New Zealand Winegrower Aug/Sept 2013 by Rural News Group

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CONTENTS

ISSUE 81

30 R E GUL A R S

Editorial

Looking To The Future

Tessa Nicholson

An in-depth look at what issues the New Zealand wine industry may face as we move forward. Comments from Dr Richard Smart, Peter McAtamney, Marija Batisich, Caine Thompson and Dr David Jordan.

From the CEO

Philip Gregan

FEATURES

Regional Viewpoint

James Medina – Hawke’s Bay

Preparing for Vintage 2014

In Brief

News From Around the Country

With the 2013 vintage proving to be our largest ever, what are the predictions for 2014? While the weather at flowering will have the final say, the signs are there that next year could be substantially bigger.

50 Sommelier’s Corner

Cameron Douglas MS

Bob’s Blog

Bob Campbell MW

Insidious Powdery Mildew

Despite being one of the best summers in a long time, many growers around the country were caught out with powdery mildew outbreaks. Prevention is always better than cure, and this month we look at how to achieve that.

A Reason to Whine

As the saying goes, there are only two things for certain in life – death and taxes. Lee Suckling takes a close look at how much the government takes from an average bottle of wine here in New Zealand and how we stack up against the rest of the world.

110 Not on the Label

Legal Matters

117 Calendar

Wine happenings in New Zealand

118 Research Supplement

The latest science and research projects funded by NZ Winegrowers FRONT COVER: Ballochdale Estates - Marlborough, supplied by NZWinegrowers

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NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013 // 3

E D I TO R Tessa Nicholson tessa.nicholson@me.com

FROM THE EDITOR TESSA NICHOLSON

CO R R E SP O N D E NTS Auckland: Joelle Thomson jthomson@xtra.co.nz Wairarapa: Barbara Gillham barbarag@value.net.nz Gisborne: Christine Boyce christineboyce@gmail.com Hawkes Bay: Mary Shanahan maryshanahan173@gmail.com Nelson: Neil Hodson neil@hodgson.net.nz Canterbury: Jo Burzynska joburzynska@talk21.com Central Otago: Max Marriott max@maxmarriott.com

Where the New Zealand wine industry has come from and where is it heading, is the theme of this issue of NZ Winegrower magazine. Hard on the heels of the largest vintage, it is timely to look at the future – not just the immediate future, but the decades to come.

A DV E R T I SI N G Kaye Sutherland kayes@ruralnews.co.nz Ph: 03 376 5552 Mobile: 021 221 1994 Stephen Pollard stephenp@ruralnews.co.nz Ph: 09 913 9637 Mobile: 021 963 166 www.nzwinegrower.co.nz

C I R C U L AT I O N & SUBSCRIPTIONS Lorraine Rudelj lorraine@nzwine.com Ph: 09 303 3527 Fax: 09 302 2969 New Zealand Winegrowers PO Box 90 276, Auckland Mail Centre, New Zealand

PUBLISHING & P R E - P R E SS Rural News Group PO Box 3855, Auckland 1140 Ph: 09 307 0399 Location: Top Floor, 29 Northcroft Street, Takapuna, Auckland 0622 Publisher: Brian Hight Managing Editor: Adam Fricker Production: Dave Ferguson, Rebecca Williams

Published by Rural News Group Ltd under authority of New Zealand Winegrowers (jointly representing Wine Institute of New Zealand Inc and New Zealand Grape Growers Council Inc). Unless directly attributed, opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of Rural News Group and/ or its directors or management, New Zealand Winegrowers or its constituent organisations. Published every second month. One free copy is mailed to every member of the Institute, the Council, the New Zealand Society of Viticulture & Oenology and the New Zealand Vine Improvement Group, and to such other persons or organisations as directed by the owners, with provision for additional copies and other recipients to be on a subscription basis.

ISSN 1174-5223

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NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

of what we can grow and achieve. Other specially given that this month wine producing regions would have taken marks the 40th anniversary of the hundreds of years to achieve what has been first modern day grape plantings in achieved here in such a short time.” Marlborough. The date was August But what of the future? Given Bragato 24, 1973. There were few who believed this year is all about learning from our grapes could grow so far south, let alone past to ensure we don’t make the same many who could relate to Frank Yukich’s mistakes moving forward, I thought it was goal of turning the sleepy little province appropriate to ask some experts where into an internationally renowned wine they see the New Zealand wine industry producer. Yet that is exactly what has going. Dr Richard Smart happened and all who played an integral within just four role in establishing decades. From a secure viticultural small producer of a range of less “It’s still morning in New Zealand practices here, takes than desirable in terms of what we can grow and a look at where New Zealand wine may be in wines, New achieve. Other wine producing 2053. Peter McAtamney Zealand now has regions would have taken from Wine Business a wine industry hundreds of years to achieve what Solutions looks closely worth more than $1.2 billion has been achieved here in such a at the future markets – what are consumers in exports and short time.” likely to want, and Marlborough has how can New Zealand played a massive consolidate on the role in that hard work of the past? growth. Caine Thompson looks at some specific Randy Weaver, Director of Wine viticultural issues, while researcher Dr Science at Auckland University was one David Jordan considers where the greatest of Montana’s early winemakers, arriving threat to the industry lies, in terms of the here from America in 1973. He admits the vineyard. Then to round it all off Marija change since then has been nothing short Batisich from Bell Gully contemplates the of phenomenal. From “terrible grape legal issues of the future, such as alcohol varieties,” like Albany Surprise, Palomino reform, urban encroachment and water and Baco 27A, New Zealand is now a world rights. leader in Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and So as we celebrate an outstanding 40 is hitting its strides with a number of other years of growth in New Zealand, it is also classic varieties. All in just 40 years. the perfect time to think about how we He believes it is only just the beginning. prepare for the next 40. “It’s still morning in New Zealand in terms

FROM THE CEO PHILIP GREGAN

DÉJÀ VU OR NOT? So Vintage 2013 is well over now – the initial reports on wine quality seem positive matching the weather during harvest.

owever, the vintage total of 345,000 tonnes seems to have come as a surprise to many as there seemed to be an expectation amongst growers and wineries for a crop of between 320,000 and 330,000 tonnes. Export shipments from the new vintage have begun very strongly with over 8 million litres of current vintage Sauvignon Blanc exported in May and June, more than twice as much as in any previous year. This suggests that for some brands at least the distribution pipeline was fairly empty following the small 2012 vintage. While the vintage is a record for the industry, this needs to be kept in perspective. Vintage 2012 was very small and a better comparison for the vintage is with 2011. Compared with that vintage production is up only 5% in 2013, a manageable increase one would think. The combination of low stocks and strong sales suggest the harvest volume will be manageable in the year ahead. However that is a ‘gut’ feeling only. To put some data around the prospects for the year ahead, NZW has reinstituted the Export Projection Survey among medium and large wineries. Hopefully this will provide a good guide for the sales outlook over the next three years. When the Vintage 13 data was released at the Grape

read think 2013 & 2014 instead Days in June it was clear that of 2008 & 2009: the thoughts of many in the In many ways the key issue for audience turned immediately the industry is not the challenge to Vintage 2014. If Vintage 2013 provided by vintage 2008, was that big, what would happen significant though that is. Rather in 2014? Could the industry the key issue/question is how large handle a vintage of more than is Vintage 2009 going to be … or 350,000 tonnes in 2014? more particularly how big should Supply demand management it be? is a theme I have mentioned on This is because the size of a number of occasions in these Vintage 2009 pages as it is will determine a notoriously whether or difficult but not the supply very important Just as the industry can challenge task in our influence the supply/ presented by industry. vintage 2008 is One of demand balance by its compounded or the occasions sales performance in I dwelt on the year ahead, so it can not. At this supply demand also determine the size stage of course, management of the crop by its use of industry sales was exactly vineyard management performance in 5 years ago, the year ahead just prior tools including to Bragato pruning, shoot and crop is not known and the price 2008, when thinning. at which those I discussed sales will be the industry’s achieved is also grape/wine not known. In requirements from Vintage 2009 following the addition we do not know the size of vintage 2009 and whether frosts or record 2008 crop. poor fruit set will intervene as they Be clear I am not in any way did in 2003, 2005 and 2007. suggesting the industry is in However, it would seem the same position now as it extremely unwise for the industry was in 2008 - it is not, as the to rely too much on Mother Nature differences between then and to maintain a desirable supply/ now are many. However the words of August demand balance. That would be taking a very large risk indeed. 2008 bear repeating and the Just as the industry can principles underlying them are influence the supply/demand worth consideration … as you

balance by its sales performance in the year ahead, so it can also determine the size of the crop by its use of vineyard management tools including pruning, shoot and crop thinning. In a relatively free and open market production environment such as we have in New Zealand those decisions are taken by individual wineries and growers. Collective(ly) decisions by the individuals, however, determine the collective size of the vintage, so those individual decisions are very important. So, the future is in your hands. Wineries in the year ahead need to realistically determine their supply needs out of vintage 2009. They need to clearly communicate that information to their growers so that the growers can respond to it. Without that communication between individual wineries and growers the chance of the industry successfully managing the supply demand equation over the next 18 months will be greatly reduced. As I have said – I am not suggesting the industry is in the same position in 2013 as it was in 2008. However, the need each year for growers and wineries to be strongly market led in assessing future grape/wine requirements is fundamental to success in our business. Further there must be good communication between growers and wineries. So déjà vu – no, not if we learn from the past! ■

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013 // 5

REGIONAL VIEWPOINT HAWKE’S BAY

EYES WIDE OPEN JAMES MEDINA

- C E O H A W K E ’ S B AY W I N E G R O W E R S I N C

hat a fabulous time to come on board Hawke’s Bay Winegrowers Inc. with not only a vintage to remember, but with an organization and community that wants change. The last five months have been one of observation, learning and doing as only a sole employee can. As a regional marketing organization we have depended on levy funding passed through New Zealand Wine and with the recent funding model change this has provided more certainty for the core services we provide. Regardless, both the organization and its members aspire to more and resources are required. The level of collaboration observed in the industry is notable and will provide the basis for more partnerships. We are a group of relatively small producers on the world scale and one way we can make an impact is by working together. We all

realize it and I can’t wait to work with our members and develop our own models and see further examples being developed by others in the near future. New Zealand Winegrowers marketing strategy targets Northern Europe, North American and China with execution focusing on educating the educators and influencers about New Zealand wine. Thanks to collaboration from NZTE and NZW we look forward to seeing inroads made into these markets. From a Hawke’s Bay regional perspective, this is a great platform, but we need to go deeper and we are looking to augment this with efforts of our own. We see China as being the best long term market for us and with our finite resources we need to focus our efforts as a regional marketing organisation. The topic of water has come to the boiling point here in the Hawke’s Bay. The Hawke’s

Bay Regional Council is looking to make changes to the Regional Resource Management Plan. The outcome of this could negatively impact our industry. This is a national issue as Hawke’s Bay produces a major portion of the countries full-bodied reds that many wineries outside our region rely on. Our association, through the leadership of grower Xan Harding, has partnered with Hort NZ, Pipfruit NZ, Hawkes Bay Vegetable Growers Association, Hawkes Bay Fruitgrowers Association and Heinz Watties in putting forth a submission. At this point we have to also take a worst case position and consider that the Ruataniwha Water Storage Scheme will not go forward. Stay tuned for the outcome as it may have downstream effects (no pun intended) on other regions.

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Lastly, I believe we need to look at sustainability in broader terms at least from an internal standpoint. Sustainability needs to be viewed from a triple bottom line point of view. Without a focus on people, financial performance and environmental aspects the whole cannot be sustainable. After coming from the Hawkes’s Bay Vineyard Monitoring meeting where the most recent results were reviewed, I was concerned with the results. We need to learn and share best in class management practices or there is going to be rationalisation to come. ■

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IN BRIEF

National Young Winemaker of the Year Nominations are now open for this prestigious competition. Open to winemakers in Australia and New Zealand the competition aims to promote winemaking excellence. Eligible winemakers have to be aged 35 years or under and have to submit three wines they have had a major role in producing. Event coordinator Lydia Barrie says nominations can come from friends, family, peers, suppliers, customers or the winemakers themselves. There are two judging Nick Picone phases. There is an initial tasting of all nominations in mid September, which then determines the top 10 finalists. Those 10 will be assessed again, culminating in the award of the Young Winemaker of the Year. Last year’s winner, New Zealand’s Nick Picone from Villa Maria Estate will be one of the four judges, alongside Ian McKenzie, Toni Paterson MW and James Halliday. So if you are interested in nominating someone, or even yourself – you have to do so by 5pm August 30. For more information visit www.youngwinemaker. com.au

Villa Celebrates New Label Villa Maria Estates has launched a new label across its entire range of wines to freshen the brand, which winery owner and founder, Sir George Fistonich, says needed invigorating. The first wine to bear the new look label is the 2013 Villa Maria Marlborough Early Release Sauvignon Blanc; launched in the first week of June this year. The new labels were designed with a nod toward the winery’s history including the red ‘V’, a stylised version of a medal ribbon and a crown, which Sir George says symbolises the pursuit of quality and triumph over the company’s brief receivership in the 1980s. “We’re starting a new era by giving an old favourite, that we’ve loved and cherished for the past 50 years, a fresh new look,” he says.

NZ Wine Flavoured Popcorn It has been receiving rave reviews, despite the hefty price tag. Popcorn, infused with New Zealand Pinot Noir or Sauvignon Blanc. Kim Crawford wines has paired up with New York’s Populance, with the end result being cans of popcorn, that are wine flavoured without the alcohol content. The cans sell for NZ$36, which places them at the high end of the novelty snack chain. The Pinot Noir Chocolate Drizzle requires two-thirds of a cup of red wine per 1/3 cup of kernels. It is reduced with butter in a saucepan then added to tempered chocolate that is drizzled over the cooked popcorn. The Sauvignon Blanc Kettle calls for one tablespoon of the white wine per quartercup of kernels and is added early in the process while still uncooked, along with sugar and fresh lemon zest. Unfortunately though, you will have to travel to America to try out this latest fad – it is not available here in New Zealand.

Levy Rates Pursuant to Article 9 of the Wine (Grape Wine Levy) Order 2010, it was resolved at the

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Board Meeting of the Wine Institute of New Zealand 20 June 2013 that the levy rate to

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

apply to sales of grape wine, or the grape wine component of grape wine products, from 1 July

2013 to 30 June 2014 be fixed at the existing rate of 2.5 cents per litre.

AUCKLAND End of an Era Ken Christie finishes as general manager at Goldie Winery (formerly Goldwater Estate) on Waiheke Island this year. His role was temporary to establish the Goldie brand and relocate the University’s Wine Science programme to the island. The Goldie winemaker, Heinrich Storm, will step into Christie’s shoes as winemaker and operations manager at the winery. Christie says it feels like the last leg of the family’s hand-over to the University of Auckland. “Our direct involvement with the industry is coming to an end. But on the other hand, I’m conscious that we’ll no doubt continue to be peripherally interested in the winery and science programme activities, given our on-going island and university connections. I’m confident the Goldie brand and the University of Auckland’s Wine Science programme will provide a positive contribution to the wine industry as a whole.”

MARTINBOROUGH Ata Rangi Supreme Winner Congrats to Ata Rangi’s Clive and Phyll Paton, who were awarded the Dominion Post Wellington Supreme Gold Award last month. Established to recognize Wellington’s successful business, The Gold Awards have acknowledged some of the country’s major companies in past years, including Weta Workshop, Xero and the AXA Wellington sevens. Ata Rangi was founded in 1980 and is renowned as a premium producer of Pinot Noir. In the last year it turned over $4.2m. In self-deprecating style, owner Clive Paton said of the win – “We were all a bit stunned.”

CENTRAL OTAGO

Welcome Addition Congrats to NZWinegrower correspondent, viticulturist and winemaker Max Marriott and partner Siobahn Wootten on the birth of their daughter Audrey on June 1st. Hopefully all those early morning calls for frost patrol have helped prepare Max for the weeks ahead.

Air New Zealand Wine Awards

Cuisine Award Queenstown’s Amisfield Winery and Bistro has been named New Zealand’s best winery restaurant in the prestigious Cuisine NZ Good Food Awards. It’s not the first time the company has been recognised for its food and service. Amisfield Winery and Bistro won the same award back in 2006 and 2007. This year they have also been awarded a coveted “hat”, a new rating reflecting its high standard of food, service, wine and ambience.

The stunning location of Queenstown will provide the backdrop for this year’s Air New Zealand Wine Awards dinner. New Zealand’s most prestigious wine show, the awards dinner will be held at the Queenstown Events Centre on November 23. Entries for the competition open on August 13, with judging taking place in Auckland between November 4 and 6.

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NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013 // 9

LOOKING AHEAD

LOOKING TO THE FUTURE With the Romeo Bragato theme this year being Back to The Future, NZWinegrower decided it would be interesting to see what experts in their field believe the wine industry will look like in the future. What will be the viticultural, research, market and legal issues facing the New Zealand wine industry as we move forward? Over the next few pages, those experts share their thoughts.

NEW ZEALAND VITICULTURE IN 2053 DR RICHARD SMART

have been asked to be clairvoyant, and write about viticulture in 40 year’s time. This is to write about uncertainty, but I hope my ideas might include some intelligent guesswork. One thing is for sure, that no-one will wave this article in front of me in 40 years time, and tell me that I am right, or wrong! I will consider this scenario under several topics; to guess about the viticulture, we must guess about the wines first, and their market.

The wines of 2053 Sauvignon Blanc is still the flagship of New Zealand. After all, other wine regions of the world have taken over 200 years to achieve permanent “classical” status, so why might not New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc still be establishing a niche? Especially since the wines have continued to be distinctive, and even improve? There have been other casualties along the way. Traditional Hawke’s Bay vineyards have lost their reputation for Bordeaux blends, and now boast more Rhone styles. Pinot Noir has continued its expansion of the first

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decade of 2000, and is now well established as another “classical” wine from New Zealand. Though the low lands of Central Otago are now considered too hot for premium Pinot Noir, and new regions are being evaluated. There are two wine styles continuing to emerge. The first is sparkling wines, prompted by an awareness in the 2020’s decade that New Zealand must develop a proper sparkling wine sector if it is to claim status as the world’s leading innovative cool climate producer. New vineyard regions for sparkling wines have been established at the tip of the South Island, and some at even higher elevations in both islands than ever thought possible. This product style represents now half the New Zealand exports. New Zealand was quick to maybe lead a world trend to Albariño, now the number one white varietal wine which became prominent in the 2030s. Albariño from Spain has easily overtaken Chardonnay from France over the last 30 years. Albariño was found to tick all of the boxes to emerge as the number one white variety in the world; the name was easy

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

Dr Richard Smart

to pronounce, the wines were excellent, even grown in warmer climates than New Zealand, but some wine critics claim that the Albariño wines from New Zealand are among the best in the world.

The vines of 2053 We can consider the vineyards of 2053 under categories of where they are grown (place), how the vines themselves have changed (plant) and how they are grown (procedure).

The place By the 2030s, few consumers in the world noticed that the conspicuous labelling “New Zealand Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc” had gradually changed to “New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc”. Vineyards no longer dominated the Marlborough landscape as they did in the 2010s; now they were less concentrated in one region, and extended to the south coast of the South Island. Stewart Island is establishing its own reputation for Sauvignon Blanc. And this is due to temperature increase of only 1°C, what of the future? At least New Zealand has not chosen to deny that wine style and quality has changed along with climate, as have most of the European wine regions. Adaptation has been the message of the 2030’s.

The plant What a revelation in the 2010’s when scientists pointed out the benefits to vineyard productivity and wine quality to be had from improving variety germplasm. No longer would the New Zealand wine sector be constrained by the genetics of importations made in the 1980s and 1990s, from the rest of the world. Now, with its own patented procedure for creating clones, and even rapid early testing, other countries were wanting to obtain clones from New Zealand! Imagine New Zealand with the world best collection of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir clones! And, these could be selected for new vineyard regions as the vineyards migrated further south.

The major disease scares of the period were in the two decades commencing 2015, being spreading leaf roll disease in hardto-spot-symptomatic white varieties, and trunk disease. Both were treatable by replanting, but sadly it took over a decade for nurserymen to modify their practices to provide trunk disease free plants. And, coincidentally, local research was thrust into international fame as New Zealand was the first country to solve this world-wide problem.

The procedure There have been surprisingly few changes to viticultural methods during this century. Sure, the sprayer technology is improved, with less pesticides impacting the environment as was the case previously, and tractors are more comfortable, but many things are the same. Of course, there was the big revolution of the 2020s brought on by social unrest in Marlborough. A leading company dictated to its vineyard managers that if any more jobs were to be lost in the interest of “cutting costs”, it was to be their own! So the emphasis was to be on increasing labour efficiency, not labour replacement, at least for essential jobs like winter pruning. Imagine more rather than less hand pruning, when it was realised that well trained pruners could increase profitability through better yield and wine quality. One kiwi viticulturist gained prominence last year (2052) by stating that “Thank goodness we did not follow the path of the Aussies. They cut the costs of

Albariño – the wine of choice in the next 30 years?

vineyard production so much that they have no vineyards left, and no wine industry”. There have been few changes that affect the appearance of vineyards. Posts of wood or steel still support wires and vines. Of course, another minirevolution of the 2010’s led to the now universal adoption of oldfashioned “canopy management”. Those companies and growers that refused to take advantage of increased profitability from divided canopies, both in terms of improved yield and quality, failed to survive the second and third global financial crises which devastated all forms of inefficient agriculture in New Zealand. There is reported to be only one “organic” grower left in the country. The famous court battles of the 2030’s led to questioning whether such procedures were

indeed more beneficial to the environment, and the nutrientstressed organic vineyards were recognised to reduce wine quality, and disease levels were a problem for neighbouring vineyards.

The future It is fitting to conclude this article with a consideration of the next 40 years, to 2093. By now warming over 2010 levels has increased from the 1°C of 2050 to 2.5 °C. Scientists have been desperately trying to manipulate Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir vines to be more heat tolerant, but not to change them so much that they lose their wine identity, and names. The last straw, according to some scientists, was when Winegrowers New Zealand pulled the funding from their research to spend on marketing…. ■

Seifried, Nelson. Courtesy NZW.

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013 // 11

MARKETS OF THE FUTURE P E T E R M c ATA M N E Y WINE BUSINESS SOLUTIONS

f clients look to put together business plans that extend past 3 years, I usually suggest that they not waste their time. Years 4 and 5 onwards typically descend into extrapolation and pure guess work as the mountain of things that can alter anticipated outcomes renders insight and expectation useless. In the wine industry, however, a 40 year planning horizon is entirely reasonable as it can take that long for an idea to turn into perfectly aged wine from a vineyard producing optimally. Given those two seemingly incongruous statements, what can we rely upon to underpin change regardless of the global economy, wine fashions, weather patterns etc.? The biggest constant I have witnessed in the last 30 years and one I expect to continue for at least the next 40, is the evolution towards a more sophisticated wine, food and travel experience. The winners will be those that know how to enhance people’s enjoyment thereof. So how is this playing out now? What key changes are this broader momentum precipitating? How should winemaking evolve to better take advantage? Change One – People Power and the Globalisation of Tastes Wine Business Solutions publishes the only generally available research into what is on wine lists in Australia, the UK and Canada. When we look at this data (and we see the same thing on the off-

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premise) there is remarkable similarity between the three countries when we look at those styles that are growing fastest in terms of their listings On-Premise. White aromatic fruity wines, Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc in particular, are still growing in all markets. These and more neutral styles, like Pinot Grigio and Chenin Blanc, clearly please the palates of Aspirational drinkers. For more sophisticated drinkers, textural white wines like those achieved through quality wine blends are rapidly growing in popularity. Better versions of Chardonnay are also enjoying good support. What is clearly not working is hard tasting / hard to understand wine ideas like warm climate Riesling, Semillon, Verdelho etc. Similarly, juicy red styles like Barbera, Montepulciano along with Ripasso styles like Valpolicella as well as some Malbec are winning the hearts of Aspirational customers whilst savory reds like Sangoivese, Nebbiolo, Tempranillo and Rhone style reds are the fastest growing styles where Wine Appreciators are concerned. Meanwhile Cabernet, Merlot and blends thereof struggle. What does this tell us? Tastes are globalising. Wine critics have less influence. Where once a few very powerful people would tell us that we must drink Cabernet and Riesling, people are now voting with their glasses. New media allowing instant opinion sharing is having an impact.

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

Peter McAtamney

Aspirational consumers want to taste fruit. Wine Appreciators want to taste layered complexity and to get a sense of where wine comes from. Fashion plays a part but an evolution towards more sophisticated / eclectic tastes is the longer term underlying reality. Change Two - The Arrival of Food When over half a million viewers tune into New Zealand Masterchef each week, you know that there is a fundamental cultural shift taking place. People’s preparedness to learn about wine / food and the rate at which this is accelerating means that the winners in wine will be those that can move fastest to embrace this change. Those that start with the end in mind (i.e. the moment when your wine and your restaurant

customer’s food collide on consumer’s pallet) will succeed. Change Three – Experiences driving Customer Acquisition Relationships were always best managed directly. Brands are often best built concentrically. Direct experience of your brand as part of integrated wine, food and travel entertainment is the best means through which to secure engaged customers. In practical terms however, where once New Zealand producers could wait for customers to come to them, in the future, winemakers will need to work direct to customer in markets like the US in order to compete with local wineries. First though, direct to customer strategy needs to be honed domestically and most have yet to fully realise the potential. Our direct to customer

benchmarking in Australia, New Zealand and South Africa shows us that small to medium wineries now derive 18% of revenue from direct to customer business on average. Very few New Zealand wineries are at that level yet. Change Four - The split between the “Artisanal” and the “Industrial” There is nothing more boring, I feel, than hearing that “wineries equivalent to 80% of New Zealand production are owned by foreign companies” or whatever. There are few things less believable, having worked both sides, than that all family companies are “good” and corporates, “bad”. There have always been these sort of divisive arguments used when all the consumer cares about is that the wine is good, that it was made with respect for the environment and has complete integrity. The argument that the hero

/ farmer / artisan is a more likely producer of quality wine than a factory, however, is gaining some real traction. I predict that this will be critical going forward. Those who were at the fringe where organics and biodynamics were concerned are now front and centre.

What does this mean for New Zealand winemaking ? The simple clean flavours of cool climate New Zealand fruit are what have won the hearts and minds of wine drinkers across the globe. This is precisely what the next wave of fashionistas will use to crush the New Zealand industry with, if it does not adapt and evolve. The question, therefore, is What wines do New Zealand need to make that will work better with sophisticated cuisine ? For Sauvignon Blanc, it means

finding sights that will deliver more defined minerality and less explosively fruity wines that still deliver awesome flavour. For Pinot Noir, this means better clonal / site selection along with yield management so as to produce wines that are more savoury and complex thus avoiding the ‘high alcohol fruit bomb’ tag that Australian critics in particular are so keen to throw at Central Otago Pinot. For Chardonnay it means let’s start taking this seriously and let’s show the world that world class wines can be produced from this varietal in New Zealand. Chardonnay, I expect, to be New Zealand’s most important varietal in 40 years’ time. Steve Smith and others in Hawke’s Bay have always had the 40 year vision for making world class red wine. Developing agreement as to focus styles is critical. Getting the message out and get-

ting better distribution remains a challenge for most. Serious Rose and aromatic whites such as Gruner Veltliner / Albarino all hold promise. Textural blended white wine and Spanish / Italian red varietals along with innovative winemaking techniques may be useful in the context of making more interesting and complex wines that work with ever more sophisticated food. Above all it means getting back to farming, working the vineyard and making it the centerpiece. That’s where it all starts. In 40 years’ time, I expect that the combination of enhanced communication and cheaper travel leading to better connectedness of the winemaking community to the world along with New Zealand’s geographic isolation and uniqueness will mean that New Zealand is producing some of the best wine and food in the world, in the best environment. ■

Chardonnay “Let’s take this seriously.”

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013 // 13

LEGAL ISSUES FACING THE WINE INDUSTRY M A R I J A B A T I S I C H – S E N I O R A S S O C I A T E B E L L G U L LY

s we look to the future, there are a number of environmental issues becoming increasingly apparent in New Zealand and overseas. The first is a focus on the sustainable use of natural resources, in particular, water. The second is a health based approach to responding to elements of society that may be abused, such as alcohol. The third is the pressure for urban growth, namely issues with expanding residential boundaries.

Water Issues Australia is often referred to as the “lucky country” due to the many natural resources which naturally occur there, particularly minerals. While at this stage New Zealand does not appear to have those mineral deposits, it does have a much more temperate (and damp) climate, creating a greater incidence of that other essential resource, water. The Land and Water Forum was established (with representatives from New Zealand Winegrowers) to consider the best methods for the use and the management of water in New Zealand. The Forum is the first collaborative environment where non-governmental organisations, industry and the Governments have worked together to consider ways to preserve an essential resource, in this case water. The final recommendations of the forum are yet to be released. However, all operative play-

14 //

ers in that discussion will say that there is some way to go given that only Auckland ratepayers are used to paying the price for water usage at a residential level, whereas in the rest of the country water charges have not yet materialised. This may well be the reason why in the 2012 year water shortages were evident earlier on in other parts of the country. In Auckland, water pricing had already ensured an element of rational use to the supplier. As we look to the way in which we sustain our future in terms of production and as a population, we need to consider the extent to which we manage, conserve and protect that which we already have. Implementing a pricing mechanism allows the market to control this.

Health Related Issues In the last 20 years there has been a sea change towards habitual and recreational matters, which potentially adversely affects public health and the health spending of governments. The first matter to come to mind is smoking. This focus has now moved onto other areas such as high salt and sugar foods from an obesity point of view and to alcohol controls. The increasing control on the supply and availability of alcohol are demonstrated in the latest Sale and Supply of Liquor Act 2012. There is a much more strict approach to the liberal provisions which existed previously. This is particularly evident in relation

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

to the limits on the promotion of alcohol, the extent to which this is discounted and the supervision of minors on licensed premises. The prevalence of RTDs and incidence of binge drinking amongst youth led to a step-change approach. In the future it is likely that more controls will be placed on the consumption of alcohol, the purchase of alcohol and the extent to which it is able to be supplied.

What to do at the Rural/ Urban Boundary Issues of reverse sensitivity are by no means new to the wine industry. They have arisen for a number of years and the importance of the industry was heralded in the now (famous) case of Fraser Shingle Ltd v Hastings District Council. Issues in winegrowing areas around the country have continued to arise where the pressure for residential land and countryside living has encouraged the subdivision of areas that support less profitable agriculture activities. This has led to an increase of city dwellers on countryside allotments. Winegrowers will be familiar with issues relating to noise from bird bangers and now more commonly frost fans, as well as issues of tractor noise during harvest and other related matters. The importance of the agriculture economy to New Zealand has often been heralded at these times of global economic recession. However it is still difficult to conceive a consistent approach in maintaining and

Marija Batisich

protecting the value of productive land. In many regions the attraction of countryside living adjacent to peaceful vineyard environments does not reflect the reality of a working rural productive environment. The housing affordability encouraged the investigation into development of further Greenfield land for residential subdivision, but fails to acknowledge the price this may pay to the productive rural economy. It is not a question of seeking to protect all rural land without cost; it is important that the practice of ensuring that high grade soils are present in an area that is sufficient to farm is maintained. Where such land is fragmented, aggregation in the future is likely. This is an area in which the industry needs to ensure that it has a voice. On a personal level, those farmers seeking to extract some further value out of land by providing for subdivision must ensure

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the necessary no complaints covenants are placed on the titles, notifying potential purchasers that they will be purchasing in a working productive environment. In addition, both the industry and its related horticultural

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and agricultural partners should work with councils to maintain the integrity of the productive environment in the face of increasing pressure for subdivision. This may be done by ensuring that subdivision

is controlled and occupies areas where the parcel size is not economic for agricultural purposes or where there is low quality soil. There are many issues in the environment on the horizon for

the industry from an environmental perspective but the key ones can be easily summarised as water, health, and maintaining and providing rural land. These key elements are necessary in order to truly turn water into wine. ■

Jim Tannock

DO YOU HAVE LIFE INSURANCE FOR YOUR VINES? D R D AV I D J O R D A N - V I N E T O W I N E T O M A R K E T LT D

hile we were young and fit (often without dependents) the concept of life insurance was foreign and had little value or meaning. As responsibilities increase (along with increasing age) – husband/wife, children, mortgage, business and property ownership – we all have to contemplate and prepare for the impact of our death. Not if but when. In

16 //

a similar way to a carefree teenager our grapegrowers rarely, and perhaps never, contemplate that their vines may die. I am sure that many believe, based on the common belief that there are many commercially successful vineyards around the world with 100 year or older vines, that their vines will outlive them so it is not a problem. The sad news is that vines do die and I predict for many Sauvignon

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

Blanc vineyards the commercial impact of this will occur once the vines are about 20 years old. This early death and demise of Sauvignon Blanc vines I believe to be the number one long-term threat facing our grape producers. The impact of trunk diseases is the reason why these vines will die and we already have this experience in some of the older vineyards and particularly those in Hawkes Bay.

There are a number of trunk diseases that can infect vines and can kill or reduce the viability of vines. In the list of diseases are those with the common names of Black Foot and Black Goo. Of these two, Black Foot has had the most dramatic impact but this is largely in the early years of a vineyard after planting. Another disease that we are becoming more aware of is Botryosphaeria

that progressively causes dieback and reduced performance of the infected vines. Eutypa is the disease that is most likely to cause premature death in vines. This fungal disease can be present with other wood fungi to form a complex and is typically associated with vines after they are about 15 years old. An infected vine progressively dies with reduced shoot growth and distorted leaf shape among the early symptoms. The disease will progressively spread through the vineyard and increase to a level where the vineyard becomes uneconomic to maintain. The pattern of infection throughout a vineyard is unlikely to be regular and this compounds the commercial impact of the disease. Unfortunately for the New Zealand Wine Industry is the fact that Sauvignon Blanc is one of the most susceptible varieties to Eutypa. This variety appears to have little natural resistance to this disease. Also, with the high demands for skilled labour during pruning it means that pruning continues during wet periods when there is the highest risk of infection from Eutypa. Also, the primary entry point for the Eutypa fungus is large pruning cuts and these are difficult to avoid, especially following years of inferior pruning. NZ Winegrowers has funded numerous research projects on trunk diseases over more than 8 years and research projects are still ongoing to help provide effective control strategies for these important diseases. Marlene Jaspers at Lincoln and Dion Mundy at Marlborough Research Centre have led many of these research projects. Already we have learnt that pruning vines in the rain will increase the risk of the disease spreading. Any infected

Could trunk disease be the biggest issue facing growers in the near future? Dr David Jordan thinks so.

Black foot symptons show up when a trunk is disected.

vine material should be pruned out and burnt to limit the spore numbers. It is also important to protect the large pruning cuts with a commercial protectant or paint to prevent infections. One of the new research programmes led by Mark Sosnowski is looking at the effectiveness of the application of a fungicide as a spray on treatment. If successful this will transform the treatment of pruning cuts. There is no life insurance for vines but all grapegrowers should be aware and preparing for premature deaths of their vines. The

key to protecting the vines and increasing their commercial life is the following preventative and early response strategy: • Learn as much as you can about Eutypa – check the NZ Winegrowers website under Research first. • Follow the Eutypa research being funded by NZ Winegrowers and your levy funds. • Only prune in dry conditions. • Limit the number of large pruning cuts. • Protect all large (> 50c piece) pruning cuts. • Remove and burn all infected vine material.

• Re-work or replant infected vines as soon as symptoms occur. Good preventative action can dramatically extend the productive life of a vineyard. These measures are far cheaper than premature death of your vines. On a brighter note, we can look to research assisting our winegrowing industry over the next 20 to 30 years in areas like: • Remote sensing guiding early vine health detection, targeted nutrition and harvest coordination. • Disease control using non chemical methods. • Improved water use efficiencies. • Improved knowledge of maturity and wine quality manipulation. • New clones with improved agronomic properties. As an industry that is more progressive than most wine industries around the world, we need to continue to innovate, research and evaluate and maintain the attitude of early adoption. ■ dj@vinetowine.co.nz

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013 // 17

A YOUNG VIT LOOKS FORWARD Former New Zealand Young Viticulturist of the Year Caine Thompson looks at some of the issues he feels may face the New Zealand wine industry of the future. Will We Still Be Reliant on Sauvignon Blanc? auvignon Blanc is such a distinctive variety and it caught the attention of the world establishing the base of the New Zealand wine industry. It achieved critical mass quickly and has been well produced, marketed and positioned in world markets as a premium prod-

18 //

uct. Currently Sauvignon Blanc is our flagship variety, without question. As long as there is consistent demand by consumers, then New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc will remain this country’s number one exported wine. However when you see the quality and diversity of wines produced from Hawke’s Bay, Martinborough, Waipara and Central Otago, I believe that in

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

the future New Zealand will have many flagship varieties based on the diversity of the regions. This positioning can be seen in the old world wine regions such as France, a country with various flagship varieties based on region and key varieties that perform constantly at a premium level. For the New Zealand wine industry to achieve this we need a consistent

Caine Thompson

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simple story from each key region. Hawke’s Bay - Syrah and Merlot/ Cabernet blends, Martinborough Pinot Noir, Waipara Riesling and Central Otago Pinot Noir. Our diversity needs to be celebrated and recognised with a consistent message from the regions promoting their variety and style

prepared for? Without question. Pierces disease could be devastating if the disease and vector make it to New Zealand. The glassy-winged sharp shooter has been found in the South Pacific so a vigilant approach to border management will be essential for protecting

The impact of Pierces disease in vines in California.

to determine its premium positioning and each region’s value proposition. Other varieties will flow on but a key strength and leadership position is required to deliver a unique product with a simple, clear message so that New Zealand wine is known and renowned for the greatness that exists throughout the various. Are there pests and disease threats that need to be

our vine inventory for the future. Vine mealy bug is also a potential threat, a prolific multiplier with up to 6 generations produced per season. This pest is spreading leaf roll virus type three at rampant speed in various wine producing regions of the world. Hopefully this mealy bug species does not enter New Zealand. A strong research and development presence is essential for protecting, maintaining and enhancing our vineyards for the long term productivity and

sustainability of our wine industry.

Will climate change the face of the industry? Climate change will provide conditions for new pests and diseases and will challenge the way in which we manage current problems such as botrytis, powdery mildew, downy mildew and mealy bug. The key will be to keep science evolving and developing to combat these changing conditions. With resilient growers and a strong science research focus with NZW, the industry is in a good space to stay ahead of such challenges. The strategy required to deal with these issues will be to develop practical based research programmes that offer growers direct techniques, products and management tools on how to manage such issues when they arise. It is essential that NZW continues to work closely with growers to find new ways and techniques of managing pests and diseases using innovative and sustainable techniques. With Marlborough nearly all planted, what other areas are likely to come to the fore? I think in time we will see a gradual move to planting slopes and hillsides on a more commercial scale than we currently do. At the moment we are very focused on developing

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NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

vineyards on flat to undulating land, based on the equipment we currently have available. There are numerous well documented benefits of growing wine grapes on hillsides, such as frost protection, moderated temperatures and improved wine quality. Right across all the wine growing regions, there are a number of such sites available. The key for these developments will be determining how to mechanise production operations to ensure efficiencies can be obtained. New clones and rootstock - do we need to be preparing for the future by looking outside the current dependency on a limited range? There is huge opportunity in this space for New Zealand to produce its own clones and rootstocks specifically for New Zealand conditions, based on natural plant breeding techniques. A large scale programme such as this will provide long term benefits while developing and protecting the vine inventory base. This would continue to differentiate and position New Zealand as a distinctive premium producer of a number of varieties, via tailored clones. Key areas of focus would be bunch architecture, flavour intensity and skin thickness to produce higher quality wines with less susceptibility to disease. ■

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VINTAGE 2013

STOCKS REPLENISHED TESSA NICHOLSON

espite anecdotal talk that vintage 2013 was likely to be around or even below average, the figures show a decent increase in yields. Which means the huge strides made between 2009 and 2012 of increasing markets, will now have the supply needed to meet demand. After a much lower than average 2012 vintage, this year every region in New Zealand, (with the exception of Auckland) saw major increases in yields. The vintage of 345,000 tonnes, was up 28% on 2012. Once again Marlborough was by far the largest producing region, with a total of 251,680 tonnes, followed by Hawke’s Bay with 38,829 and then Gisborne with 15,567. Central Otago was the fourth largest producer with 8,407 tonnes, up 4% on last year despite the recent season being one of severe frosts. It is the largest vintage in New Zealand’s wine history –

but before you begin to lament the potential of a return to over supply – consider how much our markets have grown in recent years and how low stocks were prior to vintage beginning. NZWinegrowers CEO Philip Gregan pointed out that if the industry had produced anything close to the 269,000 tonnes of 2012, there would have been significant ramifications. “The result would have been incredibly strong upward pressure on grape prices in the year ahead, and wineries would lose shelf space and wouldn’t be able to meet demand. On the other hand if we got more than 360,000 tonnes we were going to see the opposite. We would have had over supply, we would have seen downward pressure on wine prices, there would be a lot of freely available bulk and we would see contracts being cancelled. All those sorts of things that happened post 2008.” While 345,000 tonnes is the largest vintage, it is only 5% more

VINTAGE REGIONS

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NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

than vintage 2011. “We know that going into vintage 2012 the industry was starting to be short of stock. In 2008 when we harvested 285,000 tonnes, our exports were only 80 million litres per year. Now they are 170 million litres and with domestic sales of 50 million litres, we are talking total sales of 220 million litres.” This year’s vintage will provide approximately 240 to 245 million litres. “So we are only talking about production this year being an increase of about 10% of sales in the past year.” Which given winery stocks were at an all time low for the industry and that export sales were dropping off towards the end of 2012 because of those shortages – increasing sales by 10% should not be seen as a difficult task Gregan said. “One of the best indicators of the stock levels, is that in May this year, we saw 2.2 million litres of

vintage 2013 wine exported from the country. The highest level of export vintage wines in May before then, was only 500,000 litres. So we are talking more than four times the volume of current vintage wine going out in May than in any previous year. And it wasn’t all bulk wine, a lot of it was packaged product as well.” Looking at the export figures of 2012, there has been a significant decrease in the amount of bulk wine leaving New Zealand, 25% less than at its peak. Price per litre of bulk wine has increased from its low of around $2.20 in June 2010 to over $4 earlier this year. On top of that packaged exports have increased by 4 to 5% in the past 12 months – with the strongest area of growth being the US. “So we have seen a shift,” Gregan said. “Unpackaged exports peaked at about 35% of our total shipments a little over 12 months ago. It is down now to about 28%. That is a positive sign.” In terms of yields, the 2013 average was 9.7 tonnes per hectare, which is about .7 of a tonne above the long-term average. Looking forward, with no development undertaken in the past three years, the current 33,000 hectares will remain fairly static until at least 2016, when plantings planned for this year come on stream. “So for the next few years our production is very strongly yield dependent.” ■

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VINTAGE 2014

PREPARING FOR NEXT VINTAGE Research Damian Martin, Jeff Bennett and Mike Trought. Reporting Tessa Nicholson

ith 2013 being New Zealand’s largest vintage ever, there is a high likelihood of 2014 being much larger again. Due to the near perfect conditions at flowering in many of the country’s wine producing regions, bunch initiation that will affect the next vintage yields, is high. Dr Mike Trought from Blenheim Plant & Food says the end result is, as always, dependent on

conditions during flowering later this year. “I predict the warm December/ January (2012/13) will probably lead to higher bunch numbers per shoot than average. Inflorescence (bunch) initiation and flowering occur at approximately similar times of the year and are both affected by temperature at that time. However the consequences on flowering, occurs in the current season, the effect

through inflorescence initiation and bunch number occurs the following season. “Generally the more bunches you have per shoot, the bigger the inflorescences are. So I would predict that in December 2013 we will have more flowers per hectare than average. However, how well they come through to produce fruit will depend on what happens at flowering.” Given Sauvignon Blanc made

up 68% of this year’s total vintage any decreases or increases in this variety will heavily impact the vintage figures overall. At the recent NZW Grape Days, Dr Damian Martin said Marlborough’s Sauvignon Blanc bunch numbers in 2014 will far surpass this year. “We know what the temperatures were in December 12, so we can predict what we think the bunch number might be in 2014.

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NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

With the December temperature of 17.9 C (at the Marlborough Research Centre) we are predicting a bunch number of 68, + or – 6. The long-term average in regional trials in four cane Sauvignon Blanc was 64, but interestingly the 2013 number was 56. So next year would be quite a step up. “We can define this prediction by taking it to a single site, which typically has a high long-term bunch number. Instead of taking an average December temperature, we have taken the sum of the growing degree-days for an initiation period that starts about 10 days before mid-flowering finishes 20 days after mid flowering. Our prediction here is 71 bunches per vine, (+ or – 4) compared to a long-term average of 65 and the 2013 bunch number of 60. Next year we are essentially (looking at) 10% above the long-term average and 20% above 2013.”

While the 2013 Sauvignon Blanc bunch numbers appear to have been below the long-term average in Marlborough, the yields were the highest ever, at 210,000 tonnes. That’s 4000 more than the previous largest vintage back in 2011. Surprised is one way to describe how many in the region reacted to the figures. Add the potential major increases next vintage and Marlborough alone could be producing more in 2014, than the entire country did in 2013. Which means some judicious planning is necessary moving forward. Back in 2009 and 2010 many growers chose to drop the number of Sauvignon Blanc canes they laid down. Research showed that yields dropped by up to 56% in the first year, and evened out between 65 and 70% after three years, (when compared with Sauvignon Blanc vines that had been consist-

ently pruned to four canes). The result, along with winery enforced yield caps helped reduce yields, although the real clincher was the 2012 vintage where poor flowering conditions impacted on the vintage overall. That low yield saw most growers go back to four canes in 2012, which Trought says can have a dramatic effect. “Going back up to four canes, from two will see an increase in yield of 27% more than a vine that has been constantly pruned to four canes.” So could growers realistically manage yields by once again drop-

ping canes? “If you went from two or three canes in 2011 up to four in 2012 and are now looking at dropping back, my guesstimate and it is only a guesstimate, is the yields will move down proportionally,” Trought says. Laying down shorter canes may be one answer, another may be to leave four canes and if yield estimates come in too high, utilise machine thinning technology to reduce them. Heavy machine thinning can reduce yields by up to 38% while light thinning can reduce by 17%. Machine thinning

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removes berries from the bunch, rather than whole bunches from the vine. About 40 to 50% of the long term reduction in yield is what is knocked from the vine during thinning, the balance is a reduction in berry size and bunch/ berry shrivel in the canopy The trials undertaken in recent years have shown machine thinning doesn’t traumatise the remaining fruit, may help to reduce botrytis infections and has no discernible impact on the composition of the resulting wines. While no exact figure can be dialled up to be thinned, the results have been spectacular in terms of managing over cropping. Given the research presented at the Grape Days, this could be the most economical and timely solution if yields do blow out next year. ■ tessa.nicholson@me.com

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STRAIGHT UP – No bells or whistles -

Simply a call to those in the industry who want to assist in perfecting a more economic way to control botrytis Chris Henry says ‘If we all work hard and are focussed enough, the things we seek finally come to us. Chance or opportunity? – if no one is looking, it passes us by.’ In the 2010/11 season, I undertook a hand-sprayed study in Hawke’s Bay simply to assess the powdery mildew efficacy of adding potassium bicarbonate to Protectorhml. Protectorhml is a product most of you will aware of – although it is well researched for botrytis control, most of the use in grapes is as an adjuvant to improve the activity of sulphur on powdery mildew or erinose mite. Potassium bicarbonate is already used in the industry as a de-acidifier in the wineries and when ‘activated’, a powdery mildew eradicant. The study was on Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir from pre-flowering to harvest. 2010/11 was the first of two shocking years for bad weather close to harvest in Hawke’s Bay. Various treatments in this trial showed remarkable resistance to botrytis and sour rot infection with enhanced maturity. Serious effort was made to record all aspects of the trial, including wine studies. In the season 2011/12, the project was ramped up with 28 randomised grower machine sprayed studies and large hand sprayed studies in Hawke’s Bay and Marlborough. It was Tech NZ funded, and Plant and Food Research, David Manktelow and others were involved to bring through a tank mix of potassium bicarbonate and Protectorhml to the market. A BIG MISTAKE! – but lessons were learned. In this last season, there were 24 split block grower machine sprayed studies across the growing regions and a large hand spray study in Hawke’s Bay. We reverted to a pre-formulation of Protectorhml and potassium bicarbonate (HML32) and included a moderate rate of sulphur until veraison. In most trials we were not highly challenged by disease, but with a few exceptions the performance of HML32 was consistent with the grower’s chemical regime. Further refinements have been made and have been implemented through the label changes for the coming season.’ Use of HML32 has been divided into two parts: For botrytis control – spraying is to finish at veraison For enhanced maturity (whites only at this stage) - a maximum of two applications after veraison. There is some economic advantage to growers using HML32 for botrytis control. This season, we ask growers to try HML32 on part of their property in areas of low to moderate botrytis risk. Our website, www.henrymanufacturing.co.nz has trial reports, graphs, summaries and scientific information on HML32, for viewing and downloading. HML32 will be sold through distributors throughout the country – I seek contact with growers interested in trying the product so I can give the best technical advice to get the best out of it and limit any risk. Contact me through the website, or phone 027 2941490 or 06 8742921.” Regards, Chris Henry

VINEYARD NEWS

POWDERY MILDEW – EARLY INTERVENTION VITAL TESSA NICHOLSON

owdery mildew was described by grower Doug Bell at the recent NZW grape days, as “sinister.” “No one wants it in their vineyard, it is quite easily controlled and there is no excuse for having it,” Bell went on to say. “Yet this last year saw some profound powdery mildew in Gisborne, in a year we considered one of our best vintages.” It seems appropriate therefore to go to a world expert on this insidious disease to work out how best to deal with it. That expert is Peter Margarey an Australia Research Plant Pathologist who was a guest speaker at the 2011 NZW Grape Days. He describes powdery mildews as being unique in terms of vineyard diseases. “It doesn’t require moisture, it grows on the outside of the leaf surface and it is a green disease, requiring green tissue to thrive on.” Consequently any sign of the disease on foliage or fruit that is removed from the vine, cannot survive – unlike a disease like botrytis, which can winter over in dead cell material. What’s more important, is the disease is driven by the amount of inoculum inherited from last season. Therefore if you can manage the inoculum this season, you are part way there to preventing an outbreak next year.

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“Early season control is critical. To win the battle, we need to control next season, this season.” While it doesn’t require moisture to develop, powdery mildew loves mild temperatures of around 20 to 28°C, with lots of cloud. Its one great hate is ultra violet light. It can be difficult to determine powdery mildew at first glance, Magarey said, given it is quite similar to many others found within vines. He suggested carrying an eyeglass when checking among the vines, and highlighted a phone ap, which can help the identification process for those out in the field. (the site is growcare.com.au.) If there was one point he was adamant in getting across, it was detecting the disease early on, at bud burst. Leave it any longer and it is harder to control. “You need to monitor the vineyard, get out there and look. Know your target, what you are looking for and look at as many leaves as you can. Do this early in the season so you can detect it early, and keep records so you have a history of where the previous infection areas have been.” The first signs of powdery mildew will show up in emerging shoots, as the inoculum is carried over within infected buds. (Not ON infected buds.) These shoots, known as flagshoots will show signs of stunting with leaves curled over. “If you find a flagshoot, you

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

can break it off and throw it on the ground, as the spores can’t survive on dead tissue. But tag the site so you can come back and check if any more flagshoots have appeared.” Left unmanaged, the spores from the flagshoot will spread incrementally into nearby green tissue, such as other shoots, leaves and berries, with the infection period being only about five to six days. “Young buds are most susceptible to infection two to three weeks after budburst.” While the fungal spores are spread by wind, they do not travel great distances with Magarey stating “your vineyard is not affected by your neighbour’s.” Opening the canopy to more ultra violet light, by pruning, leaf plucking and shoot thinning – are all useful for many other vineyard diseases, but he said they do not make a massive difference with powdery mildew. The most important thing to do is, reduce inoculum reservoirs. “If you have powdery mildew this year, most or all of the inoculum will have come from within a 200 – 300 metre zone of where the disease was not controlled last year.” Which brought Magarey to the all important issue of how do you control it? In Australia he said, it was common practice to focus spraying on either side of

The look of powdery mildew once it has hit the leaves.

flowering. “That’s alright, as it protects the fruit this season, but it doesn’t do much for next year. The result is you need to do it all over again next year and the year after.” Given the infection starts with the buds turning into a flagshoot, which then spreads to the leaves, and in turn to the green berries – the best way to prevent severity later in the season, is to kill the inoculum at or near budburst. “This will prevent or reduce the leaf inoculum and the fruit infection in this year coming.” It also means sprays are more effective, because at the time of control, the inoculum loads are at their lowest level. Magarey then went on to describe how to take control during the lag phase. “Mathematically the lag phase is when you get something that is building up slowly and slowly and then gradually it builds up until you get enough of something to really take off. Powdery mildew is a hard disease to catch if it is run-

ning away from you, so we want to stop it in the lag phase.” There is no such thing as an “outbreak” of powdery mildew he said. Instead it is just a case of the inoculum being there and growing incrementally, until the disease is full blown. Roughly 40 days from bud burst, (give or take depending on your own individual conditions) the disease incidence increases. In Australian conditions Magarey said, 80 days after bud burst severity increases and then fruit infection begins. “The notion is, if we spray the disease early in the lag phase, just after the spores have started growing in the vineyard, you can stop leaf and fruit infection this year and do very significant things in controlling the disease long term.” In summary – the disease begins inside an infected bud, carried over from last season. If

left it will develop into a leafshoot with spores that can be spread by wind. Those spores will continue to multiply slowly but surely in the right weather conditions of warm temperatures and cloudy skies. The spores will transfer to other shoots, onto leaves and into fruit – reaching severe proportions. At the end of the season, the disease if not controlled will remain on any green tissue, which is the buds on the old canes not removed. This inoculum will winter over, waiting for more green tissue to develop next season. However if you take control immediately after budburst, you can prevent any of that continual cycle occurring. Magarey said controlling that cycle is as easy as spraying thoroughly a couple of times early season, three times with two week intervals – basically at week two, four and six after budburst. ■

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NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013 // 29

VINEYARD NEWS

AFTER THE FROST Research by Mike Trought and Damian Martin - Blenheim Plant & Food. Reported by Tessa Nicholson

here is hardly a region in New Zealand that hasn’t been affected at some stage by a spring frost. The impact on the following vintage can be devastating, depending on the severity and the timing as was pointed out at the recent NZWinegrowers Grape Days. Dr Damian Martin said there are a few options available for growers once a frost has occurred, but those options depend on a variety of issues. “Firstly the severity, then the growth stage of the vine. What region you are in and the length of the growing season that is left to you after the frost has occurred. Your pruning system and your grape variety makes a difference. And even the targeted wine style you are looking at. In some cases that target may change after a frost. An obvious one would be to move from a table wine to a sparkling base.” As the vine moves through its growth phases, it is less capable

of dealing with a low critical temperature. Martin said this is the lowest temperature a plant tissue, such as a bud, can sustain for 30 minutes without suffering injury. “So we are talking about the temperature of the plant tissue,

rather than the temperature of the atmosphere.” When the vine is dormant, the buds can sustain temperatures that drop to minus 15. “But that critical temperature quickly increases up to minus 3 at

budburst and then young tissues, particularly leaves and inflorescences, are extremely susceptible,” he said. “So it doesn’t take much below zero to start to cause damage.” For simplicity we can consider

Moderate frost damage, where the apex of the shoot has probably been burnt, some leaves are burnt and there is also some burning of the inflorescences. PHOTO :MIKE TROUGHT

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there are three stages of frost in terms of timing – early, mid and late spring. Early is deemed to occur between budburst and until around four leaves have separated. Mid season is when the vine has 10 leaves separated and the inflorescences start to become clear. While the late spring frost is anything from where the inflorescences are clearly visible and getting towards flowering. Determining the severity of the frost requires not only field assessments but also a study of local met data. Martin said by accumulating the degrees below zero, you can determine whether severity is high, medium or low. “For example if during a three hour frost, the temperature after the first hour is minus one, at the end of the second hour it’s minus 2 and at the end of the third hour it’s minus two, we could do an accumulated frost severity of minus five degrees.” Once the severity has been determined and you know the timing there are a few guiding principles.

Early Season Frost In this scenario, many of the primary buds and shoots will be intact. Because it is early in the spring the vine still has abundant reserves and it’s not usually necessary to promote shoot growth, or anything special to favour cane development, Martin said. “The fruit that forms on the regrowth on the secondary and tertiary bud, becomes very similar notionally to a second set and can be managed in a similar way.” However in the case of a severe early season frost, he said it becomes a case of self-selecting. “Pretty much all the primary buds have been destroyed and any crop you get will only come from un-burst primary buds or secondary and tertiary bus. The fertility of these is actually pretty low. A good

rule of thumb is; only one small bunch for every two shoots. So it’s not very much.” The spring development of the new shoots will be delayed three to four weeks. “But there is still plenty of time for the replacement shoots to harden off and you will get some good quality replacement canes out of it. In this case the crop will be relatively uniform, so any kind on input is not necessary.”

Mid to Late Spring Frost What tends to happen here, is the well developed shoot only gets partially damaged. But the downside of this Martin said, is that it stimulates lateral growth and any regrowth will be quite late – sometimes between four and eight weeks behind the prefrost growth. “So the priority here is, how do we ensure we have good replacement wood for the next year? One thing you may not know is that laterals don’t harden off particularly well in the autumn, so it’s never a good idea to prune back to a lateral shoot as your replacement cane. They don’t have the reserves and they do not harden off as well as a primary shoot.” Therefore the focus needs to be on replacement wood, meaning some form of quick pruning intervention is required. “The current season’s crop is still there and may achieve some revenue, but it becomes a secondary priority.”

Severe Late Season Frost The major difference between a mid and late season frost, is that the reserves of the vine are greatly depleted, Martin said, by the time the frost has occurred. “So it has used up all its reserves feeding that spring growth leading into flowering when the frost hits. So here you need to forget about any crop in

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In a severe frost this is the likely outcome – everything is pretty well burnt. PHOTO: MIKE TROUGHT

the current season and do everything you can to make sure you have replacement canes for the following year.”

Pruning After A Frost The chart below shows what forms of intervention in terms of pruning are required following a frost. In terms of an early spring frost, regardless of severity, no pruning is required. Light damage

in mid and late spring also requires no pruning intervention. But from mid season and with moderate damage upwards, there are two or three options, Martin said. “Two involve pruning shoots and one involves pruning canes, which is the most severe case of a severe frost in late spring.” In terms of option two – you need to look to prune green shoots, with the recommenda-

tion being to prune back to “about 5 millimetres above the crown.” It is not a wise decision to break shoots off, particularly in mid to late season, as that will damage secondary and tertiary buds that are required to grow into replacement canes. “In the case of mid season moderate and late season moderate frosts, we can prune the damaged shoots just around the head, so we can make sure we get some

Early Spring

Mid Spring

Late Spring

Light damage

1 - No pruning

Moderate damage

1 - No pruning

2A - Prune shoots

Severe damage

1 - No pruning

2B - Prune shoots

3 - Prune canes

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replacement wood. Forget about the shoots further along the cane, they will do their own thing and have lots of laterals on them.” In a mid season severe frost the option is to prune all the damaged shoots to promote secondary buds. You will probably get more crop in this situation, but clearly it is a lot more work.” However when it comes to a late season, severe frost, the only option is to prune the canes either mid way along, or right back close to the head,” he said. “What you want to do here is to remove the bud load on the vine and do everything you can to develop the shoot at the base of the cane and close to the head.” As mentioned earlier, in this scenario you are forgetting about getting any current crop. But this doesn’t mean you can forget about vineyard health. Martin said fertiliser applications, especially nitrogen, are important to help re-establish the vines reserves, and you will need to keep up the irrigation. “Remember the later the frost occurs, the more depleted the vines reserves are, so you have to do everything you can to promote cane growth.” Plus he said it is vital to keep on top of disease control, especially powdery mildew, despite the fact there is unlikely to be any crop. ■ tessa.nicholson@me.com

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TYPES OF FROST Radiation Frost This type of frost occurs when there are clear skies and still conditions. Heat is lost from the ground into the atmosphere through infra-red radiation. The air then cools from the ground up and a layering of air temperature occurs. A warm layer of air called an inversion layer, forms above the colder air. This usually lies between 5 and 40 metres in altitude, and can be utilised via helicopters and wind machines. While the air temperature at the fruiting wire height is often 2 - 3° above the ground minimum, you need to remember that as the bud tissues lose heat, they may be cooler than the surrounding air. Advective Frost Caused by very cold air from polar latitudes flowing into the affected

regions. These are generally very large air masses, Dr Damian Martin said, anything from hundreds to thousands of kilometres in size. The air mass is well mixed and temperatures are more uniformly cold from the ground upwards – meaning helicopters and wind machines are not effective. Even during clear nights, air masses can move with considerable velocity/drift – affecting large tracts of land. Katabatic Frost This can occur in both radiative and advective conditions. Denser cold air from high altitudes flows down mountains or hillsides, onto the flatter land. The depth of these flows can range from several to several tens of metres in total. Due to the nature of the cold air flowing

downwards, a katabatic frost contributes to a localised lowering of air temperatures close to the ground. These frosts occur usually in lower lying or sheltered zones, where the airflow slows down. New Zealand Perspective Dr Martin said frosts in New Zealand regions always have a radiative component, meaning clear skies are required for a frost to occur. In this part of the world, frosts usually are a combination of radiative, advective and katabatic. “Damaging frosts have important advective and/or katabatic components. The temperatures fall below zero earlier in the night, therefore the frosts are of a longer duration. Plus in these situations drift results in inversion layers at high altitudes.”

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013 // 33

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REGIONS MARLBOROUGH

MARLBOROUGH’S BEGINNING TESSA NICHOLSON

ow appropriate that August’s Romeo Bragato conference is focusing on where we have come from, what we have learned and where we are heading. Because 40 years ago on August 24 1973, Sir David Beattie, a former Chairman of Montana Wines planted the very first vine on what was known as Wairau Valley Estates. So began Montana’s foray into the region that would later become recognised as a world leader in Sauvignon Blanc.

The then chairman of Montana, R.K. Davison QC wrote at the time, that Montana was proud to have its name linked with the challenging development, “which will mean so much to the province of Marlborough and to the wine industry of New Zealand. “We regard the opening of these vineyards as being of historic significance. We pledge to ensure that the wines which will flow from the Wairau Valley Estates will create world-wide interest in Marlborough and the whole of the New Zealand winemaking industry.”

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Prophetic words – that have certainly come to fruition. But not before the whole plan nearly fell over. The summer of 1973/74 was one of the driest in 50 years. The soil at Wairau Estates (now Brancott Vineyard) was stony, and parched. Of the 750,000 cuttings planted that first year, 70% died. That’s not to say Montana didn’t try to save the vines. Members of the public were cajoled into creating paper cones to place over the cuttings, which would protect them from the soaring heat. A novel water

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growers or planting vines themselves in Marlborough. Now the industry is responsible for thousands of jobs, spread right across region, from the Wairau, to Waihopai, and further south to the Awatere. The name Marlborough is synonymous with Sauvignon Blanc internationally, and is considered the benchmark for every other region producing this variety. To think this has all been achieved in just 40 years is nothing short of remarkable. As MW Tim Atkin said in November last year; “In 39 years, Marlborough has achieved more than most wine regions do in a hundred.” So congratulations to Brancott Estate who on August 24 this year will be sure to raise a glass to what was set in motion, 40 years ago, as should the rest of the New Zealand wine industry. ■ tessa.nicholson@me.com

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The famous white cones placed over the vines to protect them against the heat. They didn’t work too well, being blown for kilometres when the first strong winds hit the region.

tank was quickly erected allowing water to be hand pumped onto the vines, through the cones. Unfortunately no one took into account the impact the strong north westerly winds would have on the lightweight cones. Stories abound of mounds of white paper protectors being scattered for kilometres throughout the Brancott Valley. In the end, the only answer was to replant, this time with potted cuttings, which thankfully took. There was no Sauvignon Blanc at this stage, that variety didn’t come into the mix until 1975, with the first harvest being 1978. Instead those early vines were Cabernet Sauvignon and Riesling Sylvaner (Muller Thurgau). While initially there was great scepticism about the development, those behind it were to have the last laugh. Within a matter of just a few years, other wineries were following suit, contracting

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NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013 // 37

REGIONS HAWKE’S BAY

Brought to you by

YOUNG GUNS HAWKE’S BAY MARY SHANAHAN

While every wine region has its attractions, there is something special about Hawke’s Bay. It has longevity, history and some stunning weather and scenery. As New Zealand’s second largest wine region, with a varietal mix that provides something for all winemakers, it is understandable why so many young industry members flock there. This month we talk to four of the many Young Guns of Hawke’s Bay.

How long have you worked in Hawke’s Bay? I have been here for the most part, all my life. I have done a bit of work throughout Australia, but Hawke’s Bay born and bred. What brought you to Hawke’s Bay? Family brought me back, plus it’s home – it was always going to happen. Where have you travelled in wine to get here? Australia really, all over, but I’ve spent a lot of time focusing on Coonawarra, McLaren Vale and the beautiful Barossa Valley. I was working for some pretty big firms over there, and it opens your eyes to how you can consolidate and run your viticultural operations.

friends. The Bay is home... Plus the occasional bottle of Syrah. When you are not making wine or growing grapes?Pruning grape vines...... What spare time? I wouldn’t mind spending a bit more time at the race track, but we will see how that goes.... Or fishing. There we go, it’s a plan for this summer...maybe. It sucks when....? It’s wet.

Your favourite wine? Stonecroft Old Vine Gewurztraminer, I am sure I was brought up on this! (Kerryn is the son of Alan Limmer, the former owner and founder of Stonecroft Wines.)

starting to see amazing flavour development. We have a wide array of flavour profiles from our diversity of microclimates from The Bay’s different subregions.

Which wine region excites you most right now? Hawke’s Bay has so much to offer. With the way the Syrah is changing with a bit of vine age, we are really

Future aspirations? I am really keen to not only manage the vineyards and our growth at Moana Park, but also get into owning my own block. ■

What do you enjoy most about your job? It’s the environment really, the early morning, fresh, crisp Hawke’s Bay air. The weather here is conducive not only to growing good fruit but also to having a great lifestyle. Plus the challenge of viticulture means there is always a fresh reason to innovate. What do you enjoy most about Hawke’s Bay?Family and

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KERRYN LIMMER, AGE - 30, T I T L E - V I N E YA R D M A N A G E R F O R M OA N A PA R K

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

How long have you worked in Hawke’s Bay? I have been back in Hawke’s Bay now for three years but originally moved here in 1988. After finishing my schooling I had stints in Dunedin, Scotland, Wellington and Australia before returning to the Bay to study the Concurrent Bachelor of Wine Science and Viticulture at EIT. What brought you to Hawke’s Bay? I love the styles of wine we make and I also have an 8-year-old daughter here, so it was always a dream to work in Hawke’s Bay again. I also wanted to work organically and after a chance meeting with Brett Murdoch a year earlier I was offered the opportunity with William Murdoch in 2010. Where have you travelled in wine to get here? When I finished my studies at EIT, I took up the assistant winemaker position at Te Awa. I then started my

‘flying winemaker’ days in California and over the next three years worked three vintages in Australia, two in Marlborough, one in Spain and finished with a consultancy role in southern Bulgaria. I was also lucky enough to spend five weeks working at four different wineries in northern Italy after receiving the Romeo Bragato Scholarship while I was at EIT. What do you enjoy most about your job? I was always unsure if I wanted to pursue winemaking or viticulture as I really enjoy both aspects of the industry. I am lucky that in my position I can be spraying in the morning, racking in the afternoon and holding tastings in the evening. That’s definitely what I enjoy most, I never get bored. What do you enjoy most about Hawke’s Bay? The lifestyle. When you are not making wine

Get WIREd ~

or growing grapes? My fiancé and I are currently planning our wedding in February so that keeps us pretty busy. We also spend a lot of time hanging out with my daughter Carys, listening to music, fishing, playing the guitar and I am also trying to learn to surf at the moment although somewhat unsuccessfully. Which wine region excites you most right now? Hawke’s Bay!! After a few really tough years I think Hawke’s Bay is finally getting the recognition it deserves. With the massive demand for

high quality red wines in Asia, the region has come into its own. It’s awesome to see Hawke’s Bay wineries doing well and showing the world New Zealand is not just all about Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. Future aspirations? I love my job and have really enjoyed being involved with a new company and wine label. In the foreseeable future I am looking forward to growing the vineyard, the wines and the company into a successful and sustainable business. As for the long term, who knows? ■

H AY D E N P E N N Y, A G E - 3 2 . T I T L E - V I N E YA R D M A N A G E R AND WINEMAKER FOR WILLIAM MURDOCH WINES

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NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013 // 39

How long have you worked in Hawke’s Bay? This is my 13th year. What brought you to Hawke’s Bay? I was born right here in Napier. Where have you travelled in wine to get here? Initially, in an old blue Volkswagen through the wine regions of France and Italy with my wife Rebecca, prior to studying viticulture at EIT. Since then, back to the Rhone Valley to work and trips to South Australia and the USA. What do you enjoy most about your job? Harvest for me is the time when everything’s coming together and I get a huge kick out of all the work that goes into getting the grapes off at the best time. Man, they taste good when they are on the money! What do you enjoy most about Hawke’s Bay? The climate is

How long have you worked in Hawke’s Bay? During my studies I worked part time as a cellar door manager and as a wine broker. In December 2012 I commenced full-time work at Ashridge Wines. What brought you to Hawke’s Bay? Originally the study options offered at EIT brought me to Hawke’s Bay. Yet I was intrigued by the diversity of lifestyle and the wine industry Hawke’s Bay offers. Where have you travelled in wine to get here? It all started at 13 as a holiday job working in our neighbours’ vineyard with my siblings. My parents then planted a vineyard and we got to see how it developed and grew (we four kids were also cheap labour!). At 18 I went to England for a GAP year and travelled Europe. Once home I gained a job with a French family-owned winery in Marlborough where

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fantastic and we make the most of it. When you are not making wine or growing grapes? I have two young girls who keep us very busy but I still get out on the odd wave for a surf. It sucks when…? Merlot has to be picked at 19 Brix. Your favourite wine? Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay grown at the Keltern Vineyard. Which wine region excites you the most right now? Hawke’s Bay is humming at the moment with lots of great people growing and making great wines. I ain’t moving anywhere… Future aspirations? We are planting some great sites with new clones and in some cases new varieties, and I can’t wait to see what we can produce in the years to come. Watch this space! ■

OLLIE POWRIE, AGE 38. T I T L E - C O M P A N Y V I T I C U LT U R I S T FOR VILLA MARIA

the passion and art of viticulture and wine making really inspired me to seek further knowledge. I began a Diploma in Wine Marketing which led me onto the Bachelor of Wine Science at EIT.

now available in Hawke’s Bay, designing and making clothes.

What do you most enjoy about your job? I enjoy the range of this job. Being a family-owned business I help out in all aspects from winemaking, vineyard, cellar door and cafe to general work in the lodge onsite.

Your favourite wine? Hawke’s Bay Chardonnays are close to my heart and continue to excite me, I can’t wait to see how the 2013 wines look!

What do you enjoy most about Hawke’s Bay? Compared to the South Island it is so well connected! I love the climate and location. Hawke’s Bay itself offers so much in such a small area, from amazing beaches to vineyards to mountains. When you are not making wine or growing grapes? Tasting wines with friends! Walking and taking in the views of Hawke’s Bay from Te Mata Peak, taking advantage of all the cycleways

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

It sucks when...? It rains or the motorbike tyre is flat! Cutting my headphone cord when pruning!

have an amazing opportunity to be a part of the new winery being built this summer. I want to utilise the wine industry to live, work, and travel the world. Starting with a vintage in America for a couple of months this year will allow me to broaden and develop my winemaking knowledge. ■

Which wine region excites you most right now? Northern Rhone, I think Hawke’s Bay can learn a lot from this region in regards to Syrah. Future aspirations? I intend to continue to grow my career with Ashridge Winery for the coming years especially as I

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International

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NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013 // 41

NZW NEWS

AIMING FOR THE BEST LOW ALCOHOL WINE TESSA NICHOLSON

ecoming the world leader in premium lower alcohol wines is the aim of the most ambitious research project ever undertaken by NZWinegrowers. With the potential of $7 million of government funding over seven years, the national body is now looking for industry involvement. Last October NZW presented a proposal for funding from the Primary Growth Partnership, to the Ministry of Primary Industries. That proposal was accepted in April, and now NZW is developing a business plan and approaching industry members for expressions of interest. “The aim of the programme is to fund a suite of research projects that will make the New Zealand wine industry a world leader in the development of naturally produced lower calorie, lower alcohol

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wines,” Simon Hooker, General Manager of Science and Innovation said. “New Zealand Winegrowers is funding the upfront costs of putting the programme of work together.” It is the first time the industry body has gone out to its members seeking expressions of interest in terms of cash involvement. The goal is to raise another $7 million to match the government’s input, with only some of that coming directly from levies. “People who put in cash will become part of the steering committee,” he said. “NZWinegrowers won’t be the entity running it, as we can’t be involved in commercialising a product. So this committee will steer the programme and run it.” This project is not only breaking ground in terms of what it hopes to achieve. Hooker said it

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

is also a first for the wine industry, given all of the research will be controlled by the industry itself. “This is our programme, we will contract it out and we will control it – the whole thing.” For the companies who invest in the programme, there will be a number of benefits, including; Direct access to research staff, technical information and marketers and market information Direct input into the direction of the PGP project The opportunity to trial product development within their own company Shared interest in creating a new wine product through a collaborative research project Concentrating on Sauvignon Blanc initially Hooker says there will be two major branches to the research project. “First up it will be in the vine-

yard. The idea is to get the grapes producing flavours and aromas at lower brix. How can we manipulate in the vineyard to achieve that goal? “The second phase will be yeast research, where we believe there are options for manipulating yeast populations to produce lower alcohol wines.” It is the yeast that coverts the sugar in the fruit to ethanol carbon (alcohol) with saccharomyces being the most common yeast used in brewing throughout the world. “But not all yeast does that,” Hooker said. “Other yeasts convert that carbon back into yeast, so they are effectively making more yeast or CO2. So you might be able to manipulate the yeast populations to convert a lot of the carbon into non-alcoholic carbon and yet retain the flavour. We are

looking at indigenous species in New Zealand and we have already done a lot of research on that with the Sauvignon Blanc programme.” But just why is NZW placing so many eggs into the low alcohol basket? Because the international demand for lower alcohol wines is growing year by year. Take the UK market for example. A Wine Intelligence report shows that 40% of regular wine drinkers, are influenced by the alcohol level, when buying wine. And 33% of regular wine drinkers have bought a wine, with an alcohol level of lower than 11%. By 2015, 10% of the British market is likely to be low alcohol wines. Other international markets such as Germany, Italy, US, and China are seeking lighter options in wines. And according to the University of Adelaide, Wine Economics Research Sector, lower alcohol beverages are one of the

fastest growing segments of the beverage market, at approximately 30% per annum. While the demand is growing, the production of low alcohol wines internationally has not always been consumer friendly. “I will drink them, when they taste good” is a common retort from consumers. Or once tried never repeated. A lot of that has to do with the way low alcohol wines have been produced. Without vineyard or yeast manipulation, the alternatives for creating low alcohol wines have been blending grape juice into wine, or removing the alcohol from the wine after fermentation. Both methods have an impact on the quality, particularly the mouth feel, which is enhanced by alcohol. Hooker believes New Zealand is in an ideal position to create a niche for itself. Given the growing conditions, the knowledge

base, the well integrated research programme and the innovative approach that has been a corner- Saccharomyce Cerevisiae – the most commonly used yeast around the stone of the industry, he world. The research programme will feels the opportunities be looking at alternatives in an effort to produce lower alcohol wines. are immense. Added to that, is the fact our flagship wine, Sauvignon Blanc, is the research programme. “We have become world leadperfect variety to lead the way. “Sauvignon Blanc is a very aro- ers in terms of Sauvignon Blanc, matic, beautiful wine. If you have now we want to be world leaders a variety that doesn’t have those in terms of low alcohol wines,” attributes, it becomes a hard task. Hooker said. “When someone If a wine hasn’t got much aroma to goes into a restaurant for lunch start with, you can’t afford to lose and wants a low alcohol wine, we any – but that’s not the case with want them to automatically think Sauvignon Blanc.” of New Zealand.” A number of companies are NZW is currently producalready producing low alcohol ing a business plan that will be Sauvignon Blanc, including Per- presented to the MPI within the nod Ricard, Forrest Estate, Invivo, next few months. All going well, Saint Clair and Constellation’s and with industry buy in, Hooker Kim Crawford. hopes to begin the initial research Now the aim is to get the rest phases next year. ■ of New Zealand in behind the tessa.nicholson@me.com

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REGIONS WAIHEKE

CHAMPION OF VITICULTURE Waiheke Island is undergoing a vineyard revolution, spear headed by viticultural consultant, Danny Schuster, writes Joelle Thomson

lobal warming, erratic rainfall and unpredictable heat are pushing grape growers world wide to reconsider their choice of rootstocks, canopy management and even grape varieties and New Zealand needs to move forward or be left behind, says viticulturist Danny Schuster, who consults to wineries in around the world. “There has been an erratic distribution of heat and rain for the past 15 years in Italy, France and California as well as in Australia and New Zealand,” says Schuster, who travels regularly to work in Italy and the Napa Valley, California. Of the past 10 vintages in Bordeaux, Italy and Napa, he says only two were of the long-term pattern, with eight years well outside the norm, in terms of temperature and rainfall. “This is not just gradual warming but very significant,” says Schuster, who moved to Waiheke Island in 2009 after nearly 40 years in North Canterbury. He sees Waiheke as a great challenge because it is in dire need of viticultural change. “The island’s viticultural regimes need to evolve, particularly where canopies are concerned; they need to be smaller, with different leaf age composition and shape in order to be more efficient in water usage – as well as more heat and drought resistant.”

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He describes the island’s growing environment as a cross-over of the Tuscan hills near Florence and coastal Tuscany in Bolgheri; birthplace of the super-Tuscan reds. In addition, Waiheke has soils of volcanic origin, which are are similar to those found on Mount Etna in Sicilia, where he consults as a viticulturist. “Waiheke has the maritime influence that defines New Zealand viticulture but it’s warmer than the rest of the country,” he says. “The heat summation on Waiheke is similar to Hawke’s Bay, but there is more extreme heat during the day and more humidity on Waiheke, with less diurnal temperature variation.” Winter arrives much later on Waiheke Island than anywhere else in the country and is extremely short. This means the vines are in full leaf far longer than other winegrowing areas of New Zealand, yet the pruning regime has largely been the same as for the rest of New Zealand, until now. His mantra is to change canopy management and embrace organics and biodynamics in order to get grapes to full physiological ripeness in the current changing global climatic environment. “We need to move New Zealand out of the 1970s and early 1980s into far more widespread use of organics and biodynamics. There

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

Danny Schuster

are a lot of changing viticultural methods that are passing us by. It’s timely now, especially with global warming changing the climate of so many wine regions around the world so dramatically,” he says. “We talk about climate change in this country as if it’s slowly happening but it’s already having huge effects on the way people in other countries are growing grapes; there are changes to rootstocks, disease risks and even to the grape varieties that are planted,” says Schuster. “Big changes have to be made on Waiheke. There’s a lot more pressure for fungal disease there, so the pruning has to change to avoid creating wounds to old wood on the vine. It is easy to destroy vineyards very quickly on Waiheke

if we prune the same way as in Marlborough. We have to start there.” As well as changing canopy practices, there are other challenges facing Waiheke, including the relatively high level of salt, both in the soils and in the air. “I’ve got more questions than answers when it comes to Waiheke because it’s quite different to other parts of New Zealand. It’s an interesting place for red wines because the climate and soils give them a harder edge, so we need a lot more ripe tannins to carry the minerality these wines get.” ■ jthomson@xtra.co.nz Danny Schuster’s new book, A Guide to Vine Physiology, will be published in English for the first time in October this year by the University of Davis in California.

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WINE TAX

A REASON TO WHINE LEE SUCKLING

ear on year at 1 July, New Zealand sees wine taxes adjusted. Yet again for 2013, we have had an increase, making competitive pricing more difficult, once more, for everyone in the wine industry. At 1 July 2013, excise tax, the domestic product tax that is paid for by wine producers rather than consumers, increased to $2.09 per 750ml bottle ($2.7870 per litre), up from the previous year’s $2.7609 per litre. That in addition to GST, which now sits at 15 percent, means there’s $4.37 in taxes if an average bottle of New Zealand wine retails at $15 – totalling 29 percent of its retail price. This figure includes New Zealand’s

HPA (formerly ALAC) fee, which has remained stable since 2005 at $0.038812 cents per litre. (Figures: IRD, New Zealand Customs) GST’s increase in 2010 has seldom been passed onto the consumer, instead being sucked into the margins of other parties. Despite winegrower lobbying, excise tax, which adds up to over $170 million per year, continues to be collected from the wine producer.

What does excise tax do? Lobbyists will tell you there’s little sense in excise tax - which is placed upon certain consumables including alcohol and tobacco -

being taken from producer margins. Excise tax is a tool to reduce alcohol-related harm by decreasing consumption through price deterrence. To ensure the intended effect, the tax should, more logically, be passed onto consumers. Excise tax creates significant cashflow problems for those in the wine industry. According to accountants Moore Stephens Markhams, in New Zealand, excise “is payable by the winemaker in the month after removal from a Customs Controlled Area, i.e. the point at which wine is released from the winery or licensed storage facility”. In most cases, this is before a winery receives payment

for its product. So while Kiwi winemakers feel the grunt - with almost a third of a wine’s retail price going to the Government - how do we compare to the rest of the world? Here we chart the wine taxes incurred abroad.

Australia Akin to efforts in New Zealand, Australian tax on wine follows the same strategy as tax on tobacco – the price is raised to a point where consumers can’t afford to drink quite as much. Wine Equalisation Tax (WET) exists in Australia at 29 percent of wholesale value, and a 10 percent GST is levied to retail price.

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With the Government taking 29% of the overall cost of a $15 bottle of wine, competitive pricing is very difficult for producers.

This 29 percent wholesale tax equates to around 15 percent of retail price, say AU$2.25 (NZ$2.68) on a AU$15 bottle of wine. This technically makes for higher excise tax than in New Zealand, though a lower Australian GST rate lowers total Government takings on wine in comparison to our side of the Tasman. Based on that average AU$15 per bottle, the total tax fee is AU$3.75, or 25 percent of retail price. (Figures: ATO, IRD) A scheme within WET helps small wine players in Australia to be effectively exempt from that 29

percent wholesale wine tax, which is applied throughout the nation’s grape products. Wine producers can claim up to AU$500,000 in tax rebates in the WET scheme on a financial year’s wholesales up to AU$1.7million. Critics of this scheme such as Darren De Bortoli of De Bortoli wines say WET threatens mid-sized producers by allowing “uneconomic smaller producers” to stay in business. New Zealand winemakers are able to participate in the WET scheme for locally produced product exported to Australia.

UK and Europe Wine tax is felt heavily in the UK, a nation with often-discussed efforts to curb binge drinking. Excise tax sits at £2.00 (NZ$3.93) per 750ml bottle. VAT, or Value Added Tax, is 20 percent. The average bottle of wine sold in the UK in 2012 was £4.87 retail (NZ$9.58), meaning a whopping £2.97 (NZ$5.84) goes to the UK Government. For most bottles of wine purchased in the UK, that’s 61 percent total tax. The UK aside, only in Ireland, Sweden and Finland does excise

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NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

tax exceed 1.50€ in Europe. In France, Belgium, Luxembourg and most Eastern European countries, excise is minimal at a range of 0.01€ to 0.5€. Throughout the rest of Europe, including wine producing nations such as Italy, Germany and Spain, excise tax is non-existent. (Figures: HMRC, WSTA)

France France is a nation where ( just about) the only thing reasonably priced is wine. Excise tax is 3.40€ per hectolitre, which amounts

to 0.025€ per 750ml bottle (NZ$0.04), a miniscule amount – one comparable to New Zealand’s ALAC fee alone. TVA (Value Added Tax) in France is 19.6 percent. A mid-range bottle of wine in France costs around 5€, so there’s only 1€ (NZ$1.68) of total tax per bottle, or 20 percent of retail price. (Figures: CFE-EU) If the French Socialist Party comes into power later this year, it plans to implement new excise taxes on wine to the fee of 0.30€ to 0.40€ per bottle (NZ$0.50 – $0.66). The aim of this tax is to reduce alcohol consumption overall and improve health, however opponents from French conservative parties believe this increased tax will send a negative message that “moderate consumption of wine is bad for one’s health, and leads to alcoholism and binge drinking”.

USA Excise taxes are in place in every state of the USA. Per bottle federal excise tax is US$1.07 per gallon/US$0.21 per 750ml bottle. This converts to NZ$0.27 per bottle. State excise taxes also exist. These range from the top end (Kentucky) at US$3.16 per gallon/ US$0.62 per bottle, to the bottom end (Louisiana) at US$0.11 per gallon/US$0.02 per bottle. Respectively, this equates to NZ$0.79 per bottle in Kentucky and NZ$0.025 per bottle in Louisiana. (Figures: Tax Foundation, TTB) It’s difficult to compare total wine taxes in the United States, as each state places its own state sales tax and city/county rate. Zero percent state and city/county taxes exist in very few states, such as Oregon. Even in Kentucky, the state with the highest state excise tax

on wine, state sales tax is only 6 percent. Thus total taxes (federal and state) on a mid-range (US$10) bottle of wine are roughly US$1.43 (NZ$1.83) plus around US$0.07 city/county taxes. This takes total taxation to around US$1.50, 15 percent of that average bottle’s retail price. In Oregon you’d incur only the US$0.67 (NZ$0.85) excise tax rate per gallon (US$0.13/NZ$0.16 per bottle), plus the federal excise per bottle tax of US$0.21. This makes for minimal taxation per bottle of just US$0.37 (NZ$0.48).

Taxes compared Of the countries compared, the UK Government makes the most out of selling the average bottle of wine at 61 percent of retail price. New Zealand follows with 29 percent, Australia at 25 percent, France at 20 percent, and even in a high excise tax state like Kentucky

in the USA, only 15 percent of the retail price is tax. That figure is further reduced in Oregon to less than 4 percent tax on a US$10 bottle. Generally, the nations with high excise tax, such as New Zealand, Australia and the UK, are countries that recognise the need to curb excess alcoholic consumption. Such nations have sustained campaigns against binge drinking from preventative/proactive health education agencies, such as New Zealand’s Health Promotion Agency and the UK’s National Institute for Health and Care Excellence. Conversely, excess alcohol consumption is often not recognised (let alone documented or campaigned against at a national level) in countries with low or no excise tax, such as various European nations. ■ lee.suckling@gmail.com Exchange rates calculated 28 June 2013

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013 // 49

SOMMELIER’S CORNER CAMERON DOUGLAS MS

NEWS FROM NEW YORK I am writing this article from New York, where I am working with the staff at The Musket Room, a Manhattan restaurant (I am responsible for the wine list and attendant duties) owned by Matt Lambert, a Kiwi chef, and his wife Barbara, an American.

he restaurant features fine New Zealand wines and dishes focussed on New Zealand ingredients – and has already been rated top in its neighbourhood, after only a few weeks of opening. During my regular visits to the USA, I am always excited at the high level of professionalism shown by the Wine Service community, and gratified by the respect that is given to the MS badge. There is little chance of the title ‘Sommelier’ being a self-awarded designation – it is understood that the professional qualification is valued, and hard earned.

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Some in the wine sector of New Zealand are aware of the Master Sommelier qualification. However, given I continue to be the sole holder of the title in New Zealand currently, not too many understand what is involved to earn this badge of office. Master Sommeliers and Masters of Wine have much in common - not the least of which being the journey taken to achieve their goal. While some of the processes and examination systems differ, both involve many years of sacrifice for study, travel, spending a gazillion dollars on wine for blind tasting practice - and a very understanding, supportive spouse/ partner. The journey is hard to explain, unless you’ve been down that road or you’ve followed someone through the many highs and lows, failures, strategy changes and eventual success. Currently, I am working on securing the New Zealand release of a movie called ‘SOMM’ (Somm being industry lingo for Sommelier), which follows the last few weeks of preparation for four USA ‘Advanced’ (third tier) Somms

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

from an increase in professional (the MS qualification is a four Sommeliers presenting their tier system) preparing for the valuable product. When the Master Sommelier exams. The film opens in New legendary MasZealand, it should ter Fred Dame, inspire potential who formed the American Master Sommeliers candidates - it is a valuable insight Chapter of the into the breadth and Court of Master and Masters of Wine have much in depth of learning Sommeliers required to achieve common - not the (CMS) in the 1970s and more least of which being Master Sommelier recently the the journey taken to status. Highlights for me in the film Guild of Somachieve their goal. were the interviews meliers, with Both involve many with the Somms their fantastic and their partners, web-based learn- years of sacrifice for study, travel and outlining their ing tools, was instrumental spending a gazillion passions, and the challenges they each in the developdollars on wine for face. Master Dame ment and release blind tasting practice. talks bluntly about of the SOMM the required comdocumentary mitment and desire film. Only 200 have passed the penultimate to provide the best possible exams since 1969, making the service to customers - and being Diploma an achievement quite an inspiration to others who are unlike any other (the Masters looking at becoming a career exam has a 97% failure rate). The Sommelier. movie was filmed over a couple The film does not cover of years, and offers significant the earlier levels of the CMS insight into the kind of regime program preceding the invitaa Master’s candidate must put tion-only Masters level. This is themselves through to achieve where I can assist – Cameron@ their goal. (Incidentally Fred was guildsomm.com. The next series also instrumental in helping me of New Zealand and Australian bring the CMS programme to Courses and Exams is scheduled New Zealand in 2005). for 2014. The New Zealand Wine If you can’t wait till the Movie Industry will benefit immensely gets here, it’s available online. ■

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VINEYARD NEWS

AMPELOGRAPHY MAX MARRIOTT

Leaf Fondling for Pinotphiles (or Confessions of a Grapevine Leaf Fetishist)

his is how I sat, at the computer, for some hours, attempting to write an article about ampelography. How to talk about, share, entertain – on the subject of ampelography. Gah. There is only a select group of people who even know what the word means, let alone raise an eyebrow or eyelid at its mention: usually a group that comprises nursery staff and/ or grapevine leaf fetishists (you know who you are). So, as an outspoken grapevine leaf fetishist, my forbidden desires of touching, feeling and delving into the dark secrets of grapevine leaves was realized in Gisborne a couple of months ago. It was a safe place – I was in the company of other grapevine leaf fetishists – but so as to make everyone feel comfortable, we were attending an “Ampelography Workshop”: “Leaf Fondling for Pinotphiles” didn’t have quite the same stamp of officialdom. For the uninitiated, ampelography is the identification and

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classification of grapevines. I’ve always associated it simply with the leaf – shape, texture, sinuses, lobes, colour, etc – and whilst there is definitely an emphasis on the leaf, the discipline also takes into account the shoot, shoot tip, tendrils, inflorescence, bunch, berry and even the timing of phenological stages. There are in fact 89 descriptors for distinguishing the variety of a grapevine, which then have to be classified over two years to register a new variety in the French catalogue. The workshop in Gisborne – hosted and strongly attended by Riversun employees – was covered off over two days, first looking at rootstocks, then varieties and clones, with classroom theory in the mornings and practical sessions in the field of an afternoon. It’s not every day that you have the world’s leading expert – of anything – in your midst, so we were incredibly fortunate to have Jean- Michel Boursiquot leading the course, with his very capable colleague Laurent Audeguin.

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

Jean- Michel Boursiquot one of the world’s top 200 wine /vine experts.

Boursiquot was just recently included in the world’s top 200 most influential wine/vine people (as the only ampelographer) by French magazine La Revue des Vins de France, a reckoning long bestowed upon him by his peers. When he first spoke to the class, he had nonchalantly taken a deep breath before exclaiming “It is nice to be here – there is more oxygen here than Europe and France” (a veiled metaphor I am sure!).

and GDD dictates what grape varieties will grow where, so despite the extensive and incredibly interesting selection of new varieties on display at Riversun, there are only ever a handful suitable for the frosty, short season and harsh climate of Central Otago (this is where the clonal developments were more pertinent). However, it seems that rootstock exploration in vineyards is largely unchartered territory.

“DNA fingerprinting is part of our selection process and it is also a service we offer to the industry: nurseries, consultants and wineries. In the future, we believe we’ll move from classic variety identification to clonal identification, since we are already able to distinguish some clones.” – Laurent Audeguin Geoff Thorpe, Managing Director of Riversun, understood the magnitude of having these two experts, colleagues and friends in New Zealand, “Jean-Michel is widely recognised as THE world authority in this field of study and research, and Laurent - as head of clonal selection at ENTAV - is equally knowledgeable and talented in this field. I think all who attended the course would agree when I say that we learnt as much about the selection history and fruiting characteristics of all the varieties and clones as we did about the science of ampelography.” As someone who spends most of his time in the vineyard, there was so much to take away from this course, but the real eyeopener for me was the coverage on rootstocks. More and more I find myself delving into what’s going on beneath us, in the soil, and how the grapevines interact with that soil and what goes on in the rhizosphere. To a large extent, climate

There are a range of safe, go-to rootstocks that most of the industry seems to use, but the suitability of lesser known rootstocks to the individuality and uniqueness of different sites and regions – and importantly the destination of the fruit and management regime – are yet to be explored fully. Riparia Gloire, 3309 and 101-14 are all classed as susceptible to drought (with varying degrees of vigour conferred to the scion), yet these rootstocks are some of the most common in New Zealand’s driest regions (obviously for reasons that outweigh drought-tolerance). There are currently 31 different rootstocks available in France – the most successful and popular are the result of riparia, rupestris and berlandieri crosses – with roughly a third in active use, a third of interest, and a third not used. “When choosing a rootstock, the point of view of the winegrower is different to the nursery manager”, points out Boursiquot.

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NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013 // 53

“Firstly, as a nursery manager, we want resistance to the pest, then suitability to the soil/ climate, and thirdly, quality of the production. The winegrower has to remember and consider this when contemplating which rootstocks to use.” In terms of identification and classification, the same observational techniques apply for rootstocks as for cultivars. These include the villi (hairs) of the leaves/shoots (prostrate vs erect, density), colour (of the shoots, veins, young leaves, berry skin/ flesh, etc), shape of the shoot tip (open, half-open, closed), shape of the mature leaf (cordate, wedgeshaped, pentagonal, circular and kidney-shaped), appearance of the mature leaf (interveinal goffering/ bullate, blade profile twisted/flat/ v-fold, etc), number and shape of

lobes/sinuses, size and shape of teeth, berries and seeds, sex of flowers, type of tendrils and so forth. Incredibly detailed and such an art form seeing these experts in action! Boursiquot advises on how they process new trial material: “You need to make a good observation, and according to this observation, you should make a hypothesis based on 1, 2, 3 or 4 parameters, rather than the total 89 descriptors. For certain cultivars, the teeth or the petiolar sinus may be very important. You then have to check if your hypothesis is correct. If the hypothesis fails, it can often be very important.” Mo d e r n a m p e l o g r a p h y has gained traction with the emergence of DNA fingerprinting and molecular marking. Not only is it providing definitive answers

for parentage of cultivars and confirmation of cultivar types based on a source archive, there are also exciting prospects for the future of this technology. “DNA fingerprinting is part of our selection process and it is also a service we offer to the industry: nurseries, consultants and wineries”, remarks Audeguin. “In the future, we believe we’ll move from classic variety identification to clonal identification, since we are already able to distinguish some clones. The next step will be using that technology to sort genotypes with molecular markers (there are some for fungus resistance, sex, muscat flavour, etc) or to make clonal selection more rapid and efficient.” However, despite the brave new world out there, both Boursiquot and Audegin are

adamant that genetic modification is not on the horizon. They are equally assured of the traditional approach to ampelography. “Traditional ampelography will always be important. You need the expertise so that you can see if the one vineyard is grown with the same cultivar, or something different. This allows you to make analyses and correct identification; the traditional and modern methods are complementary”, states Boursiquot. Audeguin adds “Both will be complementary for a long time. We will always need to see the vines because technology will not provide all of the answers. There are interactions between the environment, the plant and the grower that make their expertise in the field mandatory.” ■ max@maxmarriott.com

Laurent Audeguin head of clonal selection at ENTAV in France.

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NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

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WINE NEWS

TOM’S THE WORD JOELLE THOMSON

or a white wine that was nearly tipped into a tank of something else, Tom Chardonnay certainly hits high notes with media and consumers, thanks to the determination of Hawke’s Bay winemaker Chris Scott. The latest vintage is 2010. It’s made from the first half of free run Chardonnay – “the wine with the most intensity and complexity” says Scott, who adds that the wine is then barrel aged and further selected from there. When Scott first suggested a top white Tom to match its red stable mate, he met with firm resistance from the company’s marketers. They couldn’t see a

place for a high priced white alongside the red, which had already forged a firm identity on its own. But Scott went ahead. He hoped that by putting Chardonnay’s best foot forward, he could convince the marketing powers to release a top Tom white eventually. That was 2007. They weren’t convinced and directed the wine to be blended away. It’s a common story in large wineries where passionate winemakers want to

Tom Chardonnay certainly hits high notes with media and consumers, thanks to the determination of Hawke’s Bay winemaker Chris Scott. innovate and, as is also often the case, Scott didn’t follow the directive. Instead, he racked it into a stainless steel tank where he aged it on light lees and later introduced the wine to an impressed group of marketers at the winery, who

were finally convinced to give him free reign and release it. Both of the Tom wines are named in homage to Tom McDonald, who spearheaded top shelf Hawke’s Bay reds based on the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes. He also founded the original McDonald Winery, which we now know as Church Road; where both Tom wines are made. ■ jthomson@xtra.co.nz

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EUROTEC

REGIONS HAWKE’S BAY

CHINESE DEMAND GROWS MARY SHANAHAN

s Hawke’s Bay wine exporters continue to gain traction in China, some of those familiar with the market are stressing the importance of safeguarding the New Zealand brand. Protective of this country’s reputation for integrity and premium wine production, they say they don’t want to see shipments of bulk wine to China or any softening in the focus on quality winemaking. Hawke’s Bay wines, and in particular premium reds, are making strong headway in the expansive Chinese market, boosting export returns. Seventeen Hawke’s Bay wineries now export to China. Other companies such as Villa Maria, Babich and Mills Reef have wineries located elsewhere but have a significant presence in Hawke’s Bay. Hawke’s Bay Winegrowers executive officer James Medina agrees that China represents a huge opportunity for the region.

Alwyn Corban

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013 // 57

ther and further afield with every trip. The reason is that China represents a good opportunity for Hawke’s Bay.” Corban says exports to China now comprise 25 percent of Ngatarawa’s production – “and I see that building”. “Where Hawke’s Bay has an advantage is that the Chinese have a very strong preference for reds. They prefer wines that are soft in tannin and acid and Hawke’s Bay red wines fit into that category really well. “The Chinese are interested in lifestyle which means a western lifestyle, what we eat and drink and consume. As part of that, they are interested in healthy living. With the emerging middle class, our wine fits in on both those counts.” France has actively marketed to the Chinese for many years, Corban says, and their benchmark for fine wine is Bordeaux. “We can go in on their coat tails. The perception of New Zealand is that it is clean, healthy and pure – all positive things. The Chinese really want authenticity and integ-

Dan Baker

Studying for a Diploma in Wine Marketing, he finds it interesting that a significant number of his classmates are Chinese nationals. Several Hawke’s Bay-based wine companies have told New Zealand Winegrower that, in the wake of global recession, China is the region’s “saviour”. Moana Park owner and winemaker Dan Barker believes it is potentially New Zealand’s biggest market for wine. “Hawke’s Bay is only just featuring on the radar in terms of exponential growth rather than volume,” Barker says. Last year, China was New Zealand’s sixth largest export destination for wine by value and volume. Wineries are increasingly exploring opportunities in the post-2012 tariff-free environment following the signing of the free trade agree-

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“Where Hawke’s Bay has an advantage is that the Chinese have a very strong preference for reds. They prefer wines that are soft in tannin and acid and Hawke’s Bay red wines fit into that category.” – Alwyn Corban ment by the two countries in 2008. One of eight wineries to take part in the Chengdu Wine & Spirits Fair’s first-ever New Zealand pavilion earlier this year, Ngatarawa Wines – at the vanguard of Hawke’s Bay’s export drive into China – opened an office and showroom in Guangzhou, the major city in the south of Canton province, in 2010. “That is really our base and home in China,” managing director and chief winemaker Alwyn Corban says. “We have gone fur-

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

rity with what they buy and they are prepared to pay a premium for that. We have to protect that. They are very aware of fakes and rip offs.” Ngatarawa ships its full range of brands as bottled wine – “we get asked to send in bulk because it’s cheaper, but you can’t do that.” Corban says Chinese concern about bulk wine imported from anywhere in the world centres on the perception that there is a high risk of adulteration and misrepresentation. “It is important that New Zea-

land and Hawke’s Bay work to maintain this country’s premium position in the Chinese market.” Barker, who has co-owned Moana Park with wife Kaylea since 2008, agrees. “The bulk thing, as the melamine-in-milk scandal demonstrated, could seriously damage the region’s reputation as a quality producer.” Based in Puketapu, west of Taradale, Moana Park first exported wine to China in 2009. The winery has grown 1000 percent in the last five years, and the Chinese market now accounts for more than half its business. Exporting to 11 other countries, the company can’t meet Chinese demand. As a measure of that, Barker was recently asked to supply 20 containers of Syrah. “I don’t think all of Hawke’s Bay could supply that much at the moment. We get two or three contacts a week from people wanting to source wine for China – they pull up here in their black BMWs. Everyone in the world is trying to sell wine into China. Our free trade agreement gives us a real advantage, but this advantage won’t last and quality must be the focus.” Demand from China is such that some Hawke’s Bay wineries, hard hit by last year’s low volumes, started bottling 2013 reds four months after vintage. Ironically, some Hawke’s Bay vineyards have been pulled out in recent times and, with planting continuing apace in Marlborough, Hawke’s Bay accounted for just 11.5 percent of this year’s national crush. Barker sees the region’s challenge now as not having enough land in grapes. “It’s time to get in quick before land prices start happening. It’s going to happen like Marlborough. There’s been huge development in the Awatere and Waihopai valleys and I think we will see that happening in Hawke’s Bay.” ■ maryshanahan173@gmail.com

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EVENTS BRAGATO

ROMEO BRAGATO CONFERENCE The theme for this year’s Bragato conference is Back to the Future – Looking Back as We Move Forward.

t is the 19th time the industry has held the Bragato conference and it’s timely that we look at the past. Programme coordinator Emma Taylor says we need to remember the lessons we have learned so we don’t make the same mistakes in the future. “We are maturing as an industry and there are so many young people involved now that haven’t been through a lot of the issues that have faced us in the past.

Issues like phylloxera and Cyclone Bola are things that impacted heavily on the wine industry, yet so many people have no experience of how to deal with major issues like these.” She admits that sometimes it is easier to forget devastating events rather than to remember them, but lessons can be learned. “It’s all very well managing each season, but the big events can be devastating and the effects can

INDUSTRY EXHIBITION LAYOUT

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NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

be felt for years.” Some of the issues to be covered during the conference will be; the vine pull of 1985/86 – and the future of grape vines and clones. Phylloxera and its impact – what are the future disease threats? Biosecurity issues and how they could impact, with a close look at what PSA did to the Kiwifruit industry. Undervine management from scientific, conventional and organic viewpoints. The use of

chemicals and whether resistance is growing. And finally the leaders debate, where pioneers of the industry give their viewpoint on where New Zealand wine is heading in the future. The Romeo Bragato conference is being held in Blenheim from August 28 – 30. Registrations can be made by visiting; www.bragato.org.nz ■

Romeo Bragato 19th Annual Conference Marlborough Convention Centre 42A Alfred Street, Blenheim August 28-30, 2013

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NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

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REGIONS HAWKE’S BAY

EXCHANGE SCHOLARSHIP MARY SHANAHAN

ragato Exchange Scholar Alice Bottarel is eagerly anticipating a “new adventure in wine”, while spending time in New Zealand. The 19-year-old from the small town of Colbertaldo in north-eastern Italy is this year’s winner of the annual scholarship established in 2003 to commemorate the legendary Italian viticulturist Romeo Bragato. The annual exchange provides a student from the famed

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Scuola Enoligica di Conegliano – Italy’s premier viticultural educator and Bragato’s alma mater – and a top achiever from EIT’s wine science and viticulture school, the opportunity to explore wine regions in each other’s country. Highlights in Alice’s programme will include attending the Romeo Bragato Conference in Blenheim, and visiting wineries throughout the country. It a l y ’ s 2 0 0 7 B ra g a to Exchange Scholar Enrico Battiston revisited New Zealand

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

this year and his trip included a visit to Millton vineyard in Gisborne which, on his original trip, sparked his interest in studying organic grapegrowing. After completing his bachelor’s degree at the University of Udine in northern Italy, Enrico started master’s studies at Montpellier in southern France. Majoring in organics with an emphasis on rootstocks, he is currently finishing his studies in Geisenheim in Germany. ■ maryshanahan173@gmail.com

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SWNZ UPDATE

DASHBOARD – THE COMPLETE PACKAGE TESSA NICHOLSON

ew Zealand’s wine industry is in the perfect position to be the first of the country’s primary producers to implement a new environmental reporting programme. The government and industries funded $11 million New Zealand Sustainability Dashboard project will assist growers to manage the plethora of information and

reporting necessities required, while also providing the wherewith-all to make management decisions. Jon Manhire from AgriBusiness Group is leading the project, known simply as Dashboard. “Underneath there are a whole lot of different initiatives going on, but the end point is we will have an on-line tool that growers can

log into. It will provide them with reports on their environmental, social and economic performance and enable them to benchmark and compare with others as well.” While you may think this initiative is similar to what SWNZ already provides growers and wineries – Manhire says Dashboard will consolidate a lot of information that is currently scattered.

“There are bits and pieces all over the place and it’s not actually all bought into. We see an opportunity to bring all that information together, which will allow the chance to share that down the line with the market, on what the environmental impact of grape growing actually is. It will also provide the all important transparency.” There are other advantages

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of having all the information together given much of it available via Dashboard is the same information that regulators require. “There is a lot of recognition that (Regional Councils) are trying to encourage industries to try and manage their own affairs. Let’s have audited self-management where growers introduce their own system and have their own monitoring and auditing systems, such as the SWNZ programme. If the council is happy with the way that is being run and the integrity is there to see, they may be happy to sign that off. Suddenly the growers aren’t going to be hit with another level of reporting to councils.” The success of the current SWNZ programme means the wine industry is in an enviable position when it comes to adopting Dashboard Manhire says. “You have built up a very good

infrastructure and it has grown organically over the years to build up the entire Sustainable Winegrowing programme. That makes you pretty powerful internationally. They are really good building blocks for what we want to do.” Dashboard will also help to add the gloss back to the sustainable programme in terms of international markets. “Non government organisations who evaluate these schemes are becoming a lot more cynical about claims,” Manhire says. “The days of saying ‘I am green, believe me,’ are gone. You have to be able to prove that you are. New Zealand Wine has had to lift its game in terms of communication. It has had a good story, but the communication in relation to that story of sustainability has been a problem. Dashboard, having some key performance environmental indicators and being able to report very

ROTARY TRIMMERS

transparently on what’s happening right through to the market, is going to be a high point here.” And before you throw up your arms and say – ‘What more paperwork?’ – he says don’t panic. Dashboard will only enhance what you are currently doing – not increase it. “The growers won’t have to do anything more. The information for spray diaries and scorecards will feed in from Green Light or any other information system they have and then it will enable that information to be related to production, quality or financial information. Our aim is to make life easier for growers.” Being able to benchmark yourself against other growers in your region is just one of the benefits, which given the tough times in recent years is a major positive. Manhire says growers are looking

for shortcuts in terms of how to optimise their resource use, along with optimising their inputs. “I think Dashboard will provide some very good keys for that. And it will speed it up.” With hopes of having Dashboard up and running next year, Manhire is now looking for a group of 30 growers who would be interested in piloting the prototype. “We want to test it, fine tune it and evaluate what the growers themselves feel about it.” If you are keen to take part in the pilot programme for Dashboard, contact Jon Manhire; jon@ agribusinessgroup.com. ■ tessa.nicholson@me.com

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BOB’S BLOG BOB CAMPBELL MW Sipping Sauvignon online I had no idea there was an annual “Sauvignon Blanc day” until the ever diligent David Strada told me that I had been invited to sit on a televised tasting of a Sauvignon Blanc tasting in the Napa Valley. Panellists included wine retailer Chuck Hayward, St Supéry winemaker Michael Scholz and wine author Linda Murphy. We tasted Sauvignon from France, California and New Zealand and discussed each style on camera. Topics covered include regional styles, the influence of oak, food matching and (of course) closures. You can watch the hour-long session on http://www.youtube.com/watch ?v=W2fEJSGUC7g&feature=pl ayer_embedded

Promoting Pinot in the US As part of a New Zealand promotion in New York and San Francisco I presented a regional selection of wines to groups in each city. My instructions were to pick wines that would wow the distinguished members of the wine trade and wine press invited to each event. Both tastings attracted a full house with a waiting list. The wines were tasted blind by region to invite comparisons of regional character and to demonstrate the diversity of Pinot Noir styles now being made in New Zealand. Guests were invited to vote for a favourite in each region as well as a favourite overall. I diligently recorded the votes and was surprised to see that the New York group favoured completely different wines to the crowd in San Francisco. They agreed on only one thing – that the standard of New Zealand Pinot Noir was even better than they had imagined. NZ Winegrower’s man in the US, David Strada, invited a select group of people to taste a selection of Kiwi classics from his cellar at an outstanding San Francisco restaurant, Atelier Crenn. The flavours and presentation of every dish was fantastic. I strongly recommend this fashionable restaurant.

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NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

Critics criticised The NZ Herald recently featured a story about a winemaker statistician who had set up duplicate samples in several wine shows to test the consistency of wine show judges. Because the judges didn’t duplicate their score for the same wine every time, they were criticised for being ineffective, although the author of the trial did concede that standards varied across judges. I regularly judge in both local and international wine competitions and do find a significantly higher rate of consensus between judges in local competitions. Is that because we have better judges or that the majority of our wines are sealed with screwcaps?

Wine judging in California After a week in London judging at the Decanter Wine Awards I flew to Los Angeles to continue judging wine, this time at the Riverside International Wine Competition in Temecula, a two-hour drive south-east of Los Angeles airport. I once lived in Los Angeles for a couple of years and still regard it as a home away from home. I find an American accent creeping in as I clear immigration. This was my first visit to Temecula, a wine area that sprang out of the dessert in the sixties. Temecula is more about wine tourism than the production of fine wine although I did taste a number of excellent sparkling wines that have obviously benefited from the area’s high altitude (430 m), morning mists and very cool nights during the ripening season. The wine competition has been running for 32 years. It’s a 21/2 day event featuring 48 judges and impeccably organised by the well known wine critic, Dan Berger. Although it is an international event there were very few New Zealand entries resulting in only five medals. This is a high profile wine show in the US. It would be good to see a stronger Kiwi presence. One unusual feature of the show was trophy judging. If there were ten contenders for a trophy each judge could vote for none, if the standard was too low, or they could vote for all ten wines if they were equally outstanding. The trophy was awarded to the wine with the highest number of votes. It seemed to work.

Shanghai tales I accepted an invitation to judge at the Shanghai International Wine Challenge (SIWC) for the second time. The motivation to judge wine in Shanghai was, like most competitions, influenced by the prospect of catching up with old friends and making new ones. The workload is fairly light, with a daily total of around 60 wines compared to more than twice that number at Australasian shows. At the end of judging, usually mid-afternoon, we would spend an hour or so tasting wine with employees of local wine importers. It was a pleasure to fuel their obvious enthusiasm. After the wine show I spent three days lecturing 30 students on a NZ Wine Certification Program for wine professionals. They were the most serious and attentive students I have ever encountered. There was a considerable amount of tension in the air during an exam which included a tasting, written questions (which could be answered in Mandarin) and a tasting of six wines. Everyone passed the exam (compared to a 75% pass rate last time) with seven achieving a distinction pass (above 75%). After every visit to China I return with a number of gifts. On this trip I received a 15 year-old bottle of sherry which I dropped on the airport floor, a fancy Screwpull corkscrew that was detected and confiscated by Chinese customs and some shrink-wrapped Chinese food which I declared to NZ Customs who binned it. Bugger. ■

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REGIONS HAWKE’S BAY

BETTER TIMES, BIGGER AUCTION MARY SHANAHAN

he Hawke’s Bay Charity Fine Wine Auction held over Queen’s Birthday week raised $91,600 for Cranford Hospice – well up on last year’s total of $65,000. Staged at the Church Road winery and attracting 240 guests, the event incorporated both traditional and new features. Online bidding was a first in the 22-year history of the fundraiser, which returned to a dinner format after last year moving to an afternoon event with tapas-style food. winepress_240713.pdf As always, Hawke’s Bay winer- 1

ies donated generously and the 35 lots attracted spirited bidding. Many fine wine lots were created specially for the event. The auction included two tribute lots. A dozen bottle selection of Gimblett Gravels blended reds and Syrahs, dedicated to the late broadcaster and Hawke’s Bay local Sir Paul Holmes, a former MC of the event, fetched $3550. A barrique of Sacred Hill’s Rifleman Chardonnay and a limited print of an image taken by Te 24/07/13 3:43 PM Awanga photographer Richard

Brimer as a memorial to his son Joseph, who died in January after battling a disease, realised $5100. As in past years, Ngatarawa Wines generously donated a 225litre barrel of wine. This year it was the auctioneer, Napier MP Chris Tremain, who successfully bid $5500 to secure the 2011 Syrah lot for himself. Over the years, the auction has evolved to include several travel and hospitality packages. Crab Farm’s evening matching wines with a degustation dinner for 10 made $2950 and the hammer fell

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on the biggest single lot, a week’s stay in Vanuatu, donated by Reef House owner Glen Craig, at $6400. An art lot is a traditional highlight of the annual event, with Dick Frizzell, Martin Poppelwell, Brent Redding, Piera McArthur and Des Robertshaw among past donor artists. This year’s featured artist was Nic Scotland, whose circular painting The View made $6150 for the regional hospital. The evening began with tastings and was followed by a candlelit three-course dinner matched to leading Hawke’s Bay wines. ■

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REGIONS CENTRAL OTAGO

A VINTAGE EXPERIENCE JOELLE THOMSON

ow well can a wine writer understand their subject from the safe distance of a desk, a long black and the dulcet tones of Pitch Black percolating through the air? The answer, for me, is: not very. Not all of the time anyway. Even after 20 years of writing columns, authoring books, tasting constantly, reading, travelling around the world to wineries and teaching about wine, it’s clear there’s another layer. Vintage beckoned. The question of where was solved when Central Otago winemaker Rudi Bauer invited me to Quartz Reef for part of vintage 2013. The only trouble is: as a writer with a steady stream of deadlines – and parent responsibilities too – the amount of time I can take out is capped, but it’s not impossible. So, this April I headed south for a short and sweet week over vintage at Quartz Reef, visiting Otago’s sub-regions in between getting my

hands and feet stained in purple Pinot Noir. Talk about plunging in at the deep end. Not the vintage work; the travel. Distances between Gibbston, Wanaka, Cromwell and Alexandra are great enough, but differences in climate, soil types and weather patterns are even more profound when gentle rain gives way to torrential downpours, snow, extreme cold and moderate warmth, all in one day. Then, later that same day, the arid landscape of Alexandra looks like a complete stranger to the mere idea of humidity, let alone rainfall. I always thought of Hawke’s Bay as the most diverse wine region in New Zealand. Its diurnal variation may not be as marked as Marlborough’s but it’s massively different sub-climates and soils from north to south, coast to inland and frosty to downright stinking hot all make it a strong contender for most diverse, but

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Otago is knocking on that door too. Its dramatic differences in climate, soils, lack of soils (aka schist) and variation in weather patterns make it an endlessly varied, fascinating wine region. But the main drama in Central in April this year was in the winery. And what delicious drama it was to begin the day with a warm dark Pinot Noir ferment needing its measurements taken. Coffee be damned. This was a far more stimulating daily kick start. Rudi worked his first full vintage at Rippon in 1990 so his experience in the region makes him an outstanding person to

show the ropes to someone new in the winery. Even more so because he gives real responsibilities to all members of his team from the wine writer to the Spanish winemaking intern, Yolanda Carazo, and his Chablis winemaker; part of the annual Central Otago Burgundy Exchange. It may not be everyone’s style to let others into their winery but the lessons we all learnt from each other are hard to put a price tag on. I understand a little more about malolactic fermentation in Chablis now, thanks to the resident visiting Burgundian winemaker, Edouard

Lepesme, who had never put Pinot in barrel prior to this year. Our daily barrel tastings and after work international blind tastings from day one were excellent. Day two at Quartz Reef saw me measuring ferments without supervision. Rudi was happy when I remarked that one of them had no alcohol, smelt like plastic and didn’t appear to be doing anything in the way of fermenting. It was then time to climb up the press and help ease freshly picked Riesling in. Even hosing out bins afterwards was a lesson in the rapidly changing autumn temperatures in our southernmost wine region. It wasn’t as cold as a soft northerner might imagine but the heady summer heat was long gone. Speaking of heights – the top of the press, for instance – they are not my forte, but I could get used to such giddy summits for the privilege of working so closely with wine grapes. It’s no surprise to find vintage

variations in Central are extreme. It would be a rare year in which Central Otago’s sub-zones – Gibbston, Alexandra, Wanaka, Cromwell, Pisa, Lowburn and Bendigo – had uniformity in vintage conditions, but this year the region’s vines are in relatively good health compared with the past three years. All winemakers spoken to – and the ferments I tried – show that it’s an intensely fragrant year for Pinot Noir from Central. The word on the street was that 2013 was going to be a relatively small harvest, thanks to Jack Frost’s chilling visit in spring, which affected the entire region with cooler temperatures. Those directly impacted with fruit loss, Bendigo and Gibbston, harvested between 10 and 30% rather than the open slather feared by some winemakers. Crop reduction wasn’t the issue that Phil Hanford from Grasshopper Rock and Mike Wing, viticulturist of Two

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Paddocks, had initially expected. Bunch sizes were smaller on some vineyards in Alexandra but thanks to effective frost protection system – sprinklers - the vines escaped the worst. Some bunch weights were not reduced at all. The experience of working even part of vintage provided more insights into wine than I could have imagined. Whole bunch characters leap into my olfactory senses like never before. And the final numbers prove that even Jack Frost can’t keep a good wine region down. The total harvest in Central Otago this year, as reported in the June/July issue of New Zealand Winegrower, was up marginally on last. The final total for 2013 vintage was 8350 tonnes compared with 8115 tonnes in 2012. This growth predominantly reflects early fruit set and settled summer weather rather than growing vineyard area. The openness of Central Otago’s winemakers in sharing information, time and knowledge made my vintage week an invaluable source of stories, information and insights into grapes, clones, vineyards,

ferments, new trials and tastings. For all that, the best part was the

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n Auckland company has been nominated for the Oscars of the wine world. New Lynn-based WineSearcher.com added an online magazine to its huge database of wines just 16 months ago, and has now been shortlisted for the prestigious Louis Roederer International Wine Writers’ Awards – Wine Website of the Year 2013. While its head office is in New Zealand, Wine-Searcher publishes wine news, interviews and features from around the world, and has high-profile columnists and contributors around the globe – from California and Champagne to Chile and China.

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NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

“It’s very exciting for a New Zealandbased company to be recognized on the global stage,” said Editor Rebecca Gibb. “There are many well-established websites that have been nominated, and for us to be shortlisted as a newcomer to the wine writing scene shows we have made an immediate impression on the industry.” A number of Wine-Searcher contributors are also named on the Louis Roederer shortlists. San Francisco-based W. Blake Gray is a finalist for Online Wine Columnist of the Year; Jane Anson is nominated for International Wine Book of the Year for “Bordeaux Legends,” published in October 2012; and Master of Wine Tim Atkin is a

nominee for International Wine Columnist of the Year and International Wine Feature Writer of the Year, as well as being among Wine-Searcher’s five competitors for International Wine Website of the Year. Charles Metcalfe, chairman of the judges, noted that competition for a place on the shortlists was particularly fierce this year. “We had more entries this year than ever before and the sheer quality of the entries in several categories made for lively debate.” The winners will be announced on Tuesday, September 10, at London’s Royal Academy of Arts.■

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REGIONS HAWKE’S BAY

RESEARCH OPPORTUNITIES MARY SHANAHAN

ecently appointed associate professor in viticulture at EIT, Carmo Saunders-Vasconcelos is keen to tackle research projects that will be meaningful and helpful to the Hawke’s Bay wine region. “I would like a close relationship with the industry,” the Portuguese-born viticulturist says. “That is my goal.” Dr Vasconcelos comes to the role, with an impressive reputation as a researcher. She has worked on projects in Switzerland,

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the USA and, in more recent years, New Zealand. In the past, her focus has largely been on Pinot Noir – and also in Marlborough, Sauvignon Blanc – so she appreciates that it’s going to be a learning curve working with varieties that are more representative of Hawke’s Bay. But, she says, experimenting is what keeps the job interesting. And after three years working outside the industry, she is happy to be revisiting her passion for grapes and returning to academia.

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

Committed to a hands-on approach to teaching, Dr Vasconcelos wants to involve her degree students in research projects undertaken in the vineyard. While ensuring things are done correctly, she will also see that “they learn by watching and doing”. In fact, she says, that is what sparked her lifelong passion for grapevines. Growing up in Lisbon, her introduction to viticulture was through a boyfriend whose family had a hobby vineyard. “They invited friends to do the

work, including harvest. I just fell in love with it all and at 15 decided that I wanted to work with grapes.” After studying for her first degree in agricultural engineering, Dr Vasconcelos chose Switzerland for the required six-month internship. Her timing couldn’t have been

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better for conducting research at the Swiss Federal Research Station for Fruitgrowing, Viticulture and Horticulture in Wadenswil. Sustainable viticulture originated in Switzerland, and the knowledge acquired in working with other crops such as apples was being applied to growing grapes. “I consider myself fortunate to have been in Wadenswil at a time when sustainable viticulture production systems were being developed as I had an opportunity to work on interdisciplinary projects with entomologists, soil scientists and pathologists testing the impact of pests and diseases and environment on grapevine physiology.” Earning her PhD in grape physiology, Dr Vasconcelos progressed to post-doctorate study at Michigan State University and was subsequently appointed assistant professor of viticulture at Oregon State University. Meanwhile, in Hawke’s Bay, grape grower Kevyn Moore was helping organise New Zealand’s 1996 Bragato Conference and he invited Dr Vasconcelos to deliver a keynote address on sustainable viticulture. “That visit to New Zealand was instrumental in my decision to accept the science team leader position at Marlborough Horticulture Research in 2007,” she

says. “I directed a Foundation for Research Science and Technology research project focused on Pinot Noir until December 2009.” Dr Vasconcelos has also undertaken research for New Zealand Winegrowers, investigating harvest defoliation on the carbon and nitrogen balance of high-yielding Sauvignon Blanc grapes and the impact of vine vigour and crop load on accumulation of key flavours and flavour precursors in grape berries. Two years after moving to New Zealand, she met husband-to-be David Saunders – the managing director and owner of Elanza Technologies Ltd. As the company’s innovation manager, she has enjoyed learning about research in other areas including consumer behaviour and challenges to the fresh produce supply chain. Although she has been in Hawke’s Bay for just a short time, she is already talking to people in the industry about what research they would like done. “I have found them approachable and committed to the region,” she says. “The industry here is older and there’s a sense of community. I’m looking forward to working with the more diverse Hawke’s Bay wine industry and embracing the new challenges.” ■ maryshanahan173@gmail.com

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REGIONS CENTRAL OTAGO

PINOT CENTRAL MAX MARRIOTT

entral Otago has achieved something that very few other wine regions in the world have. And it’s happened in less than three decades. Here is a region that has firmly stamped its footprint on the world stage as a serious, quality-driven New World mecca for Pinot Noir. Moreover, the region is now synonymous with this variety, much like Marlborough is for Sauvignon Blanc. It is quite remarkable how this brand – Central Pinot – has swept throughout international wine markets, not as a commodity, but as a serious premium product that commands top dollar. Thanks to the foresight of pioneers, thanks to the unique climate and soils, thanks to the dynasties of winemakers and viticulturists who continue to live and breathe Pinot Noir in this region. The people of the industry here are savvy, cunning, innovative and adaptable. You have to be when the wine markets are becoming ferociously ruthless. They’re also welltravelled and very well-versed with the Pinots from elsewhere in the world – call it market research. And while these international

wines provide very worthwhile context, the looking glass is always firmly planted on Central Otago, to determine what improvements can be made, where the styles are going, what the public is looking for and, perhaps more recently, what the region is telling us. To that end, there was an opportunity to interview a bevy of winemakers of the region for

their take on the status quo. Where has Central Otago Pinot been, and where is it going? How are the different sites and sub-regions being interpreted, what is the market asking for, what are we giving the market, and how do we see the Pinot styles from this region evolving? Critics of Central Otago Pinot have levelled remarks about Pinot typicity, questioning the boldness

in the wines and sometimes the alcohol levels. These qualities are not foreign to the local winemakers, who are each dealing with them in their own way. “Pretty much the full stratum of consumers perceive the Central Otago style as a fruit-bomb – “bold and super-charged”, comments Rockburn winemaker Malcolm Rees-Francis. “I don’t believe any

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of us really set out to make this style of Pinot, but that is what the climate here is giving us to work with, and it has won the hearts and minds of many. Are we supposed to make wine that reflects the site and season or chase fashion?” Christopher Keys, winemaker for Gibbston Valley Wines, adds his thoughts: “I don’t think we are the agents of hedonistic fruit bombs. Yes we have fruit, but I think the fruit bomb style is not one actively sought by those who have vineyards or wineries here. As the relationship between vineyard, vine and the people working them develops, structural complexity, tension and poise become more integral to Central Otago’s Pinot Noir expression. I think the 2013 wines will show that. “I think wineries that are outside of Central Otago that have access to Central fruit can think of

the place as a source of dark, ripe, rich Pinot Noir. Vineyards are set up for easy mechanised production in safe reliable sub-regions on flats. That will give a style of Pinot Noir that says nothing to me apart from commodity and perhaps an invented marketing concept. The true interest is with the guys who have been here for years, who have their identity, their vineyards, their wineries, their partners and their lives here. I thought this was a place to make dark, rich Pinot Noirs when I first came here: what a boring concept that was, and what a boring person I was!” Matt Connell, winemaker and general manager for Akarua, believes the fruit is part of the Central Otago Pinot Noir fabric, “I think each year of knowledge has seen producers gaining a greater level of complexity in their wines. Central wines keep getting called “fruit bombs” but I think this is

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a misconception promoted by media. Sure they do have fruit but they are wines – they should! I see just as much fruit character in other regions. The wines have great concentration and “life”, but this is because the region was planted for quality. Warm days and cool nights of a semi-continental climate that add brightness by retaining freshness and acidity are hallmarks of world class Pinot Noir.” Tasting through aged pinots from regions all over the world, it always strikes me how wines of the ‘80s and early ‘90s had very low alcohols (12-13%) and (most) seem to age gracefully. There is no doubt that alcohol creep has occurred in more recent times, pushing into 13.5-14% territory and higher, but the mechanisms for this increase are widely contested. Is it the innovation of better viticulture, more efficient

yeasts and technology in the winery? Is it the result of global warming? Is it due to a growing need in western culture for sweetness? Or is it simply a desire to let fruit hang longer and enjoy different qualities in the wines – a stylistic paradigm? “Yes”, says Peregrine winemaker Nadine Cross, “we’re trying to avoid high alcohols by getting flavour development at a lower brix level. Canopy management, season, vine age and vine health all impact this.” I asked Rudi Bauer, winemaker of Quartz Reef, if it’s possible to make elegant, feminine, lightmedium bodied, structural Pinots in Central Otago. His answer? “Yes”. He acknowledged that there is effort – particularly in the vineyard – to mitigating those higher alcohol levels. Winemakers unanimously agree that they pick on flavour, however in Central the

desired ripeness in the flavour profile usually comes at higher sugars, but there are some who are seeing results or making changes in their regimes. “We are now leaning more to acid as the key driver when we harvest”, says Bauer. Ted Lemon, winemaker for Burn Cottage, has strong views on the subject: “For us, balance is king. Burn Cottage has made a conscientious effort from day one to add no acid to our wines. Certainly that requires us to pick less ripe than many in Central. When you work with vines which are not subject to the distorting influence of synthetic fertilizers you find that the natural progression of vine senescence in the fall is a wonderful guide as to when to pick. When vine activity and leaf colour are sustained by chemicals, this is not as visible.” Claire Mulholland, winemaker

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contribute adversely to vine and wine balance? “There is no doubt that very low tonnage can produce wines which are not typical in Christopher Keys – style”, says Lemon. Gibbston Valley Wines. “They can even become freaks. Baland general manager for Burn Cot- ance and equilibrium in all things tage, adds “We’re aiming to learn is the key. That helps to explain from and reflect our site and the why we see some relatively large kind of wine that it wants to make production vintages produce in each vintage. We’re trying to not amazing, classic wines. So ideal impose a specific style or model tonnage can really only be deteron it.” mined on an individual vintage The viticulture is an obvious basis. The ideal in a challenging place to start. The romanticism of year could be 3t/ha, in a perfect incredibly low yields, close plant- season, maybe that number is 6t/ ings, new clones and fruit expo- ha.” sure may strike a chord with the Connell agrees, “The best nerd clergy, and render styles that tonnage is one in which the vines the masses are obliviously seek- show the best site characters in a ing out, but could these influences given season for a given wine style.

There is no set answer to this one. It’s driven by so many factors.” So, what can we expect as the vines age – what is the future outlook for Pinot Central? “The sub-regions I think will become more meaningful over my lifetime”, says Rees-Francis, “but centuries is the key word here. I feel the wines we make are products of climate (meso-, micro-) rather than terroir; only a handful of vines down here are old enough to start expressing terroir as their roots penetrate the earth and they find balance with their surroundings after the exuberance of youth. The next generation will start to make wines of the soil; I don’t pretend to.” Keys concludes: “This industry is young. We have to think of where it will be in 50 years. We are dealing with some youngish vineyards. There is no question to me that we see a differ-

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NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

ence in mature vine performance. Just as relevant a question would be, are we going to see greater critical appreciation of wines that are less big? I suspect, the more I like our more interesting, structural wines, the worse they will do in areas that have been used to reward them.” “If we don’t ask ourselves questions of place and sub-region, and simply say it’s too early or too hard, or that we are not ready to make sub-regional or vineyardspecific wines, then I think we miss out on learning the biggest lesson of Burgundy. The process is what provides the answer, and it’s a slowly evolving answer that takes many, many years. Don’t cower from it though, with blithering comments of self-deprecation. “I hope that our Pinot Noirs engage the drinker and inspire a response. In the end, style is site selection that is well expressed.”

The tenth anniversary of the Central Otago Pinot Noir Celebration will take place over three days, beginning in Queenstown on Thursday January 30 2014 and culminating with the Grand Dinner at the Skyline Restaurant on Saturday night, the of February 1 2014. Forty wineries from Central Otago will be represented, in an event that attracts Pinot enthusiasts from all over the world, to help celebrate the virtues of this great grape in a convivial, jovial atmosphere. Confirmed VIPs so far include Tyson Stelzer and Gary Walsh from Australia and Olly Smith and Jaime Goode from the UK. For registration and further details, visit the website – www.pinotcelebration.co.nz. ■

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REGIONS MARLBOROUGH

LAND RUSH IN MARLBOROUGH TESSA NICHOLSON

he yields of 2012 have resulted in some of the country’s major wine companies looking at increasing their portfolio in the Marlborough region. While many have increased their grower base, others have been actively seeking more vineyards. They include companies like Marisco, Foley Family Wine Company, Delegats, Mission Estate, Craggy Range and Saint Clair. And one of the major motivating factors is; the world’s love affair with Marlborough

Sauvignon Blanc. When yields dropped to such low levels last year, there was concern that wineries would not have enough supply to meet the market demand. All of a sudden, wineries began looking at ways of increasing their production. Long-term contracts were offered to growers, (a major turn around from the previous three years), and vineyards that had come onto the market were being snapped up. In a 10 month period last year, 20 vineyards sold – which was a massive jump from the handful

that had sold in the same period in 2009 and also 2010. The sales were mostly of producing land, rather than bare land for development, given the wineries wanted fruit now – not in three years time. And that rush for shoring up future supply hasn’t abated in the early part of 2013. Dave Stark, property valuer at Alexander Hayward Ltd in Marlborough, said there have been numerous sales in recent months – with a lot of the buyers being well established companies. “The bulk of the sales are

productive vineyards. There are a few companies that are purchasing bare land, but then they still have that time lag of having to wait for the fruit to come on stream. It is fair enough to say that some companies are shoring up their future potential supply chains and are probably going to be more reliant on their own vineyards rather than contract growers.” He said there are a few factors behind the sales of established vineyards – immediate fruit supply being of them. The other factors include vine availability

Large blocks of established vineyard are getting harder and harder to come by in Marlborough.

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NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

and the limited amount of suitable grape growing land left in the Marlborough region. “There is a limitation to expansion, especially in the recognised or established areas. If you think about Rapaura there are limited opportunities for people to develop the land. There is not a lot of infill stuff available. And then when you start to look outside the central plains the risk factors start to go up. Frost risk and in the Awatere, the lack of water is a limitation.” The Awatere is one sub-region that has expanded exponentially in the past decade. While there are still some very large tracts of land available, most would require substantial water storage facilities to provide the necessary irrigation. And even if you could find suitable bare land to develop – there is the issue of getting the

vines to plant. As mentioned in a story in NZ Winegrower earlier this year, (Issue 79) vine nurseries have been inundated with orders for vines for planting this year and through to 2015. There are substantial waiting lists for some varieties, especially Sauvignon Blanc. Riversun Nursery Managing Director, Geoff Thorpe, said at the time; “Post the crash, you couldn’t give away Sauvignon Blanc vines. That has now changed around to where this coming grafting season 65 – 70 % of our orders are for Sauvignon Blanc and there is going to be a shortage of vines.” Stark says the positivity being experienced in Marlborough through sales, is unique to this region. “We are not seeing anything like these sorts of sales in any other region in New Zealand. It is being led by Sauvignon Blanc.” ■ tessa.nicholson@me.com

WINE COMPANY PURCHASES IN PAST 12 MONTHS Marisco Vineyards – 2000ha Leefield property to develop and say they are keen to buy more established vineyards Delegat’s – 121ha established vineyard in Kaituna. 90ha of bare land in Awatere. Negotiating for another large bare block in Wairau Valley Saint Clair – 15ha on Wairau Plains and looking for more Babich – 65ha vineyard in Awatere Mission Estate – 100 ha vineyard in Awatere Craggy Range and Rothschilds – 26ha in Rapaura Foley Family Wine Group – The NZ Wine Company and vineyards – wanting to buy more A syndicate – 100 ha property in Awatere, most planted – and leasing to a wine company (one of a number of purchases by the same syndicate – all leased to the same wine company).

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new winery and cellar door will open in Gisborne this spring, as the owners of organic wine label Wrights Wine continue to expand their operations. Geoff and Nicola Wright recently bought the former Tivoli Vineyards in Manutuke and plan to have a cellar door and restaurant open by October, in time for the summer tourist season. With eight hectares planted out with Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah, the Wrights will commit to a rigorous threeyear process to get the vineyards

organic-certified. In recent years they have found it increasingly difficult to secure contract organic growers in the region, and had reached the point where they were buying more grapes than they were growing to meet the demand. Their organic vineyard at Ormond Valley already produces around 40 tonne a year, but with the expansion that figure will increase to around 100 tonnes. Another reason they were looking to expand was to safeguard against frosts, which the Ormond Valley vineyard is particularly sus-

Since 1985

ceptible to. Geoff Wright said now they could spread the risk between the cold climate, frost-free coastal growing in Manutuke and the unique micro-climate of Ormond Valley. “When we saw the property for sale, we knew it was an opportunity not to be missed. “We bought it mainly for the vineyard, but it has it all really. It’s in a great location that is very visible, and will be the first winery in Gisborne for those coming in from the South.” The couple have been explor-

ing a number of tourism opportunities the winery will provide, including hosting passengers of the historic steam train WA165 which travels right alongside the cellar door. They are also in discussions with cruise ship operators to bring tour groups to the winery. Mr Wright said he was excited to get the new venue off the ground. “It will mean more growing, winemaking from our end but we’re motivated and keen. We’re very excited about the expansion.” ■ christinejboyce@gmailcom

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EDUCATION NEWS

FLEXIBLE STUDY OPTIONS

elson Marlborough Institute of Technology (NMIT)’s online study options in viticulture and wine are opening up the industry to those who want a career change but aren’t able to commit to fulltime study. NMIT has been delivering viticulture and wine education from its Marlborough Campus since 1989. While the Marlborough region is at the forefront of the wine industry and NMIT’s on campus wine facilities in Blenheim are second to none, tutors are well aware that full-time, on campus study doesn’t work for everyone. “We know that many people have other commitments to contend with and need to be able to ‘earn while they learn’ – especially if they are mature students or have families,” says Jeff Wilson, the Programme Area Leader for Primary Industries. “So we now offer flexible delivery options for our Diploma in Viticulture and Wine Production. It’s a blended form of delivery which means that students study all of the material

online, however for some courses, they also travel to Marlborough to take part in residential practical workshops held over 2-3 days.” NMIT currently has students from around New Zealand and Australia completing the Diploma in Viticulture and Wine Production online. While the face-to-face programme takes two years of full-time study, students studying online generally complete it within four years. Graduates of the programme can take up roles such as supervisory or assistant managerial positions within the wine industry, cellar hand, laboratory technician, contractor, vineyard worker or continue onto further study with the Lincoln University Bachelor of Viticulture and Oenology. For Cameron Trott, the flexible study options of NMIT’s Diploma in Viticulture and Wine meant he was able to embark on a new career path. After 12 years working in the hospitality industry as a chef and manager, Cameron was looking for a career change and was interested in becoming a winemaker - but had

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NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

Flexible study options meant Cameron Trott has been able to embark on a career change.

to fit his studies around caring for his two young sons while his wife worked. “When I found out I could stay at home in Riwaka and study online through NMIT for the Diploma in Viticulture and Wine Production, it was very attractive. In fact, I wouldn’t have been able to do it any other way,” he says. After two years of part-time study, Cameron landed a full-time job at Woollaston Winery in Mahana as a cellar hand which he now juggles with studying. He says the flexibil-

ity of the NMIT programme meant he was able to change his life. “It’s a really great system because you can move in any direction without having to move away from your home to study or re-train.” NMIT is proud to support the 2013 Romeo Bragato in Marlborough. Viticulture and Wine students will act as stewards for the judging competition and the Business Administration students will help the conference organisers with administrative tasks. ■

INDUSTRY NEWS

 Soils Dominated By Beneficial  Organisms Contain Less Pathogens       ®    

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new fungicide for the control of botrytis and powdery mildew in grapes has been released. HML32 builds on the performance of ProtectorHML with its benefits being uncovered during a disease study in Hawke’s Bay in the 2010/11 season.

consultants have all assisted in the research. Chris acknowledges that the wide ranging grower contribution has been particularly important. “The trials have allowed us to identify the strengths and weaknesses of HML32 in a controlled way. Much has been learnt of

“The trials have allowed us to identify the strengths and weaknesses of HML32 in a controlled way. Much has been learnt of the close relationship that exists between powdery mildew infection and botrytis control.” Spokesperson Chris Henry says it was the perfect season to trial, as it was challenging and botrytis outbreaks were common. HML32 is a pre formulation of ProtectorHML and potassium bicarbonate and when sprayed on fruit during this challenging season, it showed treated fruit was able to withstand prolonged and multiple severe botrytis infection periods with nil/minimal disease when compared with those not sprayed, or those conventionally sprayed in adjacent rows. Since then, complex hand sprayed studies have been undertaken as well as a total of 52 grower machine sprayed comparison trials to bring HML32 ready for commercial release. The trials ranged from Auckland through to Central Otago in most commercial varieties.” Plant and Food Research, Massey University, Cawthron Institute, Tech NZ and independent

the close relationship that exists between powdery mildew infection and botrytis control, to the effects of rates, formulation, water rates, timing and areas of risk.” Chris is encouraging growers to target some areas of low to medium risk to get some economic benefit whilst gaining an understanding of how best to integrate HML32 for disease management within their vineyard. He is not advocating using HML32 in areas of highest botrytis risk this season. “The reason for this is that while we think we have made a good transition from hand spraying to machine spraying, the 2012/13 season did not expose HML32 to sufficient disease pressure to robustly test the changes made from the 2011/2012 season.” Reports on the trials (including sensory analysis) and technical data are available to download on www.henrymanufacturing.co.nz. ■

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RESEARCH NEWS

USING MOBILE DNA TO INCREASE GRAPEVINE DIVERSITY Darrell Lizamore

Supervisors: Dr. Chris Winefield & Prof. Brian Jordan

fter a visit to the Sancerre region of France in 2008, New Zealandbased viticulturists Rod Bonfiglioli & Nick Hoskins commented on the advantages that continuous evaluation of new clonal material provides to

the French wine industry. They also pointed out the noticeable absence of such strategies in New Zealand. As in France, our local wine industry needs to find ways to develop and differentiate wine styles in order to assure its longterm future. Although viticultur-

Darrell Lizamore

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NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

ists and wine makers will continue to innovate, new grapevine material must be introduced if the industry is to maintain its global reputation for high quality wines.

Genetic variability within plants The national wine industries, particularly within New World countries, have historically used varietal identity in marketing, as a signal of wine style and quality. As a result, inter-varietal crosses have little appeal; such wines would suffer in the current marketplace without the label recognition of premium varieties. And paradoxically, crosses between clones of the same variety do not produce progeny that are more true-to-type. Two characteristics of grapevines, namely their high level of heterozygosity (plants have multiple versions of most genes) and chimerism (two parts of a single plant can be genetically different), combine to produce an astonishing degree of variation in the sexual progeny. Seeds from crosses between clones produce plants that differ greatly, most of which neither resemble the original variety, nor are of particular economic value. The Bonfiglioli & Hoskins report draws attention to a history of successful variety improve-

ment in the form of novel clones derived from shoots carrying DNA mutations. These ‘bud sports’ may appear different – a branch bearing larger fruit, for example - or be morphologically indistinguishable from the host plant. Where identified, bud sports can be collected and propagated by shoot cuttings. With very few exceptions, clones used by the wine industry have this origin, which speaks to the value of this type of genetic change. Unfortunately, the rates of bud sport mutation appear to be low and important mutations that result in non-visible changes escape unnoticed.

Transposons – mutations in response to stress A major cause of mutations within plants is the activity of mobile DNA sequences known as transposons. Similar to retroviruses, these DNA sequences carry genes that drive their own replication. New copies are then re-inserted at random locations into the host DNA. Their insertion can change the function of nearby genes, by either disrupting their sequence code or altering the conditions under which they are expressed. Most of the time random genetic change is deleterious, and as a result both

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ing. Moreover, ancient transposon insertions have a recognised capacity to become domesticated, such that their regulation of nearby genes is adopted by the host species. The microorganisms used in this study are indigenous to different winegrowing regions in New Zealand, and it is therefore plausible that they form part of the ‘terroir’ of these regions – a term broadly used to describe the effect of vineyard location on a wine’s flavour profile. Figure 1. Relative change in transposon expression following biotic and abiotic stresses.

plants and animals have developed highly efficient systems to suppress transposon activity under normal conditions. However, the plant’s restrictions on transposon activity are lifted in response to environmental stress, allowing genetic changes to occur. DNA sequencing has shown that transposons are the cause

of most inter-clonal diversity in grapevine. I therefore selected four transposon types that appear to have been recently active in the grapevine genome. After exposing grapevine tissue to a series of stresses, I measured the expression levels of these transposons. Abiotic stresses, such as temperature shock, appear to moderately

increase transposon expression. However, following exposure of the tissue to microorganisms that are naturally present on grapevines, transposon expression drastically increased (Figure 1). The potential for microorganisms that live in symbiosis with grapevine to alter the host genome is particularly interest-

Transposon display – Fingerprinting the grape genome Transposon sequences comprise approximately 41% of the grapevine genome. A high background of ancient transposons therefore complicates the problem of identifying new insertions. In order to distinguish the new from the old, we developed a

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method that involves tagging all transposons of the same type with a fluorescent dye. Fragmented plant DNA is then sorted according to size using a capillary DNA sequencer. Fragments that contain transposons are visible by their fluorescence; those that do not are hidden. The result is a barcode-like pattern showing transposons of a particular type, arranged according their position within the vine’s DNA. Comparison of the transposon display profiles of different vines shows that while most transposon insertions are common, some are are cultivar or clone-specific, indicating recent insertions of the tagged transposon type in these lineages. The applications of the transposon display technique are already apparent. Grapevine varieties, and even specific clones, can be distinguished by differences in the pattern. We are currently

working with a local nursery to develop a genetic test for specific clone types, based on this technique.

Activating transposons

with environmental stress In order to test the effect that transposon activation has on the grapevine genome, I exposed

Pinot Noir and Chardonnay embryos cultures to the same series of environmental shocks. After the treatments, the embryos were allowed to germinate and

DOUBLE ACCOLADE FOR RESEARCHER THE funding for Darrell’s research came from NZWinegrowers via the Rod Bonfiglioni scholarship. Worth up to $120,000 over three years the scholarship was awarded in memory of Dr Rod Bongiflioni back in 2011. Remembered as a passionate researcher in the field of vine health and developing methods to eliminate vine disease, Rod worked alongside NZWinegrowers for a decade. His input into preventing the spread of Grapevine Leafroll associated Virus type 3, is still being felt in research fields throughout New Zealand, four years after his death. Darrell Lizamore’s research was made

possible due to the scholarship, but it is not the only accolade the PhD student has achieved. He was also the recipient of the David Jackson Prize for grape growing and wine related research at Lincoln University earlier this year. The annual prize is in memory of Dr David Jackson who played an integral role in the establishment of grape growing in the South Island. He also played a pivotal role in establishing Lincoln University’s postgraduate diploma course in wine science and viticulture which began back in 1989.

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013 // 93

grow into plantlets. Approximately two hundred plantlets have been regenerated from the shocked embryos. Despite having the same parental source tissue, the regenerated plants show a variety of fixed and transient morphological and developmental abnormalities (Figure. 2), indicating that the treatment has had an impact on the genetic information of the plants. Using the transposon display method, I compared the transposon insertion profiles of the regenerated plants. In many of the samples, variations are evident in the insertion pattern, indicating that the increase in transposon expression following a stress event ultimately produces new insertions in the DNA.

Current and future goals This work has formed the basis of a new project in which we aim to

Figure 2. A: Vines regenerated from the same grapevine tissue showing different morphologies. Note the differences in internode length. The plant on the far right has a normal appearance for comparison.

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produce large populations of Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc vines carrying new transposon insertions. In addition, we are currently adapting the transposon display protocol to take advantage of nextgeneration sequencing technologies, which have the capacity to determine sequence data for millions of transposon insertion

sites per experiment. We will then associate mapped genetic changes with alterations in specific traits as a basis for studying gene function. A large collection of vines propagated this way, with new transposon insertions linked to genes of known function, would provide an internationally significant resource of new genetic diversity

for Vitis. Vines with desirable traits could then be selected for clone development, ultimately fulfilling the need identified by Bonfiglioli & Hoskins in 2008. These results have wider implications for plant biology and agricultural science. The long generational times and high heterozygosity of perennial woody

crops (such as pip fruit, stone fruit, and forestry crop species) are obstacles to crop improvement by traditional plant breeding. As a result, our approach has generated considerable interest and is currently being applied to kiwifruit to increase genetic diversity within this important crop. Recent discussions with collaborators at the University of Canterbury have also indicated further interest from the local forestry industry. ■

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VINTAGE PICS

THE BEST OF VINANTICS Hundreds of images from all over the country poured in to Vinantics, creating a photographic scrapbook of Vintage 2013. From beards, to mohawkes, captivating scenery to the hard yakka within the winery, Vinantics covered it all. Organised by Heather Battersby of winejobsonline, the competition created a nice diversion for many during the condensed harvest. While it may seem like a long time ago, this issue we look back to our latest (and best?) vintage, highlighting the winners and some of the also rans. Face-Off Beard Growing Competition Matt Connell, winemaker, Akarua Central Otago. Here’s what the judges had to say about the winning entry: Colour

Darker around the edges, light in the middle, many hued

Clarity

We liked the blend

Nose Impressive Bouquet and Aroma

Not easily discernible, hopefully pleasing

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Fullish in the middle, a little lighter at the sides. Tended with care and finesse

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Longevity Probably only a few weeks in Autumn Overall

Well balanced, Stylish, great appeal

Mascot/Tradition Winner: The Blenheim Beaver He was a delightful addition to VinAntics, epitomised the fun and togetherness of the industry, a little “taking the mickey” but full of real good fun and camaraderie, and some mystery. Soon had his own Facebook page, 150 friends, great interaction – and a sneaky support crew (who DID take all those photos, Beaver?). A winner!

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NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

Pic of the Crop A tough well contested category, there were some awesome photographs shared on Facebook showing some larrikins as well as the beauty of our New Zealand wine world. Winner: Nick Paulin, Peregrine Wines, Central Otago, uploaded an amazing photograph that to us just epitomised Autumn harvest in New Zealand. A clear blue sky, some beautiful ripe grapes, a little mist, and snow on a range of mountains. What was not to love about that, it just screamed New Zealand.

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CLONAL NEWS

CHARDONNAY CLONE HITS HIGH NOTES The Anything-But-Chardonnay mantra has evaporated in the heat wave of new enthusiasm for Burgundy’s great white grape - and the arrival of Clone 548 Chardonnay, reports Joelle Thomson.

hardonnay is hitting new high notes in the vineyard as well as in the wine glass. And the arrival of Chardonnay clone 548 in the past six years has certainly helped. The clone came into New Zealand in 2003, via the French nursery, ENTAV/INRA, which has a 25 year exclusive relationship in New Zealand with Riversun Nursery in Gisborne. Nursery general manager and founder Geoff Thorpe says there are now 70 vineyards in which the relatively loose-

bunched, medium-sized Chardonnay clone 548 is planted; 36 of them are wineries with the vines in their own vineyards. Open bunches with thick skins make it less susceptible to botrytis, plus it is known for being flavor intense. The bunches tend to be medium sized, which is what attracted Delegat chief winemaker Michael Ivicevich. That and the fact he had tried and liked wines made from Chardonnay clone 548 in California at Carneros before. Four vintages down the track,

Ivicevich says he enjoys the fruitforward flavours it contributes to Oyster Bay Chardonnay; a wine in which fruit flavours are the hero. “Its bunches are a good size but not particularly large, so we can get the flavours we want without compromising yields,” says Ivicevich. “It’s a double edged sword, the yield thing. We don’t want to go too low or too high either, so a good normal yield is what we look for and 548 is very consistent – and also more resistant to botrytis

because the bunches are more open than our other clones. We have zero tolerance where disease is concerned and we don’t want to have to go back and do multiple passes in the vineyard for a wine like this because that costs a lot of money and it’s a big job. We really want to try and get it right the first time,” says Ivicevich.

How Chardonnay Clone 548 was discovered Viticulturists Geoff Thorpe and Nick Hoskins from Riversun Nurseries in Gisborne first encountered Chardonnay clone 548 when visiting properties in France in the early 2000s. They were impressed by its flavour intensity, smaller bunches and berries than clone 95 and health on the vine. “It had naturally lower productivity without fruit thinning,” says Hoskins. Thorpe imported it into the nursery’s quarantine facility for the first time in 2003. It was released from quarantine in 2005 and put through rapid multiplication. Only three mother vines came out at the end of quarantine, so he had his work cut out and it took two years before the nursery had its first grafted vines in 2007.

Demand outstrips supply until 2015

Clone 548 Chardonnay.

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NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

The annual production of any new clone at Riversun is limited by the fact that all of the nursery’s licensed imports can

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IT’S ALL ABOUT CHARDONNAY A one-day workshop on the beauties of this varietal will take place in Blenheim, the day before the Romeo Bragato Conference. Organised by the NZSVO, the workshop ABC – It’s All About Chardonnay will cover all angles from the viticultural side to the winemaking. Nick Sage from NZSVO says the reason for choosing this varietal, is because of its re-emergence as a favourite by consumers. “The focus will be; where we have come from, where we are now and where will be in the future. We wish to look back and retain what is still relevant as we move forward.” The keynote speaker is Brian Crosser from Australia. “He has extensive experience in Australia and in Oregon,” Sage says. The workshop will start off with Tony Bish presenting his observations on Chardonnay in the international market place and where he thinks New Zealand winemakers should be going with the variety. In terms of winemaking, Warren Gibson from Trinity Hill and Nick Picone from Villa Maria will join Brian Crosser, to look at current and future practices and regional differences. The Chardonnay workshop is being held at Marlborough Vintners Hotel on August 27. Registrations are available by visiting; www.nzsvo.org.nz

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NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

only be propagated with budwood harvested from its source block at Waihuka in Gisborne. Here, the vines are planted on their own roots. They have what Thorpe describes as “absolute traceability back to the mother vines in the country of origin”. This means there is no chance of contamination by any of the 30-plus known viruses known in New Zealand vineyards. “As a new import, clone 548 has come into very strong demand and because it takes a few years for us to build up our volumes of budwood available for grafting, we are now taking orders for delivery in 2015. We are sold out until then,” says Thorpe. “Anyone trying to shortcut the system by trying to source or graft budwood from any of the commercial vineyard plantings of clone 548 would be breaching the legally binding non-propagation

agreements signed by every client who has ever received new import material from Riversun. Under our agreement with ENTAV, we are required to assist them in the prosecution of any such breaches,” Thorpe adds. Thorpe says that there has been significant demand from all over this country for alternatives to the Chardonnay Mendoza clone, due to its erratic production issues. The same goes for clone 15, which has a lot of hen and chicken berries and is liked by some, though not others. “Clone 95 came along and it makes very good wine but it’s got issues because the bunches are so big and well set that it had problems with botrytis, so people have been looking for something else to produce their upper end Chardonnays from.” ■ jthomson@xtra.co.nz

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NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013 // 103

REGIONS NELSON

ADDING COMPLEXITY NATURALLY TO SAUVIGNON BLANC NEIL HODGSON

here is absolutely no doubt that Sauvignon Blanc is New Zealand wine’s single most important variety. From the time it launched New Zealand wines into the international spotlight in the late 1980’s and early 1990’s it has become the backbone every other variety hangs off. While the intensely aromatic and zingy Sauvignon Blancs of Marlborough have continued to wow international media and consumers for more than 25 years, this variety is certainly not a onetrick-pony. It has distinct regional and sub-regional characteristics and is a variety winemakers can play with, adding layers of complexity without compromising the distinctly New Zealand base flavour profile. The Wairau Plains, Wairau Valley and Awatere area all deliver distinct flavours that are instantly recognisable as ‘Marlbor-

ough’ while different climate and soil types are exhibited in the variety in other regions. Producers like Hans Herzog and Clos Henri bring European expertise, knowledge and style to apply to New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc fruit, while producers in other regions take the flavours expressed in their vineyards and turn the grapes into wines that reflect their region and style. One young winemaker putting his stamp on the winemaking scene in Nelson, is Shane Munn from Woollaston Estates. In recent years the Mahana vineyards have

Sauvignon Blanc fermenting on its skins.

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Shane Munn

been converted to organic, something that suits Munn perfectly. He cut his winemaking teeth at Esk Valley Estate in the early 2000s before spending the 2004 Northern Hemisphere vintage in Ontario Canada as assistant winemaker. He then spent an inspirational stage at respected Barolo producer G.D Vajra before spending six years at New Zealand’s first organic certified producers, Millton Vineyards, in Gisborne Munn says Nelson is a great place to produce wines naturally, without having to manipulate the raw product. For example with all their wines they strive not to add yeast, enzymes or acid and for the vast majority of wines produced at Woollaston Estates they achieve this by managing the vines to extract as much as they can from the natural environment. Rather than attaching a label to the way they make wines by calling them ‘Bio-Dynamic Wines’ or ‘Natural Wines’ Munn says the wines are made naturally. The attitude at Woollaston is to grow grapes and make wines that have integrity. He says he and everyone at Woollaston are inspired by organic and biodynamics, but at the end of the day he loves drinking interesting wines, wines that are alive and delicious, and have complexity and balance. Munn refers to Cru Beaujolais as one of his favourites styles. He references benchmark producers such as Lapierre, Thévenet & Foillard as the forebearers of

natural winemaking in France and their wines can stand happily beside great Pinot Noirs. Many of these wines are made using whole cluster fermentation, with little or no additions and rather than being just fruity they have beautiful detailed structure and fine balance. Using this technique at Woollaston Estates for the 2013 vintage he has fermented some five tonne of Sauvignon Blanc on skins for 12 days, with a couple of one tonne barrel ferments soaking for up to 70 days with no additions, to add a structural component in the final blend. The fruit soaked for 70 days is likely to end up in their limited, terroir-expressive Mahana Sauvignon Blanc. Munn says that doing this has added a tannin complexity and savoury elements not traditionally observed in white wine, that enhances the typically fresh flavours. Just as important was the vineyard management where in 2013 they exposed more fruit in the canopy to help develop floral fruit flavours, while the naturally high acidity of the fruit has brought everything into balance. He stresses the Woollaston 2013 Sauvignon Blanc doesn’t taste like some quirky new variety, it is still classically true in profile and he has just used unique winemaking techniques to create a wine that expresses the vineyard. Munn spends many hours in the vineyard with viticulturist Julian Coakley and Coakley has started spending more time in the winery tasting wines and learning about the flavour and structure profiles of the fruit he is growing. Munn says this means they are both have the same focus. He’s excited about the characters and flavours their vineyards deliver to other varieties, in particular Riesling and Pinot Noir. ■ neil@hodgson.net.nz

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HR AND THE WINE INDUSTRY PADDY BATTERSBY

HEALTH AND SAFETY T

he tragedy of the Pike River Coal Mine explosion resulted in the establishment of a Royal Commission to investigate what happened. An independent Taskforce was also appointed to review New Zealand workplace health and Safety. The Commission made several recommendations (16) around the management of Health and Safety in New Zealand workplaces. Whilst many of them had a strong mining focus, several were general and will apply to all employers - it is expected that they will be adopted into law, and the future of workplace health and safety will change dramatically within the next 12 months. The Taskforce found, basically, that New Zealand workplace Health and Safety was “not fit for purpose” – a major overhaul is on its way. A new stand alone agency, WorkSafe New Zealand, will be formed to have a dedicated focus on health and safety, committed to ensuring people are well protected from injury and death when they go to work each day, and in force in December this year. Increased responsibility for Directors of companies in managing Health and Safety risks, and, increased worker participation will be required. It should be remembered that

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employers have had responsibility for providing a safe workplace for their employees and contractors for some time, under the Health and Safety in Employment Act of 1992, and subsequent amendments. The Act applies to all places of work and work activities and places legal duties and obligations on five separate categories of people: • Employers • Employees • Self-employed persons • Principals • Persons who control places of work. Everyone involved in work activities has some responsibilities under the Act which they can not give to other people. The Act aims to get companies to manage health and safety effectively and to do this requires the commitment of everyone in the workplace. It is important to note that individuals may have several roles under the Act simultaneously. For instance, when a company engages a contractor and pays them to carry out work for them, the company is a principal and needs to take steps to ensure that contractors (and their employees) are not harmed. Amongst other things, changes are coming for Directors of com-

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

panies to ensure that they have more responsibility for the health and safety of people working in the businesses in which they have an involvement. A good governance practices guideline has been prepared by the Ministry of Business, Innovation & Employment, and the Institute of Directors. Whilst these are recommended to be adopted by companies with 20 employees or more, it is also suggested that they can apply, at varying levels, to smaller organisations, adapting them as appropriate. The guideline is neither a policy statement nor a statutory document – ie the guidelines are voluntary but recommended. “The board and directors are best placed to ensure that the company effectively manages health and safety. They should provide the necessary leadership and are responsible for the major decisions that must influence health and safety: the strategic direction, securing and allocating resources and ensuring the company has appropriate people, systems and equipment.”

Royal Commission on the Pike River Coal Mine Tragedy The purpose of the Guideline is to provide advice on health and safety governance and to: • Demonstrate how directors can

influence health and safety performance • Provide a framework for how directors can lead, plan, review and improve health and safety • Assist them to identify whether their health and safety management systems are of a standard and quality that is effective in minimising risk • Encourage directors to create strong, objective lines of reporting and communication to and from the board. There are 3 essential principles of Health and safety governance: Leadership, Worker Participation and Legislative Compliance; and 4 key elements in the role of Directors: Policy and Planning, Deliver, Monitor and Review. “Merely having a good system will not achieve good health and safety. Systems need to be implemented with rigor and consistency. Directors should hold management to account for effective implementation.” It is therefore timely for all employers to review their health and safety procedures and the system that manages those processes. In most cases, upgrades and a more rigorous approach to health and safety is urgently required. ■ paddy@battersbyhr.com

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WINE AWARDS

GISBORNE WINE AWARDS C H R I S T I N E B OYC E

Villa Maria wine continued a winning streak to receive its third consecutive supreme title in the recent Gisborne Regional Wine Awards. Chair of Judges for the event, Tony Bish, said the 2012 Reserve Barrique Fermented Chardonnay showed an overall sense of exceptional quality. “It’s no accident, this wine is aimed at being a super-premium from bud-burst to bottling. It is targeted in the vineyard to maximise fruit quality, through to careful handling in the winery to make a high-end Gisborne Chardonnay.

“There is strong attention to detail, good use of oak and incredible winemaking techniques to produce a wine that has concentration, power and balance.” The award-winning wine is made up of grapes from the Katoa Vineyard in Manuktuke, the Ledger in Patutahi and McDiarmid Hill vineyards. The grapes are hand-picked under the leadership of Villa Maria viticulturalist Tony Green, before being sent off to senior winemaker Nick Picone in Auckland. Winemaker Steve Voysey of Spade Oak Vineyards was another big winner of the night, receiving

Villa Maria Estate head viticulturalist Tony Green is presented with the Gisborne Regional Wine Awards supreme award by GisVin managing director Rob Godwin. PICTURE BY STEPHEN JONES PHOTOGRAPHY

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NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

the Bill Irwin Trophy, while Gisborne Garagiste Wine Company took out the best value wine under $15 trophy for their 2012 Gewürztraminer. Tony Bish said following a difficult vintage last year, it wasn’t surprising the overall entry number was down in the competition. “But we know the wineries all have fantastic wines on board for vintage 2013. “Those of us who are lucky enough to be asked back will have some great wines to judge. The region puts on a wonderful show and it is one we all look forward to being a part of.”

Regional wine awards had an important role to play and he encouraged more wineries to enter. “I think it’s positive for the region to be judged in peer groups so you’re comparing apples with apples. “It has merit in terms of encouraging excellence and making sure individual wineries aren’t getting too insular. It helps with innovation and is also a great feedback mechanism for the vineyard – those who have done well can get up on stage and share some of the limelight for their hard work.” ■ christinejboyce@gmailcom

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CANTERBURY WINE AWARDS

ollowing its successful launch last year, the second Canterbury Wine Awards was judged in April, with the results released in May. The competition is unique in New Zealand, in currently being the only show to judge its entries alongside food, which the organisers consider aligns more closely with the way wine is consumed. The Terrace Edge Waipara Valley Syrah 2011 took the Trophy for best wine in show after coming top in the Game class. The other class Trophy winners were Greystone Gewürztraminer 2012 in the Cheese category; Marble Point Sauvignon Blanc 2012 in Seafood; Greystone Sauvignon Blanc 2012 in Asian; Marble Point Pinot Noir 2011 in Lamb and Waipara Hills Equinox Chardonnay 2012 in Chicken. Of the wines entered, 46 medals were awarded across the six categories. 73% of the wines entered earned medals. “We had a fantastic response from wineries, with entries coming from Waimate in the south to Spotswood, near Cheviot in the north,” said Wines of Canterbury President, Dr Neil Pattinson. “This year the judging was done with all the reference dishes at hand ensuring that for each class we had the best wine and food match.” This year the judges were again, wine writer Jo Burzynska; Kirsten Creasy, winemaker and oenologist at Hill Laboratories; and Simon Sheehan, Executive Chef at the ASB Showgrounds. “Choosing the right class to enter your wine into, was critical as this show is about the food and wine match,” commented Creasy of this year’s judging. “One of the most interesting aspects of the competition was seeing which wines worked the best with food, and these weren’t always the most obvious choices or the most stand out wines in the line up.” The awards were presented at the David Jackson Dinner at the Canterbury Club in Christchurch on 24th May. ■

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NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013 // 109

NOT ON THE LABEL LEGAL MATTERS WITH MARIJA BATISICH SENIOR ASSOCIATE – BELL GULLY

SALE AND SUPPLY OF ALCOHOL REFORMS Restrictions include cellar door sales

he Sale and Supply of Alcohol Act 2012 (the Act) came into force late last year. This Act has made some significant changes for wineries in relation to underage drinking, promotion of alcohol and one-off events.

Underage Drinking The Act retains the legal age to purchase alcohol at 18 years. For those under this age, the new legislation takes a more restrictive approach to the service of alcohol to minors. Minors may still be supplied alcohol when accompanied by their parents however this is now limited to situations where it is believed on reasonable grounds that the winery has the express consent of the parent or guardian of the minor, and supplies the alcohol in a “responsible manner”. In determining whether alcohol was supplied in a responsible manner factors such as the steps taken to supervise the consumption of the alcohol, whether food was provided with the alcohol, whether low-alcohol or non-alcoholic beverages were offered, the nature of the occasion, arrangements for safe transport, the period over which alcohol was supplied, the

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strength of the alcohol and the age of the minor will all be considered. Wineries accordingly need to ensure that any alcohol supplied to minors, even with express parental permission, is supplied in accordance with these guidelines. In providing alcohol to minors, wineries also need to be aware of whether the area is a restricted or supervised area under the relevant liquor licence. This remains unchanged from the previous legislation so that a minor is unable to enter a restricted area, even while supervised however may consume alcohol in a supervised area provided they are accompanied by a parent.

Promotion of Alcohol The Act has bought about significant changes in relation to the promotion of alcohol. Advertisements may not promote alcohol in a manner aimed at, or likely to have special appeal to, minors. Alcohol also cannot now be promoted or advertised off the premises if the advertisement leads people to believe that the price is 25% or more below the price at which the alcohol is ordinarily sold. On premises advertisements

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

for such discounts are also restricted where the promotion can be seen or heard from outside the premises. As such, discounting offers need to be reviewed to ensure compliance with this requirement and some commonly used promotions, such as two for one deals, are now unacceptable in some circumstances. These restrictions also apply to advertising of alcohol that is free of charge, however the Act does include an exception for complementary sampling on premises holding an off-licence where the sample is consumed on the premises. This provides for free wine sampling on wine tours and in promoting the wine on site. Offers made outside licensed premises for any goods or services, or the opportunity to win a prize, on the condition that alcohol is bought are now also not permitted, however this does not apply to loyalty programmes that provide rewards or discounts, unless those rewards or discounts apply only or primarily to alcohol. Many loyalty schemes are accordingly now banned and advice should be sought before using such deals.

One-off Events Wineries are still required to

obtain a special licence for one-off events. The new Act now however provides for two different types of special licences: on-site special licences and off-site special licences. On-site special licences allow the licensee to sell or supply alcohol for consumption on the premises to people attending the event described in the licence. These licences would be obtained for events taking place at the vineyard itself. Off-site special licences allow the licensee to sell the licensee’s alcohol, for consumption somewhere else, to people attending the specified event. An example of a situation in which an off-site special licence would be obtained is where a particular wine tour, outside the scope of one’s usual operating licence, was taking place and participants purchased alcohol to take away with them. Holders of off-site special licences may also supply free samples of alcohol for consumption on the premises. If you would like further information or advice regarding any of the above issues, or other matters relating to the Sale and Supply of Alcohol Act 2012, please contact Marija Batistich at Bell Gully on (09) 916 8809. ■

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EDUCATION NEWS

SCHOLARSHIP WINNERS T

he first Constellation Brands scholarships have been announced with four young students from Hawke’s Bay, Marlborough, Nelson and Christchurch being the recipients. The scholarships announced by Consteallation Brands earlier this year, provide financial assistance to the students, who are interested in developing a career in the industry. In Hakwe’s Bay, 19-year-old Anton Luiton who is studying at EIT has received $5000 towards

his academic career. It will allow him to complete his Bachelor of Viticulture and Bachelor of Wine Science concurrent degree and consider postgraduate study. On top of the funding Constellation will employ him for a minimum of 60 days during his study breaks. “To be offered the work experience is at least as important to me as winning the grant,” Anton says. “I have a special interest in viticulture. The scientific aspect fascinates me and has become one of the most enjoyable aspects of

my learning. The practical side of viticulture also suits me perfectly. I love the rewards of hard work, the outdoors, working with the land and vine, and working with a team. Two NMIT students have each received $2500 towards their studies. Renne Sturch began her Diploma in Viticulture and Winemaking in Blenheim, last year after 15 years of travelling. With a degree in journalism already, she says a bottle of Marlborough Sauvignon led her to her new career choice. “I was living in Brighton, it was

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a beautiful day and I went up to the bar and bought a bottle of Marlborough Savuignon Blanc. As soon as I had my first mouthful I knew what I wanted to do.” Sturch says the Constellation Brand’s scholarship shows the faith the company has placed in New Zealand wine. “It is a real investment in the future and shows the belief the company has in the quality and productivity of the people.” Shanell Kelly – who is undertaking a Bachelor of Commerce Degree at NMIT in Nelson, major-

Lexi O’Brien Anton Luiton

Shanell Kelly Renee Sturch

ing in Accounting and Management is another scholarship recipient. She also received $2500, which will assist her in her last year of study. She says the fact that Consteallation Brands are recognising business alongside winemaking and viticulture, is fantastic. Lexi O’Brien, is a second year Bachelor of Viticulture and Oenology at Lincoln University. She will receive $5000 towards funding her studies. Constellation Brands Chief Executive Joe Stanton says the scholarships are intended to add value to the New Zealand wine

industry by supporting students interested in developing a career in viticulture. In addition to the external scholarships awarded, Constellation also awarded five scholarships to family members of employees. Valued at $1,000 each, they were implemented to support tertiary level education for any course of study. The company has two intentions with these scholarships; to encourage further education and to assist with alleviating financial impacts of this study on company employees. ■

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013 // 113

INDUSTRY NEWS

FINDING USES FOR GRAPE MARC TESSA NICHOLSON

new company has been formed in Marlborough to deal with the 40,000 plus tonnes of grape marc produced in the region each year. The by-product of vintage, grape marc is comprised of approximately 8% seeds, 10% stems, 25% skins and 57% pulp. Given the substantial amount produced in Marlborough every year, the issue of what do to with it has been an on-going one. Many wineries return the marc straight back

into the vineyard. Others transport it off site for stock feed. For those that have no way of reusing it, there is the option of dumping it at landfills – which is expensive and not a Marlborough District Council preference. Hence the formation of Grape Marc Ltd, an entity established by eight of the region’s largest producers. They are looking for ways of reusing the marc that not only benefits the industry overall, but ensures there are no environmen-

tal issues in the future. Eric Hughes, Pernod Ricard New Zealand winery manager says as the industry continues to grow, the level of marc increases. While initially using it as stock food was a viable option, there is now far too much being produced and not enough stock locally to absorb the quantity. And straight marc compost may not be the best alternative. “The composting we are doing at the moment, in a lot of cases, is

not the best, because it is just a pile on the paddock, doing its thing. To make good compost it needs to be turned regularly and have good green waste added. So in the future it may be about getting into bed with the right industry partners. There are a lot of by products that could maybe help us make a unique Marlborough compost.” One of the biggest issues though, is the time frame in which marc is produced – literally only six weeks of every year.

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“We have to consider how we manage that to keep it a good viable product,” Eric says. One of the highlights of the initiative, he says, is the industry is taking responsibility for its waste products. “It’s easy to bring things in the front gate and hope someone else is going to deal with your problem when it goes out the back gate. It’s becoming harder and harder and more costly to get rid of this material – so we are taking the proactive route.” Grape Marc Ltd is working alongside the Food and Beverage Cluster, which in turn is working with the Marlborough Research Centre and Riddet Institute to extract maximum value from the region’s produce, including by-products of that produce. Part of the brief for the company’s working group is to determine if there are other

uses for the marc, besides compost. New Zealand Extracts in Marlborough are already utilising grape seeds to produce antioxidant products – and there could well be other uses not yet considered. “Obviously as we get that up and running and we have a resource, we will deal with what

other value adds we can do. That is why we have talked with the Food and Beverage Cluster, so we can utilise their expertise.” Interest has been intense since the company became public last month, and it’s not just from wineries. A number of overseas firms have made contact, along

with many of the companies who already handle marc. The eight wineries who have already signed up to Grape Marc Ltd include; Pernod Ricard, Constellation, New Zealand Wineries, Giesen Wines, VinLink Marlborough, Indevin, Spring Creek Vintners and Mt Riley. ■ tessa.nicholson@me.com

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NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013 // 115

WHERE

EVENT

ATTENDANCE

AUDIENCE

Three Wine Men (Harrogate)

NZW

T, M, C

September 28 & 29

Europe

Self Pour Tastng (Stockholm)

NZW

T, M

October, TBC

Europe

Self Pour Tasting (Amsterdam)

NZW

T, M

October, TBC

Europe

Self Pour Tasting (Hamburg)

NZW

T, M

October, TBC

New Release Trade Tasting (London)

NZW

T, M C

November 5

Wine Gang (London)

NZW

T, M, C

November 9

Three Wine Men (Manchester)

NZW

T, M, C

November 23 & 24

Three Wine Men (London)

NZW

T, M, C,

December 7 & 8

Annual Trade and Consumer Tasting (London)

W, A, NZW

T, M, C

January 21, 2014

Ireland

Annual Trade and Consumer Tasting (Dublin)

W, A, NZW

T, M, C

January 23, 2014

W=Winery A=Agent NZW=NZ Winegrowers

M=Media T=Trade C=Consumer

EVENT DATE 2013

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CALENDAR AUGUST

OCTOBER

21:

6 Nations Wine Challenge Judging

Six Nations Wine Challenge Presentation and Trophy dinner

Sydney

27:

NOVEMBER

NZSVO Workshop, ABC It’s All About Chardonnay Marlborough Vintners Hotel, Blenheim. Details at www.nzsvo.org.nz

28 – 29 Moore Stephens Markham’s National Young Viticulturist of the Year Blenheim

28 – 30: Romeo Bragato Conference Convention Centre, Blenheim

29: Romeo Bragato Wine Awards Dinner Blenheim

SEPTEMBER

1 – 3: Marlborough Wine weekend

1-10: Hawke’s Bay Fine Wine and Food Classic – Summer Series Hawke’s Bay. Details; http://www.fawc.co.nz

4 – 6: Air New Zealand Wine Awards Judging Auckland

9: Marlborough Wine Show Awards Dinner

14: Wineworks Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Yacht Race to Wellington

4: Decanter World Wine Awards – Presentation Dinner London

7: Pinot at Cloudy Bay – Blenheim Details at www.cloudybay.co.nz

9 – 11: New Zealand International Wine Show judging Auckland

28:

23:

International Wine Show Awards Dinner

Air New Zealand Wine Awards Dinner

Auckland

Queenstown

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013 // 117

STATISTICS

MAJOR NZ VINEYARD AREAS PRODUCING HECTARES

PRINCIPAL EXPORT MARKETS

Region (Actual)

2012

2015 (forecast)

% of Total

Marlborough

22,587.3

23.017.7

66%

Hawkes Bay

4,841.4

4,938.5

14%

Otago

1,786.7

1,791.9

Gisborne

1,616.5

1,586.2

Waipara

1,034.5

1,082.2

Wairarapa / Wellington

941.9

943.5

Nelson

962.6

1,015.4

Auckland / Northland

319.77

315.7

Waikato / Bay of Plenty

16.1

10.2

National Total

34,269.5

34,952.8

Exports up again Exports for the 11 months to end of May 2013 (Moving Annual Total)

Country

United Kingdom

Litres (m)

$ FOB

Average $/L 2013

Average $/L 2012

47,811

273,830

4.93

USA

42,473

281,135

6.62

6.36

Australia

49,460

368,191

7.44

7.11

MAJOR VARIETIES IN MAJOR AREAS

Canada

7448

80,322

10.78

10.82

New Zealand’s total producing vineyard will increase by only 0.5% over the next 2 years. This table shows the variation for major varieties (in Ha), with % change and percentage of total in 2012.

Netherlands

3806

24,213

6.36

5.78

Denmark

0.792

5446

6.87

6.55

Ireland

2089

14,830

7.10

7.55

Japan

1129

13,203

11.69

11.46

Germany

1661

9844

5.92

5.70

2366

28,978

12.24

11.48

Hong Kong

1541

19,940

12.94

12.10

Singapore

1252

16,066

12.83

12.72

Finland

0.163

1356

8.31

9.73

Norway

0.201

1326

6.59

7.42

Sweden

1.603

13,425

8.37

8.12

Others

5,057

48,820

9.65

9.79

168,861

1,200,933

7.11

6.56

Variety

2012

% producing area

2015

% producing area

Sauvignon Blanc

19,929.8

58.2

20,214.7

57.8

Pinot Noir

5096.4

14.9

5175.1

14.8

Chardonnay

3120.9

Pinot Gris

2396.2

Merlot

1195.9

Riesling

719.0

2.1

9.1

3164.0

9.1

7.0

2399.7

6.9

3.5

1245.4

3.6

746.2

2.1

Syrah

354.1

1.0

400.6

Gewurztraminer

331.3

1.0

311.4

0.9

Cabernet Sauv

284.8

0.8

323.7

0.9

Viognier

160.8

0.5

146.5

0.4

Malbec

130.2

0.4

143.9

0.4

Cabernet Franc

111.6

0.3

108.9

0.3

1.3

572.7

1.6

All other varieties

438.7

Total

34,269

China

34,952.9

PRODUCING AREA IN HECTARES BY SIZE - NUMBER OF VINEYARDS Region

0-5

5.01-10

Aklnd / Nthlnd

Canterbury Gisborne

10.01-20

20.01-50

50.01 and over 1

Hawkes Bay

Marlborough

190

291

210

181

100

Nelson

Otago

Waipara

Wairarapa / Wgtn

561

527

349

261

143

Waikato / BoP

National

118 //

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

Total

*(npr = not previously recorded separately) *n.c. = no change

RESEARCH SUPPLEMENT Information and Updates on NZ Winegrowers Research Programmes. Associate Editors: Dr Simon Hooker, General Manager Research and Innovation

A regular feature at the back of each issue of WineGrower to inform industry people about research projects being undertaken for their benefit. Newly approved projects (when available) are briefly summarised in the first section ‘Introducing New Projects’. Longer reports in the section headed ‘Progress Reports’, will describe what has been achieved so far. Scientists in charge of each project have been asked to make these reports reader-friendly rather than to follow the usual format of scientific papers. When completed, each project will be reported in full detail, with references, on the website: http://wine.nzwine.com/members/research/research-reports/

LIST OF PROJECTS QUALITY WINE STYLES FOR EXISTING AND DEVELOPING MARKETS Literature review of grape and wine anthocyanins and phenolics to give viticulturists and winemakers knowledge Lincoln University (Roland Harrison) Preliminary investigation of factors responsible for variability in tartaric acid additions to Pinot Noir Lincoln University (Roland Harrison) Manipulation of methoxypyrazine (MP) levels in Sauvignon Blanc wine through leaf and rachis additions Plant and Food Research (Claire Grose) Influence of juice pH on thiol production Plant and Food Research (Claire Grose) Identification of natural genetic variation in grapevine contributing to pathogen resistance Lincoln University (Chris Winefield) The development of a functional genomics tool for the capture and characterization of transposon mutants in Vitis Vinifera (PhD Scholarship) Rod Bonfiglioli Scholarship Lincoln University (Darrell Lizamore)

Investigation of perceived minerality in white wine Lincoln University (Wendy Parr)

Botrytis decision support (BDS) industry training & botrytis sampling protocols Plant and Food Research (Rob Beresford)

Sensory effects of defoliation timing and method on Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon Eastern Institute of Technology (EIT) (Mark Krasnow)

Understanding causes of slip skin Plant and Food Research (Rob Beresford)

Chinese consumers’ preferences and attitudes to wine: Review of literature including Chinese Language Publications Plant and Food Research (Roger Harker) PESTS AND DISEASE Implementation of Virus Elimination Strategy Various (Nick Hoskins – Project Manager) Supported by MPI Sustainable Farming Fund Review of New Zealand and other related trunk disease information Plant and Food Research (Dion Mundy) Managing Botrytis in New Zealand Viticulture Vino Vitis Ltd (Ruby Andrews)

SUSTAINABILITY/ORGANICS Organic Focus Vineyard Project Organic Winegrowers New Zealand (Rebecca Reider) Supported by MPI Sustainable Farming Fund Effects of undervine vegetation management on grape quality, vine performance, grape composition, and soil properties Eastern Institute of Technology (EIT) (Mark Krasnow) COST REDUCTION/INCREASED PROFITABILITY New opportunities for sustainable grape thinning Plant and Food Research (Mike Trought) Supported by MPI Sustainable Farming Fund Reduced berry size and Botrytis tolerance through trauma to the vine Plant and Food Research (Mike Trought)

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013 // 119

PROGRESS REPORTS

How do plants signal virus attack 11-100

Kieren Arthur and Robin MacDiarmid The New Zealand Institute for Plant & Food Research Ltd

At present, to combat the spread Growth parameters measured in Arabidopsis plants of viral infections in vineyards, Difference between healthy and virus No difference between healthy and virus infected plants must be removed, infected plants infected plants which is an expensive process in perennial crops. One long-term Score of virus symptoms Plant diameter strategy to overcome this is to Total number of leaves* Width of leaves breed plants that are better able to Height of tallets flowering stem resist virus infection. But, in order Number of flowering stems to achieve this goal we must first Dry weight of plant aerial issue* understand how plants like grape- * Measures only show difference between healthy and virus-infected plants at 28 days post virus inoculation. vines interact with the viruses that infect them. At Plant & Food Research, Kieren is a post-doctoral (or group) is involved in signal- belong to this gene family (Creat- CPK genes signal virus infection fellow who is focusing her research ling multiple types of plant stress ing cultivars with improved anti- and whether they cause a plant on better understanding interac- response, such as drought and viral defences, NZ Winegrower, to be more or less susceptible. tions between plants and viruses. cold, but also attack from patho- AUG/SEP 2012). We plan to use Arabidopsis plant The particular research project gens that include viruses. Last In addition to data mining, our lines that each contain a defective involves a group of plant genes year we described our data min- laboratory has also undertaken copy of one of these five genes of called Calcium dependent protein ing results where we identified 18 research into the evolutionary his- interest. These mutant lines will be kinases (CPKs). This gene family genes from the grape genome that tory of this gene family, asking the grown and infected with a virus. If question: can we connect the evo- the plant lines contain a mutation lution of these CPK genes with in a gene that is involved in signaltheir diverse functional roles? ling virus infection, then we would Unfortunately, the evolution of expect to see differences in the CPKs could not be correlated progression of the virus infection, Introducing the model plant Arabidopsis thaliana with their functions with availa- such as an increase/decrease in Worldwide, plant biologists will often undertake ble scientific data. We discovered virus symptom severity. But first, fundamental research about gene function in the that more knowledge about how we must describe what a normal CPKs function was required. We Arabidopsis plant looks like when model plant Arabidopsis as a first step. Arabidopsis was the first plant to have its genome are now using two approaches to infected by different viruses. For red cultivars of grapevines sequence available for analysis in 2000, and there better understand the functional are thousands of scientific papers describing studies role of CPKs in signalling virus infected with Grapevine Leaf rollabout this model plant species. attack. associated virus 3, growers can As a consequence, science has a much more in Approach One: Describing often observe symptoms such as depth undestanding of how different genes interact virus infection in mutant Arabi- uneven bunch ripening, rolled in Arabidopsis than in any other plant species and dopsis lines leaves, and premature red leaf colthere are many more scientific tools and resources From the scientific literature, ouring. In addition, the resulting available for Arabdopsis. 34 CPKs have been identified in impacts of virus infection in terms This means that often we can learn a lot more about the model plant Arabidopsis of grape yield and sugar accumulahow genes function by first looking at how they work (refer to Technical Box), five of tion can be measured. Surprisingly, in Arabidopsis. Once we have basic knowledge of which are potentially involved in for Arabidopsis, although we have how genes function in Arabidopsis, we can then ask signalling virus infection. How- descriptions of symptoms from whether the same genes have the same functions in ever, these studies were limited viral infection such as strong or other plant species. to identification of these genes; weak leaf mosaics and a very or they did not investigate how these slightly stunted growth appear-

TECHNICAL BOX

120 //

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

ance, the impacts of these virus infections in terms of measured plant growth parameters have not been determined. Our first step was to assess which plant growth parameters showed a measurable difference between healthy and virusinfected treatment groups (see the table). These parameters will now be used to measure the impact of different types of virus infection on Arabidopsis plant growth and to assess mutant Arabidopsis lines. These growth studies will help us to work out which of the five identified CPK genes are involved in signalling virus attack. In addition, this same approach can be used on other mutant plant lines which are defective in any other

genes that we are interested in studying. Approach Two: Do other CPKs signal virus attack? Because scientific information on CPKs with regards to virus infection is sparse, we believe it would be beneficial to assess whether any other CPKs also may play a role in signalling virus attack. To this end, we designed a series of virus infection experiments that will be undertaken in parallel in the three different species of plants, Arabidopsis, grape and potato. These experiments will compare virus infection (of closely related if not identical virus species) over a 48-hour time period

after virus inoculation in all three plant species. Samples from all treatments will be analysed using one of two techniques, either next generation sequencing and/or Real time quantitative polymerase chain reaction. These methods will determine the accumulation of CPK genes in each sample. This will provide answers to two very important questions: firstly, are any other CPK genes involved in signalling virus attack? and secondly, do similar CPK genes have the same virus-signalling role in multiple plant species. Answers to these two questions will help us to translate the information we gain from our studies with CPKs in Arabidopsis rapidly

into knowledge about other plant species like grapevines. If we can understand the role that CPK genes are playing in virus attack, perhaps we can use this information to determine what other genes are involved in plant resistance to virus infection. Understanding the key genes in these pathways may help us to select genetic features which can be used by plant breeders to breed grapevines which are more resistant to virus infection.

Acknowledgements This research is funded by the Agricultural and Marketing Research Development Trust (AgMARDT) and NZ Winegrowers.

New opportunities for sustainable grape thinning, relative trash content of bunches post machine thinning 11-101

Dion Mundy, Sue Neal and Mike Trought The New Zealand Winegrowers new opportunities for sustainable grape thinning project has investigated the changes to crop yield and observed incidence and severity of botrytis bunch rot following mechanical thinning treatments. The project has been conducted at four South Island and two North Island sites on a range of varieties (Table 1). In the field Mechanical thinning resulted in the same or lower disease incidence and severity as found in un-thinned or handthinned vines. Three possible mechanisms that may have influenced botrytis bunch rot incidence have been considered. These are; 1)

bunch openness, 2) induced resistance and 3) bunch trash removal. This article is focused on the third aspect – that of bunch trash. Trash can be an important source of inoculum for infection under New Zealand condition. The numbers of items of trash from individual bunches were counted and incubated to determine what proportion constituted a source of Botrytis inoculum. For various different varieties and sites, twenty-five bunches of grapes were collected from each replicate from each treatment and at each site (1800 bunches in total). Each bunch was disassembled and the pieces of ‘trash’

counted and then separately incubated in a small plastic container with a moist paper towel in an airconditioned laboratory at 20ºC, to determine if there was B. cinerea present on the trash. The results for the 25 bunches from each replicate were averaged for analysis. The means from the un-thinned, control and the heavy thinning treatments were compared using a Student t-test.

Amount of trash The amount of trash per bunch of grapes differed between the control and the mechanically thinned bays for four of the six sites (Table 1). Differences in mean amounts

of trash between sites were also observed in the controls. Table 1. Mean number of pieces of trash per grape bunch from bays either left unthinned (control) or mechanically thinned. P-values are from a two-sample Student t-test for control v. mechanical thinning. N = 6 bays for each treatment at each site (see Table 1 over page).

Presence of Botrytis in trash The number of pieces of trash that had Botrytis present differed significantly between the two treatments at four of the six sites (Table 2). The bunches from the mechanically thinned treatment

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013 // 121

Table 1: Mean number of pieces of trash per grape bunch from bays either left unthinned (control) or mechanically thinned. P-values are from a two-sample student t-test for control v. mechanical thinning. N = 6 bays for each treatment at each site.

Region

Variety

Hawke’s Bay

Treatment Control

Mechanical

P-value

Merlot

28.6

24.7

0.27

Wairau Valley

Pinot Noir

53.3

25.9

<0.001

Hawke’s Bay

Pinot Gris

31.3

8.0

<0.001

Awatere Valley

Pinot Gris

45.5

25.7

0.02

Wairau Valley

Sauvignon Blanc

63.4

43.5

<0.001

Awatere Valley

Sauvignon Blanc

69.7

59.9

0.16

Table 2: Mean number of pieces of trash with Botrytis present per grape bunch from bays either left unthinned (control) or mechanically thinned. P-values are from a two-sample student t-test for control v. mechanical thinning. N = 6 bays for each treatment each side.

Region

Variety

Hawke’s Bay

Merlot

Wairau Valley

Treatment Control

Mechanical

P-value

0.1

0.7

0.04

Pinot Noir

12.6

4.8

0.002

Hawke’s Bay

Pinot Gris

8.7

3.6

0.007

Awatere Valley

Pinot Gris

3.7

2.3

0.42

Wairau Valley

Sauvignon Blanc

18.5

10.7

Awatere Valley

Sauvignon Blanc

2.9

2.7

had either similar or lower numbers of Botrytis-infected pieces of trash than the control-treated bunches at all but the Merlot site.

At that site, the mechanically thinned bunches had significantly greater numbers of Botrytisinfected trash, but it should be

Photo: NZW

122 //

NZ WINEGROWER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

0.002 0.81

noted that there were very few pieces of trash with Botrytis present in any of the bunches, and the difference may not be of any

practical importance. Table 2. Mean number of pieces of trash with Botrytis present per grape bunch from bays either left unthinned (control) or mechanically thinned. P-values are from a two-sample Student t-test for control v. mechanical thinning. N = 6 bays for each treatment at each site.

Conclusion Mechanical thinning of vines reduced the amount of trash in bunches at harvest compared with that in unthinned vines. The number of pieces of trash with Botrytis present was similarly reduced. We conclude that the removal of this potent source of primary inoculum from bunches during the mechanical thinning process is an important contributor to reduced amounts of bunch rot at harvest.

Acknowledgements This project is funded by New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW 11-101) and The New Zealand Ministry for Primary Industries Sustainable Farming Fund (SFF 11/101). We would also like to thank the following wine companies for their support, Pernod Ricard NZ, Constellation NZ, Villa Maria Wines and Wither Hills, who provided staff to assist with the trials and vineyard resources.

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