Making numerous regional, subregional and single vineyard wines in Central Otago, Jen Parr says a regional blend is like a family portrait, with flaws and features less obvious because of harmony within the group. “A single vineyard wine is like zooming in on one person: you see the contours, freckles, and sparkle.” Jen is part of the Pinot Noir feature in this edition. Photo Anna Allan.
Editorial Sophie Preece
From the CEO Philip Gregan
Women in Wine Inspiring pioneers
The Profile Dr Richard Smart
Growing Legacy Rippon Vineyards
Wine Weather James Morrison
Regulars Features
Seasonal Update
Excellent flowering was followed by cool conditions in many wine regions this summer. “I think Mother Nature is having a bit of a laugh,” says Marlborough winemaker Matt Mitchell.
A Place for Pinot
Within little more than a generation, New Zealand Pinot Noir established an impressive degree of quality and the potential for so much more, writes Emma Jenkins MW, in the lead up to Pinot Noir New Zealand 2025.
Women in Wine
In celebration of International Women’s Day on 8 March, Emma Jenkins MW speaks to five inspiring winemakers who have helped pave the way for talented women in all areas of the industry, thanks to perseverance, passion, and some of New Zealand’s best wines.
EDITOR Sophie Preece sophie@sophiepreece.co.nz
CORRESPONDENTS
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Emma Jenkins MW
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Published by Rural News Group Ltd under authority of New Zealand Winegrowers Inc. Unless directly attributed, opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of Rural News Group and/or its directors or management, New Zealand Winegrowers Inc. or its constituent organisations. Published every second month. One free copy is mailed to every member of New Zealand Winegrowers Inc, New Zealand Society of Viticulture & Oenology and the New Zealand Vine Improvement Group, and to such other persons or organisations as directed by the owners, with provision for additional copies and other recipients to be on a subscription.
ISSN 1174-5223
From the Editor
A common refrain last year was ‘survive ‘til 25’, including from those in New Zealand’s wine industry facing rising costs, surplus wine and sluggish export sales. But challenges are seldom contained in a calendar year, and recessions don’t dissipate in the face of resolutions, so as we careen towards vintage on the roller coaster of primary production, ‘survive through ‘25’ now seems apt.
Wineries with abundant stock from the 2023 and 2024 vintages are considering this season’s excellent flowering and bumper yields against the backdrop of winery and market capacity. That means grape growers facing ever-increasing costs are dealing with significantly softened demand. It’s a vintage that requires cooperation, says Dog Point Vineyard’s Ivan Sutherland in this edition’s regional review. “This is the year where growers and companies have to work more closely together and equate volume with supply and demand”
There are plenty of positive perspectives in the seasonal update, and in Philip Gregan’s column on page 6, including a lower New Zealand dollar, an easing in supply chain destocking, and opportunities in new and traditional markets. Philip also highlights the excitement around Pinot Noir New Zealand 2025, to be held in Ōtautahi, Christchuch, on 11-13 February. In this edition Emma Jenkins MW sheds light on how far New Zealand Pinot has come, and the passionate winemakers and unique places behind some of our best examples. But she also delves into the significant headwinds Pinot producers face. “Plantings and exports have stagnated, domestic consumption is declining in line with global trends, and rising production costs are adding further pressure.”
“These are scary, exciting times for winos,” says Rippon’s Nick Mills, in the second part of a series on intergenerational winegrowing. Succession is a privilege, he says, feeling “ridiculously lucky” to be one of six kids in the fourth generation on their farm, connected to such a special place. But it’s also daunting. “Land and vines endure past a single lifetime, so intergenerational knowledge is critical. Yet farm succession is by far the hardest single agricultural activity to undertake”
This edition has stories of hearty optimism and healthy pragmatism, in an industry ready to survive, and hopefully thrive, through 2025.
Sophie Preece
Contributors
Emma Jenkins MW
Despite exciting raw material, committed producers, and global reputation, New Zealand Pinot Noir faces headwinds, writes Emma in her package of stories on the history and future of Pinot in New Zealand, on the cusp of Pinot Noir New Zealand 2025.
Go to page 20
Nick Mills
“At Rippon, we hope that the emotions people feel when they see and feel our place can help them understand why our vines are so happy here,” says Nick in a first person piece. “It is the vines’ ungrafted, unirrigated, intimate and ongoing connection to this place that makes the wines what they are.”
Go to page 32
Dr Edwin Massey
Edwin, New Zealand Winegrowers General Manager Sustainability, outlines the Environment Team’s focus areas of water, plant protection, and climate change in 2025, “and how this work will leave our industry, our world, and our wine better for it”.
Go to page 38
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From the CEO
Philip Gregan
2025 – making it positive
The New Year is well underway, and in January the first grapes of the new vintage were harvested in Northland. So, another year begins. Here’s hoping for lots of warm dry weather in coming weeks so that the industry once again delivers a vintage we can all be proud of. 2024 was a challenging year, with an export roller coaster, tourism back but not to pre-Covid 19 levels, costs on the up and up, falling demand for grapes for the upcoming vintage, and the global wine sector in general struggling in many markets. These trends confronted the industry head-on, impacting growers and wineries on a day-to-day basis, with the effects still being experienced as we begin 2025. However, there are developments that should help shape a more positive year ahead.
“These cost increases have been a huge burden on growers and wineries – they have eaten away at profitability, and undermined the confidence to invest in our brands, wineries and vineyards.”
Philip Gregan
Our Reputation: The reputation of New Zealand wine, our people, and our regions continues to be very strong in our key markets. Our reputation is the foundation on which the success of the industry has been built and will be built in the future. Investing in that reputation – quality, distinctive, sustainable wines, made with care by innovative growers and wineries – will deliver long term dividends, helping the industry prosper in the face of the inevitable challenges that the future will bring.
Pinot Noir New Zealand 2025: It is six long years since a major intentional wine event was held in Aotearoa, so it will be great to start the year with Pinot Noir New Zealand 2025 in Christchurch, the first time the event will be held in the Garden City. New Zealand Winegrowers is supporting the event with a strong contingent of overseas guests, who will not only attend this celebration but other activities across the country. This is a great opportunity to showcase the very best of our wines, our people, and our regions to an audience keen to grow their Kiwi wine knowledge and share it in their home markets.
30 years of SWNZ: Another reason to celebrate – 2025 marks 30 years of Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand (SWNZ), an anniversary well worth noting. Over the past three decades, SWNZ has become an integral part of the New Zealand wine landscape. From a small, vineyard focused trial programme, SWNZ has blossomed; it now certifies more than 96% of the vineyard area and the vast majority of the country’s wine production. It has
evolved with the sector and the markets as they have changed over that time. Looking forward, SWNZ must continue to costeffectively support and deliver credible sustainability credentials for growers and wineries.
Lower inflation: Rampant cost increases have been a major challenge since the inflation ‘genie got out of the bottle’ in the June 2021 quarter. For the three years from then to June 2024, inflation was consistently above the Reserve Bank’s target range of 1-3%.
From June 2021 to December 2024, the total CPI change was 19%, and all the data indicate on-farm (vineyard) increases were more than that. These cost increases have been a huge burden on growers and wineries – they have eaten away at profitability, and undermined the confidence to invest in our brands, wineries and vineyards. So, it is very pleasing that inflation in New Zealand (and globally) seems to be back under control. The latest New Zealand CPI data showing a 2.2% increase in 2024 is positive; hopefully this will be reflected in lower interest rates, and a more buoyant economy in 2025.
Lower $NZ: With close to 90% of New Zealand wine sales in offshore markets, changes in the value of the $NZ have a big bearing on the income wineries generate from exports. The Trade Weighted Index (which measures the value of the New Zealand dollar against the currencies of major trading partners) slipped quite sharply in the final quarter of 2024, a real positive for exporters. Of course, there is a flipside to the lower currency –more expensive input costs for imports – but for the moment we will take the lower $NZ as a plus.
End to supply chain destocking: Destocking of supply chains (which had built up with all the supply uncertainty during Covid-19) was clearly one of the major issues impacting wine businesses in 2023 and 2024. For many markets it looks as though that destocking process has finished, but in the United States industry analysts still believe inventories remain a challenge, even though the situation has improved on what it was. Hopefully 2025 will see the end of this process.
Market Opportunities: From talking to wineries, and by looking at export and in-market sales data, it is clear there are still plenty of opportunities, in both traditional and non-traditional markets, for our wines. In the lead up to Christmas in the United Kingdom, for example, New Zealand white wines had the biggest share of the market, with sales up 7% by value for the period – that’s a really strong performance. In a similar vein, exports to China, one of our newer markets, are now at record level, with China Customs data showing the value of New Zealand wine imports up 18% in the past year. Again, that’s a really strong story.
Of course, 2025 will bring its own challenges, but there are positives out there as well. All the best for the year ahead and a successful 2025 vintage.
Pinot Noir New Zealand 2025
Organising a premium Pinot Noir conference against the backdrop of an economic downturn and the decline in global wine sales is a tough business. But those headwinds make it even more important to “get together and scream and shout about how great New Zealand Pinot is. And to remind the world of that”, says Pinot Noir New Zealand 2025 committee Chair Michael Henley MW. “Because Pinot needs a shot now; it needs a little bit of excitement and this event is going to bring a little bit of joy to the great wine people present.”
From 11-13 February, Ōtautahi, Christchurch will be a Pinot paradise, with a packed three-day programme of 25 speakers from New Zealand and abroad, and opportunity to connect with 79 Pinot producers and an impressive array of influential wine writers, reviewers, sommeliers and retailers. It takes a lot of planning, programming and support, says Michael, thanking New Zealand Winegrowers, incredible sponsors and
speakers, and guests, both international and domestic. He also thanked his committee, the Pinot Bunch, who have spent the past 18 months planning the event, building on the work of the 2021 committee – led by Helen Masters and Pen Naish – which was foiled by Covid-19.
Most of all, Michael is looking forward to reconnecting with “global tastemakers”, who are coming down to New Zealand to share their perspective. “It’s a great programme, and there are some very influential people going to be here; we all need to make the most of this.”
Michael Henley MW
Urlar Architecture
Wairarapa wine producer Urlar has completed an extension to its winery, with larger red and white fermentation halls, a dedicated press hall, offices, laboratory testing, a cellar door and tasting room with lounge and dining spaces, and a commercial kitchen and supporting amenities. Wellington-based DLA Architects designed three-dimensional triangular accordion cedar clad walls, adjacent darker folded metal ‘armour’ screens, and triangular dormers, providing a contrast to Urlar’s organic, sustainable, biodynamic winegrowing practices. The existing modest winery building is repurposed as the barrel hall and surrounded by the new winery production and ancillary spaces, providing a four-fold increase in production space.
30 Years of SWNZ
This year Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand celebrates 30 years since the industry made a commitment to protecting the places that make its famous wines. SWNZ has evolved into a robust, independently audited programme that now certifies 96% of New Zealand’s vineyard area and approximately 90% of wine production by volume. New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) has developed a toolkit for members to use in driving awareness of the New Zealand wine industry’s commitment to a sustainable future. The SWNZ programme focuses on six key metrics: climate change, water, waste, plant protection, soil and people. Te Mata Estate was one of the first members of the initiative, and one of the first to have both winery and vineyard accredited under the system. “Having backed this from the start we’re immensely proud of the programme,” they wrote in an Instagram post using the NZW toolkit. nzwine.com/members/sustainability
Repost
Repost is set to hit the million-post mark in 2025, having processed more than 787,500 posts from vineyards. The Marlborough-based company was founded five years ago to tackle the issue of broken or replaced CCA treated vineyard posts being stored in stacks on vineyards or going to landfill. Instead they are repurposed into posts for farm fencing, diverting 8,711 tonnes from waste piles. With five portable machines working across Marlborough, Repost is now “a daily fixture” on most of the region’s vineyards, says co-founder Dansy Coppell, reflecting on “a blend of Kiwi ingenuity and some big sky thinking”. That ingenuity has been awarded in recent years, including in the Cawthron Marlborough Environment Awards 2023 Wine Category Award and the 2023 Beef & Lamb New Zealand Awards Gallagher Innovation Award. Last year Dansy won the Innovation Award in the Rural Women New Zealand Business Awards 2024.
A white Christmas
New Zealand wine enjoyed a white Christmas this year, as country-of-origin leader in the United Kingdom’s Still White Wine Category. In the four-week period leading up to 28 December 2024, value growth was up 7.3% and volume growth up 9.7%, compared to the same period last year. Annual Scan data compiled by Nielsen IQ shows New Zealand maintained a high average price of £8.09 per bottle, well above the market average of £6.69. Chris Stroud, NZW Market Manager UK Europe, says Sauvignon Blanc was the driver, accounting for £1 out of every £2 spent on Sauvignon Blanc in the UK. “However, we are also seeing increased listings and performance with other white New Zealand varieties, such as Pinot Gris, which offers an opportunity for retailers to further ‘premium-ise’ the category.”
B Corp
Marlborough wine producer Lawson’s Dry Hills has become B Corp Certified. Director and General Manager Sion Barnsley says the company has a vision to lead New Zealand in sustainable wine production. “As a B Corp, we now join a movement of businesses committed to transforming the global economy to benefit all people, communities and the planet.” Other B Corp wine companies in New Zealand include Tiraki and Deep Down, both in Marlborough, and Felton Road in Central Otago.
Indevin Group Winemaker
More than two decades after his first vintage as a cellar hand at Villa Maria, Dave Roper has been appointed Group Winemaker for Indevin, overseeing winemaking teams in Hawke’s Bay, Gisborne, and Marlborough. Dave studied Medical Laboratory Science at university, majoring in microbiology, followed by seven years working in hospital laboratories in Auckland. But the discovery of wine in his early 20s grew into more than a hobby, and by 2002 Dave had completed a Certificate in Winemaking at EIT in Hawke’s Bay, as well as his first vintage, at Villa Maria in Mangere. He says the past 20 years have been a time of extraordinary growth for the New Zealand wine industry. “Consumers around the world have continued to discover and fall in love with Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, a wine style with such distinction and sense of place.” New Zealand has become “globally renowned” for its focus on sustainability and innovation. “We’ve always had a focus on quality, and that has helped us build value in critical markets, grow the industry and fly the flag.”
He says the challenge for the industry now is getting through a period of high stock inventories in some markets, leading to a short-term oversupply. “It’s been tough but we know we can get through it. Other challenges, which are also opportunities, are adapting to climate changes, managing and revitalising ageing vineyards, invigorating and inspiring a new generation of wine consumers, and adapting to changing export market landscapes.” New Zealand remains a premium producer of quality wine and retains a high average price point on shelf, he says. “There’s an opportunity to build on this, leverage the strength of brand New Zealand, tell our stories and capitalise on the world-class wines we know we make. As a cool climate winegrowing region, we are positioned well to dynamically adapt to a changing climate through our can-do and creative approach.”
Winning shot
Te Mata vineyard manager Carl Gunderson has won the top prize in the BASF New Zealand AgriPhoto competition, with an image of handpicking fruit in Havelock Hills. Weekly winners were chosen from hundreds of entries across the country. Carl took the grand prize with his shot of a Recognised Seasonal Employer scheme worker from Vanuatu. He loves the winning image as it shows the worker’s emotion, blue skies and perfect fruit. “It’s easy to forget how much effort goes into each glass of wine, but hopefully my photography helps people understand a little bit better of the effort that is required.”
Oraterra
JOELLE THOMSON
Oraterra translates to golden earth, reflecting the value of great vineyard sites in Martinborough, including that from which winemaker Wilco Lam is now making wines. “We wanted a name that we could own rather than the previous name of the vineyard site – On Giants’ Shoulders – and one of the things that kept popping up was to focus on wines that were textural and related to Martinborough as a place, rather than looking at its specific geographic features.” The first trio of Oraterra wines, launched in late 2024, are a Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir made from the challenging 2023 vintage. The brand is backed by German investors, who made it possible to purchase one of Martinborough’s oldest vineyards on Princess Street. “The heritage of great vineyard sites is incredibly important and I hope the Oraterra wines pay homage to the land from which they are made,” Wilco says.
Photo by Carl Gunderson
To have events added to our calendar contact sophie@sophiepreece.co.nz
Marlborough Wine & Food Festival
8 February
marlboroughwinefestival.com
Mitch James, Ladyhawke, Hello Sailor, Sweet Mix Kids, and Jaydin Shingleton will take to the main stage at the Marlborough Wine & Food Festival, while Marlborough musicians entertain from the acoustic area, and the DJ collective Vinyl in the Vines graces the Groove Garden. “Marlborough’s best wine and food is at the centre of this iconic festival,” says event manager Loren Coffey. “In the same way we curate more than 30 wineries and 20 food providers, we choose the performers very carefully.”
Pinot Noir
New Zealand 2025
11-13 February
pinotnz.co.nz
With an inspirational line up of 25 speakers, a curated guest list of national and international Pinot lovers, a who’s who of New Zealand’s premium producers, and a programme dedicated to place, this three-day event in Ōtautahi, Christchurch promises to be educational, entertaining, influential and downright delicious. Read more on Pinot, and its place in New Zealand, on pages 20-25.
Pinot Palooza
12 February
pinotpalooza.com.au
Australia’s Pinot party is back in New Zealand for a one-off celebration in partnership with Pinot Noir New Zealand 2025 in Christchurch. Revel founder Dan Sims, whose career tracks from award-winning sommelier to global event pioneer, is one of the speakers at the Pinot conference, discussing the democratisation of wine.
Wairarapa Harvest Festival
15 February
wairarapaharvestfestival.co.nz
The Provincial Insurance Brokers Wairarapa Wines Harvest Festival brings together the region’s finest wineries, along with highprofile restaurants and passionate food producers, for a day of indulgence against a picturesque riverside setting.
Roam Central 2025
15-16 February
roamcentral.co.nz
A weekend of immersive wine experiences in the heart of Central Otago, including Wine Exploration Events and the Grand Tasting, offering wine lovers a rare opportunity to explore the best of the region’s world-class wines, food, and breathtaking landscapes.
With a theme of Resilience in Action - Building Regenerative Communities through Climate Innovation and NatureBased Solutions, this annual event is dedicated to driving climate action and impact in the Marlborough region by fostering collaboration, promoting education, and inspiring actionable change within the business community.
Brand Health Webinar
26 February
nzwine.com/members/brand/webinar Brand recognition and taste are the main drivers of wine purchase across the four markets assessed in the latest IWSR research, tracking the brand health of New Zealand Wine. New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) Intel and Insights expert Richard Lee and General Manager Brand Charlotte Read will share insights into the research in a member webinar.
Read more on page 13.
North
Canterbury
Wine & Food Festival
9 March
ncwineandfood.co.nz
Celebrate the harvest at the 2025 North Canterbury Wine & Food Festival. Attendees can find pockets of entertainment under the oaks, immerse themselves in conversations about local wine and produce, and fall in love with everything North Canterbury has to offer.
F.A.W.C
14-23 March
fawc.co.nz
The programme for Hawke’s Bay Tourism’s Food and Wine Classic (F.A.W.C) is out, with events at restaurants, cafes, vineyards, bars, and secret locations across the region. Highlights include an event with gastronomic author Peta Mathias at a French-themed dinner at the newly refurbished Pask Winery. “I like interactive audiences so I hope people ask lots of questions about the perfect lunch in the South of France, the perfect wine, the meaning of life, and why you beat eggs till stiff.”
Yealands
Peta Mathias
Ladyhawke
Ripe Festival
22 March
ripewanaka.nz
The Ripe Wānaka Wine and Food Festival will be back at Glendhu Bay in March, with 26 Central Otago wineries combined with an array of delicious food, live music and stunning scenery. The 2025 event includes the “Wine Walk Series” featuring guided wine tours to meet local winemakers and enjoy curated tastings and food pairings.
Grape Days 2025
5 June – Central Otago
10 June – Marlborough
12 June – Hawke’s Bay Grape Days are funded by the NZW levy, delivered through Bragato Research Institute. Now in its 17th year, the oneday technical events, held in Hawke’s Bay, Marlborough, and Central Otago, provide high-level overviews of research with a practical focus to help members apply the findings.
Organic & Biodynamic
Winegrowing Conference
16-18 June
organicwineconference.com
The Organic & Biodynamic Winegrowing Conference has a fantastic line up of speakers, including Joseph Brinkley, Director of Regenerative Organic Farming at Bonterra Organic Estates in the United States; Rajat Parr, an organic winegrower who has become a big name in the US wine scene; Dr Mary Retallack, an agroecologist and viticulturist at Retallack in South Australia; and Dr Mike Joy, a New Zealand freshwater specialist and advocate. It also includes Katia Nussbaum, who runs a regenerative organic winery in southern Tuscany with her husband Luigi. “Trained in social anthropology, Katia has a unique and beautiful perspective on wine and will speak on their viti-forestry project, climate change action and biodiversity,” says conference
Save the Date
ICCWS
iccws2026.nz
25-28 January 2026
The 11th International Cool Climate Wine Symposium will be held in Ōtautahi Christchurch in January 2026. Speakers include Dr Patricia Skinkis, Professor & Viticulture Extension Specialist with the Oregon Wine Research Institute at Oregon State University in the United States, and Dr Kai Voss-Fels, Head of Department of Plant Breeding at Hochschule Geisenheim University in Germany. Presenters also include Anne Escalle, General Manager of Edmond de Rothschild Heritage Wines New Zealand, Nick Lane, Head Winemaker at Defined Wine Ltd in Kent, England, and Roy Urvieta, Winemaker at Catena Institute of Wine and Domaine Nico in Mendoza, Argentina. More speakers
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Growing the reputation of New Zealand Wine
Charlotte Read Read On
What an exciting year lies ahead, kicking off with high impact in mid-February, when we welcome our hosted guests for Pinot Noir New Zealand 2025 in Ōtautahi, Christchurch. The New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) Major Events Strategy recognises that attracting a group of influential media and trade at one time, in order to share knowledge and ideas, collectively witness New Zealand’s wine industry putting its best foot forward, and travel through our diverse and contrasting wine regions, is impossible to replicate. We are looking forward to reading perspectives and insights from visiting media and trade, which help build and strengthen global awareness of the premium New Zealand Wine brand. It’s been six years since a major international wine event has been held in New Zealand, and eight years since the last Pinot Noir conference, so there is extra excitement about this opportunity for our industry to shine. A massive thanks to all involved, no matter
Joining Forces in the UK and Ireland
Kicking off 2025 on the other side of the globe was the UK/Ireland Annual Trade Tasting, run at the end of January as a collaboration between NZW and Wine Australia. Both organisations have hosted their flagship Annual Trade Tasting events since the 1980s, but this was the first joint initiative, following other successful collaborations. Events were held in Dublin, London and Edinburgh, with the three-city tour including more than 1,000 wines from 200 brands, spanning 54 regions in Australia and New Zealand.
“Wine Australia and New Zealand Winegrowers joining forces is great news for the trade.”
Mark Stephenson
Chris Stroud, NZW Market Manager UK Europe, says last year the trade tastings were a week apart and in the same venue in London. “Teaming up enabled importers to showcase a wider portfolio at one event, and it helped buyers, retailers and sommeliers get the most out of a day away from their business.” Mark
how big or small the contribution. It takes a team effort from across our membership and regions to take centre stage, and give depth of meaning to why New Zealand Wine is altogether unique.
Stephenson, Director at retailer Grape and Grain, said the collaboration was a fantastic initiative, which he attended to seek out new wines. “Wine Australia and NZW joining forces is great news for the trade. There’s synergy between the two countries, the wines are complementary, and the joint event helped buyers juggle busy schedules.”
Laura Jewell MW, Wine Australia Regional General Manager UK/EMEA, notes that Aussies and Kiwis have lots of things in common: “Fine wine, great
food, stunning scenery, the cool Southern Ocean, and a friendly laid-back attitude.”
The tasting showcased Australia and New Zealand’s distinctive terroirs, vibrant winemaking communities, and “thrilling wines”, she said. “In competitive markets such as the UK and Ireland, we must continue to be innovative in how we showcase the breadth of our wines to trade, and the response to our collaboration in other markets has resulted in success for producers on both sides of the Tasman.”
Charlotte Read is NZW General Manager Brand
From left, Sarah Shepherd and Chris Stroud of New Zealand Winegrowers with Emma Baumann, Laura Jewell MW, and Emma Symington MW, from Wine Australia.
Intel and Insights: brand health tracking
The growing trend for authentic and sustainable purchases aligns well with New Zealand wine. According to new research released by New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) in its third wave of Brand Health Tracking, the trend has generally increased in importance for all markets measured by IWSR.
NZW Intel and Insights expert Richard Lee says the research shows Baby Boomers tend to resist paying more or giving up convenience to help tackle climate change, but Gen Zs and Millennials show higher levels of engagement with sustainability, with more regular wine drinkers from these age cohorts willing to pay more and give up convenience for ecofriendly products.
That’s good news for New Zealand wine, because the findings – from the United States, United Kingdom, Australia and New Zealand – reveals that New Zealand wine is more strongly associated with environmental factors and sustainability than the other new world
wine countries of interest. The association is particularly strong in the UK and US, Richard says.
NZW General Manager Brand Charlotte Read says it’s fitting to release the findings in the 30th year of Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand. “It’s great to know that sustainability is increasingly becoming a factor in purchasing decisions. We have been discussing, measuring and reducing environmental impacts for three decades now, so we are more than ready for this social conscience purchasing trend.”
In more general Brand Health metrics, the research shows that of the 123 million regular wine drinkers (RWD) across the four markets, 57m are aware of New Zealand wine, and 22m consume it.
“Opportunity lies in the US in converting those aware of New Zealand wine into buyers,” Richard says. “There are 22.5 million RWD’s in the US who are aware of New Zealand wine but are not yet consuming it.”
The proportion of loyal buyers has increased significantly and the proportion of unawares has declined, Richard adds. “The potential for significant growth remains with around one third of RWD’s who have not yet purchased but are open to the future purchase of New Zealand wine.”
Brand recognition and taste are the main drivers of purchase across all markets tested. “However, in the US, grape variety and value for money are a particularly strong driver of purchase, which can be capitalised on with the growing popularity of white wine varietals to improve New Zealand wine’s position.” Trust is a strong driver across all markets, Richard adds. “As consumers increasingly seek authenticity, sustainability, and products from trusted origins, New Zealand’s alignment with these drivers positions it well to benefit from these global trends.”
Learn more at a webinar on 26 February. nzwine.com/members/brand/webinar.
LCBO Q&A
Marie Cundari is Senior Director of New World Wines in the Ontario Liquor Control Board, one of the world’s largest buyers and retailers of alcoholic beverages. In the lead up to a visit to New Zealand in February, as a guest of New Zealand Winegrowers, she shares some insights into the strategic position of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.
What is the strategic role of New Zealand wine in your business?
It is unique to other wine categories in that it is white dominant (95% share) and almost singularly focused on one varietal, Sauvignon Blanc. Customers love New Zealand’s signature style of Sauvignon Blanc. With the growing trend towards refreshing white wines, New Zealand is well-poised to continue to meet customer needs. New Zealand commands strong brand loyalty among customers in our market. In terms of sales, it holds three of the top 10 import SKUs – Kim Crawford, Oyster Bay, Stoneleigh – which are strategically important to the growth of the category and the wine portfolio overall. New Zealand is also a premium wines category at the Ontario Liquor Control Board (LCBO), with one of the highest net dollar sales per litre. As such, this category is important as we look to continue to fuel growth of premium-priced wines.
How does New Zealand wine currently perform in your business?
New Zealand ranks 6th in terms of total
wine sales and is outpacing other key producing regions such as the United States, Italy, France and Australia. New Zealand is also the only top ten wine region that is showing positive growth while other regions are in decline.
How significant is the no and low alcohol wine trend in the Canadian and LCBO market?
Lighter options continue to be the popular choice among wine customers as more Ontarians are looking to moderate their alcohol consumption. Total no/low alcohol wines represent 5.8% share of total wine sales at $111 million, growing 0.2%. We have recently expanded our range of de-alcoholised wine, including still red, white and sparkling, and are seeing a great customer response. While on a very small base of sales, de-alcoholised wines are growing 100%, with total sales of $1.725m. Low alcohol wines, between 1% and 9% ABV, are also gaining in popularity, with
total sales of $106m, up 0.3%, outpacing wines above 9% ABV. Within this assortment, New Zealand has a dominant share at 26% with only four SKUs. New Zealand’s low alcohol sales are $26m and outpacing other low alcohol wines.
How important are sustainability and organic certifications?
LCBO Spirit of Sustainability is our social impact platform. Within this framework, we are working to improve our process to identify sustainable products, and also to amplify the work of our sustainable partners through instore and online promotions, via integrated marketing campaigns. Our research indicates that customers, particularly Gen-Z and Millennials, do prefer brands that align to their social values, including organic and sustainable. However, customers are not necessarily willing to pay a premium for these values, so product offerings need to be priced competitively. Given there is a global standard certification for organic wines, we are able to identify and promote these products for customers. However, sustainability does not have a global definition, and we do not identify products within our system as such. For customers to understand and identify sustainably certified products, New Zealand suppliers should ensure products carry a trust mark and make it easy for customers to access their country’s sustainability protocol to validate the claim. New Zealand Winegrowers and LCBO collaborate on initiatives to drive awareness by promoting the sustainability message for New Zealand.
Marie Cundari
Organic Conference
Nick Pett is Committee Co-chair for the Organic & Biodynamic Winegrowing Conference, taking place in Marlborough from 16-18 June. In the first of a series of Q&A on the event, Nick considers the importance of curiosity and creativity.
This event is... organised by Organic Winegrowers New Zealand, a grower-led organisation aiming to further support our members and organic winegrowers. Planning starts well in advance, with more than 18 months and countless hours spent organising speaker programmes, travel, venues and events. This is the fifth conference, with the event held biennially since 2015, with the exception of 2021 due to Covid-19.
It is designed to… bring together our community – organic to conventional, big to small. We aim for a diverse range of speakers, sharing everything from scientific research and technical knowledge to climate and market updates, along with insights and stories from local and international growers. We hope there is something educational and inspiring for everyone.
Organic winegrowing is… more than just a system; it is a way of living. We need to work closely in harmony with nature and think about the overall health of the system – our soil, our plants, our animals, our people. We need to arm ourselves with knowledge and the tools to work within these systems and not against them. I am not sure anyone can farm perfectly, but staying curious, thinking creatively, and looking inwards to make improvements and a positive difference to the land that we are working with, are all important aspects of organic growing.
A conference highlight will be… hearing from Joseph Brinkley from Bonterra, the largest certified regenerative organic vineyard in the United States. It is really exciting to see a positive business model of significant scale showing that growing organically stacks up. Joseph will talk about how they farm, the value of certification, and how this has helped them to continue to grow their market share, including growth of 16% in the first quarter of 2024, when the market has been trending downwards.
Our social gatherings include… different events each evening of the conference. My personal favourite is the New Zealand Organic Tasting. It is open to all of our attendees and sponsors and is full of such positive energy with everyone in the room.
organicwineconference.com
IT WOULD BE STINK IF THESE GOT INTO NEW
ZEALAND
The brown marmorated stink bug is a pest that infests homes, ruins gardens, stinks when crushed, and is almost impossible to get rid of. It could also destroy our fruit and vegetable industries. It’s not in New Zealand yet, and we want to keep it that way. So if you see one, don’t kill it. Catch it, take a photo, and call us on 0800 80 99 66.
For more information (including how to identify the bug) visit biosecurity.govt.nz/stinkbug
From left, Lou Leggett, Nick Pett and Jess Barnes at the 2023 Organic and Biodynamic Winegrowing Conference. Photo Lisa Duncan
Grape expectations
The route to vintage seldom runs smooth, with the vagaries of nature and market dictating every turn. With a resplendent flowering tailed by a gloomy summer, and some supply lines still in surplus, SOPHIE PREECE learns that vintage 2025 will require careful navigation.
Marlborough
Nature gave Marlborough grape growers bumper crop levels this year, with high inflorescence initiation and a stellar Sauvignon Blanc flowering. But with a wine surplus, yield caps and cool January conditions, along with the risk of pre-harvest rain, the region would have fared better with a cool flowering and warm summer, not the other way around, says viticulturist Stephen Dempster.
It’s a vintage that requires cooperation, says viticulturist and Dog Point Vineyard founder Ivan Sutherland. “This is the year where growers and companies have to work more closely together and equate volume with supply and demand.”
Stephen says prudent winegrowers have dropped crop, with some going in relatively early to cut canes, as a “fairly brutal” way of reducing yield significantly, and at less cost than bunch thinning. Others have used mechanical shaking, but the 10 -15% reduction would not necessarily be sufficient for the high yielding year. As well as thinning crops, they would be looking to reduce clumped areas, to mitigate disease risk if La Niña brings wet weather in the lead
Vineyard values pull back
A projected lower price for fruit, capping of yields, and increases in growing costs are seeing vineyard values reduced. Bayleys Marlborough viticulture specialist Mike Poff says the past 18 months have seen a general reduction in value in Marlborough, with those drops impacted by several factors, included contracts and vineyard investment. Where growers have invested in refurbishing/ replanting their vineyards, or started that process, the results are definitely better. Likewise, vineyards with a good contract or lease are of “significantly higher value” than
up to vintage. “NIWA keep suggesting that the weather events are getting more extreme no matter what. That’s another concern for the future,” Stephen says.
“Warm settled weather with the cooler nights would be ideal through to late March.”
Ivan Sutherland
“I think Mother Nature is having a bit of a laugh,” says Matt Mitchell, Marisco’s General Manager of Wineries, acknowledging a perfect storm of potentially record-breaking bunch weights, tough international markets, the large 2022 and 2023 vintages, a cool Christmas and new year period, and forecasts for “mediocre” weather.
But he’s of the ‘that which does not kill you makes you stronger’ mindset, seeing opportunity for Marisco, and Marlborough, to learn from the season, grow
its knowledge, and be better prepared for future challenges. “We’ve had a number of these vintages in the last five years. And I do think that the collective Marlborough IP is such that we know how to handle them,” Matt says. “The cleverness of your average Marlborough winemaker is such that we’ll make good calls.”
Marisco is using the season to learn more, harnessing the luxury of autonomy – with its own wineries, vineyards and
blocks with uncontracted fruit, Mike says. Buyers tend to be individuals, or investment groups or companies, looking strategically at return on investment, with banks measuring up the assets against margins for growers and wine companies. “The fruit price is impacting on the value of these assets and the bankability of them.” However, the region has been in a position of oversupply before and he’s hopeful that within 18 months to two years the market will regain buoyancy. “I am positive in five years’ time we will be in a completely different place.”
Matt Mitchell
Mike Poff
Framingham Wines
harvesters – to run trial work. That includes mechanical shaking on selected blocks, for crop reduction and disease mitigation – removing trash from the internal parts of the bunch. They’ve also cut canes on some blocks, to compare that as a yield management tool, as well as traditional canopy work on ultra-premium blocks, with bunch removal and leaf management. “So, I think at the end of this intake period, we’ll have quite a comprehensive look at strategies around managing these really large harvests, where the weather is less than ideal.”
From a winery perspective, they have assessed current supplies, along with demand, and are heading into vintage with a range of strategies, exploiting their ability to be nimble. That includes decisions to not make certain wines this year, because they
Yield & ripening
The overriding influence determining the duration of ripening appears to be vine yield, says Dr Mike Trought. Research published in VineFacts with Rob Agnew at Plant & Food Research in 1996 , suggests
have good volumes of quality ’23 and ’24 vintages. “We can be really focused on our bread and butter, on our core brands and our core varietals, and just do the absolute best job we can with those.” Matt says tricky seasons are going to come more frequently, and having techniques developed in seasons like this one, “broadening our knowledge base from a winegrowing perspective”, will be invaluable in the long run.
Ivan, who has more than 40 vintages under his belt, including 20 years at Dog Point, has a buoyant perspective on 2025. Speaking on 23 January, he says the vineyards look “picture perfect” after a “nice even budburst”, spring rain, warm dry weather over flowering and fruit set, then a cooling to slow things down. That cool shift is good for flavours and compositional balance, and for keeping disease risk low
that a Sauvignon Blanc vineyard producing about 7 tonnes per hectare, or 3kg per vine, can expect to reach 21.5 Brix 33 days after véraison (8 Brix), while those with around 18T/ha (8kg/vine) will take 58 days. Those
he says. “Warm settled weather with the cooler nights would be ideal through to late March.”
To the west, Neudorf’s General Manager
Todd Stevens says Nelson’s flowering weather was “some of the best we’ve seen”, with crop loads looking “pretty solid” as a
findings are extrapolated from 10 years of data from a single site, showing that at between 3.5 and 7kg per vine, the duration of ripening (8 to 21.5 Brix) increased by five days for each additional 1kg in vine yield.
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Todd Stevens
result. But the weather between Christmas and 24 January was dreary and the region’s growers are hoping summer will shift up a gear. “From a growing point of view if the season doesn’t buck its ideas up, with this crop load, it could be a bumpy finish.” With the economic headwinds, wine companies are watching their pennies, sticking to their knitting, and adopting a mantra he’s learned from Marlborough colleagues: “survive through ‘25”.
Maxwell
North Canterbury
In North Canterbury, Greystone winemaker Dom Maxwell welcomed the cool change in late December, following a run of hot weather in the lead up to Christmas. “We were going into what felt like drought conditions,” he says. Then the “switch
“From a quality point of view, I’m really happy.”
Dom Maxwell
was flicked” and cooler days made for healthier vines and better canopy. “And it’s slowed the season down, which has been a weight off the vineyard team’s mind.” Despite inclement conditions, there’s been no increase in disease pressure, thanks to temperatures peaking at 15-17C, “which is not ideal for disease growth”, he says. “From a quality point of view, I’m really happy.”
Central Otago
Ever the outlier, Central Otago’s growing season is in a contrast to the rest of the country, with summer temperatures up to 28C. “Nature really likes Central Otago grape growers,” says viticulturist Timbo Deaker on 22 January, having just called the volunteer firefighters out to a Bannockburn vineyard, where a mower sparked flames in tinder dry conditions. While other regions are characterised by January’s grey skies and cool temperatures, Central Otago is on fire watch.
“Nature really likes Central Otago grape growers.”
Timbo Deaker
The region, excluding Gibbston and Alexandra, had major frost damage in the first week of November 2024, leading to expectations of a 25% drop on the normal crush. But, despite a “turbulent” and wet spring, Central enjoyed a “remarkably successful”, very uniform flowering period, lifting yield expectations to 10-15% below average. “Again, Mother Nature has been very generous to us, as she has over the last five years,” Timbo says.
He’s positive about the lead up to harvest, given expectations of La Niña weather conditions, which can be challenging for the rest of New Zealand’s wine regions, “whereas it’s remarkably kind and generous to us”. It’s a good year for below average production, given downward pressure on the economy and wine markets, he adds. But while wine times are tough, he’s feeling glass half full as he watches Central Otago Pinot Noirs slip off the bulk wine market. “That’s the first kind of sign of things improving.”
North Island - Auckland
Auckland had a very good flowering season, “so the yields are healthy but not excessive”, says Kumeu River Winemaker
What happened to summer?
James Morrison, who supplies the Winegrower Magazine ‘Weather Watch’, says predictions were for a cracking La Niña summer with hotter than average temperatures. But a chill shift around Christmas put a dampener on those plans. “Whilst a few cool and wet days
during summer can happen from time to time, it was the prolonged nature of this event that has been most evident and will take further study to understand. As warmer conditions have returned later in January, it is still possible that the remainder of summer and early autumn
Michael Brajkovich on 24 January. “The fruit looks very good indeed.” Summer to date has been cool, with the warmest temperature 27C in mid-December. “So far in January we have had one day reach 25C,” Michael says. “The best thing is that recent conditions have been dry. December had 74mm of rain, but so far in January only 16mm. We expect to start the sparkling wine harvest sometime around Waitangi Day, and the Chardonnay table wine pick a couple of weeks after that.”
Gisborne
Mark Thompson, Chief Winemaker at GisVin and Chair of Gisborne Winegrowers, says “exceptional” flowering and good bunch sizes suggest a good average crop for the region. But, like most of the country, a cool switch in late December brought gloomy, rainy conditions. Speaking on 24 January, the kind of sunny day (“blowing like the proverbial, drying everything out very quickly”) he’d like to see more of, Mark says fruit looks clean. He also notes that
“We have definitely developed our toolkit
over 2022 and 2023 ,
and we are certainly producing better wines as a result.”
Mark Thompson
the region’s growers and winemakers have learned a lot in recent rain-afflicted harvests. “We have definitely developed our toolkit over 2022 and 2023, and we are certainly producing better wines as a result.” But tough international markets, and reduced demand from Marlborough wineries, have impacted Gisborne, he adds. “There appears to be a lot of stock carried over from ‘23 and ‘24.”
will see temperatures closer to average. However the five-week period of weather that resembled early September will certainly put a dent in the temperature averages and growing degree day totals for this summer.” Read more on page 40.
Dom
Hawke’s Bay
Looking through a Chardonnay lens, winemaker Tony Bish says flowering set Hawke’s Bay up well, with moderate crops welcomed by growers after two tough years. Hawke’s Bay’s yields were down 37% in 2024, in a blow to a region hit hard by Cyclone Gabrielle the previous harvest. Speaking on 24 January, Tony was feeling optimistic about the season, with vineyards looking “pristine”, and good bunch numbers spread out. “We are set up well, to be honest.” He’s been surprised to find some hen and chicken on clones typically not affected by Millerandage, “but that’s kind of really good for flavour, so it actually looks good”.
In the lead up to Christmas, forecasts were for an early harvest, but with a climatic shift on Boxing Day bringing cooler, south westerly air flows and a drop in growing degree days, the season is relaxing back to more typical timing. There’s been a little rain, but “nothing problematic”, with the vineyards progressing despite dreary days. Tony welcomes the likely return to a March picking window, noting that early February harvests can be beset with heat. From late January onwards is the critical period, he adds. “Hopefully summer comes back and all will be well.” When it comes to the risk of vintage rain events, which have been
painfully frequent in recent years, he says it’s a week-by-week watch. “We just seem to be getting a lot of weather.”
Meanwhile on the sales front, Tony Bish Wines isn’t carrying any surplus stock over, and had record sales months in September, October and December of 2024, with Australia, New Zealand and the United Kingdom all performing well. “Chardonnay has had a good year and we are really looking forward to releasing the ‘24s which are, of course, especially good.”
Viticulturist Emma Taylor is reluctant to jinx what’s looking like a good season (“you don’t want to make the viticulturist and winemaker curse, in saying it’s too good”) but is feeling quietly upbeat. “Before Christmas it was so stinking hot and I was quite worried in Hawke’s Bay about how early we would need to pick. Then of course we’ve had this less-than-ideal January weather, where it’s been cooler and wetter and we’re no longer facing a drought.”
The inclement weather, with a good dose of wind, has brought the season’s timing back into alignment, she says, seeing the district go into veraison in late January, as she’d expect. There’s some talk of disease pressure, thanks to the change in conditions “but I haven’t seen any out there myself, she says.
Even with heightened disease risk, the change in weather eased water pressures, with people looking at half of their consents gone before Christmas. “We would have been in a stress position this time of year no matter what.”
Going forward, the strong likelihood of La Niña conditions, with risk of subtropical lows and increased rainfall on New Zealand’s east coast, is a concern, given the wet vintages Hawke’s Bay has been dealt in recent La Niña years. “But my hope is that it comes at the end of harvest and not during.”
Wairarapa
Excellent spring conditions resulted in “amazing” flowering and good crop levels in Wairarapa, says Wairarapa Winegrowers Association Chair Wilco Lam, partner and winemaker at Oraterra. But predictions of an early harvest were dampened by the cool and wet Christmas and new year conditions, which boosted vegetative growth and vineyard workloads, while setting the vintage dates back to a more typical March start. “Now everything has greened up and is fresh,” says Wilco, who is “super happy”, looking forward to a temperature boost in February to carry crops into harvest.
“We are only doing minimal crop thinning –more of a manicure really – which is a lovely position to be in.”
Helen Masters
Ata Rangi Winemaker Helen Masters welcomed the change to cooler weather after the warm start to the growing season. “For us now, if we have no rain for the rest of the season it’ll be magic.” Crops are not particularly even, some canes have no fruit, and a lot of the bunches are not carrying a shoulder, which is great, she says. “We are only doing minimal crop thinning – more of a manicure really – which is a lovely position to be in.”
With weather-beset 2022 and 2023 growing seasons resulting in light crops, growers will want good crop levels to follow the “phenomenal” 2024, Wilco says. Speaking on January 20, the day after Toast Martinborough packed the region with wine-lovers, he says the depressed Wellington economy does impact on the region’s producers, but an influx of tourists and day visitors is keeping Wairarapa wines pouring.
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Tony Bish
Passion for Pinot
On the cusp of Pinot Noir New Zealand 2025, to be held in Christchurch Ōtautahi 11-13 February, EMMA JENKINS MW reflects on the current state of New Zealand Pinot Noir and where it could and should be heading.
In 2003, The Times’ Jane MacQuitty told her readers, “Tuck into Central Otago Pinot Noir, at last Burgundy has a serious New World rival.” It was a thrilling endorsement for a variety which only five years prior had snuck past Cabernet Sauvignon to become New Zealand’s most planted red variety, albeit at a modest 596 hectares. By 2003 this had mushroomed to 2,624ha, and today New Zealand ranks fourth globally, with 5,613ha of Pinot Noir vineyards, and wines that continue to earn global acclaim.
The country’s rapid ascent in quality and reputation is driven by inherently suitable growing conditions, improved viticultural practices, and refined winemaking techniques. However, it’s not all plain sailing. Plantings and exports have stagnated, domestic consumption is declining in line with global trends, and rising production costs are adding further pressure.
Pioneers set the vision New Zealand’s Pinot Noir history dates back to the late 1880s, with early plantings in Hawke’s Bay and Wairarapa. The modern era began in the late 1970s and early 1980s, with tiny outposts in West Auckland, Canterbury, Wairarapa and Central Otago. Nobilo’s 1976 Huapai Pinot Noir became one of the first widely recognised quality examples, and Babich’s 1981 Henderson Pinot Noir won the first Pinot Noir gold medal at the New Zealand Easter Show. Danny Schuster’s 1982 St Helena Canterbury Pinot Noir was a seminal wine, with writer Bob Campbell MW claiming that it did for Pinot Noir what Te Mata Coleraine did for Bordeaux blends, providing “a beacon for others to follow”.
The early pioneers of Martinborough, in particular, established a high-quality bar and drove technical collaboration with initiatives such as the Pinot Workshop, and a celebration that culminated in 2001’s first international Pinot Conference in Wellington. Inspired by these successes, plantings increased, with a notable southward trend due to the variety’s preference for cooler regions. Today, Wairarapa south dominates production, with Central Otago alone accounting for nearly 30% of the country’s Pinot plantings, despite having just 5% of its vineyards.
With Burgundy’s model a clear roadmap, New Zealand has benefited from the practice of winemakers undertaking northern hemisphere harvests alongside a reciprocal inwards flow. Winemaking
A commitment to single vineyards
EMMA JENKINS MW
The concept of single vineyard wines has become fundamental to Pinot Noir, largely due to the Cistercian Burgundian model. For some winemakers, this is predetermined by their vineyard, but for others it represents a deliberate pursuit.
Sophie Parker-Thomson MW, co-owner of Blank Canvas with her husband Matt Thomson, says it was the only way forward. “We are big believers in the detail and focus you get from a specific site, which gets lost when blended away. It’s why we chose to be 100% single vineyard bottlings from day one. It creates the opportunity to learn more about your own sites, subregions and region, and by extension provides that same opportunity to consumers and gatekeepers.”
Matt helped develop Saint Clair’s single vineyard-focused Pioneer Block wines more than 25 years ago, born out of a frustration of blending away tanks that looked special. “When we started making the individual Pioneer Block wines, we had quite a bit of push-back from people who thought that consumers wouldn’t be interested. They were wrong.” He notes that a sense of place is crucial to “high involvement consumers” and sommeliers,
and viticultural learning curves have been steep, and over time a more nuanced, site-responsive approach has emerged, prioritising the expression of terroir over heavy-handed winemaking techniques. It’s something Paul Pujol, from Prophet’s Rock, describes as “walking a line of empathy”.
As vines have aged, the interplay between site and clone has also become clearer. There are now many more single vineyard wines, although it is too early to tell if they are genuinely superior or simply different. Of course, the former can’t be established if the latter aren’t pursued, and great wine should always be based upon something tangible rather than created solely by ambitious winemaking or marketing. Indeed, this slow shift from ambition via winemaking to one more focused on greater transmission of site is an extremely important one – after all, a variety can be grown anywhere but place is forever unique.
New Zealand Pinot’s evolution has not only been place-centric. The past decade in particular has seen a marked shift toward style diversity, with a burst of natural and ‘nouveau’ wines, plus the odd foray into blends. While generously fruited, silky wines remain a cornerstone, there is a growing emphasis on age-worthy styles.
Jane Skilton MW wrote in her recent Inside Burgundy report on Central Otago: “Some wines were really quite reticent and needed time in the glass to show their character. In these wines tannins were impactful… this is an exciting change. New Zealand needs to cement its place as a producer of the very
who always want to engage and learn. “As soon as this group think they know all there is to know about a region then they lose interest.”
Sophie believes it’s an exciting time for Pinot Noir as more producers pursue single vineyard wines, seeing it as a sign of maturity in our young industry. The model also benefits growers, whose pride increases when their grapes are bottled as a single vineyard wine, she says. With relationships spanning 25 to 30 years, and a shared commitment to quality, they trust their partners will grow exceptional fruit. “We’re small in the Marlborough scheme, but connecting growers with the business reinforces why quality over quantity matters. We pay more for grapes, expecting high quality in return.”
It’s a “no-brainer” in a market where New Zealand’s global reputation is about quality. “Single vineyard wines uphold and enhance that perception, aligning with the trend of consumers drinking less but better,” Sophie says. “We’d rather make wines some people love than ones everyone just quite likes.”
Photo to left, Sophie Parker-Thomson. Photo Francine Boer
highest quality Pinot Noir, able to craft wines that create excitement and prompt global wine lovers to buy them and put them in their cellars.”
As established producers refine their approaches, generational change is shaping the industry. Younger winemakers and new entrants have brought fresh perspectives and energy, with an increasing focus on organic and biodynamic farming, natural wines, and experimental styles. With everhigher capital cost barriers, many operate via side hustles and establish relationships with premium growers focused on providing fruit to numerous small players. There are also a number of wineries operating multi-producer, small batch production.
But despite the exciting raw material, committed producers and global reputation, New Zealand Pinot Noir faces headwinds. Plantings have stalled, increasing by just 100ha in the past decade. While it remains New Zealand’s top red export, in 2023 it was overtaken by Pinot Gris as the second most exported variety behind Sauvignon Blanc.
A global decline in wine consumption is mirrored in domestic figures and compounded by rising production costs and logistics challenges. There is no
Honest expressions of place
EMMA JENKINS MW
Winemaking begins with intention, says Central Otago’s Jen Parr, both winemaker at Valli and a consultant. “Do you want to make a wine to a price point, a methodology, a geography, a season? Do you want it to be simply delicious, intellectual, or both? Immediate or ageworthy? These questions guide how we grow, make and market wine.”
Making numerous regional, subregional and single vineyard wines in Central Otago, she notes the different approaches that come with each. “A regional blend is like a family portrait— flaws and features are less obvious because of harmony within the group. A single vineyard wine is like zooming in on one person: you see the contours, freckles and sparkle.”
Jen believes transparency is central to single vineyard wines. “It’s not about polish but about expressing place honestly. You must enjoy, admire and fear all attributes of the place and be
denying the financial pressures faced by producers, especially smaller ones. Geography makes us a largely artisanal place, and premium Pinot Noir production demands low yields. Maintaining and replanting aging vineyards, managing weather events, and investing in necessary infrastructure and sustainability initiatives all require significant resources.
Globally, New Zealand Pinot Noir is positioned on a double-edged sword: it offers consistency and quality but is at risk of being perceived as a safe, reliable choice rather than an exciting, interesting one. This is a barrier to increasing prices, and keeps our wine pigeonholed as midtier in the competitive global Pinot Noir quality hierarchy. The tiny volumes of the majority of the best wines mean few get to experience them, particularly those that transcend variety into something more. As Pen Naish of Black Estate observes: “If we don’t tell our story with excitement and authenticity we will be overlooked, and competition from other countries will be tough.”
The Path to Maturity Progress is seldom linear and great Pinot Noir takes time. Within little more than a generation, we have established
an impressive degree of quality and the potential for so much more. But being able to sustain and nurture both the underlying land and businesses so the next generation can pick up the torch and continue the hard work is vital. Laser focus on high quality is a more realistic path to this than dependency on volume.
At a recent tasting, Rippon’s Nick Mills quoted American novelist Wendell Berry’s statement, “Eating is an agricultural act” (and by extension an environmental and political one), which can logically be extended to wine, particularly given it’s a choice rather than necessity. At a personal level, individuals have a choice of who and what they support when purchasing wine, and the same is true at an industry level. A united vision of high quality, allied with environmental and social sustainability, will chart New Zealand on a course to great heights. There will inevitably be setbacks and growing pains. But with the successes achieved already, there are plenty of reasons to believe this is a direction that’s well within our grasp, should we so choose.
The view from afar Renowned Burgundy expert Jasper Morris MW offers a somewhat cautious view of the current state of New Zealand’s Pinot
“If your intention is to best express the truth of a place in a season then you have to face that truth and trust that others will too.”
Jen Parr
willing to let the wine show its most raw and honest self.”
Wines that evoke strong emotions often leave lasting impressions, she adds. “The wines that scared me the most to make often resonate more with critics and consumers than those I thought had general appeal. If your intention is to best express the truth of a place in a season then you have to face that truth and trust that others will too. Those that don’t, aren’t your audience.”
Jen Parr.
Photo Anna Allan
No vineyards, no problems
EMMA JENKINS
MW
Huntress, Novum, and The Marlborist embody an evolution of small producers in New Zealand. Despite not owning vineyards or wineries, they seek to craft individualistic wines while proving that success is about much more than just the product itself – it’s about the connections, values, and authenticity that shape each bottle.
For Jannine Rickards, founder of Huntress Wines in Wairarapa, it’s a deeply personal endeavour. After years with predominantly small, family-owned businesses, Huntress began as a side hustle that blossomed into a small but fiercely committed business sourcing organicallyfarmed grapes. “Hard to believe it’s been seven years since I made that first wine with a tonne of Pinot Noir,” she reflects. “I started with no business plan and to be honest, I am still working on one. For me, the story needs to encompass diversity, community and kai.”
With limited resources, Huntress relies on the support of a close-knit wine community, loyal friends and whanau. “Small business is about relationships, connections, honesty, and not being a dick. I don’t have a vineyard and can’t see that on the cards. I have Huntress, which I have poured so much of my energy into.” For Jannine, making her own wine is more than a business though, it’s also a way for her to “connect with the whenua (land) and protect my wairua (spirit)” while navigating a path to long-term sustainability.
Similarly, The Marlborist, founded by Richard Ellis, Stu Dudley and Dave Nash,
emphasises the importance of industry relationships. By leveraging decades of experience, the trio access premium Marlborough sites, including Auntsfield and The Wrekin, which supply all of their Pinot Noir. “We are continuing to explore greater regional and subregional identity within Marlborough which is enormously exciting,” Richard says. “Early in my winemaking career, working for a larger winery, we’d taste around 50 Pinot ferments daily from across Marlborough. You very quickly build up a picture of which parts of the region give particular styles.”
He describes the Southern Valleys’ hillside sites, such as Ben Morven and Brancott Valley, as offering “cooler temperatures, heavier loess clay soils and northerly aspects that produce some of Marlborough’s most beautiful, rich and perfumed Pinots.”
Managing growth has been trickier, especially as international markets took notice of their wines early on. But Richard says good relationships, this time with their bank manager, have helped. “With land and wineries increasingly out of reach for young winemakers, models like ours make it much easier to enter the market. In time our dream is to have a small home block… just gotta walk before we run.”
Fellow Marlburians Rachel JacksonHoare and William Hoare have carved out their own path with Novum Wines, via tightly held commitments to quality, consistency and older vines – in their case 45-year-old Chardonnay and 30-year-old
Pinot Noir vineyards. “We are essentially speeding up the process to make a great wine by a generation,” Rachel says. “Old vines produce better grapes and therefore better wines.” Though Novum doesn’t own its vineyards it does manage them, “as if they are our own”, she says. “Growing grapes for yourself takes a very different mindset than buying them. To be honest it’s one of the best decisions we made for quality, but also one of the most stressful and time-consuming.”
Choosing not to invest in land or a winery also allowed Novum to prioritise building the back end of the business. “Producing consistently good fruit, controlling the winemaking process end-to-end, and developing a strong reliable customer base have become our sustainable building blocks.”
FELCO
Richard Ellis
Noir. “Not a lot has really changed between the various visits I’ve had. Certainly, things are growing in competence – people have been doing things for longer, and the understanding is better, including of locations. But have there really been many new people entering the scene that are of interest? Not a lot.”
He asks where the new initiative, or new styles, lie. “You can’t keep saying the same story, as the unfortunate reality is this will not capture the world’s interest.” New Zealand is no longer seen as the “new kid on the block” in international markets and despite consumers recognising established names, there seems to be limited curiosity about exploring beyond them. Jasper observes that Covid-19 was a huge knock to New Zealand, exacerbating its distance and isolation, with inbound tourism and investment still struggling to recover. He argues that New Zealand’s best Pinot Noirs – “your gleaming icons” –are undervalued, and there’s a need to command higher prices, allowing the next tier to settle in below them at a more sustainable price in the long term. He foresees challenges doing this in the current global economic climate but, “the raw material is there, and some good people are doing good things”.
United States writer and former Pinot Noir New Zealand 2017 keynote speaker Elaine Chukan Brown is more optimistic, highlighting the category’s achievements and noting how quickly, “the best of New Zealand Pinot Noir sat among the best in the world”.
Elaine warns against relying on safe winemaking and is encouraged by the “small second wave of trailblazers” currently making strides by focusing on site distinction and excellence. “It is the standout producers pushing Pinot’s
potential into new areas that gain recognition internationally and bring greater respect and acclaim.” This also depends on fostering good relationships with international trade and media as consumers discover wine through them.
The country’s geographical distance and small scale create challenges, but our ability to make Pinot Noir that delivers site transparency and distinctive quality will open the door for greater recognition, Elaine says. “The bright acidity, incredible aromatics and savoury depth possible there get me every time.”
London-based New Zealander and restaurateur Melanie Brown, former owner of specialist outlet The New Zealand Cellar, feels frustrated by the decline in depth and distribution of New Zealand
Pinot Noir available in the United Kingdom during the past 15 years, compared to the diversity she sees when back home. She thinks economic difficulties and waning alcohol consumption mean the market will remain an increasingly tough one for producers for some time.
Melanie says Central Otago remains the flagship region, overshadowing others, and laments the lack of education around regional and subregional differences in the UK. Despite this, New Zealand has done an “outstanding” job of making Pinot affordable and achievable to consumers there, she says. “A wine they can relate to and that packs a punch with personality and approachability. The commitment to quality means there is seldom a poorquality example.”
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The long view from Central EMMA JENKINS MW
In the late 1970s, Ann Pinckney defied the prevailing view that Central Otago’s climate was too extreme for viticulture, establishing its first commercial vines since Jean Désiré Féraud’s first efforts more than a century earlier. Today, the region’s vineyards are planted with approximately 80% Pinot Noir, onethird of the country’s total, reflecting the variety’s suitability for the region’s growing conditions and the burst of plantings in the early 2000s. Central’s present-day
“Pinot is a variety that speaks to emotion, and we have a great story to tell with enormous potential, but we need a collective approach to do this.”
Rudi Bauer
limelight belies the hard scrabble of its establishment, and the sheer commitment and time required to grow great Pinot in this beautiful, challenging region. “It’s four decades since I planted my first Pinot Noir at Gibbston Valley,” recalls Alan Brady. “And it’s 37 years since we produced the first commercial release of Pinot Noir in 1987. We were isolated from mainstream New Zealand winemaking, at the time mainly in the North Island, and knew only what we could read about how to grow the variety and handle the fruit. I devoured books on Burgundy; their passionate belief in the cult of terroir seemed to me
almost mystical. As a concept it intrigued, and after four decades of watching and listening to Pinot Noir as it settled into the geological and climatic diversity of this foreign environment, I have to say I’m a believer.” Indeed he is – at age 88, Alan is now building his third winery, for his Wild Irishman label.
The first Central Otago Pinot Noirs Rudi Bauer made were at Rippon on the shores of Lake Wānaka in 1988. He says New Zealand has the pioneers of Martinborough to thank for their role in shaping Pinot Noir: “Larry McKenna, Clive Paton, Neil McCallum… they made such shining wines and they were huge visionaries and drivers of progress for us all.” Along with the late Richard Riddiford, they saw very early on the need for a premium quality mindset as well as vehicles for collaboration and learning, such as the Pinot Workshop and the original Wellington Pinot event.
Rudi feels concerned that the industry seems increasingly fragmented and believes it needs a more unified voice, especially for marketing overseas. “Pinot is a variety that speaks to emotion, and we have a great story to tell with enormous potential, but we need a collective approach to do this.”
Nick Mills’ parents planted Rippon’s first vines in 1982 on land that had been owned by the family for over a century (see page 32). “It took time for the vines to find purchase on the land, but also for the family to do so,” he says. “It’s taken a long time for the detail of the wine to come through, for the transmission from site to seed, and then on to the person
drinking it.”
The trio shares a sense of humility and respect for the winegrowing process and, above all, the land. “On this journey, I believe it’s Pinot Noir that’s shown us where to go,” Alan says. “And if we are wise, we’ll go on listening to what she’s telling us about our sites, our soils, the subtle nuances of energy and light. If we’re wise, we won’t let the marketplace or marketeers dictate style but continue to develop our empathy and understanding of our vineyards, so that we can be more responsive and responsible farmers.”
“We are all still so young, and we are on the same journey together,” Rudi adds. “It is a privilege to be starting out, to be looking after the land. It’s not about ‘me’, it’s about bringing the paddock into the glass.”
Rudi Bauer
Women in Wine
New Zealand’s wine industry has undergone a significant shift over the past few decades, with increasing numbers of talented women found throughout vineyards and wineries. In celebration of International Women’s Day on 8 March, EMMA JENKINS MW speaks to five inspiring winemakers who have helped pave the way, thanks to perseverance, passion, and some of New Zealand’s best wines.
“Since I started in the wine industry I have wanted to be recognised as a winemaker, not a female winemaker,” says Jenny Dobson, recalling the derogatory edge to ‘female winemaker’ when she moved to France in 1979. “As in ‘this is a good wine for a woman, but not good enough to compete or in the same league as one made by a male winemaker’.”
She was told women couldn’t work in cellars because of “funny acids” in their bodies that would turn wine to vinegar, and responded by asking why women could do hard manual labour in vineyards, touching grapes, “if they have funny acids in their bodies”. Jenny didn’t let baseless superstitions hold her back, going on to become the first female cellar master in Bordeaux, before returning to New Zealand in 1996 to make wine in Hawke’s Bay.
For Ata Rangi Winemaker Helen Masters, the physicality of winemaking presented one of the first hurdles. “The winery was set up by tall, strong men, making everything harder than it needed to be for someone of my height,” she recalls of arriving at the winery for a gap year in 1991, straight out of college and just 157cm tall. She took over as winemaker in 2003, and the whole focus of 2004 – when she was pregnant – was reducing the heavy and high lifting, with the likes of hoists and forklifts. “Making it physically easier means we have more time to think and plan without being constantly exhausted.”
Challenges came in many forms in the early days, says consultant winemaker Michelle Richardson, reflecting on an engineer who wallpapered his office with centrefolds, “so when I went in, he’d look past me at them”. Regardless, her early years at Villa Maria, where many notable industry women began their careers, gave her a
brilliant start with freedom to experiment. “Grant Edmonds and George Fistonich allowed me to flex my winemaking muscles and provided a wonderful training ground.”
Kate Radburnd, of Radburnd Cellars, was one of New Zealand’s first female winemakers, also starting her career with Sir George, and says she was fortunate to find a support system early on, regarding it as instrumental in later successes. Similarly, Claire Mulholland, from Burn Cottage, describes her entry into the industry as being filled with opportunities to learn and grow, particularly the mentorship she experienced with Grant Taylor and Ted Lemon.
They all agree that the role of women in the industry has evolved over the past 20 years, evidenced by a recent Burn Cottage vintage having an all-female cellar hand team. New Zealand has proven far more progressive than many traditional winemaking countries, thanks to “industry youthfulness”, Kate adds. “We have predominantly educated and talented men and women in viticultural and winemaking roles. In many countries the pathway for women is more challenging and often success is family related.”
Jenny believes industry respect for women is much improved. “The present generation considers it normal to work side-by-side. Positions of responsibility at all levels are now held by women.” That’s reflected in winemaking courses, which are now 50% women, says Michelle. “And the industry is embracing them across all areas.”
But the five winemakers also highlight the need for more women in leadership roles. “I’m still amazed that, after all this time, I can often be the only woman in the room at a meeting or wine event,” Helen says. “I don’t feel intimidated by it, but I would like some company!” And Kate, a past chair of Women in Wine New Zealand, flags the enduring and pernicious gender pay gap. “Role remuneration should be gender-neutral and based on performance. This is an area which needs significant attention if we are to be a truly best practice industry.” Jenny recalls how she was paid less than her male counterparts during her years in France and observes that bullying, a universal challenge, is often more easily directed at women.
Michelle says navigating setbacks taught her resilience, from making suggestions that were ignored until a man suggested them, to juggling breastfeeding during distributor meetings. “This taught me the importance of respectful relationships as well as the value of trust in business dealings.”
While all five women feel that winemaking talent transcends gender, they acknowledge the unique qualities women can bring. “There’s a sense of collaboration, which I think women are very good at, leading to excellent outcomes,” Kate says.
Helen notes that women often excel at day-to-day listening and fine-tuning details, while men are more inclined toward the big-picture. “I really enjoy brainstorming with a group of guys as the ideas are so different and I find that very valuable.”
Photo to left, Helen Masters at Ata Rangi. “I’m still amazed that, after all this time, I can often be the only woman in the room at a meeting or wine event.”
Claire Mulholland
Jenny Dobson. Photo Kirsten Simcox
Claire notes that sensory perception and attention to detail are sometimes seen as strengths for women, though she stresses that skill and experience ultimately determine success. Jenny sums it up well: “I’m not sure if women have more of these qualities than men, but having both brings balance – which is also the hallmark of great wine.”
“Role remuneration should be genderneutral and based on performance. This is an area which needs significant attention if we are to be a truly best practice industry.”
Kate Radburnd
Their advice? Work hard, be curious, and don’t let obstacles deter you. “I always knew I was going to be a winemaker so I didn’t see any reason why I shouldn’t be, and that stood me in good stead,” Helen states. “My advice to anyone looking to join the industry is, ‘don’t look for things that you think are stopping you. Find the right people that you enjoy working with and get stuck in, work hard and work in every part of the business’.” Michelle urges women to seek a mentor. “I think I isolated myself too much as I was very much embarrassed about the publicity I got. But now I would say don’t shrink to make others comfortable.” Kate agrees: “Never be afraid to ask questions and always speak your mind. We are sometimes reticent to do that
and experience has shown me it is much better to participate and question.”
As the industry continues to evolve, these trailblazers are optimistic about the future, with Claire applauding the New Zealand industry for being progressive and adapting quickly. Jenny believes it’s about finding balance – between freedom and tradition, and between men and women – and thinks mentoring will play a key role in fostering the next generation.
With ever more women pushing boundaries, initiatives such as the global Women in Wine network help ensure challenges like pay equity and leadership representation are kept front of mind. Meanwhile the stories of strong and inspiring pioneers show that skill, thoughtfulness and a commitment to quality are the true hallmarks of success.
Kate Radburnd
Michelle Richardson
Mastering Wine
Emma Jenkins’ MW Musings
There will be many who have noted with sadness the recent death of Peter Taylor, who established Scenic Cellars, the legendary lakefront wineshop in Taupō, in 1981; a vinous treasure trove where customers were as likely to discover a vertical of Cook’s or Mazuran’s as that of DRC or Lafite. I worked there for five years from the end of 1999, initially planning to take just a year-long break between my undergraduate degree and intended postgraduate studies. By this time Peter had dug not one but two underground cellars,
uncompromising. But his attitude to getting the most out of each day was inspiring, and alongside his drive was incredible generosity. He was firmly of the view that to sell fine wine, you had to have tasted it, discussed it, understood it; as a result, staff tastings were often mind-blowing. Because of him my nascent interest in wine, piqued in my university years at Dunedin’s Robbie Burns Wine Club, became a full-blown passion. I am in absolutely no doubt that he changed the trajectory of my life.
“Peter was a remarkable man, a true wine lover, whose work ethic and energy levels could at times make him pretty uncompromising.”
including competing in dozens of Ironman races around the world. His approach to business was old-school, fierce and idiosyncratic, he was a man of his word and handshake, who ran a tight ship, driven by a genuine love of wine and an underlying respect and passion for the industry.
There will be many ‘Peter stories’, a large percentage of them unprintable, almost all of them hilarious. Peter’s wife Colleen is an excellent cook and between them they hosted innumerable lunches that stretched into dinners and dinners that turned into the wee hours. These almost always involved the opening of many incredible international bottles but also a great many from the early days of New Zealand wine, including a 25-year-old bottle of Hunter’s Sauvignon Blanc, which blindsided us all with its aged deliciousness. Never any pomp or ceremony, just the profound joy of sharing and discussing wine of all stripes with friends, be they old or new.
Peter taught me fundamental lessons about character and where the true value of wine lies. I have the strong sense of another chapter closing on the important early years and characters of our industry, and I am so grateful I got a glimpse of them via Peter.
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NZ Fellow
Dr Richard Smart
SOPHIE PREECE
Dr Richard Smart began shining a light on grape growing in the late 1960s, increasingly fascinated by how sunlight interception by vineyards impacted yields and fruit quality. More than 55 years later, he has counselled countless students, growers and organisations around the world on vine physiology and canopy management, including his time as the New Zealand Government’s National Viticultural Scientist, from 1982 to 1990.
“Richard is very much a visionary, using his international experience to debate the issues facing the wine industry.”
Dr Mike Trought
In late January, New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) named Richard as a 2025 Fellow, recognising the long-term impact of his work. “Richard’s ability to transpose vine physiology to practice has made a great contribution,” says viticulture science stalwart Dr Mike Trought, who is a friend and fellow Fellow. “New Zealand’s wine industry needs to recognise the very significant contribution that he has made to our understanding of quality grape production.” Richard is “very much a visionary”, Mike adds. “Using his international experience to debate the issues facing the wine industry.”
There have been myriad research projects, qualifications and publications during the past six decades of Richard’s work, including two doctorates, hundreds of peer-reviewed science and technical articles, and the publication of the highly acclaimed handbook Sunlight into Wine. There have also been accolades aplenty, including New Zealand Wine Industry Personality of the Year (1989), Honorary Life Membership of the New Zealand Society for Viticulture and Oenology (1990), and being inducted into the New Zealand Wine Hall of Fame (2007). Other awards from around the world reflect Richard’s influence, and in 2005 he was one of Decanter magazine’s 50 Most Powerful
Richard, who has continued his work throughout a long battle with cancer, says his biggest achievement has been “to work with proprietors with open minds that were driven by profit motives and not some half-baked industry myths and beliefs”. He found one of those minds in Delegat founder Jim Delegat, who met Richard in the 1970s, when the viticulturist was Head of the Department of Viticulture at Roseworthy Agricultural College in Australia. When Richard became New Zealand’s National Viticultural Scientist, overseeing viticultural technical development throughout the country, he was “extremely approachable” and helped guide a cool climate approach to viticulture, says Jim, who was made a NZW Fellow in 2023. “Richard offered growers a better understanding of optimising the long-term productive life of a vine, and of the opportunities that existed in our unique cool climate environment”. The close working relationship that began then continues today, and for the past 20 years Delegat has been a “real flag bearer” of Richard’s work, using his insights and knowledge to guide major vineyard expansions. This includes implementing a “balanced vine approach” and the Scott Henry canopy system, in order to exploit Marlborough’s maritime-influenced climate, says Jim, who counts Richard a personal friend and a profound viticultural influence.
A growing career
Richard’s viticulture career came via Agricultural Science studies at Sydney
University in the 1960s, specialising in agronomy. But vineyards intrigued him, with their bare soil interspersed with vine foliage, and he progressed into a Master of Science from Macquarie University, researching irrigation and sunlight use by vineyards. His research was presented at the 1970 International Horticultural Congress in Tel Aviv, Israel, with his master’s awarded the following year, leading to PhD studies at Cornell University in the United States, under Nelson Shaulis, Professor of Viticulture at Geneva Experiment Station. By 1975 Richard was teaching viticulture and undertaking research at South Australia’s Roseworthy Agricultural College, in a period of “active involvement” with European and American colleagues in canopy management and trellis design. He grew his interest in climate effects on wine quality, leading to an interest in cool climate viticulture, and also owned and operated a family vineyard at Williamstown, in the Barossa Valley.
“Richard offered growers a better understanding of optimising the longterm productive life of a vine, and of the opportunities that existed in our unique cool climate environment.”
Jim Delegat
Richard and his family moved to New Zealand in 1982 for his position at the Ruakura Research Station in Hamilton. It was a highly productive period for research, and important for the developing New Zealand grape and wine sector, Richard says, reflecting on a research programme based on vine improvement, including studies of virus and other diseases as well as a significant importation programme, which was all fully catalogued in a National Grapevine Register. The research was internationally recognised in canopy management, involving introduction of new horizontally and vertically divided grapevine canopies and further promoting the canopy management guidelines of Nelson Shaulis, who Richard has previously called “the acknowledged Godfather of modern canopy management research”.
Mike notes that Richard forged an invaluable link between the grape, wine
Names in Wine.
Dr Richard Smart
and canopy management research done in North America in the 1940s and 1950s and the nascent industry in New Zealand. The subsequent research improved efficiency, quality, and consumer acceptance of wine, he adds.
While working in New Zealand, Richard founded the New Zealand Society for Viticulture and Oenology and was Chairman for the Second International Conference on Cool Climate Viticulture and Oenology, held in Auckland in 1988. The conference, with more than 400 predominantly international delegates, was pivotal in promoting the new wine style Sauvignon Blanc to the world.
He also wrote Sunlight into Wine with agricultural engineer Mike Robinson, who was also working with New Zealand’s Ministry of Agriculture and Fisheries. The book, published in 1991, gained international acclaim, including a prize from the OIV, and is still in use today.
“Proper canopy management can be the most important determinant of yield and quality carried out in both the vineyard and the winery,” Richard says. “Yet in most New Zealand vineyards this is not the case.” His biggest regret from that period
was that he did not include clonal selection for Sauvignon Blanc in the research programme. “It would have been of great benefit to the industry.”
In 1990, Richard returned to Australia and established the Smart Viticulture consulting firm, with clients in 30 countries around the world, from Western and Eastern Europe to South America and South Africa, along with developing countries like China.
Along with a passion for canopy management and research into trunk disease, Richard has been a vocal proponent of climate change mitigation and adaptation in the wine industry. He spoke to the OIV General Assembly on the consequences of climate change for the international wine sector in 1989, and has frequently spoken and written on the subject. In recent years he has challenged the wine industry to address the volumes of carbon dioxide released to the atmosphere during winemaking. Lately he has also been writing about studies linking alcohol consumption and cancer, a subject that is both personal and industry-pertinent to him. “In my opinion this will be the largest change that present producers will see in
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their lifetime and will involve shrinkage of the global wine industry.”
Richard, who has seen plenty of changes in the past 60 years, says New Zealand wine’s “golden years” lasted until the early 21st century, including the period of formation of NZW. Only a “few lucky” wine producing countries are likely to see such times again, and “New Zealand should be one of them”, he says. “Although a distant producer, New Zealand has an excellent quality reputation and is environmentally aware.”
Speaking at his induction, an online event held on 22 January, Richard said working as New Zealand’s Viticultural Scientist was the professional highlight of his life, thanks in large part to the research accomplished and published during that time. “This was because I was able to work with such an impressive team of coworkers spread throughout the country.” Richard said he felt “immense gratitude” for the opportunities, and the “exceptional individuals” he has worked with. “To New Zealand Winegrowers, thank you for this incredible honour. It is a privilege to be recognised by an industry I hold so dear.”
Growing Legacy
As the second youngest of six kids, and the fourth generation on the land, Rippon’s NICK MILLS talks of his family’s connection to a “ridiculously special place”.
A long time ago, right around here, a big block of rock was pushed up out of the ocean. From time to time it got properly cold back then, so thick rivers of ice carved out deep valleys, leaving high mountains and a series of sheltered inland areas. A few hard, compressed lumps of bedrock remained, sitting in the middle of the basins like giant sheep sleeping on the land.
Fifty kilometres southeast of Mount Aspiring, next to Lake Wānaka and the Clutha Mata-Au river, sits a hard piece of schist, a hill, that stuck around through the ice-ages and formed gentle north-facing slopes of glacial outwash and gravels.
Because of its isolation, the only things to
come here early on either blew, flew, washed up or swam here. With no browsing land mammals, the plants wore their skeletons on the outside and their flesh and fruit on the inside. Whole new life forms came to be. When humans arrived, they used this place as a soft inland camp, a place of gardening, rest and education: Wānaka.
“At Rippon, we hope that the emotions people feel when they see and feel our place can help them understand why our vines are so happy here.”
Nick Mills
By the time our Anglo-Saxon ancestors arrived, migration, the 1836 Te Puoho raid, and the 1858 Waste Lands Act meant this land was open for European land prospecting.
We started out as Sargoods here. Back in 1830, Frederick James Sargood, an English draper, married Emma Rippon and,
together with their five girls and only son, moved to Melbourne to set up a soft goods business servicing the Victorian goldrush. Their son, Frederick Thomas (FT) Sargood, continued to grow the business and, in 1868, bought 27 hectares of scrub and developed Rippon Lea, a large house and garden. FT and Marian (née Rolfe) brought up a large family at Rippon Lea and one of their sons, Percy, moved to the happening town of Dunedin, at the time experiencing its own goldrush, to continue the family business.
Percy attended viticulturist Romeo Bragato’s lectures to the Dunedin Chamber of Commerce in 1895 so, even before he purchased Wānaka Station in 1912, understood the region’s potential for vines. However, it would be roughly another 70 years until his grandson Rolfe (my Dad), and Rolfe’s wife Lois (my Mum), would begin to realise this potential.
So, hi, I’m Nick, the second youngest of six kids, and part of the fourth generation on our farm. I feel I got lucky with this life. As if being alive and cognitive on this beautiful planet wasn’t enough, I got to grow up in a loving, supportive family,
Rippon Vineyard
connected to one ridiculously special place. Early on, we lived in a cottage built under massive trees on the Wānaka Station homestead block (now Wānaka Station Park), with a playground of farm stables, implements sheds and, always, the lake.
“The fields became vineyards, the goat shed was re-tapped into a winery, and the smell of mohair, much more slowly, wore off Dad’s clothes and skin.”
Nick Mills
When Rolfe and Lois built the house and moved the family up to the West Block, naming it Rippon Farm, it was still possible to walk back into the centre of town completely over farmland. It was pretty cool. You could go along the lake, navigating the old stock fences out into the water and nod to the young willow tree growing out of an old jetty post. Alternatively, you could go straight over the
top, past the water race and old mill wheel, through the larches and goat paddocks. Looking back, I guess nearly all that one could see by the 70s was less than 100 years old, but it felt already ancient.
Rolfie, a gentle, always interested, always thoughtful man, had been doing that walk all his life. Tink, as Dad was to his mates, wanted to know more. He did his thing. From the hill, he observed it, studied it, took climate data, dug holes, travelled, talked, tasted. An original stock of vine material, seemingly of everything he could find, was planted, sampled and tested. The successful cultivars, those that demonstrated they were comfy in the site, were then selected, cuttings taken and
propagated through our own nursery – this became our school holidays as kids. The fields became vineyards, the goat shed was re-tapped into a winery, and the smell of mohair, much more slowly, wore off Dad’s clothes and skin.
When we were at school, Wānaka looked really different to the place you see today. It was a service town to the high countryfarming community. On the main street where the lakeside cafes are now, there was a tractor repair shop and a dairy. I think as a family we stood out a bit; we were goat farmers experimenting with wine, and Lolo was 25 years younger than her silver-haired husband and was always getting exotic things. She wasn’t much good at meat and
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Rolfe “Tink” Mills, believing, at Rippon Farm circa 1973
three veg; I still maintain that my sisters and I got to eat the first avocado in the Upper Clutha basin.
In the early 80s the garage filled up with multiple vintages of unlabelled, unbranded wine bottles. They got filthy and Dad kept on planting. We sold parts of the farm to raise capital for the next vineyard block or, more likely, to pay for the last couple. When the garage was full and the car demoted, Lolo bought trestle tables and a till. The goat shed, turned winery, also became a cellar and cellar door, and Rippon Farm, became Rippon Vineyard and Winery.
“Land and vines endure past a single lifetime, so intergenerational knowledge is critical, yet farm succession is by far the hardest single agricultural activity to undertake.”
Nick Mills
It’s an odd model. It feels like many of my mates, dead and alive, fell in love with Burgundy and wanted to emulate that culture, that wine, somewhere else. Many of them have done this brilliantly. For us though, it was a longstanding relationship with a singular piece of land, first and foremost, and an adaptation or selection of the (viti)culture to that land. But it didn’t take long for Pinot Noir to float to the top.
In the early 90s I got to work in the vineyard and winery with Rudi Bauer when he was making some of the first seminal wines to come out of Central. I was in my final years at high-school and I was quite
into thinking. Rudi’s a fan of Goethe and Thomas Mann; we clicked and I started to see what he did as a potential life choice for me. My parents, of course, were doing that too, but they were just my parents. Many of my siblings became winegrowers too and I feel like we all fell in love with the land first, deeply, and then sought educational experiences that would help us look after it better.
In Wānaka, we often hear the groan, “Oh it’s not like it was when I first came here”, but I think that that was probably always the case. Our late aunt Jill could remember the sound of the Clydesdales thundering over the paddocks, echoing off Roy’s Peak, Mt Iron and around the valley. As bucolic as this image is, I wonder if the locals that were here before our family said, “well, there’s goes the town!” I reckon there have
always been people, flora and fauna feeling that way over the ages.
I think Vinifera though, at least as we know it, likes humans a bit more. We’ve co-existed for so long that we now feel at ease in the same places: mid-slope, facing the sun, security in elevation, protection from the mountains, dry feet, plenty of clean water. At Rippon, we hope that the emotions people feel when they see and feel our place can help them understand why our vines are so happy here. It is the vines’ ungrafted, unirrigated, intimate and ongoing connection to this place that makes the wines what they are.
Feeling a human tie to a singular place is joyful. We’re making compost, spreading biodynamic preps, restoring habitat, working in happy vines, making crazy wines, sharing them with people who care.
Nick Mills, also believing, at Rippon
I’ve also swum almost every shoreline and walked every skyline one can see from Rippon. I’ve had the pleasure of working most of my life alongside my wife, mother, two sisters and brother, not to mention a brilliant, loving, long-standing crew.
Maintaining the human connection is also our greatest challenge. It takes more than a back label to explain what we’re about, as a brand. It’s not always easy for the drinker to understand or care about their purchase decision having a direct impact on a piece of land somewhere. In Pinot Noir particularly, patience is a good thing. It takes a vine a long time to become part of its place. Likewise, human experience and olfactory memory can’t simply be unplugged from one corporate being into another. Land and vines endure past a single lifetime, so intergenerational knowledge is critical, yet farm succession is by far the hardest single agricultural activity to undertake. Its costs are measured in money and emotional health. Connection is tied to disconnection; surely the more we love something, the deeper we fear its loss. These are scary, exciting times for winos. For better or worse, growing wine, for us, feels like the only way to stay here, but
is that worth maintaining? For us? For our family? For the wine drinker? Do the customers benefit from this? I wonder sometimes if people see it as worth paying for. Maybe we could all just see farming as input in, result out, in a single lifetime. I hope not. I hope that the family, the people who work with us and the many who have done so in the past, feel it’s worth it. Most
of all, I hope that Rippon, the place, this beautiful individual, feels its value.
Sitting up there on the hill, the anabatic breeze coming off the lake, pushing over the crest, carrying it through everything – snowmelt, schist, wildflower – is almost inexpressible and certainly like nothing else I know. The sound still gets me to sleep at night.
Percy’s letter to his father FT Sargood, following Romeo Bragato’s lecture to the Dunedin Chamber of Commerce in 1895, informing him of the viticultural potential in this “wonderous and faraway place.”
Village to Village Loans and learning
for RSE workers
SOPHIE PREECE
A new social enterprise to repay the sacrifices of seasonal workers represents chicken feed for Allain Liu-Vitivae – in all the right ways.
Cloudy Bay’s Good Pick Fund, as part of the Village to Village Charitable Trust programme, has launched an initiative to bolster the business aspirations of Recognised Seasonal Employer (RSE) scheme workers in their home nations, including the chicken farm plans of its inaugural recipient. Allain, who has been an RSE worker in New Zealand for 10 years, has returned to his home island of Ambae, Vanuatu, to establish an egg business, with plans to buy 100 hens and build shelter and fencing. Having undertaken a small business and financial literacy programme through Vakameasina in Marlborough (see sidebox on facing page) Allain applied to Cloudy Bay’s Good Pick Fund for an interest free loan of nearly $6,000.
As well as the money, Allain will receive mentoring as he builds his business, ultimately paying back the loan so it can go on to another recipient. “He’s got a passion. He’s got a dream,” says Cloudy Bay’s Jim White, who is also a trustee on the Village to Village board. “We want to find the people with a vision and idea and want to turn that into reality.”
Speaking at an event launching the new programme and shining a light on the wider Village to Village social enterprise, Jim told attendees that the Good Pick Fund had emerged from the Covid-19 lockdown period, when thousands of RSE workers were stranded throughout New Zealand for up to two years, exacerbating the huge sacrifice made by visiting vineyard staff. In a normal season, winter and summer crews can be away from their families and communities for up to seven months at a time. These seasonal workers are a “fundamental” part of the wine industry’s workforce, representing around 30% of Cloudy Bay’s entire workstream, Jim says. So when staff at Cloudy Bay began looking for a valuable social enterprise, giving back to the RSE workforce and their home
communities was an ideal fit. “To repay that sacrifice workers and their families have made.”
The second recipient of the Good Pick Fund is set to be Asio Avock, who works with Hortus in Marlborough. He wants to start a vegetable farm on Espiritu Santo in Vanuatu, working with his cousin to grow food to sell to schools and at markets. Asio has been an RSE worker for 12 years and considers Hortus his extended family, so has every intention of continuing to work in New Zealand when he can, while his cousin runs the day-to-day operations of the farm. Asio’s seasonal work has seen him buy land and build a house for his former partner and their children, then buy land for his parents, as well as two hectares for the farm. Establishing a business with his cousin, while utilising learnings from Vakameasina courses and mentorship from Hortus and Cloudy Bay, is another way of ensuring his wider community benefits from his time in New Zealand.
Jim says the Good Pick Fund, which aligns with the philosophy of parent company Moet Hennessy to grow entrepreneurship in horticulture, hit its straps when Cloudy Bay dovetailed into Village to Village, a social enterprise established in 2021 to sponsor clean energy cookstoves in the Pacific Islands. Village to Village founders Tracy Atkin and Sarah Bates were inspired after helping deliver a business and financial literacy
course for RSE workers, deepening their understanding of the sacrifices being made by individuals, families and communities in helping New Zealand’s wine industry thrive.
They decided to reciprocate in a practical way by offering alternatives to the open fires that impact eye and respiratory health in the Pacific Islands, while raising funds for community-driven initiatives in the Pacific Islands. Initial sponsors Dog Point Vineyard, Tūpari Wines, Entrepreneurial Women with Purpose, Focus Labour Solutions, and BDO were applauded at the launch event, as was Zespri, which gave $20,000 from its RSE fund, enabling nearly 50 cookstoves to be distributed across three islands in a pilot scheme. Speaking at the event, Tracy revealed that a grant of $15,000 was awarded in November 2024 by the Pacific Development and Conservation Trust, administered by the Department of Internal Affairs. She called on anyone with ideas for distributing the cooktops enabled by that grant to get in touch, describing Village to Village as a hub and spoke model, building relationships with NGOs and government organisations to ensure the greatest impact.
As well as cookstove sponsorship and microbusiness loans, Village to Village has also launched the Lina Narawai Education Scholarship, with $100 from each ticket to the launch event at Cloudy Bay going towards that fund. The scholarship
Asio Avock wants to start a vegetable farm in Vanuatu with his cousin, utilising learnings from Vakameasina and assistance from Cloudy Bay’s Good Pick Fund, as part of the Village to Village Charitable Trust.
was requested by Donald Narawai, who has worked under the RSE scheme in New Zealand since the programme began in 2007.
Viticultura owner Timbo Deaker says Donald is a “hero” to many in the wine industry, from their clients to his fellow RSE workers. “I love the word Mana when taking about Donald,” Timbo says. So when Lina passed away, he and business partner Jason Thomson worked with Donald on plans for a scholarship, and reached out to wine industry partners, finding a swift response from Jim at Cloudy Bay and then Village to Village. Attendees at the launch event watched a video of Charlie Giliala, Lenakel College Principal on Vanuatu’s Tanna Island. “Students who will be receiving this scholarship, as of next year, I believe it will change their life,” he said.
Village to Village has been a “three-year overnight success”, says Tracy, calling Cloudy Bay’s involvement a “real pinch-me moment”. She hopes there’ll be plenty of momentum from here on. With 20,000 RSE workers from nine Pacific partners working in New Zealand’s viticulture and horticulture industry each year, the charity is about reciprocity, she adds. “Giving back to the communities that do so much for us.” villagetovillage.org.nz
New RSE Training Provider
Eastern Institute of Technology will run phase three of the Recognised Seasonal Employer (RSE) Worker Training Programme, offering education and training opportunities to seasonal workers from the Pacific Islands. The programme, previously run by Fruition Horticulture through Vakameasina, is funded by the New Zealand Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade to deliver meaningful and transferable skills. More than 7,000 RSE workers have benefited from training over the past six years, and the third phase will see New Zealand commit $10.7 million over five years to support more than 10,000 RSE workers, with a focus on increasing the number of participants, and piloting new courses to respond to the priorities of workers and the Pacific countries they hail from. It will also pilot formal recognition of learning. “We are a trusted education provider with a proven track record,” says Paul Hursthouse, EIT’s Director – Business Relationships and Transitions. “The RSE scheme plays a significant role in New Zealand’s economy and we are pleased to partner with MFAT and horticulture employers to offer RSE workers opportunities to develop and acquire new skills.” The programme is set to begin this year and will initially be delivered in Hawke’s Bay, Bay of Plenty and Marlborough/Nelson.
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Allain Liu-Vitivae
Sustainability Update
Demonstrating our commitment to the future through climate change mitigation
Dr Edwin Massey
Moving sustainability forward in 2025
The New Zealand wine industry Environment Strategy goals highlight key objectives across six different focus areas: Water, waste, plant protection, soil, people, and climate change. The New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) Environment Team’s work helps drive progress towards achieving these goals. Throughout 2025 that work will primarily focus on the areas of water, plant protection and climate change. The outcomes of this work aim to strengthen the industry’s reputation for sustainability, an increasingly important driver of market access, and reduce long-term costs to members. This article highlights the Environment Team’s planned activity in these areas and how this work will leave our industry, our world, and our wine better for it.
Water - Freshwater Farm Planning for Viticulture
Our industry water goal is to ‘be a world leader in efficient water use and the protection of water quality’. Across New Zealand, expanding primary sector activity has contributed to decreased water quality in many catchments. During 2025 the Government expects to release updated Freshwater Farm Planning Regulations that will require farm operators to develop plans that seek to mitigate potential impacts of their land use on freshwater. Project Raumatatiki: Freshwater Farm Planning for Viticulture is on track to pilot a digital tool that will enable many members with vineyards to develop plans online. Access to the online tool will be via a link on the NZW members portal. This will provide a templatebased solution enabling members to minimise the duplication required to meet regulatory requirements, saving time and money. Pilot testing of the tool begins in February/March this year and the project is scheduled to conclude in June. Throughout 2024, NZW worked closely with government officials on changes to the regulations. Once more information is available, we will be engaging with members in regions as much as possible to promote awareness of the new regulatory
requirements and potential changes to implementation timeframes. If you have any questions about freshwater farm planning or Project Raumatatiki, please contact fwfp@nzwine.com.
“Our industry’s continued effort to improve our sustainability credentials will help to ensure access to export markets and influence customers’ purchasing decisions.”
Dr Edwin Massey
Plant Protection - Biosecurity Planning becomes a Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand requirement for the 2025/26 growing season
Our industry plant protection goal is to ‘understand and mitigate impacts of existing and potential pests and disease’. Members’ commitment to biosecurity is fundamental to this goal being realised. The ongoing response to the detection of the oriental fruit fly in Auckland shows biosecurity events can strike anywhere at any time. Throughout 2025 the NZW biosecurity team will be visiting members in regions to introduce them to the recently updated biosecurity plan template and heighten awareness of key actions on vineyards that can mitigate biosecurity risk. Completing these biosecurity plans will be a SWNZ requirement for the 2025/26 season (therefore part of audits from 2026). Biosecurity plans help to minimise the risk of potential pest and disease spread – saving costs. The team will highlight the importance of preparing these plans in ‘peace time’ prior to an incursion happening to ensure members don’t have to suddenly adopt measures that they are not prepared for. As always, the biosecurity team is available to assist
members with biosecurity matters at any time at biosecurity@nzwine.com.
Climate change – accelerating our progress to Net Zero 2050
The New Zealand wine industry Roadmap to Net Zero 2050 was released in August last year. The Roadmap provides guidance on how we will reach our Net Zero goal. Our industry’s current emissions footprint is 305,000 tonnes CO2 e per annum. The five key opportunities to accelerate a transition to a net zero future include:
• Improving energy efficiency
• Moving away from diesel
• Decarbonising electricity
• Innovating the value chain
• Using carbon removals
Throughout 2025 the Environment Team’s key focus will be partnering with EECA (Energy Efficiency and Conservation Authority) to highlight key steps to help members realise these opportunities. Many of these emissions reduction activities have the added benefit of reducing costs in the medium term – a win-win for all concerned. The first climate-focused event taking place this year is Climate Action Week Marlborough, 24-28 February.
Conclusion: 30 years of SWNZ is just the beginning
SWNZ celebrates 30 Years in 2025. For the past three decades, this robust, independently audited programme has been an important way for members to demonstrate their commitment to a sustainable future. Our industry’s continued effort to improve our sustainability credentials will help to ensure access to export markets and influence customers’ purchasing decisions. Year by year, bit by bit, the positive actions we take will be fundamental to protecting and enhancing our reputation as a producer of high value, premium, sustainable wine.
Dr Edwin Massey is NZW General Manager Sustainability
Waste to Treasure
Growing value in winery waste
SOPHIE PREECE
Wine companies have been “very generous” in gifting grape marc to a project working to transform the winemaking byproduct. But Professor Paul Kilmartin looks forward to a time when they’re less willing to part with it. “We hope it will be valuable in the future,” says the lead scientist in the Waste to Treasure project.
The $9.8 million initiative, led by Waipapa Taumata Rau, the University of Auckland (UoA), received funding from the Ministry of Business, Innovation and Employment’s Endeavour Fund in spring 2023. It aims to transform grape marc – the stems, skins and seeds left over from winemaking – into food additives, with antioxidant biopolymers to extend the shelf-life of food, and grape proteins and bioactive polyphenols as dietary ingredients in their own right. The second aim is to create value out of fine chemicals and surfactants, and the third is to introduce novel high value paper products with key industry partners, providing fireretardant and antimicrobial properties and integrated paper-based electronics.
The idea is to use every component of the grape marc, growing the sustainability and value of the industry, Paul says. “There might just be one or two that are economically viable and environmentally sound that drive what we do in the future with grape marc.” Two research fellows, Dr Billy Yi Yang and Dr Ralph Gonzales, have been recruited for Waste to Treasure, along with a number of PhD candidates, each working within one of the three threads of research. “When I hear from each of the researchers, I am always amazed at how far they have advanced,” Paul says, explaining that each scientist comes from a background that offers different insights into the project aims. He is also talking to other organisations working with grape marc for the likes of compost and animal feed, and believes those projects will also be part of the solution for the wine industry in the future.
The project’s first foray into handling grape marc was during the 2024 vintage, at the university’s Wine Science lab at Goldie Estate on Waiheke Island. Marc was processed by the kilogram then, with researchers using a food dehydrator and separating skins and seeds by hand. They have purchased a grape marc deseeder for the upcoming harvest and will be able to work in the 10s or hundreds of kilograms.
Besides UoA scientists, the team includes researchers from AUT, Crown Research Institute Scion, and the University of Canterbury. Bragato Research Institute is a partner on the project, with a role to interface with the wine industry.
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Wine Weather
What’s been going on?
JAMES MORRISON
Back in 2023, the year ended in an unsettled fashion, with a cool and damp change to many areas just after Boxing Day. Temperatures quickly recovered and January turned into a warm month across most of New Zealand. Fast forward to summer 2024, and things began early in most regions, with a warm run of
“We have had very little respite from a cool south to southeast wind flow at a critical time of the year for growers.”
James Morrison
temperatures from late November through until mid-December. Several days over 30C were recorded from Gisborne to Canterbury, setting the scene for idyllic Christmas weather. But by mid-December it was clear things were changing. The first signs were a noticeable increase in cloud and humidity over the upper North Island, as east to northeast winds developed. As these conditions persisted into the Christmas break, the change became more of a concern, with low sunshine and low maximum temperatures driving down the mean temperature during the second
half of December. The new year brought little respite and temperatures continued to cool. In some areas, such as Wairarapa and Canterbury, the mean daily maximum temperature was more than 6C below average, with parts of North Canterbury recording minimums below 4C during early January. All regions experienced an unusually prolonged run of cool nights. Under La Niña conditions we expected reduced sunshine totals in eastern regions and increased sunshine in the west, and this part has certainly played out so far.
What went wrong?
From August 2024 onwards there was a lot of commentary about the sea surface temperature cooling along the equatorial
Pacific Ocean and that this was usually an early sign of an impending La Niña. Spring produced some fairly typical weather for most parts of New Zealand and still the climate predictions remained the same – another summer with above average temperatures was expected in all regions. As low pressure brought the cooler shift in December, high pressure became slow-moving in the south Tasman Sea and helped to pull cool air from the Southern Ocean northwards. With this anticyclone almost stationary for several weeks, it meant that we have had very little respite from a cool south to southeast wind flow at a critical time of the year for growers.
continually studied and the longer we
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study, and with the exponential increase in available weather data around the world, we are discovering more about these long-term patterns and how they interact to create the weather we have today. We understand how La Niña and El Niño work, but what we are learning more is how they work with other climate drivers such as the Madden-Julian Oscillation (MJO), which is a large pulse of moist air that travels eastwards across the Pacific Ocean from the Indian Ocean; the Southern Annular Mode (SAM), which is the contraction and expansion of high pressure systems that circle Antarctica; or more recently the Indian Ocean Dipole (IOD), which is an injection of warm, humid air across the Australian continent. The combination of these, as well as the time of year when each are present, can have a massive effect on our day-to-day weather. Whilst a few cool and wet days during summer can happen from time to time, it was the prolonged nature of this event that has been most evident and will take further study to understand. As warmer conditions have returned later in January, it is still possible that the remainder of summer and early autumn will see temperatures closer
to average. However the five-week period of weather that resembled early September will certainly put a dent in the temperature averages and growing degree day totals for this summer.
Outlook for February and March: Gisborne/Hawke’s Bay
Warm north to northwest winds are likely to return at times during late summer and into early March, so there will be further periods of warm weather. However, we are still likely to be affected by easterly onshore flows that increase cloud and the potential for rain. Mean temperatures are likely to be near or a little above average.
Wairarapa
West to northwest winds are likely to return at times, but cloudier than normal conditions may remain through summer and early autumn as east to southeasterly conditions return. Mean temperatures are likely to lift to near average and rainfall is likely to be close to average.
Nelson
Temperatures continue to run about or above average for the remainder of summer
and into autumn. Rainfall totals may run below average but could increase with active fronts moving in from the west at times as northwest winds return.
Marlborough/North Canterbury
Temperatures should continue to become milder and reach average values for the remainder of summer and early autumn. The temperature pattern may be quite lopsided with a few very warm periods with a northwest flow interspersed with periods of cool, cloudy conditions under an easterly flow. Rainfall totals are likely to be close to average and sunshine totals may remain below average for the next few months.
Central Otago
Temperatures are likely to be remain above average. Northwest winds may strengthen in February and March, bringing unsettled weather at times. Rainfall totals are likely to be close to average, but dry spells are likely across the lower South Island when easterly conditions dominate further north.
James Morrison runs Weatherstation Frost Forecasting: weatherstation.net.nz
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Biosecurity never sleeps: Summer’s bird flu and fruit fly threat
In early December 2024, a strain of high pathogenicity avian influenza (HPAI, or ‘bird flu’) was detected on Mainland Poultry’s farm at Hillgrove in Otago. Then, in early January 2025, another high-risk exotic pest, the oriental fruit fly, was found in a surveillance trap in Papatoetoe, Auckland. Both of these detections triggered immediate, intensive biosecurity responses, aiming to eradicate these unwanted organisms before they could spread further.
As biosecurity planning becomes a requirement for Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand (SWNZ) vineyard members in the 2025/26 season, these incursions are a timely reminder of why it’s important for primary industry properties to have a biosecurity plan in place and to remain vigilant for unusual pests or disease symptoms.
HPAI incursion in Otago HPAI is a viral disease affecting birds, and
has the ability to spread rapidly, particularly where it infests a property where birds live together in high densities. This particular strain, H7N6, is not the same as the more deadly H5N1 strain causing issues internationally and was likely acquired by the poultry farm birds via contact with wild waterfowl. It causes lethargy, reduced appetite, swelling, poor coordination and a drop in egg production, and eventual death of the infected bird.
After noticing several sick and dead birds on the Mainland Poultry property, the farmer acted quickly to seek veterinary advice and make contact with the Ministry for Primary Industries (MPI). It was likely this awareness and quick action prevented the disease spreading to other farms within Mainland’s network and more widely around the country. The subsequent biosecurity response has had significant impacts on the Otago property, with the culling of about 200,000 chickens, strict movement controls, and ongoing cleaning and decontamination
processes. Repopulation of the farm will likely take several months, after a waiting period to ensure there is no trace of the disease remaining. Although difficult for the affected property, this response represents a great outcome for the New Zealand poultry industry as a whole, with early detection and reporting minimising the impacts to the wider industry and enabling eradication of the disease.
Oriental fruit fly incursion in Papatoetoe
The oriental fruit fly feeds on many different species of host plant; it has been recorded on more than 200 types of fruit and vegetables. Fruit fly larvae develop inside the host fruit or vegetable, causing significant damage and rendering the produce unmarketable. While grapes (Vitis vinifera) are listed among their potential hosts, the actual risk of infestation in grapes is considered low; studies indicate that grapes have a low infestation rate by oriental fruit fly, suggesting that they are not
Sophie Badland
a preferred host for this species.
The Papatoetoe detection early this year was made in a backyard fruit fly surveillance trap, and at the time of writing of this article, only a single fly has been found, despite enhanced surveillance and significant response work underway.
More than 100kg of fruit from within the response zone has been processed with no sign of eggs or larvae, and no further flies have been found, despite 100 additional surveillance traps being set up. Again, this is a great outcome, with the additional response work helping to provide confidence to international markets that New Zealand does not have an established Oriental fruit fly population.
Conclusion
Biosecurity incursions can happen anywhere, at any time. The better prepared we are, and the earlier an incursion is detected, the better the likelihood of eradication without ongoing, longterm impacts to industry. New Zealand Winegrowers works with other primary sectors and the government to prepare for unwanted pests and diseases through the Government-Industry Agreement and also
encourages members to ensure they have a biosecurity plan in place for their vineyards. Biosecurity planning will become a mandatory requirement for vineyard SWNZ certification from the 2025/26 season onwards.
More information on biosecurity planning for SWNZ members can be found at nzwine.com/members/sustainability/ biosecurity/swnz.
Sophie Badland is NZW Biosecurity & Emergency Response Manager
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Oriental fruit fly
Taking NZ wine to the world: Bringing the world to NZ wine
your behalf Advocacy on matters of vital importance to the industry
Anna Cameron
Sustainable Trade: Monitoring EU Developments
Global focus on sustainability in international trade is rapidly accelerating, supported by the introduction of international regulations that require companies worldwide to disclose their environmental, social and governance information.
From time to time, we get questions from our members about these types of regulatory developments (particularly in the European Union). The Advocacy team is continually monitoring these sorts of developments, but often they will take a number of years to make their way through various legal processes. Regulations may also change or even be abandoned as they make their way through this process. For this reason, we usually update members where there is a reasonable level of certainty about the changes.
This article sets out some of the key regulations that New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) members looking to maintain or grow their presence in the EU may need to be aware of. Importantly, all of these have long lead-in times.
The EU has introduced a range of regulations aimed at enhancing corporate accountability and transparency about environmental (e.g. climate change, greenhouse gas emissions, water quality) and social impacts (e.g. workers’ rights and elimination of forced labour). Some
of these regulations are far reaching and may place reporting obligations on NZW members operating in the EU market. However, there is still much to be finalised, and we will keep members updated.
Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive
The EU’s Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (also known as the CSDDD) was adopted in July 2024 and EU member states must include requirements in their national laws by July 2026. For those businesses that are captured, the new reporting requirements will be phased in over time, so there is plenty of time to prepare. The Directive establishes a due diligence framework. It requires qualifying companies operating in the EU market to assess, report and manage the actual or potential adverse effects of their activities on the environment and human rights.
Obligations under the Directive extend to subsidiaries and throughout the supply chain. This means that, even if your business is not a qualifying company, you may still be required to provide information about your environmental and social impacts, to support your European suppliers to comply. The extent to which NZW members will be impacted by the Directive will become clearer as member states start to implement it into domestic law. In the meantime, NZW members that export to the EU should engage with their
importers and assess whether any of the new requirements will apply to them.
Application
EU and non-EU businesses will become qualifying companies under the scope of the Directive in a staged manner:
• 26 July 2027 – EU companies with over 5,000 employees and €1.5 billion in global net turnover, or non-EU companies with €1.5 billion net turnover within the EU;
• 26 July 2028 – EU companies with over 3,000 employees and €900 million in global net turnover, or non-EU companies with €900 million net turnover within the EU;
• 26 July 2029 – EU companies with over 1,000 employees and €450 million in global net turnover, or non-EU companies with €450 million net turnover within the EU.
Requirements
The Directive obliges companies to adopt a risk-based approach to environmental and social due diligence. This can be done in a variety of ways including integrating due diligence into policies and risk management systems, identifying and assessing actual or potential adverse impacts of business activities and prioritising them according to severity and likelihood. Any negative impacts identified must be addressed by preventing them or
minimising them as much as possible. In-scope companies are also required to monitor the effectiveness of their due diligence policies and measures on an ongoing basis and designate an authorised representative on sustainability due diligence matters.
In addition to the due diligence requirements, in-scope companies must also implement transition plans for climate change mitigation to ensure their business model and strategy align with the Paris Climate Agreement.
Other developments
Packaging
The environmental impact of packaging has also been the subject of increased scrutiny in the EU and more broadly. In 2024, the European Union formally adopted a regulation on packaging and packaging waste. The new regulation aims to reduce the generation of packaging waste by setting binding re-use targets, restricting certain types of single-use packaging and requiring operators to minimise the amount of packaging used. Currently, wine is exempt from the re-use requirements. In addition, wine
is not required to be included in deposit return schemes, although individual member states may opt to include wine if they choose. While wine benefits from some flexibility under the new regulations, members should take note, as mandatory packaging requirements could be extended to wine in the future.
The EU’s Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive
The CSRD is a comprehensive sustainability regulatory framework that requires detailed reporting on business risks and opportunities arising from social and environmental issues, and the impacts of their activities on people and the environment. Reporting must be undertaken in accordance with a detailed set of disclosure standards.
We do not expect many NZW members
will be affected. The CSRD primarily targets EU-based companies, but from 2028 it will apply to non-EU parent entities with either an EU established subsidiary, or an EU branch, as well as €150 million in net turnover. Large businesses with significant activity in the EU will need to consider whether reporting requirements apply to them.
Any questions?
If you have any questions about the regulations outlined, or global trade issues more generally, please contact the NZW Advocacy Team (advocacy@ nzwine.com). The Advocacy Team actively monitors trade developments in all our major markets and will continue to update members.
Anna Cameron is Senior Legal Counsel in the NZW Advocacy Team
Disclaimer: This article is provided as general information and guidance and does not constitute legal advice. While all due care and attention has been exercised in preparing this article, neither New Zealand Winegrowers Inc nor its employees/agents accept any liability of any kind for any loss and/or damage that may arise from reliance on the information presented.
Current research projects
Research Supplement
A regular feature to inform and update the wine industry on research projects being undertaken for their benefit. Newly approved projects are briefly summarised when available. Ongoing projects have longer articles that describe progress and what has been achieved so far. When completed, each project report will be shared in full detail in the Research Library on nzwine.com.
Bragato Research Institute leads quality research and innovation that enables the New Zealand wine industry to thrive. They conduct research in-house and collaborate with research organisations throughout New Zealand. The main research provider for each project is listed below.
Updates are provided on the highlighted projects in this supplement.
Vineyard innovation
Next Generation Viticulture Programme
Bragato Research Institute
Evaluation of the short-term impact of remedial surgery on grapevine trunk disease and vineyard sustainability
Linnaeus, SARDI, Sutton McCarthy
Potential applications of nanotechnology for wine growing in New Zealand
University of Auckland
Varietal diversification: Cool climate aromatic white wine produced in Marlborough
Bragato Research Institute, EIT, NMIT
Central Otago Pinot Noir clonal trial
Bragato Research Institute, Otago Polytechnic, Riversun Nurseries
Chardonnay Clonal Micro vinificationHawkes Bay and Martinborough
Bragato Research Institute, Eastern Institute of Technology, University of Auckland
Elemental sulphur persistence on grape and mitigation strategies
Lincoln University
Increasing financial sustainability of Chardonnay in Hawke’s Bay through long spur pruning to increase yield
Eastern Institute of Technology
Long spur pruning as an alternative for Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc
Bragato Research Institute
Genetics for winegrowing
Sauvignon Blanc Grapevine Improvement Programme
Bragato Research Institute, Plant & Food Research, Lincoln University
National Vine Collection virus eradication
Bragato Research Institute
Rapid detection of fungicideresistance in grapevine powdery mildew in New Zealand
Bragato Research Institute
Graft-derived drought tolerance: identifying and functionally characterising graft-transmitted elements
Bragato Research Institute
Winemaking innovation
Exploring reductive aromas in Pinot noir
University of Auckland
Precipitation of calcium tartrate and other compounds in wine University of Canterbury
Lab on a Chip: Developing diagnostic devices for the wine industry University of Canterbury
Prevention of quercetin instability in bottled wine
Indevin
Sustainable winegrowing
UV light in vineyards to reduce fungicide dependence
Bragato Research Institute, A Lighter Touch
Microbial community and vine responses to increasing temperatures in the New Zealand context
University of Auckland
Evaluating water use efficiency and drought tolerance of various rootstocks grafted to Sauvignon Blanc
Bragato Research Institute
Varietal diversification – Cool climate aromatic white wine produced in Marlborough
Ngarita Warden, Dr Paul Epee - Bragato Research Institute
Introduction
Climate modelling by researchers at Lincoln University and Plant & Food Research forecast that Marlborough will be hotter, more humid, and have increased rain events at crucial vine growth periods over time.
As a grape variety, Albariño makes a similar style of wine to Sauvignon Blanc but is reported to have thicker skins in comparison to Sauvignon Blanc. This means Albariño is more tolerant to diseases such as powdery mildew, downy mildew and botrytis, which will naturally increase in incidence and severity with higher temperatures, rainfall and humidity.
Albariño in New Zealand is currently managed using conventional Sauvignon Blanc management practices (two-three cane vertical shoot positioning (VSP) and fruit exposure via leaf plucking). This management differs greatly from the pergola-based trellis system used for Albariño in Galician viticulture. It might not be suitable for mechanising and optimising this varietal’s potential in the New Zealand production context.
Summary of methods
Vineyard
This trial was established in a commercial vineyard block (Awatere Valley, Marlborough) planted with Albariño grafted on an unknown rootstock. Vines were pruned in winter 2023 according to a randomised design over two vine rows, three cane VSP for the control (3Cane), retaining six upright canes for the first treatment (6VCane23), and four cane VSP (4Cane) for the second treatment. On 6VCane23, every second bud was removed, resulting in an average total vine retained node number of 44. On 3Cane and 4Cane vines, no bud was removed, resulting in an average total
vine retained node number of 29 and 39, respectively.
Budburst percentage was measured by counting the total number of shoots per vine after budburst divided by the vine retained node number. Canopy development was assessed at four time points between budburst and veraison. The exposed
leaf area (ELA) was measured by taking canopy photos on a blue photo backdrop of 1.5m high over 2.0m wide. Photos were then transferred to ImageJ; canopy coverage was the ratio of ELA over the photo backdrop area (3.0m2).
Between veraison and harvest, 60 berries per bay were randomly
Photo 1. 6VCane vine in December 2023
Photo 2. 3Cane vine in December 2023
sampled fortnightly. Each sample was weighed, crushed, and sieved, and the juice was extracted for analysis. TSS (total soluble solids), titratable acidy (TA) and hydrogen potential (pH) were measured. At harvest, grape bunches were hand harvested, counted and weighed. Fruit harvested from 3Cane was only sufficient for one wine replicate, 4Cane resulted in two replicates, and 6VCane23 produced three replicates.
6VCane vines not only developed canopy faster over time but also grew a larger leaf area. They had the largest total leaf area (9.5m2), the highest number of leaf layers (1.5) and the largest leaf area index (2.1). This result implies that the 6VCane training system promoted greater leaf area and density, which could enhance photosynthetic efficiency and overall plant growth.
Winery
Each treatment was weighed, crushed and de-stemmed with the addition of Potassium Metabisulphite (PMS) and Ascorbic Acid for antioxidant protection. Post crush/destem, each treatment was pressed using a Diemme Enologia Membrane Press set to the Sauvignon Blanc 120 press cycle. Settling occurred at 7°C with the addition of Rapidase Expression Aroma enzyme and Seporit bentonite.
After transfer into 17L fermentation tanks, a compositional analysis was performed on the juice for TSS, pH, TA, Malic Acid and YAN (Yeast
Assimilable Nitrogen). Following settling, the juice was racked off solids into clean tanks, with tank temperature adjusted to 18°C in preparation for inoculation.
Fermivin F49 yeast and Activator nutrient were used for inoculation. Once fermentation was underway, all tank temperatures were reduced to 14°C, with daily monitoring of TSS and temperature.
Ferments received 140ppm PMS once enzymatic glucose/fructose levels <4g/L. A final wine composition analysis was performed for each treatment prior to bottling. Each wine was sterile filtered under inert nitrogen gas and bottled under screwcap.
Sensory analysis was performed on 18 July 2024. Descriptive sensory analysis was performed by a panel comprised of five males and five females, ranging from 31 to 51 years
of age. All panellists were winemakers experienced in making Marlborough aromatic white wines. Rstudio was used for data analysis.
Findings
Vineyard
Vines pruned to 6VCane developed significantly more shoots (67 shoots) than the other vine treatments – 37 and 46 shoots for 3Cane and 4Cane, respectively. The number of shoots was closely related to the budburst percentage, which was significantly higher on 6VCane vines (155%) than 3Cane and 4Cane vines.
The higher budburst percentage on 6VCane vines encouraged rapid canopy development. From budburst to veraison, 6VCane vines showed the highest canopy coverage at all three time points, starting at 74.1% (November), rising to 82.0% (December) and reaching 91.1% in February (Figure 1, Photo 1). The 4Cane treatment also exhibited
Figure 1. Pre-veraison canopy development. Means with different lowercase letters on the same date are significantly different with the Tukey test at p ≤ 0.05
significant growth, with canopy coverage increasing from 69.1%, to 75.0% and then to 81.5% in February (Figure 1, Photo 2).
6VCane vines not only developed canopy faster over time but also grew a larger leaf area. They had the largest total leaf area (9.5m2), the highest number of leaf layers (1.5) and the largest leaf area index (2.1). This result implies that the 6VCane training system promoted greater leaf area and density, which could enhance photosynthetic efficiency and overall plant growth.
Vine yield and vineyard yield were the highest on 6VCane vines, with 4.2kg and 9.5t/ha. The two main drivers of yield were bunch number per vine and average bunch mass. The bunch number per vine on 6VCane was 38, with an average bunch mass of 115.9g and 87.5 berries per bunch.
The 4Cane treatment recorded the second-highest vine and vineyard yield (3.6kg and 8.1t/ha, respectively), driven by the average bunch mass and berries per bunch (126.5g and 96). For the 3Cane treatment, the vine and vineyard yield were the lowest (3.3kg and 7.4t/ha). 3Cane vines had a reduced productivity due to a lower average bunch mass (90.8g) and berries number per bunch (67).
Winery
The 3Cane treatment had higher TSS (24.1°Brix) than either 4Cane or 6VCane (both 23.0°Brix). The lower yield, berry number per bunch relative to leaf layer could indicate that sugar accumulation happened at a quicker rate per berry and shrivel started before harvest in 3Cane.
TA and malic acid were lower in 3Cane than in treatments with more shaded canopies, as the malic acid degradation rate increases with increased sunlight exposure.
High TSS can cause attenuated fermentations, which was seen in the 3Cane treatment (Figure 2). Fermentation becomes sluggish when high ethanol concentration, in conjunction with high remaining sugars, becomes a toxic environment for yeast at the end of ferment. As a result, wine produced from the 3Cane had esters more in the spectrum of solvent and woody characteristics, rather than fresh fruit.
Increased shading in the vine canopy can increase concentrations of ethyl esters, acetate esters, and fatty acids in wine. The larger vine canopy in the 4Cane and 6VCane treatments seemed to encourage a greater concentration of ester precursors associated with floral, tropical and
citrus aromas, resulting in higher levels of ester formation during fermentation. This result was also reflected with sensory analysis.
Conclusion
In New Zealand, Albariño grapevines are currently trained to twothree cane VSP, a training system contrasting with large canopy systems in Galicia, Spain. This research investigated how an alternative training system that mimics a larger vine could affect the agronomic performance of Albariño, the chemical composition of the must, wine and wine sensory perception. Training Albariño grapevines to increase their size upward on a VSP trellis system promoted canopy development and yield with little effect on berry maturity and basic composition.
The 4Cane treatment, with moderate canopy shading and fruit load, contributed to wine perceived to have the most positive sensory attributes including more distinct fruit characteristics and overall complexity, compared to 3Cane and 6VCane treatments. This was supported by the ester and higher alcohol analysis.
Because these effects were measured over a single growing season, they are only indicative. To confirm these positive effects a multi-seasonal multi-site trial will be required.
Acknowledgement
This article was prepared with the contribution of Dr Fang Gou, Bragato Research Institute Data Manager, who analysed the data.
About the project
Thanks goes to Marlborough Research Centre for funding this study, and also to Chandre Honeth at Eastern Institute of Technology for her parallel research into shading of Albariño fruit and aroma development in Hawke’s Bay.
Figure 2. Fermentation kinetics
Investigating alternative training systems to boost vineyard productivity – Flowering to harvest season 2022-23
Dr Paul Epee, Bragato Research Institute
Introduction
Rising costs of production, together with falling profitability, warranted investigation into the potential for a step change in the productivity of winegrowing. As part of the sevenyear Next Generation Viticulture research programme, field trials were established in three Marlborough vineyards starting in winter 2022, to explore alternative ways of growing grapes in New Zealand. Sauvignon Blanc, the New Zealand wine industry’s iconic white grape variety, was studied alongside four other varieties – Riesling, Albariño,
Pinot Noir, and Lagrein. These trials aimed to investigate the potential of alternative training systems by reducing management costs and raising vineyard returns. The first article of the series, published in the previous issue of this magazine (Issue 149), reported the results of these trials from budburst to veraison. Six training systems were compared to the traditional head-cane VSP (or commercial control) practised on Sauvignon Blanc. All six new training systems had significantly higher retained node numbers ranging from two- to twelve-fold
that of the commercial control. They developed their foliage early in the growing season and covered the trellis faster, thus capturing more sunlight radiation early in the season. Although all seven training systems had similar exposed leaf areas, some grew a denser canopy (measured by leaf layer number), while others had a canopy density similar to the commercial control. Of all six alternative training systems, one stood out for its potential to carry more nodes (twice the control) without adversely affecting budburst and canopy density. This article
Photo by Richard Briggs
considers the effects of these training systems on the vine’s reproductive growth, fruit maturity, yield, vine balance ratios, retained biomass and vine vigour.
Vineyard description, training systems and measurements
The trial was established in a vineyard block northwest of Blenheim (Rapaura) and planted in the late 2000s. A detailed description of the trial site and the vine training treatments (Table 1) is presented and illustrated in the previous article (New Zealand Winegrower Issue 149). In brief, the vineyard block was planted to Vitis vinifera cv. Sauvignon Blanc grafted on an unknown rootstock genotype at 2.7 m row spacing and 1.8 m vine spacing. The vines were pruned in early September 2022 according to the seven training treatments (Table 1). Once visible, inflorescences were counted on two data vines per bay.
To assess flowering and fruit set, mesh bags were fitted on two inflorescences per vine in early November 2022 at the beginning of flowering, then removed in late January 2023 just before veraison. The content of the mesh bag (green bunches, aborted flowers, flower caps, bag label) was emptied into a tray, then green berries, live green ovaries (LGO) and aborted flowers were separated from the rachis, weighed and counted. The number of flowers per inflorescence was obtained by summing the number of green berries, LGOs and aborted flowers. The flower abortion rate was calculated by dividing the number of aborted flowers by the total number of flowers per inflorescence and the fruit set percentage by dividing the number of green berries by the total number of flowers per inflorescence. The number of inflorescences per shoot was obtained by dividing the number of inflorescences per vine by the vine’s shoot count.
From veraison to harvest, 30 berries were sampled weekly per bay (on
Vine training Node loads Training description
12VCane 161
2BudSpur 69
3Cane 34
4BudSpur 114
6VCane 84
Horizontal 120
Unpruned 409
12 vertical canes (six on either side of the vine) originating from two horizontal cordons
Two bud spurs retained along four cordons arranged in ‘V’ position on the trellis
Grower’s present practice of retaining three canes of approximately 10 to 12 nodes each (VSP)
Four bud spurs retained along four cordons arranged in ‘V’ position on the trellis
Six vertical canes (three on either side of the vine head) originating from two horizontal cordons
Cordons laid out vertically, and canes horizontally
Unpruned canopy with all canes (old and new canes) left on the vine to mimic minimal or nil pruning
Table 1 Description of training systems evaluated at the Rapaura site in the 2022-23 season These training systems are illustrated in the previous article of this series
Table 1 Description of training systems evaluated at the Rapaura site in the 2022-23 season. These training systems are illustrated in the previous article of this series.
3Cane and 12VCane Flowering and fruit set were comparable across all training systems (74% and 40%, respectively) despite a trend toward a higher flower abortion rate on 3Cane vines.
From veraison to harvest, 30 berries were sampled weekly per bay (on four vines). For 6VCane, 12VCane, Horizontal and Unpruned treatments, an equal number of berries (15 berries) was sampled at the lower part (from zero to 50 cm above the bottom fruiting wire) and higher part (from 50 cm to the top) of the canopy. Samples were processed within 48 hours for total soluble solids (TSS), titratable acidy (TA) and pH. Logarithmic and logistic growth functions were fitted to estimate maturity duration – i.e., days from TSS 8 to 21°Brix (logarithmic model), TA 35 to 9 g/l and pH 2.35 to 3.1 (logistic model).
Table 2. Flowering and fruit set of seven training systems in the 2022-23 season. Means sharing the same lowercase letter in a column are not significantly different with the Tukey test at p ≤ 0.05
Table 2 Flowering and fruit set of seven training systems in the 2022-23 season. Means sharing the same lowercase letter in a column are not significantly diUerent with the Tukey test at p ≤ 0.05.
Berry maturity and harvest
four vines). For 6VCane, 12VCane, Horizontal and Unpruned treatments, an equal number of berries (15 berries) was sampled at the lower part (from zero to 50 cm above the bottom fruiting wire) and higher part (from 50 cm to the top) of the canopy. Samples were processed within 48 hours for total soluble solids (TSS), titratable acidy (TA) and pH. Logarithmic and logistic growth functions were fitted to estimate maturity duration – i.e., days from TSS 8 to 21°Brix (logarithmic model), TA 35 to 9 g/l and pH 2.35 to 3.1 (logistic model).
Vines were planned to be harvested at the target TSS of 21°Brix. However, due to weather conditions, crop levels and disease pressure that year, some treatments were harvested before they reached the target TSS. Vines were hand-harvested by cutting and collecting whole bunches into crates. Bunches were counted and weighed. After leaf fall, dormant shoots were counted and six were sampled per vine to characterise their morphology (diameter, length, node number and internode length). In winter, all vines were pruned according to their training systems. On 3Cane vines, one-year- old and two -year- old wood were pruned oU and weighed separately The Unpruned treatment was trained back to the head- cane VSP system similar to the control treatment whenever possible On the other treatments (6VCane, 12VCane, Horizontal, 2BudSpur and 4BudSpur), one-year- old wood (canes) were removed retaining four buds spurs for 4BudSpur trained vines and two buds spurs for the rest of the treatments. Canes were weighed, and the remaining wood (vertical and horizontal cordons) was estimated by measuring individual cordon volumes and multiplying that value by the wood density.
Flowering and fruit set
TSS accumulation was the fastest throughout ripening on 3Cane vines (Figure 1), taking 43 days to go from 8 to 21°Brix 3Cane vines were harvested on 28 March 2023 at 21.1 °Brix. The second and third shorter ripening periods were observed on 2BudSpur and 6VCane vines with ripening durations of 77 and 87 days, respectively 2BudSpur and 6VCane were harvested on 18 April 2023 at 20.2 and 19.5 °Brix, respectively Treatments accumulating TSS at the slowest were 12VCane, Unpruned and Horizontal, with a ripening duration of 131, 114 and 112 days respectively
The drop in berry juice TA varied little across all training treatments (Figure 1). However, because 3Cane was harvested earlier (28 March 2023), it had the highest TA (10.5 g/l), whereas all other treatments had around 9.2 g/l The days from TA 35 to 9 g/l were not significantly diUerent across the seven training treatments, ranging between 47 and 51 days
There was very little to no variation in the chemical composition (TSS, TA, pH) of berries sampled at the top and bottom part of the canopy for 6VCane, 12VCane, Horizontal and Unpruned vines. 12VCane showed some diUerences between TSS of top and bottom berries on 13 – 28 March 2023 but disappeared at the end of the maturity period (3 – 18 April 2023). A similar pattern was observed in pH for 12VCane and 6VCane treatments Overall, berry maturity was uniform on the whole canopy This was an interesting result because these training systems (i.e., 6VCane, 12VCane, Horizontal and Unpruned) required spreading the fruiting zone over the whole canopy. This raised considerations about diUerential bunch maturation, as bunches at the top half of the canopy could possibly mature faster due to distal shoots growing more vigorously early in the season and carrying more leaves than proximal shoots at the bottom half of the canopy However, all bunches reached the same maturity by harvest time.
Vines were planned to be harvested at the target TSS of 21°Brix. However, due to weather conditions, crop levels and disease pressure that year, some treatments were harvested before they reached the target TSS. Vines were hand-harvested by cutting and collecting whole bunches into crates. Bunches were counted and weighed. After leaf fall, dormant shoots were counted and six were sampled per vine to characterise their morphology (diameter, length, node number
Yield components and source-sink relationship
and internode length). In winter, all vines were pruned according to their training systems. On 3Cane vines, one-year-old and two-year-old wood were pruned off and weighed separately. The Unpruned treatment was trained back to the head-cane VSP system similar to the control treatment whenever possible. On the other treatments (6VCane, 12VCane, Horizontal, 2BudSpur and 4BudSpur), one-year-old wood (canes) were removed retaining four buds spurs for 4BudSpur trained vines and two buds spurs for the rest of the treatments. Canes were weighed, and the remaining wood (vertical and horizontal cordons) was estimated by measuring individual cordon volumes and multiplying that value by the wood density.
pH increased steadily across all treatments except for Unpruned and Horizontal, where the increase was significantly slower. The days from pH 2.35 to 3.1 were not significantly diUerent between these two treatments (~65 days) but were the longest compared to other treatments. That duration was the shortest for 2BudSpur vines (42 days) and shorter for 4BudSpur, 3Cane and 6VCane (~55 days)
Flowering and fruit set varied greatly between training treatments. The total number of inflorescences per vine was directly related to retained node numbers, with 12VCane and Unpruned vines carrying significantly more inflorescences (Tables 1 and 2). The number of inflorescences per shoot followed a diUerent pattern unrelated to the retained node number 2BudSpur and 4BudSpur had the first and second lowest number of inflorescences per shoot. Because these vines were spurpruned, lower node positions on canes were selected, and these nodes are thought to have lower fruitfulness as they usually carry fewer inflorescence primordia. Interestingly, these two treatments also had the lowest number of flowers per inflorescence (Table 2), suggesting that fruitfulness is a function of the number and the size of inflorescence primordia. Horizontal and Unpruned vines had the second and third lowest inflorescence per shoot, whereas 6VCane had the highest, followed by
Flowering and fruit set
Flowering and fruit set varied greatly between training treatments. The total number of inflorescences per vine was directly related to retained node numbers, with 12VCane and Unpruned vines carrying significantly more inflorescences (Tables 1 and 2).
The yield and bunch number per vine were linearly related to both retained node and shoot numbers, and training systems with higher node and shoot numbers produced more fruit per vine and hectare (Figure 2). 3Cane vines had the lowest yield (13.8 t/ha) and Unpruned the highest (47.9 t/ha), almost
The number of inflorescences per shoot followed a different pattern unrelated to the retained node number. 2BudSpur and 4BudSpur had the first and second lowest number of inflorescences per shoot. Because these vines were spur-pruned, lower node positions on canes were selected, and these nodes are thought to have lower fruitfulness as they usually carry fewer inflorescence primordia. Interestingly, these two treatments also had the lowest number of flowers per inflorescence (Table 2), suggesting that fruitfulness is a function of the number and the size of inflorescence primordia. Horizontal and Unpruned vines had the second and third lowest inflorescence per shoot, whereas 6VCane had the highest, followed by 3Cane and 12VCane. Flowering and fruit set were comparable across all training systems (74% and 40%, respectively) despite a trend toward a higher flower abortion rate on 3Cane vines.
Berry maturity and harvest
TSS accumulation was the fastest throughout ripening on 3Cane vines (Figure 1), taking 43 days to go from 8 to 21°Brix. 3Cane vines were harvested on 28 March 2023 at 21.1 °Brix. The second and third shorter ripening periods were observed on 2BudSpur and 6VCane vines with ripening durations of 77 and 87 days, respectively. 2BudSpur and 6VCane were harvested on 18 April 2023 at 20.2 and 19.5 °Brix, respectively. Treatments accumulating TSS at the slowest were 12VCane, Unpruned and Horizontal, with a ripening duration of 131, 114 and 112 days respectively.
pH increased steadily across all treatments except for Unpruned and Horizontal, where the increase was significantly slower. The days from pH 2.35 to 3.1 were not significantly different between these two treatments (~65 days) but were the longest compared to other treatments. That duration was the shortest for 2BudSpur vines (42 days)
and shorter for 4BudSpur, 3Cane and 6VCane (~55 days).
The drop in berry juice TA varied little across all training treatments (Figure 1). However, because 3Cane was harvested earlier (28 March 2023), it had the highest TA (10.5 g/l), whereas all other treatments had around 9.2 g/l. The days from TA 35 to 9 g/l were not significantly different across the seven training treatments, ranging between 47 and 51 days.
There was very little to no variation in the chemical composition (TSS, TA, pH) of berries sampled at the top and bottom part of the canopy for 6VCane, 12VCane, Horizontal and Unpruned vines. 12VCane showed some differences between TSS of top and bottom berries on 13 – 28 March 2023 but disappeared at the end of the maturity period (3 – 18 April 2023). A similar pattern was observed in pH for 12VCane and 6VCane treatments. Overall, berry maturity was uniform on the whole canopy. This was an interesting result because these training systems (i.e., 6VCane, 12VCane, Horizontal and Unpruned) required spreading the fruiting zone over the whole canopy. This raised considerations about differential bunch maturation, as bunches at the top half of the canopy could possibly mature faster due to distal shoots growing more vigorously early in the season and carrying more leaves than proximal shoots at the bottom half of the canopy. However, all bunches reached the same maturity by harvest time.
Yield components and sourcesink relationship
Bunch morphology was greatly affected by training systems. On 2BudSpur and 4BudSpur vines, bunches had intermediate mass (143 g), with significantly bigger but fewer berries; 3Cane vines had bigger bunches (166.8 g) carrying both bigger and more berries; unpruned vines had very small bunches (118.5 g) carrying fewer and smaller berries. Of all yield components, bunch mass per shoot was the most stable, followed by the average bunch mass and berry number per bunch.
The analyses of the source-sink relationship (i.e., exposed leaf area to fruit mass ratio – ELA/FM) revealed that all training systems except the 3Cane commercial control had low or very low source-sink ratios. It has been shown that the lower the source-sink ratio, the slower the TSS accumulation. Admittedly, Unpruned, Horizontal and 12VCane took significantly longer to reach 21°Brix (>110 days) and pH 3.1 (>65 days). Trying to achieve the maximum yield within the limits of the existing trellis and management system at that site came at the expense of adequate fruit composition. However, when the three highest-yielding training systems were excluded (i.e., Unpruned, Horizontal and 12VCane), there was no clear relationship between the source-sink ratio and the other two maturity components (TA, pH). The days required to reach pH 3.1 and TA 9 g/l were not statistically different, ranging from 49 – 57 days for pH and 47 – 51 days for TA.
The yield and bunch number per vine were linearly related to both retained node and shoot numbers, and training systems with higher node and shoot numbers produced more fruit per vine and hectare (Figure 2). 3Cane vines had the lowest yield (13.8 t/ha) and Unpruned the highest (47.9 t/ ha), almost 3.5 times the commercial control, followed by Horizontal (44.5 t/ha) and 12VCane (39.6 t/ha). Intermediate yields were measured on 2BudSpur, 4BudSpur, and 6VCane, respectively, at 25.7, 27.8, and 29.3 t/ha. However, 6VCane yielded significantly more than 2BudSpur and 4BudSpur for a comparable number of shoots per vine.
The higher-yielding training systems (2BudSpur, 4BudSpur and 6VCane) had an ELA/FM of 0.5 m2/kg, which might be considered suboptimal
2022-23 growing season.
Means with different lowercase letters on the same date are significantly different with the Tukey test at p ≤ 0.05
Figure 1. Maturity progression in the
compared to 1.2 m2/kg for 3Cane. However, a recent study* found that a source-sink ratio of 0.75 m2/kg was sufficient to bring New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc grapes to the desired maturity. Therefore, slightly adjusting the crop level at pruning the following winter would bring the source-sink closer to the desired ratio
with positive outcomes for sugar accumulation. It is also important to note that with the 6VCane training system, the intention is to extend the height of the annual vine canopy to about 2.2 m in subsequent years. This will increase the total ELA with positive effects to sugar accumulation rate.
Vigour characteristics and retained biomass
Vigour was highest on 3Cane vines with significantly longer, stockier and heavier canes than other treatments (Table 3). Despite carrying the lowest number of shoots, 3Cane vines had the highest one-year-old wood or total cane mass (1.7 kg).
Figure 2. Yield component in the 2022-23 season. Means sharing the same lowercase letter are not significantly different with the Tukey test at p ≤ 0.05
Figure 3 Proportion of Fresh vegetative biomass retained and removed at winter pruning at the end of the 2022-23 growing season. Biomass includes canes (one-year- old wood) and cordons (twoyear- old wood and/or older wood) mass, excluding trunk, head and roots.
Treatment
m2/kg kg/kg
Table 3 Vine balance ratios and dormant shoot morphology. Means sharing the diUerent lowercase letters in a column are significantly diUerent with the Tukey test at p ≤ 0.05.
Vigour control through alternative training systems was one objective of this study because managing excess vigour in the vineyard is costly. 6VCane and 4BudSpur shoots had intermediate vigour, with Unpruned, Horizontal and 12VCane falling at the lower end of the vigour spectrum. The latter vines also had the highest fruit mass to cane mass (FM/CM) ratio (>15 kg/kg). The FM/ CM indicates the balance between vegetative and fruit growth and values falling between 5 and 10 kg kg-1 are considered optimal for most grape varieties. A recent study* on Sauvignon Blanc showed that FM/ CM of 3 – 6 kg/kg was adequate at some New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc vineyard sites on head-cane VSP training systems. With our current understanding of the optimal vine balance metrics it may seem that vines with an FM/CM above 10 kg kg-1 were overcropped. However, as these vines under the new training systems reach stability over the years (i.e. have a fully developed canopy with well-established horizontal and vertical cordons), vine balance ratios (ELA/FM and FM/CM) presently understood to be optimal could become irrelevant or inappropriate under the new training systems.
The proportion of biomass retained versus removed at winter pruning was another distinctive feature of the seven training systems. Of all seven training systems, 3Cane, 4BudSpur and 2BudSpur produced the least vegetative biomass (canes and cordons), but 3Cane only retained 7% of its canopy biomass, the lowest, versus 23% and 29% for 4BudSpur and 2BudSpur respectively (Figure 3). With cane pruning, nearly 95% of the annual growth is removed, constituting an immense biomass loss for the vine. Horizontal, 12VCane and 6VCane had the three highest percentages of retained biomass; the higher the number of cordons, the larger the amount of retained biomass (Figure 3). For instance, 2BudSpur and 4BudSpur had the lowest number of cordons (four), and they only retained less than 1 kg biomass, whereas Unpruned, HORIZONTAL , 12VCane and 6VCane (with ~40, 18, 14 and eight cordons respectively) retained more biomass. Except for Unpruned vines, which underwent an atypical pruning regime, and 3Cane vines which were cane-pruned, the rest were spur-pruned. With spur pruning, only one-year-old wood is removed, keeping older woods on the vine, thus promoting more retained
biomass. Granted, retained biomass contributes to carbohydrate reserves and resilience to frost and other abiotic stresses. With potentially more carbohydrate reserves, these vines were in a better position to support early shoot growth after dormancy the following spring.
Key takeaways from the first season of conversion to new training systems
The first season of this investigation into new training systems to lift New Zealand vineyard productivity was rich in information, learnings and lessons. The potential of seven training systems was examined, and the new training systems had significantly higher retained node numbers than the traditional 3Cane commercial control. They actively developed more shoots shortly after budburst, thus harvesting more sunlight radiation. They produced significantly more fruit despite a longer ripening period than the control. Finally, these training systems grew and kept more biomass. Of all six alternative training systems, 6VCane stood out for its potential to carry more nodes, shoots, inflorescences, fruits, and retained biomass. Throughout the growth stages, 6VCane and, in some cases,
Table 3. Vine balance ratios and dormant shoot morphology.
2BudSpur almost always sat in the middle or at the optimal position in the spectrum. At budburst, 6VCane vines had the optimal budburst percentage, and at veraison, the canopy density was no denser than the 3Cane commercial control despite carrying twice its shoot number. Removing every second shoot along upright cordons was decided to further reduce canopy density. Doing so will also bring ELA/FM and FM/CM ratios to levels conducive to optimal ripening. These interim outcomes
make it clear that modifying the vine training system can considerably alter vineyard productivity potential. The capabilities and properties of the most promising training systems will be refined over the coming seasons to ensure that fruit grown is of the type, style, and quality required by wineries.
*Epee, P. T. M., Schelezki, O., Trought, M. C. T., Werner, A., Hofmann, R. W., Almond, P., Charters, S., & Parker, A. (2024). Effects of retained node
numbers on berry maturity and yield components of cane-pruned Sauvignon blanc. Oeno One, 58(3). https://doi.org/10.20870/oenoone.2024.58.3.7930
Acknowledgement
This article was prepared with the contribution of Dr Fang Gou, Bragato Research Institute Data Manager, who analysed the data, and Dr Stuart Tustin, Next Generation Viticulture Science Advisor, who reviewed the article.
Proportion of fresh vegetative biomass retained and removed at winter pruning at the end of the 2022-23 growing season. Biomass includes canes (one-year-old wood) and cordons (two-year-old wood and/or older wood) mass, excluding trunk, head and roots
About the programme:
The Next Generation Viticulture Programme is a seven-year programme that is a partnership between the Ministry for Primary Industries, New Zealand Winegrowers, and seven wine business co-investors contributing cash and in-kind. Bragato Research Institute is contracted to deliver the programme. The programme’s vision is to increase vineyard productivity without compromising wine quality or the environment.
Figure 3.
Molecular Diagnostics to identify fungicide resistance in New Zealand Vineyards
Dr Cen Liau, Research Associate – Grapevine Bioinformatics
Battling fungicide resistance in vineyards
Powdery mildew, caused by the fungus Erysiphe necator, is a persistent problem for grape growers worldwide. If untreated, powdery mildew can cause significant loss, as even minor infections of berries can have a detrimental effect on wine quality. To manage powdery mildew, growers use a combination of traditional fungicides such as sulphur or copper, as well as modern, targeted options such as Succinate Dehydrogenase Inhibitors (SDHIs), Quinone Outside Inhibitors (QoIs), and Demethylation Inhibitors (DMIs).
However, the powdery mildew pathogen is highly adaptable and can quickly develop genetic variants to survive fungicide application. Without regular monitoring, the effectiveness
of these fungicides can diminish, putting crops at risk.
How resistance develops
Broad-spectrum or multisite fungicides like sulphur and copper are tough for fungi to outsmart. These fungicides attack multiple parts of the fungus’s metabolism, making it hard for the fungus to develop resistance. For a fungus to survive these treatments, it would need to mutate in several different genes at once, which is unlikely. In comparison, targeted single-site inhibitors, such as QoIs, DMIs, or SDHIs, target a specific site within the fungus. Because of this, the fungus often only needs a single genetic mutation to resist the fungicide. For example, resistance to QoIs is often linked to a specific mutation in the CYTB gene, while DMI resistance is associated with a
mutation in the CYP51 gene.
The growing concern
In New Zealand, data on the extent of fungicide resistance in grapevine powdery mildew is limited. Research from nearly a decade ago documented resistance to some DMI fungicides like myclobutanil and penconazole, and complete resistance to the QoI fungicide trifloxystrobin. A follow-up study in 2017 found no resistance to SDHIs like fluopyram. However, the powdery mildew pathogen has shown the capacity to develop resistance within just a few years. The development of resistance to the same fungicides in several other crop pathogens has also been documented. Therefore, an updated and regular survey of fungicide resistance in grapevine powdery mildew is essential.
Molecular diagnostics vs traditional method
Traditionally, fungicide resistance has been identified using lab-based tests on grape leaves. In these tests, powdery mildew is grown on detached leaves in the lab and then tested against the fungicides of interest. While these methods are reliable, they are time-consuming and resource-heavy, making them difficult to use for large-scale surveys. Molecular diagnostics offer a faster, more efficient solution. By identifying those specific genetic changes in the target gene of a particular fungicide linked to resistance, these tools can quickly determine whether a fungus has adapted to a particular fungicide.
These molecular methods make it possible to test for multiple types of resistance simultaneously, providing reliable results with a quicker turnaround time compared to traditional methods.
New research efforts in New Zealand
A new research project, with the collaboration of scientists from Bragato Research Institute and Plant & Food Research, aims to develop a molecular diagnostic tool to detect fungicide-resistant powdery mildew in New Zealand’s vineyards. This tool will focus on detecting the most common genetic variants responsible for fungicide resistance in E. necator. Additionally, multi-gene sequencing will be employed to uncover any previously uncharacterised variants. The degree to which the presence of a genetic marker contributes to
resistance to a particular fungicide will need to be initially verified against the phenotypic assay.
Mapping the resistance landscape
One of the critical goals of this project is to map the prevalence and diversity of fungicide resistance across two of New Zealand’s key grape-growing regions. Armed with the molecular diagnostic tool and validation with the gold-standard phenotypic assay, researchers will conduct a survey of E. necator populations. This effort will provide a long-overdue update on the state of fungicide resistance in New Zealand vineyards.
Helping growers stay one step ahead
By understanding where and how resistance is emerging, growers can adopt targeted strategies to
help manage powdery mildew. For instance, if resistance to a particular fungicide is found to be widespread in a region, vineyard managers can adjust their spray programs to include alternative fungicides or integrate non-chemical control measures. This project will provide information on the status of fungicide efficacy in two key winegrowing regions in New Zealand and the availability of a validated molecular diagnostic tool will provide the wine industry with a critical resource for safeguarding their crops.
About the project
This one-year project is a collaboration between Bragato Research Institute and Plant & Food Research scientists. It is funded by the New Zealand Winegrowers levy.
Figure 1. E.necator spores on grapevine leaf viewed under microscope
Figure 2. DNA sequencing result showing a mutation in the CYP51 gene (Y136F) in E. necator causing resistance to DMI fungicide
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