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TO BREAK THE RULES, YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM. THE WATCH THAT BROKE ALL THE RULES, REBORN FOR 2012. IN 1972, THE ORIGINAL ROYAL OAK SHOCKED THE WATCHMAKING WORLD AS THE FIRST HAUTE HOROLOGY SPORTS WATCH TO TREAT STEEL AS A PRECIOUS METAL. TODAY THE NEW ROYAL OAK COLLECTION STAYS TRUE TO THE SAME PRINCIPLES SET OUT IN LE BRASSUS ALL THOSE YEARS AGO: “BODY OF STEEL, HEART OF GOLD”. OVER 130 YEARS OF HOROLOGICAL CRAFT, MASTERY AND EXQUISITE DETAILING LIE INSIDE THIS ICONIC MODERN EXTERIOR; THE ALWAYS PURPOSEFUL ROYAL OAK ARCHITECTURE NOW EXPRESSED IN 41MM DIAMETER. THE AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK: CELEBRATING 40 YEARS.
ROYAL OAK IN STAINLESS STEEL. CHRONOGRAPH.
Audemars Piguet UK Ltd Telephone: + 44 207 659 7300 www.audemarspiguet.com
08.03.12 08:34
contents
news........................................... sport and design motoring.....................................................fashion fads event..........................................................................salon prive
feature 14 All That Glitters Kari Rosenberg meets the brains behind the most beautiful baubled bags in Britain, Anya Hindmarch MBE
safe as fashion houses
E After fashion, photography and glassware, Lagerfeld turns his hand to safemaking, says Richard Brown
collection 26 The Cartier Odyssey
ver since teaming up with H&M in 2004, it seems Karl Lagerfeld has caught something of a collaboration bug. In the ensuing years, the German fashion designer has directed an advertising campaign for Magnum ice creams, designed new bottles for Diet Coke, created a crystal art collection for Orrefors crystal, and, in 2010, produced this watch and jewellery safe for Munich-based safemakers Döttling. A puristic installation at first glance, the safe only reveals its capabilities when it identifies its owner. Then, two handcrafted interior cabinets containing
watch winders and jewellery drawers emerge from its steel body, which weighs 800 kilos and is sheathed in high-gloss, chrome-plated aluminium. Developed on paper in Paris and crafted from the most precious materials in Germany, Narcissus’ (as the safe has been named) reflective surfaces were designed to pay tribute to the personality and aesthetics of its counterpart when closed. Limited to an exclusive production run of just 30 pieces, the safe remains one of the most modern and expensive ever created. n www.doettling.com
63
feature interview feature interview
Annabel Harrison unravels the history of French jewellery house Cartier, speaking to Francois Le Troquer, Managing Director, and Arnaud Bamberger, Executive Chairman UK
Hard Hard
lines
Tom Hardy has quickly become a big name in Hollywood. But is the British actor biting Tom Hardy become big name But is theturn British actor biting off more thanhas he quickly can chew? Jamesa Ford talksintoHollywood. the man who won’t down a script off more than he can chew? James Ford talks to the man who won’t turn down a script
T
om Hardy makes a valid point:“I think people
who certain aimage me arethink quitepeople om have Hardya makes valid of point:“I surprised they image find out grew up, who havewhen a certain ofwhere me areI quite where I came from. But it’sout notwhere aboutI where surprised when they find grew up, you’re - it’s about you are now.” wherefrom I came from. Butwhere it’s not about where Having cultivated on-screen image that’syou theare verynow.” you’re an from - it’s about where personification of toughness, many image wouldthat’s assume art Having cultivated an on-screen thehis very was simply imitating life, and that thewould actor assume had been personification of toughness, many his‘well art hard’ from the cradle. But Rises was simply imitating life, the andtattooed that the Dark actor Knight had been ‘well hunk a more comfortable than Dark most.Knight Growing up in hard’had from the cradle. But thestart tattooed Rises the affluent borough ofstart East than Sheen, he was the only hunk had aLondon more comfortable most. Growing up in child of Cambridge-educated the affluent London boroughwriter of East Sheen, he was the only Edward and mum Anne,writer child ofHardy Cambridge-educated an artist. It was his Edward Hardy andupbringing mum Anne, however, made Hardy feel an artist.that’s It was his upbringing somewhat abashed. “There was however, that’s made Hardy feel forever this feeling of “There guilt and somewhat abashed. was shame about being ‘privileged’,” forever this feeling of guilt and heshame says. about “It took me ‘privileged’,” years to be being okay with“It being East Sheen, he says. tookfrom me years to be growing up being around people okay with from Eastcarriers Sheen, and cardigans and thepeople deer incarriers Richmond Park. It took me growing up around ages accept that to ainpublic schoolPark. was alright.” andto cardigans andgoing the deer Richmond It took me Nottothat Hardy, wastoa amodel any means ages accept that34, going publicstudent schoolby was alright.” at Reed’s Public School Surrey. Expelled forby stealing and Not that Hardy, 34,in was a model student any means later arrested for joyriding, young Tom found profoundly at Reed’s Public School in Surrey. Expelled forit stealing and difficult to channel his teen angst. and drugs soon later arrested for joyriding, youngAlcohol Tom found it profoundly became problem stageAlcohol becameand his drugs saviour. difficulta to channeltoo. his But teenthe angst. soon Enrolling Richmond seemed his to turn it became aatproblem too.Drama But theSchool stage became saviour. around for at theRichmond fledgling star. “I mightn’t have taken it as Enrolling Drama School seemed to turn it seriously as I should have at the time, but the drama school around for the fledgling star. “I mightn’t have taken it as isseriously where I reined myself in. at It was wherebut I learned I could be as I should have the time, the drama school really goodI reined at this.” is where myself in. It was where I learned I could be And good at he this.” was. The pillow-lipped bad boy soon landed really
comment 44 Better Together
10 10
And good he was. The pillow-lipped bad boy soon landed
again. “I always enjoy being an evil guy,” he laughs. “You
Featureflash / Shutterstock.com Featureflash / Shutterstock.com
Overnight, Overnight, Hollywood wanted a piece Hollywood piece of the mostwanted stylishayet of the most stylish yet elegantly secretive muscle elegantly muscle man in secretive the industry man in the industry
Richard Brown considers the benefits of fashion brand collaborations; using each other’s expertise and market positions
bit-part roles in war saga Band of Brothers and lavish period drama Marie well of as Brothers far-fetched sci-fi fareperiod bit-part rolesAntoinette, in war sagaasBand and lavish indrama the form of Star Trek: Nemesis. But it was hissci-fi searing Marie Antoinette, as well as far-fetched fare portrayal of notorious criminal Charlie truly put in the form of Star Trek: Nemesis. But Bronson it was histhat searing him on the of map. Overnight, Hollywood piecetruly of the portrayal notorious criminal Charlie wanted Bronsona that put most elegantly secretive muscle wanted man in athe industry. him stylish on the yet map. Overnight, Hollywood piece of the Modest hitsyet Warrior and Tinker muscle Tailor Soldier most stylish elegantly secretive man in the industry. SpyModest broughthits more attention Hardy knows he has Warrior andbut Tinker Tailor Soldier Christopher really thank for propelling Spy broughtNolan more to attention but Hardy knows hehim hasonto the A-list, when he cast him inthank a scene-stealing rolehim as onto Christopher Nolan to really for propelling Eames opposite DiCaprio in Inception.role as the A-list, whenLeonardo he cast him in a scene-stealing and in I understood Eames opposite Leonardo“Chris DiCaprio Inception. each other fromand the Ibeginning; theeach way “Chris understood he sees from creativity is inspiringthe and other the beginning; way brilliant. It was funny because,and he sees creativity is inspiring when The It Dark Rises came brilliant. wasKnight funny because, along, I’d shyRises awaycame and when he Thethought Dark Knight say no to because I’d away have to along, heBane thought I’d shy and wear a mask for a few months.” say no to Bane because I’d have to But so aimpressed Nolan with wear mask for was a few months.” Hardy’s Inception was performance, But so impressed Nolan with he offered Hardy the lead role inInception this summer’s monster Hardy’s performance, Batman spin-off, initially to offermonster any he offered Hardydespite the lead role inrefusing this summer’s detail about his character. “He wouldn’t lettoslip on any Batman spin-off, despite initially refusing offer anything else about the character, except that he was detail about his character. “He wouldn’t let slip on a very bad guy,” he recalls. “That wasexcept actually anything else about the character, thatenough he wastoa provoke interest! very badmy guy,” he recalls. “That was actually enough to What’s cool is, as soon as you put it on, you become the provoke my interest! character. like Christian [Bale] putsyou on become the bat the What’sIt’s cool is, when as soon as you put it on, suit, he becomes this superhero being. Youputs don’t character. It’s like when Christian [Bale] onsee thethe bat actor there anymore.” suit, he becomes this superhero being. You don’t see the Classed as anymore.” Batman’s most formidable opponent, the actor there father of oneashas relishedmost the chance to play bad once Classed Batman’s formidable opponent, the again. being evil guy,” he laughs. “You father“Iofalways one hasenjoy relished theanchance to play bad once
calibre 58 The Future’s Bright… … the future’s Tangerine. Or so Ford would have us believe. Matthew Carter investigates the changing world of car colour fads
legends of the
fall Photographer:
Anthony Edwin Fashion Editor:
Lucie Dodds
concierge 76 Legends Of The Fall The season’s biggest trends: opulent tulle from Gucci, British heritage from Ralph Lauren and chunky knits by Mark Fast
opulence Black tulle draped body with embroidery £2,250 at Gucci, 9 Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LL www.gucci.com
regulars
connoisseur
9
90 Vienna Waits For You
25 watches & jewellery
84 interiors
43 business & finance
89 travel
57 sport
98 food & drink
58 motoring
107 property
Gabriel O’Rorke visits Austria’s largest city, a cultural nexus where music, chocolate cake and dreams are made
editor’s letter
63 fashion
IWC Pilot. Engineered for aviators.
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20.07.12 14:13
RUNWILD M
A
G
R
O
U
P
Lesley Ellwood Kate Harrison
Deputy Editor Kari Rosenberg
Why? Peace Out The Peace One Day Concert will be held at Wembley Arena on 21 September to mark World Peace Day 2012, also known as Global Truce. It is the last of three concerts being produced as part of the London 2012 Cultural Olympiad, headlined by Sir Elton John. Where? Apple store
iPhone4s
When? 14-18 September
C Howell Conant-Bob Adelman Books, Inc.
Miu Miu, £550, www.miumiu.com Sarah Storey, OBE
I
Editorial Director
Deputy Editor Kari Rosenberg highlights the key people, places and events in September. Just as we’re getting over Team GB’s outstanding Olympic achievements, comes along the Paralympics, a whole new reason to get patriotic and cheer on our world-class athletes. Keep one eye on the track and the other on the catwalks...
What? Paralympics Already in full swing, Paralympic fever continues until 9 September, and we’ll be cheering Team GB all the way to the finishing line. Don’t miss the Closing Ceremony, where British rock band Coldplay will perform a live, one-off concert in the Olympic stadium.
D
Editor-in-Chief
the W-list...
As we’re calculating how many new boots and jackets we’ll need this season, designers will be showcasing their S/S13 collections at London Fashion Week. We’re especially excited to see what great British designers Christopher Kane and Giles Deacon have in store.
E
Apple fanatics will be waiting with baited breath for the next iPhone and iPad installments, rumoured to surface this month. While nobody is certain when the latest gadgets will be released, no doubt Apple mania will be coming soon to a queue near you.
Who? Grace Kelly She made her big screen debut in Fourteen Hours, but Oscar winning actress Grace Kelly, aka Princess Grace of Monaco, is remembered for her beauty, style, and well, grace, as much as her acting skills. 14 September marks the 30th anniversary of her untimely death.
Fashion Editor Lucie Dodds
Motoring Editor Matthew Carter
Assistant Editors
Richard Brown, Gabrielle Lane
Editorial Assistants
Olivia Sharpe, Rajdeep Sandhu
Head of Design Hiren Chandarana
Brand Consistency Laddawan Juhong
Designer
Sarah Connell
Production Manager Fiona Fenwick
Production
Hugo Wheatley
Head of Projects Ella Kilgarriff
Senior Property Manager Samantha Ratcliffe
Head of Finance Elton Hopkins
Managing Director Eren Ellwood
7 Heron Quay, Canary Wharf London, E14 4JB T: 020 7987 4320 F: 020 7005 0045 www.rwmg.co.uk
Image courtesy of Hackett Men’s Fashion News p. 70
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P L E A S E E N J OY O U R C H A M PA G N E R E S P O N S I B LY DRINKAWARE .CO.UK
September
from the editor...
I
t was Mark Twain that said: “Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.”
As we usher in a new season, our eyes focused squarely on the brocade-clad catwalks, there’s no doubt that our garments of choice speak a thousand words; not only about the person we are, but about the person we want to be. This being our fashion issue, we thought it only good and proper to bring to you the most wearable trends for AW/12, taking you from the boardroom to the bar; sharp, smart and stylish. From our fashion news pages (from p. 69) to our shoot (p. 76) we show you how to get dressed this month – think head to toe leather, oversized coats, chunky knits and downturn-busting opulence. Dress for success is the message this autumn. Read our in-depth interview with the queen of sparkles, Anya Hindmarch, MBE. Having recently received the Veuve Clicquot Business Woman Award, the Essex-born designer shares her somewhat bumpy journey to success, as well as her plans for international expansion despite the recession (p. 14). As men’s fashion takes centre stage, we take a look at the tradition of men’s tailoring, a very British heritage indeed: suits you, sir (p. 18). And don’t miss our têteà-tête with home grown muscle man – the most dapper Englishman in Hollywood – Tom Hardy, ahead of his latest film release (p. 10). He talks
“webcam” fatherhood, bad-boy typecasts and making the most of his success: “I may as well make hay while the sun shines”. Indeed. Elsewhere, we consider the share performance of luxury fashion houses over the last 12 months (p. 50) assessing key market players and longterm investment strategies; why high-end brands and high-street chains utilise the benefits of collaborating (p. 44) and how top industry names retain exclusivity when faced with the demands of modern marketing through social media (p. 52). Travel in style to the beautiful Vienna and sample the world’s most famous cake, washed down with hot chocolate, and some, er, strudel. But there’s far more to Vienna than just sweet treats: the schnitzel is not to be missed either (p. 90). And if Austria doesn’t take your fancy, head to the glamorous Sorrento (p. 94), or flamenco filled Madrid (p. 96) for your late summer getaway. And of course, following Great Britain’s outstanding Olympic achievements, we can’t wait for the Paralympics, a whole new reason to get patriotic. Once again, good luck Team GB!
Kate
Kate Harrison Editorial Director
feature interview
Hard
lines Tom Hardy has quickly become a big name in Hollywood. But is the British actor biting off more than he can chew? James Ford talks to the man who won’t turn down a script
T
om Hardy makes a valid point:“I think people who have a certain image of me are quite surprised when they find out where I grew up, where I came from. But it’s not about where you’re from – it’s about where you are now.” Having cultivated an on-screen image that’s the very personification of toughness, many would assume his art was simply imitating life, and that the actor had been ‘well hard’ from the cradle. But the tattooed Dark Knight Rises hunk had a more comfortable start than most. Growing up in the affluent London borough of East Sheen, he was the only child of Cambridge-educated writer Edward Hardy and mum Anne, an artist. It was his upbringing however, that’s made Hardy feel somewhat abashed. “There was forever this feeling of guilt and shame about being ‘privileged’,” he says. “It took me years to be okay with being from East Sheen, growing up around people carriers and cardigans and the deer in Richmond Park. It took me ages to accept that going to a public school was alright.” Not that Hardy, 34, was a model student by any means at Reed’s Public School in Surrey. Expelled for stealing and later arrested for joyriding, young Tom found it profoundly difficult to channel his teen angst. Alcohol and drugs soon became a problem too. But the stage became his saviour. Enrolling at Richmond Drama School seemed to turn it around for the fledgling star. “I mightn’t have taken it as seriously as I should have at the time, but the drama school is where I reined myself in. It was where I learned I could be really good at this.” And good he was. The pillow-lipped bad boy soon landed
bit-part roles in war saga Band of Brothers and lavish period drama Marie Antoinette, as well as far-fetched sci-fi fare in the form of Star Trek: Nemesis. But it was his searing portrayal of notorious criminal Charlie Bronson that truly put him on the map. Overnight, Hollywood wanted a piece of the most stylish yet elegantly secretive muscle man in the industry. Modest hits Warrior and Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy brought more attention but Hardy knows he has Christopher Nolan to really thank for propelling him onto the A-list, when he cast him in a scene-stealing role as Eames opposite Leonardo DiCaprio in Inception. “Chris and I understood each other from the beginning; the way he sees creativity is inspiring and brilliant. It was funny because, when The Dark Knight Rises came along, he thought I’d shy away and say no to Bane because I’d have to wear a mask for a few months.” But so impressed was Nolan with Hardy’s Inception performance, he offered Hardy the lead role in this summer’s monster Batman spin-off, despite initially refusing to offer any detail about his character. “He wouldn’t let slip on anything else about the character, except that he was a very bad guy,” he recalls. “That was actually enough to provoke my interest! What’s cool is, as soon as you put it on, you become the character. It’s like when Christian [Bale] puts on the bat suit, he becomes this superhero being. You don’t see the actor there anymore.” Classed as Batman’s most formidable opponent, the father of one has relished the chance to play bad once again. “I always enjoy being an evil guy,” he laughs.
Overnight, Hollywood wanted a piece of the most stylish yet elegantly secretive muscle man in the industry
10
Featureflash / Shutterstock.com
feature interview
Above and below: Tom Hardy in Lawless
“I’m no fool, I appreciate the stage I’m at now in my career and I feel I may as well make hay while the sun shines”
Surely there’s a break in the schedule? “Not really, if I’m honest,” he replies, frankly. “I’m no fool, I appreciate the stage I’m at now in my career and I feel I may as well make hay while the sun shines. I’ve got a family to provide for and I want to secure my son’s future, so if it means working flat out for however long, then I’ll do it. Every actor knows it’s not going to last forever.” His son, Louis Thomas, has just turned four and lives with his mum, Tom’s former girlfriend Rachael Speed. Tom, meanwhile, cohabits with fiancée, actress Charlotte Riley, who he met on the set of Wuthering Heights. The strains of Hollywood stardom, however, are starting to take their toll. “My little boy lives mostly with his mum and I see him when I can,” says Tom. “But I’m very aware that I’m a webcam father, which is not ideal. I don’t like to go more than three weeks without seeing my loved ones, but it does take some juggling. Charlotte is so busy as well so, as is the case, she goes to one side of the globe while I go to the other. It can be hard but you get by.” Given such a display of emotion, will there be a time when we see Mr Hardy in a weepy drama? “Well I certainly hope so, but there have been no offers coming my way for that sort of thing, sadly. I want to be able to do everything with my career, but I know how it works and only a rare few have the opportunity to cover the spectrum of stories being told. Right now, I’m having a great time, and not going out of my way to seek anything particular. I’m just enjoying the ride.”n
12
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City Magazine Runwild FPSeptember.indd 1
16/08/2012 12:32:14
all that Kari Rosenberg meets the brains behind the most beautiful baubled bags in Britain, Anya Hindmarch, MBE
interview
feature
I
f you’re not the proud owner of an Anya Hindmarch clutch bag, chances are you’ve admired one from afar – peering through the shop front window like a kid in a very sparkly, very expensive candy shop. But there’s far more to the celebrated British designer than just baubles, bows and toffee coloured glitter. This years’ winner of the 40th annual Veuve Clicquot Business Woman Award, Hindmarch’s empire is growing rapidly: recently valued at £70 million following a deal with a private Qatari investor group, there are more than 50 shops worldwide with an annual turnover well in excess of £20 million. And despite somewhat youthful influences this season – “take yourself back to being a child and the excitement of peering through a toy shop window at Christmas; picture all the enticing boxes, the toys that wind up, move and light up” – you’d be a fool to underestimate the hard-working mother of five, who despite the number of accolades to her name, is still pretty chuffed with her latest achievement. “Not only is it a real compliment to be deemed to share some of the qualities of Madame Veuve Clicquot herself, who was clearly a brave and pioneering woman, but also to be considered amongst my fellow finalists, Newton Investment Management chief Helena Morrissey and cofounder of the River Café Ruthie Rogers, who are both brilliant businesswomen and lovely people.” An unwavering Conservative (she helped organise the Black & White Party for the Tories in 2008) and a child of the Thatcher era – as well as the Iron Lady’s personal handbag-maker – Hindmarch was born in Essex in 1968, the daughter of a self-made business man. “My father is a role model for me. You need someone you can really lean on with the mundane ins and outs of your business. I come from a family of entrepreneurs so Christmas lunch can often be a bit like a board meeting. Margaret Thatcher was a big part of the inspiration to start my business because she encouraged people to get up and go. I have made her handbags in the past which was one of my proudest moments.” Inheriting her father’s entrepreneurial zeal along with her mother’s fine taste in accessories, Hindmarch cherished a hand-me down Gucci bag from the age of 16 and knew from that moment her fate was sealed. “From an early age I knew that I wanted to make handbags” says Hindmarch. “I used to make them out of paper when I was a child.” And thus Hindmarch learnt the power of the handbag, and the pull of luxury goods: “I think customers want to invest in unique, quality items rather than be on a waiting list for the latest ‘it’ bag.” Leaving school at 18, Hindmarch set off for Florence to learn more about the luxury goods industry. Exploring the local leather markets, she came across a drawstring leather duffel bag that she predicted would be a hit at home. Still only a teenager, she persuaded Harpers & Queen to feature her first design. “When I was 19 and living in Italy, I noticed that all the stylish Florentine women were wearing a drawstring, leather duffel bag. I loved its shape, style and the ease with which it was worn and it made me realise how powerful accessories
15
feature interview
can be in forming a perception of a woman. It inspired me. “When I returned to England, I approached Harper’s & Queen about a commission. I designed a bag for a special offer for the magazine; five hundred were sold and the Anya Hindmarch brand was created with the £7,000 profits from it.” From the late 80s to early 90s, a young Hindmarch put in the hard graft from her kitchen table in Fulham. The Italian factory she had sourced for her first designs started bootlegging her creations and selling them to Harvey Nichols and Hindmarch struggled with the logistic challenges of starting a retail business from scratch. Looking back, she faced the biggest challenges of her career while getting the business off the ground. “When I first started, finding suppliers who were willing to work with my small quantities was a big challenge so that I could sell at the right price – and then getting paid by stockists so that I could in turn pay suppliers. It’s a vicious circle. Cash flow is very hard when you start out in business. Securing retail sites is also difficult – getting landlords to take you seriously when you don’t have a proven track record can be quite soul destroying. You make mistakes every day, and I still do. You need to turn them to your advantage and learn from them.” Paying heed to her own advice, Hindmarch doesn’t dwell on the lows, and when asked for a career highlight, she is torn between meeting the Queen and receiving her MBE and opening her Bespoke boutique – “I have always wanted to have a shop that customers could visit to find really personal gifts, pieces that have been handmade and embossed with handwritten messages and drawings by craftsmen who are actually in the store.” While half the world is still combating recession, Hindmarch’s stores continue to flourish. How has she overcome the downturn? “Staying true to our values and believing in the brand. I have survived a number of recessions and in fact I launched my Bespoke Collection during the last. I have always been very careful with money and I have a huge responsibility to my team too.” Appointing former Harrods and Balenciaga CEO James McArthur as the label’s own last year was also a critical move, considering how the latter brand had flourished on McArthur’s watch. Though it’s fair to say Hindmarch still has a firm grip on the company reins. “I am genuinely passionate about my role – I love creating beautiful bags as they can really change the way that a woman feels. Plus I get to work with a great team of people that I have chosen. Having recently changed my role within the company and brought in a very experienced CEO, we have drawn up a clear five year plan with lots of international expansion.” With A/W12 influences including sweet shops, chocolate wrappers
and Christmas, (which is pretty obvious once you catch a glimpse of some of the signature pieces) bags are packaged in boxes like toys, with tinsel and baubles just some of the slightly bonkers motifs of choice. Hindmarch’s favourite pieces this season are the Tiny Tim and Ebenezer bags “for day time”, but for the evening, “it has to be the the Marano Dancer with flashing LED lights – it is such a statement piece!” But aside from the sweet wrappers, “art and architecture” actually inspire Hindmarch more than fashion does. “London really inspires me too. I like the irony of the British, the history, the architecture and the fact that it is my home.” “It’s important to keep the balance between tradition and modernisation. I love fashion that wasn’t made as fashion but ends up being fashion because of the way that it is worn – say a beautiful piece of estate jewellery that’s been worn in a nonchalant style as a hair slide.” As for a personal style mantra, Hindmarch knows what she wants, and won’t be dictated to by whimsical trends. And of course, she knows nothing can make a woman feel better than the perfect handbag. “Don’t let your clothes wear you … and a great bag can really change your mood!” While some collections change from season to season, favourites remain year on year, such as the glittering Valorie clutch bag (my own, given to me for a birthday, always brings a smile to my face) giving Hindmarch a durable niche in what can be a fast-paced throw-away luxury market. With fans spanning royalty and A-list celebrities to the girl on the street with an eye for investment purchases, Hindmarch takes pride in knowing exactly who her customer is. “The Anya Hindmarch customer is someone who is comfortable in their own style and would rather be with friends on a deserted island than in high heels on a beach any day. I really like to create very personal pieces, so that the focus is more on my customer than me.” With a very busy “but exciting” few years ahead, Hindmarch is realistic, and knows there’s no plain sailing guarantee when it comes to the luxury goods market. “There will always be some winners and losers but I believe prospects are good for brands that are seen as investment pieces and remain true to their vision.” A trustee of the Royal Academy and the Design Museum, a director of the British Fashion Council and a UK trade ambassador, while juggling five children, Hindmarch is one super-savvy businesswoman who has mastered a fantastic business, a strong identifiable brand and the art of designing beautiful handbags. To that woman peering through the window at the sweetie inspired treats this season, deciding which clutch to make her own, there’s far more than just toffee on offer. When you invest in a Hindmarch, you can be safe in the knowledge that underneath all that glitter, your asset has made it all the way from Quality Street. n
“I come from a family of entrepreneurs so Christmas lunch can often be a bit like a board meeting.”
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Below and opposite: Images courtesy of Hackett
A Cut
Above
Bolstered by the world’s current fixation with the city and its style, London’s menswear scene is booming. In the year that it celebrated its first men’s fashion week, Richard Brown considers the flourishing appetite for traditional men’s tailoring and the return of the dandy to the capital’s streets
fashion
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howcasing all things best of British, it was fitting that the country’s fashion industry took centre stage during last month’s Olympic Closing Ceremony. Fitting too, that David Gandy appeared alongside the country’s foremost fashion queens Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell and Lily Cole. As the world’s only male ‘supermodel’, Gandy has been spearheading the rise of men’s fashion for some time, and in the year that London celebrated its first men’s fashion week, his gold-suited Olympic inclusion was a pertinent nod to the flourishing state of British menswear. Had you happened to be in the vicinity of Covent Garden’s Hospital Club between 15 and 17 June, you would have borne witness to just how far things have come. The private members’ club formed the hub of the inaugural ‘London Collections: Men’ (LC:M), an event bookended by HRH the Prince of Wales’s launch party and a starstudded closing shindig hosted by Burberry’s Christopher Bailey and Eddie Redmayne. Gandy, Elton John, Jessie J and Tinie Tempah were among those gracing the event’s front rows, as the likes of Paul Smith, Richard James and Hardy Amies proved that London is as smart on the streets as it is on television. Indeed, not since the sixties has menswear been so smart. Last year the world watched as a magnificently groomed Prince William married the future Duchess of Cambridge in an Irish Guards Tunic made by London’s Kashket & Partners. It was an example of the reputation for meticulousness on which British tailoring has been built, and the sort of traditional rules of dressing that have been inspiring London’s hipsters for a number of years. While you won’t spot too many dandies sporting full blown military uniforms on the capital’s streets (certain areas of Dalston excluded), dressing up, in the gentlemen’s sense, is undeniably back ‘on trend’. Properness has replaced scruffiness, casualwear is out, brogues, tailored suits and tweed jackets are in. Dylan Jones, Editor of GQ and Chair of the London Collections Menswear Committee, helps provide an insight as to why: “We are in the middle of a very long, dark
Properness has replaced scruffiness, casualwear is out, brogues, tailored suits and tweed jackets are in
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Above from top: Alexa Chung, David Gandy and Savile Row apprentice tailors in the Savile Row shoot to celebrate the launch of London Collections: Men and ‘Fashion is GREAT’ (Photographer: George Garnier); Image courtesy of Hackett Opposite page from top: Lawrence Dallaglio, Nick Hart and Benedict Cumberbatch at Spencer Hart’s LC:M runway show; Benedict Cumberbatch; Reggie Yates and David Gandy at same Spencer Hart show; HRH the Prince of Wales, Caroline Rush and J.W Anderson at LC:M launch party; Dylan Jones speaking at same event (Photographer: Roo Kendall)
recession, and formal wear always flourishes in times of economic uncertainty. However, there is a greater, deeper and more comprehensive offer in menswear here than ever before. Importantly it’s also available at every entry level, and it’s possible to be well dressed at all price points, formal or casual, young or old.” The notion that to be well turned out, nowadays, needn’t require a trip to Savile Row was underlined by the fact that it was one of the high street’s, rather than high fashion’s, biggest names that helped LC:M get off the ground. Having revolutionised the way men thought about fashion during the last two decades, and as supporters of previous men’s fashion days at London Fashion Week, Topman had believed in a standalone menswear programme for some time. Natural, then, that the company’s premium collection, Topman Design, should help kick-off proceedings on the first day of the first LC:M. Elsewhere, Superdry was another high street brand moving to quench the appetite for formal menswear by collaborating with British tailor Timothy Everest. While the two brands operate at opposing ends of the clothing spectrum, Superdry were able to utilise Everest’s sartorial expertise while the latter was presumably keen to capitalise on the former’s commercial reach. The collection was launched on the first day of LC:M, just one of the collaborations that highlighted the diversity of London and its menswear designers. It seems across the board, brands are showing an eagerness to capitalise on the current trend for all things formal. As traditional, high-end
tailors continue to benefit from the economic rise of the east and its appetite for anything with an association with Savile Row, British high street chains are recognising the lucrative gains of providing tailored fits at cheaper price points. After a 12 year absence from the industry, 2012 saw Jigsaw launch its first collection dedicated to men, featuring a range of bold flannel block-check blazers inspired by the legendary tailor Tommy Nutter, while Marks & Spencer has recently announced it will be teaming up with Richard James to extend its Savile Row-inspired men’s capsule range into a full collection this autumn – giving punters the opportunity to buy what is effectively a Richard James suit from just £299. In times of economic austerity, and in an industry where history and heritage means everything, you’d think the barriers to entry would be myriad and manifest – and they are. And yet, despite the difficulty of securing financial backing and sourcing fabric, a maker and a marketing budget, a significant number of British start-ups are creating waves within the established pool of home-grown tailoring talent. A quick look at the brands exhibiting at October’s inaugural Best of Britannia retrospective – an event designed to reestablish the days when the stamp Made in Britain stood for something more – proves a case in point. Among the interior designers, cycle specialists and shoemakers in attendance, Dashing Tweeds, Gresham Blake and Blake London will all be showcasing their tailorinspired collections. While all peddle some sort of fellowship with Savile Row, each is finding
fashion
success by challenging the menswear market with their unique take on traditional tailoring – whether that be through colour and cut or fabric and flamboyance. Of course, such brands go forth on the back of an industry whose reputation has been built on decades of talent and craft. As Stephen Williams, founder of Canary Wharf’s English Tailoring, explains, Britain’s status as the world’s best suit maker stretches back to the time of Horatio Nelson. “In those days many officers had their uniforms made in Savile Row. Their success and victories made a perfect stage for the world to view England’s fine tailoring. Centuries later, politicians like Winston Churchill and Hollywood filmstars like Cary Grant, favourites of Savile Row, made sure that elegantly tailored suits were never out of the limelight.” Counting Hector Powe and Pierre Cardine amongst his previous employers, Williams has been plying his trade for more than 30 years. While other areas of apparel change with the seasons, Williams, whose services command long waiting lists despite the fact that he has never shelled out for advertising, is sure that the bespoke suit will never go out of fashion. “Depending on the amount of wear you will use your suit for, bespoke offers supreme value for money. It will outlast a massproduced suit by years. Combine this with a superb fit and exceptional comfort, and you can be safe in the knowledge that wherever you travel, whoever you meet, your clothing will be unrivalled.” What, then, of the future of tailoring and British menswear? If the success of LC:M is anything to go by then the appetite for British brands shows no signs of waning. “The momentum was amazing and we were all totally amazed by the reaction,” explains Jones. “We had initially planned the week as a legacy event, to coincide with the Jubilee and the Olympics, but we soon realised that there was such an appetite for it that it would have to become a bonafide seasonal fashion week.”
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Jones believes that extending what was men’s fashion day at London Fashion Week into the three day London Collections: Men was a move borne out of necessity rather than vanity. “There was a genuine demand for it. We weren’t trying to replicate what happens in Milan or Paris. We wanted to organise an event which celebrated the diversity of London. We have Savile Row, iconic designers, great street style – there is more diversity here in terms of culture and fashion than anywhere else in the world.” While Jones and the British Fashion Council may never have intended to imitate the most famous fashion shows on the continent, what they created proved that British menswear can more than hold its own on the global stage. In addition to the designers taking part, a host of fashionconscious celebrities and online and print magazine editors ensured that the dates of future shows will feature firmly on the international fashion calendar. Jones promises that the next LC:M (scheduled for January 2013) will feature more designers from the US, Italy and the Far East. June’s event, however, was almost exclusively about celebrating the best of British. Runways were largely ruled by the tailored suit and quirky takes on more traditional formal wear. The ever reliable bastion of British menswear, Hackett, showcased its signature style by playing on English eccentricity and re-engineering preppy classics. The aforementioned Dashing Tweeds and Timothy Everest injected some fun by rejecting stuffiness, while the likes of Richard James, Hardy Amies, E. Tautz and Spencer Hart remained truer to the traditions of ‘the Row’. In an age of smartness not seen since the golden age of Hollywood, where tailored precision and English eccentricity rule the agenda, a rich supply of old and new talent ensures that London continues to reign on the global fashion stage. n
Across the board, brands are showing an eagerness to capitalise on the current trend for all things formal
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interview the cartier odyssey watches one hyde park men’s trend haute horology ........
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A Russian Empire
T With its opulent design and signature couture detailing, it is no surprise that Fabergé is the jeweller inspiring the fashion designers this season
he enigma surrounding the Fabergé eggs has mystified artists and writers for more than a century. Once the official jeweller to the great Imperial Court, the whereabouts of many of the House of Fabergé’s works of art still remain unknown following the Russian Revolution in 1917, which resulted in the appropriation of its workshops and treasures by the Bolsheviks. The House of Fabergé’s legendary story is still inspiring leading fashion designers today, shown by the jewelled objets d’art which have taken to this year’s runways in A/W12 collections. For his
second collection for Balmain, Olivier Rousteing drew inspiration from the moonstone egg bought by Richard Burton for Elizabeth Taylor following his visit to Christie’s in New York where the gilded ornament is currently on display. From this sprung his latest line: bejewelled velvets, Cossack tailoring with pearl and diamond embroidery and decadent high-collars. The Fabergé-inspired motifs are also present on velvet trousers and skirts, boxy leather jackets and couture ‘sweatshirts’ topped with matelasséinspired embroideries, complete with pearl, crystal and gold beading. n
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From the Honeycomb Eternelle Ring Collection
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3 of the best...
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FASHION JEWELLERY DESIGNERS
news Fortune’s Fool The leaders in the world of fine jewellery will come together in September at Paris’ Grand Palais for the 26th Biennale des Antiquaires antiques show, presided over by Karl Lagerfeld. Boucheron, Cartier, Chanel, Harry Winston, Piaget, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari, Chaumet, Dior, and Wallace Chan, the first Asian jewellery house to be invited, will all be at the show. For its newest Palais de la Chance High Jewellery collection, Van Cleef & Arpels has, quite literally, looked to the stars for inspiration. Having always been inspired by a rich source of symbolism, the French maison has reinterpreted the animals and human figures which make up the Zodiac signs and transfigured them into its signature style – incorporating elegance, beauty and femininity.
Plume enchantée earrings POA, Chanel www.chanel.com
Biennale des Antiquaires, 14-23 September
Cutting Edge In line with its innovative spirit and love for mixed materials, Adler is now designing jewels with carbon fibre and, in so doing, has extended Champs-Elysées ring, POA
the creative limits of haute joaillerie
Louis Vuitton www.louisvuitton.co.UK
Often, a stone will inspire an idea through its shape, colour or a free association it triggers... Passion and sensitivity do the rest; an idea emerges, a sketch is etched, a drawing takes shape and finally, a jewel is born Necklace and bracelet in carbon, in white and yellow gold set with brown diamonds and diamonds, POA Adler, www.adler.ch
My Dior ring in white gold and diamonds, £8,900 www.dior.com
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The Cartier
Odyssey
Annabel Harrison steps back in time to unravel the glittering, romance-infused history of French jewellery house Cartier, speaking to François Le Troquer, Managing Director, and Arnaud Bamberger, Executive Chairman UK, about the brand’s 165 years
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Left: Panthère brooch in onyx and diamonds, 1980 © Harriet Hubbard Ayer / Cartier Above: Snake necklace, Cartier Paris, special order, 1968 Nick Welsh, Cartier Collection © Cartier
he street is silent. It is night-time and light floods only from wrought-iron street lamps, illuminating the facade of a Parisian shop front, which is inscribed with seven golden letters: Cartier. The shop window displays a bejewelled panther in a miniature atrium, dwarfed by colossal cream pillars. Beams of light filter through the roof aperture, shattering the panther’s coat into a sparkling stream of diamonds and animating the beautiful beast. Accompanied by evocative music, the panther roams through an epic fantasyland, leaping from Paris to Russia via India and China, as French commercial director Bruno Aveillan navigates 165 years of Cartier’s history. To me, these are three and a half minutes of mesmerising escapism and it seems the rest of the world agrees; published on 2 March this year, the film has had 15,648,000 views worldwide, an astounding number. Indeed, the jewellery house may be French in origin but its customers and reputation are international. François Le Troquer, Managing Director, has worked on five continents and confirms that Cartier has always been inspired by international expansion and different cultures, as shown in the film: “L’Odyssée de Cartier, where the iconic panther traverses different countries that have inspired the Maison, illustrates this perfectly. At the moment we have fast growth in China, Russia, the Middle East but the UK is still one of the leading markets in the world, because London is very international.” In fact, London began to play its part in Cartier’s history at the start of the 20th century. In 1847, LouisFrançois Cartier had taken over the jewellery workshop
of his apprenticeship master Adolphe Picard at 29 Rue Montorgueil in Paris, and just nine years later, Princess Mathilde, niece of Napoleon I and cousin to Emperor Napoleon III, had made her first purchase from Cartier. In 1902, Pierre Cartier, Alfred’s second son, opened a branch at 4 New Burlington Street, coinciding with the coronation of King Edward VII; two years later, Cartier received its first royal warrant as official purveyor to King Edward VII of England. A second London boutique opened at 175-176 New Bond Street in 1909. International, and glamorous, royals have also played a significant part in Cartier’s history, forging an enduring relationship that holds fast to this day. For her marriage to Prince Rainier in 1956, Princess Grace received many gifts by Cartier including her engagement ring, set with an emerald-cut diamond of 12 carats. One of many superlatives bestowed upon Cartier’s early products, the smallest wristwatch in the world was given to Princess Elizabeth of England in 1938 and a decade later, the Duke of Windsor ordered a platinum panther brooch, a golden cat with black enamel spots crouching on an emerald cabochon, encouraging Cartier to develop a threedimensional panther motif for the first time. The elegant Duchess of Windsor made the big cat a highly fashionable emblem, as did Barbara Hutton, the world’s richest heiress in 1957, whose first piece was a fully jointed tiger broochclip, followed by drop earrings and a bracelet. Grand, whimsical and fascinating pieces for grand, whimsical and fascinating clients, the panther’s journey is also fascinating (surely why so much time and money must have been spent on the Cartier Odyssey). Jeanne Toussaint
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Above, from left: Evalyn Walsh McLean; the Cartier boutique in New York (both from the Cartier Archives © Cartier); Film stills courtesy of Cartier
joined the company in 1918 and nurtured a passion for what Cartier deems “the aesthetic universe of the panther”, in conjunction with the designer Peter Lemarchand, who had spent many hours sketching at a zoo in Vincennes and thus his powers of observation and his partnership with Toussaint, together with the talent of the Cartier gemsetters, resulted in the panther becoming one of the great legends of Cartier creativity. Watches, jewellery and a perfume have all joined the feline product menagerie over the decades and for several of these decades, one Arnaud Bamberger has been at the helm as Executive Chairman UK. “I noticed a company in Paris called Le Must de Cartier run by Alain Dominique Perrin and I loved the way he was communicating in all the press about the company and its products. I wanted to work with this person and I took a chance; that’s how I started.” The panther must surely be considered the epitome of luxurious emblems, then, given Bamberger’s stance on fashion and luxury: “Fashion is more ephemeral and accessible; luxury on the other hand is timeless. Fashion changes with the season, luxury is longstanding and one could even say beyond fashion. Fashion has energy, luxury has weight. Fashion is for everybody; luxury is for the few.” However, despite this exclusivity, Le Troquer adds that “the luxury market has spread into different sectors of society and different sectors of the globe. It now has a much bigger market, much more freely available through exposure to modern media. There is a constant back and forth between exclusivity and being accessible to new customers as well as between tradition and modernity.” A media channel which has continued to influence the public impression of Cartier is film; in the decades prior to the
Odyssey film, the iconic red box had repeatedly appeared on the silver screen as the world’s most beautiful and stylish women appeared wearing, and being given, Cartier. Its jewellery appeared on the Broadway stage in Anita Loos’ play Gentlemen Prefer Blondes and Miss Marilyn Monroe sang “Cartier!” in the film version. In 1969, Cartier acquired an exceptional pear-shaped diamond of 69.42 carats and sold it to Richard Burton. He gave it to Elizabeth Taylor for her birthday and the famous diamond was thus renamed the Taylor-Burton. Cartier also loaned a significant part of its Art Deco style jewellery collection for The Great Gatsby, directed by Jack Clayton and starring Robert Redford and Mia Farrow (1974). So who is the Cartier customer, aside from the film stars and global style icons and Hollywood heavyweights? “A typical Cartier client has an appreciation and understanding for the upmost quality and innovation”, Le Troquer explains, “such as our great advances in fine watchmaking over the past few years or our historic involvement in the Biennale des Antiquaires this September, where we are the largest exhibitor and will showcase a stunning high jewellery collection. The Cartier customer pursues the ultimate experience alongside the best quality of jewels, watches and precious objects.” This advance in fine watchmaking is of particular interest to me; as a little girl, I first associated Cartier with the most sparkling of diamonds and precious jewels. Knowledge about its watchmaking followed years later, when I was given my mother’s beautiful Must de Cartier watch and I discovered it was Cartier that created the Santos, the first modern wristwatch in 1904, and the iconic Tank (one of my personal favourites) in 1916. Bamberger agrees with me: “I own a nice collection of Cartier watches but my favourite is the Cartier
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Tank Normale, pre- 1950s, yellow gold with a leather strap.” Bamberger’s passion for his brand is evident, as he praises the rich history and heritage which confirms Cartier’s status as one of the leading horological innovators; “Right up to this day we are pushing the boundaries with our Concept watches, with ID One launched in 2009 and ID Two a few weeks ago.” The ID One is the first adjustment-free watch in the industry and the ID Two is aptly described by Christie’s’ blog as “a continuation of the endless quest to harness watch mechanics to measure precise time.” A vacuumed environment was created in a Calibre case made of a material called Ceramyst which is completely clear. The familiar ‘tradition versus innovation’ mantra is stringently adhered to; “Cartier will always be a leader in innovation by maintaining a commitment and continual awareness of technological development and movements in design while not losing sight of its own aesthetic and design heritage.” Bamberger ends by answering my question about having lived and worked in New York, Paris and London. “I find all three cities so distinctive and unique in their own ways. Paris for me speaks romance and a stimulating interaction between heritage and innovation whereas New York is distinctive for its energy and optimism. London is an extremely international capital with many nationalities living there as well as different communities but overall the British are people I love and find extremely sensitive, funny and full of spirit. It was a long time ago one said that you don’t eat well in Britain but this is not true nowadays. In London, it is all about the quality of life.” Quite. Now do excuse me; I’m off to Bond Street and half keeping an eye out for the panther. n www.cartier.com
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International OffEring Following collaborations between Breitling and Bentley, Parmigiani Fleurier and Bugatti, and Hublot and Ferrari, Blancpain and Lamborghini are proving that partnerships between the makers of watches and the purveyors of automobiles remain as popular as ever. The Swiss horological specialists joined the supercar giant in Japan to co-launch the Lamborghini LP-570 Gallardo Stradale and Blancpain’s L-Evolution R 8886F. Dedicated to the world of motorsport, the timepiece was unveiled at the mystical Fuji International Speedway against a backdrop of a cloudy Mount Fuji – a suitably striking setting for the dramatic red and black timepiece. www.blancpain.com
Motorbike M.A.D So theatrical and mean looking are Chicara Nagata’s motorbikes that even a Swiss policeman admitted he wouldn’t dare pull over a driver of one. The remark was made in Geneva as the Japanese artist wheeled his creations into MB&F’s M.A.D Gallery, a space dedicated to what the watch company likes to call Mechanical Art Devices, products made to make your heart beat that little bit faster. After
the 7,000 man hours Chicara put into making each of his two-wheeled sculptures, he spent another seven hours polishing each one inside the gallery. To view the sort of mind-blowing designs for which MB&F has become famous, head to Geneva before February 2013; three of Chicara’s motorbikes are on display until then. M.A.D. Gallery, Rue Verdaine, Geneva
One to Watch Each month we select our timepiece of the moment from the watch world’s latest releases
Since its launch in 1976, the Nautilus, with its striking statement of casual elegance, has developed a cult following. You can see why in this year’s 5726, the first Nautilus model with an Annual Calendar Nautilus 5726, £28,550, Patek Philippe Available at Watches of Switzerland, 22 Royal Exchange
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Track Day Time Honouring Great Britain as the home of Formula 1TM – its management and most of its teams are based here, after all – Hublot has unveiled the F1 King Power Great Britain. Available in a limited edition of 250 pieces, the watch features a bezel adorned with multiple holes to evoke a high performance brake disc and is executed in a range of high-tech materials directly inspired by Formula 1TM. The watch has a 48mm case, skeleton dial and is water resistant to 100 metres. F1 King Power Great Britain £23,000 Hublot Boutique, 31 New Bond Street, and Harrods www.hublot.com
THE ART OF SWISS WATCH MAKING MAJOR SWISS WATCH BRANDS THAT ARE NEW BUT NO LONGER IN CURRENT COLLECTIONS SOLD WITH AN INTERNATIONAL GUARANTEE
ALAIN SILBERSTEIN AUDEMARS PIGUET BLANCPAIN CARLO FERRARA DE GRISOGONO FRANCK MULLER HUBLOT PIERRE KUNZ PIERRE DE ROCHE
The Luxury of
Space and Time Annabel Harrison speaks to David Coleridge, Chairman and Chief Executive of DM London, about One Hyde Park, the jewel in The Watch Gallery’s crown, and its success to date
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f you have spent any time at all in the vicinity of Knightsbridge in the past few years, you cannot fail to have noticed the four buildings that now comprise Nick and Christian Candy’s One Hyde Park development slowly but surely rising heavenwards. Completed last January, and designed by Rogers, Stirk, Harbour and Partners, the gleaming buildings house lavish apartments with luxurious interiors and the latest in modcons and must-haves. Bring your gaze to ground level, though, and you’ll notice a glass-fronted, cream emporium with immaculate wooden panelling and touches of a familiar signature dark green. This is not just a Rolex boutique; it’s the largest in Europe (at 3,000 square feet) with, as you’d expect, the
largest selection of Rolex watches in Europe. It is owned and operated by The Watch Gallery, housed under the DM London umbrella, which also includes the Selfridges Wonder Room and a Watch Gallery on the Fulham Road in its portfolio. Chairman of The Watch Gallery, David Coleridge, who sports a steel Rolex Daytona, commented that “London, and specifically Knightsbridge, has been at the forefront of luxury shopping for years... Our ambition is to make this the most enjoyable place in the world to buy a Rolex.” Coleridge founded DM London six years ago after 20 years at luxury goods company Richemont and this twodecade period, unsurprisingly, gave him essential experience: “If you are starting your own business or buying a company,
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Top five Adrian Maronneau, Head of Buying, chooses his top five Rolex models
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18-carat Rose Gold Daytona on bracelet: £25,100
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Yacht Master II Stainless Steel and Rose Gold: £16,770
3 it is critical that it is in an industry that is very familiar – you cannot learn an industry and how to run your own company all at the same time. At Richemont you report to a Chief Executive; today it’s just a bank manager!” This familiarity, as well as “the most prominent position on one of the busiest junctions in London”, have surely played a huge part in the boutique achieving year three expectations in year one, a quite astounding statistic. The interior design style is exactly what you would expect from Rolex. The colour palette is clean and neutral, apart from the signature green splashes, and no expense has been spared, with materials used including multi-layered Italian aqua glass, Crema Marfil Spanish marble flooring and Rolex Jubilee pattern embossed leather walls. Browsing is, of course, welcome but I’d say that this boutique comes into its own if you’re a VIP client or existing customer. VIPs can be whisked away from prying eyes into a private suite (in case you might wish to make a substantial purchase) and the on-site expert watchmaker can advise on all technical aspects of the brand; feel free to ask how deep you could dive in your Yacht Master or the manufacturing process behind your Datejust. Take your Rolex in, also, for any normal servicing and repair requirements which can be done on site in a Rolex purpose-designed workshop – a reassuring fact when sometimes it can take weeks or months to retrieve your watch from its MOT or battery replacement. The specialised equipment includes a watchmaker’s bench built by Rolex in Switzerland and Rolex-designed polishing equipment along with machines to test water resistance on the famous Rolex Oyster and Submariner models. Whether you’re a Rolex connoisseur or rather more of a beginner, welcome to Rolex’ world. n
Lady Datejust 18-carat White and Yellow Gold: £12,400
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Datejust II Stainless Steel: £4,800
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Skydweller 18-carat Rose Gold on strap: £26,290 (new at BASELWORLD 2012)
Rolex by The Watch Gallery One Hyde Park, 100 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LJ 020 7292 0345; www.thewatchgallery.co.uk/rolex
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Haute horology When fashion brands cross into the world of luxury accessories, the results can be astonishingly eye-catching
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8 9 1 Tambour Minute Repeater, €250,000 to order, Louis Vuitton, www.louisvuitton.co.uk 2 Conquistador Grand Prix Centre Seconds, POA, Franck Muller at Marcus Watches, 170 New Bond Street www.marcuswatches.co.uk 3 Black Rhodium Tarsier Necklace, £300, Violet Darkling, www.violetdarkling.com 4 Stainless Steel Black Ion Plating Ring, €99, Emporio Armani, www.armani.com 5 Ebony and White Gold Skull Bracelet, £690, Luis Morais, www.luismorais.com 6 RT SE Constellation Oval Cufflinks, £105, Tateossian, 1-4 Royal Exchange 7 Intrecciato Woven Briefcase £1,905, Bottega Veneta, www.bottegaveneta.com 8 RT Real Dice Key Ring, £95, Tateossian, as before 9 Histoire de Tourbillon 2, POA Harry Winston, www.harrywinston.com 10 Matte Black Rhodium Fossa Ring, £350, Violet Darkling, as before 11 Enamelled Metal Fly Cufflinks, £75, Paul Smith, 9-11 Langley Court, Covent Garden
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Swiss movement, English heart
Swiss made / 25 jewel automatic movement / 3 counter multi-function chronograph (hours, minutes and stop second) / Carbon Fibre Dial / Internal tachymeter Diameter: 42mm / Calibre: ETA 7750
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SHOPPING
start as you mean to go on R
ainer Becker’s ROKA restaurant in Canary Wharf has introduced a luxurious lift to the start of the week. A selection of exquisite lobster and wagyu dishes will be available every Monday to accompany the restaurant’s award wining robatayaki cuisine. At ROKA Canary Wharf the grade nine Wagyu, alongside the native lobster, on Mondays is reduced in price to allow more people the opportunity to enjoy it. "We wanted to let people experience some of the more expensive ingredients on the menu", commented head chef Cristian Bravaccini. "This way people get a taste of dishes they might not normally order." Creator of ROKA, Rainer Becker, was the first chef to bring the robata grill to Europe and his vision for ROKA was to place the grill in the centre of the restaurant, exuding warmth and energy - the heart of the room with guests surrounding it. His menu concept was to offer a selection of dishes made for sharing. The luxury menu on Mondays fits perfectly with that and is created to be mixed with other less expensive dishes. The wagyu steaks: ribeye, sirloin or fillet are served with earthy eryngii mushrooms and wasabi ponzu sauce. Whereas the lobster is presented five ways; as sashimi with ikura yuzu and truffle dressing, as tempura with spicy yuzu mayonnaise, there is also a pan fried version with umeboshi and moromi miso. For the ultimate in luxury comfort food, try the lobster hotpot with miso butter and yuzu tobiko. Top Tip! Why not really indulge? Monday Madness at ROKA offers the exquisite Krug champagne for £18 a glass or £110 a bottle - Mondays only.
Lobster dishes available only on Mondays and are offered at a reduced price of £20. Wagyu beef dishes are £40 on Mondays and £68 at all other times. ROKA The Park Pavilion 40 Canada Square Canary Wharf 020 7636 5288 info@rokarestaurant.com www.rokarestaurant.com
In addition to over 200 shops, cafes, bars and restaurants at weekends and on Bank Holidays you can enjoy 3 hours’ free parking in any of the public car parks when you spend £10 at any shop, café, bar or restaurant in Canary Wharf. For a full list of Cafes, Bars and restaurants check www.canarywharf.com. canarywharf.com
@yourcanarywharf
autumn/Winter
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Ready for
the Runway Revamp your wardrobe at the annual Canary Wharf Autumn / Winter Fashion Weekend. Between Friday 28 and Sunday 30 September, stores throughout Canary Wharf’s malls will offer discounts of up to 20 per cent
Black Delta Global Removable Passcase ID, £125 Tumi, Cabot Place Black Bedford T-Pass Carlton Briefcase, £795 Tumi, Cabot Place
Haque Suede Brogues £145, Reiss, Jubilee Place
Chicane Automatic Function Watch, £595, Links of London Jubilee Place
Breton Fine Gauge Stripe Sweater £130, Jaeger London Menswear Cabot Place
SHOPPING Adrienne Chunky Statement Bracelet, £59 Reiss, Cabot Place and Jubilee Place
Yates Sunglasses by Paul Smith, £235 David Clulow Cabot Place and Jubilee Place
LeaTaupe Clutch Bag £245, Trench Double Breasted Coat, £245 both L.K Bennett Jubilee Place
Red Carbon Cover for iPad 4G, £55, Tumi Cabot Place
Crocus Patent Shoulder Bag, £275, L.K Bennett Jubilee Place NW3 Willow Hat £49, Hobbs Canada Place
Stanley Leather Knee High Riding Boot £350, L.K Bennett Jubilee Place
Baskin Snake Print Patent Clutch, £70 Dune, Cabot Place
Cut Work Leather Skirt, £85, Bird Print Jacket, £65 Oasis, Jubilee Place
Friendship Bracelet £130, Links of London Jubilee Place
The Michael Bastian Grey University Blazer, £350, Gant Canada Place
Autumn/Winter Fashion Weekend discounts: David Clulow Opticians 20%; Dune 20%; Jaeger London Menswear 20%; Jaeger London Womenswear 20%; L.K. Bennett 20% (exclusions apply); Links of London 20%; Thomas Pink 20% (on purchases of £150 or more); Tumi 20% (exclusions apply); Oasis 15%; Gant 10%; Reiss 10%. Further discounts to be announced in the coming weeks. Please visit www.canarywharf.com for updates.
www.canarywharf.com
@yourcanarywharf
art Window Galleries The Ar t, Design & Lightbox Window Galleries, located in Canada Place Shopping Mall, showcase up-and-coming artists, designers and craftspeople. This month the galleries display:
Polly Horwich
Following a career in architecture, Polly moved into making jewellery. Working primarily in silver and steel she uses non-precious, everyday materials freely in her interpretations. Polly also has a strong affinity for grids, which bring order and security in place of chaos and uncertainty.
SCULPTURE AT WORK
PIECES TOGETHER: CERAMICS BY CAROL MCNICOLL AND FURNITURE BY SAM SCOTT Internationally acclaimed ceramicist Carol McNicoll and bespoke furniture maker Sam Scott are collaborating on an unusual exhibition, the first of its kind to be held in the Lobby of One Canada Square. McNicoll’s ceramics thrive on social commentary and combine the most unlikely of motifs, juxtaposing traditional patterning and contemporary images. Her ceramics will be shown on Scott’s tables, desks, sideboards and cupboards, which are exquisite pieces in their own right. Monday 24 September – Friday 16 November Lobby, One Canada Square, Canary Wharf Open daily FREE Photographs © Philip Sayer courtesy Marsden Woo Gallery
pollyhorwich.com
Dina Varpahovsky
Dina’s paintings of domestic interiors attempt to combine the logic of collage with the materiality of the painted surface. Space disintegrates into fragments, samples, fleeting memories, brief glances of walls, windows, furniture and ornaments. While the building blocks of her interiors are recognisable, the sum of the parts reads as an alternative to the visible reality. The scraps Dina picks become her own memories, her own experience.
LAST CHANCE TO SEE WE ARE TIME: PAST AND FUTURE WORKS BY EDWARD ALLINGTON Edward Allington’s sculptures provide a unique and unusual take on classical Greek and Roman themes and motifs. Tinged with irony and a great sense of artifice, Allington’s work is also about the continuum of human endeavour, looking back in order to move forward yet avoiding nostalgia. edwardallington.net
varpahovsky.org
Benvegnú Cochrane
Claiming inspiration from BBC’s Blue Planet, Barcelona based studio, Benvegnú Cochrane’s jellyfish lamp is born of the sea and every time you turn one on, your room will never be the same. A group of jellyfish invades the room creating a dreamlike and surreal atmosphere, completely changing the perception of time and space. thejellyfishlamp.com
For more information visit canarywharf.com
Until Friday 14 September Lobby, One Canada Square, Canary Wharf Open daily FREE
TERESA WITZ PRESENTS SPORTING CHAMPIONS Canary Wharf celebrates our summer of sport with a specially commissioned installation of nine life-size portraits including Vanessa Raw, David Weir, Perri Shakes-Drayton and Jeanette Kwakye. teresawitz.co.uk Until Sunday 9 September Jubilee Park, Canary Wharf Open daily FREE
canarywharf.com
@yourcanarywharf
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from good stock
H Burberry celebrates ten years on London Stock Exchange, writes Kari Rosenberg
aving warmed the shoulders of discerning Brits since 1856 – the go to brand for the classic trench – Burberry is synonymous with timeless class and style, attracting thousands of consumers to our shores each year to snap up its latest offerings. This summer, London Stock Exchange celebrated the ten year listing anniversary of Burberry Group plc. Burberry first listed on London Stock Exchange in July 2002 with a market capitalisation of £1.2 billion and an issue price of 230p. Its share price closed on 19 July this year at 1,232p – a 436 per
cent increase since listing, giving the company a market capitalisation of £5.4 billion. Since listing, Burberry’s annual revenues have grown by 272 per cent and in 2009 the company was admitted to the prestigious FTSE 100 index, alongside some of the world’s largest and most successful companies. Angela Ahrendts, Burberry Chief Executive Officer, marked the occasion by opening London trading in a Market Open Ceremony together with Burberry Chairman Sir John Peace and members of the Burberry senior executive team. n www.burberry.com
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Below: H&M collaborates with Viktor and Rolf Opposite: Karl Lagerfeld and Lanvin for H&M
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Better Together Keen to capitalise on the expertise and market position of fellow industry brands, an increasing number of fashion houses are choosing to collaborate. Richard Brown considers the benefits
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ovember 2004: Swedish retail giant H&M collaborates with fabled fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld on a collection of 30 pieces; cue feverish media interest and animated crowds outside selected H&M stores. Had either party harboured hesitations on how the line would be received, they needn’t have worried. In some shops, ‘Lagerfeld for H&M’ sold out within minutes; by day two the entire collection had disappeared, appearing on eBay at inflated prices almost immediately. While that might have been the first serious meeting between ‘high fashion’ and the High Street, the phenomenal success of the partnership ensured it wouldn’t be the last. Indeed, since then, faced with uncertain economic conditions and increasingly competitive markets, a heterogeneous host of fashion houses have taken advantage of cost-effective cobranding exercises. Whether it is to utilise external expertise to develop an innovative product, to garner credibility in a new market, or simply born from a desire to create something beautiful, luxury brands are choosing to leave the safety of their own pond and dip a tentative toe in waters unknown. Festival footwear got a whole lot chicer in 2009 when Jimmy Choo collaborated with Wellington boot-maker Hunter to produce possibly the most glam wellies of all time. An example of where two brands successfully bring something different to the collaborative table – in this case, Hunter’s reputation for quality craftsmanship and Jimmy Choo’s dedication to aspirational aesthetics – the leopardprint-lined boots commanded their own waiting list despite carrying a price tag of £250. This year alone, we’ve seen John Smedley launch a twopiece capsule collection with sportswear brand Umbro, Belgian designer Raf Simons conceive a range of jackets, jumpers and polo shirts with Fred Perry, and Paul Smith get creative with John Lobb. While these cases are examples of where fashion labels have collaborated within their own industry, there are plenty more where fashion designers have thrown themselves into projects way outside of their comfort zone. In June, fashion met photography when Hermès produced 100 limited issue cameras with Leica, while in October the
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Clockwise from top left: Matthew Williamson for H&M, Jimmy Choo collaborates with H&M, Versace for H&M, Topshop dresses by Mary Katrantzou, Victoria Beckham with the Range Rover Evoque
catwalk will meet the car-park as Victoria Beckham’s Range Rover Evoque Special Edition hits the road. The benefit of having a connection with one of the world’s most well-known fashionistas was something not lost on Land Rover’s director of design Gerry McGovern. “We’re making that transition from being the manufacturer of 4x4 vehicles to the purveyor of luxury products,” McGovern explains. “The importance of getting into the mind-set of a luxury consumer is very important. Victoria is a luxury consumer; she’s established herself in the cutthroat world of fashion and she’s got a following of a particular age profile… Of course, there’s also the PR element; she is a name.” With the standard Evoque receiving more than 100 international awards and selling over 60,000 units in its first six months, Range Rover aren’t likely to have too much trouble shifting the 200 cars to which Victoria has lent her creative input. In the tech industry too, fashion’s leading protagonists are proving that synergy can exist in even the most unlikely of places. Where Vertu first trod, Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada and Armani have all been quick to follow, collaborating with mobile phone manufacturers to produce a host of aspirational handsets – aspirational, that is, if you’re the sort of person that aspires to own a phone whose ringtones were composed by Dario Marianelli and performed by the London Symphony Orchestra (and sales figures would suggest that there are enough of you out there). While BlackBerry and Porsche Design’s P’9981 smartphone may have fallen short of that particular boast when it was launched at the start of this year, it was an undeniable example of two companies coming together to sing from the same hymn sheet. “The collaboration stems from a shared belief that form equals function,” explains Todd Wood, SVP for Industrial Design at Research In Motion (the developers of BlackBerry). “The Porsche Design P’9981 is a truly modern luxury smartphone, where the timeless style of Porsche Design meets
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the unmatched mobile experience provided by BlackBerry.” With sharp, unyielding looks and a handset comprising a forged stainless steel frame and hand-wrapped leather back, the P’9981 is a phone for those who clearly care equally about form and function, successfully incorporating into one product the shared philosophy of the two brands involved. Above all, though, it is arguably collaborations between high street chains and high-fashion designers that prove the most fruitful. For luxury clothing labels, such collaborations present an opportunity to raise brand awareness among younger generations, reach new markets and experiment with new, and sometimes, risqué collections; for high street retailers, the partnerships can dramatically increase foot fall, boost sales and generate huge amounts of media attention. In fact, so much of a bargain was the reported $1 million (£640, 539) H&M had paid Lagerfeld for his 2004 collection that the Swedish retailer wasted no time in negotiating ensuing contracts with names that included Stella McCartney, Roberto Cavalli, Matthew Williamson, Marni, Versace and Lanvin, to name but a few. In most part, each collaboration has generated eager anticipation and, once launched, has been met with a fanfare of critical acclaim. And while the exact profit margins of such collaborations are not available, the benefits tend to lie in media exposure rather than hard-line profit. Pre-dating the explosion of social media by a couple of years, ‘Lagerfeld for H&M’ narrowly missed out on the extensive internet buzz of subsequent collaborations. Market research companies estimate the online editorial coverage of partnerships launched post 2006 to run into the millions. Three months ago H&M announced that its next collaboration would be with Parisian conceptual label Maison Martin Margiela. While no design details have been released,
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the launch date of 15 November 2012 will already be in the diaries of budget-conscious fashion fans. Though it might be said that for the luxury designer involved, fashion collaborations run the risk of alienating their principal consumer base, it’s hard to find an example of a co-branding exercise that hasn’t been a categorical success. H&M may be the king of collaborations but just as keen to grab a slice of the partnership pie have been Topshop and Macy’s, between them launching collections with Christopher Kane, Jason Wu, Mary Katranzou, David Koma, Alexander McQueen and Missoni. Punters have queued through the night to get their hands on clothes by designers they normally could never afford, almost all collections have sold out and injected large sums of cash into the high street retailer taking part. It’s interesting to note, however, that if we were to collate the fashion brands present in the collective portfolios of LVMH, PPR and Richemont, only two (Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen) out of 22, have partaken in collaborations with the high street. The vast majority, including Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Gucci, Chanel, Fendi and Burberry – those fashion brands represented within Brandz’ 2011 Top 10 Luxury Brands league table – have declined to lower the price and exclusivity of their collections. To them, sales in cheaper markets do little to safeguard longevity and prestige. To quote Charles Darwin: “In the long history of humankind… those who learned to collaborate and improvise most effectively have prevailed.” Whether they’re familiar with the naturalist’s teachings or not, more and more brands are choosing to utilise the expertise and market position of others, partnering to create products they hope will captivate niche customers and new markets. And in the eye of many a fashion-conscious consumer, two brands do indeed appear to be better than one. n
“In the long history of humankind... those who have learned to collaborate and improvise have effectively prevailed”
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Home of
Heritage
Aspinal of London founder and Chairman Iain Burton talks to Kari Rosenberg about surviving the recession, career highs and lows, and his favourite handbags this season
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by-word for British heritage, quality and luxury leather goods, Aspinal of London’s elegant pieces are favoured by the Royals of Europe, as well as business men and women across the capital. Founder Iain Burton set up the company a decade ago, after ten years in the music industry working alongside Simon Cowell, followed by a stint in audio technology. Alongside Head of Design, his wife Mariya Dykalo, Iain’s dream is to create a brand legacy, one to be revered a hundred years from now. What’s your favourite piece this season? Oversized totes are one of the key shapes in handbag design and our new Marylebone Tote is absolutely stunning. Personally, I have lots of favourite pieces – for women, I’d feel almost unfaithful if I didn’t mention the Manhattan Clutch, the Brook Street Bag and the Barbarella. What was the initial business idea? I founded Aspinal when working with museums on the premise that I needed a team of English leather craftsmen to make beautiful products for working and selling through museums and cultural institutions. That was ten years ago, and now we have become an internationally recognised brand, with a strong, dedicated team and a growing loyal customer base. I have always wanted to build a business or that has the potential to grow and prosper over the next one hundred years. To leave a legacy and a successful worldwide brand would be a proud achievement. When you established the company, did you anticipate it would do so well? I am an entrepreneur. I have a background in the music business, having worked with Simon Cowell for ten years. I then built another business over ten years which became the largest provider of audio technology and audio information for visitors to museums, art galleries and historic palaces. I believed there was an opportunity in the luxury arena for an affordable but aspirational leather goods brand, so of course, I believed there was a very good chance we could be successful.
Who are your business role models? Michael Bloomberg. Of course, I am an admirer of Richard Branson, who is the greatest contemporary British entrepreneur and an amazing role model. Another role model who I am also confounded by and in awe of is my very good friend Keith McNally. Keith owns and operated a group of the best and hugely successful restaurants in New York including Balthazar and Pastis, and is just opening a Balthazar in Covent Garden with Richard Caring. How he manages to take four months off every summer, and chill out, is beyond me.
We’re proud that our products are seen both in the boardroom and on the tube How has the luxury goods industry changed since you started Aspinal? It’s almost difficult to remember ten years ago, but in our area of luxury leather stationary and office and business accessories, I believe Aspinal were ahead of the curve designing and creating wonderful ranges of colour in what had traditionally been a pretty boring, two colours per season offering. It is important that if you buy an Aspinal product today you will be pleased and proud to use it five years from now. What’s the biggest mistake you’ve made in business? People sometimes ask me for advice, especially young entrepreneurs, and I always tell them the same: unless you are absolutely passionate and dedicated about a specific subject, do business studies, or law, or both. You have to know the language of business or you’re going to make a lot more mistakes than you otherwise would. Believe me, I have made many, but you have to pick yourself up and keep going. What’s the biggest risk you’ve taken? Every business usually starts on a shoestring with no funding, the old proverb ‘where there’s a will…’ works.
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Every step and every decision has a risk attached. Some are bigger than others; and hopefully you get it right 95 per cent of the time. Making the minimum amount of mistakes is the key. What’s been the biggest challenge? Every entrepreneur will probably say that if they had known how hard it would have been to make their idea successful they would never have started the journey. In any business, it is all about people, and in the last ten years we have been gradually building a loyal and dedicated team. What’s been the highlight? Fortunately I’ve had a successful career in a number of fields, but the key highlight, for want of a better word, is still yet to come. I have no doubt that in another five to ten years, the team at Aspinal will look back with pride at what we have achieved. How have you handled the downturn? Trying to establish a brand in the luxury sector is not easy, especially when you are also trying to achieve fast growth. Like other retailers, we have faced tough decisions which have thrown into question our priorities for driving brand heritage and prestige. Last year we tended to promote sales with discount messaging, but this year we are changing that behaviour. Aspinal products speak for themselves and we will continue to ensure that we offer the very best in quality and design. How would you describe your relationship with the City? Our products have always sold well in the City as people have an instinctive feel for quality and luxury. Looking good and feeling good in your business life is important and all of our luxury portfolios and briefcases are designed and made with practicality in mind, to make a luxury companion for all meetings. We are proud that all our products are seen both in the boardroom and on the tube. We feel we have built a strong and loyal customer base throughout the City. n www.aspinaloflondon.com
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Copyright HUGOBOSS. All right reserved.
Investing in
High Fashion The Bulgari Hotel, Knightsbridge
Market analyst Brenda Kelly considers the share performance of luxury fashion brands over the last 12 months
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ince the fallout of the financial crisis, the overall state of the global economy has dented consumer confidence and negatively impacted the majority of the retail sector. When people cut back on spending in all areas but for the staples, one would have expected this type of stock to be in decline. However, there have been many factors benefiting this niche sector. One such factor is the growth in emerging markets. These have been crucial for these high-end consumer goods companies, with the rise of the nouveau riche in the BRIC (Brazil, Russia, India, China) economies showing a particular fondness for Western luxury brands. The exposure to these areas, rather than the recession-hit Western nations, helped to drive profitability during a difficult period in the economic cycle. China, for instance now accounts for approximately 40 per cent of the global luxury goods market.
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However, while 2011 saw the luxury and premium brand sector powering ahead thanks to the growing affluence in these countries, this surge may be faltering. The eurozone is teetering on the edge of collapse, America’s economy is floundering amidst sticky unemployment data and there are now real fears that the Chinese economy is on course for a hard landing. This brings bad news for any cyclical stocks. US retail sales showed a decline for the past three successive months so it’s somewhat surprising that confidence among US consumers unexpectedly rose for the first time in five months in July. The US Conference Board’s index report showed a gain in the share of consumers who anticipate better labour and economic conditions in six months but it may be a little premature to imagine that the US is out of the woods or in a position to take up any slack created by a Chinese economic slowdown.
The key players Some of the most interesting luxury goods companies include the following: Coach Inc recently reported sales of £740 million for its fourth fiscal quarter ending June 30, 2012, compared with £650 million reported in the same period of the year prior, an increase of 12 per cent. Net profit was up 28 per cent on the same period a year earlier, at £1.3 billion, while revenue rose 26 per cent to £10.1 billion, slightly surpassing the consensus forecast from analysts. Just how much of this was down to an increase in prices on the company product line is uncertain. Principally, as a dollar denominated firm, Coach is considering expansion into Western European countries such as Spain, Portugal and Britain. Once a major market, Europe now has no less than three countries in a bailout programme and Spain is a real contender for the ‘bailout club’. One has to wonder if the growth potential there is a long way off. The share price reflects this, down 30 per cent over the past six months from a high of almost £51 per share. The uptrend is in trouble and looks set for further declines with a slide back to £29 per share imminent unless it manages to retake the £32 per share level. LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy), whose assets include Bulgari and Christian Dior as well as top champagne and spirits brands, has reported that all brands had gained market share. What’s more, it was confident of sustaining its growth throughout the year. The strategy to pursue further market share gains in the historical markets as well as in high potential emerging markets is a lynchpin for the share price. Reaching an all-time high of £107 per share this year, the share price has fallen by almost three per cent in the past six months. Nonetheless, the uptrend is intact, price support at £90 is key to maintain upside while the £98 level needs to witness
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a breach in order to retarget the 2012 highs. Hugo Boss Group is planning to open 70 new stores over the course of 2012. The company seems to be on track to meet its 10 per cent growth target in the full year with all regions contributing to this, reporting double digit increases during the second quarter of 2012. Sales in the second quarter of 2012 grew by 14 per cent to £378.9 million with Europe growing by 17 per cent thanks to growth across all regions. Hugo Boss own store sales grew by four per cent on a like-for-like basis as total sales grew 16 per cent. In the first half group sales rose by 12 per cent to £852 million with Europe apparently growing in line with the wider operation. Burberry has more than 500 stores across 50 countries and the distinct advantage, for the British investor, is that there is no currency risk attached to this stock. Known for staging decent comebacks, the company seems to have an edge by embracing the power of social media to promote their Autumn/Winter collection. The latest slowdown in the share price, down 12 per cent in the past six months, can in many respects be laid at the feet of China. In spite of this, Burberry says growth opportunity in China remains high, even though first quarter growth in retail revenue from the country dropped to 13 per cent versus growth of about 20 per cent in the second half of last year. In May, Tiffany & Co. cut its fiscal year sales and profit forecast after reporting lower-than-expected first quarter earnings. This was driven by several factors, including concerns about Wall Street layoffs and cooling demand from Asia. Reaching a high of just over $84 this year, the stock price has pulled back by around 13 per cent over the past six months, and lost a shocking 31 per cent year on year. Support at £30 per share has held for now, and we may see a pullback towards the £38 mark which has been elusive since early May.
Rings: Courtesy of Tiffany & Co.
The price of a brand is not unlike fashion. It comes and it goes, sometimes inexplicably
The round up With any investment strategy, putting all of one’s eggs in a single basket can be dangerous. The price of a brand is not unlike fashion. It comes and it goes, sometimes inexplicably. While some luxury brands have seen gains driven by popularity amongst emerging markets, these companies are still susceptible to volatility like any other. Whether you invest in wine, oil companies or luxury brands, doing your research in your investment is paramount. n Brenda Kelly is a market analyst at CMC Markets www.cmcmarkets.co.uk
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Rules of
Engagement The boom in social media has left luxury brands with a question on their lips, says Rajdeep Sandhu. To engage or not to engage?
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ocial networking is ingrained in every aspect of our lives, and has changed the way we view interaction, both online and offline, forever. You only have to look at Facebook’s effect on Wall Street after being valued the largest tech IPO in history at more than $100 billion (although its value has since decreased): on its first day of trading it was worth more than McDonalds, Disney and Visa. Facebook has the attention of more than 900 million users while Twitter has 140 million, an attractive audience that many businesses have taken advantage of through targeted marketing campaigns. Yet some luxury brands have resisted the change. The majority of luxury brands have a website and Facebook page including Bulgari, De Beers and even Hermès. But on the whole, high-end brands haven’t been quick off the mark to explore the platform, with Prada, for example, only joining Facebook this year. The L2 Facebook IQ Index ranks 100 prestige and luxury brands and assesses how Facebook savvy they are. It found that while communities and fan bases had grown, luxury brands were struggling to “embrace the social and social media” aspects. A third of brands didn’t let fans post on their pages and more than 20 per cent did not engage in any two way conversations. Since the first Facebook IQ Index in June 2011, there was a 50 per cent fall in engagement rates. According to the Index, Bulgari was one of the biggest winners, rising from its ‘challenged’ status to ‘gifted’, which was attributed to stronger integration and community growth, having joined Facebook in 2009, followed by Twitter, and using both platforms to promote charity work and share pictures of celebrities sporting its products. It has also ventured into the world of smart phones, launching its own Bulgari B.Zero1 app.
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Within the last two years there has been considerable action in the field led by brands such as Burberry, an early adopter of social media. Tiffany & Co. has also coped well with the transition, keeping to its core values while promoting customer engagement through its website www.whatmakeslovetrue.com. Placing itself as an expert on romance it provides tools and advice for couples, including carefully selected hideaways to visit in New York. Building on its audience’s personal stories, couples can submit their own moments of true love to be turned into a Tiffany’s postcard. The brand has also released an iPhone app to enhance the shopping experience with its Tiffany & Co. Engagement Ring Finder. One of the biggest problems for luxury brands when engaging in social media is retaining exclusivity and complete control of the brand. Montblanc, however, doesn’t feel this poses a risk to its status and sees social media as an important part of its online strategy. “The web user has taken a new role, away from the passive, one-dimensional one towards a more interactive, multi-dimensional communication” Montblanc said. “As part of this new communication need, it is crucial for an international company to use social media in a professional and creative way. Social media is not taking over traditional marketing, it complements it. We are still using print media and other channels. But we do think there will be a shift online as trends change.” Montblanc joined Facebook in 2009 and has two Twitter accounts, an international and a US channel. In its latest promotion for the Starwalker Red Gold pen, people could upload and customise pictures using a Facebook application and were entered into a competition. “Appearances on social media platforms help to involve and engage customers and target groups, create customer loyalty and therefore strengthen the brand. Montblanc aims to engage with fans of the brand and our products, listen to them and to inspire them with interesting content, events and all kinds of other brand relevant topics.” Getting on the horse isn’t the only problem – it’s staying on that counts. New social networking sites pop up every day but can die just as quickly, so moving with social media can
pose a big challenge. Instagram, Tumblr and Pinterest, which are built around image sharing, are just a few relative newbies that have stuck around long enough to be taken seriously. The Instagram iPhone app was launched in October 2010 and it now has more than 50 million users with more than 1 billion photos shared. Luxury fashion houses Burberry, Gucci, Tiffany & Co., Jaeger LeCoultre, Marc Jacobs and Michael Kors all have a presence on the app. Franck Jehanne, co-founder of the Kalory Agency which creates photography and marketing content for luxury, fashion and beauty brands, says Instagram should be approached with caution. “Pictures taken by final customers can damage the image of brands, but you can’t really control what a consumer will post on a social media site. People take pictures and you can see the marks and scratches on products. [They] are not always being shown at their best, but it is impossible to prevent this happening.” Damage can be done by brands that neglect consistent quality benchmarks when using social media. “Brands shouldn’t neglect their imagery when it comes to social media and they should use professional photography. Some brands will use homemade pictures to match the Facebook feel of consumer created content and this can be really damaging. “A picture of a new window display will be seen more times on the internet than by a passer-by. It shouldn’t be taken on an iPhone and shared without controlling the quality of the photography and the reflections. The problem is the ease with which anyone can snap a picture without qualified photography, lighting and retouching technical skills.” Research by Unity Marketing into affluent consumers and their use of social media and the internet found that 80 per cent use some form of social media. The percentage of individuals who shopped online increased from 68 per cent in 2010 to 92 per cent in 2011. The myth that high-networth individuals don’t use social media is fading, and as more users take to these sites to voice their opinions, so too can brands use the technology to steer the conversation and set the agenda. Social media users are savvy creatures who need creativity to be captivated, but they still want the same luxury experience they would get by stepping into a store. It’s a big challenge to rise to and brands that can translate exclusivity from the shop floor to an online platform will be the ultimate winners. n
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Above: Tiffany setting engagement ring in platinum. Right: Mont Blanc Starwalker Red Gold pen
“A third of brands didn’t let fans posts on their pages and more than 20 per cent did not engage in any two way conversations”
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We prefer not to be measured by dimensions. Unless it’s a new dimension of accuracy.
No fewer than four exceptional mechanisms enhance the precision of the RICHARD LANGE TOURBILLON “Pour le Mérite”: the tiny fusée-and-chain transmission, the delicate tourbillon, the ultra-thin Lange balance spring, and – not least – the patented stop-seconds device for the tourbillon which makes it possible to
set the watch with one-second accuracy in the first place. Never before has an A. Lange & Söhne watch been endowed with so many complications that simultaneously enhance its rate accuracy, settability, and readability. And so, this remarkable timepiece truly deserves the honorary attribute “Pour le Mérite”.
Arije 165, Sloane Street London • George Pragnell 5 and 6, Wood Street, Stratford-upon-Avon Hamilton & Inches 87, George Street, Edinburgh • Harrods 87–135 Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, London Watches of Switzerland 16, New Bond Street, London • Wempe 43-44, New Bond Street, London Lange Uhren GmbH • Tel. +34 91 454 89 82 • www.lange-soehne.com
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E After fashion, photography and glassware, Lagerfeld turns his hand to safemaking, says Richard Brown
ver since teaming up with H&M in 2004, it seems Karl Lagerfeld has caught something of a collaboration bug. In the ensuing years, the German fashion designer has directed an advertising campaign for Magnum ice creams, designed new bottles for Diet Coke, created a crystal art collection for Orrefors crystal, and, in 2010, produced this watch and jewellery safe for Munichbased safe-makers DĂśttling. A puristic installation at first glance, the safe only reveals its capabilities when it identifies its owner. Then, two handcrafted interior cabinets containing
watch winders and jewellery drawers emerge from its steel body, which weighs 800 kilos and is sheathed in high-gloss, chrome-plated aluminium. Developed on paper in Paris and crafted from the most precious materials in Germany, Narcissus’ (as the safe has been named) reflective surfaces were designed to pay tribute to the personality and aesthetics of its counterpart when closed. Limited to an exclusive production run of just 30 pieces, the safe remains one of the most modern and expensive ever created. n www.doettling.com
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18 Royal Exchange, the City
59 South Audley Street, Mayfair
68/69 Burlington Arcade, Piccadilly
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London 2012
Black cab gets green
Paralympic Pursuit Last month, the likes of Sir Chris Hoy, Jessica Ennis and Ben Ainslie all delivered in their search for Olympic gold, and now it’s the chance for our Paralympic hopefuls to do the same. 100 metre sprinter Sophia Warner, swimming’s Ellie Simmonds and archery’s Danielle Brown will be among those looking to cement their place in the history books by bagging a medal at what’s sure to be the most successful Paralympic Games of all time. Every single one of the 2.5 million tickets up for sale is expected to be grabbed as Britain continues to revel in Olympic and Paralympic glory. For anyone without a ticket, watch the action on big screens at BT London Live 2012 at Trafalgar Square. www.london2012.com/paralympics
Stay cool on the commute Complete with extra utility pockets and fabric reinforcements throughout, Levi’s new Commuter range has been designed with the urban commuter cyclist in mind. The 511, 505 and Trucker Commuter products integrate an array of features that address cyclists’ performance, convenience, safety and mobility. Apparently, both the Commuter Trucker Jacket and the 511 Commuter Skinny feature just the right amount of ‘stretch’ and have been engineered using NanoSphere fabrication treatment. We’re not entirely sure what that means, exactly, but hey, they certainly look good. www.levistrauss.com
They are as iconic as the route master and red telephone box, but the London black cab may be set for an imminent face lift. Nissan has unveiled the NV200 London Taxi, a bold vision for how we are going to be getting around the capital in the years to come. Already chosen as New York City’s exclusive ‘Taxi of Tomorrow’, the Nissan NV200 offers significantly reduced CO2 outputs compared to current taxi models and will see cabbies spend around 50 per cent less on fuel. The future’s bright, the future’s green (and black).
Collectable Collaboration Lovers of fine whisky and designer brogues rejoice. The worlds of fashion and drink have collided to give us the Chivas Regal 12 Year Old Made for Gentlemen by Tim Little. The shoemaker has teamed up with the famous whisky merchants to design a collectable tin box and whisky bottle, part of a new, annual series of collaborations with modern craftsmen who share a passion for style, discernment, heritage and creativity. Made for Gentlemen will be available from prestige retailers for £25.39. www.chivas.com
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The future’s
bright... … the future’s Tangerine. Or so Ford would have us believe. Matthew Carter investigates the changing world of car colour fads
Lamborghini Aventador LP700-4
motoring
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t is said that colours reflect a national mood. When we’re happy, we choose bright lively colours; when we’re on the back foot, we go for more sombre, serious shades. If that’s true then these are good times… at least that’s what the car makers would have us believe. While sports cars like the awesome Lamborghini Aventador have always been able to get away with bold shades, the opportunity to make a colour statement is now available on more everyday machinery. Recent full page adverts in the national press for the Fiat 500 concentrate not on the little car’s power and handling, nor on its economy or low emissions. No, the adverts concentrate instead on the car’s new colour palette in which Chillout Purple, Countrypolitan Yellow and Idol Pink vie for the buyer’s attention. Over at Ford, meanwhile, the brand new Focus ST – the hottest Focus yet and a hoot to drive – has been launched in an eye catching shade of orange called Tangerine Scream. Leaving aside the suspicion that whoever came up with the name probably enjoyed a mis-spent youth listening to German electronic band Tangerine Dream while smoking funny cigarettes, the fact is that we’re buying bright ‘in-yer-face’ colours. Indeed, this is not the first time in recent history that orange has been chosen for a hot Focus. Tangerine Scream was created following the success of a shade called Electric Orange (another nod to a Krautrock band from the past) used on the previous generation ST. Purple, orange, yellow… it’s as if the 1970s had never gone away. When launching a new car, manufacturers choose a stand out ‘grabber’ colour for all the communication material – posters, adverts, brochures and so on – knowing that while it will attract attention, few buyers will be brave enough to buy a car in that particular shade. At least that used to be case. According to Serife Celebi, a colour and material design supervisor at Ford of Europe, things changed when the current Ford Fiesta was launched in 2008. Two grabber colours were chosen – a sophisticated dark red called Hot Magenta and a vivid green called Squeeze (in case you hadn’t worked
it out by now, car paint shades are obliged to have silly names). Normally the colours would have been noticed, perhaps even admired, but then given the cold shoulder as buyers opted for safer silvers, blues, blacks and reds. But this time they caught the imagination of the buyers. “Our target audience for the new Fiesta included a young, trendsetting girl about town,” says Celebi, “and she ‘got’ the colours straight away.” So even though the expensive pigments involved in making the Fiestas pearlescent and metallic shades helped to bump the price of the car up by £700 or so, they sold – and still are – selling well.
Ford Fiesta Fiat 500
At least they are in the UK. Celebi admits colours are still influenced by national traits. In Germany they choose more sober colours while whites and other lighter shades are preferred in hot climes. When it comes to bolder colours, though, she says: “Car buyers seem more adventurous in the UK.” Currently finalising exterior colours for Ford models due in 2014/2015, Celebi and her colleagues find inspiration from a number of sources including fashion shows, furniture and product fairs, music videos, new technology, sports clothing and even perfume bottles. It usually takes around three years for a new colour to make it from the drawing board to reality, though unusual colours are sometimes previewed sooner on a concept car to gauge public reaction. At the same time, colour futurists are looking at the technical side of the business, investigating new paint
calibre
effects such as ‘flop’, where the paint seems to change colour as the light hits it from different angles or the matt effect popular with the high performance brigade. The trick then is to adapt trends to suit cars. “Fashion colours for clothes can change far more rapidly than for cars so we need to come up with shades that have greater longevity,” she says, adding that special effects have an even shorter shelf life as trendsetters adopt new ideas early, but quickly move on when something else comes along. All of which explains why the vast majority of the cars on our roads are in ‘safe’ colours. According to the Society of Motor Manufacturers and Traders – the body that represents the industry – at the end of 2010 (the most recent figures available) there were more than 31 million cars on our roads with an average age of 7.25 years. And 35 per cent of those cars were dull but dependable silver or grey… though that’s got to be better than the Volkswagen experiment of a few years back. The Harlequin Polo had every panel painted a different colour and was created as a promotional tool to show off the car’s colour range, although, unbelievably, some buyers liked the idea so much it went into limited production. Tangerine Scream needs a complex four-coat process which adds to the cost of producing the car, so Ford demands an extra £745 for the colour. And don’t think that you’ll always get away with paying nothing for a solid colour. The Alfa Romeo MiTo has a 12 strong colour palette with plenty of solid finishes, but only one of which is free. The rest are called ‘special paints’ for which Alfa wants £425 a go… and they include Alfa Red, which is a bit like charging extra for the bottle when you buy a decent wine. And the ‘free’ solid? Echoing Henry Ford’s proclamation, if you don’t want to pay extra you can have your MiTo in any colour, so long as it’s black. So what colours will we driving in 2014? While keeping actual shades she’s working on close to her chest, Ford’s Celebi gives a hint when she says: “My personal preference is for bright, clean colours that project a positive influence.” So the recession is almost over, then. n
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CITYpromotion
A Cause for
Celebration
The Chubb Insurance Concours d’Elégance at Salon Privé 2012 offers a chance to see some of the most unique and beautiful cars ever made, and the whole event can be enjoyed with the added bonus of luxury dining, Pommery Champagne and spectacular live entertainment
T
he term Concours d’Elégance refers to an automobile competition that judges the designs and styles of elegant, sumptuous classic cars. Originating in Paris in the early 1920s, the competition is typified by beautiful locations, refined elegance and only the rarest and most valuable of vehicles. Still only in its sixth year, the Chubb Insurance Concours d’Elégance at Salon Privé is already regarded by many as one of the top three classic car events in the world alongside Pebble Beach and Villa d’Este. Taking judging cues from the original French Concours d’Elégance, a comprehensive points system operates at Salon Privé to correctly score vehicles not only on their elegance and style, but also their originality, authenticity and heritage. Participating judges are selected for their specific knowledge of key marques, as well as for their enthusiasm and experience in adjudicating over priceless collections of rare, classic motor vehicles. Five time Le Mans Winner, Derek Bell MBE, returning once again as chief judge said: “With such an exquisite line up of exclusives and debuts, it is an honour to have been asked to be Chief Judge again. I am particularly excited about the very special ROFGO Gulf collection and the line-up of unique shooting brakes. The only place on earth you will see such a gathering of automotive rarities is Salon Privé at Syon Park in September – and I for one wouldn’t miss it for the world.” Once again, the Concours d’Elégance is sponsored by Chubb Insurance, a leading insurer of higher-value homes, art, antiques, jewellery and cars. While not a household name, like other select brands at Salon Privé, the company pursues excellence over volume, a brand ambition epitomised by the fact they have been voted by brokers as 'Personal Insurer of the Year', seven times in the last ten years; an unparalleled accolade, which has seen Chubb as the recommended insurer for the Aston Martin Owners Club and Ferrari Owners Club. "This is Chubb's fourth year as the Concours sponsor, and we're delighted to support such a
fabulous event. It's a thrill to see that so many of our clients' cars have entered the show," said Simon Mobey, European personal insurance manager. "In 2012, we will be showcasing a range of cars that illustrate our expertise in insuring the oldest classic to the rarest supercar. On the Concours Lawn we're hosting an iconic car from the 1950s; the D-Type Jaguar, kindly loaned by a private collector and client of Chubb, which was the first sports car to lap any circuit in Britain at an average speed of over 100mph. It was the car that put Jim Clark, the Lewis Hamilton of his time, firmly on the track to international racing stardom." n
classes Class A Ferrari F40 – celebrating 25 years of an icon
Class B Pre-war rarities
Class C Closed sports cars from the Swinging Sixties
Class D Vee-Twins through the ages
Class E
Chubb Insurance Concours d’Elégance Judging Day
Open sports cars from the Swinging Sixties
Class F Collection of shooting brakes
7 September, Salon Privé 2012
Class G Bugatti – the vintage competition series
Class H Important competition machines
Class I The design class featuring Carrozzeria Touring Superleggera
Class J Mercedes-Benz Gullwing – the legend at 60
10:00am Judging begins 11:00am Event opens 12:00pm Pommery Champagne Reception 12:30pm Luncheon served in Concours VIP Area 2:00pm Placement of rosettes on winning cars 2:30 - 5.00pm Concours d’Elégance Parade and Awards Presentation, People’s Choice Award Presentation, Lime Avenue Parking Award Presentation 4:00pm English Afternoon Tea served in the Concours Awards Area 5:00pm Winners’ Lap of Honour 7:00pm Salon Privé closes
Salon PrivÉ, 5 - 7 September, syon park 10 % OFF ALL TICKETS! Quote CITY124 for your discount. Call 0808 100 2205 or buy online www.salonprivelondon.com Tickets from £195 + VAT, inclusive of Pommery Champagne, lobster luncheon, complimentary bar, afternoon tea & full access to all areas.
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New Zinc showroom now open 1 Chelsea Wharf, 15 Lots Road, London SW10 0QJ
0679_Zinc Kensington & Chelsea Ad_Apr12_AW.indd 1
09/03/2012 16:51
fashion shoot fashion news interiors
fall legends ready to wear ................................................................ bo concept . .................................
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Moses Nieto, Spain
Maria Barros, Spain
Christian Wijnants, Belgium
CO|TE, Italy
WOOL YOU WON’’T YOU??
Kari Rosenberg attends the European semi-finals for the International Woolmark Prize, one of the most coveted accolades in the industry
S
uch is the beauty of fine wool, that it launched the careers of both Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld in 1954, when both stepped onto a Paris stage and collected the International Wool Secretariat awards for coming first in the dress and coat divisions respectively. The International Woolmark Prize is the incarnation of a 60 year history of awards, supported by the Australian Wool Company, whereby more than 70 designers competed across five global regions to create beautiful capsule collections featuring Merino wool
and knitted fabrics to be judged by the biggest names in the industry. The European panel for the regional selection included artistic director at Lanvin Alber Elbaz, British designer Giles Deacon and Editor of British Vogue Alexandra Shulman. European finalist, Christian Wijnants (shown above) is based in Antwerp, Belgium. The international winner, who will be selected in February, will have their designs showcased globally in leading retail stores including Harvey Nichols. n www.woolmarkprize.com
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the fabric of
Success
Annabel Harrison meets Mulberry founder Roger Saul and son Freddie to discuss London’s unique fashion heritage, Mulberry’s lasting stamp on the industry and the pair’s latest retail venture; the rural idyll of Kilver Court in Somerset
concierge comment
© Tyson Sadlo @ www.chillimedia.com
feature
K Main image: Kilver Court Gardens Top to bottom: Roger Saul; illustration of Aubin & Wills at Kilver Court
ilver Court was an unused, monolithic Victorian building on the edge of Shepton Mallet, a town with one in four shops closed on the High Street.” However, just one year later, the story has become rather more 0 the first permanent Toast outlet and Jane Clayton & Company. Despite reservations on my part about the idea of shopping villages, which seem to sprawl and spread until just walking from one side to the other is exercise in itself and nourishment comes only in the form of Starbucks or Pret, I find myself drawn to the idea of Kilver Court. It’s not too big and it’s not trying to be everything to everyone. Its location is, as Roger points out, “quirky; discreetly tucked away, yet accessible”; close by are private schools Millfield and Downside, the site of the world-famous Glastonbury Festival and Babington House – the rural retreat of the Soho House set. It also has a wonderful history. “I bought the historic mill site”, Roger explains in his measured, eloquent manner, “in 1996 to function as Mulberry HQ but after a few years the team was rattling around and half of it was sub-let”. Not before, however, the Mulberry Factory Shop had been opened in the Old School House and the Mulberry Home Interiors Showroom in the restored Great House. Both Roger and his son Freddie talk with great enthusiasm about “the Kilver Court experience” and the more I learn about it, the more I understand why. It’s definitely not just about shopping: there’s the Harlequin Café (traditional, homemade), the Sharpham Park Shop (organic, seasonal, local) a Natural Health Centre, a Kilver Court Festival and a restaurant in the pipeline. The Kilver Court Gardens are exquisite, immaculate areas of greenery and flowers, edged by the Viaduct, and where, if you so desire, you can get married. Nonetheless, despite these delightful distractions, the focus is the unique shopping offering, including brands ranging from British-established (Mulberry, Duchamp, Margaret Howell, Mackintosh), cult favourites (Orla Kiely, MiH, Nicole Farhi, Aubin & Wills) and casualchic (Isabella Oliver, Crumpet, Karen Cole). In order to sign these brands up to his new concept, Roger put his
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concierge feature comment
Right, from top Sharpham Park Shop; Kilver Court Emporium
heavyweight fashion credentials to good use: “[Because of Mulberry] I was able to call the brands up and explain what I was doing. This set up the longer conversations for Freddie to have with the brand. They trusted me.” Roger and Freddie personally “get involved with the products that brands send to Kilver Court and help to select what we think might be most popular”, with praise for Cole’s wallpapers and Felix Lighting’s quirky NYC traffic signs. When I meet the pair, the Saul family’s eye for design and detail is evident. Roger is, as I expected, dapper and well presented, dressed smartly in a suit, waistcoat and shirt, and accessorised with a colourful pocket square and round, pale yellow glasses. Freddie is similarly dapper with a rather more eccentric haircut and relaxed demeanour but the resemblance is unmistakeable. Both sport leather bags and I need not ask where they are from. The family connection is strong; Roger replies, to the
London’s heritage of music, fashion and lifestyle has to be as rich as any in the world question “What has been the highlight of your career so far?” that, although there have been many, “currently it’s working with my son, building Kilver Court up. It’s great because we know exactly what the other is going to do.” Kilver Court also stocks and supports Bottletop products, which contribute funds towards the charity set up by Roger’s other son Cameron on his gap year in Uganda. In fact, it was Roger’s own father who set him on the path towards founding Mulberry; the brand which only last year celebrated its 40th anniversary was set up by a 20-year-old Roger with £500 he received as a birthday present from his parents. “My father started as a trainee manager at Clarks Shoe Factory in Somerset and worked his way up. I enjoyed going to work with him and roaming round this huge and very hi-tech factory. It wasn’t so much the smell of leather which impressed me so much as the hard work my father put in.” Roger’s knowledge about and passion for leather gave him an advantage; “In the UK [in 1971] you could only get black and brown leather and plain metal. Italy had much more to choose from.” Roger bought from Italy and France and sold in Portobello, and, as with all of his enterprises, Mulberry was born from a personal passion for fashion. Despite being Somerset born, Roger is full of praise for London’s fashion scene; “To me there are five real capital fashion capitals in the world – others come and go but London, Paris, Milan, Tokyo and New York are the worldwide hubs that drive the fashion industry from designer to customer. Of these, London is unique because as well as great designer shops, boutiques and designer stores, we have a combination of street fashion, designer colleges and heritage. Our heritage of music, fashion and lifestyle has to be as rich as any in the world.” With fashion in the 70s, collections had to be completely different every year – “You couldn’t get away with bringing out anything similar” – and that decade has had an enduring influence. “Trends go in waves – sometimes they’re short and choppy and sometimes long swells
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repeating at regular intervals. They are always pushed and pulled by world events, technology, culture, history etcetera but throughout my fashion career, the 70s has been the default repeat for great fashion inspiration because it was a maelstrom of fashion change, as hand in hand with music, it raced through 20 seasons, all with different silhouettes, influences and tastes... For Mulberry it was formative in that the sporting-casual hunting, shooting and fishing look we did in 75 and 76 became the hallmark of the brand.” The separation of Roger from Mulberry was well documented in the press but few would have predicted what he would turn his hand to next. Fashion to agriculture is an unusual move but one that seems to have suited Roger remarkably well. He bought the 300-acre Sharpham Park Farm in 2004 when it came up for sale alongside the family home where he and his wife had brought up their sons and went on to develop a range of organic foodstuffs. “My sister, who’d been suffering from cancer, had discovered an alternative to wheat called spelt, which had beneficial properties.” Spelt is an ancient grain with a unique, nutty flavour, perfect for bread, biscuits and cereals and ideal for those with a wheat intolerance. “Spelt became the cornerstone of our new organic enterprise. Now spelt is to Sharpham Park what handbags and belts were to Mulberry – the driving force behind the idea.” Roger is certainly not lacking a driving force, whether it’s directed at fashion or farming, and I wait with anticipation to see what he will do next. I certainly can’t guess what it might be. n Kilver Court Designer Village Shepton Mallet, Somerset, BA4 5NF www.kilvercourt.com
NEW COLLECTION OUT NOW
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BoConcept TCR · 158 Tottenham Court Road · London W1T 7NH · 0207 388 2447 · tcrlondon@boconcept.co.uk
Call or Email us for a Free copy of our Design Catalogue and ask us about our Free Interior Design Service
486_UK_TCR_1-1Fargo_Ogi_Launch_12_Canary/City/Adv.indd 1
14/8/12 11:10:28
MARK LORD BESPOKE
Menswear: Casual, Work, Occasion Wear.
www.marklordlondon.co.uk
mark@marklordlondon.co.uk | 020 7205 2171 | 07866 581 230 ML Bespoke Tailoring Ltd.
fashion
concierge
men’s fashion
news Jigsaw return to menswear British high-street label Jigsaw has announced the re-launch of Jigsaw Menswear, its first collection dedicated to men for 12 years. Inspired by personal style and high quality pieces rather than seasonal fashion trends, the range focuses on simple elegance and tailored fit. As summer turns to autumn, turn to Jigsaw’s desert boots to smarten up casual weekend looks. Jigsaw, 11 Lamb Street Old Spitalfield Market, e1 6ea
Better with age It may have dressed some of the most quintessentially British style icons, including Carl Barat, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Alex James and Roisin Murphy, but it is the Dutch model Andre Van Noord that Aubin & Wills has selected to front its latest collection. Proving that the brand caters for an older clientele than its sister company Jack Wills, the 47-year-old looks stylishly masculine in a range of classic shapes and quirky designs. Aubin & Wills, 64 - 66 Redchurch Street, E2 7DP
Urban Embrace
Shoes with Soul
If you’ve caught the Olympic bug and now find yourself inspired by all things sport, introduce yourself to Eden Park’s A/W12 collection. The brand’s roots in rugby are represented in the form of classic striped rugby shirts and sweaters, while the preppy shirts and accessories continue the sporting feel. The French style of heavy layering is also modelled throughout the collection via chunky knitwear, hard wearing lumberjack shirts and a clever mismatch of fabrics.
Having gone sporty with the launch of its cycling-inspired T-shirts back in the spring, Paul Smith now gets classic by collaborating with British boot maker John Lobb. The result of the encounter is three special edition pairs of shoes, each handmade and punctuated with the type of flair for which Paul Smith has become known. The Willoughby Derby will complement any Monday to Thursday suit, while the Lucca loafer will smarten up those casual Friday ensembles.
www.uk.eden-park.com
www.paulsmith.co.uk
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concierge fashion
Suits You
hackett Judging by these images it’s easy to see how Hackett became the official menswear stylist for the BAFTA Awards. Its Mayfair line is synonymous with sleek, streamlined tailoring and continues to grow with a new season of Savile Row inspired luxury styles. The slim Hackett Mayfair silhouette is repeated throughout this season’s collection with an emphasis placed on experimenting with colour and pattern, especially in checks. If you’ve booked
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Hackett, 117 Bishopsgate
If you’re in need of a suit for a special occasion this season, it’s worth paying a visit to your local Jaeger. Its dress jacket is crafted from British-woven Prussian twill designed to repel water so, even when dashing from the taxi to the entrance canopy, you’ll arrive stylish and pristine. The brand’s business suits cut a slim but refined suit block, tapering in at the waist to look slim and elegant without restraining the wearer. For a traditional fit, opt for the Mayfair. For a neater silhouette, select from the Contemporary range.
EC2M 3TH
Jaeger, 120 Cheapside
a skiing holiday, introduce yourself to the company’s A/W12 Alpine range. Designed to ensure you stay stylish during après ski, the range features the finest cashmere knitwear and a colour palette based on winter white and tones of camel and chocolate. For authentic tweeds and chunky cable knits check out Hackett’s Town and Country offering.
EC2V 6BT
Hollywood Inspired
London calling for Louboutin
Following the unveiling of its Bogie Bag at the start of the summer, S.T. Dupont has announced it will be launching a Night Symphony version of the bag. Taking on new dimensions, the Night Symphony Bogie comes in deep black oilskin with reinforced corners in tone-on-tone leather. Sleek and sophisticated, it will be sure to get you noticed. The bag will cost £1,400 when it is launched in Harrods and Selfridges in November.
Proving that fashion no longer focuses on females alone, and following the launch of the designer’s first standalone menswear stores in Paris and New York, Christian Louboutin has announced that he will be doing the same thing in London. Located at 35 Dover Street, a stone’s throw away from its women’s boutique on Mount Street, the 1,290 square foot store will house the widest selection of footwear and bags available in the UK. It’s been a good few months for the brand; earlier this year it launched a design retrospective at London’s Design Museum and in May confirmed it will be expanding into a beauty line. The Dover Street store is set to open in November – just in time for Christmas.
www.st-dupont.com
www.christianlouboutin.com
TEMPERLEYLONDON.COM
fashion
concierge
women’s fashion
news
MOST WANTED Tailored wool coats with bow detail belts, traditional quilted riding jackets and army-inspired bombers ruled the Burberry catwalk, adorned with fur, tweeds, velvets and silk. Undeniably, it’s all about making an entrance this season – and who else creates quintessentially British cover ups quite like Burberry? The London collection also features gorgeous trenches in royal hues with leather trimming, bouclé wool evening coats, sable shearling toggle jackets and warm woollen capes, with some of the men’s selections ideal for working the oversized ‘borrowed from my boyfriend’ trend. While we’re not wishing away the late summer sunshine, a cold snap never looked so good.
TREND: top form Reiss has pulled out all the stops this season with its beautiful office-to-party pieces. Pair feminine long skirts and elegant shifts with a leather biker jacket and tousled locks. from left: Adi dress, £189, Henrietta t shirt, £55 Isabella skirt, £125, 26-27 LEADENHALL MARKET
Post Summer blues Amid decadent brocades, lots of leather and elegant furs we spotted a seasonal micro-trend for blue-hued handbags, ideal for the typical Indian summer from September through October when you just don’t know what to wear. from top: bottega veneta, £2,655 www.bottegaveneta.com miu miu, £795, www.miumiu.com 3.1 phillip lim, £810 www.matchesfashion.com diane von furstenberg, £417 www.dvf.com yves saint laurent, £1,485 www.net-a-porter.com
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concierge fashion Three of the Best...
BLAZERS
women’s fashion
news these boots aren’t made for walking
For in between weather days when getting dressed feels like a game of Russian roulette
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3
The sun may have only just come out to play but what woman can resist the allure of the winter boot?
tiger of sweden, £319.95 WWW.NELLY.COM
1. Yves Saint Laurent, £1,260
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www.matchesfashion.com
4
2. Alexander McQueen, £695 www.net-a-porter.com 3. Burberry Prorsum, £595 www.burberry.com 4. Alexander McQueen, £825 www.alexandermcqueen.co.uk 5. Yves Saint Laurent, £810 www.ysl.co.uk 6. Reiss, £195, 26-27 LEADENHALL
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MARKET, EC3V 1LR
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7. Miu Miu, £550 www.miumiu.com
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QUOTE OF THE MONTH
I don’t know who invented the high heel, but all men owe him a lot Marilyn Monroe
newsflash: vault couture From cataloguing to storing, styling to repairs, Vault Couture is the answer to your over-stuffed wardrobe. Cataloguing your closet onto its database – which you can access 24 hours a day through a private iPad app, Vault Couture will send round a white overall-clad team to sort your Lanvin from your Louboutin. With a storage set up on a par with that of the V&A, vaults are temperature and humidity controlled, keeping your furs and silks separate, of course. There’s even a ‘Match my Garment’ styling app. Eat your heart out Alicia Silverstone. www.vaultcouture.com
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stella mccartney, £1,195 www.stellamccartney.com
iro, £785 www.matchesfashion.com
legends of the
fall Photographer:
Anthony Edwin Fashion Editor:
Lucie Dodds
opulence Black tulle draped body with embroidery ÂŁ2,250 at Gucci, 9 Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LL www.gucci.com
leather Black boots, POA at Gina Couture www.gina.com Black leather coat, POA Alberta Ferretti, 73-74 Sloane Street SW1 www.albertaferretti.com
bordeaux Evelyn pleated bandage dress, ÂŁ3,200 at Herve Leger, 020 7201 2590 Black boots, as before
chunky knits
Courtney Halterneck Dress, £810 wool jacket, £945 at Mark Fast Browns Focus, 39 South Molton Street 020 7514 0063
XXXXXX
BRITISH HERITAGE Black and cream Glenplaid duchess jacket, £1,950, matching skirt, £750, braided equestrian glove, £380, Leather clutch, £3,005 Pamelia court shoe, £595 at Ralph Lauren 020 7535 4600, www.ralphlauren.com
Hair & Make-Up: Paula Mann at HMS Creative using Paul Mitchell and Clinique
SEPTEMBER 2012 CW 81
THE MASTER JEWELLER
CAPTuRInG THE CuRREnT PATRIOTIC MOOD, JEWELLERY DESIGnER THEO FEnnELL DESCRIBES THE PLEASuRE HE TAkES FROM BEInG PART OF A TRADITIOn OF BRITISH CREATIvITY AnD CRAFTSMAnSHIP “My first job was at the great silversmiths Edward Barnard, not long after leaving art school. I found myself in Hatton Garden, the heart of the jewellery trade, and immediately fell in love with the whole process of designing and making silver and jewellery. Almost everything I do or see inspires me. I think for anyone who does anything inventive or creative, what they create is the sum of all that they know, do and have seen: the people, the places, the books, the jokes, their education. My tastes and enjoyments are very eclectic and my family is my biggest influence. In addition, I work with some incredibly talented and skilful people who act as great catalysts. I think if you have an original and inventive frame of mind and are surrounded by people who understand this ethos, then new ideas and directions (not to mention the revisiting
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CITY MAG September.indd 1-2
of a few classics) come easily. Without the bullying of fashion, we can make jewellery that is timeless, sentimental and worth possessing. These pieces, I hope, will always amuse, delight and be sought-after. A passion for high-quality craftsmanship is at the heart of Theo Fennell jewellery and our
“I think jewellery should be designed with heart and soul” workshop has extraordinarily high standards. In terms of style, a lot of what we do is either overtly romantic or classic and simple. Having said that, I do love to mix gritty subject matter with romantic styles and I enjoy the quirky outcome. I see no reason why jewellery cannot have some serious WWW.theroyalexchange.com
intent. I do believe, though, that whatever the point of the piece it should resonate and be beautifully made. I think jewellery should be designed with heart and soul, made with great care and skill and should last for generations, bringing pleasure for hundreds of years. I believe customers also want to be more engaged in the process of pieces being made and to genuinely feel a piece’s story, so that it becomes their own and not just a fashion or wealth statement. In this country we have a great tradition of people being creative; making stories, pictures, plays, songs, furniture, buildings, gardens and jewels. Indeed, we do all sorts of things so strangely but really well, with great humour, irony and, sometimes, modesty. I love the attention to detail of British craftsmanship and hope I am part of its rich heritage.”
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SIX OF THE BEST
London calling ↑
Summer scent ↑
Gold rush ↑
Gucci’s creative director Frida Giannini celebrates London with her exclusive City Collection. The sport-inspired designs combine function and fashion in a collection created for the stylish but active cosmopolitan. Accessories include a colourful selection of bags, trainers, sunglasses, and a watch. This bright iPad case features Tower Bridge, screenprinted on white canvas. A Gucci logo leather ID tag and multi-coloured leather trim contribute to the urban, sporty aesthetic. City Collection iPad cover, £225
‘Lime Basil & Mandarin’ is Jo Malone London’s most evocative scent. The perfumer’s signature fragrance combines citrus top notes with peppery basil and aromatic white thyme. It evokes the fresh scent of limes on a Caribbean breeze, and contrasting spice gives the fragrance an unexpected depth. A fresh, modern classic, it’s the perfect scent for late summer – and it can also be spritzed and layered with Grapefruit cologne to create a bespoke fragrance. Lime Basil & Mandarin Cologne, 100ml, £76
These exquisite gold and diamond drop earrings from fine jeweller Boodles celebrate 2012 as the Year of the Dragon, the most empowering in the Chinese zodiac. The earrings feature 3.68 carat of yellow and 3.46 carat of white round-brilliant-cut diamonds and are part of the exotic Wonderland Collection, taking inspiration from the diverse textures, colours and patterns of the Silk Route connecting Asia, Europe and Africa, into beautiful designs. Emperor Earrings, price on application
Look sharp ↑
Slice of heaven ↑
Bags of style ↑
Classic style never goes out of fashion and this pair of Paul Smith leather lace-ups is a wardrobe essential for any time of year. The classic Oxford style features five eyelets and a definitive toecap and is perfect for business and formal occasions. Paul Smith’s Granada shoes are made from the smoothest black leather with playful details: typographyembossed soles and subtle multi-coloured stripes on the tip of the heel and tongue. Paul Smith Granada men’s shoes, £167
For a truly indulgent treat, head to chocolatier Paul.A.Young and try his new Billionaire’s Shortbread, packed with sea-salted caramel and rich dark chocolate. The master chocolatier – renowned for developing original flavour combinations – has won numerous awards and his creativity places him at the leading edge of international chocolate. Young and his team produce all their creations by hand in the kitchen of each shop, using the best fresh ingredients. Billionaire’s Shortbread, £3.95
Loewe’s Amazona bag, crafted from butter-soft polished goatskin, is now available in a gorgeous combination of summery lilac, purple and bright pink. The Amazona was launched by the Spanish luxury leather goods company in 1975 and was the first flexible handbag in unlined suede. To make this beautiful unlined bag possible, every stitch inside and out must be perfect – a testament to Loewe’s craftsmanship, attention to detail and groundbreaking technology. Tricolor Amazona handbag, £1,495
agent provocateur, artisan fine art, bachet, boodles, bulgari, church’s, crockett & jones, de beers, grand cafe, gucci, harrys of london, hermÈs, imperial city, jo malone, kiehl’s since 1851, kojis, loeWe, l’occitane, loro piana, lulu guinness, mezzanine lounge, molton broWn, montblanc, omega, paul.a.young fine chocolates, paul smith, pavarottis, penhaligon’s, pretty ballerinas, royal exchange jeWellers, sage broWn fine leather, sauterelle, searle & co, smoker’s paradise, smythson, tateossian, theo fennell, tiffany & co., vilebrequin, Watches of sWitzerland
the royal exchange, bank, city of london, ec3v 3lr. store trading hours 10am – 6pm restaurants & bars 8am – 11pm
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Straight from
T
Rajdeep Sandhu discovers a Mad Men inspired design revolution at BoConcept
hink Donald Draper: a malt whisky in one hand as he crosses his legs casually on his olive green couch, oozing cool and sophistication. Taking a step back in time for inspiration this season, BoConcept, pioneers in the field of interior design, are setting trends left, right and centre: sofas are comfortable yet elegant, colours are deep and mature and the German Bauhaus style pieces, with their graphic lines and signal colours, are casual, optimistic and playful, using a mix of prints and patterns. BoConcept has been creating urban Danish designs since 1952: through three generations, the company has flourished, and this year will be celebrating its 60th birthday. To celebrate its anniversary, the new 2013 collection is looking back to the 50s and 60s with the American Mad Men TV series as the perfect reference. In this new collection BoConcept translates the trends of the time, while taking inspiration from the past for 2013: The Ogi chair, designed by Anders Nørgaard, combines beauty with function and was inspired by the shape of an oyster. Marble is also making a comeback as one of the hottest materials in interior decoration. BoConcept has created its own piece in the form of a beautiful coffee table; made from Portuguese marble, the grey, white and beige tones giving each table a unique look. Nørgaard’s belief in simplicity and functionality are key considerations when creating new pieces. But the collection isn’t all minimalist design. The Bergen sofa is voluptuous with a casual laid back look; letting you sink in and relax. Its detailed stitching, luxurious leather and adjustable cushions can be customised for each room. Whether you are in to the classic look or you’re feeling
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adventurous with bright colours and humorous sculptures – you will be sure to get inspired. BoConcept’s 60 years of success lies in its long-standing commitment to delivering high quality design and craftsmanship, combined with functionality and simplicity, to its urban-minded customers. While the company, founded by Jens Ærthøj Jensen and Tage Mølholm, remains true to its heritage and tradition, it continues to develop and produce innovative designs and inspiring ideas to suit the needs of those with a busy modern lifestyle. With more than 250 brand stores and 90 studios in over 50 countries, BoConcept offers every essential for the home – from the living room, to the bedroom and dining room. As an extra celebratory treat this summer, after more than a decade on Tottenham Court Road, the 600m² flagship show room received a complete facelift. As part of London Design Festival, they will host a weekend party of special launch promotions, refreshments and much more. Held between 22-23 September, the soirée will also be Mad Man themed, boasting a DJ, Danish delicacies and bubbly. Two exciting promotional offers will be available from 1 September to 28 October. BoConcept will offer a 20 per cent discount on the new Fargo sofa in felt, created by award-winning designer Anders Nørgaard. Customers who purchase in store during that period will receive 10 per cent of the order value back, to be spent in the same store throughout November and December. n 158 Tottenham Court Road, W1T 7NH www.boconcept.co.uk
Northampton • England
Makers of the finest English shoes since 1879
U.K. 25 Royal Exchange, London EC3 New Shop - 92 Jermyn Street, London SW1 69 Jermyn Street, London SW1 20-21 Burlington Arcade, London W1 25 Colmore Row, Birmingham B3
FRANCE 14, Rue Chauveau-Lagarde, La Madeleine, 75008 Paris U.S.A. 7 West 56th Street, New York, NY 10019 www.crockettandjones.com
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Duravit brings the bathroom to life.
Sanitaryware, bathroom furniture, bathtubs, shower trays, wellness products and accessories: Duravit has everything you need to make life in the bathroom a little more beautiful. More info at Duravit UK, Milton Keynes, Phone 0845 500 7787, Fax 0845 500 7786, info@uk.duravit.com, www.duravit.co.uk
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vienna sushi samba .............................................................................madrid
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WHEN IN ROME
W Kari Rosenberg enjoys Pop Art in Ancient Rome with the Rome Cavalieri Waldorf Astoria’s new Andy Warhol experience
ith an art collection large enough to challenge most galleries, the Rome Cavalieri Waldorf Astoria is known for its exquisite assortment of old master paintings, French furniture dating back to Louis XV and the First Empire, rare tapestries, sculptures, clocks, bronzes and the many other precious artefacts that festoon its corridors. But for those seeking a more modern art experience, the hotel has created the Warhol Package where guests stay in the penthouse suite.
While the palatial bedroom is adorned with original Andy Warhol dollar sign silk screens, it is also home to a magnificent Karl Lagerfeld sofa, originally created for the designer’s Paris home. Should guests muster the will or energy to leave their decadent suite, they can relish a relaxing art inspired tipple created especially to celebrate the Warhol; take a sip on ‘The Andy’ cocktail and enjoy Berlucchi Brut Imperiale, Midori and fresh melon and lemon juice. n www.romecavalieri.com
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With 133 bedrooms giving panoramic views of the city, state-of-the-art meeting rooms and just minutes away from Bank, Tower Bridge, and Canary Wharf stations and just 14 minutes away from London City Airport, we are perfectly located for both business and leisure.
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Holiday Inn London – Commercial Road NOW OPEN
Whitechapel
Martha Street
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To book or for further enquiries please email
info.hicommercialroad@ihg.com or call Central Reservations on
0800 40 50 60 hilondoncommercialroadhotel.co.uk
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Closer to Home Holiday Inn London, Commercial Road opens its doors in the heart of London’s East End this month, which is great news for both local and travelling business guests. With 133 contemporary, air conditioned bedrooms over six floors, enjoy the City in both style and comfort. Every day, its Traders Restaurant offers a buffet at breakfast and an à la carte menu for lunch and dinner while Traders Lounge Bar provides a great place to meet and greet. For a limited period only, guests that book using the code LONUK-002 will receive 20 per cent off any food and beverage order at the hotel. www.hilondoncommercialroadhotel.co.uk
0800 40 50 60
Expect the Unexpected A stint in Ibiza is a rite of passage for any adult wanting a heady mix of sunshine, eating, drinking and dancing. And if you intend to retire at dawn, stay at the uber-luxe Ushuaïa. A menagerie of giant animals almost outnumbers guests; a golden crocodile languishes by the pool, pink warthogs and neon komodo dragons relax on the grass, ants crawl in arcs across white walls, striped purple cats tower 12 feet above the ground and a frog statue with a crown holds court in the centre of the pool.
Prepare for every moment of your holiday to be sound tracked by a DJ of the moment – Swedish House Mafia on Wednesdays, Luciano on Thursdays, David Guetta or age-old favourite Pete Tong (also at Pacha on Fridays). The Pooldisco residency, running until 22 September every Saturday, brings an East London style of DJs, hosts and performers to Ushuaia, four years since the Shoreditch House Pooldisco event launched. www.ushuaiaibizabeach.com
A Unique Find Hotel Unique’s exterior has been likened to a ‘half penny on stilts’, created by Brazilian designer Ruy Ohtake. The impressive lobby boasts a 60 foot vertical bar known as The Wall with a full selection of tipples while colour coded dream rooms provide romantically decorated interiors, massages and extra surprises for couples. In all of the rooms, guests are greeted by complimentary Havaianas and Bulgari amenities. Get up to the hotel rooftop where the Skye restaurant and bar are located, with the São Paulo skyline shimmering in the distance and the Ibirapuera Park down below.
turkish jewel This beautifully restored Ottoman mansion overlooks the shores of the Bosphorus, the body of water which separates Europe and Asia. The A’Jia Hotel, Istanbul, is reminiscent of a New England estate, comprising 16 rooms in an 1870s pavilion setting; each uniquely decorated using white marble and modern finishing, contrasting with the centuries-old architecture. www.ajiahotel.com
www.hotelunique.com
Brought to you in association with Small Luxury Hotels of the World, an unsurpassable collection of more than 500 hotels spanning 70 countries, which offer an infinite variety of experiences
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Jorg Hackemann / Shutterstock.com
Vienna waits
for you Gabriel O’Rorke visits Austria’s largest city, a cultural nexus where music, chocolate cake and dreams are made
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ith thoughts of arriving in Vienna in time for a breakfast of strudel and hot chocolate, we opted for a 6am flight out of London. Such decisions always seem like a good idea in the planning, and the reality is seldom pain free; but our yawns soon faded as we arrived in a city bathed in morning sunshine and checked in to the Sacher Hotel. The Austrian capital is brimming with iconic buildings; from the opera house, to the museums, the parliament and palaces. Then there’s the Sacher Hotel, which is a Viennese institute in its own right. Dating back to 1876, it sits alongside the opera house and is an old-time meeting place for politicians, actors and high society. Today its guest book includes the Queen, JFK and Grace Kelly. The initial reason for this hotel’s fame, however, comes down to a chocolate cake. In 1832, Prince Klemens von Metternich asked his kitchen staff to come up with a new pudding. The head chef happened to be busy, so the task fell upon a young apprentice, Franz Sacher. Sacher invented a chocolate torte made in 34 steps, with a layer of apricot jam in the middle and chocolate icing on the outside. Not only did it go down well with the Austrian nobility, but today the cake lives on, and 360,000 Sacher Tortes are sold around the world each year. So, if anyone is wondering what
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came first – the hotel or the chocolate cake – the answer is firmly the latter. It was not until 1976 that Franz’s son Eduard opened the Sacher hotel. The hotel became most famous, however, when Eduard died and his wife Anna took the helm. “Everyone came here for her,” says manager Ursula Wagner, “she wore trousers, smoked a cigar, had a bellowing voice and owned between 70 and 100 dogs. This was a time when women did not generally run things, but people loved her.” Today a large portrait of Anna hangs on the wall between the blue bar and the signature restaurant. Whether or not you’re staying at the hotel, a visit to Vienna isn’t complete without a slice of the “world’s most famous cake”. Deciding to make the most of the full day ahead of us, we headed out into the sunny streets. One hundred years ago Vienna was the world’s fifth largest city; it was a cultural melting point with nobility, intellectuals and a hotchpotch of artists, musicians, writers, architects, poets and actors who congregated in the city’s famous coffee houses. Among the roll call of famous names were the psychologist Sigmund Freud, the architect Josef Hoffman and the painter Gustav Klimt. And this year Klimt is in the spotlight as it’s the 150-year anniversary of his birth (he lived from 1862-1918). After all, Vienna’s most famous artist is quoted as saying: “If anyone wants to know something about me, they should
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look at my pictures carefully and try to recognise from them what I am and what I want.” Credited for revolutionising the Viennese art scene at the turn of the twentieth century, there are currently ten galleries displaying 800 Klimt artworks – more than has ever been in one city before. His most iconic piece, The Kiss, is on display at The Belvedere Palace. Placed in the middle of a room mounted on a red stand, the painting’s gold leaf omits a luminescent glow. I was surprised to find that it is square rather than rectangular (like I had previously seen it on a postcard), and the influence of Japanese art is notable. Heading back into the centre, our next stop on the Klimt trail was the Kunsthistorisches Museum, where one of his early works takes the form of a mural on the wall above the main staircase. A new walkway has been constructed so visitors can get a closer look. This time there is a clear Egyptian influence. Having built up an appetite, we decide it’s about time for some schnitzel. One of the city’s best offerings on this front is the somewhat unpronounceable Plachuttas Gasthaus bei der Oper. Enormous plates of schnitzel were brought our way with impressive speed, accompanied with the traditional side plate of potato salad. The next morning, full of Sacher’s Sunday brunch, we made the short walk to the Spanish Riding School to see the morning exercise. Visiting the world’s oldest riding school and watching the famous Lipizzaner stallions is something I have wanted to do since I was a child, and we were lucky to coincide with the first performance of the year. To the sounds of Schubert, Mozart and Chopin, we watched the horses move with incredible ballerina-like fluidity. First came the young stallions, full of beans and excited to be performing; next it was the old-timers, experienced horses and riders, showing off their pirouettes and pas de deux; but my favourite were the “above the ground movements” which included rearing up and kicking out, moves that date back 400 years to the days of cavalry battles. Hopping on the tram again, we pass the parliament
buildings and get off at the city’s ice skating rink. Back at the hotel, we head to the spa for a bit of R&R. Continuing with the chocolate theme, the Sacher has a signature Time to Chocolate range, I booked a chocolate massage to soothe my bruised muscles (and ego). Surrounded by the sweet smell of cocoa, I sank into a state of semi-consciousness, savouring every minute of the body scrub and massage. For our final night we dined at the opulent Anna Sacher restaurant where the walls are covered in green velvet, portraits by Anton Faistauer hang splendidly, and Lobmeyr crystal chandeliers trickle down from the ceiling. Throughout the 148-room hotel there are more than 1,000 original paintings, making it one of Austria’s biggest private collections. Having ordered squid ink and scallop soup followed by two types of beef with mushrooms, the waiter brought over bread and kindly intervened when we started eating cubes of butter like canapés. To be fair, they was presented on a piece of slate and consisted of six cubes of different flavoured butter. Still, apparently butter is recommended taken with bread. n
“To the sounds of Schubert, Mozart and Chopin, we watched the horses move with incredible ballerina-like fluidity”
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MORE INFORMATION British Midland International (bmi) offers up to five flights a day between London Heathrow and Vienna. Economy fares start at £99 return, including taxes and charges, www.flybmi.com The CAT (City Airport Train) is €16 return, a Vienna Card is €18.50 The Spanish Riding School morning exercise is €14 pp and €26 with a tour of the stables. Scheduled performances range from €25 to €130 and must be booked in advance, www.srs.at/en For more information visit www.vienna.info
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Photography (images far left and second from right): Jules Kosciuczyk
Annabel Harrison visits Sorrento in Italy to walk the Path of the Gods and, in doing so, is enchanted by the region’s beautiful lemon and orange groves, its charming residents and the postcard-perfect peninsula of the Amalfi Coast
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ccording to Roman poets Virgil and Ovid, the Sirenum scopuli were three small, rocky islands where the Sirens of Greek mythology lived. These same rocky islands can be seen today, thousands of years later, steeped in seawater and history, from the Path of the Gods, a walking track between the towns of Agerola, Praiano and Positano, at an average height of 500 metres above sea level and so named because it recalls the mythological landscapes of Olympus. According to the Amalfi Coast’s website, “no other name could describe better the amazing view offered from this mountain trail. From this trekking path, situated halfway up Mount Sant’Angelo a Tre Pizzi, it is possible to admire one of the most striking panoramas in the world: an incomparable overview from the Cilento province to the island of Capri.” Indeed. A few words of advice, though: wear sensible shoes and suncream, take enough water, carry as little as possible and don’t be perturbed by the goats occasionally blocking the often very narrow path. Do, if you’re fit and healthy, take the 1,700 steps down to Positano for close-up views of the colourful little town, the next village from Sorrento and home to 4,000 residents. An astounding 10-12,000 visitors a day descend in high season so if you’re not fond of crowds or the midsummer Mediterranean sun, visit in October. Positano has a beautiful old church and cobbled walkways roofed with vines and flowers, lined with plenty of little boutiques selling Limoncello, crockery painted with lemons and lemon-shaped soaps, as well as the prettiest girls’ dresses. Le Tre Sorelle restaurant down by the sea is great for a pizza pitstop; our waiter wins us over with the unexpected addition of heart-shaped bruschetta. I must point out that in visiting and describing Sorrento, one cannot fail to avoid repetitions of the words ‘lemon’ and ‘orange’ as these, the region’s most famous and iconic products, infiltrate everything from food and drink to spa treatments, cultural excursions and interior décor. The fruits immediately make their presence felt: after an easy flight and an easy drive from Naples airport, our car trundles through the bustle of the main Sorrento square, under a wrought-iron, wisteria-bedecked entrance gate and down a verdant, floral driveway flanked by (you’ve guessed it) orange and lemon trees. The gate is embellished with the swirling golden words Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria and the hotel grounds seem to be imbued with an age-old tranquillity. This is not a hotel for those wanting a modern, high-tech experience; it is old-school idyllic and old-school Italian, through and through. If the hotel was to be embodied in a person, resident manager Nicolino Grigio is Mr Vittoria himself. He entertains us with stories and laughter as we eat lunch by the pool at the Orangerie Restaurant, surrounded by (yes, more of them and just as pretty) lemon and orange trees – to our delight, we spot one which is sprouting lemons and oranges, as if sprung from Roald Dahl’s imagination. In fact, kids seem well-catered for; some splash happily in the children’s pool and we can hear others on the basketball court as Nicolino tells us about pizza cooking classes, the sand pit and snorkelling on offer. Our first lunch is indicative of the decadent dining to come: wonderful white wine, crisp, freshly baked bruchetta, bread
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best enjoyed dipped into lemon olive oil and salt, pizza laden with mozzarella, juicy tomatoes and Parma ham and cheesestuffed, sauce-soaked ravioli. Everything is delicious, although definitely not for those on a diet; Nicolino cheerfully tells us he has gained 16 kilograms in his six years in Sorrento. In keeping with the authentic yet quirky charm of the area, the hotel’s 97 rooms and suites are spread across an unusual trio of buildings; two are recognisably Italian, La Vittoria to the west (built in 1834) and La Rivali to the east (1882) but the odd one out is La Favourita, sandwiched between the other two, because it takes the form of a Swiss chalet. From the coast, it appears the oddest arrangement but on land it seems to work just fine. Visitors to the hotel have included many members of royal families as well as Pavarotti, Barbra Streisand and Sophie Loren. From most rooms, one can see Naples, Capri and Mount Vesuvius across the bay, magnificent and colossal. Cocktails on the Bosquet Terrace before supper allow us a peaceful panoramic view and we revisit a fondness for Aperol Spritz cocktails as the sun sets and live piano music filters outside. Supper is seafood-centric, as befits a coastal resort, taken in the Bosquet Restaurant, simpler in terms of its décor than the rest of the hotel and a little too sedate for my liking. Spaghetti alle vongole begins the meal, followed by fresh baked red sea-bream in lemon sauce. Although pudding is good, the savoury options win hands-down. Our final morning is filled with oranges and lemons aplenty. First we visit the locally renowned and family-owned Villa Massa Limoncello farm, which produces an incredible one million litres of the liquor each year, using a family recipe 122 years old. The region is famous for its Limoncello and the cooperative Solagri was founded in 1994 by the splendidly named and utterly charming Mariano Valentino Vinaccia in order to “save from extinction the ‘Lemon Oval of Sorrento’, to enhance the uniqueness and to ramp up production”. The second and final stop is the Il Pizzo Orange and Lemon Grove, used last summer as a set for Pierce Brosnan film, The Bald Hairdresser, and incidentally, Mr Brosnan himself frequented the Excelsior Vittoria during his stay. Fringed with an expansive view over the Gulf of Naples, well-trodden walkways meander through the groves, lemons, oranges and olives growing in tiers above, and pools of water at the base of the trees. An almost impossibly lovely citrus fragrance surrounds me and the air is close and cool. This is where I truly feel like I am in the land of the gods. n
Lemons and oranges, the region’s most famous products, infiltrate everything from food and drink to spa treatments, excursions and décor
MORE INFORMATION Classic Collection Holidays (0800 294 9318) offers three nights at Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria, Sorrento, from £936 per person this September. This price is based on two people sharing a classic garden view room on a bed & breakfast basis and includes return flights from London Gatwick (other UK departure airports available) and private transfers. For more information about the area please visit www.sorrentotourism.com and www.enjoypositano.com
From top, then left to right: Vittoria Terrace at night, Pizza, Scala Rivale, Citrus Trees, Colazione In Terrazza Camera
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Destination...
Madrid Rajdeep Sandhu explores Madrid on two wheels, visiting art galleries, flamenco shows and dining on local specialities Where to stay…... Hospes Madrid Located in the district of Salamanca, this boutique hotel, based in the Plaza de la Independencia, is a beautiful original townhouse dating from the 19th century. With its restored classic features, the stylish décor is lavished with original dark wood throughout, the meeting and communal areas decked out with dark leather chesterfields and plush velvet benches. A room facing the spectacular Puerta de Alcala is a must, boasting a breath-taking backdrop of the Retiro Park, just a few minutes’ stroll away. Complete your stay by visiting the Senzone restaurant and the Bodyna spa: the white marble and high ceilings create a tranquil sanctuary from the lively city outside, safely enclosed behind a red brick exterior and grand wooden door. www.hospes.com
Where to eat…... Casa Lucio Frequented by the King of Spain and celebrities alike, this small eatery can be found in Old Madrid. The family-owned restaurant serves traditional Castilian food including mouth-watering thick steaks, suckling pig and varieties of roasted lamb. Away from the hanging jamons lining the bar, it is best known for one of its simpler dishes, ‘Heuvos Estrellado’, a hearty meal of eggs and potatoes, which although sounds simple, is possibly one of the best combinations on earth. After enjoying real food in a traditional tasca complete with original 19th century wooden beams, you’ll leave feeling part of the family. www.casalucio.es
What to do... Golden Triangle of Art An extensive art scene means culture vultures will be spoilt for choice. Start off with the ‘big three’ which form the Golden Triangle of Art. The Museo del Prado exhibits European art from the 12th century while the Museo Reina Sofía has 20th century contemporary Spanish artists including pieces from Pablo Picasso and Salvador Dali. End with the private collection at Museo ThyssenBornemisza, filling in the historical gaps between the first two. Trailing off the well-trodden tourist art scene you’ll find Salvador Diaz which includes contemporary photography exhibitions or the outdoor Museo de la Escultura Abstracta which hosts sculptures of bronze, steels and mirror, created by modern Spanish artists.
Don’t miss…... Flamenco In such a rich City as Madrid it’s hard to fit everything in, but flamenco and shopping are not to be missed – wander down Calle Serrano and Calle Goya for luxury retail therapy. Madrid is also home to some of the most impressive flamenco shows in the country, with Casa Patas one of the best. Choose from a selection of 50 Spanish wines while you wait for the show, which usually commences around late evening. The best way to see the vibrancy of Madrid is on two wheels, so take advantage of Hospes Hotel’s bike rental. n
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From top to bottom: Museo del Prado, Salvador Dali museum, Hospes Madrid bedroom and exterior, flamenco dancer
British Airways flies from London City Airport to Madrid twice daily. All flights include a generous free baggage allowance, complimentary onboard drinks and snacks and your choice of seating. To book now, visit www.ba.com
i
Aberdeen from London City Airport. Up to 3 times a day. With flights to Aberdeen, Edinburgh and Glasgow, we connect Scotland’s 3 main business hubs with one of London’s. Book at ba.com/ londoncity
With a check-in time of just 15 minutes*, taking the high road to Scotland really will get you there sooner. To Fly. To Serve.
*15 minute check-in for hand baggage only, 20 minute check-in for baggage in the hold. Aberdeen flights start 24th September 2012. Service operated by BA CityFlyer.
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Our recommendations...
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SEPTEMBER TIPPLES...
TOP OF THE RANGE
Caorunn Gin
For the largest waterside dining and drinking space in east London – located within Pan Peninsula, the UK’s tallest residential building – head to Tompkins and enjoy refreshing chilled gazpacho, warm salt beef sandwiches, crunchy endive salads and sticky short ribs indoors or alfresco, while sipping the house speciality cocktail, Tompkins Royale.
Once Scotland’s best kept secret, this premium spirit is causing a stir in London amongst gin aficionados. Having partnered with the likes of Liberty London, Spencer House, The V&A and Chelsea Harbour Design Centre, even the handcrafted bottle gives a nod to elegance with its design taking inspiration from the Scottish Art Nouveau movement.
4 PAN PENINSULA SQUARE, E14 9HN 020 8305 3080
Perrier Jouet Perrier-Jouët has launched a limited edition Belle Epoque Champagne, marking the first redesign of the bottle since 1902. Available for a limited time only from Harvey Nichols, priced at around £230, it’s been created by renowned floral Japanese artist Makoto Azuma. This Belle Epoque Florale Edition is inspired by his country’s art and culture.
Bowmore Whisky
MACAROON MADNESS Salted butter caramel, white chocolate and orange marmalade, lime and fresh ginger butter cream or coffee cream with a hazelnut crunch – whatever your preferred flavour of bite-sized macaroon, learn to make them, as we did, at top cooking school L’atelier des Chefs. Super pastry chef Satti, who has trained all
over the world, will answer your questions, while keeping you entertained with tales of his travels. For expert one to one tuition or a great activity to be enjoyed with friends and family (including a box full of goodies to take home), this cooking school really takes the biscuit. 10 FOSTER LANE, EC2V 6HR, 020 7796 0110
Bowmore, Islay’s first Single Malt distillery, has released a rare limited edition whisky, the Bowmore 1964. One sip reveals lusciously ripe peaches, juicy blood oranges and sharp pink grapefruit. Next comes deep wood-like notes, with coconut creams and a hint of sweetness. Priced at £8,000, and with only 72 bottles in existence globally, this is the ultimate collectible for the whisky connoisseur and enthusiast. Cheers.
food & drink
connoisseur
of the best...
corporate christmas party ideas
BEST FOOT FORWARD: ICE RINK CANARY WHARF Canada Square Park will be transformed this November into an enchanted wintertime playground with a twist. Bigger and better than previous years, it promises to be an ice skater’s paradise, with an 800 square metre ice rink featuring London’s first ever skate path. Glide around the rink while enjoying the best in seasonal entertainment or savour from the sidelines with a glass of champagne or warming mulled wine on the viewing terrace. The unique skate path enables skaters to leave the main rink and pirouette their way under sparkling trees around the perimeter of Canada Square Park. Having excelled on the ice, retire to the luxurious rink side bar and lounge to celebrate in style. Skating packages at the rink can be tailored for business and corporate
parties with options from three course meals, lunch or canapés. If the skating wasn’t entertainment enough, added extras include comedians, cocktail making, and cheese and wine tasting. Companies are free to choose their own bespoke themes – opt for a mad hatters party, masquerade ball or even Hollywood glamour. Top it all off with a DJ and dance floor to complete a Christmas party everyone will be talking about for years. Ice Rink Canary Wharf launches on 3 November. PARTY BOOKING ARE BEING TAKEN AT: EVENTS@ICERINKCANARYWHARF.CO.UK WWW.SKATECANARYWHARF.COM, 020 7536 8400 TICKETS AT WWW.TICKETMASTER.CO.UK, 0844 4847 1556
INDULGE AT MADISON
VIVA LAS BOISDALE
Nestled in the heart of St Paul’s, Madison Restaurant boasts spectacular views of the City. This year, Madison is offering Christmas canapés including mini mince pies, pigs in blankets and the all favourite Christmas turnovers. If you’d prefer an indulgent three course meal, Madison has two set menus on offer from 1 December. For a twist on the traditional, try the crème brûlée Christmas pudding. For a top of the range feast, choose monkfish wellington and the dry aged Bucceleuch Estate fillet.
If you are spending Christmas in the UK but long for the glamour of Caesars Palace, let Boisdale of Canary Wharf bring Vegas to you. Pete Long’s nine-piece Big Band and the ultimate Rat Pack singers Iain Mackenzie and Steve Pert will be joined by Geoff Haves to bring you the very best of classic Vegas from Frank, Dean and Sammy to Louis Prima, Tom Jones, and Elvis. Boisdale of Canary Wharf has also made the shortlist at this year’s London Lifestyle Awards, having been nominated for The London Live Music Venue of the Year and The London Bar of the Year. WWW.BOISDALE.CO.UK
WWW.MADISONLONDON.NET
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Mayfair
the heart of
c o c kta i l b a r | lo u n g e | r e s ta u r a n t | c h e f ’ s d i n i n g r o o m | a r t g a l l e r y | l a c a v e 1 0 l a n c a s h i r e c o u r t n e w b o n d s t r e e t lo n d o n w 1 s 1 e y + 4 4 ( 0 ) 2 0 7 5 1 8 9 3 8 8 w w w. m e w s o f m ay fa i r . c o m
food & drink
connoisseur
samba SOUTH
east-side feast
The highest restaurant this side of Bangkok, SushiSamba exceeds Richard Brown’s expectations
Kari Rosenberg heads to Village East, along with the rest of London’s foodies
S
O
ushiSamba has generated quite a buzz since opening last month, with two words dominating conversations more than most: the views. Located on the 38th and 39th floors of the City’s largest skyscraper, it’s not hard to see why. Vertigo sufferers beware; the aerial adventure begins the moment you step into the restaurant’s external glass lift. Zipping visitors from ground level to the top of the Heron Tower in a matter of seconds, the journey up there’s an attraction in its own right. At the top, SushiSamba’s two outdoor terraces treat visitors to a panoramic prospect that stretches from Canary Wharf’s towers in the east to the chimneys of Battersea Power Station in the west. Visit at twilight as we did, and you get to watch London transform from a glittering grey and silver toy town to a teeming expanse of twinkling lights. There’s something very Manhattan Island about the experience. Yet to wax lyrical about SushiSamba’s sky-high whereabouts over its culinary offerings would be to do the restaurant’s chefs a disservice. This is, after all, a restaurant, and one that takes itself seriously. The kitchen, headed up by executive chef Jeffrey Kipp (previously of Gordon Ramsay’s Royal Hospital Road) provides a menu archetypal of the SushiSamba brand, inviting guests to explore a combination of three cross-country cuisines: Brazilian, Peruvian and Japanese. For us, highlights included the suitably extravagant green bean tempura with black truffle aioli, and the delicious wagyu gyoza, served with a su-shoyu dipping sauce that we wished we could have kept for the rest of our meal. For something a little more filling, opt for the restaurant’s samba rolls, and in particular its ‘London’ selection – an ever changing, but ever tasty, assortment of crab, tuna, salmon, yellowtail, prawn and scallop rolls. Disappointingly we were unable to try either the black cod nor the kuromitsu glazed pork belly, both of which had sold out before sun set. Sake lovers will also be pleased to know that the restaurant offers one of the largest premium selections of the tipple in the world. Visit SushiSamba and expect to spend upwards of £60 a head. And yet if you’re aiming to impress, it will be money well spent. Whether you take a client, colleague or date, SushiSamba’s successful mix of adventurous dishes, energetic atmosphere and eternally enthusiastic staff can’t fail to affect. The City needs more places like this. London needs more places like this. n SushiSamba, Heron Tower, 110 Bishopsgate, EC2N 4AY
n a Monday evening in Bermondsey, in the midst of a recession and mid-way through the quietest month of the year, securing a full house is no mean feat. Fairly hidden from view, understated and unassuming, Village East has been building a reputation since it launched a few years back, watching patiently as Bermondsey Street built up around it, with new shops, eateries, bars and boutiques opening every other week. While some restaurants may fear the competition, this quietly confident brassiere welcomes the steady increase in footfall, safe in the knowledge that once diners come for one hearty meal they’ll surely be back for seconds. A short walk from London Bridge Underground station my dining companion and I arrived hot and bothered from the momentary London heat wave to a knowledgeable barman named Daniel who whipped up some cocktails before we took our seats. In the mood for something savoury I polished off the house special Bloody Mary – or so called here, the Bloody M-arigato – followed in quick succession by a second, flavoured with ginger, coriander, wasabi and lime over wonderfully cooling ice. Resisting Daniel’s Mediterranean charms and the lure of a third instalment, my partner and I were shown to our table, noting how the place was filling up around us despite the relatively early hour (on a Monday!). I started off with the seared scallops, drizzled with syrupy sweet cardamom sucrose and deep fried cauliflower, perched on a swirl of cauliflower purée. While the combination sounds a little odd, the honey-like taste and texture of the syrup matched perfectly with the succulent translucent scallops. My partner’s first choice of the soft shell crab tempura was unavailable, so he was offered a prawn version instead which having tasted a small bite (an evil glare prevented a bigger helping) were crunchy on the outside and juicy on the inside. For mains I went with the Longhorn beef burger, topped with sautéed foie gras, caramelised onions, a jumbo gherkin and chips, which I managed to finish off pretty quickly, bar some superfluous bun shrapnel, with little help from my prawn hoarding partner. The burger was perfectly pink, juicy and delicious, the foie gras adding tremendously to both the texture and flavour. My other half went for the fillet steak and chips, which he had no problem demolishing in less than ten minutes. We left feeling suitably stuffed, as more and more punters flooded in, to go home and watch the latest episode of our current favourite box set – it was a Monday night, after all. n 171-173, Bermondsey Street, SE1 3UW
101
food & drink
connoisseur
South American IDOL Take a tour through Argentina as Gaucho’s head chef, Fernando Trocca, brings the best speciality cuts to come out of his homeland. Elle Blakeman finds out what makes Gaucho the only place to eat steak
A
s intangible things go, provenance is an interesting one. It can double the value of a car, it can reassure an art investor that his piece is worth the hefty price tag and it can prove that your signed first-edition does need a new glass-fronted bookcase. In food, provenance provides this same reassurance – history and value. It demonstrates that the chef knows precisely what he is serving you, where it came from, how it came to arrive in his kitchen and therefore – most importantly – exactly what to do with it. Gaucho, the chic, low-lit restaurant that has singlehandedly brought about a beef renaissance in London, prides itself on this basic philosophy of provenance. Having hand-picked 43 of the best farms Argentina has to offer, Gaucho ensures that each follow a strict protocol, with free range, grass-fed cows (fed on 17 types of grass, if you will believe), used in order to ensure the best quality meal this side of South America. Argentina is of course known for its meat – it’s famous for it – and this is at the heart of Zeev Godik’s successful group that has gone from a single steak restaurant in Amsterdam in 1976 to becoming a byword for an excellent steak, now boasting 16 restaurants in the group. And if steak is one of the best things to come out of Argentina, then Fernando Trocca, Gaucho’s executive chef for five years, is not far behind. Emerging onto the international food scene in 2002 as Chef Patron of Sucre, a restaurant that paved the way for modernised Argentine dishes, this has been much copied and rarely matched in calibre.
Trocca’s vision for the food at Gaucho is all about incorporating authentic Argentine and Latin American dishes into the menu, so you will find delicious, delicate ceviches (his salmon ceviche, served with red Jalapeno’s, onions and palm hearts is a must-try), tiritados and causitas in among the meat that the chain is famous for. But, inevitably, it does all come back to the steak, which after a 35-day long process of ‘Wet Aging’ (where the meat matures in its own juices) is available in a variety of speciality cuts and grilled exactly as you want it. If you’re getting lost around the cuadril (rump), chorizo (sirloin), ancho (rib eye) and limo (fillet), which would be understandable, you can order a Gaucho sampler, where you will be presented with a selection of each; 1.2 kilograms of pure, cooked-to-perfection steak that is guaranteed to satisfy even the most demanding of carnivores. For those looking to explore the Argentinian vibe without sacrificing their steak, Trocca has recently added some additional cuts: Argentine favourites entrana fina (marbled skirt), media luna vacio (flank steak) and oicana (which is the top of the cuadril). To accompany your meal, you will find an extensive and exquisite wine list selected by Argentinian wine expert Phil Crozier; I challenge anyone to order just a single glass of the Gran Altura Malbec, a rich, savoury red that goes perfectly with the light and spicy starters as well as the more meaty mains. For white lovers, the Selection G White Blend is divine and very easy to drink. Finish with the Dulce de Leche cheesecake and a glass of port-style Zuccardi Malbec, and then call a cab, go home, and sleep the sleep of the sated. n Gaucho Broadgate 5 Finsbury Avenue, EC2M 2PG 020 7256 6877 www.gauchorestaurants.co.uk
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THE Directory Whether you want to dine or to drink, to purchase gorgeous gifts and stylish outfits, to keep fit or to be pampered, the City is home to a wealth of services and amenities
Collection
Boodles
Boodles 2 & 3 The Courtyard, Royal Exchange EC3V 3LQ 020 7283 7284 www.boodles.com Bulgari 15 The Courtyard, Royal Exchange EC3V 3LQ 020 7283 4580 www.bulgari.com Ernest Jones Unit 3, Plantation Place, EC3M 3BD 020 7929 4491 www.ernestjones.co.uk Goldsmiths 186-190 Bishopsgate, EC2M 4NR 020 7283 6622 www.goldsmiths.co.uk Hermes 12-13 Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LL 020 7626 7794 www.hermes.com Links of London 27 Broadgate Circle, EC2M 2QS 020 7628 9668 www.linksoflondon.com Montblanc 10-11 The Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LL 020 7929 4200 www.montblanc.com Omega 8 The Courtyard, Royal Exchange EC3V 3LQ 020 7929 7706 www.omegawatches.com
Concierge
Grange City Hotel
Calibre
Ted’s Grooming Room
Chequers Beauty Salon 53-54 Leadenhall Market, EC3V 1LT 020 7283 3047 www.chequersbeauty.co.uk
Barber Express Ltd 14 Devonshire Row, EC2M 4RH 020 7377 5485 www.barberexpress.co.uk
Elysium Spa 21 Old Broad Street, EC2N 1HQ 020 7256 8624 www.elysiumlondon.co.uk
City Health & Fitness Club London Grange City Hotel, 8-10 Cooper’s Row EC3N 2BQ www.grangehealthclubs.com
Essential Therapy 39 Whitefriars Street, EC4Y 8BH 020 7353 1895 www.essential-therapie.co.uk Optix 175 Bishopsgate, EC2M 3WA 020 7628 0330 www.optixuk.com
Fetter Barbers Ltd 144 Fetter Lane, EC3M 4AJ 020 7702 3553 www.fetterbarbers.com F Flittner 86 Moorgate, EC2M 6SE 020 7606 4750 www.fflittner.com
Smilepod bank studio Leadenhall Market, off Fenchurch Street 18-20 Cullum Street, EC3M 7JJ 020 7836 6866 www.smilepod.co.uk
London City Runner 10 Ludgate Broadway, EC4V 6DU 020 7329 1955 www.londoncityrunner.com
The Harley Medical Group Marc House, Great Street, EC4V 2BB 0800 022 3385 www.harleymedical.co.uk
Nicholson & Griffin 74 Cannon Street, EC4N 6AE 020 7489 8551 www.nicholsonandgriffin.com
The Private Clinic 107 Cheapside, EC2V 6DN 0800 599 9911 www.theprivateclinic.co.uk
Ted’s Grooming Room 120 Cheapside, EC2V 6DR 020 7367 9932 www.tedsgroomingroom.com
Virgin Active 5 Old Broad Street, EC2N 1DW 0845 270 4080 www.virginactive.co.uk
grange Tower Bridge hotelHealth & Fitness Club 47 Prescot Street, E1 8GP 020 7959 5050 www.grangehotels.com
Connoisseur
Madison restaurant
1901 at andaz hotel 40 Liverpool Street, EC2M 7QN 020 7618 7000 www.andazdining.com Anohka Indian Restaurant St. Pauls 4 Burgon, EC4V 5DR 020 7236 3999 www.anokha-indian.com Brasserie Blanc 60 Threadneedle Street, EC2R 8HP 020 7710 9440 www.brasserieblanc.com Chamberlain’s Restaurants 23-25 Leadenhall Market, EC3V 1LR 020 7648 8690 www.chamberlains.org Chez Gerard 14 Trinity Square, EC3N 4AA 020 7213 0540 www.chezgerard.co.uk Cinnamon Kitchen & Anise 9 Devonshire Square, EC2M 4YF 020 7626 5000 www.cinnamon-kitchen.com Fora Restaurant 34-36 Houndsditch, EC3A 7DB 020 7626 2222 www.forarestaurants.co.uk Gattis Restaurant 1 Finsbury Avenue, EC2M 2PF 020 7247 1051 www.gattisrestaurant.co.uk Grappolo 1 Plough Place, EC4A 1DE
Financial Services
High Timber restaurant
020 7842 0510 www.grappololondon.com Haz Restaurant Plantation Place, 6 Mincing Lane, EC3M 3BD 020 7929 3173 www.hazrestaurant.co.uk High Timber Restaurant 8 High Timber Street, EC4V 3PA 020 7248 1777 www.hightimber.com Madison Restaurant 2 New Change, EC4M 9AD 020 8305 3088 www.madisonlondon.net
Association of British Insurers 51-55 Gresham Street, EC2V 7HQ www.abi.org.uk Association of Investment Companies 21-24 Chiswell Street, EC1Y 4YY www.theaic.co.uk Barclays 29-33 Wormwood Street, EC2M 1RP 0845 755 5555 www.barclays.co.uk Bank of Scotland 33 Old Broad Street, EC2N 1HW 020 7506 0402 www.bankofscotland.co.uk
Mint Leaf Lounge 12 Angel Court, EC2R 7HB 020 7600 0992 www.mintleaflounge.com
British Bankers’ Association 105-108 Old Broad Street, EC2N 1EX www.bba.org.uk
Mumbai Square 7 Middlesex Street, E1 7AA 020 7247 6461 www.mumbaisquare.co.uk
HSBC — City of london branch 60 Queen Victoria Street , EC4N 4TR 08457 404 404 www.hsbc.co.uk
Piccolino Restaurant 11 Exchange Square, EC2A 2BR 020 7375 2568 www.individualrestaurantcompanyplc.co.uk
Lloyds TSB 25 Gresham Street, EC2V 7HN 0800 032 3953 www.lloydstsb.com
Restaurant Sauterelle The Courtyard, Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LQ 020 7618 2483 www.sauterelle-restaurant.co.uk
NatWest 216 Bishopsgate, E7 9SH 0845 600 2803 www.natwest.com
Thai Square City 136 Minories, EC3N 1NT 020 7680 1111 www.thaisquare.net
Northern Rock 51 Moorgate, EC2R 6PB 020 7638 0039 www.nothernrock.co.uk
Kerry Darlington Exhibition – September 15th-23rd Personal Attendance – September 15th 2pm-4pm Gallery Rouge are the proud primary representatives of Kerry Darlington in the UK
Kerry Darlington Artist of the Year 2012, Fine Art Trade Guild Awards
Please contact the gallery for further details.
LONDON Homes&
PROPERTY Showcasing the finest homes in your area
C o v e r i n g CANARY WHARF, D OC K L AN D S , WA P P ING & T h e C i t y
Back to normality post-olympics market update
Pick of the best Canton Dining Table, ÂŁ1,200, Lombok www.lombok.co.uk
Gorgeous new homes
St Johns Wharf, Wapping E1W Glorious warehouse conversion
A spacious apartment within a conservation area opposite a small park. Master bedroom with en suite bathroom, 2 further bedrooms, shower room, large reception room opening onto a balcony with lovely river views, entrance hall, guest cloakroom, parking, lift and porterage. Approximately 186 sq m (2,006 sq ft). Share of freehold Guide Price: £1,450,000
KnightFrank.co.uk/Wapping wapping@knightfrank.com 020 7480 6848 (WAP120110)
Telfords Yard, Wapping E1W
Spectacular apartment A superb apartment finished to the highest of standards situated in this Victorian warehouse conversion. Master bedroom eith en suite bathroom and dressing room, 2 further bedrooms, shower room, reception room, open plan kitchen, media room, study, entrance hall, lift and porter. Approximately 244 sq m (2,634 sq ft). Share of Freehold Guide Price: £1,690,000
KnightFrank.co.uk/Wapping wapping@knightfrank.com 020 7480 6848 (WAP120086)
SALES CITY - Septemeber 2012 - 17 August 2012 - 24784
22/08/2012 17:59:27
Mews Street, Wapping E1W End of terrace house A charming house in an enviable location on the edge of St Katharine Docks. 2 bedrooms, bathroom, recpetion room, conservatory overlooking the delightful secluded walled garden, kitchen, wooden floors, secure garage, weekly cleaner and lovely dock views. The apartment is located with amenities, such as the Waitrose supermarket close by. Unfurnished Guide Price: £795 per week
KnightFrank.co.uk/Lettings wappinglettings@knightfrank.com 020 7480 6848 (ASP158273)
New Crane Wharf, Wapping E1W Charming riverside apartment A delightful apartment renovated to a very high standard in this popular converted warehouse. 1 bedroom, 1 bathroom, generous reception room and entrance hall, fantastic river views, underground car parking, 24 hour porterage and lift access. New Crane Wharf is conveniently located close to Wapping Overground Station for easy access to the City and Canary Wharf. Furnished Guide Price: £495 per week
KnightFrank.co.uk/Lettings wappinglettings@knightfrank.com 020 7480 6848 (ASP166491)
CITY 1 September 2012 - 15 August 2012 - 24671
20/08/2012 10:58:09
C
Free Trade Wharf, Wapping E1W Spacious apartment A riverside apartment to rent in this popular development conveniently located moments from Limehouse DLR and a short walk from Canary Wharf. 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms (1 en suite), open plan kitchen reception room, 24 hour porterage, parking, private balcony with south facing river views and leisure facilities. Furnished Guide Price: ÂŁ450 per week
KnightFrank.co.uk/Lettings wappinglettings@knightfrank.com 020 7480 6848 (ASP99964)
Teal Court, St Katharine Docks E1W Well presented apartment A smartly decorated apartment in this popular development over looking the tranquil St Katharine Docks. 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, good size reception room opening onto a private terrace, fully fitted separate kitchen, wooden floors, good storage, undergorund parking 24 hour porterage and great views of the Dock. Furnished Guide Price: ÂŁ775 per week
KnightFrank.co.uk/Lettings wappinglettings@knightfrank.com 020 7480 6848 (ASP117521)
CITY 2 September 2012 - 15 August 2012 - 24682
20/08/2012 11:00:34
Mace Close, Wapping E1W An attractive house A spacious house with views over the canal. Master bedroom with en suite shower room, second and third bedrooms with ensuite bathrooms, reception room, large kitchen dining room with access onto a private patio garden and a garage. The property is set over three floors and offers excellent living space. Unfurnished Guide Price: £650 per week
KnightFrank.co.uk/Lettings wappinglettings@knightfrank.com 020 7480 6848 (ASP167055)
Capstan Court, Wapping E1W Modern apartment A well presented apartment to rent in the heart of Wapping. 1 bedroom, 1 bathroom, generous reception room with wooden floors, open plan kitchen, private terrace, porterage, lift access and an undergorund car parking space. The apartment is ideally located for transport links with Wapping Overgorund and good bus routes. Furnished Guide Price: £390 per week
KnightFrank.co.uk/Lettings wappinglettings@knightfrank.com 020 7480 6848 (ASP86312)
CITY 3 September 2012 - 15 August 2012 - 24686
20/08/2012 11:04:50
Forge Square, Isle of Dogs E14
West India Quay, Canary Wharf E14
A very good size Studio apartment presented in immaculate condition located within The Forge Square. Bedroom, bathroom, reception room, balcony, concierge. Approximately 31.4 sq m (338 sq ft)
Situated on the 29th floor is this wonderfully spacious one bedroom apartment offering far reaching views. Bedroom, bathroom, reception room, concierge, private parking. Approximately 55.3 sq m (595 sq ft)
Leasehold
Leasehold
Guide Price: £237,500
Guide Price: £425,000
KnightFrank.co.uk/Canary-Wharf
KnightFrank.co.uk/Canary-Wharf
020 7512 9966 cwharf@knightfrank.com
Dunbar Wharf, Limehouse E14
020 7512 9966 cwharf@knightfrank.com
Seacon Tower, Limehouse E14
Beautifully presented two bedroom riverside apartment situated on the sixth floor. 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, reception room, terrace, balcony, concierge, private parking, river views. Approximately 96.2 sq m (1036 sq ft).
A stunning penthouse which offers some of the best views that are available in Canary Wharf. 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, reception room, 2 terraces, balcony, concierge, private parking, river views. Approximately 136.3 sq m (1,467 sq ft)
Share of Freehold Guide Price: £765,000
Leasehold Guide Price: £1,295,000
KnightFrank.co.uk/Canary-Wharf
KnightFrank.co.uk/Canary-Wharf
020 7512 9966 cwharf@knightfrank.com
August 2012 CW & City Sales - 20 August 2012 - 24800
020 7512 9966 cwharf@knightfrank.com
22/08/2012 08:35:46
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Dunbar Wharf, Limehouse E14
Dunbar Wharf, Limehouse E14
A stunning three double bedroom apartment with balcony offering far reaching Thames views. 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, reception room, balcony, concierge, river views. Approximately 152.7 sq m (1,644 sq ft)
A well proportioned two double bedroom apartment in one of Limehouse's most popular developments. 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, reception room, balcony, river views, concierge, private parking. Approximately 102.2 sq m (1,100 sq ft)
Leasehold
Leasehold
Guide Price: £1,300,000
Guide Price: £610,000
KnightFrank.co.uk/Canary-Wharf
KnightFrank.co.uk/Canary-Wharf
020 7512 9966 cwharf@knightfrank.com
Seacon Tower, Isle of Dogs E14
020 7512 9966 cwharf@knightfrank.com
Dundee Wharf, Limehouse E14
A well positioned apartment on the 16th floor of a popular portered block in Canary Wharf. 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, reception room, 2 balconies, concierge, private parking, river views. Approximately 61.8 sq m (666 sq ft)
An extremely well presented three double bedroom apartment with fabulous river views and terrace. 3 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, reception room, terrace, river views, concierge. Approximately 124.8 sq m (1344 sq ft)
Leasehold
Leasehold
Guide Price: £475,000
Guide Price: £1,200,000
KnightFrank.co.uk/Canary-Wharf
KnightFrank.co.uk/Canary-Wharf
020 7512 9966 cwharf@knightfrank.com
August 2012 CW & City Sales 2 - 20 August 2012 - 24804
020 7512 9966 cwharf@knightfrank.com
22/08/2012 08:39:28
Knight KnightFrank Frank
Grosvenor Waterside, Chelsea SW1W Bright one bedroom apartment
An excellent one bedroom apartment in Grosvenor Waterside with dock facing views that can be enjoyed from the balcony. The property is in pristine condition and benefits from 1 secure parking space and 24 hour concierge. Approximately 50 sq m (538 sq ft) Leasehold Guide Price: ÂŁ795,000 (RVR120158)
KnightFrank.co.uk/Riverside Riverside@knightfrank.com 020 3597 7670
Knight KnightFrank Frank
Grosvenor Waterside, Chelsea SW1W Spacious apartment
This modern apartment has been finished to a high standard The master bedroom has an en suite bathroom and dressing area. With views of Grosvenor Dock and easy access to Sloane Square. 3 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms (2 en suite) reception room, kitchen, 24 hour security and concierge, leisure facilities, secure parking. Approximately 125 sq m (1,350 sq ft) Leasehold Guide Price: ÂŁ1,385,000 (RVR110065)
KnightFrank.co.uk/Riverside Riverside@knightfrank.com 020 3597 7670
Vibrant, sophisticated and diverse, London is one of the world’s most exciting cities. Located at its heart, The Residences at W London offer a world-class lifestyle complete with all the perks of being a guest of W Hotels.® The Residences at W London are comprised of eleven exclusive two and three bedroom duplex penthouses situated on the top two floors of W London offering stunning views in a world –class location. wlondonresidences.com
Contact Kate Townrow 020 7499 1012 Gary Hall 020 7480 6848 coventgardenlettings@KnightFrank.com www.knightfrank.co.uk/lettings
homes & property
DEVELOPMENT FOCUS A Modern Lifestyle
F
ollowing the tremendous popularity of NEO Bankside, one of the South Bank’s most modern and striking residential buildings, the latest phase of the development has been unveiled. The D Pavilion consists of studio and one, two and three bedroom apartments, which echo the luxuriousness and attention to detail bestowed on the whole of the project by its award-winning architects Stirk, Harbour & Partners. The interior of each home is modern and neutral with fluid and inclusive living spaces for entertaining, and high-tech kitchens and bathrooms. This means they are not only attractive but also serve as a ready-made, stylish retreat from the city. Many of the homes boast fantastic views. Residents are sure to find they spend much of their time enjoying the impressive array of amenities on site. Restaurants, bars, a convenience store and a private gym (to be completed by the end of 2012) are supplemented by a private wine cellar, communal gardens and a bank of cycles.
The development is perfectly situated within London’s most vibrant cultural quarter, just moments from the Tate Modern and a short walk from the City of London. This means the apartments are perfectly suited to those who work in the capital’s financial quarter, as well as those looking to explore. n
Holland Street, SE1 £450-£3,250 PER WEEK Knight Frank Wapping www.knightfrank.co.uk/wapping
020 7480 6848 117
INTERNATIONAL CUISINE C/O UPPER STREET
WORLD CLASS DANCE PERFORMANCES C/O SADLER’S WELLS
GLOBAL EXPOSURE OF YOUR ISLINGTON PROPERTY C/O KNIGHT FRANK
ISLINGTON KNOWLEDGE WITH A GLOBAL REACH We know that when it comes to choosing an agent to sell or let your home you want to be confident that you have the very best team working for you. At Knight Frank we make sure that the process is handled with care and professionalism every step of the way. And with a network of 245 offices in the UK and around the world, we are ideally placed to match your property to the perfect buyer or tenant, whether they are in Moscow or Mayfair.
Knight Frank Islington - now open at 353 Upper Street, London N1 0PD Speak to our team now on 020 3657 7340 if you are thinking of selling or letting your home. You can also follow us on twitter @Islington_n1
1 2
savills.co.uk
LANDMARK EAST, e14
MILLHARBOUR, e14
Reception room ø kitchen/dining area ø 3 bedrooms ø 2 bathrooms ø concierge ø terrace ø protected parking ø 173 sq m (1,861 sq ft)
Reception room ø dining room ø kitchen ø 3 bedrooms ø 3 bathrooms ø terrace ø balcony ø 2 parking spaces ø 128 sq m (1,373 sq ft)
Guide £1.599 million Leasehold
Guide £1.075 million Leasehold
3 4
Savills Canary Wharf bpage@savills.com 020 7531 2500
Savills Canary Wharf bpage@savills.com 020 7531 2500
HANOVER HOUSE, e14
APOLLO BUILDING, e14
Reception room ø kitchen/dining room ø 3 bedrooms ø 2 bathrooms ø 3 balconies ø parking space ø concierge ø 144 sq m (1,555 sq ft)
Reception room ø open plan kitchen ø 2 bedrooms ø 2 bathrooms ø balcony ø protected parking space ø concierge ø gym ø 97 sq m (1,047 sq ft)
Guide £950,000 Leasehold
Guide £479,500 Leasehold
Savills Canary Wharf bpage@savills.com 020 7531 2500
Savills Canary Wharf bpage@savills.com 020 7531 2500
1 2
savills.co.uk
NEO BANKSIDE, se1
NORFOLK HOUSE, ecv4
Reception ø kitchen ø 3 double bedrooms ø 3 bathrooms ø 24hr concierge ø 187 sq m (2,010 sq ft)
Reception ø kitchen ø 3 double bedrooms ø 2 bathrooms ø 2 terraces ø porterage ø underground parking ø 149 sq m (1,605 sq ft)
Guide £3,999,995 Leasehold
Guide £2.4 million Share of Freehold
3 4
Savills Docklands zjames@savills.com 020 7456 6800
Savills Docklands juprowse@savills.com 020 7456 6800
ST JOHNS, e1w
TELFORDS YARD, e1w
Reception ø kitchen ø 3 double bedrooms ø 2 bathrooms ø 2 private terraces ø 2 parking spaces ø 105 sq m (1,135 sq ft)
Reception ø kitchen ø 2 bedrooms ø 2 bathrooms ø undercover parking ø concierge ø 135 sq m (1,450 sq ft)
Guide £799,000 Leasehold
Guide £775,000 Share of Freehold
Savills Docklands zjames@savills.com 020 7456 6800
Savills Docklands juprowse@savills.com 020 7456 6800
LEFT-HAND
SALES LETTINGS CONVEYANCING
MORTGAGE ADVICE REFURBISHMENTS LEASE ENFRANCHISEMENTS
PROPERTY
WORKSHOP
The answer to all your property questions. Thursday 20th September | 5-7pm At Hamptons International, we pride ourselves on making moving home as stress free as possible for our clients. Attend our informal Property Workshop and we can do the same for you. Putting all the expertise you could ask for under one roof – from local market knowledge to mortgage and conveyancing advice – this informal event will ensure you’re in the best possible position to move. Confidential one-to-one meetings are also available. To find out more and book your place, please contact 020 7717 5489.
Hamptons Tower Bridge 41 Shad Thames, Tower Bridge London SE1 2NJ Sales. 020 7717 5489 towerbridge@hamptons-int.com Lettings. 020 7717 5491 towerbridgelettings@hamptons-int.com www.hamptons.co.uk
Beyond your expectations
ns
RIGHT-HAND
Hamptons Tower Bridge Office Sales. 020 7717 5489 towerbridge@hamptons-int.com
City Walk, SE1 Asking Price £595,000 Leasehold
Telfords Yard, E1W Asking Price £1,900,000 Share of Freehold
A two bed, two bath 829 sq/ft apartment on the sixth floor with a balcony and secure parking.
A 2745 sq ft, well proportioned third floor, 4 bedroom warehouse conversion retaining character and benefiting from views of the City.
Bermondsey, SE1 Asking Price £715,000 Leasehold
Vanilla & Sesame, SE1 Asking Price £550,000 Leasehold
An eighth floor, two bedroom, two bathroom apartment spanning 917 sq ft which benefits from a large balcony with partial City views.
A stunning West facing 689 sq ft one bedroom apartment with a full length terrace, views of the Shard of Glass and the top of Tower Bridge.
Borough Market, SE1 Asking Price £695,000 Leasehold
Shad Thames, SE1 Asking Price £4,250,000 Leasehold
A first floor, 2 bedroom, 2 bathroom apartment located in the heart of Borough Market.
A stunning, 3068 sq ft four bedroom duplex penthouse apartment with terraces and a balcony overlooking the Thames with views of Tower Bridge and Canary Wharf.
LEFT-HAND
Hamptons City Office Lettings. 020 7717 5437 citylettings@hamptons-int.com
High Timber Street EC4 £385 per week
Wheler Street E1 £400 per week
A spacious one bedroom apartment in this riverside development moments from St Pauls and the One New Change shopping development.
A well located one bedroom flat offering light and open accommodation located moments from the vibrant Spitalfields Market.
Folgate Street E1 £460 per week
Commercial Street E1 £695 per week
High specification one bedroom apartment on the 4th floor of this popular Spitalfields development with balcony offering fantastic views
This superb penthouse corner unit enjoys an abundance of natural light, private terrace and far reaching views across London.
Leman Street E1
North Tenter Street E1 £730 per week
£850 per week
Fantastic high specification two bedroom penthouse apartment perfectly located on the edge of the City of London and moments from Aldgate Station and trendy Spitalfields.
Brand new two bedroom duplex apartment located close to Aldgate Station, with large patio area, internal space measuring over 1000 sq ft and finished to a specification.
RIGHT-HAND
Hamptons Tower Bridge Office Lettings. 020 7717 5491 towerbridgelettings@hamptons-int.com
Anise Building SE1 £870.00 per week
Butlers & Colonial Wharf SE1 £595.00 per week
A stunning 1450 sq ft two bedroom apartment boasting two spacious bedrooms, large reception room with modern open plan kitchen and brickwork
A two double bedroom apartment arranged within a beautiful gated development boasting a balcony over looking a pretty communal courtyard, parking and porter.
Scott Sufferance SE1 £600.00 per week
Boardwalk Place E14 £650.00 per week
Immaculate two bedroom, two bathroom contemporary apartment with separate kitchen and decked terrace overlooking the Dock.
Superb refurbished three bedroom apartment in this popular development overlooking the inner dock and towards Canary Wharf.
Tower Bridge Wharf E1W £550.00 per week
New Concordia SE1 £550.00 per week
A beautiful one bedroom apartment arranged on the 3rd floor of a sought after portered riverside development boasting a balcony with river views towards Tower Bridge.
An outstanding one bedroom apartment situated within a popular warehouse conversion boasting large kitchen/reception room, dressing area, exposed brick and communal pool.
Hamptons Islington
020 7226 4688 islington@hamptons-int.com
Noel Road, N1 A beautifully presented Grade II listed Freehold family house that has been elegantly renovated. An abundance of period features including wood flooring, fireplaces with marble surrounds, working shutters and attractive cornicing. There are four bedrooms and a study, a double reception room on the raised ground floor, and an extended dining room/TV room on the lower floor. The kitchen is beautifully crafted with high quality appliances and under floor heating. The garden to the rear is paved and walled.
Guide Price ÂŁ1,995,000 Freehold
Hamptons Islington
020 7226 4688 islington@hamptons-int.com
Bromfield Street, N1 A beautifully refurbished four double bedroomed house with 2067 sq ft over four floors in central Islington, retaining period features and with off street gated parking. Double reception room, spacious kitchen/diner, two bathrooms, landscaped garden and available with no onward chain.
Asking Price ÂŁ1,650,000 Freehold
Hamptons Islington
020 7226 4688 islington@hamptons-int.com
Clock Tower Mews, N1 Asking Price ÂŁ875,000 Share of Freehold
Ideally positioned within a private mews is a fantastic house offering flexible living accommodation over three floors. The property has been extremely well maintained and is currently presented as a two bedroom, two reception room, two bathroom terrace with its own rear garden and integral garage.
Culford Road, N1 Asking Price ÂŁ995,000 Freehold
A charming period house over three floors in a cul-de-sac location of a popular conservation area. On the lower ground floor is a dining room and kitchen and with garden access, along with the third bedroom and shower room. The raised ground floor has a double reception room with large sash windows, bathroom, and there are two further bedrooms upstairs, along with a roof terrace. An ornate 60 ft low maintenance rear garden and off street parking is provided to the front.
Hamptons Islington
Lettings 020 7717 5455 islingtonlettings@hamptons-int.com
St. Pancras Chambers, NW1 Guide Price ÂŁ850 per week (Long Let) Set in this historic and newly renovated building, we are pleased to offer this modern and character filled two bedroom property offering fantastic transport links and amenities on your doorstep, as well as a concierge facility.
Thornhill Square, N1 Guide Price ÂŁ1300 per week (Long Let) Vast family home on this picturesque square offering well proportioned rooms, original features and modern fixtures throughout with private garden and great transport links.
Hamptons Islington
Lettings 020 7717 5455 islingtonlettings@hamptons-int.com
Graham Street, N1 Guide Price £375 per week (Long Let)
Airy interior designed studio apartment thoughtfully furnished with an impressive entertainment area and good storage. Ideal for a pied á terre or for the busy professional with high specification fittings throughout and concierge facility only minutes from Angel Tube station.
Compton Road, N1 Guide Price £675 per week (Long Let)
Beautifully finished top floor conversion offering a large lateral living space, high specification fixtures and fittings throughout within easy walking distance to Highbury & Islington Station as well as the amenities of Upper Street.
Hamptons Islington
020 7226 4688 islington@hamptons-int.com
Belitha Villas, N1 Asking Price ÂŁ799,950 Share of Freehold A wonderful maisonette occupying the lower floor of this stunning Georgian villa. The property offers two bedrooms, separate kitchen, study area, bathroom & shared garden.
Southgate Road, N1 Asking Price ÂŁ945,000 Freehold A superb three bedroom town house in this increasingly popular area in Islington. The property which offers wonderful entertaining space with built in audio system and data cabling, has a lovely open plan kitchen/dining room/reception room, opening onto the garden on the ground floor. There are three bedrooms and three bathrooms. There is a secure lawned garden to the rear, a roof terrace and off street parking to the front of the house.
homes & property
HOT PROPERTY: Glamorous Riverside Living
A stunning three bedroom duplex penthouse apartment has become available in Grosvenor Waterside. The property is amongst the most bright and spacious of its kind with floor-to-ceiling windows to the living area providing beautiful views of the Docks, and an expansive roof terrace stretching across the upper 7th floor. The living space is large and open-plan but a
separate kitchen also benefits from an additional dining area, while the third bedroom could easily be used as a study when needed. Storage space throughout the property is excellent, while styling is neutral yet contemporary, making it both a practical and attractive home for the busy professional. Grosvenor Waterside is an extremely sought-
after development situated north of the River and near to the open spaces of Battersea Park. High quality amenities include a gym and spa while 24-hour security and a concierge service provide peace of mind. The property comes with two parking spaces and the fashionable Kings Road is within walking distance, together with the transport links of Sloane Square. n
Grosvenor Waterside, sw1w ÂŁ3.95M LEASEHOLD Knight Frank Riverside www.knightfrank.co.uk
020 3597 7670 133
homes & property
expert comment SALES:
LETTINGS:
Looking ahead
Islington in focus
OLIVER SMITH, JUNIOR NEGOTIATOR AT KNIGHT
NICOLA williams, LETTINGS VALUER AT KNIGHT
FRANK IN WAPPING, COMMENTS ON THE STATE OF THE
FRANK IN ISLINGTON, COMMENTS ON THE STATE OF
RESIDENTIAL SALES MARKET
THE RESIDENTIAL LETTINGS MARKET
London, having been enlivened by the rush of the Olympics, has never seemed so vibrant. In contrast, the tranquillity of Wapping encouragingly continues to lure those wanting a good investment in a quieter area. With summer holidays ending and the 2012 Olympics subsiding, thoughts return to reality with a steady increase in both applications and properties coming on to the market. The international buyer is still the most prevalent. With Canary Wharf and the City being close by and great transport links to both, the employment opportunities offered draw those from around the world. With mortgages becoming more readily available, those renting are also yearning to find an investment with good capital growth prospects. In Wapping, where you can get far more for your money than in the west, in a more convenient location, applicants continue to succumb to the allure of the waterside properties and stylish warehouse conversions. Whilst Prime Central London prices have risen by 0.5 per cent in July, overpricing still creeps into the market causing some properties to stagnate on the market. However, whilst the ominous cloud of a double dip recession looms all the more gloomy, the London market still remains a safe haven for those who wish to invest in bricks and mortar rather than institutions. Admittedly sales and applicant interest have been quiet in August. However, as the distractions of the summer reduce, this should make way for more instructions in September. In Wapping there has been a lack of availability over the Olympic period but we are confident that the clever vendors will accompany us to into the rampant September market.
Islington, ‘The Notting Hill of the East’ as it has been described, attracts thousands of potential tenants each month with its proximity to the City and the West End, beautiful residential roads, boroughs with young and established families and the many shops, restaurants and bars which cater for every taste. Islington has long out grown the blue square it was given on the Monopoly board with the average flat renting at approximately £600 a week and terraced houses renting at over £1000 per week. Following a very successful year in 2011 for the Islington lettings market, investment landlord’s from all over the world attempted to cash in on high yield returns. However, with a number of new developments being completed in the first quarter of the year, the large amount of new stock unbalanced the Islington market, where we usually experience a lack of properties. Together with an increase in the number of tenancy renewals, this caused property prices to fall temporarily. With many people relocating to this vibrant area, the lettings market then balanced out with the momentum increasing the closer we came to the summer months. The opening of Knight Frank in Islington has been long awaited and the strong relationships that have been built with large banks, law firms and other blue chip companies means that corporate tenants and relocations exceed 85 per cent of our tenancies. These typically have a high level of renewal and in the last quarter of 2011, 80 per cent of our corporate clients did so. The new Islington Office is situated on the busy Upper Street, in the heart of the area and means we are well-placed to advise those looking for a lively and convenient base.
Knight Frank Wapping 020 7480 6848 www.knightfrank.co.uk/wapping
Knight Frank Islington 020 3657 7362 www.knightfrank.co.uk
134
Property Showcase Unique and Contemporary
W
ithin a small building containing just four flats and fronting onto the Limekiln Dock is a wonderful example of a warehouse conversion: it has been sensitively modernised and retains much of the building’s original character with exposed brickwork, cast iron columns and wooden beams. The flat extends to approximately 2,111 sqft and is designed to the highest of standards with an integrated Bose sound system, automated lighting throughout, solid oak floors and bespoke walnut storage cupboards, as well as a huge basement storage are. The expansive reception room is 23ft x 61.5ft at its widest point and is perfect for entertaining on a grand scale. The open plan layout provides an abundance of space for a fabulous L-shaped Poggenphol kitchen with Gaggenau and Miele appliances, dining for a dozen and a sizeable area overlooking the dock for sitting back and enjoying the sound of the waves. The master bedroom suite also looks out on to the dock and has plentiful bespoke oak wardrobes and a high specification granite and marble bath and shower room with Phillippe Starck Duravit fittings. There is also a second bedroom with an en suite shower room at the front of the property. A third double bedroom quietly tucked away from the living space of the flat would also lend itself as a study or library area. A further guest cloakroom/shower room is available for guests. Situated in popular Narrow Street, public transport is via the DLR, river bus and underground at Canary Wharf and the property also has its own mooring rights. Alongside local shops and restaurants there is a further huge selection at Canary Wharf. n
Narrow Street, E14 ÂŁ1.55M SHARE OF FREEHOLD Knight Frank Canary Wharf and Knight Frank Wapping www.knightfrank.co.uk
020 7512 9966 or 020 7480 6848 135
homes & property
a voice from the country The Shape of the Nation >3:00
2:30
2:00
York
Liverpool
Norwich
Crewe
1:30
Grantham
Birmingham Worcester Ipswich
Stafford Banbury
Evesham
Peterborough
Kingham Bicester
Milton Keynes
1:00 Colchester
Oxford
Bath Spa
Bristol
Cardiff
Didcot
LONDON
Basingstoke Andover Salisbury
Southampton
Sherborne Bournemouth
Southend
Thorpe Bay
Borough Green & Wrotham
Winchester
Brighton
Shoeburyness
Maidstone
Ashford International Dover
Wareham
O
nce in a blue moon there will be a country house buyer who wants to get away from the City and never go back. For the vast majority, however, the first action will be to set an acceptable commuting distance from London. Getting the protractor out and drawing a couple of concentric circles around London will give you a rough idea of which areas are within reach. But the map appears a little different when you look closer at journey times, train timetables and, of course, available properties and prices. Take Andover and Bath, for example. The former is typically regarded as an acceptable commute, the latter as being more of a weekend destination. The 06.26 from Andover, which pulls into Waterloo 73 minutes later, is fairly packed with classic country property owners heading into the City for a day’s trading. Property in and around Bath carries a premium, for sure. But the level of research that Middleton typically undertakes reveals that Bath Spa railway station is in the throes of a huge refurbishment, with more parking, improved access and some wonderful eateries opening up on the new concourse. With a journey time of 90 minutes to Paddington, Bath is a little further, but it also has a much broader range of property types than its Hampshire rival. Another example: the Middleton map puts York in the same band as Bristol for commuting, despite the fact that, as the crow flies, it’s 210 miles compared to 120. These days, though, for the country commuter the speed at 136
which the train flies through the countryside may be of secondary importance to the rate at which data travels through the ether. Once you’re on the train, settled in your seat and using your time productively, you may even find that the First Class compartment represents an extension of your office — comfortable, quiet, nicely connected, and with the added bonus of no possibility of being drawn into a meeting you’d been assured you wouldn’t need to attend. An old friend of ours commutes 2.5 hours each way from Tiverton to London every day. He’d have had to find another £1.5m to purchase a comparable property in Hampshire. That cash buys a lot of laptop, a nice breakfast and plenty of cappuccinos to help the journey by. In fact, his work-while-you-travel patterns are so finelytuned he says he’s tempted to get on the train sometimes, even if he doesn’t need to be in London. The urge to get out of town hits everyone at some point. Next time you feel it, make sure you look at the map with a different perspective. It’s downloadable from our website. Of course, the map will change shape again in the next few years. Infrastructure projects such as Crossrail and HighSpeed2 have the potential to transform journey times and bring new areas of the country into the commuter belt. n Tom Hudson Middleton Advisors act on behalf of private clients looking to purchase country houses and estates in the UK 01235 436 271 www.middletonadvisors.com
Free Trade Wharf,Wapping E1W
Capstan Court,Wapping Wall,Wapping E1W
Price: £479,995
Price: £584,995
Lime Close,Wapping E1W 2QP
Manchester Road, Docklands E14 3DP
Price: £399,995
Price: £248,500
This 2 double bedroom, 5th floor, 2 bathroom apartment Terrace with superb River Thames views, This 24-hour porterage development benefits from a communal gym, swimming pool, sauna, hot tub, pool and gardens. 2 secure parking spaces. Situated close to Limehouse Station.
2 bedroom house situated within this popular West Wapping canal side development. Fitted kitchen. Reception. First floor bathroom. Garden. Allocated parking. Within easy access to the City & Docklands. Close to Wapping & Tower Hill stations
2 Double bedroom 2nd floor warehouse converted apartment within this sought after development. Fitted kitchen. Reception with double doors leading to a balcony. 2 Bathrooms. Laminated wood flooring. Situated close to Wapping station. Parking.
3 Bedroom ground and first floor maisonette. Reception. Fitted kitchen. First floor bathroom. Own garden. Close to Island Gardens Docklands Light Railway. Easy access to Canary Wharf.
ea2 Estate Agency Heritage Court | 8-10 Sampson Street | Wapping | London E1W 1NA t: 020 7702 3456 | f: 020 7702 9168 www.ea2.co.uk | property@ea2group.com
Anchorage Point Cuba Street, Docklands E14 8NF
Spacious 2 double bedroom apartment within this sought after Riverside development. Within a short walk into Canary Wharf which offers great shopping facilities. South Quay/ Canary Wharf Docklands Light Railway are nearby. Porterage. Residents use of gym and pool. Spacious reception leading to private balcony. Ideal for the Canary Wharf commuter.
China Court Asher Way,Wapping E1W 2JF 2 double bedroom ground and first floor duplex apartment situated within the sought after gated development of Quay 430. Fitted kitchen. Reception. 2 Bathrooms. Own rear garden. Allocated parking. Close to the City/ Tower Hill stations and St Katharine’s Dock.
Rental Price: £430 PW
Rental Price: £450 PW
Wapping High Street,Wapping E1W 2JL
Spirit Quay,Wapping E1W 2UT
Spacious 2 Double bedroom, 3 storey house. Bathroom plus additional ‘Wet’ room. Situated close to Wapping station and within easy access to the City & Canary Wharf. Fitted kitchen/ diner. Reception. Garden. Allocated parking space. Close to Wapping station and local bus routes.
3 double bedroom, 3 storey house within canal side development. Lounge. Fitted kitchen diner. 2 bathrooms. Views of ornamental canal. Garden. Allocated parking space. Close to Tower Hill stations and St Katharine’s dock.
Rental Price: £550 PW
Rental Price: £600 PW
ea2 Estate Agency Heritage Court | 8-10 Sampson Street | Wapping | London E1W 1NA t: 020 7702 3456 | f: 020 7702 9168 www.ea2.co.uk | property@ea2group.com
London's Finest Properties
LETTINGS
SALES
Caspian Wharf, Yeo Street, E3
Ravenscroft Court, Essian Street, E1
• Studio apartment • Fully furnished • 4th floor • Balcony • New concierge service • Nr. Langdon Park DLR
• Brand new 1 & 2 bedroom apartments • Fully furnished • Balcony • River views • 5 Minutes walk from connections to the Capital's entire Tube, Mainline and DLR
£235 per week
Starting from £280 per week
£459,950
£725,000
Ontario Tower, Canary Wharf, E14
The Landmark, West Tower, E14
• Studio Apartment • Fully furnished • 18th Floor • On-Site Leisure Centre • 24hr Concierge Service • Nr. Blackwall DLR
• One bedroom apartment • Fully furnished • 22nd Floor • On-site Gymnasium • Concierge service • Nr. South Quay DLR
Sugar House, Leman Street, E1
• Immaculate 4th floor one bed apartment • PeriodVictorian architecture • Superior fixtures and fittings. • Smart furniture pack. • 24hrConcierge • Well placed for the City and Canary Wharf.
Royal Arsenal, Cadogan Road, SE18
• Stunning 3 bedroom duplex apartment • Historic grade II listed riverside property • Secure underground allocated parking. • 24 hr gym and concierge service • Moments from the DLR and mainline train
£320 per week
£395 per week
£445,000
£359,950
The Landmark, West Tower, E14
New Providence Wharf, Canary Wharf, E14
• Two Bedroom apartment • Fully furnished • 6th floor • On-site gymnasium • 24hr Concierge Service • Nr. South Quay DLR
• Two Bedroom Apartment • Fully furnished • 11th Floor • Balcony • Concierge service • Nr. Blackwell DLR
New Providence Wharf, Canary Wharf, E14
• 6th floor two bedroom, two bathroom • Highly prestigious development. • Garden and river views • Contemporary fixtures and fittings.. • Moments from Blackwall DLR and Canary Wharf
• Stunning 3 bedroom apartment • 14th floor • Unsurpassed river views • Recently refurbished to exceptional standard • Lift and 24 Hr concierge
£525 per week
£495,000
£2,400,000
£515 per week
Strata, Elephant & Castle, SE1
St George Wharf, SW8
• Superb riverside apartment • Two bedroom/two bathroom • Immaculate condition • Balcony and river views • Exceptional transport links • 24hr concierge
• Ultra contemporary two bedroom • Capital's newest landmark development • Cutting edge architecture and design • Moments from the South Bank and transport links • Far reaching views across London
St George Wharf, SW8
Sales | Lettings | Corporate Services | Property Management | Short Term Worldwide www.liferesidential.co.uk
Central London 020 7582 7989
Docklands 020 7476 0125
North London 020 8446 9524
South London 020 8692 2244
West London 020 8896 9990
Royal Arsenal Riverside is a 76 acre mixed use regeneration scheme on the banks of the River Thames in the Royal Borough of Greenwich, just a short distance from Overground and DLR stations. On-site benefits include 24 hour concierge, residents’ gym, Young’s pub and dining, Tesco Express, a proposed forthcoming Crossrail station, health and wellbeing studio and Zipcar car share club.
1, 2 & 3 bedroom apartments from £252,500. For more information call 020 8331 7130. Sales and Marketing Suite and Show Apartments open daily 10am to 6pm (until 8pm on Thursdays).
www.royalarsenalriverside.co.uk Proud to be a member of the Berkeley Group of companies
Proud to be British
C E L E B R AT I N G
A GREAT BRITISH SUMMER
Prices and details correct at time of going to press. Photography depicts Royal Arsenal Riverside.
Heritage location and a whole new lifestyle
the smart way to
or SELL
BUY
your property
A service defined by discretion and dedication that will save you time and money. His extensive experience in property consultancy takes the pain and effort out of the buying and selling process, and any problems that you would usually encounter, become his problems and not yours.
work smarter, not harder. T: 020 7499 3434 M: 078 3146 5414 E: simon@simonbarnes.com
www.simonbarnes.com
LEONARD STREET, EC2 londonsquare.co.uk
REGISTER NOW T: 0333 666 2535
E: leonardstreet@londonsquare.co.uk
STUNNING SHOW APARTMENT AND MARKETING SUITE LAUNCHING 27th SEPTEMBER 2012 • Luxury one and two bedroom apartments and three elegant penthouses • Stylish, contemporary specification • Close proximity to both fashionable Hoxton Square and Old Street Station • Prices from £565,000 for a one bedroom apartment and £675,000 for a two bedroom apartment
Computer generated image is indicative only. Prices and details are correct at time of going to press.
LSQ_LS_CityMagazine_297x210_Sep12.indd 1
16/08/2012 13:10
homes & property
DEVELOPMENT FOCUS A Modern Lifestyle
F
ollowing the tremendous popularity of NEO Bankside, one of the South Bank’s most modern and striking residential buildings, the latest phase of the development has been unveiled. The D Pavilion consists of studio and one, two and three bedroom apartments, which echo the luxuriousness and attention to detail bestowed on the whole of the project by its award-winning architects Stirk, Harbour & Partners. The interior of each home is modern and neutral with fluid and inclusive living spaces for entertaining, and high-tech kitchens and bathrooms. This means they are not only attractive but also serve as a ready-made, stylish retreat from the city. Many of the homes boast fantastic views. Residents are sure to find they spend much of their time enjoying the impressive array of amenities on site. Restaurants, bars, a convenience store and a private gym (to be completed by the end of 2012) are supplemented by a private wine cellar, communal gardens and a bank of cycles. 146
The development is perfectly situated within London’s most vibrant cultural quarter, just moments from the Tate Modern and a short walk from the City of London. This means the apartments are perfectly suited to those who work in the capital’s financial quarter, as well as those looking to explore. n
Holland Street, SE1 £450-£3,250 PER WEEK Knight Frank Wapping www.knightfrank.co.uk/wapping
020 7480 6848
avant-garde SHOREDITCH E1
E 1 EGANT THE HEIGHT OF LOND ON LIVING...
... C OM I NG S O ON
LUXURY HOTEL STYLE RECEPTION WITH 24HR CONCIERGE • SUPERB SPECIFIC ATION • PRIVATE GYMNASIUM • PRIVATE ROOF TERRACE
Exquisite and well placed one, two and three bedroom apartments & penthouses set in the heart of Shoreditch, London’s new cultural and vibrant hotspot. Set just two minutes from Shoreditch High Street station, making the whole of London accessible. Just a short walk from Bishopsgate and The City. Shoreditch High Street 2mins
Liverpool Street 10mins
West End 11mins
Canary Wharf 15mins
LAUNCHING OCTOBER 2012 from a bespoke Sales & Marketing Suite. Register now to avoid disappointment.
0203 538 3364
avantgardetower.com
Computer generated images of development. Times are approximate and courtesy of tfl.gov.uk.