L O B S T E R

FROM RICH FISHERMAN'S FOOD TO GASTRONOMIC DELICATESSEN.

If you have heard of the controversial author Christopher Hitchens you may know that in his list of the four most overrated things in life he included lobster What seems certain (judging by the severity of his assertion) is that he must have been referring to the species Homarus Americanus, because otherwise the thing makes little sense To the astonishment of many, the English word lobster is an umbrella term that includes decadopods of different genera that gives rise to many confusions

In Spain, however - and leaving taxonomic considerations aside - it is totally unthinkable to put the Canadian lobster in the same bag as the protagonist of our article, the Palinurus Elephas, since they do not have the same gastronomic value nor do they command the same prices If the former is so abundant on the coasts of the state of Maine to the extent of having been included in the menu of all McDonald's in New England at one time (see their seasonal lobster roll), the latter has its habitat in the western Mediterranean and part of the European Atlantic coast

Of its culinary tradition we have the account of Pliny the Elder, who informs us of their value to the Romans, who in order to keep them alive once captured deposited them in ponds

The silhouette of this crustacean with long antennae was already immortalized in a famous mosaic of a triclinium (domestic hall of the wealthy Roman classes, dedicated exclusively to the celebration of banquets) located in Pompeii As the gastronome Apicius tells us in the first century AD, lobster (again, let us stress Palinurus Elephas) was already a common ingredient in meals of pomp and pageantry It was prepared cooked or grilled, usually accompanied with sauces made from garum, defrutum and various spices You can see, then, how in ancient times its consumption was associated with the most sumptuous luxury despite the fact that they were not in scarcity (in the Helad we have the testimony of Aristotle, who tells us that they populated the coast in such numbers that it was possible to pick them up directly by hand)

A long time has passed since then and its presence in the seas has been diminishing

Because while it is true that for centuries it was relegated to the most absolute culinary obscurantism, being exclusively subsistence food among fishermen (as was the case of sturgeon caviar in ancient Persia), the truth is that the lobster (good ol’ Palinurus, don’t forget) saw its prestige renewed in the nineteenth century thanks to the revaluation made of it by the French haute cuisine (thank you, Francatelli!)

Thus it is, thanks to its growing demand on the tables of the continental aristocracy, how fishermen from the island of Menorca got to experience the awakening of a flourishing trade with the establishment of new routes, mainly to the port of Marseilles

With an intense flavor and delicate texture, the catches from the north coast of Menorca were (and still are) highly coveted And although its presence in Menorcan recipes is short-lived, it must be said that today it is undoubtedly one of its star products

A good example of this is its famous caldereta, the favorite dish of Juan Carlos de Borbón, formerly only known by the locals amongst fishermen This was usually made with pieces of fish and lobsters that were battered and could not be sold on the market Prepared in situ in the crossing or in the fishing grounds, it was made in a cauldronwhence its name comes - with a base of sofrito and enriched with a good majado and rice, potatoes or bread (when it had become too hard to use otherwise)

And from eating it in the boat, Menorcans began to offer it in their restaurants with the rise of tourism in the middle of the last century Because although Marco Pierre White pointed out that cooking is philosophy, it should not be overlooked that it is economy as well And if yours allows it, you should not fail to try such a delicacy Even if it is just once in your life Because you are not going to trust the word of a character like Hitchens, are you? Off you go What are you waiting for?

Ingredients

2 lobsters of 1 k

1 k tomato

1 onion

1 green bell pepper

1 bay leaf

1 k of ripe tomatoes

1 dl brandy salt 2 l of water

2 cloves of garlic

2 sprigs of parsley olive oil

Method

Peel and chop the tomato without seeds Set aside

by Chef Koldo Royo

Chop the lobster separating the body from the head Empty the lobster, reserving all but the tripe, which is thrown away

In a casserole with a little oil, sauté the onion and the bell pepper, all finely chopped When it takes color, add the head and legs of the lobster, the bay leaf and the tomato Season

Flambé with the brandy and let it cook for 15 minutes

Add the water and let it cook slowly for another hour

Prepare a mince with a pinch of salt, the garlic, the parsley, the liver and the coral of the lobster and add oil to mount it as if it were a mayonnaise

Mix with the broth and cook for a few minutes Strain the broth, squeezing it well and reserve the head

Cut the lobster body in medallions and put it in the broth, letting it cook slowly, taking special care not to overcook it

Serve with some toasted bread and, if desired, serve the chopped head in the broth