The Mayfair Magazine March 2014 - Full magazine by Runwild Media Group

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Contents | The mayfair Magazine

Contents March 2014 040

Fashion

Collection

037 | Style notes The latest fashion-forward coffee-table tomes from Kate Moss to Veruschka

055 | Toughen up Chanel’s edgy but glamorous new jewellery collection, Camélia Galbé, arrives

042 | Look sharp Eyewear from the best as TD Tom Davies launches his flagship store in Sloane Square

Features 020 | Trend report All you need to know about this season’s trends straight from the S/S14 catwalks 026 | What women want The suave French designer, Roland Mouret invites us into his Carlos Place maison 030 | The interview: David Bailey Elle Blakeman meets David Bailey as his new exhibition arrives in London

regulars 012 | Contributors

018 | Couture culture Our latest dispatch on the top books, film and plays of the month

060 | Watch news 044 | Softly, softly Wrap your children up in soft cashmere 045 | Style update

062 | Shh, it’s SIHH The quiet elegance of this year’s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie

046 | Pretty in pink Sixties fashion is revamped in this month’s fashion shoot

066 | The Millionaire The ultimate safe in which to keep your precious metals

119 | Remembering Mayfair: The Wolesley

119

040 | He’s in fashion The reinvention of menswear at London Collections: Men 084 | Boy’s toys The super-cool water toys, from hovercrafts to jet packs to go with your superyacht 090 | She’s electric Richard Yarrow on why Tesla’s electric cars have caught his attention

059 | The colour purple Amethysts are having a fashion moment

043 | Style spy

014 | Editor’s letter 017 | My life in Mayfair: Charlotte Olympia Dellal

057 | Jewellery news

018

046

The Fine Watch Room, Ground Floor

Contents | The mayfair Magazine

Contents March 2014 068

076

Food & Drink Beauty

Travel

079 | Food & drink news A treat from Balthazar and iconic seafood restaurant Wilton’s reopens in St James’s

094 | Good things, small packages Burberry’s new beauty space

105 | Suite dreams: Dewsall Court, Herefordshire

095 | Beauty news

080 | Turning Japanese Gavin Haines spends a day at Roka’s new Mayfair restaurant with executive chef, Hamish Brown under the heat of its Robata grill

096 | Spa review: Michaeljohn

106 | For the journey Travel in style with the latest luggage from Moynat Globe-Trotter and Goyard

083 | Dining out: Lanes of London

067

098 | Backstage beauty Kate Racovolis looks at the latest catwalk beauty trends 100 | Natural beauty Laura Mercier on her philanthropic project

110 | Empire of the sun Kate Racovolis finds out why one resort in the Maldives still has guests flocking to its iconic atolls 114 | City break: Vienna Feel transported to another time in this historic city 117 | Travel news

Property

Art & interiors

152 | Hot property A stunning new residential development on Queen Street

094

156 | An enviable address One Charles Street property is available for purchase

067 | Art news 068 | Exhibition focus: The Glamour of Italian Fashion 1945-2014 at the V&A Museum

158 | Street life Join us on a walking tour of Mayfair’s prime addresses

071 | Prize lots 072 | Statement jewels Christie’s online auction 076 | Interiors news 10

155 | Property news

080

161 | Island home A private island arrives on the market in the Caribbean

ELIZABETH STREET SW1

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Contributors | The mayfair Magazine

MARCH 2014 s issue 030

Editor Elle Blakeman

The

contributors

Deputy Editor Kate Racovolis Art Editor Carol Cordrey Food & Drink Editor Neil Ridley Collection Editor Annabel Harrison Editorial Assistant Andrew Manns Brand Consistency Laddawan Juhong Senior Designer Lisa Wade Production Hugo Wheatley Alex Powell Oscar Viney Editor-in-Chief Kate Harrison Client Relationship Director Kate Oxbrow General Manager Fiona Fenwick Communications Director Loren Penney Head of Finance Elton Hopkins Associate Publisher Sophie Roberts Managing Director Eren Ellwood

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Dominic Nicholls Hailing from the same town as Margaret Thatcher and Sir Isaac Newton, Dominic lives and works in London shooting a mix of fashion and celebrity images. He has been lucky enough to work numerous A-listers, in including Sir Anthony Hopkins and Rod Stewart CBE.

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Gavin Haines

Gavin is a freelance journalist specialising in travel writing, and has been published with the BBC, The Scotsman and National Geographic Traveller. This month he goes behind the scenes at Mayfair’s newest – and most eagerly anticipated – restaurant opening, Rainer Becker’s ROKA.

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cover

On the

jack nicholson (photo: © david bailey)

Stephen Doig

Award-winning fashion writer Stephen has worked for Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar among many more. This month, he reports from the front line of fashion at the London Collections: Men and falls in love with luxury luggage at Mayfair’s new grand dames of the travel world.

Carol Cordrey

Carol is an art critic and editor. She organises the annual London Ice Sculpting Festival and is permanently on the art scene bringing us the latest happenings. This month, she welcomes a touch of Italian glamour to the V&A Musuem and finds some rare shots of supermodel Kate Moss.

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Editor’s Letter | The mayfair Magazine

editorW

From the

EDITOR’S PICKs

#1 Necklace from a selection, Theo Fennell (theofennell.com)

#2 Jacket £999, Christopher Kane (harrods.co.uk)

#3 Heels £585, Rupert Sanderson (harrods.com)

hen I was young and completely ignorant of my mortality, I signed up to skydive in New Zealand; free-falling 12,000 feet out of what was clearly designed to serve as a model plane, strapped to a man who called me ‘Dude’, who charged me just £50 for the privilege. This month, I interviewed David Bailey. When I look back over the most terrifying moments of my life, the skydive won’t even register. Bailey was everything I had been led to believe – brilliant, challenging and with categorically no time for social niceties or clichés. Before fashion was fashion, certainly by today’s definition of iPad-studded front rows, Net-a-Porter and Cara Delevingne’s permanently stuck-out tongue, Bailey and his girlfriend – an unknown model by the name of Jean Shrimpton – caught the eye of that legendary arbiter of style, Vogue editor, Diana Vreeland. What happened next is fashion history, although I’m damned if I can get him to talk about it – he’s done with yesterday; for Bailey life is about never looking back. As the photographer opens his new portraiture show Bailey’s Stardust, sponsored by Hugo Boss – which I am forbidden to call a retrospective – he talks me through what interests him about today (page 30). As March is the issue we dedicate to the increasingly powerful world of fashion, we spent some time with some of Mayfair’s most influential designers, including Roland Mouret (page 26) and the beautiful Charlotte Olympia Dellal (page 17). And to prove that trends aren’t limited to the catwalks, we explore the new gadgets catching the attention of superyacht owners (page 84). Want to fly over the water? We show you how. I might try it myself, I’m suddenly feeling quite fearless.

Elle Blakeman Editor Follow us on Twitter @MayfairMagazine

top: Dolce & gabbana S/S14. SEE PAGE 21; ABOVE: HUGO BOSS, SEE PAGE 40

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The mayfair Magazine | Regulars

My life in MAYFAIR C h a r l o t t e O ly m p i a D e l l a l SHOE DESIGNER

‘A ‘My designs are colourful and feminine with a touch of humour’ – Charlotte Olympia Dellal

FROM TOP: Charlotte Olympia (courtesy of charlotte olympia); THE CONNAUGHT; Vintage perfume bottles and picture frames from Linda Bee at Grays; SHELLSHOCKED BAG; dolly heels; Eastern Cosmic birthday shoes (charlotteolympia.com)

s my motto goes, the higher the heel, the better you feel!’ says Charlotte Olympia Dellal. A fitting mantra for the London-based designer, who wore an eye-wateringly high pair of leopard-print heels to get married in, and made the simple stiletto her own signiture piece, with the now-iconic ‘Dolly’ design, complete with her signature ‘island’ platform – a (usually) gold platform that elegantly sits under the sole of the shoe. Dellal’s playful collections from her brand, Charlotte Olympia, have won her a roll call of celebrity fans, including Sarah Jessica-Parker and Samantha Cameron. Recently, she designed an exclusive pair of shoes for One&Only Resort’s 10th anniversary collection: ‘[They] embrace the unique personality of these idyllic destinations, mixed with the Charlotte Olympia arresting use of colours, textures and feminine design philosophy,’ she says. Always keeping busy, this June will also see the launch of her ‘9 ‘till 5’ collection, which will include ‘classic silhouettes with modern details to glide you through your working day.’ Her first collection of leather bags will also arrive in autumn. So had designing shoes always been her calling? ‘I always knew I wanted to design fashion, but it was in my foundation year that I discovered that I wanted to specialise in footwear and went on to do a degree at Cordwainers in London,’ she says. ‘It was particularly special to learn how to make a pair of shoes. It is very technical and a real craft.’ Fashion royalty (Dellal’s mother is supermodel Andrea Dellal; her sister, the model Alice Dellal), the designer chose Maddox Street as the location of her first store in 2010 after she burst onto the fashion scene in 2008 with her first collection, bringing a new element of fun to luxury footwear. ‘My designs are colourful and feminine with a touch of humour,’ she says. ‘I am especially nostalgic and try to create a mood and feeling for each collection which manifests itself in particular colours, textures, materials and finally the names I give the shoes and bags. I am inspired by so many things from my surroundings as well as imagery, movies and people. I love collecting beautiful things, and I translate this by transforming everyday objects into something wearable.’ Although often, ‘wearable’ means five or so inches of height, Dellal says that every shoe in her collection is tested by herself, to make sure they ‘walk well’ – not that I wouldn’t sacrifice a bit of comfort for shoes like these. ‘I like to create the perfect environment to showcase my collections and I was taken by the charm of this Georgian store,’ she says. ‘I wanted to restore it to its former glory, taking meticulous care to blend the traditional façade with the brand’s own aesthetic. I love the blend of traditional and contemporary and the cosmopolitan feel about Mayfair that is unique to London.’ You may spot Dellal – who will be hard to miss if she is wearing her own designs – at some of her favourite haunts, including The Connaught, Scott’s, or at Grays Antique Market. 17

agenda

books

The music of Mayfair It is supremely Mayfairian to honour the great luminaries of our time. This month, we welcome the annual London Handel Festival, which pays tribute to the iconic German-born composer George Handel in a series of musical events, tours and talks. This year’s festival opens with the first of four performances of Handel’s opera, Arianna in Creta at the Britten Theatre. You can enjoy melodies right from Mayfair, with performances taking place in St George’s Hanover Square and The Grosvenor Chapel – a treat for your senses. 3 March – 18 April (london-handel-festival.com)

Couture culture In the name of fashion, a new film commemorates Yves Saint Laurent’s life and work, and Christian Louboutin unveils a floral spring collection

theatre

Ghosts at Trafalgar Studios

SM Lesley Manville and Jack Lowden by Hugo Glendinning

ichard Eyre’s adaptation of Ibsen’s Ghosts is not easy viewing. At just 90 minutes, with no interval, it races through towards the tragic climax at such a pace that you will be left clutching onto the edge of your seat. Lesley Manville gives the performance of her life as Helene Alving, the mother of Oswald (Jack Lowden). Helene is a widow, haunted by her memories of the past and continually living 18

in fear of the doom to come. The fractured relationship between Helene and her son is at the heart of this play. The pair have to come to terms with the syphilis the son has inherited through the sins of his father. However, rather than merely creating a depressing tone, Eyre has found a great deal of dark humour which makes the production far more watchable. Will Keen hilariously creates Pastor Manders, the self-proclaimed spiritual adviser to the Alvings. His nervous ticks and grating voice suggest he is a man who is convinced of his own rightness while getting things so spectacularly wrong. Eyre’s translation proves that Ibsen’s harrowing narrative is timeless. A world that initially seems so stable is suddenly shattered by the unforgivable past. Until 22 March (trafalgar-studios.co.uk) Words: Daniella Isaacs

THE literary read The News: A User’s Manual by Alain de Botton, £18.99, Hamish Hamilton In his latest book, de Botton explores the effect of the news – both good and bad – on our daily lives. the environment read White Beech by Germaine Greer, £25, Bloomsbury Greer has brought 60 hectares of abandoned dairy farmland to life with her elegant prose and riveting story of how delicate the environment can be. THE FICTION READ & Sons by David Gilbert, £16.99, 4th Estate This ambitious novel explores the importance of family and mortality in this future classic novel. THE culture read Eat, Drink, Nap: Bringing the House Home by Soho House £30, Preface Publishing What better advice to take than that of Soho House. The chic members’ club reveals the secrets to its popularity, from how to cook its food to how to make a bed. THE fame read I Used to be in Pictures: An Untold Story of Hollywood by Austin Mutti-Mewse and Howard Mutti-Mewse, £35, ACC Editions Be transported to the Golden Age in this coffee-table tome that reads like an A-Z of Hollywood’s most iconic stars.

The mayfair Magazine | Regulars

Image: Entertainment One

5 top picks

Mother’s Day

Join us in celebrating our mothers with a little something to say ‘thank you’. When in doubt, any of these elegant gifts will put a smile on her face, from flowers from McQueens at Claridge’s to candles by Welton London and Christian Lacroix

film

Yves Saint Laurent Niney is remarkably tender, and his ability to reproduce Laurent’s passion and severity is uncanny. His soulful performance marks him out as the undoubted star of the piece. The accompanying music to the film is also rather brilliant and Ibrahim Maalouf’s rollercoaster score stirs and lifts throughout the film. Director Jalil Lespert is clearly on a mission to enamour viewers to the late, great designer, and to expose a glimpses of very human triumph and genius as well as his long-lasting melancholia and alienation – he does not disappoint. Yves Saint Laurent arrives at cinemas on 21 March (cineuropa.org)

#2 Relax eye mask, £46, Holistic Silk for Aromatherapy Associates (aromatherapyassociates.com)

#3 Earrings, £192 Jenny Packham (jennypackham.com)

Words: Andrew Manns

Welcome in spring with Christian Louboutin’s new campaign collaboration with photographer Peter Lippmann The spring/summer 2013 collection is available now

e was youthful, he was bashful; his smile and creative prowess awed the fashion world and catapulted him to unnatural fame. This was Yves Saint Laurent, the Algerian-born French designer whose knack for imaginative invention precipitated his ascension to the post of artistic director of the House of Dior at the age of just 21. In this eponymous film, young actor Pierre Niney portrays the Byronic savant while his lover and business partner Pierre Bergé is played by Guillaume Gallienne. The film chronicles Laurent’s career and his complex relationships with his friends, family and country, which are shaped by his experiences and struggles with drugs and acceptance of his sexuality.

#1 Christian Lacroix Maison candle, from £46, Welton London (weltonlondon.com)

#4 Silk scarf, £205, Valentino (harrods.com)

#5 Flowers, from £55, McQueens at Claridge’s (mcqueens.co.uk)

image: Dolce & Gabbana

The mayfair Magazine | Fashion

Trend

REPORT From Dolce & Gabbanaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s embellished details to the Pop-Art prints from Christian Dior and Chanel, we bring you the best of the best from the S/S 14 catwalks w o r ds : k a t e r ac o v o l i s

Dior

Helmut Lang

Victoria Beckham

Antonio Marras (Image by Max Botticelli)

Chanel

Dolce & Gabbana

Missoni

Christopher Kane

Giorgio Armani

art prints

t is no longer enough to have a piece of art hanging on your wall. This season, fashion designers took their paintbrush to the catwalks, turning dresses into gallery-worthy designs. Giorgio Armani and Helmut Lang found inspiration in the soft hues of pastel watercolours, while Céline, Chanel and Victoria Beckham experimented with bold brush strokes in solid, bright colours, from hot pink to yellows and blue. A riot of colour also came from Missoni’s iconic zigzag knitwear and bright leather skirts, which paired unlikely colours in a surprisingly elegant manner. Like Piet Mondrian’s geometric compositions of colour, the collections that stood out were those that balanced shades of a variety of colours.

Matthew WilliamsoN Miu Miu

Dolce & Gabbana

Ralph & Russo Haute Couture

Versace

Marni

Mary Katrantzou

Monique Lhuillier

Preen By Thornton Bregazzi

The mayfair Magazine | Fashion

t is spring; therefore, floral motifs are never more welcome than they are on the S/S14 catwalks. What other time of the year can you wear a pastel-coloured dress, abundant in artful floral patterns, than when the streets of London become green again? This year, there were two distinct styles: floral prints and three-dimensional flowers. In Mary Katrantzouâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature style, digital images of magenta florals with emerald green were printed on to chic structured T-shirts, trousers and dresses, however it was Italian duo Dolce & Gabbana who captured the heady warmth of summer with knee-length, long-sleeved dresses that not only were printed with imagery of blossom, but featured individual flowers as an embellishment â&#x20AC;&#x201C; both soft and romantic in one.

floraL MOTIFS 23

THE NEW TAILORING 24

Sportmax

Diane Von Furstenberg

MaxMara

Jean Paul Gaultier (Image: Patrice Stable p/o Jean Paul Gaultier)

Oscar de la Renta

Jason Wu

Roland Mouret

Giorgio Armani

Donna Karan New York

ollared shirts and pencil skirts have been given a makeover. Although weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d never say no the sleek, chic minimalist lines of a collared shirt, buttoned all the way up, there is something undeniably feminine about breaking the rules of tailoring every now and then. This season saw collars slouch slightly, trousers loosen and skirts become just a little bit more flowing (and so much nicer to twirl in); Donna Karan, the master of draping and relaxed glamour, turned a simple white shirt into a show-stopping piece, with loose man-sized sleeves and a plunging neckline, tucked into a feminine A-line skirt. Meanwhile, Diane Von Furstenberg reminded us why she is the go-to designer for day-to-night looks, showing gorgeous silk shirts with boyish knee-length shorts for a look that was surprisingly ladylike.

The mayfair Magazine | Fashion

Antonio Marras (Image by Max Botticelli)

Valentino Haute Couture

Alexander McQueen

Miu Miu

Roberto Cavalli

Burberry Prorsum

Erdem

Jenny Packham

Lanvin (Copyright Lanvin 2014)

EMBELLISHMENTS

mbellished dresses usually come in the form of heavy metals, a scattering of Swarovski crystals or sequins. Indeed, these did appear on some of the catwalks, such as Burberryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s stunning bejewelled skirts, but some more subtle takes on this look dominated this season. Cleverly, Erdem used individual white feathers to add texture to black lacy dresses, with just the right amount of plume so as not to make its pieces look too bird-like, meanwhile, Valentino created butterflies out of feathers on statement capes â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a soft, whimsical way to enjoy the look.

What women want Roland Mouret shows no sign of slowing down. With a new project on the horizon, we meet the suave French designer in his maison on Mayfair’s Carlos Place to talk about life as a butcher’s son, why he loves women and that dress w o r d s : k at e r a c o v o l i s

oland Mouret knows what women want. Impossibly charming, the trendsetting 53-year-old designer was one of the first to open on Carlos Place – in 2011 – a street now lined with some of fashion’s top names, including Jenny Packham, Nicholas Kirkwood and Solange Azagury-Partridge, picking a prime spot for his six-storey flagship maison, just across the road from The Connaught. Mouret and his team will soon unveil his plans for a brand new project – but for now he remains tight-lipped. ‘I understand that attitude women have,’ he says in his thick French accent, brushing back his groomed hair. ‘That love-hate relationship that women tend to have with themselves. A woman has a sense of being unique from an early age and undergoes that transformation from little girl to woman.’ Sitting with Mouret on an elegant, handpainted couch (that he also designed), I realise that this is a man who genuinely loves women, and all the curves that come with them (a rare thing indeed in the perpetually slim world of fashion). Mouret is a man who is very in tune with women and how they can dress to create their identity. ‘My research was more people wearing clothes than clothes [themselves]. I was more attracted by how you can transform yourself with clothing,’ he says. ‘I think I try to give the ideal dream, that’s my reality. I’m sharing in the life of the woman with my clothes. It’s something really personal, there’s an intimacy.’ Take his 2005 design – the Galaxy Dress – for example. This figure-hugging capped-sleeved piece, reaching just over the knee became one of the most famous silhouettes in contemporary fashion history. Worn to death by celebrities of all shapes, including Victoria Beckham, Dita von

The mayfair Magazine | Feature

Teese and Halle Berry, it became the very definition of power dressing – an amour against the world and never out of place. Thankfully, Mouret did not need to fall in a bathtub with a hairdryer (à la Mel Gibson), to get to know women so well, it’s a talent that he has never been without. The son of a butcher, Mouret grew up in Lourdes, France, where he found beauty in an unlikely place. ‘I hated the position; hated the fact that I was the son of the butcher,’ he says. ‘[But] I had a unique life with texture and material.’ This struck a creative chord from an early age. ‘The butcher apron is one of the most elegant pieces – I had never seen it in uniform,’ he says. ‘And the knives, the metal, and the sharpness – it is such aesthetic work to be a butcher. And the colours too. It was a way to really fill myself with emotion without realising it. ‘I realised a bit later the power of clothing in our society and, as a child, I realised what I was wearing was driving me in certain situations – outfits can make you someone else. I realised really early that clothes… how much freedom they can give you. And because I like to draw, the two of them were merged. You draw people the way they were naked. The attraction was not straightaway clothing – it was more people and the way they were clothed.’ Although Mouret says he does not look to muses for his inspiration, choosing to

focus on glamorous eras gone by, as well as the traditional female form, he does admit there are a some women who have had an impact on his life and collections. He recalls a picture of his mother when she was married, and wondered, ‘Why did she wear a skirt suit?’ and ‘Why wasn’t it a white dress?’ (It was pale blue). He then started thinking about a woman’s figure, and how he wanted to wrap clothes around it. And thus the Galaxy Dress was born, catapulting Mouret into the spotlight, even more than he already was. But typically French, Mouret is not one to cling to celebrity status, nor one to measure success by it. ‘Sometimes designers want to be more famous than their clothes. I have to realise that my job is not to look like a super s**t-hot male designer. But for me, my clothes are more famous than me. ‘When the Galaxy came out, it was a

‘I realised really early that clothes... how much freedom they can give you’ – Roland Mouret relationship of working in three dimensions around the female form,’ he says. ‘That picture of my mum was from the 1950s – that kind of iconic attitude of women. The Galaxy was the first dress I started without knowing how to sew. That dress was always in my mind as a child, that female form, and the Italian movies of the 1950s with Sophia Loren – you 

Feature | The mayfair Magazine

 have all these icons and by the way they move, they remind me of that dress.’ From this inspiration emerged Mouret’s unusual style of designing, draping fabric directly onto a mannequin, as opposed to drawing sketches. All he needs is calico fabric, pins and his hands. But fashion being fashion, this career has not come without drama. In 2005, he became caught up, rather publicly, in a dispute about the rights to the name of his eponymous company, which saw him depart the brand. While he continued to design, it wasn’t until 2010 when he reacquired the rights to his brand, and a year later, he opened his first and only store in Mayfair. ‘For me the best luxury is privacy, and this was the destination,’ he says. ‘You’re not going to have two hundred people passing by here. You will

‘That dress was always in my mind as a child, that female form’ – Roland Mouret have the kind of people who will love the quietness of the street, who can sit in a park, or go to a café or deli. It’s more like a village. I love that mentality of a village – it’s a

London village. The [Mount Street] Deli also reminds me of Breakfast at Tiffany’s.’ Mouret is a master of his métier in luxury fashion. He is the king of collaborations, having designed a body serum with Aromatherapy Associates and a Sky Box. He also took the role of creative director of Parisian shoe brand, Robert Clergerie, in addition to his seasonal collections which now includes a stunning array of accessories (shoes, sunglasses and handbags). Mouret also was quick to enter the world of e-commerce, and was one of the first designers to be sold on Net-a-Porter, beginning with the Cruise S/S04 collection – a smart and move ahead of the opening of his beautiful maison on Carlos Place. So how does he manage to do it all? ‘For me the home is so important – that separation between work,’ he says. ‘I need to have that personality where I am not a designer all the time, I’m Roland again.’ Every day (when he is in London), he retreats to his home in Suffolk, with his husband, his Jack Russell and a peacock called Mario. ‘That’s the great thing, I have the designer life and the man life.’ Roland Mouret, 8 Carlos Place, W1K (rolandmouret.com; 020 7518 0700)

all images courtesy of roland mouret

The Interview:

David Bailey This month, the nation’s most brilliant photographer is opening a new exhibition sponsored by Hugo Boss – just don’t call it a retrospective WORDS: ELLE BLAKEMAN

The mayfair Magazine | Feature

avid Bailey is annoyed. Of course, being David Bailey, this is not an unfamiliar emotion. ‘They’re f***ing robots!’ he says with all the conviction of a religious zealot. The council have just painted a (admittedly pointless) road marking outside the Clerkenwell studio that the photographer and his team have occupied for nearly 30 years (‘at my age that’s not a long time,’ he says with a shrug), and his reaction is typical Bailey – caustic, challenging, with a strong mistrust of the powers that be (‘bunch of educated fools, believing in other educated fools’). My parameters are set from the start – you have 20 minutes, submit questions in advance, and don’t mention the word ‘retrospective’. Of course, these are as futile as the paint now marring the road outside his studio, as no one, least of all a 29-year-old female journalist, is going to tell David Bailey what to do. Bailey’s reputation for defiance more than precedes him, as does his suspicion of reporters (‘journalists get everything wrong – all the time’). While I contemplate if I fall into the ‘educated fools’ category, or indeed, the ‘lying journalist’ one, Bailey has led me to the brown leather sofa in his huge, open studio, called me ‘young and scary’, and demanded to know what I studied and who my parents were. I imagine we’ll get onto my sex life shortly. But he likes The Mayfair Magazine, which is a relief. DB: ‘It’s well printed – not offensive. Unlike some of those female journalists that come along and they make out you’re a chauvinistic pig and all that.’ EB: Did you get a lot of that? DB: Well sometimes. You see the trouble with journalists is I’m only interested in what I do. What I get up to is up to me in a way. But they judge me on my personality, they always write about you and not your work, whereas art critics write about your work. They don’t care if you’re Caravaggio and you go round murdering people, they just judge your by work – that’s

how I want to be judged – not by my sexual exploits. EB: But that’s the interesting stuff behind your work though, surely? DB: Yeah, but wait till I’m dead! Then you can’t hurt anyone’s feelings. Not mine. After being slagged off for 50 years, you get used to it in a way. EB: Well, it would definitely limit what we could print if we could only write about people that were dead. DB: Well, they might as well because you make it up a lot of the time anyway. EB: We try not to, you get sued for that… But of course, if anyone can justify being a ‘tough’ (read: terrifying) interviewee, it’s the man who single-handedly both captured and summed up the Sixties, turned Jean Shrimpton into a model, captured The Beatles and The Stones at the height of global hysteria, and who took his life into his own hands by photographing the notorious Kray brothers. After Bailey is satisfied that I have a sense of humour (by calling me a dysfunctional ex-lawyer and seeing if I agreed – I did), I feel in control enough to get around to the reason I’m here. EB: Tell me about the exhibition. DB: No. It’s a big white place with pictures on the wall. EB: Ah. Did you struggle to pick the pictures? DB: That’s better! As a matter of fact it was really difficult. Remember, it’s not a retrospective, it’s limited to portraiture. I put people in because it’s what I figure is a decent portrait of them. If the portrait’s not good enough I don’t put the picture in just for fame. If you’re famous you won’t get in unless it’s a good picture. EB: Do you find famous people are harder to shoot than non-famous people? DB: I find them all the same really. People who have been famous for a long time are easier. People who get new fame, it goes to their heads. People suddenly get famous at 35 or 40 they’re usually more difficult. They take themselves a 

LEFT: DAVID BAILEY SELF PORTRAIT, NOVEMBER 2013 © DAVID BAILEY

‘I’m definitely capturing a moment, whether it’s the right moment or not is up for discussion’ – David Bailey

The mayfair Magazine | Feature

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: KATE MOSS, 2013; MICK JAGGER; JACK NICHOLSON; CECIL BEATON AND RUDOLF NUREYEV FROM BOX OF PIN UPS, 1965, all © DAVID BAILEY

 bit more seriously, I guess because they’ve always had to struggle. People famous since their twenties are usually okay because they’re sort of used to it. They don’t know the difference because they didn’t know they weren’t famous before. EB: You said you treat everyone the same. Is that difficult to do? Are celebrities more demanding? DB: I don’t do celebrities, I do talent. Who cares what a celebrity thinks. No one’s going to know who they are in ten minutes time. Eb: Do you pay attention to celebrity? DB: No. It’s lucky I grew up with a lot of people, more or less working class. Mick and Kane, Shrimpton, Donovan and Stamp were all mates before any of us were in the phone book. EB: Did that keep everyone grounded? DB: No I don’t think it did anything. It was just something you got used to, you didn’t think about it. EB: What would you do if someone didn’t like their picture? DB: I don’t do anything, I don’t care! What criterion do they have? Why would I listen to what they think? Do they know more about the visual language than I do? I don’t think so. Usually ten or 30 years later they phone up to say “Oh that was the best picture I had, can we have a copy of it”. EB: Do you say “No”? DB: It depends if I like them or not. EB: Is there anyone you haven’t liked? DB: Not really no. Well there’s people I don’t agree with, their politics. Remember I’ve photographed everybody from Stalin to Chairman Mao. I’m interested in the human condition. Just because they’re terrible scumbags you can’t take them out of the equation. They have to be photographed too, or documented, or recorded, or whatever. I don’t know what I do but it seems to work. EB: Do you feel you’re capturing a moment? DB: Well I’m definitely capturing a moment, whether it’s the right moment or not is up for discussion. A quick look at the press sheet for the upcoming exhibition reveals a collection of

undeniably iconic moments: Jerry Hall in her Seventies heyday, all lipstick and legs in a blaze of Californian colour, with Helmut Newton donning her shoe like a Cinderella story rewritten by the fashion world. You’ll see a hauntingly beautiful Catherine Bailey – Bailey’s fourth wife (‘the last Mrs Bailey’) in a gothic, sepia-coloured print, heavily made up, cradling a skull between her arms. And there’s a young Kate Moss, for once close-up, not selling anything, staring unguardedly into the camera, the lack of colour showing off the alabaster skin and razor-sharp cheekbones that have justifiably earned her a living. EB: Did you enjoy looking back while collating this exhibit? DB: Don’t look back. EB: Isn’t that what you’re doing with the exhibition? DB: No, the National Portrait Gallery is. EB: You’re just allowing them too? DB: Yes. EB: Are you a workaholic? DB: Yes. EB: Have you always been? DB: Yes. EB: What inspired you to go into photography in the first place? DB: Being dyslexic I suppose. I never really went to school and they treated me like an idiot anyway. Dyslexics are usually visual or do something that’s not academic. I’ve been painting since I was about three I guess. If I hadn’t done this, I probably would have been a painter or done movies or something. EB: You said you’d be an ‘educated fool’ if you’d stayed in school? DB: Yes, I would, I probably would have. I probably would have been a bank clerk in Ilford or Dagenham. I wasn’t corrupted by school – no that’s wrong – I wasn’t corrupted by educated fools. Thirty people all learning exactly the same thing from probably a teacher that’s misinformed in the first place. EB: I read somewhere you wanted to be 

 famous and a photographer? DB: No, I never said that. Never in my life! That’s not something that would enter my mind. EB: Have you enjoyed being famous? DB: Yes, I can always get a table at a restaurant, that’s about the best thing about it. EB: Is that the best perk of fame? DB: Probably. Otherwise it’s an irritant. EB: How do you feel about the changes in photography since you started? Photoshop for example? DB: Photoshop’s nothing – it isn’t anything. There’s no difference between photography and painting and Photoshop’s just another paintbrush. Don’t you think Raphael used Photoshop? You don’t think when a bourgeois said, “Go and paint that girl in Portugal,” they came back with a realistic painting of that girl? You think they came back and showed her dandruff, herpes and dermatitis? There’s no difference between a Raphael and a Photoshop picture. EB: What about the amount of photographers now, as everyone now has a camera? DB: That’s alright, everyone has a paintbrush. EB: Are you open to it? DB: Well what are they going to do. They can take one great picture in their life and I’ll do two. EB: So you’re still winning? DB: I only have to do one extra one. EB: Do you prefer black and white? DB: Yes actually I do, because it’s instant information. When you look at colour pictures it confuses you with the colour; black and white you can fill your own colour in if you want. EB: The cinema is quite influential in your work… DB: [cuts in] Everything’s influential, my biggest influence without doubt is Walt Disney, and Picasso. EB: Was that a conscious thing? DB: It just happened. When I was a kid, we used to go to the cinema so often. Maybe six times a week sometimes. It was cheap because the three of us used to go, my mum, my sister and me. We used to take bread and jam sandwiches – it was cheaper than putting a shilling in the gas meter to keep warm.

EB: What films did you watch? DB: Disney and lots of film noirs. I saw every film there was, every film. EB: Do you have a favourite image? DB: No, I have things that have influenced me like Picasso’s Mademoiselles and probably St. Theresa, and maybe the first sexy nudes – those images always stayed with me. And photographs like some Bravo’s and Cartier Bresson’s and Brassaï’s. Actually there’s a great new book on Brassaï out now. Are you Jewish? EB: No, Irish. DB: Ah, I grew up with lots of Irish and Jewish people because my dad was a tailor in the East End. You’re catholic? EB: Very lapsed. DB: Difficult being a catholic cause of the guilt. You’d like Graham Green, because of his guilt about everything. The Power and the Glory about a whiskey priest in Mexico – one of best books ever written. EB: Yes, the guilt gets you for life. DB: Well it’s nice and theatrical. It’s nice and camp. And it’s no more ridiculous than the others. In fact, I did a series of paintings about the annunciation. EB: Were you happy with them? DB: No, but I’m never happy with anything so it doesn’t make any difference. The only thing I’m happy with is my wife. EB: You often say you’re not satisfied with your work, is that true? DB: Yes. You should never be satisfied. Once you’re satisfied you should stop. It means you’re not going anywhere. Stravinsky or Duško – I’m not comparing myself to them – but all these people who produced great things were never satisfied. EB: Do you think there’s a lot of snobbery in the art world? DB: There’s a lot of snobbery in all the worlds. It’s not as bad as the fashion world. It’s sillier, I’m not mad about art speak because I find it a bit insulting to my intelligence. Use academic sentences and sound authoratative but half the time it doesn’t mean anything. It’s a bit like those

The mayfair Magazine | Feature

‘It’s just photography. It’s just what I do, I’m not interested in whether you like it’ – David Bailey

ABOVE: JERRY HALL AND HELMUT NEWTON, 1973 © DAVID BAILEY

magazines – they used to say a lot but when you analyse it you can say the whole thing in three sentences – I’m sure they’re paid by the word. Cut to the chase. I don’t need to read ten pages on this, two would have been more than enough. EB: Is there snobbery in the art world about photography? DB: The problem with photography is people say “He’s a photographer”, so immediately Avedon is the same as the paparazzi, whereas in painting you don’t do that. People sort of know the difference between the didgeridoo man (what’s he called? Rolf Harris!) and Damien Hirst – they’ve got an inkling there might be a difference. But photography, they don’t know

the difference. They just group photographers together. I’m not interested in “photography”. EB: Really? DB: No, it’s just photography to me, it’s not art. It’s just what I do. I’m not interested in whether you like it. I won’t do anything unless I can do what I like – I won’t do a job for money. EB: Did you get to a point where you stopped doing that? DB: I’ve sort of always been difficult. Why ask me to do something and then have someone, who’s maybe less qualified, try to tell me what to do. EB: Did that ever cause a problem? DB: Yes, I’ve been arguing with Vogue all my life. EB: You’re probably one of a handful of people that could do that. DB: Don’t think Vogue is some kind of oracle that knows everything. They’re a bunch of hysterical women half the time who are more interested in amusing a little pleat than they 

 are about the look of a woman. I’ve always photographed and looked at the woman. I’ve never done models as models, I’ve done them as people wearing frocks. EB: So you’re not interested in the fashion? DB: Yeah, if it’s great fashion but you know there’s not too many – I’m talking about the originals, Balenciaga or Saint Laurent’s or Chanel’s – around now. They were important because they changed things. EB: Tell me about the Sixties. DB: Oh I never talk about the past. The Sixties… God! EB: Are you fed up with it? DB: No I’m not fed up with it. It was yesterday and I’m not interested in yesterday. I’m interested in now, the moments – nothing before that and nothing after that. EB: But we’re still so obsessed with the Sixties. DB: You’re probably right – everyone takes the caricature of a period. I never went out with a girl with white clothes with white boots and silly hats and zebra [print]… you know, flappers didn’t all look like flappers. It’s always a caricature of a period, there’s no such thing as history anyway, your interview would be completely different if someone else was doing it. So it doesn’t really matter. It’s just trying to get it as close to reality as you possibly can I guess. EB: What about your time in New York [in the Sixties]? Do you have a defining memory? DB: Probably apart from London, New York was the only place I could work. EB: Did you miss London? DB: I don’t miss London, I prefer London, there’s a difference. I’m not mad about the English, the only thing I like about the English is their humour, but I hate their jealousy and hypocrisy. EB: Are there any pictures

of yours that you wish people would stop bringing up? DB: It’s that thing, if you get famous too early for one thing, you get lumbered with it. It happens to everyone: Michael Caine was lumbered with Alfie for a long time; I was lumbered with John Lennon black and white pictures; and Michelangelo was lumbered with a f***ing ceiling. So it goes on and on. EB: Do you think Michelangelo got sick of being asked about the ceiling? DB: He wasn’t a painter Michelangelo. He was a sculptor, he only did it because he was blackmailed by one of the Medicis. I suppose they were like the Saatchis of their time really. Those Medicis, they weren’t the biggest collectors of art or poems or whatever but they were certainly instrumental. Art always goes where the money is, so you know Saatchi did a great thing for British modern art. EB: How do you feel about how the industry’s changed since you’ve been in it? DB: Well you’re doing what they did to Michelangelo and he said I’m not a f***ing ceiling; I did fashion in the Eighties because it was the only way to be creative and get paid. I wasn’t interested in the fashion, like the girls. EB: Is there anyone you wish to photograph that you haven’t? DB: No. Well, I get to photograph anyone I want, more or less, anyway. I could have photographed Picasso a couple of times for French Vogue, but I didn’t really want to meet him in a way, like I didn’t really want to meet Walt Disney. It’s best to try and leave some apples on a tree. ‘Bailey’s Stardust’, sponsored by HUGO BOSS, is on now at the National Portrait Gallery, until 1 June 2014. National Portrait Gallery, St Martin’s Place, WC2H (020 7306 0055; npg.org.uk)

LEFT: CATHERINE BAILEY © DAVID BAILEY

The mayfair Magazine | Fashion

STYLE NOTES WORDS: Bethan Rees

3 #1 Kate Moss The face of British fashion and one of the most well-recognised women in the world, model Kate Moss has just (unbelievably) celebrated her 40th birthday. This retrospective is dedicated to her 26-year career, with revealing text accompanied by images that chart the making of a model. £16.99, by Chris Roberts, published by Carlton Books, available now

#2 Hats by Madame Paulette Madame Paulette was the queen of the milliners and one of the figureheads of 20th century fashion. This book focuses on her career through illustrations of her exquisite creations which regularly adorned the heads of Hepburn and Garbo. £29.95, by Annie Schneider, foreword by Stephen Jones, published by Thames & Hudson on 14 April

1 5

#3 1000 Dresses Fashion Design Resource This book is a must-have for any fashion designer, fashion student, or anyone even vaguely interested in the fashion industry. It’s a comprehensive library of dress styles, documenting all aspects of this attire, illustrated with a catalogue of stunning images for design inspiration. It follows the journey of the dress, how it has evolved and its impact on the fashion world. £16.95, by Tracy Fitzgerald and Alison Taylor, published by Thames & Hudson on 24 March

#4 Why Fashion Matters Head of London College of Fashion Frances Corner guides us through this increasingly global form of self-expression, provocatively challenging contradictions within the fashion world. With mentions of Karl Lagerfeld, and ‘The White Shirt’, the

2 Images: Johnny Moncada

book gives us a unique insight into modern fashion and its unique impact. £9.95, by Frances Corner, published by Thames & Hudson on 14 April

#5 From Vera To Veruschka: The Unseen Photographs German supermodel Veruschka is undoubtedly one of the most iconic figures of 1960s fashion. Now, photographer Johnny Moncada, in his new book, has let us into the model’s glamorous world, publishing forgotten and unseen pictures he had left sealed in a trunk for 40 years. The spectacular images were chosen from a bank of thousands taken over the course of a month-long holiday in Capri and Rome, giving us a rare glimpse of the young Veruschka, or Vera as she was often known. £47.50, by Johnny Moncada, published by Rizzoli on 4 March 37

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hE’S IN

FASHION

At the recent London Collections: Men, British brands reclaimed the term ‘dandy’ with heritage tweeds, Prince of Wales check and military-inspired suits w o r d s : S T E P H E N DO I G

MAIN IMAGE: BURBERRY; ABOVE: Burberry Prorsum Menswear AW 2014; below: burberry

hards of wood arranged like a demented hat around a man’s head. Oversized hockey shirts that draped to the knees like dresses. Bondage-style crop tops. You’d be forgiven for thinking that sometimes London’s cutting-edge menswear is designed with a Central St Martins club kid in mind, rather than the 21st-century, style-conscious guy. But these previous offerings at the city’s bi-annual menswear showcase, London Collections: Men, aren’t the full picture, and what became abundantly clear in this season’s catwalks is that designers are embracing the desire for impeccably made, interesting clothes rather than flash and theatrics. It’s not surprising that substance and solidity should take precedence once more; London is the beating heart of menswear, where the term ‘dandy’ was coined, where the foundations of tailoring were made. Savile Row has been a standard bearer for beautiful bespoke pieces since the 17th century, with new guards bringing their own contemporary twist every decade (for example, Richard James, Ozwald Boateng). This isn’t to say that our menswear fashion scene is one of staid, old-world sameness. London’s fashion schools and thriving street style scene

(which kicked off in the 1980s, way before it was cool) mean that menswear in the capital has embraced innovation and the cutting edge for decades. And now, even the most heritage of houses are balancing history with a sense of modernity. Burberry, that staunchest of British sartorial institutions, continued to re-invent the codes of the house under creative director Christopher Bailey by sending a veritable love letter to the capital down the catwalks. Jackets and scarves came printed in maps of the capital – particularly centering on Mayfair – with nods to William Morris florals and heavy jacquard blanket-like coats woven at Scottish mills. The iconic trench coat was as evident as ever, except this time the lining came in oversized check-print, accessorised with a giant man bag; tradition updated. Richard James was part of the ‘new bespoke’ movement on Savile Row back in the 1990s, so it stands to reason that the master of suiting continues to re-invent traditional suits. Heritage tweeds, Prince of Wales checks and military inspired coats were in evidence, but certain touches – such as metallic lurex evening tuxedos in midnight and maroon, suits in velvet and evening jackets with dipping shawl collars

The mayfair Magazine | Fashion

– gave the collection a contemporary twist. At Gieves & Hawkes, Jason Basmajian continues to push the revered Savile Row institution into the 21st century by adding rich embellishment and texture to classic suiting. Evening jackets came with peacock feather embroidery, patterned tuxedos or jackets in the plushest velvet. This isn’t to say that the house has lost touch with reality. As Basmajian put it; ‘the collection is very wearable and most of the looks can walk off the runway and onto the street or office without being intimidating. I always want to show new cuts, textures, colours, fabrics and ways of breaking a gentleman’s wardrobe down and putting it back together. The challenge is in balancing Savile Row tradition with relevant fashion’. Sleek coats in beige, teal and charcoal, alongside muted suits in classic checks and handsome wools also spoke to the man who needs his suit to work from the City to Berkeley Square. Of course, alongside the city’s biggest power houses, there’s still a bubbling current of menswear talent who are slowly carving out their own territory. Father and son design duo Joe and Charlie Casely-Hayford are a case in point, with the former previously running

‘The challenge is in balancing Savile Row tradition with relevant fashion’ Gieves & Hawkes before founding a menswear label with his son, marrying unrivalled tailoring with a youthful, urban spirit. Casely-Hayford is known for fabric innovation (with many of their textiles made in Japan) and this sense of boundary-breaking was felt in suit jackets and trousers covered

in a Munch-eseque painterly effect. Of course, highfalutin conceptualists have long been a part of the London tapestry, and this menswear offering was no different. Fresh from sending models down his catwalk covered in shards of wood last season, Craig Green’s take-no-prisoners aesthetic saw kaleidoscopic batik print cover loose tops and trousers for autumn, alongside elongated black coats and shroud-like garments that, should they not work down the Crown & Anchor, will at least act as back up if Halloween ever calls for a London Plague doctor outfit. With his retina-scalding tie-dye suits in multi-colour going on to outfit the Scissor Sisters after last season, Matthew Miller’s autumn collection was surprising in its subdued nature. His darkly gothic aesthetic also revealed some beautifully made, wearable neoprene tops, neat jackets and slick leather biker jackets. And when the dark, brooding got all too much, London fashion stalwart Richard Nicoll was on hand for an injection of vivid rainbow-bright pieces in the sunniest yellow, aqua, crimson, mint and berry. Sweeping coats, patterned shirting, floral bombers and logoed sweatshirts in impactful Crayola colours gave the promise that, despite the dreariest London weather, fashion is occasionally a way to trip the light fantastic. (londoncollections.co.uk)

from left: richard james ss 2014; gieves & haWKES; BURBERRY

Look sharp

sn’t it strange: we’ll buy wardrobes full of shoes, suits and bags and yet, when it comes to glasses – arguably the biggest fashion statement you can make – most of us settle with off-the-peg designs and limit ourselves to a single pair. Happily, those looking for some sartorial direction in their eyewear can now go to the new TD Tom Davies flagship store in Sloane Square. With a serious celebrity following (Heston Blumenthal, Angelina Jolie and Kevin Spacey) Davies can offer virtually limitless options in size, shape, colour and material, creating the perfect pair of glasses for your face. Meanwhile, his state-of-the-art clinic (including several high-tech machines only available here in the UK), will work out the ideal prescription to go with them. TD Tom Davies, 54 Sloane Square (tdtomdavies.com)

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advert

style spy manns W O R D S : a n dr e w

Case in point This month, Piquadro, the leather goods company and preferred accessories label of Nicolas Cage, Uma Thurman and Adrien Brody is opening its flagship on Regent Street. Since its inception in Milan in 2002, Piquadro has launched over five international stores, but the London arrival marks the company’s first in the UK. The brand specialises in the textured and the avant-garde (how many times have you seen a sea-green leather briefcase?), with trolleys, backpacks, diaries, and wallets all handmade by tanners in the Italian Apennines. Piquadro, 67 Regent Street, W1B (piquadro.com)

Step into spring With winter but a distant memory, it’s the perfect time to start thinking about spring footwear. Irish-Italian shoe designer O’Keeffe has released a pair of brilliant cobalt shoes that are ideal for the changeable March weather. The double monk-strapped brogues are stellar additions to any formal or casual outfit – wear with white or tan trousers. Bristol Suede Monk-Strap Brogues, £395, O’Keeffe at Mr Porter (mrporter.com)

Biggest in the row Having refurbished its No. 29 place, British Fashion Council award-winner Richard James can now lay claim to being the largest retail space on Savile Row. Among other adjustments – including the odd splash of playful neon yellow and blue – the new shop is helpfully divided into classic and seasonal sections. Look out for a bold summer palette of pastels of pinks, blues, and whites – ideal for the British summer ahead. Richard James, 29 Savile Row, W1S (richardjames.co.uk)

Boss meets boss For S/S14, Hugo Boss has unveiled a new wardrobe of boardwalk-influenced clothing. The house’s headlining pieces all evoke the feeling of weekend horseplay in New Jersey’s Asbury Park where the collection was shown (and the seaside city of ‘the Boss’ Bruce Springsteen). The American-style pork pie hats and leather jackets are complemented by the Boss Green collection – a range of urban wear such as the olive ‘Damon’ trench coat and the suede ‘Sahel’ business bag. Hugo Boss, 122 New Bond Street, W1S 1DT (store-uk.hugoboss.com) 43

Softly softly This season, wrap your miniature Mayfarians in soft cashmere and fresh linens super-light cottons from Milan-based children’s brand, Cashmirino words: amber allison

e all know that you can’t wrap children up in cotton wool – more’s the pity – but no one said anything about cashmere. For skin as delicate as a child’s, you need something extra soft to wrap them up in, which is exactly the idea that led Milan-based designer Maria Busquets to create the world’s very first cashmere children’s brand, Cashmirino. In 2000, after over a decade spent travelling the world, learning from people and traditions in all four corners of the world, Busquets opened Cashmirino with the intent of bringing together both style and quality. Although the brand is focused on beautiful designs, Busquets has a firm belief in dressing children like children. This is why her Mayfair store is awash with pretty pastels, floral-print dresses and chic little separates for girls, while the boys section is perfect for the miniature Mayfair gentleman – white

shirts under smart grey hoodies, cool blue shorts and chunky wool jumpers. Appropriately located in and among the heritage of the Burlington Arcade, stepping into the store is a wonderful exercise in nostalgia, harking back to a time when childhoods lasted longer. While autumn/winter pieces are made with cashmere, the brand has now opened its concept to include other natural fabrics for spring/summer – cottons and linens – combining the soft, protective element with a wearability that children demand – especially when out of their parents’ sight! With the new S/S14 collection now in store, it’s the ideal time to pop in and plan party outfits for the season ahead. Cashmirino 31 Burlington Arcade, W1J (020 7495 0708; cashmirino.com)

‘The boys section is perfect for the miniature Mayfair gentleman’

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Wakeley’s world Amanda Wakeley’s coveted collections have finally settled into their long-awaited Mayfair home. Wakeley’s fashionable followers – including Tracey Emin and Elizabeth Hurley – can now enjoy her elegant collections in her new townhouse boutique on Albemarle Street. Make sure you pop in to see her new S/S14 pieces – we especially love the bold zebra and Amazonian tribal prints – power woman indeed. Amanda Wakeley, 18 Albemarle Street, W1S (020 3691 2982; amandawakeley.com)

style UPDATE ACOVOLIS K E M A N & K AT E R WORDS: ELLE BLA

(Nearly) April showers London? Early Spring? Then it must be time to invest in a new umbrella. Cast away dark, winter pieces and go for something a little more uplifting like this chic, handmade version from London Undercover. Named after our favourite tube, this ‘Jubilee Line’ umbrella is made from a single piece of polished maple wood, along with a double-layered canopy, it is also study enough to battle even the strongest of showers. Umbrella, £165, London Underground (opumo.com)

Shades of cream

French fancy

The S/S14 catwalks were awash with beautiful creams and pinks, which means you will need a new handbag to match. Hit the right note of elegant yet modern with this chic box-shaped version from new London-based brand Aevha. It’s the perfect size to carry your essentials while stopping you from lugging anything unnecessary – you’ll just have to get someone else to carry your spare heels… Mondrial bag, £895, Aevha (aevhalondon.com)

This month, French lingerie label Maison Lejaby are celebrating their 130th anniversary. To mark the occasion, the brand will be hosting pop-up shops at three London Rigby & Peller stores, recreating a Parisianstyle salon and showcasing new lines alongside advertising images dating back to 1884. With everything from a handmade couture collection, using Chantilly and Lyon lace, to the new ‘Elixir’ range for larger cup sizes, this is French luxury at its best. Rigby & Peller, 22A Conduit Street, W1S (maisonlejaby.com)

Picture perfect Fashion is nothing if not controversial, and while nudes and creams are having a moment, thanks to the talents of Greece-born designer Mary Katrantzou, so are digital prints. Her colourful collections – with carefully placed images and patterns, designed to complement the female figure – now take on a new form: shoes. She has teamed up with Gianvito Rossi, one of the masters of beautiful shoes, to create an equally vibrant series of heels. We love these classic pointed-toe versions, which are the perfect finishing touch to a monochrome outfit, or, if you are feeling a little more adventurous, clash with some of Katrantzou’s other prints. Heels, £375, Mary Katrantzou x Gianvito Rossi (marykatrantzou.com)

Pretty in

pink

This season, the catwalks were flush with designers taking inspiration from the Sixties. Channel your inner Stepford Wife with dusky pinks, box handbags and ultra-glamorous accessories S T Y L I S T: C laire K enny p h oto g ra p h er : D ominic N ic h olls

The mayfair Magazine | Fashion

Blouse, £1,370, Chloe (harveynichols.com). Skirt, £505, Chloe (netaporter.com). Shoes, £POA, Markus Lupfer (netaporter.com). Glasses, £310, Cutler and Gross (cutlerandgross.com). Cuff, £95, Lola Rose (lolarose.co.uk). Coat, £355, By Malene Birger (020 7486 0486). Rose gold hoop earrings, £225, Sarah Ho Jewellery (shojewellery.com) 47

Top, £210, Red Valentino, (harveynichols.com). Trousers, £520, Chloe, (netaporter.com). Gloves, £215, Jane Carr (jane-carr.com). Watch, £1950, Baume et Mercier available at thewatchgallery.com. Earrings, £75 from Susan Caplan Vintage (susancaplan.co.uk). Bag, £1395, Smythson (smythson.com). Glasses, £310, Cutler and Gross (cutlerandgross.com). Cuff, £95; thin bracelet, £55; white block, £105; chunky, £115; all Lola Rose (lolarose.co.uk)

The mayfair Magazine | Fashion

Blouse, around £410, YDE by Ole Yde (yde-copenhagen.com). Skirt, £530, Paul & Joe (netaporter.com). Coat, £355, By Malene Birger, (020 7486 0486). Heels, £495, Christian Louboutin (08432 274322). Bag, £265, Angel Jackson (angeljackson.com). Glasses, £31, Mink Pink (asos.com).Necklace, £295, vintage Givenchy at Susan Caplan (susancaplan.co.uk). arrings, £385, vintage Trifari at Susan Caplan (as before). Bracelets, £319, (eshvi.co.uk) 49

Coat, £770, Moschino Cheap and Chic (harveynichols.com). Belt, £395, Burberry Prorsum (burberry.com). Shoes, £375, Rupert Sanderson (rupertsanderson.com). Top, £95, Antipodium (antipodium.com). Bag, £260, Loeffler Randall (my-wardrobe.com). Vintage Chanel Earrings, £375, Susan Caplan (susancaplan.co.uk)

The mayfair Magazine | Fashion

Dress, £755, Paule Ka, (harveynichols.com). Watch, £6,570, Baume et Mercier, (thewatchgallery.com). Bag, £895, Alexander McQueen, (netaporter.com). Earrings, £112, Kara Ross (kararossny.com). Glasses, from a selection, Just Cavalli (justcavalli.com) 51

Trousers, £520, Chloe (netaporter.com). Jacket, £999, Red Valentino, (harveynichols. com). Shoes, £375, Rupert Sanderson (rupertsanderson.com). Bag, £260, Loeffler Randall available from my-wardrobe.com

The mayfair Magazine | Fashion

Dress, £865, Stella McCartney (netaporter.com). Shoes, from a selection, Markus Lupfer (netaporter.com). Rose-gold plated necklace, £395, Eshvi (eshvi.co.uk). Fashion assistant: Joanna Valmai Wills Hair: Timothy David using Joico hair care Make-Up: Cassie steward at LHA represents using Mac cosmetics. Photographer’s assistant: Anna Wilczynska 53

QUINTESSENTIAL BRITISH LEATHER GOODS SINCE 1934

The Pinstripe Collection www.ettinger.co.uk Tel: +44 (0)20 8877 1616

Ettinger Pinstripe Ad Canary Feb12 297x210.indd 1

19/1/12 11:18 AM

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amélia Galbé – Chanel’s most eagerly anticipated fine jewellery collection to date – has at last been released and has already caused quite a stir. The range sees the house’s iconic flower motif reimagined in edgy, oversized black and white ceramic petals, featured on rings, pendants, earrings and an exquisite head jewel in 18-carat white gold with diamonds. The accompanying campaign, entitled WANTED, shows a playful side to the maison as it presents the 13 monochrome pieces in a series of vintage-style mug shots; one image shows the Camélia rings in a Reservoir Dogs spoof line-up, while another has them placed on clenched fists resembling a knuckle duster – warning: this collection is not for the faint-hearted. (chanel.com)

Toughen up 55

RUN WILDbracelet london_UK 13/04/12 09.37 Pagina 2

From the Honeycomb Eternelle Ring Collection

33 Albemarle Street - Mayfair, London WIS 4BP - Tel. 020 7629 5616 MILANO, VENEZIA, FIRENZE, CALA DI VOLPE, CAPRI, PARIS, MONTE CARLO, LONDON, MOSCOW, NEW YORK, CHICAGO, ASPEN, BEVERLY HILLS, TOKYO, OSAKA, HONG KONG, SIDNEY WWW.BUCCELLATI.COM

The mayfair Magazine | Collection

Jewellery news WORDS: OLIVIA SHARPE

Q&A with…

jewellery designer, Bao Bao Wan

Worth its weight in gold To complement his Middle Eastern-inspired S/S 14 collection, designer Matthew Williamson called upon jeweller Azza Fahmy to create a line to match. Long necklaces and bracelets weighted with coins drew reference from ancient talismen, while structural rings featured motifs from Egypt and Persia and cage-like cuffs, inspired by an antique Omani belt, perfectly contrasted with Williamson’s feminine, floating fabrics. Fahmy is well-known on the fashion circuit, having previously created collections for Julien Macdonald and Preen. The nine-piece capsule collection is now available in stores and online and includes neckpieces, earrings, oversized rings and bracelets in sterling silver, gold-plated, or the Azza Fahmy trademarked 18-karat gold on sterling silver. (matthewwilliamson.com)

CUTTING EDGE For its new fine watch and jewellery collection, Emprise, fashion house Louis Vuitton revisited its heritage and took inspiration from its luxury line of trunks, first created in 1854.

‘The trunk’s material elements have been metamorphosed into precious creations: octagonal pendants, rings, bracelets, earrings, a seductive lady’s watch... In the place of beech wood, brass nails or canvas, we find gold, amethysts, lemon or smoky quartz, diamonds and, for certain unique pieces, exceptionally large and vivid stones’

Beijing-born Bao Bao Wan has made a name for herself not just as a jeweller but as a fashionista too, constantly pictured at fashion weeks thanks to her unique style and being a personal friend of the House of Dior. Her jewellery collection makes its exclusive European debut at Harrods this spring. Q: Why jewellery? A: I studied gemology and developed this natural instinct for gemstones. At the time I was trained in photography and French literature, never design, but I had an innate passion for it. Q: Describe your style. A: I create two types of jewellery: ‘Little Ones’ is a collection of tiny charms, which I refer to as ‘24-hour’ jewellery. The trick is to make pieces which are impossible to take off; Li Na won this year’s Australian Open wearing one of my charms, which incidentally she wore at every single match. My fine jewellery collection is extravagant and feminine at the same time. Q: How do your pieces bridge the gap between East and West? A: The Fan brooch from La Brise de La Danse, for example, references the 18th century Chinoiserie movement. This was a key moment when Western art was directly influenced by Chinese culture. Fine Jewellery collection from £4,000 Little Ones collection from £700 Bao Bao Wan, Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor (harrods.com)

(louisvuitton.com) 57

PHOTO BY CHENMAN

This spring, look to the East for inspiration, as Bao Bao Wan makes her European debut

www.bachet.fr

The mayfair Magazine | Collection

#2 #3 #4 #1

The colour

purple

#17

#8 #7

As Emerald Green gives way to Radiant Orchid as Pantone’s Colour of the Year 2014, we pick the top pieces in this most regal of shades

#10 #9

#16

#14

#15 #11

#13

#12

#1 Murano 18-karat yellow gold necklace, from a selection, Marco Bicego (marcobicego.com) #2 Emilia ring, £6,000, Emily H London (emilyhlondon.co.uk) #3 Silver and amethyst swallows brooch, £4,000, Jordan Askill for Gemfields (giftlab.com) #4 Loris necklace, £85, Violet Darkling (violetdarkling.com) #5 Amethyst Opera pendant, £1,950, Astley Clarke (astleyclarke.com) #6 Amethyst Guardian ring, £28,500, Jessica McCormack (jessicamccormack.com) #7 1850s 9-karat gold amethyst rivière necklace, £12,000, Olivia Collings (net-a-porter.com) #8 Diamond and amethyst fringed earrings, £48,000, Jessica McCormack, as before #9 18-carat rose gold and amethyst ring, from a selection, Faraone Mennella (faraonemennella.com) #10 Never Too Light ring, £1,250, Delfina Delettrez (delfinadelettrez.com) #11 Amethyst Bubble ring, £3,795, Heming Jewels (hemingjewels.com) #12 Morganite large Fao drop earrings, £5,250, Astley Clarke (as before) #13 Eternal purple amethyst and peridot bangle, £1,400, Kiki McDonough (kiki.co.uk) #14 Sea Flower 18-karat gold, amethyst and tsavorite ring, £4,620, Ileana Makri (net-a-porter.com) #15 Riva amethyst stick ring, £130, Monica Vinader (monicavinader.com) #16 Emilia short pendant earrings, £7,900, Emily H London (as before) #17 Amethyst pendant, from a selection, Heming Jewels (as before) 59

Collection | The mayfair Magazine

Watch news Treasured timepieces, horological heirlooms and modern masterpieces WORDS: RICHARD BROWN

King of Diamonds Hosted in Monaco since 2010, the European edition of WPHH (World Presentation of Haute Horology) showcases the wares of the brands that fall under the parentage of The Franck Muller Group. Stealing the show this January was Backes & Strauss with its Royal Jester. The perfectly round, 40mm watch features a dial obscured by two rows of baguette diamonds and a single brilliant diamond weighing 1.01 carats in its centre. Crimson hour markers, mounted on crystal disks, sit underneath, in a mechanical timepiece that has a 36-hour power reserve. How many diamonds does the watch have in total? 202 apparently. (backesandstrauss.com)

ONE TO WATCH Each month, we select our timepiece of the moment from the watch world’s most exciting creations

The Tank MC features Cartier’s calibre 1904 MC. This exceptional movement is the first automatic movement entirely developed, manufactured and assembled by Cartier. It is a stunning watch to behold Tank MC, £4,590, Cartier, 175-177 New Bond Street (cartier.co.uk) 60

A shot of adrenaline If you can find a more masculine, testosteroneinfused timepiece than this, we’d like to see it. As manly as Maximus Aurelius and Wolverine rolled into one, Hublot’s new Big Bang Unico All Black is the sort of watch you’d expect the SAS to sport. Totally black, and totally matt, the watch features a skeleton dial, 45.5mm case and automatic flyback chronograph movement. For the first time since the creation of the Big Bang in 2005, the push-buttons are round, each one protected by a push-button guard. The Unico All Black is limited to 500 pieces. Get one, if you think you’re ‘ard enough. Marcus Watches, 170 New Bond Street See-Through Seduction Some of the pluckiest creations showcased at Baselworld each year come not from mega-brands but from a roster of under-the-radar watchmakers exhibiting away from the main halls. There you’ll find brands like Arnold & Son, a watchmaker that stands out from the crowd in creating a new in-house movement for every model it produces. Its latest calibre, the A&S1615, is an extremely thin (4.4mm), pyramid-shaped movement that ‘floats’ between two sapphire crystals in the skeletonised Time Pyramid. The exceptional piece puts Arnold & Son on a par with even the most celebrated of watchmakers and it’s yours for £25,500. (arnoldandson. com)

Swiss movement, English heart

Bespoke ETA 2824-2 Jumping Hour automatic modification by Master Watchmaker Johannes Jahnke / Each piece, of only 250, personally assembled by Johannes and his team in Switzerland / 43mm, surgical grade stainless steel case with sapphire crystal and transparent case back / CITES certified, premium grade, Louisiana alligator deployment strap / 5 year movement guarantee

Showroom at No.1 Park Street, Maidenhead. To arrange a personal appointment, call +44 (0)1628 763040

066_ChristopherWard_Mayfair.indd 1

10/02/2014 16:26

Shh, it’s

SIHH

In contrast to bold and brassy Baselworld, the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie watch fair is all about quiet refinement and hushed, reverential awe, says Alex Doak

f an envelope from Cartier lands on your doormat in early December, you can forget all about Dry January. With the preChristmas party season gearing up and your liver already starting to pack in, all hope of a post-New-Year detox must be put on ice (with a twist) as you succumb once again to the champagne-beige enclaves of Geneva Airport’s vast Palexpo convention centre. For while the location might not exactly scream ‘luxury’, what Cartier has sent you is an invitation to parent group Richemont’s annual showcase of all things ‘haute’ and horological.

And though the idea of sharing four vast, windowless halls with 13,999 other watchindustry professionals and connoisseurs for four days, all pumped on complimentary bubbly and the sheer novelty of not having to drink it with office colleagues or family may not seem entirely refined, it really is. SIHH’s studied calm is exactly why Cartier, Piaget, Baume & Mercier, Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth all broke away from the aircrafthangar jamboree that is Baselworld in 1990, setting up their own trade show at Palexpo. Fast-forward 24 years and we’re up to 16 brands,

The mayfair Magazine | Collection

principally thanks to Richemont Group’s booming portfolio of watch houses, including Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC and Panerai, plus several independent brands, including Audemars Piguet, Richard Mille and Greubel Forsey. Like an English conservation area, all 16 ‘pavilions’ adhere to the fair’s plain-eggshell façade, but venture inside and many still harbour hankerings for Basel-esque theatrics. For example, the decidedly un-shy-and-retiring Roger Dubuis conjoured a bizarre Dr Who scenario of plain-white steampunk mannequins clutching bell jars of watches; around the corner, IWC swapped last year’s Mercedes-AMG-Petronas F1 pitlane for a dizzying ocean diorama of hammerhead sharks and foreboding depths. But primarily, we’re here for the watches. Not only is SIHH the only opportunity you’ll ever have to handle or simply gaze upon the world’s rarest creations before they’re all snapped up and squirrelled away into private collections, but it is also a bellwether for the next year; a sign of things to come at Basel in March and an indication of the industry’s health. Which, incidentally, continues to flout the world economy’s general malaise, if the number of big-hitting connoisseur complications is anything to go by. So here are five things that SIHH taught us this year.

#1 The perpetual calendar is big news in 2014 From Montblanc’s amazing-value £8,300 steel Meisterstück Heritage model to Greubel Forsey’s £456,000 QP à Equation, the perpetual calendar complication was rife throughout the halls of Palexpo this year. It tells you the correct date without ever having to adjust for 28 or 30-day months or even leap years for that matter, thanks to a component inside that only completes a rotation once every four years. There was also Jaeger-LeCoultre’s catchily named ‘Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel’, which pairs the QP with a merry-go-round tourbillon

carriage suspended on a cylindrical balance spring. Also a bizarre, futuristically Aztec offering from Cartier’s Fine Watchmaking division, the Rotonde Astro, again framing a tourbillon with its date indications, but this time as gaping concentric rings rather than separate dials. But it was a back-on-form IWC which unveiled the most unlikely home to its perpetual calendar: an utterly vast 49mm Aquatimer diving watch no less, kitted out with the digital-readout calendar first developed for their Mercedes F1 Ingenieur range last year. There’s no use being pedantic – scuba divers need to know the date as much as racing drivers and the rest of us!

#2 women are better served than ever before The stuffier parts of the Swiss watch industry are still notorious for adopting that old kinder, küche, kirche (children, kitchen, church) attitude when it comes to women and their place in horology, stuck in the belief that she will be happy with a scaled-down men’s watch in pink and covered with diamonds (and, for that matter, not in the least bit bothered about whether it’s a quartz or mechanical movement ticking away inside). But while the gemstones tend to persist (stand and be counted, Ralph Lauren), many brands are responding to women’s escalating spending power, and growing watch knowledge, from tabula rasa. Ultra-techy Richard Mille has always led the feminine charge, compounded this year by its RM 19-01, designed with friend-of-thebrand Natalie Portman. Instead of just 

LEFT: IWC Aquatimer; BELOW: a van cleef & arpels craftsman at work

forming a pretty face, its central spider motif is an integral part of the movement, with the abdomen of the spider actually supporting the bridges of the tourbillon, its legs supporting the two winding barrels. Adjusting the spider’s pivot points micrometre by micrometre, yet still allowing for perfect diamond-setting, is an art form in itself. Across the hall from Mille was Greubel Forsey; its 24 Secondes Tourbillon Contemporain is now set with baguette-cut diamonds of the finest-possible quality (clarity IF, colour D-E), allowing women to buy into not only haute joaillerie but haute horlogerie of the highest order. Meanwhile, Parmigiani is taking the further step of tapping the younger female market with its Tonda Metropolitaine, with rubyred dial and white strap – the most striking of the new, urbanite Metro collection.

#3 The Chronograph is still King While most fans of this original-and-best complication will struggle to think of a single use for their watches’ stopwatch function

beyond timinga boiling egg, the chronograph is nevertheless a permanent fixture throughout any watch brand’s collection. This year was notable for plenty of clean, crisp chronograph watches, uncluttered by tourbillons and the like. Most handsome of all was, yet again, Montblanc’s Meisterstück Heritage collection, celebrating 90 years of the Hamburg brand’s eponymous fountain pen. The bespectacled ‘bicompax’ subdials are an exquisite exercise in restraint and the retro stylings just contemporary enough to pull off with a polo shirt and pair of Ray-Bans. Elsewhere, Baume & Mercier’s one-year-old Clifton collection’s Chronograph Day/Date 43mm was perhaps the most accessible complication of SIHH without feeling cheap, and Panerai’s Radiomir 1940 donned the rose-tinted specs with its OP XXV calibre, based on a classic Minerva movement. Just a glance at its beautifully sculpted movement through the caseback, its column-wheel mechanism and central Y-shaped bridge unshrouded by a winding rotor, is enough to make you go weak at the knees.

The mayfair Magazine | Collection

#4 The mechanics can be as beautiful as the watch The contents of SIHH are of course all about the mechanics and craftsmanship on display but sometimes a watchmaker turns the functional notion of a component completely on its head, making it the star of the show. The two spinning carriages of Roger Dubuis’s Hommage Double Flying Tourbillon could have rested on their laurels but the laurels themselves take centre stage here, the underlying baseplate decorated with a deeply grooved sunray guilloché pattern, requiring six or seven ‘passes’ with a traditional hand-operated rose-engine lathe. Or what about Audemars Piguet’s latest Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon? Its space-age cocktail of ceramic and titanium now extends to the movement’s central upper bridge, painstakingly milled from brittle white ceramic. The coherence of movement and case has never felt more seamless. Should you prefer something more classical, however, trust A. Lange & Söhne to deliver yet another achingly elegant masterpiece. The

Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar Terraluna, is as sober as a grandfather clock from the front, but flip it over and the spinning night sky dial is pure poetry.

#5 ... But simplicity is still a virtue The global recession may have caused little more than a blip on the Swiss watch industry’s steadily escalating export stats, but the lasting, welcome legacy of those austere times is a return to simplicity and watches you can actually wear in the evening without ruining your cuffs (or getting mugged). As masters of the ultra-thin, Piaget has truly upped its game with the thinnest mechanical watch ever made. Cleverly, just as the placky, plucky Swatch watch did in 1983, the 900P does away with a traditional baseplate, instead mounting its components on the caseback itself, bringing its wafer-thin geartrain flush with the dial. The result is slick beyond words. Thankfully this was far from being the only time-only, slimline dress watch at SIHH, but more impressive were the clean and slim numbers that still managed to squeeze in some hardcore mechanics; Vacheron Constantin and its Patrimony Contemporaine UltraThin Calibre 1731 (world’s thinnest minute repeater) and Van Cleef & Arpels, which produced perhaps the finest watch of the whole show. The Midnight Planetarium stopped everyone dead in their tracks, its mesmerising blue dial setting the stage for seven daintily poised celestial bodies: a pink gold sun, Earth in turquoise, Jupiter in blue agate, Venus in chloromelanite, Mars in red jasper, Mercury in serpentine and Saturn in sugilite. If you fail to be utterly beguiled, check your pulse.

FROM LEFT: roger dubuis’ stand at sihh; Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Planetarium

Collection | The mayfair Magazine

xquisitely produced by Portuguese furniture art company, Boca do Lobo, this safety deposit box â&#x20AC;&#x201C; The Millionaire â&#x20AC;&#x201C; will add a stylish accent to any drawing room. Part of a box series inspired by Steampunk literature and the American Gold Rush of 1849, The Millionaire is designed to display the grandeur of a decorative vintage treasure chest. Complete with a rotation system combination lock, this wood, brass, and silver box will ensure that your precious valuables stay perfectly safe. From a selection, Boca do Lobo (bocadolobo.com)

The

Millionaire

The mayfair Magazine | Art

Kate Moss shot by Tom Ford – art doesn’t get more fashionable than that; plus, ART14 returns at last w o r d s : c ar o l c o r d r e y

ART14 returns It was, perhaps, a significant risk launching an art fair in the light of the prevailing economic conditions but, having proved itself to be a resounding success, I expect this year’s ART14 London to be even more popular than the last. Its visitors will range from the casually curious to the committed collector but all of us can look forward to a grand event presenting the widest array of glorious art from over 180 galleries across 42 different countries. Preview images that have provided a powerful stimulant to my enthusiasm for this fair include Yan Lei’s painting of a ballerina in an arresting, non-balletic pose (above: Tang Contemporary) and Cristina de Middel’s surprising photography. ART14 London, sponsored by Citi Private Bank, 28 February – 2 March (artfairslondon.com)

Dynamic duo Some would argue that Kate Moss always looks great in photos, but here, Tom Ford gives us yet another perspective on our iconic fashion model through just three shots that provide insight into the creation of the star that Ms Moss has become. During his tenure as Gucci’s creative director, Ford transformed the brand by injecting it with his distinctive form of contemporary style and glamour. Moss was a key element in achieving that via his shows and campaigns and in 1996 Ford took these previously unpublished photos himself, now up for auction, during a fitting in Milan for Gucci’s SS/97 collection – chic provenance indeed. ‘Auction: Photo Opportunities’, 28 February (bloomsburyauctions.com)

Halcyon Gallery about its Dale Chihuly exhibition

Q: Do you agree with me that Dale Chihuly has revolutionised our perception of hand-blown glass? A: Dale revolutionised the Studio Glass movement and has elevated the perception of glass from the realm of craft to fine art. In the past decade his architectural installations have been seen by more than 12 million visitors around the world. Q: Can you elaborate on its enigmatic title, ‘Beyond the Object’? A: Dale has always been interested in space. For every object or installation he thinks not just of the object itself, but how the object would look in a room. Q: How will the artist dominate the gallery’s ceiling, floor and wall space? A: Visitors will enter the gallery and walk beneath the Persian Pergola Ceiling, an immersive canopy of colour, form and light. This is the first time Chihuly has created a Persian Pergola ceiling for a gallery setting. Also, three of the six new chandeliers created for this exhibition are suspended over floor installations creating dramatic encounters between artwork and space. Q: What and where is the new commission? A: The first artwork commissioned by Harrods, Chihuly’s Amber and Gold chandelier, hangs in the new Grand Hall entrance. The 16-feet-wide chandelier is made up of 1,400 hand-blown glass elements and will include a new diamondesque chandelier piece, the Frond, created for use in the artwork. ‘Dale Chihuly: Beyond the Object.’ 8 February – 5 April (halcyongallery.com)

Images, clockwise from top: Yan Lei’s ‘Landing-Shanghai C’ (2007) will be presented by Tang Contemporary at Art14 London, sponsored by Citi Private Bank. Blue glass chandelier; Cerulean Cobalt Chandelier by Dale Chihuly. All Kate Moss photos by Tom Ford; Dreweatts & Bloomsbury Auctions

Art news

Q&A with…

Exhibition Focus:

The Glamour of Italian Fashion 1945-2014 Pay homage to all of your favourite Italian designers, from Dolce & Gabbana to Salvatore Ferragamo as the V&A celebrates the glamorous history of Italian fashion w o r ds : c a r o l c o r d r e y above: fashion show in Sala Bianca by Archivio Giorgini, 1955 (Photo: G.M. Fadigati, © Giorgini Archive, Florence)

t is commonly accepted that when it comes to looking glamorous, the Italians know how to do it. In fact, they are the ones to bring glamour to a simple black dress, handbag or headscarf, amply demonstrated by iconic actresses and models spanning Elizabeth Taylor to Elizabeth Hurley. Many of their most show-stopping clothes, jewellery and accessories were created by Italian designers such as Valentino, Gucci, Ferragamo and Versace, all of whom who knew how to appeal to and flatter the feminine form. Since the post-war period, their success has burgeoned because of their transition from classic styles to contemporary ones and from Haute Couture to ready-to-wear. In recent decades, veteran designers have

seen young, innovative talent storm onto the Italian scene; some have carved their own path, while others have been absorbed into the traditional fashion houses, such as Tom Ford at Gucci, while others have established their own companies, like Dolce & Gabbana and Miu Miu. The fascinating story of their overall success is captured in The Glamour of Italian Fashion, the V&A’s new exhibition. This museum in the heart of London could not be a more apt location for this event: the V&A houses one of the world’s most comprehensive collections of dresses imaginable. ‘It will chronicle the development of the legendary Italian style,’ says director, Martin Roth. ‘Not only focusing on the familiar, but

The mayfair Magazine | Art

above: Evening dress of embroidered net and matelasse coat, Mila Schön, 1966 (Courtesy Maison Mila Schön); above, right: Elizabeth Taylor wears Bulgari jewellery at the masked ball, Hotel Ca’Rezzonico, Venice, 1967

casting light on the less well-known designers and stories, as well as considering the significant contribution made to the economy by its fashion and textile industries.’ The displays have been amassed from the V&A’s collections and from fashion houses, foundations and private collectors across the globe. They show how the Italian fascination with beautiful, glamorous dress emerged over centuries, developing from the country’s reputation for the highest quality textiles based on the quality of its spinning, dyeing, weaving, cutting and stitching techniques. It also became legendary in training artists to draw the human form so that designers were adept at the best way to dress and enhance women and men from top to toe. Shoes at the exhibition include a selection by Ferragamo who considers footwear to be ‘not only an accessory but a very important element for a whole outfit’. His 1940-47 wedge-formed, multi-coloured patchwork suede creation was hugely popular, as was his woven cellophane sandal from the 1950s which illustrates the designer’s interest in modernity and alternative

materials. In 1987, his Romila style of a court shoe was received very enthusiastically and Ferragamo continued to expand his range, becoming a global, luxury fashion brand today. In the 1950s and 1960s, Italy promoted itself as a direct competitor to the French fashion houses by using salons and catwalk shows to present the best of Italian fabrics and fashion to the rich and famous who included Grace Kelly, Ingrid Bergman and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. The desirability of Italian fashion was underscored during that period by a string of Hollywood films set there, La Dolce Vita and Roman Holiday and the like, made ever more glamorous by Italian couturiers and jewellers. To this day, Milan joins Paris, New York and London in presenting the finest fashion shows by the most admired designers. Among them is the historic jewellery house, Bulgari, and the modern Dolce & Gabbana, both of whom will have some of their landmark pieces in the exhibition: ‘We are extremely proud to show a gown from our first Alta Moda collection that we presented in 2012, as well as the mosaic dress from our last fall/winter collection. Both are a showcase of fine Italian craftsmanship and skilled techniques, said the duo. Here in London, the desirability of Italian fashion is still growing apace according to Judd Crane, director of womenwsear at Selfridge’s: ‘There is a palpable excitement around Italian fashion at the moment. This season we have opened spaces and boutiques for many Italian brands – Valentino, Pucci, Gucci and Roberto Cavalli – which underlines this new direction for Italian fashion.’ It looks like the passion for Italian fashion is set to dominate London in the foreseeable future and in doing so, give a timely boost to the economies of Italy and the UK. ‘The Glamour of Italian Fashion’ 1945 – 2014’ runs from 5 April – 27 July at the V&A museum (vam.ac.uk)

below: Ankle boots, black leather stiletto heels with gold, white and pink embroidery by Dolce & Gabbana, 2000 (all images © Victoria and Albert Museum, London)

www.vgnewtrend.it

ph. Andrea Pancino C

VG Studio at

inspirations vision

style

design

www.idesign-int.com info@inspirationsoftickhill.co.uk Tel: 01302 760040

The mayfair Magazine | Art

BONHAMS | PRIZE LOT Banksy’s Kate Moss

Particulars: Expected Value (item): £25,000 – 35,000 Expected Value (auction): £800,000 – £1,100,000 Estimated Range: £1,000 to £80,000 No. of Lots: 126

e’ve seen Kate Moss in many guises throughout her modelling career. Famed graffiti artist, Banksy, reimagined her in a Marilyn Monroe pop art portrait (left), which forms part of Bonhams’ A Contemporary Edge sale this month. The piece comes signed and dated along with a certificate of authenticity issued by Pest Control Office, and resembles Andy Warhol’s colourful images of an incredible range of celebrities, including, of course, Monroe. Contemporary art buyers, collectors and admirers will also see works by Damien Hirst, who continues his reign as one of the most famous contemporary artists, as well as the Chapman Brothers’ dark yet enchanting pieces, Nigel Coats’s decorative interiors, in addition to a selection of artists’ whose work has never before appeared at auction. All of the funds raised in this sale are being donated to Shape, a charity that helps disabled people participate in the world of art and culture. Art for a good cause? We need no further convincing. (bonhams.com)

Place: Bonhams, New Bond Street Date: 4 March 2014

image: courtesy of bonhams

Statement

jewels

ast year, Christie’s achieved the highest annual result ever for jewellery in the auction house’s history, raising US$678.3 million. Clearly keen to sustain this, the house has announced Statement Jewels – an online-only sale of pieces from their Hong Kong outpost. With estimates starting at HK$2,000 and comprising over 80 lots, including a set of ruby and diamond jewellery from Van Cleef & Arpels, a ruby and diamond watch from Chopard and this stunning suite of jadeite and diamond jewellery, we will be hoovering eagerly over our keyboards this month… (christie’s.com)

The mayfair Magazine | Art

CHRISTIE’S | PRIZE LOT ‘Constitution’ by Jonathan Wateridge

his month the inspiring collection of Les Trois Garçons – Michel Lasserre, Hassan Abdullah and Stefan Karlsson – best known for their Shoreditch restaurant of the same name, goes on sale at Christie’s. The restaurant has long been a celebrity haunt for the likes of Madonna, Nicole Kidman and Gwyneth Paltrow, as well as art luminaries including Damien Hirst and Tracey Emin. The majority of the stellar lots come from their chateâu in the Vendée, The Chateâu de la Goujonnerie, but also includes items from their London home, as well as a small number of iconic objects selected from their thriving

restaurant, including post-war and contemporary art, 20th-century design, sculpture, ceramics, soft furnishings and garden furniture. (christies.com)

Particulars: Expected Value (item): £50,000 – 80,000 Expected Value (auction): £700,000 Estimated Range: £500 – £80,000 No. of Lots: 380 Place: Christie’s, South Kensington Date: 5 March 2014

image: christie’s images ltd.

Just a couple of hours from home. And yet a world away.

w w w. a u s t r i a . i n f o

Yo u r p e r s o n a l H o l i d a y I n f o r m a t i o n L i n e : 0845 101 1818 (calls charged at local rates)

The mayfair Magazine | Art

SOTHEBY’S | PRIZE LOT Al Capone’s Cocktail Shaker

ir Winston Churchill’s armchair, Admiral Lord Nelson’s ‘bachelor teapot’ and Orson Welles’ working draft script for Citizen Kane are just a few of the eclectic mix of lots from The Private Collection of art collector Stanley J. Seeger which will be auctioned at Sotheby’s this month. 1,000 Ways of Seeing offers an insight into modern history, through the beautiful pieces that Seeger collected throughout his travels during his 81-year-life. You can even own a piece of Jurassic history if you bid for the ‘Ten Fossilised Dinosaur Eggs from 100 million BC’, or a jug engraved with RMS Titanic – no matter what your interest or hobby, the collection is filled with exciting curiosities. However, of all the treasures on offer, we can’t resist Al Capone’s Cocktail Shaker – engraved ‘To a regular guy, From The Boys 1932’ – a seriously impressive showpiece in your bar. (sothebys.com)

Particulars: Expected Value (item): £1,000 – £1,500 Expected Value (auction): £3 million – £4.6 million Estimated Range: £30-50 to £80,000-120,000 No. of Lots: 1,000 Place: Sotheby’s Date: 5-6 March 2014

image: © sotheby’s

Collection| The Interiors | Themayfair mayfairMagazine Magazine

Interiors news FINISHING TOUCH In Greek literature, heroes and gods decorated their homes and garments with the image of Medusa to display their noble heritage. With its leaf motifs, blue tinctures, golden accents and centred portrait of a winged medusa, the Versace-Rosenthal porcelain plate celebrates this tradition. Plate, £152 (uk.versace.com)

We’re feeling blue this month in Mayfair, but we’re more than happy about it words: andrew manns

Gifts from the past This month, art dealer and LAPADA member Drew Pritchard has brought his plethora of antiques and vintage miscellanea to the 4th floor East Gallery of Liberty. Among the assortment of nostalgia is a 1950s aluminium tricycle, two Windsor armchairs and a singular leather elephant with ebony tusks. (liberty.co.uk)

Wall to wall Italian scents Fortressed in hand-sculpted ceramic pots and emblazoned with the Solomeo coat of arms, these new candles from Brunello Cucinelli bring a little bit of Italy into your home. When lit, the wooden wicks imitate the soothing sounds of a crackling fire and emit enchanting aromas of ebony and teak – it’s better (and safer!) than an open fire. £150 (boutique.brunellocucinelli.com)

Nothing says elegant quite like grey walls. You need plenty of space and light of course – this is not a trend for the broom cupboard – but it does leave you open to accessorising with almost any colour you wish. We especially love a scattering of gold and silver with this backdrop – exquisite. Wallpaper, from a selection, Farrow & Ball (farrow-ball.com)

578 KINGS ROAD LONDON SW6 2DY WWW.GUINEVERE.CO.UK

+44 (0)20 7736 2917

escape A tranquil oasis amidst the hustle & bustle of Mayfair. A unique dining experience begins as you walk down a tree-lined pathway to reach The Greenhouse. London fades away and calm descends. Michelin-starred chef Arnaud Bignonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s acclaimed light touch with highly flavoured dishes brings a thrilling dimension to classic French cuisine. Make your reservation today at

The Greenhouse, 27a Hayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Mews Mayfair, London, W1J 5NY 020 7499 3331 www.greenhouserestaurant.co.uk reservations@greenhouserestaurant.co.uk

The mayfair Magazine | Food & Drink

Food & Indulge in baked treats or be good and go Paleo? Plus, London’s most glamorous culinary event comes to Mayfair w o r d s : E lle B l a k em a n & A n d r e w M a n n s

Bringing home the baking Haute cuisine boulangerie Balthazar now offers personalised bicycle deliveries of delicious concoctions from its menu. If you’re planning a gathering for your friends you’ll be glad to know that the restaurant has also launched a catering service. Better yet, both dining options are delivered free of charge within the area and are available seven days a week. Balthazar, 4-6 Russell Street, WC2 (balthazarlondon.com)

Guess who? Since 1999, London’s culinary masters have assembled to take part in an event to raise money to support leukaemia. This month, Who’s Cooking Dinner will be held at the Four Seasons Hotel and those in attendance will also have the chance to bid for these legends, including Mark Hix and Richard Corrigan, to cook in their house – let the bidding start! Tables from £6,000, Four Seasons Hotel (whoscookingdinner.com)

The world is your oyster Royal-warranted seafood eatery Wiltons, which closed its doors in December 2013 (much to Mayfair’s collective horror) is back. Thanks to the extensive refurbishment, you can now choose between a traditional meal at a table or a lighter one at the bar. You can also now appease your shellfish cravings well into the night, with the kitchen remaining open until 10:30pm – genius. 55 Jermyn Street, SW1 (wiltons.co.uk)

Easy like Sunday Forgo the roast and end the week with a selection of mouth-watering dishes from Hakkasan. The new Dim Sum Sunday menu includes duck salads, chive dumplings, and spiced prawns as well as a glass of NV Perrier-Jouët Blason Brut Rosé, and a fabulous cocktail, such as the Ginseng Daiquiri. As you enjoy your meal, chill out to the beats of the resident DJ in the Ling Ling lounge and forget that Monday is only a day away. Hakkasan, £58 per person, 8 Hanway Place W1T (hakkasan.com)

Evolved eating Our bodies haven’t really evolved since caveman times – we still respond to stress like we need to run from a wild animal, and we still process food like we need to store it for energy. This is why our modern diets have wreaked havoc on our delicate systems and ever-expanding waistlines. Eat Evolve is a fantastic new delivery service that provides nourishing Paleo food that will leave you both healthy and satisfied. This month, the team are launching a ‘Get the Glow’ package – guaranteed to put a spring in your step! Packages start from £60, Eat Evolve (eatevolve.com) 79

Turning

Japanese When Gavin Haines was invited behind the scenes at the new Roka restaurant in Mayfair, he jumped at the chance â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but he found thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no heat like that of a Japanese kitchen

The mayfair Magazine | Food & Drink

apanese salary men live by a simple maxim – work hard, play harder. So, after a long day at the office, these white-collared capitalists loosen their ties and head to the nearest izakaya – the Japanese equivalent of a pub – where they knock back the booze and quaff dishes of their favourite food. Some head to a karaoke bar afterwards. Others fall asleep on the way home. Suffice to say the izakaya is something of an institution in Japan, and now its influence can be felt here in Mayfair thanks to the awardwinning restaurant group, Roka. Last month it opened a new place in North Audley Street, replacing the blink-and-you-missed it Italian, Banca, which opened and closed in 2013. ‘The concept is based on the izakaya, which is your traditional Japanese pub where salary men go to get drunk and graze on amazing food,’ says group executive chef, Hamish Brown, showing me around the new place. ‘I want this to be a place where people can spend £20 or £200, where they can feel comfortable in a three-piece suit or jeans and a T-shirt. This is a neighbourhood restaurant – our doors are always open.’ Although the Roka concept was inspired by Japanese boozers, it hasn’t become so successful by simply quenching the thirst of London’s own salary men and women – our own pubs have been taking care of that for centuries. No. What Roka founder, Rainer Becker has done with his small restaurants – there are three other restaurants in Canary Wharf, Charlotte Street and Hong Kong, plus another opening in Aldwych this summer – is woo Londoners with his brand of robata cuisine. To the untrained eye, a robata looks pretty much like a barbecue. However, this humble grill is the cornerstone of Japanese gastronomy and the centrepiece to all Roka restaurants.

‘When people think of Japanese food they think sashimi and sushi, but we are changing their perceptions with this,’ says Brown, inviting me into the open-plan kitchen to admire the robata. ‘Other Japanese restaurants in London have them but they tend to be very small, whereas ours is the centrepiece of the restaurant.’ Brown talks more about this famous grill – something about charcoal – but I stop listening because, as he takes me into the heart of the grill, I’m overwhelmed by the heat. My face feels like it’s melting. Cliff Richard’s face would be melting. ‘It can be quite overwhelming when you first walk in,’ admits Brown, as beads of sweat form on my head. ‘I introduce new staff to it slowly.’

‘The concept is based on the izakaya, which is a traditional Japanese pub’ Distancing myself from the business end of the robata, I take a seat at the dining counter surrounding the kitchen. Seemingly immune to the heat, a small team of chefs arrange ingredients onto the grill – there are asparagus spears, fish fillets, chicken skewers and lamb cutlets. The aromas are delicious. Although none of the chefs appear to be from Japan, food orders are barked at them in Japanese, to which they reply with a simple ‘hai’ meaning ‘yes’. I don’t see a single docket in the kitchen, not one slip of paper with an order written on it. ‘We don’t do dockets,’ says Brown, proudly. ‘It’s up to the guys to remember.’ For my point of view, the robata counter offers the best seats in the house. And if you happen to be dining with someone you don’t 

Food & Drink | The mayfair Magazine

 like, you can simply watch the chefs instead. ‘The problem with a lot of Mayfair restaurants is that they get booked up, but we have 28 seats on the robata counter and they can’t be reserved’ says Brown. ‘People can just walk in and wait for a seat.’ We are now approaching what Brown calls the ‘hour of power’ – lunchtime to everyone else – which, as any salary man will tell you, is a perfectly acceptable time of day to start drinking. Flavoured shōchū is my poison. Traditionally distilled from barley or potatoes, this Japanese liquor is far subtler than the more ubiquitous sake and Roka’s bartenders have stamped their creativity on it by infusing bottles of the stuff with lychees, jasmine and strawberries. These exotic flavours mask the true potency of the spirit. I start to feel lightheaded. Diners and drinkers already familiar with Roka’s contemporary Japanese cuisine will find no great surprises on the menu at Mayfair. There are a couple of dishes exclusive to the restaurant – such as rice hotpot with lobster – but the restaurant is sticking to its winning formula. If it ain’t broke… ‘Our priority is consistency,’ explains Brown, his New Zealand accent still strong after nearly a decade in the capital. ‘Our diners know exactly what they are going to get – good food across

the board – so every dish must deliver.’ While its menu remains faithful to the Roka formula, the new Mayfair restaurant has a distinct appearance; the walls are ‘Custard concrete’ (which sounds half tasty), the ceiling is wooden slatted and the bar is made of metal and masculinity. Brown is certain Mayfair will be a hit. ‘Wherever it lands, it’s a success,’ he says, reaching for the chopsticks. I have already beaten him to it and tuck happily into an ambrosial dish of black cod marinated in yuzo miso. As I move on to the lamb cutlets with Korean spice, Brown explains how London’s attitude to Japanese cuisine evolved in recent years. ‘When I came here nine years ago you wouldn’t have had diners trying things like uni (sea urchins), but now they can’t get enough of it,’ he says. ‘London diners are smarter, they demand quality but they also like trying something new. That’s why I love it here.’ Eventually the conversation is killed off by the food – succulent baby back ribs, chunky stems of asparagus and sea bream with ryotei miso and red onion. Small triumphs, all of them. The meal ends with stiff shōchūs and before I know it I’m back on the Piccadilly Line heading to work. But my izakaya experience is not quite over yet and, somewhere under the West End, I slip into a rather authentic salary-man snooze. Roka Mayfair, 30 North Audley Street, W1K (rokarestaurant.com: 020 7305 5644)

The mayfair Magazine | Food & Drink

DINING OUT Lanes of London, Park Lane W ORD S : e l l e b l a k e m a n

hey say that when a man (or woman I assume) is tired of London, he (she) is tired of life. This is due to the unparalleled wealth of life that has always resided within this multicultural city and remains as true today as it did when uttered in 1777 in a discussion over why someone would move here. Lanes of London, the latest addition on the forever Monopoly-associated Park Lane, has based its eclectic menu on this melting-pot concept – unashamedly plucking the best dishes from four foodie areas of London: Indian food from Brick Lane, Middle-Eastern dishes from Edgware Road, Vietnamese ones from Kingsland Road and quintessentially British fare from Portobello Road.

‘I’m told the whisky is “like a slap in the face… but a good one”’

The dishes are all small and designed for sharing, and while I usually love this concept, I struggle to see how these dishes will mix – softshell crab and butter chicken? Pho Bo and chicken liver pate? But the waitress assures us that everything has been selected to complement each other, and dishes are brought out in pairs based on the order that they should be eaten. In the interests of living London life to the full, we order a couple of dishes from each ‘road’. I loved the zingy Vietnamese dishes – a deliciously fresh green papaya salad, with pork and prawns and beautifully marinated pork skewers (enjoyed all the more for the fact that we didn’t have to go to east London for them.) The British dishes were all basic concepts but elegantly served. The beef brisket sliders came with deliciously crunchy roasted bone marrow and horseradish cream, which stopped them being merely ‘mini burgers’ and turned them into something special, although for me, it was the Indian food that really stood out – the creamy butter chicken was full of sophisticated, subtle flavours that only come with truly great Indian food, while the Samosa Chat was the best I’ve ever eaten – I could happily have just ordered six of these. Sadly all of these dishes left Edgware Road out in the cold – the minced lamb skewers were fine, but not a patch on their London counterparts. At the end of the meal, we are encouraged (or, rather, led astray) by Francesco Turrini, the uber-cool Italian bar manager, to sample the extensive cocktail list. I ask him to make whatever he thinks and he hands me one of the most potent whisky drinks known to man, telling me that it is ‘like a slap in the face… but a good one.’ He’s not wrong on either count. So, a variety of world cuisine and a slap in the face, all without leaving Park Lane – with places like this, who could possibly tire of London? Lanes of London, 140 Park Lane, W1K (020 7647 5664; lanesoflondon.com)

boy’S toys

The mayfair Magazine | Feature

If chartering a superyacht isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t quite enough to get the adrenaline pumping then check out some of the cool water toys available to complement your holiday WORDS: NICCI PERIDES

t wasn’t so long ago that the water ‘toys’ onboard superyachts consisted of a pair of flippers, some snorkelling gear and maybe a jet ski. This was thought of as perfectly adequate but, in an age when superyachts are becoming mini islands, the need for more advanced technology to keep guests amused is ever more important. A superyacht, generally considered any yacht over 24 metres in length, needs to keep up with the Joneses, so what happens if the yacht you are particularly fond of doesn’t have the toys you require? No problem. Rent them. Happily today, more and more companies are offering high- tech water toys for charter along with qualified crew if required – so with a wealth of toys to play with – which one will you choose?

The waterjet Think back to the James Bond film Thunderball, when Bond attempted his escape using a jet-propelled backpack. This cool gadget (well, a similar one using water) could be at your disposal should you choose one of the many yachts that have it as part of its toy box, or if not, you can always hire one for the duration of your yacht charter. The Jetlev Flyer – essentially a water-jet powered backpack – enables its user to reach 30 feet in the air and travel at speeds of up to 30 miles per hour. How does it work? The pump system in the floating unit drives water at immense pressure up a pipe to the backpack, which then expels it through two nozzles to create lift. The effect is spectacular, with high-pressure plumes of water firing downwards like those of an Apollo rocket. The JetLev team provides hands–on training through in-water practice and via a radio headphone that fits into the helmet. Most riders have the moves down within minutes and within a few hours most are mastering the more technical maneuvers. It is one of the coolest gadgets around – and if you want one of your own, it will set you back US$68,500 to buy. (jetlev.com)

The hovercraft Hovering a full 12 inches off the water’s surface, the ultra-sleek Marlin ‘Platinum Black’ Edition from Flying Fish Hovercraft is the coolest tender or fun-ride around. Designed with a slick grey/ black finish, the hovercraft can reach speeds of up to 50mph and is equally at home on sea as it is on land. Its exterior maximises its aesthetic appeal by making use of clever reflective materials and its interior is equipped with a carbon fibre dash complete with LED ‘mood’ lighting for its controls. It’s the perfect ride to go ship-to-shore, to cruise the hard-to-reach places when only a tender will do, or to just zip about on the water. If you are feeling a little sedate, the hovercraft will float peacefully when the engines are turned off, perfect for a spot of deep-sea fishing. To own one will set you back £17,200 plus VAT, but the guys over at Flying Fish will be more than happy to talk to you about renting one for a few days. (flyingfishhovercraft.co.uk)

The Helicat This cool new toy has been turning heads at many a yacht show in the past year. The Helicat 22, is to all intents and purposes, a catamaran platform with a helicopter-shaped pod on top, and it is designed to withstand rough water. It is the perfect superyacht companion due to its multifunctional qualities. Being extremely diverse, its uses are almost unlimited on the water, whether you want a cool way to arrive on an island, go fishing, or just ski off the back. The helicopter-design has led many to ask, ‘Does she fly?’ In the air? No. On the water? Yes. She can reach speeds close to 40mph in good conditions. Her basic design is for zipping about on the water, and weighing in at only 730kg she can be stored on your superyacht quite easily. She can fit two people at the moment, but Helicat is looking at adding additional seating later this year. Keep your eyes open for this unusual addition to the superyacht toy box. (helicat.net)

The mayfair Magazine | Feature

The Triton sub Explore Davey Jones’ Locker without getting wet, even with a glass of champagne in hand. The Triton Submersible range is a series of subs designed specifically with superyachts and their guests in mind. The most powerful in the series is the 36,000/3 sub, which is capable of reaching depths of 3,600 feet, carrying one pilot and two passengers thanks to Rayotek’s proprietary technology and manufacturing processes (a high-strength specialty glass to you and me). The others in the series are made using acrylic domes for better visibility during diving (acrylic has the same refractive properties as sea water, meaning the light won’t bend when passing through the two) but using this material limits the possible diving depth to 3300 feet – still deep enough for most, though. Inside all the subs, the pilot controls the systems using a small touch screen panel while passengers kick back with maybe a picnic, made up by the onboard chef, and a glass of something cold while listening to the sounds of their choice, be that an iPod or via the hydrophone to listen to the sounds of the underwater world. Fom US$7-10,000 per operational day.

The One-Man Mini Sub Basically a scooter designed for under the water. The small, compact, lightweight design allows riders to explore the ocean (down to 12m) at a speed of two km/h. The user sits astride the seat, just like on a regular scooter, and feeds their head into the aerated observation bubble. The bubble is fed directly from the oxygen tank located on the front of the scooter. This tank creates an ‘air bubble’ meaning the rider does not need any additional breathing apparatus. All that is needed is a wet suit, a quick orientation lesson and then away you go. The One Man Mini Sub, available form Spycatcher, has successfully passed a ten-year safety test and is highly recognised in the industry as one of the most environmentally friendly diving apparatus on the market. So, 

Feature | The mayfair Magazine

‘Think back to the James Bond film Thunderball, when Bond attempted his escape using a jet-propelled backpack’  tick for the cool factor, tick for doing our bit for the planet and tick for exploring the underworld in your little bubble. And it’s a great one for the ladies too, for diving without even getting your hair wet! One Man Mini Sub, £12,000 (spycatcheronline.co.uk)

The Orcasub – Two Man Submarine Imagine gliding through the water in your own underwater fighter plane – very Tom Cruise. This two-man submarine is capable of reaching depths of up to 6,000 feet. Its design has taken on the concept of ‘underwater flight’ meaning it uses thrust, lift and drag, and then wings and joystick for manoeuvring – much like an airplane. Again, the cockpit is similar to that of a fighter plane, with the pilots encased in one of the two pressurised, perspex domes, allowing for 360-degree views. The controls are located in the front dome and consist of a joystick, rudder pedals, compass and altitude indicator. Not quite a fighter plane, but riders can enjoy the thrill of gliding through the water, doing ‘flybys’ and saluting the large fish that they will pass by. Did I mention that the engine is so quiet; the underwater world hardly

notices you there? Don’t get me wrong though, this is a serious piece of kit and anyone who purchases one will be given thorough training to ensure its impeccable safety record is upheld. Orcasub, from around £1,656,000 (orcasub.com)

The ultimate cool rider A perfect companion to your superyacht is the new 2014 offering from Hunton. The sleek, sexy Hunton XRS43 powerboat dubbed as the ‘Aston Martin of the seas’ offers the ultimate thrill ride from ship to shore, or for just spending a decadent weekend on the French Riviera. Everything about her elegant lines, fine finishes and sporty appeal screams Hunton. Every powerboat to come out of the Hunton’s Hampshire headquarters is custom-made and handcrafted assuring the buyer exquisite attention to detail. The company, with over three decades of experience within the high-spec powerboat racing division, stamps its mark of excellence ensuring each powerboat exudes luxury with an exhilarating performance capacity. Its interior is finished with teak decking, leather upholstery and bespoke design as standard. Reaching speeds of up to 70 knots, the Hunton XRS43 is sure to be the envy of the waters in summer 2014. (hunton.co.uk)

sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s electric Once relegated to the edges of the motoring world, electric cars are now both big business and seriously impressive. Richard Yarrow investigates the latest offering from Tesla

The mayfair Magazine | Motoring

ew car companies have arrived on the scene with such an impact as Tesla. But when your CEO and chief product guru is Elon Musk, the 42-year-old billionaire entrepreneur who developed PayPal, making a splash is a money-no-object occupation. If you thought developing new cars was expensive, don’t forget his other business is called Space Exploration Technologies. New cars cost back-of-the-sofa change compared to rockets. Tesla is all about electric vehicles (EVs) – no surprise when it’s named after the Serbian-born inventor who pioneered the design of the mains power grid. Compact hatchback EVs, such as the Nissan Leaf and Renault Zoe, have been aimed where there is potential for volume sales. Tesla has gone the other way, using the ‘instant maximum torque’ characteristics of the plug-in powertrain to build expensive performanceoriented sports cars. Musk’s thinking is that if you make them desirable enough, people will happily pay the price. The US company’s first effort was the Roadster, an electric two-seater that was based around a Lotus Elise bodyshell. Built from 2008 to 2012, more than 2,000 were sold worldwide. The company’s second car is the Model S and it’s now on sale in the UK, priced from £49,900. While the UK arm is based in Maidenhead, Berkshire, the car is being marketed via Tesla’s only UK showroom. Unsurprisingly it’s in West London. Unconventionally, it’s in the form 

‘Musk’s idea is that if you make them desirable enough, people will happily pay the price’

 of a small retail unit inside Westfield Shopping Centre in Shepherd’s Bush. With people in a buying mood, putting a car dealership next to fashion brands, watch firms and cosmetics companies is an interesting move. And with the Model S parked front and centre, it has a clever trick under its open bonnet to tempt customers over the threshold – there’s no engine. It works, too; visitor data reveals London is the busiest of Tesla’s similar stores across Europe, with average footfall of 11,000 people per month since it opened last October. Instead of the engine, the front end is dominated by a 150-litre storage area, and with a generous hatchback boot behind, the Model S

slowly emerge from the car before you reach them. It’s very slick. But the bodywork is nothing compared to the impact of the interior, dominated by a centre console made entirely from a 17-inch tablet. It controls every function the driver will need, from opening the huge panoramic sunroof and the charging socket hidden in the rear light cluster, to operating the sat-nav, internet, ventilation controls or Bluetooth connectivity. There are actually only two physical buttons on the dashboard, one to open the glovebox and the other to turn on the hazard lights. This is like no other automotive cabin and feels like you’re stepping into the future. The way we’ve adopted iPads and the like means all cars are going to look like this well before Musk is collecting his pension. A high-level fixed arm rest with integrated cup holders fills the area between the front

‘The bodywork is nothing compared to the impact of the interior, dominated by a centre console’

is an exceptionally practical tourer. But what strikes you most from the outside is its contemporary design. My bright red test car featured a bold chrome line round the side glass, repeated below the doors. More evidence of a well-considered product comes with the theatrical way you interact with the Model S. If you have the sculpted Tesla key fob in your pocket, the flush door handles

seats, while anyone familiar with Mercedes’ recent range will recognise the steering wheel-mounted gear selector and the window controls on the door. Firing up a V8 or V12 sports car is often cited as one of the key reasons for buying – the throaty growl puts a smile on your face – but that’s not going to happen with the Tesla. There isn’t even a starter button; the Model S senses you’re in the driver’s seat and have the key, so is immediately ready to go. But that’s really the only disappointment, because in every other way this car is genuinely impressive. Riding on enormous 21-inch alloys, it’s a proper

The mayfair Magazine | Motoring

head-turning presence on the road. Supercarquick from a standing start, depending on which of the three lithium-ion battery options is chosen, it will hit 62mph (100km/h) in just 4.2 seconds. What’s more, this EV isn’t going to be out of juice after 60 miles like some smaller ones. Bigger car equals bigger batteries and while the official range is 310 miles, Tesla says it’s more like 250 in the real world. The Model S feels solidly planted through the corners, the ride is just the right side of harsh, and when you floor the throttle to overtake, the car surges forward with real verve. There is plenty of room in the rear for passengers, and the fit and finish of the interior seems, on the face of it, to be excellent. I will be completely honest and say the quality of the car, in every possible way, far exceeded my expectations. My Model S was left-hand drive but deliveries of right-hand drive cars for the UK are now coming through from the Californian factory. Tesla won’t say exactly how many have been ordered for Britain, revealing only that it’s several hundred. This isn’t some tin-pot manufacturing operation, either; Musk has taken over an unwanted Toyota factory and plans to turn out 1,000 cars a week. One of the key stumbling blocks to EV ownership so far has been the charging infrastructure. In short, there aren’t enough plug-in points yet and getting a full battery can be an overnight experience. Musk has a solution – build his own network of ‘superchargers’ offering enough power for 200 miles in just 20 minutes. There are already 14 in Europe and the UK’s first is likely to be in Kent, so London can link with the rest of the continent. North America has 74 stretching coast to coast. The day after my test drive, an enterprising Tesla owner and his daughter became the first to travel across the USA using only Tesla’s superchargers. It took less than a week and cost nothing because they’re free for Teslas to use. Another glimpse into the future? I wouldn’t bet against it.

Good things, small packages

e can’t get enough of Burberry. Whether opting for an iconic trench, a checked scarf of one of its gorgeous accessories, the British brand knows how to win our hearts (it has done with ease since 1856, when the brand was established). Now, we really can be Burberry-clad from head to toe, with the new Burberry Beauty Box in Covent Garden, which houses its entire beauty collection – including a range of silky, beautifully hued lipsticks and the brand’s much loved fragrances – in addition to sunglasses and an exclusive selection of handbags. There is also a very high-tech Digital Runway Nail Bar where you can try on different colours, as well as beauty styling and one-to-one appointments – get in line ladies. The Burberry Beauty Box, 3a The Market Building, WC2E (020 7785 1721; burberry.com)

The mayfair Magazine | Beauty

Beauty news Want a fresh start without the lengthy time investment? Then do read on… wo r d s : E l l e b L a k e m a n

Out with the old

Quick fix When you’re starved of time – and your body is starting to show it – book in for an hour of pampering at the Spa InterContinental. Its new 60-minute ‘Quick Fix’ menu allows you to choose how you’d like to spend your precious time, whether you need a grooming manicure, a cleansing Elemis facial or a relaxing back massage – grown-up pick ’n’ mix. The treatment finishes with a 20-minute rest, cooconed in a ‘floatation bed’ which will make you both weightless and rested as though you’ve had an extra three hours sleep – bliss. £90 at the Spa InterContinental, (020 7318 8691; spaintercontinentallondon.com)

You’re a smart woman. You know that without a fresh, clean base, you may as well stop right now. So you’ll be thrilled to hear about Chantecaille’s latest launch – an exfoliating cream with bamboo, hibiscus and glycolic acid – which peels back the layers and reveals a brand new start. Bamboo and Hibiscus Exfoliating Cream, £73, Chantecaille, available at Space NK and Liberty.

Lighten up I make no secret of my love for Tom Ford – seriously, I would marry this man in a heartbeat. This season, Ford’s ever covetable make-up has managed to carve yet another space in my heart, with chic nudes, delicious corals and delicate feminine pinks, all with names like ‘Firecracker’ and ‘In the Buff’ – the love story continues… Nail Lacquer, £26, Tom Ford, available at Harrods

English rose The right cream blush can completely change your look, taking you from ‘woman on the edge’ to ‘youthful summer beauty’ in a flash. This new version from Clarins is hydrating, easy to apply and hits just the right note of subtle colour and light, natural-looking finish. Multi-Blush Cream Blush, £18, Clarins, available at Harrods

Nightcap You’d like great skin, but you’re busy. I understand. And so does Crème de la Mer, hence its new Lifting and Firming Mask, which with it’s concentrated lifting ferment, works with the skin’s own renewal process to give you fuller, firmer skin in just ten short minutes. Do it at night when your skin is already in repair mode and if you’re really serious, follow with the brand’s new Lifting Contour Serum to transform the definition of your face, without the drastic measures. The Lifting and Firming Mask, £150, Crème de la Mer, available at Selfridges 95

Beauty | The mayfair Magazine

Spa review Michealjohn, Albemarle Street W O RDS : E LL E BLAK E MAN

’m a nightmare when it comes to getting anything done to my hair. My hair is my thing – it enters the room 30 seconds before I do. And I’ve been through enough ‘Oh we’ll just take a bit off the bottom’ moments, where I leave looking like Sinéad O’Connor, to fear hairdressers more I than I fear men lurking on street corners. I tell you this not to show off about my mad, thick Irish hair, but to explain why, for me, going to the hairdressers is a Very Big Deal. And if I’m going to trust anyone near my crowning glory, the beautiful, airy Michaeljohn salon on Albemarle Street is a good place to start. Anna Wintour comes here, as does Roger Federer – both people whose hair I have the upmost respect for. The place is so beautiful – white décor and full of flowers – I start to feel slightly less like bolting. I inform Neave, my stylist, of my fear of her profession and she nods sagely. I explain what I want, which went something along the lines of: ‘Blonde, but not blonde blonde, just you know a bit blonde. But not boring blonde. Just nice, you know?’ Somehow, I believe that she gets it, and she sets off to work mixing and painting foils. While I’m having this done, one of London’s most eligible bachelors walks in (I’m sworn to secrecy) and I’m impressed that Neave and her colleagues manage to keep their cool – it’s either a regular occurrence or they know how to act. Either way it’s a good sign for those who value their privacy. Neave’s mind-reading works, and two hours later, I leave with the perfect, expensive-looking blonde that was completely outside of my verbal powers of communication. The poor girl, she doesn’t realise she’s now made a friend for life. Michealjohn, 25 Albemarle Street, Mayfair, W1S (michaeljohn.co.uk; 020 7629 6969)

Captivate Your Senses The first internationally-acclaimed Chuan Spa in Europe is now open at The Langham, London. Rediscover your source with luxurious treatments inspired by the philosophy of Traditional Chinese Medicine.

The Langham, London 1c Port land Place, Regent Street, London W1B 1JA T 44 (0) 20 7973 7550

tllon.info@chuanspa.com

www.chuanspa.co.uk

AUCKLAND • BOSTON • HONG KONG • LONDON • LOS ANGELES • MELBOURNE • SHANGHAI

ChuanSpa ExclusiveMag.indd 1

15/3/11 13:35:46

Helmut Lang

Backstage Beauty Neon lips or pastel eyes? Our guide to the top beauty trends for the season… w o r d s : k at e r a c o v o l i s

pretty in pastel

S/S catwalks inevitably bring a fresh burst of colour to our wardrobes, something that is often mirrored in make-up trends. This season, the focus is on the eyes, brightening the face with chic pastel hues, seen best at Oscar de la Renta, who encapsulated this soft look perfectly with a light layer of a beige-tinged mauve on the upper and lower eyelids of its models. Meanwhile, Burberry Prorsum also used pastel hues to their full potential, to match a collection full of baby blues, bright pinks and cool greens. To get the look, try the Kaleidoscope Eye Kit from Le Métier de Beauté. It comes with four shades; a shimmery pink, taupe, matte mauve and dark navy for after dark and the colours work beautifully together or on their own. However you wear them, make sure you finish with a brush of Bobbi Brown’s Smokey Eye Mascara – our favourite new mascara. Kaleidoscope Eye Kit in ‘Carnaby Street’, £90, Le Métier de Beauté (net-a-porter.com). Smokey Eye Mascara, £22, Bobbi Brown (bobbibrown.co.uk)

Oscar de la Renta

straight up Yes, there were intricate up-dos, voluminous curls, and (gasp) even uber-frizzy hair that graced the runways, but it was the chic, unfussy straight style from Donna Karan that caught our eye; after all, a sleek straight mane will never fail you. To recreate this without the stylist, there are two trusty products you need in your armour – the ghd eclipse® straightener, which allows you to style your hair more quickly with less heat, and Rahua’s Elixir, which repairs damaged hair. For those who demand poker-straight hair, why not add a slick of its Hair Wax which will guarantee a neat, glossy look. Of course, Ms Karan wasn’t the only one to go straight: Balenciaga, Chloé and Monique Lhuillier also reminded us that sometimes less is more. Straightener, £145, ghd eclipse® (ghdhair.com). Hair Elixir, £140 and Hair Wax, £27, both Rahua (urbanretreat.co.uk)

Donna Karan

The mayfair Magazine | Beauty

natural woman How do we love a natural complexion? Let us count the ways. We loved it at Victoria Beckham, at Alberta Ferretti and at Alexander McQueen for a start. To compete with the best, you need to begin with an even, blank canvas, one that looks as though you are not wearing any make-up (we won’t tell). Begin with SkinCeuticals Retexturing Activator serum which works to repair and replenish vital nutrients to your skin, followed by the latest fail-safe product from By Terry, a serum-meets-foundation that works like a dream, perfecting skin tone while protecting your skin and leaving you with a beautiful glow – the ideal no-make-up make-up. If you can bare it (pun intended) leave your eyes alone (if you can’t, just add a very fine coat of brown mascara) and finish with a swipe of Tom Ford’s beautifully subtle ‘Pink Dune’ lip colour. Et voilà. Now practice saying ‘Oh no, I’m just lucky with my skin…’ Cellularose Brightening CC Lumi Serum in ‘Apricot Glow’, £59, By Terry (spacenk.com). Lipstick in ‘Pink Dune’, £36, Tom Ford, available from Harrods. Retexturing Activator, £75, SkinCeuticals (skinceuticals. co.uk)

A touch of highlighter can turn a nice complexion into a beautiful one. They help your cheekbones and eyes to catch just the right amount of light, giving your skin that supermodel glow, just as on the catwalks. Valentino made the most of it during its S/S14 collection – the perfect go-to look for any time of the day. Meanwhile Erdem offered a more ethereal take, using a silvery colour just above the cheekbones, below the outer corners of the eye and up around to the eyebrow . To copy this most angelic of looks, try Charlotte Tilbury’s ‘Filmstar Bronze & Glow’, or for a touch of pink, the new ‘Ambient Lighting Blush’ by Hourglass combines just the right amount of glow with pigments of rosy pinks. Filmstar Bronze & Glow, £49, Charlotte Tilbury (charlottetilbury.com). Ambient Lighting Blush in Ethereal Glow, £28, Hourglass (liberty.co.uk)

NEON jungle

DSQUARED2

There is no time like spring to try a new lipstick and its so much easier to experiment with than with clothes. Taking advantage of this fact, Dsquared2 boldly opted for a neon orange lip colour to match its equally luminous collection, as did Prabal Gurung and Rag & Bone. It’s not for everyone, but this youthful look has a real element of fun. Peachy colours are the most universally wearable and will stop you looking as though your lips have been lit with an actual neon light. Or, if you’re feeling brave, go for Ilia’s magenta ‘Neon Angel’ lipstick. Satin Lip Pencil in ‘Timanfaya’, £18, Nars (narscosmetics.co.uk). Lipstick in ‘Neon Angel’, £22, Ilia (beingcontent.com)

Erdem

Alberta Ferretti

light up the night

Natural

beauty She’s the artist behind the original ‘flawless face’ concept. Now, Laura Mercier is turning her talents to philanthropy, as she launches three colour products to raise money for the Laura Mercier Ovarian Cancer Fund wo r d s : e l l e b l a k e m a n

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The mayfair Magazine | Beauty

here isn’t a woman alive who doesn’t dream of flawless skin. For those who have mastered it, either naturally or with a little cosmetic help – the result is akin to discovering the elixir of youth – without aging pigmentation, pores and blemishes you can stay forever young, at least as far as the mirror is concerned. Laura Mercier has built an empire upon this simple concept – helping women to get a perfect canvas before they add colour – earning her a global reputation for her eponymous make-up range. ‘I always believed there was enormous potential and I knew my line could fill a void in the market. It ended up resonating with the global consumer but I certainly did not anticipate such a success,’ says Mercier. ‘I had this entire concept around my belief that making the skin look flawless is the first and most important thing a woman can do to achieve a great look. The search for products that would help every woman achieve her own version of flawless was, and still is, my inspiration when creating products.’ Having been brought up in the south of France and educated in Paris before heading to work in the United States as a professional make-up artist, working with everyone from Madonna to photographer Steve Meisel, Mercier has clear influences throughout her line, from the elegant Parisians to the ultragroomed New Yorkers. ‘Many of my products were influenced by where I lived and the cultures I was surrounded by – for example, Tinted Moisturizer is a very French cosmetic and you can find it anywhere there – in drugstores, perfumeries and pharmacies – that’s how I came to be a pioneer in developing our

Tinted Moisturizer and bringing it to the America. In addition, red lipstick is a signature part of a French women’s look and is considered your signature. So this highly influenced me in my love of a bright, bold lip.’ This month, Mercier is launching the Laura Mercier Ovarian Cancer Fund, something that she was inspired to do when a close friend was diagnosed with the disease. Along with President and CEO of Gurwitch Products, Claudia Poccia, who tragically also lost her sister to the illness, Mercier has launched a range of products – a lip glaze, a radiance-giving blusher and a chic all-in-one pallete – with 100% of the profits going to the Laura Mercier Ovarian Cancer Fund. ‘I am not only flooded with inspirational testaments, but I have close friends battling the disease, so I am aware of the daily battle that

‘I always believed there was enormous potential and I knew my line could fill a void in the market’ these women undergo personally,’ says Mercier. ‘My biggest hope for the Laura Mercier Ovarian Cancer Fund is simple raising awareness so that we bring attention to this deadly, hiding disease.’ This month marks Ovarian Cancer month in the UK, and the disease is now the fifth most common cancer affecting women in this country. All products available nationwide from 1 March from Laura Mericer (lauramercier.com) ‘Bonne Mine Healthy Glow’ for Face & Cheeks Crème Colour Palette, £37; ‘Kiss of Hope’ Lip Glace - £19; Matte Radience Healthy Glow Bakes Powder & Mini Face Brush, £24, all Laura Mercier (lauramercier.com)

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Every woman As part of Ovarian Cancer Awareness Month, Consultant Gynaecologist at The Wellington Hospital, Ms Christina Fotopoulou discusses the testing and treatments available

varian cancer is the fifth most common cancer amongst women with 6,500 new cases in the UK each year. The latest data shows that one in 43 women will develop ovarian cancer during their lifetime with the high risk age for developing the disease between 60 and 65 years old. Some women can have an inherited predisposition to ovarian cancer, often carrying specific inherited mutations in genes called BRCA1 and BRCA2. In women with these predispositions, the disease often occurs at a younger age, typically in their 40s. Symptoms often change depending on how advanced the cancer is, so it is important to go and see your GP as soon as you experience any of the following: • Pelvic/abdominal pain and bloating • Lower tummy and back pain • Urinary urgency/frequency • Loss of appetite or feeling full • Constipation • Pain during sex • Irregular periods or bleeding post menopause • Feeling or being sick • Shortness of breath • Tiredness • Noticeable swelling of the abdomen

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The mayfair Magazine | Health Promotion

Testing In the first instance, as with many cancers, the earlier in which you seek medical advice from your GP or specialist, the more effective the treatment will be. Your GP will ask you about any symptoms you may have and may also take some blood tests and wish to perform an internal examination. Following this, you may be referred to a specialist who will conduct more tests at hospital. This may include an internal examination and further testing. These tests include a blood test for CA125, a protein produced by some ovarian cancers, an ultrasound and occasionally, a CT scan. A diagnosis will then be given including stage and type of ovarian cancer, if present.

Treatment The most common types of treatment are surgery and chemotherapy, degrees of which will be decided depending on the stage of the ovarian cancer. Stage one disease and more favourable histologic subgrades may only need surgery. Other factors that are taken into consideration are the type of ovarian cancer, how the cells look and also your general health. You may have surgery as your first treatment for the ovarian cancer, a decision which is made based on the spread and growth of the cancer. During surgery, the Consultant Gynaecological Oncologist will remove as much of the cancer as possible. Surgery may in some cases need to be extensive in terms of removing the tumor when involving the abdominal skin layers. Chemotherapy is prescribed for the shrinking of any cancer or to reduce the risk of the cancer returning. Sometimes, in cases of very advanced disease or poor general condition, a decision will be made at diagnosis to treat with chemotherapy first, so that surgery upfront will not be possible. Similarly, in addition to surgical and chemotherapy treatment options, new targeted therapies are emerging that include drugs targeting the blood vessels that feed the tumour

(anti-angiogenic drugs) and those that target genetic deficiencies (PARP and DNA repair inhibitors).

Recovery Even with late diagnosis, patients often benefit from the combination of surgery with chemotherapy. Studies have shown that the survival rate of patients who have had tumours completely removed during surgery are two to three times longer than cases where the disease was not completely removed. The choice of the right chemotherapy has been shown to bring additional survival benefit. For surgery alone without chemotherapy, there is a 12 per cent five year survival rate. However, this figure approaches 60-65 per cent for the same period, when chemotherapy is also given. Additionaly, it has been shown that the associated tumour clearance and also surgical complication rates can be significantly reduced in the hands of specialised Gynaecological Oncologists. For that reason the quality of both surgery and chemotherapy are important for overall survival and cure rates. For further information or if you would like to arrange an appointment with a Gynaecological Oncologist at The Wellington Hospital, please contact the hospital Enquiry Helpline on 020 7483 5004 or visit thewellingtonhospital.com

Meet the Specialist Ms Christina Fotopoulou, MD PhD, is a Consultant Gynecological Oncologist and Adjunct Professor in the Imperial College London Healthcare Trust in Queen Charlottes Hospital in London and Ovarian Cancer Action Research centre. Her principal area of clinical practice is in exenterative procedures for advanced forms of pelvic malignancies and in the cytoreductive debulking of primary or relapsed ovarian cancer.

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Your Heart

in Your Hands When you lead a busy life, sometimes the hardest thing to admit is a problem with your health.

Think about your heart this month and make an appointment 020 7483 5004

If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve recently experienced central chest pain, a dull ache, heavy feeling, or mild discomfort in your chest, donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t push these matters of the heart to the bottom of your priorities. Speak to your GP who can refer you to see a specialist. The Wellington Hospital has an international reputation for excellence in cardiac care, offering a full range of Outpatient Cardiac Testing, Daycase and Inpatient Cardiac treatments.

www.thewellingtoncardiacservices.com

Wellington_Advert_templates_cardiac_Final_Awk.indd 1

15/02/2013 16:26

The Themayfair cheshire Magazine Magazine | Regulars | Travel

Suite

dreams

… Dewsall Court, Herefordshire W o r d s : k a t e H O U G H TO N

ewsall Court is a lavish, exclusive-use country house that can be booked all year round for the sort of weddings, family parties and special events which need to be celebrated in real style. Now gloriously brought into the 21st century by owners Samantha Vaughan and Jane Robinson, we explored the pleasures of this stunning building and their ingenious supper clubs. After a roughly two and a half hour drive from London, we were shown to the eponymous Four Poster Room by Samantha herself, who left us with promises of fresh tea and shortbread in front of the fire downstairs – but not before introducing us, with childlike glee, to the quite extraordinary bath. As well as a double shower the bathroom contains a vast tub, designed to sit in as you would an armchair. Unable to resist, I wolfed down my tea and biscuits and spent the next hour in unadulterated bliss, neck deep in hot water and with not a moment’s need to ensure dry hair by clamping my toes to the tap end. The reason for our visit, The Supper Club, is held every six weeks or so, on a Thursday evening. Samantha and Jane invite a different guest chef each time to put together a tasting menu exclusively for their guests. We were blessed with the presence of James Sommerin, who held a Michelin star for seven years during

his tenure at The Crown at Whitebrook. Sommerin, soon to open his own restaurant in Penarth, near Cardiff, was taught to cook by his grandmother and mother and there are clear nods to his traditional Welsh training in all his dishes. Starting with an incredible swede custard (trust me, better than it sounds) we moved through an almost delicate pheasant sausage to fall-from-the-bone fillet of sole and on to melt in the mouth venison (with chocolate!) before polishing off a pre-pudding (a term that’s a first for me, but which I sincerely hope catches on) of prune purée and a final desert of blood oranges with white chocolate, accompanied with a Chase Marmalade Vodka shot. Having started our evening at 7pm with Perrier-Jouët champagne and moving through five heavenly courses with wine, by midnight, I was more than a little ready for bed. Sinking in between heavy, crisp cotton sheets, a thick feather-filled duvet and pillows to lose yourself in, I don’t think I stirred once before breakfast. And what a breakfast! While you can of course choose a plainer option, if you don’t go for the full English you are definitely missing out. After all, the whole experience is about gastronomic hedonism, and you really don’t want to spoil that with a boring breakfast, do you? (dewsall.com)

‘The bathroom contains a vast tub, designed to sit in as you would an armchair’ 105

For the

journey

With three luxury luggage labels opening in Mayfair this spring, it’s the perfect time to invest in something special words: stephen doig

ravelling in the 21st century is a very different beast to what it once was. Frantic dashes between terminals, your precious beauty products squeezed into sandwich bags, the unrivalled misery of a Ryan Air queue; the Golden Age of Travel it is not.

But luckily, there’s a rising tide of luxury luggage makers that are making their presence felt once more as part of the ultimate travel experience. With Parisian heritage brand Moynat set to launch in Mayfair’s Mount Street this March and two other historical luggage brands in close vicinity – Goyard and GlobeTrotter – the temptation to turn the humdrum schlep to the boarding gate into a veritable catwalk experience has never been so great. With travel more accessible than ever, and with the Travel Association reporting that, last year, travellers were focused on having fewer but more luxurious travel experiences, the desire to make the experience more enjoyable and elegant is all the more keenly felt.

‘The temptation to turn the humdrum schlep to the boarding gate 106

The mayfair Magazine | Travel

From opulent train journeys to steam liners gleaming as they slice through the oceans, there’s always been a sense of style associated with travel. What would the well-heeled Edwardian socialite be without her generous array of portmanteaus following her as she alighted the gangway steps to the Mauritania, or stepped onto the station to board the Trans-Siberian Express? But it wasn’t until the 1930s that a whole style culture grew up around the aesthetics of travel, with the arrival of air travel. Those beautifully streamlined Art Deco jets – mini Claridge’s in the sky – called for a dress code that was just as handsome. Think of Marilyn Monroe stepping down the airplane steps or, later, Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton jetting to foreign climes. Integral to that look was, and remains, luggage. From steam liners to Concorde, the craftsmen at Moynat have seen it all. This heritage Paris label was founded in 1849 as a trunk maker, by brothers Octavie and François Coulembier, who enlisted the help of travel goods specialist Pauline Moynat. The label’s handcrafted cases, designed to work beautifully in step with the body and the way one carries and uses a case,

were rendered in beautiful leathers. What remains striking about the Moynat story is just how technically innovative the original founders, and the sons that followed them in running the business, were. Picking up on the trend for automobile travel, Moynat were one of the first trunk designers to realise its potential and adapt their trunks to fit on car roofs. The built trunks with one curving side to help it sit harmoniously on a rooftop. They also introduced trunks with one side deliberately curving so that it sat away from the body, and therefore didn’t knock against someone’s legs when being carried. They were the first to introduce a way of waterproofing leather cases, and introduced the concept of lightweight cases by building a trunk with a wicker frame, alongside an ‘unbreakable’ model. Moynat’s history and sense of excellence are unrivalled; the brand’s bespoke luggage set makes no more than one piece a month, from work rooms in Limoges. ‘People always enjoy going back to true, core values and heritage brands represent these,’ says CEO Guillaume Davin. ‘There’s something comforting about a sense of rootedness.’ It’s a sense of rootedness that’s felt across the channel too. Globe-Trotter’s roll call of famous clientele reads like a veritable 

IMAGES, FROM LEFT: GLOBER-TROTTER CATALOGUE 1912-13; PETITE QUOTTRO GREEN FROM MOYNAT; Pauline haut croco noir FROM MOYNAT; IMAGE © CORBIS; The Queen’s GlobeTrotter; tWO limousine trunks WITH initialS FROM moynat

g gate into a veritable catwalk experience has never been so great’ 107

Travel | The mayfair Magazine

British history lesson. The luggage brand outfitted Captain Robert Falcon Scott (Scott of the Antarctic) on his famous 1912 expedition. When Winston Churchill was storming into War Rooms and plotting his defeat of Hitler, he did it with Globe-Trotter cases at his side. When Sir Edmund Hillary conquered Mount Everest, he did it with the help of Globe-Trotter and when Queen Elizabeth II took her honeymoon in 1947, it was into a Globe-Trotter case that she packed her regal Norman Hartnell and Dior gowns. Founded in 1897 in Germany by English craftsman David Nelken, the brand was soon relocated to Nelken’s native Britain. Since then, the focus has remained on hand-crafting and artisanal skills – to this day, each case is hand made in Hertfordshire. The cases are made in vulcanised fibreboard for durability, lightness and flexibility, and the handles are crafted in leather, each hand-stitched. The iconic leather corners of the cases take five days to make, on an antique Victorian press. No rush job, this. With collections that nod to the golden glory days of travel – Propeller, Jet, Safari, Orient – the heritage and craft may be built on tradition, but the brand have embraced 21st-century aesthetics with cases in zinging pinks and tangerines. Mount Street’s luxury luggage contingent is also heartily bolstered by the grand Paris dame of travel, Goyard. This is arguably

the oldest luggage brand in the world, dating from 1792 and founded by trunk-maker Pierre-François Martin, who crowned the brand House of Martin. Hiring François Goyard to succeed him in the mid 1800s, the apprentice took over and renamed the brand. Going to position stores where the international jet set would summer; Biarritz (where Chanel famously set up a store too), Monte Carlo and Bordeaux. What remains clear is that, if you were a European aristocrat, Asian royal, American tycoon or creative icon, Goyard would be your trusty travelling companion. From Pablo Picasso to the Grimaldis, Cristóbal Balenciaga to Coco Chanel, the Duke of Windsor to Karl Lagerfeld, Rockefellers to Maharadjahs, Édith Piaf to Estée Lauder – all turned to Goyard. Today, the brand’s signature ‘Chevron’ pattern (the distinctive Y print) still decorates the cases it makes so expertly. What’s perhaps surprising is that the cases were made not in leather, but in a cloth that combines hemp, linen and cotton to improve ventilation, coated in a substance and fitted on a frame to ensure sturdiness. Each piece is still handmade and hand-painted, and today a roaring trade in personalisation has captivated a new generation of Goyard acolytes. Travel today might still be beset with delay and tedious terminals, but at least these heritage treasures make the task that little bit less arduous. And they might just guarantee an instant upgrade. (moynat.com; goyard.com; globetrotter1897.com)

iMAGES, FROM LEFT: Centenary Black FROM GLOBE-TROTTER; GLOBETROTTER Ad FROM 1925; TANGO BAG FROM MOYNAT

‘The iconic leather corners of the cases take five days to make’ 108

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of the

Why one resort still has us flocking to the famous azul atolls in the Maldives

sun

W o r d s : K at e R a c o v o l i s

t low tide on a Tuesday afternoon, a boat named Damsel deposited us near a sandbar in the middle of the Laccadive Sea. My partner and I were on the fifth day of our stay at Velassaru – a glamorous resort surrounded by, well, not much at all, and I had very willingly succumbed to this fact while holidaying in this beautiful part of the world. ‘Just to let you know, you will swim from the boat to the sandbar,’ the smiley receptionist Olga told me just before we departed for our ‘Island Escape’. Had it not been for the fact that Velassaru had been such an utterly glamorous experience already, I would have thought that this may be a little too intrepid for my liking. For a moment, I conjured images of us being dropped off in the middle of the dark, blue sea, holding my Longchamp Pliage bag above my head so as not to submerge it in seawater, scrambling ashore. But, of course, it was quite a different story. As I stood on the edge of the boat’s starboard, with flippers and goggles in hand, we slipped on our

110

flippers, affixed our snorkel masks to our faces and plunged in. Like much of the shallow water in the Maldives, it was postcard clear – even the grains of sand swept up as a result of our gentle footsteps on the seabed could be seen so clearly, with sand swirling around before settling in our wake. As I ducked my head underwater, in one direction, I saw the shore of the sandbar and in the other, a dark blue abyss. We swam out towards the expanse of water, meandering around the spectacular coral reef, rocks and colourful fish. Until it suddenly disappeared. I lifted my head above water and looked back to the sandbar and realised we were a little far away for my comfort. The water around me was now dark blue and, as I hovered at the edge of this soundless reef, a sheer drop that I could not see the end of lay below my paddling feet. The underwater inhabitants, however, seemed unaffected in their coral kingdoms which branched out from the wall of sand as far as my eyes could see. Abruptly, I decided it was time to resurface,

The mayfair Magazine | Travel

with thoughts of Open Water coming to mind, and so I swam back to the little sandbar, my partner following closely behind. And there awaited a canvas marquee, complete with a lounge and lunch waiting for us. The archipelago of the Maldives has always fascinated me. It is the poster destination for those unmistakable azul blue atolls, of which there are 26 in the Maldives. You’ll discover deep lagoons, villas that hover above the water as stingrays and reef sharks glide underneath, and water so clear and unspoiled that you wonder how all the comforts of home (and so much more on top of that) could so neatly fit into the landscape. There is no shortage of places to explore, with 1,190 coral islands that house an incredible display of sea life. What surprised me was how relaxed such a glamorous destination at Velassaru could be. Of course, the restaurants, such as Etesian (one of the more formal dining spaces) called for cocktail dress attire, but if you you chose to wear something more casual, you’d be just as comfortable. If you

book yourself in for a private barbecue on the beach – with your own table and chairs dug into the sand, so it appears as though you are sitting at near sea-level – you will find an experience that is incredibly special and private. You can dine with your feet in the sand at one restaurant, or over the water at the Teppanyaki restaurant, with reef sharks and triggerfish circling below. Here I tried the freshest tuna I’ve ever tasted, straight from Maldivian waters. You would never guess that much of the produce in the Maldives is imported, as the flavour of each meal, particularly at Velassaru, no matter what the cuisine, invited a smile with widened eyes. Even the buffet at dinner and breakfast was the most elegant I’ve seen, with individual salads plated chicly in martini glasses and perfectly cooked meat. Romance is unsurprisingly abundant, with fewer families choosing this particular resort. As you’d expect, people journey here to get engaged, married, honeymoon, escape the ‘real world’ or celebrate anniversaries. Whether 

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you’re spending an afternoon at its renowned spa, snorkeling or just spending time in your room, this is the kind of place you would want to share with someone – if only to have the stunned look on your face acknowledged, when you first see the gleaming white sand that covers almost every inch of the resort. Velassaru turned out to be one of those resorts that you leave only wanting to return to. From adventurous to glamorous in a matter of moments captures what this resort is all about, and indeed the Maldives as a destination. Staying in a Water Villa certainly highlighted just that; sleeping on the open water with the sea life swimming around beneath, and being able to jump in for a morning swim just as the sun is rising was so freeing. But the Beach Villas that lead onto the white sandy foreshore, as if you have your own private beach, were also something entirely special, if you prefer to be on dry land. The experience comes with that feeling of ultimate indulgence, and just the right amount of stepping outside of what you’re used to. The remoteness of the Maldives – even though Velassaru is only a 30-minute boat ride from Malé – gives you a feeling quite unlike any other. You feel as if you have truly retreated from one world, and slid into another where all there is, is the vast sea that

112

surrounds you and all that you have for company is the person you choose to travel with, on this island that you can walk the circumference of in around 15-minutes. For such a small island, I wondered if we would run out of things to do; after all, there is only so much sun one’s skin can take after being cocooned in trousers and heavy overcoats in London. But even with our near-week stay, there were too many activities on offer to do them all, which gave us the choice to do as we pleased, whether watching a movie on a large screen outside under the stars, or taking a sunset cruise with a glass of Champagne in hand. Staying at Velassaru makes you feel like you’ve fallen off the edge of the earth, if you choose to make the most of staying on a small, very private island. But it comes with all of the small comforts to lead your modern life, surrounded by nothing but white sand and the clear blue sea.

NEED TO KNOW STAY Seven nights in an Ocean Water Bungalow with Pool from £1,525 per person including daily breakfast, speedboat transfers and international flights with Turkish Airlines. (velassaru.com) EXPERIENCE Upgrade to the Velassaru Indulgence package from £870 per person. Contact Turquoise Holidays; (01494 678400, enquiries@turquoiseholidays.co.uk) FLY Turkish Airlines flies daily from London Heathrow and Gatwick (0844 800 6666; turkishairlines.com)

The mayfair Magazine | Travel

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;You can dine with your feet in the sand at one restaurant, or over the water at the Teppanyakiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

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here are few chances in today’s world to feel like a latter day royal. But sweeping into the ‘Opera Suite’ of Vienna’s Hotel Bristol – where a lengthy marble hallway leads to a spectacular curved living room of buttercup yellow and cerulean, resplendent in 18th century décor – is a suitably regal introduction to one of the city’s most historically fascinating institutions. Founded in 1892, it’s seen its fair share of icons, classical music titans (thanks to its opera adjacent position) and state dignitaries. Johann Strauss, Gustav Mahler, Giacomo Puccini, Sergei Rachmaninoff have all taken up residence here, but perhaps the most beguiling former guests are the Duke of Windsor and Wallis Simpson, who would look perfectly at home in the hotel’s sumptuous Art Deco bar, sipping an Old Fashioned. The winding Kärntner Ring is the central road that sweeps in a circle around the city, so a jaunty tram ride takes in the Museum Quarter, the spiraling Rathaus City Hall, the Hofburg Palace (the balcony of which Hitler orated from when he took the city during WWII), the monolithic Austrian National Library and the Austrian Parliament Building. A short walk behind the hotel, the imposing St Stephen’s Cathedral overlooks the entirely of the city. It’s one of the few tall buildings on the skyline – regulations stipulate that tall building can’t be built within the centre of the city, meaning that the only high ones are historical. The result is that the city feels that little bit more expansive; acres of sky stretch before you as you negotiated the bustling, quaint shopping enclaves of Schulerstrasse and Singerstrasse. Further afield, the Belvedere museum’s incredible gardens are seconded only by the artwork inside; jostle through the crowds and you’ll catch Klimt’s famous The Kiss painting.

[city break]

Where to stay The newly renovated Art Deco Hotel Bristol is the grand dame of the Vienna hotel world, and couldn’t be more helpfully situated. Operaphiles will swoon at the proximity and views of the famous Opera House, which offers standing seats for as little as 10 euros. Plump for a suite (ideally the Opera Suite if you can) to get breath-taking panoramic views of the Vienna State Opera and the famous Ringstraße. (bristolvienna.com)

VIENNA

Eating & drinking ‘Heurigers’ – traditional Austrian wine taverns dating from the 16th Century – are a long-standing Austrian institution and one that you simply must try while you’re here. Sample the local wine with a series of artery clogging dishes at the charmingly quaint Heuriger Weininger. (heuriger-wieninger.at)

Immerse yourself in the regality of Vienna, with its historic buildings and heart-warming Austrian cuisine words: stephen doig

Mayfair recommends Dipping into Viennese café culture at the beautiful Demel coffee house, all mirrored walls and chandeliers. Watch the bakers make their fanciful confections (I dare you to resist going back for a second one) from behind a glass wall and indulge in the city’s famous Sachertorte – delicious. (demel.at)

The Rathaus (image © S-F)

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The mayfair Magazine | Travel

lounge at the hotel bristol

SUITCASE E S S E N T I A L S

#1 Briefcase, £299, Oppermann (opumo.com)

#2 Sunglasses, £255, Oliver Peoples (oliverpeoples.com)

Kunsthistorisches Museum (image © Radio kafka) image © cesc assawin

Cafe Mozart (image © Rrrainbow)

#3 Shirt, £320, J.W. Anderson (mrporter.com)

historic staircase at the hotel bristol

Donnerbrunnen fountain

#4 Blazer, £845, Thom Sweeney (mrporter.com)

suite at the hotel bristol

#5 Penny Loafers, £370, Gucci (mrporter.com)

entrance and concierge at the hotel bristol

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The mayfair Magazine | Travel

Travel news African outbacks and Swiss mountain towns: Choose your adventure this March w o r d s : A n d r e w ma n n s & k a t e r ac o v o l i s

Short haul

Le Grand Bellevue, Gstaad

The quaint Swiss village of Gstaad is home to one very big secret: Le Grand Bellevue. This spectacular building has just undergone a year-long renovation, although the outside still rises up like a castle amidst the cottages and crystalline glaciers of the Bernese ski town. Home to Leonard’s, a bistro-style restaurant run by Michelin star chef Urs Gschwend, the hotel has an excess of leisure spaces, including a private cinema and a 2,500sq meter spa facility. (bellevue-gstaad.ch)

Long haul

&Beyond Phinda Private Game Reserve, KwaZulu-Natal What could be more adventurous than a trip to see the incredible wildlife of South Africa? And what could be more glamorous than staying in one of the handcrafted, glass-encased suites at &Beyond’s Phinda Private Game Reserve? This resort blends the natural beauty of its forested surroundings (all 56,830 acres of it) with a very decadent experience, all of which is made to work with conservation and the environment in mind. Here you will have the chance to experience some of the best game viewing, as Phinda’s land is home to lions, leopards, elephants, buffalo and rhinoceros, not to mention 415 species of birds. If you’re lucky, you might also catch a close-up glimpse of the rarely-sighted cheetah or black rhino. (andbeyond.com)

TRAVEL TIPS Don’t leave home without… J Panther’s new moleskin messenger bag. With an olive canvas and brown leather trim, the accessory is suitable for the wardrobe of a globe-trotting Indiana Jones. £327 (opumo.com) There’s an app for that… TOUCHNOTE Yes, even postcards have now become digital. Whether you’re still a fan of snail mail on your travels, or are more of an email person, this app makes it easy to let your loved ones know where you are – and make them a little jealous too… Free, from the iTunes App Store

‘I see my path, but I don’t know where it leads. Not knowing where I’m going is what inspires me to travel it’ - Rosalía Rita de Castro 117

Hitting the

slopes

can hurt

Regardless of skill level, muscles can become tired and fatigued whilst skiing, with the third day of a ski holiday being the most common time for an injury to occur. If you return home and continue to suffer pain, speak to your GP who can refer you to see a specialist to manage the condition. Led by eminent consultants, The Wellington Hospital offers a range of orthopaedic services to help you regain your health and return to the slopes.

Call us today

and get that injury seen to 020 7483 5004

www.thewellingtonhospital.com

Wellington PMC SKI- Mar2013_Master_final.indd 3

14/11/2013 12:07

The mayfair Magazine | Regulars

Remembering

MAYFAIR THE WO L S E L E Y PICCADILLY

Images by David Loftus

he Wolseley is one of the most popular restaurants in London, regularly lauded as ‘exquisite’, ‘splendid’ and ‘an absolute treat’. Situated at No.160 Piccadilly, it has established a renowned reputation for style and prestige, and has claimed several awards, including Observer Food Monthly Best Breakfast in 2005 and 2009, Tatler Restaurant of the Year in 2007 and the Zagat Favourite Restaurant 2013. It is undoubtedly one of the best places in London for afternoon tea, as well as for breakfast, including its classic Eggs Benedict. The Wolseley has also been much praised for its style as a ‘Grand European café’ and serves European classics, including Escargot and Wiener Schnitzel, as well as traditional British favourites such as Lancashire Hot Pot. The lavish design, with its revolving doors and grand pillared interior, is now part of the experience of eating at The Wolseley, but in fact it was first created as the Wolseley Motors car showroom. In 1921, William Curtis Green (who later designed The Dorchester Hotel) was commissioned to design ‘Wolseley House’. In 1922, after the sumptuous new showroom was completed, he won the first RIBA medal for best street frontage. At the time of opening, The Times called it ‘one of the handsomest and most extensive motor-car showrooms in the world’.

The exterior features ornate decorative ironwork and Portland stone, along with towering Corinthian pillars. The interior is a beautiful mix of styles, with black and gold lacquered screens, black and cream geometric marble floor, Byzantine style light fittings and high ceilings supported by Doric columns. However, four years after opening, Wolseley Motors was in receivership and was forced to sell Wolseley House. In 1926, it was purchased by Barclays Bank, who brought back William Curtis Green to redesign interior elements, including the installation of managers’ offices and banking counter. Barclays continued at Wolseley House until 1999, but, by 2003, a complete restoration of the interior was undertaken when it was acquired by Chris Corbin and Jeremy King, who are also behind many other London haunts, including The Ivy. When the revamped restaurant opened in November 2003 it was claimed to be the ‘hottest ticket in town’. Since that time, it has gone on to carve out a irreplacable niche in both the weekday business breakfast market and the leisurely weekend brunch one – long may it continue. (thewolseley.com). Words by Melanie Backe-Hansen (house-historian.co.uk)

‘It has established a renowned reputation for style and prestige’ 119

Property | The mayfair Magazine

Mayfair estate agents 020 7834 4771 (sales) www.hamptons-int.com Kaye & Carey Beauchamp Estates 24 Curzon Street, W1J 7TF 020 7499 7722 www.beauchamp.co.uk

Harrods Estates

Knightsbridge

Plaza Estates

4 Yeoman’s Row SW3 2AH 020 7590 0066 www.kayeandcarey.co.uk

29-31 Edgware Road, W2 2JE 020 7724 3100 www.plazaestates.co.uk

Marble Arch

82 Brompton Road, SW3 1ER 020 7225 6506

Mayfair Chesterton Humberts

Mayfair

61 Park Lane, W1K 1QF 020 7409 9001 www.harrodsestates.com

47 South Audley Street, W1K 2QA 020 7629 4513 (sales) 020 7288 8301 (lettings)

Westminster & Pimlico 10 Gillingham Street, SW1V 1HJ 020 3040 8201 (sales) www.chestertonhumberts.com

Horne & Harvey 23a St James’s Street, SW1A 1HA 020 7839 6006 www.horneandharvey.co.uk

John D Wood Fine & Country

Mayfair

121 Park Lane, W1K 7AG 020 7079 1523 www.fineandcountry.co.uk

Knight Frank

Mayfair

188 Brompton Road, SW3 1HQ 020 7581 5234 (sales)

Hyde Park

Mayfair

Chelsea

134 Fulham Road, SW10 9PY 020 7717 5433 (lettings)

Knightsbridge

1 Craven Terrace W2 3QD 020 7871 5060 (sales) 020 7871 5070 (lettings)

36 North Audley Street, W1K 6ZJ 020 7578 5100 (sales & lettings)

Marylebone

139 Sloane Street, SW1X 9AY 020 7730 0822 www.savills.co.uk

55 Baker Street W1U 8EW 020 3435 6440 (sales)

Sloane Street

Belgravia

48 Elizabeth Street, SW1W 9PA 020 7824 7900 www.johndwood.co.uk Strutt & Parker Pastor Real Estate Ltd 48 Curzon Street W1J 7UL 020 3195 9595 www.pastor-realestate.com

Hamptons International

Savills

120a Mount Street W1K 3NN 020 7499 1012 (sales & lettings) www.knightfrank.co.uk

John taylor 48 Berkeley Square, W1J 5AX 020 3284 1888 www.john-taylor.com

London Head Office 13 Hill Street, W1J 5LQ 020 7629 7282

Knightsbridge 66 Sloane Street SW1X 9SH 020 7235 9959 www.struttandparker.com

Knightsbridge 168 Brompton Road, SW3 1HW 020 7717 5463 (lettings)

penyards

Winchester

Mayfair 32 Grosvenor Square, W1K 2HJ 020 7717 5465 (sales) 020 7717 5467 (lettings)

Paddington & Bayswater 4C Praed Street, W2 1JX 020 7717 5473 (sales) 020 7717 5343 (lettings)

Pimlico & Westminster 50 Belgrave Road, SW1V 1RQ

KAY & CO

Hyde Park & Bayswater 24-25 Albion Street, W2 2AX 020 7262 2030

Marylebone & Regents Park 20a Paddington Street, W1U 5QP 020 7486 6338 www.kayandco.com

21 Southgate Street Hampshire, SO23 9EB 01962 860300

W.A. Ellis 174 Brompton Road, SW3 1HP 020 7306 1600 www.waellis.co.uk

Brockenhurst 66 Brookley Road Hampshire, SO42 7RA 01590 624775 www.penyards.com

For estate agent listings please contact Sophie Roberts at: s.roberts@runwildgroup.co.uk

Wetherell 102 Mount Street W1K 2TH 020 7493 6935 www.wetherell.co.uk

showcasing the

finest HOMES & PROPERTY from the best estate agents

Building society Queen Street’s stunning new development; plus, London’s growing skyline

An island of one’s own

image: hamptons www.hamptons.co.uk

Your own private Caribbean escape

KnightFrank.co.uk

Berkeley Street, Mayfair W1J

A recently renovated lateral two bedroom apartment A contemporary pied-a-terre set within a prestigious, portered building on bustling Berkeley Street. Recently renovated, featuring air conditioning, Miele appliances and bespoke joinery. 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, dressing room, open plan kitchen/reception room, 4 Juliette balconies, porter. EPC rating C. Approximately 85 sq m (915 sq ft) Leasehold: approximately 988 years remaining Guide price: ÂŁ2,200,000 (WER120225)

KnightFrank.co.uk/mayfair mayfair@knightfrank.com 020 8166 7482

KnightFrank.co.uk

Queen Street, Mayfair W1J

An exceptional boutique development of only six apartments A luxury development of two adjoining period buildings with 24 hour concierge situated in the picturesque Mayfair Conservation Area. These six, three bedroom apartments are newly created behind period facades: providing contemporary living in a historic setting. Ranging from approximately 1,700 sq ft - 2,200 sq ft Leasehold: approximately 988 years remaining

(WER130005)

KnightFrank.co.uk/mayfair mayfair@knightfrank.com 020 8166 7482 KnightFrank.co.uk/property-development robert.adams@knightfrank.com 020 7861 5483

KnightFrank.co.uk

St James’s Street, St James’s SW1

Elegantly decorated three bedroom duplex apartment A stylish duplex apartment spanning 2,300 square feet at the centre of London’s oldest district. The property features a balcony as well as an array of delicate touches such as a beautifully hand painted ceiling, Swarovski lighting and fabric lined walls in the master bedroom. 3 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, double reception room, kitchen, terrace, porter, lift. EPC rating G. Approximately 215 sq m (2,314 sq ft) Leasehold: approximately 35 years remaining Guide price: £3,950,000 (WER130107)

KnightFrank.co.uk/mayfair mayfair@knightfrank.com 020 8166 7482

KnightFrank.co.uk

St James’s Street, St James’s SW1A Triplex penthouse with views towards the London Eye

A four bedroom penthouse in need of some modernisation, featuring an incredible 27ft private roof terrace with far reaching views across the London skyline. 4 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, 2 reception rooms, kitchen, roof terrace, lift, porter. EPC rating E. Approximately 300 sq m (3,234 sq ft) Leasehold: approximately 83 years remaining Guide price: £9,750,000 (WER030417)

KnightFrank.co.uk/mayfair mayfair@knightfrank.com 020 8166 7482

KnightFrank.co.uk

Dunraven Street, Mayfair W1K

A stylish triplex apartment with rare private outside space Spread over three floors, this three bedroom apartment offers a contemporary living space behind an original period façade and further benefits from access to the “secret gardens” of Green Street. 3 bedrooms, dressing room, 2 bathrooms, shower room, guest WC, 2 reception rooms, kitchen, study, balcony, patio, terrace, communal garden. EPC rating E. Approximately 243 sq m (2,613 sq ft) Leasehold: approximately 186 years remaining Guide price: £7,500,000 (WER130199)

KnightFrank.co.uk/mayfair mayfair@knightfrank.com 020 8166 7482

KnightFrank.co.uk

Blandford Street, Marylebone W1

An impressive six bedroom Grade II listed townhouse This handsome townhouse of Georgian proportions offers well planned living accomodation with lots of natural light. Master bedroom suite with bathroom and separate dressing room, 4 further bedroom suites, drawing room, 2 further reception rooms, fully fitted kitchen / breakfast room, guest cloakroom, self contained one bedroom guest/staff flat. Approximately 403 sq m (4,348 sq ft) Leasehold: approximately 991 years remaining Guide price: ÂŁ6,250,000 (MRY130203)

KnightFrank.co.uk/marylebone marylebone@knightfrank.com 020 3641 7938

KnightFrank.co.uk

Hyde Park Street, Hyde Park W2 Fantastic family house close to Hyde Park

A newly refurbished terraced house with garage, finished to a high specification and offering excellent entertaining space. 7/8 bedrooms, 7 bathrooms, 3 reception rooms, study, kitchen, cloakroom, 2 terraces, 2 storage vaults, garage, underfloor heating, air conditioning. EPC rating E. Approximately 525 sq m (5,660 sq ft) Freehold Guide price: ÂŁ9,750,000 (HPE130121)

KnightFrank.co.uk/hydepark hydepark@knightfrank.com 020 3544 6140

KnightFrank.co.uk

Hyde Park Street, Hyde Park W2

The largest private garden on the Hyde Park Estate A unique, meticulously renovated apartment within a Grade II listed white stucco fronted building, close to Hyde Park. Master bedroom with 2 dressing rooms and en suite bathroom, 3 further bedrooms (2 en suite), guest shower room, reception room, dining room, kitchen/breakfast room, cloakroom, terrace, garden, 2 store rooms. Approximately 272 sq m (2,930 sq ft) Share of freehold Guide price: ÂŁ6,950,000 (HPE140017)

KnightFrank.co.uk/hydepark hydepark@knightfrank.com 020 3544 2483

KnightFrank.co.uk Green Street, Mayfair W1K

Contemporary apartment An exceptional triplex apartment with distinctive architectural design. 3 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, reception room, dining room, kitchen, terrace, EPC rating B. Approximately 246 sq m (2,648 sq ft) Available unfurnished Guide price: £5,000 per week

KnightFrank.co.uk/lettings mayfairlettings@knightfrank.com 020 8166 7483 (MAQ160688)

Whitehall Court, St James’s SW1 Unique apartment

A fantastic newly refurbished apartment to rent in the beautiful Whitehall Court, boasting wooden flooring from Buckingham Palace. Master bedroom, single bedroom/study, bathroom, reception room, kitchen, lift, porter. EPC rating E. Available furnished Guide price: £995 per week

KnightFrank.co.uk/lettings mayfairlettings@knightfrank.com 020 8166 7483 (MAQ191922)

All potential tenants should be advised that, as well as rent, an administration fee of £276 will apply when renting a property. Please ask us for more information about other fees that may apply or visit KnightFrank.co.uk/tenantcharges

KnightFrank.co.uk Frederick Close, Hyde Park W2

Contemporary apartment An architecturally designed apartment in an exclusive development close to Hyde Park. 2 bedrooms, 2 en suite bathrooms, reception room, study, kitchen, utility room, concierge, parking. EPC rating C. Approximately 141 sq m (1,519 sq ft) Available furnished Guide price: £1,950 per week

KnightFrank.co.uk/lettings hydeparklettings@knightfrank.com 020 3641 7941 (ccq156011)

Picton Place, Marylebone W1 Penthouse apartment

A stunning penthouse apartment in a luxury new development in the heart of the West End. Master bedroom suite, 2 further bedrooms, family bathroom, open plan living and entertaining space, custom designed kitchen, 2 terraces, secure coded lift access, concierge. EPC rating B. Approximately 142 sq m (1,537 sq ft) Available furnished or unfurnished Guide price: £2,250 per week

KnightFrank.co.uk/marylebone marylebone@knightfrank.com 020 3435 6440 (MRY190607)

savills.co.uk

1 BEAUTIFULLY REFURBISHED FREEHOLD TOWNHOUSE chesterfield street, w1 Entrance hall ø reception room ø dining room ø study ø kitchen ø master bedroom suite ø 3 further bedrooms suites ø bedroom 5 ø guest cloakroom ø 2 terraces ø patio ø vaults ø 366 sq m (3,946 sq ft) ø EPC=C Guide £8.5 million Freehold

Savills Mayfair David Turner dturner@savills.com

020 7578 5100

Prime Central London IN NUMBERS

Find out about the Prime Central London residential property market. In detail. In focus. In numbers. Visit savills.co.uk/in-numbers

Jonathan Hewlett Head of London Residential +44 (0) 20 7730 0822 jhewlett@savills.com

savills.co.uk

1 WELL PRESENTED MAISONETTE IN THE HEART OF ST JAMES'S king street, sw1 Entrance hall ø reception room ø dining room ø study ø kitchen ø master bedroom suite ø 2 further bedroom suites ø guest cloakroom ø porter ø 325 sq m (3,501 sq ft) ø EPC=E

Mercer Pasqua

Savills Mayfair

Alastair Mercer enquiries@mercerpasqua.co.uk

Charles Lloyd clloyd@savills.com

020 7665 6633

020 7578 5100

Guide £5.995 million Leasehold, approximately 983 years remaining plus Share of Freehold

savills.co.uk

LETTINGS LAYOUT ONLY

AN IMPRESSIVE APARTMENT WITH VIEWS OVER ST JAMES'S jermyn street, sw1 3 double bedrooms ø 3 bathrooms ø reception room ø kitchen/dining room ø utility room ø 2 balconies ø lift ø 174 sq m (1,876 sq ft) ø Council Tax=H ø EPC=C

Savills Mayfair Leonie Bucher lbucher@savills.com

020 7578 5100 Furnished £2,250 per week + £276 inc VAT one-off admin fee and other charges may apply* *£36 inc VAT for each additional tenant/occupant/guarantor reference where required. Inventory check out fee – charged at the end of or early termination of the tenancy and the amount is dependent on the property size and whether furnished/unfurnished. For more details, visit www.savills.co.uk/fees.

Beyond your expectations www.hamptons.co.uk

Berkeley Street, W1 A stunning two bedroom apartment situated on the fifth floor of a portered block. The property is ideally located between Berkeley Square and Piccadilly and has been superbly refurbished, with a beautifully appointed kitchen and bathroom. EPC: D

£2,395,000 Leasehold • • • • • •

Hamptons Mayfair Office Sales. 020 7717 5465 | Lettings. 020 7717 5467

Two bedrooms One bathroom Lift Porter High quality finish 743 sq ft

Green Street W1 This split level three bedroom three bathroom apartment boasts excellent reception space with a large eat in kitchen and a huge south facing reception room with balcony. Upstairs are three well proportioned bedrooms and three bathrooms. The standard of finish is excellent as is the location. Early viewings highly recommended. EPC: D *Tenant Charges Tenants should note that as well as rent, an administration charge of £216 (Inc. VAT) per property and a referencing charge of £54 (Inc. VAT) per person will apply when renting a property. Please ask us for more information about other fees that may apply or visit www.hamptons.co.uk/rent/tenant-charges

Hamptons Mayfair Office Lettings. 020 7717 5467 | Sales. 020 7717 5465

£3,250 per week Furnished (charges apply)* • • • • •

Three bedrooms Three bathrooms Balcony Media system High specification

Beyond your expectations www.hamptons.co.uk

Hyde Park Square, W2 A simply stunning four bedroom top floor apartment within an imposing white stuccofronted building and over looking a private residents garden square. The accommodation comprises an impressive reception/dining room, separate kitchen, four bedrooms all with en-suite bathrooms and guest WC. The property benefits from generous storage and the building a 24 hour porter and two lifts. EPC: D

Hamptons Paddington Office Sales. 020 7717 5473 | Lettings. 020 7717 5343

£3,800,000 Share of Freehold • • • • • •

Four bedrooms all with en-suite bathrooms Dressing room to master bedroom Reception/dining room Two residents lifts 24 hour porter Access to private residents garden square

Carlisle Place, SW1P Grandeur, period charm and a fabulous location are all present in this fourth floor mansion apartment with views overlooking Westminster Cathedral. The property has a dual aspect and is exceptionally light with high ceilings that further emphasise the space. Has an extended lease with 140 years unexpired. EPC: D

£3,100,000 Leasehold • • • • • •

Hamptons Pimlico & Westminster Office Sales. 020 7717 5315 | Lettings. 020 7717 5345

Reception room- over 630 sq ft Dining room Kitchen/breakfast room Five bedrooms Two bathroomsterrace Balcony & lift

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Palace View Penthouse, St. James’s Street, SW1

An amazing, newly refurbished penthouse apartment in a discrete 24h portered building in the heart of St James’s, with wonderful views and over 800 sq ft of extensive terracing.

Knightsbridge 020 7235 9959

james.gilbert-green@struttandparker.com

£12,000,000 Leasehold

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Chester Square, Belgravia, SW1

With stunning south-east facing views over communal gardens, this 6 bedroom, air conditioned home was developed by Finchatton for a private client and is flooded with natural light.

Knightsbridge 020 7235

charlie.willis@struttandparker.com

ÂŁ16,500,000 Freehold

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One Hyde Park, Knightsbridge SW1

An outstanding, beautifully interior designed lateral apartment with south facing city views.

Knightsbridge 020 7235 9959

james.gilbert-green@struttandparker.com

ÂŁ23,000,000 Leasehold

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Ennismore Gardens, Knightsbridge SW7

A sensational laterally converted 3 double bedroom apartment with 6 windows overlooking communal gardens.

Knightsbridge 020 7235 9959 charlie.willis@struttandparker.com

ÂŁ12,950,000 Leasehold

Our ofﬁces:

Battersea

Chelsea

Fulham

Kensington

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Balham

Bishops Park

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Hammersmith

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South Kensington

Barnes

Brook Green

Earls Court

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Marylebone

Notting Hill

Molyneux Street W1 £2,150,000 Nestling on the west side of Marylebone is this lovely street of predominantly four storey ﬂat fronted houses of the late Georgian style. They offer classical good looks combined with well proportioned and light rooms. This particular threebedroom house is a ﬁne example of a property that has escaped the zealous modernising hands of the 60s and early 70s and retained the best of its period character and features. Freehold. EPC=D. Sole Agents MARYLEBONE: 020 7935 1775 sales.mar@marshandparsons.co.uk

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SALES

See all of our properties online: marshandparsons.co.uk

New Cavendish Street W1 ÂŁ1,500,000 A well laid out and charming two-bedroom apartment in one of Maryleboneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best streets. If you are looking for an apartment with character and a touch of bohemian Brooklyn style, then this is the property for you. The accommodation includes a reception room with three south facing windows, a separate kitchen, two double bedrooms, a bathroom and a useful study area, which has a full wall of book shelves and a vast storage cupboard. Leasehold. EPC=D. Sole Agent. MARYLEBONE: 020 7935 1775 sales.mar@marshandparsons.co.uk

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Park Street, Mayfair W1K

A stunning & meticulously designed 2,201 sq ft, 3rd floor flat (with lift) in one of Mayfair’s most desirable buildings, with 24hr porterage, security & concierge services. Located on Park Street, just behind Park Lane & benefiting from the local amenities including Oxford Street, Piccadilly & Regent Street. The open spaces of Hyde Park are also within close proximity. Comprising 3 bedrooms, 2 reception rooms, 3 bathrooms & a balcony. EPC rating D

£8,000,000 long leasehold

Mayfair & St James’s

020 7629 4513

sales.mayfair@chestertonhumberts.com

Adams Row, Mayfair W1K

A rare opportunity to acquire a 1st & 2nd floor mews maisonette, offering scope for development, with potential to extend the lease. Comprising 2 bedrooms, 1 reception room & 2 bathrooms. EPC rating E

£1,500,000 freehold

Hallam Street, Mayfair W1W

An unmodernised apartment, occupying approx. 1,184 sq ft, on the 3rd floor of this well located building in Marylebone. Comprising 3 bedrooms, 2 reception rooms, 2 bathrooms & a garage. EPC rating C

£875,000 long leasehold

chestertonhumberts.com

South Audley Street, Mayfair W1K

An exceptional penthouse apartment with stunning westerly views of Hyde Park which has been meticulously refurbished throughout. This luxurious 2 double bedroom apartment features under floor heating, prime grade oak flooring, bespoke kitchen, air conditioning & stunning terrace. The accommodation consists of a reception room, kitchen, master bedroom with en-suite & dressing area, further double bedroom, 2nd bathroom & a roof terrace. EPC rating D

£2,300 per week

Mayfair & St James’s

020 7288 8301

lettings.mayfair@chestertonhumberts.com

Mount Street, Mayfair W1K

A beautiful lateral apartment on Mayfair’s most premier street with high ceilings, an abundance of natural light & wood flooring throughout. Comprising reception room, kitchen, bedroom with en-suite, further double bedroom & 2nd bathroom. EPC rating G

£1,750 per week

Green Street, Mayfair W1K

Recently refurbished apartment on one of Mayfair’s most premier streets. Finished to a high standard the accommodation comprises bright reception room, brand new kitchen, master bedroom, 2 further double bedrooms & 2 bathrooms. EPC rating D

£1,550 per week

Additional charges apply. Administration: £222 (VAT included). References per tenant: £42 (VAT included)

chestertonhumberts.com

kayandco.com

W1 Montagu Mansions, Marylebone ÂŁ3,950,000 Share of Freehold

One of the most beautiful flats to come to the market in Marylebone is this Genuity Designsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; interior-designed six bedroom, lateral apartment possessing tremendously flexible living accommodation. The apartment benefits from fantastic ceiling heights and measures approximately 2,865 sq. ft. Among many other features, this stunning, fully home automated apartment (Control 4 system) benefits from a double reception room, large bespoke eat-in kitchen with top of the range Gaggenau appliances, family/play room, master and guest bedroom suites, three further bedrooms (one currently used as a study/library and one as a gym), family bathroom and guest WC and a utility room. Viewing is highly recommended.

0203 394 0012 sales.marylebone@kayandco.com

kayandco.com

W2 Hampshire House, Hyde Park Place ÂŁ4,995,000 Long Leasehold

Now in need of refurbishment, a penthouse of circa 2,500sqft with extensive roof terraces, that now offers an exciting opportunity to refurbish and redesign subject to the normal consents, to create a magical central London home with views over Hyde Park. Hampshire House is a sought after period building offering 24 hour manned reception and security in an enviable position opposite the verdant open space of Hyde Park. The building is well placed allowing easy access to the many boutiques and artisan bakeries of Connaught village coupled with destination shopping of Oxford Street and Mayfair minutes away.

020 3394 0029 lettings.hydepark@kayandco.com

no-one knows mayfair better than wetherell

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Weth

UPPER BROOK STREET MAYFAIR W1 A very private low built hidden house and unique in Mayfair given the approach via a 64 foot private garden and the additional features of a garage for two cars and a swimming pool. n n n n n n n n

Entrance Hall n Three Reception Rooms Two Studies n Kitchen/Breakfast Room Master Bedroom with Two En Suites and Two Dressing Rooms Guest Suite of Bedroom, Bathroom and Dressing Room Bedroom Three n Shower Room Landscaped 64 Foot Garden n Courtyard Garden n Double Garage 30 Foot Swimming Pool n Comfort Cooling n 5,645 Square Feet EPC Rating Band E

Freehold ÂŁ17,500,000

wetherell.co.uk

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102 Mount Street, London W1K 2TH T: 020 7529 5566 n E: sales@wetherell.co.uk

17/02/2014 15:10

HOT PROPERTY Queen Street, W1

n a sunny afternoon in Mayfair, I saw an unusual scene: what appeared to be a freestanding façade on what was clearly a listed building (or at least its front was), with nothing behind it. This was indeed a rare sighting; Mayfair’s heritage is one part of its culture that has been fiercely protected, particularly with the rise in

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new homes sprouting up not just in this area, but across London. But, as our modern lives demand that our homes be finished with all the latest gadgets and comforts, Mayfair too has evolved to accommodate this – without losing its charm. A new property developed by Evans Randall, in partnership with Al Salam Bank-Bahrain, on Queen Street offers a stunning example of the 

The mayfair Magazine | Property

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meeting of the old and the new – its façade too was preserved, like the slightly macabre sight I witnessed, while everything that lay behind it has been completed recreated. The company, a privately owned investment banking and private equity group specialising in prime commercial and residential real estate, found two adjoining buildings at numbers 4 and 5 Queen Street – one of Mayfair’s gems. This November, six threebedroom apartments, one of which is a penthouse, will, after much anticipation, be complete. ‘When you buy a property like this you’re getting a piece of history,’ says Michael Evans, partner and chairman of Evans Randall. Tristan Rodgers, who has also overseen the project, adds, ‘This property is different to the other developments you would see in Mayfair, because it has a distinctive feel to it. Not only is it number 4 and 5, but the apartments are at different levels as well, which gives the six apartments a different feel to each other.’ Because of the way the property has been constructed, what you can expect from this boutique development is a different identity from apartment to apartment; you will not find any cookie-cutter plans here. Finished in the finest materials, from marble-clad bathrooms to to Stark silk carpets. Each apartment is filled with top of the range Gaggenau appliances, Savant AV systems, Bulthaup’s newest b3 range, and no detail has been left untouched. The Art Deco, yet contemporary reception spaces are almost centrepiece-like, with bespoke fireplaces and soothing, neutral toned interiors (plus, the occasional gold detail doesn’t go astray, for added effect). All of this combines to offer the perfect balance between an historic Mayfair home and contemporary living. ‘You’re buying a piece of Mayfair but with all the modern technologies,’ says Harvey Cyzer, head of Knight Frank’s Mount Street office, who has already seen much interest in the property, particularly from international buyers. ‘It’s very hard in Mayfair to find something that has that wonderful period feel, with the sophistication and technology and

build quality with a façade like that in that location.’ But the arrival of this property’s completion illustrates increased demand for new homes in Mayfair – and beautifully built and decorated ones at that. ‘What’s exciting about this in particular is that it’s a boutique development,’ says Robert Adams an associate at Knight Frank’s Prime New Homes. ‘It’s the boutique idea – the fact that your concierge becomes very personal to you, he’ll know you, you’ll know him.’ ‘There’s something quite special about buying off-plan as well,’ adds Cyzer. ‘You feel you’re slightly ahead of the market. You feel that the majority of buyers aren’t aware of it and you’re being offered something before it’s been completed. I think that’s quite special.’

Knight Frank: For further enquiries contact Harvey Cyzer (Harvey.Cyzer@knightfrank.com; 020 7647 6008)

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The mayfair Magazine | Property

High society

Property news A new exhibition dedicated to the future of London’s skyline arrives and we find the top places for short-term stays around the world

What will London’s skyline look like in ten years? Although you won’t find skyscrapers in the heart of Mayfair, there are over 200 towers planned, each of which are 20 storeys or higher, which will change the view of London dramatically. We can at least answer this question in part, by catching a glimpse of the future with a new exhibition that creatively uses images, video and models to illustrate this upward (literally) growing trend. London’s Growing… Up! is on at the New London Architecture galleries at The Building Centre, 26 Store Street, WC1E. 3 April to 12 June

Word on the street Retail, leisure and investment agency Ian Scott International know Mayfair – after all, they have been based in the area for 40 years. We now see the launch of its residential services, based out of their Bolton Street offices, where you will find an array of stunning properties available for purchase or to rent. Headed up by property expert Ross Lever, you can expect to see only the most bespoke and professional service from this veteran company. Ian Scott International Residential, 15 Bolton Street, WIJ (020 7493 9011; ianscott.com)

Home from home For those who prefer to have all the amenities of a fully-functioning apartment when travelling, rather than a little kitchenette (if that) in a hotel, One Fine Stay has a solution to your predicament. The properties available in New York, Los Angeles, Paris and London have been handpicked, so that only the most elegant, luxurious places are included in its selection. You will receive all of the amenities that a hotel has, including freshly stocked toiletries and a maid service if you’d like. Each apartment comes immaculately cleaned before you arrive, so there is no need to bring anything except what you’re traveling with. But the best part of all is that you can live as the locals do – there is even one available on Mount Street. (onefinestay.com) 155

An enviable address Charles Street is one of the most coveted locations in Mayfair. We take you inside Number 9, a spacious refurbished house

ehind the elegant Queen Anne style façade of 9 Charles Street is something really quite special – a completely restructured, nine-bedroom retreat to call home. From the moment you step inside this ultra-modern, six-storey property with a full-size lift (which has three basement levels as well), you will notice how much of a refuge it truly is. As the building’s only resident, the only footsteps you will hear are your own, and although the bustle of Berkeley Square is just a stone’s throw away, it is quiet and peaceful. To give you a sense of the sheer size of this property, it includes a mews house with a separate entrance and spans some 13,546-square-feet, complete with all of the essentials and extras you could possibly need. A garage large enough to fit two Rolls-Royce Phantoms is situated at the Hays Mews entrance, but the real treat comes as you step down to the basement level below the lower-ground floor to your own personal spa, where you will find a beauty treatment room, steam room, sauna, a 55-foot swimming pool and gymnasium. Each bedroom is fitted with plush, neutral-toned interiors, and the kitchen and living space, stretching over 50-feet, anchors the property beautifully. Natural light floods in from a skylight, that sits on the ground of the stunning garden above. You can also enjoy having your own personal wine cellar at the ready for entertaining, and with a formal dining room that overlooks the garden, and an elegantly appointed drawing room on the ground floor, entertaining is simply a must. Guide price £39.5 million. For further enquires contact Charles Lloyd at Savills Mayfair (020 7578 5100; clloyd@savills.com)

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Q&A with… Charles Lloyd, head of Savills Mayfair and Marylebone How has Mayfair changed since you started working in the area? Twenty years ago, Mayfair was completely different – it was far more commercial. If you look at Mount Street now, it is full of shops, boutiques and restaurants, whereas 20 years ago it was far more business-like. There weren’t designer shops and smart restaurants, and the area was a bit more old-school and slightly sleepy compared to Knightsbridge or Belgravia. The arrival of outstanding amenities have certainly improved Mayfair’s residential appeal. Do you think that this is due to the gentrification of streets like Mount Street? Yes, Grosvenor Estate invested heavily in the re-generation of the public realms. That whole push on Mount Street really helped to revive things, but what Mayfair hasn’t had yet – but I think this is all about to change – is a big development. For example, if you look at Knightsbridge there was 199 Knightsbridge, and subsequently One Hyde Park – a landmark development that was the first to offer a hotel lifestyle, complete with 24-hour concierge and spa, and which really helped drive up prices in Knightsbridge at the time. For whom is this property ideal for? We have had a complete mix of interested buyers: we have had British buyers as well as buyers from Hong Kong, India, the Middle East, Russia and former CIS states. We are selling this property fully furnished: as you see it, but without the art work; we are selling a lifestyle. The New York Times reported that ‘London property is the new gold’. What are your thoughts on this? Our research department published a paper on the cost of buying, owning and selling a £10 million property in London, compared to some of the other major cities in the world, including Hong Kong, New York, and Singapore and London was still the cheapest in terms of buying costs, taxation, stamp duty and holding costs and ultimately the cheapest place to buy and own a property. So yes, the cost has gone up over the last couple of years, but it is still cheaper than anywhere else. It seems that there has been an increase in British buyers in the area. Have you noticed this? We’ve always had British buyers in Mayfair; the market has been very hot – between £1 million and £5 million – over the last couple of years, particularly for unmodernised flats or turn-key flats by developers in the prime streets. In terms of the buyer, they can be British or international, yet they are still buying for the same reason – they want to invest in the best. What is your advice to people looking to buy a property in Mayfair? While you might have to be patient for the right type of property to come onto the market, once you see it, it is important to act quickly and decisively. There is rarely much choice in the Mayfair market so if you pass up an opportunity you may have to wait years for the next one to come along.

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photograph by sarel jansen

The mayfair Magazine | Property

The particulars Sold for: £9,200,000 Bedrooms: four Bathrooms: two Square feet: 3,810

Street life Join us on a tour of Mayfair through Chesterton Humberts’ lens, of five of the most prestigious locations with its local office’s new director of sales, Ivor Campbell-Davys and director of lettings, Erik Holmgren

 22 Mount Street Why are properties on Mount Street so popular? This was one of the largest apartments to come to the market on this prime road and it sold for a record price. Mount Street is a mecca for some of the best restaurants and retailers of fashion, china, art, antiques and even cars. There’s a wonderful atmosphere created along the road and, of course, famous Berkeley Square is only just around the corner. What do you think Mount Street will look like in ten years? Will the few residential apartments still be considered one of the best places to live in the area? One thing can be said for sure, there will never be enough property in Mayfair to satisfy all of those who want to make it their home or the home of their investments. Mount Street will stay a focal point for luxury businesses, apartments and houses for a long time to come. 158

 South Audley Street Is South Audley Street looked upon with the same prestige as Mount Street? No, Mount Street is considered the most premier street in Mayfair. What has drawn residents to Chesterfield House historically? It’s a combination of seeing a large factors; the location is very increase in good, with easy access to relocation agent all the local amenities searches, which and Hyde Park. The Price per week: again points to block is very well £2,300 more confidence managed and benefits Bedrooms: two in the market as from 24-hour uniformed Bathrooms: two larger companies porters, plus it has lifts Square feet: 1,190 relocate staff. and is quietly positioned. Where do your clients What can we expect to see from the who lease properties in lettings market in Mayfair this year? I think we will see a stronger market than Mayfair come from? We have a very international tenant mix, the previous two years. The economy is mainly British, European and Asian. set to continue its growth and we are

The particulars

The mayfair Magazine | Property

 Green Street

The particulars Asking price: £8,500,000 Bedrooms: four Bathrooms: three Square feet: 3,946

 4 Chesterfield Street Why is Chesterfield Street a desirable place to live in Mayfair? Chesterfield Street is one of the most historic and grand roads in Mayfair. Aside from its architecture and occupants, it is also one of the only purely residential roads left within Mayfair and it is moments from Green Park. What does a blue plaque add in terms of value (either in price, or cultural value perhaps) to a property in Mayfair? This building retains two blue plaques, which increases the desirability of any house, particularly when the previous

Has Green Street always been considered one of Mayfair’s premier locations and why? In the modern era yes. When it was built, it was predominantly a street where trades people lived, but after its redevelopment during the 1820s, with new larger houses, it attracted new tenants. A bit of curiosa, the street was named after builder John Green, who died in 1737 when he fell down a well in Upper Grosvenor Street. Why are penthouses particularly popular properties for lettings? Being able to say you have a penthouse apartment is something certain tenants are willing to pay a little extra for. Obvious advantages are that they are at the top of the building and they usually come with outside space. This property was recently furnished with new interiors. Why is Price per week: this appealing to £3,000 tenants? Bedrooms: three Tenants at the Bathrooms: three upper end of the Square feet: 1,970 market are willing to pay a premium for something that has never been lived in before. Newly refurbished apartments tend to let quicker but also achieve a slight premium the first time they come on the market.

The particulars

occupants were so celebrated. Value wise, it’s difficult to give a number, but two blue plaques will always ensure you live in one of the most desirable homes in the area. After all, one is buying a chunk of history. Are historic properties that have recently been renovated popular among buyers in this area? Most of our buyers are time poor; a brilliant refurbishment means a ‘turn-key’ property purchase. Buyers wouldn’t want a Mayfair asset with the bother of refurbishing or general upkeep.

 33 Grosvenor Square

The particulars Sold for: £1,375,000 Bedrooms: two Bathrooms: two Square feet: 1,238

Is Grosvenor Square still considered the most prestigious location in Mayfair? Grosvenor Square is still one of the most celebrated and prestigious locations in Mayfair and has been for all of its 300-year history. With the sale of the American Embassy and Canadian High Commission and redevelopment, the square’s future looks just as prestigious. Why do you think it has such a lasting appeal? The relocation of the American Embassy frees up one terrace of this historic square. The plans of the new owners are not yet settled but whatever happens, the move will only add to the residential feel of Mayfair, adding to the reasons to make Mayfair home. 159

UPPER BROOK STREET, MAYFAIR, W1K Between Hyde Park & Grosvenor Square A beautifully refurbished Georgian townhouse, featuring large windows and a hall skylight flooding the house with lots of natural light. The accommodation comprises a generous entrance hall, two reception rooms, dining room, fabulous kitchen/breakfast room, 4 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, 2 cloakrooms, cellar and a utility room. EPC Rating E.

£7,700,000 FREEhold APPROXIMATELY 3013 sq.ft / 280 sq.m ABU DHABI MEGEVE •

John Taylor UK london@john-taylor.com 020 3284 1888

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The mayfair Magazine | Property

Island home

Private islands for sale are like treasure, especially in the Caribbean. This idyllic getaway is a place you can call your own, and experience 365 days of warm tropical weather WORDS: BETHAN REES

holiday on a Caribbean island conjures up images of azure blue waters, swaying palm trees and untouched coves. Now this could belong to you. Georges Island is in the Bay Islands archipelago, just 30 miles north of Honduras and is a private retreat that stretches over nearly 30 acres, with three beaches and an unspoiled mangrove forest. This rare find, situated on the world’s second largest coral reef, is also steeped in history: it was the outpost of infamous Welsh pirate Captain Henry Morgan and remnants of his stay can be spotted around the island, including a stone fort, gunpowder storage, cannonballs and glass bottles. The haven comes with every amenity you could need, with four rustic wooden suites, including eight bedrooms, nine bathrooms, a swimming pool and a boat house. You will find all the modern comforts such as air conditioning and the Internet, too. ‘It’s ideal for an active family like mine that loves outdoor activities,’ says the island’s current

owner. ‘The bone fishing is really terrific, or you could go deep-water fishing to catch marlin, tuna and mahi. Then on the other side you have the picture-perfect Caribbean beach with turquoise water, white sand and the coral reef.’ To ensure the island’s smooth running, there is a 55,000 gallon cistern and two 25kv diesel generators, we well as three boats, jet skis and kayaks. The three-staffed paradise is also easy to

‘It was the outpost of infamous Welsh pirate Captain Henry Morgan’ access from Roatan International Airport, and has a 2,500ft grass runway to accommodate a private aircraft. For further enquiries contact Trista Rullan, Hilton & Hyland Real Estate, Christie’s International Real Estate, 001 310 717 6677 (hiltonhyland.com) (georgescaribbeanisland.com)

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BERKELEY SQUARE W1 Rarely available, a magnificent newly refurbished apartment in this exclusive residential block with treetop views over Berkeley Square. The property has been finished to an exceptional specification to include, grand entrance hall, spacious reception/dining room, luxury fully fitted kitchen with utility area, master bedroom with en-suite shower room, two further double bedrooms, family bathroom, excellent storage throughout. Other benefits include, comfort cooling, heating and hot water included in the rent, additional basement storage and weekday porter. Price: £2,250 per week Furnished

S A C K V I L L E S T R E E T, M AY F A I R W 1 Quietly situated on the 7th floor of a stylish development close to Old Bond Street, this luxurious apartment has been finished to a high specification offering entrance hall, large reception/ dining room, fully fitted kitchen, two double bedrooms, luxury bathroom and utility cupboard. Other features include hardwood flooring to entrance hall and reception room, air conditioning, extensive range of fitted wardrobes to bedrooms and additional basement storage room. Price: £795 per week Furnished

Rent excludes tenant Referencing & Administration fees of £210 including VAT. Further information about other fees which may apply can be found on our website.

E. lettings@pastor-realestate.com

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