The Mayfair Magazine September 2014

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Contents | The mayfair Magazine

Contents September 2014 Features 020 | The future of fashion As Mayfair’s Dover Street Market celebrates its tenth anniversary, the iconic concept store looks ahead to the future of innovative fashion 044 | Creative sole Our exclusive interview with Jimmy Choo’s leading lady and creative director, Sandra Choi

regulars 064 | A cut above Stephen Doig talks pocket squares, ties and bespoke shirting with Drake’s creative director, Michael Hill 067 | A stitch in time We take a walk down Mayfair’s legendary Savile Row, as the iconic street continues to evolve

054 | From Italy, with love We chart the history of Italian lingerie house La Perla; from Bologna to Bond Street

076 | The Mayfair Awards 2014 The Mayfair Awards returns, where you can join us in celebrating the best that the area has to offer

060 | Beautifully bespoke Nick Hammond discovers the craft behind bespoke shoes with Savile Row’s Gaziano & Girling

078 | Hybrid theory Richard Yarrow test drives the BMW i8; the revolutionary hybrid supercar

012 | Contributors 014 | Editor’s letter 017 | My life in Mayfair: Brian Lishak, director of Richard Anderson 018 | Couture culture Our latest dispatch on the top books, film and plays of the month 109 | Remembering Mayfair: Hartnell, Bruton Street

109

035

Collection 031 | Light work Milanese jeweller Pomellato presents its new Arabesque collection 033 | Jewellery news 035 | Sleepy hollow This month, it’s all about the sparkle; from jewels to embellished fabrics

Art 025 | Art news 026 | Prize lots 028 | Exhibition focus: ‘Drawing on Style: Four Decades of Elegance’ at Gallery 8

044 8

025

036 | Never say never Olivia Sharpe speaks with Jade Jagger in her Mayfair showroom and discovers her stunning new collection 039 | Watch news 040 | Hart of the matter Roger Baker talks with Neil Coyle of the jewellery retailer Fraser Hart about the business behind the brand



Contents | The mayfair Magazine

Contents September 2014

048

Fashion 042 | Style update 048 | Image of perfection Rediscover the timeless beauty of black and white day-to-night dresses 059 | Style him

Interiors 075 | Interiors news

Travel

Food & Drink

083 | Travel news

105 | Food & drink news

086 | Above and beyond Stephen Doig falls in love with a jewel of Italy’s coastline in Ravello

107 | Dining out: May Fair Kitchen

090 | Moonlight sonata We explore the historic area of Sorrento as the Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria celebrates its 180th anniversary 094 | City break: Capri A glamorous getaway to the heritage steeped island of Capri 096 | Suite dreams: Pig on the Beach, Studland Bay

Beauty 099 | Beauty news 102 | Spa review: So SPA at Sofitel St James

144

Property 130 | Word on the street Knight Frank’s Simon Burgoyne shares his views on Mayfair’s property scene

075 10

107

150 | The elements of style We meet the fashionable founder of Rokstone, Becky Fatemi in her Chiltern Street home

132 | The height of luxury A new property on Hays Mews arrives on the market

162 | PrimeResi news PrimeResi.com brings us the latest news in property

144 | From north west to Knightsbridge Hanover Residential discuss the success of its West End office

168 | Bon voyage Step inside legendary hotelier Michel Reybier’s stunning château in Bordeaux


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Contributors | The mayfair Magazine

S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 4 s i ss u e 0 3 6

Acting Editor Kate Racovolis

The

contributors

Art Editor Carol Cordrey Food & Drink Editor Neil Ridley Collection Editor Annabel Harrison Editorial Assistant Bethan Rees Editorial Intern Marianne Dick Brand Consistency Laddawan Juhong Senior Designer Lisa Wade Production Hugo Wheatley Alex Powell Oscar Viney Amy Roberts Editorial Director Kate Harrison Client Relationship Director Kate Oxbrow General Manager Fiona Fenwick Head of Finance Elton Hopkins Executive Director Sophie Roberts Managing Director Eren Ellwood

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Nick Hammond Nick specialises in luxury writing, with an emphasis on cigars, shooting and travel. He has written for Country Life and the FT’s How to Spend It, among others. This month, he heads to Gaziano & Girling’s factory to explore the art of crafting a bespoke pair of shoes.

Runwild Media Ltd. cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited submissions, manuscripts and photographs. While every care is taken, prices and details are subject to change and Runwild Media Ltd. takes no responsibility for omissions or errors. We reserve the right to publish and edit any letters. All rights reserved.

Stephen Doig

Richard Yarrow

Carol Cordrey

Award-winning fashion writer, Stephen has worked for Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar among many more. This month, he packs his bags and travels to the mountains of Ravello on Italy’s Amalfi coast to discover why everyone falls in love with the southern Italian lifestyle.

Richard is a motoring journalist and a former associate editor of Auto Express. This month, he heads to Inverness in the Scottish Highlands (via private jet) to experience the revolutionary and impressive all-new, plug-in, hybrid supercar; the BMW i8.

Carol is an art critic and editor. She organises the annual London Ice Sculpting Festival and is permanently on the art scene bringing us the latest happenings. This month she reports on the arrival of Lord Snowdon’s powerful photography at the National Portrait Gallery.

Also published by

DISTRIBUTION: The Mayfair Magazine is distributed in Mayfair, St James’s and Belgravia as well as selected parts of Knightsbridge, Chelsea and Marylebone.

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12

cover

On the

Photographer: Marino Parisotto, Rizzoli: La Perla - Lingerie & Desire. Art Direction: Sergio Pappalettera/ Studio Prodesign © 2012 RCS Libri S.p.A, Milan (see page 56)


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Editor’s Letter | The mayfair Magazine

editorT

From the

EDITOR’S PICKs

1 2

#1 Ankle boots, £745, Valentino (net-a-porter.com)

#2 Ring, £4,300, Garrard (garrard.com)

wice a year, something very special occurs in Mayfair at Dover Street Market. With what the innovative concept store terms as Tachiagari, which means ‘beginning’ in Japanese, the new seasons collections are heralded in, and the store starts afresh. Few places have achieved the incredibly high level of creativity and innovation as successfully as Dover Street Market. Here, fashion means so much more than clothes – they become a true art form. Extraordinary talent from new and established brands has been nurtured and championed here and, this month, to mark its first decade in London, we meet some of the designers who are part of the Dover Street Market family, including Simone Rocha, Stephen Jones, Erdem Moralioğlu, the father and son duo from Casely-Hayford and Phoebe English (page 20). There are also new beginnings elsewhere in Mayfair this month; on New Bond Street, Jimmy Choo will reopen its renovated flagship. Its leading lady and creative director Sandra Choi shares her inspiration and vision for the brand (page 44). Further down on Old Bond Street, one of Mayfair’s newest imports, La Perla, is celebrating its 60th anniversary, as we trace the brand’s history from its origins in Bologna, Italy in 1954 (page 54). Mayfair, however beautifully historic and rich in heritage, is still such an exciting area of London in which to work, live and visit. It strikes a fine balance between staying connected to its past, while forging on into the future. This month sees the return of The Mayfair Awards, where you can vote for your favourite places in Mayfair, from your local pub to the finest tailor (page 76). I do hope you join us in celebrating this special part of London.

Kate Racovolis Acting Editor #3 Bag, £985, Anya Hindmarch (anyahindmarch.com)

14

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above: image: gieves & hawkes, one of the nominees for the mayfair awards 2014 (see page 76)


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The mayfair Magazine | Regulars

My life in MAYFAIR Brian Lishak director of richard anderson

‘S ‘We are not only craftsmen but arbiters of fashion’ – Brian Lishak

FROM TOP: BRIAN LISHAK (IMAGE: GLAZIER PUBLICITY & DESIGN LTD 2010); RICHARD ANDERSON SHOWROOM ON SAVILE ROW (IMAGE: GLAZIER PUBLICITY & DESIGN LTD 2010); the FUMOIR BAR AT CLARIDGE’S (IMAGE COURTESY OF CLARIDGE’S); RICHARD ANDERSON BUTTONS (IMAGE: GLAZIER PUBLICITY & DESIGN LTD 2010); DISH FROM POLLEN STREET SOCIAL (IMAGE COURTESY OF POLLEN STREET SOCIAL)

avile Row is my life, my love and my fulfilment. After 59 years on the Row, I look forward to every day with fresh enthusiasm.’ Surprisingly, however, Brian Lishak, the co-founder of Richard Anderson, fell into tailoring ‘by accident’ when he took up a job at H Huntsman & Sons while waiting for a place at Leeds University. Nearly six decades later, he still hasn’t made it to Leeds, but in the meantime has become an established presence on Savile Row instead. The devotion to high-quality tailoring and exceptional customer service is what Brian believes makes the Row unique and what attracts its loyal clientele from across the world, and people who have become more like ‘good friends’ than customers. Brian worked his way up from a junior sales assistant role at the age of 16, to the position of deputy chairman (with a couple of detours via the RAF and Wells of Mayfair along the way). He opened Richard Anderson in 2001 with a fellow Huntsman colleague, who shared his dream of bringing something new to bespoke suits. ‘The Row has evolved in common with most things in life. We are not only craftsmen but arbiters of fashion. Many designs we introduce are copied by the fashion trade. Our clientele has also changed; they seek a satisfying shopping experience rather than a Dickensian, severely formal atmosphere.’ At Richard Anderson, Brian and his team look far beyond a client’s measurements when fitting a bespoke suit, assessing each person’s lifestyle and background in order to create something which completely encompasses their style and persona. A witness to the recent evolution of the Row, Brian has used his profound knowledge to become a pioneer of change in the industry. ‘It is a privilege to be part of passing the wonderful skills of sewing and the meticulous art of cutting from generation to generation – a tradition where we can proudly say “British is the best in the World”. People will always seek out quality and recognise skill. The craft has an abundance of young people entering the trade… These factors will see Savile Row continue to flourish for the foreseeable future.’ Brian has absolutely no intention of retiring, but when he does take some time out he’s likely to be found in some of the area’s finest institutions, browsing the bookshelves of Hatchards or enjoying dinner at Pollen Street Social, ‘Jason Atherton is a super chef, I love all of his restaurants but particularly this one.’ As his romance with Mayfair approaches its diamond anniversary, he reveals the familiar haunts where he goes to unwind. ‘I love the afternoon tea at The Wolseley, not only is the food excellent but it has a beguiling electricity I love. And my favourite bar has to be The Fumoir at Claridge’s, a small cosy intimate atmosphere for a martini in peace.’ We couldn’t think of a more appropriate accessory for a Savile Row suit. 17


agenda

books

Man’s best friend Dogs are often cited as man’s best friend, but are they closer than we originally thought? Cheever Hardwick looks at the hilarious similarities between males and one of man’s most fond of companions, the Labrador in his latest book, The Labrador Theory. With cartoons by Alasdair Hilleary, it’s a comical read, and a perfect addition to the coffee table. The Labrador Theory by Cheever Hardwick, £14.95, Quiller Publishing (quillerpublishing.com)

Couture culture Watch Nicole Kidman and Colin Firth in an emotionally charged thriller and Jenny Packham and Neom collaborate to create a beautifully-scented candle

theatre

The Importance of Being Earnest

F

resh from the notoriously blood-soaked revisit of her 2006 production of Titus Andronicus at Shakespeare’s Globe, Lucy Bailey swaps flesh pies for cucumber sandwiches in her modernised version of Wilde’s frivolous comedy. The opening scene introduces the ‘The Bunbury Company of Players’, an ageing, bickering set of amateurs who are preparing for this year’s dress rehearsal of their well-thumbed version of The Importance of Being Earnest. The irony is that the cast’s credentials make the Harold Pinter Theatre one of the most concentrated pools of talent currently active in the West End. Despite the big names however, there’s a warmly familiar rapport between the actors, which translates brilliantly on stage – particularly between the dashing Nigel Havers and the commanding Martin Jarvis, who reunite as Algernon and John respectively, the roles they played in the 1982 version. Apart from slightly stiffer limbs, the 21stcentury framing of the farce gives it an energising shake-up, elements of which may unsettle traditionalists initially, but don’t worry – Havers removes his scarlet Nike trainers, everyone settles into their proper roles and the 18

magic of Wilde’s script is revealed with delicious pleasure. The attention to age actually creates new laughs and the occasional well-timed present-day reference gives the show an added depth of humour. Bailey’s controversial angle may be considered unnecessary for such a wellestablished production, but within it she manages to satirise both the Victorian and the modern-day bourgeoisie, an interpretation we’d like to think Oscar Wilde would approve of. The Importance of Being Earnest runs at the Harold Pinter Theatre until 20 September (atgtickets.com)

Photo Tristram Kenton words: marianne dick

The Scandalous read The Mad Boy, Lord Berners, My Grandmother and Me by Sofka Zinovieff, £25, Jonathan Cape A look into the house of Lord Berners and family, and their eccentric, scandal-filled lives. THE THRILLING READ The Bone Clocks by David Mitchell, £20, Sceptre This novel follows the twists and turns of a teenage runaway in a gripping, metaphysical thriller. THE food read Meat by Pat LaFrieda, £25, Simon & Schuster The third-generation butcher guides us through the world of meat, with personal memoirs and delicious recipes. the FASHION READ Hollywood and The Ivy Look by Graham Marsh and Tony Nourmand, £24.95, Reel Art Press A pictorial celebration of the style that dominated America’s male dress codes from 1955­-1965. THE PHOTOGRAPHY READ Woodstock by Baron Wolman, £29.95, Reel Art Press Baron Wolman leads us through one of the world’s most iconic festivals in the 1960s, through his lens.


The mayfair Magazine | Regulars

5 top picks

Image courtesy StudioCanal

The new classics

From the LBD to the trench coat, we bring you five updates on classic pieces for the new season #1 Hat, from a selection, Maison Michel (michel-paris.com)

film

#2 Boy bag, from a selection, Chanel (chanel.com)

Before I Go To Sleep

R

owan Joffé asks,‘What are we, if not an accumulation of our memories?’ in his big-screen adaptation of the emotional thriller and bestselling debut novel by SJ Watson. Christine Lucas, played by Nicole Kidman, wakes up every morning wondering who the hand resting on her side of the quilt belongs to. Tiptoeing into the bathroom, assuming she is still twenty-something, she is confronted by a collage of photographs showing a life that a brutal attack has caused her to forget each time she goes to sleep, and a middle-aged face staring back from the mirror. However, a daily phone call reminds her to look for a camera hidden inside her closet, which helps her piece together fragments of her past that her ‘Happiness’ candle, from £80, available from jennypackham.com and neomorganics.com

husband Ben (Colin Firth) appears to be keeping from her. The atmosphere switches from panicked to poignant in a matter of minutes, so don’t be surprised if you end up simultaneously wiping your eyes and watching through your fingers. Influences from the masters of suspense are present throughout, from Hitchcock’s stairs to Stephen King’s corridors, but the clever twist sets it apart from comparable psychological dramas such as Memento or Inception. A chilling, nightmarish situation portrayed with a heart-breaking intensity by an unconventional yet brilliantly chosen cast – just make sure you take someone to hide behind. Before I Go To Sleep is released on 5 September

#3 Trench coat, £2,395, Burberry (burberry.com)

WORDS: MARIANNE DICK

Jenny Packham and Neom Organics collaborate to create happiness in candle form

#4 Dress £1,305, Hervé Léger (net-a-porter.com)

#5 Heels, £490, Gianvito Rossi (gianvitorossi.com)

19


The future of

fashion

Dover Street Market’s avant-garde designers pay homage to the iconic concept store, from Simone Rocha to Erdem to celebrate its tenth anniversary Rei Kawakubo, the famously elusive Comme des Garçons founder recently said, ‘The rules are in my head’ – outlining what has made her unique vision a point of constant inspiration to the fashion world. Ten years ago, Kawakubo opened Dover Street Market – the revolutionary Mayfair concept store, known for its forward-thinking approach to fashion. To celebrate this milestone, this month the store sees the launch

Erdem Moralioglu What was the inspiration behind Erdem’s S/S14 installation for Dover Street Market? What was it like working with the space? It started with this idea of black and white, which was very much what S/S14 had been about. I thought it could look amazing to cover the walls in a dense white grass and loved the idea of a monochromatic upside-down plastic rose garden growing out of the ceiling. Why is Dover Street Market important to you as a designer? They are such visionaries and everything is so beautifully curated. It is exciting to work with them. What do you think will stay the same about fashion moving forward, and what will remain the same? Fashion is constantly evolving and that is very exciting but I think that craftsmanship and clothing that bears a human hand will always be very important. 20

of an array of collaborations, including a dedicated Louis Vuitton space and the first ever window designed by Nicolas Ghesquiere. Kawakubo herself has created an installation based on her vision of the next ten years, and we can’t wait to see what’s next for this iconic Mayfair institution. Dover Street Market, 17-18 Dover Street, W1S (doverstreetmarket.com)

‘Dover Street Market completely revolutionised the shopping experience in London’ Stephen Jones As a pioneer of beautiful millinery, how have you seen this form of fashion change over the past decade? I think millinery only used to be a department store purchase, and what’s great at Dover Street Market is that there are hats in every department. What do you think Dover Street Market has brought to London’s fashion offering since it opened? I think Dover Street Market completely revolutionised the shopping experience in London, nothing like it had been seen before it, or to be truthful, since. What do you envisage for the future of the craft of millinery? How do you see it evolving, and what will influence it? Now because of initiatives like Headonism, which is a millinery outreach sponsored and supported by the British Fashion Council, Wedgwood and myself, young milliners have much more of a chance to be seen by a wider public. I think the industry is very healthy and not only London based.


The mayfair Magazine | Feature

Greg Lauren How has being sculptor, painter and actor helped inspire your designs? I have always felt that as a designer, I am really just a painter, or artist working in a different medium. I always approach creating the clothes, or building a collection, with the same spirit and curiosity as I did when creating a series of paintings, sculptures or new body of work. I try to ask questions and explore themes which move me, which I feel are universal, and which result in an emotional connection to the work, of both the customer and myself. I love when the clothes not only look good on someone, but make them feel something as well. I would say ‘Why do we wear what we wear?’, ‘Revealing the pain beneath the beauty' and ‘Fashion’s relationship to identity, and the contradictions within us’, are some of the main themes consistent in my work. Then my favourite part is seeing where actual techniques, textures and aesthetics I used in my paintings or sculptures can find their way into the clothes. Collage, patchwork, embracing imperfections and literally drawing directly on to a garment have all been part of the process. Your collections are in both Dover Street Market London and New York – how has this contributed to the growth of your brand? Working with DSM has been a true joy, one which has had a major impact on the growth of my brand. The type of experience both stores provide and the feeling one gets when you walk through the world of DSM have provided a perfect setting for my collection, and the association with the other brands in the store, has given it a creative seal of approval. When in the store, one is almost forced to really look and experience the clothes, to take in the details. I have had more people from around the world tell me they first learned about the collection from either DSM location, than anywhere else. In addition, DSM’s commitment to letting their designers fully express themselves has allowed me to create special installations in each store. This is a huge factor in helping to communicate the essence of the brand and the collection. More importantly, they did not try to tailor what I wanted to do. They embraced the vision and helped make it a reality. I still have customers who talk about the installations as much as the collection itself. Do you feel that you are a part of a high calibre of the creative class by being stocked there? It is an honour to be stocked at DSM, to be in a group of designers and artists who challenge themselves and their customer to think differently. I remember walking into DSM London back in 2009, before my own collection was launched, but on the eve of a big exhibition I was about to have in New York. I was overwhelmed by the level of creativity I felt from my first step into the store. As I entered each floor, I was taken by the way the clothes and ideas were presented. I immediately thought, this is where I want to be... I need to create something for this place one day! 21


Simone Rocha

installation of the window. We made the base structure and most of the covering in a small room in our studio in East London, and then had to move the whole thing in a van to the Mayfair store. Then, once it was in the building we started the finishing touches – this included nearly all of my team with gardening gloves and tools, placing, arranging and gluing flowers, moss and foliage in the window of Dover Street Market. It was a great experience, it felt really special.

What was the inspiration behind your window display and shop-in-shop at Dover Street Market in 2013? The window display for the S/S13 collection originally featured as the backdrop set for the S/S13 catwalk show. It was a replication of the lane behind my family home where I grew up in Ireland. The set was made from plants, flowers and foliage that were live or Image by Alex Franco dried. The set was then rebuilt in the window Was it always a dream of yours to work with Dover of DSM in London in January 2013, and was Street Market? then shipped to Japan and reinstalled in the Dover Street Market is an amazing store which I have always DSM Ginza for the one-year anniversary that March. The respected. From the collections they have in the store to the shop-in-shop for DSM London was the first of its kind. I wanted interiors of the building and the Rose Bakery. The creativity of to create a environment that epitomised the brand’s aesthetic that would work for every collection as well as creating a dynamic Rei Kawakubo and the rest of the Comme des Garçons team really makes it stand out against the rest of the retail landscape. I and inviting place for customers to shop. The space features perspex which is a signature material that I use in the collections, would say it is a privilege to call DSM my home from home, with my own shop-in-shop, so it is a real pleasure to work with them notably in the shoes, creating a lightness as well as a modern from season to season. balance to a lot of the hand-made and embellished fabrics in the collections. What is your view on the future of fashion? I think the future is for fashion to look at itself and always be What was the most memorable part of the project? moving forward, with everyone on their own path that feels right I really enjoyed designing and installing both the shop-in-shop for them. Always pushing forward with textiles and silhouette. and the window display. I think the most memorable is the

Phoebe English You must be the envy of many young designers, having your pieces stocked in Dover Street Market – how does it feel to be part of its collections? It is a great honour to be in such a special store. I am extremely grateful to be part of the amazing family that is Dover Street Market. Knowing that pieces I am designing will eventually be sold alongside such creative and prestigious company makes each collection such a joy to work on. What do you enjoy most about working with Dover Street Market? Each member of the team is so open minded and receptive to creative thought and new ideas. They are all forward thinking and progressive in taste and opinion, and that is really what sets the store apart from other retail environments. Nothing is ever compared to what has worked in the past or what people ‘should’ think or like, it is always about going forward and the ‘now’, challenging perceptions and ideas. That is what good design should be about and that is what Dover Street Market completely understands and embraces. 22

You have been called one of the most exciting talents of your generation. What inspires you, and what are your ambitions for the future of your brand? Well, that is quite an overwhelming label! I am continuously inspired by quite simple and humble things, really. I enjoy just being in my studio and working on my mannequin. When I’m very busy it is such a pleasure to spend hours in silent thought, developing an idea slowly and carefully with my own hands.


The mayfair Magazine | Feature

‘DSM was a real education for me, there is nowhere else like it in the world’ – Charlie Casely-Hayford Joe and Charlie Casely-Hayford How does it feel to now have your brand housed here? Dover Street Market feels likes a second family to me. I worked there for nearly five years and started when I was a teenager, so a lot of people that I now work with in a business capacity watched me grow up on the shop floor. In that sense, having our collection in DSM was really the starting point for the brand and an amazing transition for me. We still feel that same closeness five years later. What are your earliest memories of Dover Street Market? Turning up in a pair of Nike Air Max, some jeans and a checked shirt on my first day and Dickon and Adrian making me change into a Comme des Garçons x Rolling Stones outfit. I learnt my lesson and wore a bit more of an outfit the next day. Everyday there was something new happening, the store was constantly evolving. There’s isn’t anywhere else like that.

pioneering talent, they now house a really strong and wide collection of talent from London Collections: Men. I love that it has always championed new talent ahead of anyone else, but also focuses on talent from a previous generation still innovating, such as Judy Blame, Michael Costiff, Andrew Logan and Katerina Jebb. Dover Street Market has stocked your collections since the launch of your brand. Has this shaped the success of your brand? I guess it’s been a little bit of a barometer for us. Adrian and Dickon were the first ever buyers to pick up our collection in 2009, and I feel there are a lot of landmarks that wouldn’t have happened without the store behind us. Working at DSM was a real education for me, there is nowhere else like it in the world. I was definitely the worst sales assistant ever and I really have to thank them for not firing me... Who knows how differently things would have turned out.

What do you think makes Dover Street Market different to other concept stores? What do you and your father both love about it? Just when you think you got it figured out, the entire store changes over and you feel like you’re entering somewhere new, raw and unfound all over again. The common thread for me between all the amazing designers, architects and artists housed there is integrity, innovation and creation. How have you seen the store change and evolve over the years? When I first started working there, they were hardly any British emerging menswear designers. DSM was the only store I knew at the time who had picked a small selection of pieces from the Royal College of Art’s graduates. Ten years later and still true to

Image © Rory van Millingen

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Q&A with… Bryan Reeves, organiser of Tribal Art London Q: What prompted the creation of this unusual art fair, and will there be a programme of talks? A: I was prompted by the need to fill a void in the UK for this special form of art. Other dealers agreed that we definitely had a customer base for it that needed fulfilling. We have organised a very interesting talk schedule featuring tribal jewellery and adornment, masks and traditional shawls.

Art news

Lord Snowdon’s powerful photography arrives at the National Portrait Gallery, and Mayfair pays homage to David Farrell w o r ds : c a r o l c o r d r e y

Life through a lens The National Portrait Gallery must have been overcome with excitement last year when it was informed that Lord Snowdon was gifting them 130 original prints. These rank as some of the most famous works by one of this country’s most revered photographers. To celebrate this great gift, the National Portrait Gallery has worked with Lord Snowdon’s daughter, Frances von Hofmannsthal, to curate an exhibition of more than 40 of these black-and-white portraits, which record a range of cultural figures who made significant contributions to Britain’s success in the second half of the 20th century. Snowdon: A Life in View, 26 September – 21 June (npg.org.uk)

All the world’s a stage This month, Osborne Samuel gallery pays homage to one of the photography greats; David Farrell (1919-2013), with the first retrospective of his work since his death. He is known for his portraits of the likes of Louis Armstrong, the Rolling Stones and The Beatles. Farrell adopted an unobtrusive approach to his subjects – John Gielgud responded with amazement at seeing Farrell’s portrait of him; ‘David, where were you? I didn’t know you were there.’ David Farrell, 1-20 September (osbornesamuel.com)

Q: What kinds of artefacts can we look forward to seeing, and which countries are they from? A: There will be a big range from across the globe and many of Central Asian, Oceanic and African origin so the large space of The Mall Galleries is a great venue for it. The stands will include tribal jewellery, headdresses, furniture, masks, textiles, ceremonial pieces, early photography, armour and contemporary art. Q: Does tribal art lend itself to interior furnishing or is it the preserve of a rare breed of collector? A: Interest in it has changed recently, so it’s definitely not just for specialist collectors. More and more people and designers are buying tribal art to furnish homes with really interesting objects so dealers are sourcing high-quality pieces to satisfy the demand. Q: Can you draw our attention to three especially prized pieces at the fair? A: My display will include a Cameroon feather ceremonial hat; Adam Prout’s stand will have a 19th-century Chokwe mask from Angola; and David Malik will show a Chi Wara headdress from Mali – but there will be many other prized pieces, of course. Tribal Art London, 10-13 September, The Mall Galleries (tribalartlondon.com)

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Clockwise, from top: Brian Wall by Lord Snowdon, gelatin silver print, 27 September 1963; © Armstrong Jones. Chi Wara Headdress, Mali. David Farrell, Boys Only, Hampstead Heath, 1960. Courtesy of Osborne Samuel. David Farrell, Mick Jagger and Brian Jones, c.1963. ® David Farrell, courtesy of Osborne Samuel

The mayfair Magazine | Art


PRIZE LOTs #1 Reigning Queens (Royal Edition): Queen Elizabeth by Andy Warhol Andy Warhol was one of the most prolific and influential artists of the 20th century; parties at his studio, The Factory, with Edie Sedgwick, Lou Reed and Bob Dylan were almost as famous as his work. Warhol was a leading figure in the pop art movement, which emerged in the late 1950s in the US, and took inspiration from everyday items, consumer goods and mass media, for example the famed Campbell’s Soup Cans. Warhol also used existing portraits as the basis for many of his prints and paintings, including this series of screen-prints of Queen Elizabeth II. The portraits were not commissioned for or by the Queen, but instead he used the 1975 official photograph released for the Silver Jubilee taken by Peter Grugeon for inspiration. He simplified the original image, producing a mask-like face, and the shape is reminiscent of a postage stamp – but on a monumental scale. The four prints come as a set, and are part of a portfolio entitled Reigning Queens from the Royal Edition which are sprinkled with ‘diamond dust’. Expected value £100,000-£150,000, Prints and Multiples sale at Sotheby’s, 16 September (sothebys.com)

#2 Buste de Femme d’après Cranach le Jeune by Pablo Picasso Sotheby’s previously set a record for one of the most expensive prints ever sold at auction, selling at £1.3million which was over double the estimate. This print was one of Spanish artist Pablo Picasso’s etchings, entitled La Minotauromachie (1932). This was also the record for a print by the painter at auction. Picasso famously inspired the cubism art movement, and is also widely regarded as the most important artist of the 20th century; for art lovers, or newcomers to the subject area, Picasso

#1 Image: © sotheby’s; #2 christie’s images ltd 2014; #3 image courtesy of bonhams

is one name everyone knows. Buste de Femme d’après Cranach le Jeune is to be sold as part of the Prints and Multiples sale, and shows the artist’s experimental phase of using linocuts which he took an interest in after meeting the young printer Hildago Arnèra. An exciting sale for the art world, and potentially record-breaking too. Expected value £250,000-£300,000, Prints and Multiples sale at Christie’s, 17 September (christies.com)

#3 19th-century kingwood commode An unusual sale is coming to Bonhams in September, when the contents of a grand Milanese apartment and Genoese villa are to be sold. The items belong to Count and Countess Martignone, a noble family from the Como vicinity whose ancestry can be traced back to the 13th-century. Leading figures of Italian society enjoyed parties at the Martignone residence in the Italian Riviera; from prime ministers to politicians, popes to the last King of Italy. The collection of over 500 items includes master paintings, fine furniture and sculptures, including this fine French late 19th-century kingwood and gilt bronze mounted bombé commode. The piece echoes the work of Charles Cressent, a furniture-maker and a fondeur-ciseleur of the régence style, with a marble top and moulded edges. The pair of long drawers is elaborately decorated with gilt bronze mounts of scrolled acanthus leaves and details of putti rocking a monkey, and tightropewalking dogs, held up by cabriole legs. Retailed by prestigious antique dealers Edward & Roberts, this lot really does get more interesting the more you discover about it. Expected value £10,000-£15,000, The contents of Count and Countess Martignone’s. Milanese and Genoese properties sale at Bonhams, 24 September (bonhams.com)


The mayfair Magazine | Art

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Exhibition Focus

Drawing on Style:

Four Decades of Elegance As London Fashion Week sweeps through London, Gallery 8 in St James’s hosts a series of fashion illustrations from post-war 1940s to the 1970s, showing iconic and original designs by Nina Ricci, Dior and Barbara Hulanicki w o rds : M ar i ann e d i c k

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ABOVE, LEFT: Gerd Grimm (1911-1998), Fashion Illustration for Die Dame, 1947, Indian Ink & Watercolour, signed 42 x 30 cms, £5,000

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s John Galliano once proclaimed, ‘The joy of dressing is an art,’ and those who are seduced by art and fashion know that the two are inextricably bound to each other. It can be easy to forget that the greatest fashion movements in history began as ideas sketched on paper, so throughout London Fashion Week Gallery 8 are offering us lessons in sartorial history, courtesy of Gray Modern & Contemporary Art. Specialists in fashion illustration, Ashley and Connie Gray will be presenting a selling exhibition of exquisite works from the post-war years of the 1940s to the

exuberant 1970s, featuring iconic pieces from influential illustrators such as Carl ‘Eric’ Erickson, Barbara Hulanicki and Dame Zandra Rhodes. While the beauty of the images can easily be appreciated on reflection, unfortunately in the days when these artists were crucial to the industry, their role in the art world was constantly in a state of uncertainty – leaving their illustrations often tragically discarded and their talent undervalued. Gray remarks, ‘More often than not, fashion illustrators were more widely known for their advertising work than they were for their work. It was almost a secret world in

ABOVE, CENTRE: Brian Stonehouse M.B.E. (1918 - 1998), Working Fashion Illustration for US Magazine, C1950’s, Mixed Media, signed 60 x 43 cms, £3,500; RIGHT: Pierre Mourgue, Femme, 1946, Ink & Watercolour, signed & inscribed 46 x 29 cms, £5,000


The mayfair Magazine | Art

ABOVE, LEFT: Brian Stonehouse M.B.E. (1918-1998), Working Fashion Illustration for US Magazine New York, 1953, Mixed Media, signed & inscribed 54 x 38 cms, £6,000

ABOVE, CENTRE: Eva Aldbrook (1925), Dior Model II, Fashion Illustration of Dior Model Christine Tidmarsh, 1956, Mixed Media, signed 54 x 36 cms, £2,500

which only those working in the industry knew and admired each other.’ The earlier pieces in the exhibition showcase the work produced during the glory days of fashion illustration, when the likes of Erickson and René Bouché were the 1940s and 1950s equivalent of famed fashion photographers Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott. Highlights from this part of the exhibition include several sketches by Christian Dior, whose New Look became one of the most influential fashion movements in history. An ultra-feminine response to the rationed, hard-wearing clothing of the war, the movement saw miniscule waists and an excess of material, a look that was romantically depicted through Dior’s graceful ink strokes. As the 1960s and 1970s began, popular culture, fashion and celebrity began to intertwine and a demand for more detailed, realistic images emerged. Photographed magazine covers became almost a requirement, and other than the established journals of New York, Paris and London, fashion illustrators were cast aside. Thus, many moved into the realms of costume design or advertising, and fashion illustration became mostly a by-product of this industry, rather than an art form in its own right. Despite these shifts in the industry, the work produced still remains legendary – another significant

piece in the exhibition is by René Gruau, most famously associated with Dior, whose minimal yet dramatic flair was instantly recognisable in advertisements, film posters and magazines alike. Poring over these illustrations, it’s absurd to think that anyone could throw such intricate and skilled studies away. As Connie Gray states, ‘Almost all were products of the most respected art schools of the time, and to be a truly great illustrator they needed to understand not only the life form but also the process of designing, cutting and finishing a garment.’ These images contain a magic that can be lost through the stark honesty of a camera lens – just like a child may obsess over a dress worn by a Disney princess, the enchantment of a couture sketch comes from filling in the gaps with our own imaginations. The illustrations not only display beautiful designs, but they can, in fact, capture the whole atmosphere of an era. From the hair and make-up to the stance of the model, and even the movement of the brushstrokes, there’s something much more expressive about representing fashion through this medium. Perhaps it’s time to move on from the age of the airbrush and enhance our images using a paintbrush instead. Drawing on Style: Four Decades of Elegance runs from the 11-16 September at Gallery 8, SW1Y (8dukestreet.co.uk)

ABOVE, RIGHT: Gerd Grimm (1911-1998) Evening Dress for Die Frau, 1949, Indian Ink & Watercolour, signed 40 x 30 cms, £5,000

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The mayfair Magazine | Fashion

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The mayfair Magazine | Collection

Light work

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ilanese jeweller Pomellato first came onto the scene in 1967 amid the hype of the psychedelic swinging sixties; as a result, the brand has always enjoyed a certain freedom of spirit, breaking the rules with its assortment of eccentric, one-off and brightly-coloured jewels. However its new Arabesque collection reveals a slightly more subdued look in comparison with previous years. The line comprises delicate, rose gold pieces featuring amber, an ancient gemstone symbolising life and associated with Apollo, god of the sun. The intricate openwork plays with both light and shade, incorporating diamonds and large transparent stones. When paired with the striking figure of Tilda Swinton shot against coloured lights, the result is truly captivating. (pomellato.com) Arabesque, Tilda Swinton for Pomellato Photography: Jean-Baptiste Mondino

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C E L E B R AT I N G 3 0 Y E A R S

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Jewellery news High fashion meets haute joaillerie, as Chanel unveils Café Society and Dior the Archi Dior collection WOR D S : O L IVIA S HAR P E

Moves like Jagger For her A/W14 accessories collection, British fashion designer Jenny Packham was influenced by 1970s socialite Bianca Jagger who was known in her day for being an avid follower of the New York party scene. The designer commented that she admires ‘women who style themselves with integrity and wit – Bianca was the queen of mindful dressing…’ Oversized cuffs, head-turning necklaces and dramatic rings in rich tones of cyan and royal blue, contrasted with lighter shades of topaz and aquamarine, make up the Bianca collection, while statement necklaces featuring jewelled tones, multicoloured headbands and silk champagne organza belts complete the accompanying Solaris collection. Jenny Packham Accessories Boutique, 34 Elizabeth Street, SW1W 9NZ (jennypackham.com)

CUTTING EDGE Each piece from the Archi Dior collection, shown at this year’s Paris Couture Week, has been attributed to an iconic line or haute couture gown. Designer Victoire de Castellane has used the concept of architectural design to transform fabric into precious stones and high fashion into high jewellery:

‘I wanted to create each piece just like the dresses Christian Dior designed with an architect’s eye, as if the jewels were sculpted, flounced, pleated, belted or draped fabrics… These are pieces of jewellery which take to the catwalk as if they were ballgowns’ – Victoire de Castellane

Café Society At Paris Couture Week, Chanel unveiled its latest haute joaillerie collection, Café Society. A departure from previous collections based around signature house symbols such as the lion, the camellia and the star, the new 81-piece line instead embraces the avant garde and creative world of Paris’ ‘Café Society’ during the 20th century and combines cutting-edge, geometric shapes, diverse colours using an array of precious gemstones and contrasting materials including white gold, rock crystal, onyx and black spinel. Sadly, you will have to wait a little longer to get your hands on the new collection as it doesn’t become available in UK stores until next May. (chanel.com) Great Mysteries Jacques Arpels, founder of historic French jewellery maison Van Cleef & Arpels, was once quoted as saying: ‘Our aim is to offer excellence in all that we do’. And for more than a century, this is exactly what it has done. One of the most recognised names in haute joaillerie, Van Cleef & Arpels has continuously succeeded in effortlessly fusing elegance, sophistication and beauty since it was first established in 1906. Now art historian and journalist Bérénice Geoffroy-Schneiter has charted the history of the jeweller and its most famous pieces, revealing the mystery behind its patented gem-setting technique, Serti Mystérieux (mystery setting) in her new book, available from September. £19, Van Cleef & Arpels by Bérénice GeoffroySchneiter (assouline.com)

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The mayfair Magazine | Collection

#3

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sleepy

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Alexander McQueen A/W14

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See your way through the enchanted forest with sparkling jewels and embellished fabrics

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#1 Sunburst crystal necklace, £840, Oscar de la Renta, 130 Mount Street #2 Silver-plated Swarovski crystal bow ring, £180, Miu Miu (net-a-porter.com) #3 Thorn long finger ring set in 18-carat white gold with black diamonds, £12,400, Stephen Webster (stephenwebster.com) #4 Forest single ring, from a selection, As29 (as29.com) #5 Zelia necklace in silver, £515, Jenny Packham (jennypackham.com) #6 Crystal flower choker, £895, Alexander McQueen (alexandermcqueen.com) #7 Pavé teardrop earrings, £420, Oscar de la Renta, as before #8 Vintage lace cuff, £624, Aurelie Bidermann (farfetch.com) #9 Superstone open ring set in sterling silver with white mother-of-pearl, £350, Stephen Webster, as before #10 Kalmia crystal bracelet, £182, Jenny Packham, as before #11 Black diamond lace cuff in 18-carat white gold with black rhodium, £24,000, Georgina Skan (georginaskan.com) #12 Granada collection earrings, £22,814, Sylva & Cie (farfetch.com) #13 Wing of Desire earring, £34,000, Jessica McCormack (jessicamccormack.com) #14 Lady Stardust Crystal Haze ring set in 18-carat white gold with hematite and white diamonds, £7,400, Stephen Webster, as before 35


Never say

never

Olivia Sharpe meets Jade Jagger in her new Mayfair showroom for a sneak preview of her latest jewellery collection, Neverending, launching in September

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n the weeks leading up to the opening of her New Bond Street store, I meet Jade Jagger to preview her new limited edition jewellery collection, Neverending, in collaboration with online luxury marketplace 1stdibs. Unsurprisingly, there have been numerous articles written about the daughter of Rolling Stones’ frontman Mick Jagger and his first wife Bianca, some of which have been less than flattering, portraying her as a bit of a diva (to put it mildly). Entering the showroom, I immediately spot Jade; her striking features inherited from both parents are hard to miss. Heavily pregnant (she gave birth to a baby boy just a month after our interview) and being a warm day in May, most women in Jade’s shoes would not have welcomed a day being grilled by press but this doesn’t seem to faze her. Appearing effortlessly stylish in a loose-fitting top covering her baby bump, jeans and ballet pumps, she briefly shakes my hand before going back to setting up her jewellery stand. When we eventually sit down to chat, Jade jokes how she is taking a seat on her throne and the air is instantly lightened. The jewellery designer’s latest collection is one of several but signals her first partnership with 1stdibs.com. Despite being founded in Paris, the online retailer has always considered New York home, having relocated there two years after it was

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established. It was the perfect fit for Jade who is not shy in telling me that she finds it impossible to move away from her childhood ‘halcyon days’ in 1970s New York, when she would hang out in The Factory with her mother’s close friend Andy Warhol. ‘I can’t get away from my heritage. My work always seems to end up being a throwback to the 70s and this has very much become part of my intrinsic style.’ Studying the 30-piece collection of statement ruby, sapphire and chrysophrase rings, earrings, pendants and bracelets, it’s easy to trace this influence. Jade’s craftsmen are based in Jaipur and the pieces possess a bohemian feel (characteristic of 70s jewellery); the majority of the stones, locally and ethically sourced, are set in 18-karat yellow gold and embellished with traditional Indian enamel work and diamonds, mirroring the artistry of the maharajas. Jade is also inspired by art and architecture. She developed a love of drawing when her father was gifted one of the first Macintosh computers by Steve Jobs and this love was then nurtured by Warhol. In the late 1980s, after studying painting in Florence, she worked as an artist and held several successful exhibitions before setting up her own jewellery line, Jade Inc. She comments: ‘I’m probably more art-based from my design and artistic backgrounds. I started out making my own paint from pigments such as lapis lazuli and these


The mayfair Magazine | Collection

techniques slowly developed into my jewellery.’ She is also the founder of interior design company, Jade Jagger for yoo, and this again makes her an ideal collaborator with 1stdibs, a brand which specialises in antique furniture and fine art, among other things. Each piece within the Neverending collection features strong, graphic lines and geometric design elements. Saying that, Jade deems it impossible to define exactly where her inspiration comes from: ‘I do believe it has a kind of magical quality. My ideas don’t necessarily come from a research perspective. They evolve.’ Having worked in jewellery for 20 years, Jade considers herself a jewellery designer first and foremost but acknowledges that her design background plays a significant part: ‘All the things I do share a lot of qualities: the use of colour, graphics and a sense of modernity throughout. It applies across the board.’ While the collection is edgy and contemporary in many ways, it also possesses a sense of timelessness. After setting up Jade Inc., in 2000 the designer was snapped up by Asprey & Garrard where she worked as creative director for seven years. She is credited with creating some of the house’s most iconic collections, including Wings which remains a bestseller. Jade has been noted for her slightly rock ’n’ roll style, incorporating motifs such as disco balls, skulls and arrows. However, over the years, this has evolved and the latest collection is a reflection of her maturity as a fine jewellery designer. The whole process of designing Neverending has taken years and Jade is still adding new pieces, hence the name. Fortunately, being a mother of three has meant she has mastered the art of patience. ‘Having children and working in business makes you understand how good things come to those who wait,’ she says, smiling. While Neverending highlights Jade’s own evolution as a designer, it is still very much in keeping with her signature style. Each piece has a natural confidence

and charisma, qualities which I believe to be indicative of the designer herself. Jade has always loved working with semi-precious stones and the first piece she created for Neverending was the emerald ring. ‘I often start with rings because I can’t help myself,’ she remarks, excitedly. Later this year, Jade plans to release a Flower collection, as well as continuing to work on her newly-launched Ibiza range. The gold-plated line of jewellery is part of the designer’s more affordable range and demonstrates her love of the Mediterranean island where she has spent many happy years and currently has a home. Leaving the interview, I can’t help but think it must never be a dull moment when you’re in the presence of Jade Jagger. Neverending by Jade Jagger is available from 3 September (1stdibs.com; jadejagger.co.uk)

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‘What gives you the license to do this?’ T H E CEO O F A M AJ OR SW I S S WATCH BRAND ON HEARI NG A B O U T C A L IB RE SH 2 1, CH RISTO PH ER WARD ’ S FI RST I N- HOU S E M OVEM ENT.

The chronometer-certified C9 Harrison 5 Day Automatic, with 120-hour power reserve, is the first watch to house our own movement. Conceived and designed by our master watchmaker, Johannes Jahnke, and manufactured by some of Switzerland’s finest watchmaking craftsmen, it is destined to be one of the most talked about watches in years. And, yes, you do have the license to own one. CA LI BR E SH2 1

EXCLU S IVE LY AVA IL A B L E AT chri sto p her wa rd . co. uk

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Watch news Treasured timepieces, horological heirlooms and modern masterpieces WOR D S : RICHAR D B ROW N

Two tickets to a premiere at the BFI London Film Festival in partnership with American Express® To celebrate being the official time partner of the BFI and BFI London Film Festival in partnership with American Express®, taking place 8-19 October, IWC Schaffhausen is giving away two tickets to one of the festival’s red carpet premieres. To win the pair of tickets, email your name and telephone number to competitions@runwildgroup.co.uk with BFI London Film Festival in the subject line. The closing date for competition entries is 28 September 2014.

Four is the Magic Number Until last year, the best that watchmakers had come up with to counteract the effects of gravity on a watch’s precision was the tourbillon. Then Roger Dubuis presented the Excalibur Quatuor, the first timepiece to incorporate four sprung balances. By working in pairs, the sprung balances (the mechanism that provides a watch its pulse) compensate for the rate variations caused by changes in position. In watchmaking terms, the Excalibur Quatuor is one of the 21st century’s most significant innovations. The original turned heads and its latest interpretation is likely to do so even more. Excalibur Quatuor in titanium black DLC, £312,800, available at Harrods & Selfridges

Tickets only valid for a film screening within the 2014 BFI London Film Festival in partnership with American Express®. Film screening to be determined. Tickets are non-transferable. The competition is open to UK residents aged 18 or over and closes at 23:59 on 28 September 2014.The screening tickets are complimentary, carry no cash value and must not be re-sold. Employees and directors of IWC Schaffhausen and Runwild Media Group and their subsidiaries and affiliates, agents, dealers and their immediate family or household members are not eligible to enter. The winner of the prize must be willing to be photographed and published on official public media. IWC may revise the terms of this promotion from time to time and reserves the right to change.

ONE TO WATCH Each month we select our timepiece of the moment from the watch world’s most exciting creations:

It’s one the most iconic watches from one of the most iconic of watchmakers. This particular version of Patek Philippe’s Nautilus comes with a 60-minute counter and dual time zone mechanism, indicating both local time and the time at home Nautilus 5990/1A-001, £38,560, Patek Philippe (patek.com)

Tudor returns Enthusiasts need no longer travel to the continent to procure a Tudor timepiece. Re-entering the UK market after an 11-year hiatus, the watches will be available in 102 stores from 19 September. Our pick of the new collection? The Heritage Chrono Blue (£3,010); its original 1973 incarnation now sells at auction for more than £20,000. The modern version features a case that’s grown from 40mm to 42mm and a dial that now possesses three-dimensional hour markers. (tudorwatch.com) 39


Hart of the matter With 40 stores stretching the length of the country, Fraser Hart has been busy carving out a niche in the luxury watch and jewellery sector. Roger Baker talks brands, business and burgeoning times with company CEO Noel Coyle

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t’s fair to say that Noel Coyle has had a varied career. The man who now sits at the helm of Fraser Hart (and the Anthony Nicholas Group which owns it) has at various points worked in oil exploration, television and video production and FMCGs, before arriving in the watch and jewellery industry more than 20 years ago. CEO of Fraser Hart for the last seven years, Coyle has overseen a dramatic expansion, opening 10 stores across the country during a time when the economy was struggling with recession. Coyle splits his time between London and his home town of Dublin.

You managed to expand during a recession. How? We were able to trade reasonably well through the recession. The high-end watch sector stayed particularly resilient. I think it’s facing more challenges now, in the last six months, which is kind of contrary to what you would possibly think. We continued to open stores and stick to our model because the opportunity was there. We didn’t open as many stores as we would have foreseen back in 2007 but everything else fitted in in the way we expected it to. We still opened 10 stores during that period, which is very reasonable for a business of our size.

You acquired Fraser Hart in 2007. What made it such an attractive acquisition? It gave us an entry into the UK market and into a different level of business, the higherend watch and jewellery sector. We saw a gap in the market, an opportunity to build on the strong base that Fraser Hart already had to create a unique retail environment with the best brands and the highest customer service standards, a level the larger multiple retailers could not reach.

What accounts for the dip the industry has witnessed over the last six months? Central London seems to have been affected by a reduction in Chinese spending. I think the consistency in higher-end watch brand purchases has not been as strong in the last six months. The economy is on the up and sometimes that results in people looking over what they’re spending on, particularly when it comes to luxury spends. People start considering other areas of high spend that they have deferred for many years. This may cause a temporary blip in spending patterns but overall the luxury watch sector continues to be strong.

What distinguishes Fraser Hart from other watch and jewellery retailers? Essentially it’s about the service. We aim to be at the heart of every celebration. People in our industry are generally buying presents for life milestones or celebrations – significant events in people’s lives. Everything we do comes back to this. We make sure we have the best product selection and provide store environments and a level of service that really comes through to our customers.

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What will be the next biggest changes to the industry? The strongest five or six brands will continue getting stronger. There will be more consolidation. Some brands are moving towards mono-brand stores which, as a multi-brand retailer, causes us challenges. We also need to prepare and adapt for continued changes in multi-channel retailing.


The mayfair Magazine | Collection

What percentage of your business is watch related? About 40 per cent. We have a very strong diamond and bridal offer in addition to jewellery from leading international brands and our own exclusive lines. Which watch brand do you sell most of? Quantity-wise, Michael Kors. It’s been a phenomenon. In terms of luxury watches our biggest selling brand is Rolex. How do luxury brands successfully engage with social media? Brands need to learn not to be afraid of it, and not look at it as some kind of downmarket or volume market trend. We use social media to engage with our customers, to listen to their feedback and communicate product launches, events and developments. Our presence on social media sites is an integral part of our multi-channel business. What percentage of your watches do you sell online? It’s less than ten per cent; but that’s the same case for everybody. The online average for the watch and jewellery industry is around seven or eight per cent. Fashion sells a significant amount more online – but that’s understandable because it’s a different product. What’s the biggest risk you’ve ever taken in business? Acquiring Fraser Hart, but it was also the highlight of my career. When we acquired the business it was bigger than our existing operation. It was a new market

that we didn’t operate in, with a new set of product challenges. It was a risk but there have been huge rewards. What’s the biggest mistake you’ve ever made? I’ve made plenty. The thing is to identify [mistakes] and correct them; find new opportunities. Business moves so fast, meaning that you have to make decisions quickly. If you don’t, you get left behind. Which watch brand would you never stock? We have to look at what our product offering is and what fits into our portfolio. We can’t stock every brand. It’s about concentrating on the ones with the best representation in each particular segment. The thing you are most scared of is… Our biggest challenge is to maintain our niche and our relevance in the retail market in the face of continued consolidation and multi -channel developments. It’s also our biggest opportunity as we have, and will continue to develop, a fantastic team of people in every area of the business, driving Fraser Hart to ever higher standards. Which watch do you wear? At the moment a Rolex Daytona, but whatever collection I look at, I find a watch I want to wear. Where will Fraser Hart be in five years’ time? We will have grown by hopefully another 15 stores. We should be operating within the top 75 to 100 locations in the UK. We will be truly multi-channel, still providing outstanding service to our customers in every area. Fraser Hart, Bernstones, 30 Hatton Garden, EC1N 8DA, 020 7405 1606 (fraserhart.co.uk)

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Beauty | The Fashion | Themayfair mayfairMagazine Magazine

After dark The fashion and art world meet again in the form of Escada’s new collection, as the trend for art-inspired attire continues. The range draws inspiration from contemporary American artist James Turrell, with striking hues of bright pink and emerald green, while its new romantic floral print is reminiscent of classical paintings. Wide trouser legs give a nod to the 1980s, and nipped-in waistlines create a strong, elegant silhouette in this confident, feminine collection. Escada is available at Harrods (uk.escada.com)

Style update WORDS: MARIANNE DICK

Colour block Shoe in Once in a while, a collaboration comes along that sets the fashion world alight with excitement, and we predict that Olivia Palermo and Aquazzura’s ‘survival pack’ is about to ignite a sartorial explosion. The blogger and all-round style aficionado has teamed up with Edgardo Osorio to design a selection of six staple pieces, including these snakeskin pumps – our new object of desire. It goes without saying that we want a pair, now it’s just a case of getting our hands (and feet) on them. Snakeskin pumps, from a selection, Aquazzura x Olivia Palermo (net-a-porter.com)

Frank Smythson revolutionised the luxury market in 1908 when he designed his practical ‘Panama’ diary which was both durable and beautiful. Named after the famous style of hat, which is renowned for its lightness and ability to be rolled without losing its shape, the diary became a legend in its own right. Just over a century later, Smythson have translated its functional and stylish aesthetic into a range of handbags and accessories. The lightweight collection comes in a selection of bold colour blocks and clean, classic shapes. The East West zip tote is the ideal size for holding everything you might need for a typically busy day, and the fused suede lining adds an elegant touch. Panama East West Zip Tote, £595, Smythson of Bond Street, 40 New Bond Street, W1S (smythson.com)

Building society From runway to ready-to-wear, Burberry has launched an intriguing new collection which was first seen on the A/W14 catwalk and is inspired by the world’s greatest cities and skylines. The Prorsum pre-collection features a range of hand-drawn cityscapes, landmarks and maps designed in-house and printed on to bags, accessories and ready-to-wear items, fusing fashion with architecture to create an unusual result. In a selection of deep autumnal tones, these silk scarves are a chic accessory for when the nights get a little breezier, and are perfect for those who love to wander through the depths of the city (but may need a map to find their way home again). Scarves, £250, Burberry, 21-23 New Bond Street, W1S (uk.burberry.com)

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Creative sole The name Jimmy Choo has become synonymous with beautifully made, covetable footwear. We talk to Sandra Choi, the creative force behind the iconic British brand about her vision for its future w o r d s : K AT E R A C O V O L I S

T This page, from left: Sandra Choi (photo by Sean Thomas). RITA Tote, £795. CLOUD Evening Clutch, £950, both jimmy choo opposite page: sandra choi (photo by Sean Thomas)

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he first pair of shoes that Sandra Choi ever purchased for herself was a pair of Dr. Martens. Many might find this an interesting choice for the longstanding creative director of Jimmy Choo, the iconic British shoe brand that made a name for itself in the mid-1990s with its beautifully crafted stilettos. But, in fact, this utterly cool and slightly edgy selection for her first pair of shoes, offers a glimpse into Choi’s personal style; one that is always in fashion, believes in practicality, has a touch of edginess, but above all, is timeless. This too is telling of the evolution of Jimmy Choo since it was established in 1996 by Choi’s uncle, Mr Jimmy Choo himself, and Tamara Mellon, OBE. Its collections are classic but still capture that contemporary edge. It is truly a brand that even the most loyal customers never tire of; there is always something new, and always something that continues through each collection.

The brand’s current cruise collection, launching in mid-October this year embodies this ethos immaculately, as chic wedges are given a sporty makeover with rubber details on the sole, and snakeskin-clad sneakers make for a seriously glamorous way to go casual. Jimmy Choo’s iconic pointy-toe pump, Anouk, also receives a metallic makeover, while for men, penny loafers come with fluorescent orange soles – a playful way to update a classic. In fact, Jimmy Choo is just as much of a global phenomenon as it is a label – we need only look to the worldwide success it has enjoyed over the years as proof of this. The first shop opened on Motcomb Street in Belgravia, and was followed by two stores in New York City and Beverly Hills just two years later. Its stand-alone boutiques are present in nearly all of the fashion capitals of the world, including Paris, Rome and Tokyo, as 

‘Jimmy Choo is my life, I’ve lived and breathed it my whole career’ – Sandra Choi


The mayfair Magazine | Fashion

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The mayfair Magazine | Fashion

well as being stocked by department stores in all major cities. This month, Mayfair will, after much anticipation, welcome its Bond Street flagship back, with the reopening of a new maison-style boutique, designed with the David Collins Studio. The store will house the entire women’s collection over three shoe and accessory-filled floors. ‘This unique new home for Jimmy Choo offers a “Townhouse” of beautiful rooms,’ says Simon Rawlings, creative director of David Collins Studio. ‘They unfold and deliver on layered luxury, beautiful displays, flattering lighting all in a grand, glamour-drenched setting unique to Jimmy Choo.’ Choi has witnessed and shaped the incredible growth and evolution of Jimmy Choo first-hand, having started at the company from the beginning as its creative director. ‘I grew up with a passion for design and art,’ says Choi. ‘Shoes didn’t become part of my life until I was 18 and when I started working with my uncle. I was 24 when Jimmy Choo was established. I feel like the past 17 years have been my real education, I have lived and breathed the Jimmy Choo brand for my whole career, it feels like it is part of me. My uncle very much taught me to appreciate craftsmanship.’ Choi was Choo’s protégé, as she learned the craft of beautiful shoes working alongside her uncle, from perfecting all aspects of the art of creating beautiful shoes, to designing, pattern-making and stitching. ‘In shoes, millimetres matter,’ says Choi, who is not merely referring to the height of a stiletto heel. ‘Shoes and accessories need to be functional at the end of the day, so detailing is very important. It is, I guess, what sets a designer apart from an artist. I am detail obsessed!’ It’s easy to spot a Jimmy Choo shoe because of this detail Choi refers to. The way the point of its iconic pumps are shaped at just the right

angle, the elegant proportion of its heels that are just the right width and cut all combine to create some of the most coveted and famous shoes in the world. ‘The most important advice I have been given are two things: the first is to believe in what you do, and the second thing is to make beautiful things,’ says Choi. If you need further convincing, however, simply look at style icons such as Princess Diana, the Duchess of Cambridge and countless celebrities who frequently grace the red carpet in Jimmy Choo’s unmistakable designs. Even though Jimmy Choo has become a truly global company, it is still one that has kept its heritage at the core of its message. ‘Jimmy Choo is a British brand with very strong roots in London. I am inspired by the city every day,’ says Choi. To mark the opening of the Bond Street store in midSeptember, Choi has created a limited-edition version of the iconic Candy bag, imprinted with a red telephone box. ‘It’s funny because when I return to London after work trips, the things that immediately put a smile on my face are seeing London’s post boxes, red phone booths and black cabs – then I know I am home!’ Jimmy Choo, 27 New Bond Street, W1S (jimmychoo.com)

opposite page: clockwise from top-left: ANOUK Pump, £425. HOURY Pump, £550. GALA Flats, £375. DWYER Ankle boot, £895. this page: Exclusive CANDY bag for New Bond Street in Acrylic, £595. all jimmy choo (jimmychoo.com). below: jimmy choo in Beverly hills

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Image of

perfection

Never underestimate the power of a simple, beautifully cut coat, or a classic white shirt. This month, we bring you day-tonight classics that will never go out of style p h o t o g r a p h e r : r a c h e ll sm i t h s t y l i s t: n a t a l i e r e a d

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The mayfair Magazine | Fashion

Opposite: Dress, from a selection, Sofia French (notjustalabel.com). 18ct white gold with diamonds earrings, £20,500, and 18ct white gold with diamonds cuff, £65,000, both Garrard (0870 871 8888). This page: Dress, £650, Issa (issalondon.com). Bag, £695, Escada Sport (uk.escada.com)

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Fashion | The mayfair Magazine

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This page: Jacket, £625, and skirt, £260, both Emporio Armani (armani.com). Blouse, £299, Issa at The Shop at Bluebird (theshopatbluebird.com) Opposite: Shirt, £299, Marni at The Shop at The Bluebird. Skirt, £1,000, Marni (020 7245 9520). Shoes, £320, Diane Von Furstenberg (dvf.com)


This page: Dress, £844, Rochas, (rochas.com). 18kt white gold Zebra Bracelet, from £38,000, 18kt white gold Lock Bracelet, from £15,000, and 18kt white gold earrings, from £14,000, all Shamballa Jewels available from Harrods (020 7730 1234). Bag, from a selection (dsquared2.com) Opposite: Coat, £1,152, Maison Martin Margiela at The Shop at Bluebird (theshopatbluebird.com). Shirt, £375, Escada (uk.escada.com). Leather jeans, £650, Kelly Simpkin London (kellysimpkin.com). Boots, £250, Kandee (kandeeshoes.com)


The mayfair Magazine | Fashion

Makeup: Harriet Hadfield using St Tropez and MAC Hair: David Barbieri 53


From Italy, with love For garments that are designed to be worn under clothes, La Perla has given a new meaning to lingerie over the past six decades. We find out how the brand has come all the way from the porticoes of Bologna Words: Bethan Rees ABOVE Images © La Perla

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ontrary to the definition of lingerie, not all under-garments are simply something to be hidden under your clothes. This is true for La Perla, at least, the heritage lingerie brand established in 1954, when founder Ada Masotti, a stylish, enterprising housewife, opened a corsetry laboratory. This year marks a series of momentous occasions for the Italian lingerie house; with its 60th anniversary, the unveiling of a sleek new flagship store on Old Bond Street featuring a made-to-measure service, and the launch of the new menswear concept during Pitti Uomo.

‘Throughout its history, La Perla has become a reference point for women across the world with different styles and backgrounds, but who are joined by a common desire to enhance their femininity,’ says Joelle Pellegrin, the European director for the company. But it is La Perla’s beginnings that are the most telling of how lingerie became a true object of desire. The history of lingerie is peppered with rules of class and politics. At one point, it was reserved for the use of aristocracy, and in the 1960s bra burning was the emblem of liberation for women – although it would be a travesty 


The mayfair Magazine | Fashion

this page: Photographer: Marino Parisotto Rizzoli: La Perla - Lingerie & Desire. Art Direction: Sergio Pappalettera/ Studio Prodesign Š 2012 RCS Libri S.p.A, Milan

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to watch a La Perla creation in smoulders. In 1812, Englishman John Leavers built a machine which produced lace at a quality comparable with delicate handiwork. The British government banned the export of these machines at the time; but three English workers smuggled some of the devices into Calais, France.

‘Women started to recognise that beautiful underwear was as important as outerwear’ By the 1820s Calais’ lace workshops were flourishing, and it was this material that enthralled Masotti; it would be the only lace she used for her future designs. She earned her nickname ‘Golden Scissors’ in the workshop where she trained to be a corsetiere. Growing up in Bologna, Italy, she spent her days surrounded by fabric and soon began her career in one of the many workshops in the city. In 1954, she opened her very own atelier with her husband, Tonio, and son, Alberto. ‘The corsetiere’s trade coursed through her blood; she knew how to create lingerie that made women feel beautiful at the mere thought of wearing it,’ says Isabella Cardinali, the former editor-in-chief of La Perla magazine, in Rizzoli’s new tome La Perla: Lingerie & Desire. Masotti delivered her first lingerie sets door-to-door in red velvet-lined suitcases, similar to those used by jewellers, and this is where the brand’s name originated; named after the most feminine jewel of all: the pearl. Masotti was a woman who was in tune with fashion trends and embedded these into her designs; her versatility and attention to detail is one of the reasons why La Perla has become such an enduring and successful fashion house. ‘La Perla has succeeded in creating a strong link between lingerie and clothing,’ says Pellegrin. When bright colours were the rage throughout the 1960s, Masotti translated this look into multi-coloured floral and plaid lingerie, and also

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The mayfair Magazine | Fashion

entered the world of beachwear in 1965. The 1970s saw feminine, loose-fitting designs in lace, silk and sheer fabrics, followed by under-jacket bodysuits of the 1980s, made to be seen. It was at this time that women started to recognise that beautiful underwear was as important as outerwear. By this point, La Perla was at the forefront of the world of elegant lingerie. When the 1990s arrived, the brand’s campaigns shot dramatic, glamorous, powerful women, and the boundary between public and private dress codes was blurred as models took to balconies and gardens donning rich, lace corsets. With this came a new form of freedom; women were welcome to expose their lingerie, if it was couture. ‘Women have a special relationship with lingerie, one of complicity, because it comes into play with intimate, delicate aspects of femininity. La Perla’s lingerie today is often something that can be worn as outerwear, and our consumers have a further reason to allow themselves that extra something special,’ says Pellegrin. But why is our choice of lingerie now so important? ‘Lingerie has become extremely important in defining any woman’s look. It’s not only the “secret” finishing touch to her style, but it also allows her to express her own personality and accentuate the best parts of her body. If accessories serve to add that special touch to a woman’s look, then lingerie serves to add a seductive twist,’ Pellegrin reveals. La Perla’s global success could be credited to Masotti and the brand’s ability to tailor its collections to consumer needs, with supreme knowledge of the female body and skill to make a woman feel beautiful, but also to women who care about what they wear underneath their clothes. The brand, now under the direction of Pacific Global Management Group, continues to uphold Masotti’s legacy. Lingerie will forever be a part of our conscious sartorial decision for underwear and, outwear; and sometimes, it’s just too beautiful to hide. La Perla, 9 Old Bond Street, W1S (020 7399 0620; laperla.com)

THIS page: La Perla SS14 campaign, shot by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott; OPPOSITE, From top: 9 Old Bond Street La Perla Boutique. © La Perla. (Photo: Mary Rozzi); Rizzoli: La Perla - Lingerie & Desire (Art Direction: Sergio Pappalettera/Studio Prodesign © 2012 RCS Libri S.p.A, Milan); 9 Old Bond Street La Perla Boutique. © La Perla.

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The Themayfair mayfairMagazine Magazine||Interiors Fashion

Highland fling

Style spy

Following a day’s shoot in the countryside, it’s hard to beat the sensation of slipping on a silk dressing gown and having a tumbler filled with something strong, of a glowing amber colour. Bespoke gunmaker Holland & Holland has embodied this traditional British pastime in its latest A/W14 collection, which embraces rural life, and is inspired by the Scottish Highlands. To add to an already exciting collection, the brand has also teamed up with Dalmore Whisky to create a chess set exclusive to Harrods. (hollandandholland.com)

WORDS: bethan rees

Aesop’s fables The scent of Aesop’s latest fragrance will transport you to the intensely colourful souks of Marrakech. Having tweaked the original Marrakech formula from 2005, the new fragrance, Marrakech Intense, was created in collaboration with perfume designer Barnabé Fillion. His studies in botany and phytotherapy, and memories of homemade remedies and drinks, inspired him to create this gorgeous aroma. Egyptian jasmine imbues the spray with notes of bergamot and neroli, a blend which is spicy, yet fresh; the perfect bouquet to carry you into autumn. Marrakech Intense Eau de Toilette, £53 for 50ml, Aesop (aesop.com)

Perfect pair Quintessential functionality The backpack is a fashion staple that has stood the test of time as being forever functional. And now Fleming London has created a collection which is perfect for work and play. Handmade in England using the finest vegetable-tanned leather and polished silver details from Italy, the bags come in red, blue, black and white. Carnaby Backpack, £300, Fleming London (fleminglondon.com)

A gentleman’s quest for the perfect versatile shoe may now come to an end, thanks to Harrys of London, as these two styles are the perfect companion for those with a busy schedules. The classic black velvet Shelley loafers would look as good with a tuxedo as they would with a pair of laidback chinos at brunch, and the Downing calf leather shoes in dark brown are a great shade to take you from work to leisure. Shelley Velvet Black (left), £395, Downing Calf (right), £295, Harrys of London, 59 South Audley Street, W1K (harrysoflondon.com)

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BEAUTIFULLY BESPOKE Beautiful handmade shoes have always come at a price. But bespoke, custom-made ones? That’s a whole new ball game. Nick Hammond sets off to the land of English shoemakers to determine whether all the fuss is a load of old cobblers – or the work of master craftsmen…

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here are shoes. There are smart shoes. And then there are bespoke shoes. I didn’t know the latter existed until I bumped into Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling. I mean, I knew one could buy expensive, handmade shoes; but shoes made to match the idiosyncrasies of one’s very own toes?

Surely not… A veil has been lifted from my eyes. At Tony and Dean’s invitation, I ventured forth to Northampton – for centuries, the bastion of English shoes – to witness the process firsthand. Inside the Tardis-like building which houses the Gaziano & Girling factory – modern, 

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all images courtesy of PETER HAYNES

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spotless and efficient – a small number of staff are each engaged in their own unique duties. Some are carefully nailing shiny brass tacks into the soles of recently moulded uppers; some are cutting and preparing unique leathers made from calfskin, alligator, stingray or pigskin. Yet more are working intricate machinery for different stages of the painstaking stitching – and there is even an expert polisher who spends his days adding layer upon layer of lacquer to give each pair of Gaziano & Girling shoes an incredible lustre and bloom. Custom-made shoes run into many thousands of pounds – per pair – to buy. Benchmade shoes – which are essentially an inbetween stage, with lots of intricate tailoring but without the final bespoke trappings – can still cost in excess of £1,000. If you’re in the market to buy, don’t forget to build in a lead-time; creating shoes specifically for you is not a quick process. Expect a three-month lead for benchmade and a six-month one for bespoke. ‘I started off as an apprentice shoemaker myself,’ explained Tony as he dragged me away from the factory floor and to his design studio upstairs. ‘I worked my way up and eventually started working for a firm which had a small bespoke clientele. And I discovered my passion for designing, then crafting these beautiful shoes. I just loved making them from scratch. When Dean and I met, we were both keen to start something new and that’s how things got started.’ In just eight short years, Gaziano & Girling has taken the luxury shoe market by storm, and it’s easy to see why footwear made here has become highly desirable. After half an hour in the allure of these shoes, I began to covet them myself. There are chestnut, raven-wing-black, even pea-green shoes and boots of exquisite design wherever the eye falls. Their contours and curves, shine and patina are artistic, sensual even. In a short time, the company has gone from a handful of loyal clients to a portfolio that stretches from the USA to Japan. Frequently travelling to personally handle

bespoke fittings, both Tony and Dean get instant feedback on new designs and styles. ‘We hire a suite in a nice hotel and organise a series of fittings,’ Tony explains. ‘Our clients come along, choose from a selection of our shoes, or suggest something new they’d like and we take detailed measurements of their feet, not just standard shoe size. Then we’ll go back, begin work and in a few weeks have a prototype for them to try. I usually catch up with them again on my next trip, have a further fitting and finalise the shoe before it is finished, polished and packed off.’

‘If you’re in the market to buy, don’t forget to build in a leadtime; creating shoes specifically for you is not a quick process’ As an example of this personalised service, my feet were measured carefully and an ‘off the shelf’ pair were found that matched my wide, but not particularly big, feet. The effect was extraordinary. I was staggered to be told I have spent a lifetime effectively buying shoes a size too big. Even these Gaziano & Girling shoes, not designed for my feet but merely chosen as a close fit, were a revelation. Tony smiled. ‘We get that a lot,’ he said. ‘People can’t believe the difference.’ This summer, Gaziano & Girling were proud to open a brand new flagship store in Savile Row. At this prestigious address, travelling clients and those searching for inspiration can drop in, have a drink, take the advice of experts and select the most exquisite footwear they are ever likely to own. As I head reluctantly for the exit, it’s clear to me that bespoke shoemaking is the Rolls-Royce of the foot; the Savile Row suit of the shoe. The glistening beauties being slowly crafted behind me are the crème de la crème. Gaziano & Girling Ltd, 39 Savile Row,
W1S (020 7439 8717; sales@gazianogirling.com)


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A cut above With fabric sourced from around the globe, design a nod to the Continent and tailoring done in the East End, Drake’s ties, pocket squares and now shirts are truly world class words: stephen doig

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here are myriad reasons that London, despite furious competition from New York, Milan and Paris, remains the heart of menswear. Not only do our tailoring traditions stretch back centuries, thanks to the august establishment that is Savile Row and St James’s, but the city’s creative respect heritage, craft and a sense of artisanal integrity above hifalutin trends and fast fashion. And this sense of refinement is felt never more keenly than at tie and accessories specialist Drake’s, which takes up a pride-of-place location in Mayfair. It’s in Drake’s handsome, tile-lined atelier across town in Shoreditch that the brand’s beautifully made ties, bow ties and scarves in the richest colourways and the most polished of details, are given full reign. It’s an aesthetic and sensibility that’s about to move into a new era, thanks to the label’s move into bespoke shirting, as well as the outpost in the Shoreditch area. ‘It’s an exciting time,’ says creative director Michael Hill. ‘We’ve always manufactured in the area, so it feels right to open an atelier in east London.’ It was in 1977 that Michael Drake, after scouring the globe for the most beautiful fabrics, launched a range of

handmade

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scarves, swiftly followed by ties and pocket squares in the most luscious fabrics and colourways. It’s heartening to note that to this day, each tie is entirely handmade in Haberdasher Street in the East End, using the most elegant materials. ‘The new luxury really is about craft, artisanship and the feeling that someone has spent time creating something,’ says Hill. ‘Increasingly, people are interested in how something is made, and want to go to the source. It’s wonderful that we have a compelling story in that regard.’

‘The new luxury really is about craft, artisanship and the feeling that someone has spent time creating something’ Of the launch of the new store, Hill says; ‘Many of the people who work for us, creating the handmade pieces, have done so for years, and many live in the area. Those people really are the heart and soul of our business.’ And they are very much the hands of it, too, as Hill details. Each tie is entirely handmade by skilled craftspeople who have been doing it for up to 30 years. ‘Everything is hand cut, hand stitched and made in-house. That skill and expertise is invaluable. We like to think of our ties


The mayfair Magazine | Fashion

in the way that someone would make a bespoke suit, so three dimensional, soft fitting, designed to work fluidly with the body and, above all, comfortable. If you’re making a tie by machine, you take that element out of the process, so there’s a sense of flatness to it. Drake’s ties have that hand that lends a sensitivity.’ It’s this same assured sense of handcrafted expertise that has prompted the brand to launch a range of handmade shirting under the label Cleeve of London for Drake’s, which is the first time that the codes and DNA of the Drake’s house will be translated into a standalone shirting line, created by skilled shirtmakers in Somerset. ‘Making our own shirts means that we’re making a serious commitment to manufacturing, and we feel it’s the right long-term ideal for our brand,’ says Hill. ‘There’s going to be a lot of synergy between the ties and the shirting, and the same sensibility.’ What perhaps marks Drake’s out above other tailoring brands – and London boasts a great deal – is the fact that its pieces don’t adhere to rules of stiff, rigid formality. Instead, Drake’s ties come in innovative silk knits, boldly striped, or boast pocket squares and scarves in vivid ikat

print. This, says Hill, will translate fluidly into the shirting range. ‘The shirts are smart but it’s not just about being classically formal. Of course we will have dress shirts, but we’ll also have shirts in chambray, linen, Oxford shirts. There’s a softness to them and they’re more comfortable.’ The focus on versatility is key to the brand, knowing as Hill does that today’s dapper Savile Row chap is just as likely to mix his tailoring with his off-duty wardrobe. ‘The shirts are designed to be worn with a tie and look great, but can also be worn with a soft, unstructured jacket, or with a suit, or just with chinos. We’re focused on a sensibility that isn’t just about that stiff Jermyn Street look, but about something a touch nuanced, with subtlety.’ And when it’s time to put down the tools at the Mayfair flagship store and cut a dash through the area’s haunts, where does Hill beat a path to? ‘I love St James’s and Mount Street. There’s such a sense of history there. Mayfair’s also rich in fantastic gardens and squares too, which are great to escape to during the day. Mount Street Gardens is a particular favourite.’ And what better way to drink in the handsome environs than in an elegant Drake’s shirt and tie? Drake’s, 3 Clifford Street, W1S (drakes.com)

Patterned tie range shot photo: Jamie Ferguson. Model Lookbook shot in atelier with rolls of fabric: Jonathan Daniel Pryce

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9-16 NOVEMBER THE O2

THE WORld’s tOp PlAyERs. THE BESt SEAtS IN THE ARENA. THE REAl VIp ExPERIENcE. GEt YOUR OFFICIAL HOSpItALItY pACKAGES tODAY www.match-hospitality.com +44 (0) 20 7647 5920 or tennis@match-hospitality.com The players shown are for illustrative purposes only. Qualification and participation subject to ATP rules. Images courtesy of Getty Images and Red Photographic.


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Bespoke double-breasted suit in wool and cashmere flannel, greatcoat with brown and cream houndstooth check, shirt in brown mini check, brown patterned knitted tie. Hand-tailored by Gieves & Hawkes at 1 Savile Row. The Private Tailoring Room, 1 Savile Row. © Bruno Ehrs (from One Savile Row, Gieves & Hawkes: The Invention of the English Gentleman, published by Flammarion)

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nce upon a time in the heart of Mayfair, the Right Honourable Richard Earl of Burlington named a new row of buildings after his beloved wife Countess Dorothy Boyle (née Savile), creating a London address which would become the origin of the bespoke British suit and a mecca for men’s style. In October, No.1 Savile Row’s longstanding occupier Gieves & Hawkes will release a stunning new tome, paying homage to the incredible craftsmanship and attention to detail behind its immaculate suits; and more recently, bespoke shoemaker Gaziano & Girling opened its new flagship, illustrating how the street continues its constant evolution. Centuries of sartorial legends lie behind the unassuming façades of Savile Row, and as the birthplace of both the tuxedo and the bowler hat, seldom has one street had such an effect on the course of cultural history. If you think of an iconic suit, chances are one of the artisans on the Row had something to do with it. From Fred Astaire’s white tie and tails to Bryan Ferry’s black sequinned jacket, a lot can happen in one area. Much like the workshops that lie beneath the exquisite showrooms, there’s a certain air of mystery surrounding the street. Stories of curious clientele, buttons concealing silk maps and l’apprentis terribles are stitched tightly between the seams of the Row and make up the rich and colourful fabric of its legacy. Each building has a story, each tailor has a style – The Mayfair Magazine takes a stroll down Savile Row. One Savile Row, Gieves & Hawkes: The Invention of the English Gentleman, Foreword by Harold Koda, text by Marcus Binney, Simon Crompton, Colin McDowell, Peter Tilley and Alasdair Macleod. Available in October, published by Flammarion

a STITCH IN TIME words: marianne dick

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‘There will always be a market for the best, so I think the future looks good for Savile Row’ – Richard James

Ede & Ravenscroft 

Anderson & Sheppard 

Thought to be the oldest tailors in the world, Ede & Ravenscroft has recently embarked on its fourth century in the industry – with an illustrious reputation preceding them for dressing the Royal family, the judiciary and university graduates.

A traditional establishment, Anderson & Sheppard solely offers a bespoke service, featuring its signature natural body line and a preference for high armholes. The late Alexander McQueen also worked as an apprentice at the tailor, where his excellent natural skills in cutting and tailoring marked the beginning of his passionate and successful fashion career.

Spencer Hart Regarded as a ‘rock and roll’ fashion house, Spencer Hart’s achingly cool aesthetic has long been a favourite of the glitterati – its most recent customers include the likes of silver-screen heroes James Bond and Sherlock Holmes, otherwise known as Daniel Craig and Benedict Cumberbatch.

Image: Christopher Simon Sykes

Chester Barrie  Simon Ackerman revolutionised the nature of the Savile Row suit when he opened his quintessentially British store in 1937 – offering a ready-to-wear line which made formal dressing more accessible.

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The mayfair Magazine | Feature

IMAGE COURTESY OF Nicholas AndrewS

Norton & Sons 

Richard James  The first of the ‘new establishment’ tailors, Richard James caused much controversy when he moved on to the Row in 1992, introducing the concept of a modern, spacious store, a boldly fashion-forward approach and the initially unpopular weekend opening hours.

One of the oldest tailors on the Row, Norton & Sons established itself as a sporting tailor, creating sleek suits for robust outdoor men. Now, under the guidance of creative director Patrick Grant, the traditional tailoring house is one of the most prevalent in the changing future of great British menswear.

Henry Poole & Co  Ozwald Boateng  Chittleborough & Morgan  Roy Chittleborough and Joe Morgan were the craftsmen behind Nutters, the store of the infamous Tommy Nutter, the original ‘rebel on the Row’ and brainchild behind some of the most iconic suits of the 1960s and 1970s.

Ozwald Boateng’s trademark style is a sartorial reflection of his wildly confident and charismatic personality, combining traditional craftsmanship with a fashionable edge. The shop exudes Boateng’s personal style perfectly, housing bespoke, semi-bespoke, ready-towear, accessories and luggage.

Apart from a relatively brief sojourn to nearby Cork Street during a period of redevelopment work, Henry Poole & Co has been on the Row since 1806, making it one of the pioneers of the Savile Row suit and the birthplace of the ever-classic dinner jacket.

Image: by Jamie Morgan

IMAGE COURTESY OF HENRY POOLE & CO

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Cad & the Dandy

Kilgour

Fresh-faced ex-bankers James Sleater and Ian Meiers moved into No.13 Savile Row on 13 June last year, and celebrated the event by making an entire three-piece bespoke suit on the premises. The 13-step process, which included making the fabric, was in order to demonstrate their new wave of tailoring.

Despite the numerous name changes since its doors opened in 1880, Kilgour’s modern aesthetic has remained a constant. Priding itself on learning from the past but always looking to the future, Kilgour has dressed some of fashion’s most influential men, including Karl Lagerfeld.

Martin Nicholls 

IMAGE COURTESY OF Henry Herbert Tailors (henryherbert.com)

Martin Nicholls’ particular type of ‘sartorial couture’ harks back to the hunting heritage of the Savile Row suit. He opts for a nipped-in waist, flared skirt and sculptured sleeves for definitive-yetunderstated elegance.

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 Maurice Sedwell Bespoke Currently under the ownership of Professor Andrew Ramroop, the first tailor in history to receive an OBE, Maurice Sedwell is a traditional tailoring house committed to understated elegance and attention to detail. These qualities have earned them loyal customers and utmost respect in the industry.

 Henry Herbert

 Dege & Skinner

Set up by Charlie Baker-Collingwood, the unconventional Henry Herbert tailors travel to meet their clients on the back of custombuilt Vespas, and prefer a broken suit – one in which the jacket fabric is different to the trousers.

Dege & Skinner, which celebrate its 150-year anniversary next year, were the first tailors on Savile Row to offer a bespoke, in-house shirtmaking service for a completely custom-made outfit.

IMAGE COURTESY OF DEGE & SKINNER


The mayfair Magazine | Feature

IMAGE COURTESY OF SCABAL

 Noden & Winsor On the more contemporary end of the Savile Row spectrum sits Noden & Winsor with its modern take on classic cuts for the bright, young and style-conscious. Its suits are made in England, and houses more than 5,000 cloths, which are manufactured in British mills. The tailors also offers sumptuous bespoke numnahs and show rugs for horses, so your equine companion can look just as fashionforward as you.

Scabal  Originally a cloth merchant, Scabal’s speciality is its impeccable range of materials, including those with fragments of diamond, gold and platinum woven through. For the ultimate bespoke attire, Scabal also offers a button-engraving service and can weave your initials into your chosen fabric.

‘Nothing else feels like a bespoke suit. When you finally put it on after the various adjustments through the fitting process it empowers you’ – Mehmet Ali, design director, Hardy Amies

Henry Bailey  Established in 1875, a Henry Bailey bespoke suit is the epitome of English elegance. Its signature style is focussed on flattering the body, providing maximum comfort as well as exceptional attention to detail – in the form of horn or mother of pearl buttons, hand-sewn button-holes and a choice of more than 6,000 fabrics.

IMAGE COURTESY OF Henry Bailey Bespoke Tailors

Huntsman  Renowned for its distinctive house tweeds, Huntsman has been a resident of the Row since 1919. Take note of its stags’ heads next time you’re in the vicinity, they were left by a customer on his way to lunch in 1921 and have since become a part of the Huntsman family. 71


image courtesy of Glazier Publicity & Design Ltd 2010

Richard Anderson

Hardy Amies  Hardy Amies had a life full of fantastic achievements – from being appointed the Queen’s official dressmaker and designing the costumes for Stanley Kubrick’s iconic film 2001: A Space Odyssey to his memorable sartorial advice in his book, ABC of Men’s Fashion and his signature martinis – a true icon of British style whose legacy lives on through his Savile Row suits.

In 2001, Richard Anderson and Brian Lishak caused a stir by being the first bespoke tailors to open on the Row in 50 years, offering an innovative take on traditional tailoring, as well as a full ready-to-wear range and complementary accessories line.

‘Sometimes fashion catches up with heritage, but heritage is always present as an undeniable quality and value’ – William Skinner, managing director, Dege & Skinner Manning & Manning 

image courtesy of Eddie Wrey for Gieves & Hawkes

A family affair, Manning & Manning is a father-son collaboration between Bryan Manning and his son Timothy who joined in 1997. Their joined expertise brings a twodimensional element to the business – combining the best parts of tradition and technology.

 Gieves & Hawkes Pioneers in men’s clothing, Gieves & Hawkes has comfortably held the prestigious title of Royal Tailors since 1809, producing some of the monarchy’s most iconic outfits, and earning it one of the most the prestigious addresses, at No.1 Savile Row. 72


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 Davies & Son

BEST OF THE REST

Owned by Alan Bennett, Davies & Son has held up the traditions of Savile Row tailoring since establishing over 200 years ago. The company also incorporates James & James, Wells of Mayfair and Fallan & Harvey.

No. 9: Jasper Littman (jasperlittman.com) No. 9-10: Fusion Tailoring (fusiontailoring.com) No.. 9-10: King & Allen (kingandallen.co.uk)

Hidalgo Brothers

No. 9-10: Alexandra Wood Bespoke (alexandrawoodbespoke.co.uk)

Marco Hidalgo began learning the art of tailoring from his uncle and cousins in Ecuador, before perfecting his skills at Norton & Sons, Savile Row. In 2007, Marco, who is an expert in working with fur and leather, and his brother Ramon opened their own establishment just a few doors down the road.

No. 9-10: Henry Bailey (henrybailey.co.uk) No. 12: Steed Bespoke (steed.co.uk) No. 13: James Levett (jameslevett.com) No. 13: Lee Marsh (leemarsh.co.uk) No. 13: Strickland & Sons (stricklandandsons.co.uk)

 Alexander McQueen Sarah Burton described the opening of the Alexander McQueen flagship on Savile Row as a ‘homecoming’ for the brand. McQueen began his fashion journey as an apprentice at Anderson & Sheppard, learning the craft before taking the industry by storm and cementing his name as a rebel and a genius.

No. 13: Stowers Bespoke (stowersbespoke.co.uk)

No. 31: Mark Marengo (markmarengo.com) No. 37: Nick Tentis (nicktentis.com) No. 38: Phillip Alexander (phillipalexander.co.uk) No. 40: 40 Savile Row (40savilerow.co.uk)

image courtesy of Alexander McQueen

No. 34-35: Gary Anderson (garyanderson.com)

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The mayfair Magazine | Interiors

Relax in style Creating a home spa can be an exhausting, challenging process; having to source multiple designers for the different stages and areas of the project. In 2003, Alix Lawson and Charlotte Robb, created the company Lawson Robb as a response to this absent cohesion between architecture and interior design. They wanted to provide an inclusive design service which tailors to the tastes and needs of their clients, and recently showcased their talents on a Grade II listed Mayfair residence. The basement spa featured a swimming pool, sauna and steam rooms; the perfect place to unwind. (lawsonrobb.com)

Interiors news FINISHING TOUCH These celebratory glasses from the new With Love Gold Collection by Vera Wang for Wedgwood are perfect for toasting an evening of fine dining with friends, or a keepsake gift for a special couple. Toasting Flutes (set of two), £50, Vera Wang for Wedgwood (wedgwood.co.uk)

A bespoke Mayfair spa, another ‘antique of the future’ from Linley, and wallpaper inspired by classic flooring – September’s interiors news celebrates both the unusual and the individual words: MARIANNE DICK

Amazing grace David Linley’s timeless Grace Cabinet is the only object you’ll ever need in your dressing room. Part of the Extraordinary Furniture Collection, the exquisitely grooved grey Eucalyptus shell reveals a pearly interior, with enough drawers and displays to house the finest jewels and cosmetics. You can easily imagine iconic beauties past and future applying their lipstick before the mirror, in anticipation of an evening of glamour. Grace Cabinet, £120,000, Linley (davidlinley.com)

Wall to wall Farrow & Ball’s new Parquet wallpaper collection features a bold zigzag design inspired by the traditional flooring. It adds a certain avantgarde pizazz to a room; however we don’t recommend pasting wallpaper on to your floorboards. Wallpaper, £105, Farrow & Ball (farrow-ball.com)

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here is nowhere in the world quite like Mayfair. From the leafy landscape of The Mount Street Gardens, to world-renowned art galleries and Michelin-starred restaurants, Mayfair truly has it all. But above all, it is both the local and global businesses that choose to be present here, residents who live here and the people who work in the area that create a unique sense of community. It is with great pleasure to welcome you to The Mayfair Awards 2014. This year’s awards will continue to highlight the best in class, from fine-dining to the best local spot for an after-work drink. With a specially curated list of nominees by our panel of judges who know Mayfair inside and out, we invite you to contribute your vote to decide which of the nominees should win the title as best in their field. Go online and vote for your favourite places, and you will be entered into a draw to win a luxury holiday courtesy of Small Luxury Hotels of the World™. We would also like to give special thanks to our headline sponsor, Pastor Real Estate, our reception sponsor, Grosvenor and our venue sponsor, The Ritz London. We wish you luck! – Kate Racovolis,The Mayfair Magazine

The Panel

Andrew Love Chairman and Deputy Chairman at The Ritz Club and The Ritz London

Susan Cohen Head of sales and lettings Pastor Real Estate

Jenny Packham Director of Jenny Packham

Charles Saumarez Smith OBE Secretary and Chief Executive of the Royal Academy of Arts

William Asprey Founder of William & Son

Haydn Cooper Director, Mayfair Grosvenor

Arjun Waney Restaurateur

Sponsored by:

Reception Sponsor PHOTO of Charles Saumarez Smith OBE by Benedict Johnson

Headline sponsor

Venue Sponsor


The Categories Favourite Public Space: Grosvenor Square Berkeley Square The Mount Street Gardens Brown Hart Gardens Mayfair Library

Best Afternoon Tea: The Ritz Claridge’s Four Seasons Park Lane Brown’s Hotel Sketch

Most Inspiring Shop Front of 2014: Fenwick of Bond Street Roksanda Ilincic William & Son Anya Hindmarch Christian Louboutin

Best Hotel: The Ritz Claridge’s The Connaught The Dorchester The InterContinental Park Lane

Best Specialist Store: James Purdey & Sons Holland & Holland Globe-Trotter William & Son Thomas Goode & Co.

Best Speciality Food and Beverage Store: Allens of Mayfair Sautter Ladurée Hedonism Wine Haig Club

Favourite Coffee: Everbean Taylor St Baristas The Mount Street Deli Rose Bakery at Dover Street Market H R Higgins

Restaurant Experience of the Year: Gymkhana Le Gavroche Scott’s Roka Pollen Street Social Hélène Darozze at The Connaught Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester Langhan’s Brasserie Novikov Le Boudin Blanc

Best Interiors Boutique: Linley Anna Casa Ralph Lauren Home Hermès Colefax & Fowler

Sponsored by

Best Art Gallery: Marlborough Fine Art Timothy Taylor Gallery Gagosian Gallery Richard Green Hauser & Wirth

Best Tailor: Richard James Anderson & Sheppard Hardy Amies Gieves & Hawkes Chester Barrie

Favourite Local Pub: The Running Horse The Punchbowl The Audley The Guinea Grill Ye Grapes

Best for Business Breakfast: Cecconi’s HIX Mayfair The Arts Club 34 Morton’s

www.MayfairAwards.com Media partner


Hybrid theory It’s a head-turning supercar with astounding performance and incredible energy efficiency... Has BMW revolutionised the humble electric-hybrid car with its futuristic i8? w o r d s : r icha r d ya r r o w

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The mayfair Magazine | Motoring

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ourtesy of BMW, I’m on a private jet, all leather and wood veneer, heading from Farnborough Airport to Inverness in the Highlands of Scotland. The car company’s PR manager will later say the experience was about ‘getting in the mindset of the customer’ who will buy the BMW i8. It’s the German brand’s all-new plug-in hybrid supercar and the reason this very select group of Her Majesty’s Motoring Media is flying north. The lone flight attendant – the plane is so small it only needs one – is handing out copies of the BMW i magazine. The cover reveals it’s Issue #1 of what is clearly intended to become a regular publication. It’s the size and thickness of a glossy lifestyle monthly; hundreds of beautifullooking pages to explain every element of the i8, but essentially one big advert. That such a publication exists at all, let alone the first in a series, shows BMW has a strong idea of who the i8 customer will be. Only a few people are willing to spend £100,000 on a car that’s in uncharted territory for the brand and uses an unproven hi-tech powertrain. They will be wealthy sports car enthusiasts with several performance models already and a large garage to keep them in. The i8 is a Porsche 911 rival, has more than a hint of Audi R8 to its profile… and will probably sit alongside both in that garage. We land at Inverness and rather than taxi to the terminal we park at one end of the apron. A line of i8s is there, gleaming in the sun just a short walk from the plane’s steps. It’s presumably another example of the i8 lifestyle. After a briefing on the car’s unique environmental qualities – 135mpg and 49g/km CO2, yet 0-62mph in only 4.4 seconds – we’re invited to drive out of the airport, foot to the floor Hollywood-style, via the main runway. Even i8 buyers don’t get to do that. We head for the A835, arguably the UK’s most outstanding driving road. Flowing north-west towards Ullapool and skirting Loch Glascarnoch, the scenery is spectacular. More importantly for our purposes, it also offers drivers a great view of the road ahead and there’s never much traffic.

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The mayfair Magazine | Motoring

The BMW i8 is a global car. While it’s assembled in Leipzig, Germany, the carbon fibre panels come from a purpose-built factory in north-west USA, where a new type of automotive employee – one with textile industry experience – has been recruited. There’s also a UK angle; the 1.5-litre three-cylinder twinturbocharged petrol engine is built at the Hams Hall plant near Birmingham and represents the latest incarnation of BMW’s EfficientDynamics environmental technology. The engine has been combined with an electric motor to create a plug-in hybrid system, with power sent to the rear wheels via a six-speed automatic gearbox.

‘Only a few people are willing to spend £100,000 on a car that’s in uncharted territory for the brand’ The i8 has four driving modes. Comfort is the default setting, allowing the driver to use electric power up to 47mph before the engine cuts in. E-drive means the i8 can go up to 75mph using zero-emissions motoring, with a range of up to 23 miles. Next is Eco-Pro, which means the whole powertrain is optimised to generate maximum range. With a full tank and full charge, BMW says you can travel 400 miles before you need to panic. Finally, there’s Sport mode, where the engine is always on. Revelling in mile after mile of sun-baked A835, I pause at a roadside layby to take in the view. This is trickier than it sounds; once you’ve opened the doors, which move up and forward like wings, the sill is high and wide. Getting in and out is like modern dance, all clumsy angles and folded limbs. Even after a full day with the car, my technique for entering can be summarised as ‘stick your arse in and fall backwards’. I confess I never successfully mastered the exit; it was different every time. A car pulls up behind me. A man with a camera emerges, walks past the i8 and takes a couple of

token shots of the mountain views… then turns to work me over like a paparazzo with a celebrity scoop. He looks like a European tourist and I have unwittingly just made his holiday. Back on the road, the i8 impresses on every level. From the dramatic 360-degree design cues and the use of advanced materials, to its proper sports car exhaust note and industry-first laser headlamps, it is a triumph. Grip is incredible and handling on every road surface is engaging. If I have one criticism it’s that the ride could be smoother on some rougher roads. The most fun comes when you select Sport mode; simply flick the gear selector to the left then go crazy with the paddleshifts behind the steering wheel. Owners probably won’t care but practicality isn’t the car’s strong point. While the cabin is roomy for driver and passenger, the rear is little more than a parcel shelf shaped like two seats. Professional duty means I get in, though my lower back immediately wishes I hadn’t. Storage space is another weak point. The rear-mounted engine means boot capacity is limited, though Louis Vuitton has created a range of bespoke luggage that fills the space perfectly. Don’t think that means storage up front, à la Porsche 911. It’s completely sealed, to be accessed by trained BMW mechanics only. Before leaving Inverness airport hours earlier, one of them had said I couldn’t fail to get 35-40mpg from the i8, even if I drove it hard. On returning he’s proved correct. I get 50mpg – a truly impressive result for a supercar. I will try harder next time.

The best place to see the BMW i8 is the UK’s only i store, at the brand’s Park Lane showroom. While the car can be ordered though selected BMW dealerships nationwide, it’s the Mayfair store which has taken the highest number of orders to date. The area’s affluence, coupled with its proximity to the Congestion Charge zone – the i8 are exempt – is the reason why. (020 7514 3559; bmwparklane.com)

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Just a couple of hours from home. And yet a world away.

w w w. a u s t r i a . i n f o

Yo u r p e r s o n a l H o l i d a y I n f o r m a t i o n L i n e : 0845 101 1818 (calls charged at local rates)


The mayfair Magazine | Travel

From a gourmet food festival in a grandiose Swiss setting to a low-key rooftop bar overlooking downtown Chicago – we have two ideal escapes for you this September w o r d s : ma r ianne d ick

Travel news TRAVEL TIPS DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT… Net-a-Porter newcomer Maslin & Co have taken poolside glamour up a notch with its range of anatomically-sized hide-shaped towels, complete with a leather holster. Just add a cocktail, then bask. Jaguar hide beach towel, £154.99 Maslin & Co (net-a-porter.com) THERE’S AN APP FOR THAT… QUINTESSENTIALLY LIFESTYLE The only concierge a luxury traveller will ever need. Members can request access to exclusive venues with just a tap of an icon, while non-members can browse the vault of insider knowledge. Free, iTunes App Store

Short haul

Majestically positioned in the verdant Swiss landscape within the dynamic city, overlooking both the Alps and the cobalt Lake Zurich, the historic Dolder Grand hotel presides over its surrounding with such splendour that guests will undoubtedly feel like royalty during their stay. This month, Heiko Nieder, head chef of the hotel’s two Michelin-starred restaurant, is launching a gourmet food festival which will bring together 13 of the world’s best chefs for The Epicure – four days of pure culinary indulgence. If you only book one day, make it Sunday – it is set to be a banquet fit for a king or Queen. The Epicure runs from 19-21 September (thedoldergrand.com)

Long haul

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The latest offering from the eternally chic Soho House members’ club comes in the form of the renovated 1907 Chicago Belting Factory, located in the windy city’s up-and-coming West Loop district. In-keeping with the distinctive laid-back style of the first London-born club, the hotel and house will feature the original ornamented entrance, local artwork and two deliciously rustic restaurants. Guests will have access to the club’s bar, renowned Cowshed Spa and 40-seat screening room, allowing them to mingle with the cultured and creative members. The showstopper, however, has to be the rooftop bar and swimming pool – boasting the best views of downtown Chicago in the coolest of settings and quite possibly worth the price of the membership alone. (sohohousechicago.com)

‘‘Travel makes one modest. You see what a tiny place you occupy in the world’ – Gustave Flaubert 83


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The mayfair Magazine | Travel

Amalfi Exploring

Few parts of the world seem quite as indulgent as the Neopolitan riviera and the glamorous holiday spots around the Amalfi coast. We visit Ravello, Sorrento and the island of Capri to discover the area’s everlasting beauty and timeless appeal

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Amalfi Exploring

Above and

beyond

An Amalfi coast romance; Stephen Doig falls in love with southern Italy’s coastline

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The mayfair Magazine | Travel

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he arrival experience at the Palazzo Avino, in the historical town of Ravello on Italy’s impossibly scenic Amalfi coast, doesn’t start when one walks through the white marble lobby. It starts on the journey from Naples airport, which takes one through the winding, vast and luscious Cilento National Park – a mountain range that has Vesuvius on one side and, on the other, bursts out to the impactful views of Italy’s Amalfi coastline. Immortalised in film and literature, it’s one of the jewels in Italy’s crown (and let’s face it, she has a few of them), with sweeping mountain crags leading down to aqua waters. By the time we arrive at Palazzo Avino’s unassuming doorway, it’s fair to say we’re already suitably wowed.

‘The hotel, a 12th-century private villa which was owned by a noble family, was opened as a hotel in 1997’ Luckily, the layout and handsome, traditional architecture of the hotel seem determined to take it up a notch. The hotel, a 12th-century private villa which was owned by a noble family, was opened as a hotel in 1997. Despite its sense of regal grandeur, it is tucked away down a cobbled medieval alleyway, which makes bursting into its light-filled lobby (traditional but with contemporary touches such as modern art) all the more arresting; framed by arches is a truly spectacular view of the coastline from the hotel’s high perch above it. Ravello is situated in the mountains above the coastline, and the hotel makes sure that its unique situation celebrates the rugged beauty of the Amalfi coast through its views. This experience continues in my sea-fronted room, where the ebb and flow of the dramatic coastline acts like a particularly elegant soap opera before me – clouds float through 

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mountain ranges, Vespas veer through winding streets and yachts cut through the opal waters. The rooms themselves adhere to the Palazzo Avino’s tenets of fresh, easy luxury – vaulted ceilings, cool whites and turquoises in airy surroundings. The layers of terraces that lie beneath are assigned to various pursuits – the restaurant, spa area and pool all beckon below. It’s little wonder that Ravello’s romantic views and charming medieval passageways have inspired the great figures of literature and classical music across the centuries. It was here that Wagner was inspired for the stage design of his opera Parsifal, thanks to the awesome vista at Villa Rufolo, perched high on a clifftop above the sea. And it was in Ravello that the Romantics Shelley, Byron and Keats found inspiration amongst the untouched charm, and where Virginia Woolf, Graham Greene, Gore Vidal (who had a house here), Tennessee Williams and Truman Capote sought respite from the world. One can see why; Ravello’s status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site means that it’s impeccably preserved, and local historical attractions such as Villa Cimbrone and Villa Rufolo act as the perfect backdrop for those of an artistic temperament (renowned for their ‘terraces of infinity’ views, you’d be hard pressed not to come away feeling a tad poetic). Although the charms of Ravello are enough to keep travellers spellbound, the entire Amalfi coastline is full of quaint gems awaiting discovery (as anyone who’s watched The Talented Mr Ripley will well know). A short drive from Ravello (courtesy of the Palazzo Avino’s

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handsome fleet of cars) is the historical town of Amalfi, a lively, bustling epicentre, with Positano and Sorrento further up the coastline and a wealth of inlets, coves, viewpoints and rows upon rows of vineyards and olive groves in between. And when you’re suitably weary from your adventures? The Palazzo Avino’s cool, calming marble environs act as a balm against the bustle and heat. The Caffé dell’Arte bar comes with a specialist in cocktail mixology, who will whip up anything from a simple Aperol spritz to a full-on palette experience. And downstairs, in Rossellinis restaurant, chef Michele Deleo creates a menu that’s wonderfully in tune with the surroundings and local setting. Wines are also selected from the region because the grapes in Amalfi are entirely unique, infused as they are by the minerals of the sea air. And after an evening of indulgence, it seems suitable to make a splash in the hotel’s pool (again, offering sumptuous views) before exploring the spa. Decorated in jewel-hued Moorish design, it offers a hydro pool, sauna and Turkish steam bath alongside treatment rooms. Opt for a massage to iron out any residual knots that might be lurking; suddenly the call of the BlackBerry and 21st century seem very far away. Wandering back through manicured gardens, framed by mountain ranges, church towers and lapping waters, the cut and thrust of London life seems as distant as those far-off drifting clouds. Rooms from €280 per night, and Suites from €630 per night (00 39 089 818181; palazzoavino.com)

all images courtesy Palazzo Avino

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sonata

Host to luminaries from around the world, as the Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria celebrates its 180th anniversary, we find out why this historic hotel is still Sorrento’s cliff-top jewel and explore the area’s revered food and culture W o r d s : K at e R a c o v o l i s

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ou may have the universe if I may have Italy,’ said famed Italian composer Giuseppe Verdi. So many parts of Italy conjure this same passion that Verdi implied – the country’s food, fashion, art and history are all so rich and vibrant, even the thought of taking a sojourn there can feel truly indulgent. And in a few places, all of Italy’s best features come together – especially around the coast and in particular, Sorrento; the slightly less

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ostentatious cousin of Capri – but equally as elegant and glamorous. Upon first glance, the sparkling bay beneath the iconic cliff shimmers as if it has been peppered with diamonds, filling the sea between there and Naples. Mount Vesuvius sits dormant, yet formidably, overlooking all of Naples and the peninsula of Sorrento, as well as the well-preserved ancient Roman ruins of Herculaneum, the structure of which was enveloped by the volcanic eruption of Vesuvius in 79 AD.


The mayfair Magazine | Travel

The narrow, winding cobblestoned streets are lined with vendors selling lemon-flavoured everything (the citrus fruit is particularly abundant in this region), but even this touristpacked part of Sorrento still retains a certain charm. Few establishments characterise this place quite as much as the Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria, which stands at the heart of this busy but small town on the clifftop overlooking the bay. The black iron gates to the Excelsior Vittoria sit on one of the main streets of Sorrento, but the entrance is deceptive. The gates lead to a long, extended driveway surrounded by a leafy five-acre park, which abounds with lemon and orange trees. The grounds are also dotted with archaeological remains, as the hotel is said to have been the site where a villa belonging to the Roman Emperor Augustus one stood. The hotel itself is a local icon and a historic landmark in its own right, and this year, celebrates its 180th anniversary. Since the hotel’s inception, it has been managed by five generations of the Fiorentino family, and from the moment you arrive, it’s immediately clear that this is a special place that could not be replicated. The hotel has a strong sense of identity, which is deeply entrenched in its long history, which has seen luminaries from around the world pass through its classical rooms. Countless members of various royal families are counted among the hotel’s list of past guests, including the Prince of Wales who visited in 1874

and again in 1910 when he was King of England, Queen Victoria of Sweden and the Grand Duchess Catherine of Russia, to name but a few. Sophia Loren and Pierce Brosnan have also stayed, as well as Lucio Dalla, who wrote his famed song Caruso at the establishment. Staying at the Excelsior Vittoria is like travelling back to a less fast-paced way of life, and a glamorous one at that. All of a sudden, technology seems somewhat redundant. It certainly helps that everywhere you look, including the room in which you are staying is decorated with original masterpieces from the

‘Staying at the Excelsior Vittoria is like travelling back to a less fast-paced way of life’ 18th and 19th centuries, Louis XVI as well as Art Nouveau pendants and frescoes. The Belle Époque Winter Garden, the centrepiece of the hotel which leads on to the terrace overlooking the bay, is a place where you could easily spend an entire afternoon, taking in the views and indulging in tea and crostata, made with marmalade from the hotel’s oranges. Here, breakfast is a grand affair, as you can take your morning meal in one of the most beautiful spaces in the hotel; the Ristorante Vittoria, a breathtaking 

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Amalfi Exploring

ballroom, while you are soothed by the sweet notes of a baby grand piano. To truly unwind, the spa, La Serra, is also not to be missed, and it sits in its own conservatorystyle enclave next to the hotel. Here you can select from a series of treatments, both energising and relaxing. The Lemon and Orange Garden signature treatment will give your skin a proper dose of vitamin C and contains anti-oxidants, using the lemons and oranges that Sorrento is known for. This is the often difficult-to-achieve balance that the Excelsior Vittoria strikes perfectly; the meeting of history and a museum-like place with the amenities that we have come to expect of a five-star hotel. This makes for an altogether wonderfully authentic and memorable place to stay. The hotel has also recently refurbished some of its rooms to suit more contemporary tastes. Antique furnishings have been replaced with more minimalist style interiors, yet still, the historic charm of the hotel is never lost. While it’s easy to forget there is a world outside of the hotel’s beautiful interior and surrounding park, Capri is just a 30-minute boat ride away, as

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is the Neapolitan riviera. A climb up Mount Vesuvius is not as daunting as it sounds, but rather, mysterious and intriguing, as you can still see small plumes of volcanic gases gently rising from some parts of the volcano. Best of all, there is a beautiful view overlooking Naples and the bay towards the island of Capri. Closer to sea level, stop by Pastificio Gentile in Gragnano to visit the Zampino family, who own one of the best pasta factories in Italy (which, incidentally, is used in many of Mayfair’s best restaurants). This small but picturesque town is where pasta was originally made using a technique called Metodo Cirillo. This dries the pasta at a slow, low temperature, akin to how it was originally dried in the streets under the sun (before automobiles were introduced into our lives). As you are served a plate of its pasta, cooked perfectly al dente with just a touch of tomato and basil, you need only fill your nose with its fresh, simple scent to appreciate this beautiful part of Italian culture. Regardless of what you choose to do in Sorrento, you may come to see just how easily you would trade the universe for this part of Italy, and the Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria at that, even if only for a little while.


The mayfair Magazine | Travel

Need to know Three nights at the Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria costs from £797 per person, based on two adults sharing a Classic Garden View room on a B&B basis. This includes return flights from London Gatwick to Naples and transfers booked through Classic Collection (0800 294 9324; classic-collection.co.uk). Based on departing October 2014. For further information on the Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria, please visit exvitt.it or call the hotel on 00 39 081 877 7871. Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria, Piazza Tasso, 34 – 80067, Sorrento, Italy

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all images courtesy of jk place

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or a place whose name influenced a Where to stay style of trousers made famous by There is a wonderful Audrey Hepburn, Capri is every bit the choice of hotels in destination for the famous and Capri, but one of the fashionable. But there is also much history and most memorable – and an unassumingly intriguing side to this island quite possibly the most that adds to its beauty and charm. stylish – is JK Place. Every Swedish physician, Axel Munthe, who lived inch of this hotel radiates in Capri from 1885, once said, ‘What you keep glamour. Its interiors were to yourself you lose, what you give away, you designed by famed Italian keep forever.’ Munthe spent more than 56 architect Michele Bonan, years living on the island and built his dream and strikes the perfect home on the clifftop Anacapri, among the balance between classic ruins of an ancient chapel, which paid details and contemporary homage to Saint Michael. His aptly named – once you have stayed Villa San Michele, about which he wrote a here, you will want to make book, The Story of San Michele, is now a it your regular haunt. stunning and perfectly preserved museum. (jkcapri.com) Villa San Michele certainly echoes Munthe’s beautiful sentiment that to truly enjoy Eating & drinking something forever is to share it with others. Da Giorgio is a firm favourite And Capri is one of those special places. among locals and tourists One can never take the breathtaking alike, and is a restaurant views for granted in Capri, as so many parts that has been serving classic of the island enjoy beautiful vistas of the Italian fare since 1948. Its surrounding bay, both on higher ground simple dishes are bursting and even beneath the sea. The Blue Grotto with flavours that will have is Capri’s most famous, and although it is a you wanting to return night major tourist attraction, as soon as you pass after night. With a spectacular through its small rocky entrance, it is like view of the bay, the restaurant being inside a sapphire. Or, take a trip up is by no means fussy, but like to Capri’s highest point, Monte Solaro, much of Capri, still has an air which sits at 589 metres above sea level. of refinement about it. From this vantage point, the entire island (dagiorgiocapri.com) is at your feet as you overlook the spurs of rock rising out from the richly coloured Mayfair recommends blue water. Take a private boat journey to After you’ve indulged your appetite Fontelina – a restaurant that sufficiently, and explored the island, a guests can only access by sea. visit to Capri would not be complete Its seafood is sublime, and without enjoying its sartorial side too. In you can sip on an Aperol spritz strolling down the narrow streets lined and watch the waves gently lap on with fabulous shops you will be following to the rocks. After a long lunch, in the footsteps of the likes of style icons bask in the sun by the water’s such as Jackie Onassis, Sophia Loren and edge – it’s pure bliss. Audrey Hepburn. (fontelina-capri.com)

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[city break]

capri Discover the rich heritage and culture behind the glamour of the island of Capri from its sapphire blue grottos to its highest peaks w o r d s : k at e r a c o v o l i s


The mayfair Magazine | Travel

SUITCASE E S S E N T I A L S

#1 White gold earrings from the Feather Collection, £2,900, Kiki McDonough (kiki.co.uk)

#2 Perfume, £70 for 50ml, Acqua di Parma (acquadiparma.com)

#3 Swimsuit, £380, Lisa Marie Fernandez (net-a-porter.com)

#4 Bag, £325, Anya Hindmarch (anyahindmarch.com)

#5 Sandals, £615, Dolce & Gabbana (matchesfashion.com)

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Suite

dreams

… at The Pig on the Beach, Studland Bay W o r d s : e m i ly l a u r e n c e b a k e r

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hen I arrive at the remote Pig on the Beach in Studland Bay on a midweek afternoon, I feel as if I am joining a well-seasoned house party. Some guests are taking tea on the flagstone terrace, others have dispensed with shoes and are sprawled on the lawn overlooking the bay and the chalk stacks of Old Harry Rocks. Laughter abounds, gulls swoop and squawk above us and I feel anxious to shed my urban angst and stiff clothing. Pig on the Beach is the fourth Pig in the hotel litter, opening three years after the hugely successful Pig in Brockenhurst and just two weeks after The Pig near Bath. If you want to come for the weekend, you’ll have to wait; this Dorset hideaway is already booked well into the new year. It seems that hotelier Robin Hutson’s porcine recipe is a popular one but it couldn’t be simpler: combine exceptionally good food prepared with fresh, local ingredients with an informal, unpretentious atmosphere to produce

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bone-deep restorative relaxation. Like the other Pigs (with the exception of Southampton, which does not have a restaurant) this one is billed as a restaurant with rooms. This means people who care deeply about where their food comes from and how it is prepared will be very happy indeed. Guests are encouraged to poke around the walled garden – the heartbeat of the establishment. The abundant vegetables grown here inspire the menu, which changes daily, or even hourly, depending on what is ready for harvest. Ingredients not found in the garden are sourced from within a 25-mile radius, including eggs from chickens at the bottom of the garden and Purbeck lamb grazing across the street. My taste buds are enlivened as I munch on brilliant blue borage flowers and emerald green marsh samphire at dinner, and sip smooth cocktails made from flower-infused gins and vodkas. The emphasis on food does not mean that the


The mayfair Magazine | Regulars

bedrooms are an afterthought. Plain wood floors; muted colours; simple wooden bedframes and a few artfully-integrated antiques recall a real-life family summer home, which this quirky, turreted building once was. Narrow corridors lead this way and that, with odd-shaped rooms tucked under eaves and into otherwise forgotten corners. All rooms have sumptuous bathrooms, with the bonus of view-positioned

Service is pleasingly deferential; it’s clear the guest is always correct, and staffers hustle to meet whims, even the exasperating ones. My visit ends less than 24 hours later but I leave feeling refreshed and inspired to plant some lettuce on my terrace. (01929 450288; thepighotel.com)

‘The abundant vegetables grown here inspire the menu, which changes daily’ freestanding bathtubs in the larger ones. The house party atmosphere pervades and the hosts are masters at getting guests to chill. Starched waiters won’t be calling you ‘sir’ or ‘madam’ here. Instead, it’s a refreshing trainerclad, pink-shirted staff, impossibly young and smiley, and all earnest about their hospitality.

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The Themayfair mayfairMagazine Magazine| Interiors | Beauty

Falling leaves As the wind blows cooler and the leaves start to turn Tryian purple and rusty red, we can start to put on our thin knits and go from wearing the citrus yellow and harlequin green of summer to warmer, richer colours. Beauty brand Laura Mercier has tapped in to these shades with the new Sensual Reflections Collection for A/W14, featuring deep green, opulent plum and twinkling gold. Add a touch of the Cheek Mélange to your cheeks for a beautiful, natural glow. Cheek Mélange, £31, Laura Mercier (lauramercier.co.uk)

Beauty news Christian Louboutin makes his makeup debut with a covetable nail polish in his trademark red and enrobe your lips with Guerlain’s new satin-like lipstick words: samantha feuer & bethan rees

Life and sole

Travel by candlelight

The story of Christian Louboutin’s red soles began with a slick of his assistant’s nail polish after he felt something was missing from his prototype design. Since then, this very particular hue of red has become a symbol of elegance and style. This month, Louboutin is launching his first nail colour; Rouge Louboutin. The product is a true objet d’art; the highly pigmented, chip-resistant polish is encased in a dramatic eight-inch block of fine crystal, and is reminiscent of the tallest heel ever created by the designer – the Ballerina Ultima. Christian Louboutin Beauté, Nail Colour, Rouge Louboutin, £36 (christianlouboutin.com)

A house isn’t a home until you’ve introduced the perfect fragrance into it. This month, fill your rooms with the scent of Jo Loves’ new candles, with specially cultivated aromas to bring your ‘most loved moments and memories alive’. Inspired by Jo Malone’s travels, the range includes three scents, inspired by the Middle East, the Mediterranean and her orange blossom trees. Neroli Blossom, Arabian Amber and Oak Moss candles, £45, Jo Loves (joloves.com)

Read my lips For 185 years Guerlain has been exploring the world of beauty, and is known for its beautiful and indulgent creations. The French perfume house’s newest release comes in the form of a decadent lipstick, aptly named KissKiss. Your lips will receive an instant boost of hydration and be left feeling smooth, with its formula enriched with mango butter and a subtle scent of vanilla violet. This lipstick feels as though you’ve dressed your lips in satin, and also comes in a contemporary case featuring three sleek cubes, crafted by designer Hervé Van der Straeten. KissKiss lipstick, £25, Guerlain (guerlain.com) 99


pink ladies As we approach breast awareness month, it is important to remember that breast care is important throughout the year, not just in the month of October

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reast cancer is the UK’s most common female cancer and accounts for approximately one in three cancers in women. With more than 44,600 new cases of breast cancer in the UK annually, a diagnosis can be the beginning of an anxiety-provoking experience in a woman’s life. Obtaining up-to-date information and support from a breast-care specialist, who is an expert in the treatment and management of breast care, ensures a woman gains control over the way she makes informed decisions. Here, we talk to Bernie Phelan, Breast Clinical Nurse Specialist at The Wellington Hospital about the importance of early diagnosis, treatment and how to optimise your breast health. Tell us about your role as Clinical Nurse Specialist at the Breast Care Unit? Patients come to see me for many different reasons, including breast screening, questions about diagnostic testing and treatment options. My role is to offer a patient-focussed service, always acting in their best interests by providing advocacy, emotional and psychological support, information and practical advice. It is imperative that women with breast cancer are provided with ongoing psychological support at a time when they often feel a sense of isolation and are very vulnerable. Support from the clinical nurse specialist can significantly reduce the psychological aspects in women undergoing breast cancer surgery and help them to cope with the impact of the disease on their quality of life.

which are too small to be felt either by the woman herself or by a doctor. At The Wellington we offer daily ‘triple assessment clinics’. This includes taking a detailed history of the patient’s symptoms, a clinical examination of the breasts/armpits, and finally a mammogram or breast ultrasound (some patients will also require a fine needle aspiration test). This triple assessment is carried out during their initial visit, meaning most patients can be reassured and discharged that same day. In addition to diagnostics and treatment, what other services are available? Educating patients is a big part of a breast care nurse’s role, so I spend a lot of time with my patients explaining the importance of breast awareness, early detection, attending breast screening and how vital a healthy lifestyle and diet is. In addition to this, statistics suggest that one in eight women will develop breast cancer in their lifetime, so it is important to be breast aware and know what symptoms to look out for: • Changes in the shape or size • Changes in the skin texture, such as puckering or dimpling • A newly inverted nipple • A lump or thickening of breast tissue • Redness or rash on the skin or around the nipple • Discharge from one or both nipples • Constant pain in the breast or armpit • Swelling in the armpit and around the collarbone

BOOK YOUR MAMMOGRAM

What happens if a woman finds a lump in her breast? Screening can detect breast cancer at a very early stage. The first step involves an X-ray of each breast (mammogram), which is taken while carefully compressing the breast. The mammogram can detect small changes in breast tissue which may indicate cancers

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What do you enjoy most about your role?

I have to say I am passionate about my 90% of women who attend our clinic will job; every day is different. I get a great not have breast cancer, however this can deal of satisfaction helping my patients only be confirmed through a mammogram. through what can be a very traumatic Screening can detect cancer at a very and anxiety-provoking time. Our Breast early stage which greatly improves Care Unit at The Wellington has state-ofsurvival rates. To arrange an the art equipment and I am privileged to appointment call us on work alongside a team of top multi020 7483 5004 professional clinicians, who are experts in the field of breast care management.


The mayfair Magazine | Health Promotion

The Breast Care Unit The Wellington Breast Care Unit provides convenient appointments, rapid diagnosis and treatment, and access to the most up-to-date technology. Most importantly, patients receive personal, friendly, confidential care that is designed to meet the needs of the whole patient, not just treat the disease. We’re Relocating The Wellington Breast Care Unit has now moved from The Wellington Hospital’s South Building to the third floor at the Platinum Medical Centre. This means that our patients will now receive all their diagnostic tests (including mammography) in one building during a single visit, which offers a seamless breast

care pathway, from the initial GP referral through to diagnosis and treatment. The Wellington Hospital has invested countless resources in constructing a state-of-the-art breast care unit, where comprehensive care is provided by multi-disciplinary team. We have a department of recognised breast specialists who cover the full spectrum of breast management, from the diagnosis and treatment of benign and malignant breast disease to breast reconstruction. Survival rates for breast cancer have improved significantly over the last 20 years. This is largely due to increased awareness of breast cancer, prompting women to seek earlier diagnostic testing. So do not delay, if you have any concerns about your breasts, go and see your GP today.

For advice on breast awareness and other breast related essential information, please visit www.thewellingtonbreastcareunit.com or to arrange an appointment at The Wellington Hospital, contact the Enquiry Helpline on 020 7483 5004 101


Beauty | The mayfair Magazine

Spa review So SPA, Sofitel St James Hotel WOR D S : b e t h a n r e e s

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s September arrives, the nights draw in a little faster, sunkissed skin begins to fade and we swap our iced lattes for flat whites. But for those who are craving another vacation, the So SPA at Sofitel St James has a quick-fix solution. The spa, which sits in the former Bank of Nigeria, retains gorgeous marble details, a polished oak staircase and high, intricate ceilings, but manages to not feel in the slightest bit corporate. The Destination Package, which launches on 25 August, offers guests an hour’s escape to Morocco, with a North African massage alongside the scent of orange or rose to completely unwind; or Indonesia with an ayurvedic energising massage with the scent of vanilla and cardamom.

‘I was transported to the spicy, colour-soaked souks of North Africa’ I opted for the Moroccan package, and was instantly transported to the spicy, coloursoaked souks of North Africa, from the moment I entered the room. The beautiful thing about So SPA is that it feels totally private; I didn’t see another guest while I was here, even though I knew there were others around. From the moment I arrived I felt as though it was a bespoke experience; all my desires were catered for, including my choice of music and scents. My knots melted away while listening to the soothing tones of Debussy, and the aromas of spiced orange from the Cinq Mondes floral water spray filled the air. Afterwards, I felt far away from the hustle and bustle of the capital that stridently greeted me as I departed, and all I wanted to do was return to Morocco, via St James’s. Destination Package, £80, So SPA at Sofitel St James Hotel, 6 Waterloo Place, SW1Y (sofitelstjames.com)

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Put this at the top of your To Do list 1 in 8 women in the UK will be diagnosed with breast cancer. Many cases show no symptoms and have no family history of the disease. With The Wellington Hospital’s digital mammogram technology, abnormalities can be highlighted earlier, allowing for a greater chance of a full recovery. Our breast care service covers the full spectrum of breast management from the diagnosis and treatment of benign and malignant breast disease to breast reconstruction. We offer breast screening, breast awareness demonstrations for concerned woman and a triple assessment clinic for woman with breast symptoms. To make an appointment with our breast care team contact us on 020 7483 5004.

www.thewellingtonbreastcareunit.com MAYFR_Wellington_BreastCare_Ad_May2013_5004.indd 1

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escape A tranquil oasis amidst the hustle & bustle of Mayfair. A unique dining experience begins as you walk down a tree-lined pathway to reach The Greenhouse. London fades away and calm descends. Michelin-starred chef Arnaud Bignon’s acclaimed light touch with highly flavoured dishes brings a thrilling dimension to classic French cuisine. Make your reservation today at

The Greenhouse, 27a Hay’s Mews Mayfair, London, W1J 5NY 020 7499 3331 www.greenhouserestaurant.co.uk reservations@greenhouserestaurant.co.uk


The mayfair Magazine | Food & Drink

Mayfair celebrates the return of Japanese Wagyu beef, Marcus Wareing’s new casual British eatery opens and opulent sweets arrive in Harrods Words: Bethan Rees and Gabrielle Lane

Return of Wagyu

Food &

Following a four year hiatus, Japanese Wagyu is making a welcome return to London menus this summer. Regarded by many as the finest steak in the world, Wagyu has been emulated by American and Australian producers in recent years following an import ban on the authentic marbled beef in the UK and America. The first restaurant to benefit from the reintroduction is CUT at 45 Park Lane (part of Dorchester Collection and just a stone’s throw from The Dorchester) which has reinstated succulent Wagyu fillet, sirloin and rib-eye cuts with much-deserved fanfare. From £125, 45 Park Lane, W1K (020 7493 4554; dorchestercollection.com/45PL)

A British classic

What Wareing did next

A glass of Scotch whisky, whether it’s served neat, on the rocks or stirred with bitters and sugar syrup in an ‘Old Fashioned’ cocktail, never fails to transport you to the Highlands with your taste buds. The Naked Grouse’s new-look bottle contains deep, richlycoloured whisky, which is hand blended in small batches and slow-matured in Oloroso sherry casks. The smooth dram awakens the mouth with its notes of cherry compote, custard and peach. Keep your eyes peeled for The Naked Grouse pop-up bar around Mayfair; meanwhile, sip away in W1 bars such as Mr Fogg’s and Hush. The Naked Grouse, £25 (thefamousgrouse.com)

Michelin-starred chef Marcus Wareing has had a busy year so far. Firstly, the much-anticipated re-opening of his eponymous restaurant at The Berkeley, and now his next venture launching in mid-September in Seven Dials. Tredwell’s, a casual British restaurant, features interiors by Robert Angell Design International, and pays homage to the building’s history as an old horse trading site, with a classic British racing green colour scheme and quirky horse murals on the walls. Tredwell’s, 4 Upper St. Martin’s Lane, WC2H

The sweetest thing Marzipan sweets are often indulged in around the festive season, but there’s no reason why we shouldn’t eat them all year round, especially now that Harrods is bringing one of the most elegant confectioners to London. Those with a true sweet tooth will adore Délice, which was previously stocked in the top five-star hotels and boutiques in the Emirates, and is launching its first European counter in Harrods’ Food Hall. The carefully crafted sweets which are made from decadent ingredients including rosewater, pistachios and white chocolate, are as much of a treat to the eye as they are to the taste buds. Executive Crystal box, from £210, Délice. Available to order at Harrods’ Food Hall (harrods.com) 105



The mayfair Magazine | Food & Drink

DINING OUT

May Fair Kitchen, Stratton Street W O R D S : k at e r a c o v o l i s

‘I

used to be shy about ordering a steak after I had eaten a steak sandwich, but I got used to it,’ wrote AJ Liebling, the famed American journalist with a penchant for excellent food, and a rather large appetite. Before I dined at the new May Fair Kitchen on Stratton Street, which adjoins the May Fair Hotel, I took the same view as Liebling, before he decided that eating well and occasionally indulgently was simply something a person becomes used to, and normality.

‘With my mind finally made up, the marbled beef fillet is the winning dish on this occasion’

And the May Fair Kitchen does not disappoint those who are looking for a hearty, fulfilling meal. This can make your decision rather difficult when you order – that inevitable moment when your waiter comes to your table, checking to see whether your menu is closed and you have made up your mind. My menu, filled with a thorough selection of meat and seafood dishes, the ingredients of which are all displayed in the restaurant, was still well and truly open when the crucial moment of the night arrived to make my decision. I was told the rare seared salt-coated tuna, which is caught in the Maldives, is spectacular, and although I was tempted by it – as well as the Atlantic Ocean-caught lobster, hand-dived British scallops and Scottish langoustines among many more – it is the menu from the grill, that catches my attention. With my mind finally made up, the marbled beef fillet is the winning dish on this occasion, paired with a creamy, Bordelaise sauce that truly brought out the rich flavour of the meat. And with a starter of Iberian Peninsula spiced chorizo and smoked garlic tiger prawns, I certainly didn’t feel I was missing out on the seafood offering. One of May Fair Kitchen’s best qualities, aside from the excellent produce, is its take on fine dining. Although white tablecloths are present, and the decor is sleek, it doesn’t feel at all fussy, whether you are dropping in for a quick lunch meeting or a long, decadent three-course dinner. And you could very happily dine here on many days of the week and have something different every time, which is always pleasing to know for those who struggle to choose just one thing from such a tantalising menu. May Fair Kitchen, Stratton Street, W1J (020 7915 3892; themayfairhotel.co.uk/mayfairkitchen)

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Leave no stone unturned Leaving no stone unturned, Stone World has grown to specialise in some of the rarest and most exquisite colour variations of Natural Stone from around the world, from the finest marble in Italy to the flawless granite mined in Brazil. With stock of over 4,000 slabs at the Park Royal warehouse facility, clients are encouraged to visit to personally select the exact slab they would like to use for their projects. For those seeking inspiration for design ideas and colour palettes, Stone World has launched an app: The Stone Library. The app allows users to search for Natural Stone by colour, the material category or texture and keywords. Each Natural Stone entry has an enhanced image quality feature, which enables users to use the entire screen as a sample swatch, helping them to build colour schemes and specify particular stones for a new project.

020 8838 3232 st o ne wo r l d l o n d o n . c o . u k


The mayfair Magazine | Regulars

In 1935 Hartnell moved to No.26 Bruton Street, and the Georgian house, first built in around 1738, was remodelled as an exquisite salon with glass and mirrors by Gerald Lacoste. It was in 1935 that Hartnell received his first royal commission to design the wedding dress for Lady Alice Montagu-Douglas-Scott, who was to marry King George V’s youngest son, the Duke of Gloucester. This also included bridesmaid dresses for Princess Margaret and Princess Elizabeth, the future Queen Elizabeth II. It was the beginning of a long relationship with the Royal Household, particularly Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother, including the entire wardrobe for her 1938 royal tour. However, it is Hartnell’s designs for her daughter, Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II that he is often best remembered. This includes two of her most iconic dresses – her wedding dress in 1947, and the celebrated Coronation dress in 1953, ‘hand embroidered with 10,000 seed pearls and thousands of white crystal beads’. Hartnell continued to design outfits for the Royal family throughout the 1950s and 1960s, and was knighted for his services in 1977. Throughout his career, he continued to welcome celebrity clients to his salon, and along with the royal ladies he tended to other famous names, such as Elizabeth Taylor and Marlene Dietrich. Hartnell died in 1979 and the fashion house continued along Bruton Street until 1992. A blue plaque commemorating the royal couturier was unveiled at No.26 Bruton Street in 2005. Melanie Backe-Hansen, House Historian (house-historian.co.uk)

28th August 1954: Across the river from Big Ben, a group of models wearing clothes by (from left to right) Mattli, Hardy Amies, Creed and Norman Hartnell. Original Publication: Picture Post - 7261 - Fashion In London - Autumn 1954 pub. 1954 (Photo by John Chillingworth/Picture Post/Getty Images)

Remembering

MAYFAIR H A R T N E L L BRUTON STREET

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alking along Bruton Street between Berkeley Square and New Bond Street, you may notice the bold name of ‘Hartnell’ displayed on the exterior of No.26. This was the former salon of royal couturier, Sir Norman Hartnell and where, for almost 45 years, he welcomed stars of stage and screen, along with aristocracy and members of the Royal family. Hartnell’s career began by designing costumes for fellow students at Cambridge Footlights, but by 1923, at the age of 22, he established his own label at No.10 Bruton Street. He also played a pivotal role in launching London as a fashion centre when it had previously been firmly fixed in Paris. Hartnell soon established a reputation for designing society fashion, and also continued his links with the theatrical world, designing for many famous names, including Noël Coward, Gertrude Lawrence and Vivien Leigh.

‘He played a pivotal role in launching London as a fashion centre’ 109


Property | The mayfair Magazine

Mayfair estate agents 020 7834 4771 (sales) (hamptons-int.com)

Beauchamp Estates 24 Curzon Street, W1J 7TF 020 7499 7722 (beauchamp.co.uk)

Hanover residential

West End

7-10 Beaumont Mews W1K 6EB 020 3540 5990

John taylor 48 Berkeley Square, W1J 5AX 020 3284 1888 (john-taylor.com)

Savills

St John’s Wood ChestertonS

Mayfair

47 South Audley Street W1K 2QA 020 7629 4513 (sales) 020 7288 8301 (lettings)

102 St John’s Wood Terrace NW8 6PL 020 7722 2223 (hanover-residential.co.uk)

Westminster & Pimlico 10 Gillingham Street, SW1V 1HJ 020 3411 8386 (sales) (chestertons.com)

Knightsbridge

82 Brompton Road SW3 1ER 020 7225 6506 Fine & Country

Mayfair

121 Park Lane, W1K 7AG 020 7079 1523 (fineandcountry.co.uk)

Hamptons International

Chelsea

134 Fulham Road, SW10 9PY 020 7717 5433 (lettings)

Knightsbridge KAY & CO

Hyde Park & Bayswater 24-25 Albion Street W2 2AX 020 7262 2030

Marylebone & Regents Park Harrods Estates

Rokstone 5 Dorset Street, W1U 6QJ 020 7580 2030 (rokstone.com)

20a Paddington Street W1U 5QP 020 7486 6338 (kayandco.com)

188 Brompton Road, SW3 1HQ 020 7581 5234 (sales)

Mayfair 36 North Audley Street, W1K 6ZJ 020 7578 5100 (sales & lettings)

Sloane Street 139 Sloane Street, SW1X 9AY 020 7730 0822 (savills.co.uk)

Mayfair 61 Park Lane W1K 1QF 020 7409 9001 (harrodsestates.com)

Horne & Harvey 23a St James’s Street SW1A 1HA 020 7839 6006 (horneandharvey.co.uk)

Knightsbridge

Knight Frank

Strutt & Parker

120a Mount Street W1K 3NN 020 7499 1012 (sales & lettings) (knightfrank.co.uk)

13 Hill Street, W1J 5LQ 020 7629 7282

Mayfair

Hyde Park 1 Craven Terrace W2 3QD 020 7871 5060 (sales) 020 7871 5070 (lettings)

Knightsbridge 66 Sloane Street SW1X 9SH 020 7235 9959 (struttandparker.com)

Marylebone 55 Baker Street W1U 8EW 020 3435 6440 (sales)

168 Brompton Road, SW3 1HW 020 7717 5463 (lettings)

London Head Office

Mayfair 32 Grosvenor Square, W1K 2HJ 020 7717 5465 (sales) 020 7717 5467 (lettings)

W.A. Ellis 174 Brompton Road SW3 1HP 020 7306 1600 (waellis.co.uk)

Paddington & Bayswater 4C Praed Street, W2 1JX 020 7717 5473 (sales) 020 7717 5343 (lettings)

Pimlico & Westminster 50 Belgrave Road, SW1V 1RQ

JACKSON STOPS & STAFF 17c Curzon Street W1J 5HU 020 7664 6644 (jackson-stops.co.uk)

Pastor Real Estate Ltd 48 Curzon Street W1J 7UL 020 3195 9595 (pastor-realestate.com)

For estate agent listings please contact Sophie Roberts at: s.roberts@runwildgroup.co.uk

Wetherell 102 Mount Street W1K 2TH 020 7493 6935 (wetherell.co.uk)


showcasing the

finest HOMES & PROPERTY from the best estate agents

Bordeaux at its best

La Réserve Hospitality Collection’s owner Michel Reybier opens the doors to his French château

Property

in focus

Covetable addresses in prime central London

image: La Chartreuse de Cos d’Estournel (estournel.com)


Portland Place MARYLEBONE W1

A very rare opportunity to acquire one of Marylebone’s largest and most remarkable freehold mansion houses

A magnificent Grade II listed* mansion house (designed by the Adam Brothers c. 1776) and adjoining mews house available as a whole or in two separate lots. This is the first time since being built that this outstanding residence has been offered for sale freehold. The property offers 19,803 sq ft of living space and comprises a six storey mansion house and adjoining mews house with planning granted for a single storey roof extension to the mews which will add an additional 1,666 sq ft. It is the former home of many notable members of society including the aristocratic Wyndham family and Baron James Blyth, founder of the famous gin distillers, W.A. Gilbey & Sons. The property has seen a number of interesting additions over the years including a beautiful stained

KF_DPS_LHP.indd 1

glass billiard room and an ingenious hydraulic wall that separates the dining room from the music room, both added to the property during Baron Blyth’s ownership. Later years have seen the addition of a lift from lower ground to third floor and a gym and leisure suite added to the basement. The house has entertained many VIPs over the years including members of Royalty and heads of state, most notably, during Lord Blyth’s occupation, Winston Churchill and King George V’s wife Queen Mary. It has also been used for many film, music and photo shoots including most famously Lionel Logue’s clinic in the Oscar-winning film The King’s Speech, the video location for Amy Winehouse’s Rehab and Kate Moss’ famous Agent Provocateur film.

29/07/2014 10:45

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10:45

FOR SALE BY INFORMAL TENDER

Sole Agent

Contact Christian Lock-Necrews for further information 020 3435 6441 christian.lock@knightfrank.com

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29/07/2014 11:01


KnightFrank.co.uk

Frederick Close, Hyde Park W2

Charming mews house with garage

A beautifully presented house with own internal garage located in a quiet mews moments from the green open spaces of Hyde Park. 3 bedrooms, bathroom, shower room, reception room, dining room, kitchen, cloakroom. EPC rating C. Approximately 130 sq m ﴾1,400 sq ft﴿ Freehold

KnightFrank.co.uk/hydepark hydepark@knightfrank.com 020 3544 6140

Guide price: £2,500,000 ﴾HPE110170﴿

Frederick Close Mayfair Mag Sept 2014

06/08/2014 10:23:15

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KnightFrank.co.uk

Cambridge Square, Hyde Park W2 Newly refurbished garden square townhouse

A spacious townhouse offering versatile accommodation and finished to a high specification throughout. 6 bedrooms, 6 bathrooms, 2 reception rooms, dining room, open plan kitchen, 2nd kitchen, large balcony, air conditioning, under floor heating, integral garage. EPC rating C. Approximately 340 sq m ﴾3,660 sq ft﴿ Freehold

KnightFrank.co.uk/hydepark hydepark@knightfrank.com 020 3544 6140

Guide price: £5,500,000 ﴾HPE110170﴿

10 Cambridge Square Mayfair Mag Sept 2014

06/08/2014 11:18:33


KnightFrank.co.uk

Ryder Street, St James's SW1 An immaculate three bedroom apartment

A well appointed lateral apartment situated on the top floor of a highly regarded building in St James's. Flooded with natural light and benefiting from a caretaker and lift access. 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 reception rooms, kitchen, air conditioning, caretaker, lift access. EPC rating E. Approximately 183 sq m ﴾1,967 sq ft﴿ Leasehold: approximately 90 years remaining

KnightFrank.co.uk/mayfair mayfair@knightfrank.com 020 8166 7482

Guide price: £3,950,000 ﴾WER110033﴿

17 St James's Chambers MM sept

13/08/2014 14:50:00

MM


00

KnightFrank.co.uk

Davies Street, Mayfair W1K

A beautifully presented three bedroom apartment A spacious apartment in a prestigious portered building, offering the perfect entertaining space and further storage space in the basement. Master bedroom suite, 2 further bedrooms with en suite shower rooms, 3 reception rooms, kitchen, porter, lift, basement storage. EPC rating D. Approximately 255 sq m ﴾2,743 sq ft﴿

KnightFrank.co.uk/mayfair mayfair@knightfrank.com 020 8166 7482

Leasehold: approximately 47 years remaining Guide price: £7,500,000 ﴾WER140097﴿

MM sept 6 Manor

12/08/2014 14:43:15


KnightFrank.co.uk Hertford Street, Mayfair W1J A two bedroom lateral apartment with porterage A smart two bedroom lateral apartment in a secure, portered building in the centre of Mayfair. Master bedroom with en suite bathroom, second double bedroom, shower room, kitchen, reception/dining room, lift, porter, balcony. EPC rating D. Approximately 73 sq m ﴾789 sq ft﴿ Leasehold: approximately 998 years remaining Guide Price: £1,750,000 KnightFrank.co.uk/mayfair mayfair@knightfrank.com 020 8166 7482 ﴾WER140120﴿

South Audley Street, Mayfair W1K A well‐proportioned three bedroom apartment A spacious lateral apartment on the second floor of a popular building moments from prestigious Grosvenor Square. Master bedroom with en suite shower room and dressing room, 2 further bedrooms, bathroom, kitchen, reception/dining room, caretaker, lift. EPC rating C. Approximately 144 sq m ﴾1,549 sq ft﴿ Leasehold: approximately 18 years remaining Guide Price: £2,395,000 KnightFrank.co.uk/mayfair mayfair@knightfrank.com 020 8166 7482 ﴾WER140114﴿

MM Carrington & south Audley

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KnightFrank.co.uk Jermyn Street, St James's SW1 A private one bedroom apartment A peaceful one bedroom lateral apartment at the centre of London's oldest district. Set within a prestigious portered building, the property offers an outstanding level of security. Bedroom, bathroom, reception room with kitchenette, porter, 2 entrances, 2 lifts. EPC rating D. Approximately 53 sq m ﴾570 sq ft﴿ Leasehold: approximately 162 years remaining Guide Price: £1,295,000 KnightFrank.co.uk/mayfair mayfair@knightfrank.com 020 8166 7482 ﴾WER140095﴿

Duke of York Street, St James's SW1 A contemporary one bedroom apartment A fourth floor one bedroom apartment situated just off renowned St James's Square, boasting a private balcony and a caretaker. Bedroom, bathroom, open plan kitchen/reception room, balcony, lift, caretaker. EPC rating C. Approximately 34 sq m ﴾370 sq ft﴿ Leasehold: approximately 983 years remaining Guide Price: £895,000 KnightFrank.co.uk/mayfair mayfair@knightfrank.com 020 8166 7482 ﴾WER120241﴿

Bank chambers & Bray house MM Sept

15/08/2014 10:27:24


KnightFrank.co.uk

KnightFrank.co.uk Connaught Square, Hyde Park W2 Impressive family house

An elegant Grade II listed Georgian house located on the edge of one of London's finest garden squares. 5 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, reception room, open plan kitchen/family room, roof terrace, self‐contained staff flat with bedroom, shower room, reception room and patio, access to communal gardens. Approximately 302 sq m ﴾3,260 sq ft﴿ Available unfurnished Guide price: £2,500 per week

Hyde Park Lettings KnightFrank.co.uk/lettings hydepark@knightfrank.com 020 3641 7941 ﴾HPQ198479﴿

Montagu Square, Marylebone W1 Grade II listed apartment

A luxurious three bedroom apartment finished to the highest specification and offering spacious living which combines elegant period features with contemporary design. This Grade II listed property comprises master bedroom suite with a separate dressing room, 2nd bedroom suite with ample built in storage, 3rd bedroom, guest WC, spacious reception room, dining room, fully fitted kitchen. Approximately 164 sq m ﴾1,765 sq ft﴿ Available furnished or unfurnished

Green Street, Mayfair W1K

Guide price: £2,250 per week

A superior two bedroom lateral apartment A stylish two bedroom apartment recently refurbished by Base Interior. Set within a beautiful Georgian building, the apartment offers a superior standard of living. Master bedroom with en suite shower room, second bedroom, bathroom, kitchen, dining/reception room, balcony. Approximately 93 sq m ﴾1,000 sq ft﴿ Share of freehold

Marylebone Lettings KnightFrank.co.uk/mayfair KnightFrank.co.uk/lettings mayfair@knightfrank.com marylebonelettings 020 8166 7482 @knightfrank.com 020 3435 6440

Guide price: £3,650,000 ﴾WER140126﴿

MM sept - 2,2 Green St

All potential tenants should be advised that, as well as rent, an administration fee o Please ask us for more information about other fees that may apply or visit KnightF

Mayfair Mag Lettings (MRY/HP)12/08/2014 - September 14:27:43

M


o.uk KnightFrank.co.uk

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KnightFrank.co.uk

Connaught Square, Hyde Park W2

Connaught Square, Hyde Park W2

An elegant Grade II listed Georgian house located on the edge of one of London's finest garden squares. 5 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, reception room, open plan kitchen/family room, roof terrace, self‐contained staff flat with bedroom, shower room, reception room and patio, access to communal gardens. Approximately 302 sq m ﴾3,260 sq ft﴿

An elegant Grade II listed Georgian house located on the edge of one of London's finest garden squares. 5 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, reception room, open plan kitchen/family room, roof terrace, self‐contained staff flat with bedroom, shower room, reception room and patio, access to communal gardens. Approximately 302 sq m ﴾3,260 sq ft﴿

Available unfurnished

Available unfurnished

Guide price: £2,500 per week

Guide price: £2,500 per week

Hyde Park Lettings KnightFrank.co.uk/lettings hydepark@knightfrank.com 020 3641 7941

Hyde Park Lettings KnightFrank.co.uk/lettings hydepark@knightfrank.com 020 3641 7941

﴾HPQ198479﴿

﴾HPQ198479﴿

Impressive family house

Impressive family house

Montagu Square, Marylebone W1

Montagu Square, Marylebone W1

A luxurious three bedroom apartment finished to the highest specification and offering spacious living which combines elegant period features with contemporary design. This Grade II listed property comprises master bedroom suite with a separate dressing room, 2nd bedroom suite with ample built in storage, 3rd bedroom, guest WC, spacious reception room, dining room, fully fitted kitchen. Approximately 164 sq m ﴾1,765 sq ft﴿

A luxurious three bedroom apartment finished to the highest specification and offering spacious living which combines elegant period features with contemporary design. This Grade II listed property comprises master bedroom suite with a separate dressing room, 2nd bedroom suite with ample built in storage, 3rd bedroom, guest WC, spacious reception room, dining room, fully fitted kitchen. Approximately 164 sq m ﴾1,765 sq ft﴿

Available furnished or unfurnished

Available furnished or unfurnished

Guide price: £2,250 per week

Guide price: £2,250 per week

Marylebone Lettings KnightFrank.co.uk/lettings marylebonelettings @knightfrank.com 020 3435 6440

Marylebone Lettings KnightFrank.co.uk/lettings marylebonelettings @knightfrank.com 020 3435 6440

Grade II listed apartment

Grade II listed apartment

ministration fee of £276 All potential will applytenants when renting shouldabe property. advised that, as well as rent, an administration fee of £276 will apply when renting a property. y or visit KnightFrank.co.uk/tenantcharges Please ask us for more information about other fees that may apply or visit KnightFrank.co.uk/tenantcharges

43

Mayfair Mag Lettings (MRY/HP) - September

11/08/2014 10:59:29

All potential tenants should be advised that, as well as rent, an administration fee of £2 Please ask us for more information about other fees that may apply or visit KnightFran

Mayfair Mag Lettings (MRY/HP) - September 11/08/2014 10:59:29


KnightFrank.co.uk

Babmaes Street, St James's SW1 Selection of newly developed apartments

A fantastic new development of thirteen apartments available for a minimum term of one month. Ranging from 1‐3 bedrooms, 1‐3 bathrooms, reception room, open plan kitchen, terrace, lift, EPC rating B‐C. Approximately 57 sq m ﴾614 sq ft﴿ ‐ 145 sq m ﴾1,560 sq ft﴿ Available furnished

Guide price: £1,500 ‐ £2,750 per week ﴾MAQ202301﴿

KnightFrank.co.uk/lettings mayfairlettings@knightfrank.com 020 8166 7799

All potential tenants should be advised that, as well as rent, an administration fee of £276 will apply when renting a property. Please ask us for more information about other fees that may apply or visit KnightFrank.co.uk/tenantcharges

Mayfair Mag October 2014 2

15/08/2014 11:23:01

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01

KnightFrank.co.uk

North Audley Street, Mayfair W1K Newly refurbished to the highest specification with direct lift access. 3 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, reception room, dining area, large separate kitchen, study, lift, wooden floors, EPC rating rating C. Approximately 214 sq m ﴾2,306 sq ft﴿

KnightFrank.co.uk/lettings mayfairlettings@knightfrank.com 020 8166 7799

Availalbe furnished

Guide price: £3,500 per week

Fantastic three bedroom apartment

﴾MAQ200264﴿

All potential tenants should be advised that, as well as rent, an administration fee of £276 will apply when renting a property. Please ask us for more information about other fees that may apply or visit KnightFrank.co.uk/tenantcharges

Mayfair Mag September 2014 2

15/08/2014 13:06:44


Beyond your expectations www.hamptons.co.uk

Mayfair Chambers, W1 Mayfair Chambers presents a rare opportunity to purchase a luxurious residence designed and finished to the highest standard. Close to Berkeley Square and Grosvenor Square, Mayfair Chambers is situated in the genteel Mayfair Conservation Area, at the very heart of the London borough of Westminster. EPC: C

£4,500,000 Leasehold • • • • • •

Hamptons Mayfair Office Sales. 020 7717 5465 | Lettings. 020 7717 5467

Two bedrooms Two bathrooms New build Porter High quality finish Approx. 1,388 Sq Ft


Upper Berkeley Street, W1 Rare to the market is this wonderful six bedroom home. The reception rooms are spacious with lovely period features with a formal dining room on the ground floor and a lovely double reception room on the first floor. The master suite includes a dressing room and en-suite bathroom and there are five further bedrooms and four further bathrooms. The property also has a study, patio, storage vaults and air conditioning. EPC: D

£3,500 per week Furnished/Part furnished • • • • • •

Hamptons Mayfair Office Lettings. 020 7717 5467 | Sales. 020 7717 5465

Six bedrooms Five reception rooms Five bathrooms Outside space Air conditioning Storage vaults


Beyond your expectations www.hamptons.co.uk

Belgrave Road, SW1V Tucked away on a secluded street in Westminster this exceptional Georgian house (circa 1790) has been meticulously refurbished, creating a wonderful balance between traditional craftsmanship and modern 21st century living. EPC: C

£4,100,000 Freehold • • • • • •

Hamptons Pimlico & Westminister Office Sales. 0203 281 7214 | Lettings. 020 7717 5345

Reception room Dining room Media room Three bedrooms Wine cellar Terrace


Inverness Mews, W2 Two exclusive and newly developed apartments set within an adjoining pair of mews houses located within a quiet Bayswater mews. Through skilful design and attention to detail, the architects have created two luxurious apartments with significant lateral living spaces. Both apartments have private entrances, large open-plan living spaces, three double bedrooms, bicycle storage and the latest in modern luxuries. EPC: C

£2,350,000 each Share of Freehold • • • • • •

Hamptons Hyde Park & Bayswater Office Sales. 020 7717 5473 | Lettings. 020 7717 5343

Newly developed Luxurious specification Three bedrooms Kitchen/reception room Ample residents parking by permit Moments from Kensington Gardens


savills.co.uk

LETTINGS LAYOUT ONLY

1

A MODERN INTERIOR DESIGNED TOP FLOOR DUPLEX APARTMENT curzon street, w1 2 bedrooms ø 2 bathrooms ø reception room ø kitchen ø study ø terrace ø porter ø lift ø 124 sq m (1,337 sq ft) ø Council Tax=H ø EPC=C

Savills Mayfair Leonie Bucher lbucher@savills.com

020 7578 5100 Furnished £2,000 per week + £276 inc VAT one-off admin fee and other charges may apply* *£36 inc VAT for each additional tenant/occupant/guarantor reference where required. Inventory check out fee – charged at the end of or early termination of the tenancy and the amount is dependent on the property size and whether furnished/unfurnished. For more details, visit www.savills.co.uk/fees.


savills.co.uk

1 BEAUTIFULLY PRESENTED FREEHOLD MAYFAIR TOWNHOUSE culross street, w1 Entrance hall ø first floor reception room ø sitting room ø study ø dining room ø kitchen ø master bedroom with en suite bathroom ø 2 further bedroom suites ø 2 guest cloakrooms ø garden ø garage ø lift ø EPC=C Guide £7.5 million Freehold

Savills Mayfair Charles Lloyd clloyd@savills.com

020 7578 5100


Word on the street

Meet the newest sales negotiator at Knight Frank’s Mayfair and St James’s office on Mount Street, Simon Burgoyne, who has worked in Mayfair for the past six years, as he shares his view on the area’s property scene What have you seen change in Mayfair recently? The landscape of Mayfair is always changing, as there are unique developments and properties here that you can’t find in any other location in London. Also, Mayfair is, in my view, the only place in London you could truly call a village, because it is so separated from its neighbouring areas; there is no reason to come here unless you want to be here. You can circumnavigate here quite easily, and it has a wonderful community feel. You could visit Sautter on Mount Street for example, and know everyone’s name. You walk through the Mount Street Gardens and down Chesterfield Hill and even on a week day, there is so little traffic – it is so peaceful.

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Are there are any parts of Mayfair that are becoming more desirable streets? North Audley Street is one example of this, and people are willing to sacrifice being near a construction site as the development on Grosvenor Square continues. If you look at streets which are historically deemed commercial, such as Dover Street, Dering


The mayfair Magazine | Property

Street, Maddox Street and Avery Row, there are residential properties popping up around there now, from both new developments to conversions. We are also seeing the major redevelopment of commercial buildings into residential schemes. Do people who come to Mayfair tend to stay here? There are lots of cases where people have sold and moved out of the area, and are now wanting to come back. The market is quick at the moment, so buyers need to be decisive, but our focus is always on getting the price right for what the property is, rather than going on averages or where you feel the market is. We focus on actual values, as some of the properties under our instruction are quite specific – it truly is the calibre of properties here that makes Mayfair so unique. What do you enjoy about working in London’s prime central property market? My uncle told me to do something that I love, and I also wanted to be in central London. There is nothing not to love about property, from the people you meet, the properties you see – particularly with Knight Frank; it is the next level. It’s almost impossible to think of it as a job – it is a real pleasure to help people in selecting and purchasing a property.

What are some of your most recent instructions? We have some incredible properties that we have just been instructed on, including the Corinthia apartments on Whitehall Place, which range from £8.75m – £15.65m. These luxurious apartments all have access to the facilities of the five-star Corinthia Hotel, including access to the spa (currently the largest urban spa in Europe) and 24-hour room service. We also have a number of beautiful houses on our books, including four bedroom townhouses on Charles Street and South Street.

opposite page: main image: Corinthia apartments, Whitehall Place. Apartments ranging from 2-4 bedrooms. £8.75m - £15.65m. four bedroom house on South Street, £9.4m. below: four-bedroom house on Charles Street, £15.5m and simon Burgoyne

What do you expect the rest of the year will bring? We have had such a busy year so far and we are expecting to hit an extremely busy burst from here until Christmas. The Mayfair team work so well together. People pop in when they are out and about – sometimes just for a friendly chat. The combined knowledge of the team is incredible; it doesn’t matter what you need to know about, there is always someone available to discuss any particular aspect of Mayfair property. Knight Frank Mayfair & St James’s 120a Mount Street (020 7499 1012; knightfrank.co.uk)

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As an award-winning property on Hays Mews goes on the market for sale, we meet with Martin Bikhit, managing director of Kay & Co, to discuss why this quiet street is one of Mayfair’s most desirable locations

The height of luxury W

alking along the quiet, very private street of Hays Mews in Mayfair, it’s easy to forget you’re in one of the most vibrant areas of London. Over the past decade more commercial properties have been given a new lease of life as residential spaces, and one example of precisely this phenomenon has arrived on the market in this sought-after street.

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Martin Bikhit, managing director of estate agent Kay & Co, which has been instructed to sell the property, has seen this trend first hand. ‘We’ve seen an incredible resurgence,’ Bikhit says. ‘A lot of commercial buildings have come back into residential use, which I think is fantastic. It makes a big difference to the area. I remember Mayfair being very quiet at the weekends, with not many people around, but


PHOTO BY SAREL JANSEN

The mayfair Magazine | Property

that has completely changed. There are those residential pockets, but on Mount Street for example, in particular, there is always a buzz, which is really nice.’ One of the most enticing draws for buyers looking for a property such as this threebedroom house on Hays Mews is its proximity to Mayfair’s world-renowned restaurants, members’ clubs, hotels, shops and art galleries, while still allowing its occupier to enjoy their home in a more discreet, private setting. The interior of the six-storey property is finished to a truly excellent standard, with an incredible attention to detail, from the finishes on every cornice, to the ceiling of the media room, which is decorated in glimmering lights that resemble stars. To live here is to reside in an awardwinning establishment too, as the London Evening Standard even crowned it as ‘Best Conversion’ in its 2012 property awards. ‘As far as Mayfair goes and as far as houses go, this certainly ticks a number of key boxes,’ says Bikhit. ‘For me, these include the terrace on the roof which overlooks Mayfair, and the fact that you have off-street parking – large enough for a Rolls-Royce. And, particularly for international buyers, it is almost essential to have a lift in the house.’ Mayfair continues to enjoy a reputation as one of London’s safe havens for property purchasers and vendors, while the area continues to change and evolve. ‘Mayfair will always be very sought after,’ says Bikhit. ‘The areas around the edges have become very spruced up as a result of places such as The Beaumont, and Crossrail will be a big benefit in terms of proximity to – or ease of access to

– Heathrow, for example. All these things are important to international buyers who are jetting in and out of London every week. It really is all about convenience.’ Convenience is something that Mayfair is certainly known for, with all of its amenities, such as the restaurants, beautiful squares and a unique ambiance that balances the commercial and residential identity of the area. ‘For somebody who might not always reside in London, to have all of these benefits on your doorstep is a massive draw,’ says Bikhit. ‘There are also very strong residents’ associations and trade associations, so you really have got everyone pulling in the same direction for the overall benefit of the area.’ While Bikhit has a penchant for beautiful properties in prime central London, after 17 years in the business, he says it is the relationship building with people that he enjoys most. ‘Because we are a family business – and my father has been in business since 1982 – it is not about just doing one deal with a client and moving on to the next. It really is about building relationships and serving that client again and again,’ he says. ‘We have clients from all over the world, where my father started working with the parent and I am now working with their children. I enjoy that continuity of relationships – I’d rather not do a deal with someone than do the wrong deal, because it is about building trust and relationships, as much as any anything else.’ Price on application. For further enquiries, contact Martin Bikhit at Kay & Co, 24-25 Albion Street, W2 (020 7262 2030; kayandco.com)

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Park Towers, Mayfair, W1 Newly refurbished, luxurious apartment on the ninth floor of this modern block. The property comprises three double bedrooms all with built-in storage and en-suite bathrooms, a brand new fully integrated kitchen and a reception room with a study and dining area. The apartment boast fantastic views across London and is a short walk from all the transport links, shops and amenities of Piccadilly. Available immediately on a furnished basis for long term lets. EPC rating B.

£2,950 per week Plus property fees: £180 Admin & £219 Checkout. References: £42 per person* *http://www.harrodsestates.com/tenants 02074099158 robin.boghhenrikssen@harrodsestates.com

KNIGHTSBRIDGE OFFICE: 82 BROMPTON ROAD LONDON SW3 1ER T: +44 020 7225 6506 MAYFAIR OFFICE: 61 PARK LANE LONDON W1K 1QF T: +44 020 7409 9001 CHELSEA OFFICE: 58 FULHAM ROAD LONDON SW3 6HH T: +44 (0) 20 7225 6700 HARRODSESTATES.COM


55 Park Lane, Mayfair W1 A selection of one to four bedroom apartments in this prestigious, highly secure development with 24 hour concierge and a lift. These luxurious properties are set in one of Park Lane’s most sought-after buildings, just moments away from all the amenities of Mayfair and Hyde Park itself. The apartments range in style from traditional to modern. All of the apartments are furnished and the utilities are included in the rent. Available now for tenancies of 3 months and over. EPC rating from B to E.

Price on Application Plus Property Fees: £180 Admin & £160-300 Checkout. References: £42 per person* *http://www.harrodsestates.com/tenants 020 7409 9158 robin.boghhenrikssen@harrodsestates.com

KNIGHTSBRIDGE OFFICE: 82 BROMPTON ROAD LONDON SW3 1ER T: +44 020 7225 6506 MAYFAIR OFFICE: 61 PARK LANE LONDON W1K 1QF T: +44 020 7409 9001 CHELSEA OFFICE: 58 FULHAM ROAD LONDON SW3 6HH T: +44 (0) 20 7225 6700 HARRODSESTATES.COM


The View, Mayfair, SW1 A newly refurbished penthouse apartment benefiting from fantastic views across London. This meticulously designed property comprises a master suite with dressing room, en-suite and balcony, a further three double bedrooms with en-suites, staff bedroom with shower room, utility room, media room, guest W.C, a vast open plan kitchen living room leading up to a recently added studio on the 17th floor that opens out onto a terrace with stunning views. The property has just been renovated to a very high standard with new furniture and wooden floor throughout. Also available for short let for £6,500 per week. Available now on furnished basis. EPC rating E. £5,950 per week Plus property fees: £180 Admin & £324 Checkout. References: £42 per person* http://www.harrodsestates.com/tenants 02074099158 robin.boghhenrikssen@harrodsestates.com

KNIGHTSBRIDGE OFFICE: 82 BROMPTON ROAD LONDON SW3 1ER T: +44 020 7225 6506 MAYFAIR OFFICE: 61 PARK LANE LONDON W1K 1QF T: +44 020 7409 9001 CHELSEA OFFICE: 58 FULHAM ROAD LONDON SW3 6HH T: +44 (0) 20 7225 6700 HARRODSESTATES.COM


Berners Street, Fitzrovia W1 Situated in the heart of Fitzrovia opposite the Sanderson Hotel and Fitzroy Place are six luxurious brand new two bedroom, two bathroom apartments and one three bedroom duplex penthouse all with lift access. Located within this converted Art Deco style building the apartments provide a contemporary ‘loft style’ interior design. Show apartments by Lambart & Browne are now available to view.

Prices from £1,975,000 to the penthouse at £4,495,000 Leasehold approximately 999 years remaining 020 7409 9205 michael.davis@harrodsestates.com JSA: Savills Marylebone

KNIGHTSBRIDGE OFFICE: 82 BROMPTON ROAD LONDON SW3 1ER T: +44 020 7225 6506 MAYFAIR OFFICE: 61 PARK LANE LONDON W1K 1QF T: +44 020 7409 9001 CHELSEA OFFICE: 58 FULHAM ROAD LONDON SW3 6HH T: +44 (0) 20 7225 6700 HARRODSESTATES.COM


Park Lane, Mayfair W1 A spacious one bedroom apartment situated on the third floor of this prestigious Mayfair address (with lift). Accommodation comprises a bright reception room, fully fitted kitchen, double bedroom and separate bathroom. The building also benefits from 24-hour security and a dedicated concierge service. EPC rating C.

ÂŁ1,275,000 Leasehold approximately 120 years remaining 020 7409 9346 jennifer.marwick@harrodsestates.com

KNIGHTSBRIDGE OFFICE: 82 BROMPTON ROAD LONDON SW3 1ER T: +44 020 7225 6506 MAYFAIR OFFICE: 61 PARK LANE LONDON W1K 1QF T: +44 020 7409 9001 CHELSEA OFFICE: 58 FULHAM ROAD LONDON SW3 6HH T: +44 (0) 20 7225 6700 HARRODSESTATES.COM


Upper Grosvenor Street, W1 A beautifully presented apartment in this sought after building moments from Hyde Park and Grosvenor Square, comprises a large reception/dining room, fully fitted kitchen and two bedrooms both with en suite bathrooms. Additional benefits from concierge and 24hr security. EPC rating C.

Guide Price ÂŁ2,650,000 Leasehold approximately 112 years remaining +44 (0)20 7409 9047 robert.cox@harrodsestates.com

KNIGHTSBRIDGE OFFICE: 82 BROMPTON ROAD LONDON SW3 1ER T: +44 020 7225 6506 MAYFAIR OFFICE: 61 PARK LANE LONDON W1K 1QF T: +44 020 7409 9001 CHELSEA OFFICE: 58 FULHAM ROAD LONDON SW3 6HH T: +44 (0) 20 7225 6700 HARRODSESTATES.COM


THERE IS NOTHING THAT MAKES ITS WAY MORE DIRECTLY INTO THE SOUL THAN BEAUTY. JOSEPH ADDISON

VIEWING BY APPOINTMENT ONLY GUIDE PRICE £6.95M

ENQUIRIES: RESIDENTIAL DEVELOPMENT +44 (0)20 7664 6649 LONDONDEVELOPMENT@JACKSON-STOPS.COM

6 BE D ROO M H O U S E D RAX ESTAT E W I M BL E D O N SW2 0 AU G USTA HOUS E .CO.U K


jackson-stops.co.uk

Waterdale Manor, NW1 This property has well designed living-space comprising kitchen, living room, two bedrooms (one en-suite) and separate shower room. There is also a south-facing terrace. Conveniently located for Marylebone/ Baker Street stations; this property would make a great pied-a-terre or London base. EPC Rating C

Asking Price: ÂŁ850,000 Leasehold

MM58002

Mayfair

People Property Places

020 7664 6644

Local & National reach through a network of London & Regional offices

mayfair@jackson-stops.co.uk


jackson-stops.co.uk

Half-Moon Street, W1J SHORT LET. A one bedroom serviced apartment located in central Mayfair, 0.1 mile from Green Park and Berkeley Square. With air conditioning, maid service and the full use of all hotel facilities including restaurant, bar and 24 hour Porter service.

ÂŁ4,379 per week fees apply

MM57948

The Strand, WC2R A two bedroom 3rd floor (with lift) apartment located in a new development on the Strand, 0.3 miles from Covent Garden and well connected for the City. Comprising kitchen, south facing dining room/reception room with balcony, two double bedrooms both with en-suite, guest W/C and utility room. EPC Rating C

ÂŁ1,495 per week fees apply

MM57800

People Property Places Local & National reach through a network of London & Regional offices

Mayfair

020 7664 6644 mayfair@jackson-stops.co.uk



From North West to Knightsbridge

The directors of Hanover Residential discuss the rise of their new West End office amid exciting times in the prime central London market

‘P

roperty is a relationship-based business,’ says Alex Bourne, director of Hanover Residential. We are meeting over coffee at the Churchill Hotel in Marylebone to discuss the success of the company’s West End office, which opened in October 2013. And, with his three fellow directors – Jason Goldstone, Jeremy Rosenblatt and Richard Douglas – also present, it’s easy to believe that the business’s personable approach is led from the top. ‘As a client, when you go to an estate agency, very rarely do you get to work with the directors of the company. As an independent, our ethos is to be involved with every transaction,’ adds Jeremy.

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With the West End office operating alongside Hanover Residential’s established St John’s Wood branch, the boutique agency is able to demonstrate a presence across the prime central London market, during interesting times in which the price for a property in Marylebone can now reach in excess of £2,000 per square foot and upwards of £3,000 per square foot in Knightsbridge. ‘The fact is,’ explains Alex, ‘when you’re looking for a property, you don’t necessarily know what you want to compromise on at first. It’s important to be able to provide a bespoke service across a broad area. We encourage our negotiators to go wherever they need to go and we’ve seen no sign that the Prime market is slowing.’ Such flexibility is especially key given the current level of international investment, which means that many overseas buyers are not initially familiar with the areas in which they are buying homes and need detailed guidance. Richard recounts a story of a member of a Royal Family who registered with Hanover Residential in St John’s Wood and was given a tour of various different styles of properties from The Bishops Avenue to Knightsbridge. This allowed the family to determine exactly where they wanted to live and what each area had to offer, before deciding on a property within close proximity to Harrods. In fact, much of Hanover Residential’s business is generated by high-net-worth individuals from abroad, with their impact now being felt in north west London too. ‘St John’s Wood is changing: foreign investors are realising that you can get a slightly higher yield and although the capital appreciation hasn’t hit the heights of Marylebone or Mayfair, it isn’t far off,’ explains Richard. The team have noted that investors are also

taking longer-term views of the market. While several overseas investors from the Far East continue to favour new-build opportunities bought off-plan, there are a number of overseas funds from various different regions acquiring mixed use buildings in Marylebone and Mayfair to develop and potentially hold. Some might wonder if there is a reluctance among owners to sell, due to the 2015 general election and the possibility of a mansion tax being introduced. ‘There is a lot of scaremongering going on in the press,’ says Jason. However, the future looks positive for the sales market. ‘In some cases the anticipation of

‘St John’s Wood is changing, foreign investors are realising that there is good value for money’ a mansion tax is motivating sellers, but this is actually generating a higher level of transactions in the market,’ says Richard. ‘If you’re from a country where there is unrest, the changes that go on here pale in comparison.’ Jeremy agrees: ‘London remains the safest place to invest your money. The capital growth in areas such as Belgravia, Knightsbridge and now Marylebone is second-to-none.’ And with that it’s off back to the West End office with the parting words: ‘There’s a huge amount of cross-over, and by understanding the values across a large area, we are in a better position to offer our advice to anyone looking to buy a property in prime central London.’ Hanover Residential, 102 St John’s Wood Terrace, NW8 (020 7722 2223). 31a Thayer Street, W1 (020 3540 5990; hanover-residential.com)

Portman Towers, W1; available through Hanover Residential

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facebook.com/struttandparker twitter.com/struttandparker

struttandparker.com

Little Chester Street, Belgravia SW1

A well-presented five bedroom townhouse on this quiet Belgravia street with a garage, conveniently positioned for all the shops, restaurants and transport facilities of Knightsbridge and Hyde Park Corner.

2,508 sq ft (233 sq m) Entrance hall | Two reception rooms | Dining room | Kitchen | Master bedroom suite | Two further bedrooms suites | Two bedrooms | Shower room | Cloakroom | TV room | Garage | Off-street parking | EPC rating G

Knightsbridge 0207 235 9959 casper.tham@struttandparker.com

ÂŁ4,250,000 Freehold


South Eaton Place, Belgravia SW1

A sensational freehold stucco fronted six bedroom house with a roof terrace, garage and off-street parking on one of the best streets in Belgravia.

5,109 sq ft (474.6 sq m) Entrance hall | Drawing room | Dining room | Family room | Kitchen | Breakfast room | Master bedroom with dressing room and en suite bathroom | Two further bedroom suites | Three further bedrooms | Two shower rooms | Study | Cloakroom | Gym | Utility room | Balcony | Roof terrace | Garage | EPC rating D

Knightsbridge 020 7235 9959 charlie.willis@struttandparker.com

ÂŁ16,000,000 Freehold


facebook.com/struttandparker twitter.com/struttandparker

struttandparker.com

St Michaels Mews, Belgravia SW1

An immaculately presented four bedroom, low-built contemporary townhouse superbly located within the prestigious Belgravia Place development.

ÂŁ5,500,000 Share of Freehold

2,700 sq ft (250.8 sq m) Entrance hall | Reception room | Dining room | Kitchen | Utility room | Master bedroom with dressing room and en suite bathroom | Three further bedrooms | Two bathrooms (one en suite) | Cloakroom | Patio garden | Roof terrace | Air cooling system | Resident estate manager | Double garage | EPC rating C

Knightsbridge 0207 235 9959

james.gilbert-green@struttandparker.com JSA W A Ellis 020 7306 1600


Lyall Mews, Belgravia SW1

A new and impressive freehold four bedroom house with spacious accommodation over only four floors, benefiting from a home cinema room, gym, extensive wine cellar, large roof terrace, an integral garage and off-street parking.

3,801 sq ft (353.1 sq m) Entrance hall | Reception room | Dining room | Kitchen | Master bedroom suite | Two further bedroom suites | Bedroom 4/Study | Shower room | Home cinema room | Utility room | Wine store |Gym | Cloakroom | Courtyard garden | Terrace | Garage | Off-street parking | EPC rating D

Knightsbridge 0207 235 9959 charlie.willis@struttandparker.com

ÂŁ10,750,000 Freehold


The elements

of style Meet the fashion-forward founder of boutique estate agent Rokstone, Becky Fatemi, as she invites us into her home on Chiltern Street to talk about how she’s taking luxury property to a new level

PHOTO BY SAREL JANSEN

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I

t’s 11 o’clock in the morning on Chiltern Street on a bright, warm Wednesday, but the clicks and flashes of the paparazzi’s cameras (usually to be found loitering around celebrity ‘it’ restaurant, Chiltern Firehouse) are nowhere to be seen. Instead, there is a woman walking down the street who is commanding the attention today with long, bouncy dark brown hair and a million-dollar smile; Becky Fatemi, who founded Rokstone, a luxury estate agent on the corner of Dorset Street and Chiltern Street three years ago. Her newly redesigned home – which is decorated with a stunning array of pieces, all sourced from local boutiques – sits just moments away, also on Chiltern Street. It is no coincidence that her office is so close to her house (as a single mother, she settled in this fashionable part of London to be close to her seven-month old son, as well as her work). It was after 12 years of working in property that she decided to create her own, rather unique brand. Interestingly she likens Rokstone to the experience you would expect in an Italian restaurant. It’s all about the welcome you receive from the moment you first step through its front door (and yes, coffee is usually involved). ‘I wanted to create a more bespoke offering, and more of a handheld service to buyers and sellers,’ Fatemi explains as we sit on a Sonia Rykiel-clad couch among her impossibly chic apartment. ‘I treat every property as a luxury property, and even if it’s a studio or a one-bedroom flat, we never photograph it unfurnished – even if I need to furnish it with some of my own pieces!’ The service you will find at Rokstone is a holistic one, as Fatemi and her team specialise in both sales and acquisitions, and work with an incredible range of properties. This includes a church that was converted into a house, which sold for £50 million and several apartments in Marylebone in the realm of £2.5 to £3.5 million. But all share a common feature; they are all of a quality that attracts the famous and fashionable to Fatemi’s company (she once rented an apartment in Mayfair to Daphne Guinness).

Although the market has seen significant shifts over the past few decades, with the influx of more buyers from abroad, particularly in Mayfair and Marylebone, Fatemi is confident that London will maintain its position as one of the most soughtafter places to live in the world. ‘If you’re looking to buy in central London, you must do it sooner

‘If you’re looking to buy in central London, you must do it sooner rather than later’ – Becky Fatemi rather than later. Regardless of economic conditions or worldwide politics, London is where everyone wants to be in Europe for medicine, for job security and for education,’ she says. Fatemi is no stranger to Mayfair and Marylebone – two of London’s best hubs for art, culture, fashion and food – not least because she has lived here for seven years. You need only look at the glamorous interior of her home; an ornamental embellished sculpture of a skull from Horiyoshi III in Marble Arch sits on a coffee table, a colourful rug from Designers Guild adorns her wooden floorboards, antiques from Claude Gallery and art from Atlas Gallery, both of which are on Chiltern Street, decorate her living room and she also has pieces from The Conran Shop on Marylebone High Street and Thomas Goode in Mayfair. The attention to detail in the interior of her home is forensic, and, likewise, how she runs Rokstone – a bona fide fashionista if we ever met one. Rokstone, 5 Dorset Street, W1U (020 7580 2030; rokstone.com)

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green street Mayfair W1 South facing penthouse apartment with summer kitchen and roof terrace overlooking gardens.

£7,500,000 ■ ■

Three bedrooms ■ Four Bathrooms 2,239 Square Feet

Roof Terrace

no-one knows mayfair better than wetherell

Mayfair_Mag_DPS.indd 1

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15:41

Park Street Mayfair W1 Contemporary lateral apartment in 1930s building with eight windows over Hyde Park.

wetherell.co.uk

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ÂŁ5,250,000 Two Bedrooms n Two Bathrooms 1,473 Square Feet

n

Open-Plan Reception/ Dining

102 Mount Street, London W1K 2TH T: 020 7529 5566 n E: sales@wetherell.co.uk

15/08/2014 15:42


St Pancras Chambers, Euston Road NW1 One of only 68 apartments within this magnificent landmark building. Situated on the fourth & fifth floors, this two bedroom, two bathroom apartment is offered with the benefit of double height ceiling in the living room and the fully fitted kitchen and is one of the few apartments with secondary glazing throughout. The development additionally has 24hr porterage, gym (by subscription) and use of room service (minimum spend £100) serviced by the 5 star Marriott Rennaissance Hotel. St. Pancras Chambers is located within St. Pancras International, which offers a superb selection of shops, cafés and restaurants in King’s Cross and Camden. Transport links include St. Pancras International and King’s Cross Station.

Sole Agent £1,540,000 Leasehold

Wyndham House, Bryanston Square W1 This bright and airy, recently refurbished four bedroom apartment is set on the raised ground floor of this small purpose built, portered block on the highly sought after Bryanston Square. This fantastic family home benefits from excellent natural light, a private patio garden, air conditioning and electric blinds. Bryanston Square, located in the heart of Marylebone, is one of the area’s most prestigious garden squares. It is ideally located for the shopping, restaurant, leisure and transport facilities of both Marylebone High Street and Oxford Street. Regents Park and Hyde Park are both within easy reach.

Joint Sole Agent £2,295,000 Leasehold


Harley House, Marylebone Road NW1 This magnificent three double bedroom, two bathroom apartment benefits from plenty of light and excellent ceiling heights. With an impressive reception room and spacious fully fitted modern eat in kitchen this expansive 1559 sq ft (144.83 sq m) apartment is offered in excellent condition. Harley House is one of the grandest residential innovations of the Edwardian era and benefits from 24 hour porterage and a modern well equipped private gym within the block superbly located a short walk from the apartment. This beautiful building in Marylebone Village is just moments away from the shops and restaurants of Marylebone High Street and the green open spaces of Regent’s Park.

Joint Sole Agent £2,300,000 Leasehold

Bank Chambers, Jermyn Street SW1 A three bedroom, duplex penthouse spanning over 1,300 sq feet in a popular, portered building in London’s oldest district. Situated on the fourth and fifth floors of a sought after Grade II Listed building, this spacious duplex apartment on Jermyn Street comprises three bedrooms (one with en suite facilities), one further bathroom, a double reception room and eat-in kitchen. The property offers panoramic views over Piccadilly and is perfectly situated to enjoy the finest restaurants, bars and shops that the West End has to offer.

Principal Agent £2,350,000 Leasehold

West End Office

St Johns Wood Office

31a Thayer Street, Marylebone, London, W1U 2QS

102 St John’s Wood Terrace, London NW8 6PL

info@hanover-residential.com hanover-residential.com

info@hanover-residential.com hanover-residential.com

020 3540 5990

020 7722 2223


St Pancras Chambers, Euston Road NW1 One of only 68 apartments within this magnificent landmark building. Situated on the fourth & fifth floors, this two bedroom, two bathroom apartment is offered with the benefit of double height ceiling in the living room and the fully fitted kitchen and is one of the few apartments with secondary glazing throughout. The development additionally has 24hr porterage, gym (by subscription) and use of room service (minimum spend £100) serviced by the 5 star Marriott Rennaissance Hotel. St. Pancras Chambers is located within St. Pancras International, which offers a superb selection of shops, cafés and restaurants in King’s Cross and Camden. Transport links include St. Pancras International and King’s Cross Station.

Sole Agent £1,540,000 Leasehold

Wyndham House, Bryanston Square W1 This bright and airy, recently refurbished four bedroom apartment is set on the raised ground floor of this small purpose built, portered block on the highly sought after Bryanston Square. This fantastic family home benefits from excellent natural light, a private patio garden, air conditioning and electric blinds. Bryanston Square, located in the heart of Marylebone, is one of the area’s most prestigious garden squares. It is ideally located for the shopping, restaurant, leisure and transport facilities of both Marylebone High Street and Oxford Street. Regents Park and Hyde Park are both within easy reach.

Joint Sole Agent £2,295,000 Leasehold


Harley House, Marylebone Road NW1 This magnificent three double bedroom, two bathroom apartment benefits from plenty of light and excellent ceiling heights. With an impressive reception room and spacious fully fitted modern eat in kitchen this expansive 1559 sq ft (144.83 sq m) apartment is offered in excellent condition. Harley House is one of the grandest residential innovations of the Edwardian era and benefits from 24 hour porterage and a modern well equipped private gym within the block superbly located a short walk from the apartment. This beautiful building in Marylebone Village is just moments away from the shops and restaurants of Marylebone High Street and the green open spaces of Regent’s Park.

Joint Sole Agent £2,300,000 Leasehold

Bank Chambers, Jermyn Street SW1 A three bedroom, duplex penthouse spanning over 1,300 sq feet in a popular, portered building in London’s oldest district. Situated on the fourth and fifth floors of a sought after Grade II Listed building, this spacious duplex apartment on Jermyn Street comprises three bedrooms (one with en suite facilities), one further bathroom, a double reception room and eat-in kitchen. The property offers panoramic views over Piccadilly and is perfectly situated to enjoy the finest restaurants, bars and shops that the West End has to offer.

Principal Agent £2,350,000 Leasehold

West End Office

St Johns Wood Office

31a Thayer Street, Marylebone, London, W1U 2QS

102 St John’s Wood Terrace, London NW8 6PL

info@hanover-residential.com hanover-residential.com

info@hanover-residential.com hanover-residential.com

020 3540 5990

020 7722 2223



Reeves Mews, Mayfair A stunning freehold house which has been meticulously designed and constructed by Fenton Whelan. This six bedroom property features wonderful entertaining and reception space, roof terrace, gym and integral garage. Entrance hall Reception room Dining room Media room Club room Kitchen Master bedroom suite with his & hers bathrooms and dressing » » » » » » »

rooms » Four further bedrooms (Two en suite) » Bathroom » Shower room » Two guest cloakrooms » Staff accommodation » Laundry

Garage Bar Gym Roof terrace Integrated audio visual system Within minutes of fashion boutiques and restaurants of Mount Street » » » » » »

£27,000,000 020 7580 2030 WWW.ROKSTONE.COM 5 Dorset Street, London, W1U 6QJ

Savills Mayfair 36 North Audley Street London W1K 6ZJ

020 7578 5100 savills.co.uk


We believe that every building is one-of-akind. Every design is created to a unique, specific and personal vision. And every project requires individual understanding, research and planning. Blending architectural flair with building surveying professionalism. Collaborating with clients, suppliers, engineers and builders. Together we create original and beautiful bespoke houses. We are experienced and pragmatic, fresh thinking and innovative; we are Pennington Phillips.

Pennington Phillips 16 Spectrum House 32–34 Gordon House Road London NW5 1LP t: 020 7267 1414 f: 020 7267 7878 design@penningtonphillips.co.uk


North Row, Mayfair, W1K A stylish three bedroom lateral apartment of approx. 2,509 sq ft in a secure portered building on North Row, Mayfair. The accommodation comprises of two good size reception rooms, fitted kitchen, spacious master bedroom with en suite and two further en suite bedrooms, 24 hour porterage and two lifts. EPC Rating D.

John Taylor UK 48 Berkeley Square, London W1J 5AX Tel: 020 3284 1888 Email: london@john-taylor.com.

guide Price £5,650,000 LEASEhold

JSA Knight Frank, Mayfair ABU DHABI MEGEVE •

• AIX-EN-PROVENCE • BARCELONA • CANNES • COURCHEVEL • COSTA BRAVA • GENEVA • GSTAAD • LONDON MERIBEL • MILAN • MONACO • PARIS • ST-JEAN-CAP-FERRAT • ST-PAUL-DE-VENCE • ST-TROPEZ • VALBONNE

www.john-taylor.com


Beauty | The Property | The mayfair mayfair Magazine Magazine

Church sells chunk of Mayfair to Crown Estate

PrimeResi.com reports on the latest news in luxury property

Mayfair’s next mega-mansion?

London cooling: stock levels rise as buyers calm down Prime London’s property market is beginning to settle down, although there are some mixed messages in the statistics. Prices crept up by just 0.3 per cent in July – the third lowest monthly rise since January 2011 – to take the annual growth to +7.9 per cent, according to Knight Frank, which has seen a 25 per cent drop in the number of new prospective buyers and a 10 per cent slump in the number of viewings, but a 3 per cent increase in the number of exchanges this month compared to last year’s levels. The ratio of sold properties to properties for sale on industry portal Lonres, meanwhile, has fallen from 11.9 per cent in June 2013 to 7.2 per cent in June this year – in no small part because applicant numbers in Q2 were 29 per cent down on Q1. New instructions, on the other hand, were 20 per cent up, taking available stock levels up by 30 per cent and allowing the number of recorded exchanges to actually rise by 9 per cent on the quarter.

Mayfair’s grand red-bricks don’t usually hit the open market, which is why this 13,091 sq ft Grade II listed freehold is causing quite the stir. On at £45m with Wetherell and Savills, 7 Balfour Place was converted into six apartments in 1991, but there’s now a strong opportunity to reinstate it as one of W1’s major residences. The building was designed by Eustace Balfour as one of eight mansions – intended to be the grandest Arts & Crafts homes ever built in London – on what was then Portugal Street. It’s had a fairly illustrious past, narrowly missing out on becoming Onassis House after Christina Onassis walked away from buying the property in 1978: ghoulish reporting of the activities of the Process Church-following DeGrimston family, in what became known as ‘Satan’s Cave’, next door may have put her off...

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left: Image courtesy of Wetherell; above: Image courtesy The Crown Estate

PrimeResi news

The Church has offloaded its 64 per cent stake in the Pollen Estate – that four-acre square of Mayfair between Conduit Street, Regent Street, Burlington Gardens and Bond Street – for £381m to Norway’s sovereign wealth fund Norges Bank Investment Management (NBIM) and The Crown Estate. The Pollen Estate’s 43 sites account for around 730,000 sq ft of W1, including Savile Row and Cork Street. It’s the biggest single property sale undertaken by the Church Commissioners for England, and sees NBIM and The Crown Estate expand their existing joint property portfolio. Norges has taken a 57.8 per cent share in the Pollen Estate, while The Crown Estate now holds 6.4 per cent. The two operations already share ownership of the neighbouring £3.25bn Regent Street portfolio (The Crown has 75 per cent and NBIM has 25 per cent). The initial sale brochure for the Pollen patch went to 990 parties; 86 showed real interest, with rival bidders understood to have included Almacantar, the Reuben Brothers and Hong Kong-based Wheelock Woo.


Rare: Not found in large numbers and so of interest or value. Unusually good or remarkable:

, d e m o t s u c c a n u , l a Unusu ingular , unique , s , l a , c i n p o y m at m o c n u , s s e l h c , l a i mat c e p s , e c r a c s , . n golden e e w t e b r few and fa

A genuine real estate company is just such a commodity, rare; - committed to excellence and focussed on clients’ needs and aspirations, exceptional. - providing a truly integrated range of services, remarkable. - with three generations of expertise in premium real estate – singularly Pastor.

Sales / Lettings / Property Management / Consultancy / Investment / Architecture / Commercial / Project Management

www.pastor-realestate.com PASTOR REAL ESTATE 48 CURZON STREET, LONDON, W1J 7UL • T +44 (0)20 3195 9595 F +44 (0)20 3195 9596


FOR SALE RIVERSIDE PENTHOUSE WITH PANORAMIC VIEWS

Price on application

BENBOW HOUSE, NEW GLOBE WALK, LONDON SE1

FURTHER DETAILS:

Magnificent riverside penthouse apartment on the Southbank opposite St Paul’s with breath-taking panoramic views of the London skyline, moments from Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre and Tate Modern, in one of London’s most exciting and vibrant areas.

Michael Harte T +44 (0)20 3195 9595 E sales@pastor-realestate.com

Offering a rare opportunity to purchase a stunning architecturally designed apartment, the property offers 4,600 sq ft (428 sq m) of luxury living space including a spectacular reception room with full length glass windows, separate dining and drawing room areas and a galleried library, four double bedrooms, a wood panelled study together with two terraces and balconies. Additional amenities include 24 hour concierge service and two parking spaces. • Leasehold: Approximately 986 years remaining

PASTOR REAL ESTATE 48 CURZON STREET, LONDON, W1J 7UL • T +44 (0)20 3195 9595 F +44 (0)20 3195 9596


www.pastor-realestate.com

FOR SALE CENTRAL LONDON TOWNHOUSE

ÂŁ5,750,000

DERBY STREET, MAYFAIR, LONDON W1

FURTHER DETAILS:

Delightful Mayfair townhouse located in a charming cobbled street, moments from Park Lane. Newly decorated throughout and interior designed.

Michael Harte

The property offers bright, flexible family living and entertaining accommodation extending to 2,700 sq ft (251 sq m). Entrance hall, dining/reception room, drawing room, study, master bedroom suite with dressing room, three further bedrooms, three bathrooms, kitchen, utility and large roof terrace with skyline views of Mayfair. The lower ground floor could be additional entertaining space or a self-contained guest suite. • Freehold

T +44 (0)20 3195 9595 E sales@pastor-realestate.com


TO LET MAYFAIR, LONDON W1

£1,200 per week

Beautifully presented three bedroom apartment quietly located in a popular Mayfair mews. Offering spacious accommodation the apartment is accessed via a private entrance from the mews. Entrance hall, split level reception room, fully fitted eat-in kitchen leading to private patio, two double bedrooms, one single bedroom/study, excellent storage throughout, two bathrooms (one en-suite).

FURTHER DETAILS:

TO LET MARYLEBONE, LONDON W1

£850 per week

Interior designed 740 sq ft (69 sq m) apartment with a balcony on the 6th floor of this luxury development ideally located for the shops, restaurants and transport facilities of the West End and a few minute’s walk from Marylebone High Street. Entrance hall, reception room with wood flooring, two double bedrooms, two bathrooms, fully fitted kitchen with granite worktops, air conditioning.

FURTHER DETAILS:

Spencer Taffurelli T +44 (0)20 3195 9595 E lettings@pastor-realestate.com

Spencer Taffurelli T +44 (0)20 3195 9595 E lettings@pastor-realestate.com

PASTOR REAL ESTATE 48 CURZON STREET, LONDON, W1J 7UL • T +44 (0)20 3195 9595 F +44 (0)20 3195 9596


www.pastor-realestate.com

TO LET MAYFAIR, LONDON W1

£1950 per week

Set in the heart of Mayfair between Grosvenor Square and Park Lane this elegantly decorated and beautifully furnished flat has been fitted to the highest standard to offer a spacious luxury home. Reception room, dining room, two double bedrooms (one en-suite), single bedroom, family bathroom, fully fitted kitchen, guest cloakroom, security alarm and video entry phone.

FURTHER DETAILS: T +44 (0)20 3195 9595 E lettings@pastor-realestate.com

TO LET MAYFAIR, LONDON W1

£1195 per week

Beautiful two bedroom penthouse in this small purpose built block with direct lift access and the benefit of an amazing roof terrace as well as access to Mayfair’s Secret Gardens. Entrance hall, reception/dining room, two double bedrooms, two luxury bathrooms, fully fitted kitchen, stairs to large private wood decked roof terrace with wonderful rooftop views.

FURTHER DETAILS:

Spencer Taffurelli

Spencer Taffurelli T +44 (0)20 3195 9595 E lettings@pastor-realestate.com


Bon voyage Bordeaux is known for its wine, with opulent food following closely behind. Indulge yourself in a stay at famed hotelier Michel Reybier’s stunning French château WORDS: BETHAN REES

all photography courtesy of Grégoire Gardette

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The mayfair Magazine | Property

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rnest Hemingway once mused: ‘Wine is one of the most civilized things in the world and one of the most natural things of the world that has been brought to the greatest perfection, and it offers a greater range for enjoyment and appreciation than, possibly, any other purely sensory thing.’ Now, the perfect opportunity has arisen for passionate oenophiles or for those who enjoy a glass of wine under the stars of southern France. Michel Reybier, owner of the La Réserve Hospitality Collection, is opening his home up in the heart of a grand cru classé estate for selected, exclusive-use stays.

‘To celebrate his success, he topped his wine cellars with exotic pagodas, which are still present at the château today’ La Chartreuse de Cos d’Estournel, a winery in Bordeaux, is steeped in history; Louis Gaspard d’Estournel originally inherited some vineyards near the village of Cos and, after realising the quality of grapes he possessed, decided to vinify them separately. In doing so, he rapidly started to produce wine that exceeded the value of the most prestigious vintages. After exporting to India he gained the nickname ‘the Maharaja of Saint-Esthèphe’, and to celebrate his success, he topped his wine cellars with exotic pagodas, which are still present at the château today. The residence, which sleeps up to 16 guests in two suites and a further six guestrooms, differs to the other properties in Reybier’s portfolio such as La Réserve Genève, an award-winning hotel and spa. It performs as an exclusive, private home away from home of the highest specification, but with the hospitality of the La Réserve Collection, including an in-house team headed by ‘la maîtresse de maison’, Carole Valette. The views over the 200-acres of vineyards are breathtaking, and the gardens provide the ideal balance of 

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Property | The mayfair Magazine

‘Cos d’Estournel retains the soul and personality of a charming family home’ seclusion and splendour, a sight for sore eyes for any city dweller. Cos d’Estournel retains the soul and personality of a charming family home, but designer Jacques Garcia has injected his creative energy throughout the property. Garcia is a renowned French architect and interior designer, and his most recent work includes the extensive redesign of the 18th-century decorative arts galleries at Musée de Louvre.

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In-keeping with the Sino-Indian characteristics, the estate is filled with embroidered silks, gold-leaf chandeliers and ancient black Indian doors. The residence has everything you could possibly want of both a home, and a hotel; a library, an indoor pool, a steam room and staff tending to your every need, including filling you with regional delights, which adds an extra cordiality you wouldn’t find in a conventional holiday rental. Retire to the large living room following a feast of d’Agneau de Pauillac lamb raised on the salt by the d’Estournel estate – it would be rude not to. La Chartreuse de Cos d’Estournel is available exclusively from one-night to week-long stays (00 33 06 0833 2975; estournel.com)


Shhh...

We don’t always need to shout about our properties. When it comes to selling homes, we have some clients who prefer a private, more discreet service. If you would like help in selling (or letting) your property, whether privately or openly, please contact our Mayfair office on: mayfair@carterjonas.co.uk | 020 7493 0676

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