Vantage Magazine April 2016

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Issue 69

Contents

12

12 | The Fine Print Matthew Williamson on his new furniture collection and his Belsize Park home

16 | Cabin Fever The self-proclaimed ‘King of Design’ Philippe Starck introduces his most technologically advanced project yet with the Lakes by yoo

22

34 | Fashionably Late Nicole Farhi waves goodbye to fashion as she embarks on a new adventure in the art world

56 | La Frida Loca Discover the life and style of Mexican artist Frida Kahlo with Assouline’s new tome

66 | April Tools Accessorise your home with our guide to this season’s most covetable interior trends

72 | A Sketchy Business The House of Illustration opens a new gallery dedicated to the work of Quentin Blake

98 | Feast in the East

66

42 34

Shanghai and Chengdu score highly in the food stakes and there’s not a Peking duck in sight

regulars - 21 -

collection

- 31 -

spotlight

- 41 -

fashion & beauty

- 63 -

HOME & interiors

- 69 -

health & family

- 83 -

food & drink

- 87-

the art of travel

- 103 -

property


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editor's letter

APRIL 2016 / ISSUE 69 acting Editor Lauren Romano Collection EditorS Richard Brown Olivia Sharpe editorial assistant Ellen Millard Editorial intern Amelia Mayes Senior Designer Daniel Poole Production Hugo Wheatley Jamie Steele Danny Lesar Alice Ford Client Relationship Director Friday Dalrymple Executive Director Sophie Roberts General Manager Fiona Fenwick Managing Director Eren Ellwood Proudly published and printed in the UK by

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From the editor “A bit like my clothes, I prefer to make something poor look rich. I think that comes from my work ethic and from my parents. I’m not about glitz,” so says fashion designer Matthew Williamson of his latest foray into homeware. Don’t be fooled. His unsubtle collection of day beds, sofas and boudoir chairs for Duresta comes in marbled butterfly and fuchsia floral prints, with flamingo legs and feathers alongside other finishing touches. Ahead of the launch party at Harrods, the ever zany Williamson puts on his best Alan Sugar impression as he sits down with Ellen Millard to talk about the design inspiration for his bohemian Belsize Park flat, as well as his most prized possession: a stuffed peacock called Wayne (p.12). Just down the road in Hampstead, chez Nicole Farhi might be less eclectic, but Hannah Lemon spies some interesting knick-knacks, including a bust of Anna Wintour keeping watch from a shelf. Farhi offers us a glimpse of her garden studio as she opens up about leaving her eponymous fashion label to sculpt full-time (p.34). Further afield Philippe Starck’s preferred home isn’t a bricks and mortar sort of abode. The acclaimed French designer owns a prefabricated cabin in the middle of nowhere, and he’s encouraging others to do the same with the launch of his most technologically advanced living solution to date. Turn to page 16 for more on mailorder homes, philosophy and his hero Bill Gates. Elsewhere Gabrielle Lane investigates the gadgets and gizmos set to boost our health and beauty regime this spring (p.76) – from DNA tailored skincare to a mindreading app that promises inner calm – so you can mentally prepare yourself before tackling any home projects of your own. And if you’re searching for a side table with flamingo legs, you know where to find one.

Lauren Lauren Romano Acting Editor

On the cover Duresta for Matthew Williamson furniture collection, available exclusively at Harrods. Read more on p.12

Other titles by RWMG



The Fine

Print All photography: Duresta for Matthew Williamson, Exclusive to Harrods


interview

On the eve of the Duresta for Matthew Williamson launch at Harrods, the designer talks to Ellen Millard about his love for interiors, his house in Belsize Park and his peacock Wayne 

“I

feel like Alan Sugar,” Matthew Williamson quips as I walk into the interiors department of Harrods, where he’s sat at the end of a long boardroom-like table. “You’re fired!” Perched under a gold and coral peacock feather lampshade with a glass of champagne in his hand, Williamson is a world away from Lord Sugar’s The Apprentice, although I bet the businessman’s aides Karren Brady and Claude Littner wouldn’t object to a staff reshuffle. But starring roles in reality TV shows will have to wait. Williamson has his plate full running his fashion and lifestyle brand. He’ll celebrate 20 years in business in September, but plans to slow down are few and far between. When I ask him what he would be if he weren’t a designer, he draws a blank. He mentions possibly being a gardener, but it’s clear that design is all he has ever wanted to do, having discovered his love for fashion at an early age. “My mum was the reason I wanted to become a fashion designer. She had, and still has, an impression on me and when I was a child she inspired me. She just really cared about her appearance and it didn’t feel like a vain thing. It felt empowering, if you like,” he explains. “She would spend what little money she had on making herself look the best she could and in doing so people flocked to her. I remember thinking ‘that’s so powerful, and it’s making her feel good’.” Williamson left his hometown of Manchester at the age of 17, moving to London where he studied fashion design at Central Saint Martins. After graduating he worked for Monsoon, but was there for only three years before leaving to set up his own business. His bohemian prints and exotic designs caught the eye of Vogue’s thenfashion assistant Plum Sykes, and shortly after being featured in the fashion bible retailer Browns bought 75 of his dresses and Jade Jagger was photographed wearing one of his designs on the cover of Tatler. Since then Williamson’s clothes have been sported by Sienna Miller, Poppy Delevingne, Lindsay Lohan and Blake Lively, to name a few, but it’s his first fashion show that he cites as the pivotal moment in his career. “It just changed everything that I was doing, largely because of who wanted to wear my clothes,” he says of

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Vantage | 13


the show that saw Kate Moss, Jade Jagger and Helena Christensen walk down the catwalk in his designs. “The next day I thought: ‘OK, there must be something in what I’m doing’. That was a big moment.” He’s since ditched the fashion show format, embracing the digital age and closing his bricksand-mortar store in favour of an online shop, where he plans to expand his offering to include lifestyle collections. “I think my strength is in lifestyle,” he confesses. “I’m keen to design products – my passion is for colour, pattern, textiles, travel, culture and those exotic elements. I love bringing my DNA to whatever product I’m working on.” Over the years he’s dabbled in interior design – a cushion line for Debenhams and a wallpaper range for Osborne & Little – but he calls his most recent collaboration with Nottingham-based sofa manufacturer Duresta “a dream project”. “Interior design has been a not-so-secret passion for me,” he smiles. “This was a straightforward no-brainer ‘yes I’d love to do it’. I have a box of images at home that I’ve collected of things that have caught my eye, so putting the collection together was quite impulsive. I knew what I wanted to do because I had already formed ideas in case I ever worked on this kind of project. I’ve just done what I love and I hope other people love it too.” The collection has put Duresta’s team of artisans to the test with hand-carved boudoir chairs, silver leaf day beds and the label’s signature sofas upholstered in Williamson’s vibrant prints. Traditional lounge furniture is covered in electric blue marble butterflies, fuchsia florals and pinwheel prints. They brighten up the Harrods’ showroom (where they are available exclusively), arranged next to pink tray tables with whimsical flamingo legs and turquoise console tables with peacock feet. “My taste is eclectic, as you can probably imagine,” Williamson says. “My good friend Kelly Hoppen and I laugh all the time about our styles because they’re polar opposites. She has this beautiful white and black marble home and it couldn’t be further from mine. She must be like ‘what is all this’? But I think there’s room for a bit of both, a balance between the two.” He says his Victorian townhouse in Belsize Park has “good bones”, with parquet floors and big French doors, but he doesn’t mind scrimping on homeware. “A bit like my clothes, I prefer to make something poor look rich. I think that comes from my work ethic and from my parents. I’m not about glitz…” He breaks off and gestures to the peacock lamp next to him and laughs. “I think there’s a glamour to what I do, whether it’s home or fashion. There was an article the other day where I apparently said my style was ‘organised bohemia’, which I quite like. My mum comes to my house and she thinks my lounge

“I prefer to make something poor look rich. I think that comes from my work ethic and from my parents. I’m not about glitz”

Fontaine Day Bed in Butterfly Wheel Jade, as shown £3,533; Large Estelle Teal Scatter Cushion, £89; Small Butterfly Wheel Jade Scatter Cushion, £120; Small Mistral Teal Scatter Cushion, £63


interview

Wine Table with Feather Print Lacquer Top, £2,577

is a little busy, but what she doesn’t know is that everything is in its place, to my eyes.” Williamson loves Harrods and Liberty for homeware if he’s “feeling flush”, but says he can pick pieces up from anywhere. “It could be Homebase! I could spend hours in Homebase,” he laughs. “You heard it here first: any aisle, I can be in there for hours. I love it.” He jokes that if somebody broke into his house there’d be nothing worth stealing. His most treasured items are inexpensive, sentimental pieces: a necklace with charms picked up on his travels and a bowl of rocks collected from the beach. “Oh, and the peacock; he was quite expensive. My dad called him Wayne,” he deadpans. If anyone were to have a pet peacock it would be Williamson, but it turns out that the designer discovered Wayne on a shoot with ELLE Decoration. “I asked the stylist where it was from and she said London Taxidermy, so I had to have him,” he smiles. “He sits proudly in the lounge.” The seats of his new Duresta sofas are still warm but Williamson has already got more projects in the pipeline, namely a colouring book due for release later this year and a potential tableware collection. He jokes that in ten years’ time he’ll be “lying on a beach,” but it looks unlikely. “If it wasn’t fun, I wouldn’t do it,” he concludes. “I have a rule: if I get out of bed three out of five days a week feeling happy, then that’s good. And I will keep on designing for as long as I love it.” Duresta for Matthew Williamson is available exclusively at Harrods, 020 7730 1234 duresta.com

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Vantage | 15


P.A.T.H. exterior, photography Š Baptiste Lanne


interview

Philippe Starck

Fever

Cabin

Philippe Starck has always thought outside the box and, at 67, the visionary French designer has launched his most technologically advanced, energy-efficient development to date. Olivia Sharpe crosses paths with the self-proclaimed “king of design” 

“W

hen I was a little boy, I was very sad, alone and depressed. That’s why I had to create my own world. Like any boy, I wanted toys, so I would make my own in our basement using my father’s tools. There was also a big sand box in the garden where I would create my own cities. So I began my work as a designer by creating toys in the basement and I discovered the world of architecture by playing with sand.” Philippe Starck’s nostalgic reflections may seem a tad dark, but in fact are endearingly characteristic of the famously outspoken French designer, who has set the world alight with his ingenious inventions for four decades. While today in our technologically driven world, the old school sand box has been replaced with virtual reality console systems such as SimCity, we can all appreciate that childhood desire to escape to an imaginary world where buildings spring out of the

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ground and money is a never-ending resource. These pipe dreams invariably get blown away in the real world. This isn’t the case for Starck. Since childhood, the now world-renowned designer and architect has made it his mission to demonstrate how society should live based on his own unique vision that, in many ways, goes against established conventions. His vast portfolio covers all aspects of human life, from residential properties, luxury hotels and super yachts (having created Steve Jobs’ vessel in 2012), right down to the humble (but nonetheless essential) lavatory brush and lemon squeezer. At 67, Starck’s creative juices are by no means drying up, as highlighted by his latest residential project: P.A.T.H. The groundbreaking concept in collaboration with Riko, a leading ecological building manufacturer, is his most advanced living solution to date. “P.A.T.H. stands for prefabricated, accessible, technological and…I’ve forgotten the last one,” he admits laughing

Vantage | 17


when I eventually get him on the phone (he doesn’t own a telephone and rarely gives interviews so reaching him is almost impossible). After I fill in the final blank of ‘home’ for him, he continues: “The story of PA.T.H. began 20 years ago when I built my first prefabricated house by mail order and it has since become an obsession. I think it’s a scandal to spend so much money on such low-quality housing when we all need to have a home to keep our families out of the rain.” Starck shies away from producing one-off products in favour of mass-produced housing solutions that can benefit everyone. Each of the 34 state-of-the-art house models in the P.A.T.H. range seamlessly integrate solar, thermal and The Barnhouse with interiors by Kate Moss

The Barnhouse exterior

Image courtesy of The Lakes by yoo

wind turbine technology systems. As well as fulfilling Starck’s aim of “producing more energy than they consume”, the homes are also time and cost-efficient to produce, taking just six months to complete, at an average price of approximately £1,950 to £3,495 per square metre. What’s more, the homes incorporate Starck’s timeless design aesthetic, but can be customised according to clients’ wishes. Buyers can choose from a range of different facades (all-glass outer shell, a combination of wooden walls and glass surfaces, or a full wooden structure), roofing types and interior finishes. “My basic mission is to create open technical solutions in order to face the future,” explains Philippe. “This is the reason why the architectural possibilities are very broad and flexible. I didn’t want to impose anything on anyone.” One of P.A.T.H.’s prime locations is at The Lakes by yoo in the Cotsworlds, part of Starck and property developer John Hitchcox’s leading residential design company. It was founded in 1999, and now boasts some 50,000 properties worldwide. Starck needed some persuading before he agreed to Hitchcox’s concept for yoo (which was to develop houses and later hotels using a slick design team), but he soon found that they shared a common interest in improving the quality of people’s homes. Driving into the exclusive 650-acre gated estate in Gloucestershire, it is hard not to be impressed by the beautifully picturesque retreat for wealthy city-dwellers. “I had been looking for a site to create a country retreat for like-minded Londoners for quite a few years,” explains Hitchcox. “When I eventually found this, it was obvious that there was great potential to create a wilderness retreat for a handful of private houses.” Hitchcox’s luxury second-home boltholes have been modelled on Canadian cabins, while the


interview

surrounding woodland looks like “something out of Swallows and Amazons”. This all comes free from the stressful upkeep a country holiday home usually has attached to it, because The Lakes by yoo has an on-site concierge service, spa, gym and sporting facilities. Unsurprisingly, the development has attracted a wealth of fashionable clientele and celebrity designers Jade Jagger and Kate Moss (who lives nearby) have also been called upon to design homes. However, dig beneath this manicured surface and you will find that there is a lot more to The Lakes by yoo than meets the eye. The prefabricated homes have all been constructed to blend into their natural setting, incorporating the most energy-efficient materials. The PA.T.H. properties will be very much at home in this environment (although a plot on the Lakes by yoo development by will set you back a heftier £1.9m). Starck built his own P.A.T.H. home for himself, his wife and five children several years ago, believing it is his duty to leave something behind that will benefit future generations. He might refer to himself as “the king of design”, but Starck is not arrogant, arguing that his designs are ultimately “obsolete and useless tools” because they cannot save lives. “Design is merely a cosmetic to the world, but don’t ask somebody who has cancer to be happy with a lipstick. Design is a lipstick.” He confides that it has always been his biggest regret that he is unable to create something lifechanging. Does he ever wish he had followed in the footsteps of his father, an aeronautical engineer? “It is my dream, but it is too late,” he answers, sadly. “I was never good at school and I still don’t know my alphabet, division or multiplication.

Many of the things other people know, I don’t.” While he may be less educated than he would like, listening to Starck explain his vision is akin to listening to a physicist trying to explain dark matter: almost incomprehensible to a layman. Despite being one of the most progressive designers of our time, Starck’s lifestyle is strangely archaic, living “like an autist in the middle of nowhere often without any electricity or hot water”. Since boyhood, he tells me he never felt he fitted in with the outside world. In order for society to start making positive changes to the world, the designer holds the philosophy that we should lead a “selfconscious life” because even the smallest altruistic, human actions can make a difference. “When I see a nice couple in love in a restaurant who don’t have a lot of money, I pay for them and they are surprised. Sometimes they come to me and say ‘why did you do that?’ and I say ‘because if you could you would do the same thing’.” One of his heroes is Bill Gates, who famously pledged 95 per cent of his fortune to charity. “Could you have ever imagined that the richest man, who created his wealth through his intelligence, has then given his profits back to the world? It is incredible.” Although Starck feels he cannot be “proud of producing materiality”, he does feel he has achieved something with projects such as PA.T.H. in helping people to lead better lives and he has stayed true to his principles. “You can be proud to have soul and to give honest answers. It is not a lot, but it is very philosophical, political work. In this way, I have won. I have made it.”

“The story of P.A.T.H. began 20 years ago when I built my first prefabricated home and it has since become an obsession”

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thelakesbyyoo.com/properties/starck-house

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Two worlds collide To celebrate the 85th anniversary of the Reverso wristwatch, Jaeger-LeCoultre has given Christian Louboutin free rein to apply his own inventiveness on the iconic timepiece. The original Reverso was designed by Jacques-David LeCoultre in 1931 at the request of British army officers in India. They wanted a watch that could stand the trials of a polo match. LeCoultre’s answer was a flip dial watch whose face could be concealed against the wrist during play. Louboutin’s Reverso Classic Duetto is available in two sizes: 34.2mm x 21mm and 40mm x 24.4mm. It retains the watch’s emblematic face on the front, while the back takes on a far more Christian Louboutin feel – framed, as it is, by two rows of diamonds on either side of the dial. Reverso Classic Duetto, small (pink gold) £15,200 medium (steel) £7,950, Jaeger-LeCoultre jaeger-lecoultre.com

Vantage | 21


collection

Jewellery news By Olivia Sharpe

Bee line There has evidently been a hive of activity at Theo Fennell’s Chelsea workshop because the company has just released a series of pieces in collaboration with Forevermark diamonds. “It has been wonderful to work with the best cut, most recognisable, ethically-sourced stones in the world. I believe we have done them justice,” says Fennell. Fusing the jeweller’s trademark meticulous craftsmanship with Forevermark’s diamond expertise, it is a partnership that has the jewellery industry buzzing, with standout pieces including the Bee brooch. Featuring a 3.13-carat diamond with pavé stones set in 18-carat gold, the brooch also doubles as a pendant.

Vogue on British Vogue has been setting trends in the world of design for a century. In light of this milestone, royal jeweller Mappin & Webb, which appeared in the very first issue published in September 1916, has chosen to collaborate with the publication on a unique piece of jewellery. The limited-edition Vogue 100 sterling silver bracelet pays tribute to the magazine’s centenary through the engraved medallion and diamond set charm, and honours Mappin & Webb as one of Britain’s leading silversmiths. This reputation was cemented in 1897 when it was granted a Royal Warrant by HM Queen Victoria.

Bee brooch, £125,000, 169 Fulham Road, SW3, theofennell.com

Ahead of the game

Vogue 100 bracelet, £295, Old Bond Street, W1S, mappinandwebb.com

Drama queen Never one to rest on her laurels, Lydia Courteille’s new Queen of Sheba collection was a hit when it was unveiled at this year’s Paris Haute Couture Week. The jeweller has paid homage to the legendary biblical figure in 18 high jewellery pieces comprising precious stones that originate from Ethiopia, the country she famously ruled over. A ring featuring vivid tsavorites and tourmalines is set in earthy brown rhodium gold to showcase its natural beauty, while a green peridot tiara surrounded by diamonds, sapphires and tsavorites (that form two snakes in the centre) is the perfect tribute to the mythical queen.

As we await the 2016 Olympic & Paralympic Games in Rio, all eyes are on Brazil and how the country will shape up for the world-famous event. Here is London Brazilianborn jeweller Lily Elia is preparing for a busy summer of her own. Since launching her fine jewellery company Lily Gabriella in 2011, it has gone from strength to strength and this year sees the arrival of its first website. As well as giving customers the option to browse collections and buy pieces online, the site also showcases the latest range, Love Me. Sassy Chic and Ouh Lala ear cuff £750 each, lilygabriella.com

POA, lydiacourteille.com

22 | Vantage

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COLLECTION

Watch news By Richard Brown

Gold standard The world’s most iconic precious metal has been reintroduced to one of Audemars Piguet’s most iconic watches. Missing from collections for years, yellow gold returns to a range of the brand’s Royal Oak timepieces. Considered a purer alternative to red or rose gold, yellow gold versions of eight watches are now available, including the Royal Oak Chronograph, Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar and Royal Oak Selfwinding. City boys will be thrilled.

Strike three

audemarspiguet.com

Ahead of Baselword 2016, the brothers behind Bremont have announced the launch of three new core collection timepieces. The MBII (£3,595) is now available with a white dial and features a striking new look, with a distinctive knurled effect on the aluminium barrel; the ALT1-C Polished Black Chronograph (£4,695) adds to Bremont’s first non-limited edition polished steel range; while the ALT1-ZT/51 (£4,295) is one of the brand’s most handsome timepieces to date. bremont.com

Collector’s edition The recently revealed Luminor 8 Days Set is sure to make any self-styled ‘Paneristi’ weak at the knees. The collectible set contains two watches inspired by models created between 1993 and 1997 – the period from the brand’s first public collection, to the year it was acquired by the Richemont group. Only a tiny number of watches were produced in that time and they have become highly sought-after. The box contains a Luminor Black Seal LeftHanded 8 Days, a Luminor Daylight 8 Days, and a model of a slow-speed Siluro a Lenta Corsa torpedo. Luminor 8 Days Set, £15,200 panerai.com

World traveller Time travel is the watch world’s current buzzword du jour. Everyone from small independents to industry heavyweights is thinking up ways of keeping us on time wherever we are on the planet. While lacking second time zone or world time functions, Vacheron Constantin’s updated Overseas collection has been designed with the jetsetter in mind. The range includes five new models (12 references in total), all of which are equipped with manufacture movements and are water-resistant to a minimum of 50 metres. Available in steel or gold, the sporty timepieces can be dressed up or kept casual thanks to easily interchangeable bracelets and straps. vacheron-constantin.com

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Photography Philip Waterman | Stylist Jess Stebbings

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19/02/2016 14:28:58


Work like a

Charm

Fawaz Gruosi has become a superstar on the international jewellery scene and at 63, he shows no signs of slowing down. The Geneva-based founder of De Grisogono discusses women, diamonds and the future with Olivia Sharpe 

C

harm is an impossible thing to define, but very easy to spot. I can therefore confirm that after meeting Fawaz Gruosi, founder of De Grisogono, he has it in diamonds. And judging from the steady stream of female celebrities pictured with him over the years, I am not the first woman to think so.

All store images courtesy of Adrien Dirand Portrait of Fawaz Gruosi by Toby Webb

This year, De Grisogono opened its new London flagship and while the design project was undertaken by the David Collins studio, Gruosi played a big hand in terms of the overall look and feel. The sumptuous interior, from the emerald green and ruby red upholstery to the amethyst floors, complements the vivid gemstones on display. The space is divided into three separate areas – the Corte, Stanza del Tempo and Grand Sala – based on the idea of a traditional Italian house to tie in with the founder’s Florentine heritage. At 63, Fawaz Gruosi hasn’t let standards slip, impeccably dressed in a custom-made suit courtesy of Milanese tailor A.Caraceni and a bespoke Turnbull & Asser shirt. As he talks airily, lightly waving a cigarette around and occasionally pausing to sip his coffee, I can see how the sophisticated jeweller, with his old school Italian glamour, has won over so many female fans over the years. The turnover for the store’s creation occurred in the record-breaking time of just 12 months, making it very clear that the jeweller has by no means settled for the slow lane in life. Fawaz founded his company in Geneva in 1993 and it currently boasts 14 stores around the world, but he insists that he wants to cap the number at 30. “My principle from the beginning was for ladies at cocktail parties not to be wearing the same jewellery pieces,” he explains. “This is what has been happening in fashion for a long time, but it has almost


collection

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Vantage | 27


never happened with us and I want to keep it that way. This is why I’m against opening too many shops. It will mean losing the charm of the company.” The jeweller’s playboy lifestyle has been welldocumented over the years (his annual Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc parties in Cannes have become the stuff of legend), but make no mistake, he has never lost his shrewd business acumen. Having started De Grisogono on a shoestring, unable to afford “to open a chocolate shop never mind a jewellery company”, this made him more resolute than ever to steer his own path. “If you look in every major city – New York, London, Paris, Milan, Dubai – you see so much jewellery. I realised that the market needed something new, something different.” While financially hard-up when starting his business, Fawaz had a wealth of experience in the industry (albeit no formal training), starting as young as 18 working for a jeweller before being taken on by two heavyweight brands: Harry Winston followed by Bulgari. As Winston’s representative in Dubai in the late ‘70s, Fawaz was given a taste of true luxury, looking after clients when the oil boom in Saudi Arabia had resulted in “money falling from the sky”. Like something out of Wall Street, he was taken out for lavish lunches and dinners and barely worked three hour days, but he confides that he soon got tired of the high life. “Life was getting too easy and I was scared, scared because I realised I was starting to develop the same mentality as them. There is nothing wrong with that if you have the money, but I didn’t. If I had stayed another three years, I don’t think I ever would have left.” Following this, he went on to work for Bulgari for eight years under the mentorship of then CEO Gianni Bulgari. A huge contrast to Dubai, after three months of being confined to Gianni’s office living off an apple and a yoghurt every day and “nearly dying from the cigarette smoke from six in the morning until midnight” (when he no doubt picked up his habit), Gianni gave the then 33-year-old Fawaz the post of looking after

VIPs worldwide. “It was probably the best time of my life”, he reminisces. “Bulgari was considered God at the time and pieces were selling like hot cakes.” However, according to the jeweller, a family disagreement resulted in the CEO walking out in 1985 and Fawaz following him. Both experiences taught Fawaz some invaluable lessons, the most important of which was that he had to offer something different from a market that had become tired and derivative. “There were a lot of rich people who bought a lot of jewellery, but they stopped buying because it had all become the same.” Therefore, after splitting from his two partners, he took his first (of several) major business risks when he started buying black diamonds, which at the time


collection

launched its first timepiece collection. A relative stripling in comparison to other historic Swiss watchmakers, I ask Fawaz what distinguishes his contemporary designs apart. “It’s very simple. A lot of jewellers sell classic watches that are exactly the same style as their grandfathers’. For instance, I don’t do jewellery sets because the client ends up looking like a Christmas tree. It’s like clothes. You mix colours, styles, but you have to have a bit of taste to put them together properly.” While acknowledging at the time that he knew nothing about the mechanics of watchmaking, what he has always known is design. Tired of seeing the same old traditional styles, Fawaz instead wanted to create more simple, pared-back pieces that emphasised function. Over the years, De Grisogono has brought the watch industry forward with pioneering innovations, such as the Meccanico DG: the first mechanical watch to power a digital-style display. Fawaz teases that the one thing his female customers all share in common is jealousy: “When a lady comes into our shop, there is typically another woman with her saying, ‘no it doesn’t suit you’, or ‘no it’s too expensive.’ So I hate it when a few ladies come in because 90 per cent of the time we lose a sale.” However, it is clear that it is his love of women that has enabled him to tap into what kind of jewellery they want to wear. And he even goes so far to admit that one of his longest-standing clients, Sharon Stone, shares many similarities with him. “She is the one I get along with most because she’s a bit crazy like me. She’s always fun, but very difficult at the same time,” he finishes, smiling. Today, De Grisogono is a truly global force and although its founder notes that the rest of the industry is afraid of how the current political unrest will affect sales in the future, for the jeweller it is business as usual. “I’m going on like everything is perfect.” And considering Fawaz’s life experience, you can see why.

“I hate it when a few ladies come into my store because 90 percent of the time we lose a sale”

had no market value. After receiving a lot of criticism, he nearly decided to pack it in altogether, but then he received his big break in 1995 when two other big name jewellers starting using the stones too. Today, natural black diamonds are valued very highly, thereby proving that his decision paid off. From then on, it seemed that everything the jeweller touched turned to gold as he next invested in milky diamonds. Up until that point, they had been widely disregarded as “defective stones”, but Fawaz rebranded them ‘icy diamonds’ and they were an overnight success. Along with mixing unusual stones and materials, the jeweller was breaking new ground when it came to design, experimenting with off-thewall creations that were praised for their daring, playfulness and ingenuity. “I was coming out with a lot of craziness, but that craziness was quickly becoming something that was considered innovative.” A true artist, Fawaz has never sacrificed design in favour of making a profit and he therefore puts shape first, stones second. “You have to be completely crazy to cut a 15-carat ruby because it is extremely unusual and rare to find, and you lose a lot of the weight by cutting it.” Fawaz’s motto is: “It is in the freedom of details that you find pure luxury.” In 2000, De Grisogono

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15a New Bond Street, W1S degrisogono.com

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In the frame Hampstead’s Atlas Gallery celebrates the past 60 years of fashion photography in its latest exhibition. With works by Richard Avedon, Irving Penn and Helmut Newton, Fashion Show: 60 Years of Fashion Photography delves into the portfolios of some of the most celebrated fashion photographers from the last six decades. More than 40 images will be on display, including previously unseen work by German photographer Erwin Blumenfeld, a portrait of Twiggy by American photographer Burt Glinn (pictured) and an early image of Kate Moss by British shutterbug Tony McGee. Until 24 March, Atlas Gallery, 49 Dorset Street, W1U, atlasgallery.com Twiggy, London, England. 1966 Š Burt Glinn / Magnum Photos

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EDITOR'S PICK

In the round

Local news

This year is a big one for the Roundhouse. June is the 10th anniversary of the art centre’s reopening as a charity following an extensive refurbishment; July marks 40 years since the Ramones played here; and in October the venue itself turns 50. To celebrate, the summer schedule includes the premiere of Akram Khan’s Until the Lions; an intimate

By Amelia Mayes

Carnival of animals Wildlife television presenter Kate Humble and renowned ornithologist Bill Oddie will be on the judging panel for this year’s ZSL Animal Photography Prize 2016. The competition is open to amateur and professional photographers, adults and juniors across six categories, including two new ones: At Home in their Habitat and Urban City Life. Competition closes 15 May, zsl.org/photo-prize

Wall of fame Celebrity is the subject of Gagosian Gallery’s latest exhibition Avedon Warhol. Bright, large-scale silkscreen portraits by Warhol are juxtaposed with the signature black and white photos of fashion photographer Richard Avedon to create a dialogue between the two artists who are both widely credited with transforming the art scene of post-war America. The exhibition shows the contemporary artists’ contrasting interpretations of the social driving forces of the time, with depictions of famous faces like Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe and Louis Armstrong. Until 23 April, 6-24 Britannia Street, WC1X, gagosian.com

2015 adult runner up Turtle Portrait © Michael Gallagher

Above, from L-R: Richard Avedon, Audrey Hepburn, New York, January 20, 1967, photography by Richard Avedon © The Richard Avedon Foundation; Andy Warhol, Miriam Davidson, 1965, spray paint and silkscreen ink on canvas. Private Collection © 2015 The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. / Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York


spotlight

Dawn chorus Opened in March, Sophia Contemporary is dedicated to showcasing art works from the Middle East. To kickstart its programme, the gallery’s inaugural exhibition The Breeze at Dawn presents major works by celebrated Iranian artist Reza Derakshani. Known for its heavy brushstrokes and textured surface effects, Derakshani’s work is a collision of contemporary practice and traditional subject matter and depicts abstract and figurative scenes that evoke social and political themes, including migration, history and modernity. Above: Reza Derakshani, Sunset Hunting and Hunting the Night, both courtesy of the artist and Sophia Contemporary

Until 23 April, 11 Grosvenor Street W1K, sophiacontemporary.com

Barking mad Photography © Petter Hellman

new music series In the Round; and another instalment of Circusfest, which returns this month. Enjoy pulse-racing spectacles from the Race Horse Company and acrobatics from Barely Methodical Troupe as well as aerial shows. 4-24 April, from £5, Chalk Farm Road NW1, roundhouse.org.uk

It’ll be best paws forward this month as the annual Marylebone Dog Day returns. Join Dima and his four-legged companion George for a dance display, before entering the various heats running throughout the day. They’ll be prizes up for grabs in categories like waggy tail, oldies but goodies and best trick, as well as high-fashion and food stalls at the Cabbage and Frocks market (think second hand Gucci bags and macaroons from Wharf Road Bakery), for those without a hound in tow. 16 April, 11am-5pm, St Marylebone Parish Church Grounds, W1U

“An artist is somebody who produces things that people don’t need to have” – Andy Warhol A trip down memory lane Longtime Belsize Park resident and awardwinning documentary photographer David S Percy has turned his lens on the surrounding streets for an exhibition held at Burgh House. The evolution of Belsize Park from the original Belsize House with its extensive estate is captured across a range of photographs of the area, as well as restored engravings and paintings. Until 29 May, New End Square, NW3 burghhouse.org.uk lu x u r y l o n d o n .c o.u k

Belsize Park Gardens c.1900 from The Belsize Story

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Late

Fashionably At the age most people retire, Nicole Farhi turned her back on fashion to start sculpting. She tells Hannah Lemon what it’s like to break the mould 

“I

don’t buy clothes. I have enough old clothes. I’ve just sent three sweaters to be mended because they are full of holes.” It’s not quite the opening you expect from a woman who made her name in fashion – founder of her eponymous brand in 1982, Nicole Farhi was awarded a CBE for her services to fashion in 2007 and three years later the Légion d’Honneur by her native France. But her life couldn’t be further removed from stressful catwalk calls and the intense scrutiny that comes with running a fashion label. Found among the winding cobbled streets of Hampstead, chez Farhi looks as if it has sprouted from the English countryside. The large Georgian building sits in a garden plot that wraps itself around the house. It’s a very tranquil setting and feels about as far removed from the city hubbub as you can get in zone two.

A maid opens the front door and quietly ushers me into a sitting room. I’m overwhelmed by the colourful, eclectic set-up. Sculptures hang, lean and rest on every inch of space; some are Farhi’s own and others, including a giant ear protruding from a wall, I don’t recognise. The bookshelf groans under its own weight and I notice volumes detailing Henry Moore’s work piled on a bottom shelf. Turkish kilim carpets are soft under foot as I make myself at home among the cushions scattered on the sofa. Farhi appears a few seconds later, after wrapping up a phone call. Her recognisable fiery frizz of hair glows like a cumbersome halo. I am surprised (and relieved) by her refreshingly unfussy appearance: a grey polo-neck jumper, simple black trousers, and a hint of lipstick and mascara. This relaxed, elegant French style is what made waves with shoppers

From L-R: Judi Dench; Tom Stoppard; Nicole Farhi sculpting Eduardo Paolozzi


INTERVIEW

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30 years ago. Demure beige and blush tones, billowing, sophisticated silhouettes – her effortless designs could be relied upon to achieve that casual-chic look at a moment’s notice. Born to Turkish parents in France, Farhi’s family was far from creative, making a living from selling rugs and lamps, but that didn’t deter her from enrolling as an art student in Paris. “I was doing painting and fashion,” she tells me, her accent still thick with pleasantly rolling Rs and guttural vowels. “Fashion took over and I was lucky – I could immediately sell my work as a fashion designer, while no one was interested in my drawings or paintings.” Work quickly snowballed. But it was easy then, she says, far easier than for today’s generation of designers, and before she knew it she was designing for French Connection. However, it’s her sculpture that I’m here to talk about today. When she left her sartorial roots behind her in 2012, Farhi had already been practising pottery. “I loved it from the first time I touched the clay and I thought: this is it. I had found what I wanted to do in life.” A friend at a dinner party introduced her to classes, which Farhi attended two or three times a week. Then, when she was casting her first bronze work, she met the renowned sculptor Eduardo Paolozzi. “He was interested in what I was doing and he invited me to visit his studio. Then he came to mine and we became friends. For years and

years I saw him practically every week.” Farhi attributes her successful new start to this less than formal education. “He taught me to be aware of the world – to open my eyes. You can look at a tree or a flower and find shapes in them.” Farhi’s first exhibition was in 2013, with Bowman Sculpture on Duke Street. “It was like my first fashion show,” she recalls. “I had tears in my eyes because it was the first time I had such a big show in such a beautiful gallery. I started crying.” The exhibition received critical acclaim, not only because of her natural talent, but also because of her subjects: Judi Dench, Bill Nighy, Christopher Walken, Stephen Frears, the late Lucian Freud, Tom Stoppard – many of them friends. As we walk through her studio I spy Anna Wintour perched on a shelf, glaring at the room. “She’s always looking at what I am doing,” smiles Farhi. A sure-fire way to speed up productivity, I imagine. Also clinging to the walls is Farhi’s next collection and a work in progress. “I decided to sculpt creative hands,” she explains. “Hands of dancers, painters, sculptors, violinists, musicians, flutists and ceramicists. Some of them I knew, most I did not. But I got to know them through different sittings and they became friends. I go to their concerts and ballet performances, which has opened up another world.” Her immersion into this creative fold seems inevitable, particularly following her marriage to playwright David Hare back in 1992.

From L-R: Stephen Frears; Anna Wintour; Nicole Farhi’s studio; Nicole Farhi sculpting Bill Nighy


INTERVIEW

– not only for what they say but how they sound. I have a friend who is an opera singer and I want to sculpt what I feel when I hear her voice.” I try not to ask her too much about her previous life, but it’s not long before I cave. Doesn’t she find it strange that her name is still associated with her former fashion brand? “No,” she smiles knowingly, “but I think everyone else does. I am asked that question non-stop. It’s not me. I don’t look in the window. I don’t want to see what they are doing. I am not in touch with the company at all.” Does she have any regrets? “Sometimes I think I should have started sculpting professionally a bit earlier. I regret my last two years in fashion. When my company was sold, I was not happy with the people who bought it. I should have left before I saw this change. That was sad. But I don’t regret the work I put in and the people who helped me.” The door to the past has been left slightly ajar, however; she keeps in touch with her pattern cutter and assistants. “We had 20 years of our life working together. You can’t turn the page. I have reunions with my old team and it’s great. I love them.” She also keeps in touch with her ex-husband Stephen Marks, with whom she started the label. “I am seeing him tonight. We are very close to our daughter. She is in town at the moment and so we are having dinner. It’s a good example to families that have split up. You can make it work and it’s great.” Farhi emanates serenity, calm and strength throughout our conversation. Her steady gaze, passion and enthusiasm for her newfound profession is inspiring. She works every day of the week, only cutting down to mornings on Saturday and Sunday. I tentatively ask if she thinks she will get bored of sculpting eventually, which provokes a laugh. “If I reach that point in 40 years – as I did with fashion – I’ll be dead, so I don’t care. It’s probably why I am working so much and so hard because I am not young and I don’t have that many years to do it,” she adds. Farhi has an unshakeable confidence about her future – something very few people are able to find once in a lifetime, let alone twice.

“It was the first time I had such a big show in a gallery. I started crying”

Across the garden in her second studio she shows me a giant builder’s thumb that she’s midway through moulding and photos of clay moulds of her mother’s hands and Paolozzi’s fist. Each is made from a different material, be it marble, glass, ceramic or metal, depending on Farhi’s encounter with the subject. “It has to suit the person,” she says. “They all talk to you. Eduardo Paolozzi’s hand is in bronze, because it is strong and powerful – I wanted a metal for him.” This intense, insightful and romantic perception has led Farhi into more abstract forms. “I want to do voices one day. Voices are so important

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Nicole Farhi is part of Meaning, a group exhibition at Candida Stevens Fine Art, Chichester, from 21 May; her solo exhibition HANDS will be at Bowman Sculpture, Duke Street, SW1Y in September

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Luri Gabbeh rug, c.1890, south west Persia, 6'3" x 8'4", James Cohen Carpets, £6,600 This rug was probably originally woven for tribal use as a sleeping rug

Got it Covered Ahead of this month’s return of the London Antique Rug and Textile Art Fair, Jack Watkins meets founder Aaron Nejad to discuss why the humble carpet is back in fashion 

I

t’s been said that when you buy an antique rug or carpet you are not simply embellishing your home, you are purchasing into a great tradition that stretches back into the mists of time. But in these minimalist days, when the fitted carpet has fallen out of favour in many homes, ornate antique coverings might seem like a decorative irrelevance. Aaron Nejad, a specialist in fine textiles and a trader for more than 20 years, admits he has been hopefully forecasting the return of the rug for a decade. At last, he says, a real change could be on the way, with roll-up rugs and carpets becoming more popular. “Most people still have a very minimalist approach, but some are becoming more daring. They are prepared to put more emphasis on texture and colour in schemes for their interiors. Just putting a soft rug on the floor is one of the gentlest ways of introducing colour, in the same way people use cushions. It can transform a room and inject a sense of life and personality. It certainly doesn’t mean having to go back to wall-towall carpeting.” No one quite knows when the first carpets or woven floor coverings were made. The oldest surviving fragment of woollen, piled weaving, the Pazyrk Rug, which was discovered in the Siberian mountains in 1949, has been dated to 500 BC. But such is the advanced skill evident in its weaving patterns, it’s clear the craft had been in existence long before then. Most likely, the skill was developed by Asian nomads, insulating their tents against the nighttime chill of the deserts. Tribes developed their own distinct patterns, and the techniques spread via their movements, through trading and conquests. Designs then became more sophisticated as some groups settled in the cities and, in time, so-called Turkish

The oldest surviving rug, the Pazyrk Rug, discovered in the Siberian Mountains in 1949, has been dated to 500 BC

rugs travelled West via trade routes through Constantinople. The paintings of European masters like Giotto, Hans Holbein the Younger, Carlo Crivelli and Lorenzo Lotto show how, by the Renaissance period, woven carpets from the East had become luxury items in the West, too valuable to be simply laid on the floor. In fact, Holbein and Crivelli depicted rugs so frequently in their work that the items were referred to by the artists’ names. Holbein’s celebrated work The Ambassadors, which hangs in the National


SPOTLIGHT

Heriz Carpet c.1900, north west Persia 10'10" x 16'1", James Cohen Carpets, £12,000

Gallery, shows two figures standing beside a table covered in an oriental carpet. Nejad says it is known by experts as a “Small Pattern Holbein, belonging to one of the earliest known groups of Anatolian rugs”. To this day, the mere mention of a Persian carpet is suggestive of wealth and style. Despite this, many auction houses have now closed their specialist rug departments. And so prompted by a concern about the lack of opportunities for collectors or buyers interested in accessing period rugs, carpets, tapestries and textiles, Nejad launched the London Antique Rug and Textile Art Fair (LARTA) in 2011. “I did it to create a forum for promoting the appreciation of antique rugs and textiles to the wider general public,” he explains. “At the time I felt that interest was waning, and the antique rug and textile trade was not doing enough to counteract it.” It also reflects his lifelong passion. “I grew up surrounded by antique carpets. When I was a student at university, my father encouraged me to buy Persian tribal rugs in auctions and markets, wash them and sell them to him. That’s Serapi carpet, c.1880, north west Persia, 9'3" x 11'4", James Cohen Carpets, £22,000 Americans labelled these 'Serapi' after the Mexican blankets that had similar colours and spiky, serrated medallions

when I started to appreciate antique rugs for their beauty and value.” Described as a boutique event with a “souk-like” atmosphere, right in the heart of Marylebone, LARTA is the only fair in the UK where collectors or aficionados and the simply curious – Nejad stresses that everyone is welcome to visit – can come and see a wide selection of period rugs, textiles and tribal weavings originating from Persia, India, China, Central Asia, Anatolia and the Caucasus, as well as from within Europe and Africa. Prices for items range from £500 to more than £25,000. Other tribal artefacts such as woven baskets and bead work are also on view from around a dozen exhibitors, all of whom are experts in their fields. Nejad, who is also a contributing editor to Hall Magazine, the international quarterly devoted to the antique carpet and textile art market, maintains that right now prices are good for non-specialist buyers seeking a decorative antique rug. “You can find a beautifully hand-loomed vintage piece, carefully crafted using time-honoured traditions, for the same price as a mass-produced new one at a department store.” He admits to keeping an anxious eye on potential new developments in the international market. “Antique rugs have been part of the American embargo on trade with Iran for several years. The ban was so strictly enforced that even Christie’s wouldn’t sell an antique carpet from the region to an American buyer,” he explains. But the sanctions were recently lifted by the US government, which could stimulate prices significantly if American buyers return. In that respect then, there may never be a better moment to pay Nejad and his colleagues a visit. The London Antique Rug & Textile Fair (LARTA) 14-17 April, The Showroom, 63 Penfold Street, NW8 free admission, larta.net

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Here comes the sun It’s thanks to brands like Shanghai Tang that Hong Kong is now firmly on the fashion map. The label, which effortlessly fuses Eastern sensibilities with Western tastes, has unveiled its latest campaign. Shot against the backdrop of sun-kissed Seville, the collection reimagines Miao fabrics with graphic shapes and layers of sumptuous embroidery. The sixties have also been revived with a series of giant floral pop art prints and bright accessories. shanghaitang.com

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Fashion news By Ellen Millard

Photography by Tom Hunter/Giovanni Bianco & GB65

Branch out Amid the block colour tunics and hexagonal cut-outs featured in Marni’s S/S16 collection are leaf motifs, botanical prints and dark green hues, which might explain the theme behind its latest campaign. Shot by photographer Tom Hunter, the campaign sees Finnish model Suvi Koponen literally swinging from the trees while modelling the label’s latest line of primary-coloured dresses, wide-legged trousers and co-ords. marni.com

Head over heels Easily suede Chloe’s S/S16 collection came as somewhat of a surprise when it debuted in Paris last September, when the typically bohemian brand presented a line of tracksuits, sweatshirts and sporty vests alongside its usual offering of floaty dresses. Its new accessories collection, on the other hand, is decidedly more on-brand, with fringing, suede and bright shades. The label’s signature Faye and Drew bags (pictured) have been redesigned in a patchwork print, a cheerful striped design and a classic suede and python combination, while wedge sandals are treated to a rainbow palette and the Hudson saddle bag has more fringing than a cowboy’s jacket. We approve. From a selection, chloe.com

Handbag designer Mansur Gavriel shot to fame with its highly-coveted black leather bucket bag, seen on the shoulders of Miranda Kerr and Emma Watson. Now, the New York City-based label has launched its first ever footwear collection, comprising four styles of slip-on mules in suede and vegetable-tanned leather. Choose from black, plum, brick red, camel, royal blue and light pink. From £315, net-a-porter.com


fashion

Blurred lines Horizontal, vertical, diagonal and zigzag; name a stripe, Missoni’s new summer 2016 collection has it. The laidback line of lightweight knits is typical of the fashion house, which made its name with its signature chevron motif in rainbow hues. The latest range is no different, featuring wide-legged trousers, maxi dresses, oversized tops and cardigans in monochrome and multicoloured designs. missoni.com

Hot fuzz EDITOR'S PICK

When we first set eyes on Charlotte Simone’s new line of jackets we couldn’t help but be reminded of Big Bird, albeit a pastel-toned and altogether more stylish version. The collection certainly sits at the more daring end of the fashion spectrum, but the designer has never been one to toe the line – not if her popsicle scarves are anything to go by, anyway. Five jackets are available in candyfloss shades of baby pink (pictured) and light blue, but we’ve got our eyes on the dusty grey version with striped sleeves. Sesame Street, eat your heart out. From £475, charlottesimone.com

A touch of silk If there were ever an excuse to get an early night, it’s Olivia von Halle’s new range, the Talisman Collection. Named after the location of the campaign shoot, London’s Talisman Gallery, the collection makes a nod to the golden age of Hollywood, and is inspired by Elizabeth Taylor and Lauren Bacall. Take your pick from ivory two-piece sets, jewel coloured nightshirts with matching shorts in leopard print and floral designs or silk nightdresses for a duvet day with a difference. From a selection oliviavonhalle.com

Greece is the word Award-winning Greek artist Konstantin Kakanias has been churning out illustrations for the likes of Vogue and The New Yorker for some time, but it was his drawing of Orlebar Brown’s Bulldog swimming trunks in The New York Times that caught the swimwear label’s eye. Now, the two have joined forces to create a collaborative collection for S/S16. Update your summer wardrobe with bikinis, sunhats and beach cover-ups in Kakanias’ botanical and butterfly prints. From a selection, orlebarbrown.com

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Clockwise from top left: Diorama bag in white calfskin, £2,700, Dior, dior.com; New Odyssey leather stretch boots, £495, Casadei, casadei.com; Briona Prism satin pumps, £460, Nicholas Kirkwood, net-a-porter.com; Paillattes Origami earrings, £200, Prada, prada.com; Slingback pumps, £645, Prada, as before


Two Tone ďƒľ Photography Ian Walsh

stylist Vanissa Antonious


California Dreaming The high street goes haute as Rodarte collaborates with & Other Stories on a capsule collection, hitting the rails this month ďƒľ


fashion

A

s D-Day for H&M’s collaboration with Parisian label Balmain dawned last autumn, hysteria set in. Queues of shoppers snaked around the block outside flagship stores, some weighed down by cumbersome tents from the night before. The website crashed and every single item from the coveted collection, right down to the last beaded jacket, sold out within hours. Following in Balmain creative director Olivier Rousteing’s footsteps, Rodarte is the latest designer to hook up with the high street. The couture-inspired label founded by LA-based sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy has collaborated with & Other Stories on a ready-towear range, shoes and jewellery for S/S16. Crushed velvet, suede, mohair and leather abound in an autumnal colour palette of taupe, terracotta and burnt reds (the Mulleavys don’t do seasonal design) to create a seventies aesthetic. Lurex tops, velvet

trousers, patchwork boots and the show-stopper, a wrap dress dripping with sequins, make up a range of striking transitional pieces. “We wanted to create a collection that represents the textures of a California lifestyle. The clothes should easily transition from day to night,” explain the designers. “It was important to create go-to staples for one’s wardrobe: a great jacket, dress, skirt, blouse, sweater and shoes that are completely versatile.” A little bit disco meets Palm Springs, it isn’t hard to picture Rodarte’s couture fans – the likes of Chloë Sevigny and Natalie Portman – donning the ethereal designs. But whether that means we’ll see a mass sleepover of fashionistas bedding down for the night outside the shop on Regent Street remains to be seen. Available now at & Other Stories 256-258 Regent Street, W1B, stories.com Images courtesy of Rodarte and & Other Stories photography © Harley Weir

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Make waves with bold prints, neon brights and clashing patterns this spring ďƒľ Photography Phillip Waterman

stylist Camilla Turner


Silk printed dress, £1,340; Cotton skirt, £850; Shoes, £500, all Marni, marni.com; Collar necklace, £80, Moxham at Kabiri, kabiri.co.uk


Above Sheer top, POA, Mary Katrantzou, marykatrantzou.com; Corset top (worn underneath), £420, Natasha Zinko, 46 Maddox Street, W1S; Red culottes, £295, Milly, milly.com; Leather belt, £380, Marni, as before; Suede shoes, £625, Paul Andrew at shoescribe.com; Bracelet, £85, by Vojd at Kabiri, as before Right Cotton Sateen embroidered trench coat, £2,995, Burberry, burberry.com




Above Top, £1,100, David Koma, davidkoma.com; Printed skirt, £270, Caterina Gatta at Matches Fashion, matchesfashion.com; Gold earrings, £120, Noritamy at Kabiri, as before Left Chiffon dress, £1,000, Marco De Vincenzoa at Matches Fashion, as before; Jacket, £1,545, Christopher Kane, 6 Mount Street, W1K; Shoes, POA, Paul Andrew, paulandrew.com; Gold collar necklace, £48, Cooee at Kabiri, as before


Above Dress, POA, Christopher Kane, as before; Gold cuff, £195, Noritamy at Kabiri, as before Right Silk top, £610; Skirt, £800, both Roksanda Ilincic, selfridges.com; Shoes, £495, Paul Andrew at Matches Fashion, as before


HAIR & MAKE-UP Rachel Jones @ Terri Manduca using MAC and Kevin Murphy PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT Kiti Swannell STYLIST’S ASSISTANT Sadie Kohler MODEL Ineta @ IMG


“I

La Frida Loca

used to think I was the strangest person in the world, but then I thought there are so many people in the world, there must be someone just like me who feels bizarre and flawed in the same ways I do.” Like many before and after her, the artist Frida Kahlo wasn’t truly appreciated until she died, and even then it was several decades later that she received the recognition she deserved. She was born in 1907 but told everyone it was 1910, not for reasons of vanity, but because she loved her country so much that she wanted people to believe her birth coincided with the start of the Mexican revolution. Kahlo was light years ahead of her time, dismissing her family’s wish for her to marry and have children, and instead enrolling at the Escuela Nacional Preparatoria to study medicine, where she became one of the university’s first female students. It was during this time that she discovered politics, and remained an active socialist campaigner until her death; just ten days before she died, she attended a public protest against American intervention in Guatemala. But her life was also marred by tragedy. At the age of 18 she was involved in a horrific car accident that resulted in a broken spine, collarbone, leg, rib and foot and left her in a full-body cast for three months and bed ridden for two years. It was at this time that she began to paint. For Kahlo, no subject was off limits. During her lifetime, she would shock the world with artwork representing illness, sexuality, gender equality and heartbreak. She was unable to have children due to her poor health, and her paintings often included references to abortion, infertility and miscarriages. Kahlo married, but she and her husband (the painter Diego Rivera) were far from faithful. She was open about her sexuality, had affairs with both men and women and spent some of her youth dressing as a man in tweed suits. Her clothes were an extension of her ideas, and it’s this that she’s remembered for most. She fought hard against changing standards of beauty, and dressed in a way that was openly (and often abrasively) for herself and nobody else. It’s ironic that her appearance is what made her an icon

With the publication of Frida Kahlo: Fashion as the Art of Being this month, Ellen Millard discovers more about the woman who influenced contemporary fashion, challenged gender stereotypes and shaped our eyebrows 

in the end, but her clothes were emblematic of her beliefs, and this lives on in contemporary fashion. As a new book by Susana Martínez Vidal and Assouline celebrates the artist’s life and her influence on the modern world, we explore the moments that came to define her and the stories behind them.

Above, from left: © Banco de México Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo, Museums Trust Mexico, D.F./Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York, courtesy Sotheby’s New York; photo © Bernard Silberstein; © Banco de Mexico Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo, Museums Trust Mexico, D.F./Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York, image © Christie’s Images/ Corbis, Memory or the Heart, 1937; © Corinne Dalle-Ore


feature

The jewellery

The hair

Fashionable jewellery tended to be small and delicate in Mexico at the time, but Frida opted for bolder items, selecting those that incorporated natural stones such as coral, jade and turquoise. She would wear local handmade pieces and heavy, preColumbian jewellery that her husband bought for her. When her wardrobe was uncovered after her death, the strangest piece of jewellery said to be found was a handshaped earring given to her by Picasso, which is seen in her Self Portrait painting from 1940.

Kahlo wore her hair centre-parted, braided and tied into a tight bun, a style that was deemed unfashionable at the time. She often wore a crown of flowers or a headpiece from her native country in celebration of her heritage. Flowers were a big part of Kahlo’s life, and featured in many of her paintings. After her death, her house was turned into a museum, and a reproduction of her garden was shown at the New York Botanical Gardens.

The eyebrows Long before Cara Delevingne made them her trademark, Kahlo was deliberately darkenening her brows in a stand against European standards of beauty. While the rest of Mexico's female population were plucking their brows to match the Western idea of beauty, Kahlo grew hers and used special tools to fill them out and make them appear as bushy as possible.

The corset

The shoes As a child, Kahlo suffered from polio, which stunted her growth and caused her legs to be imbalanced. She used to add a lift to the soles of her shoes, an idea that was later mimicked by Salvatore Ferragamo. She mainly wore huarache sandals, cowboy boots and high heels, until her right foot and right leg were amputated due to gangrene. She designed her own prosthetic: a red lace-up boot with embroidered flowers and a bell attached.

At a time when women were ditching corsets, Kahlo embraced them, favouring the support they gave her weak spine. She didn’t see them as a restriction, but as a symbol of her strength and her ability to overcome her weaknesses, so she decorated hers with drawings. There’s been speculation that Madonna’s famous Jean Paul Gaultier corset is modelled on that of Kahlo – both the singer and the designer are huge fans.

The traditional dress Kahlo and Rivera were seen as symbols of new Mexico thanks to their art and revolutionary beliefs and Kahlo altered her appearance to fit her role. The Tehuana women were national symbols, known for their intelligence, beauty and bravery, so Kahlo adopted their traditional costume, and would wear the long, loose dresses – that conveniently covered her disability – with pride.

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£130, available from Maison Assouline, 196A Piccadilly W1J, and Assouline London at Claridges, 49 Brook Street W1K, assouline.com

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Beauty news By Ellen Millard

Kiss and tell When the fashion world unveiled its S/S16 collections last September, it was unclear what this season’s lipstick trend would be. The FROW was left dumbfounded when models appeared wearing everything from nude shades and rouge hues to daring burgundy tints. The conclusion? Anything goes. Cue Burberry’s Full Kisses range, a collection of lip pens with long-lasting colour in 14 shades. Take your pick from nude blush and coral red to lilac and oxblood. £24 each, 121 Regent Street, W1B, burberry.com © Burberry/Testino

Sleeping beauty All systems are glow We’re sensing a theme in the beauty world this season: a glowing complexion is the order of the day at Chanel, Dior and now Bobbi Brown. The latter’s latest collection comprises long-wear eye gels in metallic shades of goldstone and silver heather, bronze highlighting powders and a moisturising lip tint to help you achieve that much-sought-after glow.

EDITOR'S PICK

From £21, bobbibrown.co.uk

A strong brew Here in Britain we like to think we know a thing or two about tea – it’s PG Tips with a splash of milk and one sugar, right? Elsewhere in the world having a cuppa is a more aromatic affair, which is why Jo Malone London has called on several loose leaf brews as inspiration for its latest collection, Rare Teas. Five herbal infusions have been reimagined in fragrance form for the perfumer’s latest line. Take your pick from silver needle, darjeeling, jade leaf, midnight black and golden needle. £240, 101 Regent Street, W1B, jomalone.co.uk

There aren’t many beauty products that can boast a following like YSL Beauté’s Touche Éclat, which has been disguising the bags under our eyes for 23 years. Its foundation form, Touche Éclat La Teint, meanwhile has been brightening our complexion since 2012, and now the label is relaunching the latter with a new formula. Claiming to give the beauty equivalent of eight hours sleep in just one drop, the liquid foundation comes in 22 shades and has gold pigments to produce a radiant effect and vitamin E to help combat telltale signs of fatigue. £32.50, yslbeauty.co.uk


bag

beauty

In the Our pick of the latest must-have handbag essentials

1. Next in MAC’s seemingly never-ending line of collaborators is Charlotte Olympia, who has drawn on pin-up girls and vintage Hollywood glamour for inspiration. Lipsticks, liners and tints come in classic shades of burgundy and scarlet all decorated with Olympia’s unique spider web motif. From a selection maccosmetics.co.uk

2. Who needs 40 winks when Shiseido’s new Beauty Sleeping Mask will do the trick? Apply the gel to your skin before bed and wake up with a dewy complexion that mimics the effects of a good night’s sleep. £20 shiseido.co.uk 3. Tom Ford has designed a new beauty line in keeping with the label’s latest womenswear collection. The Tom Ford Runway Colour S/S16 range features a limited edition suede nude lipstick, a metallic cream eye shadow in eight shades and highlighting palette Shade and Illuminate. From a selection, tomford.com 4. There isn’t a best smelling lipstick award, but if there were Guerlain would be a frontrunner with its latest collection. The 20 item-strong range is scented with the label’s signature fragrance, La Petite Robe Noire, and offers buildable colour and high shine. What more could you want? £21.50 each, guerlain.com

5. Butter London has added ten new shades to its Patent Shine 10x collection, a range of lacquers that boast a chip-resistant formula that lasts up to ten days. New to the range are spring shades of rose (Dearie Me!), light blue (Candy Floss) and khaki (Dapper). £15 each, butterlondon.co.uk 6. When Laura Mercier set about creating her new foundation, she aimed to design a product that mimics the flattering glow that candlelight casts on the skin. The result? Her Candleglow Soft Luminous Foundation, a lightweight formula that creates an illuminous appearance that lasts all day. £35, lauramercier.com 7. It’s been ten years since Jane Birkin collaborated with Miller Harris, producing her own fragrance L’Air de Rien. To mark the occasion, the perfumery is relaunching the scent with an accompanying limited edition tote decorated with an illustration by Birkin herself. Pick up the fragrance for sweet notes of amber, vanilla, neroli and oak moss. £65 for 50ml millerharris.com 8. Combat stress-induced lines with Clarins’ new Multi-Active Day and Night cream duo. Containing extracts of myrothamnus, a South African plant that helps hydrate the skin, and California poppy to help compensate for a lack of sleep, the cream will make skin appear radiant and revitalised. £42, clarins.com lu x u r y l o n d o n .c o.u k

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Marcs

On your

As Marc Jacobs Beauty launches in the UK, Ellen Millard speaks to the label’s lead make-up artist Gilbert Soliz about S/S16 beauty trends, make-up faux pas and his creative influences 

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long with SEPHORA and Fresh, Marc Jacobs Beauty was, until recently, one of the few things that put the States ahead of us Brits in the beauty stakes. But there’s good news for make-up boffins on this side of the pond: the designer’s make-up line – which launched in 2013 – has hopped over to Harrods, where it’s now available exclusively in the UK for the very first time. At the head of the move is the label’s make-up artist Gilbert Soliz. The beauty mogul learnt his craft behind make-up counters in his hometown, California’s Central Valley, where he worked at Macy’s for Benefit, MAC and Chanel before moving to LA. It was here that he joined aforementioned American beauty brand Sephora as the pro lead artist. Now, as the Marc Jacobs Beauty global make-up artist, Soliz lends us his expertise on S/S16 trends and this season’s must-have products.

Le Marc Lip Crème in Charlotte, £24

The most popular make-up trend for S/S16 is fresh pastels and eye-popping brights for lips and cheeks, but my favourite trend for the new season is black everything. We’re all about black at Marc Jacobs Beauty; the blacker the better. Just think of that 1960s blacker than black, heavy doe-eyed look. This is all about layering shades to create a dark and sultry, smoky effect that’s imperfectly perfect.

Enamored Hi-Shine Nail Lacquer, £15

To get the look, apply Marc Jacobs Highliner Gel Crayon in Blacquer along the upper and lower lash line and smudge. Then rim your inner water line using Marc Jacobs’ Fineliner in Blacquer, and apply Magic Marc’er along the upper lash line for even more drama before finishing with lashings of Velvet Noir Major Volume Mascara.

Radiant glowing skin will never go out of fashion. I’ve always been a fan of the ‘no make-up’ trend. Skin will always be in. A gorgeous, radiant complexion starts with the base, so begin by using Marc Jacobs’ Genius Gel Foundation. It’s a lighter base that can be built from natural to full coverage, giving your skin ultimate radiance.

Velvet Noir Major Volume Mascara, £20


INTERVIEW Highliner in Overt £19

#Instamarc Light Filtering Contour Powder, £33 The Sky-Liner Seven Piece Petites Highliner Gel Eye Crayon Collection, £32

Skin should be glossy with highlights and a dewy finish with a sweeping of blush. Try enhancing your cheeks with Marc Jacobs’ Shameless Bold Blush. Then, using #Instamarc Light Contouring Filter Powder, apply a lighter shade onto those key areas that will naturally hit the light to illuminate and brighten and create the most gorgeous skin this season.

When I was 17 I realised I wanted to pursue make-up after seeing all the boys dressed in black that worked behind make-up counters in department stores. Drawing and painting have always come naturally to me and both my parents were hairdressers so I’ve always had great mentors. My creative influences are other make-up artists, musicians, pop artists, painters and architects.

If there’s one product you should buy this season it’s mascara. I can’t say it enough: mascara, mascara, mascara. I recommend our Velvet Noir Major Volume Mascara. My hero products are Marc Jacobs Beauty Highliner Gel Eye Crayon and Le Marc Lip Crème, but the product that I think is most underrated is foundation. People don’t realise the innovation and technology that it takes to create some of these new formulas.

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The best beauty advice I’ve ever received is that you should always wash your make-up off before bed. The biggest make-up mistake you can make is a contouring overload – save it for a special occasion.

Travelling the globe and launching Marc Jacobs Beauty in more than 20 countries has been my career highlight so far. Britain is at the forefront of beauty. The approach to beauty over here is well thought out as it is seen to be as important as fashion.

I love that Marc Jacobs Beauty is tied to the fashion house and vice versa. When

Re(marc)able Full Cover Foundation, £37

creating looks we try to make them wearable for real woman. They are usually inspired by the runway, but often the product itself drives the creative process. Marc Jacobs Beauty is available exclusively at Harrods, harrods.com

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Cabinet crew Fans of Jessie Burton’s The Miniaturist will be familiar with 17th century cabinet houses. Those who aren’t in the know should look to Liberty’s Chesham Cabinet Collection for a crash course on miniature interiors. Inspired by the cabinet display cases that were popular among the wealthy during the 1800s, the department store’s signature floral prints have been reimagined in bright yellow, blue and red blooms and abstract designs. Created in-house using Liberty’s extensive archive, the fabric collection is available as a range of cushions and throws, or to buy by the metre. Regent Street, W1B, liberty.co.uk

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Interiors news By Amelia Mayes

Window shopping The windows at Harrods are currently undergoing a spring clean ready to receive The London Edit – the homeware department’s roundup of this season’s hottest interiors trends, to be unveiled this month. As well as a number of exclusive launches, including the debut furniture collection by Matthew Williamson in collaboration with Duresta (see our interview on page 12), the edit will comprise four styles: the Shoreditch Loft, the Chelsea Townhouse, the Notting Hill Villa and the Hampstead House (pictured). From a selection, harrods.com

Throw some shapes Sculptural shapes resonate through the capsule furniture collection by design label Sé. Since 2007 Pavlo Schtakleff has invited some of the world’s finest furniture designers to produce ranges for his brand, amassing a collection of highly crafted pieces like a gallery might collect art. Couture style collaborations with European designers Damien LangloisMeurinne, Jaime Hayón and Nika Zupanc form a curated selection of key items, including art deco-inspired dining chairs and oversized sofas. POA, se-london.com

Blame it on the bougie

EDITOR'S PICK

Constellations, critters and curious portraits; when it comes to the design of its candles, fragrance house Fornasetti has never played it safe. The inspiration for its latest collection comes from the late Italian opera singer Lina Cavalieri, whose monochrome portrait is overlaid with bright florals and features on a range of statement candles and incense boxes. £145, fornasetti.com


interiors

Eric Kuster Interior Design, published by teNeues teneues.com; photo © Eric Kuster 2015 erickuster.com

By the book

Window dressing

International interior designer Eric Kuster is sharing his design nous in a new coffee table book, the simply named Interior Design. With a back catalogue of famous projects, from restaurants to five-star retreats and an array of bespoke interiors pieces created under his Metropolitan Luxury label, Kuster is well versed on working to briefs of all shapes and sizes. The book, illustrated with some of his most opulent projects, offers professional advice and ideas to budding interior designers looking to transform their home.

Interiors trends come and go, but along with a wood burner and elegantly distressed floorboards, shutters are here to stay. It’s a good thing that Clement Browne’s new range can be personalised to provide different levels of privacy (from café style and tier on tier to full height) and match any type of home décor. Create a standout feature using bold colours such as vibrant Lindos Blue or Coral Blush (pictured), or stick to white or London Smoke grey for a more classic effect. From £250, clementbrowne.co.uk

£45, teneues.com

Crystal clear The archives were the starting point for Lalique’s latest Anémone collection, which launches in time for spring. The delicately cut floral designs fashioned in polished crystal are based on an original 1912 model. The motifs are etched into vases, decanters and perfume bottles, available in a seasonal inspired colour palette of clover green and dusky pink. From £69 47 Conduit Street W1S, lalique.com

Photography by Richard Powers

The wild house Designer Christian Lacroix is no stranger to talking a walk on the wild side – and his latest homewares collection, which bears his tropical hallmarks, is among his most eclectic and colourful yet. The Art de Vivre range features a selection of fabrics, wallpapers and home accessories embossed with jewel-toned oriental blooms, aquatic scenes and butterflies to add a playful splash. From a selection christian-lacroix.com

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April Tools Accessorise your home with Katie Stevens’ pick of this season’s most covetable trends 

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Centre trend Sura Dining Table, £1,700, anthropologie.com 1 Nicki Jones Cushion, £100, amara.com 2 Turi Cushion, £48, anthropologie.com 3 Keira Chest, £450, oliverbonas.com 4 Bloomingville Rattan Chair, £289, amara.com 5 Parsons Wall Mirror, £259, westelm.co.uk 6 Lene Bjerre Darla Bowl, £31, houseology.com 7 Cake Stand, £78, oliverbonas.com 8 Magma Vase, £495, sofaandchair.co.uk 9 Side Table, £179, westelm.co.uk 10 Flemming Lassen Armchair, £2,599, twentytwentyone.com


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Centre trend Mulberry Home China Wallpaper, £169 per roll, gpandjbaker.com 1 Coucou Manou Loop Cabinet, £1,795, clippings.com 2 Space Copenhagen for &Tradition Sofa, £3,595, aram.co.uk 3 Alanya Pouf, £269, anthropologie.com 4 Nordal Bubble Glass Lamp, £76, amara.com 5 Galapagos Bartholomew Chair, £625, amara.com 6 Missoni Home Cushion, £114, amara.com 7 Lene Bjerre Camelia Jar, £29, houseology.com 8 Stevie Gueridon, £3,950, francissultana.com 9 Abaya Vase, £15, habitat.co.uk 10 Lene Bjerre Mardea Table Lamp, £350, houseology.com

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Son of Rambow Little adventurers will be well kitted out with Scotch & Soda’s S/S16 collection for both boys and girls. Taking fashion cues from explorers such as Charles Sayers, who travelled the world exhibiting his works of art, and David Livingstone, who bravely navigated Africa on foot, the range features bold colours, tribal prints and clashing designs influenced by their quests. Intrepid nomads will look the part with the new line, which includes dungarees, durable denim and bamboo prints inspired by tropical forests. From £14.95, scotch-soda.com

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Family news By Amelia Mayes

Toe the line Get your children ready for the impending warm weather with Pom d’Api’s latest collection. The French footwear brand has released a new range of children’s sandals and trainers just in time for spring. Sling-backs, gladiator sandals and lace-up styles are available in bright blue, green and yellow (or classic shades of brown, white and black) but our favourite has to be the gold and brown pair that comes with with a glittery strap. From £41, melijoe.com

Tween spirit One of Hampstead High Street’s newest arrivals, French kidswear brand Jacadi, is bringing its pre-teen range over to the UK for the first time. The Mademoiselle Jacadi collection is aimed at girls aged nine to 14, and includes seasonal blouses, dresses and skirts. Its latest line has a nautical theme, and includes navy Breton T-shirts, scallop-trim cardigans and Peter Pan collared shirts. 29 Hampstead High Street NW3, jacadi.com

Pump it This year Mr Men and Little Miss celebrates its 45th anniversary, and to mark the occasion the popular book series has teamed up with Pretty Ballerinas to create a three-piece capsule collection. The label’s Hannah pumps have been redesigned in soft white leather and decorated with handmade brooches featuring Little Miss Hug, Little Miss Sunshine and Little Miss Giggles (pictured). Each shoe features a colourful trim that matches the three characters. Choose from light pink, sunny yellow and bold red. £99, prettyballerinas.com


FAMILY

Summer of love French fashion house Chloé has journeyed across the Atlantic to sunny California to create its effortlessly elegant S/S16 wardobe for girls. Like the adult line, the latest collection employs a warm colour palette of gold, powder pink and ocean blue, and comprises a selection of casual separates, delicate chiffon blouses and floaty dresses featuring feminine details such as floral embroidery and braided denim. Stylish yet easy to wear pieces offer the perfect style solutions for the warm, hazy days ahead. From a selection, available at childrensalon.com Image courtesy of Chloé

Plastic fantastic EDITOR'S PICK

Along with the Dreamhouse, a shoe collection to rival Imelda Marcos and more than 40 pets, Barbie can lay claim to 180 careers, from astronaut and CEO to ballerina and presidential candidate. But for all her alter egos, the doll’s shape has seen little change in her 50 plus years – until now. Barbie’s traditional form has been shelved for three new body types: tall, curvy and petite. No doubt Ken will approve. £9.99, available for pre-order at amazon.co.uk

Bow down

Roll up Anything that makes travelling with small children easier gets a thumbs up from us, so we were pleased to hear about Atticus & Gilda’s new range of roll-up travel bags for kids. Available in a cloud print or a striped design in green or blue, the handy kits feature an organic lip balm, a bamboo toothbrush, a rabbit or cat-eared eye mask, a hairbrush and a pair of pyjamas – just the ticket for a stress-free night away.

New to Harrods for S/S16 is London-based brand Hucklebones, which can now be found at the luxury store’s recently reopened children’s department. The label’s latest whimsical line of girls’ wear pays particular attention to tailoring and pretty bow details abound. Shop for delicate organza dresses, aquatic prints and fun hairbands in an array of pastel colours. From £30, available at Harrods

From £45 atticusandgilda.co.uk

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A Sketchy Business As the permanent Quentin Blake Gallery opens at House of Illustration, Lauren Romano discovers more about the artist whose mischievous drawings and picture books continue to fire up the imaginations of the young and old alike 

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henever I think of Quentin Blake, the vacant, dopey face of the 24-foot-tall, gladiator sandal-clad Big Friendly Giant springs to mind. He’s invariably busy bottling dreams in his cave, eating warty snozzcumbers or trying to outwit The Bonecruncher, The Fleshlumpeater and their other

Above: From Angel Pavement by Quentin Blake (Jonathan Cape, 2004); Right: Quentin Blake’s Magical Tales by John Yeoman (Pavilion Books, 2010), both images courtesy of Quentin Blake and House of Illustration

child-guzzling cohorts. Olivia Ahmad, curator at Granary Square’s House of Illustration, has a fondness for The Witches. “Those sharp, acerbic images and the genuine fear they instil are embedded in my mind like I’m sure they are for a lot of people,” she says. “They are utterly compelling and terrifying at the same time.”


INTERVIEW

of his artistic output. Kicking things off, the gallery’s inaugural exhibition, Seven Kinds of Magic, curated by Blake himself, will showcase his original illustrations for some of his most famous works in books by Russell Hoban, John Yeoman and, of course, Roald Dahl. “When you consider the collection over a period of time you can see how his style has developed and changed. Of course you can tell it’s Quentin straight away, but you can see different techniques and different colours that he’s started to use,” Ahmad says. “The earliest illustration in the exhibition, a depiction of a violin-playing Pied Piper figure from My Friend Mr Leaky, was published in 1968 and when you look at this next to some of the more recent drawings the contrast is actually quite startling and you realise how versatile he is as an artist.” Blake’s studio set-up and drawing regime might remain largely set in stone, but his reinvention continues and the commissions follow suit. It was recently announced that he is illustrating Kitty and Boots, a forgotten Beatrix Potter manuscript discovered hiding in the V&A archive in 2013. The book, which will be published in September, marks a meeting of two of the UK’s best-loved picture book makers more than a century apart. This is just one of the many projects the inexhaustible octogenarian has up his sleeve – Ahmad tells me he will be involved with the curation of future exhibitions for the Quentin Blake Gallery too. “His work is almost like handwriting isn’t it? As in the handwriting of an old friend. You see it and you instantly know it’s him and you feel connected to it,” she muses. “Quentin’s illustrations have this really magic mix of warmth and comfort, but they’re also quite cheeky. His line is anarchic sometimes and has lots of life in it. And it’s this combination of immediacy and playful humour that means his characters are just so unforgettable.”

“Quentin’s illustrations have this really magic mix of warmth and comfort, but they’re also quite cheeky” Blake is something of a magician. At the age of 83 he still works from his home studio in a west London mansion block, committing undulating watercolour and scratchy ink outlines to paper every day. To say he’s a prolific artist is an understatement: Blake has amassed an archive of some 35,000 works. He donated it to the House of Illustration, the UK’s only public gallery devoted solely to the medium, which he founded in 2014. The new Quentin Blake Gallery, which opens this month, will be the public face of the archive. “Quentin had his first illustration published in Punch magazine when he was 16, while he was still at school. And now he’s in his early 80s. During that time he’s illustrated more than 200 books and countless other projects and he’s kept his original printed illustrations as well as his rough drawings, so the collection is growing all the time,” Ahmad explains. Original vignettes and cartoons that deal with more adult subject matter – from macabre illustrations for a translation of Voltaire’s Candide to sketches for The Spectator and a series of hospital murals – are in the pipeline to be unveiled later in the year to showcase the many sides

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Seven Kinds of Magic, 29 April – 24 August 2 Granary Square, N1C, houseofillustration.org.uk

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HEALTH

Health & fitness news By Ellen Millard

Sink or swim Happiness is the order of the day at Vilebrequin this season, which has channelled childhood innocence in its S/S16 collection. Playful bubble prints, Hawaiian flowers and turtle motifs adorn the label’s new line, which includes a range of swimsuits ideal for practising your butterfly stroke in, and beach coverups best suited to a Caribbean holiday. From a selection, vilebrequin.com

On track If we could hire a personal trainer to follow us around and motivate us to keep moving, we’d certainly be a whole lot fitter. Luckily for us, Fitbit has a more realistic solution up its sleeve. New to the brand’s range of fitness trackers is the Fitbit Alta, its most fashionable wristband yet with interchangeable straps and a sleek design, but the real attention to detail is found in its tracking device. The intelligent band nudges you when you’ve been stationary for too long, tracks your daily exercise and provides weekly fitness goals. £99.99, fitbit.com/uk

From the heart We have good news for the residents of St John’s Wood: Hampstead High Street’s favourite fitness studio, Heartcore, has opened a new boutique in its neighbouring district. Located in a former church, Heartcore’s eighth outlet will offer its challenging Pilates, TRX and barre classes, among others. What’s more, the fitness brand has joined forces with Blue Cow Yoga to offer power and restorative yoga classes, so you can perfect your vinyasa flow a little closer to home. 27a Queen’s Terrace NW8, heartcore.co.uk

Art attack

Germaine says relax It’s hardly a secret that stress is bad for your health, so we’ll be making a beeline for The Landmark London’s newly reopened Spa & Health Club to treat ourselves to a little TLC. New to the spa is skincare brand Germaine de Capuccini, which has designed a selection of face and body treatments especially for the spa using traditional therapies. While you’re there, take a dip in the Jacuzzi to soothe muscles, prevent stiffness and relieve fatigue. Just what the doctor ordered...

Converse’s Chuck Taylor All Star trainers were originally designed for the basketball court, but we’re more likely to throw them on for a last-minute dash to the shops. However you choose to wear yours, be sure to snap up a pair from the label’s latest collaborative collection with the Andy Warhol Foundation. Both low and high tops have been redesigned using Warhol’s bold Cow and Flowers silkscreen works of art, available in pink, monochrome and yellow. From a selection, converse.com

222 Marylebone Road, NW1, landmarklondon.co.uk lu x u r y l o n d o n .c o.u k

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Future

Face the

Think you’ve seen it all when it comes to health and beauty? Well, 2016 is the year your wellbeing regime will change forever. Expect mind-reading gadgets, DNA tests and an end to beauty guesswork, writes Gabrielle Lane ďƒľ


FEATURE

Pick a patch A social media buzz has started for Radara micro-chanelling patches. The flexible stickers are covered in microscopic plastic structures that aim to pierce the skin and enable a high purity hyaluronic acidbased serum to penetrate its deeper layers and encourage a firmer, more youthful-looking complexion. Traditional micro-needling techniques can be both painful and require recovery time, but the micro-channels caused by the patches heal quickly, enabling daily use for a four-week period. The technology is now being tested for medical uses including pain relief and glucose management.

A timer and a light are just two added extras for the Oral-B Pro 6000 SmartSeries Electric Toothbrush, the only Bluetooth-enabled toothbrush of its kind. As well as offering up to 100 per cent more plaque removal than a manual toothbrush thanks to its pulsating, oscillating head, the tool has five cleaning programmes including sensitive, whitening and gum care and connects to an app so it can be tailored to specific oral care needs. Smartseries 6000, £114.99 boots.com

The DNA test

The brush robot

Radara system, from £199+VAT radara.co.uk

Is this the end of over-the-counter moisturiser? Using a DNA swab, chief scientist of Imperial’s Institute of Biomedical Engineering Professor Christofer Toumazou and his team at health company Geneu can test for genetic markers that indicate accelerated collagen breakdown and natural antioxidant protection levels in the skin. The resulting profile, which takes 30 minutes to develop, is used to create customised antiageing serums that are applied twice a day. Double Benefit Initial Skincare Experience £260, geneu.com

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Heralded a “beauty game-changer” by Space.NK’s head beauty buyer Jessica Perfect, TEMPTU Air is the world’s first handheld airbush make-up tool. Dispensing foundation as a very fine mist, the device offers laserlike precision and even layers of coverage across three levels – light, medium and full – and unlike similar concepts previously seen on the market, it functions as a cordless system in the palm of the hand. TEMPTU Air can also be used with the brand’s bronzers, blushers and highlighters for a flawless finish.

The

airbrush

TEMPTU Air, £120 Space.NK, 73 St John’s Wood High Street, NW8

The

mindreader If you find your mind wandering when attempting to meditate, you need a Muse headband. Worn with the thinnest part of the band positioned against the forehead, it syncs with a smartphone app via Bluetooth and uses a 60-second thinking task to calibrate itself. With five sensors detecting brain activity, it then translates your state of mind into sounds of the wind, guiding the user towards calm. The Muse app produces graphs and tips for each session.

The Samsung Body Compass 2.0 may still be in development, but the brand is already receiving enquiries after it debuted the prototype of a very small module integrated with smart clothing at a recent tech conference. The clothes are part of the compass, which can give accurate information about a workout, as they move with the body. At this stage, reports suggest the Body Compass could monitor the execution of movement, weight loss and muscle gain as well as heart rate, body temperature and even thirst via a smartwatch. Coming soon, samsung.com

InteraXon Muse, £235 amazon.co.uk

The body compass


FEATURE

The SPF test La Roche-Posay’s My UV Patch hit the headlines after its debut at the Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegas in January. Transparent and adhesive, the flexible patch – which is half the thickness of an average strand of hair – contains photosensitive dyes and changes colour to indicate the level of UV exposure. La Roche-Posay hopes the technology will increase sun safety, following its research that only 12 per cent of British sunseekers wear sunscreen throughout the year. The waterproof patch is set to launch in late 2016.

The home device market is predicted to be worth $54.2bn globally by 2020, which is why Mapo (above), founded by two L’Oréal veterans, caught the attention of investors on crowdfunding platform Kickstarter. The bespoke silicon face mask is created from a 3D image of each user’s face and indicates hydration levels and treatment needs. Alternatively, look out for Gold Collagen’s pre-soaked Hydrogel Face Mask (below), a slick 40-minute mask that acts as a second skin enriched with hyaluronic acid and antioxidants. Mapo, approx. £170, wired-beauty.com Hydrogel Masks multipack, £19.99 hollandandbarrett.com

Coming soon, laroche-posay.co.uk

Magic gel

Turbo masks

A bland taupe sachet at first glance, My Gel, as part of the SLIM ME package from nutritionist Gabriela Peacock, makes you eat less. How? The formula contains glucomannan, a natural plant root fibre that is soluble. When ingested three times a day before meals, it absorbs liquid in the digestive system and swells slightly to suppress the appetite. It is taken alongside two capsules that contain chromium to balance blood sugar levels, B vitamins to boost energy and manganese to support the metabolism. It goes without saying that it should be used as part of a healthy lifestyle. GP Nutrition Slim Me, from £55 for a 14-day package, selfridges.com

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Exercise how to get started and

how should your body respond?


health promotion

Robin McNelis, physiotherapist at The Wellington Hospital, discusses starting a new exercise regime, what reactions you should notice and feel in your body and when it is important to get help Before starting any new physical activity plan, if you have any concerns about your health you should consult your doctor. One thing health professionals often notice is that many people are unfamiliar with what reactions they should feel from their body when they exercise. If you don’t know what is normal for your body, it can be difficult to know when to get help if something is wrong. You will probably notice some of the following when you start exercising, i.e. going for a brisk walk: • Increase in heart rate and blood pressure • Increase in breathing depth and rate (but still able to talk) • Feeling hotter and may start to sweat • Muscles should feel like they’re working and maybe have a light burning sensation • Feeling achy for the next couple of days if you’ve used muscles you haven’t used for a while All of these should return to normal when you rest. If they don’t improve or get worse, you should seek help and get these symptoms investigated. Remember that the reaction you feel will be exaggerated if you: • Haven’t warmed up correctly • Are walking/running/cycling faster, uphill or into the wind • Are dehydrated or you haven’t co-ordinated your eating and exercise correctly • Haven’t exercised for a while – with fitness if you don’t use it, you lose it quickly and routine tasks can feel a lot harder than before • If the temperature is colder or warmer than you are used to

Building fitness in a healthy way takes time, determination and yes, it can sometimes hurt! Research has shown that the key element for longterm health is not the hard work, it’s the behavioural change you will need to adopt to make exercise a normal part of your routine. I always encourage people to focus on this when they are starting an exercise regime rather than tortuous, short term, quick fix plans which do not promote the long-term changes that are required for ongoing health promotion. Think about the number days you exercise in the first month rather than pounds or inches lost. The current UK guidelines recommend 150 minutes of moderate intensity exercise every week to remain healthy and reduce the risk of chronic disease. Unfortunately, not many people manage this, with only 40% of people reporting they do this on a regular basis, which falls to only 5% when people are closely monitored rather than taking their word for it. This suggests people have a tendency to over-estimate how much exercise they do, so how can we change this? Countries that have good exercise compliance records do this not by sports or going to the gym, but by making exercise and physical activity part of the daily routine. Perhaps you could incorporate activity into your commute, such as walking briskly, cycling or even running part of the way. Have a think about how you can incorporate beneficial exercise into your daily routine.

The inpatient physiotherapy team at The Wellington Hospital have a broad range of skills and are registered members of the Chartered Society of Physiotherapy and the Health & Care Professions Council. If you would like to make an appointment at The Wellington Hospital, you can call the Enquiry Helpline team on 020 7483 5000.


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Sister act Former Vantage cover stars Jasmine and Melissa Hemsley are back with a second cookbook, Good + Simple. Packed with nutritious recipes, the sisters’ latest tome caters to those who want to eat healthily without forking out a fortune. Alongside advice on how to stock your cupboard and a one-week reboot based on their signature bone broth, you’ll find recipes for raw beetroot carpaccio, punchy piri-piri chicken wings with celeriac skinny fries and spicy huevos rancheros with guacamole (pictured). £25, hemsleyandhemsley.com Photo courtesy of Hemsley + Hemsley

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First of the summer wine Larder, the recently opened neighbourhood café in Fitzrovia, lives up to its name. As well as serving healthy breakfasts, lunchtime salads and afternoon treats (try the freshly baked cinnamon buns), Larder also sells artisan produce. Pop in to pick up freshly ground coffee, homemade pasta, charcuterie, cheese, freshly baked bread and artisan chocolate. What’s more, the house wine – Château La Coste – is available in reusable bottles, meaning regulars can enjoy a refill for £10. 8 Pearson Square, W1W, thelarder.co.uk

Food & drink news By Lauren Romano

Breaking the rules EDITOR'S PICK

Cured salmon rulada with wasabi aioli or pancetta-wrapped quail with Pedro Ximénez jus – the tapas served at new Covent Garden restaurant Duende isn’t strictly authentic, nor is it intended to be. The name roughly translates as ‘mischief’ in Spanish and accordingly chef patron Victor Garvey experiments with culinary influences from around the world. The wine list however, remains strictly Spanish. 16 Maiden Lane, WC2E duendelondon.com

Photography © Paul Winch-Furness

Rise and shine

Spice of life

Brunch is intended to be the most leisurely meal of the weekend, but in London you need to set an alarm clock to get a spot anywhere half decent. Recently opened Dickie Fitz might have the answer. The Fitzrovia eatery is open all-day, serving dishes with a Pacific twist. Expect Australian-inspired Saturday brunches, Sunday feasting (a whole Iberico suckling pig anyone?) and all-day dishes such as steamed barramundi with dashi, cabbage and dikon. And as it’s open around the clock even if you snooze, you should still be able to bag a bright canary yellow booth.

Whether it’s a bhuna or a chicken tikka marsala, old habits die hard when it comes to our favourite curries – something that Trishna has been trying to address since it opened in 2008. The restaurant’s Not Your Average Curry Night series is back, giving diners the opportunity to enjoy regionally inspired Michelin-starred Indian cooking, expertly matched with wines by sommelier and co-founder Sunaina Sethi (left). This month the focus will be on the fragrant south coast cuisine of Pondicherry.

48 Newman Street, W1T, dickiefitz.co.uk

£120, A Taste of Pondicherry, 19 April, 15-17 Blandford Street, W1U, trishnalondon.com


food&drink

Restaurant review

Return of the Maki Ellen Millard discovers sushi with a theatrical twist at Soho’s latest opening, Oliver Maki 

T

here aren’t many restaurants in the world that I would happily visit on a daily basis, but restaurateur Oliver Zeitoun is clearly less picky than I am, having allegedly eaten at one of his sushi joints every night for the past 12 years. With four branches of Oliver Maki in Kuwait and one in Bahrain, we can only assume that Zeitoun is racking up the air miles in his quest for a plate of nigiri, which might explain his latest Soho venture. Located on Dean Street, Oliver Maki’s first European outlet opened last month, promising to serve traditional Japanese cuisine with an international twist. Keen to try some real sushi for a change – and not the kind found on a supermarket shelf – I book myself a table. The space is probably best described as bijou, with a small dining area on the ground floor and a more open-plan affair upstairs that all in all fits just 55 covers. It feels compact, but this is largely due to the waves of diners streaming in on what turns out to be an unusually busy Monday night. After consulting the iPad menu, we start with juicy filo shrimp tempura that arrive upside down in a shot of

tangy mayonnaise sauce. We dip two spicy tuna cannoli – a crispy cigar-shaped pastry with a peppery tuna centre and a dollop of goat’s cheese – in the restaurant’s olive oil-infused soy sauce before crunching our way through the fried softshell crab that sits in a neon green puddle of curry sauce. Both are served with a citrusy shiromi (white fish) ceviche with onion, avocado and tomato that I can’t eat quickly enough. But the stars of the show are the two signature dishes: Oliver Maki and Sushi Jewels. The first is a 30-ingredient sushi plate divided into eight individual rolls. Our taste buds are put to the test as we attempt to distinguish between the exhaustive list of ingredients, which includes quinoa, mustard seeds, Mexican chilli and black truffle. The second signature arrives in a box with four drawers that open with a fanfare of smoke. We’re advised by a neighbouring table to work from the top down and we take their lead, devouring the brown rice nigiri one tray at a time. As we reach the bottom we discover the source of our neighbours’ recommendation: the maki rolls wrapped in beetroot are delicious. The presentation of the Sushi Jewel is certainly impressive, but the desserts are where head chef Louis Kenji Huang’s creative side excells. A tangy, Solero-like sauce spills out of a giant snowball of frozen coconut, which is perched on a bed of fruit salad and topped with a crispy biscuit hat, while a pastel-green tiramisu comes in a dome complete with a green leaf decoration and colourful chocolate rocks. By the end of my meal I’m beginning to understand why Oliver Maki’s founder is such a fan. As I slip out of the restaurant, I spy a man that looks distinctly like Zeitoun himself, proving that he’s a sushi fiend no matter which continent he’s in. I’m glad those air miles are being put to good use.

A tangy, Solero-like sauce spills out of a giant snowball of frozen coconut

All photography © Oliver Maki UK

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33 Dean Street, W1D, olivermaki.co.uk

Vantage | 85


STRONGER. SLIMMER. FIRMER. FITTER. in six week s ta k e 5 i nches off your waist, los e a s tone, doub le you r fi t nes s

“LOSE WEIGHT AND GAIN FITNESS IN RECORD TIME. WITH THE BODYDOCTOR’S WORKOUT ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE” The Sunday Times Style Magazine

Coming Soon B o dy d o c to r - Fi t f o r Lov e A co u p l e t h at sweat together , stay together

Th e B e s t Tra i n i n g I n Th e Wo r l d - An d i t ’s O n Yo u r D o o r s t e p ww w. bo dy d o c to r . c o m / 0 2 0 7 4 9 9 9 9 9 0 / s o u t h au d l e y s t r e e t, m ayfa i r w 1


the art of TRAVEL

Fix up, get smart Trapeze artistry, capoeira, navy SEAL training – hobbies of a more unusual persuasion are on the rise of late. The St Pancras Renaissance Hotel has taken note and launched a new series of creative (and complimentary) masterclasses. With the help of local businesses, the luxury hotel will equip guests with new skills (as well as the ability to drop: “I’m off to a food styling lesson” into casual conversation). First up is bespoke fashion studio Atelier Tammam, which will be hosting a life drawing and fashion illustration class. Other sessions exploring photography, design and literature are due to be rolled out throughout the summer, but if you’d rather just relax, the magnificent Sir George Gilbert Scott-designed building is the perfect place to unwind and do nothing at all. 24 March, 6pm-8pm, reservation via Eventbrite essential, Euston Road, NW1 stpancraslondon.com

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Travel news By Katie Stevens

Palm Springs

HOTSPOT

Discover boutique shops, breathtaking views and a music festival to rival Glastonbury in Palm Springs Just two hours outside of the sprawling megalopolis of Los Angeles, Palm Springs is a desert oasis of cool and calm, renowned as the playground of Hollywood’s elite. The Uptown Design District boasts an eclectic collection of boutiques while Downtown is home to Villagefest, a Thursday night market peppered with local artisans, artists and fine food. April marks the return of Coachella, with acts such as Calvin Harris, Ellie Goulding and James Bay. Alternatively, if you’re looking to slow the pace, explore the canyons and nature reserves or drink in the dramatic views of the San Jacinto Mountains. Palm Springs is the ideal place to get in touch with your inner explorer and hang out with the West Coast’s rich and famous at the same time.

Why

With its roots planted firmly in the prestigious history of Palm Springs and its mid-century heyday as a getaway destination for the likes of Marilyn Monroe and Betty Grable, the freshly re-established L’Horizon Hotel and Spa, designed by Steve Hermann, is one of the best places to stay in the area. Surrounded by the mountains, the 25 elegant bungalows with their monochrome colour schemes effortlessly nod to the hotel’s 1950s heritage while staying in keeping with Hermann’s trademark contemporary cool. Morning yoga sessions will set you up for a day of canyon exploring or relaxation in the hotel’s beautiful Sybaritic Spa.

stay

From £200 a night, lhorizonpalmsprings.com


tr avel

Pure shores

Mother nature

Situated in the first UNESCO Global Geopark in Southeast Asia, the latest St. Regis development on the Malaysian island of Langkawi promises a scenic getaway. Found in a beautiful cove, expect to wake up to white sand beaches and the unmistakable turquoise waves of the Andaman Sea. For those who wish to explore the translucent waters further, a yacht and sailboat charter is available, while back on land, tropical jungles and caves are there for the taking.

 SHORT HAUL 

Beyond the pines

From £428 a night starwoodhotels.com

Off the page This spring, relive moments from your favourite classics by taking a tour of Paris with the city’s literaturethemed hotel, Le Pavillon des Lettres. Stay for two nights and enjoy a private walking tour of St Germain des Prés, taking in some of literature’s most famous sights (including the world-famous Shakespeare & Company bookshop) then whizz around Paris in a vintage Citroën 2CV for another perspective on the city of love. A must for bookworms. From approx. £615 pavillondeslettres.com

In the heart of the New Forest, Lime Wood Hotel and Spa offers a luxurious getaway in a secluded spot. From romantic rooms in the eaves to cottages and cabins, Lime Wood provides rural charm for all. The Herb House Spa nods to nature with its Forest Sauna, Mud House and rooftop herb garden perfect for meditation. If food’s your thing, book a place at the hotel’s Hartnett Holder & Co Backstage cookery school kitchen, which plays host to a bevy of fabulous chefs this year, including Tom Kerridge, Natasha Corrett and Nathan Outlaw. From £275 a night limewoodhotel.co.uk

 long HAUL 

Hotline spring The suite life Rome, the mecca of Italian splendour and style, has a new jewel in its crown: Fendi’s Private Suites. Designed by Marco Costanzi, each of the seven unique spaces have been adorned with beautiful custom furniture from Fendi Casa, creating an allencompassing sense of pared-down luxury that is so often attributed to the family-run fashion house. Overlooking the Largo Goldoni square, the view alone is enough to entice you outside, while the suites’ iPad guides give a helping hand with creating unique itineraries and bespoke experiences for those who want to escape organised tours. The exquisite experience is topped off – literally – by the Zuma restaurant and rooftop bar on the fifth floor.

Looking to really get away from it all? Look no further: Aman’s new hot spring Amanemu Resort in Japan’s IseShima National Park ensures complete tranquillity. Generous terraces for each of the 24 suites create a sense of being at one with nature. Immerse yourself in the calming presence of the natural world on one of the park’s famed UNESCO-protected pilgrimage trails, or unwind in the hotel’s salt-infused spring water onsens, guaranteed to ease muscles and revitalise skin. From £563 a night aman.com

From approx. £465 a night fendiprivatesuites.com lu x u r y l o n d o n .c o.u k

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Kentisbury Grange, Kentisbury, Barnstaple, North Devon EX31 4NL weddings@kentisburygrange.co.uk | 01271 882 295 www.kentisburygrange.co.uk


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A Dam Good Time Lauren Romano is seduced by the quirky neighbourhoods amid the pretty canals of Amsterdam 

A

cautionary note to unwitting first-time pedestrians in Amsterdam: the Dutch don’t padlock their bikes with the arsenal of chains and cables that are obligatory in London. If you accidentally bump into a set of handlebars while trying to find your bearings on a broadsheet-sized map, tens of sets of wheels will topple like dominos in unstoppable slow motion, with nothing more than an absentminded jut of the elbow. Second note: Dutch riders might look innocent enough with their offspring/bunches of tulips/shopping stashed in the little wooden trunks on the front of their bikes, but once they are in the saddle do not get in their way, and definitely don’t stray into their (often confusingly marked) cycle lanes. It will not end well.

An angry trill of bicycle bells is ringing in our ears as we turn off onto the Herengracht canal. Together with the neighbouring canals of Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht, the trio of waterways were once arterial trade routes through the city, conjested with barges laden down by exotic cargos of sugar and spices. Today all that remains for this 17th century heyday are the narrow, towering canalside homes built for the merchants that once ruled the water. A few hundred years on and the quaint façades seem to tilt forward at impossible angles, as though playing a conspiratorial game of Chinese Whispers with the houseboats bobbing away on the glassy surface below. Today the neighbourhood is the picture of calm. Even on a drizzly and grey Tuesday afternoon with a suitcase in tow, it’s difficult not to linger or snoop into Photography © Alex Prior

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the many basement windows that line the pavement, or get sidetracked by the tributary roads that connect the three historic canals. At these junctions designer boutiques sit alongside vintage stores, bijou juice bars with trees growing inside, tapas-style restaurants and traditional brown cafés, more of which later. The Hoxton, Amsterdam blends in among its hip neighbours. It opened last summer as the first overseas outpost of the Hoxton hotel brand, which already has two bases in Shoreditch and Holborn. Inside, the Dutch sibling is unmistakably part of the family. There’s distressed wood panelling, artfully dishevelled 50s vintage furniture in a muted palette of burnt orange and brown, and an old photo booth where you can pose for grainy black and white snaps. But this isn’t just an East London shabby chic sort of abode; yes, it’s not exactly square, but it’s comfortable and smart too. A number of business meetings are taking place on the Chesterfield sofas in the mezzanine level bar when we arrive. Voices drift down to more laptop and paper-strewn tables arranged under a glass atrium at Lotti’s, the hotel’s restaurant. The check-in desk also serves as an old fashioned shop counter, selling snacks at supermarket prices (caramel laced stroopwafels and bottles of beer for €2). The Hoxton feels more like a local all-day hangout than a touristy mecca with a snaking concierge queue. Incidentally there isn’t really a concierge that I can see – although staff are more than happy to recommend their favourite haunts. Upstairs there are 111 rooms graded from ‘shoebox’ to ‘roomy’. We opt for the middle ground with ‘cosy’, although I dread to think just how compact the shoebox is. Cosy really is just that, it turns out. If you arrive with anything other than hand luggage, I’m not sure where you’d store it. There are only six hangers attached to a rail above a desk unit that also houses a fridge stocked with a pint of fresh milk and water each day, a mini bookshelf with a selection of well-thumbed volumes and a tea-making area. Given the makeshift wardrobe we have to push our suitcases under the bed in order to walk around it. Still, it’s an old building so the dimensions probably can’t be helped, plus the huge windows looking out over Herengracht canal make up for the lack of space. As does the décor, with its accents of teal blue and grey. The little design touches elevate the Hoxton into the boutique bracket – from the mustard yellow leather headboard to the Roberts radio, the Pen & Ink toiletries in the bathroom and the old vintage postcards bearing handwritten messages that are pinned to a noticeboard.


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Unpacking done, we’re ready to explore. You’re never far away from an art collection in the city. The Rijksmuseum, the Van Gogh Museum and the Stedelijk contemporary art museum are all only a 15-minute stroll away from the hotel, but the Hoxton adopts an adventurous, throw-the-guidebook-away and do-it-yourself sort of spirit. If you’re feeling brave enough, hire a bike from the hotel’s fleet and feel totally initiated into the local way of life. We decide that it’s probably more soothing to commute on foot and our ad hoc itinerary involves leisurely sauntering past cheese shops with their giant wheels of gouda on display; hopping into boutiques selling prints, antiques and jewellery; and dashing into traditional brown cafés to escape the rain. These are cosy, candlelit bars, so named because of their dark wood panelling and centuries-old smoke-stained walls, where you can sample almost every type of beer imaginable. The very patient barman at Biercafe Gollem points us in the direction of Trappist beer brewed by monks, which we sip perched on rickety bar stools. Away from the museum quarter and the touristy rabble by the

station, we get lost in the city’s quirkier, quieter neighbourhoods. We pass a leisurely hour watching the locals go by at Little Collins in bohemian De Pijp, where we tuck into the all-day brunch – buckwheat pancakes filled with Swiss chard, spiced pumpkin purée, dukkah and yoghurt dressing, topped with whipped mint feta, followed by white chocolate and blueberry cheesecake. The Nine Streets district is worth exploring too; at the encouragement of the staff at the Hoxton we head to Brix restaurant for small plates followed by cocktails at Finch in the lively nearby district of Jordaan. The weather at this time of year is unpredictable (the forecast warns of hail, snow showers, rain and brilliant sunshine in the space of an afternoon), so after a day of rambling with woolly hats, waterproofs and sunglasses to the ready, it’s hard not be more adventurous than heading to Lotti’s for dinner. For a Wednesday evening, it’s buzzing. With the first sips of a sharp yet sweet Rhubarbarian (vanilla-infused vodka, homemade rhubarb shrub, lemon and soda water) and a refreshing Eastern Standard (a cucumber and mintinfused gin concoction) we decided to leave our umbrellas upstairs and stay put. Two cocktails down and I slump quite contentedly into the folds of a mustard velvet armchair and wait for our table to be ready. The newly revamped menu at Lotti’s has an emphasis on Italian flavours, with burgers, grills and cured meats thrown in for good measure (my vegetarian dining companion’s doorstopper of a falafel burger with mint, tahini and aubergine, accompanied by truffle-infused sweet potato fries induces a serious degree of food envy). A dish of mixed beetroot, avocado, sunflower seeds and pesto is fresh and faultless, followed by the most moreish, salty titbits of creamy ricotta, broad bean and green chilli on toast. The Norwegian cod is so butter soft it almost dissolves in the mouth. It comes with a zingy salsa verde that complements a side dish of hazelnut and roasted butternut squash, served with the skins on for a satisfying chew. With our eyes bigger than our bellies, we finish with a chocolate brownie and gooey salted caramel ice cream and give thanks to the fact that it’s just a short stagger to our room and the most comfy bed ever (via a nightcap and a turn in the photo booth, naturally). Amsterdam might have a reputation as a party capital, but what with all the walking, afternoon beers and food, I can’t remember the last time I felt so relaxed and recharged on a city break. The only thing threatening my sense of inner calm is the cyclists, but by day three I decide if you can’t beat them, you should probably join them.

Away from the museum quarter and the touristy rabble by the station, we get lost in the city’s quirkier neighbourhoods

‘Roomy’ rooms from €119 a night thehoxton.com

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Vantage | 93


Ave

Marie

St Tropez lives up to the hype with expensive yachts and designer boutiques, but relaxation is also on the agenda, as Ellen Millard discovers ďƒľ


tr avel

I

f I open my eyes, I’ll be able to see the azure blue sea stretching for miles in front of me, its gentle waves lapping at the sand, decimating sandcastles in its wake. I can hear the quiet murmur of people talking over cocktails, book pages being turned and the occasional splash as somebody braves the waves, only to rush out again and warm up under the still-scorching September sun. When I do eventually rouse from my slumber, it’s not for the views. Instead, a cheerful and what sounds

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like a rather intoxicated rendition of Happy Birthday punctuates the peaceful silence, followed by raucous cheering and yet another round of singing. The noise is coming from Le Club 55, St Tropez’s most famous restaurant where guests such as Elton John, Rihanna and Kate Moss prop up the bar, revelling in the shelter it provides from prying paparazzi. But today’s visitors are doing little to blend in, and as a third celebratory chorus rises over the partition between the public and the private stretch of Pampelonne Bay, I open my eyes to see a group of people dive-bomb into the water off a yacht moored several miles away, from which I can hear the dull bass tones of a boat party in full swing. Such is the nature of St Tropez. On my short but sweet sojourn to the most famous French resort, I discover a town divided in two; not in a conflicted or geographical way, but in a way that gives you the best of both the worlds that the French Riviera has to offer. Much like Ibiza, you can live an A-list lifestyle should you wish, aboard yachts that cost more than your house and in restaurants that come with a hefty bill. You can leave the buzz behind and retreat to the rolling hills, where you can enjoy views of the beach without the background noise. Or, you can do both. It’s the latter that I’ve signed up for at Villa Marie. Overlooking Pampelonne Bay and set across three hectares, Villa Marie is in fact a hotel, but it feels more like a lavish holiday home, with just 45 bedrooms and welcoming staff that greet you like old friends. Jocelyne Sibuet, one of the hotel’s founders, is responsible for the décor, and as the porter closes the door of my room behind him I decide that Madame Sibuet has something of a knack for interior design. Duck-egg blue walls, taupe furniture and a plush king-size bed invite me in. It’s hard to resist the temptation to jump into the giant

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All images Villa Marie / L. Di Orio, C. Larit, HKV & DR

freestanding tub before unpacking, but I manage to hold off until later in the evening when I relieve the stress of a day’s travelling with a long, bath salt-infused soak. Outside, a terrace overlooks Villa Marie’s pool, a suntrap where you can while away many an hour soaking up the rays before cooling off with a dip in the clear water. There’s a compact but well-equipped gym for those who can prise themselves off the sun loungers for half an hour and a bijou spa for anyone who wishes to indulge further. I opt for the latter, and enjoy the relaxing massage. My therapist presents me with a selection of oils to choose from, before lighting a complementing candle and getting to work on the knots in my back. The repercussions of slouching in my desk chair vanish within the hour, and I leave the spa feeling relaxed and standing taller. The cuisine, as you might expect, is exceptional too. A lunch of beefsteak tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella and pesto, beef carpaccio and Genovese-style steak tartare is served on the terrace overlooking the pool, with the hotel’s own wine, Domaine de Marie. In the evening, the terrace is dotted with guests sipping sundowners and I enjoy a glass of champagne before dining at the hotel’s restaurant, Dolce Vita. It’s here that my appetite is truly put to the test. On the first night a mammoth five-course meal begins with an amouse-bouche of tomato, feta and strawberries, followed by a starter of


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buttery potatoes infused with pesto and topped with salty anchovies. I choose the roasted sea bass for my main course, which comes with succulent artichokes. The desserts are a whole other ball game. The fluffiest lemon soufflé for two with raspberry ice cream and a bowl of fresh berries is the standout, but I can’t fault the wine poached pear with orange sorbet, the crunchy meringue topped with blackberries, the praline and hazelnut craquelin, or the rich dark chocolate tart. Just as we start waving the white flag and unbuckling our belts, a plate of macarons and madeleines arrive, making our excuse of ‘sampling the menu’ two petit fours away from gluttonous. It would be easy to spend the entire weekend within the confines of Villa Marie, dining on good food and walking it off in the surrounding woodland, but the concierge service is on hand should you feel the need to explore beyond the boundaries. One afternoon we enjoy a picnic lunch at Pampelonne Bay. We stick to the public stretch, but, if you wanted something a little more exclusive, restaurants and bars with their own sunloungers and oncall bar staff are just a short stroll along the powdery sand. As we’re there during low season, the beach is comfortably populated with a smattering of sun worshippers soaking up the final rays of the season, but I’m warned that June, July and August present a tricky game of sardines and towel tetris. If this isn’t your idea of fun, Villa Marie can take you to an alternative ‘secret location’ for a peaceful afternoon of solo sunbathing. Another day, we take the hotel’s shuttle bus down to the city centre to peruse the designer boutiques that line the streets of Place des Lices, Rue Gambetta and Rue Allard. Plans to pick up souvenirs are swiftly put aside as we make a beeline for Fendi, Bottega Veneta and Dior House instead, an impressive three-

story building where you can pick up the latest garb from Italy’s finest, along with breakfast al fresco at the on-site restaurant headed up by three Michelinstarred chef Yannick Alléno. We spy similar foodie offerings at Chloé, and it’s soon clear that Breakfast at Tiffany’s – eggs with side of diamonds – has been taken rather literally. We decide to sample the local delicacy instead, and pick up a selection of baby tarte tropézienne to try: delicious macaron-shaped brioche buns filled with a generous layer of cream. To experience life like a local, the Places des Lices is worth a visit on Tuesday and Saturday mornings, when it transforms into an open-air marché. Stalls teeming with pans of paella, bowls of olives and fresh fruit and vegetables sit next to stacks of pashminas, rows of Breton T-shirts and more antiques than an episode of Bargain Hunt. This is the place to pick up a souvenir, but it’s definitely not a tourist trap. Alongside those searching for a memento to take home are locals, stocking up on homewares or grabbing a bite to eat. Despite it being nearly 30 degrees, the stalls selling coats and knitwear are swamped – apparently what would be deemed heatwave temperatures in London warrant a (chic) puffa jacket in St Tropez. In the evenings, the Place des Lices is cleared, and the locals come en masse to sip wine and play pétanque, where the aim of the game is to throw metal balls as close to a smaller plastic one as possible. On our final night, we give it a go, keeping a watchful eye on the surrounding games in an attempt to pick up a few pointers. After being put to shame by the locals, we take a short stroll down the terracotta streets to the waterfront. It’s here that we get a glimpse of Karl Lagerfeld’s favourite haunt, Sénéquier, where sightings of fashion’s elite are rife, and a coffee will set you back €10. As we’re there during the opening weekend of Les Voiles de Saint-Tropez, one of the area’s exclusive sailing regattas, the port is full, and you can hardly see the water for the number of boats. We join the crowds to watch crew members washing down decks and preparing the sails, and queue for a taste of Glacier Barbarac’s famous ice cream. Back at the hotel, the sound of flowing water and the buzz of cicadas greets us, a melodic soundtrack that makes us feel a world away from the lively port we’ve just left behind. St Tropez is alive with people, things to do and landmarks to see, but, with hidden pockets of oasis like Villa Marie tucked up its sleeve, it’s one of those rare places where you can have your tarte tropézienne and eat it, too.

It would be easy to spend the entire weekend within the confines of Villa Marie, dining on good food and walking it off in the surrounding woodland

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Villa Marie reopens on 4 May, rooms start from €290 a night based on two people sharing, villamarie.fr

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The bathroom in the Mandarin River View room

Feast in the East Who says Chinese food is all chicken chow mein and Peking duck? Not Jasmine Phillips, who fills up on the culture and cuisine of Shanghai and Chengdu 

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haven’t been to China before, but I am intrigued by the sense of hunger, urgency and optimism it embodies in the outsider’s mind; a country building itself, grappling with its identity, pushing for change and reaching into the future. These are all things I can relate to, particularly the hunger, because if there’s one thing above all that I’m looking forward to, it’s the food. I can almost smell the dumplings as Shanghai comes into view through the plane window, and I wonder if China and I are destined to become great friends. The first test of friendship comes immediately – will I be able to navigate road signs after a 12-hour flight? As it turns out, I only need to identify one sign: the one with my name on it held by the hotel chauffeur. Such relief, but I am sad to miss out on the magnetic levitation train: a silver-suited display of technological showmanship to all Shanghai’s new arrivals, the fastest train in the world. And it only takes eight minutes to zoom into the city. “Seven”, the driver corrects me. I am whisked through the urban sprawl to the Mandarin Oriental in Pudong, although admittedly I

This page: Mandarin Oriental, photography © George Apostolidis

Presidential Suite living room

don’t notice much, apart from the comfiness of the bed, until I’ve emerged from a much-needed nap. The light is flooding in when I wake up and I rush to the window: I’m 20 floors up and have an uninterrupted view of the Oriental Pearl TV Tower, the signature building of modern Shanghai. Almost laughable in its cartoonish, futuristic glamour, I have the same view from my bathtub, so I soak away my jet lag while I admire the scenery. My introduction to Shanghainese cuisine comes courtesy of the elegant hotel restaurant, Yong Yi Ting, where I sip and slurp my way through the 12 courses of the seasonally changing tasting lunch in the customary style. Plump king prawns in sea urchin sauce and tea-smoked duck are served alongside Chinese chardonnay. This is the best of traditional cuisine, made and presented with a modern formal flourish – a kind of oriental fine dining that I’m told you couldn’t find in the city until relatively recently. Outside, the shining exterior of the hotel fits in with all the gleaming skyscrapers and designer shopping mall I can see from my tub. Incredibly, Pudong was just old docks and paddy fields until the 1990s.


tr avel Yong Yi Ting restaurant

Cocktails at Fifty 8° Grill

Tall chef hats bob between four open kitchens, tending to bubbling pots and rolling out dumpling dough

A short taxi ride away across the Huangpu River is the riverside strip known as the Bund. It’s a magnificent sweeping promenade with an unrivalled view of old Shanghai on one side and the new gleaming spires of Pudong on the other. Yes, it’s teeming with Chinese and Western tourists wandering the street, but the mood is relaxed, like

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an Italian passeggiata, and many people have clearly dressed up especially for this slalom of first-rate photo opportunities. Widely snapped is the Peace Hotel, an old-town beauty built in 1929. This art deco monument was the social centre of the city and now houses one of Shanghai’s famous rooftop bars – a great place to watch the sunset with a cocktail in hand. I bypass the jazz lounge, where heads are nodding in low-lit corners and the smell of single malt is in the air. On the top floor a glass of champagne is thrust into my hand before I realise I’ve been ushered into a party for a Shanghai Film Festival premiere. But I can’t shmooze with the celebrities for long because I have a massage booked. Poor me. Away from the lights and among the orange and sandalwood oils of the hotel spa, I find deep relaxation, followed by a languid midnight swim in the Egyptian-style pool. I feel like an Eastern queen on the hessian daybed, and am greeted in true Mandarin Oriental style with chocolate truffles by my pillow when I return to my room. If I wasn’t won over already, it’s breakfast that makes me weak at the knees. Tall chef hats bob between four open kitchens, tending to bubbling pots and rolling out dumpling dough. Stacks of waffles sit alongside a glistening fountain of honey, cardamom-spiced brioche, eggs cooked every way, and traditional options such as congee (rice porridge) topped with pickled daikon, tender seaweed or bright, fresh spring onion. This is true breakfast alchemy, Mr Wonka’s next foray. And it’s Augustus Gloop I’m channelling when I opt for black sesame ice cream – because, why not? Shanghai has lots of new dishes to challenge and excite a curious Western palate. Experiencing the fine international cuisine of Three on The Bund and restaurants from the likes of Jason Atherton – the chef behind Pollen Street Social has two in the city now – is a must, but you’d be foolish not to delve into the vibrant street food scene too. Let yourself be led down the back alleys by the

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The Drawing Room at St. Regis Chengdu

Athletic Club swimming pool

people who know best: UnTour Shanghai. The tour operator has been running food tours in the city for five years and can show you the best spots for authentic cuisine. Weaving through the backstreets, stepping back from roaring flames and spitting woks, dodging buckets of snakes and frogs as the lids are lifted for diners to choose their delicacy, gives you a taste of another side of life in Shanghai – but one that is rapidly disappearing to make way for the new. I’m told one of the markets we were to visit was closed just the week before. Among the stalls of delicious hand-pulled noodles and questionable frog stew, UnTour introduces me to a magical little peppercorn with a very individual hot, numbing heat. Central to the fiery cuisine of Sichuan, this peppercorn is what draws me to the next city on my journey, Chengdu, a former UNESCO City of Gastronomy. Three and a half hours away by plane, Chengdu is another vast metropolis of high-rise buildings much like Shanghai, but calmer and more spread out. It was part of the Silk Road, the ancient trade route linking China, Southeast Asia, India and the Middle East, so it’s used to passing travellers. And last year it made it onto The New York Times list of top holiday destinations. It’s fast becoming a luxury travel hotspot too with openings from Swire Hotels and Six Senses. I stay at the St. Regis. Despite being semi-recently opened, this Starwood hotel is already a byword for luxury in the city, and has a floral display in the grand lobby so beautiful that young girls keep popping in from the street to take selfies and pose in front of it.

The Great Hall at St. Regis Chengdu

The floral display in the lobby is so beautiful that girls come in from the street to take selfies in front of it

This page: St. Regis Chengdu, photography © Michael Weber


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The rooms are rather lovely too, with their 1920s design touches, but my phone stays in my pocket and doesn’t come out until I discover the rooftop bar, coincidentally named Vantage XXVII. Enjoying the view of the city skyline, we’re served the signature Bloody Mary spiked, of course, with Sichuan pepper, while DJ Luna spins ambient house tunes. The hotel is very proud of its restaurant here too. The chefs entertain me with tales of eating scorpian stings and snake venom. Thankfully, neither of those are on the menu and I settle for a local dish called hui guo rou (twice-cooked pork). The tender, fatty pork belly is simmered then stir-fried with an umami-rich paste of Sichuan spice and broad beans – it melts in my mouth. I follow this with an early night, ready to explore the next day. When you are out in the morning in China, you mingle with water calligraphers, tai chi masters and Chinese pensioners walking backwards. In Chengdu, you’ll find them all in the wonderfully peaceful People’s Park which later in the day fills up with sugar spinners making honey-hued dragonflies on lolly sticks, grasshopper sellers and locals drinking tea beneath the katsura trees and getting their ears cleaned by men with tuning forks and fluffy sticks. If you’ve submitted to the questionable treatment and need your hearing back, you can always ask the ‘lucky’ tree on nearby Jinli Street. Its branches are heavy with unreasonable demands packaged sweetly in tasselled silk pouches. The surrounding lanes are lined with Qing dynasty-style houses dripping with pretty Chinese lanterns and stalls selling intricate shadow puppets that must be admired. And, if you’re hungry, the Tibetan quarter offers much in the way of yak. Head to the Wide and Narrow Alley for a traditional tea ceremony and a Sichuan Opera show, or to the tastefully modern Taikoo Li, a newly built urban space where ancient temples sit by piazzas of galleries and boutiques. There are brunch spots galore (try the wonderful Moka Brothers), interesting homegrown brands such as Monosociety selling stylish stationery, while underneath is a trendy, vaultedconcrete bookshop modelled on a Buddhist secret scripture library. On my third day I head out to Chengdu’s panda sanctuary, a 30-minute taxi ride from the city. It doubles as a beautiful park where bamboo abounds, and is home to more than 100 pandas. The coos of fellow panda-watchers emerge through the leaves to guide you to the nearest one, where you will inevitably find it doing something unbearably cute. I have since discovered that they employ professional panda huggers here, so am considering a swift return.

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I round of my trip with the ultimate experience in Sichuan cuisine: hotpot. A large vessel of bubbling broth sits in the centre of the table, its surface scattered with whole star anise and Sichuan peppercorns suspended in a layer of glossy red chilli oil. We plunge meats, clams, lotus root, pea shoots, mushrooms (I lose track!) into the pot to cook – and get ready to scorch our tastebuds. Friends excitedly told me about the opening of London’s first dedicated hotpot restaurant, Shuang Shuang, when I got back. I jumped at the chance of recreating this wonderful, sociable experience. I’m just glad they’re not offering frog stew. Yan Ting main dining room

All-day dining at Social

 Need to know  Mandarin Oriental Pudong, Shanghai Rooms from £220 a night on a B&B basis mandarinoriental.com/shanghai St. Regis Chengdu Deluxe rooms from £134 per room, per night (room only) starwoodhotels.com/stregis UnTour Shanghai food tours from around £50 untourshanghai.com

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HOME OF COMPASSION A CARING HOMES RESIDENCE

Luxury care home in beautiful Thames Ditton

What matters to you, matters to us Home of Compassion, the impressive Grade II* mansion in the heart of Thames Ditton, is re-opening as a luxury care home. We are dedicated to providing dignified and respectful residential, nursing and dementia care, from qualified professionals with facilities to rival those of a grand hotel. Residents will be able to live the life they wish in a very comfortable and prestigious setting.

Don’t just take our word for it, come and see for yourself, our marketing suite is now open for viewings.

0808 223 5003

www.homeofcompassion.co.uk enquiries@caringhomes.org High Street, Thames Ditton, KT7 0TT


P R O P E RT Y Showcasing the finest HOMES & PROPERTY from the best estate agents

Image courtesy of UNNA Luxury Resorts & Residences


10TH EDITION / 2016

OUT NOW

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We pride ourselves on exceptional service and unrivalled market knowledge, with a global network that ensures your home is showcased to the widest possible audience. For further information regarding The Wealth Report or to arrange a market appraisal please contact: KnightFrank.co.uk/stjohnswood stjohnswood@knightfrank.com 020 7586 2777

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Canfield Gardens NW6 ÂŁ1,850,000

On a premier street in the South Hampstead Conservation Area, a newly refurbished split level apartment offering bright accommodation throughout.

1968 sq ft/183 sq m 18ft vaulted reception 19ft 2nd reception 4 bedrooms Roof terrace Contact West Hampstead Office 020 7794 7111

South Hampstead 020 7625 4567 nw6@parkheath.com

Belsize Park 020 7431 1234 nw3@parkheath.com

West Hampstead 020 7794 7111 192@parkheath.com

Kentish Town 020 7485 0400 kt@parkheath.com

Property Management 020 7722 6777 pm@parkheath.com

Kensal Rise 020 8960 4845 kensal@parkheath.com

www.parkheath.com


Howitt Road NW3 ÂŁ2,600,000

A newly refurbished raised ground and garden maisonette with two spacious entertaining areas, within a period conversion in the heart of Belsize Park.

1900 sq ft/177 sq m 35ft open plan reception 3 double bedrooms 3 bathrooms Private patio and garden

South Hampstead 020 7625 4567 nw6@parkheath.com

Belsize Park 020 7431 1234 nw3@parkheath.com

West Hampstead 020 7794 7111 192@parkheath.com

Kentish Town 020 7485 0400 kt@parkheath.com

Contact Belsize Park Office 020 7431 1234

Property Management 020 7722 6777 pm@parkheath.com

Kensal Rise 020 8960 4845 kensal@parkheath.com

www.parkheath.com


20 Abbey Road St John’s Wood, NW8 £1,450,000 Leasehold

The Yoo Building St John’s Wood, NW8 £1,750,000 Leasehold

A beautifully refurbished two double bedroom apartment (962 sq ft / 89 sq m) situated on the 10th floor of this modern portered block on London’s famous Abbey Road featuring stunning far reaching views. Accommodation comprises reception room, kitchen with breakfast bar, master bedroom with en-suite bathroom, second double bedroom and family bathroom. Benefits include an underground parking space, 24 hour porterage and a beautiful indoor swimming pool for residents.

An immaculately presented three bedroom, three bathroom apartment (1289 sq ft / 120 sq m) situated on the third floor of this modern architecturally designed block. The apartment is enviably located at the front of the building which affords a pleasant aspect and features a stunning double volume reception room with an abundance of natural light. Additional benefits include 24hr porterage, secure allocated parking and a passenger lift

The Galleries St John’s Wood, NW8 £2,150,000 Leasehold

Abercorn Place St John’s Wood, NW8 £2,175,000 Leasehold

A three bedroom luxury duplex apartment (1,670 sq ft / 155 sq m) benefiting from 24-hour porterage, comfort cooling and underground parking for one car. The apartment is finished to a high standard including wood flooring, fitted wardrobes and a Poggen-Pohl kitchen and features its own private front door and patio garden. The Galleries is situated within short walking distance of St Johns Wood High Street and underground station.

An architecturally designed three bedroom duplex apartment (1574 sq ft / 146 sq m) situated on the second and third floors of this period converted house in prime St John’s Wood. The property has been beautifully refurbished throughout, combining contemporary design with some traditional features. This stunning home benefits from impressive living and entertaining accommodation as well as a fantastic dual aspect roof terrace with far reaching views.

020 7722 2223 | www.hanover-residential.com


Penthouse Aberdeen Court Little Venice, W9 £2,695,000 Leasehold

St James Close St John’s Wood, NW8 £2,950,000 Leasehold

A newly constructed three bed penthouse apartment (1,935 sq ft / 180 sq m) offering the best of lateral luxury living with breath-taking panoramic views across London. The entire entertaining space is fashioned from beautiful natural wood inspired floor tiling with underfloor heating and boasts unique features such as a spectacular domed dining room and direct lift access in to the apartment. Impeccably designed by Hyde House Interiors.

An exceptional four bedroom duplex apartment (1,755 sq ft / 163 sq m) situated on the ground and first floors of this premier block on Prince Albert Road with resident porter. The apartment provides spacious and contemporary accommodation and is presented in excellent decorative condition. Features include its own private entrance, a double reception room, wooden flooring, guest wc, ample storage and views towards Regents Park from the first floor.

London House St John’s Wood, NW8 £3,150,000 Share of Freehold

Grove Court St John’s Wood, NW8 £3,500,000 Share of Freehold

A spacious and bright four bedroom apartment (1750 sq ft / 163 sq m) situated on the second floor of this prestigious 24 hour portered block. The apartment has the rare benefit of an exceptional private south east facing terrace measuring 30’9 x 27’7 in addition to a balcony and one underground parking space. London House is located on Avenue Road close to Regent’s Park and St John’s Wood High Street.

An elegant four bedroom apartment (1911 sq ft / 177 sq m) located on the fourth floor of this much sought after portered building in St John’s Wood. Accommodation comprises an impressive reception room with access to a balcony, separate dining room, modern kitchen, principal bedroom with en-suite bathroom, three further bedrooms, family bathroom, guest wc. Benefits include passenger lift, limited off street parking and a share of the freehold.

020 7722 2223 | www.hanover-residential.com


Fairfax Place South Hampstead, NW6 £1,249,000 Freehold

Queensmead St John’s Wood, NW8 £2,750,000 Freehold

Rarely available, a well presented three double bedroom, three bathroom mid terraced house (1209 sq ft / 126 sq m) located in this quiet cobbled mews off Fairfax Road. This contemporary house is offered in good decorative condition and features excellent accommodation over three floors including modern kitchen and bathrooms. Fairfax Place is located close to the shops, amenities and transport links of Swiss Cottage and Finchley Road ( Jubilee lines).

A delightful bright and spacious five bedroom family home (2007 sq ft / 186 sq m) set on this prestigious portered modern development. This three storey, end of terraced house is offered in good decorative condition throughout and comprises two reception rooms, good sized kitchen, three bathrooms, guest WC, private patio garden and single garage. Queensmead offers additional off street parking on a first come first served basis.

The Bishops Avenue Hampstead Garden Suburb, N2 £3,999,999 Freehold

Springfield Road St John’s Wood, NW8 £5,950,000 Freehold

Set back from the road behind a secluded garden is this six bedroom double-fronted detached Arts & Crafts style house spanning some 3,416 sq ft (318 sq m). The house is presented in excellent decorative order throughout and benefits from an impressive rear garden, plus double garage accessed via a private road. The internationally renowned Bishops Avenue is well located for all local amenities including East Finchley Station (Northern Line).

A double fronted low built detached family home (3875 sq ft / 360 sq m) discretely positioned on Springfield Road. This three storey house benefits from an open plan reception area on the ground floor, six bedrooms and four bathrooms. There is a large garden to the rear as well as off street parking to the front of the house for two cars.

020 7722 2223 | www.hanover-residential.com


Middle Field St John’s Wood, NW8 £3,750,000 Freehold

A beautifully refurbished five-bedroom family house (2161 sq ft / 200 sq m) located in this quiet enclave in St John’s Wood. The house has the benefit of a full home automation system and has been architecturally designed throughout. There is a beautiful kitchen breakfast room leading to the reception room and then dining room overlooking the delightful rear garden. Three of the bedrooms offer en-suite facilities and there is an additional family bathroom. Off street parking for one car is provided behind secure gates. Middle Field is conveniently located for the amenities of both St John’s Wood and Swiss Cottage.

020 7722 2223 | www.hanover-residential.com


P O R T L A N D P L A C E LO N D O N W 1 A spectacular 8,000 sq. ft. “Home in the Sky” occupying the entire 8th floor and part lower floors of this contemporary building approaching Regent Street.

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Arguably one of the best Penthouses in London, designed from inception to completion, creating a wonderful family home with expansive 360 degree views across Marylebone, Regent’s Park and the West End of London. With direct access from a secure lift, the property is designed in a contemporary style featuring floor to ceiling panoramic windows, beautiful entertaining spaces with high ceilings and an abundance of natural light and space. The penthouse benefits from a separate internal lift servicing all three floors along with a garden terrace and lap pool.

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Ian G


Accommodation Guest WC, Reception Room, Dining Area, Kitchen / Breakfast Room, Master Bedroom Suite with His & Hers Dressing Rooms and Bathroom including Steam Shower, Three Further Bedroom Suites, Family Room leading onto Garden / Terrace, Swimming Pool, Shower Room, Steam Room, WC, Lift, Media / Cinema Room, Guest Bedroom Suite, Two Staff Bedrooms, Shower Room / WC, Utility Room, Lift.

Amenities Swimming Pool, Roof Terracing, Porter, Secure Lift Access, Underground Parking, Air Conditioning, iPad controlled Programmable Lighting and Blinds, Underfloor Heating throughout, Industrial Refrigerator / Larder.

PRICE ON APPLICATION

15:32

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SOLE AGENT

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property

Property Listings See below for estate agents in your area

Arlington Residential 8 Wellington Road NW8 9SP 020 7722 3322 arlingtonresidential.co.uk

Aston Chase 69 / 71 Park Road NW1 6XU 020 7724 4724 astonchase.com

Hanover 102 St John’s Wood Terrace NW8 6PL 020 7722 2223 49 Welbeck Street W1G 9XN 020 8128 0675 hanover-residential.com

ian green residential 28 De Walden House Allitsen Road NW8 020 7586 1000 iangreenresidential.com

Laurence Leigh 60 Queens Grove NW8 6ER 020 7483 0101 laurenceleigh.com

Marsh & Parsons 35 Maida Vale W9 1TP 020 7368 4458 27 Parkway NW1 7PN 020 7244 2200

PHILLIPS HARROD 85-87 Bayham Street NW1 OAG 0207 1234 152 phillipsharrod.com

Property Divas 34a Rosslyn Hill NW3 1NH 020 7431 8000 propertydivas.com

91 Salusbury Road NW6 6NH 020 7624 4513 marshandparsons.co.uk Globe Apartments 45 Chiltern Street W1U 6LU 020 7034 3430 globeapt.com

Knight Frank 5-7 Wellington Place NW8 7PB 020 7586 2777 79-81 Heath Street NW3 6UG 020 7431 8686

Hamptons International 99 St John’s Wood Terrace NW8 6PL 020 7717 5319 21 Heath Street NW3 6TR 020 7717 5301 hamptons.co.uk

RUNWILD MEDIA GROUP

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55 Baker Street W1U 8EW 020 3435 6440 60 Salusbury Road NW6 6NP 020 3815 3020 2c England’s Lane NW3 4TG 020 3815 3350 knightfrank.co.uk

Parkheath 208 Haverstock Hill NW3 2AG 020 7431 1234 8a Canfield Gardens NW6 3BS 020 7625 4567

Savills 7 Perrin’s Court NW3 1QS 020 7472 5000 15 St John’s Wood High Street NW8 7NG 020 3043 3600 savills.co.uk

savills.co.uk 192 West End Lane NW6 1SG 020 7794 7111 148 Kentish Town Road NW1 9QB 020 7485 0400 parkheath.com

TK International 16-20 Heath Street NW3 6TE 020 7794 8700 t-k.co.uk

If you would like to appear within the property pages of VANTAGE, contact Friday Dalrymple, property manager, on 020 7987 4320 or f.dalrymple@runwildgroup.co.uk

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Beautifully crafted apartments starting from £655,000 Launching in April

Register now 020 7205 4349 fenmanhouse.co.uk

Marketing Suite 14–15 Stable Street King’s Cross, N1C 4AB

KINGSCROSS.CO.UK

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11/03/2016 15:31


The Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings

Drawing of St Dunstan-in-the-West by SPAB Scholar Ptolomy Dean

Founded by William Morris, the SPAB protects the historic environment from decay, damage and demolition. It responds to threats to old buildings, trains building professionals, craftspeople, homeowners and volunteers and gives advice about maintenance and repairs. Since 1877 countless buildings have been saved for future generations.

Information about maintaining your home is available through events, courses, lectures, publications and telephone advice. To support our work why not join the SPAB? Members receive a quarterly magazine, our list of historic properties for sale and access to our regional activities.

www.spab.org.uk 020 7377 1644 A charitable company limited by guarantee registered in England & Wales. Company no: 5743962 Charity no: 1113753 37 Spital Square, London E1 6DY


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A collection of warehouse apartments in a transformed furniture factory One, two and three bedroom apartments Prices starting from ÂŁ525,000* Scheme completing in Summer 2016

W W W.T H E M A P L E B U I L D I N G .C O M R EG I S T E R YO U R I N T E R E S T N O W +44 (0) 203 8 1 1 1 304 O R E M A I L N E W H O M E S @ S AV I L L S.C O M * p r i c e c o r re ct at time of prin t


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Surf

Putt

Dive

Dine

Here in Barbados, every day is just waiting for you to design it. From diving our wrecks and working up an appetite for the day’s catch. To sporting action on land and sea – or total inaction involving a lounger, a book and a glass. We’ve also taken the magic inside. Our architect-designed two to five bedroom residences are exquisitely finished, and located right on the shoreline.

UNNA Luxury Resorts & Residences

For holidays and home ownership visit portferdinand.com and stpetersbaybarbados.com. Then call 0800 097 0847.

Beautiful places to press pause


HOT PROPERTY

The Picture of Paradise With its sea, sun and cocktails, life in Barbados seems hard to beat, especially when UNNA Luxury Resorts & Residences is involved

A

rriving at the airport after a long journey is a tiresome affair. The lack of sleep, swollen ankles and long passport queues can test even the calmest traveller’s patience, even if the place they have just landed at is Barbados. The team at UNNA Luxury Resorts & Residences have thought of this though, and are there to meet and greet guests with a fast-track airport service. They ensure that residents are the first people out of the airport and are shuttled to one of two picturesque resorts on the beautiful Caribbean island quicker than you can say ‘rum punch’. The first of UNNA’s properties on the west coast of Barbados is Saint Peter’s Bay, a resort of 57 ocean-facing apartments, ranging from $1.895m for a 2,700 sq ft ground floor threebedroom apartment to $6.5m for a 6,300 sq ft five-bedroom penthouse. Each property, decked out in traditional Bajan architecture, overlooks a slice of white sandy beachfront. The penthouse apartments are naturally the most impressive, with stunning 360-degree views from the roof terrace across the ocean and luscious green landscape of Barbados. In the rest of the property, spacious living areas, en suite bathrooms and a well-

Saint Peter’s Bay

Apartment 202 at Saint Peter’s Bay

Saint Peter’s Bay apartment


property

equipped kitchen are set up for entertaining. There is easy access to the front door via a lift and direct access via a ‘bikini lift’ to the beach at the rear. The resort also offers a gym, private training room and a small hair salon on site, but the main attraction is the Gazebo bar and pool that serves breakfast, lunch and supper and is a great place to meet other residents and guests. Port Ferdinand is the other of the two resorts managed by UNNA, situated just a few minutes’ drive north of Speightstown. Arriving by water taxi is the best way to admire the 82 residences. The turquoise waters of the Port Ferdinand Marina and the gleaming white apartments (from $2.25m for a two-bed home to $7.75m for the five-bedroom penthouse) resting on the harbour are postcard worthy. There are two design styles available, one with dark wood hues and marble flooring and the other with light maple woodwork and neutral limestone. Each residence has handcrafted coral walls, locally made oak cupboards and concealed air conditioning and four come with their own private swimming pools. The resort exterior is just as impressive, with palm trees adorning the walkway and a private berth (there are 120 in total) outside the front door. There is certainly no chance of getting bored here – the amenities are extensive. There is a modern gym, conference centre, the fine-dining restaurant 13°/59°, and the Quarterdeck Bar and Pizzeria with a pool (which serves a great variety of crispy thin pizzas and Italian-inspired nibbles). And if this isn’t enough to entertain your family or guests, further around the marina is a kids’ play area where they can be kept busy with daily activities including sailing and arts and crafts. Grown-ups meanwhile can escape to The Sandbox Tree Spa, set in a quiet leafy gully (drop a pin and you’ll hear it) where you can enjoy personalised treatments, or relax in the adults-only area, which has a golf simulator – Nick Bradley is just one of the experts who comes to offer residents tips on their game. Sports wise, those looking to stay active can learn to wakeboard or waterski, play polo or try their luck at deep sea fishing. If this sounds too strenuous, take a tour of the island instead. Both resorts share facilities so there is never a dull moment and the UNNA concierge can also advise residents on what to do around Barbados. A trip on a chartered catamaran from Port Ferdinand Marina is one of the best ways to enjoy the island. Alternatively, try the catch of the day at local fine-dining restaurants or pop down to Holetown for some shopping at many luxury labels including Burberry, Louis Vuitton or Michael Kors. Whether you opt for an apartment on the marina or the beach, it will undoubtedly be a great investment, either as a turn-key family residence or as a holiday home to rent out. Port Ferdinand apartments are predicted to rent from $650 per night for a two-bed in the summer, nearing $2,785 for a three-bed during the winter peak season. But the key selling point is the services, facilities and support that UNNA provides, which costs an average of $2,000 a month. Staff are friendly, welcoming and extremely efficient when it comes to ensuring that everyone has the best time in the Carribean, whether that’s waterskiing, wakeboarding, jet-skiing, snorkelling or turtle-watching; a personal yoga session; a private dining experience or using the nanny services. It is so easy to get used to this lifestyle that when you lock up and leave to return to London, you’ll be wondering where your meet and greet is, not to mention that cool glass of rum punch.

lu x u r y l o n d o n .c o.u k

Port Ferdinand

Apartment 701 at Port Ferdinand

 Need to know  • 1,155 ultra-high-net-worth individuals live in the Caribbean • 67 per cent of these have relocated from another country • Barbados has double taxation agreements with 34 countries and 11 in the pipeline • More than 71 per cent of visitors are from Anglophone countries • Barbados has year-round sunshine portferdinand.com, 0800 086 8662 (+1 246 272 2000) stpetersbaybarbados.com, 0800 097 0847 (+1 246 419 9601)

Vantage | 121


Cumberland Mansions Mansions W1H W1H £2,650,000 £2,650,000 Cumberland Cumberland Cumberland Mansions Mansions W1H W1H £2,650,000 £2,650,000 A recently refurbished three-bedroom lateral apartment, located close to the wide open spaces of Hyde Park. EPC=D A AArecently recently recentlyrefurbished refurbished refurbishedthree-bedroom three-bedroom three-bedroomlateral lateral lateralapartment, apartment, apartment,located located locatedclose close closeto to tothe the thewide wide wideopen open openspaces spaces spacesof of ofHyde Hyde HydePark. Park. Park.EPC=D EPC=D EPC=D Marylebone Sales: 020 7935 1775 sales.mar@marshandparsons.co.uk Marylebone Marylebone Sales: 020 7935 1775 sales.mar@marshandparsons.co.uk MaryleboneSales: Sales:020 0207935 79351775 1775 sales.mar@marshandparsons.co.uk sales.mar@marshandparsons.co.uk

Radnor Road Road NW6 NW6 £1,895,000 £1,895,000 Radnor Radnor Radnor Road Road NW6 NW6 £1,895,000 £1,895,000 An impressive three-bedroom Victorian terraced house, set on one of Queen’s Park premier roads. Freehold. EPC=F An impressive three-bedroom Victorian terraced house, set on one of Queen’s Park premier roads. Freehold. EPC=F An Animpressive impressivethree-bedroom three-bedroomVictorian Victorianterraced terracedhouse, house,set seton onone oneof ofQueen’s Queen’sPark Parkpremier premierroads. roads.Freehold. Freehold.EPC=F EPC=F Queen’s Park Sales: 020 7624 4513 sales.qpk@marshandparsons.co.uk Queen’s Park Sales: 020 7624 4513 sales.qpk@marshandparsons.co.uk


York Street Street W1H W1H £1,750,000 £1,750,000 York York York Street Street W1H W1H £1,750,000 £1,750,000 A beautiful two-bedroom townhouse, ideally positioned for the amenities of Marylebone. Freehold. EPC=C A AAbeautiful beautiful beautifultwo-bedroom two-bedroom two-bedroomtownhouse, townhouse, townhouse,ideally ideally ideallypositioned positioned positionedfor for forthe the theamenities amenities amenitiesof of ofMarylebone. Marylebone. Marylebone.Freehold. Freehold. Freehold.EPC=C EPC=C EPC=C Marylebone Sales: 020 7935 1775 sales.mar@marshandparsons.co.uk Marylebone Marylebone MaryleboneSales: Sales: Sales:020 020 0207935 7935 79351775 1775 1775 sales.mar@marshandparsons.co.uk sales.mar@marshandparsons.co.uk sales.mar@marshandparsons.co.uk

Prowse Place Place NW1 NW1 £1,175,000 £1,175,000 Prowse Prowse Prowse Place Place NW1 NW1 £1,175,000 £1,175,000 A unique three-bedroom house arranged over three floors, located in the heart of Camden Town. Freehold. EPC=B AAunique unique three-bedroom house arranged over three floors, located in the heart of Camden Town. Freehold. EPC=B A uniquethree-bedroom three-bedroomhouse housearranged arrangedover overthree threefloors, floors,located locatedin inthe theheart heartof ofCamden CamdenTown. Town.Freehold. Freehold.EPC=B EPC=B Camden Sales: 020 7244 2200 sales.cam@marshandparsons.co.uk Camden Camden CamdenSales: Sales: Sales:020 020 0207244 7244 72442200 2200 2200 sales.cam@marshandparsons.co.uk sales.cam@marshandparsons.co.uk sales.cam@marshandparsons.co.uk


42, Conduit Street - London

FF_210x297 MAYFAIR PE16_s4.indd 1

03/03/16 11:13


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