worn centuries from now: Loafers, brogues, oxfords and boots. Keeping the collection fresh comes from subtle tweaks to scale and color. The spring collection focuses on soft, natural hues to give the styles a lighter touch. To complement the footwear that has earned the brand renown, a small range of accessories has been added to the Church’s lineup, including totes in tumbled leather and even a dapper rain jacket. (Left: Girth bag, $255. Below: Bradfield shoe, $465).
CHURCH’S Staunchly proud of its English heritage, Church’s was founded in Northampton in 1873 by a family that produced men’s shoes since the 17th century. Never interested in chasing trends, Church’s focus has always been on values that never date—quality, reliability and comfort. | Where To Buy | The collection is available at the Church’s boutique in New York.
Corporate Contact: Dominick Lauria, (212) 307-9300; dominick.lauria@prada.com. Visit www.church-footwear.com.
Collection Highlight Cufflinks are Deakin & Francis’ signature. It boasts an inventory that tops 1,000 styles ranging from accessible offerings in sterling silver to intricate creations heaped with precious stones. The brand has cornered the market on fanciful, cheeky cufflinks: It boasts skulls with eyes that pop as its jaw opens and shuts, a menagerie of animals and emblems that represent every conceivable hobby. For those who can’t find the perfect statement to accent a sleeve among the existing (and ever-growing) catalog, there’s always the option of a bespoke masterpiece created to one’s own specifications. (Center: 18K white gold pirate cufflinks with crossed bone fitting, hand painted bandana, and articulated jaw movement, $7,785. From left to right: Hand-carved rock crystal cufflinks, mounted on mother of pearl and set in 18K yellow gold, with a dog bone sprung fitting, $5,960; 18K matte-finish yellow gold moving scorpion cufflinks, $6,385; 18K yellow and white gold crossed tennis racquet cufflinks with diamond tennis ball, $4,560).
deakin & francis Proudly owned by the same family for more than seven generations, Deakin & Francis has been producing fine jewelry and metalwork for more than 200 years. While the heritage of craftsmanship guarantees quality, there’s nothing stodgy about the enormously inventive designs coming out of its Birmingham-based workshop. | Where To Buy | The collection is available at Bergdorf Goodman in New York.
Corporate Contact: James Deakin, 44-12-1236-7751; james.deakin@deakinandfrancis.co.uk. Visit www.deakinandfrancis.co.uk.
Collection Highlight Dunhill’s spring collection reinvigorates classic pieces with a hip, modern eye. Tapered, high-waisted pants and smart skinny jackets worn with straw fedoras recall suave, Rat Pack cool. Understated, masculine colors and patterns—navy and grey, micro and Prince of Wales checks— guarantee that the pieces will fit into any wardrobe and remain in heavy rotation for years to come. Accessories are as important to the brand as apparel and the set of glossy aluminum flight cases are the height of jet set glamour. (On model: Grey striped shirt, $425; black and white striped shorts, $195; cotton and linen cardigan, $550; patchwork scarf, $195; straw trilby, $195).
dunhill Steeped in a rich heritage of fine English craftsmanship, Dunhill deftly navigates modern sensibilities while maintaining the quality in menswear and accessories that’s the foundation of its sterling reputation. | Where To Buy | The collection is available at Dunhill in New York.
Corporate Contact: Sharif Abdelfattah, (212) 753-9292. Visit www.dunhill.com.
Collection Highlight A breezy, tropical spirit held sway at Ermenegildo Zegna. Fittingly, the inspiration for the travel-ready collection was dubbed “the nomadic spirit.” Natural fabrics that look just as good rumpled as freshly pressed, like linen, silk and wool dominated. The palette veered to delicate shades of dove grey, cream and taupe punctuated with subtle berry tones. Key pieces included delicately draped cardigans, lightweight dusters, safari and blouson jackets and just-so suits with nipped waists and slightly roomy trousers. Woven raffia hats, generously proportioned sunglasses with round lenses and lightweight cloth totes capped off the collection.
ermenegildo zegna With its spring collection, Ermenegildo Zegna proves that elegance doesn’t have to be uptight. Dusky, retro-influenced color and slouchy tailored pieces make suiting look just as comfortable as the brand’s luxuriously easygoing sportswear. | Where To Buy | The collection is available at Ermenegildo Zegna boutiques, Bergdorf Goodman in New York, select Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Barney’s New York and Bloomingdale’s department stores, and specialty boutiques.
Corporate Contact: Franco Salhi, (212) 421-4488. Visit www.zegna.com.
Collection Highlight Two styles stand out at the heart of the Fratelli Rossetti spring line-up. The first is the laced oxford with a slightly rounded toe. The most luxurious version of the style is one that combines three exotic skins on a single shoe: Lizard, croc and python. There are also versions in woven suede, a technique strongly associated with the label, plus traditional vintage nappa.
The other standout is a super soft deconstructed loafer made from deerskin or calfskin. With its ultra-light construction and availability in unexpected colors like apple green, purple and cherry red, the trad style feels surprisingly fresh. (From top to bottom: Leather shoes, $560; woven shoes, $700; three skin shoes, $980).
fratelli rossetti Family-run Fratelli Rossetti confidently revisits the archive that made it one of the top artisan brands in the world. Its vintage designs and updated classics are failsafe choices to complete a timeless wardrobe. | Where To Buy | Available at Fratelli Rossetti in New York.
Corporate Contact: Ismaele Rossetti, (212) 888-5107. Visit www.rossetti.it.
Collection Highlight Bracingly bright white suits opened the Gucci show, as though signifying a clean break from the louche looks of recent seasons. Cool, straightforward and crisp, they set the tone for the entire collection. Athletic inspirations popped up in anoraks and shorts, plus materials like neoprene or python treated with a rubberizing effect. Those with more rustic inclinations will gravitate to chunky knits with digitized Kilim motifs. The print also surfaced woven into evening suits. And if Gucci has its way, men will trade in briefcases for top-handled totes ready to do double-duty as weekenders. (Soft white cubic jacquard half voile lined palma jacket, $2,595; flame aquiloni-printed muslin skinny shirt, $495; soft white cubic jacquard skinny pant, $875).
gucci With a mix of influences as disparate as Oscar Niemeyer’s mid-century architecture and traditional Persian weaving, Frida Giannini gave Gucci’s spring collection eclectic energy and far-reaching appeal. | Where To Buy | The collection is available at Gucci boutiques.
Corporate Contact: Michael Daly, (212) 826-2600. Visit www.gucci.com.
Collection Highlight For spring there’s extra emphasis at Harrys on mood-lifting colors. Case in point: A driving loafer that’s available in a dizzying spectrum of sugary colors including violet and tangerine. Fashion cognoscenti have been early adopters of the range. Designer Matthew Williamson picked them up in practically every color. The brand also reworked favorites like desert boots, preppy-cool spectator shoes and the luxe jet moc that ensures its clients are elegantly shod even while in flight. (Colored suede Driving Moc, $475).
harrys of london Harrys of London stresses scrupulous craftsmanship with a dapper, sporty edge—the product of American and English approaches to shoe construction. Comfort, longevity and uncompromising style unite a collection that spans from oxfords to camouflage-covered mocs. | Where To Buy | The collection is available at Mojito’s in the Wynn Las Vegas Casino & Resort.
Corporate Contact: Julia Rogers, (212) 217-2745; jrogers@harrysoflondon.com. Visit www.harrysoflondon.com.
Collection Highlight The look at Hermès consisted of classic pieces tinged with a languid bohemian sensibility. Oversized knits, cotton trousers worn long and baggy or cuffed and cropped and blousy button-front shirts looked like the wardrobe of a well-heeled Sorbonne student on holiday. Designer Véronique Nichanian went with a palette of smoky blue, chocolate, olive and russet throughout—strong neutrals that don’t just fade into the background. The brand’s long history of manipulating leather means it leads the pack when it comes to producing exquisite garments from the material. Shirt jackets, unbulky bombers, hip-slung belts, and slipper soft loafers practically glowed with a warm sheen that will only improve with age.
Hermès of Paris Hermès has come a long way from its origins as a saddle maker serving aristocracy nearly two centuries ago. Now the label is at the vanguard of producing understated clothes that exude permanent luxury over passing flash. | Where To Buy | Available at Hermès boutiques.
Corporate Contact: Robin Edelman, (212) 751-3181. Visit www.hermes.com.
Collection Highlight Following the trend among many brands, Hugo embraced white more than any other color. The hue looked slick, clinical and architectural on tapered trousers, jackets and vests with lapels so tiny it was easy to miss them and collarless shirts with a bit of transparency. The entire look feels bracingly clean and nononsense. The same silhouette played out in graphic stripes and touches of navy or light blue, but for jaw dropping drama, jackets were accented with jumbo golden paillettes.
hugo by hugo boss This spring, Hugo by Hugo Boss dispenses with (almost) any extraneous ornament. Sleeves were optional, lapels pared down and color kept to a minimum in a collection of tailored pieces and sportswear with a futuristic bent. | Where To Buy | The collection is available at the BOSS Store in New York.
Corporate Contact: Richard Presser, (212) 940-0639; richard_presser@hugoboss.com. Visit www.hugoboss.com.
Collection Highlight Frequently Paul & Shark introduces items that reflect its expert fabric research. This season the Niagara jacket, made of incredibly supple rubber, demonstrates the brand’s capacity to develop beautiful clothing that stands up to tough treatment. The rest of the collection stresses the importance of the polo shirt in colors like yellow, royal, pink and violet, plus striped varieties emblazoned with decorative crests, block print and the like. Yachting collection sweaters capture the brand’s outdoorsy outlook with a slightly dressier feel. (On model: Typhoon silk jacket, $595; striped cotton polo, $295; 5-pocket yachting pant, $179; cotton and leather sneaker, $409; canvas messenger bag, $369).
paul & Shark In the world of Paul & Shark the nautical look isn’t a trend to dust off from time to time. Yachting and marine pursuits direct the ethos of the brand. The sporty, Italian-based company creates great casual pieces and technical garments with performance to match. | Where To Buy | The collection is available at Paul & Shark stores in New York, Bal Harbour, Beverly Hills, Sausalito and Short Hills, New Jersey.
Corporate Contact: Glenn Pennell, (212) 452-9868; madison@paulsharkusa.net. Visit www.paulshark.it.
Collection Highlight Kiton’s CI.PA. jacket has been reintroduced for spring. First created by Kiton founder Ciro Paone in the 1960s, its navy blue color, peaked lapel and checked linen lining encapsulate Kiton’s mastery of classicism with a unique spirit. The brand’s range is so broad that it’s unlikely that it would be difficult to find whatever whim comes to mind. And bespoke services are available to create the suit of one’s dreams.
KITON No one beats Naples-based Kiton when it comes to knockout fabrics and exquisite construction. The brand is one of the undisputed leaders in head to toe dressing. Beyond superior suits, the collection includes knits, sportswear and leather goods from shoes to luggage. | Where To Buy | The collection is available at Kiton in New York.
Corporate Contact: Peter Davis, (212) 813-0272. Visit www.kiton.it.
Collection Highlight Loro Piana has adopted this season’s mania for muted color. Accents in spicy shades of saffron and pumpkin brighten the soft spectrum. Classic three-button jackets layered with cozy cardigans and paired with tapered trousers is a typical Loro Piana look. The spring collection features versatile knits in fibers like linen, silk and cotton, plus its signature “Cash Light,” ultra-light cashmere. And the label doesn’t stop at supplying every element of a personal wardrobe; it’s also possible to decorate a yacht, home or private plane in the brand’s sumptuous textiles thanks to a personalized interiors service. (Below: Regatta jacket, $1,425; cotton and linen Bermuda pant, $435; Summer Walk suede shoe, $525. Right: Cotton stretch Roadster overcoat, $1,750; cotton and linen pant, $450; City Walk suede shoes, $750; Fjord leather My PC bag, $3,950; Fjord leather “No Carry” trolley, $5,315).
Loro Piana Essentially synonymous with cashmere, Loro Piana has flourished as six generations of its namesake family have mastered the art of creating superior luxury fabrics, which often requires going to the ends of the Earth in the process: Loro Piana is one of the few companies in the world to offer garments in rare Andean vicuña and Mongolian baby cashmere. | Where To Buy | The collection is available at Loro Piana boutiques.
Contact: Mary Ellen Romero, (212) 980-7961. Visit www.loropiana.com.
Collection Highlight Classics with a techno, sportif twist were the message at Louis Vuitton. Models donned lots of luxe denim and relaxed sporty jackets, even blazers paired with shorts, all styled with jaunty rolled cuffs and sleeves to indicate that that they were made to be lived in. The collection’s color scheme was neutral—khaki, navy, grey and olive—with the exception of a few strong blasts of safety orange and yellow. And no Louis Vuitton show is ever complete without a serious helping of accessories. Oversized bags stood out as the most prominent statement; backpacks and totes were generously proportioned and structured.
Left: Black nylon raincoat, about $1,819; grey cotton poplin and jersey shirt, about $649, brown cotton classic trousers, $835. Right: Black cotton military jacket, $1,535; brown nylon safari vest, price available upon request; grey cotton poplin printed shirt, $650; black cotton and silk shorts, price available upon request; black and silver sequin paillete shoe, $1,070.
louis vuitton The quintessential French luxury brand, Louis Vuitton never fails to produce iconic pieces that will feel desirable now and always. The ultimate trench, anorak and bomber jacket were the backbone of a stellar spring collection. | Where To Buy | Available at Louis Vuitton boutiques.
Corporate Contact: Alex Fishman, 212-872-2000. Visit wwwlouisvuitton.com.
Collection Highlight This season, under the creative direction of Clare Waight Keller, Pringle pays homage to the styles that have secured its status as a British fashion icon. Case in point: The “new twinset,” which appeared as a cotton tuxedo shirt paired with a double constructed jersey jacket or basic cardigan. While the collection is built around such mainstays as pin tucked dress shirts and evening-ready waistcoats, unstructured tailoring and unique fabrications added an unexpected twist—from micropique cotton to irregular seersucker, these unusual textures lent a decidedly relaxed feel to every piece.
pringle of scotland With origins dating back to 1815, Pringle of Scotland is one of the world’s first luxury knitwear labels, having paved the way for “knitwear as outerwear” in the 1870s with their trend-setting cashmere garments. Nearly two centuries later, the brand that pioneered such wardrobe staples as argyle patterns and twinsets continues to deliver classics with an instant, and enduring, appeal. | Where To Buy | The collection is available at Barneys in New York.
Corporate Contact: Brandon Orenstein, (212) 826-8900. Visit www.pringlescotland.com.
Collection Highlight The designer returned to the looks that helped make his brand from the outset— clean, unfussy suits and sportswear with a traditional cast. There were loads of three-piece and double-breasted suits, cardigans paired with khakis and, of course, polo shirts. Smartly, Lauren keeps the collection fresh by invigorating it with plenty of color: Sherbet pink, sunflower yellow, turquoise and kelly green are key elements. And layering is an important way to wear color; there’s no need to shy away from combining brights. (Left: Drake peak lapel double-breasted suit, $5,495; dress shirt, $425; deco print silk tie, $185. Below: Cardigan, $1,195; trouser, $695; scarf, $195; dress shirt, $425).
Ralph Lauren Ralph Lauren is the imitable king of haute American style in all its guises. From East Coast preppy to rugged cowboy chic, Ralph Lauren hones the highlights of the country’s key looks in covetable new incarnations from season to season. | Where To Buy | The collection is available at Ralph Lauren boutiques.
Corporate Contact: Jim Miller, (212) 606-2100. Visit www.ralphlauren.com.
Collection Highlight Spring 2010 has had continuing success with some of the brand’s greatest hits, most notably a line that duplicates the structure of a ribcage designed by enfant terrible designer Alexander McQueen. On a less macabre note, the new Cosmolite collection is being billed as the brand’s lightest, strongest luggage ever. Not only is the glossy shell-shaped exterior resistant to scratching but the model is set upon spinning wheels that enable movement over 360 degrees. (Cosmolite Spinners, available in 20”, 26” and 29”, and in black, silver and cherry red, from $450-$600).
samsonite black label Samsonite’s luxury label is the perfect merger of style and function. Even when designed by fashion’s brightest stars, performance is always the paramount concern. | Where To Buy | The collection is available at Samsonite Black Label stores.
Corporate Contact: Garrett Person, (212) 223-7195. Visit www.shopsamsonite.com.
Collection Highlight For spring Santoni gets playful with perennially popular styles by reinterpreting them with surprising texture and color. New hues have been injected into the handmade collection, plus mainstay loafers receive a Riviera-worthy makeover when they’re done in soft cotton uppers of checked gingham. Shades of lime and lilac give the style an upbeat attitude that is still utterly sophisticated. High top sneakers lose their athletic viability when the uppers are composed of an open weave but gain a sky high fashion quotient.
santoni There’s no mistaking a Santoni shoe, whether it’s a handmade oxford or a playful sport shoe. With reverence for tradition and maintaining exceptional quality, Santoni advances its art with shoes that are both modern and timeless. | Where To Buy | The collection is available at Santoni stores worldwide.
Corporate Contact: James Rarus, (212) 794-3820. Visit www.santonishoes.com.
Collection Highlight The brand has embraced a sampling of bright colors to highlight its newest designs, with blues and hot citrus colors as the dominant shades. The colors appear throughout the collection but especially in a new range of knitwear that’s slimmer than what’s been seen from Zilli in the past. Surface details like chevron embroidery and graphic prints are youthful touches. As always, Zilli incorporates exotic skins into the range. The brand is a leader in taking its outerwear and accessories to the nth degree by finishing them in precious ostrich, python or croc, among others, and the same goes for its spring collection. (Black silk trench coat, $10,450; cotton poplin shirt, $740; jacquard silk narrow tie, $230; cotton and silk jeans, $800; eel skin belt, $1250; calfskin oxfords, $900). .
zilli Zilli specializes in money-is-no-object luxury sportswear. Founded in 1970, and still family-run, the brand is the place to indulge a passion for exuberantly refined fashion, from outerwear to accessories. | Where To Buy | The collection is available at Zilli in New York.
Corporate Contact: Christopher Lacy, (212) 207-4028; zilli.newyork@zilli.fr. Visit www.zilli.fr.