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CONTENTS
ISSUE 85
20 R E GUL A R S
4
Editorial
10
Coffee, Oil and Grapes
Tessa Nicholson
A Marlborough RSE contracting firm is giving more back to the workers from Vanuatu, than just employment in New Zealand. They are also developing new business opportunities on the island of Tanna.
12
Low Quantity = High Quality?
Despite Martinborough having 2.7% of New Zealand’s vineyard plantings, the volume of production is only 1% of the country’s total. Why the inverse statistic? And does this have anything to do with the quality of the region’s wines?
5
From the CEO
Philip Gregan
6
Regional Viewpoint
Sue McLeary – Martinborough
8
In Brief
News from Around the Country
25
Sommelier’s Corner
Cameron Douglas MS
33
Bob’s Blog
Bob Campbell MW
54 Not On The Label
Calendar
Wine Happenings in New Zealand
60 Research Supplement
26
Chardonnay Renaissance
The renowned James Halliday was guest of honour at a recent Family of 12 Chardonnay tasting. As an expert in this variety, he believes New Zealand is well placed to be a leader so long as we make wines that are true to themselves.
Legal Matters with Bell Gully
57
The latest science and research projects funded by NZ Winegrowers
Front Cover: Palliser Estate Wines of Martinborough. Supplied by NZ Winegrowers
FEATURES
36
From Cold Duck to Albarino
The first in a four-part series looking at the wines of New Zealand in terms of decades. Veteran writer Peter Saunders begins the series looking back to the 1970’s. Oh how things have changed!
16
22
26
E D I TO R Tessa Nicholson tessa.nicholson@me.com
FROM THE EDITOR TESSA NICHOLSON
CO R R E SP O N D E NTS Auckland: Joelle Thomson jthomson@xtra.co.nz Hawkes Bay: Mary Shanahan maryshanahan173@gmail.com Nelson: Neil Hodson neil@hodgson.net.nz Canterbury: Jo Burzynska joburzynska@talk21.com Central Otago: Max Marriott max@maxmarriott.com
A DV E R T I SI N G Sales Manager: Ted Darley ted@ruralnews.co.nz Ph: 07 854 6292 Mobile: 021 832 505 Upper North Island: Stephen Pollard stephenp@ruralnews.co.nz Ph: 09 913 9637 Mobile: 021 963 166 Lower North Island: Mark Macfarlane Ph: 04 234 6239 Mobile: 021 453 914 South Island: Kaye Sutherland kayes@ruralnews.co.nz Ph: 03 376 5552 Mobile: 021 221 1994
C I R C U L AT I O N & SUBSCRIPTIONS Lorraine Rudelj lorraine@nzwine.com Ph: 09 303 3527 Fax: 09 302 2969 New Zealand Winegrowers PO Box 90 276, Auckland Mail Centre, New Zealand
PUBLISHING & P R E - P R E SS Rural News Group PO Box 3855, Auckland 1140 Ph: 09 307 0399 Location: Top Floor, 29 Northcroft Street, Takapuna, Auckland 0622 Publisher: Brian Hight Managing Editor: Adam Fricker Production: Dave Ferguson, Rebecca Williams
Published by Rural News Group Ltd under authority of New Zealand Winegrowers (jointly representing Wine Institute of New Zealand Inc and New Zealand Grape Growers Council Inc). Unless directly attributed, opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of Rural News Group and/or its directors or management, New Zealand Winegrowers or its constituent organisations. Published every second month. One free copy is mailed to every member of the Institute, the Council, the New Zealand Society of Viticulture & Oenology and the New Zealand Vine Improvement Group, and to such other persons or organisations as directed by the owners, with provision for additional copies and other recipients to be on a subscription basis.
ISSN 1174-5223
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NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014
PICKING POCKETS
W
hile vintage is close to over in some of the northern regions, it is just hitting its straps further south. And so far, so good. Fears that Cyclone Lusi would devastate all the hard work undertaken by growers and wineries, with a weekend of mayhem, rain and wind, didn’t thankfully come to fruition. Yes there was rainfall in all the major wine growing regions, apart from Central Otago, but thankfully it wasn’t as much as anyone expected. And most tended to fall in the hills, not affecting the crops as had been predicted. Most regions are talking up the vintage at this stage, given the growing conditions for the past few months (apart from Lusi) have been favourable. And thankfully after emptying tanks, it looks like there will be plenty of 2014 to go around. Our exports markets will be pleased to hear that. All eyes will be on Marlborough, given the crop levels are described as “bumper” by growers and wineries alike. What happens in this region, impacts on everyone else, due to its sheer size. The good news though for all of the New Zealand wine industry, is the hard work that has been undertaken in the vineyards this season. Mechanical thinning has come to the fore, with more than 2500 hectares thinned this way. On top of that growers have been kept busy hand thinning, with many dropping more than 30 percent of their crop. While all agree it was vital to drop crop for quality reasons, it has been heart breaking for many to see so much lying on the ground. As the grower who sent me this photo exclaimed – “Paying someone to thin, is like paying someone to pick your pocket.” A sentiment any grower can relate to. After the 2008/09 over supply,
many people throughout the wine industry lambasted the Marlborough region, for allowing the crop levels to get to such a high. It was common to hear derogatory comments about the growers being greedy. Well that can’t be said this year. Between mechanical thinning and hand thinning, (the photo below is hand thinned after a mechanical thin), the yields have dropped considerably. Yes they will be higher than in previous years, but that has a lot to do with more land being in full production now, compared with 2010/11. And the conditions at flowering and fruit set were as near perfect as you could get. These factors are beyond the grower’s control. What is evident is that the majority in Marlborough have learned from the lessons of the past. As have wineries, with yield caps being strictly enforced. Hopefully the rest of the country will appreciate that. ■
FROM THE CEO PHILIP GREGAN
SUPPORTING MAJOR EVENTS FOR THE NEXT 10 YEARS
T
he Board of NZWinegrowers has recently agreed a 10 year strategy around major events and inbound visitors to New Zealand. The strategy is a direct follow up to a review of the very successful Pinot Noir 2013 held in Wellington a little more than a year ago The Board of Pinot’s Post 2013, review was very much focussed on how to make the Pinot event even more successful than the 2013 version, which was the fifth iteration since it commenced in Wellington in 2001. Amongst the matters identified in that review was a need for greater NZW involvement in the event including in areas such as administrative support and sponsorship. NZW also conducted a review of Pinot Noir and the associated events post 2013. Whereas the Pinot Board review looked at the event in detail, the purpose of the NZW review was to examine the fit of major events within the context of the wider suite of NZW marketing activities. In particular the review examined the role of major events as “hooks” to attract visits to New Zealand by key media and trade – a well-established feature of the NZW marketing programme. The outcome of the NZW review was that the Board in October adopted the “In-bound
visitor and Major Events Strategy 2014-2024’. Subsequent to that at its most recent meeting in March the Board agreed the organisational structure and funding model to support the inbound visitor and major events strategy. In essence, NZW has decided that major events (such as the Pinot Noir celebration) and the in-bound visits associated
The event committees will organise a series of events over the next 10 years as follows: 2016 – NZ Sauvignon Blanc 2017 – NZ Pinot Noir 2019 – NZ Sauvignon Blanc 2021 – NZ Pinot Noir 2023 – NZ Sauvignon Blanc The Pinot Noir celebrations will be book-ended as in the past by events on full bodied reds and aromatics. The bookends for the
The Pinot Noir celebrations will be book-ended as in the past by events on full bodied reds and aromatics. The bookends for the Sauvignon Blanc events have yet to be decided, but could well be Chardonnay and sparkling wines that feature for example.
with those events are a core component of the NZW marketing strategy. As such NZW has decided to bring the organisation of these events “in-house”. The practical effect of this change is that Pinot Noir 2013 as a separate company will be dis-established and a Pinot Noir Event Committee will be established by NZW. Other major event committees (notably a Sauvignon Blanc Committee) will be established in due course to organise the events
Sauvignon Blanc events have yet to be decided, but could well be Chardonnay and sparkling wines that feature for example. This major event cycle will culminate in 2021 with the 20th anniversary of the first Pinot Noir Conference in Wellington, while the 2023 Sauvignon Blanc event is timed to coincide with the 50th anniversary of planting of grape vines in Marlborough. As noted above, Event Committees will be established for each of these celebrations. The Committees will provide the
creative vision for each of the events and the accountability back to the Board and to the members. As with the previous Pinot Noir Board, industry members who wish to be part of the Committees will be invited to submit applications with the final decision on Committee membership being made by the Board of NZW. Funding for the events will come from a mix of member participation fees, sponsorship and ticket sales, as is the case with the current Pinot Noir event. NZW support will likely be primarily in helping to deliver the key media and trade audience to events as we have done for each of the Pinot Noir and associated events since 2001. We believe the decisions made on the structure to support these major events is a strong signal of the commitment of NZW to supporting these events into the future. The strategy also is a very positive response to a number of the issues raised by the Pinot Noir Board after the 2013 event. With a long term plan in place we now need to begin to commencing the event planning. If members require any further information about the major events strategy, please contact either myself or Chris Yorke and the NZ Winegrowers office. ■
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014 // 5
REGIONAL VIEWPOINT
MARTINBOROUGH S U E M C L E A R Y – C O O R D I N AT O R W I N E S O F M A R T I N B O R O U G H
T
here are tractors balancing bins of grapes trundling down roads criss-crossing the Martinborough Wine Village. Casual street conversations start with “how are your grapes?” and the lights are on late in wineries all over town. The 2014 harvest has begun. With only 1200 residents and over 50 vineyards, the buzz of anticipation at harvest time is palpable. It’s everywhere. It’s personal. Always ready to add a “so far” caution about harvest conditions and the season’s outlook, understated Martinborough winemakers are quietly optimistic that this is going to be “a very good one. Maybe a really good one.” They are not quite ready to describe it as excellent (like last year); although by the time you read this they will know. 2013 was a golden summer in Martinborough, and simply remembering it brings smiles to winemakers. Nga Waka’s Roger Parkinson described it as “a Goldilocks season; neither too hot nor too cold, not too wet or too dry.” Record sunshine hours were balanced by the district’s trade-
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mark cool nights, slowly developing the complex flavours and ageing potential Martinborough is known for. Martinborough wineries are very excited about 2013, with some white varieties already receiving critical acclaim and bright prospects for wines still maturing gently in tank and barrel. Sneak preview tastings have ratcheted up the excitement level. As Martinborough Vineyard’s Paul Mason says “If there is a grower or winemaker unhappy with the 2013 season, they are unlikely ever to be happy.” 2014 got off to a fast hot start in December, cooled down in January and warmed up again in February and March. The fruit is looking very good. The crop is heavy but slightly down on last year, and that’s generally agreed to be fine. The tantalising prospect of back-to-back “excellent seasons” is invigorating the district. A more commercial buzz of excitement also echoes around the village. Changes are afoot with some vineyards changing hands and new labels being established as demand rises for Martinborough’s appellation.
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014
“New people bring new skills, dynamism and resources to the district,” says Wines From Martinborough Chair Margaret Hanson (The Elder Pinot). “We see vineyards being refreshed, more investment in branding and distribution and the overall quality of the region going from strength to strength. “Vineyards that have proved their worth are being bought up as the original owners reach a stage of wanting to do different things. Unlike Europe, there is little New Zealand heritage of inheriting vineyards,” she observes. John Kavanagh (Te Kairanga Wines) comments that parent company Foley Family Wines “sees an exciting opportunity to produce fine wine from one of New Zealand’s great wine producing areas. “They are willing to invest significantly in the vineyards and winery, and down the distribution chain to international markets. “Consumer respect for the Martinborough region is central to the ongoing success of all vineyards here. We see vitality, fine product quality and growth
PHOTO: Pete Monk | www. petemonk.com
potential.” Underpinning this confidence is the acknowledgement that the small artisan district has a madeto-measure combination of terroir and vine age to create wines of distinction. After nearly 30 years in the district, Larry McPinot himself adds an important factor – winemaker age! 2014 is shaping up to be a very good year for Martinborough. The grapes are full of flavour, there is an air of confidence about the challenge of change and the future is promising for the unique wine village with its focus on premium artisan wines. It’s that indefinable X-factor that had one wine writer say happily after tasting a 2003 Pinot Noir recently “this is what I want in a Pinot Noir”. ■
Irrigating NZ for over 14 years HydroGOL/PC/PCND Drip Line
Did you know that if you rolled out all the Hydrogol, HydroPC & HydroPCND drip line in New Zealand end to end it would stretch from Auckland to Invercargill over 14 times! That’s because when it comes to irrigation, New Zealand growers depend on the nation’s tried and tested drip line. Developed 17 years ago, and used in New Zealand for over 14 years, Hydrogol, HydroPC & HydroPCND are name synonymous with performance and reliability. Of course we could name a number of features that make them so popular; two outlets per dripper, a large labyrinth to help prevent clogging, but the most important feature is the many New Zealand growers who successfully grow crops year after year with John Deere Water Hydrogol, HydroPC & HydroPCND. Find a distributor near you at www.JohnDeereWater.co.nz DLNZ0214
JohnDeereWater.co.nz
IN BRIEF
NATIONAL New Sustainable Winegrowing NZ Scorecards Since the last magazine, new scorecards for 2014 have been developed for Vineyard, Winery and Brand-Only Members, and are now in the process of being tested. SWZ have listened to Member feedback and have developed the new Scorecards with a view to reducing the workload and time it takes to complete. One of the concerns was there were too many questions, some of which weren’t relevant. As a result, the questions have been split into Compulsory and Voluntary, the latter giving Members the option of how much data they wish to report for benchmarking. In order to ensure that these new Scorecards meet Members’ needs, SWNZ are using a Focus Group of users from within the Industry to provide feedback. Scorecards will be available after harvest, with training provided at Members Days, currently planned for June. Members will have additional time to complete their Scorecards this year as a result.
New Wet Stick Labels Panprint Labels have launched a new range of labels that will alleviate the problems
of surface bonding due to condensation or wet conditions. Sparkling and low alcohol wine are some of the varieties that will benefit from the new Wet Stick, as will any wine that requires storage in cool, damp conditions, such as an ice bucket. The new adhesive will be available on a wide range of labels, and is due to be introduced to bottlers within the next few months.
Italy Seeks Intellectual Protection In NZ Intellectual property rights and geographical indications are as important to Italian wine as the colours black and white are to New Zealand rugby, which is why a visiting Italian delegation are on their way to this country to discuss misuse of words such as Prosecco and parmesan. “The importance of the protection of intellectual property is well known, and particularly that of geographical indications because it plays a very big role for Italian wineries and their exports,” says Roberto Funari from the Embassy of Italy in Wellington. “According to reports from our Ministry of Foreign Affairs, New Zealand, along with
Auckland Winegrower Writer Gains Research Grant New Zealand Winegrower writer Joelle Thomson is one of three writers to be awarded NZSA/Auckland Museum Research Grants. The grants provide not only funding, but also the facilities and resources of the Auckland Museum Library, to aid in the development of their fiction or non-fiction manuscript. Joelle will receive $1500 to assist her in writing her book Wine in Aotearoa, which she is working on with Wellington artist Christopher White. “The work has all been undertaken without funding so far, so to be given a modest cash grant towards my writing time means a lot - as does the support and assistance of staff at the Auckland Museum Library. The latter will prove to be a real asset to the book’s content.” 8 //
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014
Alex Corban, painted by Christopher White for the book.
other countries, is particularly active in the use of Italian geographical indications; parmesan and Prosecco are extreme cases but there seem to be others too.”
Heavy Metal Testing In The China Market NZW have been informed that selective testing is being conducted by Chinese authorities for the presence of certain heavy metals in wine. Wines from various countries are being tested specifically against the following limits: • copper <1 mg/l; • iron < 8 mg/l; • manganese < 2 mg/l. While the limits for copper and iron are already listed in the NZW International Winemaking Practices Guide, the manganese limit is a new requirement. No New Zealand wines have been found to exceed these limits by Chinese authorities. However, as a matter of precaution, exporters to China may choose to have their wines analysed prior to export for the presence of these heavy metals. For further details on testing, contact Kirsten at Hill Laboratory.
HAWKE’S BAY Villa Maria Secures Gimblett Gravels Fruit Villa Maria has purchased a 41-hectare property in Gimblett Gravels, part of which already has vines planted, with the remainder being bare land. Formerly owned and managed by Pask Winery, the vineyard has in the past supplied grapes for Villa Maria that were surplus to Pask Winery’s requirements. Sir George Fistonich said opportunities to buy parcels of land such as this one, did not come along very often. “There is fierce competition to purchase more vineyards in this very limited premium wine area. We’re seeing strong growth in demand for
red wines, particularly in Asia, so securing our grape supply is crucial to meeting our customer requirement.”
Vineyard Southern Clays Pinot Noir 2010 (from Marlborough) winning runner up to Best Wine of Competition, along with Best Red Wine and Best Pinot Noir Wine. Yealands Estate won Best Value Dry White Table Wine for their Land Made Series Pinot Gris 2013. Ara Wines Select Block Sauvignon Blanc 2012 won Best Sauvignon Blanc. The Best Medium Bodied Dry Red Table Wine went to Hawke’s Bay’s Alpha Domus The Barnstormer Syrah 2012. Saint Clair Family Estate were awarded the Most Successful Entrant of the Competition.
New Zealand Tops Sydney Wine Competition Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Chardonnay 2012 took out top honours at the recent Sydney International Wine Competition. The same wine had already won trophies for Best White Wine and Best Medium Bodied Dry White Wine. It was a case of New Zealand leading the pack at the competition, with Villa Maria’s Single
Marlborough Research Grant The Cresswell Jackson New Zealand Wine Trust has awarded its first research grant – to Dr Wendy Parr of Lincoln University who will work in collaboration with Adelaide based Phil Reedman MW, the University of Burgundy, and London and Oxford Universities. The grant will help assist in the project to provide sound,
scientifically-based information concerning specific aspects of wine tasting and judging. The trust was set up by the directors of Wine Competition Ltd which runs both the Spiegelau International Wine Competition and the Marlborough Wine Show. The money is raised by auctioning unopened bottles of wine not required during the shows.
New Tutor For Wine Course David Hayward is the new wine tutor at the Marlborough Campus of NMIT. Hayward has spent the last 14 years as the oenology lecturer at University Melbourne, Dookie Campus. He is relishing being in New Zealand, a country where he says there is obvious unity within the wine industry. “I get this overwhelming impression of vibrancy, enthusiasm and can-do. There’s a pretty good sense of unity which I haven’t seen in the grape growing regions that I have personally been involved in.” Hayward replaces Tricia Jane.
Central Otago Royals To Visit Winery The
The event will be co-hosted by members
Duke and Duchess of Cambridge will be getting up close and personal with Central Otago wines this month. The royal couple’s itinerary includes a visit to Queenstown on Sunday April 13, during which time they will be hosted at Amisfield Winery.
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NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014 // 9
REGIONS MARLBOROUGH
COFFEE, OIL AND GRAPES TESSA NICHOLSON
W
hile coffee, coconut oil and grapes may not seem to have anything in common, a Marlborough RSE accredited contracting firm is proving otherwise. Vinepower owned by Jason Kennard and Jono Bushell is combining its own skills with those of the Ni-Van (Vanuatu) RSE workers to develop one of the island’s local economy. Vinepower has been part of the RSE programme for more than six years. While originally they were employing workers from Thailand and Tonga, they branched out to employ men from the islands of Vanuatu. The RSE scheme was established to fill a major hole in terms of a labour force here in New Zealand, while also providing an income stream to some of our poorer Pacific neighbours. Money earned by the workers is sent home, to help improve the lives of those on the islands. Bushell says that has worked remarkably well. Having visited Vanuatu on recruiting missions for a number of years, he said the conditions are anything but easy. “It’s pretty primitive. In Tanna (one of the southern islands) for example where we are working, the closest water source is down a 100-foot ravine. People bathe in it, they wash their clothes in it and they carry drinking water back up the hill for the village. They have no pumps or anything like that.” But money the men have earned while in New Zealand is
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making a difference he says. “A lot of it goes into housing and education is a big one. That is great to see. And a lot of people set up a business. But when I say to them, ‘Oh that’s great, what sort of business are you setting up’, they tell me they are going to set up a store. Right! They all set up these stores, and there’s one next door to them, and another next door to that, and they are all selling the same stuff. When you drive down the road in Tanna in particular, there are 15 stores all in a row, with exactly the same stuff in them.” Bushell could see there was a need for a more sustainable business solution. He and Kennard, along with a business partner based in Tanna, came up with the idea of establishing a coconut oil factory and establishing coffee plantations. Coffee is nothing new to Vanuatu, but it was apparent to Bushell that the potential of the plantations in Tanna wasn’t being met. “I know nothing about growing coffee, but I could see that they were being mismanaged and not maintained. The coffee industry has been there for 25 to 30 years and the bushes were planted all that time ago. With no maintenance undertaken, they have grown into great big trees, so you can’t access the berries.” When he found out that a number of villagers had pooled their land and leased it to Tanna Coffee, but the area had never been planted, he swung into
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014
action. After negotiating with Tanna Coffee he secured permission to clear a large block of land, (7 ha) and plant with coffee and vegetables. “We had a group of guys who had worked for us in New Zealand in the vineyards and we took them up and said the first thing we were going to do was clear about a hectare of the land and plant it. While they thought that it was going to be so different from the work they had undertaken in New Zealand,
The very first coffee plant goes into the ground.
Enjoying the fruits of their labour, the coffee planters tuck into fresh water melon.
they quickly realised that it’s not so much about the crop you are growing, it’s about the work ethic. I said to the guys, when we set it up, we set it up like the grapes – and they understood that.” Villagers helped out, clearing the thick scrub by hand with bush knives. There was no modern equipment to help them out. Of the original 10 men who started out, few are left, given they have come back to New Zealand under RSE. Bushell says they have queues of people lining up to replace them, knowing that if they do a good job, they will also be considered for future RSE work over here. The cost is minimal by vineyard standards. The coffee plants themselves cost nothing, given there are literally thousands of plants growing wild in the undergrowth. These are transplanted into the newly developed plantation. Inter row plantings include a vast range of
vegetables and fruit, from peanuts to corn, water melon to zucchini. Trials on cauliflower, broccoli and peppers are now underway. The aim is to be able to grow at a quality level that will enable the villagers to sell the produce to hotels and markets. But a water supply for irrigation will be necessary, something that Bushell and Kennard are now looking into. As for the coconut oil, both men were aware of the growing trend towards this product worldwide. Coconut plantations were planted on Tanna many years ago, for copra, but the bottom fell out of the market due to transport and production costs. Since then the coconuts have been left to grow wild. “There are millions of coconut trees and the bulk of them just fall to the ground and nothing is done with them. There is going to be a bit of work over the years to bring those plantations back into line, but at the moment there is an abundance of coconuts that we can collect.” So villagers are paid to pick up the coconuts, which are then collected by a truck once a week. Bushell says it costs $2000 a week to buy the coconuts, but they should be able to process up to 16,000 a week for virgin oil, in a factory that is currently
Elephant grass like this covered the site.
being built. There is no doubt that the two major projects will increase the lifestyle of the island. Without such opportunities most of the population would have to survive on subsistence farming. Instead they are now able to put to use skills they have learned in New Zealand, or gain work skills at home before coming out here. “We are putting back into the communities there and we are teaching people how to utilise
the skills they have learned. But we also want a continued supply of workers for RSE and be able to up skill them. When we take on people we want to know that when they come here we have a really good calibre of person who is prepared to work and has a good work ethic. By putting them through these different businesses we are setting that up.” That is RSE working for everyone. ■ tessa.nicholson@me.com
The new look coffee plantation.
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014 // 11
REGIONS MARTINBOROUGH
MARTINBOROUGH: CROPPING LEVELS JOELLE THOMSON
T
he word Wairarapa conjures up images of the quaint and gentrified little town of Martinborough and its small wine industry. This region is synonymous with low quantity wine production and high quality wines. If small is beautiful, then here it is. But are these two opposing facts – low quantity, high quality – linked? The answer arose when talking with Phyll Pattie from Ata Rangi
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Vineyard at the Pinot Noir 2013 conference in Wellington. She has long noticed the inverse relationship between Martinborough’s planted area – the Wairarapa has approximately 2.7% of New Zealand’s total vineyard – and the volume of its production; about one per cent, give or take vintage variation. What causes this inverse statistic? “It’s all about the region’s exposure to the south. The only
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014
other wine region which is regularly on the receiving end of that direct southerly weather in New Zealand is probably Waipara,” suggests Pattie. “We get very cold nights because of the ocean influence and often we get frosts with the southerlies dumping unseasonal snow on our mountains. The southerly winds we often get during spring impacts on flowering,” she says. The impact of this weather system is pivotal to the style of the
wines from the region. Its best wines consistently show a marked concentration in tannin levels which stamps the style of its Pinot Noirs. The wines are an expression of the chilly spring weather, says Pattie. She is not alone in her belief. Other winemakers I have spoken to also see a direct correlation between chilly springs, high winds and tricky fruit set (something which frequently used to wipe out Neil McCallum’s Gewurztraminer
grapes when he owned Dry River Wines; this meant that in some years he simply didn’t make one). “We seem to get much lower yields than Pinot Noir producers in some other regions, which is backed up anecdotally by conversations we’ve had over the years with winemakers and growers in other regions,” says Pattie. Many berries are not fertilised during flowering in spring, so consequently there are fewer berries per bunch. Ultimately, the bunch weights in this region are relatively light and noticeably sparse, says Ata Rangi winemaker Helen Masters. Masters first arrived in the region to work at Martinborough Vineyard in 2001 and later joined Ata Rangi at the end of 2003; prior to which she was a self-described gypsy; working in California and Oregon. She believes the cool spring, the sparse and small bunches and the high ratio of tannins to pulp in Martinborough have a direct impact on the concentration of flavour in the region’s wines. Not only in Martinborough, but further afield in the greater Wairarapa too, she says. “It would be interesting to do a photographic picture of a year in the region; looking at the same clones would tell you quite a bit of the story as to why the wines are this way,” she says. “The ratio of pulp to skin means that there’s more tannin; Martinborough has a high level of seed tannin because the berries are small, and our season tends to be slightly longer and more drawn out in autumn,” she says. “If you were to collect a whole line-up of Pinot Noir clones from Martinborough and lay them all out on a white sheet then put them next to the same clones from Marlborough or Central Otago, you would see big differences. And the biggest one, to me, is that our bunch weights in Martinborough are determined by a strong differ-
ence in flowering weather. Bunch sizes are significantly reduced because of this,” she says. “I don’t see much over 110 grams, which is nearly half that of Central Otago. In a terrible year we might see a Dijon clone here which would be only 65 grams.” Both Masters and Martinborough Vineyards winemaker Paul Mason agree that Martinborough’s phenolic concentration is determined significantly by spring weather in the region. “Fertilization is by wind and if we get a blast of cool southerly weather at 10 degrees with rain then that largely determines what will happen to a particular flower which is trying to fertilise during a cold spell. It won’t fertilise and will drop off,” says Masters. Mason adds that it is not only Pinot Noir which benefits in phenolic intensity, due to these weather patterns. Riesling from this region tends to be full bodied, lending itself to a relatively dry, long-lived style. “I have a theory on the full bodied characters in Martinborough Riesling and, essentially, I think it’s similar to the tannin structure we see in our Pinots,” he says. “It’s a combination of climate, soils and then certainly some vine age; all of these factors give our Rieslings a significant amount of phenolic weight, which comes across as textural. The weather is tough to work with but it results in wines which have a balance triangle between sugar, acidity and phenolics - much like I see in the wines of Alsace.” The inverse relationship between low quantity crops and high quality wine varies each year but it’s the relativity that’s important here. This comes into play most obviously with bunch architecture, phenolic concentration and in the ultimate flavours of the wines from this small wine region. ■ jthomson@xtra.co.nz
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014 // 13
EASTER SHOW
HALL OF FAME INDUCTEES Two of the big names in New Zealand wine were inducted into the Wine Hall of Fame at the Easter show. Alan Brady and Larry McKenna have both played major roles in the development of their regions and the New Zealand wine story as a whole. Alan Brady MNZM
He explored a number of Born in Northern possibilities for Ireland 1936, Alan Brady the land and even today has came to New Zealand as no idea why a young journalist on an he was drawn “OE” in 1959. He is still to grapes. He here, having worked in had no cultural both print and radio or practical over the years. background in It was on a visit to Alan Brady viticulture but Central Otago in 1960, that his love affair with the region in the face of some skepticism began, although it took another 16 and negative advice, in 1981 he years before he and his wife bought planted a half acre experimental their first plot of land. The seven plot with half a dozen different hectares and a cottage at Gibbston varieties. One of them was became a weekend retreat from Pinot Noir which grew easily and the city. But the more they visited, ripened more consistently than the more they liked the location, any of the others. Today he says: the climate and the atmosphere of “Pinot found us, not the other the place. So much so they decided way around. There was no great to step off their career ladders and wisdom or vision on our part.” go and live there in 1977. Alan’s For the next seven years passion for the region has never he mixed viticulture then winemaking with freelance dimmed.
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NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014
journalism in television, radio and print. He founded Gibbston Valley Wines Ltd with a hardy bunch of investors and in 1987 produced Central Otago’s first commercial vintages of Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and a white blend under Gibbston Valley label. Two years later, in 1989/90, he built the area’s first purpose-built winery and restaurant and in 1995 New Zealand’s largest underground wine cave. The complex on the main road into Queenstown became the launch pad for wine tourism in Central Otago. In 1998, Alan sold his shares in Gibbston Valley and built a second winery, Mount Edward, a few kilometres along the road. He ran this as a one man operation, specialising in Pinot Noir. In 2004, aged 68, Alan sold a majority interest in Mount Edward and “retired.” He wrote the autobiography “Pinot Central
- A Winemaker’s Story,” but says he missed getting his hands dirty at harvest. “I got bored”, so in 2006 he developed a new label as a small “retirement project.” This year (2014) will complete the ninth vintage of “Wild Irishman” Pinot Noir which sells locally and in Singapore and the UK. Alan was a founding member and past president of Central Otago Winegrowers Association, a board member of New Zealand Winegrowers in the mid 1990s and founding chair of Gibbston Community Association. Currently, he is a director of Felton Road Wines Ltd, and works with a number of wine industry bodies. In the 1996 Queen’s Birthday Honours, Alan was made MNZM for “services to the wine industry.” In 2011 he was the recipient of the Sir George Fistonich Medal, awarded to “Legends of New Zealand Wine”.
Larry McKenna RDA
viticulture to marketing. Larry McKenna is the winHe found a emaker who introduced wine commuNew Zealand to quality nity that was Pinot Noir, and in doing beginning to so helped Martinborough stir. become known as Pinot Holder of Noir country. a Diploma in McKenna arrived in Agriculture Martinborough in1986, Larry McKenna from Australlured from his job as head ia’s premier winemaker for Delegats by the wine school, Roseworthy Colhunting and fishing opportunities lege, McKenna was the first proand the chance as a shareholder to fessional winemaker in the area, be fully involved in a winery from and arrived in time to make the
1986 vintage. It was eye-opening, and set the pattern for a string of unprecedented, robust, rich- flavoured and multi-faceted wines that followed. When Martinborough Vineyard won four gold medals and champion wine of the national show in 1988 McKenna’s and the winery’s reputation was assured. McKenna’s contribution to the industry as judge and chief judge here and in Australia has been significant. As well, he helped establish the Southern Pinot Noir workshop, now in its 25th year, and
the Wellington Pinot Noir celebration in 2001. This is now New Zealand’s most important wine promotion. McKenna describes as “ludicrous” suggestions that Martinborough is losing it mojo to Central Otago. “The Martinborough style is of far more interest to Pinot Noir lovers. It is more the classic style in structure and complexity” he says. He sees a volume player entering the district but insists that “more small businesses like ours are what the area needs”. ■
TROPHY WINNERS ROYAL EASTER SHOW OI New Zealand Champion Wine of the Show Villa Maria Single Vineyard Taylors Pass Chardonnay 2012 Wine Maker of the Year – Royal Agricultural Society Gold Medal George Geris (Villa Maria Estate) Rapid Labels Champion Sparkling Deutz Marlborough Cuvée Blanc de Blancs 2009 Red Badge Champion Riesling Greenhough Apple Valley Riesling 2013 The Village Press Champion Gewurztraminer Grove Mill Wairau Valley Gewurztraminer 2013 Datacom Champion Pinot Gris
Wairau River Pinot Gris 2013 Global Cap NZ Champion Sauvignon Blanc Vavasour Awatere Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2013 New World Champion Chardonnay Villa Maria Single Vineyard Taylors Pass Chardonnay 2012 Drinksbiz Champion Viognier Mudbrick Vineyard Reserve Viognier 2013 Riedel Champion Sweet Wine Tohu Raiha Reserve Limited Release Noble Riesling 2013 NZ Winegrower Champion Pinot Noir Saint Clair Pioneer Block 22 Barn Block Pinot Noir 2012
United Cleaning Services Champion Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot Villa Maria Reserve Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2012 Sky City Champion Syrah Giesen The Brothers Marlborough Syrah 2011 Show Light & Power Ltd Champion Merlot Esk Valley Winemakers Reserve Gimblett Gravel Merlot Malbec Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
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NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014 // 15
NEW TECHNOLOGY
FROST PROTECTION TESSA NICHOLSON
A
t least three people in New Zealand are eagerly awaiting the first frosts of the season, if only so they can continue trials into the development of a new frost protection machine. Fred Phillips, a Hamilton based engineer, is one of a team behind the Heat Ranger, a futuristic looking machine that could change the face of protection for vineyards. Late spring and early winter frosts can be devastating for a grower, destroying an entire years work in just a few short hours. Phillips says that Bruce Koller, a part owner of a blackcurrant property in Canterbury and his manager Nigel Green were the ones who said they needed a machine that could heat cold air up and then transfer it to a large area during sub zero temperatures. Richard Roake is the aerodynamic design engineer behind the machine, which is made from fabricated steel, aluminium and fibreglass, and uses LPG to put out 1200 kilowatts of heat per hour. The fan is driven from a tractor PTO and the tractor also charges the battery that powers the sophisticated electronics. The cold air sucked in from the ground passes over a large fan up through the heater and is propelled out at a temperature of 25 + degrees. The distance covered by the machine in trials last year (admittedly not in frost conditions) showed the machine’s warm air covered in excess of 200 metres and at times up to 250 metres. “That’s about 16 hectares, which is a lot more than a wind machine – three to four times more,”
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NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014
Phillips said. What’s more it does not have to be fixed in the one site. “It is easily moveable as it fits onto a three point linkage so it can be picked up and moved around the orchard or vineyard as needed.” The other issue that will appeal to growers is the machine is much quieter than a traditional wind machine and does not require a resource consent. “We are using a multi blade fan and only run it at 1400 revs per minute, so it is very quiet. Because it is a small diameter fan we are not getting into high tip speed noise problems. The noisiest thing is the tractor and the gear box.” The Heat Ranger works
differently to wind machines as well. “It creates a micro climate much like a donut effect over the crop. In that process it sets up a whole lot of eddies, and a warm air blanket over the protected area.” With smart controls, there is however a need for sensors. “We have sensors in the protected area on five metre masts,” Phillips said. “And elsewhere on the vineyard site we need to have a taller 18m mast that tells us where the inversion layer is, and measures the temperature gradient. The information from these masts is recorded in frost conditions at one-minute intervals and is telemetered to Harvest Electronics. The machine monitors what is happening around it so it knows when to start up and when to stop for that matter.” The primary focus at present is to complete the current trials being undertaken on the single nozzle creation which has the flexibility to cover a part circle, as well as 360 degrees. However Phillips said there will be both twin and single nozzle options available in the future. All involved are now keen for the first frosts to arrive, given since the prototype was built, there have been no frosts in the Canterbury trial plot. “I think our creation of this machine single handedly saved the New Zealand horticultural industry of 2013,” he jokes. And if all goes well, the machine itself may be the life saver for growers facing frosty conditions in the future. ■ tessa.nicholson@me.com
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WINEMAKING NEWS
SULPHIDES ARE HERE TO STAY! KIRSTEN CREASY
W
hat are VSCs? VSCs are chemical compounds that contain a sulphur molecule and have associated aromas that range from passionfruit to burnt onion and rubber. The most recognised compounds would be the thiol group, also known as mercaptans. They are responsible for the immediately identifiable Sauvignon Blanc aroma as well as aromatics in a number of different varieties – black currant in the Cabernet family for instance. However, they can also be associated with difficult ferments and overly reductive handling during aging and bottling leading to wines with aromas of struck match, vegetal and savoury notes. It is important to note the increasing trend of incorporating VSCs into wines to add complexity and explore the boundaries of consumer preference.
How are VSCs produced? VSCs will naturally occur in
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wines as a by product of yeast metabolism, although many of the pathways have yet to be fully understood. In general, various forms of sulphur – residues from sprays, SO2 added at crush or natural sulphates in the grapes – are bought into the yeast cell and are enzymatically reduced to hydrogen sulphide. This combines with nitrogen containing carbon compounds (what we measure as YAN) to form the essential amino acids cysteine and methionine when the cell requires it. This sulphate reductase pathway can continue even if the nitrogen pool is depleted during fermentation, which will lead to an overabundance of H2S causing it to ‘leak’ into the wine. Therefore, assessing the level of nitrogen prior to fermentation can help predict which ferments may be problematic. It has been found that the timing of nitrogen depletion could also impact on H2S production, with the greatest amount produced when nitrogen is not available during the exponential
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014
growth phase of the yeast. YAN measures the total available nitrogen in a juice, but it appears that the ratio of the nitrogen sources also plays a role. High ammonia nitrogen levels on their own will not prevent the production of H2S, as the yeast also require good levels of amino acid nitrogen. A number of amino acids have been shown to suppress H2S production . Arginine, the most common yeast available amino acid in grapes, is concentrated in the skin. If you have problem vineyard sites or know that it is a low YAN year, it may be worth considering how to
process the fruit to extract the most arginine, as this could be a contributing factor to healthy ferments in difficult years. A number of other environmental factors will also play a part in H2S production. Juice turbidity, ferment temperature, levels of free sulphur in the juice and yeast strain all impact on the potential production of VSCs . Figure 1 Table of common VSC based on their boiling points. The upper compounds in blue have a boiling point below 90degrees C; the compounds in pink, above 90 degrees C. Data provided by ETS Labs, California.
Figure 1
Hydrogen Sulphide 0.9ppb
Rotten egg
Ethyl Mercaptan 1.1ppb Ethanethiol Methyl Mercaptan 1.5ppb Methanethiol Dimethyl Sulphide 17ppb
Burnt match, sulfide, earthy
Diethyl Sulphide 0.9ppb
Rubbery
Diethyl Disulphide 3.6ppb
Garlic, burnt rubber
Rotten cabbage, burnt rubber Canned corn, vegetal
Dimethyl Disulphide 9.8ppb Onion like, vegetal, cabbage
Identification and removal of VSCs VSCs can be categorised into two main groups based on their volatility: those that have boiling points below 90 degrees and those above (Figure 1). It is this volatility that determines how to remove the VSC. If H2S is produced during the first half of fermentation, the vigour of the ferment will dissipate the very volatile gas. The latter half of ferment is less vigorous and H2S can be removed with oxygen, either through an aerative splash rack or sparging. As part of a sulphides panel, we would consider three other compounds to be low boiling point VSCs: methyl mercaptan (methanethiol); ethyl mercaptan (ethanethiol) and dimethyl sulphide. Methyl mercaptan is the most common problematic VSC formed during fermentation whereas ethyl mercaptan is not usually found above
sensory threshold levels. Aeration can change the form of these compounds to mono or di-sulphides, which may have a higher sensory threshold, leading you to believe you have removed the problem VSC. This however, might be only a temporary situation. Dimethyl sulphide is likely to be in all wines and at low concentrations contributes fruity and complex aromas to a wine. All of these low boiling point compounds can be removed using copper. It is important to note however, that copper will remove all VSCs, including those positive varietal thiols. It appears that VSCs can adsorb onto yeast lees, so the use of fresh, clean or dried lees combined with stirring could be a viable alternative that is less intrusive . The higher boiling point compounds are far more difficult to remove as they are more stable and the disulphide bond needs to
Efficiency starts here...
be broken before further remedial action can be taken. These compounds include ethyl disulphide, diethyl disulphide and dimethyl disulphide. The latter two compounds are thought to be formed as oxidation of the more volatile mercaptans, as demonstrated in Figure 2 below. Figure 2 clearly demonstrates the impact that the redox potential can have on formation and reformation of VSCs (and thus the aroma changes). Redox potential is lower in tanks than in barrels
and it is at its lowest in the bottom of the vessel. Lees stirring is a very effective way of altering the redox potential to prevent reductive conditions. The redox potential is especially important to consider when preparing for bottling, particularly under screwcap. This topic and a review of VSCs during aging will be covered in a later article. ■ There are a number of references cited in this article. If you would like more information feel free to contract Kirsten on - Kirsten.Creasy@hill-labs.co.nz
Figure 2
Figure 2 Formation of disulphides from the oxidation of methanethiol. Note the sensory threshold differences.
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NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014
WHAT’S IN A NAME? I
n 2012, Hawke’s Bay winegrowers received some worrying news: their good name, built from decades of toil and talent, was being ripped off. Wine was being sold in China as hailing from the Bay, though it had never been anywhere near New Zealand vineyards. And local growers could just imagine what that imposter might taste like. It may have been a false alarm, and nobody since then has gone on the record to say that local wine has been counterfeited. But the issue is of deep concern to many Kiwi exporters, including winemakers. James Medina, the executive officer of Hawke’s Bay Winegrowers Association, is in no doubt of the threat of counterfeiters, particularly in China. “It’s going to be an issue at some point, for someone,” he says. “It’s not ‘if’, but ‘when’.” The statistics of counterfeiting make alarming reading. The most recent OECD estimate dates from 2007, when it says crossborder counterfeiting totalled around US$250 billion annually and almost two percent of global trade was counterfeit. Others put the figure much higher: the International Chamber of Commerce says it’s US$1 trillion annually. The wine industry is a major victim. Last year, a French newspaper claimed one bottle in five is counterfeit. Today, French and Italian growers are the main targets of counterfeiters, but as New Zealand’s reputation grows, the risk increases. There are several ways of protecting against counterfeiting. The
most common method is using difficult-to-reproduce stickers that authenticate a product, similar to the way money is identified with special paper, watermarks and metal strips. But this method is expensive and takes an expert to definitively say something is real or isn’t — hardly a consumerfriendly solution. Local company Expander is taking a different approach: placing an individual identifying code on every single product. Expander uses QR codes, which have had limited uptake in New Zealand, but are widely used in Asian countries, including China, and can be scanned with any smartphone. Each scan is checked against a
TM
database of valid codes so the purchaser can be assured that they’re about to buy the real deal. Expander’s programme discourages counterfeiters, who will always go after easy targets. CEO Erwin Versleijen puts it like this: “Consumer counterfeiters profit from the reputation built by others, and they don’t particularly care whose reputation they mess with. They make a risk-versus-benefit calculation and, like all criminals, they prey on the weak. If you have protections in place that make it more difficult to copy a product or more likely to be caught — or ideally both — then they’ll target someone else.” And defending against counterfeiters can have an unexpected, positive upside, he says. “Actively protecting your brand is a wonderful way of demonstrating to consumers that you care deeply about your product and your reputation,” he says. “You’re kicking off a conversation based on trust, rather than a run-
of-the-mill marketing message.” For Expander, that means taking the opportunity when a product is validated to also immediately provide consumers with useful information like tasting notes, product reviews and the winemaker’s history and terroir. People can also register to receive more information in future, or follow the winemaker on Facebook or Twitter. Anne-Marie Sutton, general manager of Rapid Labels, has partnered with Expander to offer Expander codes on the labels they print for many Kiwi winemakers. “We think it’s a great idea and we’ll make it as easy as possible for our customers to take advantage of the programme,” she says. “It’s a virtuous circle — the more Kiwi exporters who are protecting their brand like this, the better our reputation will become for all of us. We’d love to see New Zealand exports known as the most credible products on the planet.” ■
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NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014 // 21
YOUNG GUNS
Brought to you by
THE YOUTH OF MARTINBOROUGH How Long Have You Worked In Martinborough?
What Do You Most Enjoy About Your Job?
the best of both worlds.
On and off since 2002
The whole process is what got me really excited about wine. Tending to the vines from pruning through to harvest, to making the wine in the winery, and then finishing up with a delicious glass of Riesling or Pinot thinking, I made that!
Botrytis spreads overnight in the Syrah and we lose half our crop.
What Brought You To The Region? My parents bought a bare paddock just south of Martinborough (Dry River Rd) in 1992 and planted it in 1996. I was finishing my high schooling in Wellington at that time but spent a lot of my weekends in Martinborough helping out. Following study for 4 years at Otago Uni I decided to come and work permanently on the vineyard for a year before travelling. That’s when I got the bug for the wine industry. Where Have You Travelled In Wine To Get Here? I did a number of vintages as cellar rat at our family winery before heading off overseas on my OE. After gallivanting across the globe for a number of years I decided it was time to get back into wine, starting with a vintage in Burgundy at Domaine de Courcel in 2006. It was then on to studying so I applied, and got into, the post graduate course in Oenology at Adelaide University (formerly known as Roseworthy). I spent a year and a half studying and discovering the world of great Australian wine where I was employed by Penfolds Magill Estate in the restaurant/cellar door and occasionally in the winery. I returned to Burgundy in 2008 for another vintage and then it was back home to Coney Wines where I have been the wine maker for the last 5 years.
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What Do You Enjoy Most About The Region? I fell in love with South Wairarapa when I first came here and after travelling all over the world I could think of no better place to live, work and bring up a family. It is a bonus that what I am passionate about is one of the main industries here so I consider myself to be very lucky. Plus I get to interact with some of the most respected and well known winemakers in the industry, there is great comeraderie in the region and everyone here is always willing to help in any shape or form. If one wins we all win type of thing….GO MARTINBOROUGH!
It Sucks When….?
Your Favourite Wine? RIESLING!!! I was recently lucky enough to attend a vertical of Rieslings made over 20 years by one of our local producers Roger Parkinson at Nga Waka. The freshness and vibrancy of some of the vintages was just astounding, a real treat to be involved in. Which Wine Region Excites You Most Right Now?
Lately I have been drinking some beautiful wines coming out of Waipara so I am keen to do some more exploring around there. Future Aspirtions? We are really interested at looking into turning more towards an organic management strategy in the vineyard. On the winemaking side of things I am really passionate about Riesling and it’s greatness and longevity as a wine so my main aim there is to get out and get more people understanding and enjoying Riesling I guess. ■
When You’re Not Making Wine Or Growing Grapes? I have 2 small children and one on the way so my days off (haha) are spent hanging out with my wonderful partner and our beautiful little family. We are quite outdoorsy and love a good adventure and South Wairarapa is home to an abundance of great things to do. From fishing down at Ngawi, to 4WD, jetboating and waterskiing on the rivers plus Wellington is only an hour away so we consider ourselves to have
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014
LISA CONEY AGE: 34 TITLE: WINEMAKER/GENERAL D O G S B O DY AT C O N E Y W I N E S
How Long Have You Worked In Martinborough? Since October 2008 What Brought You To Martinborough? Pinot Noir Where Have You Travelled In Wine To Get Here? I grew up in NSW and studied wine science in Wagga Wagga at CSU. I have worked in the Margaret River, Hunter Valley, Coonawarra, Santa Ynez Valley, LanguedocRoussillon, Napa Valley, Hawkes Bay and Burgundy. What Do You Enjoy Most About Your Job? The uniqueness of every season, no season is ever
the same. What Do You Enjoy Most About Martinborough? The wine and being so close to Wellington When You’re Not Making Wine Or Growing Grapes? Hanging out with my wife and daughter, and enjoying the outdoors. It Sucks When…. It’s blowing a gale Your Favourite Wine ? Wine with character Which Wine Region Excites You Most Right Now? Burgundy Future Aspirations?
HUW KINCH AGE 29 TITLE WINEMAKER – ESCARPMENT WINES
To make wine with character. ■
Get WIREd ~
is here
battersby ass 12x4
wine people are our business
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014 // 23
How Long Have You Worked In Martinborough? 4 years What Brought You To Martinborough? Born and raised in the Wairarapa Where Have You Travelled In Wine To Get Here? United States, Central Otago, South France What Do You Enjoy Most About Your Job? Getting to be part of the whole process from growing the grapes to making the wine and finally drinking it. What Do You Enjoy Most About Martinborough? PHILLIP MCARTHUR AGE 30 T I T L E : A S S I S TA N T W I N E M A K E R , M A R T I N B O R O U G H V I N E YA R D
How Long Have You Worked In Martinborough?
close and compact, yet only an hour away from Wellington.
6 years on and off, but permanently now for half a year.
When You’re Not Making Wine Or Growing Grapes?
What Brought You To Martinborough? I have always enjoyed the Martinborough style of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (my favourite varieties). Where Have You Travelled In Wine To Get Here? Hawke’s Bay, Nelson, Oregon and Burgundy. What Do You Enjoy Most About Your Job? Working with soils and vineyards that I’m familiar with, then seeing what they ultimately produce in the bottle. What Do You Enjoy Most About Martinborough? The size: everything is
24 //
The great outdoors When You’re Not Making Wine Or Growing Grapes?
I’m drinking wine and brewing beer. It Sucks When… We get a strong nor-wester. Your Favourite Wine? I generally lean towards more elegant-styled wines. Which Wine Region Excites You Most Right Now? Burgundy: it has an interesting and complex history and structure, and produces such diverse wines. Future Aspirations? To start a small winery producing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. ■
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014
CHRIS REID AGE: 24 T I T L E : A S S I S TA N T W I N E M A K E R – ATA R A N G I
Hanging out with Angus my 1 year old and fishing. It Sucks When…. A tropical cyclone hits in the middle of vintage. Your Favourite Wine? Changes every day. Right now – good Chablis, tomorrow probably something different. Which Wine Region Excites You Most Right Now? Martinborough – a few exciting changes happening around here at the moment and I’m sure that’s what I’m supposed to say. Future aspirations? Keeping on in the Wairarapa region and being part of the future for the region. ■
SOMMELIER’S CORNER CAMERON DOUGLAS MS
LIBRARY PINOT NOIR
O
f the many questions directed to Sommeliers, wine writers and industry professionals – a couple of the recurring ones are: “How long can I keep this wine for?” and “Will it get better with age?” The answers are, of course, dependent upon many factors – including overall quality, grape variety, vintage, wine making and storage conditions. Those who have the patience for doing so, and the opportunity to test the results of keeping wines for an extended period may be pleasantly surprised or bitterly disappointed – it depends! Recently I was able to participate in a formal assessment of aged Martinborough Pinot Noir - and it was a great chance to explore the answers to some of those questions in good company. Wines of Martinborough invited members of the Wine Writers of New Zealand Association to reacquaint themselves with the region, and taste through some 2013 barrel/tank samples of Pinot Noir; followed by an afternoon of evaluating library wines from 1996 to 2003. The afternoon demonstrated that there is much to be learned about the characters of regional Pinot Noir (there were many highlights in the tasting) – those that evolve or stand the test of time, and those that do not. Oak, for example, can be a powerful and staunch component; acidity, if it stands the test of time, can keep the heart of a wine beating and the fruit flavours alive; the wines can be mature and developed, and offer a kiss of a time gone by. Bret-
tanomyces was only mentioned once, and for only one wine, and the old delicate charm that aged Pinot Noir can display was a pleasant surprise to many. All wines were tasted blind and revealed at the end of each flight after discussion. The first four were a ’96 – from a hot dry vintage – fragile yet stable bouquet, dried fruits, savoury complexity on palate with an old Martinborough signature of strawberry and spice; ’99 – from a wet vintage – this had fruit but only just, an old savoury
complexity with brandied fruit layer, and was noticeably dry, with silty clay notes; ’02 – from an ideal vintage – one of two wines with a ‘red’ core, floral, delicate and intriguing with dried herbs, secondary and tertiary fruit and fine tannins with medium acidity; and ’03 – from an ideal vintage – I detected some whole bunch savoury notes, a fruit core, a strong heart beat, floral, delicate and subtle, velvet tannins and charming. When they were revealed as Ata Rangi, I was quietly cheering the
’02 and ’03 under screw top. Martinborough Vineyards ’98 was excellent with a blood red and ruby core, old roses, a delightful savoury complexity, fine yet drying tannins and ‘good’ acidity. Palliser’s ’00 was a little tired, yet intriguing with savoury earthy flavours, acidity and oak drive – there was a synergy and length on the palate. Margrain and Escarpment ’02 examples were extremely fragile and were perhaps better just a couple of years ago. That said, there was a lesson in careful oak selection and acidity to be learned – both wines held on to these components well. The Murdoch James Blue Rock ’98 triumphed over the ’02 – despite the brown hues the ’98 had fruit and oak, albeit very delicate, and a dry yet complex finish - an example of oak longevity and acidity promoted by limestone and vineyard elevation. Seventeen wines in total were tasted provoking plenty of panel discussion. The lesson most learned by this writer is that New Zealand Pinot Noir can age if vintage, quality of fruit and wine making skills are harnessed harmoniously together; and none of this will count if the wines are not cellared thoughtfully and well. The plateau for Pinot Noir begins somewhere around 8 years and this is arguably dependent upon vine age, vineyard management, pH and use of oak. After this experience, and looking at the quality our winemakers are producing, I am optimistic that top examples of 2013 should be enjoyed till 2030 and perhaps beyond. ■
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014 // 25
WINE NEWS
CHARDONNAY RENAISSANCE TESSA NICHOLSON
I
f Australia is one of the renowned producers of Chardonnay, then James Halliday has to be the wine writer with his finger on the pulse of the variety. The renowned author, judge and critic was special guest at a Chardonnay tasting held earlier this year, by the Family of 12. Chairman William Hoare says the reason this particular variety was chosen was due to it being the one white grape variety that all members make and love. “We all know Chardonnay expresses its sites, soils and winemakers, which is why everyone loves it. Amongst all the Family members, we have seen a definite resurgence and interest, so as a Family we decided we would focus our efforts on the Renaissance of Chardonnay as it is such a great variety especially
in New Zealand. ” With nearly all the New Zealand Masters of Wine present, it was the perfect opportunity to get some professional insight into the specific nuances emanating from this country. But this was no one sided affair, given the 12 Family Chardonnays were pitted against some of the great Burgundies, including Corton Charlemagne, Puligny Montrachet, Meursault, Chablis Premium Cru, Chassagne Montrachet and even a Batard Montrachet. The wines were grouped into three flights of six, based on their style. Their prices ranged from $40 to $400 per bottle and they had all been decanted into clean-skin bottles before each flight so the audience could get no clues as to what they were. NZWinegrower spoke to James Halliday after the event.
How real is the re-emergence of Chardonnay as a fashionable wine style? I can only personally speak with assurance from the Australian perspective, and it is very real here. But I am confident that the same dynamics are in play in New Zealand, whether looked at from the consumer’s viewpoint, or from that of the winemakers.
What have wine makers learned from the fashion down-turn of the past? Wine is unlike any other form of alcohol. Every vintage brings a new opportunity or challenge, and the obligation of the winemaker is to make the best possible wine in that context. That of a beer maker or a spirits maker is to produce the same beer or spirit week in, week
out, month in, month out, year in, year out. Having made that distinction, there can always be a temptation for winemakers to become carried away with new flavours, chase alcohol levels up or down, become profligate in their use of oak, and so on, and so forth. We have seen it all before in California, then in Australia, and thereafter in New Zealand. Thus the lesson to be learnt is to think hard about the dangers of building flavour up, and this certainly happened in the three countries I have mentioned with Chardonnay. But even that gives rise to a further lesson. In pulling back from excess oak and excess alcohol, it is possible to go too far in the other direction, and produce thin, skinny lookalikes of Sauvignon Blanc. Put another way, hasten slowly, and constantly try to
Three MWs , from left Alastair Maling, Michael Brajkovich and Steve Smith to the right, with the great James Halliday, make up the tasting panel.
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NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014
The Family of 12 with James Halliday.
benchmark yourself against the greatest wines the world produces.
How did New Zealand’s wines hold up against the rest of the tasting? Very well indeed, and this came as no surprise to me, because we had been seeing the same exercises in Australia over the past five years, and been fortified with the knowledge we have gained. The tasting was blind, and experienced tasters know the folly of trying to guess which wines are which, and rate them accordingly. This ends in disaster more often than not, so
you should strictly consider the quality of the wine before you, and actively seek to put out of your mind who might have made it until your quality judgement has been written in stone. Having reached this stage, by all means then try to pin the tail on the donkey. For the past 13 years I have been one of the Tutors at the Len Evans Tutorials, and each morning for the first four days the Scholars are given 30 wines to taste and mark as if they were in a wine show. With Chardonnay, there have always been New Zealand, Burgundian, Californian and Australian
Chardonnays, with sometimes an oddity out of Italy or elsewhere. The Burgundies will always include a number of Grand Crus. Villla Maria Keltern Chardonnay has been highly acclaimed on a number of occasions (different vintages, of course) with higher aggregate points than some of the Grand Cru white Burgundies, other Australasian Chardonnays have also done very well. On a broader front, the quality of top end New Zealand Chardonnay has been well recognised in Australia for the past 10 years or more.
Were there any strong trends in wine making styles? If so what were they? Both in Australia and New Zealand there has been a distinct move away from Chardonnays with overt oak, and, within reason, reducing the alcohol levels. Experience already shows that proceedingly blindly down the path of lower alcohol can strip the wine of its essential character. One point of disagreement, both by winemakers within Australia and by winemakers within New Zealand, is how much
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014 // 27
reduction (described as the smell of freshly burnt match or struck flint) in the bouquet of Chardonnay is acceptable. Some like the character, others dislike it, and yet others are blind to it. It was much more prevalent in the white Burgundies of 20 or more years ago, and one of the reasons that the New World – Australia and New Zealand in particular – are starting to show up so well against white Burgundies (as in this tasting) is that the Burgundian makers have realised they needed to make cleaner wines with lower
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sulphur levels. This has had an unintended consequence for them of increasing premature oxidation, but that’s a story for another day.
Lessons for the future? There can never be too many tastings such as this, particularly where you are preaching to the sceptics. Preaching to the converted is heartwarming but of little tangible value.
With nearly every wine producing country in the world producing
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014
Chardonnay - what does New Zealand have to do to stand out on the world stage? Be true unto itself. Chardonnay is the most malleable of all white wine varieties, and on equal footing with Shiraz when it comes to red wines. Both of these varieties can succeed in a wide variety of climate and soil; both can be strongly influenced by the methods and philosophies of the winemakers; and the mere fact that there are so many Chardonnays (and Shirazs)
being made inevitably means there will be a diversity of style and quality. The best wines will be those where the place and the variety speak more loudly than the will of the winemaker. This, if you like, is another way of saying great wine is made in the vineyard, but whichever proposition you wish to take, it is only half true. You can only make truly great wine if you start with truly great grapes. ■ tessa.nicholson@me.com
REGIONS NELSON
BRANCHING OUT NEIL HODGSON
W
hen Greg and Amanda Day purchased their first wine business in 1998 it was always going to be the beginning of something larger. Kahurangi Estate is now much more than a fine wine producer, it is the public face of a business with many arms. The vineyards of Kahurangi Estate at Upper Moutere are the home of the modern winemaking era in Nelson, contain some of the oldest vines in the region and proved to be the perfect platform to start from. It is the site of the original Seifried Estate, which has now relocated to their purpose built Waimea Plains winery.
The Day’s had significant marketing and business management experience but no winemaking experience prior to purchasing and establishing Kahurangi Estates. Greg has been involved in the liquor industry for most of his working life with his last job in the industry before taking the plunge into ownership, being as National Sales and Export Manager for Allied Liquor. As a draughtswomen Amanda brings design and management skills to the business as well as overseeing the management of the cellar door, café and vineyard cottage accommodation. She also has a key role in all of the market-
ing, both local and national as well as international. While Kahurangi Estates grow grapes and make wine, they also bottle wine for others, they store and distribute wine for a number of wineries and finally they import and distribute a wide range of premium international wines. Their theory is, that if you have a sales team on the road selling wine you may as well give them plenty of things to sell. Back in 1998 one of the first things the Days recognised was that the original vineyards were small and to be a truly economic operation they would need to source fruit from growers and
plant more of their own vines. They also had to decide between having their wines made under contract, or refitting the old winery. They chose to refit, with an ability to expand over time. Currently the barrel hall provides capacity to make 60,000 cases of wine, allowing them to make wine under contract for other producers. Two of the first significant additions to Kahurangi Estates were to open a café at the winery (Christmas1999) to enhance the cellar door and the renovation of a cottage on the home vineyard to use as high quality visitor accommodation. In 2001 they planted
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the Five Oaks Vineyard on the other side of the Upper Moutere Village and embarked on the first of three winery upgrades. Kahurangi International Selections became the first new arm for the emerging group of businesses controlled by the Days when they were appointed as the New Zealand distributors for Tyrrell’s Wines from Australia in 2005. The growth of the Kahurangi International Selections business was driven by personal relationships with family owned wineries around the world and was so successful, storage quickly became a problem. However behind every problem is an opportunity and in 2009 Vinpro Distribution was added to the group of businesses with the purchase of a 1400+ square metre wine storage facility in Tahunanui,
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NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014
The Day Family, Sam, Greg and Amanda.
Nelson. Formally named Vinpro Nelson Limited it is a wine logistics and distribution business that has expanded by opening an Auckland based distribution centre this year to compliment the Nelson operation and is about to be rebranded as Vinpro Liquor Distributors. Vinpro Nelson Limited also provides a mobile bottling unit, providing services to wineries across the top of the South Island. Vinpro employs a manager and other staff while Greg and Amanda, along with the independent directors, provide governance at a Board level. Greg says; “We had been the New Zealand distributors for Tyrrell’s for several years when we employed the son of a Cognac producer to work for us over vintage, We were invited to his wedding the following year where his
father said he was looking for a New Zealand distributor for their Godet Cognac products. Of course we said we would take on the task. At the same wedding we met the father of the Bride who also happens to be the current head of the family owned Mahler-Besse who was also looking for a distributor in New Zealand. Mahler-Besse own the French brand Chateaux Palmer. Chateaux d’yquem and the Baron Philippe de Rothschild owned Mouton Cadet are some of the other premium brands we distribute in New Zealand. Mouton Cadet is reputedly the biggest selling Bordeaux wine in the world. With wines from all wine regions of France we now have a significant portfolio of premium French wines to distribute.” So what about the future? Greg says; “It’s important we remember
our key reason for existence, to make and sell branded products people want.” By establishing a significant distribution business based on their own wines with the addition of complimentary rather than competing international brands, the modest sized (annual production of around 40,000 cases) Kahurangi Estate can compete successfully for shelf and wine list space with the large brands. From here it is growth but not at any cost Greg says. “We need to focus on delivering a quality product, be that product wines we make or bottling and distribution services we deliver. Also look for significant wine brands from Marlborough and Hawke’s Bay that will be added to Vinpro Liquor Distributors next year.” ■ neil@hodgson.net.nz
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014 // 31
BOB’S BLOG BOB CAMPBELL MW
Celebrating Pinot Central Otago Pinot Noir Ltd (COPNL) held its tenth Pinot Noir celebration in January. I have, apparently, attended all but the very first. The weather co-operated by sugar-coating some of the taller mountains with snow while giving us cloudless skies and shirt-off temperatures. It was a spectacular setting in which to taste many great wines from the outstanding 2012 vintage. A group of wine trade visitors from China will return to their mostly smog-bound cities with many very positive impressions of this country. It is easy to underestimate the influence that such a visit can have on overseas markets. Over thirty years ago I was battling to sell New Zealand wine to the largest supermarket group in southern California perhaps because the wine buyer was rumoured to be in the pay of the local wine distributor that got all of the supermarket’s business. By chance I met the supermarket boss who’d just returned from his first trip to New Zealand and had fallen in love with the country.
He invited me to bypass the buyer and give him my sales pitch. The resulting sale gave New Zealand wines a lot of credibility in California. Nine more supermarket chains followed suit.
Trinity Hill’s new owner
Penfolds impresses
Trinity Hill’s owners, UK-domiciled Robert and Robyn Wilson, have sold a share of the winery to US winery owner, Charles Banks. Banks owns and distributes some of California’s highest profile wineries including Mayacama, Qupé and Sandi and was once an owner of cult winery, Screaming Eagle. He also owns the leading South African winery Mulderbosch. I met Banks at a winery function where he talked with enthusiasm about his plans to build a new boutique premium winery for high quality reds. Banks told me that if any Trinity Hill wine was not amongst the region’s top four or five, or lacked the potential to be in that league, it was in danger of being dropped from their product range. His enthusiasm, quality focus, US distribution network and, of course, investment, will clearly make a valuable contribution to this highly regarded Hawke’s Bay winery.
The venue for this year’s prestige Penfolds wine release was their Magill restaurant near Adelaide. The artfully orchestrated wine tasting was conducted by the impresario himself, Peter Gago, a man who probably has a stronger perceived link with Grange than its inventor, Max Schubert. While 2009 Grange was clearly meant to be the tasting highlight it was slightly upstaged, in my tasting notes at least, by a truly outstanding St Henri Shiraz and perennially perfect RWT 2011 Barossa Valley Shiraz. Penfolds 50 Year Old Tawny was also pretty good, as you’d expect for a wine carrying a price tag of NZ$3,762 at three Sydney duty free stores. I estimate that the value of wine in my glass was $250. The tasting was followed by lunch featuring 1995 Krug (en magnum), 1997 Chateau D’Yquem and some goodies from Penfolds cellar including 1994 and 1964 Grange and 1994 Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon. Although red wines were a dominant feature of the tasting we reviewed some pretty spectacular whites including an outstanding 2011 Yattarna Chardonnay. “Yattarna” is an aboriginal word meaning “little by little” and suggesting gradual refinement. Penfolds have been doing just that by selecting an ever greater proportion of cool climate grapes from Tasmania – now 96%. My suggestion that if they wanted a truly cool climate Chardonnay they could always look to New Zealand was not well received.
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NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014
China As if leaving an Auckland summer to bask in a Chinese winter wasn’t bad enough the headline in Mail Online warned “Chinese smog is so bad it’s like a “nuclear winter” that’s even stopping plants photosynthesis”. With some apprehension I stepped off the plane in Shanghai to discover only moderate pollution. Luckily I didn’t throw away my face mask. Air pollution when I arrived in Beijing was 444 micrograms per cubic meter. To put that in perspective up to 50 is good, over 300 is hazardous and above 500 a state of emergency is called and the city shuts down. Light rain and a strong wind cleared the air to an acceptable 25 the following morning. Beijing residents celebrated the sort of air they take for granted in Central Otago.
One downside of air pollution is that pigs lungs become a popular menu item – they are supposed to do for your breathing what bull’s penis does for your sex life. As the honoured guest at a banquet I was invited to tuck into a plate of pigs lungs. It is one of the few delicacies that requires a stiff drink beforehand rather than something to savour with. At the same banquet I dined on baby frogs (quite tasty but don’t look at them) and jellyfish, which I am now starting to get a taste for. My two-and-a-half week tour involved teaching wine tutors a Level Two New Zealand Wine Course. Successful graduates can then teach their own students Level One New Zealand Wine.
Miracle in Macau I was invited to host a New Zealand dinner at the Golden Dragon restaurant in the City of Dreams hotel in Macau. The hotel’s director of wines, food and beverage, Frenchman Mathieu Gaignon, had selected all the wines.
I’d tasted them all but one, 2002 Providence from Matakana, a wine with cult status in Macau, Hong Kong and parts of China. It was a truly remarkable wine and the hit of the night, despite being in the company of
many classic Kiwi labels. When Jim Vuletic founded Providence in 1990 he aimed to make the best Bordeaux style red outside France. His 2002 vintage must come pretty close to achieving that lofty ambition. ■
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NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014 // 33
VINEYARD NEWS
VINEYARD TAKES SOUTH ISLAND TITLE TESSA NICHOLSON
“Think boldly, tread lightly and never say it can’t be done”. That is the motto of the 2013 South Island Farmer of the Year, Peter Yealands. Only the second wine company to take out the title in its 29year history, Peter Yealands of Yealands Estate in Marlborough impressed the judges with his innovation, entrepreneurial skills and vision. The competition is run by the Lincoln University Foundation, with a goal of promoting and encouraging New Zealand farmers who contribute to the development of New Zealand’s land based businesses. With innovation the theme of the competition, Foundation Chair Ben Todhunter says Peter Yealands stood out. “The statement of think boldly and never say it can’t be done, really encapsulates Peter and the whole way he has gone about this vineyard.”
Based at Seaview, just out of Seddon, Yealands Estate has 1000 hectares planted, making it the largest privately owned vineyard in the country. The first plot of land was bought in 2000, a mere 120 hectares. In the next six years Yealands bought another seven properties, gradually planting them out. Initially he sold his grapes on the spot market, but in 2006 having seen the writing on the wall for fruit prices, he decided to build his own winery. It was the first in the world to be CarboNZero from conception. His first wines were released in 2008, and five years later they are sold in more than 65 countries. While sustainability has earned him numerous national and international awards, it was his ability to think outside the square and be innovative that wowed the judges in the South Island Farmer of the Year Competition.
Peter Yealands
The baled vine prunings, which when burned heat water and glycol in the winery.
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NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014
Chief Judge Nicky Hyslop said; “He demonstrated outstanding innovation inside and outside of the winery business. That was backed up by sound business practices integrated into every aspect of the operation, and a holistic ‘vine to bottle’ approach. Peter showed he was a visionary and had the will and the tenacity to convert that into a successful farm business enterprise.” Some of the more innovative ideas that caught the judges’ attention were; Autonomous tractor – a tractor that works with programmable GPS and can operate without a driver Baled vine prunings used as a renewable energy source within the winery. Each 200 kg bale when burned provides the equivalent heat of approxi-
mately 60kg of LPG Creating own Bio Char from chipped vine prunings and grape marc, that can be added to compost for vineyard Making 40,000 tonnes of compost on site to fertilise the vines The introduction of Baby Doll sheep to help keep grass down and save on mowing costs Utilising hydrogen generators in tractors to cut down on fuel emissions The announcement of Yealands’ win was made late last year, and a field day held at the vineyard in February attracted close to 200 people from all over the South Island. Along with the title, Yealands was awarded a $20,000 grant toward overseas travel or study, research, marketing or a combination of these. He also received $5000 for winning the Silver Fern Farms ‘Plate to Pasture’ award and $5000 for the Lincoln University award for best use of technology and innovation. ■ tessa.nicholson@me.com
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NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014 // 35
LOOKING BACK
FROM COLD DUCK TO ALBARINO A contemporary history of wine in New Zealand – beginning with the 1970’s - by veteran writer Peter Saunders (who no doubt drank them all!)
1
970 – and the New Zealand wine industry was ticking along, albeit very slowly. Around 25 winemakers were spread throughout Northland, West Auckland and Hawke’s Bay, although there are few records to confirm this. There were also very few New Zealand table wines at the time. Yes there was Cresta Doré, Bakano from McWilliams and as the decade progressed, names like Moselle, Sauterne and Hock joined the white wine list and Claret and Burgundy showed up on the red
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list. My first official wine judging, the Auckland A&P Easter Show as it was in the 1970s, began with this brief for the weekend’s judging: ‘This morning we will do the dry sherries, after lunch the medium and the sweet sherries, Sunday morning the ports and the cocktails and there are a handful of table wines to fit in as we can.’ Indeed, the result book from 1973 shows 17 pages of fortifieds with barely a page of dry reds, dry whites and the odd Moselle. A couple of cocktails and grape juice completed the list.
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014
This was the weekend’s work, done in good humour by what could be described as industry ‘characters’. Thirteen out of 20 got a bronze back then and the late George Mazuran took a good share of the medals available. Yet such a breakdown of judging, shows where we were up to at that time. New Zealand was fortified country in the early 1970s. Fun times? Perhaps. But certainly not the industry we see today. As the decade progressed, along came Cold Duck, an earthquake of a wine. ‘They made wine taste like
Coca Cola’ protested one older industry stalwart. His statement resulted in a court injunction, and a writ that continued to those of us who repeated it. Montana advertising at the time celebrated the sale of one million bottles of Cold Duck. A sweet red sparkling, almost certainly a blend (it took less than 10% of red juice to colour 90% white) and a little carbon dioxide had the industry singing. It was many people’s first taste of the grape. Perhaps thousands were conceived on it in New Zealand alone.
Cold Duck ultimately became unfashionable; 10 brands were available in its hey-day. Brands like Wild Duck and Wild Turkey from the Spence boys dad at McLeod Road. All were lightly sweet and easy to drink when served cool. For many this was the beginning of a change to wine as a preferred alcoholic beverage. But there were others waiting in the wings. Montana produced Poulet Poulet (9% alcohol) to go with Petit Pourlet (essentially all orange juice) sold to convey the image, but alcohol free – thus accessible to television advertising before any alcoholic drink was allowed in such places! There was another style waiting in the wings however, slowly taking over from Cold Duck. Called simply ‘Pearl’ here was a sparkling style, gassed to about three atmospheres. It was a relief to those tiring of Cold Duck and Poulet Poulet. Yet there was more to come. Pearl, a sub-brand absorbed by several
wine companies with its bulbshaped, almost Chianti-like bottle was what we would call today ‘spritzig’ with its light sweetness and fruit bowling along in support. Above the cellars, there was more work going on. The hybrid grapes, French-American crosses with names and numbers (Baco 22a, Siebel 5437 etc) and the arrival of Muller Thurgau brought those who began wine sipping on Cold Duck and Pearl to another level. Montana led with Bernkaizler, a style called ‘back-blended’ because it had unfermented grape juice added to give a light sweetness. Alcohol was about 10-11%. Muller Thurgau was the unintended trick for many winemakers who had been used to as much as 20 tonne (or more) of the hybrid varieties of the time. Muller Thurgau bridged the yield gap, still high by today’s terms, but more feasible to a grape grower and winemaker. Still upwards of 15 tonnes per hectare became more acceptable if we had
to leave the hybrids’ bounty behind. With a fruity, off-dry and pleasantly spritzig taste, the wine was called variously Riesling Sylvaner or Sylvaner Riesling, sometimes simply ‘Riesling’. Technically incorrect but we were all new to table wine in New Zealand. Eventually Muller Thurgau took off, a class made for it in the wine competitions and the debate about whether we hyphenated Riesling and Sylvaner whichever way around, dropped away. Wine making education was strictly father to son to grandson. Alex Corban became the first to gain a degree in winemaking at
Roseworthy College in Adelaide. Montana emerged as the industry leader, not only in volume but also ideas. A band of Australian companies, McWilliams, Penfolds, Seppelt, drew local shareholders, mostly ‘wholesalers’ into their fold. Gradually each moved away, the needs of the Australian wine industry calling for all available assets to be brought home for domestic expansion. Yet there was another step in this 1970’s evolution. Having liked the gaiety of Cold Duck there was a public liking for sparklings, and two wines took the spot-light. McWilliams Marque Vue showed a liking
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014 // 37
for people and Corbans Premiere Cuvee showed Alex Corban had it sorted in his mind, to try the cuvéclose or Charmet sparkling method in New Zealand. Wine correspondent for the Auckland Star newspaper Michael Brett, thought that when Marque Vue went above three dollars in the wine shop, that would be its downfall. But, he wondered, where are the Chardonnays? Indeed, that was a discovery to come. The yield the first problem. ‘How can we make wine for $2.50 when the grapevine produces so little?’ pondered the grape growers and wineries. From a farming
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community where payment was by the tonne of wool, beef or dairy solids, low yielding varieties didn’t make sense. So through the 1970s, we saw the evolution of Cold Duck, an assortment of sparkling wines, lightly sweet Muller Thurgau all bringing in a curious drinker. It helped that soldiers returning from the Mediterranean had something of an understanding of a glass of wine with dinner. Higher discretionary spending sent more New Zealanders on overseas travel and once again, the European tradition made an impression. Yet they came home to local
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014
Hock, Moselle, Dry White (and Red) Claret, Burgundy and even Beaujolais. Michael Brett was quick to grasp the trend and asked the head of the Government Te Kauwhata Research Station why, of all the varieties they were testing, Chardonnay was not included. The industry at that stage consisted of 30 winemakers around Auckland, some having moved down from Kaitaia in the north, plus a handful in Hawkes Bay. The two regional groups had little to do with each other. Then came another event of some eruption. Terry Dunleavy brought together the two groups, the New Zealand Wine Institute was formed. It may have been an umbrella of wineries to battle grape prices with the independent grape growers. Yet, amongst many achievements, including lobbying Government over licences and tax,
it also took over the running of the New Zealand Show Awards, then under sponsorship or governance by the Department of Trade and Industry. This was perhaps the biggest visible sign of a unanimous industry, even if there was still the Wine Institute (wine makers) and the Grape Growers and sometimes they didn’t see eye to eye. So in this hazy yet determind note, the wine industry finished the 1970s with a Wine Institute, a growing interest in table wines and grape growing to suit and some investor interest in this ‘new’ industry. The 1970s had brought a gear change, a conversion of some beer drinkers to wine, and an interest in what was behind wine. It was the beginning of the future – with much more to come. ■ Next issue Peter Saunders looks at the wines of the 80s.
REGIONS HAWKE’S BAY
FIRST EVER FIANO JOELLE THOMSON
H
awke’s Bay winemaker Jenny Dobson has made her first Fiano, which was released in December 2013 and made with grapes grown on the Bush Hawke Vineyard. Fiano is a traditional white grape variety of the Campania region in southern Italy, best known under its guise as Fiano di Avellino, made with grapes grown in the volcanic soils of Avellino, east of Naples. Dobson says the 2013 vintage was a small crop. She also encountered significant hen and chicken
issues within bunches, so there was an unevenness of growth and ripening. “I had also been warned by a friend who is experimenting with Fiano in Rutherglen to watch out for excessive acidity and we picked by hand with brix of 22.7.” Dobson says she first heard of the Fiano grape in 2006 when it was mentioned to her by Simon Ward; who was working at Te Awa at the time. “In 2009 Bryce and Adrienne Campbell of Bush Hawke vineyard in Ngatarawa Road asked what I
thought they should plant on a small piece of land that was fallow in their vineyard, so I suggested the volcanic soils and microclimate could be suitable for Fiano,” says Dobson, who was delighted when they told her later that Fiano was in the ground. “From my research and tasting of Fiano, I wanted to express the rich textural quality of the grape along with the lifted floral notes
of the variety, so I selected a yeast that I knew highlighted aromatics.” She fermented it in small stainless steel barrels without malolactic fermentation, using only bentonite for protein stability. The wine was then bottled at Unison Vineyard’s new bottling line and hand labelled by Adrienne and Bryce Campbell. ■ jthomson@xtra.co.nz
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HR AND THE WINE INDUSTRY PADDY BATTERSBY
WHEN IS A CONTRACTOR AN EMPLOYEE OR AN EMPLOYEE A CONTRACTOR?
T
here is still some misconception in the wine industry around the engagement of independent contractors v employees.
What is the difference? There are a number of tests the IRD and Courts use to decide. But first let’s look at the meaning of each term. An Independent Contractor is someone who works under a (written) Contract for Service
– it’s a commercial relationship between the Principal of a company and the person working. A contractor submits invoices, pays their own ACC and tax, has no entitlement to annual leave, public holidays or sick leave, often provides their own equipment, and in many cases can assign someone else to do the work. They may work for other people as well, and usually control their own hours of work. An Employee, as defined by the Employment Relations Act, is
any person of any age employed by an employer to do any work for hire or reward under a (written) Contract of Service (employment agreement). So, employees receive paid holidays, are usually provided with the equipment necessary to do the work, and need to turn up within certain hours as the employer requires. The landmark case of Bryson v Three Foot Six Ltd challenged the top employment lawyers in the country to decide whether
Mr Bryson was an employee or independent contractor. Eventually, after many appeals, it was decided that he was an employee. Since that time, this case is used as the basis for determining the status of independent contractors v employees. Whilst a signed contract stating the person will be a contractor (i.e. the parties’ intentions) is one factor taken into account, it is not a complete answer. The Authority can set this aside and
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look at the real nature of the arrangement.
The control test: Examines the level of control an “employer” has over what work is to be done and how it is to be done on a day-by-day basis. Control over such matters as materials/tools; who dictates the work hours/leave etc.; performance standards; rate and timing of payment. The more control a business owner has over the worker and the work, the more likely the relationship is to be an employment relationship (i.e. employee). It is consistent with a normal commercial arrangement that the principal/company can oversee the services provided by the contractor to ensure a certain quality of work and in some cases the work to be performed to be delivered within agreed time frames.
Integration test: Focuses on the level of dependence of the person’s activities and whether they are in business on their own account or whether they are an integral part of the business. An employment relationship is indicated if the business: Provides the work to be performed; provides the equipment; supervises the work performed; bears the cost associated with finding of and performing of the work; insures and indemnifies the service it provides; is readily identifiable as the service provider and no independent operation is discernable.
Fundamental test: Looks at who has taken on the risk associated with venturing into business for the desired gains to assess whether or not the person concerned is in business on their own account.
Sharing profits and losses. Contractors can structure their business around other commitments, priorities and obligations.
Independent test: How independently the individual works: Can they work for other people; do they supply their own equipment; do they invest or risk their own money in the activity? Are they effectively in business for themselves?
Intention test: What do the parties themselves intend the arrangement to be? Has it changed over time? Employers should be careful when thinking of taking on a contractor – what are your reasons? Avoidance of paying holiday and sick pay? Ability to terminate the contract at short notice and without giving reasons? Performance management? Are there elements in your contractor contract that are indicative of an employment relationship? When you take on a contractor, it’s usually at a higher hourly rate than if the person were an employee – you compensate them for not having to pay them holiday pay, sick leave, kiwisaver etc. And they can usually work for others. But, if one of your contractors is found to be an employee, no matter what your intentions, you could be liable to pay at least the additional 8% for holiday pay, and are then exposed to the possibility of the Personal Grievance process as well as taking them on to the payroll as a permanent employee. Always take professional advice to ensure you are not risk of muddling the categories. ■ Battersby HR Consulting www.battersbyhr.com
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NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014 // 41
WINE NEWS
NATIONAL RIESLING TASTING JO BURZYNSKA
“Riesling is rebellion!” was the battle cry of Framingham winemaker, Andrew Hedley when presenting his position of this noble but niche variety at the Summer of Riesling tasting held in Waipara in February. While initiatives such as The Summer of Riesling have been encouraging more people to try the variety, Hedley suggested it may be better to keep it underground. It’s another example of the everpresent Riesling conundrum: that the grape makes some of the finest wines in the world and is revered by critics and winemakers, but is yet to find popular appeal. Preconceptions play a major part in this, which kick in before any cork is pulled or screwcap snapped. Older drinkers connect it with insipid stuff that once went by the name of Riesling, but was often not even made from the grape, while many assume it’s all sweet and therefore unsophisticated. Starting with the question of quality. The reality is, Riesling has never been better; something
clearly illustrated by the National Riesling tasting, which showcased close to 80 examples from around the country. Participants gathered in Greystone’s vineyards for Riesling pep talk from Tongue in Groove’s Lynnette Hudson, before setting off down the newly opened Waipara cycle way that linked up the series of tastings that made up the day. Mountford was the next port of call where drier Rieslings were being shown. The dry end of the Riesling spectrum – which in this tasting was regarded as under 8g/l RS - is one where New Zealand can struggle to make convincing examples However, more wines than not in this category displayed silky rather than the harder acids that can be so unappealing in cool climate examples. And as the RS rose to off-dry the wines blossomed, with poise and a beautiful purity of fruit characterising many examples. Then it was off to Black Estate’s cellar door to sample medium
(20-50 g/l RS) and dessert expressions. This sweeter segment was again extremely impressive with the majority of wines showing good balance, intensity and real class, while every one of the small cluster of dessert wines were first rate. Later that evening at the Riesling Sundowner at P e g a s u s B a y, Waipara brought out some older examples. This included a 1999 from Muddy Water which was sprightly and savoury, with verticals of Pegasus Bay wines starting at 1998 with its Aria and 2001 for its classic Riesling displaying over a decade of graceful aging.
With very few duds and more than a handful of stellar examples overall, the National Riesling Tasting confirmed the country’s position as one of the world’s most exciting producers of the variety. I can’t think of a local tasting of these dimensions of any
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NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014
other variety where the quality was so high across the board. But now onto the “S word”, which is possibly Riesling’s greatest stumbling block. It’s a variety that’s made in every style imaginable, from bone dry to lusciously sweet. However, sweetness has sadly become a dirty word amongst wine drinkers and the likes of Framingham, one of many wineries that choose not to mention it by name on their labels for fear of putting people off. “Generous” and “richness” are the euphemisms Hedley admitted were used on his labels instead. But there’s nothing wrong with a bit of sweetness. However, with wine it’s become erroneously connected with the unsophisticated, when in fact it’s the people with the most wine knowledge who are largely the ones enjoying Riesling. Hedley thinks there may be more hope for Riesling with the
younger generation who don’t hold the prejudices of their parents and have more open minds. Call me foolishly optimistic, but I still think there’s hope for Riesling to be more widely appreciated, in a similar way Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris have witnessed in recent years. I’ve found that once people actually try Riesling they’re a convert, which is why I think the focus of the Summer of Riesling to get glasses of Riesling into people’s hands is such a good move. Given Riesling also expresses the place where it’s grown, arguably like no other white variety, it also taps into people’s growing interest in the authenticity and provenance of what they consume. Hedley proposes that it might be time to recognise New Zealand’s special vineyard sites as is the case in Riesling’s German heartland. However, he acknowledges that for
many drinkers getting their heads round this information is too much of a challenge for most. Hedley considers Riesling’s current somewhat esoteric status may have a silver lining in ensuring it doesn’t become dumbed down and keeps it cool. “I think Riesling should resist
the call for a renaissance and celebrity culture,” he maintained. “Things that enter the mainstream tend to get safe and boring. Riesling is much better than that.” ■ jo@joburzynska.com Adapted from a shorter piece first published in the New Zealand Herald’s Viva magazine
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014 // 43
MARKETING NEWS
ON BOARD THE RIESLING BUS JOELLE THOMSON
A
fter three years of going it alone, Summer of Riesling coordinators Angela Clifford and Duncan Forsyth now have the support of New Zealand Winegrowers – and hope to see it grow As the sun rose over the arid North Canterbury hills in early February this year, a half full bus wound its way up State Highway 1 to a post-Pinot Noir tasting. Some on board had been to Central Otago’s 2014 Pinot Noir Celebration; others had only just arrived in the South Island. All were destined for a long hot day of cool crisp whites at the country’s third National Riesling Tasting. This year was the first New Zealand Winegrowers had been part of the journey. Their staff coordinated the tasting logistics, promoted it to New Zealand wineries, collected information about the wines entered and collated tasting sheets. All which made Summer of Riesling co-cordinator, Angela Clifford’s job easier. “We’ve had important support from David Strada at New Zealand Winegrowers, who helped us to get Paul Grieco over to the country’s first Summer of Riesling and he has been very supportive throughout the campaign.” The logistics are no small task, however. Up until now, they have fallen entirely to two people with full time jobs, families and wineries to run – Duncan Forsyth of Mount Edward in Central Otago and Angela Clifford of Tongue in Groove wines in North Canterbury.
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“Summer of Riesling started as an idea about a grape variety that led to a different conversation about wine than the one we usually have in New Zealand; Riesling is such an obvious strength in this country, even though it grows in the shadow of another more commercially successful grape,” says Clifford. She and Forsyth hope to see the support of New Zealand Winegrowers grow. “My wish is to see New Zealand Winegrowers show outright support financially for Riesling - and Pinot Noir,” says Clifford. But there has been no profit in Summer of Riesling. It wasn’t designed to be profitable but to be informative, entertaining, fun – and to champion variety. So, what is the future of a movement which aims to champion diversity and quality in one fell swoop, but doesn’t generate profit as a result? Clifford says Summer of Ries-
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014
ling is intentionally under the radar and funds itself, but she would like to promote New Zealand Riesling to a wider media audience, both nationally and internationally. Summer of Riesling wineries contribute to the national tasting. This year there were 70 involved and 12 international media were funded by them to attend the grand finale – the National Riesling Tasting. The two local media (myself and fellow wine writer Jo Burzynska) were hosted by local wineries. There is strong support for Summer of Riesling from those who attend, but as Framingham winemaker and Riesling fanatic Andrew Hedley said, “Riesling doesn’t have to be just for summer. Where would I be in winter without a big, dry, full bodied Riesling with pork belly? That’s my ultimate comfort food.” Summer of Riesling began as
something of a subversive movement and is perhaps destined to remain that way but the quality of New Zealand’s best Rieslings continues to rise. As does the longevity of the wines in bottle, as decades’ worth of aged New Zealand Rieslings have proven. “I like the analogy of a river and the idea that the most interesting thing always happen on the edges,” says Clifford. “The interesting people and the crazy bastards are always on the edges and I think Riesling tends to attract those who have another perspective on things, which makes it important for an industry to support, especially one with so many eggs in one basket.” The Riesling bus may only have been half full, but the quality of the wines tasted – and the passion of the winemakers and media present – more than made up for that. ■ jthomson@xtra.co.nz
INDUSTRY NEWS
NEAL KINSEY TO RUN SOIL SEMINAR A
cross New Zealand in all farming sectors, including Viticulture, there is a need to reduce the inputs of acidifying soluble fertilizers that are prone to leaching and adversely effect the overall health of our soils and the biology within. Grape growing is no exception as most plantings are on light free draining soils. Addressing neglected soils by balancing the minerals to the Albrecht Kinsey model of soil fertility is a big step in the right direction. Improving the quality of what we produce whether it’s
more disease resistant grape vines or superior grape/wine quality is what it is all about. Neal Kinsey (right), the foremost Albrecht consultant in the world today, will be heading a three day seminar on soil fertility in Blenheim from May 26 to 28. Kinsey studied under Dr William Albrecht, Emeritus Professor and former chairman, department of soils at the University of Missouri, then after Dr Albrecht’s retirement continued relentlessly promoting his system of improving soil fertility by adjusting the base saturation of essential nutri-
ents to specific percentages as set out by Dr Albrecht himself. Kinsey and co-author Charles Walters of Acres USA wrote the very popular “Hands on Agronomy”, a must read for anyone truly interested in soil health. Consulting to over 70 country’s including many wine growing regions from California to Germany, Kinsey is a wealth of knowledge when it comes to achieving the best outcome for the health of your soil and associated crops. His introductory course will look carefully at where all health
starts – the soil. To register go to www.nealkinseynz.co.nz or www.goldenbaydolomite.co.nz There is limited room so early registration will be necessary to secure a spot. ■
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SWNZ UPDATE
MAKING YOUR SPRAY DIARY EASY R
ecording of spray applications is a legal requirement to minimise Food Safety Risk. Sustainable Winegrowing NZ introduced the spray diary programme to help you meet this legal obligation, and submission of your spray diary is part of the Sustainable Winegrowing NZ accreditation process. The programme allows growers to capture data that can then be used to generate reports and identify areas of research that could assist growers with their agrichemical usage. A spray diary not only provides evidence that Members are using sustainable practices, but collation of the information also allows us to generate information and analysis. Generations of the industry spray schedule, resistance management strategies and information such as the recent studies into Powdery Mildew and Mealy Bug management all draw from the spray diary information provided by Members.
Using GrapeLink for
your Spray Diaries – how can this help you? Our goal is to capture the data from your spray diaries and provide improved spray use trend and benchmark reporting to help you make improved decisions. Electronic spray diaries improve recording and spray management systems, they are readable, accurate and provide consistency in data recording. Spray records can be sent easily to everyone who needs them and can be uploaded into a single database for analysis. We have listened to Member feedback and have been working with the Agribusiness Group, AgriLink and the NZ Sustainability Dashboard programme to develop a tool box for Members. This includes reporting, benchmarking, and extension – advice and support, and the subsequent identification of industry research needs. To provide accurate and timely reporting, spray diary data needs to be captured electronically. The preferred tool used by New Zea-
land Winegrowers is GrapeLink. Member feedback on GrapeLink has been very positive – a free version is provided as part of the Sustainable Winegrowing NZ membership and it is easy to use. The electronic systems GrapeBase, SprayLog, Vinsight, and TracMap are also compatible and acceptable alternatives. If Members are using other electronic systems they will need to provide details to Sustainable Winegrowing NZ to confirm if they are compatible and accepted. The use of electronic spray diaries also reduces audit times, as they are easier to read, and facilitate pre-checks prior to audit.
Electronic Spray Diary Submission Compulsory From 2015 We encourage you to use GrapeLink this year for recording and submitting your spray diaries. Only spray diaries submitted in accepted electronic formats will be included in agrichemical benchmarking and reporting for 2014. From 2015, submission of spray
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diaries in an acceptable electronic format will be compulsory for accreditation purposes. Acceptance and processing of manual spray diaries (including paper, Word, Excel etc.) was an interim measure only, due to the introduction of GrapeLink mid-season. An email was sent to all Sustainable Winegrowing NZ members on 27th/28th February 2013 containing individual log-on details and a user guide for GrapeLink. In the first instance please check your emails for your login details. If you are unable to locate these please contact the Sustainable Winegrowing NZ team on swnzdata@swnz.org.nz GrapeLink is compatible with the current versions of the following web browsers: Google Chrome, Internet Explorer, Mozilla Firefox and Safari. The electronic capture of spray diary data will allow us to deliver on our goal to continue to add value to our Members through improved reporting and participation in Agrichemical benchmarking. ■
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OBITUARY
MARLBOROUGH STALWART REMEMBERED T
he man responsible for finding Montana the first vineyards in Marlborough, died earlier this year, after more than 40 years at the centre of the local wine industry. John Marris’s story of getting that mystery phone call back in 1973, through to locating close to 3000 hectares for Montana to consider, has become legendary. Montana ended up purchasing 1200 hectares and paid out a total of $1,345,435. So began the modern-day Marlborough wine industry. Montana were so impressed with John’s skills and initiative, they offered him the job of Marlborough Administration Manager. He in turn was quick to see the potential of the region for growing grapes – so much so that he became Marlborough’s first contract grower. (These days there are more than 550 growers in Marlborough.) Later he liaised with the many more individuals who would follow suit, growing grapes on contract for the large Auckland based company He was the very first grower to install irrigation in his own vineyard, inspiring many others to do the same in an effort to cope with the dry arid conditions. Included in those who were impressed at how well and quickly his own vines grew, was his employer Montana, who was convinced by John to install irrigation at Brancott in an
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effort to prevent further massive vine losses. Keen to pass on any knowledge he had gained, Marris was a sought after consultant. In 2000 he merged his considerable vineyard holdings with his son Brent’s Wither Hills wine label, which quickly went on to become one of the stand out players in Marlborough. In 2002 Lion Nathan bought the company for $52 million. Marris continued to work for them after that, helping establish their now iconic Rarangi site. In 1983 he was instrumental in establishing the Marlborough Research Centre Trust, and was the Chairman of the Trust until he retired due to ill health late last year. While wine quickly dominated the rural environment, Marris was adamant the Research Centre would not limit itself to one horticultural sector. Chief Executive of the Research Centre, Gerald Hope, says; “John Marris understood the fundamental importance of using the best science and technology available. Whether it was growing and marketing cherries, apples or grapes he was versatile and adaptable. As a pioneer grape grower, a farsighted investor in land development and passionate advocate for utilising the natural resources Marlborough provides, he has no peers in his generation.” John Marris died on January
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014
John Marris
26, aged 73. He is survived by his wife Alison, six children and many grandchildren.
Remembering A Wine Matriarch One of the great wine women of New Zealand also passed away earlier this year. Vidosava (Vida) Delegat who helped establish one of this country’s largest wine com-
panies with her husband Nikola, died at home, aged 92. Vida, born in Croatia in 1921, came to New Zealand in 1938, aged 17. Her first employment was for fellow Croatians, the Fistonich’s, then she went on to the Babich’s, All this took place some 75 years ago and still today the families have maintained that close bond of friendship.
She met her future husband Nikola, a fellow Croatian in 1940 and the couple were married a few months later. The early years of married life were spent in the Waikato, where the couple farmed. In 1947 they moved to Auckland, and bought 4 hectares of land in Henderson. This tiny holding has grown to become the base of the Delegat’s Wine Estate and is known as the spiritual home for the business. The Homestead and original winery built many decades ago is still operational. It wasn’t long before the Delegat wine name began to gain a following, firstly with friends and then further afield. Vida played a huge role in the development of the company, working alongside Nikola tending grapes and creating wines. When her husband died in 1973, Vida along with son Jim and
daughter Rose took over the running of the business and she continued to play a daily role through until the end of the 1990’s. During that time Delegat’s Wine Estate grew substantially, moving into both Hawke’s Bay and Marlborough. Despite her age, she was always available to provide advice when asked by family members. In 2007 she was guest of honour at the opening of the state of the art winery in Marlborough, which also marked the 60th anniversary of the formation of the Delegat’s wine name. Vida brought many great things to the business, and the values she created still endure in the company today – among them, working hard to create a new future. She is survived by her four children, seven grandchildren and three great grandchildren. ■
Vida Delegat
2925
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014 // 49
INDUSTRY NEWS
CHOOSING THE RIGHT DRIP LINE H
ydrogol, HydroPC and HydroPCND are popular drip line brands used in viticulture throughout New Zealand. Previously manufactured by Plastro Asia Pacific, the drip lines are now manufactured by John Deere Water and have expanded to include the new D5000 Flow Regulating range. With a wide range of drip lines, how do you determine what is best for your application? The first question you need to ask is whether you have flat or sloping ground. When non-pressure compensating drip line is used on slop-
50 //
ing ground, the pressure at lower elevations may be greater than that at higher elevations. This can lead to significant over and under irrigating across your crop. If your land is flat, Hydrogol non-pressure compensating drip line may be sufficient. However, if your land is sloping or if you have long run lengths, you will achieve greater uniformity using a pressure compensating drip line. HydroPC and D5000 are both pressure compensating drip lines meaning that regardless of water pressure, the dripper will continue to emit the same specified flow. In
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014
other words, all vines will receive the same level of irrigation regardless of elevation. Also in cases of long row lengths, the crops at the end of the row will receive the same irrigation as the crops at the beginning. This uniformity is achieved due to a precision engineered membrane within the dripper itself. The membrane regulates the flow of water dependent on the pressure exerted upon it ensuring that your vines receive the specified rate of water application. HydroPC is a well-established drip line in New Zealand in use for over 14 years. Incorporating
a round dripper with 2 outlets, HydroPC delivers high performance and reliability. D5000 is a newer drip line which provides a more economical alternative and utilises a flat (boat style) dripper. In addition to pressure compensating, John Deere also offers a drip line with a ‘no-drain’ feature called HydroPCND. Although pressure compensating drip line will regulate flow, upon shut-off the water will continue to flow through drippers until the drip lines are fully discharged. Nodrain drip line integrates a selfsealing mechanism which stops
water emission when the pressure drops below 10 kPa. More commonly used for pulse irrigation, there can be specialist vineyard applications where HydroPCND is required. Once you have determined the type of drip line, you will need to define the hose diameter in conjunction with the dripper flow rate and spacing. Flow rates and dripper spacing will be driven primarily by the agronomic requirements of your vineyard resulting in the total flow required per row. The laws of physics and good irrigation design specify the maximum run length that can be achieved for every configuration of drip line. A full list can be found at www. johndeerewater.co.nz/products (pages 26-57). To strike the balance of performance and cost, you will generally choose the smallest diameter product that will
achieve the flow and run lengths required. However it is important to also account for extra capacity required for periodic line flush-
ing. For this reason, it is highly recommended that you engage the services of a certified irrigation designer when planning an
irrigation system. Whatever your application, there are a wide range of John Deere drip lines to suit your requirements. ■
Reduce the opportunity for disease to overwinter.
Clean up with Digester
Digester uses BioStart’s signal molecule technology to activate the beneficial fungi and bacteria that decompose leaf litter, prunings and dead roots into humus. AvAilAble from leAding HorticulturAl SupplierS For further information on BioStart Digester or any of the BioStart range, phone 0800 116 229 or visit the BioStart website www.biostart.co.nz
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014 // 51
BOOK REVIEWS The Good News About Booze By Tony Edwards PUBLISHED BY PREMIUM PUBLISHING
UK £11 from Amazon (Also available as a Kindle book from Amazon.co.uk) REVIEWED BY JOELLE THOMSON
G
ood news and booze are not exactly the best of friends, but author Tony Edwards suggests they should be closer pals in his unsponsored new book, The Good News about Booze; published last year. Edwards is a former BBC TV science producer and his book is sub-titled ‘A sober but sensational survey of the evidence about alcohol and health’. It’s an accurate summary of what is definitely a sensational book. Within the 224 pages of this novel-format book, he debunks
been partially fermenting) and he suggests that women preferred to pick fruit directly off the tree than eat it from the ground. Just kidding. This book is an outstanding collection of well researched, interesting facts and it’s a great read. Edwards is a journalist with a factual focus,
myths, he writes well and he is unafraid to talk about all those things we really want to know – alcohol and breast cancer, alcohol and erectile dysfunction, alcohol and mental impairment. Alcohol and… everything from dementia to diabetes, osteoporosis to prostate problems and the common cold to ADH – alcohol dehydrogenase. The latter is the reason that men process literally about twice the amount of alcohol as women. That goes back to hunting, gathering, eating partially rotten fruit (which would often have
the ability to write in depth with a light touch ,and the courage to tell it like it is. ■
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52 //
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014
REGIONS CENTRAL OTAGO
BLASTING INTO WINE PETER OWENS
C
onroy’s Gully was an important area in the Central Otago gold rushes of the 19th century. But when gold was no longer being found in commercial quantities, the area relapsed into scrub and a certain amount of fruit growing. In 1978, Verdun Burgess, an Invercargill builder, was contracted to build a house in nearby Alexandra, which led on to a number of other jobs. When Burgess was offered a block of land that had formerly been part of Earnscleugh Station, he was left wodnering what he could do with it. Growing fruit was one obvious solution, but having inspected the Conroy’s Road block carefully he concluded it was too “steep and bony” for the fruitgrowing to be economic. What about grapes someone suggested. Knowing grapes had been grown in the area before, Burgess began talking with Dr John McLaren who managed a DSIR Research Station in the area. He had already planted a number of cuttings that had been sent down from Te Kauwhata Station, within Earnscleugh Station. In
fact by the early 1980s, that station had about 40 acres of vines in the ground. These had to fit into the current management plan of experimental crops on the station and received no special attention. Despite this, some of the cuttings struck and McLaren was able to nurture cool climate vines until they produced sufficient grapes for the production of several bottles of wine. Burgess was encouraged by this and in late 1981, now assisted by Sue Edwards, finally acquired the 21 ha block in both of their names. The terrain and terroir of Central Otago is markedly different from just about anywhere else in New Zealand. The property known as Black Ridge was and is – stark. It is no one’s conception of a vineyard and looks more like the setting for a western movie. Burgess and Edwards were not discouraged despite the absence of any water on the property. They had already received 20,000 vines of different types and until the water bore was approved by the Otago Regional Council, these were kept in damp sawdust and
watered regularly (by hand.) In the summer of 1981/82 they began preparing the unforgivng land. It was so difficult for them to install the strainer posts for their first plantings that they had to use dynamite to blow big enough holes. Among their first plantings were Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Noir. The couple developed a policy of planting each species in a block. They did not and do not believe in a policy of planting just several rows of a species. This has meant in practice that they have not been obliged to transplant vines and in fact now have some of the oldest vines in Central Otago. In 1998, the vineyard bottled its first vintage, under the label of Black Ridge, made by Rudi Bauer at the Rippon winery. Grapes were carted to Rippon by Burgess hauling a local bee-keepers wagon packed with the fruit. By 2002 a new winery and tasting facility were built on the property and all winemaking and storage is now concentrated in this building, producing about 50 tones
of fruit a year. Today, Black Ridge still grows cool climate grapes and produces Riesling, Gerwurtztraminer, Chardonnay and some Cabernet Sauvignon (which is unusual for Central Otago.) However, it’s Pinot Noir that Black Ridge is renowned for. A distinctive wine, which Edwards puts down to the unique factors in the terroir and the age of the vines. Despite Black Ridge Vineyard and Winery now being well established, there is no rest for Burgess and Edwards. All pruning, grafting picking and other activities are done by hand and there is the ongoing battle with the local rabbits. Central is renowned for rabbits, but the former Earnscleugh Station has the highest number of anywhere in the country. Luckily in this respect they are assisted by their Burmese cat, Kuce, who annually dispatches about 300 of the pests. Black Ridge may look like a stark spot, buffeted by the cold winters and hot summers, but it also has the distinction of being thought to be the world’s most southern winery. ■
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014 // 53
NOT ON THE LABEL LEGAL MATTERS WITH MARIJA BATISTICH SENIOR ASSOCIATE AND KRISTIN WILSON, SENIOR SOLICITOR – BELL GULLY
ADVERTISING AND THE SALE AND SUPPLY OF ALCOHOL ACT 2012
T
his article follows in further detail the one in the previous issue on these new restrictions which mean that extra care has to be taken before advertising discounts, competitions or giveaways that involve alcohol, especially if these advertisements are published outside licensed premises.
Prize competitions The Gambling Act 2003 prohibits alcohol being given away as a prize in competitions where entrants have to pay or purchase a product to enter, if the outcome of the competition depends on luck. The Sale and Supply of Alcohol Act 2012 now means that there are additional restrictions that must be taken into account when advertising a competition where the prize involves alcohol, regardless of the entry requirements. If a business runs a competition where alcohol forms part of the
prize, the promotion may not be advertised anywhere people could see or hear it outside of licensed premises. This will include promotions where people subscribe to a newsletter to go into the draw to win a prize, where the competition is a game of skill, and any ‘lucky dip’ competitions. As well as restricting the ability to advertise competitions that include alcohol as a prize,
the Sale and Supply of Alcohol Act 2012 prohibits the advertising of promotions where the purchase of alcohol is required in order to enter, or where a certain amount of alcohol is required to be eligible for a reward. ‘Seen or heard’ from outside licensed premises will include advertising that is conducted via email, print, broadcast, or social media, including Facebook. Special care may need to be taken at
festivals or shows where only a stall is licensed rather than the venue as a whole, as any such advertising that could be seen or heard from an unlicensed area could be in breach of the Act. Advertising for these kinds of competitions and promotions can be conducted inside licensed premises, provided that: the advertising cannot be seen or heard outside such premises; no promotion, signage or activity encourages excessive consumption of alcohol or faster than normal drinking; and no promotion is aimed at or has special appeal to minors.
Advertising of special offers The Sale and Supply of Alcohol Act 2012 makes it an offence to advertise outside of licensed premises any promotions that are likely to make people think there is a discount of 25% or more available on any alcohol
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54 //
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014
product. The Act will extend to situations where advertisers imply or hint the discount is at least 25% rather than explicitly stating the amount of the discount, for example offering “crazy discounts”, “massive discounts” or “deals so good we can’t tell you about them”. Any deals advertised that includes offers of “two for the price of one” are likely to fall foul of this law. It is permitted to advertise discounts of up to 50% inside licensed premises. It is also permitted for discounts of greater than 25% to be promoted or advertised in the catalogue or similar price list of the holder of an off-licence endorsed for remote-selling of alcohol under section 40 of the Act. Advertising two-for-one meal offers that include a glass of wine for each person may imply that there is a 50% discount off the full price of the wine, which would breach the law. In order to comply with these rules, it is recommended that any offering that advertises a discount on a wine and food package should either be expressed to only cover the food and have the wine at full price, or include a statement that explicitly sets out the discount that applies to the food and separately the discount that applies to the wine so as to ensure the discount on alcohol does not exceed 25%. These amended offers must however be genuine - if the advertising is such that it will lead people to believe there is more than a 25% discount off the alcohol, it will still breach the Act.
Product giveaways Care should be taken when conducting any advertising that involves alcohol giveaways. Offers such as “buy one, get one free”, “One free bottle of wine when a reservation is made” or
“free glass of wine with every main purchased” is likely to be considered to breach the rule against advertising alcohol at more than a 25% discount. The Act also prohibits the advertising of promotions that involve free products or services being given to customers who purchase alcohol, if such advertising is visible outside of licensed premises. The wording of the legislation is not restricted, and this could include for example an offer of a free cheese platter when a bottle of wine is purchased at a restaurant, or a free cooler-bag or wine glass when alcohol is purchased from an off-licence. The Act does provide that it is permitted to promote or advertise the complimentary sampling of alcohol for consumption on premises for which an off-licence is held.
Conclusion The major impact for the wine industry of the restrictions on advertising contained in the Act is likely to relate to advertising that is conducted outside of licensed premises. At licensed premises, where such advertising cannot be seen or heard from outside, businesses will be able to offer discounts of up to 50%, will be able to give away alcohol, will be able to give away incentives and run competitions that involve the purchase of alcohol, and will be able to run competitions where alcohol is a prize (provided the Gambling Act 2003 is complied with), much as they have in the past. Penalties for breaching this section of the Act can include a fine of up to $10,000 and a loss of licence for up to seven days, so this legislation should be kept in mind whenever advertising involving alcohol is contemplated. ■
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NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014 // 55
SCIENCE NEWS
NZW SCIENCE SCHOLARSHIPS T
wo scholarships awarded by New Zealand Wineg r o w e r s h av e b e e n announced, with both going to affiliates of Auckland University. The 2014 recipient of the Rod Bonfiglioli Scholarship is Arnaud Blouin, a senior staff member at Plant & Food Research at Mount Albert, Auckland. Blouin’s doctoral research will focus on a survey of grapevine viruses present in New Zealand vineyards and study the virus population dynamics in the rootstock and scion of grafted vines. Blouin has a wealth of experience in plant virology, including the development of laboratory diagnostic tests to detect plant diseases. One aspect of his research involves the detection and characterisation of new viruses. The Rod Bonfiglioli Scholarship is offered to one recipient for the duration of his or her study and research programme. The scholarship honours Dr Roderick Bonfiglioli, a former member of the
Matais Kinzurik
Arnaud Blouin
NZW Research Committee who led industry efforts to stop the spread of Leafroll 3 virus in New Zealand vineyards. The scholarship provides recipients with a stipend of $30,000 for conducting PhD studies plus $10,000 expenses for fees and research costs per year. It is open to candidates from any country, provided the individual is eligible under New Zealand immigration laws to enrol in a PhD programme. The second scholarship, is
the New Zealand Winegrowers/ Romeo Bragato Trust Postgraduate Scholarship, with the recipient being doctoral candidate, Matias Kinzurik. He will explore the pathway of volatile sulphur compounds in wine yeast and look to develop methods to quantify the concentrations of key sulphur precursors present in grape juices. Kinzurik, originally from Argentina, received a Master’s degree in chemistry from Rice University in Texas, and his research is directed toward the production of novel
compounds through metabolic engineering. The Bragato Trust was formed in memory of Romeo Bragato, Government Viticulturist from 1902 to 1909. Bragato is today widely recognised as the ‘father’ of New Zealand viticulture. Like the Bonfiglioli scholarship, the New Zealand Winegrowers Romeo Bragato Trust scholarship is funded to the same amount and offered to one recipient for the duration of his or her research towards a PhD. Both doctoral scholars are affiliated with the University of Auckland. “New Zealand Winegrowers is delighted to support these excellent candidates,” said Dr Simon Hooker, General Manager Research. “Our research programme aims to provide and promote a technological basis for the production of premium quality wines, and the work undertaken by Arnaud and Matias will help to support that goal in both the vineyard and the winery.” ■
NOW READ IT ONLINE GENERAL NEWS PEOPLE PROFILES AND MUCH MORE... REGIONAL UPDATES OPINION
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Reading the magazine online has never been easier.
CALENDAR APRIL 4-6
5
20
28-May 2
The Food Show
Forrest GrapeRide
Christchurch
Marlborough – full details at www. graperide.co.nz
Clyde Wine and Food Festival
Decanter World Wine Awards
Clyde
2014 Judging – London
MAY 9-11
22
27-29
The Food Show Wellington
Gisborne Regional Wine Awards Judging
Vinexpo Asia Pacific
Westpac Stadium
Hong Kong
Gisborne
19
23
Spiegelau International Wine Competition 2014
Gisborne Regional Wine Awards Dinner
Entries open
Gisborne
JUNE
JULY
AUGUST
15-17
8
Spiegelau International Wine Competition Judging
Spiegelau International Wine Competition Awards Dinner
Blenheim
Auckland
2-4
10
12
The London International Wine Fair
New Zealand Winegrowers Grape Days
New Zealand Winegrowers Grape Days
Blenheim
Napier
OCTOBER 7-8 Marlborough Wine Show Judging Marlborough
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014 // 57
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MAY 2-4
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MAY 8
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DATE T.B.C.
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NEW ZEALAND WINE FAIR, NEW YORK
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MAY 12
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CHINA
NEW ZEALAND WINE FAIR, SHANGHAI
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MAY 20
CHINA
NEW ZEALAND WINE FAIR, BEIJING
W, A, NZW,
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MAY 22
CHINA
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T, M
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CANADA
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T, M, C
MAY 25-JUNE 21
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STATISTICS
MAJOR NZ VINEYARD AREAS PRODUCING HECTARES
PRINCIPAL EXPORT MARKETS
Region Region (Actual) (Actual)
2012 2012
2015 2015 (forecast) (forecast)
% % of of Total Total
Marlborough Marlborough
22,587.3 22,587.3
23.017.7 23.017.7
66% 66%
Hawkes Hawkes Bay Bay
4,841.4 4,841.4
4,938.5 4,938.5
14% 14%
Otago Otago
1,786.7 1,786.7
1,791.9 1,791.9
5% 5%
Gisborne Gisborne
1,616.5 1,616.5
1,586.2 1,586.2
5% 5%
Waipara Waipara
1,034.5 1,034.5
1,082.2 1,082.2
3% 3%
Wairarapa Wairarapa // Wellington Wellington
941.9 941.9
943.5 943.5
3% 3%
Nelson Nelson
962.6 962.6
1,015.4 1,015.4
3% 3%
Auckland Auckland // Northland Northland
319.77 319.77
315.7 315.7
1% 1%
Waikato Waikato // Bay Bay of of Plenty Plenty
16.1 16.1
10.2 10.2
0% 0%
National National Total Total
34,269.5 34,269.5
34,952.8 34,952.8
Exports up again Exports for the year to date to the end of January
Exports for the 11 months to end of May 2013 (Moving Annual Total) (Moving Annual Total)
Litres Litres (m) (m)
Country Country
United United Kingdom Kingdom
$ FOB $ FOB
Average Average Average Average $/L 2012 $/L 2014 $/L $/L2011 2013
47,811 48,236 273,830 286,082
4.93 $5.54
USA USA
42,473 45,197
281,135 303,901
6.62 $6.72
6.36 $6.41
Australia Australia
49,460 53,377
368,191 387,412
7.44 $7.26
7.11 $7.45
MAJOR VARIETIES IN MAJOR AREAS
Canada Canada
7448 7,245
80,322 77,149
10.78 $10.65
10.82 $10.84
New New Zealand’s Zealand’s total total producing producing vineyard vineyard will will increase increase by by only only 0.5% 0.5% over over the the next next 22 years. years. This This table table shows shows the the variation variation for for major major varieties varieties (in (in Ha), Ha), with with % % change change and and percentage percentage of of total total in in 2012. 2012.
Netherlands Netherlands
3806 4,958
24,213 33,382
6.36 $6.73
5.78 $5.95
Denmark Denmark
0.792 0.842
5446 6,489
6.87 $7.71
6.55 $6.39
Ireland Ireland
2089 2219
14,830 16,411
7.10 $7.39
7.55 $6.98
Japan Japan
11291,173
13,203 13,940
11.69 $11.88
11.46 $11.90
Germany Germany
1661 2,160
9844 11,480
5.92 $5.31
5.70 $5.17
2366 1,799
28,978 21,834
12.24 $12.13
12.10 $12.23
Hong Hong Kong Kong
1541 1,420
19,940 18,250
12.94 $12.85
12.10 $12.81
Singapore Singapore
1252 1,537
16,066 20,450
12.83 $13.30
12.72 $12.74
Finland Finland
0.163 0.215
1356 1,849
8.31 $8.58
9.73 $8.92
Norway Norway
0.201 0.284
1326 2,226
6.59 $7.83
7.42 $6.54
Sweden Sweden
1.603 1.543
13,425 13,085
8.37 $8.48
8.12 $8.28
Others Others
5,057 5,306
48,820 51,101
9.65 $9.63
9.79 $9.78
168,861 1,200,933 177,519,246 1,265,049
7.11 $7.13
6.56 $6.95
Variety Variety
2012 2012
% % producing producing area area
2015 2015
% % producing producing area area
Sauvignon Sauvignon Blanc Blanc
19,929.8 19,929.8
58.2 58.2
20,214.7 20,214.7
57.8 57.8
Pinot Pinot Noir Noir
5096.4 5096.4
14.9 14.9
5175.1 5175.1
14.8 14.8
Chardonnay Chardonnay
3120.9 3120.9
9.1 9.1
3164.0 3164.0
9.1 9.1
Pinot Pinot Gris Gris
2396.2 2396.2
7.0 7.0
2399.7 2399.7
6.9 6.9
Merlot Merlot
1195.9 1195.9
3.5 3.5
1245.4 1245.4
3.6 3.6
Riesling Riesling
719.0 719.0
2.1 2.1
746.2 746.2
2.1 2.1
Syrah Syrah
354.1 354.1
1.0 1.0
400.6 400.6
Gewurztraminer Gewurztraminer
331.3 331.3
1.0 1.0
311.4 311.4
0.9 0.9
Cabernet Cabernet Sauv Sauv
284.8 284.8
0.8 0.8
323.7 323.7
0.9 0.9
Viognier Viognier
160.8 160.8
0.5 0.5
146.5 146.5
0.4 0.4
Malbec Malbec
130.2 130.2
0.4 0.4
143.9 143.9
0.4 0.4
Cabernet Cabernet Franc Franc
111.6 111.6
0.3 0.3
108.9 108.9
0.3 0.3
1.3 1.3
572.7 572.7
1.6 1.6
All All other other varieties varieties
438.7 438.7
Total Total
34,269 34,269
11
China China
34,952.9 34,952.9
PRODUCING AREA IN HECTARES BY SIZE - NUMBER OF VINEYARDS Region Region
0-5 0-5
5.01-10 5.01-10
Aklnd Aklnd // Nthlnd Nthlnd
60 60
13 13
Canterbury Canterbury
10.01-20 10.01-20
33
20.01-50 20.01-50
0 0
50.01 50.01 and and over over 11
16 16
66
22
0 0
11
Gisborne Gisborne
20 20
30 30
25 25
13 13
77
Hawkes Hawkes Bay Bay
75 75
56 56
57 57
32 32
21 21
Marlborough Marlborough
190 190
291 291
210 210
181 181
100 100
Nelson Nelson
45 45
37 37
12 12
66
33
Otago Otago
80 80
61 61
26 26
15 15
33
Waikato Waikato // BoP BoP
22
11
11
__
__
Waipara Waipara
12 12
16 16
33
66
44
Wairarapa Wairarapa // Wgtn Wgtn
61 61
16 16
10 10
88
33
561 561
527 527
349 349
261 261
143 143
National National
Total Total
*(npr *(npr == not not previously previously recorded recorded separately) separately) *n.c. *n.c. == no no change change NZ WINEGROWER DECEMBER WINEGROWER 2013/JANUARY APRIL/MAY 2014 2014 // NZ // 5959
RESEARCH SUPPLEMENT Information and Updates on NZ Winegrowers Research Programmes. Editor Dr Simon Hooker, General Manager Research and Innovation
A regular feature at the back of each issue of WineGrower to inform industry people about research projects being undertaken for their benefit. Newly approved projects (when available) are briefly summarised in the first section ‘Introducing New Projects’. Longer reports in the section headed ‘Progress Reports’, will describe what has been achieved so far. Scientists in charge of each project have been asked to make these reports reader-friendly rather than to follow the usual format of scientific papers. When completed, each project will be reported in full detail, with references, on the website: http://wine.nzwine.com/members/research/research-reports/
LIST OF PROJECTS
Quality Wine Styles for Existing and Developing Markets Literature review of grape and wine anthocyanins and phenolics to give viticulturists and winemakers knowledge Lincoln University (Roland Harrison) Preliminary investigation of factors responsible for variability in tartaric acid additions to Pinot noir Lincoln University (Roland Harrison) Influence of juice pH on thiol production Plant and Food Research (Claire Grose) Identification of natural genetic variation in grapevine contributing to pathogen resistance Lincoln University (Chris Winefield) The pathway of volatile sulphur compounds in wine yeast – The Bragato Trust and NZW Scholarship University of Auckland (Dr Bruno Fedrizzi - student Matias Kinzurk)
60 //
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014
Pests and Disease
Sustainability/Organics
Sustaining vineyards through practical management of grapevine trunk diseases South Australian Research & Development Institute (Mark Sosnowski) Supported by MPI Sustainable Farming Fund
Organic Focus Vineyard Project Organic Winegrowers New Zealand (Rebecca Reider) Supported by MPI Sustainable Farming Fund
Implementation of Virus Elimination Strategy Various (Nick Hoskins – Project Manager) Supported by MPI Sustainable Farming Fund Virus diversity in New Zealand grapevines: sequence, ecology and impact – The Rod Bonfiglioli Scholarship Plant and Food Research (Dr Robin MacDiarmid - student Arnaud Blouin) Sector weather data licence & tools HortPlus (NZ) Ltd
Effects of undervine vegetation management on grape quality, vine performance, grape composition, and soil properties Eastern Institute of Technology (EIT) (Mark Krasnow)
Cost Reduction/Increased Profitability New opportunities for sustainable grape thinning Plant and Food Research (Mike Trought) Supported by MPI Sustainable Farming Fund Reduced berry size and Botrytis tolerance through trauma to the vine Plant and Food Research (Mike Trought)
PROGRESS REPORTS
Implementing the Botrytis decision support models Project leader: Dr Rob Beresford 11 - 120 The New Zealand wine industry now has a fully implemented online tool to help vineyard managers and wine makers to make optimal decisions about botrytis management. The implementation phase of the Botrytis Decision Support (BDS) project included consultation with the wine industry on their needs to improve the botrytis risk models, development of rapid botrytis assessment methods using incidence-severity relationships, and refinement of the BDS web platform to incorporate the industry’s recommendations. The web platform includes separate models for the early-season period from flowering to véraison, and for the late-season period from véraison to harvest. We have recently completed the last steps of the implementation process, namely the evaluation of website usage since the models were first released in 2010, and the development of video-based education and training material to provide both industry support and promotion of the system. The website was developed during 2010-11 and, while available to wine industry users during that season, it was still under development. It was available for the entire 2011-12 (high botrytis risk), and 2012-13 (low botrytis risk) seasons. There has been a strong tendency for users to register in one season but not to return to the website in the following season, e.g. in 2011-2012 only 11 out of 31 users returned after 2010-11, and in 2012-2013 only nine out of 62 returned after 2011-12. About 50% of users logged in more than once, 29% logged in 2-5 times, 13%
logged in 6-10 times and only 9% logged in >10 times. These low numbers probably reflect two different interest groups: 1) people who were not involved in grape growing but curious about the model, e.g. researchers and university teachers, and 2) people involved in grape growing who either did not find the website useful, or found it too complex to understand or difficult to use. It is people in the latter category who should find the newly developed online help and video material most useful. We estimate that ten logins by a user over three seasons would be a minimal expectation for effective use of the models. On this basis, it is likely that fewer than 10% of potential users are making effective use of the website to date. The model has much to offer grape growers. The BDS database stores all inputs and model predictions for each vineyard block and season and has the potential to be used as an industry resource for summarising vine phenology, seasonal disease status, and botrytis management. This information can to be used to produce industry-wide summaries of botrytis risk and botrytis management, although website use will need to increase substantially before these summaries become robust. Three educational videos that describe botrytis epidemiology, principles of botrytis management, and how the BDS models interpret seasonal botrytis risk have been created, as well as nineteen short videos that describe the mechanics of the BDS website. These are
Figure 1
Figure 2
structured into Block System (five parts), Early Model (five parts) and Late Model (nine parts). All the videos have been loaded onto the NZ Winegrowers YouTube channel, and are now available for online access through the BDS website. Achieving wider industry uptake of this BDS tool will require further effort. We know from experience with decision support models in the apple and kiwifruit industries that making accurate disease risk models available does not guarantee their use by growers or industry managers. Barriers to uptake must be investigated, and an education programme targeting
behavioural changes in decisionmaking from habit to informed reasoning will be needed. This will take time and effort, but will eventually lead to these tools becoming a routine and indispensible part of vineyard management in the New Zealand wine industry. The BDS disease management tools can be seen as a first step in computer-based decision support for the wine industry. The platform can now be adapted for a wider range of viticultural management tools. These can be developed using existing scientific information linked to a planned programme of tool development and validation.
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New opportunities for sustainable grape thinning Trought M1, Neal S1, Grose C1, Albright A1, Pineau B2, Beresford M2, Mundy D1, McLachlan A3, Gunson A2, Allen M4, 1Plant & Food Research Ltd, Marlborough Wine Research Centre, Blenheim 2Plant & Food Research Ltd, Auckland 3Plant & Food Research Ltd, Palmerston North 4Allen Vineyard Advisory Ltd, Blenheim 11-101 Previous projects funded by NZ Winegrowers assessed mechanical thinning as a cost-effective and labour-saving alternative to hand thinning for reducing grape yields to contracted targets. Initial concerns that machine thinning may increase disease (especially botrytis bunch rot incidence) proved unfounded. We also showed that thinning consistently reduced berry size at harvest. Extending that work, a similarly funded three-year commercialscale field trial is in its second year. It evaluates the effects from using mechanical thinning for yield and botrytis bunch rot management on four varieties - Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Merlot and Pinot Noir - in Marlborough and Hawke’s Bay. Wines made at the Marlborough Research Centre from fruit from machine- and non-thinned vines in
2012 and 2013 have been evaluated by industry professionals in Marlborough. Our aim was to determine whether machine thinning significantly affected the overall sensory profile of the resulting wines compared with those of wines from non-mechanically thinned vines. Our expert sensory panel were unable to differentiate the 2012 wines made from grapes from the machine thinned and non-machine treatments, indicating that machine thinning had not adversely affected the sensory properties. Wines made from Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc were described as being different this year (2013). These sensory differences were possibly due to unexpected differences in maturity between control and machine thinned treatments. Further sen-
sory work is being undertaken in an attempt to clarify this. Accelerated aging trials have been undertaken on wines made in 2012. Wines were stored at either 6° (control) or 50°C (accelerated) temperatures for up to nine weeks. Browning of wines (measured as optical density OD420) increased consistently over nine weeks of storage at 50°C. However, machine thinning appeared to have little effect, with wines stored at 50°C from thinned and unthinned vines having similar values. Our results indicate that mechanical thinning can be used in the vineyard with no significant effects on wine style provided that fruit is harvested at the same maturity as an unthinned control. The markedly higher than average crop yields (estimated to be 40 to 60% above average) have
resulted in wine companies and growers adoptingmachine thinning as a primary means of moderating yield. We estimate that approximately 2,500 ha of vines have been machine thinned in Marlborough between late December 2013 and early February 2014. Acknowledgements: This is a New Zealand Winegrowers funded project with co-funding by MPI Sustainable Farming Fund (11-101), Villa Maria (Hawke’s Bay), Pernod Ricard NZ (Marlborough), Constellation NZ Ltd (Marlborough), Wither Hills Ltd (Marlborough), Mt Riley Wines (Marlborough), Chaytor Vineyards Ltd and all their staff who have made this project possible, and the industry professionals that participated in the sensory evaluations of the wines.
Reduced berry size and Botrytis tolerance through trauma to the vine Trought M, Neal S, Greven M, Mundy D Plant & Food Research, Marlborough Wine Research Centre 12-106 Trials conducted over the past five years investigating the effects of mechanically thinning grapevines shortly after fruit set have
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consistently resulted in smaller berry size and generally reduced botrytis bunch rot at harvest than found in unthinned control treat-
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014
ments. We hypothesised that these effects are a response to trauma to the grapevines induced by the vigorous shaking of the trunks and/
or the canopy. Therefore, a new project was initied and funded by New Zealand Winegrowers was started in January 2013 on a Wither
Figure 1: Marc Greven (left) and Bruce West preparing to shake a Sauvignon Blanc vine with the Olive shaker.
Hills Sauvignon Blanc vineyard to evaluate the effects on vine water status, berry growth and botrytis incidence, of alternative methods of inducing trauma to vines. Two experimental protocols were used to study the trauma responses. In the first, a small plot replicated trial was established and vines were either shaken using an olive shaker attached to the head of the vine (Figure 1) or using a Braud™ harvester. The olive shaker gave a controlled, but probably excessive, shake to the trunk. Both methods of shaking reduced berry size, but the effect did not appear to be uniformly distributed over the whole vine. Measurements of berry diameter indicated that the effect of Olive shaking was largely limited to the area around the head of the vine and did not progress to the canes (Figure 2). When a Braud™ machine harvester was used to shake the vines, the average berry diameter was smaller up
to 40 cm from that at the head of the vine. Despite the reduction in berry growth and the symptoms of wilting observed on shoot tips, the trauma treatments failed to induce a measurable water stress response and in general leaf water potential was higher and stomatal conductance lower where vines had been shaken. In a second larger scale experiment, machine thinning using beaters on the trunk and in the canopy was compared with trunkonly thinning and with a Collard™ leaf plucker. The trunk-only and Collard treatments had no effect on the average berry weight at harvest; however, light and heavy machine thinning resulted in a decrease in berry weight of 16 and 23% respectively, compared with the unthinned control. These results suggest that to achieve uniform shaking of bunches on the vine, the whole canopy will need to be shaken,
and limiting shaking to the trunk only will be insufficient to shake bunches in the canopy at the extremities of the canes between the trunks. The machine thinning, trunkonly thinning and Collard treatments respectively reduced trash
amounts in the bunches at harvest to 49, 62 and 66% of that of the control. However, the 2013 season proved to have low disease pressure and these decreases in trash did not translate into significant differences in botrytis bunch rot incidence or severity at harvest.
Figure 2: Influence of Olive shaker and Braud™ machine harvester on mean grape berry weight at various distances from the head of the vine.
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014 // 63
The pathway of volatile sulphur compounds in wine yeast Matias Kinzurik, Richard Gardner and Bruno Fedrizzi Wine Science Group, The University of Auckland 13-102 The aim of this new PhD project funded by New Zealand Winegrowers and the Romeo Bragato Trust Postgraduate Scholarship is to discover the genetic origins of the Volatile Sulfur Compounds (VSCs). The influence of VSCs on wine aroma can be complex: although they are mostly associated with unpleasant off-flavours when they are present at high concentrations, at concentrations below the perception threshold, some sulfur compounds like dimethyl sulfides and long-chain polyfunctional
thiols infuse pleasant fruity and earthy aromas that are desirable. Terroir, the composition of the juice and the nature of the yeast used are key determinants in the final concentrations of aroma compounds in wine. However, VSCs are not present in grape juice and are now known to originate primarily during yeast fermentation of wine. Though great strides have been made in the analysis of these compounds in wine composition, little is known about how wine yeast makes them. In
particular, neither the biochemical pathways for their synthesis, nor the yeast genes involved, have been clearly identified. The initial experiments will determine the origin of VSCs in common winemaking strains of yeast. Synthetic media resembling grape juice will be fermented using a range of different inorganic and organic sulfur compounds, including isotopically labelled precursors of interest. We will later expand the experimental work
to include selected mutations in key genes associated with sulfur assimilation in yeast. The overall goal of this research is to better understand the sulfur pathway in yeast with the objective of developing custom yeast strains that could be used to tailor a desired combination of VSCs into wine aroma. The outcomes will help the New Zealand wine industry develop custom wines for a larger variety of market niches and palates worldwide. Contact: b.fedrizzi@auckland.ac.nz
Progressing management of grapevine trunk diseases Mark Sosnowski, South Australian Research & Development Institute and Dion Mundy, The New Zealand Institute for Plant & Food Research Limited mark.sosnowski@sa.gov.au 13-100 The grapevine trunk diseases eutypa and botryosphaeria dieback cause significant yield losses and can kill vines, having a major economic impact in wine regions worldwide. In New Zealand, they are becoming increasingly prevalent and threaten the sustainability of the $1.9 billion wine industry. Research aiming to sustain vineyards through practical management of grapevine trunk diseases continues in a New Zealand Winegrowers project led by the South Australian Research &
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Development Institute (SARDI) in collaboration with Plant & Food Research (PFR). Greenhouse experiments have been established at the Marlborough Research Centre to adapt a detached cane assay (DCA) method for use on Sauvignon Blanc in this project by comparing pathogens that cause eutypa (Eutypa lata) and botryosphaeria dieback (Neofusicoccum luteum and N. parvum), as well as the efficacy of fungicide wound protection on each species. It revealed
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014
that N. luteum was an ideal candidate for future experiments evaluating control of botryosphaeria dieback, because of the frequency of wound infection; yellow pigmentation produced in culture, allowing easier identification; and limited background infection because of the lower prevalence in vineyards compared with those of other species. Application of Folicur® (tebuconazole) to wounds reduced infection by all species, although only significantly for N. luteum infection.
To generate data for registration of wound treatments, DCA experiments were established by treating wounds with the same fungicides that have been applied in the field evaluation trial: Folicur®, Chief® (carbendazim), Gem® (fluazinam), Dithane™ (mancozeb), and Megastar™ (flusilazole). In addition, several alternative natural treatments (TriD25™, Biorepel® and HML 32™) were also applied to evaluate their efficacy for pruning wound protection. Wounds were
Figure 1. Surveying a vineyard for trunk disease symptoms.
inoculated with either E. lata or N. luteum. Preliminary results revealed that all treatments significantly reduced infection by E. lata. Laboratory assessments of N. luteum continue and ongoing greenhouse experiments will further evaluate pruning treatments at varying disease pressures, as well as their preventative and curative properties based on the timing of application. In December 2013, surveys (Figure 1) were undertaken to record the incidence of dieback and foliar symptoms (Figure 2) in 256 vineyard blocks in Hawke’s Bay and 441 blocks in Marlborough. In all, there were 22 varieties surveyed, ranging in age from 4 to 33 years old. The youngest vines observed with symptoms was 4 (dieback) and 7 (foliar) years. Disease incidence increased with age and varied between varieties and regions. The greatest incidence of dieback (88%) and foliar symptoms (10.5%) were recorded in 19-21 year old Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards in Hawke’s Bay. Incidence of symptoms increased considerably in vines over 15 years of age. Mean incidence of trunk disease was relatively low in Sauvignon Blanc, probably because of
the young average age of vines (11 years) and the predominant use of cane-pruning for this variety. Previous research suggests that cordon-pruned vines express more symptoms in young vines, but cane-pruning leads to greater mortality in mature vines, providing a warning to the Sauvignon Blanc dominated industry. Encouraging observations in both regions were the extensive use of paints and pastes for treating pruning wounds and reworking of affected vines. Data are currently being collected from growers on the details of planting material, pruning systems, disease management, as well as frost management and irrigation, which will also be analysed to determine the impacts of these on disease incidence. This will form the basis of an economic analysis of trunk diseases in New Zealand to provide decision support for managing trunk diseases. Grapevine Trunk Disease Workshops were held in Hawke’s Bay and Marlborough on the 6th and 13th of December 2013, respectively. In all, 82 industry members attended, including grape growers, viticulturists and representatives from nursery and
Figure 2. Typical dieback and foliar symptoms observed during the vineyard surveys.
NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014 // 65
agrochemical companies. Dr Mark Sosnowski (SARDI) gave a presentation on the progress of current research, with summaries of the vineyard surveys in each region. He also presented information on management of eutypa dieback in grapevines from Australian research over the past decade, which was followed by an update on results from current trunk disease research in Australia by Matthew Ayres (SARDI). Assoc Prof Marlene Jaspers (Lincoln University) presented an overview of the latest research on the management of black foot disease in grapevines, with a par-
ticular focus on nursery practices, and Dion Mundy (PFR) provided information on a grower survey to identify the gaps in our current knowledge. Dr Jose Urbez-Torres (AgriFood Canada) was invited to attend the workshops, with funding from the Agricultural and Marketing Research and Development Trust, and presented an overview of grapevine trunk disease research from his PhD at UC Davis, along with current research he is leading at Agri-Food Canada, Summerland, British Columbia. Of particular interest was his development of macro-array tech-
Figure 3. Demonstrating practical management of trunk diseases in the vineyard.
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NZ WINEGROWER APRIL/MAY 2014
niques for rapid and cost-effective diagnostics for trunk diseases, focusing on supporting the nursery industry. Following presentations, vineyard demonstrations provided hands-on experience for workshop attendees (Figure 3). In the coming winter, field trials established in 2013 will be assessed and repeated for the following season. Field days will be held at trial sites in Hawke’s Bay and Marlborough in August 2014 to demonstrate spray application methods being developed for pruning wound protection in this
project.
Acknowledgements This project was made possible by funding from New Zealand Winegrowers and the New Zealand Ministry for Primary Industries Sustainable Farming Fund (SFF 13-071). We thank Villa Maria, PernodRicard NZ, Delegat’s and Constellation Brands for providing access to vineyards for surveys, along with the various agrochemical companies who have committed to the outcomes of registering products for control of trunk diseases.
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