MAY 2018 s issue 080 s ÂŁ5
Natural wonders Fashion in full bloom for RHS Chelsea Flower Show
The renaissance of CRAFT
Heaven scent Matching memories with perfumes on Burlington Arcade
RUNWILD MEDIA GROUP
Artisans choose paintbrush and pottery wheel to revive the true meaning of luxury
baselworld 2018 s making moser crystal s inside mortimer house s a monaco cruise
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World renowned. Locally loved.
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HARRO D S.CO M/ THEWELLNE SSCLINIC
contents
34 32
regulars
82
10. Editor’s letter 12. Five minutes with... Savile Row tailor Richard Anderson 14. Couture culture
26
16. Spotlight: the perks of being a wallflower Fashionable floral displays 18. Profile: Guy Salter Hannah Lemon speaks to London Craft Week’s founder 91. Back in time: House of Garrard
culture
26. Past masters Camilla Apcar seeks out specialists in ancient crafts
collection
24. Prize lots
34. The royal effect Rings fit for princesses 38. Baselworld watches Horology highlights from the fair
18
interiors 59. Interior news 62. Heart of glass The making of Czech crystal, uncovered by Marianne Dick
health & beauty
82. Suite dreams: The Mandrake 84. City break: Auckland Worthy of more than just a North Island stopover
66. Health & beauty news
86. Cruise control Experience the Monaco Grand Prix from the water
67. Spa review: the spa at Brown’s Hotel
property
68. Scents of being Personalised perfumes in Burlington Arcade
92. Property news
31. Objects of desire 32. All that glitters Jewellery highlights from Baselworld 2018
23. Art news
64
high life 74. Food & drink news
fashion
75. Restaurant review: Delamina
43. Style her 46. Fashion shoot
76. Live to work Business and pleasure at Mortimer House
57. Style him
81. Travel news
68
HUGO BOSS UK LTD. Phone +44 (0)20 7554 5700 boss.com
BOSS Stores 122 New Bond Street 178-180 Regent Street
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editor
From the MAY 2018
Editor Hannah Lemon Associate Editor Camilla Apcar Assistant Editors Marianne Dick Ellen Millard Contributing Editor Lauren Romano Jewellery Editor Mhairi Graham Watch Editor Richard Brown Art Editor Laddawan Juhong Production Manager Alice Ford Production Jamie Steele Hugo Wheatley General Manager Fiona Smith Commercial Director Andrew Turner Managing Director Eren Ellwood
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profile
GUY
SALTER
Joining the army, bartering for Russian hats, working with HRH The Prince of Wales, launching London Craft Week – there isn’t much the ex-director of Asprey and Laurent-Perrier hasn’t tried his hand at. Now he’s predicting the future of luxury... LU X URY LONDON.CO.UK | 019
“Luxury needs to be redefined as a spectrum of people doing and making amazing things” - Guy Salter
Remember the days of blingy brand names and diamanté-encrusted logos on handbags? Thankfully, luxury has grown up, as have its customers, favouring skill, detail and quality over logos and price tags. So says Guy Salter, founder of London Craft Week – and he should know, having been at the helm of LaurentPerrier, Monica Vinader, Nyetimber, Asprey and Garrard, to name but a few (p.18). His five-day festival of artisans brings hidden talent, age-old traditions and exciting new technologies to the city, but it doesn’t start and end here. People continue to celebrate craftsmanship in their own way daily. Perfumers bottle their skill on Burlington Arcade, creating scents to bring treasured memories to life (p.68); renowned florists swap vases for visual art (p.16); and jewellers and watchmakers release their most innovative products yet (p.32).
Hannah Lemon Editor
On the
cover
the mayfair magazine: Dress by Malene Oddershede Bach, £1,095, Fenwicks, Bond Street; photography: Christopher Fenner; Styling: Hannah Teare (p.43) marylebone & fitzrovia magazine: Photographer: Eva Harftmann; Stylist: Natalie Read (P.46)
Also published by
R u n w i ld M ed i a G r o u p
luxurylondon.co.uk A website. A mindset. A lifestyle.
Members of the Professional Publishers Association
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@ may fa i rmaga z i n e @t h eo ffi c i alll
HUGO BOSS UK LTD. Phone +44 (0)20 7554 5700 boss.com
BOSS Stores 122 New Bond Street 178-180 Regent Street
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23.03.18 11:58
regulars
My first job at 16 involved selling jeans at a store on Watford High Street. After working at Huntsman for 17 years, I was used to a clientele of aristocrats, CEOs and those predominantly over 60.
A raincoat for I.M. Pei, the architect who revitalised the Louvre, is one of the most interesting pieces I’ve made. He requested that it reflect the design of the building: it was narrow at the top and wide at the bottom.
Socialite Sir James Cayzer was a regular customer, and every five years he would order 12 pairs of grey flannel trousers. I used the scraps to cut my first suit.
We launched Richard Anderson in 2001 – the first bespoke tailor on Savile Row in 50 years. It was time for us to take the age-old craft forward.
St Albans, Hertfordshire,
five minutes with...
Richard Anderson As a cutter, my aim is to improve the body: make someone look a bit taller and slimmer, to disguise any concerns they have, and to accommodate their quirks.
I’ve released my second book, Making the Cut, which introduces 25 designs that have been adapted for the modern gentleman.
Our bespoke suits start from £5,000 and involve about 80 to 100 man-hours.
It’s vital to encourage new talent. We have four tailors who are in their 20s. I still receive 10 to 20 applications per week.
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The managing director of the eponymous tailoring house has reworked stuffy suits for the 21st century as told to: Hannah LEmon
clockwise from top: richard anderson; st albans; at work in the savile row shop; the louvre; andrew edmunds restaurant; richard anderson on savile row
has been my home for more than 25 years. I’ve lived in my house in Marshalswick for 16 years with my wife Fran and four children.
I grew up in nearby Park Street village. I have fond memories of winning the football league with St Alban’s Primary School.
My parents were hardworking. My father was an engineer, and I always admired his attention to detail – it resonates closely with my role as a tailor.
London’s best-kept secret is Andrew Edmunds restaurant on Lexington Street in Soho. It has been around since 1986 and has a very loyal client base.
If there was a fire in my house, my family would obviously be my priority. Then I’d go back for my watch collection and as many suits as I could carry.
wedgwood.co.uk
WEDGWOOD ® VERA WANG JARDIN
regulars
the course of life
1 GARDEN PARTY A note for the diary: The Residents’ Society of Mayfair & St James’s Summer Garden Party. Expect live music, fine food and plenty of raffle prizes. From £30, 6-9pm, 14 June, Mount Street Gardens, W1K, rsmsj.com
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blooming lovely The RHS Chelsea Flower Show is back, this time with installations aiming to improve health and wellbeing. Keep a look out for The Lemon Tree Trust Garden, designed with the help of Syrian refugees. Day tickets from £51, 22-26 May, rhs.org.uk
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The mayfly hatches in the morning, mates in the afternoon and dies at night: a lot can happen in a day. So says playwright Joe White in his debut Mayfly, directed by Guy Jones, which follows a family in the aftermath of tragedy. From £10, until 26 May, orangetreetheatre.co.uk
to
image credit: Neil Hepworth, image ©rhs
CALLING CARD
A ROYAL AFFAIR Still haven’t received your invitation to His Royal Highness Prince Harry and Meghan Markle’s nuptials? Head instead to the Kids for Kids Royal-themed Ambassadors’ Ball, which falls on the same day and helps raise funds for struggling communities in Darfur. From £105, 19 May, The Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill, kidsforkids.org.uk
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Stationery connoisseur Smythson is celebrating The Connaught Bar’s 10th anniversary by offering guests illustrated cocktail cards with details of each recipe from its new menu, so they can be recreated at home. the-connaught.co.uk
6
Pioneer of the modern kitchen open to life – for 125 years Poggenpohl has 21 points of sale throughout the UK & Ireland ¡ uk@poggenpohl.com For your nearest Poggenpohl Studio please go to www.poggenpohl.com/en/find-a-studio 125years.poggenpohl.com
The
perks
of
being a
wallflower Fanciful flower arranging has been rapidly overtaken by clever, bold botanical displays from London’s top florists. Make way for a new budding romance between plants and art WORDS: HANNAH LEMON
W
hen someone says ‘flower arranging’, what do you think of? The Women’s Institute? Calendar Girls? Damp green foam blocks? It’s time to readjust those preconceptions. From online deliveries of bouquets that can be posted through a letter box to restaurants with meadows dangling from the ceiling, it seems that floristry is going through something of a renaissance. At this time of year, of course, the spotlight on flora is bright with the RHS Chelsea Flower Show, which takes place from 22 to 26 May. A star florist that created one of the most iconic images of the event was Veevers Carter. It was approached by the New Covent Garden Flower Market in 2016 to produce a 360-degree floral art installation themed around London and Her Majesty The Queen’s 90th birthday. “Six months of planning, 35 specialists and 10,000 stems; our gold medal-winning design at RHS Chelsea Flower Show was one of our biggest challenges,” reveals founder Ming Veevers Carter. “The ambition of the design, combined with the logistics of the flower show itself, meant that meticulous planning was required to ensure perfection on the day.”
Veevers Carter has enjoyed more than 30 years of creating floral designs, working with the top names in luxury, Amanda Wakeley among them, as well as for lavish weddings and corporate receptions. But her approach is much more innovative than merely putting a few bluebells in glass jam jars. “Inspired by iconic artists, we create floral designs and installations that celebrate and interpret the great works of art within London’s galleries,” she explains, listing the Tate Modern, V&A, National Gallery and Saatchi Gallery. “We work closely with our set and
spotlight
“Our work increasingly shares more in aesthetics and attitude with sculpture than with traditional floristry”
staging department to create innovative armatures – sculptural skeletons – from which we build our installations. Our work increasingly shares more in aesthetics and attitude with sculpture than with traditional floristry.” This move from vases to visual art has been made by a few others in the industry. Boutique company Kitten Grayson Flowers, founded in 2015, makes sure that every project is approached with flair. “We worked on the most spectacular fairytale wedding at Vaux-le-Vicomte just outside Paris,” says owner Kitten Grayson. “We used hundreds of pale pink silk roses to create an enchanted flower forest with an adorned horse and cart, decorated statues in the grounds and a magnificent dining table surrounded by blossom trees and cascading wisteria. We had a team of 13 florists working flat out for four days – a truly memorable project.” Locations can be unpredictable and challenging. In Greece, Grayson had to use donkeys to take freshly foraged flowers to a hilltop church where the team worked by torch and candlelight; in Somerset she took to the field with landscape architect Piet Oudolf on his perennial meadow at the Hauser & Wirth gallery; while London saw partnerships with Giles Deacon for London Fashion Week and Sotheby’s for its fine art auction. The endless options for creativity require picking the right petals. “In spring, I love using fritillaries,” says Grayson. “They’re so delicate, unique and rather dramatic. In summer, I choose roses, peonies and sweet peas. Instead of using a mass of different flowers, I like to use just one or two at a time to really illuminate the character of each. A peony, for example, really deserves her own space – she’s so attention seeking, a real diva. And I always think sweet peas are like a giggling gaggle of mischievous flirts – such fun.” Are there any flowers to avoid? “I recently did a huge job with cacti that looked amazing but I was taking the prickles out of my hands for days,” she laughs. Unlike canvas or ceramic, a plant’s life is short-lived. However, Grayson tries to make each stem and leaf last as long as possible. “Wherever I can, I try to use
opposite, from top: the veevers carter RHS Chelsea Flower Show 2016 display; the Wedding Gallery installation by kitten grayson flowers this page, clockwise from top left: Wimborne House Launch by Veevers Carter; roof installation for Perrier-Jouët at The Sanderson London by kitten grayson flowers; Wimborne House Launch by Veevers Carter
live plants that can be replanted and often use silk flowers for long-term installations,” comments Grayson. As does Veevers Carter, although she adds that the ephemeral nature of buds and blossoms contributes to the joy of each project: “Like the events we create our floral art for, they are an experience, a moment in time.” This year at RHS Chelsea Flower Show, Kitten Grayson Flowers will be designing an installation at the London Gate to welcome visitors, while Veevers Carter remains tight-lipped about what she will be presenting (“watch this space…”). Whatever it is, you can be sure it will be more impressive than a ribbon-tied bouquet. veeverscarter.com; kittengrayson.com
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GUY interview
SALTER
Joining the army, bartering for Russian hats, working with HRH The Prince of Wales, launching London Craft Week – there isn’t much the ex-director of Asprey and Laurent-Perrier hasn’t tried his hand at. Now he’s predicting the future of luxury...
profile
LU X URY LONDON.CO.UK | 019
I had to go to Sandhurst and choose a regiment. I chose the Welsh Guards because that was my father’s. Suddenly, I was out in Berlin. Even though I was doing a short service commission I was treated like any other young officer and given a platoon of 30 men. I didn’t know what I was doing so I asked my sergeant to run the platoon until he thought I knew enough about it.
There was the Officer Commanding British Military Train as part of the agreement after the war, which was allowed to go from East Berlin into West Germany every day. The officer in charge had to go through various formalities along the way with the equivalent Soviet officer – the great joke was to see if you could get one of those big furry Russian hats. I once marched down the platform with my interpreter, and saluted the other guy and his interpreter. After the formalities I asked, “how much for your hat?”. The answer came back: “Nyet.” I said, “Why not? How much do you want?” “No, no.” “Well, what do you want?” The answer came back: “Pornography.” I said I could have got some if I’d known sooner but it was too late. I never got the hat.
I was born at the Chelsea and Westminster Hospital – which is also where my two sons were born – and live in Kensington.
My parents had a house in Knightsbridge and one in Hampshire. Growing up I always wanted to spend more time in London than in the country – the city’s amazing creativity and diversity fascinated me.
A lot of people have a very transactional relationship with London, but if you know the history behind things you realise how special they are. The Wolseley, for example, was once a car showroom. I never forget that.
My great-grandmother was American. She lived for many years on the top floor of what was then the US embassy on Grosvenor Square. It’s also where my mother came out as a débutante. It’s being developed as Four Seasons residences now.
My first job was with the army when I was 18, before university. I won a rather drunken bet with some friends that I could get through the selection process (although at that stage I wanted to be an actor). Probably because I was so relaxed and didn’t care whether I got it or not, I came through with flying colours.
above: eleanor Lakelin’s workshop at Cockpit Arts, image credit: Alun Callender below: ceramics by Malene Hartmann Rasmussen
I studied history at university, then left for New York to work in the city like my father had. I hated the job. I wanted to do something completely different, which led me to join Arcadia. It was the best possible thing I could have done because, at that time, it was a business that was literally redesigning the high street, coming up with brands like Topshop that we now take for granted. I started as a management trainee doing all kinds of jobs on the shop floor, working my way up to become group marketing director. Along the way, I had a spell working directly for chairman Ralph Hauffman as his executive assistant. That was amazing. At that young age I got an insight into every board meeting, a lot of the unbelievable politics and what a business can do for the local area.
Ralph Hauffman really understood developing retail that focused on the customer. He was a slightly controversial guy and often made headlines, partly because he was the first British chief executive to ever be paid more than £1 million.
profile
In Evans, the plus-size brand, the top selling items were skimpy red lacy bras. It puzzled me
and less interested in logos. Long story short, that’s what has happened.
because from an engineering point of view they weren’t up to the task, but they were still the top sellers. It taught me to challenge any preconceptions of what the customer might want.
Luxury is still a fantastic industry to be in (thank goodness), but remains fragile. I wouldn’t be surprised if some famous names aren’t around in a few years. I have another theory called ‘beyond luxury’, by
Around the time of inner city riots and Margaret Thatcher’s re-election in the early 80s, I decided
which I mean that luxury needs to be redefined as not being about a handful of brands. It should be a much wider spectrum of people doing and making amazing things.
to create Arcadia dinners for cabinet ministers to explain to them what businesses can do in the community. At the beginning it was difficult to get any cabinet minister to join them, but by the end they were queuing up to be asked.
London Craft Week is the first attempt to celebrate this: one city-wide pop-up with 220 events,
It led to my next job with HRH Prince of Wales
where you take brands like Chanel or Rolls-Royce, who are at the top of their game, and put them side by side with unknown, equally talented, smaller brands, young emerging makers and littleknown heritage brands. Along with entertainment, experiences, food, drink and performance, it’s an appreciation for beauty that people don’t normally associate with luxury.
as his first private secretary for industry and commerce. It was meant to be two years but he asked me to stay for four.
While I was there, we started a brand from scratch: Duchy Originals. You absolutely didn’t know if it was going to be a success, but you felt a sense of ‘the time is right’. It was directly related to the royal family; it gave a percentage of the profits back to charities; it was 100 per cent organic and encouraged Duchy of Cornwall farmers to turn organic too.
I’ve been speaking to the Chinese Ministry of Culture in Beijing for years now. It is bringing its own exhibition of Chinese artisans to London. It’s so exciting. Mayfair remains the epicentre of the things we are doing. Dunhill and Purdey are our headline sponsors; their flagships are also in the area.
When I first invested in Monica Vinader, I was sat around a kitchen table with Monica and her sister Gabriella – we didn’t even have a stall. It was a year or more before we opened in South Molton Street. I didn’t know it was going to be such a phenomenal success. It was a simple idea of beautiful jewellery made with real stones but at an accessible price that mean that women could gift themselves.
It is terrifying starting a new business – putting your own money on the line. You have to slightly disengage part of yourself from it otherwise you would just go barmy with the stress and disappointment.
Before the financial crisis, I was very worried about the luxury sector. Brands were moving manufacturing to cheaper locations and cutting corners – all that mattered was the logo. This lead to my theory of the ‘discernment curve’: that the unbelievable growth of global wealth and emerging middle class would result in better educated consumers who were more interested in quality and craftsmanship
London’s creativity, underpinned by that incredible rule of law and decency, means that aside from all the politics, we shouldn’t forget that we are very respected internationally. from top: Phoebe Cummings at TOAST; David Marques at Cockpit Arts all images courtesy of london craft week
I never used to think I was creative at all. Apart from photography, which I’m afraid I’ve given up now. I don’t play the piano or paint. To my surprise, the thing I am good at is seeing things clearly a few years before other people. My problem is trying to explain it.
The future is about building platforms, providing opportunities for businesses to engage with communities around common themes. I’ve heard so much about how brands want to harvest customer data – it’s very one-dimensional. How much more imaginative would it be to create something that people love and feel happy about and engage with of their own accord? London Craft Week, 9-13 May, londoncraftweek.com
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familiar faces The fourth edition of Photo London will bring together more than 100 galleries from 18 countries: from familiar London names such as Hamiltons and White Space, to talent from Iran and Mexico.
Gian Paolo Barbieri, Audrey Hepburn Valentino Roma, 1969, image courtesy of 29 ARTS IN PROGRESS gallery
17-20 May, Somerset House, WC2R, photolondon.org
culture
Cast a critical
eye
it’s your last chance to catch Running Wild at The Arts Club, a group exhibition of paintings from the 80s, criticising everything from the media to the politics of the day. Among the artists on show are Eric Fischl, whose suburban scenes draw from his childhood spent skirting New York’s wealthiest circles. Until 18 May, 40 Dover Street, W1S, theartsclub.co.uk
look lively
Nancy
Nancy Fouts’ dark, often incendiary, sculptures turn everyday objects on their heads: a policeman’s whistle with a forbidding glass eyeball peering out; a pill packet with 14 preserved ladybirds inside; a taxidermied bird pulling the ring of a hand grenade. Less mundane is this pistol covered with rose thorns. Down the Rabbit Hole, until 12 May, Flowers Gallery, 21 Cork Street, W1S, flowersgallery.com
Fou not what it seems s i l l ts p a roves
clockwise, from top left: Eric Fischl, Christian Retreat, 1980, image courtesy of Skarstedt; Jackie Saccoccio, Portrait (Captive), 2015, image ©Jackie Saccoccio, Courtesy of Van Doren Waxter, New York; Mary Heilman, Idriss, 2012, image ©Mary Heilmann, Courtesy of the artist, Hauser & Wirth, Zurich and 303 Gallery, New York; Mark Dziewulski, Essentia 12, 2017; Mark Dziewulski, Essentia 5, 2017; Nancy Fouts, Peacemaker, 2012; Nancy Fouts, Police whistle with eyes, 2011, both images ©Nancy Fouts, Courtesy of Flowers Gallery
ladies first More than 50 female artists are represented in this exciting exhibition that charts how women advanced Abstraction and remain at its forefront
Until 16 June, Victoria Miro, 14 St George Street, W1S, victoria-miro.com
a mixed picture British artist and architect Mark Dziewulski’s new paintings and sculptures sit somewhere between the figurative and abstract – each as mesmerising and beguiling as the last. Layers of Self, Gallery Different, 26 April – 1 May, 14 Percy Street, W1T, gallerydifferent.co.uk
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culture
Sold
£1,209,000 E sti m ate : £ 5 0 0 , 0 0 0 - £ 8 0 0 , 0 0 0
Two Human Beings. The Lonely Ones, Edvard Munch, printed c.1917
Prize
lots Upcoming from left: George Owen, a fine Royal Worcester reticulated vase, 1907, 17.6cm high, factory mark in gold, shape number 871, incised signature ‘G Owen 1907’, image courtesy of Bonhams, bonhams.com; Candida Höfer, Biblioteca de la Real Academia de la Lengua Madrid I, 2000, Image courtesy of Phillips, phillips.com
“This especially vibrant impression of Edvard Munch’s highly coveted woodcut boasts an extraordinary provenance. Originally in the care of the foundation that formed the Munch Museet, this rare and remarkable print was gifted to the descendants of Munch’s dearest friend, Dr Kristian Emil Schreiner, in exchange for one of the artist’s paintings. This lasting token of their friendship was well received at Sotheby’s, realising the highest price ever achieved for an unsigned print by Munch.”– Yessica Marks, head of prints at Sotheby’s
Sold: Edvard Munch, Two Human Beings. The Lonely Ones, printed c.1917, Prints and Multiples, 27 March, Sotheby’s London, image courtesy of Sotheby’s, sothebys.com
Upcoming Es t i m at e : £ 1 4 , 0 0 0 - £18, 000
A fine Royal Worcester reticulated vase, George Owen, 1907 Ceramic artist George Owen joined Royal Worcester in 1859 and perfected a pierced design known as reticulated porcelain. He created the delicate lacelike effect by carving wet clay using a knife dipped in oil. Owen worked alone and only made custom pieces, which makes his creations particularly covetable. This particular vase has a band of unusual design around the middle of its globular body. Fine glass and British ceramics sale, 2 May, bonhams.com
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Upcoming E sti m ate : £20, 000-£30, 000
Biblioteca de la Real Academia de la Lengua Madrid I, Candida Höfer, 2000 Phillips will present 50 lots from 20th and 21st century photographers – including Wim Wenders and Edward Burtynsky – from Michel and Sally Strauss’ collection. Michel Strauss was the head of the impressionist and modern art department at Sotheby’s for 35 years, pioneering new approaches such as themed sales. His love of photography began after he retired in 2000; he visited New York and bought this piece by German photographer Candida Höfer from a Chelsea gallery. Ultimate Photographs day sale, 18 May, phillips.com
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On 7th – 8th June, the gardens of the Honourable Artillery Company, in the heart of the City, will host a selection of the rarest and fastest cars from 1898 to the present day, each an icon of its era. A unique automotive garden party with the perfect combination of concours cars from the UK’s leading private collectors, luxury retailers, fine watches, art, gourmet food and champagne; an occasion of pure indulgence. Hospitality and general enquiries 020 3725 4044
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Past
Across Europe, specialist workshops are keeping ancient and exceptional techniques alive. There is sometimes only one craftsperson practised to perfection – after years of
masters Words: Camilla Apcar
training that makes painstaking processes seem easy. While some are helped by modern technology, it is their individual expertise that helps define ‘luxury’
culture
1
Meissen: Pâte-sur-pâte
Peggy Haug is one of three painters in Meissen’s Saxony factory who are trained in pâte-sur-pâte brushwork, meaning ‘paste on paste’. This process sees the painter use liquid porcelain paste in extremely fine layers to create a threedimensional relief, which can take between two and four weeks to complete. The design is fused while being fired in the kiln, and lent a glassy sheen when it comes out. Delicate and ethereal in its translucency, pâte-sur-pâte works particularly well on a coloured porcelain background. Haug spent three weeks creating this veiled nymph design in a limited edition of 25 in 2016, on a French Louis XVI oviform vase (£19,125). This shape was fashionable in the 18th century, as were the cupids, cherubs and doves pictured on the reverse. Meissen revived the design to celebrate more than 300 years of its porcelain mastery. meissen.com
2
Saint-Louis: Millefiori In 1970, Saint-Louis brought back a glass technique that it had not used for since the 1860s for paperweights. Millefiori (meaning ‘a thousand flowers’) is thought to be a Roman invention, continued by Murano glassmakers during the Renaissance. A bed of minuscule ‘flowers’ are created in crystal (cylinders that reveal a pattern at their ends), which forms the paperweight’s base. To create each flower, molten crystal is blown over tiny pieces of enamel to accentuate its colour, then combined to create a pattern. The molten crystal is then stretched into metres-long thread canes and cut into centimetre portions when solid. When they have been arranged vertically, revealing their patterns within, the crystal for the paperweight dome is blown on top, fusing the floral bed at 1,100°C. If the temperature is too low, the ball shatters; if it is too high, it becomes cloudy. There are just three craftspeople working with the molten crystal and blowtorches, and two in the cold workshop arranging the millefiori. Saint-Louis produces limited edition millefiori paperweights each year, the only maker in the world to do so in crystal. This year, these include a frog with a 24 carat gold crown on a bed of magenta, green and white millefiori flowers (pictured, limited edition of 50, £3,829). saint-louis.com
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Lalique: Lost wax
3
Tim Gosling: Laser-engraved vellum Tim Gosling has been pushing the boundaries of vellum (calfskin) for a decade, working with the last British maker, William Cowley. The British government is one of only a few to still print laws on vellum scrolls, which last forever. The £80,000 cost of this process was the focus of a parliamentary debate in 2016, ending in a decision to use Cowley’s vellum only for the cover of parliamentary bills, and archival paper for inside pages. Although it is far more scratch and stain-resistant in dark colours than leather, the complication of covering furniture in vellum is that it must be done all in one go. A 12-seat dining table would use about a dozen goatskins, which must be skived (joined) by delicately shaving the edges and sliding them over each other to create a flat surface. The skins are then soaked in a solution to make them wrap tightly around a surface, in a heat-regulated room to control the shrinkage speed. The process takes about five months. Gosling’s latest experiment is with laser engraving, using an archival ink to accentuate the laser’s burn, like giant vellum tattoos. For a floor-toceiling panel in a double-height private library (pictured), the image of a Viennese column was superimposed onto 137 panels of hand-wrapped vellum. It took 18 months – the greatest challenge was matching and lining up the individual skins. tgosling.com
Some skills are handed down over centuries; others, millennia. In the 1930s, René image ©Damien Hirst Science Lalique began to use the Ltd and Lalique 2017 ancient Egyptian ‘lost wax’ technique for his most sculptural creations. After creating a model in wax, it is cased in a plaster that can resist high temperatures and is fired in the furnace at 450°C. This melts the wax, allowing molten glass or crystal to be poured into the hollow space left behind. The piece is then fired at 950°C for between five days and five weeks, depending on its size. The plaster mould still resists, but only just. The temperature must be regulated so neither the crystal nor plaster breaks; the craftspeople can never completely control how the piece will come out. After, the plaster is carefully removed to reveal the sculpture inside. Most Lalique designs use iron moulds, in which molten liquid becomes solid almost immediately. Less than five per cent use lost wax, and never in a series of more than 100. The plaster allows intricate sculptural shapes, such as a series of skulls by Damien Hirst (pictured), or 24 bas-relief vases, which cost between £40,000 to £48,000 each. lalique.com
culture
6 5
William & Son: Gun engraving A William & Son gun takes 1,000 hours to make. Among the specialists involved in the manufacturing process is Peter Cusack, a hand engraver based in Wales. Cusack works on around six pieces a year, often to the buyer’s own design, creating lifelike drawings and ornate patterns. Like lino cutting in steel, a 3mm square bar is pushed into the metal like a tiny chisel to remove small amounts at a time, making black lines where the metal is cut away. The challenge with engraving guns is that the steel surface is curved, instead of flat, and not necessarily the same strength all over. The metal could be anywhere between a centimetre or an inch thick. Regardless, Cusack must work to a tenth of a millimetre in accuracy. One of William & Son’s bold signature styles is a punched dark metal background, made by a series of tiny overlapping non-reflective dome-headed punctures. These are made, one at a time, with a tool the size of the ball from a ballpoint pen and the equivalent of a 100g toffee hammer. It can take as long to punch out a background as it does to cut out the shape. Another handy tool? A binocular microscope that zooms to 50x magnification, which Cusack can move around with his head. williamandson.com
Waterford: Crystal cutting
It takes five years to graduate from apprenticeship and another five to become a master crystal cutter at Waterford, during which time hundreds of complicated patterns must be memorised. The master should then be able to cut any design into a vase, bowl or sculpture using just a blank geometric grid drawn on the piece – but once cut, there’s no going back. Among the most common types are wedge cuts, flat and carat (diamondlike). Each notch must not only be in the right place, but made with the right amount of pressure applied to control depth, angle and length. Too much could result in a ruined piece that has to be smashed and sent to be re-melted in the furnace. Master cutter Tom Power is approaching his 50th year at the company. A life-size electric guitar took hours to complete (pictured), demanding physical strength and skill on various sizes of spinning diamond cutting wheels. The asymmetry of a vase or bowl is a challenge that a cutter faces every day, but the guitar’s threedimensional design, with hundreds of cuts required on every side, raised the bar. waterford.co.uk
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Into the Lion’s Den Chanel’s ferocious new High Jewellery collection honours its founder’s favourite animal. Feline motifs are encrusted with diamonds, prowling across rings, chunky chains and watches. L’Esprit du Lion, POA, chanel.com
Legendary transformable necklace in 18ct white and yellow gold, set with more than 1,200 diamonds
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Objects of
Desire Green with envy The craftsmen at Baldi, a Florentine purveyor of artisanal luxuries, have created this ornate perfume box from hand-blown green crystal and 24-carat gold-plated inlays. £15,905, baldihomejewels.com
Je w e l l e ry b o x , £ 1 4 , 5 0 0 , anal e e n a . co m
Bulgari’s Serpenti strikes again, this time in black enamel and glitter with onyx eyes, on a mermaid python bag £2,950, bulgari.com
Keep serving simple in recycled glass and natural cork Cruet Bottle, £12, conranshop.co.uk
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All that glitters Five sparkling jewellery highlights from Baselworld 2018
Millefoglie collection, From £23,400, de Grisogono clockwise From far Left: ICE CUBE BANGLE, £2,980, chopard; My Twin Bracelet, £12,100, messika; GG Running bracelet, £8,090, gucci
1
2
Stack them high
One bejewelled bracelet is good, but three – or four – are better. So was the consensus in Basel this year, where jewellers encouraged stylish stacking in abundance. Highlights include Gucci’s glittering pendants; opulent beads with a bohemian edge by SpanishIndian jeweller Anil Arjandas and Roberto Coin’s Pois Moi collection of diamondencrusted bangles.
Take your sweet time
For watch and jewellery lovers, a trip to Baselworld is like being a child in a candy shop. Fitting, then, that many of this year’s horological treasures are a sweet delight. Harry Winston’s new Premier Winston Candy Automatic is resplendent with 322 saccharine-hued gemstones, complemented by a raspberry strap. Elsewhere, De Grisogono’s Millefoglie collection playfully takes its name from the layered French pastry. Bold compositions of undulating gold and sweeping diamonds inject drama and frivolity into any outfit.
From Left: Pois Moi bangles, POA, roberto coin; Rose Gold Pack, £7,840, Anil Arjandas Premier Winston Candy Automatic 31mm, POA, Harry Winston
collection FROM TOP: pRECIOUS EARRINGS, pOA, Chopard; HAPPY HEARTS RING, £9,710, CHOPARD; Fine Jewellery Collection, POA, Atelier Swarovski
clockwise From left: Dragonfly brooch, POA, graff; Diamond Braid Necklace, poa, messika; Pearl ring, £7,500, yoko london
4 3
Sustainable sparklers
Hello Yellow
For a sartorial dose of sunshine, reach for citrines, sapphires and honey-hued diamonds. Valérie Messika debuted a dazzling yellow diamond necklace, inspired by a collection of pieces found in her father’s jewellery box. The astonishing design took 282 hours to create and each vivid yellow stone is framed in flowing, micro-set diamonds. Graff showcased a fluttering dragonfly bedecked with glowing yellow stones, while YOKO London’s golden South Sea pearl rings offer a contemporary, uplifting alternative to the traditional twin set.
Chopard announced at Baselworld that from July, it will be the first jeweller to use 100 per cent Fairmined gold. The Swiss watch and jewellery house has been making a conscious commitment to ethical luxury since 2013, when it debuted its first ethical collection in partnership with Livia Firth. This new development is a momentous achievement and one certain to shake up the industry. Atelier Swarovski also continues to put sustainability in the spotlight with its first Fairtrade Gold collection. Dazzling designs are adorned with lab-grown precious stones, which are an eco-conscious alternative to naturally occurring diamonds.
5
Diva’s Dream High Jewellery Watches, POA, bulgari
Ticking Treasures
Bulgari celebrated a centenary of watchmaking with a dazzling selection of gem-coated timepieces. The new Diva’s Dream high jewellery collection marries technical brilliance with exquisite craftsmanship, infused with irresistible Italian glamour.
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josÉphine aigrette impÉriale ring in platinum, set with diamonds and a pear-shaped sapphire, POA; josÉphine aigrette solitaire in platinum, set with brilliant-cut diamonds and a pear-shaped diamond, poa, both chaumet
collection
royal The
effect
With a royal wedding approaching, seek out the sparklers good enough for sovereignty W o r d s : R a c h a e l Tay l o r
W
hen it comes to announcements, they don’t get bigger than a royal engagement. An outright frenzy erupted when His Royal Highness Prince Harry got down on one knee to Meghan Markle; a promise that will be fulfilled in May. But for some, the impact of that excitement will last a lifetime as brides-to-be, whipped up in dreams of being princesses, choose lookalike engagement rings. “We probably get more enquiries about that than anything else,” says Garrard senior marketing executive, Madeleine David, referring to what is perhaps the world’s most famous engagement ring – the Ceylon blue sapphire and diamond cluster worn by The Duchess of Cambridge. The ring was originally made by Garrard for His Royal Highness Prince Charles to present to Princess Diana when he proposed in 1981, passing down the family line to Kate Middleton when His Royal Highness Prince William popped the question, but David says that the origins of the design go much further back. “People come in and ask for the Kate ring, but we say that we don’t do the exact thing, it’s just the most modern interpretation. It was chosen by Charles and Diana but it’s a classic Garrard design that started when Prince Albert worked with Garrard to commission the sapphire cluster brooch that he gave to Queen Victoria on the day before her wedding day as her something blue. So it’s not Kate’s ring or Diana’s ring, it’s actually Victoria’s brooch.” Regardless of its history – though this only ups the fever pitch for buyers, says David – the ring sparked global interest both times it was slipped on a royal-to-be finger. Jewellers working in the 1980s recall a boom in sales of sapphire cluster rings; repeated in 2010 with Kate and William’s engagement.
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create your own engagement ring with the crown your love service at chaumet; below: Diamond Trilogy Set, POA, BUCHERER FINE JEWELLERY; simply tacori ring, $4,990, tacori
Just six months after Clarence House confirmed the engagement that would change what a new generation considered acceptable as a ring, the Centre for Retail Research estimated that the market for replica Kate rings was worth £10 million. And it wasn’t just the upper crust that was suddenly romanced by sapphire clusters. Sales of sapphire rings at high street jeweller H. Samuel rocketed 55 per cent on the week of the engagement. Clogau Gold, a brand that uses the same Welsh gold as all royal wedding rings are made from, took to shopping channel QVC with replicas. “The brief from the buyers was very clear – everyone wanted to replicate the exact style,” says Sonia Menezes, Clogau’s head of brand development. A novelty jewellery charm fashioned in the same style as the sapphire ring remains one of Clogau Gold’s best sellers in the Historic Royal Palaces stores at locations like the Tower of London and Kensington Palace. It is particularly popular with tourists from the US, China and Japan. “The British royals made coloured engagement rings acceptable,” says Eddie LeVian, chief executive of diamond jeweller Le Vian, which is planning to release a collection of engagement rings to coincide with this year’s royal wedding. Markle’s own ring was made by Westminster jeweller Cleave & Company, which has since vowed never to make a replica in anticipation of the copycat commission requests that must surely have flooded in. Markle’s ring is a classic design, with a large central diamond flanked by two smaller stones, set in yellow gold. However, this simple construction
It is estimated that the market for replica Kate rings is worth £10 million
collection
FROM TOP: bespoke ring, poa, clogau gold; Couture Ring Featuring Cornflower Ceylon Sapphire and Vanilla Diamonds, POA, le vian; OVAL SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND CLUSTER RING, POA; 18ct white gold ring, £9,000, both ntinga; WHITE BAGUETTE CUT DIAMOND RING, £4,995, ORTaeA
belies a deeply personal story. The two smaller diamonds were lifted from a tiara belonging to Prince Harry’s mother – “to make sure that she’s with us on this crazy journey” as the Prince sweetly described it – while the central stone was sourced by him from a diamond mine in Botswana. Prince Harry also worked with Cleave & Company on the final design. “Meghan’s ring is a beautiful love story in itself,” says Mita Vohra, creative director of fine jewellery brand Ortaea, which carries similar styles. “The depth and thought in it will, I believe, trigger a more meaningful bespoke order trend for us, as well as a trend for three-stone mixed-cut rings.” As well as those now classic blue sapphires, Le Vian will include trilogy diamond rings in honour of Markle (with three stones symbolising past, present and future), and rings set with Padparadscha sapphires, the soft pinkish stone now resting on the third finger of Princess Eugenie’s left hand. Bucherer Fine Jewellery, a Swiss jeweller that recently opened a boutique in Selfridges’ Wonder Room, is also maximising on the hype. Its set of trilogy engagement rings tweak the design by changing the central stone for alternative diamond cuts like pears, emeralds and round brilliants. Prince Harry’s bespoke approach will inevitably have an impact on prospective fiancés, perhaps encouraging more to get involved in the design process rather than just buying off the shelf. This is something jewellers like Vashi, whose Mayfair shop has windows decorated with slogans such as ‘I made this for you’, is counting on. Round the corner on New Bond Street, Chaumet is rolling out a new bespoke engagement ring concept called Crown Your Love to coincide with the wedding. Its aim is to eradicate surprise proposals – and sinking hearts on the opening of boxes – in favour of a collaborative experience. The process will involve couples first choosing a style of engagement ring, then a cut of diamond for the central stone and its carat weight. The rings will be made to order especially for the couple; though should a proposer feel confident in their abilities, this could also be a fun solo shopping trip. Of course it’s not just engagement rings that are obsessed over during a royal engagement and wedding – everything is scrutinised. The pair of yellow gold and opal stud earrings worn by Markle during the announcement and made by Canadian jeweller Birks, which is sold at Mappin & Webb and Goldsmiths, sold out within hours. Traffic to the earrings section of Birks’ website quadrupled that day. There was a similar frenzy to own the Links of London white topaz earrings worn by The Duchess of Cambridge for her official engagement photo in 2010. As to why we remain so obsessed with royals and their jewels, despite a wealth of more accessible celebrities ready to flash their engagement rings on Instagram, the truth might be that there remains a lingering princess dream locked deep within some of us. Which is probably why the most popular item among brides-to-be at Garrard, after the sapphire ring, is a sparkling diamond tiara.
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Best of
Baselworld 2018
Statement-making colourways and a swathe of cross-industry collaborations are a sign of the times at the world’s largest watch fair words: richard brown
Aquanaut Chronograph £33,510, Patek Philippe
LOW RES
Proving that even the most classical of traditional Swiss watchmakers can no longer ignore the consumer reach of social media, Patek Philippe finally launched an Instagram account two days before Baselworld 2018 opened its doors. Further proof that the brand of the Calatrava cross has millennials in its crosshairs came in the shape of the sporty, stainless steel Aquanaut Chronograph – complete with statement-making orange accents on its second hand, chronograph hand, and inner and outer railway track counters. Having celebrated its 20th anniversary last year, the Aquanaut is Patek Philippe’s most athletic collection, befitting of its first flyback chronograph addition – presented as a 60-minute counter at six o’clock. Behind a grey dial with applied gold, luminescent-coated numerals, a 42.2mm case houses a self-winding movement visible through a sapphire-crystal case back that is accurate to -3/+2 seconds per day (as required by the Patek Philippe seal). The Aquanaut Chronograph is water resistant to 120m and available with either a classic black composite rubber strap, or a vivid, dial-matching orange rubber strap. patek.com
Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic, POA, Bulgari Just three months after losing its crown to Piaget, Bulgari has reinstated itself as King of the Ultra-thins. The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic becomes the world’s slimmest self-winding watch with a case that’s just 3.95mm thick – beating Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Automatic by 0.35mm. Incredibly, the tourbillon-regulated movement inside measures just 1.95mm in depth and endows the watch with a 52-hour power reserve. The calibre is housed in a sandblasted, multifaceted titanium case and is visible through an exhibition window in the case-back. bulgari.com
collection Defy El Primero 21 Swizz Beatz £12,800, Zenith At the start of last year Zenith was a watchmaker facing an identity crisis. Stagnating sales and a lack of clear direction led to the exit of CEO Aldo Magada ‘by mutual agreement’. Three months later, long-serving Vacheron Constantin managing director Julien Tornare had been appointed as Magada’s successor. Clearly an advocate of cross-industry collaborations, Tornare has since signed an agreement with British watch-modifier George Bamford, partnered with prestigious cigar manufacturer Cohiba, and announced American hip-hop producer Swizz Beatz as an ambassador. The latter of those lifestyle tie-ins has yielded three special editions of Zenith’s Defy timepiece, the highlight being this 1/100th of a second chronograph. In case its orange strap is a little too quiet for your taste, it also comes pebbledashed with diamonds. zenith-watches.com
Big Bang Sapphire Tourbillon £122,000, Hublot
After diamond, sapphire is the hardest material around and, thus, one of the most difficult to mill. Breaking through a glass ceiling then – sorry, terrible pun – Hublot has managed to machine not just a watch case but a bezel, bridges and a case-back out of the ultra-resistant material. Even the tourbillon within the Big Bang Sapphire Tourbillon is held in place by a strip of the synthetic gemstone. Only 99 of the 45mm models are being manufactured. hublot.com
R.S.18 Chronograph £16,900, Bell & Ross Sticking steadfast to its signature, squarefaced, cockpit-clock-for-your-wrist designs, Bell & Ross’s rapid rise through the horologic ranks has been nothing short of meteoric. The company only became an independent watchmaker in 2002. To celebrate its third year of partnership with Renault Sport Formula One Team, the brand has realised the R.S.18, an automatic, water-resistant skeletonised chronograph with a tachymeter scale and yellow rubber inserts. A 45mm quadrangle case means that big wrists are a prerequisite. bellross.com
Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8 £7,200, Omega In 1968, one year before Buzz Aldrin’s Omega Speedmaster became the first watch on the moon – Neil Armstrong had left his model inside the Lunar Module – the crew of Apollo 8 became the first humans to leave the Earth’s mesosphere and orbit the moon. To mark the mission’s 50th anniversary, Omega presents the skeletonised Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8. Produced in black ceramic, minuscule craters have been lasered into the model’s movement to mimic a pockmarked lunar landscape. Around a transparent case-back, the words ‘We’ll see you on the other side’ have been inscribed – a reference to Jim Lovell’s final words to ground control before Apollo 8’s takeoff. omegawatches.com
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I
n 2014, Rolex created the world’s first two-tone ceramic bezel – one half red for daylight hours, one half blue for night-time – and placed it on its GMT-Master II, mirroring the ‘Pepsi’ bezel of the original GMT Master from the 1950s. Anyone wanting access to this piece of Rolex history, however, would have to pay for it. The company chose to reintroduce the colourway on a timepiece made of white gold, and proceeded to slap a £28,150 price tag on it. So it will come as welcome news to Rolex fans that the company has now made a version in steel, with a far more accessible asking price of £6,800. It features Rolex’s brand new calibre 3285 movement – incorporating a nickelphosphorus, Rolex-patented escapement – and the same ceramic two-tone bezel from 2014. In the flesh, the ‘red’ of the new GMT-Master II is more mauve than previous Pepsi models, where bezels were made of steel – perhaps that’s owing to the fact that ceramic is such a difficult material to produce in lighter colours. Rolex, when questioned, insisted that it had created exactly the colour it was aiming for. Sister brand Tudor is far more accurate when it describes the colours on the steel bezel of its own new Black Bay GMT as
rolex gmtmaster ii, £6,800
Time in
TUDOR BLACK BAY GMT, £2,790
TWO TONE
SEIKO REFERENCE SRPB99J1, £429
blue and burgundy (not red). The 41mm model is equipped with a brand new in-house movement. Additional time zones are indicated by a red snowflake hand, Tudor’s hallmark, which spins around the dial every 24 hours. PADI partner Seiko used Baselworld to announce ocean explorer and marine conservationist Fabien Cousteau (grandson of Jacques Cousteau) as its new ambassador. The Japanese brand – inventor of the first hi-beat diver’s watch and first quartz saturation diver’s timepiece – also presented six new Prospex watches. The part of the bezel representing 0-15 minutes on the reference SRPB99J1 is coloured red, allowing divers to time their decompression stops as they make their way back to the surface – preventing decompression sickness, or as diver’s call it, the ‘bends’. Elsewhere, TAG Heuer has added a GMT function to its in-house Heuer 02 self-winding chronograph movement. A second time zone can be adjusted via the crown and is readable using a lacquered red hand and a black-and-blue ceramic bezel, which has a 24-hour GMT scale. The new 45mm steel model adopts the design codes of the original Heuer Carrera from 1963, with its chronograph minutes and hours set at three and nine o’clock, and a permanent small second at six o’clock.
TAG HEUER CARRERA CHRONOGRAPH GMT, £4,900
collection Autobahn
Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique
£3,800, NOMOS Glashütte
£110,600, Breguet
The brand new, multileveled, Bauhaus-informed Autobahn from the (typically) minimalist NOMOS Glashütte was created in collaboration with German product designer Werner Aisslinger. It is powered by a proprietary escapement and features a three-lane date window at six o’clock and glow-in-the-dark dial. The 41mm timepiece is available in three versions: one with a white silver-plated dial (pictured), a sporty grey version, and a model in deep midnight blue. Funny how you can never imagine an English watchmaker naming a creation after the motorway, such is the German pride for its fêted highways. nomos-glashuette.com
OK, so it’s not a record breaker. At 3mm thick, the automatic tourbillon movement inside Breguet’s Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique is a full 1.05mm fatter than the escapement that powers Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic – the slimmest automatic tourbillon in watchmaking. Yet if prizes were handed out for elegance, then Breguet’s latest ultra-thin would surely be triumphant. An extremely understated enamel dial directs attention to an exposed tourbillon at five o’clock. Inside, a ‘highenergy’ barrel, patented to increase the number of coils of its silicon balance spring, provides an 80-hour power reserve. A hand-engraved platinum oscillating weight rotates on the periphery of the calibre, providing an unobstructed view of the tourbillon. The 7.45mm-deep dress watch is offered in rose gold and platinum. breguet.com
Bubble Central Tourbillon £67,100, Corum
Senator Cosmopolite £16,100, Glashütte Original
The first tourbillon within Corum’s playful Bubble collection is noteworthy for two reasons. Firstly, the tourbillon is positioned at the centre of the watch, a technical feat requiring an inline movement construction. Secondly, rather than conventional hands, time is displayed by two triangular markers at the edge of the dial: one in black that indicates the minutes; one in blue indicating the hours. Seconds are displayed by the tourbillon itself, which performs one rotation every minute. It’s an extremely solid piece of kit and completely captivating on the wrist. corum-watches.com
The source of Germany’s most handsome dress watches, Glashütte Original launched a stainless steel version of a world timer that debuted in 2015. Simultaneously indicating the time in two time zones, the Minimalist World Traveller takes into account daylight saving and standard times in 36 zones, colour-coded to indicate their deviation from GMT (including half and three-quarter hour differences). The lacquered silvergrained dial on this latest glossy version is circled by a black railroad chapter ring and sub-dials, and blue hands and numerals. An innovative off-centre oscillating rotor makes for a longer-than-average 72-hour power reserve. glashuette-original.com
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domestic goddess Inspired by bored housewives in suburban settings, Christopher Kane marries elegance and kitsch for S/S18. Love it or loathe it, this vinyl coat deserves to be worn outside the house.
image credit: Alasdair McLellan, courtesy of christopher kane
ÂŁ2,095, christopherkane.com
fashion
Time to
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5, D’Estrëe £15 x
£830, the vampire’s wife, libertylondon.com
£306, cult gaia, theshopatbluebird.com
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£980, isabel marant, boutique1.com
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Flower baskets
Parisian bra Two
all image credits: Christopher Fenner
FLORALS FOR SPRING may not be original – at least not according to Meryl Streep’s character in The Devil Wears Prada – but Malene Oddershede Bach’s new collection is far from the typical floaty, boho look. Take a leaf out of the Danish-born designer’s book with detailed brocades styled into form-fitting gowns. From £1,000, fenwick.co.uk
£495, loewe.com
palm it off Leaving on a jet plane? The Michael Kors collection for spring and summer aims to take you seamlessly from the concrete jungle to your chosen paradise. Structured dresses feature hand-dyed pastel palm prints, while a monochrome palette lends an edge to romantic frills. From £340,michaelkors.co.uk
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Testing the
water
Make a splash with Delpozo’s S/S18 collection, inspired by snapshots of swimming pools Words: Anna Thornhill
I
t’s not unusual for designers to mine their ideas from all over. Entire collections have been inspired by the curve of a building or the colour of a shimmering desert sunset. Delpozo creative director Josep Font finds that admiring art usually does the trick. When compiling the moodboard for the S/S18 collection, Font stumbled across the work of Slovakian photographer Mária Švarbová. Her depictions of pools provided the starting point for a series of Delpozo ensembles that play with proportion and pigment: think cascading layers of lemon yellow tulle, frothy sea-green ruffled capes and statement raffia headpieces. “I discovered Mária’s Swimming Pool series through Instagram and became fascinated by it,” Font explains. “The delicate use of light, the subtle colour hues, the surreal aura that surrounds each piece: I was hooked.”
fashion clockwise from far left: delpozo s/s18 fitting with josep font, image credit: javier biosca; zlatÉ moravce; ŠAMORÍN, BOTH MÁRIA ŠVARBOVÁ; delpozo s/s18 moodboard; s/s18 sketches; the latest delpozo collection
The orange and red shades of the swimwear in Švarbová’s work inspired the oversize paisley print, while the greens and blues of the swimming pool were turned into chiffon trousers and poplin shirts, as well as a geometric print that mimics the pools’ tiles. The composition and colour palette of Švarbová’s creations convey a vintage yet hyperreal feel. “The inspiration for the series came from the rather stark architecture of my local swimming pool in Bratislava,” she says. “The building is 80 years old and dates back to a time when swimming was more of a social duty that a sport, which is perhaps why pools from that era are such sterile spaces: all white tiles and ‘no diving’ signs. Nevertheless I was struck by the architecture, the many lines and the calmness of the water with its mirror-like reflections.” Ten photographs from the Swimming Pool series will be on show in the Delpozo store during London Craft Week, when the brand’s renowned embroiderers will showcase the techniques they have painstakingly applied to the S/S18 collection. Švarbová will also be taking part in a talk with Tank magazine founder Caroline Issa to discuss the relationship between art, fashion and craftsmanship – the core design tenets of the Delpozo brand. “Fashion is in love with art like never before,” says Švarbová. “Both fashion and art tell a lot about who we are or what we want to be, because they are a reflection of our personalities; they convey how we see life. I’m inspired by the way the two influence each other and how they collide.” Font is similarly interested in fashion and art collaborations, expecially when craftsmanship is involved. “Craftsmanship is art; art is usually handcrafted and fashion has elements of both disciplines,” he says. “For me, craftsmanship means paying attention to every detail and using delicate hand-made techniques to create beautiful art. Ten or 15 years ago some crafts were in danger of being lost, but now craftsmanship is having a comeback moment. Young people are taking up the mantle.” Mária Švarbová will be in conversation with Carolina Issa on 9 May at 7pm; an exhibition of Švarbová’s photographs will be on display in-store throughout London Craft Week, 9-13 May, 134 Sloane Street, SW1X, delpozo.com
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Dress, ÂŁ2,790, Erdem, mytheresa.com; Necklace, ÂŁ240, pebble london, pebblelondon.com
Darling
of buds
May
Spring fashion is in full bloom with floral prints and structured silhouettes Photographer Eva Haftmann Stylist Natalie Read
THIS PAGE Dress, £865, merchant archive, merchantarchive.com; Boots, £1,330, Cushnie et Ochs, cushnieetochs.com; Earrings, £170 each, Marni, marni.com; Belt, stylist’s own OPPOSITE PAGE Top, £1,090 and Skirt, £405, both Edeline Lee, edelinelee.com; Jacket, £3,395, roland mouret, rolandmouret.com; Necklace, £180 and Ring, £240, both pebble london, pebblelondon.com
Dress, £1,100, Paul Costelloe, paulcostelloe.com; Shoes, £710, erdem, erdem.com; Ring, £220, pebble london, pebblelondon.com
THIS PAGE Dress, £5,065, michael kors, michaelkors.co.uk; Shoes, £1,295, charlotte olympia, charlotteolympia.com; Earrings, £310, Ranjana Khan, ranjanakhan.com OPPOSITE PAGE Top, £1,200, david koma, selfridges.com; Skirt, £585, Stella McCartney, brownsfashion.com Model Esme at The Hive Management Hair Alex Price at Frank agency using KÉrastase Make-up Rebecca Rojas using NARS Cosmetics Flowers rebelrebel.co.uk location Beach Blanket Babylon, Notting Hill, beachblanket.co.uk
Cruz Bueno Couture London’s best kept secret
M
aison Cruz Bueno Couture. A name on the lips of the world’s most sophisticated women. It is the surname, too, of the founder and lead couturier, Lucas Cruz Bueno, a man of intuition and rare passion, a créateur who listens to his clients like no other, who interprets their desires and captures their essence in clothing. Lucas danced for 13 years and has a degree in performing arts. Through this intimate understanding of the body and how it moves, he has married a unique talent for fashion, which he first displayed in the designs of costumes for local dance companies. This led him to being commissioned to design and make special occasion dresses that proved an instant sensation on social media. It launched him on a meteoric rise and his creations are now increasingly being worn by an exclusive collection of international private clients.
The celebration of craftsmanship
Cruz Bueno is a million miles away from the world of fast fashion and throwaway mass-market manufacturing. It makes limited-edition, timeless designs that you will not see on anybody else. They are exceptional not just in their rarity, but in their quality. For Lucas, handmade really means handmade. Each Cruz Bueno piece and accessory is created in the London atelier by highly skilled artisans using the finest fabrics and materials, and time-honoured principles of garment making. Lucas works with a myriad of materials, finding harmony between colours and textures resulting in a visual and tactile experience.
promotion
“My purpose is to design beautiful garments to embrace each and every client; to celebrate their uniqueness. This is my ‘Savile Row’ approach for women” – Lucas Cruz Bueno The bespoke experience
These handcrafted pieces celebrate each individual, accentuate their finest features and iron out those tiny imperfections that only they can see. By appointment only, Cruz Bueno offers a uniquely personal approach to luxury couture, one that seeks an intimate understanding of each and every client, building a relationship that lasts based on a holistic vision of who they are and the life they lead. The result of this bond: handcrafted garments designed by Lucas, not just to fit a silhouette but to express an individual’s inner self. Clothing ranges from the spectacular to the sublimely understated but is always comfortable and never made in standard sizes – because everyone is unique.
An atmosphere of trust
In a luxurious showroom on Old Bond Street, Lucas brings not just his design expertise and personal empathy but a fresh look and a creative inventiveness to every meeting. He ensures that personal taste and style are respected but also transcended. In an ambiance of trust and collaborative creativity, what emerges – usually after at least three fittings – is a masterpiece of cuttingedge, modern and sophisticated design unlike anything you will have worn before.
The Cruz Bueno woman
She is elegant and sophisticated and wants to feel empowered, more beautiful, sexier and stronger. She seeks quality instead of quantity and dresses with a purpose. Appointments: info@cruzbueno.com, @cruzbueno_official, cruzbueno.com
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London’s only jet-set lifestyle event
11TH - 12TH MAY 2018 WYCOMBE AIR PARK BUCKINGHAMSHIRE
Shooting and Country Show
Explore a combined world of lifestyle brands and experiences 150 Lifestyle brands . 30 Unique experiences . 1 Exclusive location
www.theeliteevents.com
fashion
True
Menswear doesn’t come more British than at New & Lingwood. A bastion of style, the 153-year-old outfitter is still the go-to for Etonians, Royal family members and discerning gents alike. Its latest line of sharp tailoring includes Prince of Wales checks, Henley boating stripes and dogstooth prints – available in both linen cloths and weightier wools for those unpredictable summer days. Suits from £995, newandlingwood.com
Brit
Fair cop
Sorry Sherlock, but few detectives have been as dapper as Miami Vice’s Sonny and Rico. Channel their look with Cerruti’s new collection, inspired by the show’s original costumes (created by founder Nino Cerruti, no less).
K nit wits
From £700, cerruti.com
passage to india Taking cues from traditional Indian flower markets, Jo Malone’s new Cologne Intense comprises sumptuous notes of jasmine sambac, marigold and benzoin. From £75 for 50ml, jomalone.co.uk
You won’t find fast fashion at Slowear. Pop into its King’s Road store for accessories designed to last a lifetime – including these charming wool ties. £90 each, slowear.com
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off the shelf Keep kitchen essentials in easy reach with a customisable b Solitaire shelving unit – one of many sleek storage solutions available at Bulthaup’s newly refurbished showroom. 37 Wigmore Street, W1U, bulthaup.com
interiors
A design
for life
ANTIQUES DEALER LORFORDS began making upholstery in 2015 when chef Marco Pierre White commissioned the company to create bespoke pieces for one of his ventures in Singapore. It now offers entirely handmade sofas, armchairs, loveseats and ottomans that can be covered with in-house artisanal fabrics, or a textile of your choice. Mayfair sofa, from £8,100, 9 Langton Street, SW10, lorfords.com
ewellery ches j r e h t eat l Store s i treasures in th Visit online craft retailer The Garnered to find ornate leather creations designed in Spain Nomadic jewellery chest, £1,250, thegarnered.com
Gold Plated No two pieces of Alchemy – the new hand-painted collection from De Gournay – are the same. Envisioned by American interior designer Jeffrey Bilhuber, the motifs take inspiration from Dutch still life flower paintings and precious Chinese Imperial porcelain. From €40,000 for a 35-piece service, degournay.com
Bronze age New furniture and lighting pieces by Paul Mathieu go on display at Willer in Kensington. Highlights include a wall sconce with a Murano glass shade (pictured), part of the designer’s hand-cast bronze Aria range. Until 13 June, 12-14 Holland Street, W8, willer.co.uk
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“THE FRENCH TOUCH IN INTERIOR DESIGN”
Email: e.s@emmanuellesirven.com Tel: +44 (0)7748 098 578
www.emmanuellesirven.com
this image and right: beosound shape speaker system; below, right: beovision eclipse tv
promotion
All about that
bass
Never miss a beat with state-of-the-art speakers and integrated home entertainment systems from Bang & Olufsen
A
decent playlist can make or break a morning commute. Let’s face it, the 8am inferno that is the Central Line is marginally more bearable with a little Bach/Beyoncé/Bruce Springsteen (delete as appropriate) on loop. Following that logic, a pair of noise-cancelling headphones is essential armour for rush hour. But no matter whether you’re battling it out for a seat on the Tube, or retreating to the sofa after a long day at the office, turning up the volume on your favourite track is an effective means of escapism, so a fuzzy speaker just won’t cut it. Compromising on sound quality has never been an option at Bang & Olufsen. Its innovative sound solutions are off the wall – quite literally, in the case of the BeoSound Shape (pictured, above). This wall-mounted wireless speaker system can be comprised of as many as 44 individual speakers, to deliver immersive concert-hall level acoustics. The clusters of hexagon-shaped tiles resemble sculptures and can be tailored to work in any space. In fact, most of Bang & Olufsen’s speakers masquerade as decorative objects: from the streamlined aluminium
BeoSound 2, which offers stunning 360-degree sound performance, to the striking dish design of the BeoPlay A9 – a sleek black orb perched on oak, maple or walnut legs. Not only does it integrate streaming services with ease, it’s incredibly responsive: swipe your hand across the top to adjust the volume, or rest a hand on the top sensor to mute the sound. As an added bonus, Bang & Olufsen’s speakers don’t only work in isolation but can be looped up. All it takes is a single tap for a device to automatically join a multiroom stream, which can be controlled via the Bang & Olufsen app. This means you can play different music in different rooms, or have the same track follow you around every room in the house. It’s not just wireless speakers and sound systems that can be configured in the multiroom system. BeoVision TVs, including the latest BeoVision Eclipse, which boasts pixelperfect OLED screen technology and immersive sound from the integrated centre speaker, can also join in. But why stop there? Bring your home well and truly into the 21st century with the BeoLink Smarthome, a versatile integration system that enables all Bang & Olufsen technology to work together and seamlessly interact with other systems via the BeoLink app. This means that as soon as you step through your door, the lights can be programmed to switch on and the curtains to close, while your favourite soundtrack starts up and the thermostat automatically adjusts to your preferred temperature. Tune in, turn up and zone out. We’re all ears…
Bang & Olufsen in Harrods, available on Technology, Third Floor, 87-135 Brompton Road, SW1X, 020 7225 6605
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Heart of glass Czech glass is the stuff of legends. Moser, one of the world’s finest glassmakers, still creates crystal where its story began, in a town fit for a fairytale words: marianne dick
interiors
K
on reflection
arlovy Vary is nestled in a forested valley in the west of the Czech Republic, around two hours’ drive from the capital city, Prague. When I approach the town, it feels like I have chanced upon a film set. Ornate pastel-hued buildings are clustered around the point where two rivers – the Teplá and the Ohre – meet. An area of geographical interest, the town has a number of thermal springs that are rich in minerals, and said to heal various ailments. Many hotels in the area offer spa retreats, and the locals can be seen chatting and sipping from spouted cups while huddled by the fountains dotted around the town centre. But the most famous export of this historical region, once known as Bohemia, is its glass and crystal. The trade originated because the area had an abundance of the materials needed in the manufacturing process: flint, limestone, plenty of wood for firing the furnace and making potash (salts, one of the key ingredients), plus streams and rivers to provide the energy to power machinery. The difference between crystal and glass is that the former has lead in it. However, in Bohemia a lead-free recipe was developed that had a durability and quality comparable to the finest crystal elsewhere. The Bohemian glass could be cut, shaped and engraved – thus it was bestowed the title of crystal. The story of Bohemia’s leading maker began in 1857, when Ludwig Moser founded an engraving workshop and sales gallery in Karlovy Vary. In 1873, Moser became the court supplier to Emperor Franz Joseph I, who granted him a privilege for his exceptional embellishment – specifically ‘a particular way of decoration with opaque, raised enamel paints and gold’. In 1893, Moser glassworks opened near the town centre, allowing a great expansion of both production and creativity. The addition of Moser’s son, Leo, to the business at the beginning of the 20th century propelled the brand to become one of the most prestigious and
image ©Martin Prokes
1857
1878
1893
1900
Glass engraver Ludwig Moser (1833-1916) founds an engraving workshop and sales gallery in Karlovy Vary
Emperor Franz Joseph I grants Moser, his court supplier since 1873, a privilege for glass decoration
Ludwig Moser opens a glasswork factory in the Kalovy Vary region: famous for glass, porcelain and herb liqueur Becherovka
Moser presents a new technique, ‘eckentiefgravur’, in which plant motifs are deeply engraved into crystal vases
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the story of colours
pioneering glassworks in the world. He introduced innovative coloured glass made from secret formulae of precious soils and metal oxides, producing a spectrum of shades unique to Moser. The six key tones are beryl (blue-green), eldor (citrus yellow), rosalin (rose), alexandrite (light violet), topaz (honey) and aquamarine (deep blue) – still the company’s signature palette today. This glassware has graced many royal weddings, and has even been to the Vatican: the seminal Pope collection was presented to Pope Pius XI by Leo Moser himself in 1923. The glassworks remain at the original site and pieces continue to be made entirely by hand using time-tested methods – it’s one of the last places in the world to do so. Visitors can embark on a tour of the factory, which takes between two and four hours, to witness first-hand the skills that go into the craft, from design to the finished product.
DESIGN
on reflection
In Moser’s latest collection, two new vases are introduced that blend two shades of coloured glass: Caorle (pictured above right), designed by Lukáš Jaburek, and Purity (pictured above left), from Studio Moser. Caorle, £525, Purity, £1,245, available at Thomas Goode, 19 South Audley Street, W1K
When Leo Moser took on the role of artistic director, the company moved to the forefront of inventive crystal design. While nurturing traditional sets such as the Splendid collection, contemporary and up-andcoming designers were encouraged to create pieces of art using Moser’s inimitable glass and characteristic colours. The same value is placed on design today, a century on, with Lukáš Jaburek at the helm as artistic director. Jaburek – who previously spent time at Saint Louis in France and Waterford in Ireland – leads a dedicated creative development department, Studio Moser, where external designers are welcomed to make special projects, one-off objets d’art and commissions that employ modern decorative techniques. These include trophies for all kinds of industries, from chess image ©Martin Prokes to sumo wrestling.
1908
1911
1923
1940
1975
Moser becomes court supplier to King Edward VII of England. Ludwig’s son, Leo, starts to develop coloured glass
Under the leadership of Leo Moser, the Splendid collection is launched. It remains the brand’s most popular set today, and features an embossed gilded band of oroplastic
Leo Moser presents the Pope collection to Pope Pius XI at the Vatican
Moser is awarded the Grand Prix at the VII Triennial in Milan, due in part to vases by Wolfgang von Wersin
Wider cultural trends influence modern designs such as Surf and Moon (pictured)
interiors
SHAPING Production of the crystal pieces begins in the workshop – an immense, noisy, hot and active space – where glassmakers work in groups of three, led by a glassmaster. It takes 20 years to achieve this esteemed status. A blob of glowing molten glass is taken from the furnace (heated to anywhere between 1,180° and 1,320°C), using a long mouth pipe, then shaped using a damp wooden mould made from beech or pear trees. A glassmaker then blows into the mouth pipe and spins it, while a colleague helps to form the piece at the bottom. The completed product is taken to an annealing kiln to cool, before it is sorted on a huge conveyor belt. Any slight imperfections mean the piece is tossed out and smashed into one of the containers at the end, which are separated according to colour so that the fragments can be reused.
CUTTING The outline of ridges or patterns are drawn on using pen, before being carefully sculpted using wheels that spin at high speed. A rough wheel is used for larger patterns such as the panelled effect on the Pope collection. More intricate ornamentation requires a wheel with finer precision, for example the diamond effect on the
image ©Martin Prokes
Splendid collection. Even this is cut entirely by hand. The Splendid collection also requires a special process called oroplastic, where a motif is sandblasted onto the glass, before painters apply platinum or 24 carat gold on top. The paint is then hand-polished using natural agate or hematite until it gleams.
ENGRAVING Some of Moser’s most arresting pieces are those engraved with recognisable imagery such as Flaming June and The Birth of Venus. To produce these incredibly accurate works of art, which look three-dimensional from certain angles, the image ©Martin Prokes image must first be traced onto the vase using chalk before being highlighted using pen. The image is then engraved onto the product by hand; engravers must hold the heavy products and move them against the fine tools with complete accuracy. Works of this kind can take several weeks to complete. moser-glass.com
2000
2011
2014
2017
2018
Moser makes the crystal balls for the festival statuettes awarded at The International Film Festival in Karlovy Vary
The Ludwig Moser Award for young talent launches: winning designs are made into glassworks such as Planet Moser
The Moser visitor centre opens where you can watch the products being made, and even try blowing a piece
The brand celebrates it 160th year with the Anniversary Collection: a curated range of iconic designs including Melody
The Story of Colours collection is launched: a collaboration between Czech designers and Moser glassmasters
image ©Petr Adamek
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Stranger things
Still riding high on the success of his dreamy H&M collaboration, Erdem Moralioglu has teamed up with Nars to create a limited edition beauty collection. The Strange Flowers range of lipsticks, blushers and eyeshadow palettes comes in daring shades of deep plum, orchid and copper – but it’s the romantic floral packaging that steals the show. From £15, narscosmetics.com
Floral notes of Bulgarian rose and Florentine iris give this Creed classic a summer update Love in White Summer, from £115 for 30ml, creedfragrances.co.uk
Smooth criminal Four weeks is apparently all it takes for Lancôme’s Rénergie Multi-Glow to work its magic. A nourishing cream made especially for the over-60s, this wonder product promises to energise and smooth the skin. £64, lancome.co.uk
Sh ad ow E x tr e m e , £29 E ac h , tom for d. c om
IMAGE ©Peter Lindbergh for LancÔme, 2018
health & beauty spa review
Forte
facial
words: Hannah Lemon
T
he Rocco Forte family has 11 hotels around the world and an estimated wealth of well over £340 million. If there was ever a group of people well placed to curate luxury services, it is surely them. Their London outpost, Brown’s Hotel, has always nurtured a casual vibe – very much a local in its approach. Walking in can seem like popping to a neighbour’s for tea. There’s no real reception desk; in fact, when I walk through the lobby I don’t see a soul (thankfully, as I have shunned my normal full face of make-up in preparation for my treatment) and follow the signs to the spa. A lift dips underground and opens to a nondescript corridor, decorated with pictures of naked women soul searching on harsh landscapes. Sparkling blue lino that wouldn’t look out of place lining a children’s public swimming pool covers the floor. A little lacklustre, given the context. However, as I turn the corner I am greeted by Olga, a very friendly therapist who takes my coat and offers me a drink. I fill out the usual forms and sign up for the 80-minute Forte Organics Facial Ritual.
“If I were Sir Rocco, I would have one of these facials daily” I enter the treatment room and find my coat hanging up in a small private space that includes a shower, a wardrobe with dressing grown and flip flops, as well as a vanity table storing all the necessary accoutrements (hair tie, shower cap, ear buds, hand creams, etc.). And a jewellery box – the first time my pet peeve of leaving prized possessions loose on a hotel table top has ever been answered. I sit down for Olga to soak my feet and massage my hands while she asks about my skin care regime and what I find problematic (in my case, spots and dry skin). Each session is then tailored according to the answer. I have an exfoliation, deep cleanse and a steam, with – to my delight – a back and foot massage thrown in for good measure. The Forte family has created its own self-named brand of lotions for the event, Forte Organics. Wafts of hibiscus and pomegranate emanate around my nose, and afterwards I’m given detailed notes of recommended products to use. Relaxed, free of all muscle tension and fully hydrated with essential oils and serums, if I were Sir Rocco I’d have one of these daily. Forte Organics Facial Ritual, £150, Brown’s Hotel, Albemarle Street, W1S, roccofortehotels.com
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Scents
of being
Our sense of smell can help us avoid danger, fall in love and lament those lost. We each have our own scent, so how are we supposed to choose one that represents us from a line-up on a shelf? The perfume experts of the Burlington Arcade are on hand to guide us Words: Marianne Dick
£137 per 100ml
W
e’ve all felt a powerful wrench of emotion when a waft of an ex-lover’s cologne or an estranged relative’s perfume glides into your nostrils from a passing stranger, disturbing you mid-thought and often hurtling you back, inconsiderately, into your past. It’s a sensation that seems far more arresting than seeing a photograph or hearing a name. In The Sense of Smell (1960), writer and naturalist Roy Bedichek wrote: ‘Odour, oftener than any other sense impression, delivers a memory to consciousness little impaired by lapse of time, stripped of irrelevancies of the moment or of the intervening years, apparently alive and all but convincing.’ While these reactions are most often heart-rending, scientists believe that their intensity can actually be attributed to our brains. The olfactory bulb that processes odours doesn’t act like our other senses, which pass through a sort of relay station called the thalamus before moving onto other relevant parts. Instead, smell signals travel straight to the hippocampus, located in the limbic lobe: the centre for memories, emotions and arousal. Interestingly, the hippocampus – named as such because its shape is reminiscent of a seahorse – sits practically next door to the olfactory bulb, which could explain why feelings stirred by the nose are so instantaneous. Despite this rapid connection, it’s sometimes difficult to pinpoint a memory from an aroma, even when the sentiment feels so specific. And, frustratingly, it can be nigh-on impossible to put it into words. One aspect that is usually instinctively – almost primitively – discernible, though, is whether you like it or not. Burlington Arcade is home to some of the most exclusive fragrance brands in the world, and many of them can help you discover your individual perfume personality, each through their own special methods.
£98 per 100ml
£168 per 100ml
£98 per 100ml
£168 per 100ml
health & beauty
The character The aesthetic of Penhaligon’s hardly seems to have changed since William Penhaligon created his first scent in 1872. Called Hammam Bouquet, it was inspired by the lavender and roses used in the Turkish baths on Jermyn Street where he opened his first shop. Indeed, Hammam Bouquet still exists today and, delightfully, it is sold in the same style of bottle as when it was brand new. The thick glass vessels with old-fashioned stoppers, ornate labels and coordinated ribbons line the store of the Burlington Arcade like ingredients in an apothecary. A Penhaligon’s profiling matches the customer with one of its existing blends, and it takes place up the narrow stairs in one of the cosy rooms that were most likely once the home of a shopkeeper. The dark wood and creaky floorboards are evocative of both the arcade’s and the brand’s scintillating history. Favourite smells, foods, fabrics and colours are discussed, to hone in on any key preferences before a comparative testing begins on pairs of fragrances. The options are eventually narrowed down through a process of elimination. Each alluring name has an equally beguiling story behind it. The exotic Vaara was initially commissioned for a two-year-old princess in Jodhpur, while The Bewitching Yasmine is a fictional character within the Portraits perfume family, a series that continues to develop like an eccentric scented soap opera. The perfumes are whittled down to just two or three, and the final contenders are tested on the skin. Whether you’re looking for an everyday companion or a nocturnal alter ego, a bottle of Penhaligon’s will awaken that part of your personality whenever it is spritzed. Fragrance profiling at Penhaligon’s is complimentary, 16-17 Burlington Arcade, WIJ, penhaligons.com
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Roja Dove is a highly personal brand – the name, the décor in the boutique and each of the perfumes all have a connection to the eponymous master perfumer himself. His first creation, A Goodnight Kiss, celebrates the moment Dove fell in love with perfume: when his mother would kiss him goodnight as a child. The floral blend is the perfect capsule of hairspray, make-up, femininity and a mother’s love. Roja – the fragrance Dove wears – demonstrates his wry sense of humour: it contains 24 carat gold flakes because it is the cheapest ingredient within the elixir. Dove was once described as the pornographer of perfume: he is well-known for using rare, sensual, animalic ingredients such as ambergris, jasmine de Grasse, Rose de Mai and orris absolute. The oils from the flowers are obtained by a method of extraction called enfleurage, which takes place in a distillery in Grasse – fewer than five people in the world have the skills and experience to employ this technique. Patrons of the distinctively flashy purple flagship can undertake a consultation called ‘eau de profiling’ by a member of the Dove team. This matches the client with one of Dove’s already established scents via their preferred fragrance families: floral, oriental, fresh, fougère and woody are the main five. Roja Dove’s pièce de résistance, however, is the bespoke service he offers. The process can take from six months to two years and is conducted by Dove over
a series of meetings. He uses his Dunhill Perfumer’s organ of oils to unravel a client’s scent imprint, associating memories and emotions throughout their life with particular extracts. Dove then crafts the subject’s exclusive potion from his small pied-à-terre in Shepherd Market before it is sent to Grasse to be compounded and then back to the UK to be diluted and packaged. Clients own the rights to the scent and choose everything from the colour of the crocodile skin case to the glittering crystal cap. They can even engrave a family crest onto the bottle’s gold plaque. Fragrances can also be made into candles for the home, and are often passed down through families as an heirloom. Some might leave precious jewels or antiques as a legacy, but what could be more emblematic than their scent? Eau de profiling, £375; the bespoke creation, from £45,000, 51 Burlington Arcade, W1J, rojaparfums.com
£225 per 100ml
£375 per 50ml
£425 per 50ml
The legacy
£95 per 100ml
health & beauty
The self The majestic building at 24 Old Bond Street was the once the site of Atkinsons of London, and it still bears the name in gilded letters. Founded by James Atkinson, the store sold fragrances, toiletries and cosmetics and had an in-store barber shop. It traded at this corner spot from 1826 until the middle of 20th century when it closed. The company took a break of 60 years, before reopening in Burlington Arcade last year. The 21st-century Atkinsons focuses on a selection of premium fragrances, presented on a custom-made marble and brass bar designed by Christopher Jenner. Upstairs is the Georgian VIP room: a calm, colourful and comfortable space where clients can peruse archive records and original labels and learn about the brand’s high society endorsers, including King George IV and Beau Brummell. Brummell helped to
put Atkinsons on the map when he caused a stir by entering the high court one day without his wig, instead sporting a coif styled with Atkinsons products. James Atkinson made The British Bouquet for this original Mayfair dandy: a flamboyant mix of bitter orange, lavender and leather that is still available today. A consultation to find your perfect Atkinsons scent or blend usually happens in three stages. Clients are presented with a moodboard of four contrasting ‘worlds’. One, for example, suggests earthiness – wood, dew and campfires – while another is full of flowery, feminine imagery. After it has been established which categories the individual is drawn to, a blind testing follows, allowing notes to appear that might not have usually. The final part is a Q&A session, an experience that can become emotional. Within this, a client might be asked to close their eyes, imagine they are seven years old, and summon their happiest memory – the first image that pops into their head. The recollection is narrowed down to the people involved, then perhaps to their perfume. Boutique manager Andrew Kyriakou uses his own recollection as an example: being bathed by his grandmother. During the flashback he realised she used white musk – a scent that he has consistently been attracted to since. Sometimes, certain aromas feel heart-wrenching when they take us by surprise, but quite often they will be the ones we are drawn to, hiding in the fragrances we love. A secret, ethereal memory map. Atkinsons fragrance profiling, £50 deposit (redeemable on purchases in store), 40-41 Burlington Arcade, W1J, atkinsons1799.com
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up to speed
Great food, good company and a showcase of the world’s fastest cars: London Concours’ garden party is like no other. In the grounds of the Honourable Artillery Company, car enthusiasts can lay eyes on the finest four wheels. Receive a £10 discount for full-day adult entry with the code RUNWILDVIP, londonconcours.co.uk
Lamborghini Miura S at the london concours
Best of
mouthfuls of millinery
Pop in to GBR (Great British Restaurant) for a quick business lunch, overseen by Norfolk-born chef Nigel Mendham. Find traditional dishes abound: starters of rabbit leg or lamb broth, Cumbrian lamb cutlets and fillet of plaice for mains, or a grand finale of hearty bread and butter pudding. £19 for two courses, £25 for three, 37-38 St James’s Place, SW1A, gbrrestaurantslondon.com
Heritage hat maker Lock & Co. has turned its most popular creations into sweet morsels for afternoon tea in The Palm Court at the Sheraton Grand London Park Lane. Sink your teeth into a chocolatey miniature bowler delivered in a hat box, alongside savoury sandwiches (the egg and truffle wrap is a clear winner). From £39, until the end of June, Piccadilly, W1J, palmcourtlondon.co.uk
British
drink & brunch
punch: a history The Punch Room at The London Edition has launched volume two of its popular The Five punch menu, this time detailing the drink’s illustrious past in five steps, from scurvybanishing citrus ingredients to the introduction of ice cubes. £14 per punch, 10 Berners Street, W1T, editionhotels.com
While away a lazy morning at Aubaine. There’s the regular brunch, yes, but why not step it up a notch with the Free-Flowing menu: two hours, two courses and endless glasses of prosecco or bloody Marys. A basket of complimentary breads and croissants is there to start you off before eggs Benedict or pan-fried sea bream perhaps. From £31, aubaine.co.uk
image ©Tom Griffiths
food & drink restaurant review
Delamina WORDS: MARIANNE DICK
I
n the midst of what feels like the longest winter I’ve ever experienced, I’ve found myself craving al fresco dining – preferably with a bright, juicy salad and a glass of chilled white wine. Right on cue, Delamina has arrived in Marylebone. The new venture from the couple behind Strut and Cluck in Shoreditch (Israeli-born executive chef Limor Chen and her husband Amir), opened at the beginning of March: perfect timing for the first signs of spring, or so one might have thought. At least the décor hints at warmer weather, even if the heavens open on the evening that I visit. Designed by Chen herself – art is another of her talents – Delamina is unmistakably related to Strut and Cluck. The exposed brick walls are painted a cool white, the chairs are casually mismatched and hanging plants are suspended at various heights above diners. Homely knick-knacks and family photographs give the impression of being on the Chen family’s summer terrace. In seasonal spirits, my guest and I begin by ordering cocktails from a menu of fabulously titled concoctions. I go for a floral flute of The Fifi Abdou – prosecco, rosé, elderflower and crème de peches – while my friend opts for Jaffa I’ve Mist You, a citrusy nectar containing Havana 7, elderflower and orange. The menu is designed for sharing and there are no strict courses, so we are still happily sipping our cocktails when the first appetiser arrives. The Spicy Crispy Okra is as simple as it sounds: fiery al dente pods mellowed by a light, buttery tempura batter. The Pita Balagan (meaning ‘mess’) of the day sounds irresistible, and doesn’t disappoint. The crisp, fluffy bread is piled with fresh, velvety burrata, tomatoes, pine nuts
FROM TOP: Delamina interior; cod smothered with chermoula; sirloin steak; Charcoaled leeks, Spicy Okra tempura, Butter beans levant & Salad of Avocado
and balsamic vinegar. We also order a portion of baby aubergines topped with black sesame, crumbled goats’ cheese, almonds and raisins, and drizzled with a tamarind and honey dressing. The combination of sweet, tart and creamy flavours is cheek-shudderingly tasty, and while the menu as a whole is based on the nutritious eastern Mediterranean diet, it tastes naughty. Bonus. From the charcoal grill, we choose the cut of the day: tender strips of rare steak, Jerusalem artichokes and red peppers smothered in an indulgent homemade tahini and a sweet yet spicy pepper sauce. From the seafood menu, we don’t look further than the squid marinated in za’atar – a Levantine herb blend mixed with toasted sesame seeds and salt – which is pan-seared, then served with roasted tomatoes, caperberries and crispy cavolo nero. The savoury marinade and briny leaves add an umami quality to dish. The squid could have perhaps been more tender, but then again the meat beside it melted in the mouth. Our feast is rounded off with a highly recommended parfait of halva and roasted almonds. Halva is a traditional Middle Eastern confection made of honey, sesame seeds and sugar, similar to nougat; the addition of a sticky date syrup and raw tahini drizzle makes it taste curiously like a Snickers bar. The rain may still be pouring when we leave, but summer finally feels within reach. In the meantime, vitamin Delamina is the cure. 56-58 Marylebone Lane, W1U, delaminamarylebone.co.uk
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food & drink
Live to
work
It’s no longer business as usual in London. Desks have been swapped for sofas, coffee breaks for meditation and boardroom meetings for chef masterclasses. Guy Ivesha reveals how Mortimer House, his first solo project, is leading the way for new-age working WORDS: Hannah Lemon
I
t’s the first time during an interview that someone has asked me questions, too. I feel flattered. It’s not exactly the prerogative of an interviewee to be interested in the interviewer’s own background. It just goes to show Guy Ivesha’s natural curiosity and polite nature, one of the many characteristics, I’m sure, that have led him to become founder and CEO of parent company Maslow’s. Its first project is Mortimer House, which Ivesha describes as a “one-stop shop for successful entrepreneurs and new
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CLOCKWISE FROM BELOW: MEETING ROOM; MEDITATION AREA; BALCONY; LIVING ROOM & DEN; THE KITCHEN TABLE PREVIOUS PAGE: MORTIMER HOUSE KITCHEN; GUY IVESHA
companies”. The members-only venue is based loosely around the philosophy of Abraham Maslow, after whom the company is named. ‘The Hierarchy of Needs’ explains that to achieve ultimate self-actualisation (or one’s full potential), individuals need to satisfy various needs, from the physical to the emotional. Mortimer House aims to help people do just that through unique lifestyle spaces that have been curated on each of its eight levels. While some see it as part of the flexible working trend taken up by many entrepreneurs and freelancers, Ivesha describes it as a “hospitality platform. It has an element of work space rather than work space being at its core.” It is no wonder that hospitality is the backbone to this project: Ivesha is the son of Boris Ivesha, CEO of PPHE hotel group, which includes the Park Plaza and Art’otel brands. Ivesha studied hospitality and finance at Surrey university, working in hospitality consulting and then moving to New York to work on what he describes as “one of the most talked about hospitality projects in Manhattan: The Plaza Hotel”. He returned to London to work for PPHE and then, with backing from Cain International, Galliard and other silent investors, launched on his own. From the moment I enter the reception I can see how the world of concierge teams, porters and five-star services has had an impact. Smiling staff greet me behind the counter and cheerily show me around the venue. “We operate this place like a hotel,” Ivesha tells me later. “We have beautiful private study rooms that almost replace the bedrooms. Future projects will have some accommodation on top of everything else.” But for now, I’m satisfied with looking around the ground floor level that hosts Mortimer House Kitchen, a 90-cover restaurant and the only part of the building open to the public. It focuses on fresh, sustainable and organic produce for a Mediterranean menu with Middle Eastern influences. Breakfast is a relaxed affair with the classic offerings of eggs Benedict and a full English, alongside a breakfast bar that provides a selection of house-made cereals, energy balls, gluten-free cookies and pressed juices. The all-day menu combines dishes like shakshuka with plentiful seafood options, from grilled octopus to roasted grouper. For dinner, there’s the added bonus of an extensive cocktail and organic wine list. A conservatory, hidden behind a side curtain, is available for private hire for up to 20 people. It has a grand skylight that fills the room with London’s rarely seen sunshine, which bounces off the exposed brick walls and the indoor pot plants. The rest of the restaurant is open-plan with marble countertops, a terracotta ceiling decorated with timber and rattan panelling, wood floors and concrete columns. Elsewhere the club channels 1930s interiors designed by New York architect AvroKO, with elements of the original building left intact, such as the retro staircase. “Fitzrovia has a very bohemian history,” says Ivesha. “The building is Art Deco, so I wanted to respect that.” He notes that a few other developers who try to set up similar lifestyle concepts without taking the local
food & drink
community into account end up failing. “I think we will see some pushed out of the market in the coming years,” he remarks, “but that’s the natural evolution of any new market. The good ones will survive; the ones that are distinct and have a complete and well-defined product.” 6th floor: Loft & Gallery Below the restaurant is a fullywith meditation room equipped gym, which aims to enhance 5th floor: Living Room & body, mind and spirit. Members can Den and boardroom sign up to training sessions and classes 4th floor: Working space (yoga, barre, reformer pilates and and boardroom TRX) as well as use the clean and 3rd floor: Working space calming white-tiled changing rooms, and Drawing Room equipped with lotions and potions 2nd floor: Working space from the aptly named Zenology. and boardroom As I make my way slowly up the 1st floor: Working space different levels, I realise what a boardroom with modern fixtures, and The Kitchen Table colossal project it is. Each floor has a while others might opt for the meeting room dedicated area for almost any Drawing Room or The Kitchen Table. Ground floor: personality and preference. People The latter is a homely space complete Reception, Mortimer House can hire out formal, permanent office with tea towels and salt and pepper Kitchen and Conservatory spaces; hot desk; or chill with their pots – plus chefs, if requested. Basement: Studio & Gym Apple Mac and soy latte on a snug Ivesha remains tight-lipped about sofa, depending on which tier of the next destinations he has membership they pay for. planned, but my guess is The fifth and sixth floors are the most interesting, international. Out of interest, I add, does he with a Living Room & Den on the former that is implement this flexible work/life ethos himself? “Yes, centred around a bar area, serving complimentary I like to move around every day. I don’t like sitting in coffees and teas as well as a snack menu (guests can the same spot. Sometimes, I’m on the fifth floor. also order from the restaurant). The relaxed Sometimes, the sixth. Sometimes I’m in the office. I atmosphere here makes the prospect of work seem go to the gym a few times a week and I try the food all almost enjoyable, with people softly talking over the time to make sure it remains consistent. I take business deals while indie music plays in the advantage of each and every aspect we have here – it background. The Loft & Gallery is more tranquil with helps me to ensure that it remains high quality.” I a private meditation room, ground-level cushions to guess that when work and play are so intertwined, it’s relax on and hammocks on the balcony. difficult to tell between the two. Private meeting rooms are just as playful. For those 37-41 Mortimer Street, W1T, mortimerhouse.com that fancy the traditional, there’s a corporate-style
Going up
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travel
Ahead of the curve Canal-crossed Hamburg is now home to a new architectural triumph: The Fontenay hotel. The building is made of three intertwining circles, with 130 rooms – all outward-facing – overlooking the city and the green banks of Lake Alster. There’s not a straight or parallel wall to be found (all are concave or convex), and a grand 14,000 sq m of glass floods the hotel with light. Admire, and enjoy. From £318, room only, thefontenay.de
c The atrium lounge has a 27-metre eiling and 200 satin glass windows new and improved Zimbabwe’s Singita Pamushana has reopened with two new two-bedroom pool suites (bringing its total to eight), plus a five-bedroom villa set away from the main lodge. The Malilangwe Wildlife Reserve has 38 habitats and ecological zones in its 130,000 acres, which Singita works with a local non-profit to protect. From $1,650 per person per night, full board, singita.com
on the right track Snoozing through your journey is out of the question on the new 360° Machu Picchu Train, which has windows that give the widest views imaginable and an open-air observation area for snapping the Andes and its lush surrounds. But first class is something else, with two dining carriages (serving Andean dishes like trout, quinoa and golden berries), live music and an outdoor observation balcony. From £56 one way, incarail.com
your wildest dreams Voyage into the depths of Guyana, where the Caribbean meets the Amazon, to discover a land where 80 per cent is virgin rainforest, home to jaguar, giant anteaters and river otters. Just don’t forget to pack your camera. From £4,075 per person for 17 days, steppestravel.com
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suite dreams
The
Mandrake Words: Marianne Dick
B
efore I spent a night in its penthouse suite, The Mandrake Hotel was a mystery to me. Other than being swayed by friends’ envious reactions to my forthcoming visit, all I knew about the boutique hotspot, which opened last September, was that it shares the name of the magical plant in the Harry Potter books. My familiarity with J.K. Rowling’s writing proved a useful comparison. Firstly, there’s no obvious entrance to The Mandrake, so any muggles who aren’t looking for it are likely to walk straight past – a Fitzrovian Room of Requirement, if you will. After double checking that the address was indeed the one above a dark and ominous alley emitting strange warbles, I proceeded down to find a side door that reveals the reception. A golden sculpture of a bird, reminiscent of a phoenix, is mounted above the front desk. On further investigation it transpires that the owner, Rami Fustok, did actually base his concept on the healing and spiritual properties of the mandrake plant. Looking around the reception area, I suspect he considered its hallucinogenic powers too: it is filled with velvet-lined furniture, surreal artwork and a gothic Lara Bohinc chandelier. The decor was overseen by Fustok’s interior designer sister, Tala. The reception is dramatic, decadent and probably not to everyone’s taste – notably the hybrid taxidermy of a peacock and a goat above the bar. Art plays a pivotal role in the hotel, which is full of paintings and curiosities that Fustok has collected on his travels; plus sculptural pieces
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made by his mother Bushra Fakhoury. The hotel hosts a rolling artist in residence programme. When it opened, celebrity tattooist Mark Mahoney was on hand to ink guests and visitors that included Johnny Depp. The dark, theatrical aesthetic continues upstairs in many of the suites: think four-poster beds, heavy draping and freestanding bathtubs – after all, the mandrake was once considered an aphrodisiac too. The penthouse, however, feels like it is more inclined to the spiritual and healing traits of the plant. Floor-to-ceiling windows and white
The Mandrake is strange, unexpected and unlike anything I’ve experienced Veronese marble make the already sprawling space seem even airier, but quirks including a steampunk-style chandelier; a fur-lined, hornadorned throne; and an embellished Venetian mask left in the walk-in wardrobe are constant reminders of the hotel’s fantasy alter ego. The sparkling marble continues in the enormous bathroom, where a jacuzzi is shaded by a tree made of ostrich feathers. You can open a skylight window to watch the moon and stars as the bubbles change colour around you. The balcony overlooks the central courtyard, which overflows with wild, hanging flora such as passion flower and jasmine. There’s also a glasshouse full of exotic species on the second floor of the hotel, where you can dine privately or simply while away an afternoon. The penthouse suite can also host one of the spiritual wellbeing treatments that the hotel offers, including the Mandrake’s Soul Revival that comprises a Hawaiian full body massage by expert masseuse Slavomir Latko, followed by sound therapy. This experience involves drums being placed on your head, chest and stomach, then beaten gently and rhythmically in order to massage your internal organs. It’s said to sometimes bring out inexplicable emotions and reactions: I have to admit, I had to stifle a giggle or two.
The hotel’s restaurant, Serge et le Phoque, was a thrilling prospect for London when it opened, as the original Hong Kong outpost holds a Michelin star. The interior is stylish yet relaxed, and I particularly loved the whimsical French pop songs playing in the background. The contemporary French menu is well-executed and unusual, without being fussy or overcomplicated. Highlights included skewered Cornish mussels served with a cube of fried parmesan tapioca, Basque beef with artichokes, and a divine dacquoise with vanilla pastry cream. The Mandrake is strange and unexpected, and completely unlike anything I’ve ever experienced in London. But just how Hogwarts welcomed Harry Potter, it makes you feel completely at home. Penthouse suite, from £4,500, bed and breakfast, 20-21 Newman Street, W1T, mandrake.com
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W
hen the Māori settled in Auckland around 1350, they named it the isthmus of a thousand lovers because of its fertile soil, thanks to 48 volcanic craters that shape the landscape. Also coined the city of sails, much of its appeal centres around Waitematā Harbour and its numerous wharves. Auckland might not be New Zealand’s capital anymore (a title transferred to Wellington in 1865 when parliament moved there), but it is often considered the gateway to the country. Figures for the year ending June 2017 showed that Auckland had the fastest population growth out of all the country’s regions: an increase of 2.6 per cent, to a total of 1.66 million people. According to the same data from Stats NZ, it is also New Zealand’s most youthful destination – half the population are under the age of 34, a characteristic that can be most readily observed in the hip coffee shops on what feels like every street. It’s a wonder that this caffeine-dependent city remains so laidback. Queen Street is Auckland’s spine: it runs in a straight line down to the waterfront from the central point where the motorways gather before branching off to the city’s suburbs. Many of the tourist attractions, such as the Sky Tower and Auckland Art Gallery, require just a short deviation along a side road. Down by the waterfront, it seems that an elixir of youth has also been sprinkled over the structural design. The Wynyard Quarter – only around seven years old – comprises vast public spaces and casual places to eat and drink while overlooking the gleaming superyachts. Just along from Wynyard Quarter – across Queen Street – is the Britomart area. Next to Auckland’s main transport centre, this industrial site was once home to Fort Britomart, which was used as a base for British colonial troops in the 19th century. The remaining structures have been renovated in what is the largest heritage restoration in New Zealand to date, and has attracted a number of ultra-trendy stores, restaurants and art galleries. It’s worth crossing the Auckland Harbour Bridge, which takes less than half an hour, to stroll along the white sands of the tranquil Takapuna Beach. After, make your way along to Mount Victoria – a walkable 87-metre volcano – from which you can look back across the harbour and admire the neat, city skyline and aquamarine horizon. Auckland’s fertile earth has indeed flourished.
city break
Auckland Urban spaces, balmy beaches, and an abundance of coffee make for an exhilarating place to stay on more than a stopover WORDS: marianne dick Devonport, image courtesy of Tourism New Zealand
giapo ice cream, image ©Davide Zerilli, and below
Auckland Harbour, image ©Julian Apse
image courtesy of auckland seaplanes
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Where to stay Built in 1925, the downtown Hotel DeBrett celebrates its roaring twenties heritage with a themed high tea on weekends. The retro references continue throughout the hotel: swirling striped carpets and spotted monochrome bathrooms hark back to the 60s, while mirrored lifts give the effect of being inside a 70s disco ball. There’s an airy central atrium that houses a restaurant, plus a corner bar at street level that is ideal for observing the city or mingling among locals while sipping a craft beer. From £179 per night, bed and breakfast, hoteldebrett.com
Where to eat Waiheke Island, image ©Julian Apse
There’s no need to worry about outdated reviews or dodgy tip-offs because The Big Foody tour company, set up by British expat Elle Hotel Debrett, and left and below Armon-Jones in 2009, does all the hard work for you. You can tailor a tour to your taste or experience a variety of local culinary gems. Highlights include a pick-meup at Miller’s Coffee, a feel-good lunch at Orphan’s Kitchen and a chat with charcuterie queen Hannah Miller, also known as A Lady Butcher. Polish it all off with an outrageous ice cream from Giapo’s parlour – it serves one in a Yorkshire pudding if you’re feeling homesick. From NZD$85 per person, thebigfoody.com
Don’t miss...
rbour, n Apse
image ©Chris McLennan
Forget the Sky Tower, the only way to see Auckland from above is from a seaplane. Out of the smattering of islands that you can fly to in the North Island’s Hauraki Gulf, the larger Waiheke is probably the most popular with its roaming vineyards, olive groves, bays and beaches. For ultimate isolation and tranquillity, however, hop over to the idyllic Kawau: the 5,000-acre island has a population of only about 80, and no road access whatsoever. The Kawau Beach House sits steps away from the sand, and can accommodate guests overnight, or for one truly unforgettable meal. From NZD$470 per person, aucklandseaplanes.com
suitcase essentials
1 sh irt, £ 2 2 5 , pau l s m i t h . co m
2 Car d igan , £ 4 4 9 , H a r r o d s o f L ondon, h a r r o d s . co m
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Cruise
control
There’s a less obvious but more efficient way to view the Monaco Grand Prix from the water: a cruise. Swap the hassle of securing a Port Hercules yacht berth for nine days of Mediterranean glamour Words: Camilla Apcar
port hercule in preparation for the monaco grand prix, photography: Andrew Fairbairn
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T
he Monaco Grand Prix is the most exclusive race on the Formula One calendar. Since 1929 racers have wound their way through the tiny principality for the super-rich, on a track that takes over the streets for one weekend in May each year (for 2018, it will be 26-27 May). The Circuit de Monaco starts to come to life in April, which is a less hectic time to visit for those who wish to explore the Prince’s Palace or Princess Grace rose garden in peace. The roads are in almost normal use until the very final days before the Grand Prix, when the starting grid is painted straight on, hundreds of grandstand seats are erected along the race route and chevrons are melted onto the pavements. There are a limited number of ways to partake in the revelry of race weekend itself, however. You could buy scarce grandstand tickets from £73 or up to £2,583 for a terrace overlooking the port; cosy up to distant friends who own an apartment with a prized view; or take out a suite at hotels such as the Fairmont, which sits on top of the hair-raising tunnel and infamous hairpin bend. Yet taking to the water is the most glamorous option. Last year I could count fewer than 15 boats with a clear trackside view in the central Port Hercules (pictured, previous page), although it can hold many more boats. To snag a spot, you must either be able to justify a connection with Formula One or one of the race sponsors; be a local; or book through either, between the preceding June and February. For six days including the race weekend, a space for your own 30-34m yacht is €21,758 (about £19,000), up to €94,028 for a 70-80m (about £82,000); or €998,000 to rent a fully serviced vessel of the same size (about £872,000). There is one way, however, to get the best of both worlds: a cruise. Only one or two cruise ships are allowed to drop anchor off Monte Carlo’s coast at any one time, just out of view of the race. Of these, cruise line Silversea offers the ultimate in Formula One
experiences – a 48-hour stop as part of a nine-day cruise from Barcelona to Civitavecchia (a port just north of Rome). For the duration of race weekend, Silversea takes over a building with a view of Port Hercules and the Sainte Devote corner. It’s a prime spot: the first bend on the circuit, which often causes startlingly close crashes that must be hoisted by cranes over the track barriers as the smell of burnt rubber fills the air. The building is sheltered and cool inside – crucial when faced with a 78-lap race in the midday sun – and right in the action for both the Saturday qualifying and Sunday race day. There are three-course lunches, TV screens for commentary and exclusive talks by former Formula One drivers and experts like Allan McNish. This location also allows a speedy getaway as soon as the national anthems have finished playing. The keen will want to walk 15 minutes to the dock for a tender back to ship, picking up scraps of tyre from the track as souvenirs and snaps of the finish line podiums; others will prefer an air-conditioned transfer to avoid crowds. Silversea’s exact Mediterranean itinerary can vary from year to year (Ajaccio in Corsica might be swapped for Calvi, further north on the island, or Cannes for Saint-Tropez), but home base remains the fleet’s flagship vessel, Silver Muse. This smart ship has 411 crew members for its 596 guest capacity and nine types of chic suite with butler service. Most rooms have verandas, which make a thrilling spot to sit cautiously when the ship is on the move – especially in the dark of the night, when it gets up to speed and the wind noisily chops waves all around.
travel PIT STOPS
During the day, there are organised excursions at each port, from sightseeing to cycling or wine tasting, else you can make your own way or relax in the ship’s pool and spa. If the eight onboard restaurants don’t seem quite enough, an extensive room service menu takes no step down in quality, unlike some of the best hotels on land. Love red wine? Your butler will notice and leave out some attractive bottles to sample in your cabin’s wine rack. Space might be at a premium on a cruise ship, but even in a 387 sq ft veranda suite Silversea manages a heated full bathroom, a walk-in wardrobe, two TV screens set into mirrors and a coffee table that butlers can neatly convert into a full-scale dining one. Those who sail with Silversea find themselves returning again and again (there’s a two-week voyage thrown in once you’ve reached 500 days, and another week-long trip for each 150 days thereafter). In Monte Carlo I met a gentleman who had racked up nearly 1,000 at sea. He had originally only taken the cruise to see Jenson Button’s last hurrah when he returned to drive in place of Fernando Alonso for McLaren. Now this Silversea veteran travels on the ship so often that a packed bag is kept onboard for him, ready for each return. In 2020, a 140-day around-the-world voyage will visit every continent (the Silver Whisper will be the first cruiser to do so), with 62 stops including Antarctica, Mumbai and Tahiti. But for high-octane excitement closer to home, the Monaco Grand Prix is plenty for starters.
Only one or two cruise ships can drop anchor off Monte Carlo’s coast at a time
Cannes When the calendar aligns, the Cannes Film Festival is the same week as the Grand Prix – and a stop here serves a different glamour. There won’t be much shopping to be achieved as fans flock in, but cruise the La Croisette promenade to get caught up in the atmosphere, dodging film students clamouring to get into screenings, and spy your ride home glistening on the horizon.
Ajaccio, Corsica Napoleon’s birthplace has little in the way of razzmatazz, but it’s ideal for a day’s relaxation. Walk along the shoreline or up to the grotto where Napoleon is said to have been hiding when his father told him he was off to military school. For something completely off-piste yet educational, visit Napo-rama: 18 scenes constructed from Playmobil, illustrating Napoleon’s life story.
From £7,600, silversea.com
Portofino This fishing village with cobbled streets and brightly coloured houses is the Italian Riviera at its most picturesque. Don a wide-brimmed hat, indulge in something from Loro Piana or Salvatore Ferragamo, and hike up to the Abbey of San Fruttuoso.
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THE RESIDENTS’ SOCIETY OF MAYFAIR & ST JAMES’S
Summer Garden Party
DRINKS | CANAPÉS | BARBEQUE | ENTERTAINMENT | LIVE MUSIC | CASINO | FABULOUS RAFFLE PRIZES
Thursday 6pm-9pm 14 June 2018 Mount Street Gardens Mayfair W1K 2PB For details and how to attend visit www.rsmsj.com or email events@rsmsj.com or call Howard Evans on 07950 776 704 IN ASSOCIATION WITH
regulars
back in time
House of
Garrard W O R D S : C AT H E R I N E R A G G E T T
G
eorge Wickes founded the fine jewellery shop House of Garrard in 1735. He had trained under the direction of prominent silversmith Samuel Wastell, and his skilled craftsmanship soon brought him to the attention of the eldest son of King George II, Frederick, Prince of Wales. The firm was known under a variety of names and partnerships for 67 years before Robert Garrard took sole control in 1802. Garrard carried on receiving high status commissions for the next century, eventually being given the title of official crown jeweller by Queen Victoria in 1843, which it held until 2007. Its success continued during the reign of Queen Victoria, due in part to the Great Exhibition of 1851, which took place in the Crystal Palace in Hyde Park. The Prince Consort, Prince Albert, along with civil servant Henry Cole, organised the Great Exhibition, as a way of showcasing Britain’s industrial innovation and craftsmanship, so that artisans could be inspired by manufacturers and vice versa. One of the most popular of the 14,000 exhibits was the diamond known as the Koh-i-Noor (‘Mountain of
clockwise from top left: Queen Victoria with a Small Diamond Crown made by House of garrard; the Old Albemarle Street shop; necklace from the fanfare collection; Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother’s Consort Crown, 1937; earrings from the white rose collection
Light’), presented to Queen Victoria by the East India Company in 1849. While its presence drew more than six million visitors over six months, on seeing the rock many people were left disappointed by its dull and asymmetric appearance. The following year Garrard was asked to re-cut the diamond, which reduced its weight but increased its quality and charm (it is now the centre of The Queen Mother’s Consort Crown). The discovery of the Cullinan diamond in 1905 dared to rival the beauty of the Koh-i-Noor. It created such excitement that its transportation from South Africa became a secret operation whereby a decoy diamond was brought over to Europe surrounded by pomp and ceremony, while the real diamond was delivered by post. Joseph Asscher, a Dutch jeweller, meticulously studied its structure and cut it into nine separate stones. The largest fragment is known as the Cullinan I, or more affectionately the First Star of Africa, which holds the title of the largest clear-cut diamond in the world, weighing 530.2 carats. It was brought to England where Garrard was given the task of setting it into the Sovereign’s Sceptre. Another example of Garrard’s royal craftsmanship that is more commonly seen in newspapers is the Duchess of Cambridge’s engagement ring, which features a blue sapphire surrounded by a cluster of diamonds. Although Garrard was no longer the crown jeweller at the time of His Royal Highness Prince William and Kate’s engagement in 2010, the ring belonged to Prince William’s mother Diana, Princess of Wales, who wore it on her engagement to His Royal Highness Prince Charles in 1981. Garrard continues to balance tradition and trends, ethically and sustainably sourcing gems, and maintaining its expert craft with new collections. With its team of expert artisans, the cut of each diamond catches the light to sparkle brilliantly, whether set in a ring, necklace or crown. 24 Albemarle Street, W1S, garrard.com
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Mayfair
44 Connaught Street, W2 2AA 020 7402 1552 (sales) 020 7371 3377 (lettings)
61 Park Lane, W1K 1QF 020 7409 9001 harrodsestates.com
London, Marylebone and Regent’s Park
Marylebone 55 Baker Street W1U 8EW 020 3435 6440 (sales) knightfrank.co.uk
Knightsbridge HUMBERTS 48 Berkeley Square, W1J 5AX 020 3284 1888 humberts.com
47 South Audley Street, W1K 2QA 020 7629 4513 (sales) 020 7288 8301 (lettings)
10 Gillingham Street SW1V 1HJ 020 3411 8386 (sales) chestertons.com
66 Sloane Street, SW1X 9SH 020 7235 9959 struttandparker.com Pastor Real Estate Ltd 11 Curzon Street W1J 5HJ 020 3879 8989 (sales)
Mayfair
Westminster and Pimlico
Mayfair 13 Hill Street, W1J 5LQ 020 7123 4222
37 New Cavendish Street W1G 9TL 020 7486 8866 carterjonas.co.uk
ChestertonS
Strutt & Parker
Kay&Co
Hyde Park 24-25 Albion Street, W2 2AX 020 3930 4871
48 Curzon Street W1J 7UL 020 3195 9595 (lettings) pastor-realestate.com
Wetherell 102 Mount Street, W1K 2TH 020 7493 6935 wetherell.co.uk
showcasing the finest homes & property from the best estate agents
Image courtesy of wetherell
Straight to
the top
Rooftop gardens: invest in prime spaces with premium views
Market insight Present and correct Partner and head of Knight Frank Mayfair, Harvey Cyzer
P
olitical uncertainty still provides grounds for caution, but buyers and sellers sense more stable market conditions. As pricing in prime central London has stabilised, so have trading volumes. There was a two per cent increase in sales volumes in the year to February compared to the previous 12-month period, LonRes data shows. While the market remains sensitive to political events, there currently appears to be a sense of stability being restored and the impact of stamp duty has been substantially absorbed and is now an accepted cost of transacting. Indeed, an analysis of asking price reductions over the past year shows pricing has more than adjusted to take higher transaction costs into account. This over-compensation suggests the market has also undergone a process of self-correction following the bull market run between 2009 and 2014. There is evidence that property owners are responding to the fact pricing and sales volumes are bottoming out. Consequently, the number of properties listed for sale in prime central London was 5.4 per cent higher in February than the same month last year.
Hot Property In the heart of Mayfair, Burlington Gate provides a selection of galleries and high quality residential apartments within one of the first newly constructed buildings in the area. Moments from the Royal Academy of Arts and Burlington Arcade, these exquisite apartments feature exceptional detailing and innovative styling. The spa and state-of-the-art gymnasium will be managed by Bodyism offering a 24-hour fitness facility along with sauna and treatment room. In addition to the concierge service there is secure underground parking available for all residents. Prices from ÂŁ4.1m, 020 8166 7484, knightfrank.com/mayfair
property
Apt adjustments Partner and head of Knight Frank Marylebone, Christian Lock-Necrews
O
ur Marylebone and Fitzrovia office has agreed six sales in March below £3.5m. The highest pound per sq ft achieved in 2017 was £5,530 compared to £3,510 in 2013. February was the third month in which a marginal annual adjustment was recorded, providing further evidence that pricing has stabilised following a series of steeper declines over the past two years. Marylebone has displayed the strongest growth (3.5 per cent) due to the area’s high-quality new build pipeline. Our sales team is stronger than ever, and we are continually striving to provide the best possible service to our clients. While my team are out on viewings and market appraisals, I would like to take this opportunity to introduce you to a spectacular freehold Grade II-listed Georgian house on Cleveland Street, which has undergone
above: cleveland street
an extraordinary interior design and redevelopment to create two luxury apartments. It’s said that a picture speaks a thousand words, but presentation is key: this property is immaculate and has been renovated to exacting standards, using the finest materials throughout. This purchase offers a great opportunity as access to the roof gives potential to add outdoor space with a roof terrace (subject to planning permission). As mentioned in my April column, “in the coming months, owners with the rare commodity of a terrace or garden will see activity increase”. For more information or to discuss the current market activity, please do not hesitate to contact us. 020 3641 7938, knightfrank.com/marylebone
LU X URY LONDON.CO.UK | 095
Connaught Square, Hyde Park W2 Magnificently restored throughout An imposing Grade II listed Georgian townhouse, magnificently restored and located on a prestigious garden square beside the green open spaces of Hyde Park and within easy reach of the internationally renowned amenities of the West End. 5 bedrooms (1 en suite), 2 bathrooms, reception room, kitchen, dining room, office, utility room, gym and study. Approximately: 333.98 sq m (3,595 sq ft). Freehold
Guide price: £6,950,000
KnightFrank.co.uk/hydepark hydepark@knightfrank.com 020 3544 6140
@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk
KnightFrank.co.uk/HPE160155
Mayfair magazine - April 2018 3
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Upper Montagu Street, Marylebone W1H Grade II listed freehold Georgian house with large roof terrace Completely refurbished to an extremely high standard in 2016, offering spectacular living space. Master bedroom (with en suite bathroom), second bedroom (with dressing room and guest cloakroom), third bedroom (with shower room), 3 further bedrooms, shower room, reception room, kitchen, guest cloakroom, 2 patios and roof terrace. Approximately 255.47 sq m (2,750 sq ft) including external space. Leasehold: Freehold
Guide price: £3,950,000 KnightFrank.co.uk/POD170863
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KnightFrank.co.uk/marylebone marylebone@knightfrank.com 020 3641 7938
@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk
11/04/2018 12:03:36
Nottingham Street, Marylebone W1U An immaculately refurbished three bedroom apartment A spectacular lateral three bedroom apartment, located on the second floor of a beautiful red brick mansion block. Master bedroom (with en suite shower room), second double bedroom (with en suite bathroom), third bedroom, shower room, spacious reception room and separate fully fitted kitchen. EPC: F. Approximately 134.24 sq m (1,445 sq ft). Leasehold plus Share of Freehold
Guide price: £2,999,950
KnightFrank.co.uk/marylebone marylebone@knightfrank.com 020 3641 7938
@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk
KnightFrank.co.uk/POD170882
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Crawford Street, Marylebone W1H A charming one bedroom apartment Located on the first floor in a beautiful converted building in the heart of Marylebone, finished to a high standard throughout. Double bedroom (with en suite bathroom), open plan kitchen/ reception room. Further benefits include three light wells creating an abundance of natural light. EPC: G. Approximately 40.4 sq m (435 sq ft). Leasehold: approximately 982 years remaining
Guide price: £850,000
KnightFrank.co.uk/marylebone marylebone@knightfrank.com 020 3641 7938
@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk
KnightFrank.co.uk/MRY170174
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11/04/2018 11:27:57
MOVE.
This Spring, with Knight Frank Mayfair. Our understanding of the everchanging market enables us to price your property accurately, so you can rely on Knight Frank to get you moving. Call us today to arrange your free market appraisal. KnightFrank.co.uk/mayfair mayfair@knightfrank.com 020 8166 7484 Guide price: £7,950,000
South Audley Street, Mayfair W1K A spacious three bedroom apartment set on the third floor of a traditional period building. 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, reception room, dining room, kitchen, study, hallway, guest cloakroom, lift. EPC: D. Approximately 179.6 sq m (1,933 sq ft). mayfair@knightfrank.com Office: 020 8166 7484
@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk
Guide price: £6,950,000
Mount Row, Mayfair W1K An exceptional unmodernised six bedroom freehold townhouse, with a spacious private terrace. 6 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, reception/dining room, kitchen, utility room, terrace, garage, basement. EPC: E. Approximately 293.9 sq m (3,164 sq ft). mayfair@knightfrank.com Office: 020 8166 7484
Mayfair Mag Sales May page 1
12/04/2018 12:26:48
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MOVE.
This Spring, with Knight Frank Mayfair.
Guide price: £3,995,000
Bourdon Street, Mayfair W1K An elegant refurbished apartment of 1,259 sq ft with porter and stunning dual aspect views over the West End. 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, kitchen/living area, guest cloakroom, hallway, lift, porter. EPC: D. Approximately 117 sq m (1,259 sq ft). mayfair@knightfrank.com Office: 020 8166 7484
We pride ourselves on being your local agent with an international network. To speak with a member of your local Knight Frank team, please call us on 020 8166 7484 or drop by our office on Mount Street. KnightFrank.co.uk/mayfair mayfair@knightfrank.com 020 8166 7484
@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk
Guide price: £1,400,000
Pollen Street, Mayfair W1S A contemporary first floor apartment offering a spacious open plan living area, within a central Mayfair location. 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, kitchen/living area, patio, lift. EPC:D. Approximately 66.3 sq m (714 sq ft). mayfair@knightfrank.com Office: 020 8166 7484
Mayfair Mag Sales May page 2
11/04/2018 17:28:28
Arlington Street, St James's SW1A A luxury and exceptionally well located three bedroom apartment A beautifully finished three bedroom apartment located within an award winning development, set in a peaceful enclave in St James’s . Master bedroom with en suite bathroom and dressing room, 2 further en suite bedrooms, reception/dining room, kitchen, guest cloakroom, hallway, direct lift access. EPC:B. Appoximately 227.1 sq m (2,444 sq ft). Available furnished
Guide price: £ 4,250 per week All potential tenants should be advised that, as well as rent, an administration fee of £288 and referencing fees of £48 per person will apply when renting a property. There will also be a £48 charge to register your deposit with the Tenancy Deposit Scheme if applicable. (All fees shown are inclusive of VAT.) Please ask us for more information about other fees that will apply or visit www.knightfrank.co.uk/tenantfees.
Mayfair Mag lettings May 18 New
KnightFrank.co.uk/lettings mayfairlettings@knightfrank.com 020 8166 7799
@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk
16/04/2018 13:55:27
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MOVE. This Spring, with Knight Frank Whether you're looking to buy or rent, our local team can help you find your perfect property, sooner. Contact us today to arrange a viewing. We'd love to help you. KnightFrank.co.uk/marylebone marylebonelettings@knightfrank.com 020 3641 9968
Guide price: £1,600 per week
Rathbone Square, Fitzrovia W1 A spacious and bright two bedroom apartment situated in a brand new development. 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, open plan reception room with kitchen, study and private balcony. EPC: B. Available furnished. marylebonelettings@knightfrank.com Office: 020 3641 9968
@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk
Guide price: £1,795 per week
Molyneux Street, Marylebone W1 A stunning four bedroom Georgian townhouse, finished to a high standard. 4 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, double reception room, kitchen, dining room, utility room and patio garden. EPC: E. Available furnished or unfurnished. marylebonelettings@knightfrank.com Office: 020 3641 9968
M&F Lettings 12032018
12/04/2018 10:54:51
NEW CAVENDISH STREET MARYLEBONE W1 AN EXCEPTIONAL APARTMENT SET WITHIN THE HEART OF MARYLEBONE Located between Portland Place and Marylebone High Street, New Cavendish Street presents a recently renovated three bedroom apartment occupying the entire second floor of an impressive Robert Adam building. This exceptional apartment has been renovated to the highest standard and benefits from high ceilings, large sash windows and triple aspect views over New Cavendish Street. Accommodation: Entrance hall, double reception room, kitchen/dining room, master bedroom with ensuite bathroom and dressing room, 2 further bedrooms with ensuite bathrooms, guest cloakroom, study. Amenities: Communal CCTV, lift, access to resident-only garden.
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£7,500 000
Richard Douglas
Leasehold
richard@beauchamp.com
Joint Sole Agents
+44 (0)20 7593 8148
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EATON MEWS SOUTH BELGRAVIA SW1 AN ELEGANT 3 BEDROOM MEWS HOUSE IN THE HEART OF BELGRAVIA An elegant three bedroom mews house extending to c. 2,333 sq ft located in the heart of Belgravia close to Elizabeth Street. Arranged over four floors with a passenger lift and fantastic roof terrace, this freehold mews house has been renovated to a very high standard. Accommodation: Entrance hall, double reception room, kitchen/dining room, master bedroom with ensuite bathroom, 2 further bedrooms, ensuite shower rooms, guest cloakroom, utility room. Amenities: Roof terrace, garage providing secure parking, passenger lift.
Paul Finch
£7,200 000
paul@beauchamp.com
Freehold
+44 (0)20 7158 0915
Joint Sole Agents
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AVENFIELD HOUSE MAYFAIR SW1 A SPECTACULAR 3 BEDROOM LATERAL APARTMENT OVERLOOKING HYDE PARK Finished to an exceptionally high standard and located in one of Mayfair’s finest residences, Avenfield House offers grand lateral space and breath-taking views of Hyde Park. Recently refurbished, this stunning penthouse is perfect for entertaining. Accommodation: Entrance hall, double reception room, kitchen, dining room, 2 bedrooms with ensuite bathrooms, bedroom 3 with ensuite shower room, guest cloakroom, study. Amenities: Utility room, 24-hour concierge, underground parking.
£5,750/week No tenant fees
Laura Hutton Laura@beauchamp.com +44 (0)20 7205 2481
LONDON LONDON · · C ACNNES A NNE S · · F LO F LO R ERNECNEC E · · M YKO M YKO NO NSO S · · N ENW EW YOYO R KR K · · H EHREZRLZI YA L I YA
www.pastor-realestate.com
TO LET: WHITE HORSE STREET, W1
£1,600 per week - Furnished
Dual aspect reception room | Bespoke kitchen | Large master suite | Roof terrace A 3 bedroom maisonette with a bright, south-facing roof terrace. Located in the heart of Shepherd Market, this attractive property is set over 3 floors and has been finished in a contemporary style to an excellent specification.
FURTHER DETAILS FOR ALL LETTINGS CONTACT: +44 (0)20 3195 9595 lettings@pastor-realestate.com 48 Curzon Street, London, W1J 7UL
TO LET: SHEPHERD STREET, W1
£4,000 per week
3 bedrooms | Outside space on 3 levels | Air-conditioning | Cinema room | Garage Beautifully presented modern house located on a quiet residential Mayfair street. The house extends to 2837 sq ft (264 sq m) and offers spacious luxury accommodation finished to a high specification.
TO LET: ST ANSLEM’S PLACE, W1
£3,650 per week
5 bedrooms | Roof terrace and paved garden | Air-conditioning | Garages | Swimming pool An impressive, luxury five bedroom family house in the heart of Mayfair, offering over 4500 sq ft of living space which includes a magnificent indoor pool, steam room, gym and private garden as well as two integral garages. FURTHER DETAILS FOR ALL LETTINGS CONTACT: +44 (0)20 3195 9595 lettings@pastor-realestate.com 48 Curzon Street, London, W1J 7UL
www.pastor-realestate.com
FOR SALE: THURLOE PLACE, KNIGHTSBRIDGE, SW7
ÂŁ1,395,000
High Ceilings | Private Balcony | Views of Victoria & Albert Museum | Separate Storage Room | Dual Aspect | Share of Freehold Finished to exacting standards by the current owner, this immaculately presented first floor apartment would make an ideal pied-a-terre or investment purchase. Measuring approximately 544 sq ft (51 sq m), the accommodation comprises 1 double bedroom with custom-made fitted wardrobes, fully-fitted bathroom, reception room with dining area, and semi open-plan kitchen with ample storage. FURTHER DETAILS FOR ALL SALES CONTACT: +44 (0)20 3879 8989 sales@pastor-realestate.com 11 Curzon Street, London, W1J 5HJ
OFFICE SPACE TO LET: GROSVENOR STREET, MAYFAIR, W1K
Price On Application
Grade A Offices | Dedicated Reception | 2 Lifts | Fibre Optic Broadband | Private Terrace | Air Conditioning | Use of Large Courtyard for 2 annual events | Use of Communal Boardroom | 24 Hour Security A stylish high-end, 1,252 sq ft (116.3 sq m) office located on the 3rd floor front of this luxury red brick Georgian building in the heart of Mayfair. The offices provide a large open plan office space with 2 further private offices / meeting rooms and further ancillary space. Green Park, Bond Street and Oxford Street Underground Stations are all within walking distance providing easy access throughout London. FURTHER DETAILS CONTACT: +44 (0)20 3195 9595 commercial@pastor-realestate.com 48 Curzon Street, London, W1J 7UL
FROM MONACO TO LONDON
SALES - LETTINGS - PROPERTY MANAGEMENT - INVESTMENT - COMMERCIAL DEVELOPMENT - ARCHITECTURE - PROJECT MANAGEMENT
8 Elystan Street Chelsea London SW3 3NS T. +44 (0)20 3953 1000 E. contact@pastor–realestate.com
48 Curzon Street Mayfair London W1J 7UL T. +44 (0)20 3195 9595 E. contact@pastor–realestate.com
11 Curzon Street Mayfair London W1J 5HJ T. +44 (0)20 3879 8989 E. contact@pastor–realestate.com
FOR ALL YOUR PROPERTY NEEDS www.pastor-realestate.com
020 3284 1888 mayfair@humberts.com
3284Mayfair 1888 48 Berkeley020 Square, mayfair@humberts.com London W1J 5AX
WilliamStreet Mews Harley Knightsbridge SW7 Marylebone W1G
AskingPrice: Price:£1,900,000 £1,075,000leasehold freehold Guide
48 Berkeley Square, Mayfair London W1J 5AX
A smart one bedroom flat on the ground floor in a portered block. Benefits from underground parking
This unusually large lateral apartment was created This unusually by joininglarge two lateral apartments apartment together, was created includes by bedroom joining two A and smart one flatapartm on th Harley Street William Mews off street parking within mews. 1 Bedroom, 1onReception Room & 1a Bathroom over approx. 2and kitchens, 3 bedrooms and 2the sitting rooms. 2Located kitchens, 3the bedrooms 2nd floor and with 2 sitting lift and rooms. a porter. Located In need on the 2nd floor the wi and off street parking within 550 sqft. Unbeatable Knightsbridge location. of Freehold. EPC: C 33 years remaining. EPC: D Marylebone W1GLeasehold, Knightsbridge SW7 of modernisation. 33 years remaining. ofShare modernisation. EPC: D Leasehold, 550 sqft. Unbeatable Knightsbri Guide Price: £1,900,000 leasehold
Asking Price: £1,075,000 freehold
David Adams Director
David Adams Director
48 Berkeley Square, Mayfair, London W1J 5AX T: 020 3284 1888 E: david.adams@humberts.com
48 Berkeley Square, Mayfair, London W1J 5AX T: 020 3284 1888 E: david.adams@humberts.com
HU0410 Mayfair Mag March 297x210 DPS.indd 1
Stay in touch with us
14/03/2018 8:10 pm
Grosvenor Square, Mayfair The Grosvenor Square Apartments are located in desirable Mayfair, between the wonderful, green, open spaces of Hyde Park and the vibrant, cosmopolitan bustle of the West End. Luxury retailers are a five minute walk away as are many of London’s finest dining experiences.
Pegasi Management Company Limited 207 Sloane Street London SW1X 9QX E: enquiries@pegasi.co.uk | T: +44 (0)207 245 4500 pegasi.co.uk
Kay & Co, 24-25 Albion Street, W2 / @kayandco1982 Buchanans, 5A Porchester Place, W2 / @ buchanans_cheese
The Broker The Cheesemaker The Fine Wine Retailer Connaught Cellars, 8 Porchester Place, W2 / @connaughtcellars
We know our neighbourhoods; from where to find the finest cheese, the best cuts of meat, and beautifully baked bread, to where to get your favourite tipple. For 35 years we’ve helped its residents settle, move and grow their lives in the finest homes in these extraordinary areas. If you’re buying, selling or renting in Bayswater, Hyde Park, Marylebone, Fitzrovia, or King’s Cross, talk to us. It’s what we do. 020 3930 4871 K AYA N D C O . C O M
Lancaster Mews –
B AY S WAT E R W 2
A Newly Refurbished Freehold Mews House £2,950,000
H Y D E PA R K & B AY S WAT E R 020 3930 4871 K AYA N D C O . C O M
–
FREEHOLD
A beautifully refurbished three bedroom, three bathroom mews house benefiting from a wonderful open-plan living space, a large integral garage and air-conditioning. The property has been extended and modernised to a high standard throughout and offers well-balanced modern accommodation of approximately 1,958 sq ft over only three floors. The south-westerly aspect, additional rear windows and powered retractable skylight over the stairwell make this a very bright mews house indeed. Lancaster Mews is a quaint cobbled cul-de-sac located at the heart of Lancaster Gate and Bayswater, just moments from the local shops on Craven Terrace and within walking distance of Hyde Park. The property is conveniently located within 0.2 and 0.4 miles of Lancaster Gate and Paddington stations respectively. EPC Rating: C
Upper Berkeley Street –
MARYLEBONE W1U
A newly refurbished one bedroom apartment on the fourth floor of this popular portered block just off Portman Square. The property benefits from a separate fully fitted kitchen, wood flooring throughout, double bedroom with built in wardrobes, a contemporary bathroom and a balcony off the reception room. A private underground parking space is available by separate negotiation. EPC Rating: C
£1,075,000 –
LEASEHOLD
Nottingham Place –
MARYLEBONE W1U
A charming flat set within a small period building with the advantage of direct lift access, which is in good condition throughout, and benefits from two bedrooms and two bathrooms. Nottingham Place is a quiet street located almost adjacent to the wonderful Marylebone High Street. EPC Rating: C
£1,400,000 –
LEASEHOLD
MARYLEBONE & FITZROVIA 020 3394 0027 K AYA N D C O . C O M
Raising the roof A rare but beautiful find, London’s rooftop gardens command spectacular views of the city skyline and offer a crowning triumph for the summer months
Greybrook House penthouse, Brook Street, W1K, £25m “There are very few real roof gardens in London. Most are generally a small terrace area with a few potted plants, but the penthouse at Greybrook House provides a true oasis above the busy Mayfair streets. The garden has a relaxed dining space, fire pit and a stunning spherical wrought iron archway for climbing plants.” – Peter Wetherell, CEO, Wetherell, wetherell.co.uk
Upper Montagu Street, W1H, £3.95m “This is an excellent six-bedroom Grade II-listed freehold Georgian family house, completely refurbished to an extremely high standard in 2016, offering spectacular living space. The property benefits from a rooftop garden with spectacular views across London. Outside space is in high demand, especially as we go into the summer months.” – Craig Draper, associate, Knight Frank Marylebone, knightfrank.com
property
Brick Street, W1J, £2,100 per week to let “Perched high above Mayfair’s streets sit a vast array of private rooftop terraces. These hidden outdoor areas offer residents a place to sit and relax while watching the world go by, with many playing host to early evening cocktail gatherings in the warmer summer months. Mayfair’s roof terraces remain highly sought after and continue to be fiercely popular with both tenants and purchasers who are willing to pay a premium for sunset views over the capital. “Tucked away from the busy thoroughfare of Piccadilly, this bright, secluded roof terrace is atop a newly refurbished three-bedroom mews house on a quiet cobbled street in the heart of Mayfair.” – David Lee, head of sales, Pastor Real Estate, pastor-realestate.com
Pearson Square, W1T, £9.5m “Amid London’s hustle and bustle, where open green spaces are at a premium, a rooftop garden is the ultimate addition to a property. As we juggle our hectic lives, wellness is
becoming more and more of a priority, with city dwellers in particular seeking homes that offer links to the natural elements. “One of the best examples I’ve seen is this luxurious duplex penthouse in Fitzrovia: a three-bedroom apartment decorated in stone, wood and a wonderful neutral palette, flooded
with light thanks to the floor-toceiling windows. It’s the tremendous rooftop garden terrace, with its living wall and remarkable south westerly views across London’s vibrant skyline that place this fantastic home into a league of its own.” – Becky Fatemi, director, Rokstone, rokstone.com
LU X URY LONDON.CO.UK | 119
Mayfair Showroom 66 Grosvenor Street, London, W1K 3JL 35 offices in central London and over 70 across the capital
Park Lane, W1K £4,675,000
A two double bedroom duplex apartment in a stucco fronted building on Park Lane. The property has a west facing reception room with three large doors giving access to a private terrace and stairs down to the paved garden. There is a separate kitchen and two bathrooms, energy rating c. Dexters Mayfair 020 7590 9590
Queen Anne’s Gate, SW1H £2,900,000
A well-proportioned three bedroom apartment on the second floor of a classically-fronted building. There is a large reception/dining room, a separate kitchen, two bathrooms and a private balcony. The building has attractive communal areas, a lift and daytime porter, energy rating c. Dexters Westminster 020 7590 9570
dexters.co.uk
Hays Mews, W1J £2,450 per week
Located off Berkeley Square, this four bedroom mews apartment has been refurbished to a high standard throughout. There is an open plan double reception room with three south facing windows overlooking Hays Mews and access to the communal garden, energy rating d. Dexters Mayfair 020 7590 9595
Balfour Place, W1K £1,650 per week
Set in the heart of Mayfair, a two bedroom apartment on the first floor of this period building located between Mount Street and Hyde Park. The property has two bathrooms and has been refurbished to a high standard throughout, energy rating d. Dexters Mayfair 020 7590 9595 Tenants fees apply: £180 per tenancy towards administration, £60 reference fee per tenant and £144 for a professional check in (All inc of VAT).
WORLDWIDE REMOVALS UK Residential, European & International Moving
Thank you Abels for a stress free move.
• UK Residential Removals • Worldwide Relocations • Weekly European Removals • Storage Services • Antiques, Fine Art Packing, Storing & Moving • Car Transportation & Storage • Office & Commercial Moving Telephone: 020 3733 3610 E-Mail: enquiries@abels.co.uk Memb No: A001
FS 23942
198656
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E N TE RTAI N I N A P I ECE OF H I S TORY T H E P R I VAT E D I N I N G R O O M AT G A S H O L D E R S LO N D O N
EXTRAORDINARY HO M E S W I TH AMENITIES TH AT INSPIR E FROM £810,000* READY TO MOVE IN TODAY
Photograph of private dining room by Tina Hellier, January 2018 *Price correct at time of going to press.
VISIT OUR NEW SHOW APARTMENTS, business lounge, gym, spa and entertainment suite including private dining room and screening room.
+44 (0)20 7205 2166 | gasholderslondon.co.uk Gasholders, 1 Lewis Cubitt Square, London N1C 4BY
NO ONE NEEDS PERSUADING AS TO WHY THEY SERVICE THEIR CAR, YACHT OR PLANE. BUT THERE HASN’T BEEN AN EQUIVALENT FOR THEIR HOME UNTIL BOLD & REEVES
CONVENIENCE. PEACE OF MIND. VALUE. INFO@BOLDANDREEVES.CO.UK | 020 7408 7590 | BOLDANDREEVES.CO.UK
A LB E RT E M B A N K M E N T
The Corniche Show Apartment bedroom
Live on the finest curve of the river – Move in this year The Corniche on Albert Embankment is an exclusive riverside address comprising highly specified three bedroom apartments occupying a whole floor, overlooking some of London’s iconic landmarks. With an array of facilities featuring a residents’ bar, private dining and roof terraces as well as ten-pin bowling, private cinema and luxury spa and pool. Enjoy a lifestyle that is ahead of the curve.
Four apartments remaining – prices from £6,250,000. Show Apartment now open. To register your interest please call 020 3733 3520 or email corniche.london@stjames.co.uk To discover more visit www.cornichelondon.co.uk or visit our Sales & Marketing Suite Sales & Marketing Suite open daily 10am to 6pm. 21 Albert Embankment, London SE1 7TJ. Prices and details correct at time of going to press. Photography is indicative only.
Proud to be a member of the Berkeley Group of companies
Postcode envy Mayfair has stolen the crown from Knightsbridge as the top postcode in London, as a new report by Wetherell shows
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nightsbridge is no longer London’s top address and is being beaten in the property pricing stakes by rival Mayfair, due to lack of new homes, outdated stock and constrained supply. These are the findings of a new review of London’s ultra prime market by Wetherell. Wetherell commissioned Dataloft, the market intelligence group, to analyse luxury apartment sales prices and lettings values in London’s prime postcodes between 2000 to 2017, using LonRes data and Wetherell local market intelligence. For the first time in 10 years, Mayfair apartment prices have opened up a wide value margin above those of Knightsbridge. For 2017, Mayfair apartment prices averaged £2,378 per sq ft, six per cent above Knightsbridge, which averaged £2,242 per sq ft. Almost 75 per cent of Mayfair sales in 2017 achieved £2,000 per sq ft or higher, with the underperformers explained by very short leases. In 2016, Mayfair apartments averaged £2,314 per sq ft, just one per cent above Knightsbridge, which averaged £2,299 per sq ft. Before 2016, Knightsbridge led strongly on values. In 2014, Mayfair values were six per cent below Knightsbridge. Only in 2007, for a brief period before One Hyde Park sales and marketing went into full swing, were Mayfair prices just one per cent above those of Knightsbridge. Between 2000 and 2007 sometimes Mayfair led, other times Knightsbridge; but One
from top: aerial view of mayfair; one hyde park, knightsbridge
Hyde Park helped give Knightsbridge 10 years of recent market dominance. Now this is changing. The research also shows Mayfair starting to overtake Knightsbridge on price indicators for the most expensive stock. Resales in the One Hyde Park postcode now average £6,344 per sq ft, while new build ultra-prime apartments and penthouses command up to and in excess of £7,000 per sq ft. Wetherell says that there is a similar scenario in the lettings market. The highest rents in Mayfair (W1K postcode) now average £2,026 per week, which is 17 per cent higher compared to Knightsbridge (SW1X). Mayfair’s upward trend bucked the rest of the city, which saw an overall fall in residential values last year. Across the rest of prime central London, average apartment prices in 2017 stood at £1,655 per sq ft, down from £1,704 per sq ft in 2016. Wetherell highlights that Knightsbridge losing its property crown is due to a combination of geography, outdated stock and new supply. While Mayfair has more than 4,360 residential addresses, Knightsbridge has 2,500, making Mayfair a more attractive residential community with more opportunities for redevelopment and growing value. Wetherell states that while Knightsbridge had a spate of super-luxury development more than a decade ago (including One Hans Crescent and One Hyde Park), it has had no mega-development since. Across Mayfair, 15 new developments will deliver 501 super-luxury residences over the next five years. Around 15 per cent of this new development has recently been completed, with the rest scheduled
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for up to 2022. Examples include One Grosvenor Square, Hanover Bond and Audley Square. Wetherell highlights that these new ultra-prime projects have helped shift residential average values in Mayfair to overtake Knightsbridge. In addition, CEO Peter Wetherell believes that what happened to Canary Wharf residential prices when the Jubilee Line extension was constructed will be repeated in Mayfair with the new Elizabeth Line. The Impact of Crossrail Report forecasts that by 2021 stations such as Bond Street will help cause residential prices in the surrounding area to rise by 25 per cent more than average price rises in neighbouring areas. Average Mayfair apartment prices could rise by 2021 to more than £2,600 per sq ft, and top values to £7,875 per sq ft. Wetherell reveals that rising prices and £331 million of deals over the past 12 months have helped boost buyer and vendor/developer confidence and resulted in an 18 per cent improvement in Mayfair sales volumes in 2017. This halted a decline in Mayfair’s sales volumes that had taken place between 2013 to 2016, when transactions fell by 52 per cent.
clockwise, from top right: 43 Reeves Mews, mayfair; clarges mayfair; 14 Half Moon street, mayfair
Between 2016 and 2017, only Knightsbridge and Belgravia saw a similar upturn, while the rest of prime central London witnessed no improvement in sales volumes. “Mayfair was historically London’s richest address,” says Wetherell. “After 1945 many Mayfair homes were turned into offices, and planning priority was given to commercial premises. This, combined with the development of One Hyde Park and other luxury Knightsbridge apartments led to Knightsbridge being the capital’s top address over the past decade. “Five years ago we could see planning permissions and office-to-residential conversions halting the decline in Mayfair, and in January 2014 we took the then bold step of forecasting that Mayfair would eventually overtake Knightsbridge to become London’s most desirable address. “Back in 2014 we calculated that on a range of real estate indices, Mayfair would overtake its rival. At the time agents and developers criticised our forecast and indeed one Knightsbridge developer said in 2014 that Mayfair prices would slow and fall over the coming years. I’m pleased that our forecast has been proven to be accurate.” Wetherell can provide vendors, developers and landlords with a bespoke detailed presentation on the Mayfair and prime central London marketplace, including the findings outlined. To book a presentation, contact Jayne Weldon, 020 7493 6935, wetherell.co.uk
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