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THE EMPEROR COLLECTION 3KG SCENTED CANDLE
10 66
23 16
Issue 62
Contents
10 | Keeping it Surreal
54
Up close with renowned fashion photographer Kristian Schuller as he showcases his best work
16 | The Golden Age of Haute Couture The evolution of an industry, from the dressmakers of the 17th century to Dior’s New Look
32 | Indian Summer The V&A celebrates the 25th anniversary of its Nehru Gallery with a Fabric of India exhibition
50
35 | Talk of the Town Discover why the red-bricked parade of Chiltern Street is the new destination for men’s fashion
50 | Behind the Seams Celebrated shoe designer Rupert Sanderson puts his best foot forward for AW15
66 | Dream Weaver Rosita Missoni on her latest Missoni Home line and the importance of a close-knit family
96 | Kimonos and Catwalks
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Join couturier Nicholas Oakwell on an inspirational, cherry blossom-filled trip to Japan
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regulars - 21 -
collection
- 29 -
spotlight
- 39 -
fashion & beauty
- 63 -
HOME & interiors
- 71 -
health & family
- 81 -
food & drink
- 89 -
the art of travel
- 101 -
property
editor's letter
SEPTEMBER 2015 / ISSUE 62 Editor Kari Colmans deputy Editor Lauren Romano Collection Editor Annabel Harrison Contributing Editors Richard Brown, Olivia Sharpe editorial assistant Ellen Millard Sub Editor Jasmine Phillips Senior Designer Daniel Poole Production Hugo Wheatley, Oscar Viney, Jamie Steele, Alice Ford Client Relationship Director Friday Dalrymple Executive Director Sophie Roberts General Manager Fiona Fenwick Managing Director Eren Ellwood Proudly published and printed in the UK by
From the editor Today, fashion photographers have become as iconic as their subjects. Terry O’Neill, Mario Testino, Nick Knight and Rankin – whose insights and images we have printed in these pages over the last couple of years – are celebrities in their own right, caught in the frame with the faces of the day as often as they’re in the studio, behind the camera. Paris-based, Romanian-born photographer Kristian Schuller’s name may not yet be as immediately familiar as the ones listed above, but his incredible perspective, first discovered by Isabella Blow, creates a long lasting impression. Kicking off our bi-annual style issue, we meet the man behind the lens and take a look at some of his most celebrated photographs, as collected in his recently released tome, Tales for Oskar (p. 10). While we have all grown accustomed to the consumer conveyor belt that defines the seasonal fashion cycle, ready-to-wear catwalks have only existed since the 1960s, when the original enfant terrible, Yves Saint Laurent, set out to popularise off-the-peg designs in an attempt to democratise fashion. In anticipation of her London Art Studies lecture on the subject, historian and author Amber Butchart reveals how the industry has evolved (p. 16).
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Closer to home, I speak to shoe designer and Tufnell Park resident Rupert Sanderson about honing his craft and the lure of a jaunty pom pom (p. 50); and Lauren Romano gets comfortable among the scatter cushions with red carpet favourite Marios Schwab as he turns his flair to the aqua kyoto terrace (p. 84). Elsewhere, Ellen Millard meets the nona of the design world, Rosita Missoni, who now heads up the brand’s interiors offering (p. 66). And before heading off on maternity leave for a new journey, leaving you in the very capable hands of Lauren Romano, I take a shopping break in New York (p. 92). Amongst other things, I’ll be looking forward to getting back into that Vince trouser suit before 2016.
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Kari Colmans Editor
On the cover Keeping it Surreal, p. 10 Parachute/ Tales for Oskar Model: Nadja Auermann / Viva Styling: Peggy Schuller
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Other titles by RWMG
KeepiSurreal ng it A student of Vivienne Westwood and a protégé of Isabella Blow, fashion photographer Kristian Schuller talks to Vantage about his latest tome Tales for Oskar
Der Kardinal / Tales for Oskar Model: Aluad Deng Anei
interview
R
omanian-born, Germanraised and New Yorkbased photographer Kristian Schuller likes to think outside the box. For the follow-up to his 2010 photography book 90 Days, One Dream, Schuller’s imagination has run riot. In his debut release, models hang from huge climbing frames rigged in the dusty Southern Californian desert; fast-forward to the recently published Tales for Oskar, and they brace themselves against the wind with giant parachutes billowing behind them, walk piglets and swing from an ornate ceiling by gymnastic rings. You’ll be hard pressed to find a white cube studio set-up in Schuller’s outtakes – he’ll probably have painted the backdrop with black and white stripes, made the model pose with a zebra and given her a monochrome mohawk to match (see overleaf). Schuller certainly has a flair for the dramatic, not that this comes as a surprise. He studied photography at the University of Fine Arts Berlin and fashion design under the tutelage of Vivienne Westwood, who he credits with
passing on the sound words of wisdom that continue to underpin his work: “creativity comes from technique”. His technique, combined with a distinctive dose of energy and playfulness, famously caught the eye of fashion editor and muse Isabella Blow in 2003, who later introduced him to the sartorial circles of Condé Nast. Today Schuller’s work takes him to far-flung corners of both the world and his imagination. Tiptoeing the outlandish, there’s a whiff of childlike fantasy about Tales for Oskar, or as Schuller puts it in the book’s foreword: “the constantly reoccurring pleasure of building a new sandcastle”. His nomadic daydreams stem from childhood; immigrating to Germany from Romania when he was still young had a profound effect on Schuller. “The desire to pack my bags and set off to see the world was part of my good night fantasies from a very early age,” he admits. Back then a photo of a plane cruising over the New York skyline was enough to transport him from the classroom to the Big Apple. Now the one taking the photos, his escapism is realised from behind the lens, where he favours bold colours and theatrical staging inspired in part by his theatre director father. Schuller likes to set elaborate scenes for his models and spin a yarn. Here, he lets us in on his story…
Vantage | 11
As a child, I was always interested in fashion and photography. My father is a theatre man and moviemaker, my mother a teacher of art and textiles – they are happy that I chose such a serious profession! When I was 12 years old I was given my mother’s old sewing machine. Six months later I bought my first camera – an Agfa Optima.
While I was studying fashion design, I realised that I could be more of a storyteller by focusing on the images rather than creating wonderful outfits. In fashion design, you are a long distance runner; every collection takes six months and you have to be maniacal about the details. But as a photographer you are a bit like a taxi driver – you create the short cut. I never lost my passion for women and fashion; I just changed my point of view by becoming the photographer. Even from day one, for me, fashion photography has one subject: cherchez la femme!
There have been many memorable moments throughout my career: creating a circus in LA, being on the French Atlantic coast with parachutes or shooting wild animals in South Africa. There is always a lot of preparation before any shoot, no matter what it is. First you have to find the general idea, and then research it extensively. The next step is coming to a clear definition for each image. And after this comes all the technical preparation. Above, from left: Flowerheads/ Tales for Oskar, models: Nelly and Leslie Allen; Parachute, model: Nadja Auermann; Black and Blue / Animal Farm series, model: Charissa Du Plessis Opposite: Zebra / Animal Farm series, model: Charissa Du Plessis
Anything and everything can happen on set – especially when you are working on location. The question is how you deal with the situation and how you are able to improvise. At the end of the day, you must come home with something. In LA we built a huge 60ft pirate boat in the desert.
interview
“The question is how you deal with the situation and how you are able to improvise. At the end of the day, you must come home with something�
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“Many people in the industry have views on Instagram and the effects of social media on photography, but I just think we are in 2015 – it’s a part of our lives – take it or leave it! ”
interview
Heidi [Klum] was the captain plus we had half a dozen other models in big dresses. We were using a full cinema lighting set up to create a thunderstorm with wind, rain, dust and dirt. We were working with a crew of 60 people, shooting over two days, using both still photography and film.
With regards to Tales for Oskar, there is not a real favourite shoot per se; I love the energy of the Animal Farm series (pictured), the epic-ness of the parachutes and the elegance of the Flower Heads. For the image used on the Vantage cover, I was looking for a special theme for my upcoming shoot with German model and actress Nadja Auermann – epic and savage. I loved the speed cars in the desert with the drogue parachutes at the back.
What I love about my job is the possibility to combine my passion with earning a living.
This page, from top: Flowerheads / Tales for Oskar, models: Nelly and Leslie Nelson; Pool, model: Charissa Du Plessis; Pearl-Face, model: Kiana Neethling Opposite: Red Heart, model: Jac Jagaciak All images by Kristian Schuller
Many people in the industry have views on Instagram and the effects of social media on photography, but I just think we are in 2015 – it’s a part of our lives – take it or leave it! What effect do I think it will have on the future of photography? I will tell you in 10 years’ time. But I love taking selfies, even if they are not too good for the character…
Photography gets more and more important. There are super-important photography fairs like Paris Photo, Photo Basel and photography in Art Basel Miami Beach. For me, the world of fashion is my life. If that is art or not should be decided by art scientists.
Tales for Oskar by Kristian Schuller, Brandstätter Verlag, €39.90, kristianschuller.com Cover model: Charissa Du Plessis; Styling: Peggy Schuller
Vantage | 15
the
golden
age of
haute couture In anticipation of her London Art Studies lecture, leading fashion historian and author Amber Butchart reveals how the modern fashion industry has evolved, from the couturiers of the 17th century to Dior's 1950s New Look ďƒľ
FEATURE
Vantage | 17
W
hen we think of catwalk fashion, we imagine Kate Moss strutting down the runway in Marc Jacobs or Cara Delevingne walking for Chanel. And as the fashion world gears up for the unveiling of the spring/summer 2016 collections at London Fashion Week this month, we could be forgiven for thinking that the system we follow today has been set in stone for centuries. But the reality is that the ready-to-wear catwalks we eagerly follow have only been seen as the height of fashion since the 1960s – and even then it was considered somewhat shocking when the original enfant terrible, Yves Saint Laurent, set out to popularise off-the-peg designs in an attempt to democratise fashion. For the preceding 300 years the focus had been not on ready-made clothing, but on its elusive and luxurious older sister, haute couture. Translated roughly as ‘high sewing', haute couture was first given royal support from the French monarch, Louis XIV – the Sun King – in the late 17th century. Louis could be called the grandfather of fashion, as his reign saw the birth of the couture industry (the couturières’ trade guild was formed in 1675), and he also had an obsession with shoes, especially high heels that could show off his shapely calves. Arguably the first fashion advertising also took place at this time, with fledgling couturières dressing the wellknown ballerinas of the day (often thought of as the original supermodels) to gain greater exposure. Many of these designers were women, with grand-sounding names such as Madame Villeneuve and Madame Charpentier. From this moment fashion trends became indelibly associated with France. Successive rulers understood the importance of luxury textiles for the economy and encouraged industry growth. Those who think fashion is frivolous will be fascinated to discover that sometimes a rise in hemlines, or change in silhouette, can make history itself. Queen Marie Antoinette was another French monarch who brought attention to lavish clothing, for better or worse (her milliner and dressmaker Rose
Bertin was even dubbed her Minister of Fashion). Bertin was hugely influential over the trends of the French court. Her opulent creations became symbolic of the imbalance of wealth under the Ancien Régime, and while people starved and revolution drew closer, pamphleteers denounced Bertin as a ‘corrupt and corrupting maker of luxury goods’. When Marie Antoinette – herself a symbol of the excesses of aristocracy – was guillotined in 1793, Rose Bertin fled to London to avoid the Terror. By the time she returned to France, the upheaval had irrevocably changed fashion and paved the way for more egalitarian styles to gain favour. Regimes change and leaders come and go, but fashion remains eternal. It was in the 19th century that couture took its next step forward, and somewhat surprisingly the system as we recognise it today was kick-started by a British man named Charles Frederick Worth, who was born in Lincolnshire in 1825 and worked for various London textile mills. In 1845 he moved to Paris and branched out into his own business 13 years later. Luckily for Worth his foray into fashion occurred at the same time that the Second Empire in France was instated. Paris was once again an imperial capital and the subsequent flurry of state events and balls left many women in need of fine dressing, with the wife of Emperor Napoleon III, Empress Eugenie, setting the styles at court. Eugenie favoured Worth’s designs and her patronage was instrumental in his success. What was revolutionary about Worth was that he designed pieces seasonally; before he came onto the scene, women with means would employ a dressmaker to create items to their taste. In designing the garments himself, Worth dictated what was ‘good taste’ and essentially put the wheels in motion for the fashion system that remains with us today. Worth was the first designer to sew personal labels into bespoke garments, the first to prepare a collection in advance, and the first to display his wares using live models, making him the inventor of the modern catwalk. By the 20th century couture had reached a new apex. Christian Dior was instrumental in the shifting
FEATURE
Thankfully, once again, couture sales are on the rise, even though the number of international couture clients is expected to be only in the thousands. The haute couture industry in France maintains its rigorous standards, with its rules governed by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. The fashion houses that belong to the Chambre Syndicale (such as Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga and Lanvin) are reviewed annually and have to fulfill strict criteria – from keeping a full-time workshop in Paris with a minimum number of employees, to hand-construction and presenting twice-yearly collections. Despite its roots in the past, couture remains at the heart of fashion because couture is where trends begin. Assouline’s autumn release Dior: from Christian Dior to Raf Simons by Farid Chenoune, for example, celebrates Christian Dior’s sartorial legacy by documenting the signature silhouettes that made the couture house its name. Originally published on the occasion of the legendary couture house’s 60th anniversary, this new updated edition unveils original photography by Laziz Hamani, and unique, insightful words by fashion historian Farid Chenoune annotating Christian Dior and the house’s succeeding couturiers, from Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, and Gianfranco Ferré to John Galliano and Raf Simons, plus stunning photographs of celebrity models from Suzy Parker to Kate Moss, each immortalised in Dior by the greatest fashion photographers of their time. Meanwhile, over on the high street, the couture designer’s original vision, first glimpsed on the catwalks and then flashed around the world by the media, gets filtered down through subsequent readyto-wear shows, to end up on the racks of Topshop or Whistles. But couture is also where fashion and art meet in its purest form; it is where the dream-weaving happens – the embodiment of unattainable beauty that is the holy grail for fashion creators and followers everywhere. It is theatre, glamour, opulence – the epitome of fashion itself.
Couture remains at the heart of fashion because couture is where trends begin
styles post World War Two. After wartime rationing, the yards and yards of fabric used in the designs of his first collection, launched in 1947, (full skirts, waspy waists, soft shoulders) was a refreshing change. Swiftly dubbed the ‘New Look’ by fashion journalists, it revolutionised the way women dressed and placed Paris firmly back at the epicentre of the fashionable world. Over the next decade, couturiers reigned supreme in Paris and London, from Balenciaga and Jacques Fath to Givenchy and Hardy Amies. This was a decade that Dior himself labelled the Golden Age – an era that fused high glamour with high fashion and set standards the world over. But the number of heiresses with money to spend on a bespoke wardrobe inevitably dwindled, and the demand for hand-crafted goods hit a record low in the face of fast fashion and faster profit.
The Golden Age of Haute Couture, part of the London Art Studies lecture series, takes place at the Bulgari Hotel on the 17 September. For tickets and more information, visit londonartstudies.com Dior: From Christian Dior to Raf Simons is available from September, £165, assouline.com
Opening page: Models posing in new Christian Dior collection. Photo by Loomis Dean/The LIFE Picture Collection/Getty Images Left and above: All images © Laziz Hamani for Dior, courtesy of Dior: From Christian Dior to Raf Simons
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COLLECTION
Toy boy Women are leading the way when it comes to the ‘boyfriend trend’ that has swept through the fashion industry of late. Whether it’s jeans, shirts or blazers, womenswear has adopted a more masculine direction and now it's even borrowing looks from men’s accessories, hence the ‘boyfriend watch’. This month, Chanel presents its own luxury interpretation with BOY.FRIEND. The timepiece cleverly strikes the gender balance with its strong, clean lines and unfussy aesthetic (available in 18-karat beige gold with or without diamonds or in 18-karat white gold with diamonds), while still retaining a certain femininity thanks to the octagonal shape, inspired by the No. 5 perfume bottle and the Place Vendôme – all of which makes for the perfect boyfriend. If only we could say the same about our other halves… BOY.FRIEND, from £8,100, available from September in Chanel boutiques, chanel.com
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Jewellery news By Olivia Sharpe
Legends of the hall
Wild at heart Commemorating its 240th anniversary this year, Mappin & Webb’s new Wildfell collection is an ode to its heritage. Graceful, organic lines have been presented in a 17-piece collection of silver and gold rings, necklaces and bracelets, capturing the rolling landscapes that define the quintessentially English jeweller’s Dorset roots. The Dorset brooch, revived from the brand’s archives, was creative director Elizabeth Galton’s main inspiration and was the same brooch given as a wedding present to Queen Mary from the county of Dorset. It was later passed down to HM The Queen, who first wore it on her wedding day in 1947.
It is our firm belief that every woman, no matter what their age, should own a pair of hoop earrings. And who better to turn to than jeweller Dinny Hall, who for the past 30 years has turned this jewellery box staple into her trademark design? To celebrate this milestone, Hall is launching a new collection in September called Hall of Hoops, which encompasses a 10-piece edit of her favourite hoop earrings spanning three decades, ranging from daytime styles to statement pieces. “As a designer, the hoop offers a never-ending opportunity to be re-invented,” Hall comments. “Although this collection looks back at my heritage, the range has been curated for the contemporary woman and her style habits.” Hall of Hoops, exclusive to Liberty London. Available from September 2015, dinnyhall.com
Wildfell collection £85 – £2,450 mappinandwebb.com
Cosmic girl
King of the gemstones
Given the astronomical success of their collaboration last year, it seemed only prudent for jeweller Azza Fahmy to continue her relationship with Matthew Williamson. This time around, the eponymous jewellery brand gave an exclusive preview of its latest celestialinspired collection, Cosmos, at the British fashion designer’s AW15 LFW show. Designed by Fahmy’s daughter and the house’s head of design, Amina Ghali, the 18-piece hand-crafted range is based on the themes of life, space and eternity. It includes the Key of Life symbol, which has been translated into a ring and pendant, and the silhouette of a crescent moon and stars recast into a pair of earrings with diamond accents.
After witnessing a decline, rubies are coming back into fashion as modern jewellers explore new ways to showcase the famously dubbed ‘king of the gemstones’. Despite being better known for its emeralds – producing 20 per cent of the world’s supply – Gemfields has chosen to showcase the rarest Mozambican rubies (having recently acquired a mine there) in its latest campaign, starring actress and brand ambassador Mila Kunis. The gemstones have been set into contemporary designs, such as the Dune bangle by Georg Jensen. Other jewellers contributing designs include Fabergé and Spinelli Kilcollin.
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Poison Ivy Discover the darker side of nature this autumn with Gothic-inspired jewellery
8 9 10 1 Pineta gold-tone multi-stone necklace, £300, Rosantica, net-a-porter.com 2 18-karat black gold two-finger emerald and diamond ring, POA, Sutra Jewels, sutrajewels.com 3 Aigrette necklace, £658, Shourouk, farfetch.com 4 18-karat white gold, diamond and emerald Aerial earrings, £27,950, Shaun Leane, shaunleane.com 5 18-karat yellow gold, black enamel, emerald and diamond ring, £15,100, Amrapali, 55 Beauchamp Place, SW3 6 Haze long finger ring, £13,283, Stephen Webster, farfetch.com 7 14-karat gold, tourmaline and diamond ring, £2,180, Brooke Gregson, net-a-porter.com 8 Ruthenium-plated Swarovski crystal cuff, POA, Gucci, net-a-porter.com 9 18-karat oxidised white gold, black diamond and emerald earrings, £10,265, Carla Amorim, Talisman Gallery, 020 7201 8582 10 Beaded flower necklace, £183, Night Market, farfetch.com 11 Lady Stardust Crystal Haze Bolt green agate earrings, £8,150, Stephen Webster, stephenwebster.com 12 18-karat yellow gold, emerald, ruby and diamond bracelet, £745, Amrapali, as before 13 Cyclos 18-karat gold diamond ring, £3,050, Elena Votsi, net-a-porter.com 14 Magnipheasant black diamond pavé earrings, £8,150, Stephen Webster, as before
Vantage | 23
Africa
Out of
Your next adventure is set to be a stylish one as Ralph Lauren expands its RL67 Safari Chronometer timepiece collection. We discover the designer’s enduring love for the great outdoors
“T
he romance of safari is a dream that I have returned to many times,” says Ralph Lauren, whose life-long love affair with the great outdoors has influenced his eponymous fashion house’s collections for 20 years. Today, Lauren’s signature style boasts a fusion of a bohemian sense of adventure and timeless elegance. From the cinchedin waistlines of Lauren’s safari jackets to rugged leather goods, the designer’s fascination with both the practical and the glamorous aspects of travel are evident. “When I started out as a designer, I dreamed of going to Africa, on safari,” says Lauren. And perhaps most naturally aligned with this sentiment are the new models of the RL67 Safari Chronometer timepiece range – a nostalgic return to Lauren’s first 1984 Safari collection, when he fused vintage design with a contemporary and utilitarian look. Made with a deliberately aged steel casing, each hand-decorated movement in the new wristwatch series expresses a modest but beautifully crafted tool intended for daily use. The pieces indicate Lauren’s own feelings towards the spirit of travel: “It is an adventure, a world of refinement set against a rugged and powerful landscape”. Every detail has been carefully chosen by Lauren, from the Swissmade mechanisms to the dark green
alligator or faded olive canvas straps, each of which pays tribute to a traditional explorer’s attire. It’s clear that Lauren has taken his personal passions and translated them into watch form – as the chronometers present a relaxed elegance befitting of his genuine interest in adventure, travel and the great outdoors. “Safari is about living the life you want and pushing yourself beyond your limitations,” says Lauren. “It’s the dream of experiencing the wild and seeing the farthest reaches of the world.” RL67 Safari Chronometers, from a selection, Ralph Lauren (ralphlaurenwatches.com)
Left: Rl67 Safari Chronometer with khaki dial (available 39mm, £2,320 and 45mm, £2,490) Opposite page: Rl67 Safari Chronometer with black dial, 45mm, £2,320 (also available in 39mm, £2,150)
COLLECTION
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Watch news By Richard Brown
Breitling honours the few Reginald Mitchell designed the Spitfire while dying of cancer. He worked on it around the clock, finishing it just before he died. “Just the sort of bloody silly name they would choose,” he said, on learning that the RAF had called his aircraft 'Spitfire'. Clearly Mitchell embodied the sort of stoicism that typified the men who took to the skies in his invention during the Battle of Britain, whose 75th anniversary Breitling has marked with a special edition Navitmer. Launched at North Weald Airfield in front of the Battle of Britain Memorial Fund Squadron, who had just completed a flypast over Buckingham Palace (where six surviving members of the Few were having lunch with HM The Queen), the timepiece will raise money for the RAF Benevolent Fund – a charity that provides support to serving and former members of the RAF, their partners and dependants. The Navitimer Battle of Britain features commemorative emblems on both its 3 and 9 o’clock sub-dials, and is engraved with the anniversary crest on its case-back. Inside, is the Breitling-produced Caliber 01, a self-winding chronograph certified to meet the highest standards of precision by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute, or COSC. The timepiece is a fitting tribute given that the RAF equipped its World War II aircraft with onboard Breitling flight chronographs. The Navitimer Battle of Britain limited edition series £6,480 on a strap, £7,490 on a bracelet Breitling, 130 Bond Street, W1S
“If anybody ever tells you anything about an aeroplane which is so bloody complicated you can't understand it, take it from me: it's all balls” – R. J. Mitchell, Spitfire designer and the First of the Few
collection
Reduced to size Only two or three of these watches are crafted a week in Germany's Nomos Atelier. A brand favoured by design and architecture-types, the watchmaker has just made its attractive Lambda range available in a smaller 39mm size. Supremely classic, this example comes with tempered blue hands, which look great against the white, silverplated dial and rose gold case. Like all Nomos watches, the Lambda does its bit for German watch-making by coming with a movement that is engineered in-house. Who said it was just the Swiss who made watches? Lambda 39, £10,800, Nomos Glashütte nomos-glashuette.com
A helping hand A watch from a fashion brand, but certainly not a 'fashion watch', inside Dior's Chiffre Rouge C05 you'll find Zenith's Elite calibre 682 – a super reliable, automatic movement with a 50-hour power reserve. The timepiece debuted in 2004 and has now been updated with its first small complication – a second time zone whose hand is adjusted by pressing the watch's pushbutton. Only 100 will be produced. Chiffre Rouge C05, £5,500, Dior dior.com
One to watch
Allun Michaels, store manager at Fraser Hart in Brent Cross, selects his watch of the month:
“To celebrate the Portugieser’s 75th anniversary, IWC has revised its range, and the big news was its first Annual Calendar complication. It displays the month, date and day and the watch only needs to be adjusted once per year. We love it with the blue dial.” Portugieser Annual Calendar, £15,900 (steel), £23,500 (18-karat red gold) IWC Fraser Hart, Brent Cross, 020 8732 8459 BrentCross@fraserhart.co.uk @FHBrentCross
A Wempe welcome Wempe London invites Vantage readers to an exclusive Patek Philippe exhibition between 17 August and 7 September. Managing director Lynn Schroeder presents a rare opportunity to view many of the new models launched at this year's Baselworld, alongside some other special novelties. Highlights will include the ladies’ Calatrava Ref. 4897G in white gold and the men’s Annual Calendar Ref. 5396G. See you there. 17 August – 7 September Wempe, 43-44 New Bond Street, W1S
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EAT – SLEEP –WALK – PLAY Stylish products and accessories which fuse effortlessly with your home For the dog less ordinary
www.hugoandotto.com
spotlight
Window shopping As part of Regent Street Fashion and Design Month, 17 RIBA architects have been let loose on shop fronts along the road’s mile of style. The regular mannequins have gone out of the window in place of engaging architectural installations. At Longchamp, designers from LDVC have dipped into the archive of heritage totes to create a playful mobile-cum-chandelier; Shiro Studio has installed a pleated mirror wall over at Armani Exchange that draws inspiration from a novel by Italian Noble Prize winner Luigi Pirandello; while scales festooned with macaroons will provide the focal point of Hotel Café Royal’s display created by Citizens Design Bureau. Keep your eyes peeled for other eye-catching designs popping up at Hamleys, Levi’s and Kiehl’s, as well as special shopping events to coincide with the month-long celebration. 7-27 September, Regent Street The Hackett window from last year's Fashion and Design Month © Agnese Sanvito
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EDITOR'S PICK
Lost and foundling Once a place where Victorian women sought refuge with their babies born out of wedlock, the Foundling Museum is opening an exhibition about ‘fallen’ females, mythologised through art and literature as a warning to those who strayed from the marital bed. With paintings by Dante Gabriel Rossetti, Richard Redgrave, and George Frederic Watts, alongside the written petitions of women applying to the hospital, the exhibition will bring their voices to life.
Local news
The Fallen Woman, 25 September – 3 January, The Foundling Museum, 40 Brunswick Square, WC1N, foundlingmuseum.org.uk
By Ellen Millard
Design right To celebrate this year’s London Design Festival (19-27 September), Alfies Antique Market is running a day of events to highlight the market and the surrounding area as a destination for antique and vintage wares. Talks, exhibitions and workshops will be held during the festival, including an upholstery demonstration by Emilia and Luis from Thirteen Upholstery and a tour of Church Street by antiques dealer Leon Young. What’s more, the market will be holding an Open House weekend from 18-20 September, during which founder Bennie Gray will discuss the history of the prestigious building. Church Street Design District Trail, 24 September, Alfies Antiques, 13-25 Church Street, NW8, alfiesantiques.com
spotlight
Puppy love Canine-enthusiasts should head down to Primrose Hill on 5 September for the poochthemed festival, PupAid, an event raising awareness against puppy farming. The charity will be joined by celebrity dog owners – previous guests have included Ricky Gervais, Elle MacPherson, Liam Gallagher, and David Gandy – for boutique stalls, vegan food, acoustic music by Young Guns, and a host of dog show classes such as the Waggiest Tail, Best Rescue, Child’s Best Friend, and Coolest Dog in London. 5 September, PupAid, Primrose Hill, pupaid.org
Dearie me Back for the second year running, feminist festival Calm Down, Dear returns to Camden People’s Theatre this September. Louise Orwin stars in a new show about women in movies; Racheal Ofori gives a satirical enactment about black female stereotypes, and performances from a host of renowned female artists offer up the best in theatre, comedy, cabaret and dance. 16 September – 11 October, Camden People’s Theatre, 58-60 Hampstead Road, NW1, cptheatre.co.uk
Above, from L-R: George Elgar Hicks, Mother and Child, 1873 ® Manchester Art Gallery, Bridgeman Images; Breakfasting Out, 1859, Robert Dowling, Museum of London; Frederick Walker, The Lost Path, ®The Makins Collection, Bridgeman Images
“Tyburn Gallery is at the forefront of African and international contemporary art” – Emma Menell, Tyburn Gallery founder Work of art
Going for Goold
Marylebone will welcome the new Tyburn Gallery on 17 September, a space dedicated to international contemporary art, using Africa as Edson Chagas, Oikonomos, 2011, a starting point. courtesy Tyburn Gallery Showcasing both established and new talent from across the globe, the first exhibition has been created by contemporary curator Kim Stern, and will feature Athi Patra-Ruga, Mohau Modisakeng, Joël Andrianomearisoa, and Edson Chages, among others, in a group exhibit entitled Broken English.
Artistic director Rupert Goold brings Medea to life in a new production showing at the Almeida Theatre this autumn. Adapted by feminist writer Rachel Cusk, Kate Fleetwood performs at Almeida for the first time as the title role. Part of the theatre’s Greek season, the production sees Medea cope with a disparaging marriage in a male-dominated world, bringing forth questions of gender politics and what it means to be a woman and a wife.
Broken English, 18 September – 28 October, Tyburn Gallery, St Christopher’s Place, W1U, tyburngallery.com
25 September –14 November, Almeida Theatre, Almeida Street, N1, almeida.co.uk Photography by David Stewart
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I
Manish Arora, Ensemble, SS15 © Manish Arora
n 2003, the Bollywood blockbuster Devdas picked up the BAFTA award for Best Foreign Language Film. The most expensive Bollywood movie ever made, it merely added to a string of earlier gongs, both national and international, that the celebrated production had racked up in its trophy cabinet. Among several acclaimed performances was that of actress Madhuri Dixit. Dressed in traditional Indian costume, swathed in layers of vibrant silk, brocades and sarees, her photo was everywhere from posters to billboards. One of her dresses, decorated by hand with sequins and mirrors was so heavy (weighing in at 30kg) that Dixit could only wear it for publicity stills and a lighter version was designed for her to wear while filming scenes. The original dress, the creation of designers Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla, will be on show in the V&A’s new Fabric of India exhibition, placed on a seated mannequin which had to be specially designed to bear the full weight of the costume. But while the dress is shown as an emblem of the pride the country has always taken over the centuries in
its traditional handmade costume skills, the early decades of the 20th century in which Devdas was set, were actually a period when the Indian textile industry was under severe pressure from cheaper foreign imports. In former times the beauty of Indian textiles, from chintz-patterned robes and dresses to wall hangings and bed covers, had been much valued through large parts of the world. The show will display three items that show that Indians were exporting fabrics as early as the 3rd century AD. But European industrialisation killed demand, as cheap imitation versions of India’s cloth could be made at a lower cost by machine in the mills of northern England. This cloth was then exported back to India, where it flooded the market and blew a hole in a once thriving national textile economy. But what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger and Indian craftsmen refused to roll over. Textiles suddenly became a symbol of national pride and identity as locals grew increasingly restless with British colonial rule. In the 1930s, Gandhi stepped up the calls for Indians to stop buying foreign goods and support home-made products, urging people to spin and weave their own yarn and fabric by hand, producing a cloth known as khadi. Even today some contemporary clothing designs in India still use khadi cloth, reflecting its retained symbolic potency. Garments made from khadi will be on show in the
Summer
Indian
As the V&A prepares to celebrate the 25th anniversary of its Nehru Gallery dedicated to South Asian art, Jack Watkins heads to its latest exhibition, Fabric of India
Manish Arora, Butterfly Dress, 2008 © Manish Arora
spotlight
Madhuri Dixit in costume for the film Devdas, Mumbai, Maharashlra, 2002
exhibition, which will also demonstrate the way the sari – the traditional dress of India – has been embraced in recent years by contemporary designers seeking to incorporate tradition into something fresh and fashionable. Pieces by several key designers still using handmade techniques can be spotted among the line-up. Among these will be the works of Manish Arora, the New Delhi-based designer who often incorporates traditional Indian craft methods like embroidery and beading in his riotously colourful catwalk concoctions, and Rahul Mishra. Mishra was the first Indian designer to win the International Woolmark Prize, awarded at Milan’s annual Fashion Week in 2014. Handmade artisanship has become one of the keystones of his approach to design. Rajesh Pratap Singh is another contemporary Indian fashion designer with an international profile who has also involved himself with domestic initiatives to encourage and perpetuate traditional design methods. One of the exhibits, a woman’s jacket from 2010 that fuses ancient techniques with a modern aesthetic, reflects the fact that this approach isn’t always plain sailing. The design used a traditional technique that involved applying multiple layers of dye with specially carved blocks to create a repeat pattern. But Singh’s design, which incorporated a skull motif, raised issues. Jacket and petticoat,
In the 1930s, Gandhi stepped up the calls for Indians to stop buying foreign goods and support homemade products
dyed cotton lined with linen, Coromandel Coast for export to Europe c.1750 © Victoria & Albert Museum
He struggled to find a craftsman willing to carve the blocks, owing to the fact that many Muslim artisans had a prohibition against creating representational figures and were concerned by the skull’s association with death. The solution lay in using digital printing to create a pattern that still retained the reference to traditional block printing. For those wanting to trace the heritage of Indian fabric, the show tracks back to earlier days when wealth, power and religious devotion were expressed through the lavish display of textiles. A 16th century Islamic talismanic shirt is inscribed with verses from the Quran in ink and gold paint. A Mughal hunting jacket dating back to the 1620s is densely decorated with silk embroidery against a silk satin background with a repeating pattern of animal and plant life. Incredibly, when the garment was first offered to the V&A in 1929 it was rejected as “an interesting piece, but hardly the kind of thing we should care to recommend for purchase”. On a more modest scale, there are also bandanas; tie-dyed silk handkerchiefs from Madras and Bengal, which were sold in thousands as neck cloths for sailors, agricultural labourers and other workers throughout the world in the 18th and 19th centuries. Fabric of India will be the first major exhibition to explore the processes, history, and politics associated with handmade Indian textiles through the centuries, and it has been a long time in the making. The exhibits go far beyond clothing – one of the centerpieces is a huge floral patterned tent used by the notorious Tipu Sultan, ruler of the kingdom of Mysore. On loan from Powis Castle, having fallen into British hands when Tipu Sultan was defeated at the Siege of Seringapatam in 1799, it is one of many eye-catching artifacts in an intriguing show. The Fabric of India, supported by Good Earth India, with thanks to Experion and Nirav Modi, is at the V&A from 3 October – 10 January. It is part of the V&A’s autumn India Festival, featuring exhibitions, displays, events and digital initiatives. vam.ac.uk/fabricofindia
Woman's jacket designed by Rajesh Pratap Singh, Delhi, AW10/11 © Victoria & Albert Museum
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paris / sepTeMBer 4-8, 2015 / january 22-26, 2016 paris nord ViLLepinTe
Born and raised WiTH Maison&oBjeT peTiTe friTure, aT M&o sinCe 2010
Maison&oBjeT is an inTernaTionaL inTerior design and HoMe deCoraTion fair gaTHering professionaLs WorLdWide four TiMes a year in paris, singapore and MiaMi BeaCH
WWW.Maison-oBjeT.CoM
info@safisaLons.fr safi organisaTion, a suBsidiary of aTeLiers d’arT de franCe and reed exposiTions franCe / Trade onLy / design © Be-poLes - iMage © françois CoQuereL
Spotlight
Talk of the Town As Chiltern Street welcomes Club Monaco into the fold, Ellen Millard discovers why the red-bricked parade is the new destination for men’s fashion
T
here’s a buzz about Chiltern Street and, for the first time in a long time, it’s not because of a celebrity sighting at the Firehouse. While for some not in the know, a trip to Chiltern Street would seem redundant without getting a peek at Bradley Cooper tucking into Nuno Mendes’ chargrilled iberico pork. But attention has now turned to the opposite side of the road, where Ralph Lauren’s Canadian export Club Monaco set up shop this summer. A stone’s throw from Marylebone High Street, Chiltern Street is famous for its independent boutiques – its menswear stores in particular have been steadily gaining a cult-like following as an influx of new labels
Illustration © Mai Osawa
continue to arrive. “One is aware that it is much more stylish now,” jewellery designer Rachel Sweeney from Cox and Power at number 10 agrees. “Chiltern Street has got quite a strong menswear focus, and a far more masculine feel.” Named ‘London’s Coolest Street’ in 2013 by Condé Nast Traveller, it would seem the distinctive shopping destination is after the title once more. In the wake of its success, some of the owners of Chiltern Street’s most popular destination boutiques take a trip down memory lane and open up about their history with the much-loved road, the impact of Chiltern Firehouse and how the street is becoming a sartorial mecca for menswear. Move over Savile Row.
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General Leather Company
Trunk
“We opened in 1971 in Wardour Street, and were soon looking to invest in a retail unit. Chiltern Street was different then; the only other retail shop was Grey Flannel. Five or six years ago the Fire Station closed; that was pretty sad, because we quite liked the hustle and bustle, but Chiltern Firehouse has put us on the map. Years ago people would ask where we were, and we’d say ‘Chiltern Street’, and they would just be blank. Now, everybody knows. Chiltern Firehouse has brought footfall to the street, and that’s what every retailer wants. Although there are a lot of menswear shops, we’re not in direct competition because we’ve all got our own unique look. It’s still dear old Chiltern Street to us, as it’s always been.”
“We were interested in this street for years, and we felt it suited us. There are quite a lot of menswear shops so it’s become a bit of a destination for men’s fashion. I think it’s one of the nicest streets in London. So many places all over the world have the same brands, so it’s good to have independent outlets. It’s not a very busy street, but that suits us fine. It’s a bit of a double-edged sword, because there’s not many people walking up and down it, which means there aren’t many people walking into the shop, but we’ve got a lot of regular customers.”
Peter Goodall, owner USP: Go bespoke at Britain’s oldest maker of leather clothes
Paul Simons, owner USP: The best Ivy League clothing in London
John Simons
“I moved to England 10 years ago, and when I was planning to open a shop it was always going to be in Marylebone. Chiltern Street was one of the streets I had my eye on from the beginning. It’s just a very aesthetically nice street. It’s very central, obviously, but it’s also very quiet, which suits my needs. I actually met André Balazs in 2009 when he had just acquired the old Fire Station, so I knew that he was going to turn it into a hotel. I knew what André had done in New York with the Mercer, and he had put the area on the map, which Chiltern Firehouse has now done as well. It all works very nicely together.” Mats Klingberg, owner USP: Head here for contemporary blazers and elegant knitwear by Comme Des Garcons and Nigel Cabourne
Spotlight
Sunspel Grey Flannel “When we started we were the only fashion shop on the street. There was one art gallery and a computer shop, but not much else. Slowly it became more fashionable. Now, more people are finding us, so that’s quite exciting. And, of course, there’s a couple of men’s shops on the street as well now. We’re all completely different which is quite nice. Our customers like to come back to us because they can’t find the same elsewhere. We actually have some customers who have been with us from the beginning, which is really quite something because we’re 41 years old. My favourite thing about Chiltern Street is the atmosphere. It’s just a little corner of London that’s sort of special, and people love it.” Richard Froomberg, owner USP: Chiltern Street’s oldest resident stocks Giorgio Armani, as well as its own exclusive line
Illustration © Mai Osawa
“Marylebone felt like a natural home for Sunspel, with its mix of independent boutiques, food shops and restaurants. At the time, there wasn’t much on Chiltern Street itself, however the surrounding area felt very quintessentially English and had a real neighbourhood feeling to it. Our arrival coincided with the opening of the Chiltern Firehouse, which brought a lot of attention to the area and subsequently many other independent businesses started to open up. The street has become much better known due to the vast number of celebrities visiting the Firehouse. It’s great for business as many of their discerning clientele visit the shops while they are staying there. The street has more of a fashion edge to it now... but it's the mix of new and old that really defines the street.” Nicholas Brooke, CEO USP: The first brand to introduce boxer shorts to the UK in 1947, head to Sunspel for polo shirts as worn by Daniel Craig in the James Bond films
Club Monaco “Chiltern Street is a beautiful street with a great history, and full of stores we admire. We are proud to be alongside menswear institutions such as John Simons, Grey Flannel, Sunspel and Trunk. Chiltern Street has a special atmosphere, which seems carefully and organically curated towards the London gentleman; the food, drink, art and people are all fantastic. As a lifestyle brand we can only hope to elevate that atmosphere further. You can be educated in fashionforward trends, understand history and vintage design, while enjoying a great coffee at Monocle Café, walking past specialist music stores in a really friendly neighbourhood. It offers so much as a menswear destination.” Rob French, store manager USP: This second menswear London outpost offers its own line as well as pieces from Scosha, Cause & Efect and Lotuff
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To the point Jimmy Choo's Sandra Choi turned to ballet for inspiration when it came to designing her AW15 shoe collection, referencing the juxtaposing imagery of the ethereal freedom of dance and the confines of binding ribbons. Expect contrasting colour palettes of ballet pink and moodier hues of teal, red, cinnamon and black python, fashioned with buckles, leather ties, organza bows and brushed gold cuff details. This season also heralds the birth of a new rounded toe shape for Jimmy Choo, which can be found on a number of models from the classic stiletto-heeled pump to booties, while cute velvet Gene flats feature en pointe toes. jimmychoo.com
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Fashion news By Ellen Millard
Close knit As we wave goodbye to the summer weather, nothing brings more comfort than the thought of Barrie’s feather-soft cashmere to keep us warm in the coming months. Crafting its illustrious wool into contemporary designs, the Scottish house presents Shetland sweaters, sweet floral T-shirts and light-weight ponchos in a seventies-inspired collection of cosy knits. From £163, 47 Burlington Arcade, W1J barrie.com
Sole mate
In the bag
The humble ballet shoe has had a makeover courtesy of a new capsule collection from French Sole and Liberty. To celebrate the prestigious department store’s 140th anniversary, the Sloaney shoe brand has fused Liberty’s famous Phoebe, Betsy and Emma prints with red, pink and blue ballet pumps. What’s more, the two will fuse more permanently in October with a Ballet Bar taking up shop on the third floor.
New for AW15, Céline has released a limited-edition collection of four bags hand-crafted from calfskin. Available in warm shades of tan, taupe, khaki and burgundy, these autumnal-toned totes are made using the brand's traditional methods. The timeless bags join Céline’s signature Belt, Trotteur and Ring bags, which have been reworked in new colour ways for the coming season.
From £85, liberty.co.uk
EDITOR'S PICK
From £1,100, 103 Mount Street, W1K, celine.com
fashion
Pure and simple
Layer up
With the new season comes new trends and with new trends comes the trouble of deciphering the one-hitwonders from the wardrobe staples. If there’s one thing we can be sure of, a classic white shirt will never go out of fashion. London-based brand Belle Epoque offers Italianmade basics in contemporary styles, giving a unique twist to a timeless design that will see you through this season, and many more to come.
When the office aircon is colder than the North Pole and you’re wearing a sundressscarf combo, the prospect of AW15 is a welcome one, and all the more so when the collections are as covetable as Belstaff’s. Chunky knits and leather jackets make up the brand’s new offering, which blends contrasting textures, mismatched lengths and chic monochromatic colour palettes. We approve.
£185, la-belle-epoque.co.uk
Going polo
From £150 belstaff.co.uk
Asprey has pulled it out of the bag once again with its AW15 line. Taking cues from artist Anselm Kiefer and photographer Horst, the range sees rich autumnal colours complement contrasting leathers and skins. Along with its signature totes in new shades, Asprey has introduced more styles to its renowned collection. The Polo Bag is a nod to the brand’s equine heritage in a simple crossbody style crafted from nubuck bullskin and full grain bullskin, while the new 1798 Pochette comes complete with the signature 1781 handbag lock and a removable shoulder strap. From £1,700, 167 New Bond Street, W1S asprey.com
Anchors aweigh Naomi Campbell joins fellow models Natasha Poly, Isabeli Fontana and Liu Wen as the face of La Perla’s Atelier collection, a celebratory range in honour of the brand’s 60th anniversary. Shot by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggot, the campaign debuts the AW15 collection, which showcases La Perla's provocative style. Following on from SS15, the anchor remains a key shape for the new season, echoed in the anchor swimsuit (pictured) donned by Campbell. From £250 for a set laperla.com
Moves like Jagger Mulberry begins this season afresh with a new creative director, Johnny Coca. Georgia May Jagger sports the first line under Coca’s guidance in the AW15 campaign, wearing the Seventies-inspired collection in images shot by Alasdair McLellan in the sunny streets of Chelsea. Jagger shows off the Roxette (pictured) and Mini Jamie bags, new for AW15, as well as the iconic Bayswater in an autumnal burgundy shade. Roxette bag £1,100, mulberry.com
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CUTE PASTELS Coat, £2,335, Max Mara, 21 Old Bond Street, W1S; Jumper, £235, DKNY, 27 Old Bond Street, W1S; Bag, £375, Coach, uk.coach.com; Sunglasses, £345, Holly Fulton for Cutler and Gross, cutlerandgross.com
P laying
the Field
Mix and match your look with winter coats in warm pastels, evening dresses in dark Victorian lace and eclectic one-off pieces from the eras fashion wants to remember this season ďƒľ Photography Phillip Waterman
stylist Jess Stebbings
BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY Above Coat, POA; Corset bustier top, POA; Tattooed undergarment, POA, all Dsquared2, 51 Conduit Street, W1S Right Cape, £5,450; Wool pant, £890; Cashmere turtleneck sweater, £990; Ranch hat, £1,950, all Ralph Lauren Collection, ralphlauren.co.uk; Yellow gold ring, £1,975, Chanel Fine Jewellery, 26 Old Bond Street, W1S
BACK TO BLACK Above Dress, from £1,269, DVF, 25 Bruton Street, W1J; Stilettos, POA, Dsquared2, as before; White gold and diamond earrings, £42,500, Amrapali, amrapalijewels.com; Black and white diamond ring, £3,390, NOA Fine Jewellery, noafinejewellery.com Left Dress, £2,062, Rochas, net-a-porter.com; Diamond and pearl earrings, £3,980, NOA Fine Jewellery, as before
BEYOND RETRO Above Dress, POA, Dolce & Gabbana, 6-8 Old Bond Street, W1S Right Blue dress, £1,150, Issa, issalondon.com; Shoes, £500, Stuart Weitzman, stuartweitzman.com; White gold ring, £2,050, Chanel Fine Jewellery, as before
HAIR AND MAKE-UP Katie Pettigrew using MAC, Kiehl’s and Kevin Murphy MODEL Sofia Simon @ Elite Shot on location at Ferry Farm, Suffolk The farm has three miles of river frontage and consists of 500 acres of grazing marshland with stunning backdrops onto the coast. The area is well known for waterfowl and birds and much of the farm is now dedicated to a conservation scheme. The farm also runs the Heritage Coast Stud which has more than 50 horses. For any enquiries about using the farm as a film or photoshoot location please contact Jane Marson on 07771 608 376 or jane@hcstud.com
Behind
the seams
Kari Colmans speaks to celebrated shoe designer Rupert Sanderson about honing his craft and why he loves living in Tufnell Park
I
f you’ve had the chance to visit the V&A’s current exhibition Shoes: Pleasure and Pain, which has been somewhat overshadowed by the extended run of Savage Beauty, then you’ll already have some understanding (if you didn’t already) of the role footwear has played throughout history. The thoughtfully curated showcase displays a huge variety of shoes, exploring their cultural significance through folklore and fairytales, status and seduction, to modern technological advances that have both changed and enhanced the design process of such a time-honoured craft. But most women don’t need an exhibition to tell them how important the right pair of shoes can make them feel; even as someone who is pretty conservative
in the colours and shapes they wear on the rest of their body, when it comes to a pair of courts, or even a jaunty brogue, there’s no limit to what is socially acceptable, from glitter and bows to the obligatory pair of ‘hooker heels’. Indeed, I currently have an entire room (in my two bedroom flat) filled with footwear. So I can relate to one of Imelda’s Marcos’s more indignant wardrobebased assertions that in fact, she did not have 3,000 pairs of shoes: “I had one thousand and sixty!” One Londoner who knows a thing or two about crafting exceptional soles is Rupert Sanderson. A relative late-comer to the industry, Sanderson packed in a career in advertising for a two-year course at the Cordwainers college in east London. After stints at
interview
Sergio Rossi and Bruno Magli in Italy, where he was able to learn from the founders and their families before they were bought by the larger luxury goods companies, he set up his eponymous label in 2001. While the history of cobblers and craftsmanship is steeped in British tradition, (upheld, in part, by the Worshipful Company of Cordwainers, who with the first Charter in 1439 were licensed to control the shoe trade within the City of London), Sanderson describes the industry as one of two halves. “Weirdly, it’s a very modern business, because it’s global,” he says down the phone from his Bruton Place atelier where he’s preparing for the impending few weeks of LFW mayhem. “On the spectrum of the fashion cycle, it’s about the most difficult thing you can do, because it’s a very technical process. So while there’s still a whittling industry out there of traditional cobblers, it’s not really relevant on a global level. Today, it’s all about ready-to-wear shoes that you can make in small enough quantities so that they’re exclusive, but still large enough quantities to make them commercially viable. It’s like comparing the difference between dense, fact-based biographies and poetry; they’re still books, but you get there through a very different process.” While, in theory, anyone with a sewing machine and a vision could
probably create something akin to a simple smock dress, the same theory could not be applied to shoes. And that’s one reason why the luxury shoe industry, even more so than clothing, is an almost impossible nut to crack. “Shoes are difficult to make, it’s as simple as that. It’s very old fashioned in the technical processes that one uses; you can’t ‘CAD/CAM’ a shoe into existence [using computer-aided design and manufacturing]. There are a series of processes which are still very manual, and that require artisanal skill. Ultimately, each shoe has to go through the hands of a load of specialists; the heel man is different from the buckle man, the sole man is different from the leather man. The grading and the architecture of a shoe is complex. In that way, it’s very craft based; you have to be very involved and understand the implications of everything you do.” Following his mid-life career pivot, Sanderson says that it wasn’t necessarily the call of the fashion gods that turned his head towards the multi-billion pound industry, but the desire to do something with his hands. “I made a decision quite far into a relatively established career that actually I didn’t want to do this for the rest of my life. I’d always had this capacity for and interest in making things; it could be anything. I was very practically, creatively and artistically driven, but I found myself in an industry that wasn’t. So I decided to go right back to square one and start again. I always thought it would be nice to do, and if it didn’t come to anything, then at least I would have got it out of my system. But the truth is I got hooked, and the next thing I knew I was living in Italy and designing for some of the biggest names in the world. I thought ‘maybe I’m on to something here’.”
“There are a series of processes which are still very manual, and that require artisanal skill”
Vantage | 51
interview
He intimates that he could have easily been drawn to another sort of craft, in his very likeable, down-toearth manner, which after only a few minutes on the phone, I immediately warm to. There’s absolutely no pretence, no hint of arrogance, no airy-fairy fashion speak. “I probably couldn’t do furniture, I don’t know,” he laughs. “Maybe gin production or something, just a small batch! My decision to focus on shoes was the idea of making something physical that requires a lot of provenance and heritage as well as some sort of intrinsic value. The fashion industry came as a sort of by-product.” For AW15, Sanderson has drawn on classic, nostalgic silhouettes, made modern through a colour palette of shiraz, gingerbread, navy, champagne and forest green. They’re grown up shoes, with a less-is-more approach, but they’re far from sensible, with lux pony skins, rich velvets, fur and mesh providing a fun contrast to the more conservative materials of calf, kid, satin and suede. Platforms have been reframed into forties-inspired chunky shaft heels, while modest ankle straps add a touch of femininity to the more vertiginous models. There are even some fur pom-pom pumps to please those whose guilty style pleasures are satisfied through a bit of playful embellishment, adding a little cheer to the darkening winter evenings. Looking at my own tube-weary Nike Airs, I ask if he believes you can tell a lot about a person just by looking down, and if he feels people are more or less brand-driven when it comes to shoes, compared to bags or jeans, for example. “I suppose it’s the same as with anything in life. Once you settle on something that works for you, it’s hard to believe that people are so indiscriminate about anything they like. If you have a pair of jeans that you like, then often you will stick with that label; it’s just easier in a way, the decisions are made for you. I suppose that’s the purpose of branding; it allows you to make fewer decisions every time you have to repeat the purchase. “But when it comes to shoes, I think people are more promiscuous. I’m sure there are core customers
“Your shoes are a window into your soul; a window into how you’re feeling or how you want to feel”
52 | Vantage
who love a certain colour sole, for example, but as consumers become more sophisticated, they become more confident and realise that actually, they don’t have to rely on the bleeding obvious. They can make up their own minds, and if they see something that they like, they’ll buy it. For me, it shows quite an unsophisticated customer who can only function if they’ve got the right label on display; we don’t really appeal to those women. We’re for someone who’s a bit more bold about being in the fashion world.” The first shoes Sanderson can remember buying were a particularly vibrant pair of red Kickers. And although he didn’t grow up dreaming of being a fashion designer, he always had a penchant for what he put on his feet. “I decided what shoes I liked from a fairly early age, but then again, so does everyone. Very few people are ambivalent about their shoes. They can change an outfit entirely. They can change a person’s mood and transform them. They’re magical things. Your shoes are a window into your soul; a window into how you’re feeling or how you want to feel about yourself.” Family man first, famous fashion designer second, Sanderson lives in Tufnell Park with his wife Rowan and their three sons, where there’s enough space to live comfortably. “I love Hampstead Heath and the general vibe of the area. I think north London is London for Londoner’s, rather than a departure zone into the countryside which is what I always feel west London has become. I’ve been here for about 10 years now; I used to be based in Notting Hill, but I’ve traded in, cashed in, and moved to Tufnell Park. I love going to a local restaurant which is actually called Shoe Shop.” And no doubt if we were to follow him home, and peek inside his closet, then just like Imelda, all we would find is “shoes, beautiful shoes”. 19 Bruton Place, W1J, rupertsanderson.com
An education Rupert Sanderson is a graduate of the Cordwainers college (now part of the University of the Arts, London). The Worshipful Company of Cordwainers has a strong charitable ethos and is a world leader in the education and support of the shoe industry. It focuses on supporting young design talent and footwear education throughout Britain, providing a variety of scholarships and bursaries for students, which have a tangible effect on their studies and future careers in the shoe industry. cordwainers.org
PR ADO settee with cushion & EVERY WHERE sideboard. Design: Christian Werner. LUMIĂˆRE NOIRE floor lamps. Design: Philippe Nigro.
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Valentino
Salvatore Ferragamo
This season’s least subtle trend of art-inspired geometric prints takes inspiration from fashion’s favourite artists. Valentino led the way with monochrome checkerboard dresses and dragon motifs designed by Celia Birtwell and Emilie Flöge, while Jonathan Saunders drew on the work of Allen Jones, Bridget Riley and Victor Vasarely.
Alberta Ferretti
Dior
15
t r e n ds
Altuzarra
Loewe
Jonathan Saunders
Emilio Pucci
We’ve got your autumn wardrobe covered with our round-up of this season’s most coveted trends
Valentino
Roberto Cavalli
Ralph Lauren
Jenny Packham
While the saying goes that all that glitters is not gold, this autumn’s sparkliest trend has gone out of its way to prove the theory wrong. Shimmering gowns, glittering sequins and gold lurex dazzled the crowd at Fashion Week, where designers allowed their inner magpies to flourish.
Michael Kors
Shine bright
Temperley
Christopher Kane
Work of art
Salvatore Ferragamo
Move over Batman, there’s a new caped crusader in town. Ditch the coat and shrug your shoulders into the cosiest outerwear offering this season. Whether you go for Ralph Lauren’s suede number or DSquared2’s Navajo option, if it’s a cape, it’s a winner.
Suit up
Escada
Christopher Kane
Burberry
Emilio Pucci
Jasper Conran
Alberta Ferretti
Marc Jacobs
Velvet crush While velvet is usually reserved for the gothic trend, this season it cropped up in all manner of forms, from cobalt blue suits to oversized jackets and navy flares. Nod to the trend with a sleek jacket or, if you’re feeling daring, wear it from head to toe.
Power dressing is having a moment, and you’ll be pleased to hear there’s not a shoulder pad in sight. Pant suits have redefined workwear with elongating camel flares, cropped trousers and double-breasted blazers. Board meetings have never been so stylish.
Stella McCartney
Escada
Ralph Lauren Alberta Ferretti
Cape town
Ralph Lauren
DSquared2 Dolce & Gabbana
Anna Sui
Burberry
fashion
Vantage | 55
The Modern Age ďƒľ Photography Ian Walsh
stylist Vanissa Antonious
Stretch low boot in black vinyl with ink splash effect, £1,300, Dior, dior.com; Clutch bag, £995, Charlotte Olympia, net-a-porter.com; Red triangle bag, £865, J.W. Anderson, j-w-anderson.com; Yellow belt, £425, Loewe, loewe.com; Carnaby over the knee boot, £1,145, Nicholas Kirkwood, nicholaskirkwood.com; Green belt, £495, Loewe, as before
Beauty news By Ellen Millard
Here comes the sun If you can’t make it on holiday this year, let Bobbi Brown transport you to the soaring mountains of Colorado instead with its new Telluride Collection. Each product is designed to give your skin a sunkissed glow with warm shimmering shades of nude, rose gold and bronzy pink. Our top picks are the limited edition Telluride Eye Palette with seven tones of sunset-inspired eye shadow, and a limited edition Sunset Pink version of the signature Shimmer Brick. From £19.50, bobbibrown.co.uk
New Miu Since Miu Miu accounced it would be making its olfactory debut back in 2013, we’ve been waiting with bated breath for its first ever fragrance to arrive. Using Miuccia Prada’s love of juxtaposing styles, perfumer Daniela Andrier has created a scent that blends the sweet notes of lily of the valley, jasmine and rose with earthy tones of wood and pepper to create a fresh and unique fragrance. The blue quilted bottle is reminiscent of the fashion house’s signature matelassé design, while the red disc lid adds a playful pop of colour.
You time We love it when brands celebrate a good cause, and were thrilled to hear about Floris’s limited edition Rose Geranium Bath Essence in aid of Macmillan. Packaged in a sleeve designed by Marta Spendowska, £35 of the £55 retail price will go towards the charity. As September is officially bath month, there's never been a better time to indulge with the signature essence, a favourite of Marilyn Monroe. £55 for 50ml, florislondon.com
EDITOR'S PICK
From £48 for 30ml, available nationwide from 1 September, harrods.com
Flash the lash Never one to blend into the background, NARS has designed its new Audacious Mascara to make you stand out from the crowd. The signature ‘lash-catching’ brush comprises over 200 moulded bristles and lengthening hooks, which grip the lashes and evenly coat them in the buildable formula for a versatile look that takes you from day to night. So long, false eyelashes. £20, exclusive to Space NK, 62 Hampstead High Street, NW3 spacenk.com
bag
beauty
In the Our pick of the latest must-have handbag essentials
1. Clarins has mixed up the formula behind its
signature Joli Rouge lipstick. Rich in mango oil and organic marsh samphire, it is designed to nourish and protect lips. In a smattering of new colours – our favourite is Delicious Pink (pictured) – the range lives up to its name. Très jolie indeed. £19.50, clarins.co.uk
2. This season, the seventies are back (yes, again),
and this time it’s more sparkly than ever. Embrace the disco look with Laura Mercier’s Chrome Extravagance Collection, where glitter, metallics and shimmering eye shadows are taking centre stage. We'll bet that you'll look good on the dance floor. £32, lauramercier.com
3. One whiff of Maison Francis Kurkdjian Paris’s new fragrance Aqua Vita Forte will transport you around the world, thanks to its eclectic mix of internationallysourced ingredients. Mandarin from Sicily, bergamot and lemon from Calabria, and orange blossom from Tunisia are just a few of the notes you’ll smell in this fresh fragrance. £165, franciskurkdjian.com 4. Clinique’s new Beyond Perfecting Powder Foundation + Concealer is a bit of a mouthful to say, but when it does what it says on the tin, what’s not to like? The two-in-one foundation and concealer's creamy texture glides on to skin, providing full coverage while moisturising dry patches and controlling shine breakthrough. £27, clinique.co.uk 5. With Halloween still a while off, it may seem unusual to suggest a Vampire-themed makeover, but MAC’s new Vamplify collection proves that Draculacostumes aren’t just for trick-or-treating. Rouge lipgloss and liners will give a fuller mouth and a lasting shine worthy of a true vamp. £15 for lip pencil, £18 for Vamplify lip gloss, maccosmetics.co.uk 6. Burberry’s new Eye Colour Cream comes in eight shades of buildable shadows that can be worn alone or doubled up to create a dramatic look. Previewed in the AW15 womenswear show in London, the eyeshadows have a lightweight formula that enables easy application and long-lasting colour. £25, burberry.com 7. With the ‘no make-up make-up’ trend still going
strong, Tom Ford’s Flawless Face collection offers all the ingredients for a natural look. New lines of foundation, powder and blusher provide the tools for a seemingly blank canvas, while a brow sculpting kit will structure unruly brows. From £33, tomford.com
8. Hopes were high for Jo Malone’s latest fragrance
offering and, thankfully, it doesn’t disappoint. Mimosa and cardamom add a spicy tang to English pear, freesia and red roses, while a base note of tonka bean sweetens the deal. £42 for 30ml, jomalone.co.uk Vantage | 59
beauty
Seventh Heaven Lauren Romano catches up on some beauty sleep with a NUXE facial at the dreamy agua at Sanderson
C
elestial – that’s how I’d describe the agua at Sanderson. A friend had tipped me off about the “verging on clinical curtains”, but if Philippe Starck ever branches out into hospitals, I wouldn’t mind being a patient in what would no doubt be the cloud nine of wards. The set-up is slightly quirky, but then again, this is the Sanderson, and unexpected touches come as standard. White silk curtains – 2,500 metres of them – are suspended from the double-height ceiling, sectioning off private cocoons that unravel to reveal hidden day beds. The amorphous walls billow and ripple ever so slightly in the tailwind of spa goers, shuffling past in their slippers to the central relaxation area, where they sprawl on regency-style loungers and sip lemoninfused water. The heavens are very much open outside, so it’s a relief to swap my soggy-to-the-knee palazzo pants for a fleecy robe. In the changing rooms a solitary fan whirls, churning up the heavy, eucalyptus-scented air as I wait for my therapist Matt to take me to one of the 14 treatment rooms, separated by yet more white silk. Agua at Sanderson has recently teamed up with cult French beauty brand NUXE to launch a new range of treatments that make the most of the label’s natural origin-based products. I’m here to try the Sanderson Splendieuse facial, which is credited with reviving dull-looking complexions and evening out skin tone.
A silky Huile Prodigieuse and a layer of Crème Splendieuse moisturiser finish off the treatment
60 | Vantage
After Matt examines my face – and bats aside my confession that I don’t exfoliate, never mind use an eye gel – my face is polished with a hydrating rose cleanser, followed by a 4F Radiance Booster Scrub, which sounds like a chemical cocktail but is actually a floral blend. With a smooth base layer to work on, an anti-dark spot mask is applied, which is saturated in vitamin C-enriched ingredients to deliver that all-important radiance. As I lie there, muted by the cotton cloth, Matt does his best to explain the beauty mumbo jumbo – something about enzymes working deep down into my pores – as he massages my arms and attempts to loosen the stubborn knots in my neck. Science or no science, the mask has certainly done the trick and my skin feels plump and glowing as soon as it’s taken off. A silky Huile Prodigieuse and a layer of Crème Splendieuse moisturiser finish off the treatment and I slink off sheepishly for a jasmine tea and a nap in one of the sleeping pods before begrudgingly heading back outside to reality. It’s a painful awakening, but at least the rain has stopped. There is a god... Sanderson Splendieuse by NUXE at agua at Sanderson, £80 for 50 minutes, 50 Berners Street, W1T, sandersonlondon.com
Suppliers of quality bespoke doors and ironmongery to some of the UK’s finest homes. Showrooms: Esher, Surrey & Chelsea Harbour 01932 851 081 or 0207 376 7000 info@solidwoodendoors.com www.solidwoodendoors.com
home & INTERIORS
The future of luxury Opening the 2015 London Design Festival, Syon Park will once again provide the backdrop for this year’s Decorex, which will showcase new work by 400 interior and design exhibitors, from trade stalwarts to exciting newbies. This year the theme will celebrate the future of luxury through a series of interactive installations and seminars held by high profile industry figures. Don’t miss the Future Heritage feature area, curated by the design and applied arts critic Corinne Julius, who will offer a definitive guide to today’s most important makers and the names to collect in British craft (we love the pieces by Harlequin London, pictured). Head over on 22 September to explore the show, visit the Russell Sage champagne bar and indulge in the food market. Tickets £30, decorex.com
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Interiors news By Lauren Romano
Simply red Interior design firms from around the world will descend on the capital this month for the London Design Festival (19-27 September). One contemporary furniture brand worth looking out for is Red Edition, which is making its London debut at Design Junction during the festival. Inspired by the Art Deco era, the Parisbased brand’s range of striking, statement pieces deliver a neovintage aesthetic that wouldn’t look out of place in either a family home in St John’s Wood or a Marylebone apartment. From £100, rededition.com
By the book Greg Natale’s graphic details and geometric patterns have propelled the reputation of his award-winning interior design company in his native Australia. Now the monochrome master is sharing his know-how with the launch of his first book, The Tailored Interior, complete with a foreword by Jonathan Adler. More than just a flickthrough coffee table tome, the beautiful book demystifies the interior design process with plenty of visual inspiration for those looking to start their own makeover.
EDITOR'S PICK
The Tailored Interior is released in September, published by Hardie Grant, £30, gregnatale.com
Loft living Lumberjack plaids meet bohemian motifs in the latest Ralph Lauren AW15 homeware collection, which takes its inspiration from Manhattan loft apartments. The soon-to-be released West Village range channels a vintage aesthetic with chunky knit throws in Japanese boro cloth patterns, handcrafted Bennington tableware and timeless Burleigh pottery. For those who want to add a nautical hint, the AW15 edit also includes the Winter Harbour collection of raw pine and salt-worn oak furnishings, blue plaid blankets, shearling textiles and weathered zinc pendant lanterns. ©Anson Smart
Available from 7 September, Bennington Pottery from £20 to £110, Wythe Wool Throw Pillow £430, ralphlaurenhome.com
interiors
Soft touch Specialist upholsterer Aiveen Daly celebrates a decade in the interior design business this year. Based at her showroom in Kensal Green, Aiveen weaves her love of couture fashion into a range of projects. From hand-dyed feathers to intricate clasps and embroidery on silk and leather, her subtle and sophisticated detailing and embellishments have transformed furniture in luxury hotels, yachts and private residences. Daly also offers an edited collection of madeto-order furniture and accessories alongside bespoke commissions.
Unchained melody Beautifully handcrafted from six logs of Macassar ebony, Steinway & Sons' latest model was designed by Frank Pollaro, and it is the prestigious company's 600,000th piano. Inspired by the Fibonacci spiral model, with its timeless but innovative appeal, the magnificent instrument, which took 6,000 hours to perfect, was unveiled at Masterpiece London this summer.
Aiveen Daly, 2 Letchford Gardens, NW10, aiveendaly.com
The Fibonacci, £1.85 million, steinway.com
New wave Branching out from the dainty bone-china teacups and saucers for which it is renowned, Wedgwood’s Arris collection fuses craftsmanship and design to contemporary effect. Warm metallics, crystal glass and textural ceramics are worked into a range of tableware items and decorative objects. Inspired by distinctive archive designs, including Robert Minkin’s angular 1960s creations, graphic copper and silver finishes are incorporated across the range.
Image © Hermès
From £40, wedgwood.co.uk
Strike a poise Paul Smith has swapped sharply-cut suits for streamlined lampshades, hitting the drawing board for a second time to collaborate with iconic British lighting brand Anglepoise. This time the Type 75 desk lamp edition two has incorporated a modern twist with an injection of colour. Moody slate grey and accents of lilac, bright orange and blue give the classic table lamp another reason to shine. Available from 1 September, £160, anglepoise.com
Maison Hermès Fashion house Hermès has added to its Les Nécessaries d’Hermès collection with two new additions that are both fashionable and practical. The Carré d’Assise Low Stool (pictured), inspired by the size of a classic Hermès silk scarf, is easily portable, doubles up as a coffee table and can be customised in leathers or a range of fabrics featuring story-based motifs or graphic patterns. Finished with beautiful marble or onyx, the Satellites Tables are similarly inventive and the three different diameters and heights means they can be placed in orbit next to each other or dotted apart. POA, uk.hermes.com Vantage | 65
Dream Weaver Rosita Missoni speaks to Ellen Millard about her favourite pieces from the latest Missoni Home collection, style tips for the new season and the importance of a close-knit family ďƒľ
All images courtesy of Missoni Home
INTERview
Vantage | 67
T
here are few brands that can claim a truly iconic emblem. Burberry has its check, Louis Vuitton its monogram and Chanel its double C logo. Among these icons is Missoni, whose zigzag print is ingrained internationally, either consciously or subconsciously, in the minds of both the fashion forward and the sartorially indifferent. The trademark pattern began life in the hands of a humble couple from northern Italy. After meeting her late husband Ottavio ‘Tai’ Missoni at the 1948 London Olympics (he was a participant in the 400m hurdles), Rosita set up a tracksuit business before moving on to knitwear. Missoni’s signature weave was in fact the brainchild of Tai, who adapted a Raschel knitting machine, blending a mix of colours to produce the unique wave design. Their knitwear shop rose to fame following a brief scandal in 1967 at the Pitti Palace in Florence. At the instruction of Rosita, braless models walked down the catwalk sporting the brand’s latest range of slinky knits, unaware that the bright spotlights would cause the lamé blouses to become transparent. Needless to say, they were not invited back, but this did little to damage the fledgling house’s reputation. By the end of the year, Missoni clothes were being featured on the cover of Arianna magazine and, shortly afterwards, the pages of Elle, Marie Claire and Women’s Wear Daily. Their early work was quickly endorsed by Italian writer Anna Piaggi, French stylist Emmanuelle Khanh and then Vogue editor Diana Vreeland, who helped the brand make a name in the US, resulting in its first ever boutique in Bloomingdales. Fast-forward 48 years and the label is still a household name; its collaborative collection with Target sold out within 24 hours and famously crashed the retailer’s website, and its sportswear and interiors lines have been equally well received. Driving its success are the still soaring sales of rainbow space-dye knits, geometric prints and contrasting stripes, which are still synonymous with the house. “I have always been sensitive to colour,” Rosita tells me. “I grew up in the province of Varese with views of the mountains and their colours were always changing. My family’s company made shawls and kimonos from embroidered and coloured fabrics, so I grew up amongst colour.”
However, the Missoni matriarch left the fashion label in the early nineties and relaunched the interiors branch in 2004, where she now lends her natural eye for colour and print to plush sofas, floor-toceiling curtains and striped rugs. Having built the company from the ground upwards, the departure came as a surprise to many, but, she says, she was more than happy to pass the torch on to her daughter Angela, who released her debut collection in 1994. For Rosita, interior design is a skill that comes naturally. “Interiors are my roots,” she explains. “My grandparents used to have a factory, which produced embroidered fabric for shawls and lampshades, so yarns and fabrics are a language I have known since my childhood. Playing with pieces of cloth has been the game of my life. I used to work with passion, and fashion had become a duty. I felt very relieved when Angela decided she was ready to take the reins of the fashion collection. At that time I realised that the home was becoming fashionable. I could again transfer my passion for patterns and colours and reflect my fashion sense in the home collection.” And that she did, mixing her sense of style with her love for interiors, often taking inspiration from the label’s ready-to-wear collections. “The most successful and famous icons from the Missoni range have simply been transferred from fashion to home, on suitable fabrics and in an ever-expanding range of products,” Rosita tells me. “Sometimes I might see a beautiful fabric from our fashion house and I’ll take it home and put it over a table or over a chair, then decide how it can be used as a curtain or a bed. Fashion is an integral part of the label; we take note of trends and observe the wave of change, but we are never ruled by fads.” This could not be clearer than in her response to any minimalist trends: “It’s not for me. The eighties were difficult years as minimalism was popular,” she muses. “Fortunately we had very loyal customers, so we kept doing what we loved.” Imagining Rosita’s own home as an explosion of print and colour, I ask if she does the décor herself.
“Fashion is an integral part of the label; we take note of trends and observe the wave of change”
INTERview
can be covered in the fabric from the collection. It is a new way to bring pattern to the space.” As you’d expect, pattern is at the heart of the Missoni Home collection; one glance at the 2015 lookbook reveals decadent bedspreads, tableware and furniture in a kaleidoscope of colours mixed together through floral prints, stripes and, of course, the signature zigzag design. After more than six decades in business, how does Rosita come up with new ideas, season after season? “My inspiration comes from everywhere; from art, books, flea markets and my lifestyle,” she explains. “The view of the mountains around me, the garden and the flowers that bring me pleasure and make me feel relaxed.” Having celebrated its 60th anniversary in 2013, the house is the subject of two retrospective projects this year: a book by Mariuccia Casadio and Luca Stoppini entitled Missonitutto will be released this month while the exhibition Missoni, Art, Colour, runs until November at the Museo Maga in Gallarate, Italy, showing 100 iconic Missoni pieces, paintings by Tai Missoni and an installation by the founding couple’s son, Luca, who looks after the business archive. But it seems that along with hard work, a close knit family is the secret to the brand’s long-lasting success. As one of the last fashion-houses still functioning under the guise of its founding family, Missoni is a design tour de force, leading the fashion and interiors worlds respectively with its army of style-savvy kin. At Missoni Home, Rosita works closely with her niece Wanda Jelmini and nephew Carlo Torrani, while her children and grandchildren take care of the ready-towear range. “Fashion is ephemeral, and this is its great charm,” she says. “But home is long-lasting”.
“I like playful elements, creating flexible patterns and furnishings, easily moving from indoor to outdoor”
“Absolutely! My home is my nest: unconventionally stylish, cosy, comfortable, colourful, harmonious, happy, relaxing and full of light,” she responds passionately. “Besides my bedroom, which is my refuge, I would say the dining room is my favourite room because it is the core of the home. It is a kind of veranda with sliding door-windows overlooking the garden.” Decorating her abode with a mix of Missoni (of course) and second-hand wares (“I am particularly fond of flea markets. There is always something unexpected to find”), Rosita recommends investing in the pieces you fall in love with: “If it is something that you are passionate about, then it will always have a place in your home.” For AW15, the designer suggests mixing block colours and patterns to create a playful aesthetic. “I tend to use solids or tone-on-tone fabrics for sofas and big armchairs, on which one can display cushions of different sizes, even in macro patterns,” she says. “I like playful elements, creating flexible patterns and furnishings, easily moving from indoors to outdoors; I always try to mix comfort and fun,” she continues. “Personally, I love the use of screens or circular rugs to create backgrounds and corners. We have introduced a modular screen to Missoni Home that
Missoni Home is available to buy from amara.com
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health & family
Bon voyage If you’re planning to don a swimsuit somewhere along the Riviera this month, then there’s only one new workout wear collection for you: Hey Jo’s Voyage line, which takes it cues from the glamorous life of the 1960’s jet set. Focus immediately shifts to the legs in these leggings, with the flattering two-tone stripe instantly streamlining limbs à la Kate Winslet in that Stella McCartney dress. Hand sewn in London, each pair is made of Italian jersey and features the brand’s signature gold metal detailing. Available from this month in six colour combinations, we love smart monochrome. £149, hey-jo.co
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Family news By Ellen Millard
Your chariot awaits Be the envy of the park with the new Balmoral Bespoke from Silvercross, exclusive to Harrods. The handmadeto-order personalised baby carriage comes in five shades of premium leather with a hand-stitched hood and apron, handcrafted metallic C-spring chassis, and a sturdy handle in walnut or white. Each pram is individually polished and painted and comes complete with an engraving of your newborn’s name. £5,000, available exclusively at Harrods, harrods.com
Soft spot
A very merry unbirthday To celebrate the 150th anniversary of Lewis Carroll’s Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland, Charbonnel et Walker has released a commemorative box of chocolates themed around the book’s sequel, Alice Through The Looking Glass. Packaged in a gift box decorated with re-drawn and re-coloured illustrations of Alice and Humpty Dumpty, milk, white and dark chocolates make up the selection of Wonderland-themed treats – the perfect accompaniment to a Mad Hatter’s tea party. £24, charbonnel.co.uk
Keep your little ones warm this autumn with the softest knits Cashmirino has to offer. Made from wool sourced in Mongolia by founder Maria, the cosy collection boasts chunky cashmere pullovers, pastel rompers and simple accessories to wrap your kids up in. Our personal favourite is this soft pink skater dress with a hand-knitted floral design, complete with matching scarf. From £50, cashmirino.com
FAMILY
The royal seal of approval
Hop to it
Dragons of Walton Street has set up shop in neighbouring store Harrods, where its new concession will sell the brand’s prestigious furnishings. Decorators to the stars, the firm has kitted out nurseries for Madonna, Victoria Beckham and Gwyneth Paltrow along with royal clients Princes William and Harry and their cousins Princesses Beatrice and Eugenie. The illustrious interior design label, which holds the sole UK licences for Beatrix Potter and Paddington Bear, will no doubt prove a success in its new home.
From £85, minnaparikka.com
Dragons of Walton Street is now open at Harrods
Cloud nine Little Londoners who are used to the rainy climes of the capital will love these mobiles from Nubie. Handmade in Denmark, the felt clouds and metallic leatherette raindrops hang from transparent threads, giving a floating illusion, while the gold and silver tones reflect the light as they move. Available in soft grey or subtle pink, these sweet mobiles look great when hung above a cot, and are a handy distraction for newborns or toddlers while you catch up on some sleep.
Just when we thought Minna Parikka’s bunny trainers couldn’t get any cuter, the brand has launched a newborn size in soft pink, silver and black. We’ve been after a pair ever since we first set eyes on the sweet rabbit ears, so we’re sure these Baby Bunnies will go down a treat with trendy tots ready to take their first steps.
EDITOR'S PICK
A French connection The rain in Spain may fall mainly on the plain, but for the rest of western Europe, sporadic nationwide downpours are likely all year round. Luckily for us, two of our favourite French brands have used the impending soggy season as an excuse to club together and design the ultimate waterproof coat. Petit Bateau has revamped K-Way’s signature Claude mac with a navy blue and white Breton-striped print. The foldable coat is made from lightweight nylon and is ideal for families on the go, whatever country you’re in. Très bien! From £40, petit-bateau.co.uk
£29.95, nubie.co.uk
Spider clan As a mother to three sons, we imagine Charlotte Olympia had a helping hand with the design of her new Incy collection, which has expanded to include a boys range. The new line sports spider-web embroidery, camouflage print and her signature Tom Cat design on high-top trainers and slip-on shoes. Those with daughters should check out the girl’s collection, which has Tutti Frutti flats, leopard print ballet pumps and kittens aplenty. From £165, charlotteolympia.co.uk
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HEALTH&FITNESS
Oh boy Sweaty Betty’s AW15 range channels a West Coast vibe, so whether you’re hitting your yoga mat or the slopes, get kitted out for the occasion in racer-back vests and bright rainbow-print leggings that wouldn’t look out of place in the skate parks of Venice Beach. The Tomboy Tribe collection also features jackets, track pants and relaxed workout T-shirts in a range of pastel shades. From £40, 35 Heath Street, NW3, sweatybetty.com
Health & fitness news By Lauren Romano
A Stella performance To mark 10 years of adidas by Stella McCartney, the designer's latest collection has upped the tech factor. Climaheat running apparel uses insulation technology and reflective details to keep runners warm and visible as they workout; the seamless yoga onesie is designed to deliver recovery support to the lower calf after a strenuous stretching session; and the Climastorm properties of the studio parka (pictured) mean it's breathable and wind resistant, making it ideal for anyone who wants to keep active outdoors while braving the autumnal weather. From £45, available from adidas.com/stella
Born to run If Mr Motivator taught us anything it’s that catchy tunes (and a tasteful leotard) can power you through the most gruelling of workouts. Bang & Olufsen agrees that music is a motivator and has collaborated with British cycle brand Rapha to launch the BeoPlay H6 Rapha Edition headphones. As well as second-to-none sound technology and comfy, stay-in-place ear pads, the inner headband is designed to cope with perspiration, so you can get back on track with R Kelly. £329, Bang & Olufsen, 65 Marylebone High Street, W1U bang-olufsen.com
74 | Vantage
Saved by the bell The Queen’s pharmacist John Bell & Croyden has recently re-launched. To celebrate the refit of its Wigmore Street home, this month sees the introduction of a Wellbeing Emporium that will include a new vitamin, supplement and skin services department. Founded back in 1798, the renowned store will step into the 21st century as its entire range of cult health and beauty brands – many of which have created exclusive products for the relaunch – will all be available online for the first time. 50-54 Wigmore Street, W1U johnbellcroyden.co.uk
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Why did you decide to get into the cosmetic surgery industry? I have always felt intrigued and challenged by the whole process of reshaping someone's face. Surgery is an exciting career path and the ability to enhance and improve facial features for both aesthetic and reconstructive purposes is a very gratifying process. I have always been passionate about shapes, forms, space, and to some extent this field allows me to fuse my passions, as facial aesthetics are the architecture of the face.
What's your signature treatment? Although patients and the media love to talk about trends and ‘signature treatments’, the truth is that there is no singular treatment that can address all the multi-layered changes affecting our face. My philosophy entails signature treatment plans customised to each individual face rather than individual treatments. However, if I had to choose my favourite procedures these would be the Hyalu-Blepharoplasty to rejuvenate the lower eyelid and the Augmenting Eye Lift. Designed to restore a more youthful appearance in an area that conveys so many emotions, subtle changes, when executed correctly, can be transformative. In Los Angeles, HyaluBlepharoplasty is the treatment of choice for rejuvenating the eyelids by replacing the lost volume and smoothing the hollow contours without surgery. The treatment involves layers of hyaluronic acid injected within the eyelid using a very fine cannula. The results are immediate and patients leave the office with a fresher look. The augmenting Blepharoplasty meanwhile is a minimally invasive surgical procedure that rejuvenates the upper eyelid and improves the 3D contours. Unlike traditional techniques, which alter volume proportions and can leave patients with an undesired tightness and even restricted expression,
Face Time
Vantage talks turning back the clock naturally with Marylebone-based plastic surgeon Costas Papageorgiou Tell me about your background? I am a plastic surgeon who specialises in aesthetic and reconstructive procedures involving the face. I was born and raised in Greece but have lived in Italy, England and the USA. I recently relocated to London from Los Angeles where I was advancing in minimally invasive techniques and was exposed to the latest trends in facial aesthetics. It’s a privilege to bring back the aesthetic philosophy from the West Coast and apply it to my London patients.
interview
replacing and augmenting what is lost is the key element in enhancing youthfulness and expression in a natural fashion.
Why are people taking this route as opposed to more drastic plastic surgery options? If there is a way of delaying surgery people are willing to try it, especially patients in their thirties or forties who are not looking for age reversing procedures, but minimally invasive approaches that can refresh their appearance, with no pain or days off work. Undoubtedly surgery has more powerful and longer-lasting effects, but concerns over risks, costs and longer recovery times can make people think twice and opt for the 'less but more often' approach.
“Ethos can be a very subjective concept and I always encourage patients to do extensive research”
Are people coming to you at a younger age?
Nowadays patients realise that early intervention is important in reversing or delaying the ageing process in a natural way. I think London is quickly embracing this and the majority of my patients in their late thirties to early fifties simply want to look good for their age. It is not surprising that the latest line of YSL skincare was inspired by the “tech neck” – an i-generation syndrome affecting those who check their smartphones and tablets up to 150 times a day.
Do you think plastic surgery has become more or less taboo? Definitely less. We have to acknowledge that we live in a society obsessed with perfection and beauty and this can certainly push boundaries. On the other hand we have witnessed an increased demand for rejuvenating treatments and societal acceptance of such interventions. It is okay to admit that you had a little tweak to smooth some forehead lines or improve the jaw contour.
Tell us about your ground-breaking Hybrid medical facial When I relocated to London I wanted to offer my patients a supercharged rejuvenating treatment that could target all layers of the skin. Due to the perplexity of the skin structure and the multitude of layers and elements responsible for its integrity, a single conventional treatment cannot be sufficient to address the complex aging process. The development of the Hybrid facial stems from clinical research studies and my experience at UCLA and the cosmetic industry in Beverly Hills and New York. I couldn't imagine a better setting to offer the Hybrid but the Michaeljohn Medispas in Mayfair and Belgravia, which have the latest energy-based devices, are perfectly suited.
How is the industry changing? The increasing social acceptance of facial cosmetic surgery has nurtured a rather unregulated market, where patients are likely to be targeted by aggressive business models and questionable approaches. Ethos can be a very subjective concept and I always encourage patients to do extensive research prior to pursuing cosmetic treatments, even with the least invasive ones like facial fillers or Botox.
What is your best advice in maintaining a youthful face? Patient education, research, prevention and gradual approaches are my philosophy. Of course, genetics have a critical role in our appearance, but we have the ability to enhance our facial features and counteract aging by immersing ourselves in a healthy lifestyle, avoiding sun exposure and above all adopting aesthetic interventions that enhance rather than transform.
What will be the new treatments that we are all trying next year? I think the next revolutionary treatment is going to be an injectable drug designed specifically to reduce unsightly double chins. The drug, called Kybella, is injected into the fat below the chin and destroys the fat cells. Recently approved by regulators in the USA and not yet available in Europe, this treatment could address an area of the face where so far only surgery has proved to be effective. We will also see an increase in combination therapies where energy-based technologies will be fused with softer surgeries to satisfy the needs of younger clients.
Need to know Find Costas Papageorgiou at London Medical, Clearwater Court, 49 Marylebone High Street, W1U To book a consultation call 020 7467 5481 or visit facialplasticslondon.com
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Clearing YourHEAD People often smile when a doctor says that they have a professional interest in headaches. “How interesting can a headache be?� is a question Dr Kevin Shields, Consultant Neurologist at The Wellington Hospital is often asked. Here, he discusses living with migraines, treatments and how to prevent them. A headache is often something that we take for granted, perhaps even not take seriously. But for many of us, headaches are no laughing matter.
Living with Migraines
Up to 1 in 6 of us will have a migraine at some point in our lives. It is more common in women than men and it tends to run in families. While there is a genetic component, environmental factors also play a part in causing the headaches. Some of these triggers are well recognised, such as a disturbance in sleep pattern. Hunger is a trigger for many, while hormonal fluctuations during the menstrual cycle may also be a factor for women. Stress can play a part. Behaviour modification can help to prevent some headaches and establishing a set routine around food and sleep is important. Despite our best efforts, however, headaches may still happen. The good news is that there are effective treatments out there.
Treating Migraines
When you have a headache there are several treatment options. It is always good to start off with simple painkillers, such as paracetamol, or antiinflammatories like aspirin, ibuprofen or naproxen. Many people find it helpful to take an anti-sickness medication as migraine may cause nausea and also slows the absorption of painkillers from the gut. The triptans are a family of drugs specifically designed to treat migraine attacks. There are several to choose from and sumatriptan is available to buy
over-the-counter from any pharmacy. They should be taken once the headache begins but you can only take two doses in 24 hours. Painkillers and triptans should not be used too often because they may make the migraines worse in the long-term. If you are having a lot of migraines then you should be offered a preventive treatment to reduce the number of headaches you get.
Migraine Prevention
There are a large number of preventive treatments, ranging from a vitamin to drugs also used to treat conditions such as high blood pressure, depression or epilepsy. Preventive treatments need to be taken every day and it is important to note that they may not work immediately. They are started at a low dose and then generally slowly increased until the headaches improve, the maximum dose is reached, or side effects prevent any further increase.You therefore have to be patient and persevere with each drug for several months. There are also treatments that do not involve taking tablets such as botulinum toxin (BotoxÂŽ) injections. As you can see, treating migraines can be complex, but getting it right can make a big difference to your quality of life. It is important that you talk to a neurologist with particular experience in this field as research suggests that many people with migraine are not correctly diagnosed and fail to receive the appropriate treatment, especially for frequent headaches.
meet the specialist Dr Kevin Shields is a Consultant Neurologist with particular expertise in the management of headache disorders working at The Wellington Hospital. He is one of a small number of neurologists in the UK who has a PhD in headache research. He also holds a NHS appointment as a Consultant Neurologist at The National Hospital for Neurology and Neurosurgery and the Whittington Hospital.
For further information or if you would like to arrange an appointment at The Wellington Hospital, please contact the Enquiry Helpline on 020 7483 5000 or visit thewellingtonhospital.com
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Crème de la crème Having proved its worth at curating the best of what the world’s most stylish boutiques have to offer all under one proverbial roof, international e-retailer Farfetch has turned its knowhow to our kitchen table. In a new tome titled Farfetch Curates Food, you can read reviews, recommendations and recipes from today’s top taste-makers, from the Man Repeller’s New York hangouts to Jonathan Saunders’ hidden London gems. “A restaurant find is the natural concomitant of a backstreet retail discovery,” writes Tim Blanks, editor-at-large for Style.com, in the foreword. “It’s the kind of information that fashion nomads trade like stocks and bonds.” £16, Assouline, assouline.com
Scallop cooked over burning juniper branches, chef Magnus Nilsson, Fäviken Magasinet, Järpen, Sweden
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Holy mole Before you get your sombrero in a twist over the lack of good local Mexican food, head to Mole. Forget your standard order of chicken or beef in a tortilla and choose gluten-free wraps made from masa (cornflour), bursting with tasty cod cheeks doused in squid ink foam or slow-cooked pork belly with pickled watermelon and sweet miso. As well as a raw bar serving ceviche and anticuchos (marinated skewers of fish, meat and vegetables), signature cocktails will include Frida & Diego, a zingy blend of ginger-infused tequila with homemade rose syrup, lime and cucumber. 16 Picton Place, W1U
Food & drink news Kari Colmans
Cellar of dreams Locals will recognise the Truscott name above a new 60-cover wine bar due to open in Belsize Park this month. The Truscott Cellar is the second venture from the owners of the fantastic Truscott Arms pub in Maida Vale. Boasting a 300-bottle collection, with 50 choices by the glass, you can sample rare blends, alongside a menu of small sharing plates devised by executive head chef Aidan McGee, who heralds from Dinner by Heston. 240 Haverstock Hill, NW3
Keep it in the family The Gardiner brothers have already made quite a name for themselves over the channel with their three Le Taillevent dining destinations. And now the family has set Marylebone in its sights for its very first London opening. Les 110 Taillevent London will offer 110 wines by the glass paired with simple but high-end classical French food, with interiors by Pierre-Yves Rochon, who was also behind the gilded frescoes and artfully arranged bottles of the Paris original. Menu details are not yet clear, but we can only hope for a few signatures – roast duckling with caramelised endives and gingerbread and crispy calamari topped with chorizo and Espelette pepper. 16 Cavendish Square, W1G
Piqueting our interest Allan Pickett (former head chef at Plateau and Orrery) and André Blais (founder of Bodean’s BBQ group) have joined forces to open Piquet in Fitzrovia, inspired by the culinary cultures of England and France. Blending both classical and contemporary dishes, Pickett will sustain the regularly changing menu using seasonal ingredients sourced from around the UK (specifically Kent, his home county) while décor wise you can expect hand-painted decorative Gesso panels, vintage British chairs and classic French pewter table tops. 92-94 Newman Street, W1T
food&drink
Restaurant review
Hit the Sack Kari Colmans indulges in a surprisingly subtle truffle and wagyu feast at Sackville’s
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urning down a quiet street on the Piccadilly side of Mayfair, Sackville’s is easy to spot from the doorman standing to attention outside. There has been a lot of hoo-ha about this decadent opening, already purporting itself as the best place in London for meat and truffles. But let’s face it, we are hardly short of an overpriced steak restaurant, or even of a menu brimming with dishes coated in the pungent funghi of the moment. So I was worried that this would just be another STK-style monstrosity, where you’re left feeling repulsed by everything you’ve consumed, and unable to get the faintly burnt tyre-esque whiff of truffle oil out of your nostrils for days. But it really isn’t. For a restaurant sporting a hint of truffle in every one of its dishes, this place, incredibly, is rather subtle; in its smart-casual but fairly minimal décor, its elegant ambience, its mixture of clientele, and yes, more than anything, in its use of flavours. Head chef Wayne Dixon, formerly of Maze Grill, has been busy sourcing his black gold from Istria in Croatia: as well as a hint in each dish, you can also pay for an extra shaving, in case it’s just not epicurean enough for your tastes. My dining partner and I start off with some healthy starters, having already spotted sides and desserts that we just can’t live without; asparagus on a bed of crunchy gremolata (a fresh and zesty chopped herb condiment) for me, and an heirloom tomato salad for her. Both are tasty and reassuring in their vitamin count to counteract the heart attacks waiting to happen. Those less affected by food shaming may go for the truffle hunt, a mixture of salami, mushrooms and a dusting of truffle. Sackville’s makes much of its burger offering, but the steaks sound too good to turn down; we both go for wagyu – rib eye for me, rump for her – which come to the table unctuous, oozing, and golden brown, garnished with a single sliver of black truffle, and accompanied by a truffle mac and cheese (pure heaven) and some wilted spinach. We don’t leave a scrap of our 300g slabs. Even mine at well done retains all of its tenderness, moisture and
Sackville’s makes much of its burger offering, but the steaks sound too good to turn down
flavour, reflecting both the skill of the cook as well as the quality of the marbled meat. Beef-between-two-buns enthusiasts won’t know what to do with themselves when forced to choose between George’s Black Burger (wagyu patty, truffle brioche bun, foie gras mousse, truffle mayonnaise) and The Fat Pat (wagyu patty and Angus patty, tomato relish, peppered pancetta, melted Emmental). But if you’ve forgotten to bring a lifetime’s supply of Zantac, there are some lighter options too, including a falafel version. For dessert, we share the chocolate fondant burger, and I feel like Gregg Wallace as I dip in to inspect the crumb-to-ooze ratio (a triumph!). It’s so good that the cumbersome biscotti bun is superfluous to the dish, even if it does make for a fun photo (you can always tell the dishes that are going to mushroom into an irritating Instagram rite of passage). The restaurant is busy and downstairs also starts to hum with the sound of clinking glasses as a group of corporates deliberate over the cocktail and wine list, created by mixologist Monica Berg, formerly of Pollen Street Social. All in all, everyone looks very content. But it’s pretty impossible to feel otherwise: the service is spot on and the food, while indulgent, is neither ostentatious nor overpowering. And best of all, your nostrils are left totally unravaged, so you can actually taste, and enjoy, what you’re eating. 8a Sackville Street, W1S
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Studio photography by Matt Sills
interview
© Getty Images
Marios’ Cart Better known for dressing Hollywood stars, designer Marios Schwab has put his sartorial stamp on a summer terrace for aqua kyoto. Lauren Romano heads to the Regent Street rooftop bar to toast his interiors debut
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oogle the name Marios Schwab and ‘red carpet’ and photos of Naomie Harris at the premiere of Skyfall, posing in a sheer black gown with an opalescent bodice shimmering underneath, ping back at you. Scroll a little further through the search results and there’s a roll-call of other leading ladies forming a stylish queue down Schwab’s red carpet back catalogue – from Blake Lively and Diane Kruger to Jessica Chastain and Kristen Stewart. After debuting his SS07 collection at London Fashion Week, the designer, renowned for his intricate and meticulous craftsmanship, was instantly singled out as one to watch. But as summer fades into autumn, fashion takes a momentary back seat, with Schwab sidelining couture for cushions. Up at the top of the old Dickins & Jones building on Regent Street, the Marios Schwab for aqua kyoto terrace has been dressed to impress. The rooftop space is filled with graphic designs in pixelated moody greys and teals. Prints adapted from
aqua kyoto terrace, image courtesy of aqua London
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Schwab’s SS15 collection, inspired by his Greek heritage, have been fused with textiles that take design cues from the ancient art of origami as a nod to restaurant and bar aqua kyoto’s Japanese roots. And that’s not the only taste of East Asia-meetsthe-Aegean on offer. Schwab reveals that the whole project took almost four months to design and source and another month and a half to install, which proved thirsty work. So much so that he is now no stranger to a cocktail shaker, having propped up the bar with aqua London’s Luca Missaglia to create a series of drinks for the terrace using Cîroc vodka. The Smoky Fig – a blend of crème de fig and mezcal – comes with his personal seal of approval. “Luca took the time to visit us in the studio and we merged a few themes that came from the inspiration board. We liked the idea of fusing the aroma of Greek herbs with smoky Japanese flavours,” Schwab explains. “I enjoy the chemistry of throwing elements together,” he adds. “The bar menu is refreshing but mystical at the same time, very much like the terrace that surrounds it.” To complement the drinks, contemporary Japanese cuisine inspired by Tokyo’s Ginza district is served at lunchtimes – think succulent soft shell crab rolls with tobiko and buttery Wagyu beef. “I like creating things that are not necessarily always fashion-related too,” Schwab continues, in full confessionary mood. “I enjoy the alchemy of putting things together.” At aqua kyoto he has worked his magic on everything from the soft furnishings to bespoke light fixtures and the centrepiece, the striking aforementioned bar that could have been lifted from the set of Crystal Maze. Essentially, it’s a huge mirror box placed within a frame. During the day the sunshine bounces off the glassy plains, but at night the mirror glows from within to illuminate a series of horse’s legs that look as though they are galloping through the glass in slow motion. “It all becomes very dramatic when the sun goes down. I love watching the transition of the space from day to night,” he says. “We were trying to convey a very elemental, metallic look, like mercury suspended in a thermometer. By putting all the aspects together and creating this repetitive, layered perspective, it is hard to gauge what is behind the mirror. That was the point; to create something that people can observe that is graphically interesting,” he explains.“Something Instagram-worthy.” For a designer who has earned his stripes through laborious handcrafting, Schwab is not afraid of keeping up with the times and embracing technology. “The challenging part for me was finding and working with specific materials that are suitable for outdoor use, like waterproof fabrics. There is an interesting side to merging technology and fashion,” he tells me. After some trial and error Schwab settled on vinyl fabric that resembles the intricate folds of origami. The prints meanwhile depict pixelated Herculaneum figures. “I wouldn’t like to call it that,” he hesitates when I try to coin the label
Yukari maccerated strawberries, image courtesy of aqua London
“I enjoy merging fashion and design. The mediums have always flirted”
Ancient Greek chic. “The idea was to create oversized photojournalistic pictures, very much like 60s or 70s Pop Art. More than anything the collaboration was about creating texture and intrigue in a big outdoor space and fusing my designs with the aqua kyoto brand.” Fashion is in Schwab’s blood. His father was an underwear engineer and manager of Triumph International in Greece. A quick run through of his CV makes for impressive reading. By the age of 15 he already had his heart set on a career in the industry and moved to Salzburg to study fashion at Annahof School. He relocated to London in 2003 and worked for Clements Ribeiro before applying to Central Saint Martins and completing his MA in womenswear. He scooped the coveted prize for Best New Designer at the British Fashion Awards in 2006... the list of accolades
Kenji summer rolls, image courtesy of aqua London
interview
goes on, but Schwab again insists he is more interested in fashion in its broader sense. “Fashion and design have always flirted,” he explains. “They are both mediums for considering the visual. What I love about interior design is that it can be really timeless. When I create prints I sometimes like to involve artists rather than stereotypical fashion people because it brings a different dimension to the work.” It makes sense then that rather than fashion muses or time-honoured couture houses, it is the artist Francis Bacon – “someone who I have included many times on my mood board” – who provided the inspiration for Schwab’s romantic yet faintly macabre AW15 collection. A book he read recently about the artist’s obsession with the rawness of the body was a starting point. “Francis Bacon had a very abstract way of portraying the body so I tried to incorporate
Studio photography by Matt Sills
“The challenging part for me was finding and working with specific materials that are suitable for outdoor use”
veiling techniques,” he says. Subtle representations of the anatomy are at the core of the collection, the most obvious reference being the bright coral-toned piping which is meant to represent the vascular system. Evidently on the pulse in more ways than one, when it came to showcasing the AW15 collection Schwab decided to ditch Fashion Week in favour of a salon-style presentation. He insists that hurriedly answering questions backstage and the traditional setting of the catwalk “doesn’t feel right for [him]; personally it’s quite tiring”. Instead Schwab called on French actress Ariane Labed, who recently appeared in the Cannes-nominated film The Lobster, to model the collection, encouraging people to interact and ask questions. “It was really great to work with somebody who doesn’t necessarily come from a fashion background, but who loves and wears the brand. It felt more personal,” he says. Schwab describes his designs as “modern, simple, with a minimal aspect” and hand-crafting at their core. So will his new found appreciation for digital filter through to his next collection? “I think it’s a transitional moment,” he says, reflectively. “When I looked at the last collection I realised that going back to our roots and creating garments with a strong element of craftsmanship was a better move. But we’re all very different. What I like about the fashion scene today is that designers can redefine how you buy things, how you connect with retailers and customers. I think it makes people much more selective in how they want to see things and what they choose to wear. And that’s good because we were slightly, how shall I put it, drowning in so many different directions. It’s nice to go back to the notion of how you identify your personality in terms of clothing and style.” A bus door bleeps down the receiver and a cacophony of car engines filters through my handset. There’s no time to stop for Marios who is chatting to me on what must be his commute to the studio. Unfazed, he raises his voice over a pneumatic drill and carries on. The AW15 collection is a distant memory; his next collection will be showcasing in December and in the interim there are a couple of collaborations he is working on. “Sometimes I like a surprise,” he says, coyly. “London is a platform,” he agrees when I ask whether the capital is overtaking other cities as the fashion epicentre of the world. “It’s one of, if not the most interesting place for creating new ideas and getting support from institutions to do that, so I’m very glad I live here. More and more, different creative fields are merging into each other and I think that is brilliant because there is always an unexpected situation. Wherever you go, you are going to find something new and it will always surprise you.”
Wagyu beef, image courtesy of aqua London
Marios Schwab for aqua kyoto is open until the end of September, 240 Regent Street, W1B, aquakyoto.co.uk
aqua kyoto terrace, image courtesy of aqua London
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Escape to Kentisbury Grange - the ultimate boutique country hotel.
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Discover fine dining at The Coach House by M ichael Caines.
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Set in the heart of North Devon on the edge of Exmoor National Park – just three hours from London Paddington.
Kentisbury Grange, Kentisbury, Barnstaple, North Devon EX31 4NL reception@kentisburygrange.co.uk | 01271 882 295 www.kentisburygrange.co.uk
the art of TRAVEL
Thyme after time Blurring the line between private country estate and boutique hotel, Thyme came to fruition as a result of owner Caryn Hibbert’s passion for all things English, including the land and local produce and livestock, evident in a few of the baaarmy interior design flourishes. Once only available to hire in its entirety, the charming Cotswolds estate now offers a range of luxury country accommodation from this month, sleeping between two and 16 people on the Southrop Manor Estate, while Thyme House is complete with a house host, and eight bedrooms and bathrooms. What’s more, you’ll be utterly charmed by the The Barr, ideal for botanical cocktails; The Swan, a 17th century English village pub serving delicious home grown fare; and the award-winning cookery school. From £260 per night, thyme.co.uk
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Travel news By Lauren Romano
Paris
HOTSPOT
Your front row tickets might have been lost in the post, but make the most of Fashion Week mayhem and explore the city’s other offerings this month Le soleil is still shining over Paris’ beautiful boulevards and tree-lined avenues and the waves of tourists that flooded the city in August (following the locals’ mass exodus to Saint-Tropez) have been replaced with returning Parisians, who sip coffee outside charming bistros. Aside from the peoplewatching potential during Fashion Week, September is the perfect time to sightsee, minus the queues. The European Heritage Days on 19 and 20 September give visitors access to a string of the city’s historic buildings, including a number which are not usually open to the public. The fifth annual Paris Design Week takes place from 5-12 September, and for those who want to enjoy the last of the summer’s blooms, the Festival of Gardens takes place during the final weekend of September when the area around the Notre Dame Cathedral is transformed into a huge garden.
Why
All images on this page © Mandarin Oriental
Since opening in 2011, Bar 8 at The Mandarin Oriental, Paris has been one of the hottest aftershow party destinations in town, so you never know who you might bump into in the lobby. There’s a reason the hotel is so popular with the fashion elite – its location, in the stylish surrounds of Rue Saint-Honoré, places it close to some famous ateliers including that of Christian Louboutin. The Louvre and the Tuileries Garden are within walking distance for those looking for a cultural detour en route to the shops. Back at the hotel, guests can enjoy a Guerlain facial in the spa, fine dining from Thierry Marx, and, if staying in the breathtaking Royal Mandarin Suite, 360-degree views of the fash-pack crawling the city.
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Rooms from £830 a night, mandarinoriental.com/paris
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Emperor’s new gaff
Haute hotels
One hundred years ago when the courtyard that is now home to Chengdu’s latest hotel – The Temple House – first opened, scholars studying at the ancient Daci Temple next door flocked there after a hard day’s work. Today the Qing Dynasty façade might have been restored to blend in with its 1,000-year-old neighbour, but step inside and the space has been transformed into its own temple of sleek modernity. Crisp white interiors and linear designed rooms fuse with traditional architectural details to bring old and new together in harmony.
SHORT HAUL
My fair lady As the official hotel of London Fashion week the May Fair Hotel is no stranger to welcoming visiting models and designers who clamour after its 12 individually styled suites. The best room in the house is the fuchsia-toned Schiaparelli Suite named after the avant-garde Italian designer Elsa Schiaparelli, a contemporary of Coco Chanel. The bubblegum armchair and the hot pink bedspread are just crying out to be Instagrammed – no filter necessary.
Rooms from £175 a night, thetemplehousehotel.com
From £1,500 a night, themayfairsuites.com
Wish you were here Anyone heading off for a late summer break to the Ligurian coast this month can blend in with the Italian Riviera’s tutti frutti ice cream-toned villages and picturesque harbours. Inject a little sunshine into your suitcase with Dolce & Gabbana’s recently launched Portofino range. The bright and cheerful collection of espadrilles, sundresses and swimwear features bold sceneryinspired snapshots that look like they could have come straight from a 1950s postcard. From £255, net-a-porter.com
Welcome to paradise Bali ticks several holiday boxes: for sun worshippers there are the endless stretches of powdery sand, while night owls are never far from a party, and Alila Seminyak on the south-west coast caters for all eventualities. On the doorstep of some of the area’s most pristine beaches, the resort’s wellness centre makes it a great place to recharge your batteries, but it’s also a gateway to exploring the livelier side of the island. Book the penthouse suite so you can drink in the views the morning after. Rooms from £175 a night, alilahotels.com/seminyak
long HAUL
Chez Ralph It’s all the rage for fashion designers to dabble in a spot of interior design these days thanks to Ralph Lauren, who kickstarted the trend for fashion label hotels more than 20 years ago. Back then he was compelled to work his magic on the oceanfront suites at Round Hill resort near Montego Bay, Jamaica. Lofty white rooms, teak four-poster beds and blue touches inject a dash of understated nautical chic. What’s more, visitors are in good company as the designer owns his own pad on the resort. If it’s good enough for Mr Lauren, well... Rooms from £325 a night, roundhill.com
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A Tale of Two Cities Kari Colmans spends her weekend in the Big Apple wining and dining like a seasoned Upper East Sider before kicking back like a local in bustling SoHo
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t’s almost a relief when visiting a big city for the second or third time to know you’ve already ticked off the tourist hotspots and you’re free to actually enjoy yourself. While nobody can return from their debut trip to NYC without a selfie from the Statue of Liberty/Empire State Building and a giant foam finger, it’s the kind of place, like your favourite chair, that only gets better the more time you spend in it, allowing it to mould to your whims and not dictate the mood. Having made a handful of trips over the years, this will be my longest stay; four nights is just enough time to get over the jet-lag and not fall asleep two minutes in to a sold-out Broadway show. My husband and I start at The Mark Hotel on the Upper East Side, a classy, stylish and now rather famous boutique establishment, which has managed to retain something of the ‘hidden gem’ allure about it, although everybody who’s anybody has passed through its doors. The striking black-and-white striped marble floor in the foyer, dotted with velvet couches in splashes of colour and quirky art-deco light fittings, has become an icon for interior design geeks, and I remember it from a few years back when I fine-dined at the hotel’s Restaurant by Jean-Georges, followed by drinks in the super-chic destination bar. Upstairs, we are shown to the Seventy-Seven King Guest Room, a positively sprawling space for a citycentre hotel room (the suites are even bigger of course), with its south-facing Manhattan views and the best of acclaimed French designer Jacques Grange’s subtle yet impactful flourishes. The monochrome marble bathroom, which continues in the same vein as the one downstairs, has double sinks and a secret TV hidden within the mirror. I feel like Goldilocks as I test out the sink-in bathtub; large enough to submerge (with or without company), but not so big as to leave you flailing around without the logistical dimensions to give your head and feet some anchorage. Small touches such as individually boxed Ladurée macaroons on your
This page: Images courtesy of The Mark Hotel
pillow, chilled Evian and blooming white roses as part of the turn-down service elevate the hotel from just another five-star property, of which there are plenty in New York, to something a bit more thoughtful. The service is also second to none; perish the thought at having to queue at the concierge desk, or wave down your own taxi – there are even striped hotel rickshaws, waiting in harbour by the next door Assouline store, which can take you to Bergdorf Goodman and back. We grab a late and casual lunch at what looks like an authentic neighbourhood restaurant just two doors down from the hotel, but turns out to be a famous chain called Serafina. Had we known beforehand, we probably would have avoided it, and missed out on the
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gooey deliciousness of bursting burrata with chargrilled zucchini, cherry tomatoes and San Daniele ham, followed by a thin and crispy stone-baked pizza. Just minutes from the top galleries and museums (make time for the Metropolitan Museum of Art and Acquavella) the hotel also overlooks Central Park, which is where we choose to stroll to on our first sunny afternoon, resisting the temptation to recreate childhood memories of absorbing the sights and equine smells from the comfort of a horse-drawn carriage. Japanese tourists are ferociously (and inexplicably) snapping pictures of squirrels in bins, which clearly isn’t quite as enthralling if you come from north-west London, while a newly married couple pose for a shoot under a sugared almondcoloured blossom tree. Children race their electric boats on the water and I feel sorry for one family that turn up for the fun, not realising that it’s a BYO affair, but they soon perk up once the street performers get going. Couples dressed in the finest clothes straight from the catwalk don’t look any more out of place than a homeless man, rolled up in his sleeping bag and guarding his drum kit (obviously an essential), enjoying the same soft beams. After following this lackadaisical lead, pausing at each bench to read the inscribed plaques before the last watery rays disappear behind the skyscrapers, we make our way to the enormous and imposing Mandarin Oriental Hotel on the other side of the park, where I have a spa treatment booked. Located in Columbus Circle’s Time Warner Centre, it backs on to a mall that houses the city’s most expensive restaurant, Per Se, which is still an odd concept for an out-of-towner: in every country but England you’ll find people who opt to spend more time eating in malls than is absolutely mandatory. Based on eastern medicine, the anti-aging 80-minute
Couples dressed in the finest clothes straight from the catwalk don’t look any more out of place than a homeless man
Jade Stone Facial uses a patented jade beauty stone that helps detoxify, firm and lift facial tissue, which can never hurt after a long-haul flight and a lunch full of refined carbohydrates. Using natural, herbal-based products from the Nefeli beauty line, the facial begins with a gentle exfoliation made from fresh water pearls ground into a fine powder. Following a thorough cleansing, my skin is manipulated with a jade beauty stone designed to ‘exercise’ the face by stimulating muscle receptors and energy points beneath the surface of the skin, including sinews and tendons. To finish,
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I lay back and absorb a nourishing face mask while eking out every second of the soothing hand and foot massage, before I make my way back to the waiting room, enjoying the mid-town views from the vast windows, and wait for my husband to collect me. After a quick turnaround, we head out to the newly opened Polo Bar by Ralph Lauren for dinner, which is undoubtedly the most exquisitely designed restaurant either of us has been to. Dazzlingly handsome staff, who outnumber their well-heeled waspish diners at least two-to-one, are dressed in various RL ensembles depending on their role; to smile, to welcome, to usher you through from the front door all the way downstairs, past various lecterns, without once having to double check our reservation. The evening couldn’t have come at a better time, just as we are renovating a new home, and I decide that I will simply copy absolutely everything (apart from the horse paraphernalia); the classic gold fittings, the dark green walls, the glistening mahogany staircase. Timeless, classic glamour, so far removed from predictable shabbychic or industrial-loft concepts, never goes out of style. Even the bathroom is covetable, and I vow to find those bottle-green tiles somewhere in Temple Fortune. Even though we’re wowed before the food arrives, things just get better; even at the most expensive restaurants (I doubt the dollar signs get much higher than they do here, but nobody would be counting), American-sized portions still apply. Hot caramelized onion and Gruyere buns arrive while we peruse the menu, served with proper butter, and not the anaemic whipped inferior with which you’re so often met in the States. We start with a prawn cocktail and pigs in blankets – unfussy, but faultless – followed by Dover sole served with chargrilled broccoli, fries, and a baked potato with a spread of toppings that are almost embarrassing (sour cream, bacon, cheese… the list goes on). Apple pie and coffee ice cream are perfection too. The food is simple and all-American, and although the waiters must wade through a sea of Chanel 2.55s and blonde blow-dries to get to our table, I get the feeling anyone would be made to feel welcome here. We spend the next day shopping at Barneys and the like, and it’s not until we move downtown that I realise how uncrowded the wider, tree-lined pavements of the Upper East Side are when compared
The range of stylish midcentury and contemporary furniture in the lobby invites a range of visitors on the day we arrive
This page: Images courtesy of SIXTY SoHo
to the hectic warren of SoHo and the West Village. Our downtown home for the next couple of nights is SIXTY SoHo, located just a five minute walk from the shops, bars and restaurants frequented by the city’s young professionals, as well as the new home of some close family members, who have just made the leap across the pond, and with whom we’ll be living it up as the locals do. The Tara Bernerd-renovated property has a similar feel to her London-based Belgraves Hotel – stylish, yet welcoming, more homely loft than head-turningly grand, with handsome colour palettes, layered textures, warm lighting and contrasting textures of soft velvet and grey wood panelling. Art pieces are created and curated by popular British artist Harland Miller, and the range of mid-century and contemporary furniture in the lobby invites a range of visitors on our arrival: some sipping coffee with friends, others alone with their laptops. Faux-casual staff in wool cardigans and chinos look more uncomfortable than if they were made to wear tux and tails as they point to the lifts behind the check-in desks to signal how we should locate our weekend dwelling. It’s all very compact – our room, while beautiful, barely has enough floor space for us to lay our suitcases down to unpack. Yet there are two rather cumbersome freestanding units – one housing a
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number of glossy picture tomes that nobody will ever open, the other a self-serving bar – which although look very hipster-friendly, aren’t really very practical. The bath is cut into the retro-tiled floor, which is fine for the nimble-toed, but very much confirms the fact that this property is designed, however pleasingly aesthetically, for the young. However, if it’s space you’re after, 10 of the suites do have French balconies with views of the Empire State Building and the Freedom Tower, while the rooftop terrace offers vistas in abundance. The hotel’s Gordon Bar also houses an extensive cocktail list and Italian-inspired bar snacks, and our ex-pat friends tell us that it’s among the best lounges in SoHo. The first downtown day is spent in Williamsburg, which means a ride over the Brooklyn Bridge, where we sample ramen burgers and soup-filled dumplings at a weekend food fair (or ‘food flea market’ as it calls itself) called Smorgasburg. Specialities range from vegan Vietnamese rolls to meat-heavy BBQs, and I find a Japanese salad dressing so good that I even wrap it up and shlep it all the way back to Hampstead, despite not being able to close my suitcase on the way here, let alone on the way home (MOMO dressing is the brand, but they don’t ship internationally). The views across the river from the banks of the waterside food market are humbling, morphing the vastness of Manhattan into a smaller, more manageable size when viewed with both distance and perspective. Despite eating an ungodly amount, we finish off with a late lunch at cult ramen house Ippudo, located in the East Village, for a low key and reasonably-priced
slurp-fest, which easily turns out to be my second favourite meal of the weekend. This is followed in joint third place with Piccola Cucina, a rustic box of a SoHo eatery with an open ‘kitchen’ (read glorified gangway) where two chefs preside over a daily changing menu of Italian delicacies, and Rubirosa, a family-run trattoria in Nolita that holds the title of best pizza in NYC. Our last few hours are taken up by second and third visits to Vince, J Crew, Intermix and Helmut Lang, which all sit back-to-back around the central SoHo vicinity, punctuated by high-priced juice breaks and avocado on toast at The Mercer Hotel. We look back on the last few days and realise that actually, we’d done nothing much at all, except walk off everything we’d greedily consumed, and that we’d be leaving without a single ‘wish you were here’ memento. Suitably smug, we finally feel like true New Yorkers.
Need to know the mark Rates at The Mark Hotel start from $475 per room per night based on two sharing on a room only basis, themarkhotel.com sixty soHo Rates at SIXTY SoHo start from $340 per room per night excluding tax, sixtyhotels.com/soho
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Kimonos
Catwalks
and
Jonny Clark joins London-based couturier Nicholas Oakwell on an inspirational boat tour in the heart of Tokyo
S
tanding in a queue waiting to board the famous rowing boats in Chidorigafuchi, the moat of the former Edo Castle in Kitanomaru Park, Tokyo, it is unclear how such a tourist trap could influence one of the world’s newest yet most sought-after couturiers. “Look
in front of you,” Nicholas tells me, as I scan over the faces of those waiting in line. Straight ahead, a grandmother and granddaughter stand head to head, waiting patiently for their turn, framed by the city’s unmistakable skyline peeking through the cherry trees. “This is what Japan is to me; these fantastic
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images of modernism and tradition that sit at odds with each other, yet seem so natural,” he continues. The picture ahead feels like a Kodak moment; the old lady perfectly poised in an ornate kimono and her daughter in a matching outfit, both holding bamboo umbrellas to protect them from a sun that’s desperately trying to break through the clouds. Japan is very welcoming, and even though there is a language barrier, somehow we still manage to communicate. Using wildly articulating hand gestures and bowing several times, we board the small rowing boat. Nicholas takes the oars, and propels us across the lake, cutting through the delicate blanket of fallen sakura petals, while I carefully find my balance. “I find inspiration in the most unusual of places. You have to really open your eyes and watch the world around you. Japan has always been a source of inspiration for so many artists and designers and I have always loved the sakura cherry blossom festival, as it’s regarded by the Japanese as a reminder of how temporary life is, and a call to action to enjoy the beauty of their surroundings,” says Nicholas. Sakura features heavily in Tsunami, one of Nicholas’ recent collections, shown at Claridge’s hotel last year. The collection pulled almost all of its influences from Japan, including the kimono-inspired tailored pieces. “I was shocked by the tsunami that hit Japan a few years back, and the power of its destructive force. But I was inspired by how nature fought back, and how the trees and flowers started growing out of the destruction.” This isn’t the designer’s first visit to the country, and he often ventures this way before designing a new collection. Reminiscing about a trip to Kyoto a few years ago, Nicholas remembers how he was instantly transported to another world. The much slower pace of life found in Kyoto is bright, colourful and steeped in tradition. The temples and their gardens are so well groomed and represent nature in such a choreographed way. The residents still walk in traditional attire down the street, with perfectly folded and layered kimonos. “Even the sound of the clothes was inspirational; I’ll always associate Kyoto with the noise of the maiko’s geta [traditional wooden clogs worn by apprentice geisha] hitting the cobbled streets.” As Nicholas passionately describes his love of all things traditional in Japan, he stops and puts down the oars. We almost collide with a wedding party who are also rowing on the crowded lake. He pulls out his iPhone, and snaps away at the giggling bride in her
“I find inspiration in the most unusual of places. You have to really open your eyes and watch the world around you”
From top: blossom season in Kitanomaru Park; Nicholas Oakwell's Tsunami collection
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“I always struggle to get out here at exactly the right time, as the seasonality of sakura changes every year”
flowing white wedding dress, as I watch terrified she will fall in as they pose for the perfect shot against the cherry blossom backdrop. “The funny thing is they probably got married months ago,” Nicholas retorts as he pockets his phone again and resumes rowing. This year, the blossom isn’t as full as it has been in the past and it is already starting to fall. “I always struggle to get out here at exactly the right time, as the seasonality of sakura changes every year,” Nicholas laments. His frustration is understandable; juggling a hectic schedule, constantly travelling around the world to meet his exclusive clients at the drop of a hat means that these influential trips can’t always happen on his own terms. “I am still trying to head to South America. I want to explore Chile, the Atacama Desert and Argentina.” But is travel his only source of inspiration? “Not at all, I find inspiration everywhere,” he tells me. “From
Above: Backstage at Nicholas Oakwell's Tsunami collection show; Left: Nicholas in Tokyo
art to literature, even films – they all inspire me. In fact, I’m probably most enlightened when pottering away in my cottage garden in the Cotswolds.” Just before our boat is called in by an incomprehensible Japanese tannoy that looks as if it hasn’t changed in years, Nicholas accidentally steers us into the overhanging trees. Entangled in the foliage, talk turns to the recent Tsunami collection presentation. “The set was really magical. It took the builders three days to recreate the hanging wisteria tunnels found in Fukuoka,” Nicholas says. There were 10,000 wisteria blossoms in total and guests had to brush the blossoms out of their way to get to their seat. It might seem elaborate but Nicholas believes in transporting his guests “into his imagination, from Parisian rooftops to a magical midnight garden”. As you would expect detail is paramount, not just when it comes to designing dresses, but in his shows too. For
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HOTEL REVIEW
Urban Retreat
Jonny Clark explores the latest Aman property and how it masters the art of the city resort
every collection he creates a spectacle to stimulate the senses. In his Tsunami show, the wisteria was scented by a bespoke fragrance by Roja Dove, and thanks to the use of fans, it swayed as if it was caught in the wind. He even employed slow moving lights to give the impression of clouds drifting by. Pushing back from the banks of the moat, and heading towards the boat house, we say our goodbyes and Nicholas tells me he is off to the Harajuku Ward, famous for both its boutique shops and high-end fashion labels. “It’s only a few minutes away, but it has a completely different micro-culture. You never know where I might find my next source of inspiration.” Realising my newfound guide knows Tokyo better than I, I accept his kind offer, and explore the city with him for the rest of the afternoon.
Situated on the very top six floors of the new Otemachi tower in the financial district Room with a view: a suite of Tokyo, Aman has created a bathroom at Aman Tokyo zen-like environment that is an architectural wonder in its own right. On entering at street level, the hotel is very unassuming, with smart and discreet staff ushering you into one of the elevators that take you directly to the hotel lobby on the 33rd floor. Inside, you will completely ignore the check-in desks, as your eyes are drawn upwards to the central atrium that at six storeys high, could be one of the most impressive hotel lobbies in the world. Fusing modern amenities and traditional Japanese style, the atrium is accessorised with oversized cherry blossom branches and low Japanese benches. These are all dwarfed by Aman at rant Restau The a suspended ceiling featuring a textured washi, a style of paper used in origami framed in a wooden grid to resemble the interior of a Japanese lantern. The lighting inside the atrium changes throughout the day, which is helped by the large windows that offer uninterrupted views of the skyline. Each of the 84 rooms and suites feature floor-to-ceiling windows too with camphor-wood furniture and day beds and bathrooms decked in slate, hidden by sliding wooden doors. As you enter, your butler explains the ritual of onsen (a Japanese hot spring), which you are able to either take in your room, thanks to your own private furo – a miniature box-like bath – or for a true onsen experience, head to the Aman Spa. There is even a full-sized infinity pool that boasts views of Mount Fuji. After embarking on a Japanese ritual treatment, you wouldn’t be blamed for wanting to avoid the bustling metropolis below. In a city with more three-Michelin star restaurants than any other in the world, you may feel eating in the hotel restaurant is unforgiveable. However, The Restaurant at Aman is a destination dining experience in its own right. The Mediterranean, Japanese and Asian dishes are expertly prepared and the sommelier pairs them with some unusual wines from the 1,200-bottle wine cellar. This metropolitan oasis situated in the clouds has the perfect magical blend of Japanese contemporary style, service and amenities that make it the city’s worst kept secret. Rooms from £400 per night, amanresorts.com
nicholasoakwellcouture.com
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property
Property Listings See below for estate agents in your area
Arlington Residential 8 Wellington Road NW8 9SP 020 7722 3322 arlingtonresidential.co.uk
Aston Chase 69 / 71 Park Road NW1 6XU 020 7724 4724 astonchase.com
Hanover 102 St John’s Wood Terrace NW8 6PL 020 7722 2223 49 Welbeck Street W1G 9XN 020 8128 0675 hanover-residential.com
ian green residential 28 De Walden House Allitsen Road, NW8 020 7586 1000 iangreenresidential.com
Laurence Leigh 60 Queens Grove NW8 6ER 020 7483 0101 laurenceleigh.com
Marsh & Parsons 35 Maida Vale W9 1TP 020 7368 4458 27 Parkway NW1 7PN 020 7244 2200 91 Salusbury Road NW6 6NH 020 7624 4513 marshandparsons.co.uk
Globe Apartments 45 Chiltern Street London W1U 6LU 020 7034 3430 globeapt.com
Knight Frank 5-7 Wellington Place NW8 7PB 020 7586 2777 79-81 Heath Street NW3 6UG 020 7431 8686 55 Baker Street W1U 8EW 020 3435 6440
Hamptons International 99 St John’s Wood Terrace NW8 6PL 020 7717 5319 21 Heath Street NW3 6TR 020 7717 5301 hamptons.co.uk
RUNWILD MEDIA GROUP
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60 Salusbury Road NW6 6NP 020 3815 3020 2c England’s Lane NW3 4TG 020 3815 3350 knightfrank.co.uk
PHILLIPS HARROD 85-87 Bayham Street NW1 OAG 0207 1234 152 phillipsharrod.com
Savills 7 Perrin’s Court NW3 1QS 020 7472 5000 15 St John’s Wood High Street NW8 7NG 020 3043 3600 savills.co.uk
savills.co.uk
Parkheath 208 Haverstock Hill NW3 2AG 020 7431 1234
TK International 16-20 Heath Street NW3 6TE 020 7794 8700 t-k.co.uk
8a Canfield Gardens NW6 3BS 020 7625 4567 192 West End Lane NW6 1SG 020 7794 7111 148 Kentish Town Road NW1 9QB 020 7485 0400 parkheath.com
If you would like to appear within the property pages of VANTAGE, contact Friday Dalrymple, property manager, on 020 7987 4320 or f.dalrymple@runwildgroup.co.uk
P R O P E RT Y Showcasing the finest HOMES & PROPERTY from the best estate agents
Elegant & exclusive The latest prime properties
Image courtesy of Knight Frank
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Chain Reaction
Jeremy Rosenblatt and Jason Goldstone of Hanover explain why a boutique agency stands out from the crowd and how the close partnership with their West End branch has allowed them to look beyond St John’s Wood
property
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hat exactly is a boutique agency? It’s a question that Jeremy Rosenblatt and Jason Goldstone have deliberated over since they founded Hanover back in 2006. “It’s about delivering a personal experience – attention to detail is paramount,” Jeremy begins. “We have been in the business for more than 20 years, so we position ourselves as local market specialists.” Starting life in leafy St John’s Wood, the team at Hanover made the decision to branch out by opening a West End office 18 months ago which is overseen by Richard Douglas and Alex Bourne and concentrates on the golden postcode areas of Marylebone, Mayfair and Knightsbridge. “As we are not part of a big corporate chain, we found that a lot of people prefer to deal with independents because they feel as though they are getting a more personal service,” Jeremy explains. The Hanover ethos has always been about approachability, personality and a bespoke service that recognises the differences between each and every client and situation, including discreet offmarket sales. “It’s also an experience. We deal with sought-after properties at the luxury end of the market and clients expect a certain level of service,” Jason says, adding that Hanover’s reputation and client base has spread through word of mouth. “We sustain relationships with our clients. People come to us years after we’ve sold them a property, sometimes just for advice on the market.” Currently Hanover is in the middle of a rebrand. From this month a new-look website will be launched alongside various promotional materials. ‘Residential’ has also been dropped from the name. “Hanover has become so well-known over the last nine years that we felt we didn’t need the ‘Residential’ part of our name anymore,” Jeremy says. As talk turns to the relationship with the West End office, right on cue, Richard Douglas and Alex Bourne arrive en route to a viewing in Knightsbridge. The dynamic between the four is immediately obvious. “We understand each other,” Alex says. “We’re more synchronised than ever and are striving ahead as one company. Our clients go on journeys with us; we took one house hunter from The Bishop’s Avenue to Knightsbridge recently,” he continues. About 90 per cent of the clients that the West End office deals with are international buyers who are
often unfamiliar with what each pocket of the capital has to offer, which is another reason why the Hanover network is so effective. Jeremy argues that St John’s Wood’s appeal is largely to do with the fact that the area is considered to be the last suburb before central London: “People like living in suburbia but still being within 10 minutes’ drive of town,” he comments. The position of the nearby American School and the London Business School makes it even more of an attractive postcode. The property stock also continues to be a good investment. “We are currently marketing a Spanishstyle villa on Elm Tree Road that is expected to achieve £2,000 a sq ft. I predict further capital growth in the area too because we tend to follow what Prime Central London does,” Jason explains. As the rebrand rolls out at both offices this autumn, Hanover is looking to the future and potential expansion plans into both north-west and central London. But Jeremy, Jason and the West End team are adopting a cautious and considered approach. “There’s always a danger that if you grow too big, some of the personality and personal service that you invest in a small, tailored business will slip away,” Jason says, as the others nod in agreement. Not that there’s any chance of that happening; Hanover is a boutique agency through and through.
“We’re more synchronised than ever and are striving ahead as one company. Our clients go on journeys with us; we took one house hunter from The Bishop’s Avenue to Knightsbridge”
102 St John’s Wood Terrace, NW8, 020 7722 2223 hanover-residential.com
Photography by Sarel Jansen
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Linden Avenue, Kensal Rise NW10 A spacious four bedroom house with garden A well presented house arranged over three floors and full of traditional features in fashionable Kensal Rise. 4 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, double reception room, open plan kitchen/dining room and garden. EPC: E. Approximately 148 sq m (1,593 sq ft). Freehold
Guide price: £1,395,000
KnightFrank.co.uk/queenspark queenspark@knightfrank.com 0208 022 5466
@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk
KnightFrank.co.uk/QPK150120
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Harvist Road, Queen's Park NW6 A handsome five bedroom Victorian terraced home with garden. A beautifully refurbished family home overlooking the southern end of the park in Queen’s Park. 5 bedrooms, 3 reception rooms, open plan kitchen/ dining room, 4 bathrooms and garden. EPC: C. Approximately 274 sq m (2,957 sq ft). Freehold
Guide price: £3,200,000 KnightFrank.co.uk/QPK150055
KnightFrank.co.uk/queenspark queenspark@knightfrank.com 0208 022 5466
@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk
Vantage - August - Queen's Park
10/08/2015 10:55:39
Clifton Hill, St John's Wood NW8 Six bedroom house in St John's Wood This beautifully refurbished and well proportioned detached house is situated in a quiet cul-de-sac on Clifton Hill with a private garden, garage and one off street parking space. Master bedroom with en suite dressing area and bathroom, 5 further bedrooms (2 en suite), 2 family bathrooms, double reception room, breakfast/kitchen, cinma/leisure room, playroom, study area, guest WC, 2 patios, terrace, front and rear gardens. EPC: E. Approximately 387 sq m (4,156 sq ft). Freehold
Guide price: £6,995,000
KnightFrank.co.uk/st-johns-wood stjohnswood@knightfrank.com 020 7586 2777
@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk
KnightFrank.co.uk/SJW110198
106 Clifton Hill - Vantage September 2015 -print3
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08
Springfield Road ST JOHN’S WOOD NW 8
An exceptional opportunity to purchase this double plot located on the south side of Springfield Road, with planning permission to create a new build home of approximately 8,916 sq ft with a lift serving all floors, indoor swimming pool and off street parking for two cars.
The house is located close to Loudoun Road within walking distance of The American School in London, St John’s Wood underground station (Jubilee line) and the numerous amenities of St John’s Wood High Street. Principal bedroom suite with his and hers bathrooms and dressing rooms, five further bedrooms, four shower rooms, three en suite bathrooms, reception room, study, dining room, kitchen/breakfast room, family room, cinema room, swimming pool/ leisure area, gymnasium, two staff bedrooms and shower rooms, utility room, two guest cloakrooms, lift serving all floors, car lift, double carriage, off street parking for two cars, private rear garden, front garden. EPC: D.
Freehold
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Guide Price £10,000,000
Joint Sole Agents
St John’s Wood
020 7586 2777 KnightFrank.co.uk
10/08/2015 16:55
L ET T I NGS
At Aston Chase we know the finer points of Letting and Property Management. We have been providing guidance in ‘Letiquette’ to Tenants and Landlords in Central and North West London for over 30 years. In doing so, we have acquired a reputation for a level of service that is second to none. If you have a property to let or are looking for a home to rent, look no further than Aston Chase.
6 9 – 7 1 PA R K R O A D | L O N D O N | N W 1 6 X U | T + 4 4 ( 0 ) 2 0 7 7 2 4 4 724 | A S T O N C H A S E.C OM
WHITE LODGE CLOSE THE BISHOPS AVENUE N2
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A RARE OPPORTUNITY TO PURCHASE AN IMPOSING DETACHED LATERAL RESIDENCE DISCREETLY LOCATED JUST OFF THE BISHOPS AVENUE. The property provides extensive family accommodation (635.89 sq m/6,840 sq ft) arranged over two floors only and features a sweeping carriage drive and double width garage.
ACCOMMODATION AND AMENITIES Principal bedroom with dressing room, en-suite bathroom and balcony, 6 further bedrooms with en-suite bathrooms, grand double height reception hall, large drawing room, study, dining room, family room, kitchen/breakfast room, landscaped gardens, air conditioning, security system, Lutron lighting, approx. 4 years left on the NHBC Guarantee. EPC=B.
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GUIDE PRICE £7,950,000 FREEHOLD ALSO AVAILABLE TO RENT AT £6,850 PER WEEK PRINCIPAL AGENT
10/08/2015 13:10
Ferncroft Avenue HAMPSTEAD NW3
Located on this much sought after tree lined avenue is this substantial Edwardian double fronted family house, which has been virtually re-built and renovated to an exemplary standard. The house extends to over 5,600 sq ft of the most luxurious accommodation using the highest quality bespoke furnishings, including solid oak doors, skirting boards and staircase balustrade. Alongside a stunning luxury fitted kitchen/breakfast room is state of the art technology, including an integrated Linn Sound System and air conditioning to all the principal rooms. Outside there are gardens to the front and rear with a ‘sunken’ decked garden, large patio and a lawned garden, two off street parking spaces at the front of the house and residents parking is also available. Ferncroft Avenue is ideally situated for the open spaces of Hampstead Heath and Hampstead Village and is within easy access to the Finchley Road.
Principal Bedroom with Dressing Room and En-Suite Bathroom, Four Further Bedrooms, Two En-Suite Bathrooms, En-Suite Shower Room, Staff Bedroom with En-Suite Bathroom, Reception Room, Sitting Room, Study, Kitchen/ Breakfast Room, Garden Room, Gymnasium, Playroom/Family Room, Library/Study, Utility Room, Kitchenette, Utility Room with Kitchenette, Two Guest Cloakrooms, Off Street Parking For Two Cars, 72 Foot Rear Garden, Decked Terrace, Air Conditioning in the Principal Rooms.
ÂŁ7,250,000 FREEHOLD SOLE AGENT
Brocas Close NW3 ÂŁ1,750,000
Moments from Primrose Hill, a spacious and bright three storey town house with landscaped garden and private parking.
1720 sq ft/160 sq m 4 double bedrooms 2 large receptions 18’ kitchen/dining room Off street parking Contact Belsize Park Office 020 7431 1234
South Hampstead 020 7625 4567 nw6@parkheath.com
Belsize Park 020 7431 1234 nw3@parkheath.com
West Hampstead 020 7794 7111 192@parkheath.com
Kentish Town 020 7485 0400 kt@parkheath.com
Property Management 020 7722 6777 pm@parkheath.com
Head Office 020 7794 7111 headoffice@parkheath.com
www.parkheath.com
Lancaster Grove NW3 ÂŁ1,850,000
A contemporary three double bedroom maisonette, superbly positioned for Belsize Village and Primrose Hill, with private garden and parking.
1134 sq ft/135 sq m 3 double bedrooms Immaculate interiors 27’ reception area Private walled garden Contact Belsize Park Office 020 7431 1234
South Hampstead 020 7625 4567 nw6@parkheath.com
Belsize Park 020 7431 1234 nw3@parkheath.com
West Hampstead 020 7794 7111 192@parkheath.com
Kentish Town 020 7485 0400 kt@parkheath.com
Property Management 020 7722 6777 pm@parkheath.com
Head Office 020 7794 7111 headoffice@parkheath.com
www.parkheath.com
hot property
Swiss precision
SWISS COTTAGE, NW6 AVAILABLE TO RENT FOR £1,595 per week
property
SITUATED JUST a few moments’ walk from Swiss Cottage Underground Station (on the Jubilee Line), the American School on Loudoun Road in St John’s Wood, and the interiors boutiques, restaurants and cinema complex on Finchley Road, this newly refurbished townhouse is ideally located for both busy commuters and families. Thoughtfully arranged over three floors, providing 1,828 sq ft/170 sq m of accommodation, the house features a spacious open-plan kitchen, dining and conservatory area. Ideal for entertaining and family living, this flexible space also leads on to a practical patio garden. In addition, there are also two reception rooms, three bedrooms, two newly installed bathrooms, a large utility room and a guest cloakroom, with off street parking for two cars. For more information contact Arlington Residential 8 Wellington Road, NW8 020 7722 3322; arlingtonresidential.com
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SPRINGFIELD ROAD ST JOHN’S WOOD, NW8 A DETACHED HOUSE ARRANGED OVER THREE FLOORS ONLY, PROVIDING FAMILY ORIENTATED ACCOMMODATION OF 4,316 SQ FT / 400 SQ M WITHIN A MOMENTS’ WALK OF THE AMERICAN SCHOOL ON LOUDOUN ROAD. THE ACCOMMODATION COMPRISES A MASTER BEDROOM SUITE WITH DRESSING ROOM AND BATHROOM, 5 FURTHER BEDROOMS, 2 FURTHER BATHROOMS, 2 SHOWER ROOMS, DRAWING ROOM, DINING ROOM, FAMILY ROOM, KITCHEN / BREAKFAST ROOM, GUEST CLOAKROOM, GARAGE, ADDITIONAL OFF STREET PARKING AND FRONT AND REAR GARDENS.
SOLE AGENTS
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AVAILABLE FOR RENT AT £4,500 PER WEEK
10/08/2015 10:19
Arlin
CLIFTON HILL ST JOHN’S WOOD, NW8 HAVING BEEN COMPLETELY REMODELLED AND REFURBISHED THROUGHOUT, A STUNNING STUDIO HOUSE OF
1,551 SQ FT / 144 M WITH A STRIKING INTERIOR. THE HOUSE IS DISCREETLY POSITIONED AT THE FOOT OF A PEDESTRIAN PATHWAY OFF CLIFTON HILL, WHICH IS SITUATED ON THE WEST SIDE OF ST JOHN’S WOOD AND IS WITHIN EASY REACH OF ST JOHN’S WOOD HIGH STREET AND ST JOHN’S WOOD UNDERGROUND STATION (JUBILEE LINE). THE ACCOMMODATION COMPRISES A PRINCIPAL BEDROOM WITH EN-SUITE BATHROOM, 2 FURTHER BEDROOMS, 2 FURTHER BATHROOMS AND AN OPEN PLAN DOUBLE HEIGHT KITCHEN / RECEPTION ROOM.
FREEHOLD
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JOINT SOLE AGENTS
GUIDE PRICE: £1,995,000
10/08/2015 11:13
020 7722 2223 | www.hanover-residential.com
‘I’m leaving because the weather’s too good. I hate London when it’s not raining.’ GROUCHO MARX
020 7722 2223 | www.hanover-residential.com
020 7722 2223 | www.hanover-residential.com
Maida Vale ————— Stunning new penthouse with roof terrace offering magnificient views of London. Penthouse Aberdeen Court W9 £3,150,000 Long Leasehold
A newly constructed penthouse apartment (1,935 sq ft / 180 sq m) offering the best of lateral luxury living in London. The entire entertaining space is fashioned from beautiful natural wood inspired tiling with under-floor heating and boasts unique features such as a spectacular domed dining room and direct passenger lift access. Accommodation comprises three bedrooms, three bathrooms (two en-suite), reception room, dining room, Neil Lerner kitchen and roof terrace. Amenities include air conditioning, AV sonos system, Rako LED lighting system, reserved parking space, double glazed windows, skylights with remote controlled roof blinds and day porterage.
020 7722 2223 | www.hanover-residential.com
Regent’s Park ————— Elegant seven bedroom period home adjacent to Regent’s Park.
Kent Terrace NW1 Price on application Crown Estate - Long Leasehold
A beautifully appointed seven bedroom Grade II Listed period home (3,786 sq ft / 351 sq m) located within this Nash terrace in Regent’s Park. The house features well planned and versatile accommodation offering an abundance of entertaining spaces complemented by the rare benefit of an open plan kitchen leading onto a private rear garden. Kent Terrace benefits from direct access to Regent’s Park via Hanover Terrace Mews and Kent Passage. It is also within walking distance to Baker Street Underground Station ( Jubilee, Bakerloo & Hammersmith & City Lines), St John’s Wood High Street, and St John’s Wood Underground Station ( Jubilee Line).
020 7722 2223 | www.hanover-residential.com
St John’s Wood ————— Lateral five bedroom detached house set behind electric gates.
Elm Tree Road NW8 £7,500,000 Freehold
A unique low built double fronted period residence spanning some 3,429 sq.ft/318 sq.m situated in this sought after road in the heart of St Johns Wood. This elegant five bedroom house is arranged over two floors only and offers stunning living space which is enclosed behind electric gates. There is planning permission to expand the basement to create a further 1,000 square feet. Elm Tree Road is ideally situated within half a mile of all the shopping and transport facilities of St Johns Wood High Street.
020 7722 2223 | www.hanover-residential.com
St John’s Wood ————— Bright sixth floor one bedroom apartment with underground parking.
Pavilion Apartments NW8 £1,150,000 Share of freehold
A bright and spacious one bedroom apartment situated on the sixth floor of this luxury modern apartment building in St John’s Wood. The property features well laid out accommodation with an open plan kitchen dining/reception room, bedroom with a generously sized en suite bathroom and spacious hallway with separate guest WC. The property also benefits from secure underground parking and excellent 24 hour porterage. Specification: Wooden flooring, Leicht kitchen with built in Bosch and AEG appliances, marble floor in bathroom with underfloor heating and climate control throughout.
020 7722 2223 | www.hanover-residential.com
St John’s Wood ————— Stunning three bedroom apartment with 29’ double reception room.
Eyre Court NW8 £2,695,000 Share of freehold
A stunning, newly refurbished three double bedroom, two bathroom apartment (1,639 sq ft / 152 sq m) located on the ground floor of this prestigious portered development in the heart of St John’s Wood. The flat has been comprehensively refurbished throughout with all new electrics, plumbing and soundproofing. Features include a superb 29’ double reception room, beautifully appointed kitchen from Nicolas Anthony on Wigmore Street, underfloor heating in all tiled rooms and heated mirrors in all bathrooms.
020 7722 2223 | www.hanover-residential.com
Albert Street NW1 ÂŁ3,500,000 A stunning five-bedroom family house fully refurbished to an exceptional standard, located on one of the most sought-after streets in Camden. Freehold. EPC=E
Camden: 020 7244 2200 sales.cam@marshandparsons.co.uk
Aberdeen Court W9 ÂŁ2,000,000 A bright and spacious three-bedroom apartment, ideally located only a short walk from the fantastic array of local amenities in Clifton Road and superb transport links. EPC=D
Little Venice: 020 7993 3050 sales.lve@marshandparsons.co.uk
Portman Mansions W1U £1,600,000 An exceptional two-bedroom apartment beautifully refurbished to an excellent standard with a 24 hour porter and communal gym, located close to The Regent’s Park. Share of Freehold. EPC=D
Marylebone: 020 7935 1775 sales.mar@marshandparsons.co.uk
Smartly designed living space with magnificent glazed frontage Matching people and property in London for over 150 years.