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Editor’s Letter | The MAYFAIR Magazine
From the
Editor S
eptember never quite loses that ‘Back to school’ feeling; suitcases are put away, new wardrobes appear as the A/W season kicks off and crisp, fresh air blasts away the muggy remnants of late summer. As the incredible events of Summer 2012 draw to a close and the capital bids farewell to the Olympics, we welcome the fashion world back to London, as we once again take our place on the global stage for Fashion Week. As with sport, this country has an excellent reputation for producing some of the most talented and hard-working people in the industry. This month, we have decided to honour the vast creative talent housed in London – from Central Saint Martins and Fashion East to numerous globally renowned, home-grown designers – with our first dedicated fashion issue. We have brought together everything that makes London so influential with our A-Z of British Fashion (page 15) and taken a look at the latest trends in luxury shopping, as Olivia PlattHepworth explores our new love of concept stores (page 22). Stephen Doig reports on the perhaps surprising relationship between fashion and philanthropy as chic charity, Fashion for the Brave, hosts a star-studded auction at The Dorchester hotel later this month (page 94). And outside of London, we meet fashion’s favourite architect – the legendary Manhattan-based Peter Marino – to talk about showcasing luxury brands from Bond Street to Shanghai (page 104) and look to our chic, Parisian neighbours who have a lot to celebrate this September (page 92). Of course fashion is not all about clothes; this month I was lucky enough to meet London’s most stylish lighting designer Alex Randall, whose work is as bold, dramatic and irreverently fun as anything you will see on the runway (page 26). Meanwhile, Richard Yarrow brings a whole new meaning to the term ‘made to order’ as he investigates the ultimate in luxury shopping – bespoke Lamborghinis… probably best not to impulse buy.
Elle Blakeman Acting Editor
Follow us on Twitter @MayfairMagazine
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Contents
September 2012
015
034
FEATURES
ART
INTERIORS
015 | A-Z of British fashion From Vivienne Westwood to Samantha Cameron, we bring you everything you need to know about British fashion 022 | A new concept Olivia Platt-Hepworth investigates the new trend for concept shops, both here and abroad 026 | Reclaiming the light Elle Blakeman meets lighting designer Alex Randall to discuss her controversial work 034 | The play’s the thing We visit St James’ first new theatre in 30 years 084 | The glamour of the East Kelly Green looks at the 25-year long career of Indian designers Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla 092 | Chloé. Attitudes Celebrate 60 years of French style with Chloé’s retrospective exhibit in Paris 094 | Here come the cavalry Stephen Doig investigates the incredibly stylish charity, Fashion for the Brave 108 | The exclusive Richard Yarrow reports on the ultimate in bespoke cars 112 | Flying high Mike Peake takes us inside the Farnborough air show
041 | Art news 042 | Exhibition focus Carol Cordrey looks at Hubert de Givenchy’s sculptures going to auction 045 | Prize lots 050 | The changing shape of beauty Tamsin Pickeral looks at the evolution of nudes in art
103 | Interiors news 104 | Building society We meet Peter Marino, the man behind your new and improved Bond Street
REGULARS 033 | Couture culture 036 | Mayfair and St James’ news 039 | My Mayfair 143 | Remembering Mayfair 144 | The Mayfair concierge
COLLECTION 055 | Watch news 056 | The luxury of time and space Annabel Harrison speaks to David Coleridge, chairman and chief executive of DM London 059 | Haute horology Eye-catching luxury picks 060 | The Cartier odyssey We explore 165 years of the French jewellery house 065 | Jewellery news 066 | Amazing grace The story behind the new ambassadress of luxury brand, Audemars Piguet 068 | Attention to detail Natalie Cox meets the man behind the bejewelled skulls, Theo Fennell
FASHION 072 | Fall, in love We bring you the best of the new A/W collections in this month’s fashion shoot 081 | Style spy/Style update 098 | Inside out Elle Blakeman explores why underwear is the key to great fashion
TRAVEL 117 | Travel news 118 | Riviera chic We visit the beautiful Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc, on the French Riviera 122 | City guide: Lisbon Explore Portugal’s capital with this month’s city guide
BEAUTY 125 | Beauty news 126 | Backstage beauty The best of the A/W 12 looks and how to get them 129 | Spa review
FOOD AND DRINK 133 | Food & drink news 134 | Go green Are vegetables having a moment? Cecilia Castle looks at the best places to go vegetarian in Mayfair
PROPERTY 154 | Urban sanctuary Wilton Street townhouse 167 | The streets of Mayfair Simon Barnes reports on the latest Mayfair moves 170 | Hot property King Street, St James 178 | Property news 180 | Voice of the country 184 | The Château at Cavalière Our top pick of the international market
Contributors | The MAYFAIR Magazine
The contributors SEPTEMBER 2012 s ISSUE 012
Acting Editor Elle Blakeman Art Editor Carol Cordrey Collection Editor Annabel Harrison Editorial Assistants Natalie Cox; Kate Racovolis Head of Design Hiren Chandarana Senior Designer Lisa Wade Production Manager Fiona Fenwick Production Hugo Wheatley, Alex Powell Editor-at-Large Lesley Ellwood Editorial Director Kate Harrison Client Relationship Director Kate Oxbrow Head of Finance Elton Hopkins
MIKE PEAKE Mike has written extensively The Sunday Times and Daily Telegraph. This month, he reports on the Farnborough Airshow and takes a look back at the vast heritage of Selfridges. RICHARD YARROW Richard is a freelance motoring journalist and a former associate editor of Auto Express. He writes for national newspapers, consumer publications and the automotive business press.
CAROL CORDREY Carol is an art critic and editor. She organises the annual London Ice Sculpting Festival and is permanently on the art scene bringing us the latest happenings.
STEPHEN DOIG Stephen is an award-winning fashion writer having worked for Harper’s Bazaar and Mr Porter. This month, he visits Lisbon and explores the connection between fashion and charity.
TAMSIN PICKERAL Tamsin is a published author, art historian and critic. One of her recent books was voted within the top 50 Art Books of the Year by the Financial Times. This month, she explores the history of the nude in art.
SIMON BARNES Simon is a property consultant with over 20 years of experience, focusing on the prime residential market in Mayfair and Belgravia. This month, he talks to us about the latest news in Mayfair.
JAMES KNAPP London-based James first picked up a camera at just nine and was hooked. He has assisted a variety of photographers before finding his niche shooting fashion and jewellery.
KATE RACOVOLIS Recently graduating with a Master’s from Columbia University’s Journalism School, Kate has written for The New York Review of Magazines and this month reports on the latest beauty trends.
Associate Publisher Sophie Roberts Managing Director Eren Ellwood
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S E P T E m b E r 2012
WHARF
ALL THAT GLITTERS
HARD LINES
BRIT MUSCLE MAN TOM HARDY CUTS A FINE FIGURE IN HIS LATEST RELEASE
The brains behind the most beautiful baubled bags in Britain, Anya Hindmarch MBE
READY TO WEAR Work this season’s key trends from the office to the after-party
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READY TO WEAR
WORK THIS SEASON’S KEY TRENDS FROM THE OFFICE TO THE AFTER-PARTY
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IMAGE: SVETLANA ZAKHAROVA WEARING A WATCH FROM MILLENARY STARLIT SKY COLLECTION, FROM A SELECTION, AUDEMARS PIGUET WATCH (WWW.AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM) SEE PAGE 66
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The MAYFAIR Magazine | Feature
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of
British fashion
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Asprey
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Housed in the heart of Mayfair, Asprey has been keeping London in glamorous jewellery and luxury goods since 1781.
NECKLACE, £5,500, (WWW.ASPREY.COM)
Sarah Burton
Burberry
Since taking over at the helm of Alexander McQueen in 2010, the designer has gone from strength to strength, winning Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards in 2011 and, of course, designing that wedding dress.
Beginning with gabardine coats in the trenches of the First World War, Burberry has brought its original utilitarian design into the twenty-first century with style. With Christopher Bailey in charge, Burberry continues to celebrate luxury British fashion in each collection.
Burlington Arcade
Browns Founded and curated by Joan Burnstein and her husband Sidney, Browns is known for thrusting new design talent into the spotlight, with discoveries including Comme des Garçons, Hussein Chalayan and Alexander McQueen.
Orlebar Brown Orlebar Brown has taken poolside style to a more refined level, with shorts, T-shirts and accessories designed by founder and photographer Adam Brown.
ABOVE: SHORTS, £195 (WWW.ORLEBARBROWN.CO.UK); RIGHT: SHOES, £360 WWW.CHURCH-FOOTWEAR.COM)
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TRENCH, £995, BURBERRY LONDON, (WWW.BURBERRY.COM)
Samantha Cameron
Central Saint Martins
The London University has produced many of the most influential creative forces at work today across the globe, from actor Colin Firth to Céline’s Phoebe Philo.
Politics has never looked so stylish. Our ‘first lady’ always steps out looking immaculate and elegant, while championing new and established British brands.
Church’s One of London’s finest men and women’s shoemakers, Church’s have handmade quality in its 300-year-old genes.
IMAGES: FEATUR FEATUREFLASH EA EATUR EFLASH / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
One of London’s oldest shopping arcades, the Burlington experience feels like stepping into a jewellery box. Filled with bespoke luxury fashion and lifestyle brands, the arcade is something of a national treasure.
Alfred Dunhill Dunhill’s world of luxurious boys’ toys brings classic and contemporary British style together under one roof with bespoke suits and accessories.
e Fashion East
Cutler and Gross
These suitcases may change in colour with the seasons, but the classic, signature design of its leather trunks have remained the same for over 100 years. SUITCASE, £1,200 (WWW.GLOBETROTTER1897.COM)
Cutler and Gross’ eyewear has always taken a minimalistic approach in its collections. In the words of Graham Cutler on their design: ‘It should be practical, functional then look good – in that order.’
f Theo Fennell
Lulu Kennedy has nurtured new and upcoming British designers for over a decade at the non-profit Fashion East. The prestigious launch pad into the fashion world can count Richard Nicoll, Holly Fulton and Jonathan Saunders among its many success stories.
d g Globe-Trotter
The MAYFAIR Magazine | Feature
Skulls, crosses and snakes are the lifeblood of Theo Fennell’s edgy take on fine jewellery and silverware, but originality and quality are at the forefront of each of the designer’s works.
RING, £11,500 (WWW.THEOFENNELL.COM)
Garrard Reinventing the formation of precious jewels for centuries, Garrard is the world’s oldest jeweller, with heritage dating back to the eighteenth century.
Daphne Guinness Known for her eccentricity, the platinum blonde heiress with chocolate brown streaks and her enviable wardrobe of haute couture, Daphne Guinness has become a style icon in her own right. IMAGE: FEATUREFLASH / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
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From food to Fendi, the internationally famous department store in Knightsbridge is a one-stop wonder for luxury shopping in all its forms.
Hirsch Known for its handmade platinum engagement rings, Hirsch’s jewellery collection is both artful and individual.
Roksanda Ilincic Her sophisticated demi-couture has earned Serbian born and CSM-educated Ilincic kudos from the global fashion crowd for her use of brilliant colour and innovative silhouettes.
Nicholas Kirkwood
i
Kirkwood’s fun and edgy shoes are recognisable from a mile away. Kirkwood has come to be one of the most exciting women’s shoe designers to emerge from Britain.
j
Jewels: Solange Azagury-Partridge
Solange AzaguryPartridge fuses fine, classic jewellery with pop-culture, with her internationally sought-after ‘Hot Lips’ rings.
Stephen Jones
Stephen Jones’ is the Godfather of British millinery, and has taken headwear to a whole new height, adorning the heads of celebrities aplenty, from Kate Moss to Kylie Minogue and Katy Perry.
k
HAT, £825, (WWW.STEPHENJONESMILLINERY. COM), IMAGE: PETER ASHWORTH
Christopher Kane
SHOES, £895, NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD, 020 7290 1404
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Adding that splash of colour that we all need – digital prints and embellishments are favourites of Christopher Kane, and his collections are always full of colour and one-ofa-kind patterns.
RING, £12,000 (WWW.SOLANGE.CO.UK)
Harrods
h
Anya Hindmarch The little bow that trademarks each of Anya Hindmarch’s feminine accessories make her carefully crafted and designed bags objects of desire across the world.
The MAYFAIR Magazine | Feature
Liberty of London The Tudor building on Regent Street has been home to Liberty for over a century, and while its exterior remains antique, the luxury department store carries some of the most contemporary and creative designers in the country.
m l Stella McCartney
Another CSM graduate, Stella McCartney has made a name for herself in fashion across the globe with eco-friendly luxury ready-to-wear and her finely tailored suits.
Erdem Moralioğlu
n
o p Net-a-Porter
Erdem launched his own label in 2005 in London and has since been an award-winning designer whose collections are rarely seen without delicate lace and brilliant colour.
Natalie Massenet revolutionised online shopping in 2000, when she brought our favourite brands to our fingertips with Net-a-Porter – dangerously convenient.
London is a breeding ground of hot new talent. The latest brands to catch the fashion set’s pradaclad eyes include Alexis Borrell and Atis Artemjevs – watch this space.
Jenny Packham
Packham’s ethereal and fit-for-a-princess dresses are often seen on the chic shoulders of our Duchess of Cambridge.
STELLA IMAGE: FEATUREFLASH / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
Ones to Watch
SHOES, £995, (WWW.CHARLOTTEOLYMPIA.COM)
Peter Pilotto
Charlotte Olympia
Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos are the dynamic designers who create sculpted, bold and vibrant readyto-wear collections. Pilotto is the textiles and print guru of the duo, while De Vos keeps a keen eye on silhouette and drapes.
Accessorising A-list celebrities including Sarah Jessica Parker, Blake Lively and Beyoncé with her signature ‘island’ platform and the gold spider web on the sole of each of Charlotte Olympia’s designs.
Phoebe Philo Phoebe Philo found her niche as Stella McCartney’s assistant at Chloé. Today she is the creative director of the French house of Céline, designing with her signature minimalist panache. 19
qr Savile Row
Mary Quant
The inventor of the mini skirt and a huge icon of the Swinging Sixties, Mary Quant’s influences can still be seen today.
The international designation for the finest bespoke tailored suits, Savile Row has been an icon of beautifully made, luxurious men’s suiting for centuries.
Somerset House Whether taken over by families at Christmas for ice skating, or hosting London Fashion Week, Somerset House effortlessly marries tradition and heritage with state-of-the-art design.
Smythson
From the pale-blue featherweight paper to its leather-bound notebooks, travel wallets and diaries, Smythson is the epitome of stationery with true fashion sense.
ABOVE: IMAGE COURTESY OF BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL
TRAVEL WALLET, £395, (WWW.SMYTHSON.COM)
Jonathan Saunders Clean and crisp but with a splash of colour and quirk, Saunders’ collections are always a treat to see. He has collaborated with many British institutions, including his recent line for Smythson.
s
Paul Smith For decades, Paul Smith – both the man and the brand – have been synonymous with British fashion, bringing multicoloured stripes and injections of colour into classic-cut clothing and chic accessories.
Selfridges
IMAGE: NANDO MACHADO / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
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The contemporary department store has stayed close to its roots, but has proven it can be contemporary and quick to move with the times, promoting design collaborations and good oldfashioned British fun in all of its character.
The MAYFAIR Magazine | Feature
Philip Treacy His hats often resemble more of a work of art than a functional hat, but regardless of shape or size, Treacy brings a creativity driven by the love of his craft from his natural talent and early mentorship from Stephen Jones.
Turnbull & Asser
tv
One of Jermyn Street’s gems, shirtmaker and tailor Turnbull & Asser know how to put needle to fabric with a heritage of over 120 years.
u w Umbrellas by Swaine Adeney Brigg
The Brigg umbrella is not only a necessity in dreary English weather, but the ultimate style accessory, symbolising centuries of handmade craftsmanship.
HAT, FROM A SELECTION, (WWW.PHILIPTREACY.CO.UK)
JACKET, £925, (WWW.TURNBULLANDASSER.CO.UK)
E. Tautz
Whilst keeping the refined cuts and tailoring of Savile Row at its core, E. Tautz breaks away from traditional men’s suiting by introducing a contemporary British personality to the brand with injections of brilliant hues of colour.
Victoria Beckham Style icon-turneddesigner, Ms Beckham wowed the fashion crowd with her sleek, tailored designs, and minimalist colours, and is rarely seen out of one of her own outfits.
Vivienne Westwood The left-of-centre and artfully bizarre style of Vivienne Westwood has won her tremendous credibility on the international fashion stage.
Temperley
If it is not embellished or printed, it’s not Temperley. Alice Temperley has focused her career on designing garments with fine detail that reflect a truly British personality.
x
Amanda Wakeley
Draped dresses and red carpet wonders, Amanda Wakeley has been designing under her eponymous brand since 1990 and was awarded an OBE to her name for services to British fashion.
y
You Tube
Why wait for the fashion reports when you can now stream shows as they happen directly to your iPad. The likes of Burberry, Peter Pilotto and Issa London have signed on for the digital experience, all except Tom Ford who enjoys an invite-only policy to shows…
IMAGE: H HELGA ESTEB / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
Zzzz
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After six days, 59 catwalk shows, countless models, changes, parties and vodka martinis, London post-LFW calls for a much needed catch-up on beauty sleep.
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Have concept stores changed the way we shop? Olivia PlattHepworth looks at the shifting nature of lifestyle shopping
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IMAGE: BURGES
The MAYFAIR Magazine | Feature
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n a chic, upmarket store in the heart of Paris, a French antique leather chair stands proudly next to a cheap, biodegradable table made in Japan, there are appliances that look like they could be sold in Halfords and a Welsh dresser stands with each drawer open, bursting with labelled clothes: welcome to the world of concept stores. Inspired by a certain consumer weariness of soulless purchasing, in addition to the isolation of online stores, concept stores are cropping up in metropolitan centres across the world, aiming to fill a gap in the market for something a little more fulfilling. Unlike many high-street shops, concept stores offer a more sensory and atmospheric experience. There is usually a strong focus on layout, design and architecture, and the most interesting are able to showcase a number of brands or designers, all tied together by a specific theme, such as luxury, ecological or street wear or young designers. Like an online store, you will find things from a number of designers, across as many varied genres as clothing, cosmetics, shoes, furniture, ceramics, and technology, allowing people to access a wealth of different products, all in the same experience. Though the focus is on the (carefully selected) products, many house cafés which are also a space for art installations, exhibitions and music concerts, adding to the cultural fabric of the place. ‘Concept stores give a fresh energy to retailing and are often places to find design gems. They have continued to be a real feature of the Design Festival each year,’ says Ben Evans, director of the London Design Festival (which opens this month). However, concept stores are not just being established by independent owners as many brands are utilising this new retail practice as a way to intrigue and engage consumers. Wolf & Badger recently opened its flagship store on Dover Street in Mayfair, following the success of its smaller sister store in Notting Hill. It plans to support emerging designers, giving them a much-needed exhibition space, with the majority of the profits generated from sales being kept by the designers themselves. Not only does the store give young designers the opportunity to showcase their wares, it exposes them to consumers that have an interest in buying unique items before they become part of the mass market. Many concept stores are firm in not exposing shoppers to advertising. Merci, a concept store in Paris, holds the view that shoppers should not
‘Concept stores offer a more sensory, atmospheric experience’
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TOP & RIGHT: MERCI BOUTIQUE
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be bombarded with marketing.‘There is no music in the store, no advertising; our employees on the shop floor do not wear a uniform, they are identified simply by an apron. This allows our customers to focus their senses on the products. And this is a luxury today, to be able to enjoy, smell, taste things in simplicity, as they are,’ says Jean-Luc Colonna D’Istria, managing director of Merci. A self-proclaimed ‘destination’ store, customers can buy clothing, sunglasses, jewellery, homewares, perfume, lifestyle products as well as items for the garden. What makes it unique is that unlike a department store, where goods are often scaled by price on different floors, items are displayed together, in a ‘mish-mash’. ‘We select all of the items that we sell with great attention, no matter the price. We take care in choosing beautiful, well-designed products, whether it’s a vintage piece or something contemporary. This is why the store has become so popular with such a wide variety of people, we cater to all and have not chosen to target a certain demographic,’ he adds. Concept stores push boundaries with layout and interior design in a way that traditional stores have not. Merci has no shop front; a café lined with second-hand books and the canteen are the ‘shop fronts’. Visitors walk through these spaces and are surprised when they reach
the huge, three storey, loft-style warehouse that sits at the back of the building; completely opposite to traditional retail stores. Another example is when Lurdes Bergada commissioned agency, Deardesign, to construct an ‘igloo’ from a thousand pieces of beechwood within the expansive store in Barcelona three years ago. This feature, combined with concrete, wood and cement has the look and feel of an urban warehouse. The result is clean lines and a simplicity which is utterly in sync with the brand’s clothing. It is interesting that the brand opened a concept store, given that it was first established in 1978, and already has five stores throughout Spain. However, the opening of the new – and very different store – shows the impact that a concept store can add to an oh-so-chic repertoire. Concept stores are also being opened by mainstream brands to show how their products can be used in diverse and attention-grabbing ways – and often the products are shown in lifestyle situations. The high-end audio technology retailer, Bose ®, has several concept stores worldwide with listening rooms, complete with luxurious furniture, so that customers can see and experience its products in real situations. Customers now stand in a simulated lounge room, rather than a display room of old. And as we all look to more sustainable and ethical shopping, it seems that the popularity of concept stores is likely to soar.
The MAYFAIR Magazine | Feature
‘There is no music in the store, no advertising; our employees on the shop floor do not wear a uniform’ – Jean-Luc Colonna D’Istria, managing director of Merci
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IMAGE: THE DREAMERS
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The MAYFAIR Magazine | Feature
Reclaiming the light Lighting designer with a penchant for taxidermy and an obsession with bulbs, Alex Randall’s star has been rising ever since she won her first award and subsequent place on the shelves of Liberty. As she returns from a stint at Lane Crawford and a commission by Freddie Mercury’s foundation, The Mayfair Magazine meets the women who made lighting cool WORDS: ELLE BLAKEMAN P H O T O G R A P H Y: C L A I R E R O S E N
‘I
want Elton and George Michael to get into a bidding war over it,’ says Alex Randall, the petite twenty-something lighting designer, incongruously standing in her masculine, almost mechanic-like warehouse in Battersea. She is referring to a large, towering statue of Freddie Mercury, one arm up in victorious defiance, the other using the microphone stand as a cane. ‘It’s going to the Freddie For A Day charity to be auctioned off for their annual ball this month’. I can certainly picture it gracing an enclave of Elton’s (by all accounts) huge, fresh-flower adorned home. Randall is not at all what I expected. Famous for her dramatic, artistic lighting – often dark, sometimes amusing pieces, she greets me in a simple black dress, half covered with a blue workers overall (that she will later jump out of to become party-ready). Young, pretty and oddly normal, it throws a whole new light, if you’ll forgive me, on the woman who brought us dead squirrels crawling up a wall, a light bulb between their teeth. ‘I am just a hoarder by nature, as you can probably tell,’ she says, with a quick nod to the studio dotted with fascinating objects – antlers supporting coats, a headless statue, boxes of light bulbs from assorted eras and places, ribbed glass cylinders, some sort of historical oxygen tank, books on subjects as diverse as WWII to heroes of Scandinavian lighting, and an array of
coffee paraphernalia that depicts a true addict (‘my assistant basically just pours it into my veins,’ she says). ‘Taxidermy is exactly that, I am reclaiming something that would otherwise be considered rubbish. Take birds: they are culled all year and then thrown away.’ Although being most famous for her taxidermy – putting a velvet lampshade in the
‘Putting a velvet lampshade in the beak of a former duck is only a part of her repertoire’ beak of a former duck will tend to do that for you – it is only a part of her repertoire. ‘I started with reclaiming,’ she says. ‘And then it just developed from there,’. The first piece she did, a nostalgic yet whimsical rotary phone, ended up in Liberty, but not in that annoying, cliquey ‘everything fell easily into place’ kind of way. ‘I stalked them!’ she says. ‘Literally; you have to. I went into the store to see Ross, who was the buyer then, and he refused to see me, because you had to be vetted or something. And I literally followed him around the shop with my phone light. And then later I was doing a show [Pulse – an award for lighting designers] and he turned out to be one of the judges. I sat at a table opposite him, and I said, “Do you know who I am? Do you
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The MAYFAIR Magazine | Feature
remember me?”. I told him that I was the girl with the phone, he looked horrified and said “Oh my God!”. However, Ross was clearly impressed with ‘the girl with the phone’, as Randall won the award, and immediately started stocking the piece at Liberty. Indeed Ross was so taken with Randall’s talent that he later brought her with him when he left to go to Lane Crawford, Hong Kong’s impressively palatial version of Department store shopping – a place that makes Selfridges look like Primark. ‘He was like my ambassador in Hong Kong,’ she says. ‘On the opening night I was there and I don’t know if people really got it. Over here, we’ve been doing taxidermy forever, but over there people look at you like you are a lunatic. But they loved it. It’s this aspiration thing, if we have it over here in Europe, then they want it over there. I had to keep saying I was from London – they love London!,’ she says. Back home, she is now mainly in demand from bars, restaurants and clubs, all looking to distinguish themselves from their soulless competitors with one of her lights, not to mention an ideal talking piece for any awkward silences that might occur there. Most of her work however, goes overseas, surprisingly to America. ‘There are three different types American’s who buy my work – you get the
trendy New Yorkers, and then you get the San Francisco set who are a more quirky kind of edgy. And then you get the Southerner’s or the more middle ground people who just love dead things,’ she says, neatly summing up the vast differences between the States. An animal lover, she insists that taxidermy is about more about refusing to waste anything than the shock value. ‘You should use every single part - If you eat meat, then you have to be conscious of using everything and not wasting,’ she says. ‘The more work I do with animals, the more
‘The taxidermy is exactly that, I am reclaiming something that would otherwise be considered rubbish’ IMAGES: FAR LEFT: BAKELITE PHONE R&R; LEFT: BAKELITE PHONE; ABOVE: THE LAST SUPPER
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skins I do, the more I become aware,’ she says. ‘I went to an abattoir; I think if you are a meat eater you should do it. It has definitely made me more careful, it opens your eyes and I now don’t eat meat if I don’t know where it has come from. I’m probably a nightmare at dinner, but I do tend to avoid meat as much as I can unless I know. It is all about where the animal is living and where it is slaughtered, and it’s that stress period in between’. Lighting designing for Randall seems to be a sort of sixth sense. Anyone who can look at a collection of bric a brac and see a light rather than a need for a skip clearly has something about them. ‘For me it was always so natural. I’m not saying I see something than then immediately think of a light, although I do often do that, but I have always been fascinated by lights. One of my grandfathers was an electrician, the other was a toolmaker, so nothing was out of bounds. I made my light when I was eight years old and I’ve been making them ever since. My dad had this huge workshop so I was always hanging out and getting into trouble. I liked going in on my own and doing things. I remember some of them, it was probably just a bulb stuck inside something and I thought it was amazing,’ she says. A piece can take her years to finish. ‘I can have an object sitting around for three years before I figure out what I am doing with it,’ she says. ‘I just have things around me and I see that are interesting and then it can take months to actually make it. I never focus things solely on one thing, I always have other things going on.’ This is demonstrated by the number of times Randall jumps up excitedly to show me something that has been triggered through our conversation: a giant light-sabre style bulb, a collection of stringclick lights that look like they belong on the lower steer decks on the Titanic, the ribbed glass that turns out to be the insulators that run on electrical overhead mains. ‘Oh and this, I’m so excited about this!’ she says jumping up again. She reappears with the huge dusty cylinder that she just got from eBay. ‘It’s an oxygen tank from a Second World War flying fortress! I was just like I don’t even know what I’m going to do with it, but I need it, I need this object.’ It’s an advert for the diversity of eBay if there ever was one; I silently wonder whether there was a bidding war. ‘I love the history behind it. Those things from history for me are just the most fascinating. It helps me develop my ideas conceptually if I pick an object like that,’ she says. ‘I like to
‘I like to think about history, and how you can bring that into the piece’ – Alex Randall
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The MAYFAIR Magazine | Feature
think about history, and how you can bring that into the piece. I suppose I am working on the edge of being an artist and a designer, and I take both things into consideration.’ The artist in her comes through in her photography, done by fine art and fashion photographer Claire Rosen. ‘With each picture, we try to tell a story.’ ‘I already know what this is going to be,’ she says pointing to the oxygen tank. ‘I’m going to have a photo shoot with men in Second World War masks. I don’t know what the piece will be yet but I know how I will photograph it!’ ‘When I was creating this piece, it was kind of this religious thing, the man is losing his faith, which is being flown away with the birds, and the big spear with a cage and nails was like a crown of thorns. I started thinking about the anti-pigeon spikes on the top of buildings, to get the tension between things. Photography in black and white is all well and good but there is no story. And this,’ she says pointing to her gramophone light suspendended from a hot air balloon, ‘was done in my friend Andy’s hot air balloon at 3am in a field in Devon. I just don’t know why more people don’t do this with lighting photography,’ she says with genuine surprise. And we’re back to the sixth sense thing again.
IN MEMORY OF FREDDIE Randall was commissioned by The Mercury Phoenix Trust to recreate the statue ‘In Memory of Freddie’ in Montreux. With the permission of Queen, Randall visited the statue to cast a mould of rawhide skin over the original statue of Mercury, forming a replica of the original with artful imperfection. The Mercury Phoenix Trust was founded after Freddie Mercury’s death in 1991 from AIDSrelated causes to help distribute funds from the Tribute Concert for AIDS Awareness, performed by the remaining members of Queen. Ever since, the trust has donated some US $15 million to the fight against AIDS and making over 750 grants to charities worldwide. Randall used the natural environment around the Lake Geneva at Montreux to create the statue as a piece to denote that while something may be gone, it is not forgotten and that our memories are rarely perfect. The crisp air in which the rawhide dried at Montreux meant that each piece is individual, with some curling or lying flat, while others dry with holes or are solid. The varied hides allow the light placed within the statue to radiate in different strengths, illuminating the legendary singer with a golden glow. (www.freddieforaday.com)
LEFT: DUCK LIGHT; ABOVE: BIRD LIGHT
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The MAYFAIR Magazine | Regulars
Couture outure culture Fall into vintage and luxury this month with beautiful clothes, fabulous flowers and a return to Downton WORDS: ELLE BLAKEMAN
After months of patient waiting, we can finally welcome the cast of Downton Abbey back to our screens. Season three promises more beautifully clad society scandal from the Roaring Twenties. September also sees the launch of Atelier Swarovski’s new jewellery collection inspired by legendary former US Vogue editor Diana
Vreeland – a bold, vintage-style range of resin rings and cuffs, crystal necklaces and ribbon-tie pendants designed to celebrate Vreeland’s love of dramatic pieces (www.swarovski.com). And with our love of the past reawakened, now is the ideal time to
pick up the beautifully written
Tigers in Red Weather, the debut novel by Liza Klaussmann. Set in the sultry summer heat of Martha’s Vineyard, with plenty of seduction and midnight gin parties, it’s the perfect way to round off the summer (£12.99, Picador). Another debut focusing on past glamour is Raf Simons’ first haute couture collection for Christian
Dior. Featuring a return to Dior’s classic, feminine shapes with full skirts and sleek cigarette pants, with a dash of his own signature brightcoloured grandeur. The catwalk was bordered by floor-to-ceiling flowers: delphiniums, orchards and mimosa, in a nod to Dior’s own floral obsession. And if you’ve been inspired to surround yourself with fashionable fresh flowers, go to Wild at Heart at Liberty for stunning new season blooms meticulously selected for their beauty (www.wildatheart.com).
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: WILD AT HEART AT LIBERTY; A MODEL ON THE CATWALK AT DIOR HAUTE COUTURE A/W 12; TIGERS IN RED WEATHER; A PIECE FROM THE ATELIER SWAROVSKI DIANA VREELAND RANGE ; © COPYRIGHT ITV PLC 2012
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The MAYFAIR Magazine | Feature
THE PLAY’S THE THING L
ondon theatre is often guilty of extremes: huge venues host musicals and big name stars, whilst miniscule ‘intimate’ stages often thrust you a bit too much into the thick of it. Robert Mackintosh used this lack of a happy medium to his advantage, and this month, will open the first theatre in central London for 30 years. Featuring a main theatre alongside a studio, the St James Theatre will accommodate a variety of live entertainment, which will be broadcast to a worldwide audience via online television. A truly modern theatre-going experience, situated just minutes from Buckingham Palace, the audience can enjoy the relative calm compared to the busy West End, whilst still being conveniently close to the centre of town. The opening play – Bully Boy – comes from then pen of acclaimed comedian, author and broadcaster Sandi Toksvig. Bully Boy centres around an investigation in a unit of the British Army regarding gross misconduct, tackling the moral issues of contemporary military occupation and its effect on the mental health of serving soldiers. With a cast including BAFTA- and Golden-Globe-winning actor Anthony Andrews, you will be glued to your seat for the duration. Bully Boy runs from 18 September – 27 October 2012. St James Theatre, 12 Palace Street, SW1E 5JA (0844 264 2140; www.stjamestheatre.co.uk)
‘The audience can enjoy the relative calm compared to the busy west end’
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IMAGE: TIM KAVANAGH
Going to the prom Presented by the much-loved radio veteran Terry Wogan, BBC Proms in the Park will be headlined this year by Kylie Minogue. The petite pop icon, who has sold over 65 million records worldwide, will take to the stage for the finale of two months of proms at a show which also constitutes the largest outdoor classical music event in Britain. Also contributing to what is sure to be an atmospheric evening are tenor Alfie Boe and operatic pop group Il Divo, who were recently named Artist of the Decade at the Classic Brits. Don’t forget your Union Jack and a picnic hamper. Proms in The Park in Hyde Park, £35, 8 September (www.bbc.co.uk)
MAYFAIR & ST JAMES’ NEWS
Life on the inside Admit it, if you don’t already know what lies behind your neighbour’s door, you certainly wouldn’t mind taking a peek. Luckily for you, then, many a glorious Mayfair building such as Home House will throw open its doors this month as part of Open House London 2012. As well as houses, government buildings, schools and town halls, alongside many other places of architectural interest will be welcoming you in. This year’s theme is ‘The Changing Face of London,’ and the organisers wish to highlight the role of architecture and contemporary design in revitalising places. Any excuse to have a nosey look around beautiful buildings is fine by us. Open House London 2012, 22-23 September (www.londonopenhouse.org)
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Our city is a hub of creativity this month, as we host Fashion Week and London Design Week. Meanwhile, Berkeley Square sees the return of the LAPADA Art and Antiques Fair W O R D S : N ATA L I E C O X
Tastefully tied up A silk scarf is the epitome of chic, and when the accessory is also inspired by The Dorchester hotel, designed by a hot British duo (Teatum Jones) and sold at the style emporium Liberty, it would be rude not to treat yourself. With the world’s focus so heavily on London this year, it is a fitting yet discreet way of showing your appreciation of the city, whilst supporting an up-andcoming design team so talented that Liberty snapped them up after just one LFW season. The Dorchester scarf, sold exclusively at Liberty from 18 September (www.liberty.co.uk)
The MAYFAIR Magazine | Regulars
She’s in fashion London is one of the world’s fashion pillars, a fact that is never more evident than when the industry elite flock to Somerset House for the shows. To get in on the action, snap up a Fashion VIP ticket for London Fashion Weekend, and ensure your front row seat for the Trend catwalk show, which will fill you in on next season’s hottest new looks. You can also tote your limited-edition VIP bag with pride, whilst enjoying complimentary fizz and canapés from the man behind the Michelin-starred Tom’s Restaurant, Tom Aiken. Workshops from Elizabeth Arden and hairstyling from Toni&Guy complete what is sure to be the most fashionable weekend of the year. Fashion VIP, London Fashion Weekend at Somerset House, £155, available daily from 20-23 September (www.londonfashionweekend.co.uk)
In with the old
Design for living
Connoisseurs of fine art and design will gather at the LAPADA Art and Antiques Fair in the heart of Mayfair this month. The fair is the first of the major antiques events of the autumn and showcases the top art and antique dealers in the country, as well as select few European specialists. Treasures from the ancient to contemporary will be available, ranging from values of £500 to £500,000. The fair is an event suitable for buyers of art for the first time, as well as serious collectors. Download the iPhone App which pins the fair’s 600 art and antiques dealer members across the country. The LAPADA Art and Antiques Fair runs from 19 – 23 September, Berkeley Square. (www.lapadalondon.com)
This month sees the arrival of the London Design Festival. We are particularly excited for Crush, a showcase from Fredrikson Stallard at the David Gill gallery. The exhibition will feature a series of new low tables and chaises from the design duo, inspired by the form of crumpled sheet metal, lending a bold contemporary feel to the works. The pieces perfectly illustrate the duo’s skill in combining the craftsmanship of the hand with the perfection of computers and technology. Crush is on from12 September at David Gill, King Street, SW1Y 6QP (www.londondesignfestival.com)
ABOVE FROM TOP: MIRROR, 2011, FREDRIKSON STALLARD, DAVID DAV A ID GILL AV GALLERIES. RARE FRENCH EMPIRE ORMOLU MANTEL TEL C CLOCK, LOCK, ‘THE OATH OF THE HORATI’, FRANCE, C.1805, RICHARD PRICE & ASSOCIATES ASSOCIATES. LEFT: LEFT LEATHER BAG COMMEMORATING A YEAR IN SPORT, ITALIAN C.1960, SMITH & ROBINSON.
Temperley treats Alice Temperley is fast becoming one of the biggest names in British fashion. It is no surprise, then, that high street stores have been queuing up to collaborate with her, and John Lewis have been selected. Somerset by Alice Temperley is named after the designer’s beloved home county. From beaded, Indian evening gowns to sheer, panelled two-tone dresses, this 60-piece collection is classic Temperley playfulness, all modelled by the ever-delightful Lily Donaldson. Somerset by Alice Temperley, in selected John Lewis Stores from 4 September (www.johnlewis.com) 37
The MAYFAIR Magazine | Regulars
my
MAYFAIR A N N I K A P U R D E Y,
JAMES PURDEY & SONS
A
nnika Purdey is not at all what you expect. Although the seventh-generation of one of London’s oldest gun and rifle makers, the former model’s style is thoroughly modern – more city-chic than country girl. Her family business, James Purdey & Sons has remained a family-owned company since it was established in 1814 and has become known for its quality in manufacturing in rifles, adapting to technology while staying true to their iconic designs. ‘Although intrinsically very traditional, I think every collection also has something pretty fresh. I’m a huge fan of British fashion in general; it’s something we do extremely well in this country’ she says. Her own look is a hybrid of her family’s brand and the rest of Mayfair’s luxury destination shops, with everyday staples being a Purdey jacket with jeans and Tod’s. ‘Walking down Mount Street always makes me happy,’ she says. ‘Mayfair is a beautiful place to be; stunning architecturally, fabulous shops and wonderful places to eat.’ And she has her culinary Mayfair all mapped out. ‘I adore George which is right opposite the shop; delicious food, friendly staff, and a fabulous cosy downstairs bar. Mark’s [Club] is another favourite, I love the drawing room and the outdoor terrace. Kai is a great Chinese restaurant virtually next door and our children love it, and Le Petite Maison has a great ambiance and food. For a quick coffee Mount St Deli or Richoux always hits the spot.’ Meanwhile, Purdey’s personal connection to Mayfair is not just about her predecessors: she was married in The Grosvenor Chapel on South Audley Street, where her children, Octavia and Cosmo (now 15 and 9) were christened. She also celebrated her 21st, 30th and 40th birthday at Mayfair’s infamous haunt, Annabel’s (‘the roast chicken is the best in the world!’). ‘Having one’s name above the door, on that corner of Mount Street and South Audley Street, certainly makes me feel very connected to my family history,’ she says. Clearly – and rightfully – proud of her family Purdey heritage, and her memories of the shop in Mayfair are fond and many. She recalls visiting her father Richard in the shop, who retired as Chairman in 2007. ‘I always found the Long Room at Purdey very comforting,’ she says. ‘It’s filled with family portraits, and it smells great: woody, leathery and with a hint of gun oil!’ Ultimately it all comes down to legacy. ‘Purdey as a brand is about as quintessentially British as you can get, and Mayfair is just the perfect location for us. I hope we will remain there for many generations to come.’
‘I’m a huge fan of British fashion in general; it’s something we do extremely well in this country’ – Annika
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: ANNIKA PURDEY; MOUNT STREET DELI; PURDEY; GROSVENOR CHAPEL; PURDEY; TOD’S
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LSV_citymag-may 2012:Layout 2
SUMMER SHOW Post War Winners
17/5/12
13:07
Page 1
Asprey 1966 sterling silver tea and coffee set. London hallmark
Silver vaults the London
the home of silver shopping
British Silver Buy Use Collect Treasure Post War Winners Exhibition: May to September 2012 Leading Modern British Silversmiths www.thesilvervaults.com
The MAYFAIR Magazine | Art
Q&A with…
Victoria Crowe about her colourful new paintings and book launch
Mayfair is full of award-winning artists this September as several new exhibits create a huge buzz in London’s art world WORDS: CAROL CORDREY
Minimum detail; maximum effect Returning to the Timothy Taylor Gallery for his fifth solo show, award-winning American artist, Alex Katz, will be greeted with the warmest of welcomes. He brings his signature style of plain backgrounds against which he places subjects, defined with economy of line and minimal tonal effects: a 21st-Century evocation of the 1930s Bauhaus maxim, ‘Less is more’. The unfussy appearance allows the character of each subject to instantly connect the viewer. Typically, a bird or a tree makes the boldest of statements when viewed against a vast, simple, blue sky and his portraits are magnetic because they are stripped down to the minimum of detail yet the dramatic colour contrasts and subtle expressions leave viewers in no doubt as to whether they are in the company of an amiable, assertive or alluring personality. Alex Katz, From 5 September, Timothy Taylor Gallery (www.timothytaylorgallery.com)
Beyond belief Ex-Turner-Prize nominee, Nathan Coley is interested in the relationships between public places and self-expression. This show has put his talent to full use resulting in sculpture, illuminated text, drawings and photography. The most dominant exhibit is created from scaffolding supporting the huge, illuminated words: A Place Beyond Belief – a quote from a New Yorker about her hopes for the city following 9/11. Monochrome photographs focus on people and places associated with demonstrations, while gold leaf deliberately conceals the names of the buildings and the personal messages, so that we are invited to compose the missing messages or dedications. A similar purpose is behind the eradication of inscriptions on gravestones; we don’t simply read them, we relate to them personally. Nathan Coley: A Place Beyond Belief, from 7 September at Haunch of Venison (www.haunchofvenison.com)
Q: Is your bold use of colour influenced by the Scottish Colourists? A: No, not at all, although I have worked in Scotland for many years following training at Kingston School of Art and the Royal College of Art. My use of colour stems from the Byzantine influence on early Italian art and its legacy through to the 20th century. I spend much time in Venice which yields amazing colour combinations that influence my paintings. Q: What is the focus of your book? A: The book is lavishly illustrated and my first, complete monograph and copies signed by myself and the author, Duncan Macmillan will be at the exhibition. It looks at the development of ideas from my student days to the present and it will include some of the work in the show. Q: Widespread acclaim for your paintings has resulted in prestigious collections such as the National Portrait Gallery purchasing them. What do you hope to achieve next? A: A lot of things are happening now: a large tapestry of my work is being woven at the Dovecot Studios in Edinburgh; a major Edinburgh Festival show is planned for 2014; and I have received some important commissions. Lastly, I am hoping that the Browse & Darby show will further my reputation in London. Victoria Crowe, 12 September – 5 October (www.browseanddarby.co.uk)
IMAGES: VIVIEN, 2012 BY ALEX KATZ; QUINCE AND FORTUNY FABRIC BY VICTORIA CROWE; THE HONOUR SERIES 03.03.09(B), 2012 (LEFT) AND THE HONOUR SERIES 06.12.09, 2012 (RIGHT) BOTH BY NATHAN COLEY
Art news
Q: Why does your work span such a variety of genres (portraiture, still-life, landscapes)? A: My paintings are often about the memory or aspects of a situation so the distinction between the genres disappears. Combining references to, say, art history/ landscape/human figure, gives the work many facets of meaning.
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Fashion and art are forever entwined because of the influence they have on each other. This month, at Christie’s in Paris, we will see this in action as one of the world’s greatest fashion designers, Hubert de Givenchy, creates a breathtaking show inspired by 17th-Century sculptor, François Girardon WORDS: CAROL CORDREY
Exhibition
focus T
he French aristocrat, Givenchy, is world famous for having developed a magnificent perfume business and couture house which created designs for icons such as Audrey Hepburn and Jacqueline Kennedy. What is less well known by the public here, is that he also created a superb collection of sculpture, furniture and works of art during his long career. Such is the prestige of the pieces that in 1993, when Givenchy instructed Christie’s in Monaco to sell some of the collection, buyers from across the globe battled to acquire them, ensuring that the sale achieved a world record for a single owner auction at that time. Some 300 years ago another Frenchman, François Girardon (1628-1715), was distinguished for his particular form of creativity, which resulted in him being appointed sculptor to Louis XIV. Girardon too, developed a renowned personal collection of fine art which comprised more than 800 items that included some of his own sculptures. In 1709, he commissioned René Charpentier to make drawings of some of the most important items
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The MAYFAIR Magazine | Art
in the collection, then Nicolas Chevallier and Franz Ertinger engraved them into a series of plates which portrayed them in a classical architectural setting. Those beautiful engravings show la Galerie de Girardon and were much admired by Givenchy; they have become a valuable record of both Girardon’s own oeuvre as well as the collecting taste of one of the most important figures within the arts during the reign of Louis XIV. Fast forward to the present and Givenchy, now 85-years old, decides to create a public display of some of his collection from his private mansion in Paris. As it will include some of his antique statuary, what better time to do so than at the city’s unfolding of the Biennale des Antiquaires? His ambition is that the pieces will be exhibited – and sold to the right buyer – in a space that mirrors la Galerie de Girardon so Christie’s expresses delight that Givenchy has approached them to organise it all, ‘I have always been inspired by Hubert de Givenchy’s taste and eye,’ says Charles Cator, Deputy Chairman of Christie’s International, ‘So when he explained to me his vision for evoking Girardon’s celebrated Gallery, I thought it was a brilliant idea which Christie’s would be immensely proud to work on with him.’ Among the works of art will be 10 bronze sculptures, various marble busts and gilt-bronze and marble vases. A number of bronzes from the Givenchy collection are shown in the engravings, such as those representing the Nile and the Tiber, as well as an important bronze figure of Bacchus which is attributed to Girardon himself. Givenchy is thrilled to be using his creativity to present them to the public, ‘I have always been inspired by la Galerie de Girardon and it is marvellous to have the opportunity to realize my dream by recreating it with Christie’s,’ he declared. If Givenchy does sell any of the pieces, the global art market will be fully aware of it, but one thing is certain: Givenchy’s legendary taste and style will make this a stunning exhibition which visitors will respond to with eyes popping, jaws dropping Charles Cator, Christie’s and voices exclaiming, ‘C’est magnifique!’ ‘La Galerie de Girardon Evocation’ by Hubert de CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: HUBERT DE GIVENCHY; ONE OF THE VASES, IN GILT BRONZE; EPOQUE LOUIS XV, 1760-1765; PLOYCHROME MARBLE BUST Givenchy, 11-26 September, Christie’s REPRESENTING CLAUDIUS AFTER THE ANTIQUE, ITALIAN, 17TH -18TH CENTURY; ONE OF THE PAIR OF FIGURES IN BRONZE REPRESENTING VENUS MARINA; ALL 9 Avenue Matignon, Paris (www.christies.com) IMAGES COURTESY OF CHRISTIE’S IMAGES LTD 2012
‘I have always been inspired by Hubert de Givenchy’s taste and eye’ –
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The MAYFAIR Magazine | Art
BONHAMS | PRIZE LOT A seed pearl, sapphire and diamond sautoir, by Cartier, 1910-1917
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t was customary for Cartier to make several items that were closely similar (but not absolutely identical) to this seed pearl, sapphire and diamond sautoir. Few have matched the same style, although a nearly identical pendant was featured in curator and author Judy Rudoe’s book, Cartier 1900-1939 in 1997 at the British Museum. Another version as noted by Rudoe, dated June 1909, was also included in the Cartier retrospective exhibitions in New York and Los Angeles. This particular sautoir was purchased by the vendor’s father from Cartier in 1950, and has remained in the family ever since. In 1997, Cartier were able to confirm that the piece was made by Cartier Paris, but that it is from different dates: the tassel pendant PARTICULARS: was made in 1910 and was originally EXPECTED VALUE (ITEM): suspended from a diamond chain, while £50,000-£70,000 the seed pearl necklace dates from 1917. The two numbers marked on the tassel EXPECTED VALUE (AUCTION): £2,500,000 do not date from the time of manufacture, as both were added by ESTIMATED RANGE: Cartier when the piece was bought back £1,200-£300,000 by Cartier and re-offered for sale. It was NO. OF LOTS: transferred from Cartier in Paris to 180+ Cartier in London in 1917 and PLACE: photographed in its current form in Bonhams, 101 New Bond Street, 1931 for Cartier’s London records. London W1S 1SR The pendant is set on each side with DATE: a central millegrain-set single-cut 19th September, 2.00pm diamond eternal knot motif, with two tassels composed of multiple rows of graduating seed pearls, connected by articulated rondelles of single-cut diamonds and calibré-cut sapphires, each with a seed pearl cap. It is suspended from a woven seed pearl rope with pavé-set rose-cut diamond cupola terminals and mounted in platinum. Signed Cartier Paris, this is a piece of history that will hold it’s beauty forever. (www.bonhams.com)
IMAGE: COURTESY OF BONHAMS
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Art | The MAYFAIR Magazine
CHRISTIE’S | PRIZE LOT La Belle Hélène
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assionate art collector and the very embodiment of Parisian elegance, Hélène Rochas, commissioned these four portraits by Andy Warhol while living in New York. The portraits are dated January-February 1974 with dimensions of 101.6cm in length by 101.6cm in width. They became a part of her famed, private art collection, housed in her Paris apartment on rue Barbet de Jouy, in the elegant 7th arrondissement where she lived for over 60 years. These iconic and one-of-a-kind portraits of Rochas show four different colour ways, including fond rose, fond bleu, fond bleu nuit and fond verte tender in acrylic silkscreen on canvas. Iconic and sophisticated, these portraits make for a timeless addition to any art collection. (www.christies.com)
PARTICULARS: EXPECTED VALUE (ITEM): ¤200,000-¤300,000 each EXPECTED VALUE (AUCTION): ¤8,000,000 ESTIMATED RANGE: ¤500-¤500,000 NO. OF LOTS: 250+ PLACE: Christie’s Paris, 9 Avenue Matignon DATE: 27 September 2012, 2.30pm
IMAGE: CHRISTIE’S IMAGES LTD. 2012
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578 KINGS ROAD LONDON SW6 2DY WWW.GUINEVERE.CO.UK
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SOTHEBY’S | PRIZE LOT Pablo Picasso, Buste de Femme de Jeune Fille, d’apres Cranach le Jeune
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ffered as part of Sotheby’s Old Master and Contemporary Print sale, this colour linocut print is a much-sought after example of Picasso’s later works. Signed and numbered (36/50), the Buste de Femme de Jeune Fille, d’apres Cranach le Jeune is a later print and subsequently more developed from his earlier simpler but bolder examples. The piece was created using an immensely complex multi-block and multi-state process. Picasso produced the linoleum cuts over a period of more than a decade from 1952-64 with this piece being produced at the height of his passion for the medium. He became interested in linoleum cuts following an encounter with the young printer Hidalgo Arnèra, this example is a result of daily collaborations with Arnèra. His mastery of the somewhat humble process produced striking images with apparent influence from both his own Surrealism and Cubism to create immersive pieces of which Buste de Femme de Jeune Fille, dapres Cranach le Jeune is one. As a revered presence in 20th-Century Western art, several of Picasso’s paintings are still among the most expensive ever sold. (www.sothebys.com)
PARTICULARS: EXPECTED VALUE (ITEM): £100,000 - £150,000 EXPECTED VALUE (AUCTION): £3,084,600 - £4,435,000 ESTIMATED RANGE: £600 - £200,000 NO. OF LOTS: 195 PLACE: Sotheby’s, New Bond Street, London, W1A 2AA DATE: 19 September, 2012, 10am
IMAGE: © SOTHEBY’S
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G N I G N A H THE C Y T U A E B F SHAPE O Tamsin Pickeral dispenses with fashion and takes a look at art’s oldest subject matter: the nude
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t’s that time of year again and London’s Fashion Week is all around us made clear by the impossibly leggy models demonstrating fashion’s latest offerings, most of which your average punter would struggle to wear. These vertiginous, beautiful waifs reflect an often rallied against, but largely accepted modern ideal of beauty. True there are clutches of ‘plus-size’ models that make the rest of us feel slightly mollified, but overall thin is in. This has not always been the case of course; throughout the centuries, ideals of beauty, reflected through depiction of the nude in paintings, sculpture and photography (from the nineteenth century) have fluctuated enormously. The ‘nude’ in art is a vast and intrinsically complex topic and is both subject matter and motif. Depictions of the nude trace back at least 25,000 years with the corpulent contours of the Willendorf Venus being one of the first such manifestations. The small, limestone statuette with its pendulous breasts was discovered near the town of Willendorf above the Danube in Austria, although the limestone itself is not local, suggesting the piece was carved elsewhere and transported there. Much has been written about the piece variously described as a religious icon, a talisman, fertility symbol, effigy or portrait. Quite simply we do not know what purpose this statuette served, but it does provide a fascinating, early nude and it is wholly plausible that this was at least partly based on an actual physical resemblance to prehistoric woman. Fast forward thousands of years to Ancient Greece and the earthy voluptuousness of theWillendorf Venus has been replaced by an entirely new body form. It was the Ancient Greeks who developed the concept of ‘ideal beauty’ between the eighth and fifth century 50
IMAGE: LA PRIMAVERA BY SANDRO BOTTICELLI
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Sporting events including the Olympiad were undertaken in the nude BCE. They strove towards a harmony of naturalism and idealisation, attained through perfect balance, proportion and equilibrium; in the process, the nude became their most elevated expression of human life. It is to them that the birth of the ‘ideal’ can be attributed: a model on which subsequent standards of beauty and aesthetics have been based and to such extent that the perception of the ideal has become a subconscious process. The Ancient Greek attitude towards the nude depiction reflects their sociological attitudes towards nudity where sporting events including the Olympiad were undertaken in the nude as well as various religious festivals and communal bathing. The human body was revered and their Gods were depicted in idealised human form. The male nude in art was perfected first by the Greeks as strapping athletes; female depictions followed as graceful and demure. The nude in art all but disappeared during the rise of Christianity from CE 313 when the naked human body was vilified and seen as representing shame and ‘original sin’. As nude images crept back into the arts, the body was suddenly depicted as contorted, shameful, damned and pained. It would not be until the Renaissance, that glorious age, when the nude would again prevail seen so brilliantly in the breath-taking, elongated Goddess in Sandro Botticelli’s Birth of Venus c. 1485 or the sensuous nudes of Raphael or Titian, such as his Venus of Urbino, 1538. In Northern Europe during the 52
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as well as various religious festivals and communal bathing same period the nude was perceived rather differently as seen in the work of Lucas Cranach the Elder, whose nudes are sinuous and slightly elfin, being an assimilation of Gothic and Mannerist influences with a recollection of antique and Italian sources. In particular his decorative treatment of the nude with details such as finely wrought jewellery, sheer wraps and delicate hair ornaments set his nudes apart. With their slender waists, long, smooth outlines and provocatively appealing expressions Cranach’s beauties are subtly erotic and it is wryly amusing that four hundred years on Cranach’s painting Venus, 1532 caused such controversy that it was temporarily banned by London Underground in the spring of 2008 from being used to advertise an exhibition of his work at the Royal Academy. The richly sensuous nudes of Rubens (1577-1640) gave the female form a voluptuous new identity, a celebration of curves, mass and sexuality, and of fecund femininity. Rembrandt’s Bathsheba at Her Bath, 1654 is another triumph of female flesh. The artist used his companion Hendrickje Stoffels as his model, and the realism of the figure, who is so beautifully and lovingly painted is quite extraordinary. A century later, the French rococo painter François Boucher used his wife as the model for The Odalisque, 1745, a sensuous and provocative work – he also made a number of nude life studies using different models that
reflect his lightness of touch and linear finesse. Beauty of a different kind appeared with the work of Jean-Auguste-Dominque Ingres seen in his series of nude figures and bathing scenes. His Valpinçon Bather, 1808 was described by Baudelaire as having a ‘deep voluptuousness’ although she has deep timelessness and stillness that renders her chaste.
‘The richly sensuous nudes of Rubens (1577-1640) gave the female form a voluptuous new identity’ Throughout the centuries the depiction and perception of the nude has changed dramatically but perhaps none more so than in the ‘modern era’, when the subject has come to represent psychological states and statements, deeper meaning and comment on the human condition, typified by the work of Francis Bacon. Or the searing realism of Lucien Freud whose nude paintings expunge idealism completely to the point where even his depiction of supermodel Kate Moss is reassuringly attainable. The nude has more than ever become a vehicle for means of expression seen to particular effect in the work of Jamil Naqsh, Pakistan’s leading figurative painter. Naqsh’s nudes are deeply moving, tactile and sensuous; they have a monumental quality and echo historic precedents such as ancient pre-Islamic carvings in central India, but with an astonishing lightness of touch and linearity. Each nude is almost icon-like, representative of love and beauty. Different again is contemporary figurative artist Chris Gollon’s approach to the nude, one that combines honesty with wry humour seen in Champagne Sheila. He manipulates his figures to their greatest extent, flattening and abstracting body parts while still retaining physical likeness, yet his nudes are also deeply poignant. The range and extent of figurative artists depicting nudes is currently far reaching and enlightening from the extreme realists to abstract artists and all in between, but most heartening is the diversity of nudes depicted. So while London Fashion Week might be awash in uniformly conforming models, the art world it seems has embraced a more eclectic shape for beauty.
FAR LEFT: PREGNANT GIRL BY LUCIAN FREUD © THE LUCIAN FREUD ARCHIVE. LEFT: ARCHED EMBRACE BY JAMIL NAQSH
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Swiss movement, English heart
Swiss made / ETA 2671-2 self winding automatic / 38 hour power reserve 36 x 25.4mm 18ct gold-plate case / 36 Top Wesselton VVS1 diamonds Crown with blue cabouchon stone / Transparent case back / Galvanic guillochĂŠ sun-ray dial / Alligator deployment strap
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Watch news Classic timepieces to covet now and enjoy for a lifetime WORDS: RICHARD BROWN
Motorbike M.A.D
INTERNATIONAL OFFERING Following Breitling- Bentley, Parmigiani Fleurier-Bugatti and Hublot- Ferrari collaborations, Blancpain and Lamborghini are proving that partnerships between the makers of watches and the purveyors of automobiles remain as popular as ever. The Swiss horological specialists joined the supercar giant in Japan to co-launch the Lamborghini LP-570 Gallardo stradale and Blancpain’s L-Evolution R 8886F. Dedicated to the world of motorsport, the timepiece was unveiled at the mystical Fuji International Speedway against a backdrop of a cloudy Mount Fuji – a suitably striking setting for the dramatic red and black timepiece. (www.blancpain.com)
So theatrical and mean looking are Chicara Nagata’s motorbikes that even a Swiss policeman admitted he wouldn’t dare pull over a driver of one. The remark was made in Geneva as the Japanese artist wheeled his creations into MB&F’s M.A.D Gallery, a space dedicated to what the watch company likes to call Mechanical Art Devices, products created to make your heart beat that little bit faster. After the 7,000 man hours Chicara put into making each of his two-wheeled sculptures, he spent another seven hours polishing each one inside the gallery. To view the sort of mind-blowing designs MB&F has become famous for, head to Geneva before February 2013; three of Chicara’s motorbikes are on display until then. M.A.D. Gallery, Rue Verdaine, Geneva
ONE TO WATCH This month, our favourite timepiece comes courtesy of Audemars Piguet
‘Savour time with the Millenary Starlit Sky collection: two watches featuring a white gold oval case, partially or entirely set with diamonds, paying tribute to the beauty of the sky’ Millenary Starlit Sky collection, from a selection Audemars Piguet (www.audemarspiguet.com)
TRACK DAY TIME Honouring Great Britain as the home of Formula 1 – its management and most of its teams are based here after all – Hublot has unveiled the F1 King Power Great Britain. Available in a limited edition of 250 pieces, the watch features a bezel adorned with multiple holes to evoke a high performance brake disc and is executed in a range of high-tech materials directly inspired by Formula 1. The watch has a 48mm case, skeleton dial and is water resistant to 100 metres. F1 King Power Great Britain, £23,000, Hublot Available at the Hublot Boutique, 31 New Bond Street and Harrods 55
T H E L U X U RY O F S PA C E A N D Annabel Harrison speaks to chairman and chief executive of DM London, David Coleridge, about Rolex One Hyde Park, the jewel in the Watch Gallery’s crown
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years... Our ambition is to make this the most enjoyable place in the world to buy a Rolex.’ Coleridge founded DM London six years ago after 20 years at luxury goods company Richemont and this two-decade period, unsurprisingly, gave him essential experience: ‘If you are starting your own business or buying a company, it is critical that it is in an industry that is very familiar – you cannot learn an industry and how to run your own company all at the same time. At Richemont you report to a chief executive; today it’s just a bank manager!’ This familiarity, as well as ‘the most prominent position on one of the busiest junctions in London’, has surely played a huge part in the boutique achieving year three expectations in year one, a quite astounding statistic. The interior design style is exactly what you would expect from Rolex. The colour palette is clean and neutral, apart from the signature green splashes, and no expense has been spared, with materials used including multi-layered Italian aqua glass, Crema Marfil Spanish marble flooring and Rolex Jubilee pattern embossed leather walls. Browsing is, of course, welcome but I’d say that this boutique comes into its own if you’re a VIP client or existing customer. VIPs can be whisked away from prying eyes into a private suite (in case you might wish to make a substantial purchase) and the on-site expert watchmaker can advise on all technical aspects of the brand; feel free to ask how deep you could dive in Yacht Master or the manufacturing David Coleridge, The Watch Gallery your process behind your Datejust. Take your Rolex in, also, for any normal servicing and repair requirements which Rolex Daytona, commented that can be done on site in a Rolex purpose-designed ‘London, and specifically workshop – a reassuring fact when sometimes it Knightsbridge, has been at the can take weeks or months to retrieve your watch forefront of luxury shopping for from its MOT or battery replacement. The specialised equipment includes a watchmaker’s bench built by Rolex in Switzerland and Rolex-designed polishing equipment along with machines to test water resistance on the famous Rolex Oyster and Submariner models. Whether you’re a Rolex connoisseur or rather more of a beginner, welcome to Rolex’ world.
f you have spent any time at all in the vicinity of Knightsbridge in the past few years, you cannot fail to have noticed the four buildings that now comprise Nick and Christian Candy’s One Hyde Park development slowly but surely rising heavenwards. Completed last January, and designed by Rogers, Stirk, Harbour and Partners, the gleaming buildings house lavish apartments with luxurious interiors and the latest in mod-cons and must-haves. Bring your gaze to ground level, though, and you’ll notice a glass-fronted, cream emporium with immaculate wooden panelling and touches of a familiar signature dark green. This is not just a Rolex boutique; it’s the largest in Europe (at 3,000 square feet) with, as you’d expect, the largest selection of Rolex watches in Europe. It is owned and operated by The Watch Gallery, housed under the DM London umbrella, which also includes the Selfridges Wonder Room and a Watch Gallery on the Fulham Road in its portfolio. Chairman of The Watch Gallery, David Coleridge, who sports a steel
‘Our ambition is to make this the most enjoyable place in the world to buy a Rolex’ –
top five Adrian Maronneau, head of buying, chooses his top five Rolex models
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18-carat Rose Gold Daytona on bracelet: £25,100
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Yacht Master II Yacht Master II Stainless Steel in stainless and Rose Gold: steel and Rose £16,770 Gold: £16,770
Lady Datejust 18-carat White and Yellow Gold: £12,400
4 5 Datejust II Stainless Steel: £4,800
Skydweller 18-carat Rose Gold on strap: £26,290 (new at BASELWORLD 2012)
Rolex by The Watch Gallery One Hyde Park 100 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LJ (020 7292 0345; www. thewatchgallery.co.uk/rolex) 57
We prefer not to be measured by dimensions. Unless it’s a new dimension of accuracy.
No fewer than four exceptional mechanisms enhance the precision of the RICHARD LANGE TOURBILLON “Pour le Mérite”: the tiny fusée-and-chain transmission, the delicate tourbillon, the ultra-thin Lange balance spring, and – not least – the patented stop-seconds device for the tourbillon which makes it possible to
set the watch with one-second accuracy in the first place. Never before has an A. Lange & Söhne watch been endowed with so many complications that simultaneously enhance its rate accuracy, settability, and readability. And so, this remarkable timepiece truly deserves the honorary attribute “Pour le Mérite”.
Arije 165, Sloane Street London • George Pragnell 5 and 6, Wood Street, Stratford-upon-Avon Hamilton & Inches 87, George Street, Edinburgh • Harrods 87–135 Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, London Watches of Switzerland 16, New Bond Street, London • Wempe 43-44, New Bond Street, London Lange Uhren GmbH • Tel. +34 91 454 89 82 • www.lange-soehne.com
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HOROLOGY When fashion brands cross into the world of luxury accessories, the results can be astonishingly eye-catching
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#1 Tambour Minute Repeater, €250,000 to order, Louis Vuitton (www.louisvuitton.co.uk) #2 RT SE Constellation Oval cufflinks, £105, Tateossian (www.tateossian.co.uk) #3 Intrecciato Woven Briefcase, £1,905, Bottega Veneta (www.bottegaveneta.com) #4 Black Rhodium Tarsier Necklace, £300, Violet Darkling, Wolf & Badger (www.wolfandbadger.com) #5 RT Real Dice Key Ring, £95, Tateossian, as before #6 Histoire de Tourbillon 2, from a selection, Harry Winston (www.harrywinston.com) #7 Stainless Steel Black Ion Plating ring, €99, Emporio Armani (www.armani.com) #8 Conquistador Grand Prix Centre Seconds, POA, Franck Muller (www.franckmuller.com) #9 Matte Black Rhodium Fossa Ring, £350, Violet Darkling, as before #10 Enamelled Metal Fly Cufflinks, £75, Paul Smith (www.paulsmith.co.uk) #11 Hematite Crystal Tie Pin, £75, Lanvin (www.mrporter.com) 59
odyssey
T H E CA RT I E R
Annabel Harrison steps back in time to unravel the glittering, romance-infused history of French jewellery house Cartier, speaking to François Le Troquer, Managing Director, and Arnaud Bamberger, Executive Chairman UK, about the brand’s 165 years
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he street is silent. It is night-time and light floods only from wrought-iron street lamps, illuminating the facade of a Parisian shop front, which is inscribed with seven golden letters: Cartier. The shop window displays a bejewelled panther in a miniature atrium, dwarfed by colossal cream pillars. Beams of light filter through the roof aperture, shattering the panther’s coat into a sparkling stream of diamonds and animating the beautiful beast. Accompanied by evocative music, the creature roams through an epic fantasyland, leaping from Paris to Russia via India and China, as French commercial director Bruno Aveillan navigates 165 years of Cartier’s history. To me, these are three and a half minutes of mesmerising escapism and it seems the rest of the world agrees; published on 2 March this 60
year, the film has had more than 15 and a half million views worldwide, an astounding number. Indeed, the jewellery house may be French in origin but its customers and reputation are international. François Le Troquer, Cartier’s managing director, has worked on five continents and confirms that Cartier has always been inspired by international expansion and different cultures, as shown in the film: L’Odyssée de Cartier, where the iconic panther traverses different countries that have
RIGHT: PANTHÈRE BROOCH IN ONYX AND DIAMONDS, 1980 © HARRIET HUBBARD AYER /CARTIER. ABOVE: LILY STOMACHER BROOCH, CARTIER PARIS, SPECIAL ORDER, 1906. NICK WELSH COLLECTION AT CARTIER © CARTIER
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ABOVE: PASHA WATCH, KATEL RIOU © CARTIER; RIGHT: JEAN COCTEAU'S ACADEMICIAN SWORD, CARTIER PARIS 1955, NICK WELSH, CARTIER COLLECTION © CARTIER; OPPOSITE: FILM STILLS COURTESY OF CARTIER
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inspired the Maison, illustrates this perfectly. At the moment we have fast growth in China, Russia, the Middle East but the UK is still one of the leading markets in the world, because London is very international.’ In fact, London began to play its part in Cartier’s history at the start of the 20th century. In 1847, LouisFrançois Cartier had taken over the jewellery workshop of his apprenticeship master Adolphe Picard at 29 Rue Montorgueil in Paris, and just nine years later, Princess Mathilde, niece of Napoleon I and cousin to Emperor Napoleon III, had made her first purchase from Cartier. In 1902, Pierre Cartier, Alfred’s second son, opened a branch at 4 New Burlington Street, coinciding with the coronation of King Edward VII; two years later, Cartier received its first royal warrant as official purveyor to King Edward VII of England. A second London boutique opened at 175-176 New Bond Street in 1909. International, and glamorous, royals have also played a significant part in Cartier’s history, forging an enduring relationship that holds fast to this day. For her marriage to Prince Rainier in 1956, Princess Grace received many gifts by Cartier including her engagement ring, set with an emerald-cut diamond of 12 carats. One of many superlatives bestowed upon Cartier’s early products, the smallest wristwatch in the world was given to Princess Elizabeth of England in 1938 and a decade later, the Duke of Windsor ordered a platinum panther brooch, a golden cat with black enamel spots crouching on an emerald cabochon, encouraging Cartier to develop a three-dimensional panther motif for the first time. The elegant Duchess of Windsor made the big cat a highly fashionable emblem, as did Barbara Hutton, the world’s richest heiress in 1957, whose first piece was a fully jointed tiger brooch-clip, followed by drop earrings and a bracelet. Grand, whimsical and fascinating pieces for grand, whimsical and fascinating clients, the panther’s journey is also fascinating (surely why so much time and money must have been spent on the Cartier Odyssey). Jeanne Toussaint joined the company in 1918 and nurtured a passion for what Cartier deems ‘the aesthetic universe of the panther’, in conjunction with the designer Peter Lemarchand, who had spent many hours sketching at a zoo in Vincennes and thus his powers of observation and his partnership with Toussaint, together with the talent of the Cartier gem-setters, resulted in the
panther becoming one of the great legends of Cartier creativity. Watches, jewellery and a perfume have all joined the feline product menagerie over the decades and for several of these decades, one Arnaud Bamberger has been at the helm as Executive Chairman UK. ‘I noticed a company in Paris called Le Must de Cartier run by Alain Dominique Perrin and I loved the way he was communicating in all the press about the company and its products. I wanted to work with this person and I took a chance; that’s how I started.’ The panther must surely be considered the epitome of luxurious emblems, then, given
‘International, and glamorous, royals have also played a significant part in Cartier’s history’ Bamberger’s stance on fashion and luxury: ‘Fashion is more ephemeral and accessible; luxury on the other hand is timeless. Fashion changes with the season, luxury is longstanding and one could even say beyond fashion. Fashion has energy, luxury has weight. Fashion is for everybody; luxury is for the few.’ However, despite this exclusivity, Le Troquer adds that ‘the luxury market has spread into different sectors of society and different sectors of the globe. It now has a much bigger market, much more freely available through exposure to modern media. There is a constant back and forth between exclusivity and being accessible to new customers as well as between tradition and modernity.’ A media channel which has continued to influence the public impression of Cartier is film; in the decades prior to the Odyssey film, the iconic red box had repeatedly appeared on the silver screen as the world’s most beautiful and stylish women appeared wearing, and being given, Cartier. Its jewellery appeared on the Broadway stage in Anita Loos’ play Gentlemen Prefer Blondes and Miss Marilyn Monroe sang Cartier! in the film version. In 1969, Cartier acquired an exceptional pear-shaped diamond of 69.42 carats and sold it to Richard Burton. He gave it to Elizabeth Taylor for her birthday and the famous diamond was thus renamed the Taylor-Burton. Cartier also loaned a significant part of its Art Deco style jewellery collection for The Great Gatsby, directed by Jack Clayton and starring Robert Redford and Mia Farrow (1974).
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So who is the Cartier customer, aside from the film stars and global style icons and Hollywood heavyweights? ‘A typical Cartier client has an appreciation and understanding for the upmost quality and innovation’, Le Troquer explains, ‘such as our great advances in fine watchmaking over the past few years or our historic involvement in the Biennale des Antiquaires this September, where we are the largest exhibitor and will showcase a stunning high jewellery collection. The Cartier customer pursues the ultimate experience alongside the best quality of jewels, watches and precious objects.’ This advance in fine watchmaking is of particular interest to me; as a little girl, I first associated Cartier with the most sparkling of diamonds and precious jewels. Knowledge about its watchmaking followed years later, when I was given my mother’s beautiful Must de Cartier watch and I discovered it was Cartier that created the Santos, the first modern wristwatch in 1904, and the iconic Tank (one of my personal favourites) in 1916. Bamberger agrees with me: ‘I own a nice collection of Cartier watches but my favourite is the Cartier Tank Normale, pre-1950s, yellow gold with a leather strap.’ Bamberger’s passion for his brand is evident, as he praises the rich history and heritage which confirms Cartier’s status as one of the leading horological innovators; ‘Right up to this day we are pushing the boundaries with our Concept watches, with ID One launched in 2009 and ID Two a few weeks ago.’ The ID One is the first adjustment-free watch in the industry and the ID2 is aptly described by Christie’s’ blog as ‘a continuation of the endless quest to harness watch mechanics to measure precise time.’ A vacuumed environment was created in a Calibre case made of a material called Ceramyst which is completely clear. The familiar ‘tradition versus innovation’ mantra is stringently adhered to; ‘Cartier will always be a leader in innovation by maintaining a commitment and continual awareness of technological development and movements in design while not losing sight of its own aesthetic and design heritage.’ Bamberger ends by answering my question about having lived and worked in New York, Paris and London. ‘I find all three cities so distinctive and unique in their own ways. Paris for me speaks romance and a stimulating interaction between heritage and innovation whereas New York is distinctive for its energy and optimism. London is an extremely international capital with many nationalities living there as well as different communities but overall the British are people I love and find extremely sensitive, funny and full of spirit. It was a long time ago one said that you don’t eat well in Britain but this is not true nowadays. In London, it is all about the quality of life.’ Quite. Now do excuse me; I’m off to Bond Street, keeping an eye out for the panther. (www.cartier.com) 63
CONTESSA To own a rare Argyle pink diamond is to own a truly magnificent heirloom. Contessa, beautifully handcrafted in Platinum and 18ct Rose Gold, features an exquisite combination of stunning craftsmanship and the rarest of Australian Argyle pink diamonds. Simply, they are the rarest diamonds in the world and are revered for their unique provenance and intrinsic beauty.
UNITED KINGDOM The Royal Arcade, Old Bond St, Mayfair London W1S 4SW AUSTRALIA Sydney Gold Coast calleija.com
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3 OF THE BEST
fashion jewellery designers
Jewellery
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Fortune’s Fool The leaders in the world of fine jewellery will come together in September at Paris’ Grand Palais for the 26th Biennale des Antiquaires antiques show, presided over by Karl Lagerfeld. Boucheron, Cartier, Chanel, Harry Winston, Piaget, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari, Chaumet, Dior and Wallace Chan, the first Asian jewellery house to be invited, will all be at the show. For its newest Palais de la Chance High Jewellery collection, Van Cleef & Arpels has, quite literally, looked to the stars for inspiration. Having always been influenced by a rich source of symbolism, the French maison has reinterpreted the animals and human figures which make up the Zodiac signs and transfigured them into its signature style – incorporating elegance, beauty and femininity. Biennale des Antiquaires, 14-23 September (www.vancleef-arpels.com)
CUTTING EDGE In line with its innovative spirit and love for mixed materials, Adler is now designing jewels with carbon fibre and, in so doing, has extended the creative limits of haute joaillerie
‘Often, a stone will inspire an idea through its shape, colour or a free association it triggers... Passion and ensitivity do the rest; an idea emerges, a sketch is etched, a drawing takes shape and finally, a jewel is born’ Necklace and bracelet in carbon, with white and yellow gold set with diamonds, from a selection (www.adler.ch)
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#1 Plume enchantée earrings, from a selection, Chanel (www.chanel.com)
#2 My Dior ring in white gold and diamonds £8,900, Dior (www.dior.com)
3 #3 Champs-Elysées ring from a selection, Louis Vuitton (www.louisvuitton.co.uk)
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Collection | The MAYFAIR Magazine
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ine Swiss watchmaker established in 1875, Audemars Piguet, has just announced a new ambassadress among its talented cast. The principal dancer at the Bolshoi Ballet in Moscow, Svetlana Zakharova, now takes centre stage as part of the Audemars Piguet legacy. Her elegance and remarkable poise as a ballerina makes her ideally placed to represent the watchmaker’s name and opulent designs. Zakharova is an award-winning dancer, whose passion for ballet – both contemporary and classic – has stayed with her since she started as a young girl at the Kiev Ballet School when she was ten. Her first major on-stage success arrived when she danced Giselle years later, and has since gone from strength to strength both internationally and in her home country. Zakharova has come to represent Russian ballet at its finest, and is celebrated for her rare ability to master many different forms of dance throughout her career. ‘We are extremely proud and honoured to have the talented Svetlana Zakharova as one of our new ambassadresses,’ says the brand. ‘She embodies high standards, rigorous discipline and excellence, three values deeply cherished by our brand. Svetlana is considered to be one of the greatest dancers of this century and her international reputation gives her opportunities to perform around the world.’
Audemars Piguet:
Amazing grace Elegance, poise and the highest of standards are behind the new partnership between Audemars Piguet and their new ambassadress Svetlana Zakharova W O R D S : K AT E R A C O V O L I S
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HAPPY DIAMONDS COLLECTION
2012/49 - Spring Magazine / Rudell - 130WR - 225 x 320 mm - UK - 23/01/12
Attention
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TOP: EARRINGS, FROM A SELECTION; LEFT: BRACELET; FROM A SELECTION, BOTH THEO FENNELL
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The The MAYFAIR MAYFAIR Magazine Magazine | Collection | Feature
Theo Fennell has long been known for his jewellery and silverware, from his infamous silver Marmite lids to strikingly beautiful bespoke pieces. As the jeweller opens a new store in Mayfair’s historic Burlington Arcade, Natalie Cox finds out what inspires him, and why a very hot bath can sometimes result in new creations
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efore Theo Fennell graduated from art school (not only York, but also the Byam Shaw, now part of prestigious Central St Martins) he entertained several career paths. In hindsight, Fennell tells me, they were ‘too many and too absurd to mention,’ though he does admit that ‘being the first man to take a hat trick in a Test Match at Lords on the day I won the Nobel Prize and my album got to number one’ was one such ambition. To the relief of his many faithful customers, though, Fennell decided to lend his hand to designing and making jewellery and silverware. For those wondering whether he regrets taking up the pencil and not the guitar or cricket bat, he declares hastily that his work has been ‘a very interesting and character forming alternative’. ‘Character’ is certainly a relevant word choice when considering Fennell’s eclectic designs, which combine opulence with intelligence, wit, and plenty of sparkle. Fennell’s latest creation is a prime example of his personal style, it is a ‘King’s Road bracelet made up as railings with a bicycle attached and the road sign, perfectly reproduced in hand-painted enamels,’ he explains. Such attention to detail and unusual design is Fennell to a tee; he describes it as ‘a piece of extraordinary craftsmanship and very unusual,’ a fitting phrase not just for the piece in question, but for all of Fennell’s work. The man himself is not one to flash too much bling and prefers to keep his personal jewellery
to a minimum. A gold bangle adorns his wrist, which is ‘meant to keep away aches and pains, but that is really an excuse for wearing it’ he admits. The bangle sits alongside the first watch he ever designed: ‘hand made in 68 pieces and impossible to make again,’ he says. Amazingly it has never gone wrong in 25 years. ‘Famous last words’ he jokes. Fennell’s fans may smile at his modesty, as all his pieces are definitely built to last. One cannot imagine tiring of one of his limited-edition pieces, such as the elegant yet luxurious White Gold Lily Phi pendant, or for the more mortality-minded, one of his eye-catching skull rings, all of which are timeless in their uniqueness, away as they are of the whims of fashion and the seasons. Befitting of a designer who is somewhat outside the carousel of the catwalk, Fennell does not name other designers when asked who he admires, stating instead that he appreciates ‘every craftsman who can turn a piece of metal and some minerals into something beautiful that will last forever’. Every craftsman has his own way of working, and unlike some jewellery designers who prefer to source the stones and build pieces around them, Fennell says that whether the stone sparks an idea, or an idea needs the perfect stone, varies from piece to piece. Considering the design process, he comments that ‘it is like words and music’. A nod, perhaps, to ambitions past. So if it is not always the minerals that inspire Fennell’s designs, where does his vision come 69
from? ‘I take inspiration from the breadth of the world and life,’ explains Fennell. ‘I am mad about so many things, from the serious to the ridiculous and from the kitsch to the classically perfect, that almost anything can give me an idea.’ He’s also keen to keep touch with the lighter side of life, evident in his quirkier pieces such as the Shakespeare portrait ring, featuring a carefully sculpted head of the bard. Fennell describes how humour and wit are vital in both life and work, ‘otherwise we would all be miserable and chic’. Although the majority of Fennell’s work may not be classed as understated and typically minimalist ‘chic’, his pieces are the antithesis of miserable. However, those not fond of statement jewellery should take a look at his eternity rings, whose thin bands are an elegant whisper of Fennell’s usual bold designs. How long does the designer take to come up with such an eclectic range of pieces? ‘It is mainly a very spontaneous act, so I can design a few pieces, sometimes, by the end of a very hot bath,’ muses Fennell. ‘At other times, where the piece needs technical planning and is more cerebral, a commission for instance, it can be a struggle for days. The design and the realisation are two very different things’ he explains. Not content to merely lend his talent to the profession, Fennell has recruited a team of highly skilled craftsmen, who in turn are training the next generation of jewellers and silversmiths. Fennell believes his art is ‘flourishing in our workshops, and our apprentices are blessed by having kind and incredibly skilled mentors.’ However, the story is not the same in the industry as a whole, he believes, adding that ‘sadly not enough of the big companies do enough to promote craftsmanship and mass produce in what are, essentially, factories.’ The new store in Burlington Arcade goes some way to promoting the exquisite skill of Fennell and his team of craftsmen. Aiming to take the customer inside Fennell’s mind during the design process, and (‘short of surgery,’ he jokes) he has settled with showing the process of the design alongside the finished articles. Fennell is also naturally excited about the recent makeover and influx of modern designers into his new home: ‘I think it was what it was built for’, he explains, ‘for quirky and
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original pieces to intrigue and delight, and who could be a better neighbour than Lulu Guinness?’ Both Fennell and Guinness epitomise modern London, their bold and unapologetically original designs at home in the eclectic style of the city. As well as being inspired by the capital, Fennell clearly relishes London life; he cites Lord’s Cricket Ground, The National Portrait Gallery, the London
‘It is the pieces that have sentiment and real beauty that go up in value, normally one-offs’ – Theo Fennell Palladium, and Hyde Park as particular favourite spots. ‘This is a wonderful melting pot of a city,’ he adds, clearly not about to up-sticks any time soon. So why is it that his ‘melting pot’ of surroundings inspired him to create jewellery rather than other forms of wearable art? ‘Jewellery per se is no different from a handbag if the originality, the passion and the craftsmanship are there’ he reasons, adding that ‘If all those come together you have something really special that can give joy for generations. That really is an investment. It is the pieces that have sentiment and real beauty that go up in value, normally one-offs.’ Sentiment and beauty abound in Fennell’s works and it is therefore not surprising that he cites his wife, Louise – a recently published author who has worked in the fashion industry – as his muse. And if he had to design a piece that represented him personally? ‘A Carpe Diem pendant in the shape of a plectrum, with an inscription in my wife and daughters’ handwriting’ he says, ever the romantic. And if you didn’t already adore Fennell and his work, we imagine that you do now.
FROM LEFT: RING, FROM A SELECTION, THEO FENNELL; THEO FENNELL’S STORE AT THE BURLINGTON ARCADE; DAVID LINLEY (LEFT) WITH THEO FENNELL AT THE BURLINGTON ARCADE; BELOW RIGHT: LIMITEDEDITION BRITANNIA JEWELLERY BOX, £3,900, DAVID LINLEY
The The MAYFAIR MAYFAIR Magazine Magazine | Collection | Feature
THE LATEST NEWS FROM THE BURLINGTON ARCADE In an exciting new addition to the Burlington Arcade, Linley has arrived for the first time, bringing his luxury gifts and accessories to the exquisite shopping space. ‘The Burlington Arcade is one of my favourite London destinations and in every way quintessentially British,’ says David Linley. ‘I have always taken such pleasure walking through it and looking at all the treasures within.’ The new store in the Burlington Arcade – Linley’s third shop in London – has lined its shelves with hand-crafted photograph frames, jewellery boxes, humidors and candles and some of the most stylish pieces for the home. Fine jewellery designer Wright & Teague have also newly arrived to the Burlington Arcade, creating each piece within the very walls of their store. Their collections are
inspired by tribal, modern and ancient societies, the vision of which also fits beautifully with that of the arcade. The Burlington Arcade also continues with the ongoing restoration to preserve it’s almost two-hundred year heritage, since it was unveiled in 1819. From floor to ceiling, each detail of the arcade is to be delicately restored to ensure its lasting beauty and aesthetic. The Burlington Arcade has kept up its name as a unique shopping destination, home to both contemporary and classic designers, where Lulu Guinness’ pop-art accessories can be found next to The Vintage Watch Company’s famously large collection of vintage Rolex timepieces. 71
The MAYFAIR Magazine | Fashion
Fall, in love This season, strong, masculine cuts combine with flirty feminine shapes for a sensual, luxurious finish S T Y L I S T: L I N H LY PHOTOGRAPHS: JAMES KNAPP
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ABOVE Wool tweed jacket, £1,910; cashmere jumpsuit, £1,720; cotton shirt, £770, goatskin ankle boots, £780, felt trilby, £39, all Hermès; Silver ‘Tusk’ ring, £115, Shaun Leane, available from Astley Clarke (www.astley.clarke.com)
LEFT Wool jacket, £690; Joseph. Silver ‘Tusk’ ring, £115, silver ‘Gypsy Moth’ ring, £185, both Shaun Leane, available from Astley Clarke (as before)
PREVIOUS Satin pleated gown with velvet tie belt £3,470, Gucci; black goatskin ankle boots £780, Hermès
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ABOVE Velvet dress, £3,080, Balmain, available at Browns (www.brownsfashion.com); goatskin ankle boots, £780, Hermès
RIGHT Leather and rayon dress, £2,340, Hervé Léger; Silver cuff, £300, Pebble 76
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ABOVE Wool coat, £775, Moschino Cheap & Chic; leather gloves, £233, Valentino; goatskin ankle boots, £780, Hermès; Silver earrings, £65, Susan Caplan
RIGHT Alpaca coat, from a selection, Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti; patent leather stilettos, £440, Manolo Blahnik
CREDITS Model: Bridget Jakes at Elite Hair: Franco Vallelonga @ Era for Patrick Lüdde Salon & Spa Mayfair using Sebastian Make-up: Laura Tucker using Bobbi Brown Stylist Assistant: Eloisa Johnson 78
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Northampton • England
Makers of the finest English shoes since 1879
U.K. 25 Royal Exchange, London EC3 New Shop - 92 Jermyn Street, London SW1 69 Jermyn Street, London SW1 20-21 Burlington Arcade, London W1 25 Colmore Row, Birmingham B3
FRANCE 14, Rue Chauveau-Lagarde, La Madeleine, 75008 Paris U.S.A. 7 West 56th Street, New York, NY 10019 www.crockettandjones.com
C&J Rex.indd 1
14/9/11 16:49:53
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Best foot forward In today’s dubious sartorial terrain of chukka boots, trainers and Havaianas, the reassuring clout that an impeccably made, beautifully constructed, classic shoe can offer is a rare thing. At J.M Weston, the historical Paris gentleman’s shoe-maker whose shoes have been adorning the feet of the elite since 1891, the focus is on artisan craftsmanship and the most butter-soft leather, made by hand in their workshops in Limoges. This season, this austere gentleman celebrates the launch of a new St James’ store, with a new ‘Eton’ collection of handsome penny loafers and a made-tomeasure riding boot service. J.M Weston, 60 Jermyn Street, SW1 (www.jmweston.com)
STYLE SPY EN DOIG WORDS: STEPH
Jet style set Suited to each other August Savile Row tailors Gieves & Hawkes have collaborated with design house David Hicks on a range of silk pocket squares and ties in the brand’s trademark vivid tones and geometric patterns. The late aristocratic designer designed carpets for Windsor Castle, the Prince of Wales and Vidal Sassoon and the new collection is as pin-sharp as his clients. (www.gievesandhawkes.com)
As London skies streak grey, escaping to foreign climes has never seemed more desirable. To cater to the migrating stealth wealth, Gucci have created Gucci Viaggio – a capsule collection for winter get-aways. In a palette of inky blues, charcoal and dove, wrinkle-free wool knits, stretched cotton pieces and easy, nylon jackets make for harmonious flying style. Duffel bag, £1,120 (www.gucci.com)
Tidy up If you’re feeling hot and bothered, book into the Spa InterContinental for one of their new ‘pit-stop’ treatments, with everything from express facials and energising eye treaments to de-stressing deep-tissue massage – the perfect antidote to summer in the city. From £90, Spa Intercontinental at the Intercontinental Hotel Park Lane, (020 7318 8691; www.spaintercontinental.com)
First port of call Ports 1961, the now-Italianowned brand has relaunched to bring their impeccable, classic and deliciously Italian pieces to Harrods this season. Double-faced cashmere, classic coats made from English mill fabrics (with fur trims) and an old school sense of refinement lend a Gatsby-style dash. (www.harrods.com) 81
Fashion | The MAYFAIR Magazine
Stills life A touch of Dutch couture has made its way into Harvey Nichols in Knightsbridge just in time for their A/W 12 collection, with the Amsterdam-based Atelier Stills opening the brand’s first UK concession. The new store borrows the same design concept from its flagship in Amsterdam (designed by contemporary architects Doepel Strijkers) with a slightly futuristic look – clothes hang from geometric wooden frames, fitting the minimalistic and diffused tones of the collection. (www.stills.eu)
STYLE UPDATE WORDS: ELLE B LAKEMAN & KA TE RACOVOLIS
Internet explorer Gucci is once again taking the lead with the world’s first luxury digital flagship store. The site provides its monthly 2.5 million visitors with rich content, shopping and social networking opportunities. Products are displayed against backdrops which reflect Gucci’s distinct design concept and users will find the site both iPad friendly and accessible on any mobile device. (www.gucci.com)
Great expectations
MAIN IMAGE: STILLS
LFW has a chic, new addition for the S/S 13 catwalks. The evercolourful and feminine collection from Preen by Thornton Bregazzi (a New York Fashion Week regular for six years) is making the journey across the Atlantic with designers Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi (pictured) at the helm. With the current collection fusing floral and whimsical prints with tailored silhouettes, we await Preen’s arrival on the London fashion scene with seriously baited breath. (www.preen.eu) 82
Smythson celebrates Smythson have had stationery lovers putting pen to paper in luxurious style for 125 years. In celebration of the milestone anniversary, the brand have designed a limited-edition envelope clutch. And it wouldn’t be an anniversary without a brand new panama notebook – Smythson have turned to their rich heritage to draw inspiration from Frank Smythson, who introduced the panama notebook in 1908, with two anniversary editions in navy and their signature nile blue. Python envelope clutch in Violet and Olive, £695, Smythson (www.smythson.com)
RUN WILDbracelet london_UK 13/04/12 09.37 Pagina 1
Buccellati White Gold Bracelet with Violet Jade Centre Stone From the Buccellati Unique Cuff Bracelet Collection
33 Albemarle Street - Mayfair, London WIS 4BP - Tel. 020 7629 5616 MILANO, VENEZIA, FIRENZE, CALA DI VOLPE, CAPRI, PARIS, MONTE CARLO, LONDON, MOSCOW, NEW YORK, CHICAGO, ASPEN, BEVERLY HILLS, TOKYO, OSAKA, HONG KONG, SIDNEY WWW.BUCCELLATI.COM
The ofthe east The fashion world has completely fallen in love with the rich shades and intricate detailing of Indian style. As celebrated photographer Ram Shergill releases his new work capturing the 25-year long career of Indian designers Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla, Kelly Green looks at their impact upon the way we dress
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or 25 years, design duo Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla have been creating luxury fashion for India’s A-list, earning them an unrivalled reputation as India’s most celebrated couturiers. Known both for their fashion creations for men and women and for interior design, their longstanding partnership has seen them creating designs for India’s leading actors and actresses, working with directors on costumes for epic Bollywood films and building a brand that exudes luxury, artistry and Indian tradition. But it is not just in their homeland that the designers have earned an elite following. Their reputation extends far beyond India, with many international celebrities choosing Jani-Khosla creations for their red-carpet appearances. Among their famous fans are Dame Maggie Smith, Sophie Marceau and Dame Judi Dench, who wore one of their richly embellished outfits at the 2012 BAFTA awards in London in February. This international success has also seen Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla collections stocked in prestigious stores worldwide, including Harrods and Harvey Nichols in London, and
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Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus in New York. Not bad going for two men who possessed no formal qualifications, nor any money to invest in their business, when they started out just a quarter of a century ago. Nevertheless, when the pair met by chance in 1986, the decision to work together was taken instantly and their first collection ‘Mata Hari’ appeared just four months later. Until that point, Mumbai-born Abu Jani had been working as a costume designer in the film industry, while Sandeep Khosla, from Kapurthala, Punjab, had started out in the family leather business. Their fateful meeting would change their destiny forever and with their raw talent and unswerving self-belief, they set out to create the finest. Finding inspiration for their first collection was easy - India would be their eternal muse. ‘We are unabashedly Indian in our aesthetics,’ says Jani. ‘And passionately in love with the rich cultural, historic and design legacy of our land. Design is our way of paying homage to that beauty. By taking it into the 21st century.’ Today, classical elegance is their signature style. The finest fabrics, impossibly fine hand-embroidery, delicate embellishments and flawless finishing are their hallmarks. They are known as the masters of revival and reinvention, reworking ancient techniques and craftsmanship such as chikankari (whitework), zardozi (gold-thread embroidery), tharad, and mirrorwork. And now that the western world is also discovering the timeless allure of Indian style, to which Jani and Khosla have remained so faithful. Vibrant colours and heavy embellishments have already made the transition from east to west, and show no sign of disappearing from the runways of fashion’s major hubs. Indeed, international designers are clearly enthralled by the vivid colours and culture of the South Asian nation. The technique of draping featured in many designer collections this season, including Alexander Wang, Lanvin, Diane von Furstenberg and Christian Dior, reminiscent of the way that the traditional Indian sari is draped around the female form. Indian Baroque, with its opulent decoration and layers, is another key trend for A/W 12, as displayed by Karl Lagerfeld’s pre-fall 2012 collection for Chanel, the Paris-Bombay Métiers d’Art show, which was heavily influenced by Indian fabrics and embellishments. Meanwhile, Marc Jacobs’ Ready-to-Wear offering, debuted at New York Fashion Week, prominently featured prints that were clearly inspired by the traditional Indian paisley pattern. Elsewhere, Dolce and Gabbana’s main line show in Milan included gold embroidery that recalled the gilding seen
‘We are passionately in love with the rich cultural, historic and design legacy of our land’ – Abu Jani
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on Indian saris, while at Milan’s men’s fashion week, Frankie Morello showed influences from India and Hinduism including bright colours, beading and male models sporting bindis. And as India’s grip on Western fashion takes hold for autumn/winter 12, the country’s own Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla will be celebrating 25 years as one of the international fashion community’s biggest names. ‘Abu and I thought long and hard about how we wanted to celebrate our milestone,’ says Khosla, ‘and also about how we would use this celebration to set the vision for our creativity and ourselves in the next twenty-five. It soon became clear that a book, or rather two as it turned out to be, were the ideal vehicle.’ India Fantastique is a lush insight into the world of Jani and Khosla – a world that unites India’s ancient cultural heritage with original contemporary design. The two volume publication showcases the designer duo’s exuberant fashion and interiors, with the first volume featuring dozens of the duo’s impossibly elegant designs, including detailed close-ups. The second volume focuses on their extensive work in interior design, presenting fifteen interiors ranging from the designers’ own homes in Mumbai and the Himalayas, to a monumental private house in New Delhi, a gloriously over-the-top apartment in London and a flamboyant wedding venue in Hyderabad. ‘It’s never about the furniture alone,’ says Khosla. ‘We want to create a home. So every single thing counts. The art, the carpets, Sandeep Khosla the silver, even the ashtrays.’ Paramount in both books is Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla’s rediscovery and revivification of once moribund traditional crafts, and the ways in which they make use of local artisans and reinvent their heritage by redeploying Indian antiques, artefacts and vintage textiles. Sure to become a collectible, India Fantastique is written by acclaimed Indian art critic Gayatri Sinha. It features over 600 pages of specially commissioned and styled photography by fashion photographer Ram Shergill and interiors photographer Deidi Von Schaewen, set against a backdrop of awe-inspiring locations. Both books feature prefaces and appearances by luminaries of Bollywood, Hollywood and Indian high society, while Sinha’s explanatory text looks into the background of Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla’s success in both fashion and interiors, complemented by numerous photographs from the duo’s private albums. Looking back over their 25 years in design, it is clear that Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla have achieved many a dream. But with the Indian aesthetic currently influencing high fashion the world over, it seems fair to predict that the dream is far from over.
‘Abu and I thought long and hard about how we wanted to celebrate our milestone’ –
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ABOVE: INDIA FANTASTIQUE, FASHION (VOLUME I); INTERIORS (VOLUME II), £95, PUBLISHED BY THAMES & HUDSON (3 SEPTEMBER 2012)
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Advertising FeAture
Best of British
L U X U R Y SHOPPING
Tessier Michael Rose
T
he Burlington Arcade has been a true luxury landmark in London since 1819. Housing over 40 specialist stores, shoppers will find vintage watches, rare gemstones and the finest leather and cashmere accessories. Located discreetly between Bond Street and Piccadilly, the arcade has long been favoured by royalty, celebrities and the cream of British society.
? DID YOU KNOW
Burlington Arcade houses a sparkling selection of antique, vintage and historic jewellery at stores including Susannah Lovis, Tessier, Johnson Walker, Matthew Foster, and Michael Rose. The exquisite pieces at Hancocks are sourced from some of the world’s finest collections, including Elizabeth Taylor’s jewels and a pair of unique JAR earrings from the estate of fashion doyenne Dodie Rosekrans.
Richard Ogden
Richard Ogden’s dedicated ‘Ring Room’ was the first of its kind in London, displaying a vast range of bespoke and vintage engagement rings and wedding bands, as well as fabulous tiaras – including pieces used in the BBC’s Downton Abbey.
CELEBRITY STYLE TRENDS
Whilst round brilliant cut diamonds are still the most popular engagement rings (possibly owing to the fact that they emit more sparkle than any other cut), there are two styles that have emerged as leading trends: The ‘Halo’ design which originated in the 1920’s is the one of the most favoured styles as seen on celebrities, including Natalie Portman, Jessica Alba and Gwyneth Paltrow. The unbroken circle Hirsh symbolizes the unity of the happy couple. The main stone need not be a diamond – the Duchess of Cambridge’s engagement ring is a modified halo with a sapphire taking centre stage. The Emerald cut seems to be this year’s biggest trend, which was also popular with style icons such as Grace Kelly and Jackie Onassis and more recently Beyoncé. Both Angelina Jolie and the recently engaged Jennifer Aniston are sporting emerald cut rings.
&
AGE E BEAUTY
Johnson Walker
JAR at Hancocks
G L I T T E R I N G If you are looking for unique and stylish jewellery, look no further, with designers such as Theo Fennell, showcasing his dramatic pieces, and Wright & Teague who make their jewellery in the store, displaying their skill and craftsmanship alongside their gorgeous finished products. Nourbel & Le Cavelier, Milleperle and Ciro add their beautiful and bespoke jewellery to the dazzling array on offer.
success Nourbel & Le Cavelier
DIAMONDS ARE FOREVER
Heming
Hirsh
Richard Ogden
Theo Fennell
Wright & Teague
For more information visit www.burlington-arcade.co.uk
C H LO É .
Attitudes
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The The MAYFAIR MAYFAIR Magazine Magazine | Feature | Art
Chloé, the ever-graceful Parisian fashion Maison responsible for some of the most sought-after collections in decades past is holding its first exhibition to mark its 60-year contribution to the culture of fashion W O R D S : K AT E R A C O V O L I S
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IMAGE: GUY BOURDIN, FRENCH VOGUE, FEBRUARY 1979 © THE ESTATE OF GUY BOURDIN, REPRODUCED BY PERMISSION OF ART + COMMERCE
hloé will always have a special place in our hearts. 2012 sees the iconic, feminine brand celebrate a staggering 60 years, which will be marked with a stunning retrospective exhibition – in Paris, naturally. The exhibition is not merely a chronological retrospective of the history of Chloé, nor is it intended to be a purely nostalgic experience; rather, it rediscovers both iconic looks and hidden gems from collections from 1952 to present. Seventy pieces, curated from the newly formed archives of the house, since creative director Clare Waight Keller’s arrival, are waiting to enthrall fashion lovers. The exhibition will take you on a thematic journey, through the most enduring looks based on founder Gaby Aghion’s original vision. Back in 1952, Aghion went against the grain of haute couture, creating a more casual – yet still elegant -– style through luxury Prêt-à-Porter pieces, giving women a new sense of freedom in their dress. Expectations of neutral-toned Chloé will be dashed, as the exhibit will show the soft, chiffon daywear from the 1970s next to the brilliant hues and graphic prints of the 1960s. The Palais de Tokyo in Paris will house the exhibit as part of a larger collection that celebrates the history of fashion at the contemporary art gallery. Visitors can immerse themselves in ideas from the designers of the fashion house under Aghion’s mentorship: including Gérard Pipart, Maxime de la Falaise, Karl Lagerfeld, Martine Sitbon, Stella McCartney, Phoebe Philo, Hannah McGibbon and Clare Waight Keller. Chloé. Attitudes illustrates the intersection between fashion and art with drawings and photographs dating from 1958-85 by the legendary Helmut Newton, Guy Boudin, Jeanloup Sieff, David Bailey and Deborah Turbeville featuring at the exhibition. In honour of Chloé’s 60th anniversary, some of the most coveted designs are being re-issued in 60 pieces. Among them: Karl Lagerfeld’s Violin dress from S/S 83, Stella McCartney’s pineapple T-Shirt from S/S 01 and Phoebe Philo’s Paddington Bag – form a queue ladies. ‘Chloé. Attitudes’ runs from 29 September – 18 November at Le Palais de Tokyo, Paris 93
Here come the
cavalry This year, The Mayfair Magazine has teamed up with Fashion for the Brave to help the charity in their fundraising event to raise money for the Household Cavalry Operational Casualties Fund and the British. Forces Foundation. Stephen Doig looks at the philanthropic side of the world’s most glamorous industry
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FROM LEFT: THE DORCHESTER HOTEL; FASHION FOR THE BRAVE © ED LANE FOX
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T
he fashion world has never been particularly known for its sense of altruism, more concerned as it can be with high heels rather than high morals, but in this post-recession world, priorities are shifting. The success of the Fashion Rocks, the Prince’s Trust event that combines haute couture with performances from the biggest names in music, and Fashion for Relief, alongside the continued charitable endeavours of Anna Wintour at American Vogue (she gallantly used the magazine to raise money to fight AIDS and HIV as it ravaged New York in the 80s), have shown how the fashion community can use its particular tools – glamour, global media attention – to attract attention and, more importantly, raise funds for causes. This September, the Dorchester Hotel gets set to herald the second Fashion For The Brave event, with style leaders joining force to raise a glass, along with some considerable donations, to a very British, worthy charity. ‘Fashion For The Brave enables me to use my expertise – fashion – to benefit a very worthy cause, to raise funds for the Household Cavalry Operational Casualties Fund,’ says one of the patrons of the event, designer Jasper Conran. The charity provides financial support to
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‘Fashion For The Brave enables me to use my expertise – fashion – to benefit a very worthy cause’ – Jasper Conran soldiers injured in service, and for the families of those who have lost their lives fighting for their country. Conran joins a crack team of fashion professionals and stars who are patrons of Fashion For The Brave, sitting alongside Harold Tillman, the Chairman of the British Fashion Council, actress Sienna Miller and musician James Blunt. ‘I’m hugely patriotic and I’m a huge supporter of the Household Cavalry,’ says Conran of his involvement in the venture, which will take place as a catwalk presentation and auction. Designers taking part this year in the Best of British themed catwalk show include Marchesa, Hackett, Burberry, Giles Deacon, Temperley, Beulah, Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen and Jenny Packham – all British brands that veer from the traditional to the resolutely high octane and avant garde – Corrie Nielsen’s Union Jack dress being one of the stars of the night. ‘The Union Jack is such an iconic design with such a strong identity and
The MAYFAIR Magazine | Feature
TOP: JASPER CONRAN, ONE OF THE CHARITY’S PATRONS; BOODLES ROULETTE WG PENDANT, ONE OF THE AUCTION PRIZES
there are so many wonderful designers who have referenced it successfully. What I love is that it works from couture to popular culture.’ Indeed, this celebration of a particularly British institution and the work they do couldn’t have come at a sweeter time. The potency and poignancy of the Union Jack emblem won’t be lost on the onlookers at the event; 2012 is a stellar year for the UK, given the global attention on our fair isle thanks to the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee and the small matter of hosting the Olympic Games. Certainly, red, white and blue is a palette on the fashion agenda. ‘The Jubilee has been so marvelous, I love the pomp and circumstance. The British do it so well,’ says Conran. ‘The Olympics were such a resounding success, full of great British joy and spirit, creativity and eccentricity.’ The year may belong to Her Majesty and the Olympiads, but in a small way Fashion For The Brave will shine a light on the quiet heroes who form such an essential part of the UK’s history and heritage. Bringing on board the iconic Dorchester Hotel, along with luxury jeweller Boodles, and Vestra Wealth, the night will feature model Jade Parfitt donning a custom-made dress by Fashion Fringe winner Corrie Nielsen. ‘The Fashion For the Brave Union Jack dress is inspired by Britain’s longstanding military history and even incorporates a handmade flag,’ says Nielsen. ‘Pulling elements from my autumn/winter 2012 collection, the dress also looks to this year’s Diamond Jubilee. It features sculptural forms and excess use of fabric – both signatures of mine. The billowing skirts, structured panniers and boned corset have Corrie Nielsen
written all over them,’ says the designer, who was chosen by revered fashion journalist Hilary Alexander, another patron of the charity. The launch of Fashion for the Brave shot earlier this year, is a rollick through Hyde Park, featuring Jade Parfitt in the gown alongside fellow models Jasmine Guinness and Lyza Onskyo, and members of the Household Cavalry. ‘The event will feature absolutely the best of British fashion – from heritage brands to our most contemporary young designers, says Caroline Rush, chairwoman of the British Fashion Council, which supports the event. ‘It’s a way of celebrating, supporting and thanking our soliders for their bravery and dedication’. But as the flashbulbs pop, the Red Carpet is trodden and champagne glasses clink, Conran is eager to reinforce the reason for hosting the event in the first place. ‘Behind the glitz and glamour, there’s a reminder that we are there for such a fantastic and thoroughly deserving cause. ‘It’s fun, but it’ also profoundly moving.’ (www.fashionfor thebrave.com)
OPPOSITE PAGE: JADE PARFITT, WEARING A BESPOKE CORRIE NEILSEN DRESS AND BOODLES JEWELLERY, ON ‘GEORGE’ THE HORSE WITH CORPORAL TATE. BELOW: LOOKS FROM CORRIE NIELSEN’S A/W 12 COLLECTION
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Inside out How important is good underwear to fashion? Elle Blakeman meets some of the biggest names in lingerie to find out
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The MAYFAIR Magazine | Feature
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ife is all about foundations: careers, buildings, multinational banks – get the base right and everything else will magically fall into place. Or not. Fashion is no exception and great underpinnings can be the difference between looking good and looking amazing – just ask any Victoria Secret model (if you can bear to stand next to them). ‘A good bra can make an M&S dress look like Chanel,’ says Nicky Clayton, creative director of Rigby & Peller. So where to start? Clayton recommends that you get fitted for a bra every six months. ‘If possible, it’s great to get fitted every six months as women’s bodies change so much due to so many reasons. It doesn’t necessarily mean you need to get new underwear every six months, but it’s good to make sure your bra is still doing its job,’ she says. An incredible 80 per cent of women who walk through Rigby & Peller’s heavy brass doors for the first time are wearing the wrong size bra; unhelpful for anyone looking to rock a figurehugging DVF wrap or attention-grabbing Léger. ‘The biggest mistake women make is wearing a bra too small in the cup and big in the back. When a woman’s bust gets bigger she thinks she’s getting wider in the back. She’s not. It’s her cup size that’s increasing,’ says Clayton. With the sheer volume of brands and styles out there, it can be hard for women (let alone men) to know what to buy. ‘It all depends on your physique, says Clayton. ‘If you’re petite I would always go with a half cup, because it can be an awful lot of bra otherwise, similarly if you have a long torso, you will probably find a full cup fits better; it’s all about finding a bra that is comfortable.’ ‘The best thing to do it to go into an independent boutique where they have a selection of different brands; this makes a big difference as different brands come up in different size, for example a lot of the German brands come up large in the back, but the French ones tend to be fuller in the cup. And Italian brands are just tiny! You need to find a bra where the straps and wiring fits properly,’ she says. ‘It amazes me when women come in with red raw marks where there straps are, I just think “You must be so uncomfortable!”’. ‘About 80 per cent of the support comes from the back – so your bra needs to be firm fitting
‘A good bra can make an M&S dress look like Chanel’ – Nicky Clayton, Rigby & Peller around your rib cage – with a further ten per cent coming from your straps. You need to try on different styles and shapes to see what works best,’ says Clayton. Anyone who has seen any kind of make-over programme over the past ten years has seen women shoehorned into industrial-strength shapewear that looks like it might actually cause internal issues if left on for too long. Clayton insists that the latest crop is much less torturous. ‘Again it’s all about finding the right one’ she says. ‘There have been so many technical developments over the last few years. Miraclesuit for example make exquisite shapes – they have sheer tulle mesh with control shaping satin panels – but only where you need them; so now rather than squeezing you all in, it’s about ‘zone control’ – just looking after the bits you need help with,’ she says. ‘And Spanx have also developed some really clever technology with their shape wear dresses, which are great for avoiding VPL,’ Janie Bryant, costume designer for Mad Men and wardrobe advisor to Maidenform is another shapewear enthusiast. ‘I always believe in showing off your curves rather than trying to hide them,’ she says. ‘Shapewear, especially waist nippers and thigh slimmers can smooth and contour the body, creating a gorgeous and feminine hourglass shape. In the fashion era of the waif (think: Kate Moss in her grunge period), good underwear was irrelevant; a collateral casualty of a time when the only numbers over 32 were European shoe sizes. Recently, however, things have changed, in part, thanks to two reasons, both belonging to Christina Hendricks. Anyone who has seen
FULL SLIP WITH GARTERS AROUND £130, MAIDENFORM CAPSULE COLLECTION (WWW.MAIDENFORM.CO.UK)
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ABOVE: BLACK LACE BODY, £98, LA PERLA AT FOX & ROSE (WWW.FOXANDROSE.COM)
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the ample assets of Mad Men’s Joan Holloway entering a room 20 seconds before the scarlet-haired women herself wanted to know get those curves. From cleavage that could stop traffic to seductive, womanly hips, the Fifties (which in fashion didn’t really happen until the Sixties) were back and the crowd went mad for the hourglass. ‘I think it is weird that the hourglass was ever out of fashion,’ says Bryant. ‘It is an iconic form of femininity.’ She is unsurprised by the impact of the show on the fashion world. ‘I think it’s because the period is so accessible, it’s still modern and still quite relevant,’ she says. ‘Vintage is still a really strong trend,’ agrees Clayton. ‘There is still that ‘Kate Middleton effect’, with embroidery and lace being a key trend for A/W 12, although we are now seeing a bit of a different take on the trend as things get much bolder: lace is getting a lot more daring in vibrant shades and there are also a lot of vintage-inspired structured corsets around that are almost verging on dominatrix, with strong graphic detailing and dramatic lines,’ she says. So we’ve gone from Princess Catherine to Fifty Shades in just two seasons. ‘I think it’s an organic move on from the Body Con Ready-to-Wear trend,’ says Clayton. ‘Women are feeling quite feminine at the moment; they are craving that quite retrospective hourglass silhouette. Vintage itself feels safe as it’s obviously somewhere we have been before, which is what people look for in uncertain times,’ she says. One brand that has attempted to cater for both sides of a women’s personality is new online boutique Fox & Rose (Rose being for when you are feeling demure, and Fox when you are less so…). Alexandra Miro, the brands’ co-founder feels that on the whole, we are getting better at buying underwear: ‘Up until recently, many people might have perceived lingerie as less important than the clothes they
wear, but this is all changing, and people are investing more into good-quality underwear,’. She advises women to go a bit crazy with underwear and always buy something that makes them feel confident. ‘If you love colour for example, but are scared to wear neons or brights in your outerwear then lingerie is fabulous to experiment with. If you generally wear quite sombre colours for work, knowing that you have a hot-pink lingerie set under your
‘Even if you know what she wears, she might want something totally new and exciting’ – Nicky Clayton, Rigby & Peller work clothes is a great spirit-lifter,’ she says. This season, the colour palette for underwear has really livened up, with rich vermillion reds and several shades of blue – teals through to turquoise – lighting up lingerie stores once filled with classic monochrome. When it comes to giving lingerie, Clayton recommends men buy their partners gift vouchers rather than underwear. ‘It’s nicer to give the experience’ she says. ‘It’s so hard for men to get it right, as even if you know what she wears, she might want something totally new and exciting,’. However, Clayton admits that it is a truly great gift if everything goes well. ‘It’s the best present ever if a man gets it right, as nice underwear is such a beautiful thing to receive and it shows how well someone knows you.’ Clayton recommends having a quick look in her underwear drawer (‘If this is appropriate!’ she adds hastily), and looking at the colour palette, style she likes to wear, and the size. ‘But underwear should always be about women feeling good first and foremost,’ say Clayton, ‘if you get that right, everything else will fall into place.’ Even M&S.
RIGHT: THE MAKING OF MAIDENFORM; BELOW: A LOOK FROM THE RIGBY & PELLER A/W 12 CAMPAIGN
BERRY KISS BRA, £99.50; SUSPENDER, £59.50; THONG, £49.50, CREAM CHIFFON GOWN, £450, ALL FLEUR OF ENGLAND AT FOX & ROSE (WWW.FOXANDROSE.COM)
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The MAYFAIR Magazine | Interiors
Bathe in Italian style
Culinary couture
This month, bathroom designers Laufen have collaborated with Alessi to launch the ultimate in sleek, contemporary bathroom pieces. Il Bango Alessi is the ensemble created by Stefano Giovannoni, and bares the distinctive, clean aesthetic of the Alessi brand, featuring bright white ceramic pieces creating an idyllic space to prepare for the day ahead or unwind. (www.laufen.com)
For the first time in thirty years, La Cornue has created a new culinary range with a new look that breaks away from its traditional French art de vivre. Award-winning architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte, who has designed an array of galleries at the Louvre and the Orsay Museum in Paris, created the ultramodern kitchen-wear in jet black and brown with ribbed lines and visible screws. The range is almost a complete departure from La Cornue’s signature vaulted ovens, except of course, for the continuation of the powerful technical features making these ovens completely state-of-the-art – perfect for that crisp, golden tarte tatin. (www.lacornue.com)
Interiors news High fashion enters the world of interiors this month with designer collaborations and Laxcriox-clad walls W O R D S : K AT E R A C O V O L I S
FINISHING TOUCH Invigorate, the beautiful new candle from Neom is both calming and uplifting. Made from natural waxes and essential oils, with scents of grapefruit, bergamot and lime, this hand-poured candle makes a beautiful addition to the kitchen or a thoughtful hostess gift. £39.50 from Neom Organics (www. neomorganics.com)
Wall to wall For those whose fashion sense stretches beyond the wardrobe, the latest collection of Christian Lacroix for Designer’s Guild’s wallpaper should be at the very top of the list. These floral, slightly vintage-themed designs were simply made to line the walls of a walk-in-wardrobe – very Ab Fab darling. From around £65 per roll, Designers Guild (www.designersguild.com)
Well rested L&B, the family-owned design company, have been combining beautifully soft cotton with classic embroidered detailing for over a century. Their new design store, L’Atelier, based in Motcomb Street, in the heart of Belgravia, is the ideal space to find inspiration, not to mention high-quality fabrics. L’Atelier goes further in to the land of dreams with a fully bespoke service for bedlinen especially for the store, with duvet covers and pillows for a brilliant night’s rest. (www.lblondon.com) 103
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Peter Marino founded his architecture firm in 1970s New York, and has gone on to design more high fashion stores across the globe than anyone else. Natalie Cox finds out how he manages to embody brands in his work, whilst creating buildings and interiors so unique and in tune with local culture
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he experience of buying beautiful clothing is so much more than a transaction; way before your fingers alight on fabric the process begins with the store itself. It follows, then, that the store’s architect must not only be highly skilled in his own profession, but also have a deep understanding of fashion itself. They must be able to distil the very essence of the brand in question and build stores that embody the pieces within, whilst being works of art in themselves. There is only one man at the top of every designer’s list when it comes to the creation of a new retail showcase, and that is Peter Marino: the New York architect extraordinaire and avid art collector, who is unmistakable in his uniform of head-to-toe leather biker clothing. Not just an architect, but a connoisseur of fashion and the arts, whose talent has created both the timeless elegance of the Chanel store on Avenue Montaigne in Paris and his early patron Andy Warhol’s third infamous ‘Factory’ studio,plus many other fashion landmarks in between. ‘After 30 years of practice, the technical sides are not difficult,’ says Marino, pondering the balance of science with the freedom of the artist. ‘I begin with materials to define the character of a brand, then spatially design it for efficiency and excitement.’ However, he suggests, ‘it is always a challenge to be creative.’ Marino has certainly pushed the limits of creativity with his re-design of Louis Vuitton’s flagship New Bond Street ‘maison’, picture a wall of LV trunks, a private shopping area filled with works by Jeff Koons and Jean-Michel Basquiat and an opulent golden fencing that lines the blue-lit stairs. It is Vuitton entirely; all old-world extravagance, yet uniquely London in its eclectic art pieces and smart sense of humour (on opening, the dancing shoes in the window elicited a chuckle from even the most poker-faced of fashionistas). In contrast, Marino’s envisaging of Louis Vuitton’s Marina Bay Sands Singapore ‘maison’ encapsulates the brand in an entirely different way. One of the biggest Vuitton stores in the world, its breathtaking glass and steel pavilions make it a landmark of Singapore’s luxury retail scene. The two structures are reminiscent of ships’ hulls, fitting for a waterfront location and also for Vuitton’s universal acclaim as a travel trunk maker.
The MAYFAIR Magazine | Interiors
LOUIS VUITTON NEW BOND STREET MAISON IN LONDON, IMAGE: © PAUL WARCHOL
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The interiors of the Singapore store are light and airy, with open-plan sections that include Asia’s first travel room, featuring luggage and travel accessories. In the lower floor the two-level mall area, a carefully curated bookstore (which boasts an elegant glass and white MDF ceiling) is full of Parisian-style books to honour the brand’s roots, along with titles on architecture, culture and art. The flooring and shelves are predominantly wooden (teak, to be exact, stained in two colours) to keep in line with the traditional Asian aesthetic, whilst a mural next to the stairs by fashion illustrator Ruben Toledo also references the store’s location in one of Asia’s many rapidly developing countries. As in London, Marino’s art commissions play a major part in the feel of the store; Richard Deacon’s sculpture, suspended in
‘In 2000, I won a competition for an opera house in Palm Beach that never happened’ – Peter Marino
FROM LEFT: MAISON LOUIS VUITTON SHANGHAI PLAZA 66, IMAGE: STÉPHANE MURATET COURTESY OF LOUIS VUITTON; LOUIS VUITTON NEW BOND STREET MAISON IN LONDON, IMAGE: © PAUL WARCHOL; CHANEL AVENUE MONTAIGNE IN PARIS. IMAGE: MANOLO YLLERA
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the air and inspired by the undulating water nearby, is dreamlike and soft, and at 49-feet long, perfectly fitting for such an enormous space. In many ways, the two Marino-designed stores are opposites: London’s embodies the closeness of the city, how new must sit alongside old in minimal space, whereas the Marina Bay Sands store speaks of the relatively new-found riches of Singapore and an era of boundary pushing and new aesthetics. Marino admits that he deviated from his usual ‘Ultra-sophisticated, international style,’ with the Marina Bay Sands store, due to the ‘totally different climate.’ Indeed, he explains that the Singapore store was designed to be ‘very resort oriented, more casual than Paris or London. Main cities would be treated more formally.’ He adds as an afterthought: ‘Really, the stores just reflect the way people live.’ Reflecting the moods and tastes of a culture is not a straightforward task, however, and Marino has to consider all
The MAYFAIR Magazine | Interiors
Whether residential or commercial, Marino is the many features of the store when designing. both architect (when no prior building exists), ‘It’s all about lighting,’ he explains (he even designer, and art commissioner for his projects. introduced a new form of LED-embedded glass Not only does he use art commissions as part of for the Chanel Tower in Tokyo), ‘then space, his store designs to great effect, he also owns a tactility, and ease of ‘absorbing’ the product’s wide-ranging collection of art personality. Timing is important. himself. He has previously Freedom of choice: where to go, exhibited his collection of what to look at, how to circulate, 17th-Century bronzes at The is paramount.’ Wallace Collection in London, Despite being so well known for and his collection of sculpture by his fashion stores, Marino began Claude and François-Xavier as a residential designer Lalanne – the largest private (something that he still dedicates collection in the world – at the time to) and he continues to take Musée des Arts Décoratif in Paris. on a diverse range of projects Marino is also an artist himself, across different sectors. ‘In 2000, and has previously experimented I won a competition for an opera with sculpture. house in Palm Beach that never Those intrigued by Marino’s happened,’ Marino reminisces, TEXTURED GILDED BRONZE BOX (PETER MARINO). PHOTO: MAGGIE NIMKIN artworks should be sure to pencil ‘I’d love to actually complete this month’s Biennale des Antiquaires in Paris into one.’ The designer would also like to work on a their diaries – Marino will present his latest government supported low-income housing creations: seven sculptural boxes made from project, ‘to really help people get better lives.’ gilded, silvered, and blackened bronze. The sculptures will be arranged alongside a collection of paintings and sculptures by a bevy of celebrated artists of the 20th century, including Andy Warhol, Yves Klein, and Pablo Picasso. Marino might be a talented sculpture and an eagle-eyed art collector, but he retains an equally deep appreciation for the fashion designers that he works with: ‘All the creative designers for whom I work inspire me,’ he says, naming Karl Lagerfeld, Marc Jacobs, Kris Van Assche, Raf Simons, Victoire de Castellane, and Stuart Vevers in particular. ‘I attend all their shows and try to interpret and express the zeitgeist,’ he adds. ‘I am most inspired by the opportunity to give the customers a unique and beautiful experience.’ There are few who would argue that Marino has failed to entice the world’s fashion devotees with his ‘unique and beautiful’ stores. Like his old associate Andy Warhol, Marino has proven time and time again that there is beauty and elegance in the commercial, which is not at odds with art when accompanied by great vision. The 26th Biennale des Antiquaires is on from September 14 - 23 at the Grand Palais, Paris
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Is ‘off the peg’ car buying a thing of the past? Richard Yarrow looks at the growing trend for ultralimited-edition supercars
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ake a stroll down Old Brompton Road and you will see the Lamborghini London dealership. If you’ve got £246,000 burning a hole in your pocket you can drive home again in an Aventador LP 700-4. The striking two-seater coupé is the newest model from the legendary Italian supercar manufacturer. But with more than 1,000 examples sold since it was unveiled at last year’s Geneva Motor Show, and with the UK traditionally accounting for around 10 per cent of Lambo sales, a car straight out of the showroom might not have the exclusivity you’re looking for. At the other end of the scale is the Aventador
The mayfair Magazine | Motoring
e v i us Image: Lamborghini Aventador, courtesy of Lamborghini
J, which debuted at this year’s Swiss exhibition. It’s a complete one-off show car, the company’s demonstration of how a convertible version might look. After the event the J was offered for sale to one of Lamborghini’s most loyal customers, who snapped it up for €2.1m. Often a unique vehicle such as this will never turn a wheel in anger, spending its life in humiditycontrolled splendour with similar exotica. Happily, this one is getting used and was spotted parked in the Spanish resort of Marbella earlier in the summer. Lamborghini is not alone in this kind of bespoke creativity. Supercar brands have a long history of it and the reasons are obvious. They get all the motor show headlines – the Geneva crowds meant you couldn’t get near the
Aventador J for hours after it was unveiled – and the hype about it perhaps becoming a production has built slowly over the months. The downside is there is no tangible product for the global dealer network to sell to customers. Limited-edition cars are another attentiongrabbing ruse. French firm Bugatti launched the iconic Veyron back in 2005, yet there have been numerous ‘specials’. The Pur Sang (2007) was five cars with high-gloss bronze wheels, while the Sang Noir (2008) was completely black on the outside, orange inside and restricted to just 15 examples. Only four of the Villa d’Este (2009) were built and even then each was finished in a different colour. Perhaps the most famous is the Veyron Super Sport (2010), not for how many were made – it’s said to be limited to 30 – but for claiming a place
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IMAGE: MANSORY CARBONADO, COURTESY OF MANSORY
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in the record books as the fastest street-legal production car of all time, with a top speed of 267.856 mph. At least you can drive a Super Sport on the road… because there are limited-edition supercars that you can’t. The Ferrari FXX, launched in 2005, was never homologated for the public highway. Just 30 were built, each cost €1.5m plus local taxes, but that bought you membership to an ultra-exclusive, track day club. Ferrari kept your car for you and shipped it to six of the world’s most famous race circuits over a two-year period with full motorsport team back-up for your day out. The appeal was that you were helping the company’s future vehicle development programme. It worked as an initiative and its replacement, the 599XX programme, is currently ongoing. Lamborghini also has a circuit-only supercar, the Sesto Elemento, which premiered at 2010’s Paris Motor Show. It’s slated for a production run of 20 cars, due for delivery at the end of this year. It might have the exclusivity you’re looking for, but unfortunately they’re all sold. The same is true of the Aston Martin One-77. The name comes from the short production run – each example of the two-seater is ‘one of 77’ – and the final car was delivered to its owner in July this summer. Each was priced £1.44 m, eight times the price of any other production Aston Martin. No matter how much money is waved by potential clients, the company says no more will be built. But that’s not always the case with bespoke supercars. Management has a habit of calling time on a desirable model and then conveniently launching another version to provoke more media and customer interest. Take the Cinque (2009), supposedly a last hurrah for the Pagani Zonda. Unsurprisingly given the name, five were built. Then they released five of the convertible Roadster version, too. Next came the Tricolore (2010), apparently a one-off tribute to the Italian national aerobatics team but actually
‘At least you can drive a Super Sport on the road… because there are limited-edition supercars that you can’t’ three were built. Other specials ollowed and Pagani finally halted Zonda production last year. Don’t expect a different strategy on its replacement, the Huayra (pronounced Why-ra. It means ‘Father of the winds’ in the Inca language of Quechua). Driving a supercar will mark you out from the crowd anyway, but if the idea of buying ‘off the peg’ fills you with horror, there are plenty of companies who will cater to your needs. Mansory is a German engineering brand that will take a standard supercar and give it a makeover. New this summer is the Carbonado, based on Lamborghini’s Aventador and restricted to just six examples. As the name suggests, there’s extensive use of carbon fibre on the bodywork, all of which have been redesigned from their original look. The revamp includes everything from new alloys – ultralight forged 20 or 21-inch rims with carbon fibre inlays – to a whole new high-grade interior. It’s not just a styling exercise, though. Reworked engine management software and a high performance exhaust system means more power and faster acceleration. The standard 6.5-litre V12 engine is upgraded from 700 to 754bhp, resulting in a top speed of 221mph and a 0-60mph sprint of 2.8 seconds. With no hint of irony, the marketing material labels the car… ‘the most exclusive carbon compound found on the roads, the “Black Diamond” of the streets’. It’s £620,000 and one has already been sold, but there are issues with this kind of aftermarket conversion. The Lamborghini warranty will be invalid the moment the standard car arrives at Mansory HQ, and Lambo has its own personalisation programme anyway. Vibrant pink is apparently very big in Qatar. Perhaps not on the Old Brompton Road, though.
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ooler than trainspotters and far less muddy than gull-seeking “twitchers”, Britain’s aeroplane-loving community was out in force this summer for one of the biggest events on the sky-watcher’s calendar. It only comes every two years, and the Farnborough Air Show – despite sounding rather like a village fête – is always worth the wait. Combining the thrum of jet engines and the buzz of aeronautical wheeling and dealing, the show transforms this little corner of Hampshire into an international trading floor – and is always good for a newspaper headline or two. This time it was a story about orders totalling more than $90bn being placed – twice that of 2010 – and a beaming Richard Branson also put in a media-pleasing appearance as he stood alongside a mock-up of his new Virgin Galactic SpaceShipTwo. He delighted in telling the crowds that he wanted to ‘revolutionise the way we get into space’ and said that he and his children would be the first passengers when his space tourism venture finally kicks into gear in 2014. He added that more than 500 paying customers have signed up for subsequent flights – Ashton Kutcher, Tom Hanks and Brad Pitt are reputedly amongst them. Branson also used the show to announce that in tandem with his space tourism programme, he is setting up a new venture called LauncherOne, which will tow private companies’ satellites into space for a very competitive fee of $10m. Even Branson’s smile couldn’t brighten some of the worst weather in the show’s history, but it didn’t deter the crowds, who flocked to see such visual treats as Airbus’ huge A400m Atlas military transport aircraft and Boeing’s groundbreaking V-22 Osprey, which takes off like a helicopter but then flies away like a regular aeroplane. These two aviation giants were always going to be behind the week-long event’s biggest story, and were locked in an unofficial battle to secure the most deals. The Americans won the day with orders totalling $37bn (compared to Airbus’ $16.9bn), but orders, of course, only tell half of the story, and with the aeronautical industry as affected by the economic downturn as anyone, insiders were left wondering if Farnborough 2012 might be known as the one where everything seemed to be written in disappearing ink. ‘Some of the orders are very provisional,’ explains Charles Alcock, Editor of Aviation International News. ‘They could easily be scaled back or cancelled, which will cause headaches to manufacturers who face a dilemma as to how to ramp up production rates in a cost-efficient way without being over-exposed.’ The show also revealed fault lines in Europe’s
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defence sector, according to Alcock, who says that despite applauding Prime Minister David Cameron for putting in an appearance at this year’s event, the industry was privately
‘LauncherOne will tow private companies’ satellites into space for a very competitive fee of $10m’ complaining about ‘miserly levels of government support for technology development.’ Not that any of this meant much to the paying public, of course, who were there to take in the flying displays by the colossal Airbus A380, a Vulcan bomber, Breitling Jet Team’s wingwalkers and more. Perennial favourites The Red Arrows opened the show with a predictably dazzling display, but rivalling them in terms of ‘wow’ factor were a collection of aircraft that didn’t even need pilots. Unmanned Aerial Vehicles – UAVs, or ‘drones’ – featured heavily this year, hinting at innumerable possibilities for the future of flight, and not just for the military. David Hambling, writing about the show for tech website Wired.com, pointed out that significant numbers of small, remote-controlled aircraft had already been quietly bought all over the UK, ‘with over 100 operators ranging from estate agents and surveyors wanting to look at chimneys to film-makers.’ Unmanned was certainly a buzzword at this year’s event, with BAE showing off a modified Jetstream turboprop which could fly and, in emergencies, land itself. Their work, says the company, is essentially a software project to create a ‘co-pilot in a box.’ Not everything was quite so serious or futuristic, however: a team from Lego were there with a model of the Rolls-Royce Trent 1000 jet engine, the beast that powers Boeing’s new 787 Dreamliner. Made up of 152,000 Lego bricks, it even moved – but perhaps not at the same speed as the Rolls Royce version, which burns fuel at around 2,000C, not far off half the temperature of the Sun’s surface. Finally, the show might have been in Britain, but European airlines didn’t get a look-in at the annual Skytrax World Airline Awards, the winners of which were announced at the event. Qatar Airlines won Best Airline in The World for the second year running, followed by Asiana, Singapore, Cathay Pacific and ANA (All Nippon Airways). The best airline in Europe, said the judges, was Turkish Airlines, closely followed by Lufthansa. BA came in at a very respectable fifth.
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Flying high Farnborough air show has been drawing the biggest players in the industry since 1948. This year, it’s more about spaceships than aircrafts - Mike Peake reports
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arrive and revive
The ‘Alm’ we hiked to today was an insider tip from our host. The view from here of sun-kissed mountain peaks reaching for the sky is simply spellbinding. We feel totally free, nearly giddy with joy. We might even spend the night up here. Just like the dairy maid. For information about holidays in Austria, visit www.austria.info/treasures or call 0845 101 1818
The MAYFAIR Magazine | Motoring
A cause for celebration
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The Chubb Insurance Concours d’Elégance at Salon Privé 2012 offers a chance to see some of the most unique and beautiful cars ever made, and the whole event can be enjoyed with the added bonus of luxury dining, Pommery Champagne and spectacular live entertainment
he term Concours d’Elégance refers to an automobile competition that judges the designs and styles of elegant, sumptuous classic cars. Originating in Paris in the early 1920s, the competition is typified by beautiful locations, refined elegance and only the rarest and most valuable of vehicles. Still only in its sixth year, the Chubb Insurance Concours d’Elégance at Salon Privé is already regarded by many as one of the top three classic car events in the world alongside Pebble Beach and Villa d’Este. Taking judging cues from the original French Concours d’Elégance, a comprehensive points system operates at Salon Privé to correctly score vehicles not only on their elegance and style, but also their originality, authenticity and heritage. Participating judges are selected for their specific knowledge of key marques, as well as for their enthusiasm and experience in adjudicating over priceless collections of rare, classic motor vehicles. Five time Le Mans Winner, Derek Bell MBE, returning once again as Chief Judge said: ‘With such an exquisite line up of exclusives and debuts, it is an honour to have been asked to be Chief Judge again. I am particularly excited about the very special ROFGO Gulf collection and the line-up of unique shooting brakes. The only place on earth you will see such a gathering of automotive rarities is Salon Privé at Syon Park in September – and I for one wouldn’t miss it for the world.’ Once again, the Concours d’Elégance is sponsored by Chubb Insurance, a leading insurer of higher-value homes, art, antiques, jewellery and cars. While not a household name, like other select brands at Salon Privé, the company pursues excellence over volume, a brand ambition epitomised by the fact they have been voted by brokers as 'Personal Insurer of the Year', seven times in the last ten years; an unparalleled accolade, which has seen Chubb as the recommended insurer for the Aston Martin Owners Club and Ferrari Owners Club. ‘This is
CLASSES CLASS A Ferrari F40 - Celebrating 25 years of an icon CLASS B Pre-war rarities CLASS C Closed sports cars from the Swinging Sixties CLASS D Vee-Twins through the ages CLASS E Open sports cars from the Swinging Sixties CLASS F Collection of shooting brakes CLASS G Bugatti - the vintage competition series
Chubb's fourth year as the Concours sponsor, and we're delighted to support such a fabulous event. It's a thrill to see that so many of our clients' cars have entered the show,’ says Simon Mobey, European personal insurance manager. ‘In 2012, we will be showcasing a range of cars that illustrate our expertise in insuring the oldest classic to the rarest supercar. On the Concours Lawn we’re hosting an iconic car from the 1950s; the D-Type Jaguar, kindly loaned by a private collector and client of Chubb, which was the first sports car to lap any circuit in Britain at an average speed of over 100mph. It was the car that put Jim Clark, the Lewis Hamilton of his time, firmly on the track to international racing stardom.’
CHUBB INSURANCE CONCOURS D’ELÉGANCE JUDGING DAY 7 September, Salon Privé 2012 10:00am 11:00am 12:00pm 12:30pm
Judging begins Event opens Pommery Champagne Reception Luncheon served in Concours VIP Area 2:00pm Placement of rosettes on winning cars 2:30pm- 5.00pm Concours d’Elégance Parade and Awards Presentation, People’s Choice Award Presentation, Lime Avenue Parking Award Presentation 4:00pm English Afternoon Tea served in the Concours Awards Area 5:00pm Winners’ Lap of Honour 7:00pm Salon Privé closes
CLASS H Important competition machines CLASS I The design class featuring Carrozzeria Touring Superleggera CLASS J Mercedes-Benz Gullwing - the legend at 60
SALON PRIVÉ 5 - 7 SEPTEMBER, SYON PARK 10% OFF ALL TICKETS! Quote MAYFAIR124 for your discount. Call 0808 100 2205 or buy online www.salonprivelondon.com
Tickets from £195 + VAT, inclusive of Pommery Champagne, lobster luncheon, complimentary bar, afternoon tea & full access to all areas. 115
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Travel news
Two very different Italian fashion hotels, one in the home of the brand, one a little further afield. And the top tips to get you to both in style W O R D S : K AT E R A C O V O L I S
TRAVEL TIPS DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT... An Otis Batterbee sleep mask. Made with pure cotton velvet backing to gently cover your eyes and block out the light, while a touch of lavender inside helps to relax even the most restless of minds – the perfect aid to your travel slumber. £45, Otis Batterbee (www.otisbatterbee.com) THERE’S AN APP FOR THAT... PHOTOSYNTH By stitching together multiple images of one place, Photosynth allows you to create a 3D experience capturing panoramas and 360-degree views. Show everyone where you have been and what you have seen with just a few clicks of your iPhone. Free from the iTunes App Store
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Short haul
Armani Hotel Milano, Lombardy, Italy
In the heart of the Quadrilatero della Moda (the ‘quadrilateral of fashion’) is the Armani Hotel Milano (pitctured below) – an elegant retreat, showcasing all the elements of classic Armani design. With marbled bathrooms and small atriums in each room, there is a chic, yet somehow homely feel. The Armani/Ristorante offers rich, traditionally Italian flavours while you sit overlooking the skyline and terraces of Milan – not just a place to stay, but a lifestyle. (www.armanihotels.com)
Long haul Bulgari, Bali
The Bulgari hotel (pictured above) in Bali is overlooked by a traditional temple at the highest point of the resort that is said to act as a guardian to the well-being of its guests. This concept is at the heart of the hotel’s identity, as they seek to balance Balinese culture with the luxurious Italian design of Bulgari. Overlooking the pristine Jimbaran Bay, east meets west in many corners of the hotel. The spa is also designed to blend Asian and European techniques with ayurvedic Balinese rituals and ESPA facial treatments, body wraps and massages. The experience is personal and escapist, with each villa fitted with its own plunge pool, patio and private tropical garden, and interiors adorned with Balinese antiques and exotic artworks. The resort also is home to the only Bulgari boutique in Bali, adding a small but stylish touch to the tropical getaway. (www.bulgarihotels.com)
‘A WRAP DRESS CAN BE ROLLED AND WILL EMERGE FROM YOUR LUGGAGE WITHOUT NEEDING IRONING OR DRY-CLEANING. A BASIC TRAVEL RUBRIC MIGHT BE A COUPLE OF DRESSES, A PAIR OF PANTS, A COUPLE OF EVENING TOPS, SOMETHING DRESSY’ - Diane Von Furstenberg
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The MAYFAIR Magazine | Travel
P Natalie Cox explores the stunning Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc and finds out why the world’s biggest stars have made it their sanctuary for over a hundred years.
icasso stayed there (and designed a new menu one summer’s day in 1955); Elizabeth Taylor’s luggage stayed there for several days by itself until its glamorous owner arrived fashionably late; Sharon Stone stayed there and ordered a Nebuchadnezzar of champagne on a whim, the hotel is, of course, Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc. It stands proudly on the southern tip of the Cap d’Antibes on the French Riviera, with the vast expanse of the Mediterranean ocean undulating complacently close by: the ultimate water feature. Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc walks the line between privacy and utter isolation, shielded as it is by an idyllic 22 acres of garden and centuries-old pine forest. It is still a comfortable distance from historic villages and towns such as Saint-Paul-de-Vence and Eze, not to mention popular destinations such as Nice and Monaco. The five-star hotel has played host to a who’s who of the international scene for well over a hundred years; a landmark of the Riviera and a bastion of old-world glamour successfully juxtaposed with new-world luxury. Nearby, a wealth of culture is on hand in the form of galleries and museums displaying some of the world’s greatest art collections. And for those who tire of the quiet life, events such as the Jazz à Juan, the Antique Show of Antibes, the Voiles d’Antibes, and the Antibes Yacht Show occur throughout the year. The building that would become the hotel was discovered by a certain young visionary hotelier Antoine Sella, who lovingly restored it over a period of several years, opening it in 1889. The hotel, combining elegance with
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modernity, came to redefine luxury for a new generation of bright young things, as aristocrats and their offspring descended in droves. The hotel was soon the stomping ground du jour for the upper classes in the winter months. It looks much the same, outwardly, as when it first opened, though many millions of pounds have been spent on its upkeep over the years. Sella’s most notable addition to the hotel is the famous outdoor swimming pool, carved into rock using dynamite, created in a bid to do away with the myth that the Mediterranean coast was an unhealthy choice for summer sojourns and introduce a summer as well as winter season. His gamble paid off, with many guests including George Bernard Shaw and Marc Chagall coming to stay. Even Wallis Simpson came for an extended stay far from the public gaze with the newly abdicated Duke of Windsor, previously King Edward VIII. The swimming pool may be the feature that stays in guests’ minds, but there have been many other subtle alterations over the years. The recent €45 million restoration, however, is the biggest refurbishment the hotel has seen since the 1950’s, and whilst the building has been completely modernised, its spirit remains unchanged. All rooms have been refurbished, refreshing faded fabrics and adding modern technology. Those worried about overmodernisation will also be reassured to know that all bathrooms will have a traditional faucet by Collection Axor Carlton from Hans Grohé. For those who desire absolute privacy, two villas in the grounds, each with three bedrooms, combine the first class facilities of the hotel with the exclusivity of a private residence. The charmingly Provencal Villa Les Cèdres features a fully equipped kitchen and a terrace with an
outdoor jacuzzi. Villa Eleana is hidden in an enclave far from the main buildings, where guests can frolic in their private swimming pool, being attended by their own butler. A private chef can also be called on, meaning utter escapism with your chosen few. Villa residents would do well to brave the outside world for the hotel wellness centre, though, which offers signature treatments from La Prairie. The clay tennis courts and famous heated seawater pool offer opportunities to exercise away any residual stress, whilst the concierge is happy to arrange water sport or yachting excursions. The hotel continues to draw in the biggest of names, particularly at the annual bacchanal of the film industry, Cannes, which occurs each year just 15 minutes down the road (or a short nip on the yacht from the hotel’s private pier). Vanity Fair co-hosted their Cannes party there this year with Gucci, attended by stars such as Salma Hayek, Alec Baldwin, Gerard Butler and Robert De Niro. Karl Lagerfeld even chose the hotel as the location for Chanel’s 2011 resort collection many years after Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel first stayed in the area – claiming the designs were inspired by Rita Hayworth and Prince Aly Khan, who met at the hotel and later married. But what makes the hotel the perennial choice for so many? It might have something to do with the beauty of the interior décor: luxurious fabrics in striking patterns combine with white walls and large windows looking out onto either the ocean or the gardens. The furniture is in the typically chintzy French-style, with plenty of gold and beautiful wooden writing desks and cabinets. It is Paris with its
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hair down, stylish neatness tempered by joie de vivre. The marble bath tubs in the bathrooms don’t do any harm either, nor does the 200 sqm private terrace and the outdoor jacuzzi in the Eden-Roc suite atop the Eden-Roc pavilion, the views from which are enough to have you entertaining the notion of pitching up there for the entire summer. You’d certainly be well catered for if you decide to make like 1920s high society and book a suite out for the long run. Arnaud Poëtte has been found in the kitchens of the hotel since 1983, having been crowned France’s Best Apprentice Cook in 1977. In 1996 Poëtte was joined by master confectioner Lilian Bonnefoi, who would go on to win the title of Best Pastry Chef (Côte d’Azur) in 2008. For those too relaxed for formal dining, the chic Eden-Roc Grill & Lounge bar offers elegant
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cocktails with sushi and tapas, whilst the two hotel bars provide the ideal post-dinner hang out. F. Scott Fitzgerald used Hotel du Cap-EdenRoc as inspiration for Gausse’s Hôtel des Étrangers in his novel Tender is the Night. The book would become one of the most famous insights into the glamorous lifestyle of the French Riviera in the 1920s: ‘Lately it has become a summer resort of notable and fashionable people,’ pronounced Fitzgerald in the opening paragraph. The author would no doubt approve of the hotel’s commitment to elegance and glamour; it is truly an ageless Eden, as enchanting now as when it opened all those years ago.
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FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: RITA HAYWORTH, JEAN-LOUIS BARRAULT AND MADELEINE RENAUD AT THE HOTEL DU CAP-EDEN-ROC; CHANEL 2012 RTW SPRING/SUMMER ADVERTISING CAMPAIGN SHOT BY KARL LAGERFELD. SHOT AT THE HOTEL; MILLA JOVOVICH; ALAIN DELON; MARLENE DIETRICH; KATE BECKINSALE, ALL AT THE HOTEL
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The ancient city might be one of the most historic places to visit, but the show-stopping culture during the day gives way to a sizzling nightlife after dark. Stephen Doig explores
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ith the exception of San Francisco, the winding, cobbled lanes of Lisbon must be some of the most vertiginous streets on the planet. But don’t let that deter you from exploring on foot; Lisbon is a cauldron of enclaves, culture and vibrant nightlife that begs to be discovered. The destination has for too long been an after-thought on the map, relegated behind Spanish hot spots Barcelona and Madrid. However, it has quietly claimed a place as one of the best places to live in terms of quality of life, according to USA Today. It’s easy to see why. Despite the balmy temperatures, the city sits beside an azure sea, assuring cool breezes. It’s relatively quiet and dappled as far as the eye can see are slices of history: myriad churches that overlook the city streets, the majestic St George’s Castle and the Art Deco grandeur of the Eden Theatre. High fashion has beat a path to Lisbon’s doors too, with Prada, Gucci, Louis Vuitton and the city’s own designer emporium, Fashion Clinic, housed on the leafy Avenida da Liberdade, and the city also boasts a rising modern art scene. Whilst the impressively colossal Placa do Comercio is a must, as is the rainbow spectrum of flora and fauna at the Lisbon Botanical Gardens, the city’s real hidden treasures lie in the Bairro Alto and Chiado districts. Situated to the east of the city’s main attractions, it’s here that Lisbon comes alive after dark. A warren of cobbled streets, ancient candy-coloured buildings and fairy-lights strung above unfold. A hive of bars and restaurants, it a scene that could easily echo that of Latin America – along the Rua do Diano de Noticias and the Rua da Atalaia, revelers spill onto streets to sip Caipirinhas and listen to street music; the effect is intoxicating. And if weary feet can’t face the series of hill climbs home, one of the biggest attractions of the city are the trams, which have operated around the city since 1873. Blurring past cerulean blue- and magenta-hued buildings, covered in bougainvillea, as the scent of the sea whistles through the streets and music plays from outdoor musicians, it is more romantic than a limousine any day. 122
Where to stay Situated on a hill above the Avenida da Liberdade, the Four Seasons Ritz hotel sits like a grande dame overlooking the rest of the city (www.fourseasons.com/ lisbon). Guests are greeted with traditional Portuguese port and baked custard tartlets and the service is impeccable. The groundfloor bar offers sumptuous surroundings beside the sprawling terrace, but it’s on the upper levels that the hotel truly comes into its own: the top floor is a gym and running track that overlooks the city, from the Cristo Rei statue in the West to the ports of the East.
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Eating and drinking A venture to Bairro Alto and Chiado are a must, but central Lisbon also offers a wealth of dining experience. The buzzing, panoramic Placa do Comercio has a range of restaurants with large terraces to enjoy the view. Head to Aura for the last word in Portuguese gastronomy (www. auraloungecafe.com), and then on to Bica do Sapato for an after-dinner cocktail, incidently co-owned by A-lister John Malkovich (www.bicadosapato.com).
Mayfair recommends Head out East of the city to the Parque das Nacoes. The newest and most gleaming of Lisbon districts is an homage to all things cutting edge, with incredible architecture and art all around. It was founded as the home of the World Expedition, is pedestrian friendly and its Matrixmodern surroundings have played backdrop to shoots by David LaChapelle.
ALL IMAGES ©FOUR SEASONS
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The MAYFAIR Magazine | Travel
SUITCASE ESSENTIALS #1 Sunglasses, £299, Cutler and Gross
#2 Cashmere and silk printed scarf, £800, Hermès
#3 Sun cream; £33.95 The Organic Pharmacy
#4 Jacket; £2,200 Brioni
#5 Bag; £3,420, Loro Piana
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Confidence in Excellence
Our Breast Care Unit provides breast screening, state-of-the-art technology and internationally renowned specialists – creating a dynamic breast care service. Offering first-class diagnosis, treatment and support for patients with breast conditions; you can be confident you are receiving the highest standards of care at The Wellington Hospital.
BREAST CARE UNIT
020 7483 5004 www.thewellingtonhospital.com
The MAYFAIR Magazine agazine | Beauty
Treatment of the month Changing seasons can be tough on skin, so this autumn book in for a Vaishaly Signature Facial at the Four Seasons Hotel, Park Lane, which will deep-cleanse and sort out any problems leaving you with a super-soft, radiant complexion. Vaishaly believes that our state of mind is expressed in our skin, so her magical facial massage technique (known to beauty insiders as her ‘anti-ageing beauty secret’) eases away the stress and worry from your both life and your face. Expect glowing results in time for LFW. Vaishaly Signature Facial at The Spa at the Four Seasons Hotel, Park Lane, £140 for 60 minutes
MAYFAIR LOVES…
Beauty news With high-tech make-up and stress-easing facials – bring on LFW!
Estée Lauder’s new Beyond Black collection – dark has never been so chic. Pure Nail Color in ‘Blue Blood’, £14.50, Estée Lauder (www.esteelauder.com)
New-season fragrances
WORDS: ELLE BLAKEMAN
This month, chic French-meets-New York brand, Chantecaille has solved the HD close-up crisis with its amazing new compact – a light-reflective powder that erases pores and fine lines, leaving you with flawless photo-ready skin in a flash. HD Perfecting Powder, £62, Kabuki Brush, £60, Chantecaille (available at www.spacenk.com)
THE WORD ON THE (MAYFAIR) STREET
EF Medispa have just launched a bespoke £25,000 Haute Couture skincare programme. The six-month plan will be a personal prescription of products and treatments, designed to make your skin the best it can possibly be – expect miracles. EF Medispa (www.efmedispa.com) From 1st September, Sisley will donate a huge 10 per cent of all sales of its best-selling Sisleÿa Global Anti-Age and Sisleÿa Eye & Lip Contour Cream to the incredible Kid’s Company’s Heart Yard campaign. Packing a real punch of anti-aging ingredients at impressively high levels, your skin will be as clear as your conscience. Sisleÿa Global Anti-Age, £251; Sisleÿa Eye & Lip Contour Cream, £109, both Sisley (www.sisley.com)
#1 Iris Nobile Sublime, £82, Acqua di Parma (available at Harrods)
12 #2 Vanitas, £34, Versace (www.versace. com)
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#3 Orange Tulle, £95, Jo Loves (www.joloves.com)
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As Lanvin reignited the reign of the cat eye and Chloè kept it natural, we bring you the latest beauty trends for A/W 12 and show you how to create them W O R D S : K AT E R A C O V O L I S
BACKSTAGE Beauty CAT EYES
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Lanvin made a bold statement on the catwalk this A/W, reminding us of the dramatic glamour of the cat eye. While Lanvin amped up the look with intense, solid black, Erdem gave the look a modern twist, applying liquid liner only to the outer corners of the eye. Estée Lauder’s new eyeliner gives a defined line on your upper lids, the thick, easy-to-hold pen allows for the steady hand necessary when applying precise lines, while the pointed tip guides the slight flick at the corner, ideal for both thick and slim lines. Just add high-volume mascara for Cleopatraworthy eyes. Quick Thick Eyeliner in ‘Punker Black’, £20, Estée Lauder (www. esteelauder.co.uk), Noir Couture Mascara, £22.50, Givenchy Harrods available from H (www.harrods.com)
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2 GLOWING SKIN Many of the Parisian fashion houses went back to basics this season, with natural, glowing complexions beaming from the runways of Chloè, Isabel Marant and Christian Dior. With the right products, this trend can have you looking like you’ve come straight from a facial. Yves Saint Laurent’s new foundation, a sister product to their famous Touche Éclat, is ideal for adding a bright, youthful glow to your skin while covering any imperfections. If you’re on-the-go, Laura Mercier’s new Shimmer Bloc is lifting for the eyes, cheeks or body with light-reflecting pigment. Le Teint Touche Éclat Foundation, £28 Yves Saint Laurent (www.yslbeauty.co.uk) Shimmer Bloc in ‘Starlet Mosaic’, £31 Laura Mercier (www.lauramercier.com)
The MAYFAIR Magazine | Beauty
4 STRONG BROWS
WINDSWEPT CHEEKS
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Any excuse to add Mr Ford’s make-up line to our beauty routine will do, but as flushed, pink cheeks have appeared on many of the catwalks, including Michael Kors and Mulberry, we now have another. Although most of the shows had seriously rosy looks, you will probably prefer to tone it down a little for a more everyday look. Simply add a subtle touch of this blush under the cheekbones just below the apple of your cheek with your finger and blend with a larger blusher brush. Cheek Color in ‘Wicked’, £45, Tom Ford available from Harrods (www.harrods.com)
Like our wardrobes, A/W’s effect on our beauty regime is often a dramatic and darkening one. This season, thick, full brows were seen all over, adding structure to flawless runway faces. Tom Ford took his to an extreme in his womenswear collection, while Christopher Kane toned it down pairing dark brows with translucent nude makeup. Less is more in this trend, so finding the right colour to match your own brows is key. Clinique’s new Instant Lift opens up the eyes by brightening the brow line and comes in three shades, while Tom Ford’s Brow Sculptor will give you more a of a full and dramatic fill - the choice is yours. Brow Sculptor in Taupe, £32, Tom Ford, available from Selfridges (www.selfridges. com). Instant Lift for Brows in Soft Blonde, £15, Clinique (www.clinique.co.uk)
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Deep plums and shades of rouge are timeless colours for winter lips. Viktor & Rolf matched dark glossy lips with black, fawn and white fur coats for a Russian glamour-inspired look. Nars’ latest lip gloss is ideal for this look, with rich pigment and a seriously glossy shine (but with no need for lip liner), leaving you with a seductive pout that will last the night. And if you prefer the colour without the gloss, à la Christian Dior’s haute couture show, try Yves Saint Laurent’s new matte lip colours – a range of light red and pinks for a classic, iconic finish. Rouge Tribal Larger Than Life Lip Gloss, £19, Nars (www.narscosmetics.co.uk)
MAIN IMAGES FROM LEFT: LANVIN A/W12; CHRISTIAN DIOR A/W12; MICHAEL KORS A/W12; MICHAEL KORS A/W12; VIKTOR & ROLF A/W12
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Captivate Your Senses The first internationally-acclaimed Chuan Spa in Europe is now open at The Langham, London. Rediscover your source with luxurious treatments inspired by the philosophy of Traditional Chinese Medicine.
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AUCKLAND • BOSTON • HONG KONG • LONDON • LOS ANGELES • MELBOURNE • SHANGHAI
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Spa review
The Bulgari Spa, Bulgari Hotel, Knightsbridge WORDS: ELLE BLAKEMAN
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ashion rarely confines itself to the catwalk. It leaps into chic, pastel-coloured afternoon teas, it’s behind the latest bar du jour and it’s the reason your new iPhone will never be quite new enough. The Bulgari Spa in Knightsbridge is another place where the glamorous, intangible je ne sais quoi of fashion lurks in every corner: in the deep lacquered doors and plush black carpet corridors, the large, waterfall-style showers, and the 25-metre pool complete with cabanas that will make you feel like you are on a long-haul holiday, rather than a few steps away from one of the busiest streets in London. Set in the basement over two floors – making it one of the largest spas in London – the Bulgari spa allows for plenty of discretion and breathing space. The beige Vicenza stone walls and occasional green onyx interior create a modern, earthy feel, setting the spa up as an inner-city haven for relaxation. In addition to the huge green and gold mosaic-lined pool, Bulgari boosts a beautiful sauna and steam area, ice fountains and cooling showers, and 11 treatment rooms, all leaving you with no doubt of the chic, Italian heritage at the heart of the brand. The Enzyme Renewing Facial, a signature treatment using Espa products, involves a deep cleanse, incorporating skin brushing, followed by a peel with natural enzymes from pumpkins and botanical extracts, which deeply exfoliates the skin, removing dulling dead skin cells. Painless, although with a slight tingle, the results from the peel are instant – skin looks brighter and younger. To distract from the tingling, your therapist will give you a head massage with Espa’s hair mask (leave this on for as long as you can bear – up to a day – and you will have beautifully shiny hair as a bonus). To complete the facial, Espa’s Lifting and Smoothing Mask is applied, leaving skin plump and healthy. Afterwards, avoid the real, non-fashion world for a little while longer and head for one of the pool-side cabanas or spend some time in the gold-leaf mosasic vitality pool with massage chairs – pure escapism. Enzyme Renewing Facial, 90 minutes, £175. (www.bulgarihotels.com)
‘A beautiful sauna and steam area, ice fountains and cooling showers, and 11 treatment rooms’
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AVOIDANCE ISSUES Men avoiding health issues isn’t a new reaction, it’s almost expected. This month, Blue September offers men across the UK to challenge this age-old predisposition and tackle those big health concerns.
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oo busy; too tired; have more important things to do. Do these sound familiar? For whatever reason most men do not like paying a visit to their GP. The reality is that most men are pressured by their partner, or other members of their family to get that ‘problem’ checked. Blue September is an annual campaign across the UK, Ireland, USA, Australia and New Zealand which encourages facing up to cancer in men. Show your support by visiting your GP or urging a friend or family member to do the same. Logically, the longer you leave a condition the worse it may become. And that niggling problem may not be as big as you think, for instance, testicular cancer is increasingly common in younger men, and though it is paramount to have any lumps checked out – finding lumps is not uncommon, and there could be many reasons, not as serious as cancer, which could be causing them.
‘Logically, the longer you leave a condition the worse it may become’ Statistics show that men in the UK are not nearly as healthy as they could be. And according to the Blue September website, men are more likely than women to be overweight, smoke and to drink to risky levels, but far less likely to visit their GPs. By making simple changes to your lifestyle you can make huge differences to your health and wellbeing, for you and your family: 1. Smoking is the main cause of lung cancer and can be the instigator of many more diseases. Try cutting down or challenge yourself to stamp smoking out altogether 2. Limit your alcohol intake, or at least have alcohol free days every week 3. Eat a healthy and varied diet; choosing to eat fresh food over processed and fatty foods at every opportunity 4. Keep active – if you’re not used to exercise start slowing and build up; even moderate exercise will improve your fitness 5. Look out for changes in your health, particularly unusual lumps and growths, tiredness, weight loss, lack of appetite, recurrent pain and blood in your stools, vomit or urine. 130
Most importantly, if you have a problem that you’ve disregarded, ignored or perhaps hid, speak to your GP. Health issues won’t disappear of their own accord, and early detection is a key factor in improving outcomes. (www.malehealth.co.uk; www.blueseptember.org.uk)
Testicular self examination Dr Lisa Anderson, Private GP at The Wellington Hospital, offers practical advice on how to self examine for testicular cancer. Although testicular cancer only accounts for 1% of all cancers in men, it is the biggest cause of cancer-related deaths in men aged 15-35 years in the UK. Annually, 1 in 400 men develop the disease, which is now on the rise. Although testicular cancer is rare, it is not at all uncommon to find a lump in your testicles. There are many conditions that can be easily confused with testicular cancer, and most of them are not anything like as serious. It is important to check your testicles every month or so. This simple examination saves lives and it does not take long- so do not put it off. • You should be lying in a warm bath or have a long shower as this softens the skin of the scrotum making it easier to feel the testicles inside • Look for any obvious lumps on the skin or swellings inside • Cradle the whole scrotum and testicles in the palm of your hand and feel the difference between the testicles. One is almost always larger and lies lower which is completely normal • Examine each testicle in turn and then compare with each other using both hands to roll each testis between your thumb and forefinger • Check for any lumps or swellings as both testes should be smooth EXCEPT where the tube called the epididymis runs upwards towards the groin. This normally feels bumpy but can feel thickened If you have any concerns please see your GP. The Wellington Hospital also has a private GP service if you would like a quick appointment at a time convenient to you. Please call the Enquiry Helpline on 020 7483 5004
The MAYFAIR Magazine agazine | Health Promotion
MEET THE SPECIALIST Dr Lisa Anderson qualified from St Mary’s Hospital in 1986 and practices both within the NHS and private sectors. With 20 years experience, her all round knowledge is supplemented by special interests – chronic disease management, health screening, well men and women checks, paediatrics, diabetes and mental health. She is dedicated to providing a first class service at the The Platinum Medical Centre.
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LET THE SUN SHINE
The new terrace at The Rib Room Bar & Restaurant in Knightsbridge is the ideal destination for summer. A secluded and sophisticated venue for morning coffee or light meals, the terrace becomes a cigarist’s paradise in the evening with an extensive choice of whisky, cocktails and wine complementing a new cigar menu. For more information visit theribroom.co.uk or call 020 7858 7250 Jumeirah Carlton Tower, Cadogan Place, Knightsbridge, London SW1X 9PY
12-06-15, City magazine - RR bar ad v3.indd 1
18/06/2012 17:04:52
The MAYFAIR Magazine | Food & Drink
More for Morton’s It was left to Boujis old boys Carlo Carello and Jake ParkinsonSmith to take the Night Lounge at Morton’s private member’s club from just another luxury evening haunt to the latest magnet for the toast of London’s high society. The crowd can expect to descend into a world of decadence; with guests being greeted personally at the door and enjoying speedy bar to table service. With Princess Beatrice and Chelsy Davy part of an intimate focus group who lent Carello their thoughts, the newly named ‘2 & 8’ is sure to be a hit. Reopening in September, Morton’s, 28 Berkeley Square, W1J 6EN
From sea to Harrods
Food & drink news Innovative Chinese food, Japanese cocktails and the only place to be seen this September W O R D S : N ATA L I E C O X
Chinese extreme Two-starred Michelin chef Alvin Leung will be bringing his ‘X-treme’ Chinese cuisine outside of Hong Kong for the first time this month when he opens Bo London. A self-taught chef, Leung combines centuries-old Chinese recipes with modern techniques. Leung’s Bo Innovation restaurant just missed out on appearing on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list this year (coming in at 52) making the future for this innovative chef look very bright indeed! Opening in September, Bo London, 4 Mill Street, W1S 2AX
Bentley’s Sea Grill is bringing their stellar seafood menu to Harrods this month, with their classic Hot Rock Oysters and simply cooked but flavourful fish. Many of the signature dishes from their Swallow Street restaurant are to be served, including Bentley’s Royal fish pie, which was served at the Queen’s 80th birthday as part of the BBC series Great British Menu. It’s the perfect excuse to take a break from shopping or to drop in for visitors and locals alike. From early September, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, SW1X 7XL
One for the runway This is one of those ‘not sure we should share’ tips, as Ni Jū San, Hakkasan’s bar in St James, is currently the ideal place to pop in for an evening cocktail – chic Japanese décor, intimate low lighting, brilliant staff, and just enough off the main road for only a select few to have realised what a gem it is (so you can get to the bar in a nanosecond). However we must divulge, as they have created a delicious range of cocktails in time for LFW, celebrating four leading Japanese fashion designers. The ‘Ranwai’ collection pays homage to Comme des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake and Yayoi Kusama, each inspired by the signature style of the designers. Ni Jū San, 23 St James’s Street, SW1A 1HA
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Going green As the trend for vegetarianism gets stronger, Cecilia Castle finds the best places to eat in Mayfair, without sacrificing on taste
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f you were to ask a vegetarian whether they’d consider nibbling on a bit of meat, no matter how meagre the portion, they’re likely to look back at you in horror. It’s very different in the other camp, though; for when steaks, sausages and pork chops are removed from a meat-eater’s diet, after a moan and whine, they’ll concede. Perhaps just for a few days, or even a few meals, but they’ll concede all the same. The reason is rather simple, as vegetarians and vegans prove time and time again, a plate does not need to consist of meat to be or taste plentiful. Many suggest that without any meat, a dish lacks its pièce de resistance, but as long as protein is provided in hearty quantities by grains, beans and pulses, there is absolutely no harm – vegetarians often counter-argue – in cutting meat from a diet. Somehow, the message seems to be getting out, for increasingly, meat-eaters are shedding their shoulder chips and beginning to truly acknowledge just how good a vegetarian diet can be. It’s visible in central London and the west end, where restaurateurs are helping make this change happen. The varied handfuls of vegetarian-only restaurants scattered around Mayfair support the theory that we’ve never
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been more interested in gourmet, ‘green’ food. Vegetarian dedication, for example, comes across at Mildred’s. If anything is going to turn a meat-eater into understanding the subtleties of veg-only dishes, this Lexington Street gem would certainly be a contender. There are burritos stuffed with Tabasco-tinged black turtle beans and tomatillo rice, detox salads made up of sultanas, refreshing fennel, coriander and apple, or even, chickpea tagines, gyoza dumplings and roasted artichokes to share. Mildred’s is an informal sort of place, but its décor – a woodpanelled big room – belies that completely. The food is memorable, experimental and doesn’t for a moment leave you wondering whether something’s missing. What is most noticeable at Mildred’s, and similar haunts, is that it takes no part in the recent meat mania that has swept into London, nurturing a committed following in the last few months. Granted, meat-eaters have been consuming their food-of-choice for a long time, but a wave of new restaurant-openings in the capital has recently advocated meals of a hearty carnivorous quality. Among them are Ceviche, Burger and Lobster, La Bodega Negra, Lima and Pitt Cue & Co, which have all become as known for their long waiting lists, as they have
ABOVE: FAKHRELDINE; TOP RIGHT: CORRIGANS; RIGHT: CLARIDGES
The MAYFAIR Magazine | Food & Drink
for their menus which make either fish, or sauce-splashed meat, their centrepiece. In short, they make no allowances for incoming customers keen on a veg-only meal. Of course, it would be unfair and offensive to suggest that good vegetarian food has recently arrived as a reaction to this all-new meaty trend. One need only look at Sir Paul McCartney’s ‘Meat-Free Mondays’, which promotes the abstention of meat and the promotion of the vegetable to all types of omnivores across the world, to realise it is a long-established culinary mainstay. His campaign, on which he works collaboratively with daughters Mary and fashion designer Stella, is the natural extension of his late wife’s vegetarian endorsement back in the
1970s, which left the world with the ever-present and delicious ‘Linda McCartney Meals’. But of late, there’s been an undeniable resurgence of the vegetable. No longer is the ‘veg option’ the poor relation of the sating meal, it’s suddenly en vogue to replace pork with falafel, mince with pulsed cannellini bean mash, burgers with spiced nut roast. Foodies helping the vegetarian meal reclaim its winning hat are bewitching us with the inventive fashion in which they prepare their food. By re-injecting vegetable-based menus with original thought, and ridding the notion that the vegetarian choice is limited to a simply a melanzana parmigiana or a moussaka, they’ve breathed new life into this section of gastronomy. In a similar fashion to Mildred’s, Food For Thought in Covent Garden advocates this brand of dining. Pick from indulgent basil or oregano artisan loafs of bread, quiches, stuffed tomatoes, aubergines and mounds of stir-fry vegetables among the many options. Or try the vegetable-only Tibits; their focus is vegetarian heaven and unsurprisingly, the food, all gourmet pulse-based and bean-lined dishes, is exquisite: mango-banana curry and Punjabi chole are two of their most popular meals. While its food is wholesome, its back story also helps draw people in. Once upon a time, the
‘Pick from indulgent basil or oregano artisan loafs of bread, quiches, stuffed tomatoes, aubergines and mounds of stir-fry vegetables’
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Food & Drink | The MAYFAIR Magazine
‘It is from restaurants like these, that vegetable-based dishes have regained their popularity’
ABOVE: TIBITS; RIGHT: FOOD AT FAKHRELDINE
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Swiss Federal Institute of Technology launched a business competition which happened to be won by three brothers, Reto, Christian and Daniel Frei. They devised their own take on fast-food vegetarian, a concept that very much bridged the gap in the market they had so long been looking for as customers themselves. Having won two awards, Tibits was formed and the entrepreneurial brothers have never looked, or never needed, one should say, to look back. But it’s not just independent retailers who are flexing their green muscle. Eating at Claridge’s and Corrigan’s of Mayfair will pose no problem for vegetarians. Both these Mayfair hang-outs offer menus of the vegetable-only kind available for those who want it. A similar offering down at the lauded Hakkasan, where menus are drawn up for every eventuality and, cleverly, if you’re keen on something laced with fish or meat, the kitchen will happily switch a couple of the ingredients around to sate your needs and palate. If the flavour of Lebanese cuisine is up your street, Fakhreldine on Mayfair presents the best of it with various modern twists thrown in for good measure. Here, like at Hakkasan, all dishes come with the option of being made vegetarian. Therefore, if you prefer to enjoy your moussaka without lamb in it, that can easily be arranged, just as meatballs in a yoghurt sauce – the Kibbe Labanieh – can be altered to contain a falafel-like alternative. It is from restaurants like these, that vegetable-based dishes have regained their popularity and are becoming less overlooked in
favour of meat-heavy alternatives. Humans have been carnivorous since the beginning of time and nothing, we assume, will ultimately ever change that. But today’s chefs can be much more creative with vegetables than an unconvinced meat-eater may deem, and they’re slowly but surely opening up another culinary world to Londoners who haven’t yet dabbled. Instead of finding ingredients which help replicate a well-known meat-based meal, chefs are carving out their own set of ideas, ones that are now becoming the envy of the other eating class. It’s not why they’re doing it, but how? So finally, vegetables are getting the recognition they deserve – and we’re all more likely to be healthier for it.
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Telephone 01242 609489 www.sudeleycastle.co.uk Sudeley Castle, Winchcombe, the Cotswolds, Gloucestershire GL54 5JD
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South American
idol
Take a tour through Argentina as Gaucho’s head chef, Fernando Trocca showcases the best speciality cuts to emerge from his homeland. Elle Blakeman finds out what makes Gaucho the only place to eat steak
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s intangible things go, provenance is an interesting one. It can double the value of a car, it can reassure an art investor that his piece is worth the hefty price tag and it can prove that your signed first-edition really is worth building a new glass-fronted bookcase for. In food, provenance provides this same reassurance – history and value. It demonstrates that the chef knows precisely what he is serving you, where it came from, how it came to arrive in his kitchen, and therefore – most importantly – exactly what to do with it. Gaucho, the chic, low-lit restaurant that has single-handedly brought about a beef renaissance in London prides itself on this basic philosophy of provenance. Having hand-picked 43 of the best farms Argentina has to offer, Gaucho ensures that each follow a strict protocol, with free range, grass-fed cows (fed on 17 types of grass no less), used in order to ensure the best quality meal this side of South America. Argentina is of course known for its meat, and this is at the heart of Zeev Godik’s successful group that has gone from a single restaurant in Amsterdam in 1976, to becoming a byword for an excellent steak, now boosting 16 restaurants. And if steak is one of the best things to come out of Argentina, then Fernando Trocca, Gaucho’s executive chef for five years, is not far behind. Trocca’s vision for the food at Gaucho is all about incorporating authentic Argentine and Latin American dishes
into the menu, so you will find delicious, delicate Ceviches (his salmon ceviche, served with red jalapeno’s, onions and palm hearts is a must-try), Tiritados and Causitas among the meat that the group is famous for. But, inevitably, it does all come back to the steak, which after a 35-day long process of ‘Wet Aging’ (where the meat matures in its own juices) is available in a variety of speciality cuts. If you’re getting lost around the Cuadril (rump), Chorizo (sirloin), Ancho (rib eye) and Lomo (fillet), which would be understandable, you can order a Gaucho sampler, where you will be presented with a selection of each – 1.2 kgs of pure, cooked-to-perfection steak that is guaranteed to satisfy even the most demanding of carnivores. For those looking to explore the Argentinian vibe, Trocca has recently added some additional cuts: Argentine favourites Entraña Fina (marbled skirt), Media Luna de Vacio (flank steak) and Picana (the top of the Cuadril). To accompany your meal, you will find an extensive and exquisite wine list selected by Argentinian wine expert Phil Crozier; I challenge anyone to order just a single glass of the Gran Altura Malbec, a rich, savoury red that goes perfectly with a light, spicy starter. For white lovers, the Selection G White Blend is divine, and very easy to drink. Finish with the Dulce de Leche cheesecake and a glass of port-style Zuccardi Malbec, and then call a cab, go home, and sleep the sleep of the sated. Gaucho Piccadilly, 25 Swallow Street, London W1B 4QR (020 7734 4040) 139
READY FOR THE RUNWAY FROM TAILORED SUITS AND DESIGNER SHIRTS TO FOOTWEAR BY CHURCH’S AND EXQUISITE JEWELLERY BY TIFFANY & CO., CANARY WHARF HAS ALL YOUR FASHION NEEDS COVERED THIS SEASON Put Canary Wharf at the top of your must-visit retail destinations this season; with 3 hours free parking at weekends and the convenience of the Jubilee Line, make the most of a selection of high-end stores and diverse restaurant offering.
FOR MENSWEAR
Luxury tailoring and accessories brand Alfred Dunhill’s A/W12 ‘Voice’ campaign centres around men of achievement. Head to the recently opened Cabot Place store to see how masculinity transfers from the campaign to the company’s clothes. Aquascutum has been redefining essential pieces in the British wardrobe for years now and the company’s 2012 offering is no different. Tailoring is slim, sharp and immaculate, while angular lines echo the A of Aquascutum.
Alfred Dunhill
Gant’s A/W12 offerings are of a Nouveau Prep, tennis-inspired nature, perfect for an effortlessly chic sporting look, while Hugo Boss’s BOSS Green line addresses active fashion-oriented men with a golf and sportswear collection. Canary Wharf’s Moss store is the first to house not only its collection but also Moss Hire and Moss Bespoke under one roof. The10 off-the-peg suit brands include Canali and Calvin Klein. Moss Bespoke allows customers limitless customization of styling details such as signature embroidery, lining colours and construction. For business suits, Jaeger London Menswear’s latest range cuts a slim but refined block, tapering in at the waist to look trim and elegant. In an hour, Hackett will measure you, note your choice of cloth, linings and style, and also help choose your block. The result is a well-fitting and highly individual garment. The craftsmen at English Tailoring know that in the face of changing fashion, classic clothes will remain unchanged. The team delivers exceptional service and continues to maintain the traditions of a bygone era whilst incorporating their own unique style.
Hugo Boss
FOR WOMENSWEAR
Aquascutum in Cabot Place also offers a selection of womenswear. It may be an iconic British brand but this season Jaeger London Womenswear takes inspiration from modern, Parisian style icons, embodying a laid-back sophistication. For a sleek evening dress, get to the recently refurbished L.K.Bennett and hunt out their Letta Dress. Crafted from soft, supple leather, and with a simple, body-defining silhouette, the dress will stand you out from the crowd. Luxury lingerie boutique Myla encapsulates the many facets of femininity. Glamour, seduction and refined elegance are at the heart of what the company creates.
Aquascutum
SHOPPING
Hackett
FOR SHOES AND ACCESSORIES
When it comes to men’s shoes, nothing says quality and craftsmanship quite like a pair of Church’s. Taking up to eight weeks to produce, each pair undergoes over 250 detailed manual operations before they leave the factory. The store is being refurbished to provide additional space to house the vast offering of menswear, womenswear and accessories. Alfred Dunhill is a must-visit destination for gentlemen with the most sophisticated taste in accessories. For bespoke and personalised gifts, Aspinal of London’s wide range of products is guaranteed to bring a sense of style to any occasion. Tumi combines luxury travel, business and lifestyle into an award-winning line of luggage, business cases and handbags.
FOR WATCHES AND JEWELLERY
When you want to give a unique gift that lasts, luxury watches make a very special present and will be treasured for years. The experts at David M Robinson are on hand to help advise on the most intricate and aspirational timepieces on the market. Lovers of high-performance statement watches should visit Charles Fish which stocks Bell & Ross, Hublot and Zenith. Tiffany & Co. needs no introduction. Cross the threshold of Canary Wharf’s branch and it’s immediately apparent what’s in store: the highest level of design excellence, quality and craftsmanship. Pay a visit for gifts for memorable personal and family occasions. Montblanc in Canada Place offers exceptional quality in both its timepieces and jewellery ranges.
FOR BEAUTY
Beneath Jo Malone’s iconic cream and black livery, discover beautifully crafted fragrances of elegant simplicity, characterised by contemporary twists. The store now holds corporate events, handling everything from the venue, champagne and canapés to indulgent pampering treatments.
Gant
Molton Brown’s collection of unisex perfumes, bath and shower gels, candles and hand care products have claimed symbolic status with their bright colours and bold scents. Introduce yourself to their Limited Edition Capital Blends collection, blended in London for winning results. Come and revamp your wardrobe at the annual Canary Wharf Autumn / Winter Fashion Weekend. Between Friday 28 and Sunday 30 September, fashion shows in Canada Place and Jubilee Place will provide inspiration for the season ahead and many stores will be offering discounts* of up to 20 per cent. Canary Wharf Autumn / Winter Fashion Weekend Friday 28 - Sunday 30 September Throughout Shopping Malls Friday 9am - 8pm / Saturday 10am - 6pm / Sunday 12 - 6pm FREE
Tiffany & Co.
In addition to over 200 shops, cafes, bars and restaurants at weekends and on Bank Holidays you can enjoy 3 hours’ free parking in any of the public car parks when you spend £10 at any shop, café, bar or restaurant in Canary Wharf. For a full list of Cafes, Bars and restaurants check www.canarywharf.com. canarywharf.com
@yourcanarywharf
Your Health
in Your Hands When you lead a busy life, health matters can be pushed to the bottom of your priority list. In support of Blue September, we are urging busy men with unresolved health issues to visit their GP. The Wellington Hospital has an international reputation for excellence across the medical spectrum, including a private GP service.
020 7483 5004 www.thewellingtonhospital.com
The The MAYFAIR MAYFAIR Magazine Magazine agazine | Regulars | Beauty
Remembering
MAYFAIR S E L F R I D G E S , OXFORD STREET
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TOP: SELFRIDGES POST 1931; RIGHT: A FASHION SHOW TAKING PLACE ON THE SELFRIDGES ROOF IN THE 1920S
he good people of Mayfair have long been spoilt for choice when it comes to shopping. If it’s not Bond Street and its world-famous throng of fashion boutiques and fine-jewellery stores, the genteel lure of Savile Row or the buzz of Shepherd Market which continue to serve something for everyone. But just as big a draw to the Mayfair dweller with a cheque book and goodies to track down is Selfridges: everyone’s favourite reason to cross to the other side of Oxford Street since 1909. Famously established by Henry Gordon Selfridge who had already made his name as a cutting-edge retailer in Chicago and once declared that he was ‘prepared to sell anything from an aeroplane to a cigar.’ He also knew how to gain precious column inches in the papers, and his store was just the place to show off the aircraft in which celebrated Frenchman Louis Blériot had flown across the Channel the year the store opened. It was there for four days, and pulled in crowds of thousands. Shopping, suddenly, was exciting. In the 1920s and 1930s, the roof of the store was home to terraced gardens, a mini-golf course, cafés and even an all-girl gun club. The roof, with its incredible views across London, was a popular place for a stroll after a strenuous shopping excursion and was frequently used for fashion shows – think beautiful, exotic dresses, rising hemlines, close-fitting ‘flapper’ fashions all set to a background of the music of the era: jazz. Since day one, Selfridges has been stylish, its
window displays in particular offering a glimpse of the good life, although one of its most glitzy touches – bringing the beauty department to the ground floor entrance area – had more in common with smoke and mirrors than glamour. As historian Lindy Woodhead explained, the smell of scent was used to disguise the manure from horse-drawn buses and delivery vans. As Selfridges prospered, so did its founder, but a love of gambling and ladies were to be his undoing and lost him the store in the late 1930s. Under new management and with the War over, Selfridges bounced back – despite losing its roof gardens in the Blitz – and was right at the heart of the consumer spending boom of the 1950s. Everyone wanted a TV set for the coronation of Queen Elizabeth, and the electronics department of Selfridges – where John Logie Baird had demonstrated his ‘televisor’ a quarter of a century earlier – enjoyed especially brisk trade. Today, it is Selfridges’ seemingly endless fashion space that often leaves the biggest impression. Innovation remains right at the heart of the business, as evidenced in July when Karl Lagerfeld unveiled his Olympicinspired pop-up store right there on the third floor. 143
The
Mayfair concierge Some of the most interesting requests made to Mayfair’s most experienced concierges
FIX IT QUICK DRY CLEANERS/REPAIRS Buckingham Dry Cleaners 83 Duke Street, W1K 5PF 020 7499 1253
IT / TECH SUPPORT Mike Will Fix It 020 7564 7171 07762 647547
SHOES RE-HEELED James Taylor and Son 4 Paddington Street, W1U 5QE 020 7935 4149
WATCH REPAIR Marcus Watches 170 New Bond Street, W1S 4RB 020 7290 6500
LUXURY YACHTS Princess Yachts 64 Grosvenor Street, W1K 3JH 020 7499 5050
THAMES CRUISE City CruIses 020 7740 0400
LAND, SEA AND AIR CHARTER A HELICOPTER Avolus Ltd 5 Heliport House 38 Lombard Road, SW11 3RP 020 7978 6506 Emtjets 23 Berkeley Square, W1J 6HE 08453 888 248
ELECTRIC CARS The Electric Car Corporation 1st Floor, 5 Aldford Street, W1K 2AF 020 7495 5270 LUXURY CAR RENTAL Mayfair Prestige 0845 862 2142
RENT A ROLLS ROYCE Hanwells 86-91 Uxbridge Road W7 3ST 020 7436 2070
London River Cruises 020 7839 8008 Thames Dinner Cruises 0845 299 4127
LAST MINUTE BUSINESS AUDIO VISUAL HIRE AV2hire.com 020 3130 0401
INTERNATIONAL COURIER DHL 0844 248 0844
PRESTIGE TAXI Crown Security Chauffeurs 0800 731 5675
BUY / SELL SHARES Artemis 57 St James Street SW1A 1LD 020 7399 6000
Excel 020 7536 7170
London Prestige Chauffeur Service 020 7624 2632
Old Park Lane Capital 49 Berkeley Square, W1J 5AZ 020 7493 8188
FedEx 0845 607 0809
Sartoria This undeniably chic restaurant brings authentic Italian flavours, Milanese-inspired interiors and a touch of London style to its equally stylish clientele. 20 Savile Row, W1S 3PR 020 7534 7000
LOCAL COURIER City Sprint 0844 888 4111
PRIVATE DINING ROOM Corrigans 28 Upper Grosvenor Street W1K 7EH 020 7499 9943
TRANSLATOR Central Translations 21 Woodstock Grove, W12 8TX 020 7493 5511
DENTIST Aqua Dental Spa 25 Manchester Square, W1U 3PY 020 7935 5332
DOCTOR Lees Place Medical Centre 11 Lees Place, W1K 6LN 020 7036 6060
FLORIST Paul Thomas Flowers 4 Shepherd Street, W1J 7JD 020 7499 6889
The Mayfair Dental Practice 71 Park Street, W1K 7HN 020 7499 2168
The Mayfair Medical Centre 3 - 5 Weighhouse Street, W1K 5LS 020 7493 1647
Wild Things of Mayfair 47 Davies Street, W1K 4LY 020 7495 3030
LIFE SAVERS BABY SITTER Rockabye Babysitters A boutique babysitting service offering experienced, friendly educated babysitters. Excellent childcare at reasonable rates. 9 Wimpole Street, W1G 9SR 020 7624 0060 144
The MAYFAIR Magazine | Regulars
LAST MINUTE GIFTS Halcyon Days 14 Brook Street, W1S 1BD 0844 880 8210
PERSONAL CHEF Galor Personal Chef 020 7371 4076 contact@galor.co.uk
PERSONAL SHOPPER Gabrielle Teare 0798 531 9300 info@gabrielleteare.com
STATIONERY PRINTER City Images 8 Avery Row, W1K 4AL 020 7495 0421
CASINO The Palm Beach Casino 30 Berkeley Street, W1J 8EH 020 7493 6585
LATE NIGHT FOOD Hakkasan 17 Bruton Street, W1J 6QB 020 7907 1888
MEMBERS’ CLUBS
PARTY PLANNER Concorde Media 020 7297 3344
FANCY DRESS Pantaloons 020 7630 8330 www.pantaloons.co.uk
Freggo Ice-cream Bar 27-29 Swallow Street W1B 4QR 020 7287 9506
PARTY TIME Maddox Club A boutique sanctuary in which to party, with a DJ booth within a restaurant, successfully creating a venue, where partying and dining co-exist under one roof. 3-5 Mill Street, W1S 2AU 020 7629 8877
G&D Events 020 7682 2682 Henry Bonas 020 3214 2099
RECHARGE AND RECUPERATE DOG GROOMING Mayfair Mutts Upper Brook Street, W1 020 7409 7739 mayfairmutts@hotmail.co.uk MASSAGES Mayfair Spa - The Mayfair Hotel Stratton Street, W1J 8LT 020 7915 2826
Michael John Boutique 25 Albemarle Street W1S 4HU 020 7629 6969
SPA & BEAUTY Elizabeth Arden Red Door Spa 29 Davies Street, W1K 4LW 0870 787 6626
MEN’S HAIR Atherton Cox 18 New Cavendish Street, W1G 8UR 020 7487 4048
WOMEN’S HAIR Janet Ginnings Hair and Beauty Salon 45 Curzon Street W1J 7UQ 020 7499 1904
Sassoon Salon Sassoon believe great hair design begins with the client, and create sophisticated looks that are technically precise and effortlessly chic and that are easy to recreate day after day. 60 South Molton Street, W1K 5SW 020 7491 8848
SAMPLE THE FINEST BACKGAMMON BOARD Aspinal of London 0845 052 6900 CAVIAR Caviar House & Prunier 161 Piccadilly, W1J 9EA 0871 961 9577 CHEESE La Fromagerie 2-6 Moxon Street W1U 4EW 020 7935 0341
CHOCOLATES Rococo Chocolates 45 Marylebone High St, W1U 5HG 020 7935 7780
HUMIDORS Linley 46 Albemarle Street, W1S 4JN 020 7290 1410
LUXURY LIQUOR Gerry’s Wines & Spirits
CIGARS Sautter of Mount Street 106 Mount Street, W1K 2TW 020 7499 4866
HOT CHOCOLATE Ladurée 71-72 Burlington Arcade, W1J 0QX 020 7491 9155
FINE WINE Jeroboams 20 Davies Street, W1K 3DT 020 7499 1015
LUXURY HAMPER Fortnum & Mason 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER 020 7734 8040
The Vintage Watch Co. 24 Burlington Arcade, W1J 0PS 020 7499 2032
RENT A DOUBLE DECKER BUS London Heritage Travel 01353 863273 This Bus.com 0845 4652 394
SHOTGUN REPAIRS James Purdey & Sons Ltd 57-58 South Audley Street W1K 2ED 020 7499 1801
74 Old Compton Street, W1D 4UW 020 7734 2053 VINTAGE WATCHES David Duggan 63 Burlington Arcade, WIJ 0QS 020 7491 1675
WEIRD AND WONDERFUL BESPOKE PERFUMES Miller Harris 21 Bruton Street, W1J 6QD 020 7629 7750
DIAMONDS VALUED Armour Winston 43 Burlington Arcade, W1J 0QQ 020 7493 8937
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Property | The MAYFAIR Magazine
Mayfair estate agents Paddington & Bayswater Sales & Lettings BEAUCHAMP ESTATES 24 Curzon Street, W1J 7TF 020 7499 7722 www.beauchamp.co.uk
4C Praed Street, W2 1JX 020 7717 5473 (sales) 020 7717 5343 (lettings)
Pimlico & Westminster Sales
JOHN D WOOD
Belgravia
48 Elizabeth Street, SW1W 9PA 020 7824 7900 www.johndwood.co.uk
50 Belgrave Road, SW1V 1RQ 020 7834 4771 www.hamptons-int.com
SAVILLS
Knightsbridge Sales 188 Brompton Road, SW3 1HQ 020 7581 5234
Mayfair Sales & Lettings KAYE & CAREY
CHESTERTON HUMBERTS
Knightsbridge
Mayfair
47 South Audley Street, W1K 2QA 020 7629 4513 (sales) 020 7288 8301 (lettings)
HARRODS ESTATES
Knightsbridge
Westminster & Pimlico
82 Brompton Road, SW3 1ER 020 7225 6506
10 Gillingham Street, SW1V 1HJ 020 3040 8201 (SALES) www.chestertonhumberts.com
61 Park Lane, W1K 1QF 020 7409 9001 www.harrodsestates.com
4 Yeoman’s Row, SW3 2AH 020 7590 0066 www.kayeandcarey.co.uk
Marylebone Sales
119 Park Lane, W1K 7AG 020 7079 1523 www.fineandcountry.com
139 Sloane Street, SW1X 9AY 020 7730 0822 www.savills.co.uk
KNIGHT FRANK
55 Baker Street, W1U 8AN 020 7871 5060
Mayfair
Sloane Street Sales & Lettings
Mayfair
Hyde Park Sales
FINE & COUNTRY
36 North Audley Street, W1K 6ZJ 020 7578 5100
HOME HOUSE ESTATES 21 Woodstock Street, W1C 2AP 020 7493 1911 www.homehouseestates.co.uk
120a Mount Street, W1K 3NN 020 7483 8349
Mayfair Sales & Lettings
LONDON SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY 26A Conduit Street, W1S 2XY 020 7495 9580 www.sothebysrealty.com
120a Mount Street, W1K 3NN 020 7499 1012 www.knightfrank.co.uk
STRUTT & PARKER
London Head Office HAMPTONS INTERNATIONAL
Chelsea Lettings 134 Fulham Road, SW10 9PY 020 7717 5433
HORNE & HARVEY 23A St James’s Street, SW1A 1HA 020 7839 6006 www.horneandharvey.co.uk
PLAZA ESTATES
13 Hill Street, W1J 5LQ 020 7629 7282
Marble Arch
Knightsbridge
29-31 Edgware Road, W2 2JE 020 7724 3100 www.plazaestates.co.uk
66 Sloane Street, SW1X 9SH 020 7235 9959 www.struttandparker.com
W.A. ELLIS 174 Brompton Road, SW3 1HP 020 7306 1600 www.waellis.co.uk
Knightsbridge Lettings 168 Brompton Road, SW3 1HW 020 7717 5463
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Mayfair Sales & Lettings
JACKSON STOPS
PROPRIUM
32 Grosvenor Square, W1K 2HJ 020 7717 5465 (sales) 020 7717 5467 (lettings)
17C Curzon Street, W1J 5HU 020 7664 6644 www.jackson-stops.co.uk
149 Sloane Street, SW1X 9BZ 020 7589 6298 www.proprium.co.uk
Mayfair Sales
Sloane Street
For Estate Agent Listings please contact Fiona Fenwick at: f.fenwick@runwildgroup.co.uk
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FOR SALE
FOR SALE
FOR SALE
The Little Boltons, Chelsea SW10
Eagle Place, South Kensington SW7
Onslow Gardens, South Kensington SW7
Guide price: £1,650,000
Guide price: £2,500,000
Guide price: £4,950,000
FOR SALE
FOR SALE
Eaton Square, Belgravia SW1
Brook Street, Mayfair W1
Guide price: £4,950,000
Guide price: £5,500,000
LOCATION MATTERS. WE UNDERSTAND. FOR SALE
Find out why our clients chose Knight Frank KnightFrank.co.uk/FranklySpeaking
Mount Street, Mayfair W1
Knightsbridge, SW7
Guide price: £7,000,000
FOR SALE
Cadogan Gardens, Knightsbridge SW3 Guide price: £9,950,000
FOR SALE Guide price: £7,500,000
FOR SALE
FOR SALE
Chelsea Park Gardens, Chelsea SW3
Park Lane, Mayfair W1
Guide price: £11,250,000
Guide price: £19,500,000
KnightFrank.co.uk/Mayfair Mayfair Sales 020 7499 1012 120a Mount Street, London W1K 3NN
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Knight Frank Why use Knight Frank?
556K 245 SOLD
SOLD
Ives Street, Knightsbridge SW3
Grosvenor Square, Mayfair W1
Guide price: £925,000
Guide price: £1,200,000
SOLD
Bramham Gardens, Earls Court SW5
Eaton Place, Belgravia SW1
Guide price: £1,395,000
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Applicants are looking for a new home to buy or rent in London
Mayfair Sales 120a Mount Street, London W1K 3NN 020 7499 1012 KnightFrank.co.uk/Mayfair
Guide price: £1,950,000
Knightsbridge Sales 60 Sloane Avenue, London SW3 3DD 020 7591 8600 KnightFrank.co.uk/Knightsbridge
SOLD
SOLD
Cleveland Row, St James’s SW1
Chester Street, Belgravia SW1
Guide price: £3,600,000
Belgravia Sales 82/83 Chester Square, London SW1W 9HJ 020 7881 7722 KnightFrank.co.uk/Belgravia
Guide price: £4,650,000
Chelsea Sales 352a King’s Road, London SW3 5UU 020 7349 4300 KnightFrank.co.uk/Chelsea South Kensington Sales 157 Gloucester Road, London SW7 4TH 020 7871 4111 KnightFrank.co.uk/South-Kensington SOLD
SOLD
Albert Court, Knightsbridge SW7
Arlington Street, St James’s SW1
Guide price: £8,000,000 Sarah Matthews Negotiator Mayfair
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Harvey Cyzer Office Head Mayfair
Guide price: £15,000,000 Eliza Leigh Regional Head Knightsbridge
Stuart Bailey Office Head Belgravia
James Pace Office Head Chelsea
John Kennedy Partner South Kensington
10/08/2012 10:03
Knight Frank
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Leinster Gardens, Hyde Park W2 Elegant family home
An exceptional Grade II listed white stucco fronted house that has been fully restored to the highest specification combining contemporary style with period features. 7 bedrooms, 5 bathrooms, dual aspect drawing room, dining room, media room, family room, kitchen, study area, cloakroom, balconies. Approximatley 542 sq m (5,834 sq ft) Freehold Guide price: £9,000,000 (HPE120029)
KnightFrank.co.uk/HydePark hydepark@knightfrank.com 020 3544 6140
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Knight Frank Kean Street, Covent Garden WC2 Outstanding views
A modern duplex apartment in the heart of the West End. 2 bedrooms, 2 en suite bathrooms, open-plan reception room/kitchen, utility room, guest WC, lift and large balcony overlooking the city’s iconic skyline. Approximately 149 sq m (1,604 sq ft) Available furnished
Guide price: £1,600 per week
Mayfair Lettings KnightFrank.co.uk/Lettings mayfairlettings@knightfrank.com 020 7499 1012
(150301)
Curzon Square, Mayfair W1J Classic pied a terre
A traditional Mayfair property comprising 2 double bedrooms, 2 bathrooms (one en suite), reception room with decorative alcoves and feature fireplace, kitchen. Approximately 97 sq m (1,044 sq ft) Available furnished
Guide price: £1, 650 per week
Mayfair Lettings KnightFrank.co.uk/Lettings mayfairlettings@knightfrank.com 020 7499 1012
(166833)
Knight Frank Green Street, Mayfair W1K
Impeccable duplex A light, split level apartment with high ceilings and period features presented in excellent condition. 3 double bedrooms, 3 bathrooms (2 en suite), reception/dining room leading onto balcony, and modern eat-in kitchen. Approximately 126 sq m (1,361 sq ft) Available furnished
Guide price: £2,250 per week
Mayfair Lettings KnightFrank.co.uk/Lettings mayfairlettings@knightfrank.com 020 7499 1012
(142213)
Dunraven Street, Mayfair W1K
Elegance and gardens A beautifully finished duplex apartment with private courtyard garden and access to Green Street’s secret garden. 3 double bedrooms, 3 en suite bathrooms, reception room with wooden flooring, eat-in kitchen, guest WC, utility room and terrace. Approximately 167 sq m (1,797 sq ft) Available unfurnished
Guide price: £2,500 per week
Mayfair Lettings KnightFrank.co.uk/Lettings mayfairlettings@knightfrank.com 020 7499 1012 (128182)
Urban
SANCTUARY Tucked away in the luxurious and private streets of Belgravia, this Wilton Street townhouse fuses contemporary design with tradition
154
The MAYFAIR Magazine | Property
I
n the prestigious Wilton Place of Belgravia, a newly refurbished five-storey townhouse is something of an inner-city escape in the guise of a home. When architecture and interior design company Lawson Robb signed on to revamp the townhouse, it was in dire need of a facelift. The space has been completely remodelled into a state-of-the-art property after a ÂŁ2,750,000 makeover, complete with a wellness centre with a barrel-vault ceiling, sauna, steam room, plunge pool and rain shower. And if you still need more to relax, there is also a jacuzzi, gym, bespoke wine cellar and home cinema to complete the experience.
‘This property is both a main home base and your own private haven, with three bedrooms within 3,800 sq ft’ Designed with the finest materials, including limestone, hand-chiselled stone and accents of teak throughout; this property is both a main home base and your own private haven, with three bedrooms within 3,800 sq ft. Although the property is new on the inside, inspiration was drawn from the prior structure of the Grade II listed townhouse. All remodelling and extension work was strategically and sympathetically designed to work with the existing character and features throughout to ensure compliance with Listed Building, Planning and Grosvenor Estates. The project strikes a fine balance between the heritage of Belgravia and contemporary living quarters in one property. For further enquiries contact Alanna Burns, (020 7351 9383; www.lawsonrobb.com) 155
this month’s
Mayfair Home to buy
r at i n g c e l e b2012
MOUNT STREET w1k
£3,450,000 long lease
A rare opportunity to acquire a Mayfair apartment of distinction with views over Mount Street Gardens. The property has been refurbished to a high specification & comprises a south facing reception/dining room, luxury kitchen, master bedroom with en-suite bathroom, 2nd double bedroom & a shower room.
Mayfair Sales
020 7629 4513
•
sales.mayfair@chestertonhumberts.com
chestertonhumberts.com
NORTH ROW w1k
PARK STREET w1k
£6,500,000 long lease
A stunning & recently refurbished high specification triple aspect penthouse apartment with an extensive wrap around balcony & views over Hyde Park & Park Lane, 3 bedroom, lift & 24hr porterage.
£2,750,000 leasehold
A rare opportunity to acquire & refurbish a prestigious 6th floor 2 double bedroom, 2 bathroom Mayfair apartment with views over Mount Street. Benefits include a lift & uniformed porters.
Mayfair Sales
020 7629 4513
•
sales.mayfair@chestertonhumberts.com
HILL STREET w1j
HERTFORD STREET w1j
£2,495,000 leasehold
A 1st floor apartment of approx. 1,550 sq ft, situated close to Berkeley Square & Park Lane. Comprising a double reception room, luxury kitchen, 3 double bedrooms with en-suites, porter & lift.
£1,395,000 long lease
A delightful double aspect apartment set within a well established Art Deco portered block, offering a reception/dining room, kitchen, 2 bedrooms (1 with en suite), shower room, lift & porter.
Mayfair Sales
020 7629 4513
•
sales.mayfair@chestertonhumberts.com
chestertonhumberts.com
this month’s
Mayfair Home to rent
r at i n g c e l e b2012
DUNRAVEN STREET w1k
£2,500 per week
A stunning 3 bedroom duplex apartment of approx.1,797 sq ft, situated in the heart of Mayfair with direct access to Green Street Gardens. Comprising a reception room, kitchen/dining room, master bedroom with dressing area & en-suite, 2 further bedrooms with 2 en-suites, a guest cloakroom, balcony & private courtyard.
Mayfair Lettings
020 7288 8301
•
lettings.mayfair@chestertonhumberts.com
chestertonhumberts.com
PARK STREET w1k
NORTH AUDLEY STREET w1k
£2,500 per week
An immaculate 3 bedroom lateral apartment of approx. 2,368 sq ft. Offering delightful views over the Green Street Gardens & 2 spacious reception rooms. Other benefits Include comfort cooling & a porter.
£1,950 per week
A truly impressive 2 bedroom lateral apartment of approx. 1,518 sq ft. Conveniently located close to Oxford Street & benefiting from wood flooring, high ceilings & comfort cooling in the principal rooms.
Mayfair Lettings
020 7288 8301 • lettings.mayfair@chestertonhumberts.com
GREEN STREET w1k
MOUNT ROW w1k
£1,250 per week
A beautiful, interior designed 2 bedroom garden level apartment of approx. 1,249 sq ft. Benefiting from wood flooring, a private patio & direct lift access into the property. Green Street is ideally located close to Hyde Park.
£925 per week
A charming 2 bedroom apartment in a quiet location close to Berkeley Square. Comprising approx. 810 sq ft of living space & benefiting from wood flooring & a spacious kitchen.
Mayfair Lettings
020 7288 8301
•
lettings.mayfair@chestertonhumberts.com
chestertonhumberts.com
Clarges Street, Mayfair W1 A fifth floor penthouse apartment with roof terrace and conservatory. Double reception/dining room • Kitchen • Cloakroom • Master bedroom with en-suite • Two guest bedrooms • Conservatory • Terrace • Lift • Porter Underground parking • Approximately 2,188 sq ft / 203 sq m
020 7495 9580
svetlana.shcholokova@sothebysrealty.co.uk
Guide Price: £5,400,000 Leasehold with approximately 95 years remaining
Over 600 Offices in 46 Countries
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Hyde Park Street, Hyde Park W2 A seven bedroom house perfect for entertaining on a grand scale. Reception room • Drawing room • Dining room • Music room 020 7495 9580 svetlana.shcholokova@sothebysrealty.co.uk Billiard room • Kitchen • Study • Seven bedrooms • Three bathrooms Shower room • WC • Nursery • Double height conservatory • Terrace Garden • Close to Marble Arch • Views over Hyde Park • Approximately 4,659 sq ft / 432 sq m
Guide Price: £7,350,000 Freehold
Over 600 Offices in 46 Countries
14:37
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Wimpole Street, Marylebone W1 A stylish triplex apartment situated in a fine Georgian building. Kitchen/dining area • First floor lateral double reception room • Two bedrooms Two en-suite bathrooms • Media room/third bedroom • Balcony • Sauna Sunken Jacuzzi • Approximately 2,783 sq ft / 258 sq m
020 7495 9580
svetlana.shcholokova@sothebysrealty.co.uk
Guide Price: £3,950,000 Leasehold with approximately 108 years remaining
Over 600 Offices in 46 Countries
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Chesterfield Street, Mayfair W1 An historical house in Mayfair. Reception room • Dining room with conservatory • Kitchen • Three bedroom suites, each with a dressing room and bathroom • Two further bedrooms • One further bathroom • Study • Roof terrace • Patio Approximately 3,802 sq ft / 353.2 sq m
020 7495 9580
svetlana.shcholokova@sothebysrealty.co.uk
Guide Price: £8,950,000 Freehold
Over 600 Offices in 46 Countries
15:17
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Hamptons Mayfair
020 7717 5465 mayfair@hamptons-int.com
Riding House Street, W1 A charming freehold property with immense potential in a prime Fitzrovia location. Currently arranged as an upper maisonette in excellent condition, with the ground and lower ground floors licenced as commercial. The potential of this freehold lies in utilising the loft and the lower floors (subject to the necessary consents). Hamptons Mayfair 020 7717 5465 mayfair@hamptons-int.com
ÂŁ2,750,000 Freehold Three reception rooms Kitchen Bedroom Bathroom Garden
Hamptons Pimlico & Westminster
0203 281 7214 pimwest@hamptons-int.com
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Westminster Palace Gardens, London, SW1P A fantastic two bedroom period mansion flat in the heart of Westminster. The apartment has been refurbished to an extremely high specification, benefits from well proportioned rooms, high ceilings and lift. Conveniently positioned for transport at Victoria and the exceptional shopping available along Victoria Street. Hamptons Pimlico & Westminster 0203 281 7214 pimwest@hamptons-int.com
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ÂŁ1,275,000 Leasehold Two Bedrooms Two Bathrooms 1205 Approx Sq ft. Porter/Caretaker Fifth Floor Photos are Computer Generated Images
Hamptons Mayfair
020 7717 5467 mayfairlettings@hamptons-int.com
Hill Street, W1 A stunning apartment in the heart of Mayfair with a plethora of period features. There is excellent reception space with fantastic ceiling height and access onto the pretty terrace. This property is completely unique and will suit a couple looking to experience the grandeur of Mayfair. Hamptons Mayfair Lettings 020 7717 5467 mayfairlettings@hamptons-int.com
ÂŁ2,650 pw Furnished/Unfurnished Reception room Kitchen Two bedrooms Two bathrooms Swimming Pool Terrace
The MAYFAIR Magazine | Property
THE STREETS OF
MAYFAIR
As new luxury shops and period conversions appear in London’s most fashionable destination, it seems that Mayfair has truly left its rivals behind, reports property expert Simon Barnes
T
TOP: MOUNT STREET; BELOW: MOUNT STREET AND SAVILE ROW
he great thing about Mayfair property is how dramatically one home differs from the next. Whereas in Belgravia and Knightsbridge certain streets are known for being home to London’s most exclusive properties, here you get isolated examples of individual prestigious homes. Some of the most beautiful and interesting houses can be found on Charles Street, at the top of Upper Grosvenor Street and on Upper Brook Street. Houses here tend to be wide and many will still have the adjoining mews houses. Those that do are in high demand and command premium prices. Small but perfectly formed Balfour Place is something of a hidden gem, as is Aldford Street – on these you can find some of Mayfair’s most coveted homes. For flats, Grosvenor Square is the best address, although there are several individual blocks elsewhere where you can find desirable apartments - Brook House on Park Lane for example and Davies Street. Mount Street is now one of the best streets in Mayfair, although the majority of houses
at the lower end do not have garages. The flats on Mount Street tend to be in period conversions, so may be smaller, often without porters and lifts. However, the location usually makes up for this. Mount Street has been subject to a complete facelift in recent years, and has seen more up market shops, cafés and restaurants arrive. Mayfair seems to be in a constant state of transition, and one of the major changes over the past 10 - 15 years is the conversion of buildings from commercial back to residential. The post-war, struggle to afford the upkeep of such large houses, meant many substantial homes were turned into offices, hotels and embassies. Now, as demand for larger, single houses has increased, Mayfair excels itself by offering properties that are generally larger than those within the borders of its main rival - Belgravia. A combination of the investment banks and hedge funds based in the area, as well as the new shops and eateries, has helped the area shake off its stuffier image and draw in a younger crowd. Mayfair has long been regarded as one of, if not the best residential locations in London. But over the years, the face of Mayfair has changed, and whilst its appeal is as strong as ever, it is good to see it appealing to wider range. Looking forward, the redevelopment of Grosvenor Square and the old American embassy, which will undoubtedly be of the highest specification and of a size to rival One Hyde Park, will surely re-establish Mayfair’s position as a number one prime destination in London. (www.simonbarnes.com)
‘Small but perfectly formed Balfour Place is something of a hidden gem, as is Aldford Street’
167
HOT PROPERTY
King Street, St James SW1
C
ontemporary luxury design meets incredible heritage in this unique Grade II listed building in King Street, St James. This elegant 3,475 sq ft apartment has been recently refurbished with the finest attention to detail: from the beautiful drawing room to the dining room with its exquisite marble fireplace. There is a spacious master bedroom suite with a luxury bathroom, a bespoke dressing room and two further bedroom suites, in addition to a library, lit naturally via a truly stunning skylight; all of which conspire to make this an ideal home amongst the luxury centre of London. Adjacent to Pall Mall, King Street is ideally located, within close proximity of the lush St James Square and the luxury shopping of Jermyn Street. King Street, St James’s, SW1 £7,250,000, share of Freehold.
Joint sole agents: Sotheby’s: 020 7495 9580 (www.sothebysrealty.co.uk) Hamptons: 020 7758 8440 (www.hamptons-int.com) 170
The MAYFAIR Magazine | Property
‘A spacious master bedroom suite with a luxury bathroom…’
171
Park Lane, Mayfair, W1 Such a truly unique apartment, at this level of sophistication and cutting edge style in one of Central London’s most prestigious and desirable locations, rarely becomes available. Setting a benchmark standard of interior design, no expense has been spared to combine superb elegance with state-ofthe-art technology using the very best in bespoke interiors. Leasehold approximately 122 years remaining £7,750,000 020 7409 9047 robert.cox@harrodsestates.com
kniGHTSBriDGe OffiCe: 82 BrOMPTOn rOaD LOnDOn SW3 1er T: +44 020 7225 6506 Mayfair OffiCe: 61 Park Lane LOnDOn W1k 1Qf T: +44 020 7409 9001
HarrODSeSTaTeS.COM
Hyde Park Place, Hyde Park, W2 A stunning third floor apartment (with lift) in this secure period building, benefitting from far reaching views across Hyde Park.The property is located moments from Marble Arch and the amenities of Oxford Street. Accommodation comprises entrance hallway, double reception/dining room with balcony, two double bedrooms (both en suite), fully fitted kitchen with Bosch appliances, and guest`s cloakroom. ÂŁ1200 pw 020 7409 9158 robin.boghhenrikssen@harrodsestates.com
kNIGHTSBrIdGe OFFIce: 82 BrOMPTON rOad lONdON SW3 1er T: +44 020 7225 6506 MayFaIr OFFIce: 61 Park laNe lONdON W1k 1QF T: +44 020 7409 9001
HarrOdSeSTaTeS.cOM
WHITEHALL COURT A beautifully presented three bedroom apartment of over 3500 sq ft in this sought after portered mansion block. This elegant apartment has been tastefully decorated boasting many period features, high ceilings and lots of natural light.
Leasehold
£7.5 million
ESSEX COURT
WHITEHALL COURT
A beautiful fourth and fifth floor penthouse apartment with undemised south facing terrace, a large reception room and three bedrooms in an exclusive secure location in the heart of St James’s and close to the park.
A spacious one bedroom apartment on the 3rd floor of this impressive Victorian mansion block. This property has been recently refurbished to a high standard with modern kitchen, wooden floors throughout, high ceilings and an abundance of natural light.
Leasehold
Leasehold
020 7839 6006
£1.95 million
23a St James’s Street, London, SW1A 1HA
£1.5 million
Horne & Harvey Est. 1803
WHITEHALL COURT Stunning three-bedroom apartment over looking the river Thames. This property has recently been refurbished to a high standard boasting high ceilings, wooden floors and stone balconies. The apartment is on the second floor in the main block of Whitehall Court.
Furnished
£2,500 per week
CATHERINE WHEEL YARD
CAVENDISH BUILDINGS
A lovely two bedroom house located in a quiet secluded area in the heart of St James’s. Finished to a high standard offering a bright and spacious reception room, separate dining room, modern kitchen, two double bedrooms, two bathrooms and a beautiful private terrace and conservatory.
A charming and spacious one bedroom apartment, newly refurbished to a high standard. Boasting wooden floors an abundance of natural light and fully fitted modern kitchen this apartment is located just minutes from Oxford Street, Bond Street Tube station and the attractions of the west end.
Furnished
Furnished
£1,200 per week
£575 per week
www.horneandharvey.co.uk
Chelsea Fulham & Parsons Green Kensington & Holland Park Knightsbridge, Belgravia & Mayfair Notting Hill & Bayswater West Chelsea & South Kensington
Sales 020 7225 3866 Sales 020 7731 7100 Sales 020 7938 3666 Sales 020 7235 9959 Sales 020 7221 1111 Sales 020 7373 1010
Lettings 020 7589 9966 Lettings 020 7731 7100 Lettings 020 7938 3866 Lettings 020 7235 9959 Lettings 020 7221 1111 Lettings 020 7373 1010
City Office Professional Valuations UK Commercial & Residential Residential Investment Property Management
020 7600 3456 020 7318 5039 020 7629 7282 020 7318 5196 020 7052 9417
struttandparker.com
South Street | Mayfair | W1 1,466 sq ft (136.2 sq m)
Quietly located in this prestigious period building, this two bedroom flat offers ample reception space overlooking the Mount Street gardens. Entrance hall | Reception room | Kitchen | Master bedroom with en-suite | Second bedroom Second bathroom | Utility room | Storage room | 24 hour porterage Asking price ÂŁ1,500,000 Share of Freehold
Knightsbridge 020 7235 9959
Scan this QR code with your camera phone to read more about this property. Free QR code readers are available to download from our website at struttandparker.com/qrcode
Dover Street | Mayfair | W1 725 sq ft (67 sq m)
A lovely two bedroom flat situated on the fourth floor of this new residential building located just north of Piccadilly, close to The Ritz and Green Park. Reception room | Kitchen | Master bedroom with en suite shower room | Double bedroom Bathroom | Porter | Lift ÂŁ895 per week, Unfurnished
Knightsbridge 020 7235 9959
Scan this QR code with your camera phone to read more about this property. Free QR code readers are available to download from our website at struttandparker.com/qrcode
Property | The MAYFAIR Magazine
The MAYFAIR INSIDER
Property news
From the latest property to new developments, we bring you the places to watch in Mayfair this month
Walpole Mayfair This development comprises five apartments on Arlington Street, and dates back to 1676, where Britain’s first and longest serving Prime Minister Sir Robert Walpole lived with his son Horace. Opposite The Ritz and next to The Wolseley, the Grade II heritage listed building has been designed by awardwinning architect Oliver Burns. Currently for sale is Number 4, the most contemporary in design bringing a touch of Manhattan to Mayfair. For enquiries contact Harvey Cyzer at Knight Frank Mayfair. (020 7499 1012; www.knightfrank.co.uk)
Albany mansions Albany has been home to a cast of famous literati including famed English wordsmiths Aldous Huxley and Georgette Heyer. Designed by William Chambers – also the architect of Somerset House – the mansions are set back from the busy grind of Piccadilly, where a luxury two bedroom apartment is on the market for rental. £1,400 per week (minimum eight year lease term). For enquiries, contact Kate Townrow at Knight Frank Mayfair. (020 7499 1012; www.knightfrank.co.uk)
Native land 30 Old Burlington Street will see a new set of luxury apartments in 2016, with all of the amenities one would expect in Mayfair. Part of the prestigious Pollen Estate luxury quarter, the development will have its own art gallery and a restaurant on the ground floor, and will be located just a stone’s throw away from the shopping of Bond Street, the fine art galleries of Cork Street and the bespoke tailors of Savile Row. Native Land is developing the site in a joint venture with Hotel Properties Ltd and Amcorp Properties Berhad. (www.native-land.com) 178
SIMON BARNES
When somewhere can namedrop the way Mayfair can, you know it’s the place to be and be seen. People still mistake Mayfair for being home to stuffy gentleman’s clubs serving the wealth of a bygone era – unjustly so, for this is one prime postcode that has reinvented itself more than any other. Following a spate of new refurbishments and ownership changes at its most prestigious hotels, clubs and eateries, as well as exciting new openings, there’s no doubt Mayfair is fast carving out a more current, sophisticated image for itself. Take the Arts Club on Dover Street – it may date back to the 19th Century and have entertained such figures as Dickens, Whistler and Rodin, but following a complete facelift in 2011, today it is considered the private club to have membership, attracting creative connoisseurs of art, music and literature. Earlier this year, Robin Birley opened exclusive club 5 Hertford Street, following a £20m refurbishment of five 18th Century buildings between Curzon Street and Shepherd Market. Caring’s empire continues to grow, of course, with the opening of upmarket restaurants Scotts and 34, following his acquisition of Mayfair’s most renowned nightclub, Annabel’s. Catering for the international crowd is Nobu Berkeley Square and the new Novikov restaurant, as well as the May Fair hotel, and the recently renovated Connaught Hotel on the corner of Mount Street. Far from ‘stuffy’, in Mayfair these days you are just as likely to find film stars and trendy musicians as aristocrats and English eccentrics and as such, it remains one of London’s most sought after addresses in which to live, work, eat and play. (www.simonbarnes.com)
SOUTHWICK STREET, HYDE PARK, W2 Brand newly refurbished two bedroom apartment, decorated and furnished to an excellent standard, on the first floor of this prestigious purpose built block with elegant common parts and lovely communal gardens. The property is centrally located on the Hyde Park Estate within easy walking distance of Marble Arch and Paddington Station. 2 Bedrooms, Bathroom, Reception Room, Kitchen, Lift, Porter, Communal Gardens.
ÂŁ 700.00 PER WEEK MARblE ARCH: 29-31 EDgWARE ROAD lOnDOn W2 2JE 020 7724 3100
Property | The MAYFAIR Magazine
A VOICE FROM THE COUNTRY
The Shape of the Nation >3:00
2:30
2:00
York
Liverpool
Norwich
Crewe
1:30
Grantham
Birmingham Worcester Ipswich
Stafford Banbury
Evesham
Peterborough
Kingham Bicester
Milton Keynes
1:00 Colchester
Oxford
Didcot
Bath Spa
Bristol
Cardiff
LONDON
Basingstoke Andover Salisbury
Southampton
Sherborne Bournemouth
Southend
Thorpe Bay
Borough Green & Wrotham
Winchester
Brighton
Shoeburyness
Maidstone
Ashford International Dover
Wareham
O
nce in a blue moon there will be a country house buyer who wants to get away from the City and never go back. For the vast majority, however, the first action will be to set an acceptable commuting distance from London. Getting the protractor out and drawing a couple of concentric circles around London will give you a rough idea of which areas are within reach. But the map appears a little different when you look closer at journey times, train timetables and, of course, available properties and prices. Take Andover and Bath, for example. The former is typically regarded as an acceptable commute, the latter as being more of a weekend destination. The 06.26 from Andover, which pulls into Waterloo 73 minutes later, is fairly packed with classic country-property owners heading into the City for a day’s trading. Property in and around Bath carries a premium, for sure; but the level of research that Middleton typically undertakes reveals that Bath Spa railway station is in the throes of a huge refurbishment, with more parking, improved access and some wonderful eateries opening up on the new concourse. With a journey time of 90 minutes to Paddington, Bath is a little further, but it also has a much broader range of property types than its Hampshire rival. Another example: the Middleton map puts York in the same band as Bristol for commuting, despite the fact that, as the crow flies, it’s 210 miles compared to 120. These days, though, for the country commuter the speed at which the train flies through the countryside may be of secondary importance to the rate at which data travels through 180
‘York is in the same band as Bristol for commuting, despite the fact that, as the crow flies, it’s 210 miles compared to 120’ the ether. Once you’re on the train, settled in your seat and using your time productively, you may even find that the First Class compartment represents an extension of your office – comfortable, quiet, nicely connected, and with the added bonus of no possibility of being drawn into a meeting you’d been assured you wouldn’t need to attend. An old friend commutes 2.5 hours each way from Tiverton to London every day. He’d have had to find another £1.5m to purchase a comparable property in Hampshire. That cash buys a lot of laptop, a nice breakfast and plenty of cappuccinos to help the journey by. In fact, his work-while-you-travel patterns are so finely-tuned he says he’s tempted to get on the train sometimes, even if he doesn’t need to be in London. The urge to get out of town hits everyone at some point. Next time you feel it, make sure you look at the map with a different perspective. It’s downloadable from our website. Of course, the map will change shape again in the next few years. Infrastructure projects such as Crossrail and HighSpeed2 have the potential to transform journey times and bring new areas of the country into the commuter belt. Tom Hudson Middleton Advisors act on behalf of private clients looking to purchase country houses and estates in the UK (01235 436 271, www.middletonadvisors.com)
the smart way to
or SELL
BUY
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A service defined by discretion and dedication that will save you time and money. His extensive experience in property consultancy takes the pain and effort out of the buying and selling process, and any problems that you would usually encounter, become his problems and not yours.
work smarter, not harder. T: 020 7499 3434 M: 078 3146 5414 E: simon@simonbarnes.com
www.simonbarnes.com
Combining the services of a five-star hotel with the discretion, comfort and security of a private Mayfair residence, Grosvenor House Apartments by Jumeirah Living offer unparalleled luxury and a highly personalised service to make residents feel instantly at home.
Arranged over seven floors and available for long or short let, the apartments range in size from state of the art studios to four breathtaking penthouses over looking Hyde Park. Price on Application
The “Jumeirah Living” logo, trademark and trade name and the Beacon device (“Jumeirah Marks”) are owned by or licensed to Jumeirah International LLC or its affiliates (collectively referred to as “Jumeirah”). The use of the Jumeirah Marks by Grosvenor House Apartments Limited has been authorised by Jumeirah under licence, solely in relation to Jumeirah’s management and operation of the Grosvenor House Apartments by Jumeirah Living development.
273921KF_KCM_June2012.indd 1
17/05/2012 18:52
J
ust 900 metres from what is said to be one of the most beautiful summer playgrounds in the South of France – Cavalière Beach – this 19th century Château is a serene escape from the city at Cavalière, Var Coast in France. It is a fabulously positioned property, offering the best of both worlds between the seclusion of a beautiful second home for warmer climes and the convenience of restaurants, bars and shops at the nearby Cavalière Beach. The Plage de Saint-Clair, another of France’s best beaches, is just a short 4km journey away. This property comes with all the amenities a summer home should have – and more – including an eco-swimming pool, four outside dining areas and one hectare of landscaped gardens. There is also a home office and a staff quarters, for an added touch of comfort. Eight bedrooms and bathrooms, two large reception rooms and a designer kitchen also make up the 800m² area. The experience is incredibly private from the inside out and the four largest bedrooms each come with their own dressing room and marble bathroom including a two-person bath, a Roman rain shower and Italian cascade taps. The remaining four bedrooms also have en-suite facilities of their own, making the Château the kind of place you could spend weeks or even months of the warmer seasons relaxing with family and friends. Approximately £7,400,000 (www.savills.com) 184
The MAYFAIR Magazine | Property
The Château at Cavalière
In the South of France, this idyllic Château is the perfect summer home with some of France’s most beautiful beaches at its doorstep
185
Property | The MAYFAIR Magazine
‘The Château is the kind of place you could spend weeks or even months of the warmer seasons relaxing with family and friends’
186
A on
NEW
Monaco
PERSPECTIVE R E A L E S TAT E I N
The Pastor Group is offering our discerning clientele a rare opportunity to reside within the new “Le Simona” building, overlooking Monaco and situated on the edge of an exceptional park. The development comprises of twenty one luxurious four bedroom duplex apartments each offering large terraces and private swimming pool. A further magnificent triplex is available on the top floors of this iconic building, boasting three bedroom suites, private swimming pool and a large roof terrace. This visionary building provides uninterrupted views of the Mediterranean Sea, each apartment benefitting from stylish living space through highspecification design and finishes, all with communal access to the exclusive in-house spa and leisure facilities, such as a contemporary indoor swimming pool, sauna and hammam, gymnasium and massage rooms as well as a concierge service and relaxation garden. The apartments will be completed in the final quarter of 2012 and available to rent for the first time with a minimum 3 year lease.
LONDON
MONTE-CARLO
48 Curzon Street
13 av. des Spélugues
London, W1J 7UL
MC 98000 MONACO
T: +44 (0)20 3195 9595
T. + 377 97 70 20 70
F: +44 (0)20 3195 9596
F. + 377 97 70 20 71
W W W. PA S T O R - R E A L E S TAT E . C O M