NZ Winegrower June/July 2015 by Rural News Group

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THE OFFICIAL JOURNAL OF NEW ZEALAND WINEGROWERS

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CONTENTS

ISSUE 92

36 R E GUL A R S

Editorial

Shaken Not Dropped

Tessa Nicholson

Following on from four years of trials investigating mechanical thinning, Mark Allen wanted to determine if a light shaking of vines would help reduce the incidence of botrytis. The results of his trials throughout the South Island are nothing short of phenomenal.

From The CEO

Philip Gregan

Regional Viewpoint

Rod MacIvor – Northland

In Brief

News From Around The Country

Young Guns With Roots Shoots and Fruits

20 A Magnificent Egg

Northland

Sommelier’s Corner

Cameron Douglas MS

54 Bob’s Blog

Bob Campbell MW

Calendar

Wine Happenings in New Zealand

Research Supplement

The latest Science and Research Projects funded by NZ Winegrowers

Cover Shot: Woollaston Estates, Nelson. Supplied by NZW.

FEATURES

A heap of Kiwi ingenuity has gone into creating the very first concrete fermenting egg here in New Zealand. Previously if you had wanted to purchase one, you had to import it from France or America. No longer is that the case, now a Hawke’s Bay company has begun manufacturing them here at home.

New Zealand Versus Australia

Could New Zealand wine overtake Australia in the export market? Dr Richard Smart takes a closer look at this very question, as he ponders why New Zealand wine has done so well in recent years, compared to Australia suffering a slump.

Creating A Storm With Riesling

Joelle Thomson talks to a man who has a history in producing top of the line Riesling. Ben Glover current Chair of Pinot 2017, is showing his versatility. He is group winemaker for Accolade Wines and winemaker for his own family wine company, Zephyr, two companies that are consistently lauded for their Riesling production.

E D I TO R Tessa Nicholson tessa.nicholson@me.com

CO R R E SP O N D E NTS Auckland: Joelle Thomson joellethomson@vodafone.co.nz Gisborne: Justine Tyerman justine.tyerman@clear.net.nz

FROM THE EDITOR TESSA NICHOLSON

Hawkes Bay: Mary Shanahan maryshanahan173@gmail.com Nelson: Neil Hodson neil@hodgson.net.nz Central Otago: Mark Orton seeingredmedia@yahoo.com

A DV E R T I SI N G Sales Manager & Upper North Island: Stephen Pollard stephenp@ruralnews.co.nz Ph: 09 913 9637 Mobile: 021 963 166 Central North Island: Ted Darley ted@ruralnews.co.nz Ph: 07 854 6292 Mobile: 021 832 505 Lower North Island: Ron Mackay Ph: 04 234 6239 Mobile: 021 453 914 South Island: Kaye Sutherland kayes@ruralnews.co.nz Ph: 03 376 5552 Mobile: 021 221 1994

C I R C U L AT I O N & SUBSCRIPTIONS Lorraine Rudelj lorraine@nzwine.com Ph: 09 303 3527 Fax: 09 302 2969 New Zealand Winegrowers PO Box 90 276, Auckland Mail Centre, New Zealand

PUBLISHING & P R E - P R E SS Rural News Group PO Box 331100, Takapuna, Auckland 0740 Ph: 09 307 0399 Location: Top Floor, 29 Northcroft Street, Takapuna, Auckland 0622 Publisher: Brian Hight Managing Editor: Adam Fricker Production: Dave Ferguson, Rebecca Williams

Published by Rural News Group Ltd under authority of New Zealand Winegrowers (jointly representing Wine Institute of New Zealand Inc and New Zealand Grape Growers Council Inc). Unless directly attributed, opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of Rural News Group and/or its directors or management, New Zealand Winegrowers or its constituent organisations. Published every second month. One free copy is mailed to every member of the Institute, the Council, the New Zealand Society of Viticulture & Oenology and the New Zealand Vine Improvement Group, and to such other persons or organisations as directed by the owners, with provision for additional copies and other recipients to be on a subscription basis.

ISSN 1174-5223

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NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015

CONFIDENTLY ACHIEVING New Zealand wine industry is in the enviable “When you have confidence you can have position (when compared to a number of a lot of fun. And when you have fun you can other wine producers) where it can experido amazing things.” So said an American ment and develop even further. footballer by the name of Joe Namath. Which brings us to this issue of NZWineIt’s a quote that I think sums up where grower. As the stories began coming in, I the New Zealand wine industry is at currealised just how many were about achieverently. ments on a range of scales. From a couple of For the past 30 years the industry has new wine styles – one in Nelson, the other in worked tirelessly to create something, North Canterbury, to foreigners who have almost from scratch. Now in 2015, wine is become so enamored of our wine industry New Zealand’s 6th largest export earner and that they have moved here to fulfill their has gained an international reputation that normally comes only with hundreds of years dreams. There are more and more training opportunities for those wanting to pursue a of experience. career in wine, whether that We can all have be as a maker or a viticulconfidence in the turist and New Zealand is products emanating attracting large numbers from this part of the For the past 30 years of foreign students keen world. Our Sauvithe industry has worked to learn our methods and gnon Blanc is among tirelessly to create techniques. the worlds best. Our something, almost from Then there is the worldPinot Noir is equally class research that is being renowned and we have scratch. Now in 2015, undertaken here that is a long list of other vari- wine is New Zealand’s 6th changing the way we treat etals of outstanding largest export earner. old foes such as botrytis. To quality ready to make say nothing of the achievetheir mark. ment of a Hawke’s Bay comHaving lots of fun pany to produce the southern hemisphere’s tends to go without saying. Most people in first ever concrete fermenting egg. the wine industry are there because they All these ‘achievements’ and more fealove it. ture this issue. The sheer enthusiasm expressed by Renowned viticulturist Dr Richard Smart winemakers, viticulturists and marketing sums up just why New Zealand is doing so personnel, is almost unique to this industry. well, in an opinion piece that compares our There have been tough times, but we appear wine industry to that of Australia’s. There is to have weathered them well and come out a lot to be proud of, which Smart is quick to the other side, still smiling and more imporpoint out. tantly still growing. We will always be a small player in terms So that leads us to achieving great things, of world production, but what we can be as the quote above says. There can be no confident about is what we have achieved doubt that that has already happened, with in just 30 years. That confidence is a major the price points our wines achieve, the factor in where we are currently and it can increased export success, and the continued only help us to achieve even greater things in high regard our wines are held in. the future. ■ With the confidence gained already, the

FROM THE CEO PHILIP GREGAN

VOTE In the member referendum. NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015 // 5

REGIONAL REVIEW

NORTHLAND ROD MACIVOR – MARSDEN ESTATE

orthland has 15 Wineries and around 45 vineyards from Mangawhai in the south to Kari Kari in the far North. In 2014, the total crush for the region was 210 tonnes with Chardonnay, Syrah and Pinot Gris being the dominant varieties. Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Merlot, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Pinotage, Cab blends and Chambourcin make up the rest. In this climate, varieties with small or loose bunches tend to do best. In terms of soil types, they differ dramatically within this small region, although clay with a shallow topsoil profile is the most predominant. Heat units and sunshine hours allow for good brix levels but the possibility of rain always mean viticultural practices need to be at their best. Split canopies like Scott Henry with good fruit exposure are common and careful site selection on slopes

with the potential for good air movement is essential. As is the correct rootstock and clonal mix, suited to our unique terroir. While the region is producing just a small amount of the current New Zealand wine tally at the moment, it is not standing still. Within the next few years it is expected to nearly double, in terms of tonnages. Like many other wine regions around the world, Northland is at the mercy of the conditions. We are the earliest in the country to begin vintage, normally around late January. While we may start before anyone else, we don’t necessarily finish early and it is not unusual for harvest to continue right through to the second week of April when the later varieties come on stream. I’d say we’d average four vintages a decade that are excellent, four that we are happy with and two we’d like to forget. In terms of marketing our

The Landing Vineyard in Northland.

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NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015

wine, the majority of the current production is sold locally as we have the advantage of capitalising on the high numbers of tourists, both domestic and international, visiting the region. Given Northland isn’t recognised as a wine growing region, (when compared with some of the others in New Zealand), sales outside can be challenging. Small production also means higher cost of production making it uneconomic to compete at lower price points. However the region is taking steps to increase its reputation. Mark Nobillo has been working with Northland Winegrowers for a number of years to improve viciticultural practices and the quality of fruit in that time has improved dramatically. Winemaking workshops are also held annually bringing in winemakers from around the country to share information and improve quality.

It is not something that happens overnight, we accept that. But if you look back at the past 20 years, the experience of those involved in Northland’s wine industry is growing and the knowledge of what it takes to produce quality grapes coupled with a better understanding of winemaking practices is definitely paying off. That is reflected in the on-going confidence to increase plantings in this part of New Zealand. We are now also seeing experienced winemakers returning to the region, which is a positive sign as we see them as the future. The knowledge they have gained elsewhere will ensure the on-going quality levels increasing. The earth’s wine axis won’t change by what happens in Northland, but I’d like to think we can contribute to what is already one of the world’s most dynamic wine industries. ■

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IN BRIEF

HAWKE’S BAY

MARLBOROUGH

Lest We Forget

Dinner Raises Thousands

Formed three years ago, the Hawke’s Bay Wine Cooperative is commemorating 100 years since the Gallipoli conflict with a stable of wines that proudly sport the Trooper label. On the cooperative’s board, Mal McLennan says the varietals – Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc – are being marketed through RSA clubs with the support of RSA’s national office. The venture was launched by a number of Hawke’s Bay growers who were looking for alternative channels to add value to their grapes, including making their own wine. Exploring what points he and other board members might have in common, Mal, Michael Alcock, Xan Harding, Tiki Mara and Tony Verry discovered they were all descendants of men who had served in the first or second world wars. That inspired the Trooper branding. ■

A fundraising dinner organized by Wine Marlborough raised $21,000 to help the Ni Vanutuan rebuild their lives, following the devastation of Cyclone Pam in March. The money raised on the night has been added to the $11,000 already coming out of the Marlborough community. The local wine industry got behind the dinner, providing bottles for all the tables, as well as a large number of special wines, which were auctioned later in the evening. Scenic Hotel where the evening was held, donated their staff’s time and all the food, to ensure as much money as possible could go directly to the cause. Even the local RSE Ni Vans were on hand to serenade the diners, as they arrived. ■

An Authentic Chinese Voice As part of its three-year China marketing programme launched last year, Hawke’s Bay Winegrowers recently took on Ted Zhang, an EIT student from China. Zhang is working with the promotional association’s Chinese digital marketing agency and educational event contractor in developing content for Chinese social media platforms Weibo and Weixin. “We wanted an authentic Chinese voice and personality to represent the Hawke’s Bay wine region,” says HBWG executive officer James Medina, “someone who was in the industry and could become our brand ambassador.” Zhang will also facilitate the association’s relationship with Shandong Vine and Wine Association which the Hawke’s Bay Winegrowers signed a memorandum of understanding with last September. “We expect to give Ted insider access to the wine industry and some great experiences that typical students wouldn’t normally get.” ■

A number of the local RSE workers from Vanuatua serenaded the guests as they arrived for the fundraising dinner.

Whitehaven Opens New Cellar Door For the first time in 13 years, Marlborough’s Whitehaven Wines will have their own cellar door. The company began their life at a winery in an historic former brewery in Blenheim back in 1993, and opened their first cellar door the next year. However once the company moved out to Rapaura to cope with increased demand, they had to shut the cellar door and have not operated one since. In April they took over the lease of premises at Vines Village and will operate a cellar door from there seven days a week. The site is perfect for the winery, given it is an artistic hub that attracts large numbers of tourists and is also the starting point for a cycle business that links a number of wineries in the Rapaura and Renwick area. ■

Hot Red Hawke’s Bay They are the vintages that connoisseurs rave about and now wine lovers will be able to taste many of them and meet their makers, at this year’s Hot Red Hawke’s Bay wine shows. The cellar doors of more than 30 of the region’s finest wineries will come together for this popular event in Auckland and Wellington, with more than 200 wines to sample - including the legendary 2013 and 2014 vintages. For the first time in the 12-year history, Hot Red Hawke’s Bay is offering exclusive Wine Master Classes led by four Hawke’s Bay experts. Winemakers Hugh Crichton from Vidal Estate and Tony Bish from Sacred Hill Winery will host the Wellington Wine Master Class. Tim Turvey the co-owner and winemaker from Clearview Estate Winery and John Hancock, the founder and owner of Trinity Hill, will run the Auckland Master Class.■

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NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015

Trans Tasman Partnership Giesen Wines has been appointed as the exclusive distributor for Peter Lehmann Wines (PLW) in New Zealand. This new partnership will be the first time an external brand is introduced into the Giesen Wines distribution business. Peter Lehmann Wines is owned by Casella Family Brands, which like Giesen Wines, is a 100% family owned company. Theo Giesen said his team is delighted to be working with another family business that shares similar values. “We always look to create long term partnerships in our major export markets and we are extremely excited about representing the prestigious Peter Lehmann portfolio. We share many similarities as a business, and our wine portfolios complement each other in a market dominated by New Zealand and Australian wines. ■

NATIONAL Food Show Matched With Waipara Hills Waipara Hills has become the national Wine Sponsor of The Food Show 2015, and will be matching the dishes created by celebrity chefs, with their array of wines. The first Food Show was held in Christchurch at the beginning of May. The second is coming up in Auckland at the end of July and the third will be held in Wellington in September. While Waiapra Hills has been a sponsor of the Christchurch Food Show for a number of years, this is the first time they have taken their sponsorship nationwide. “We look forward to showcasing our classic wine varieties in these not-to-bemissed wine and food matched master classes,” MJ Loza, GM of Accolade Wines NZ said. ■

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WAIHEKE ISLAND Move over Waiheke Cabernet The owners of Soho Wines have pulled out almost all of their Cabernet Sauvignon vines at their Jomara Vineyard on Waiheke Island, replacing them with Chardonnay and Syrah, which reflects a trend on the island. “Cabernet Sauvignon is just too hard to ripen and too unpredictable,” says Amber Hatton of Soho Wine Co. The evolution in Soho’s vineyard began in 2012 when all of its Pinot Gris vines were pulled up and replaced with Syrah. The latest replanting saw one hectare of the company’s Cabernet Sauvignon (predominantly) and a little Cabernet Franc both replanted in 2013 with Chardonnay and Syrah. “This is partly due to market demands on the Carter Chardonnay and Valentina Syrah as well as the fact that in some vintages we have difficulty ripening the Cabernet Sauvignon,” says Hatton.■

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NZ WINEGROWER FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

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CONTROLLING BOTRYTIS

SHAKEN NOT DROPPED TESSA NICHOLSON

t was the trial very few wanted to take part in – although given the results - more may have wished they had done so. The trial was to determine if mechanical shaking, not to be confused with mechanical thinning, would lead to less incidence of botrytis. For the past four years, trials undertaken in Marlborough and Hawke’s Bay have highlighted the fact that not only does mechanical thinning lower yields, but interestingly, also lowers levels of botrytis. Marlborough viticultural consultant Mark Allen has been involved as project manager in the previous four years of trials (funded by NZW, MPI and conducted by Plant and Food), and after completion of the trials last year, this year wanted to take them a little further. He wanted to know if you shook a vine at a ‘light’ harvester setting and removed floral trash

without dropping yield, would the botrytis levels also drop accordingly. Part of Dion Mundy’s work in the original trials did show that there was a strong correlation between the amount of residual trash left in the bunch and the degree of botrytis severity. However convincing growers to take part in the trial was a hard task, Allen admits, especially given the smaller crops this year. “The perception for many was, that if you shake the vine, you will reduce crop,” Allen says. “My intention this year, despite the potentially lower cropping levels which could still be susceptible to botrytis, was to see if a ‘light’ shake could have the same positive impact on botrytis without reducing yields” The 2015 vintage will be remembered for being hot and dry – during the early months of this year at least. Allen says that was another reason growers weren’t considering botrytis

levels very seriously when he was looking for trial blocks. The reality though was when it came close to harvest, many vineyards throughout the country were faced with considerable botrytis pressure. “This I suspect was a result of rain events leading up to harvest, but also a result of the high levels of floral trash that remained in the bunch after the cool flowering conditions.” With 40 sites spread from Marlborough to Central Otago, he trialed the shaking method on five varieties; Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. “Over the four years of the trials we have become very familiar with the various harvester settings that can control the degree of thinning desired. When yield reduction is required, we know that we will see damage to the berries and bunches. This year I set the harvesters up so that there

Control % of total incidence

Shaken % of total incidence

Variety and region

was no physical damage to berries or bunches.” Three harvesters were used, a Pellenc, a Gregoire 125 and a Gregoire Tow Behind. Allen says the harvesters were set up with two rods, one aimed at the trunk, the other set 50mm above the fruiting zone. The ground speed was between 5kph and 5.5kph,with the beater speed between 480 and 490. In no situation was crop dropped, only trash, and while there were signs of immediate trauma to the growing tips (as occurred in all the mechanical thinning trials), at harvest Allen could not detect any reduction in berry size or bunch weight, delay in ripening or change in harvest brix levels.

Botrytis Levels The overall result of the trial showed that shaking the vine and removing the trash resulted in at least a 50 percent reduction in

Botrytis % of reduction

Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough

9.5

3.5

Chardonnay Marlborough

3.6

0.6

Pinot Noir Abel Marlborough

3.0

0.7

Sauvignon Blanc 25-yr-old vines Marlborough

12.6

2.2

Riesling Waipara

5.3

1.3

Chardonnay Waipara

13.6

3.6

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NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015

botrytis levels when compared with the Controls. In some cases the reduction was as high as 83 percent. The Controls applied a standard SWNZ MRL botryside programme at flowering, bunch closure and in some cases at veraison. Right shows just some of the results. Note the high level of botrytis incidence in the old Sauvignon Blanc vines – 12.6, dropping to 2.2% after the vines were shaken. A similar effect was seen in the Waipara Chardonnay, dropping from a botrytis level of 13.6 in the control vines, to just 3.6 in the shaken. In both cases, it is likely the grower would have been penalized in terms of payment, because of such high botrytis levels. (At the time of writing the Central Otago results were yet to be confirmed).

Botrytis starting in the centre of the bunch around floral trash. Shaking the vine removes the trash, and the disease threat.

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In the photo below, there are 20 Sauvignon Blanc bunches taken prior to harvest, from both the control vines (left) and the shaken vines (right). Of the 20 bunches in the Control sample, only three had no botrytis infection, compared with 11 uninfected bunches from the vine that was shaken. Compare the levels of infection between the two samples – it is higher in the Control. “There is also a noticeable hardening of the skins, which comes after shaking the vines, which could also play a part in the lower botrytis levels. Both Damian Martin and Mike Trought believe that the trauma caused by shaking the vine needs to be investigated further,” Allen says. While the results are clearly apparent, Allen says there are still many growers who are reticent to undertake any form of shaking.

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He admits a lot of that is because they are afraid they will lose crop, (which he has shown doesn’t happen with a light shake), but they have other concerns as well. “Many believe the costs are too high,” he says. “But the cost using a contract harvester worked out at $400 a hectare or 0.18c/vine, which roughly equates to just a quarter of a tonne per hectare of fruit at harvest.” Compare that with what a botrytis infection would cost in terms of bunch thinning and fruit losses. “Understandably there is also a feeling that mechanical shaking the vine is another job that needs to be done during what is already a very busy time of the year (January) with trimming, leaf plucking and spraying. But it only requires setting the harvester up for one run through, and you have achieved your result.” Another point he says needs

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015

considering, is the fact this is an easy cultural control that involves no chemicals, or spraying regimes. Nor is it dependent upon chemical effectiveness, efficacy or timing. It also fits in well with Sustainable and Bio Grow objectives. A few of the trial sites were run alongside Collard and other blowing options. The outcome, as has been shown in the Plant and Food trials of the last two years, was that ‘shaking’ is considerably more effective at removing floral trash compared to blowing. “Botrytis is the most significant limiting factor to cool climate grape growing. We have very few cultural opportunities to control it apart from leaf plucking and manipulating canopies. I believe that if growers can reduce the dependence of spraying options for botrytis, it could, as estimated in the Mechanical Thinning Trial

save the industry overall $8 million. So the cost savings are starting to add up.” And given the fact there is an increasing number of older harvesters sitting around the country, this is the perfect way of putting them to use. Imagine if you could set them up to shake the vines in January and at the same time provide harvester training to new drivers, prior to vintage occurring. “If you are not reducing yields and not having to worry about how much crop is coming off, it is fairly basic driving –perfect for trainee drivers.” But the most exciting aspect of these trials, which follow on from NZ Winegrower and Sustainable Farming Fund supported research on how to mechanically thin vines, is the fact we can reduce a devastating disease, with little or no impact on crop levels or quality.

Residual floral trash from ‘control’ bunch of Riesling, prior to harvest.

“If for example a new botryside was released that showed the same results as a ‘light’ mechanical shake of at least a 50% reduction of botrytis infection, then I would be sure that the industry would adopt it very quickly. The

outcome of what we are seeing with mechanical shaking is new to us all. For example, mechanical shaking is hardly mentioned in the 2013 publication of ‘Understanding Botrytis in New Zealand Vineyards’. The process

and scientific understanding of mechanical shaking requires a different mindset. As commonly said – ‘it just doesn’t make sense to put a harvester through a vineyard at that time of year’. Whilst I can understand that, the reality and

results of the last five years show that it does make sense.” • For the full report on the Mechanical Thinning trials, and the resulting impact on botrytis levels, visit the NZWine members research pages. ■

Rivulis I r r ig at io n NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015 // 15

REGIONS HAWKE’S BAY

DELEGAT’S MASSIVE LAND BUY MARY SHANAHAN

he Delegat Group has paid $29.3 million for Hawke’s Bay Dairies’ 838ha farms in Crownthorpe to support its long-term growth strategy. The purchase is a highly significant development for Hawke’s Bay. Last year, the region had a total of 4816 hectares in producing vineyard, which would make this new venture by far the largest ever developed in the region. The new venture is in two blocks, both owned by Hawke’s Bay Dairies. The main chunk, 487ha, is on the corner of Crownthorpe and Matapiro roads,

adjoining an existing Delegat vineyard. A further 350ha is the farm’s Rauriki support block about five kms away. The purchase will settle in May next year. Planting is aimed at lifting production from 2020. The company is in a five-year phase aimed at increasing production from about two million cases a year to three million in 2019. In 2013, Delegat’s bought a 61ha vineyard as well as the winery from Matariki Wines and Stony Bay Wines – both had gone into receivership.

Delegat Group already has Hawke’s Bay’s single biggest vineyard with some 290ha in production in the Crownthorpe area, where it grows its Merlot. Managing director Graeme Lord says the higher altitude subregion, off the Napier-Taihape Road, offers prime grapegrowing conditions. “The significant land acquisition will enable Delegat Group to meet strong growth in global demand for its super premium Hawke’s Bay Pinot Gris and sparkling wine,” Lord said. In full production, the

land, previously owned by the Manawatu-based Hopkins Farming Group, has the potential to produce more than 550,000 cases a year. Delegat’s also has established vineyards in the Gimblett Gravels subregion west of Hastings. A new winery with capacity to process 10,000 tonnes of grapes a year is under construction on the fringes of the city and it is expected to be ready to handle next year’s vintage. The newly-acquired Crownthorpe land will be progressively planted from spring 2017. ■

An image of Delegat’s new winery being built in Hawke’s Bay.

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NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015

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INTERNATIONAL NEWS

NZ WINE STORE TESSA NICHOLSON

“This is a turning point for the UK and it is long overdue. London’s wine lovers will welcome this enterprise with open palates, looking to be amazed and educated in equal measure.” So says Matthew Jukes, regarding the news that London is to get the UK’s first ever store dedicated solely to New Zealand’s premium wine. Mel Brown’s (owner of New Zealand Cellars) bid to raise funds to open a specialist New Zealand wine store via crowd-funding platform Kickstarter has been a huge success. The goal was to raise £35,000, with 103 percent of that raised within just five days.

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By the time the campaign had ended, Brown had raised more than £42,500, allowing her to develop the Brixton based store to an even higher degree than she had originally hoped. The whole process has been humbling for her, especially given she had only a matter of weeks to put together her campaign and raise the funds, for a store-cum bar in a new development in the centre of Brixton. It was the time constraints she says, that led her to go public for funding assistance. “The immediacy of the opportunity we have been presented meant we had very little time to

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015

pull the required money together. Watching several very successful crowd-funding campaigns get launched and finish fully funded in short periods of time gave me the idea that by creating a powerful campaign we might have a chance of convincing everyone this was a worthwhile investment for the future of premium New Zealand wine in the UK.” While Brixton in south London may be best known for its Caribbean influence, for Brown it was the obvious choice for a specialist wine store. “I live in south London, so a location close to home was imperative for me. Travel time is

minimised and I have more time to spend with my daughter, when I’m not talking about New Zealand wine. “Aside from these obvious points, Brixton is going through an amazing regeneration at the moment.” The New Zealand store will be the only wine store within the Pop Brixton development, which Brown says will host 1000 or more people over Thursday, Friday and Saturday each week. “The reach and awareness created if we were a single shop on a high street would not have the same impact as this one offers by utilizing the expertise within a core community,” she says. “The New Zealand Cellar’s infancy has contributed to us making this decision and we are hoping to grow steadily to move to that stand alone shop.” Brown’s on-line business currently lists 200 New Zealand premium wines from more than 70 producers. She says initially the plan is to have the same wines available within the shop, although expanding the portfolio is already being discussed as is a plan to directly import from New Zealand. While the space available for the store is not huge, Brown says they will make the most of it, lining each wall with New Zealand wine, and providing a daily tasting of at least a dozen wines. The space will also be available for New Zealand wineries visiting London, who want to conduct tastings. Given the funding achieved was far higher than what she had set out to raise, just who were the people investing in Brown’s dream? “The majority of pledges we received were from the New Zea-

CROWD FUNDING SUCCESS New Zealand Cellars is not the only company to have success with crowd funding in the past few months. Invivo Wines, founded by old school friends Tim Lightbourne and winemaker Rob Cameron have also had huge success. The guys had hoped to raise a minimum of $500,000 when they launched their crowd funding campaign in mid March. However two weeks before the campaign ended, they had raised a New Zealand record and the maximum amount allowed, $2 million (400% oversubscribed!) Utilising the platform Snowball Effect, Invivo now welcomes 439 new shareholders, who will together hold 20 percent of the company. Invivo Wines came onto the market back in 2008 – right in the middle of a financial crisis. Via some very clever marketing, including having their wine drunk on set by British talk-show host Graham Norton – who is now also a shareholder, the company has grown exponentially and featured in Deloitte’s Fast 50 New Zealand Companies in 2012. So much so that any further development required a boost in capital. According to the NZ Herald, Invivo has experienced more than 200 percent revenue growth since 2011, has forecast net income of $152,000 from sales of 5.1 million in the 12 months to March 31 this year. The company is targeting revenue of $25 million by 2020, and already sells its wines into 17 international markets.■

land wine industry and producers. And quite shockingly, the British wine and food press. There was an underlying factor across all pledges that was based around the encouragement to actively play a part in watching New Zealand wine succeed.” Brown says she is now turning her attention to developing New Zealand Cellars on-line site further and ensuring it is integrated into the store. “The extreme support received over the last 12 months has been

a testament of the strength and confidence the New Zealand wine industry has for the UK market and for this I am truly grateful. The UK is very much a developed market, requiring continual nurturing and investment. If I can offer support by generating further engagement and sales for New Zealand producers, then hopefully this can confirm our status as a premium wine producer and extend the recognition our producers deserve.” ■ tessa.nicholson@me.com

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WINEMAKING NEWS

A MAGNIFICENT EGG TESSA NICHOLSON

ine fermenters come in all shapes and sizes. From stainless steel giants, to French or American oak barrels and German Fuders. But now a New Zealand partnership has released the very first concrete egg fermenter in the southern hemisphere. Well-known Hawke’s Bay winemaker Tony Bish was well aware

of the “egg’s” reputation, having read a number of articles about them. But seeing them en masse in Argentina 18 months ago, got him thinking seriously about doing something similar here at home. “A lot of the more innovative and interesting places we visited in Argentina had these concrete eggs. The people we spoke to were enthralled with the wines com-

Looking more like a rocket than a fermenter, this is the concrete egg Tony Bish has his Chardonnay stored in.

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NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015

ing out of them. They explained how they worked and why and that piqued my interest.” Besides Argentina, the only other two countries producing concrete eggs are France and America, but the cost of importing them is prohibitive. That got Bish thinking – could Kiwi ingenuity be put to good use to create a similar product here in New Zealand. Enter Josh Winters, a former vineyard hand from The Crossings. He had recently taken over his father’s business, creating concrete water and septic tanks. “We had a concrete tank out at Crossroads, so I knew a little about it, and when Tony came to us with the idea, we leapt into it. But it has definitely been a challenge,” Winters says. For those who don’t know what I am talking about – here is the rundown on concrete fermenting eggs. They are shaped, unsurprisingly, like an egg, wider at the base, tapering off at the top. Made of concrete, means the fermenter provides oxygenation of the wine, similar to the way an oak barrel does, without any oak characters being imparted. But it is the shape that creates the most interest, given it allows for movement of the wine over lees, without any mechanical or manual involvement. “There are two effects going on,” Bish explains. “There is the undeniable force of the earth’s rotation at play. Think about water going down a plughole. But also in a convection kind of sense, there is always a temperature gradient from the top of the tank to the bottom, which occurs naturally. And when that happens,

because the egg has no straight sides and due to the tapering at the top, you get the convection current being compressed. As it can’t go anywhere, it comes back down. So you are getting motion forces inside the egg. The vertical convection current compressed and returning to the bottom and the rotational aspect of the egg.” What this does to the wine, is provide a gentle passive motion of solids, which Bish says “causes integration and textural building”. Oxidisation wise, because the cement has micro pores, oxygen is trapped inside the egg when it’s empty. Then once filled, the oxygen is released slowly. “They do say that the eggs impart a flavour of minerality,” says Bish, “which is probably something that comes from the concrete. But minerality is a very desirable thing in the modern world. It is the holy grail of wine at the moment.” The desire to create that within the wines has seen a massive resurgence towards concrete tanks throughout Europe, as well as the taking off of egg fermenters throughout the northern hemisphere. For Bish himself, he says the egg relies on less external manipulation. “For me I want to make small volumes of unique wines that have soul. I don’t think you can do that in stainless. It either has to be barrel or concrete to make those unique wines that have textural minerality to them.” So with the obvious and wellrecorded qualities of concrete eggs known, how does one go about creating one. For Winters, that was the

challenge. First of all he had to come up with a design, given eggs come in all shapes and sizes. (Think duck, versus chicken, versus sparrow Bish says.) There was a lot of designing prior to a mold being created. The next challenge was exactly what type of cement to use. Given normal cement has lime, that was out of the question. But with some help from a concrete specialist at the Callaghan Institute, an answer was found. Winters is now importing cement that is inert and acid resistant. “It makes a very dense concrete as well. The sand and aggregate size is very very small, so we can really compact it into the mold.” Talking of molds, that was his next big challenge and one that created a lot of sleepless nights. “Fitting it into a fiberglass mold meant I had to get very inventive. But having access to a

brains trust of people around here has been really good.” The end product is a 1600 litre fermenter, weighing in at two tonnes. The very first one off the block is now in use at Two Rivers Wines in Marlborough, (see box) with orders coming in from a number of other interested parties. Bish himself has an egg filled with Chardonnay which he says will be a New Zealand first. “My ‘egg made’ Chardonnay will be released under my own label, Tony Bish Wines. The fruit is hand picked Mendoza Chardonnay from the Te Awanga subregion of Hawke’s Bay.” Being the first to produce concrete eggs in Australasia, and only the forth company in the world to do so, both Bish and Winters believe the market is their oyster, not only in New Zealand. “The natural wine market in Australia is huge at the moment,

Tony Bish gets a closer look at the inside of the fermenting egg.

about 10 years ahead of New Zealand,” says Bish. “I think these guys are going to be so excited to know that they can import these eggs from New Zealand, at a far cheaper price than if they had to import from France or California.”

The eggs are being built by Winters’ company NZ Tanks, and sold via Bish’s company KTB Brokerage. One of the eggs will be on display at the Romeo Bragato conference in August. ■ tessa.nicholson@me.com

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NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015 // 21

A SAUVIGNON EGG

The very first concrete egg off the Hawke’s Bay production line is now sitting tucked up in Marlborough, full of high premium Sauvignon Blanc. Two Rivers Wines have been keen to get an egg fermenter for some time, given assistant winemaker Ashley Holland has had experience of them, when working in California. However, like so many other wineries, the cost of freighting one from America or France made the idea financially unviable. So when Holland and winemaker and owner Dave Clouston heard about the New Zealand development, they were quick off the mark. Their egg arrived just in time for this year’s vintage, and is being used solely for their top of line Sauvignon Blanc, Altitude. Clouston describes the viticulture behind this wine as being as diametrically opposed to conventional Sauvignon Blanc as it can be. “It is severely crop thinned, we do a full leaf pluck to gain fruit exposure, as we are trying to burn off the pyrazines. We use a lot less irrigation and it has a lot longer hanging time so we get a riper profile.” The resulting fruit will end up being accentuated within the concrete egg, Holland says, which will provide the ensuing wine with something special. “Before we were aging the wine in neutral barrels, but it is very hard to keep them in good condition and not pick up a cheesy oak barrel character. I love how the flavours change over a period with small oxygenation coming in through the staves (of the barrels) but

Ashley and Dave.

what I disliked was the sappiness that 10 months in you start to pick up. “My experience of working with concrete, is it makes the most complete wine, the most rounded out wine without notes of oak.” Clouston agrees saying that it is like looking back to the past, to create a new future. “As a new world we moved to preserve fruit by using stainless steel. Now with the concrete egg we are going back to adding more texture. This wine will have a more natural feel than what we have been used to. I can’t wait to see what it looks like by February of next year.” ■

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INTERNATIONAL OPINION

NEW ZEALAND VERSUS AUSTRALIA B Y R I C H A R D S M A R T ,   S M A R T V I T I C U L T U R E . E M A I L : R I C H A R D @ S M A R T V I T. C O M . A U

This article was first published in Wine & Viticulture Journal, Australia and is reprinted here with their permission.

Why Compare Australia And New Zealand? Why, indeed? There is compelling evidence that the New Zealand wine sector is in better health than that of Australia. Figure 1 shows the patterns of export volume and value for both countries, from 1990 to present. In 2007 Australia’s export value began to fall. There was a decline at an average rate of A$148 million per annum from 2007 to 2014, compared with an increase of NZ$79m per annum for the same period. At these rates of change, New Zealand would surpass Australia’s export earnings in 2018 on a dollar for dollar basis. The exchange rate at the time of writing was AUD = 1.04 NZD. The rate of decline of Aus-

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tralia’s earnings has slowed since 2011 (see Figure 1). Using the last three year’s data only this would indicate that New Zealand exports by value will surpass those of Australia in 2022. It’s not a bad effort for a country with a quarter of the vineyard area of Australia (NZ had 35,500ha in 2014 and growing, Australia had 148,000ha in 2012 and shrinking). There are other signs as well. A Kiwi wine, Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc, is the biggest selling white wine in Australia. The average value of New Zealand wine into the UK is the highest of any country. The US is about to become the largest market for New Zealand wine, and New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir are the indemand varietal wines according to recent reports. These varieties also represent the top two plantings in New Zealand, so that is encouraging for continued growth.

which is unfortunate for Australia. I have never understood why. I believe there are other reasons why New Zealand is outperforming Australia (and other countries), and in this article I want to review them. They are not presented necessarily in order of importance.

New Zealand Wine Sector Is Better Organised New Zealand has one industry organisation, New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW). Australia had four, but only recently changed to three (AGWA, Winemakers’ Federation of Australia (WFA) 900.0

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All That Glitters Is Not Sauvignon Blanc No doubt New Zealand was lucky with Sauvignon Blanc in Marlborough, developing a reputation as it now has as a classic wine, and maybe the world’s best Sauvignon. It is certainly well known, and very distinctive. Interestingly, on a competitive basis, similar climates occur in Australia, in Tasmania mostly; the widely planted clone in New Zealand is not so widely planted in Australia,

and Wine Grape Growers Australia (WGGA)). NZW represents some 850 growers and 700 wine producers; it was formed in 2002 by merging the Grape Growers Council and the Wine Institute. It has roles of advocacy at all levels, providing a global marketing platform, facilitating research, providing strategic information and organising sector wide events such as the annual Romeo Bragato Conference and Air New Zealand wine awards. It is funded by compulsory levies on grape and wine production. NZW has strong connections with the government, presumably because it is easier to deal with one

Figure 1: Export volumes and values, Australia and New Zealand 1991 to 2014.

MILLION LITRES

I worked as a government viticultural scientist in New Zealand in the 1980s in the early stages of growth of the present sector. I have been a frequent visitor since, speaking and consulting, and have witnessed the continuing growth and development. Since then the Australian wine sector has boomed, then crashed. The New Zealand industry has boomed, then stalled, and is now growing again. Many Australian producers bemoan the WET tax, but the issues are much greater than this. Here I present my perspectives on what I see and hear on both sides of the Tasman.

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than many industry bodies. If you want to see what I mean, compare websites and the industry information available on both sides of the Tasman. Industry solidarity is an important difference between New Zealand and Australia, and surely contributes to the overall performance. New Zealand has wisely opted for an annual industry-wide conference, the Romeo Bragato conference, named after the Italian-born pioneering viticultural scientist of New Zealand. This three- day event rotates around the regions more or less, and offers a program of technical, sustainability, marketing and advocacy issues, with the focus and theme changing yearly. There is a wine competition, a young viticulturist award, a trade exhibition and a conference dinner. Last year there were 540 attendees. The Australian approach does

not, in my opinion, encourage such solidarity across all sectors of the industry. There is the Australian Wine Industry Technical Conference (AWITC) held every three years. It is a large event with more than 1000 attendees, and limited to capital cities. It is organised by the Australian Society of Viticulture and Oenology (ASVO) and the Australian Wine Research Institute (AWRI). The 16th AWITC in 2016 is scheduled over six days from 23-28 July. There are many international speakers, poster presentations, and a conference dinner. All in all, it will be a grand affair, but very expensive to attend. Once essentially covering viticulture and oenology, conference presentations in marketing and sensory evaluation are now more common, and more recently presentations of limited discussion about industry issues

have been included. There is a lot that can happen in a dynamic, export-orientated wine sector over three years. I wonder if the size, length, expense and especially the frequency of this conference is out of date and inappropriate to current needs. There is also the biennial Outlook Wine Industry Conference organized by WFA, held over two days and dealing more with industry matters, but from the viewpoint of hosting single industry organization. Then there is the SA Wine Industry Association’s oneday Wine Industry Environment Conference.

New Zealand Wines Are Better, So Says The Consumer, And Some Wine Judges Of course, this is a generalisation that will cause much angst among (Australian) readers, but

the facts remain about the average value of Australian and New Zealand wines in many markets. The reasons are simple: New Zealand wine regions are cooler. For the varieties important in today’s marketplace, wines are acknowledged as being better appreciated when not grown in hot regions. Australia’s inland irrigation regions are euphemistically called ‘warm’, and the rest ‘cool’, but these terms are not appropriate and surely their use should be discouraged. Mean January Temperature (MJT ) is an index used to describe the heat in a viticultural region. The majority of grape production in Australia occurs in temperatures ranging from 19.5-24.5°C (and the majority of production is at the hotter end, around 23°C), while in New Zealand the corresponding figures are 17.5-19.5°C. To put these figures in some perspective,

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015 // 25

the MJT for Sunraysia is 23.9°C, Griffith 23.8°C, Barossa Valley 21.4°C, Yarra Valley 19.4°C, Adelaide Hills 19.1°C, Hobart 17.7°C, and Launceston 17.2°C. Corresponding values for New Zealand are Hawke’s Bay 18.8°C, Marlborough 17.6°C, and Central Otago 17.1°C. I present data for Tasmania, where I recently lived, as it is an important potential area for vineyard production, but there are other cool climate regions on the mainland, typically associated with the Great Dividing Range and southern coast, which could also warrant vineyard expansion. There are historical and social reasons why Australia has planted so many grapes in such hot regions, but the question remains why these hot area plantings expanded so much in the most recent boom. Australia could plant vineyards in cool regions with temperatures like those in New Zealand. For example, I can see that plantings of the present size of those in New Zealand could be accommodated in Tasmania alone. I have done the surveys. The climate, land and water are available. For reasons best known to itself, the Australian wine sector has failed to significantly invest in genuine cool climate regions. It could, and it should, if it wants to be globally competitive, at least in the premium wine sector. The relative climate position of Australian vineyards becomes worse with anticipated global warming. New Zealand, and Tasmania, are small islands in a large, cold ocean and are predicted to suffer less impact from global warming. Already the impact of heat waves is experienced in Australian vineyards, especially damaging to fruit ripening and leaf health, a situation that is predicted to worsen. Of course some varieties are adapted to warmer regions, and Shiraz wines of the Barossa Val-

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ley and Mclaren Vale have international reputations. Sadly this is being challenged by concepts of improved quality for Shiraz grown in cool climates. The international Three Nations competition, now expanded to Six Nations has often seen Shiraz wines from the Gimblett Gravels of Hawke’s Bay out perform those of Australia. Another general comment is that Australian vineyard development and wine promotion has emphasized variety, whereas in New Zealand there has been more variety by region development. The latter approach is arguably more relevant to today’s market and to regional promotion.

Sustainable Viticulture New Zealand has taken an early lead in sustainable viticulture programs, being established in 1994 and commercially adopted in 1997. It is now supported by NZW, which is conspicuous on its website, and is embraced by growers through all regions. The program is seen as a ‘framework for viticultural and winemaking practices that protect the environment while efficiently and economically producing premium winegrapes and wine’. This is seen as being important in today’s wine markets, part of the New Zealand ‘story’ of clean and green. There is a goal of having 100% of grapegrowers and winemakers operating under the approved and independently audited sustainability programs, and there are published standards and auditing procedures. There is an Organic Winegrowers New Zealand Growers Association, founded in 2007, dedicated to the production of high quality organic wines. This organisation has proclaimed a goal in 2011 of 20% of all of New Zealand’s vineyards being organic. Working with NZW, the organisation developed an Organic Focus Vineyard Project in 2011 to document the impact of changing from conventional

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015

to organic production over three seasons and in three regions. The results are freely available and have been the subject of seminars and vineyard visits. Sustainable wine and grape production is not so well developed in Australia. Entwine Australia was launched in December 2009 by WFA with initial support from the Federal Government. It was developed with wineries and vineyard operators in mind. The program currently has about 735 members spread across all wineproducing regions. Entwine does not set requirements of performance criteria, nor does it provide auditing. It operates in the context of a voluntary use of a process standard. In April 2012, the McLaren Vale Sustainable Winegrowing Australia program was developed. The program is based on self-assessment, and there is no auditing. It is open to growers throughout Australia. It remains to be seen how popular it becomes, despite its self-proposed excellence. By any measure, New Zealand has taken the high ground on the sustainability issue.

Research Having a background in viticulture research in both countries gives me a particular interest here. I am aware that research can significantly assist local industries, especially when targeted to local problems. NZW runs an extensive portfolio of research projects with the aim of ‘Providing and promoting a technological basis for the New Zealand grape and wine industry to remain internationally competitive as the leading producer of premium quality wines’. NZW contracts research from government research institutes and both Lincoln and Auckland Universities, and some other government funding agencies. NZW co-invests significant levy funds into these

programs to create a critical mass of research activity in the grape and wine area. Major research programs are directed by NZW, co-funded by government, and can involve extended timeframes (up to seven years). One interesting R&D program is into ‘lifestyle wines’, namely high quality but with lower alcohol and calorific content. A feature of the NZW research program is that it has significant industry input. The program is managed by NZW’s permanent staff, but there is a NZW research committee comprising industry representatives who are currently active in grape and wine production. This provides for a strong industry focus on research activities, and local problem solving has high priority. An equally strong focus is in the extension of research results. Research progress reports and summaries are carried in the New Zealand Winegrower. Research results are not limited to scientific paper reporting, but deliberately extended for industry use. Researchers have an obligation to write popular articles. The NZW website lists research reports (some of which are available only to members), online tools, archived New Zealand Winegrower articles and excellent fact sheets. NZW’s research program is particularly active in grapevine diseases threatening the industry. There was a significant problem with the spread of grapevine leafroll virus 3 (LRV3) in the Gimblett Gravels, one of New Zealand’s most important terroirs. Based on local research and international cooperation, and the support of landowners in the area, the NZW program appears effective in overcoming the problem, which is a notable achievement. I know Australian vineyards where LRV3 is spreading and attracting little response. There is currently much

emphasis on grapevine trunk diseases, not surprisingly since Sauvignon Blanc is so susceptible. Grape and wine research administration in Australia is in transition, with the responsibility passing to the recently formed AGWA from the previous Grape and Wine Research and Development Corporation (GWRDC). AGWA is funded by grapegrowers and winemakers through levies and user-pays charges and the Australian government, which provides matching funding for R&D investments. Currently the interim board of AGWA has strong industry representation, but whether this will persist remains to be seen. There is no website information available on industry input to the allocation of research funds. There were certainly complaints about the lack of current industry experience among members in prior GWRDC

boards, which were responsible for funding allocations. Research and extension providers include the Australian Wine Research Institute, the National Wine and Grape Industry Centre, CSIRO, universities and state agencies. Regional programs are a key initiative of AGWA that seek to actively encourage and support innovation, extension and adoption across wine regions. AGWA has a stated strong commitment to innovation and adoption principles. The AGWA website lists previous research reports, as well as fact sheets. The fact sheets were not as comprehensive as those for New Zealand, nor as up to date, but this may reflect the organisation being in transition. In any event, I would conclude that research to support the grape and wine industry is more relevant and better managed in New Zea-

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land, with more industry input. This opinion is subjective, and the Australian effort may be disadvantaged by the recent change of governance. Only time will tell if the game will be lifted.

Conclusion From the attributes considered here, New Zealand could be considered to be outperforming Australia, which I believe is contributing to the better export effort. There are other issues that could be considered, like why New Zealand has not gone down the geographical indication route for regional definition, as Australia has done. That could be interesting. Has the plethora of small GIs helped Australia’s export effort? I doubt it. I had a fear while writing this article that some may be inclined to shoot the messenger. After all, I could be seen as

critical of many organisations in the Australian wine sector. Most have been mentioned in this article. Be that as it may, I would hope that my opinion and observations may lead to opportunities to improve the lot of the Australian wine sector, which was the intention. I do not want to suggest that all is rosy in New Zealand. I hear grumbles about NZ Winegrowers being too powerful, and about the costs and efficiency of the sustainable winegrowing program. There are sure to be other problems that I do not hear about. Furthermore, I do not want to appear to be overly critical of the Australian wine sector’s achievements. I do care that this wonderful industry might again regain economic stability for all of its stakeholders, and begin to reverse its fortunes. Don’t abuse me because I care. ■

Chris Wise D (09) 259 4845 M 021 393 350 E chris.wise@panprint.co.nz

Gavin McQuoid D (09) 259 4835 M 0275 996 863 E gavin@panprint.co.nz

Vanessa Bickerton D 09 259 4844 M 021 929 380 E vanessa.bickerton@panprint.co.nz

Craig Cuff D 09 259 4846 M 021 309 574 E craig.cuff@panprint.co.nz panprint.co.nz

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015 // 27

SMART THINKING

Richard Smart is no stranger to the wine industry in both Australia and New Zealand. Which is why his comments on the previous pages are so worthy of reading. He says he has had concerns about the future of the Aussie wine industry for a number of years. And likewise has been proud to watch the growth of New Zealand. In particular as he has pointed out, there are a number of reasons why the two countries have gone in almost opposite directions. “New Zealand has made a number of moves that have been essential to their success,” he told NZ Winegrower. “Having a single body representing the industry is one. And having a cool climate varietal mix is another.” He said this country has done a very good job of continuing the European model of associating certain varieties with specific regions. “So in Hawke’s Bay you have certain varieties, Marlborough has others and then Central Otago has others again. Australia has not done that. They have planted the same varieties everywhere. In Australia if the marketing people have said people want to drink Shiraz, it has seen Shiraz being grown everywhere,

from the cool climates to the hot climates.” While Smart believes our cousins across the Tasman will find their way back, he did have a warning for New Zealand. We can’t go on thinking that we will forever be able to make the most distinctive Sauvignon Blanc in the world and/or that will always be the preferred consumer choice. “These two factors are what the New Zealand wine industry’s success has been built on.”

He agreed that the emergence of quality Pinot Noir is providing us “many years in the wine world,” but also believed that more emphasis should be placed on promoting the quality of our sparkling wines. “For reasons I do not understand, New Zealand has not tried to capture the world for sparkling wines. It is the most obvious fit; high premium, high prestige, and you can only do it in cool climates. Why does New Zealand not do this? It is the country’s blind spot.” ■

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featuring some of the world’s leading wine experts... Bob Campbell MW

Mike Bennie

Daenna van Mulligen

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New ZealaNd

CaNada

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www.sauvignon2016.com 30 //

aUSTRalia

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015

New ZealaNd

CELEBRATING SAUVIGNON BLANC S

auvignon 2016, The International Sauvignon Blanc Celebration is the first of its kind in New Zealand and an opportunity for the New Zealand wine industry to host the world’s leading wine producers, experts and key influencers and shine the spotlight on this diverse, expressive and sought-after variety. The event will run over three days from Monday 1 February to Wednesday 3 February, 2016 in Marlborough.

The event programme has been designed to demonstrate the complexity of Sauvignon Blanc, emerging styles, vineyard practices and winemaking influences. There will be opportunities for guests to sample over 200 different examples of Sauvignon Blanc from across the globe, to learn from experts in the field of science, research, journalism and gastronomy while experiencing some stunning locations in New Zealand’s home of Sauvignon -

Marlborough. Guests to Sauvignon 2016 will hear from the people who research, grow and make the wine on subjects of regionality, styles and diversity. They will challenge people’s theories and perceptions on everything from agricultural methods and winemaking secrets to stylistic preferences and the future of this variety. Regarded as a “fresh and innovative” event, Sauvignon 2016 explores the variety and what

makes it so distinctive, bringing the latest developments from the grass roots level. The programme will feature international tastings at renowned winery locations, seminars and panel discussions, keynote speakers from both inside and outside the world of wine, a secluded summer garden party, a vintage train journey across the Awatere Valley and Kaikoura Coast, the quitessential kiwiana beach party and an ultimate Gala dinner finale. ■

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NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015 // 31

Brought to you by

YOUNG GUNS

Roots, Shoots & Fruits Soil Health, Plant Health, OUR Health

NORTHLAND How Long Have You Worked In Northland? This has been my fourth harvest at Marsden Estate What Brought You Here? Having grown up in Northland, the laid back outdoorsorientated lifestyle was a major drawcard. Also a great place to bring up our children. My partner and I both have our folks living here so it’s really nice to have them about. Where Have You Travelled In Wine To Get Here? I finished studying Winemaking and Viticulture at Nelson/ Marlborough Institute of Technology in 2003. I have since worked a couple of harvests in each of the following regions; Marlborough, Hawke’s Bay and Chile. A year in Margaret River. A harvest in Canada (BC) and three in Gisborne. Great times. Such a good occupation for travelling. J U S T I N AT K I N S O N AGE 35 WINEMAKER/ V I T I C U LT R A L I S T. M A R S D E N E S TAT E

What Do You Enjoy Most About Your Job? The people I get to work with. You get to meet so many nice people with similar interests to you. And it’s a job where you are learning and problem solving every day. Great stimulation for the brain. What Do You Enjoy Most About Northland? As far as wine goes, it would have to be the great fruit we get to play with in the winery. At Marsden we also do a bit of contract winemaking for other vineyards. Pretty much most vineyards from Mangawhai to Kaitia so we see a lot of small parcels of usually pretty good fruit.

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When You’re Not Making Wine Or Growing Grapes? I will either be hanging with my lovely little family or surfing with mates. We are very spoilt for choice when it comes to stunning beaches. West coast is only an hour drive. Some great camping spots on both coasts, especially north of Kerikeri It Sucks When…. There are good waves over harvest or the beer fridge is empty. Your Favourite Wine? Can I say red and white? A very

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015

hard question. I don’t think I have tried it yet. The last memorable wine was a Penfolds Reserve Bin A Adelaide Hills Chardonnay. I thought it was a very good wine Which Wine Region Excites You Most Right Now? It would have to be Northland. Since working in Northland I have seen enormous potential for high quality wine production. The landscape is so variable. There are loads of nooks and crannies, different microclimates and soil structures in the area. A good site (coastal seems to do

better) and a little more vineyard management proves it is possible to grow spectacular fruit up here. The last three vintages have been great, especially the 2015. Some of the fruit I have seen up here definitely rivals the best I have seen on all of my travels with wine. Future Aspirations? Not so sure. I would eventually like to have a piece of land up here in the north somewhere so I can grow a small parcel of grapes. Maybe only focus on one or two varieties, and try to do them consistently well. ■

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 ALAN COLLINSON AGE : 36 WINEMAKER. CARRINGTON WINERY JADE LP (TRADING AS K A R I K A R I E S TAT E . )

How Long Have You Worked In Northland? I have worked here for 17 years.

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    

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What Brought You Here?

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I grew up in Kaitaia and after doing a course for two years in Auckland I came back home and landed a job working at Okahu Estate Winery. First I was in the vineyard, then into the winery and then cellar door sales as well.

Where Have You Travelled In Wine To Get Here?

I have had hands on experience in small wineries with different winemakers, each with a different perspective on how to make good wines. Correspondence course in Winemaking and Viticulture, and one vintage overseas in France.

    

What Do You Enjoy Most About Your Job? The variety. It is very busy during vintage, then it slows down. I get to do some pruning in the winter. The wine shows in summer. Wine tasting with other wineries where I compare our wines to see how they are coming along. Some cellar door duties and winery tours. Then it all starts again. When You’re Not Making Wine Or Growing Grapes? I enjoy being so close to both coasts , if fishing is no good on one coast you can go fishing on the other. Also I can gather Tuatua from Ninety Mile Beach and work on my parent’s farm. The climate is great also. It Sucks When…. You need one more week of fine weather to maximise grape potential and a storm is forecast so you have to harvest early. Your Favourite Wine? Pinotage, very underrated variety which grows very well here in Northland. Great structure and cellars well. Which Wine Region Excites You Most Right Now? I have to say Northland, There is so much potential for different varieties up here, not limited to any single variety. Grapes are harvested in warm weather almost always before the cold autumn sets in. Pruning is done in mild weather not having to worry about frosts or harsh cold weather. Also the potential for tourism is great. Land and housing is more affordable. The number of vineyards seems to be ever increasing. Future Aspirations? To do more travelling, try some wine from other parts of the world. ■

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         

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  



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 





NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015 // 33

Young Guns – brought to you by Roots, Shoots & Fruits

BEN BYRNE AGE - 34 WINEMAKING MARSDEN E S T A T E , V I N E YA R D W O R K ON THREE OTHER SMALL BLOCKS

How Long Have You Worked In Northland? I came back to Northland in 2006.

in Margaret River, Marlborough, Central Victoria, Sonoma County, and the Yarra Valley.

as much as I should. I’m sure most people working in this industry feel the same way, especially at this time of year (vintage).

What Do You Enjoy Most About Your Job?

It Sucks When….

The endless variety of work. I get to work with grapes from multiple different sites around the region, and a huge range of varieties. Plus I get to do everything from pruning, to plunging, to selling wine. Every day is different. What Do You Enjoy Most About Northland?

It’s warm (mostly), and we have both coasts within driving distance. If you like surfing, fishing, and diving, it’s perfect.

It’s home for me. It’s just a unique part of the world, and once it’s in your blood it’s pretty hard to stay away!

The wine industry up here is small, but it’s very collegial and supportive. The wine we produce seems to get better every year, and there are lots of new things going on up here, so it’s an exciting place to work.

Where Have You Travelled In Wine To Get Here?

When You’re Not Making Wine Or Growing Grapes?

I studied at Lincoln, I’ve worked in wineries

See above, except I don’t seem to get out

What Brought You Here?

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NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015

You start having dreams about refrigeration disasters, broken tractors, and scary weather maps! Your Favourite Wine? Anything that’s interesting, challenging, or just tastes really good. Which Wine Region Excites You Most Right Now? Northland, of course! Especially some of the new vineyards close to the coast. We’ve received fruit this year that is up there with anything I’ve seen, anywhere. Sure, we can still have tough seasons, but the viticulture and winemaking has improved so much over the last few years that we’re definitely becoming a lot more consistent. Future Aspirations? To grow better grapes, and make better wine. There is so much to learn in this business, it’s never ending, to me that’s what makes it such a compelling industry to work in. ■

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NEW E R O T S

REGIONS CENTRAL OTAGO

HAND PICKED HARVESTING MARK ORTON

very year in April, or therea-bouts, large groups of people gather together for the annual ritual of harvest. Full-time viticulture teams welcome strangers and friends alike, to join them over a period of days or weeks to pick grapes, chat, laugh, eat and drink. It is after-all what the previous year’s toil amongst the vines is all about. At Felton Road, they like to talk about harvest as a family experience. From owner Nigel Green-

ing’s family who are often present throughout harvest, to the family members of the Felton Road team, though to the colloquial family as they refer to all the familiar faces who return with remarkable regularity. Entering their 19th harvest the annual pilgrimage to Bannockburn normally includes visitors from all over the world, wine aficionados and backpackers alike, and also the one and only Alastair McLaren (known as Mr Mac) who is return-

Gaining first hand experience at Felton Road was 30-year-old American sommelier and wine writer Andrew Merrit.

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NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015

ing this year for his 14th harvest. “As soon as you get here you meet everyone who was here the year before, you meet people that have been here for seven to eight, even 10 years and they are family that you come back to see.” After spending his working life as a dairy farmer on the Taieri Plains, McLaren needed a hobby once he finished farming in 1998 and wine filled that void. “At that stage there were only about eight wineries in Central that I was familiar with and Felton Road stood out as being one of the top labels. I called up Gareth King the vineyard manager and it was only his first year, he had me picking grapes for the first time in 2001.” Since those formative days, the industry in Central Otago has certainly grown, with far more than the eight labels that McLaren was originally aware of. Spending two to three weeks every year since has probably given him a slightly unique perspective on the evolution of the region’s wine industry. “When I first started, the vines were quite young and so were the children, and both of them have grown every year that I have come back. I have watched Nigel and Gareth’s kids grow from small children to being able to help in the vineyard. One year we had Nigel and his family all in the vineyard picking, they were just like one of the crew and I don’t think that happens everywhere. That is a culture they have created. “Gareth also seems to be able to bring in industry people from

Europe. A lot of viticulturists and winemakers want to send their kids here, and they are really valuable as we get an insight into what is happening there and they are keen to see what we are up to.” As well as regular Kiwi visitors like McLaren, this year alone the Felton Road rows were being tended by Europeans, Indians, Australians, a Singaporean and a lone American, 30-year-old sommelier and wine writer Andrew Merrit. A native of the Northern Virginia wine region, Merrit has spent most of his formative years working in hospitality in California while developing his knowledge and palate for fine beverages. He is impressed by Felton Road’s wines and biodynamic philosophy; “many of the best wines being produced today reflect these principles.” Merrit decided that after travelling for three months around New Zealand working on his wine knowledge, writing a blog and taking photos, he would weigh anchor and pick some fruit. “As a sommelier, having the opportunity to taste the different effects of soil, hill placement, clone type, and a myriad of other factors on the flavour, sugar, acid, texture and tannin of the actual fruit was enlightening. The extra bonus of being able to ask Gareth endless questions about their process has increased my knowledge immensely. Plus the view is not too bad either.” While the daily grind of bending down for impossibly low

Vineyard manager Gareth King and Alistair McLaren, also known as Mr Mac, who celebrated his 14th harvest this year.

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grapes, cutting fingers and ducking under nets can detract from the romantic notion of harvest, the picking crew at Felton Road do have a few milestones each day to look forward to. “Everyone looks forward to the morning and afternoon “smoko” where we are rewarded with treats from Gareth’s wife Karen and plenty of hot drinks,” says Merrit. “But the best days are when lunch is provided. Prepared by Nigel, it never fails to impress and satisfy.” Just Merrit’s mention of smoko is enough for Alistair McLaren to break out with a big smile. Not only does he roast a special blend of coffee for Felton Road that is put out for the pickers at morning tea, he also held a rather unusual record for quite some time. “We all have our favourite morning tea treats, and for a while there was a contest for eating saveloys in bread that I held after eating 12. But Nick Paulin took that off me with 16.” On a more serious note, getting up close and personal with the grapes each year also gives McLaren a slight head start when playing wine options with friends. “It’s much easier when you are

drinking them blind and trying to pick the vintage knowing what it was like when you picked it. For instance I know that when I am drinking the 2005, it was a very small vintage with very small berries, quite concentrated. “I also know that they have changed their picking times a bit over the years, we tend to pick a bit earlier than we used to and I think because of that, the wine has got more finesse than it had in the earlier years, and the vines have got older.” What of the future, how long does McLaren think he can continue to turn up at the same place each year for three weeks? “Well, I actually don’t get a chance to miss harvest so that means I have to plan my whole year around coming here. I’ve gone from picking, to being on the bike and now on the sorting table. I’m not sure what happens after this…but I will be coming back here until I physically can’t do it I guess. I can still see myself here at 70, but it’s a real shame I am not going to be here in 30 years time, as the vines will be 40-50 years old then and will be fabulous.” ■ seeingredmedia@yahoo.com

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NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015 // 37

EVENT NEWS

YOUNG WINEMAKER OF THE YEAR TESSA NICHOLSON

oung winemakers throughout the country are preparing themselves for the first ever competition aimed specifically at them. For the past 10 years, young viticulturists have been given the chance to shine, through a national competition that has focused on skills within the vineyard. Now it’s the turn of winemakers. Spokesperson for the national competition, Sophie Matthews says there are three regional competitions planned for later this year – Hawke’s Bay, Central Otago and Marlborough. Each region has a stand-alone committee organising events and already competitors are indicating their eagerness to be involved. “We are really excited about this,” Matthews says. “It has been a long time coming and everyone in the industry agrees that there is a need for something like this competition to recognize

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young professionals wanting to make a go of their careers.” Pitting yourself against your peers is one of the best ways of growing, if the Young Viticulturist competition is anything to go by. All past contestants have been quick to acknowledge that taking part in such a competition only helps you improve your basic knowledge. In terms of the winemakers, Matthews says there is no limit on the number of contestants entering, although each region will be selecting a final six to take part in the day-long competition. And unlike other young winemaker competitions held throughout the world, there will be no section dedicated to wines produced by the entrants. “We are hoping instead to focus on marketing, theory and practical areas,” she says. “There will be components of theory, as well as practical skills, such as blending and a laboratory section. Basically

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015

it will be a real mix, covering what a winemaker is expected to do in their everyday work life. But there will also be fun aspects, such as wine options and something along the line of the Horti Sports that has become a feature of the Young Viticulturist.” Despite the title of Young Winemaker, Matthews is quick to point out the competition is not limited to those who are actually titled as a winemaker. “ We a r e a i m i n g t h i s competition at anyone who works within the winery that is interested in the winemaking aspect. That may be someone involved in marketing, and certainly anyone who is a cellar hand at this stage. There are only a few criteria that they must fit.” Those criteria are that they are 30 years or younger, have two years wine experience here in New Zealand and are a New Zealand resident. Although that condition will be waived for Australians who

are keen to enter. “We have had a lot of interest from Australia, and given how many Aussies are working here, we figure it is fair enough to include them in the competition. Especially if they have been here contributing to our industry.” The Regional competitions will take place during July, with the three winners then going on to compete for the national title, later in the year. And if a title isn’t enough to encourage potential competitors, them maybe the prizes will be. Each regional winner will receive $1000, with a large pool of prizes being organized for the New Zealand final. Full details on the competition are available from each of the regional bodies, Wine Marlborough, Hawke’s Bay Winegrowers Association and Central Otago Winegrowers Association. ■ tessa.nicholson@me.com

SOMMELIER’S CORNER CAMERON DOUGLAS MS

DECANTED

ine competitions their advantages and disadvantages, and even the relevance of entering, will usually ignite a good discussion amongst wine folk. These - at times heated – conversations will include which wines should be entered, who the judges are, the relevance to the winery, and what wine(s) typically take out the Gold medals and top awards. They are likely to also include debate on the merits of entering at all, whether there are too many wine competitions or not enough, who benefits from entering, and what varieties

or styles win medals and trophies. In New Zealand, for example, there are around six major wine competitions, with Chardonnay or Pinot Noir often securing the top prize - though this is sometimes not always the case. The more significant New Zealand competitions can attract between 1,200 to 1,800 entries. At an International level, well-regarded wine competitions generally attract a significantly larger number of entries. Any discussion on the merits of these competitions should include their popularity, generally held to be because of the

opportunities provided to get a wine ‘out there’, and increase market visibility. Recently I had the pleasure of chairing the panel of judges for the New Zealand wine entries into the Decanter World Wine Awards in London. The competition itself attracted sixteen thousand entries, requiring two hundred and forty judges - including 85 Masters of Wine and 23 Master Sommeliers, as well as wine writers and key wine influencers from 22 countries around the world. Interestingly very few of the judges were winemakers. This Award Show is a massive

competition by world standards and required a particularly skilled team in the back room, cataloguing, sorting, organising and delivering the wines to be judged. Judging took five days in total including regional trophies, and it was obvious from the level of professionalism that everyone involved in this event took their responsibilities very seriously. All results are due in August, with a report in the Decanter magazine at the same time. I look forward to seeing them – and to any feedback New Zealand entrants would like to provide regarding the benefits (or otherwise) from their entry. ■

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NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015 // 39

BUSINESS NEWS

ORGANIC GROWTH TESSA NICHOLSON

o me the word crawler conjures up images of something creepy, lurking in a dark corner waiting to pounce. But for Marlborough based Giesen Wines a newly imported Crawler is the latest tool in the company’s expansion into organic wines. It was six years ago that the Giesen brothers, Alex, Theo and Marcel decided to embark on the pathway to organics. They began with a 7.2 hectare vineyard that had been conventionally planted in wide rows, removing all vines and left the land fallow for two years before replanting. The new look totally organic vineyard was close planted with Pinot Noir and Syrah – (not a common variety found in Marlborough at the time). That first tentative step has paid off and the quality of the fruit and ensuing wines has encouraged one of Marlborough’s oldest wine companies to expand their organic holdings. Currently they have four organic vineyards, totalling 55 hectares. They are also taking

a substantial amount of organic fruit from contract growers to add to their portfolio and have a fifth vineyard in transition. Which brings us to the Crawler, produced by Geier. This all-purpose machine weighs just over a tonne, and replaces the former 2.5 tonne tractor the company used to perform a multitude of tasks in the vineyard. Tasks such as under vine weeding, crop spraying and trimming. Due to its lack of weight and its small size, (width of 1.1 metres) the Crawler has less downward pressure than a human footprint, ensuring substantially less compaction within the vineyard. It is also far easier to manoeuvre in the closely planted organic vineyards, according to organic vineyards manager Kurt Simsic. “The rows in these vineyards are only 1.5 metres wide and the bulkier tractors run right beside the grape vines which can damage the plant’s roots. The surface area of the Crawler’s tracks means a significantly better displacement of weight.”

The new lightweight Crawler – one of the tools in Giesen’s organic arsenal.

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NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015

The Giesen brothers – from left, Theo, Alex and Marcel.

Marcel Giesen says one of those closely planted vineyards is Clayvin. “In February, after the second year of a 10-year lease, we purchased the vineyard outright. The opportunity to add an exceptional organic vineyard site to the company’s portfolio was too good to pass up. The fact that Clayvin was Marlborough’s first commercial high density hillside vineyard producing some of the region’s finest Pinot Noirs, Chardonnay and Syrah, has allowed the company to extend its organic programme.” The rest of the company organic blocks are spread across the Wairau Valley, each with its own individual terroir, allowing Giesen’s to concentrate on single vineyard wines. “Organics and in time biodynamics helps these wines express where they have come from,” Giesen says. “We find the major advantage with organics is there is a natural reduction in yield, often there are smaller berries but higher quality, concentrated flavours, this is supported by increased biological activity in the soil. Typically herbicide would affect this activity”

Giesen admits the move was a decision made not for commercial purposes, but to ensure the future of the vineyards for generations to come. The market reaction therefore has been a welcome surprise. “We have been surprised by the level of interest in organic wine. There is an increasing group of consumers who are concerned with what they are putting into their bodies and how the environment is being cared for,” he says. “These consumers often have higher discretionary spend and are happy to part with a little more money to enjoy good quality organic wines. This was a requirement from the start – the wines needed to be of the highest quality.” That quality was recognised when Giesen’s 2013 Organic Sauvignon Blanc gained a Gold Medal at last year’s New Zealand Organic Wine Awards, while the Clayvin Vineyard continues to win plaudits including Trophy –Champion Chardonnay for the The Fuder Clayvin Chardonnay 2011 at the 2013 Marlborough Wine Show and Pure Gold at the 2013 Air New Zealand Wine Awards. ■ tessa.nicholson@me.com

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EVENT NEWS

ROMEO BRAGATO 2015 N

ow in its 21st year, the Romeo Bragato Conference continues to evolve. Bragato will always have strong research components, but the scope has been widened to include sessions and discussion from other activity areas including, Marketing, Sustainability and Advocacy. The two and a half day conference will once again feature the Bragato Wine Awards and dinner, as well as the finals of the National Young Viticulturist of the Year. Guest speakers throughout the event come from far and wide, including; Philip Poole, Chief Marketing Officer at Whittakers, Mike

Walton, Executive Director for Consumer and Business Intelligence at Nielsen in Australia, Melanie Brown, owner of UK business The New Zealand Cellar, and Prof Gerhard Pietersen from South Africa to name a few. Reputation will be the key theme throughout the conference and how it relates to different aspects of grape growing, wine making, and brand marketing, will be the focus. The findings of the six-year Virus Elimination Programme will be explored, there will be discussion around resource management, and insights into the science as well as market perceptions of lower alcohol and lower calorie wines stemming from the PGP: Lifestyle

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Wines Programme will be shared. Sessions on breaking through a crowded market with the aids of social media and online retail, as well as the importance of building and maintaining a reputation in China is likely to have many talking. Where to in terms of GIs and how they might be perceived by international markets is another hot topic to be discussed. Following on from the success of last year, a number of wine tastings will feature in the Conference programme, including flights of international ‘iconic’ wines, hosted by Bob

Campbell MW. This year’s motivational speaker entrepreneur and magician, Vinh Giang will conclude the conference. The Romeo Bragato Conference will take place at the Pettigrew Green Arena, Hawke’s Bay, from 26-28 August. For more information and to register online go to: www.bragato. co.nz ■

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EVENT NEWS

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inot Noir New Zealand 2017 is coming – and make no bones about it, it will be huge. This world class event will again be set in the heart of our nation’s capital, kicking off on 31st January 2017. It’s been described as “the best Pinot Noir event on the planet”, and that’s no mean feat. It attracts visionaries, thinkers, industry leaders and lovers of Pinot from all corners of the globe. It showcases the very best of New Zealand Pinot Noir. With an exciting new programme revealing the land, people and culture of New Zealand, attendees can expect to be educated, stimulated and connected to what makes our Pinot Noir unique. Pinot Noir NZ 2017 is now calling for winery registrations. Chairman Ben Glover, says there has been a really strong response to the expressions of interest in April, and urges wineries

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SCIENCE PROFILE

THE SCIENCE OF WINE – VICTORIA RAW TESSA NICHOLSON

n the world of science there are many paths that need to be travelled before a conclusion can be reached. And for Plant & Food Research Associate Victoria Raw, there have been many paths that have led her to her current career. English born, Raw has been an integral part of the Food & Plant Research team based in Marlborough for nine years. Her role is one none of her teachers, friends or family could ever have predicted. After all, why does a Londoner, who spent her early years at a French language primary school, with no background in farming, end up in Edinburgh undertaking an agriculture degree? More-so, how does someone undertaking such a degree end up working in the New Zealand wine industry 20 years later? Good questions, Raw says. “I came here via so many different countries.” Back to the beginning. Born in Central London, Raw headed to Edinburgh University to undertake an agricultural degree. With no background in this field, she to this day doesn’t really know why

44 //

she chose this course. “Who really knows what they want to do when they go to university?” she says. “I knew that the degree would give me a strong biological science background. As I had a grounding in three modern languages , I thought they could be an added bonus in an agricultural career.” In her third year, Raw undertook the ERASMUS Programme and went to Angers, France for a year. Prior to leaving Edinburgh, she rang to see what electives were available. “The person that I spoke to said I could do subjects such as oenology and viticulture. I was like, ‘What’s oenology?’ And just as I was about to head to the dictionary, he said it was winemaking. It was a case of either doing those electives, or something else that I didn’t think I would like. So I went for it.” She admits that her eyes were opened during the year, particularly the work she was doing in the university’s small vineyard. “I never realized at the time that it was going to become my career. I enjoyed what I was doing,

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015

and remember thinking this is really fun, but I will probably never get to do this again.” Little did she know. After Angers, it was back to Edinburgh to finish her fourth year. After graduating she worked for a small independent wine merchant in Edinburgh. Her employers put her through the first stages of the WSET course, which helped improve her wine knowledge and gave her the idea of a career in sales and marketing. When she discovered Dijon University had a wine marketing course, Raw began planning to head back to France. To fill in time before the Dijon course began, she decided to gain further work experience by working in Portugal for a port wine lodge in sales and marketing. “But by the end of three weeks I realised that this wasn’t for me.” After chatting with a winemaker, she convinced him she could be put to better use in the winery’s laboratory which led to a vintage in that role. It was a turning point in her life she admits and encouraged by some Australian winemakers she decided to take a closer look at the winemaking and viticulture degree at Adelaide University. “There was a lot of enthusiasm about the industry in Australia and the study opportunities. So I thought, right I’m not going to France, I am going to go and find out what’s happening in Australia and New Zealand.” So from London, to Edinburgh, to France, back to Edinburgh, to Oporto and now Adelaide where

she completed a graduate diploma in viticulture. That was it, she now knew being out among the vines was where she wanted to be. “I realized that as much as I enjoyed working in a (winery) lab, my chemistry background wasn’t at the level it should be for winemaking. My biological sciences and my agriculture background meant I was more suited to viticulture and that was where my interest was.” Raw admits that her career path once she had completed her graduate diploma wasn’t all that clear. She began looking at options, one of which was the New Zealand wine industry. Arriving in 2000, she worked for Corbans Wines where she was put to work straight away – out in the field, and later for Pernod Ricard. “At the beginning I did a bit of everything within the vineyards– pruning, harvesting, disease assessments, yield estimates and lab work during harvest time. We had a nursery at the time, so I was involved with that and spent the winter planting out the Pernod Ricard Waipara vineyard. It was very hands on, which is exactly what I wanted. I then moved to doing more R and D work as the viticultural technician.” During this period Raw worked closely with the Hort Research (now Plant & Food) scientists who were using the company vineyards for trial work. In 2006 she moved to work as a Research Associate at HortResearch.

“I think it was the 100 percent science that attracted me. I did a lot of viticulture technical work under the Pernod flag, which I really enjoyed . But being with other people doing similar work, I thought that I would learn even more. I was right. In this environment this is all we do; we work collaboratively with other Plant & Food colleagues as well as with scientists at Auckland and Lincoln universities.” As a Research Associate, Raw says she has the “privilege” of working on a number of different projects. They range from being a part of the large PGP Lifestyle Wine Programme, through to collating information for VineFacts, a subscription-based viticulture email service that is sent out once a week from early October until the end of April every year. While initially this service focused on Marlborough only, this past sea-

son has seen it become a much larger service, providing information for most wine regions in New Zealand. “Each year is so different, that for me is really nice but there are some things that carry through on a regular basis. They are my stability and where I see myself growing in the future.” With a life that has travelled many paths, through many countries and many different career choices, Raw says it is hard to believe she has finally found her niche. “I never ever thought that this is where I would end up. But, while (long term) plans are great, surprises are even better.” Victoria Raw and Rob Agnew will be presenting a workshop on VineFacts at the Romeo Bragato conference in Hawke’s Bay later this year. ■ tessa.nicholson@me.com

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BOARD PROFILE

MEET YOUR BOARD RICHARD ROSE MARLBOROUGH GROWER

What Is Your Background In The Wine Industry? Our family first planted grapes in 1980. I studied viticulture at Lincoln University then worked for an Agchem company which supplied many products into our sector. I have been managing and developing the family vineyard operation for the past 12 years. When Did You First Become A NZW Board Member? 2007 What Inspired You To Stand? Having spent time on the Wine Marlborough board, I wanted the challenge of representing the industry at a national level and contributing to a successful vibrant industry. What Committees Are You Involved With And

Why Those? I am a research committee member. I have a scientific background and believe we need to firstly protect our industry through a solid research programme and secondly to continue to innovate through targeted research to maintain a competitive advantage. What Do You Believe Is The Greatest Hurdle Moving Forward For NZ Wine? Maintaining a premium price position in our export markets. This means the production of quality wines to ensure industry wide profitability. What Issue Do You Believe Needs A Higher Priority Than It Is Currently Receiving – And Why? Biosecurity. The success of our industry relies on exports, any barriers to trade from a bio security incursion would be detrimental. Our vineyards are our production base and most valuable asset. They need protecting. What Would You Say Is The Greatest Achievement NZ Wine Has Accomplished And Why? Reaching the size of our industry in such a short space of time by producing world class wines. The passion, dedication, innovation, enthusiasm and commitment of a cohesive industry has got us where we are today. What Is Your Personal Vision For The Future Of NZ Wine? How Do We Get There? Ensuring that our generation leaves the industry in the best shape possible for the next generation to prosper. We have developed an incredible

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industry in a short time frame. We need to look after our vineyards in a sustainable manner, and focus on producing a quality product that the world demands and enjoys. ■

PETER HOLLY – MISSION ESTATE WINERY CATEGORY TWO WINERY REPRESENTATIVE

What Is Your Background In The Wine Industry? I emigrated from South Africa 18 years ago and have been involved in the New Zealand wine industry ever since. During this time, I have been actively involved with both international and domestic market development. This development has necessitated the divestment, acquisition and development of vineyards on the Gimblett Gravels and more recently a vineyard acquisition in the Awatere Valley. When Did You First Become A NZWG Board Member? I was elected as a non-voting member in

September 2009 and then in October 2013 I was elected as a Category 2 voting member and have now been involved as a board member for five years. What Inspired You To Stand? The New Zealand wine industry is operating in one of the most competitive global markets. In this regard, it is essential that NZWG ensures a proactive approach to sustainability and research. We need to ensure the on-going vitality of our vineyards and product quality. Quality products supported by crystal clear communications are critical in sustaining our competitive growth position. Advocacy and government relationships are essential in protecting our reputation and market access. In short I believe NZWG are doing excellent work but, there is considerably more work to be done. I was very much attracted to this proposition and the opportunity to assist. What Committees Are You Involved With And Why Those? Over the years, I have enjoyed an active involvement in both the sustainability and marketing committees. More recently, I have been appointed to the Chair of the Finance Committee. This role is particularly important and will

INDUSTRY NEWS PROFILES

assume an even greater significance should the proposed organisational changes be accepted. I very much enjoy the interaction with the NZWG executive and providing support to the board and its activities What Do You Believe Is The Greatest Hurdle Moving Forward For NZ Wine? The New Zealand wine story is vast, diverse and intriguing but also very frustrating! The difficulties associated with capturing the essence of our story and its effective communication can never be understated. Our efforts need to be focussed on competitive profiling, product differentiation and on-going communication. Easier said than done. What Issue Do You Believe Needs A Higher Priority That It Is Currently Receiving And Why? NZWG have carefully allocated resources to both protect and grow priorities as identified in the strategic plan. Personally, I would like to see the integration of both WINZ and NZGGC into a single body with a unified levy order. This will simplify our administrative requirements and provide a far more flexible, outwardly focussed organisation that is better placed to achieve our

LATEST RESEARCH REGIONAL UPDATES

strategic imperatives. What Would You Say Is The Greatest Achievement NZ Wine Has Accomplished And Why? NZWG have a lot to be proud about. Despite shallow capital markets, capacity constraints, adverse exchange rates, poorly defined market structures, the industry has managed to grow at stellar rates over the last 30 years. The challenges that have been embraced to become a significant contributor to the New Zealand economy are inspirational. What Is Your Personal Vision For The Future Of NZ Wine? How Do We Get There? My vision for NZWG is built around a dynamic and flexible organisation that is very clear in its objectives and represents the interests of the industry both nationally and internationally. To achieve this we will need robust research programs, clear marketing strategies and continued investment around our sustainability initiatives. We also need to maximise all our opportunities and work with government agencies to ensure effective market entry and development. Above all we must guard our hard earned reputation for quality products. ■

MARKETING UPDATES ARCHIVES

www.nzwinegrower.co.nz NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015 // 47

VITICULTURE PROFILE

GIVING IT A NUDGE MARK ORTON

our years ago, Nick Paulin won The National Young Viticulturist title on his second attempt. After competing in the regional finals five times, and winning twice, Paulin is the still the only national winner to emerge from Central Otago. Having developed an interest in horticulture while still at secondary school in Invercargill, Paulinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s curiosity for grapes was stirred at a Lincoln University open day. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I guess I wanted to do something outdoors, so I thought that Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d give it a nudge,â&#x20AC;? says

Paulin. â&#x20AC;&#x153;At that time viticulture was booming and someone had told me that it was more of a lifestyle choice than a job, so that sounded like a good gig.â&#x20AC;? While studying at Lincoln, Paulin spent his summers working firstly at Peregrine and then at Felton Road, which is where he found a permanent role once he had graduated. â&#x20AC;&#x153;That was at the end of 2004 and I kind of just walked into a job there. It had already dawned on me, that seeing a full season through at one vineyard would be really valuable, but coming out of Lincoln where you get force fed

conventional viticulture, going to a bio-dynamic vineyard was a real eye opener. I realised that you actually can do things another way. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I have never put a herbicide on a vineyard, and to be honest I never want to. There are enough tools out there that you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to use herbicides. What Bio-Dynamics taught me was to look and think about the whole system, look at the bigger picture rather than obsess over individual problems.â&#x20AC;? His learning curve continued to grow, especially when he was part of the inaugural Burgundy exchange in 2006.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Wow, it was a completely different set-up to here. They just do what they do because that is what is done, whereas at Lincoln there had been quite a lot of technical focus and asking questions. Where they just did things because â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;that was what granddad didâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, and they know it works, we tend to think that there is a better way out there, but sometimes itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just better not to tinker.â&#x20AC;? In 2010, Paulin left Felton Road and took up his present position as the viticulturist at Peregrine. In the time that Paulin has been looking after the viticulture

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at Peregrine, he has not made any knee jerk decisions based on his own preference for biodynamic viticulture. Rather, in keeping with his laid back personality, Paulin’s influence has been to implement subtle changes with a big picture focus. “I’ve learnt that you can’t just rely on biodynamics, you have to bring some science in and some other processes that biodynamics will get you to eventually. However sometimes you don’t have that time and just need to get things going now. One of the biggest things from Biodynamics is the focus on soil health, recognising that what happens underground is really important.” “Coming up for five years I feel like I am understanding what is happening here now. I almost feel like we are getting to the point of simplicity that I first thought of about viticulture. You know, its

kind of come full circle coming from Felton Road where things were relatively straightforward as they have done it for so long, to coming here and going Holy S**t this is actually a bit more work, to where I can now see progress and feel like we are on top of this. “Yes we do work some long hours, especially at the moment, but when the things that you enjoy are so handy, it’s still possible to fit them in.” ■ seeingredmedia@yahoo.com • This year marks the 10th anniversary of the Young Viticulturist of the Year competition, and promises to be the biggest ever. Bayer New Zealand have come on board as a major sponsor, providing $25,000 towards the competition. Regional competitions will be held throughout the country in July and the national finals will take place during the Romeo Bragato Conference in Hawke’s Bay in August.

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MARKETING NEWS

WINE CLUBS INCREASE “TRAFFIC” TESSA NICHOLSON

ine Clubs may be the way to increase “foot traffic” in terms of wine sales, according to wine marketer, and author Bruce McGechan. An expert on selling wine on the internet and author of the books Wine Marketing Online (2013) and How to Sell Wine Online (2011), McGechan says wineries can increase sales traction and consumer loyalty via the instigation of a wine club. What’s more it is a more effective way of increasing margins, than a simple on-line store. “I am seeing how eCommerce as a percentage of sales is not growing as fast as wine clubs,” he says. It is also difficult to gain “foot traffic’ on a web site, given the plethora of wineries your own company is competing against. Many consumers who purchase wine on-line will do so via a generic company selling a wide variety of brands. Which means it is extremely hard to provide your own story to the end consumer. Overseas these factors have led to a direct increase in wine clubs, which

50 //

McGechan says have grown exponentially in Australia for example in the past six years. “In Australian in 2009, 20 percent of wineries had a wine club. Now we estimate that around 60 percent have some sort of one.”

So What Is A Wine Club? McGechan says there are various structures and not all are successful. For example some wine companies have a club that consists of an email being sent out on a regular basis, with special offers or details on wine to purchase.

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015

“But that is not really a wine club.” The next one is a discount club, where consumers are encouraged to join the website and by doing so will gain discounts. “This is often prompted by email marketing and the consumer logs into the website and once logged in they become a member getting a discount. They might purchase one wine or 12 wines once or twice a year. But it’s not really a wine club.” McGechan says you then come to the scenario where a request is made for credit card details – this is the distinguishing factor. “When you have the credit card details (to be stored securely in a payment processor) and people have said we will buy

wine regularly from you – that is a wine club. Those two things are the key elements of a wine club; a commitment to get regular wine and the handing over of credit card details.” Another term for a wine club could be continuity club – given once you have members signed up, you also have consumers receiving and paying for regular amounts of wine, on a continual basis. “You send out certain wines on certain dates of your choosing.” Which McGechan says is far more cost effective than sending out one or two bottles ordered on-line via your website, ad hoc. “Why have a wine club? Higher margins,” he says. “When it comes down to it, that is the key one. We are trying to boost our profit through having higher margin sales.”

Wine Club Structures Firstly the wine company needs to establish how often it wants to be sending out wine club member’s product. Are you able to provide a monthly service? Or is it best to stick to two monthly, quarterly or every six months? Then you have to offer club members a choice of products. Are they interested in receiving white wines, red wines or a mixture of both? What number of bot-

Technology for efficient irrigation management Amiad screen filtration systems tles do they want to receive? Two, four, six, eight or a dozen? What price range are they interested in? Are they keen to receive “special” wines that are under allocation? How often do they want to receive their wine? These are all structures that need to be confirmed prior to sending the first delivery. While many may think offering discounts would be mandatory, McGechan says it isn’t necessary. Instead he believes in offering club member’s special benefits. They get the opportunity to access new releases, single vineyard wines, small parcel wines, plus the chance of one-on-one tours when visiting the cellar door, or attending member only events such as tastings.

How To Sell Wine Club Membership The number one place to promote a wine club is via the cellar door. But staff need to be trained to “respectfully and naturally sell” this to visitors. McGechan says the rough estimate is that two percent of visitors to the cellar door will sign up to a wine club, but given the ongoing sales this is a very positive outcome.

“In America, the average spend by wine club members is $480. In New Zealand you could expect that to be around the $300 mark on an annual basis.” The second way to sell the clubs is via events – such as wine festivals. Follow this up with email marketing, or direct mail and phone sales. Regardless of which way you sell it, you have to ensure that you are offering the consumer benefits – “these need to be well sold. Make sure the wine club is well advertised, especially in the cellar door. And make sure there is an opportunity to sign up on the spot. “The aim basically is to sell clubs, rather than just individual bottles.” Which makes sense given how many tourists visiting cellar doors do not have the ability to travel with their wine. By signing up to a club, they can ensure they have a nice “surprise” package arriving on a regular basis. You as a company gain a new loyal consumer, a regular form of income and a chance to promote your brand to a wide spectrum of individual consumers. ■ tessa.nicholson@me.com

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NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015 // 51

REGIONS HAWKE’S BAY

THE BAY’S BEST KEPT SECRET MARY SHANAHAN

lthough Hawke’s Bay’s site. Crownthorpe district is Delegat’s was at the forefront a significant producer of of Crownthorpe’s development as cool climate grapes, as a winegrowing sub region, plantMonowai Estate’s owner-opera- ing Hawke’s Bay’s largest single tors point out, it largely goes under vineyard, some 350 hectares, in the radar. “Matapiro and Crownthorpe is probably the second biggest winegrowing area in Hawke’s Bay,” says winemaker Emma Lowe, “but we’ve joked about it being its best kept secret.” Crownthorpe’s high altitude terraces and flats have been targeted by some of New Zealand’s biggest winegrowing interests, and are set to become much more recognised with the recent purchase by Delegat’s Wine Group (see page 16). Emma’s parents, Lynette and Norman Lowe, were among the first to recognise the area’s grape growing potential. The couple, who farmed in the Waikato and then at Kereru, south of the Ngaruroro River, are now Emma Lowe and Marcelo Nunez of retired in Napier. But, Monowai Estate. keen to lure their globetrotting daughter back to New Merlot and Chardonnay in 2001. Zealand’s shores, they suggested a The Lowes followed a year later, wine business as a family venture. and since then Pernod Ricard, The Lowe seniors funded the Constellation Brands and Sileni enterprise and assist as needed on Estates have all established vinethe 28ha property, while Emma yards in the area. and her husband, viticulturist Several winegrowing interests Marcelo Nunez, live and work on are looking to secure further land.

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NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015

As Monowai’s marketing manager Dave France observes, “the big corporates have recognised it out here.” Emma says it starts with the soil – free-draining silt loams over

river gravels. “It’s got proximity to the river so we’ve got irrigation and then the climate for the aromatic varietals and those early ripening varieties.” As harvest was nearing, the temperature at this altitude dropped 10-12 degrees at night,

lengthening the ripening period and encouraging flavour development. And Dave points out that summer’s daytime temperatures here are higher than for other parts of Hawke’s Bay with Crownthorpe beyond the cooling reach of the sea breeze. Initially, Emma felt Monowai’s riverside location provided enough slope to avoid frosts. That didn’t prove to be the case, however, with one corner of the vineyard, sloping back a little, suffering some damage in the early years. Since installing two wind machines there have been no further problems. A qualified winemaker with 10 years’ experience in wine regions around the world, Emma makes single varietal wines from Monowai’s Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Merlot in the on-site winery she designed to take advantage of the slope of the land. Her parents moved to farm in Hawke’s Bay in her final year at high school. Interested in pursuing her interest in science, she was drawn to a future in the wine industry she saw thriving in the region. “I didn’t want to have a job where I was stuck in an office all day and so I thought this was a good job,” she says of winemaking.

“It’s got a lot of things going on”. Enrolling at Adelaide University, she graduated in 1996 with a Bachelor of Agriculture majoring in oenology. A year as an exchange student at the University of California, Davis was to trigger “a rather big OE” , with Emma working vintages in Australia, Switzerland, South Africa, the Rhone and Loire valleys and Chile, which is where she met Marcelo. It was while she was making wine for Vinho San Pedro in Chile that her mother rang to ask if she was up for a new adventure. “So that was when we came home,” Emma laughs. Marcelo, who “gathered” viticultural knowledge after studying horticulture, arrived in New Zealand on a fiancé’s visa by which time the land for the winegrowing venture had been purchased and cleared. Emma says her parents “pretty

much” left the decision-making about varieties to them both. “So we were basically looking for earlyripening varieties knowing that this has got a bit of altitude here, it’s cooler.” Apart from bottling, everything associated with the wine production is done on site. Trying handpicking for several seasons, they found labour was unreliable and now use a contractor to harvest the grapes. “The quality of grapes that comes out of harvesters is just amazing,” says Emma. “I can remember when I first saw machine-harvested fruit and you’d have half a vine, the stuff that wasn’t grapes, there was a lot of it. But now they pick really cleanly. We don’t see any big benefit in hand harvesting.” Last year, the winery processed 230 tonnes from the 22 hectares of vineyard. Taking advantage of

gravity, the fruit is unloaded at the topmost level of the stepped building. The barrel hall is carved into the bank, below the administrative area, helping maintain a steady temperature for the aging wine. Running the winery singlehanded for the first seven years, Emma says she put a lot of thought into making it labour efficient. “I basically did the design and modified it a bit after seeing what works and what doesn’t work.” Satisfied with the quality of her wines, Emma sees marketing as the company’s biggest challenge. It’s the reason Dave has joined the team. Historically, he says, Monowai has been more focused on developing export markets in the USA, Canada, the UK, Europe, southeast and northern Asia and Australia. The aim is strengthen its marketing channels while also

boosting the company’s domestic presence. Emma agrees the latter is no easy task, given the lack of passing traffic and Crownthorpe’s low profile as a wine-producing area. However, she points out, Delegat’s has a label that identifies the Crownthorpe Terraces as the wine’s place of origin. Dave says the domestic push will see greater focus on Emma as the winemaker. Raising a young family and enjoying strong ties with their community, she and Marcelo feel happily settled in this comparatively out-of-the-way corner of Hawke’s Bay. And as more wine producers pick up on what the sub-region has to offer, it seems Monowai Estate and Crownthorpe are destined to become more firmly stamped on the region’s wine map. ■ maryshanahan173@gmail.com

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NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015 // 53

BOB’S BLOG BOB CAMPBELL MW

YOU ONLY HAVE A DRINKING PROBLEM IF YOU DRINK MORE THAN YOUR DOCTOR I mentioned in the last issue that I’d strained my Achilles tendon at the gym. I continued to work-out under the supervision of an ACC-funded physio. Despite her tender ministrations the tendon finally snapped on Friday 13th March. The injury caused severe disruption to my life. I’m not allowed to fly further than Blenheim for three months. I had to cancel trips to China, Thailand, UK, Melbourne and Queenstown. I went to North Shore Hospital for a check-up and was told they would have to X-Ray my knee before I saw their orthopaedic surgeon. “There’s nothing wrong with my knee”, I said weakly, “it’s my ankle”. Thought the crutches and fibreglass cast might have given them a clue. An hour later they’d sorted it out and I saw the doctor. When he’d finished his very brief examination he snapped his book shut and said, “What’s the best wine for me. I don’t want to pay too much for it”. This has happened before so I gave him my prepared response. “Choose any Villa Maria Cellar Selection or Private Bin wine on special and you can’t go wrong”. He wrote that down, shook my hand warmly and ushered me out.

THE GOOD, THE BAD AND THE UGLY I see a lot of wine labels. They fall into three categories: Labels that, at a glance, give a strong clue about the character of the wine in the bottle as well as price category Labels that simply offer information for those who understand wine jargon and are prepared to invest a little time Shockers. Labels that are artistically offensive or give a false impression about the wine, price, region or variety. Labels should pass the flash test. When you have a label in the design stage, flash it for a few seconds to a number of people and record their impressions of price, style, region and quality. What you think about a label is less important than what potential buyers think. Rod McDonalds One Off Rosé is a great example of a label that has impact, offers a favourable first impression and even provides a visual clue about its flavours. It’s also different and stands out on a crowded shelf. I like the punchy back-label copy which doesn’t take itself too seriously. Well done Rod!

BABICH HIT 100 Congratulations to Babich for making the big 100. That’s quite an achievement. They’re a member of a very small club. How many of today’s 700 or so wineries will hit a century? I visited Joe Babich (managing director), David Babich (general manager) and John Lang (sales and marketing manager) at their winery and 30-hectare Henderson Valley vineyard which Joe believes is the country’s most expensive vineyard. They listed the best decisions they’d made in the last 100 years as: The move from fortified to

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table wine Sourcing grapes outside Henderson – they were the first to buy grapes from Gisborne in 1977 Investing in the international market. Joe recalls their very first container of export wine leaving the winery in 1981 and his father saying that it was the highlight of his life. Decreased dependence on grape growers –80% of their grapes now come form their own vineyards. Investing in Marlborough vineyards. They now represent 85% of their total vineyard ownership.

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015

Left to right, John Lang sales & Marketing manager; David Babich general manager; and Joe Babich managing director.

Developing long term brands Their worst decisions were: They should have bought more vineyard land In the 50s they made an orange-flavoured vodka called “Gloom Chaser”. It wasn’t a

great success. They also produced a wine called “Ocean Blue” that proved costly. “We learned that there are some areas best left to the big companies”, said Joe with a smile.

REGIONAL WINE GLASS One of my more prized possessions is a Roman glass from around 100 AD. It’s a simple tumbler that I would imagine had to accommodate a wide range of wines, beers and possibly spirits. The silver tastevin emerged in Medieval times and was used to taste the content of bowls in order to convince guests that the wine was not poisoned. Stemmed glassware appeared in the late 17th century. Wine glasses in the 19th century were often produced in sets with a different glass for port, sherry, Burgundy, Claret, Champagne and liqueurs. Riedel took it a step further by developing glasses for specific grape varieties. I was a varietal glass-sceptic until I attended a tasting which compared a number of different varietal wines in appropriate Riedel glasses compared to the same wines in the ISO XL5 tasting glass commonly used in wine shows at that time. I estimated the wines in the Riedel glasses tasted at least 25% better than in XL5 glasses. I was hooked and immediately invested more than I could afford in Riedel glassware. Which brings me to Riedel’s very latest

glass – designed specifically for Central Otago Pinot Noir. Two years ago I was involved in the developmental stage when I joined a room full of wine tasters to compare the same Central Otago Pinot Noir in a number of different Riedel glasses including several designed specifically for

Pinot Noir. The clear winner was Riedel’s Oregon Pinot Noir glass. I was so impressed I bought a dozen. The Central Otago Pinot Noir glass is due to be released in June. I was lucky enough to test it against the Riedel’s Oregon Pinot Noir glass and the Riedel Vinum Burgundy glass. The Central Otago Pinot Noir glass was the winner, though not by a large margin.

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EDUCATION NEWS

LURING OVERSEAS GRADUATES MARY SHANAHAN

ew Zealand is gaining a reputation as a leading educator with overseas graduates seeking further study opportunities as a springboard into employment in the wine industry. Offering an on-campus option for its graduate diplomas in oenology and viticulture for the first time this year, EIT enrolled some 18 postgraduates in the inaugural one-year winemaking programme, and two-thirds are from overseas. The international students are from countries that include China, India, the USA, Japan and the Philippines. One, who has lived in the UK for the last 20 years, hails from the Rhone Valley in France. Graduate diplomas are soughtafter qualifications in the wine industry, particularly for those who want to continue working while studying part-time and by distance. However, programme coordinator Dr Carolyn Russell points out that demand for on-campus study has also been building in recent years, especially among would-be students from overseas. EIT, she says, made major changes to the programmes so it could add the more time-intensive study option. The graduate diploma requires 10 days’ work experience – a deepend stint for those who haven’t previously worked in a winery or on a vineyard. For the oenology students, that has meant working the vintage.

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Darlene Tolentino aims to settle in New Zealand.

“It tends to be less intense for the viticulture students as they are able to stage their work experience throughout the academic year,” Russell says. “The local industry has been really good at taking students on for voluntary work.” Oenology student Darlene Tolentino was surprised by the physical demands of working vintage and two weeks after the experience she was still sporting blackened fingernails and bruising from plunging the cap. “The work is challenging,” the Filipino says of her time at Sileni Estates, “but every day you are learning something that you wouldn’t normally cover in the classroom.” After graduating from the University of the Philippines with a Bachelor of Science (Agriculture)

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015

Laurent Busy on work experience at Vidal Estate.

majoring in horticulture, Tolentino was passed over for jobs that went to applicants with experience. Her brother, working for AgResearch in Dunedin, suggested she look at opportunities in this country. She applied for a work visa but horticulture wasn’t included in Immigration New Zealand’s skilled shortage list and she found herself working in a confectionery factory in Oamaru. “It was frustrating,” she agrees, “having heard that there were many opportunities in New Zealand horticulture. I decided to start again, studying and practising in a related field of expertise.” Formerly from Avignon, Laurent Busy completed a degree in English, Spanish and international business management before

going on to work in financial services in the UK. Turning 40, he reviewed his future and concluded that his line of work had become “a bit boring”. He resolved to move abroad for winemaking studies rather than regret what might have been. “I needed a change of air and was looking at my options for the next 25 years,” he says. “The new world is shaking the cobwebs of how to do things in the wine world.” Travelling in New Zealand three years ago, Busy made a pilgrimage to Craggy Range to visit the producer of Syrah Block 14 2006, a “classic beautiful Rhonestyle wine” with extraordinary aromas “just jumping and dancing in the glass”. His choice of a country in

which to study went to this favourable impression and other connections forged with New Zealand. Looking ahead to future employment opportunities and lacking a science background, Busy completed a bridging course in chemistry before progressing to the graduate diploma class. Studying in Hawke’s Bay has broadened his appreciation of the region’s winemaking potential. “It’s a wine area which I like and believe in. It’s not just one grape and it’s not just one place – I love that it’s diverse. The different winemaking styles and techniques are here and you can try more than one thing.” From Hamachal Pradesh province in northern India, Shivani Ghai gained her Master in Biotechnology degree from Punjab University but still found it hard to secure a job in a related field. Her parents supported her

dream to explore opportunities overseas and she and her father brainstormed ideas and researched educational programmes offered by educators world-wide. Although India has little by way of a wine culture, the pair felt winemaking offered Ghai scope for future employment. They chose New Zealand for her study because of its small population, lack of corruption and the safe environment it provided for the 24-year-old. “The decision was very right,” Ghai says. “I started the programme two weeks late because of a hold-up with my visa, but I found everyone very good in helping me catch up.” Although working vintage at Trinity Hill was “really hard work”, she enjoyed every aspect of the experience and says the winery staff were “brilliant”. Like her two classmates, Ghai

Shivani Ghai – hoping to make wine in her homeland.

plans to gain as much experience as possible in New Zealand once she has graduated. In the meantime, she has suggested her father explore the possibility of

establishing a family wine venture in Himachal Pradesh where, she says, the climate is like New Zealand’s. ■ maryshanahan173@gmail.com

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NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015 // 57

REGIONS WAIPARA

THE NEW BLACK ESTATE TESSA NICHOLSON

aipara is one of New Zealand’s fastest growing wine regions – and Black Estate is at the forefront of that growth. Owned since 2007 by Nicholas Brown and Pen Naish in partnership with Pen’s parents Rob and Stacey, Black Estate has been undergoing a transformation, in terms of varietals and vineyards. Nicholas is well known in the region, having been winemaking alongside Danny Schuster since 2004. He and Pen along with Rod and Stacey purchased Black Estate from original owner Russell Black seven and a half years ago. While they have kept the Estate name, there have been a number of changes to the look of the vineyard and the wines being produced.

“This is a 16 hectare property, and eight of those were planted when we bought it,” Nicholas explains. “It had always been run conventionally, but we spent the first few years converting it to organic and biodynamic practices, so there was a lot of work taking place in the vineyard.” The aim he says was to increase the health of the vineyard in an effort to gain more expression from the site. On top of that, the family began preparing nearly four more hectares ready for planting. “We planted a hectare of Chardonnay with four different clones. Two hectares of Pinot Noir with six different clones. A third of a hectare of Cabernet Franc and half a hectare of Chenin Blanc.” The new plantings were the

mirror opposite of the original vineyard, which was planted conventionally. “In the top block we have high density, so we get maximum expression from those grapes,” Nicholas says. “We get a low per plant yield, but a high vine per hectare, so we get a good tonnage.” While Waipara is renowned for Riesling, Black Estate originally wasn’t producing that varietal. In 2008 the family began buying fruit from the Damsteep Vineyard, one of the few hillside sites growing this variety. The dense limestone derived clay provides something special to the fruit Nicholas says. “We love that Riesling. There is a point of difference because it is a hill site vineyard with dense clay. It produces a very textural wine

which is why we make it in a dry style to accentuate that texture.” By 2008 Black Estate were purchasing all the Damsteep Riesling, by 2010 they began buying some of the Pinot Noir and by 2012 they took over the lease of the property and converted it to biodynamic. These days they own the vineyard. They also bought the Netherwood Vineyard late last year after a three year lease. Planted in 1986 by Danny Schuster and Russell Black, the mudstone and sandstone soils provide a third element to the growing library of Black Estate Wines. Nicholas says the new owners had no concrete plans for the property, one of Waipara’s oldest hillside Pinot Noir blocks, so Black Estate took the opportunity to manage it, prior to buying outright.

The stunning view over the vineyard taken from the Black Estate restaurant.

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NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015

It is this particular vineyard that has also provided the impetus for one of New Zealand’s most original wines – a Chardonnay/Pinot Noir Rosé. Nicholas says there was point eight of a hectare of Chardonnay planted back in 1986, with the rest of the vineyard Pinot Noir. Ten years later Schuster decided to top graft the vines to Pinot. “But because it was an un-irrigated vineyard, “Nicholas says, “it was very difficult to top graft successfully. Only about 50 percent of them took. So then they were left with one vine being Chardonnay and the next one being Pinot Noir. But this was always a bit of a nightmare at harvest with pickers having to separate the two varietals into different bins. “From 2012 when we took over the lease, we told the pickers to just pick it all into the same bucket. We were quite interested in co-fermentation of different varieties

and also carbonic maceration. We brought all the fruit into the winey and put it into the fermenter and did 100 percent whole cluster of Chardonnay and Pinot to make that wine.” These days Black Estate is producing a wide range of single vineyard wines, mainly Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. But with the new plantings of Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc, the wine list is growing. It’s a far cry from when they first took over the Estate, just one year before the global financial crisis and New Zealand’s grape over supply. “It was a freaky year,” Pen admits. “We had the over supply and then the global economy crashed as well, it was like Ouch! “I remember Dad and I saying to each other, ‘this could get interesting, but we decided that we just had to get on with it. And then the earthquake hit Christchurch.”

Nicholas Brown and Pen Naish. PHOTO DANIEL HONAN FROM WINE IDEALIST.

They weren’t alone in taking over a new venture during a crisis. Nicholas says since 2007 there have been a large number of younger people who have moved into the region. “Since then there has been a change of ownership with a lot of properties and new producers coming in that have a full wine focus. So there has been a big change in the winery

makeup here.” And despite the tough years preceding, Black Estate, like Waipara has continued to grow year on year. These days they have markets in Japan, Sweden and Australia and with the new plantings coming on stream they will be able to concentrate on expanding those markets while looking for new ones. ■ tessa.nicholson@me.com

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REGIONS CENTRAL OTAGO

IN A GLASS OF ITS OWN JOELLE THOMSON

wo years may seem like a long time between drinks, but it is a blip on the Riedel radar; the 300 year old Austrian glass company launched its first New Zealand-dedicated wine glass this year - for Central Otago Pinot Noir. The journey began during a tasting with Central Otago local winemakers and Georg Riedel back in September 2013. At the Auckland launch in March of the new Central Otago Pinot Noir glass, Georg Riedel said

he wanted to show how much the bowl shape and circumference size of different glassware can change the perception of taste that they communicate. He demonstrated this during a tasting that he described as a sensory journey. This featured the Central Otago Pinot Noir glass, a Shiraz glass and a Cabernet Sauvignon glass. Each glass was used to showcase three different wine styles; a Pinot Noir, a Syrah and a Cabernet Sauvignon-based red. “This is not about what the

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NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015

wines are, but what they are made from; a thin skinned, medium skinned and thick skinned red grape variety. These different types of grapes make wines with different types of tannins, body and flavour, and this is what we can alter the perception of,” says Riedel. The identities of the wines remained a mystery throughout the journey. Their flavours from each different glass was what Riedel wanted to highlight; the relatively large size of the Central

Otago Pinot glass accentuated the moderate smooth tannins of Pinot Noir whereas it accentuated the bitterness of red wines made from thicker skinned grape varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. The new glass will be available to purchase from June. ■ joellethomson@vodafone.co.nz

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WINE NEWS

CREATING A STORM WITH RIESLING JOELLE THOMSON

enjamin Franklin once said that if you want something done, ask a busy person. It seems to be a fitting description of Ben Glover; winemaker for Zephyr Wines, his family owned company in Marlborough, group winemaker for Accolade Wines and chairman of Pinot Noir 2017. Fresh back from three days as a delegate at Riesling Downunder in Melbourne this year, Glover was part of a small contingent of fellow Kiwi wine producers from Marlborough and North Canterbury. The event cemented not only the versatility of Riesling in Glover’s mind, but also New Zealand’s natural strengths with this German grape variety. The wide range of wines in the tastings at Riesling Downunder highlighted the entire spectrum of Riesling. “The outstanding international Rieslings that we tasted showed how well New Zealand’s cool climate works for this naturally high acid grape variety,” he says. The conference focused on a combination of themes from unctuously sweet trockenbeerenausleses (TBAs) to dry wines, showing a vast number of examples of how the Germans and Austrians work to accentuate full-bodied Rieslings by using a lot of skin contact in their winemaking. “That’s something that in Marlborough we don’t tend to do. There is more of that style going

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on in Waipara where there is a longer hang time and you can get more golden fruit flavour characteristics without alcohol accumulation occurring at the same rate that it tends to in Marlborough,” says Glover. The response to climatic differences between Marlborough and North Canterbury is to create different styles of wines, which accounts for styles that Glover describes as: “Well structured and

the other end, with a wide range of high quality styles in between.”

How does he view New Zealand Riesling at the moment? “Under drunk. “It definitely is an under drunk variety and with the likes of Andrew Hedley at Framingham and the Flowerdays at Te Whare Ra doing so much to promote Riesling, I certainly can’t take

“The outstanding international Rieslings that we tasted showed how well New Zealand’s cool climate works for this naturally high acid grape variety.” off dry, made from grapes without the long hang time because that would usually result in very high alcohol wines without balance in Marlborough, so we make wines that have great purity and lightness in this region.” Examples of Marlborough wines that fit this stylistic bill include Zephyr Riesling, which he produces for his family company, and also Framingham Rieslings, Te Whare Ra Riesling, Fromm Riesling and Forrest Estate Doctor’s Riesling – “totally in that German Kabinett style”. “I believe that Riesling is the only variety where you can pick it unripe and make a 7% to 8% alcohol wine with 80 grams residual sugar at one spectrum and pick it over ripe to make a dry Riesling at

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015

the cake for pushing its virtues.” His modest approach belies the fact that he is at the helm of making some of New Zealand’s most commercially successful Rieslings for both Accolade Wines’ Mud House and Waipara Hills brands, and for Zephyr Wines. The first Zephyr Riesling was made in 2009 from grapes grown on a 1.5 acre vineyard on silty soils on the banks of the Opawa River. “Those soils provide us with lovely lime blossom characters in Riesling, which tends to age really well from there.” While the quantities of the Zephyr Wine brand remain relatively small, the nationwide distribution network is strong; at Glengarry’s in the North Island; Regional Wines in Wellington and

on the wine list at a select range of restaurants. The on-premise channel is exactly where niche wines such as Riesling and Gewurztraminer (another focus for Zephyr Wines) do best, suggests Glover. He works closely with Accolade’s winemakers to determine the style of the different Rieslings that the company produces. Accolade winemakers Simon McGeorge, Cleighten Cornelius,

Nadine Worley and Glover all have a slightly different take on the Riesling theme. “I like the freshness and purity of Riesling whereas Simon quite likes those darker flavours; if you look at Equinox Riesling then you can see richer riper Riesling characteristics whereas Mud House Estate is a different style. “One of the wines is just a bit sweeter than the other by about 5 to 8 grams of residual sugar, roughly, and that makes an important difference in taste. They both offer really nice differences in flavour profiles. One will have more limes and the other will have more mandarin characters.”

The future for New Zealand Riesling “Riesling is a fanatical hobby; you’ve got to slip into the kitchen and discuss it in hushed tones

whereas Sauvignon Blanc is a wine that everybody understands.” Glover suggests that New Zealand’s cool climate provides it with a distinctive edge for grape varieties such as Riesling, which could be a unique selling proposition for this variety. “I think the freshness of New Zealand Riesling can give it an edge over some Australian styles, which I have always tended to look to for inspiration because I like their dry taste and the way that they evolve over time. But I am finding that New Zealand Riesling can be more distinctive, which I put down to the naturally high acidity of the grape and our cool climate. These two factors go together extremely well when making high quality white wines in a wide range of styles.” ■ joellethomson@vodafone.co.nz

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NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015 // 63

NEW ZEALAND INDUCTEES

BROTHERS HONOURED JOELLE THOMSON

he Royal Easter Wine Show 2015 broke with tradition, honouring two members of one family simultaneously as inductees to its Wine Hall of Fame; a recognition of the contribution of a single family, in its 100th year, as it was of individuals “From the foundation of Babich Wines in humble circumstances in 1916 by their Croatian immigrant father, Josip Babich, his sons, Peter and Joe, aided by their sisters, have created a wine company now known round the world for the quality and consistency of its wines,” said Terry Dunleavy, founder of the Royal Easter Wine Show. Babich Wines is one of New Zealand’s leading wine exporting companies, with sales to 35 countries around the world on a significant scale. This was part of the reason for the recognition. But the contributions to the New Zealand wine industry of both Peter Babich

Joe Babich

MBE, FWINZ and his winemaking brother, Joe Babich ONZM, also contributed. Peter joined his father in the family vineyard in 1948 at 16 years old. In 1989 he was awarded an M.B.E. for Services to New Zealand viticulture and wine, followed by being elected a Fellow of the Wine Institute of New Zealand Inc in 1996. In 2013 he was awarded the Sir George Fistonich Medal in Recognition of Service to New Zealand wine at the New Zealand International Wine Show. Among his many other contributions to New Zealand wine, he has been a leading advocate for Category II (medium-sized) wine companies

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Peter Babich

and he remains actively involved in the business as chairman of Babich Wines Ltd; “My retirement a few years back didn’t last long,” he likes to joke. His second son David (third generation) is now the general manager of Babich Wines. Joe Babich was the company’s winemaker for 35 vintages. He joined the family business in 1958 when its annual grape crush was approximately 30 tonnes, and the predominant production was fortified wines and generic whites and reds. Joe was a founder and member and active leader of the Young Winemakers’ Group, which helped to raise the standards of

New Zealand winemaking in the 1970s. Both men progressively modernised the winery and pioneered vineyards in regions outside of Auckland, including the Irongate vineyard in Hawke’s Bay; home to the grapes for one of New Zealand’s first Chardonnays to be fermented and matured on its yeast lees in barrels. Joe was recognised with the Winemaker of the Year Award at the Royal Easter Show Wine Awards in 1994 and awarded the Sir George Fistonich Medal for service to New Zealand wine at the New Zealand International Wine Show 2013. In the 2015 New Year’s Honours List, Joe was appointed an Officer of the New Zealand Order of Merit (ONZM), for services to the wine industry. He was a former wine judge at the Royal Easter Show Wine Awards, and later became Chairman of Judges at the Air New Zealand Wine Awards. ■

INDUSTRY NEWS

A MILLION RECYCLES B

y the end of this month, New Zealand farmers and growers will have recycled one million kg of plastic containers through the Agrecovery Rural Recycling programme. “It’s a significant milestone for sustainability in the primary sector, so we’re celebrating by giving away a new Suzuki farm bike,” says Agrecovery Foundation Chair Adrienne Wilcock. The Agrecovery container programme started in 2007, offering farmers and growers free recycling

of plastic containers from 12 participating brand owners at 25 collection points. It now has over 60 brand owners of agrichemical, dairy hygiene and animal health products financially supporting the programme, with more than 70 permanent collection points throughout the country. And the number of farmers and growers recycling with Agrecovery is growing significantly year on year. “In year one we collected 32,850 kg and now, in year eight, we expect to reach 230,000 kg,

taking us well past one million kg overall. “Laid end to end, 1 million kg of containers would stretch approximately 325km or the entire length of the Clutha, New Zealand’s second longest river.” The recycled containers are sent to Astron Plastics in Auckland for processing into safe end uses, such as underground electrical cable cover. Through recycling with Agrecovery, farmers and growers have avoided using the equivalent of 8,500 cubic meters of farm dumps,

or unnecessarily polluting the air and land by burning the plastic,” says Wilcock. “Instead, using this volume of recycled plastic compared to new plastic has an energy saving equivalent to 1.875 million litres of petrol. That’s a massive environmental benefit whichever way you look at it.” To ‘Kick start your winter clean up’ with Agrecovery and be in to win, simply take your triple rinsed containers to an Agrecovery container site or event before the end of June. ■

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REGIONS NORTH CANTERBURY

LIFTING THE VEIL JOELLE THOMSON

aking something tangibly interesting and different is the driving force behind North Canterbury winemaker Guy Porter’s new white wine, which he has labeled, simply, Sous voile. The French name literally translates to ‘under a veil’. It is labeled without varietal or vintage in 500ml bottles and described as ‘A nutty dry white wine aged in old oak barrels under a veil of yeast’. His inspiration for this style of wine comes from high quality dry whites from France’s small, eastern region of Jura, and the dry sherries of Andalucia in southern Spain. Neither region is normally credited with inspiring a new style of wine in the Southern Hemisphere, but Porter advocates diversity, s ay i n g t h a t his inner muse inspired him to make a wine that highlights the diversity in the wine world. “I believe that we can’t have a diverse and healthy indus-

try without a wider range of wines.” The raw material for Porter’s new nutty dry white is no secret – it is 100% Pinot Gris - but it is not the primary message of the wine, either. “This wine is not about vintage or variety. I started with Pinot Gris, which was in barrel for a year. At the end of that period. I could see a sort of nuttiness developing in its flavour, and I thought this was a really intriguing character and wanted to follow this process to see where it would lead.” Having had exposure to nutty oxidative wines from the Jura and sherry, he decided to follow the example of winemakers in those regions, leaving his Pinot Gris on ullage and allowing the levels to drop over time as a surface film was maintained in the barrels. This took place over approximately three years. By

Guy Porter

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the end of that time, some of the yeast cover wasn’t complete, so he began to top barrels, so that the wine would not oxidise completely. The result is a fresh but not fruity white wine, which has powerful intensity of pronounced savoury oatmeal and white nut flavours. It is not recognizable as a varietal wine because fruit flavours have been toned down, due to the strong influence of the yeast. “We want to be inventive and try different stuff and that’s what drives us,” Porter says. “But I realize that if we want people to pay more for an interesting and different wine, then we need to make a compelling argument to pay extra money for it.” Ironically, his compelling argument comes from Pinot Gris, which tends to crop generously, except in the region in which Porter lives. “Nature’s blessing is a poor fruit set in spring in Waipara, which means that we can grow our grapes without the use of herbicides and with open canopies. I am able to keep bunch sizes down by spur pruning rather than cane pruning, which I set up about three to four years ago.” His cropping levels for this wine were between three and five tonnes per hectare; “I believe that to produce good Pinot Gris, you need to treat it the same way in the vineyard as you treat Pinot Noir,” he says. Porter says that pruning is relatively low in cost and its use helps to keep bunch sizes down. “If you want to do stuff like bunch or shoot thinning in the

vineyard, one way or another you’re going to spend money on people in the vineyard. “This is a way of circumventing some of that cost whilst retaining low cropping levels for his Pinot Gris grapes. Will he make Sous voile again? “It’s been received very well by the trade. Six months ago I had this wine in barrel and I thought, nobody’s going to buy it or be interested. I like this stuff but it’s a pretty tough market out there but people have been very positive about the style and the difference that it offers.” ■ joellethomson@ vodafone.co.nz

WINE EVENTS

GAME OF RHONES TESSA NICHOLSON

o that is not a mis-spelling above, it actually is what is says – Game of Rhones, not to be mistaken for the ever popular books and TV series by George R Martins. Into its third year, the Game of Rhones is a wine lovers dream – featuring wines that are made from the classic grape varieties for which the Rhone Valley is known for. For the first time ever it is coming to New Zealand, after two successful years of doing the rounds in Australia. Here is what the very tongue in cheek blurb has to say about this upcoming event.

“Game of Rhones is a combative celebration of the classic grape varieties of the Rhone Valley in France. Think Shiraz, Grenache, Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne to name a few.

“This will be your chance to taste and choose for yourself a favourite variety, style and maybe even a region. “With 20 producers and dozens of wines for tasting, the range

of styles and characters and diversity will be an all out assault on the senses. “Is there one wine to rule them all? Who will that be? What grape variety will it be? What house and region will reign supreme? That is for you to decide. After tasting your way around the room, we’ll ask you to vote for your favourite wine of the day. There will even be wines from ‘Beyond the Wall, in the Rhone Bar.” A number of wineries will be attending the first ever New Zealand event on July 4, in Auckland. Book your tickets before the winter arrives. ■

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REGIONS GISBORNE

BABYING WINE JUSTINE TYERMAN

hinese oenology and viticulture student Fuyao Yang learned many important lessons during her 2015 vintage in Gisborne but one of the most valuable was her realisation that wines-in-the-making are like little babies which need to be watched at all times. Fuyao (Yoyo is her Kiwi name), one of two young Chinese cellar hands at Wright’s Vineyard and Winery at Manutuke this season, is a third-year oenology and viticulture student at Lincoln University. She worked with owner and winegrower Geoff Wright while on a six-week practicum, helping with the 2015 vintage. “I underwent every process of winemaking including harvesting, crushing, pressing, racking, plunging and inoculating,” said Yoyo who comes from north China. “I learned a lot and although I made some mistakes, from these mistakes, I realised the wines we are making are just like little babies which need to be looked after well. We must always keep our eyes on them. This also helped me recognise a problem with the wine and try to solve it as early as

possible. Yoyo said she was happy and grateful to have worked with Geoff. “When Geoff was 25 years old, his dream was to have his own vineyard and winery and now it has come true. I am still looking for my dream but hopefully I can have an exact goal before I am 25 and make it come true.

“I have finished my practical work now and I am looking forward to tasting the final wines, especially the reserve Chardonnay and Semillon dessert wine. Lawrence Jiang from Shanghai wanted to work with Geoff after learning about how he started off in the wine industry. “Knowing he started by making wine in a shipping container

and seeing what Wrights have now achieved, it’s kind of legendary and inspiring,” said Lawrence. “The hard work and craftsmanship from the vineyard to the cellar is remarkable. Hand-picking and sorting during harvesting and gentle hand-plunging of the red which is sometimes even done at midnight - these are sure to be valuable memories of my stay at

Lawrence Jiang kneading cow dung for a biodynamic preparation at Wright’s Vineyard and Winery.

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Wrights.” Lawrence said the wine industry in China today was similar to how it was in New Zealand decades ago. “It’s still a baby but growing fast,” he said. “I’ve noticed some changes in drinking habits these days. Chinese people are not only drinking baijiu (a kind of traditional spirit made by the brewing and distillation of grains) but trying to drink more diversely. The capital strength and tremendous domestic market in China keep the industry booming. Wine clubs and exhibitions have sprung up in the biggest cities and investments are being pumped into existing wine regions. “But the weakness of the industry is the lack of support structure – there are no industry associations, and complementary industries like nurseries and equipment suppliers are under-

developed. There’s also a lack of an experienced workforce.” Looking ahead, Lawrence plans to stick with winemaking while seeking chances to introduce New Zealand wines to China. “I’m not talking about the big players but small boutique wineries like Wrights. Furthermore, within the next 15 years I’m looking forward to having my own vineyard and helping Ningxia, the most promising wine region in China, to develop star products like Gisborne Chardonnay and Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc,” he said. Geoff said it was exciting to employ two qualified cellar hands from China this season. “It’s not easy for these guys to get long-term employment so we see it as our duty in some way to help the new generation of winemakers,” said Geoff. ■ justine.tyerman@clear.net.nz

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www.nzwinegrower.co.nz NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015 // 69

NEW STYLES

A CHABLIS INFLUENCE NEIL HODGSON

he wine industry is a as much as she could about winvibrant, ever-changing emaking techniques in the region. industry that throws up Things like juice turbidity, barrel new challenges with each versus tank ferment and maturavintage. However people also need tion, fermention temperatures something new to keep them fresh and many other small elements and motivated rather than repeating the same thing every year. That has been part of the inspiration behind Andrew Greenhough exploring a new Chardonnay style since 2012. The Greenhough Espérance is a Chablis influenced Chardonnay that Greenhough says he is doing for himself as much as anything. It is a style of wine he enjoys and producing it is a way of keeping the winery business interesting. He also enjoys seeing the potential of his vineyard being expressed in new ways. Andrew Greenhough What Gree nhough didn’t want was a simple Chardonnay or simply an that contribute to the wines of unoaked Chardonnay. He wanted Chablis. He says “this becomes something that would express the the starting point of a plan for characters he saw in fruit from his your own experience establishvineyard and the ripe acidity in the ing what works for your fruit and your market.” fruit was one of the motivations. When it comes to trying someIn creating a Chablis influthing new and refining it over a enced wine Greenhough says number of years he says; “for me making decisions to express the there still has to be a very well characteristics of the fruit is vital; informed plan, a broader picture pick it too soon and the acidity about decision making not just isn’t ripe, pick it too late and the ‘giving it a go’. This started with ripe fruit characters can overhis assistant winemaker spend- power the elegance he is striving ing a vintage in Chablis to glean for. His vineyard tends towards

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NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015

low pH and ripe citrus-focussed acidity and he wanted “to create a style that allows these characters to be expressive in the wine without the winemaking influence becoming the star of the show.” The mineral character of the fruit from his Hope Vineyard is another factor he has had to consider in his winemaking decisions. For him this minerality is a sensation with a gentle saline, stoney character. “French wines can have quite firm mineral and fresh characters without being tart. There is often just a fresh sensation without the taste of acid” and that is something he is using as a guiding influence in the making of Espérance. Espérance is not an unoaked Chardonnay, the whole strategy for the style is about building something that has complexity based on calculated winemaking decisions. Greenhough says; “not having oak as a dominant component means I have one thing less to get wrong. Chardonnay is a challenging variety anyway and that challenge is part of the appeal.” He has made a conscious decision to allow time for complexities from lees to develop by leaving it in well-seasoned barrels for six

months before sitting in stainless steel tanks for another 12 months. This also leaves him scope for barrel ferment to bring in other layers of complexity in future vintages as he refines this style. While the winemakers at Greenhough Vineyards are experimenting with skin ferments in other white varieties that result in a phenolic structure, with this Chablis style the structure is in the acidity. As a wine style, Espérance is a slightly lower alcohol wine, about 13 percent instead of the normal14 percent he gets from his fruit, but with ripe acidity and a linear structure. The evolution in development of this wine hasn’t been without its challenges, his assistant winemaker moved on to a new opportunity after the vintage in Chablis but not before she had passed on some valuable information. Greenhough says change always brings something new and positive but being a small business and small winery operation he is really reliant on the input others bring. “You can’t do it all on your own. “Converting the vineyard to organic (BioGro certified in 2011), was a challenge and introduced the potential for something new, it was re-invigorating keeping us proactive instead of repeating the same old stuff. The wine industry is a creative business and that is part of its appeal. The more you think about it , the more you see new directions and the more interesting life is.” ■ neil@hodgson.net.nz

EXPORT NEWS

ONE MILLION CASES IN CANADA

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ew Zealand wine exports to Canada have just exceeded 1 million cases as of February 2015. Recently sales in Canada have been very impressive and New Zealand wines are currently the fastest growing category in Canada of any wine region, +11.6% MAT in February. Over the past eight years the category lit fire across the country primarily in Ontario, Quebec, Alberta and BC and then later the smaller provinces of Nova Scotia, Manitoba and Newfoundland. In this time New Zealand wine sales have grown tenfold to achieve the lofty heights of 1,000,000 cases! Looking back to 22 years ago, New Zealand wines were selling less than 50,000 cases a year across Canada. Montana, Stoneleigh, Corbans, Nobilo, Babich, Delegat and Coopers Creek were the number one Robert Ketchin selling brands. The growth in sales since then can certainly be attributed to the quality of New Zealand wine and the unique styles we offer - focused, vibrant and perfect for today’s food and lifestyle in Canada. Robert Ketchin, Marketing Manager for New Zealand Winegrowers Canada, acknowledges that the support of the Liquor Boards would not have happened if it were not for the hard work of each individual winery that has spent years coming to Canada attending the New Zealand Winegrowers wine fairs and investing in the Liquor Board programs. “I would like to take this opportunity to recognise the many road warriors whom I have had the pleasure to work alongside for many years, and who have become good friends. Without your efforts and commitment we would not be where we are today. At Ketchin Marketing we are proud to be part of the New Zealand Winegrowers team. “Looking to the future, it is important for everyone to know that New Zealand stands out above all other countries for their commitment to sustainability and conserving the land for future generations. This is a very important platform for our future with consumers globally.” ■

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WINEMAKING NEWS

WINEMAKER RETURNS DOWN UNDER TESSA NICHOLSON

ast year Wendy Stuckey was named as one of the 20 most admired winemakers in North America. The previous year she was named as one of the top 100 most influential winemakers. Her recent appointment as Chief Winemaker for Constellation Brands NZ is a coup for both the company and the New Zealand wine industry as a whole. Stuckey will take up her new role in early July replacing longterm winemaker Darryl Woolley, who is retiring after 30 years in the industry. With a long list of credentials behind her, Stuckey comes directly from Chateau Ste. Michelle, in Washington State, where she has worked for more than seven years. Prior to that she was winemaker at Wolf Blass Wines in Australia. She is renowned as a white wine maker, with Riesling in particular helping to forge her career. Given Chateau Ste. Michelle is the world’s largest producer of Riesling at more than 1 million cases a year, Stuckey has had plenty of experience with this variety. But Sauvignon Blanc is no stranger to her. “I have been making Sauvignon Blanc in the industry for many years,” she says. “When I was at Wolf Blass, we sourced fruit from many regions, including the Adelaide Hills, Mount Gambier and the Yarra. And here in Washington I make two Sauvignon Blancs. One is a single vineyard wine and the other is a blend of different AVA’s (American Viticultural Areas). They are at two different price

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points. We also have a small 200 case blend of Sauvignon Blanc for our Wine Club. So I have plenty of experience with the varietal, although no experience in making New Zealand Sauvignon. “That will be a great learning curve for me.” She says while she has good knowledge of New Zealand wines and Marlborough in particular, she is by no means intimate with it, which to her is perhaps a positive. “When I came here to Washington State, I didn’t know a great deal about the region. So in some respects, the move to New Zealand is a little bit the same. There will be a lot for me to learn and that in itself is very exciting. I think in some ways the most important thing is to come with an open mind.” Her strongest creed when it comes to winemaking is the wines must show a sense of place. “Whether that be a single vineyard wine or a regional wine or even a New Zealand wine.”  Sauvignon Blanc, just like Riesling Stuckey says, is very much a wine that clearly shows that sense of place. Both are varietals that require very little interference from the winemaker. “Riesling is one of those varieties that what you taste in the vineyard is what you get in the bottle,” she says. “As a winemaker you are almost a custodian of that varietal. You have to capture it at the right time in the vineyard and then really as a winemaker you don’t need to do that much with it. It has

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015

the purity of fruit, and the acidity. It’s a great food wine and also a wine that you can drink on its own. Sauvignon Blanc like Riesling, if you are not doing much barrel or malolactic fermentation, is also about the vineyards and expressing their flavor pro-

files. Constellation has some very good vineyards and that is a key part of the quality we have to capture.” While she may have missed out on the vintage – which she has only heard good things about - Stuckey is looking forward to being involved in the blending of the 2015 wines. She is also looking forward to being part of a team that has years of experience in terms of winemaking skills. “I know a lot of the winemakers have been there for many years and so I will be learning a lot from

them. I want it to be a team effort for all of us and I enjoy that part of the wine industry. I like working with people – so it won’t be so much of a challenge, but more about continuing to make great New Zealand wines.” Oh and there is one other thing she can’t wait to get her hands on – hokey pokey ice-cream – something that has been lacking in her diet since moving to Washington State in 2007. ■ tessa.nicholson@me.com

REGIONS CENTRAL OTAGO

GOING INTERNATIONAL JOELLE THOMSON

t is one brand with one owner and one varietal wine but from this year onwards, the winery formerly known as Surveyor Thomson has rebranded to Domaine-Thomson (no relation to this writer) and acquired land in Burgundy. The land acquisition marks the first time that a Central Otago wine company has owned vineyards in Burgundy and the first time that one company has been able to produce Pinot Noir from

The land acquisition marks the first time that a Central Otago wine company has owned vineyards in Burgundy and the first time that one company has been able to produce Pinot Noir from both regions. both regions. Otago is the world’s most Pinot Noir dominant wine region with approximately 80 per cent of all

its vineyards devoted to the red grape, while Burgundy (where Pinot Noir originates) has approximately 35 per cent of its vineyards

devoted to Pinot Noir, with the balance being mostly Chardonnay (approximately 65 per cent) with Aligote and Sauvignon Blanc making up the remainder. The Burgundian land acquisition took place in 2013 when owners PM and David Hall-Jones acquired a small plot of vineyard land in Gevrey-Chambertin, Burgundy; where they have had a home since 2001. But the first wine will take a little longer to appear. It has been made but has yet to

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015 // 73

be bottled; it is a 2013 vintage, which will be branded DomaineThomson. It was made and will be bottled by the Burgundy-based winemaker, Gerard Quiby, who also grows the grapes that go into the wine. He will retain approximately two thirds of the production for his own label; in exchange he grows the grapes, buys the barrels, makes the wine and bottles it for DomaineThomson. DomaineThomson general manager Claudio Heye guesstimates that about 20 to 30 cases of the inaugural 2013 Domaine

Thomson Gevrey Chambertin will be destined for New Zealand, arriving early next year. It will be distributed nationwide in New Zealand by Auckland-based French wine importer, Maison Vauron. Two years ago DomaineThomson’s Otago vineyards began a conversion to organic and biodynamic processes. The vines are not yet fully accredited and Heye says the intention is not to use the green credentials as a marketing tool. In its first incarnation as Surveyor Thomson, the company was started in Otago in 2001; the year that the owners first planted vines at Lowburn. Their first vintage was in 2003 and their second label, named Surveyor Thomson Explorer, was launched in 2008 as a gateway into good quality Pinot Noir. The new 2013 Domaine-

Thomson Explorer Pinot Noir was released in May this year and it is made from the seven hectare Moon Block Vineyard, which faces north west, is cropped at slightly higher levels than DomaineThomson Pinot Noir, and is aged for less time in oak; 50 percent is aged in two year old barrels while 50 percent is aged entirely in stainless steel, which helps to accentuate the fruit forward aromatics of this wine. All of the fruit is hand picked for the winery’s Domaine-Thomson Pinot Noir and Dean Shaw has been the winemaker since the brand’s inception. This year his name was added to the front label, which Heye says Shaw agreed to reluctantly; “But we are happy that he has agreed because we want to make a great wine and for it to have a connection with its maker.” ■ joellethomson@vodafone.co.nz

WineTech Australia Trade Show presents

July 14 to 16, 2015

Goyder Pavilion, Adelaide Showground, SA

The Australian wine industry’s premier tradeshow will return to Adelaide South Australia in a dynamic new format from July 14 to 16, 2015. The event will showcase over 150 leading industry suppliers and be complimented with seminars, workshops, social and networking events.

Further Details

74 //

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015

www.winetechaustralia.com.au

P: 08 8297 1688

COUNTRY

EVENT

CITY

EVENT DATE

USA

Bottlenotes

San Diego

Thur 25 June 15

Foodies Festival

Bristol

26-28 June 15

Foodies Festival

Cheshire

17-19 July 15

Foodies Festival

Harrogate

21-23 August 15

To register for these events, log onto nzwine.com/members then click on NZ Wine Marketing. You can also contact the New Zealand Winegrowers Global Events Team on events@nzwine. com or (09) 306 5643.

UPCOMING EVENTS

NELSON TO HOST AIR NEW ZEALAND WINE AWARDS DINNER 2015 Sunny Nelson will provide the backdrop to the 29th Air New Zealand Wine Awards dinner in November. The black tie awards dinner will be held on Saturday 28 November at Saxton Stadium. The wineries of Nelson will play host to many of the country’s top winemakers and industry figures who will gather to celebrate New Zealand’s best wines, with up to 18 trophies awarded including the coveted Air New Zealand Champion Wine of the Show trophy. Air New Zealand Wine Awards Dinner Saturday 28 November 2015 Saxton Stadium, Nelson

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015 // 75

CALENDAR JUNE 8:

NZW Grape Day – Central Otago – Golden Gate Lodge, Cromwell

10:

14-16: Spiegelau International Wine Competition Judging – Marlborough

14-16: Winetech Australia 2015

NZW Grape Day – Marlborough, Blenheim Convention Centre

10:

– Adelaide

17: Central Otago Young Viticulturist of The Year Competition

Hot Red Hawke’s Bay – Maritime Museum

– For more information contact Natalie Wilson - info@cowa.org.nz

– Auckland

24:

11:

Marlborough Young Viticulturist of the Year – Marlborough Research Centre

Hot Red Hawke’s Bay – Mac’s Function Centre – Wellington

– For more information contact Samantha Young – samantha@wine-marlborough.co.nz

12: NZW Grape Day – Hawke’s Bay – Napier War Memorial Convention Centre

26: New World Wine Awards entries close

JULY 2:

Hawke’s Bay Young Viticulturist of the Year – Te Awa Estate Winery - For more info – email Mike Saunders; mikes@villamaria.co.nz

3: Marlborough Young Winemaker of the Year Competition

28: Martinborough Young Viticulturist of the Year – For further information contact Braden Crosby – braden@borthwick.co.nz

30 – Aug 2: The Food Show – ASB Showgrounds – Auckland

AUGUST 7:

Game of Rhones

Spiegelau International Wine Competition Awards Dinner

– Shed 10, 89 Quay Street, Queens Wharf, Auckland

– Auckland

26-28: Romeo Bragato Conference 2015 – Hastings

SEPTEMBER 4-6: 8-10: Organic/Biodynamic Wine and Viticulture Conference – Blenheim Convention Centre. Register at www.organicwineconference.com

12: Celebrate Bastille Day – Clos Henri Vineyard – Marlborough

76 //

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012

The Food Show Wellington – Westpac Stadium

OCTOBER 22:

The Marlborough Wine Show Awards Dinner - Blenheim

STATISTICS

MAJOR NZ VINEYARD AREAS PRODUCING HECTARES Region

PRINCIPAL EXPORT MARKETS

2014

2017 forecast

22,907.0

23,684.3

67.1

4774.3

4886.6

13.9

Otago

1931.8

1953.2

5.5

Gisborne

1914.6

1961.2

5.6

Waipara

1254.6

1257.2

3.6

1122.7

1159.7

3.3

Wairarapa / Wellington

995.1

1017.7

2.9

Auckland / Northland

392.3

407.1

1.2

24.6

23.28

0.01

35,510.1

36,547.3

Marlborough Hawkes Bay

Nelson

Waikato / Bay of Plenty National Total

% of Total in 2017 forecast

Country

MAJOR VARIETIES IN MAJOR AREAS Variety

Sauvignon Blanc

2014

% producing area

56.4

20,697.2

Pinot Noir

5509.2

15.5

5995.5

Chardonnay

3345.5

9.4

3441.1

Pinot Gris

2451.2

6.9

1395.3

Merlot

1290.0

3.6

1395.3

783.7

2.2

781.1

Syrah

433.1

1.2

446.7

Gewurztraminer

375.5

1.1

363.8

Cabernet Sauv

289.4

0.8

306

Viognier

187.4

0.5

182.2

Malbec

126.8

0.4

134.8

112.7

0.3

112

576.3

1.6

Cabernet Franc All other varieties Total

35,510.1

Auckland/Northland Waikato/Bay of Plenty

Number of

Regional area

Average of

Vineyards

Planted ha

area ha

111

392.4

24.6

2.1

100

1914.6

19.1

Hawke’s Bay

260

4774.3

18.4

118

1122.3

9.5

Marlborough

1014

22,907.0

22.6

Waipara

1254.5

19.6

Canterbury

193.0

8.4

Wellington/Wairarapa

119

995.1

9.1

Otago

213

1931.8

17.4

2046

35,510.1

17.4

National

Growth Decline Litres %

Growth Decline FOB %

56,991

339,424

USA

52,283

352,252

Australia

57,893

369,821

-4

Canada

8992

89,442

Netherlands

6329

38,913

1140

7637

2203

15,773

-1

Japan

1122

13,346

-8

-5

Germany

1810

10,149

-22

-19

China

2012

27,378

Hong Kong

1365

16,910

-1

-7

Singapore

1543

20,205

-2

Finland

0.267

2229

Norway

0.267

2252

-14

-10

Sweden

1.536

12,502

-5

-6

Others

7165

62,209

202,925,046

1,380,449,158

Denmark

Ireland

3.5

Gisborne

Nelson

$ FOB

594.8 36,547.3

AVERAGE VINEYARD SIZE Region

Litres (m)

2017 forecast

20,029.4

Riesling

Exports for the year to date to the end of January 2015 (Moving Annual Total)

TOTAL

// NZ WINEGROWER NZ WINEGROWER FEBRUARY/MARCH JUNE/JULY //2015 77

RESEARCH SUPPLEMENT Information and Updates on NZ Winegrowers Research Programmes. Editor: Dr Simon Hooker, General Manager Research and Innovation

A regular feature at the back of each issue of WineGrower to inform industry people about research projects being undertaken for their benefit. Newly approved projects (when available) are briefly summarised in the first section ‘Introducing New Projects’. Longer reports in the section headed ‘Progress Reports’, will describe what has been achieved so far. Scientists in charge of each project have been asked to make these reports reader-friendly rather than to follow the usual format of scientific papers. When completed, each project will be reported in full detail, with references, on the website: www.nzwine.com/members/research

LIST OF PROJECTS Quality Wine Styles for Existing and Developing Markets The pathway of volatile sulphur compounds in wine yeast The Bragato Trust and NZW Scholarship University of Auckland (Dr Bruno Fedrizzi - student Matias Kinzurk) Preliminary investigation of factors responsible for variability in tartaric acid additions to Pinot noir Lincoln University (Roland Harrison) The pathway of volatile sulphur compounds in wine yeast – The Bragato Trust and NZW Scholarship University of Auckland (Dr Bruno Fedrizzi - student Matias Kinzurk) Lifestyle Wine (PGP) University of Auckland and Plant and Food Research (Various) Jointly funded by NZW and MPI Primary Growth Partnership (PGP) fund.

78 //

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015

Pests and Disease

Sustainability/Organics

Virus diversity in New Zealand grapevines: sequence, ecology and impact – The Rod Bonfiglioli Scholarship Plant and Food Research (Dr Robin MacDiarmid - student Arnaud Blouin)

Effects of undervine vegetation management on grape quality, vine performance, grape composition, and soil properties Eastern Institute of Technology (EIT) (Mark Krasnow)

Sustaining vineyards through practical management of grapevine trunk diseases South Australian Research & Development Institute (Mark Sosnowski) Supported by MPI Sustainable Farming Fund

Eco-verifying Viticultural Production for Policy, Regulatory & Market Requirements Plant and Food Research (Brent Clothier)

Implementation of Virus Elimination Strategy Various (Nick Hoskins – Project Manager) Supported by MPI Sustainable Farming Fund Sector weather data licence & tools HortPlus (NZ) Ltd. Developing Powdery Mildew Best Practise in New Zealand Vineyards Lewis Wright Valuation & Consultancy Ltd (Trevor Lupton)

Pinot noir wine composition and sensory characteristics as affected by soil type and irrigation in the Waipara region Lincoln University (Glen Creasy)

Cost Reduction/Increased Profitability Grapevine growth stage monitoring for prediction of key phenological events Plant and Food Research (Rob Agnew) Supported by MPI Sustainable Farming Fund

PROGRESS REPORTS

Influence of juice pH on thiol production Grose C, Martin D, Stuart L, Albright A, Haycock S, Gunson A - Plant & Food Research 12-108

6000

5000

Wine 3-MH (ng/L)

is modified by a “skin contact/ pressing” effect independently of a “juice pH” effect, or whether changes to juice pH that indirectly come from grape processing techniques are more influential, by modifying yeast metabolisms and subsequent volatile thiol production. To understand the relative influences of these variables, we carried out two separate experiments over two seasons (2013 and 2014): In experiment 1, juice pH was changed using additions to pressed juice - to vary thiol production in wine using methods other than skin contact In experiment 2, juice pH was changed by altering skin contact duration to crushed grapes – to modify thiol production in wine by varying the process method. Sauvignon Blanc grapes were sourced from a vineyard potentially high in thiols in Lower Wairau, Marlborough. In experiment 1, juice was collected from the commercial press at Saint Clair Family Estate and returned to the research winery. Juice pH was manipulated with increasing additions of either potassium bicarbonate (KHCO3; 0, 0.5, 1, and 2 g/L) or heavy press fractions (0, 10, 20 and 40%) to the juice before fermentation. In experiment 2, grapes were hand harvested from randomised plots from the same vineyard used in experiment 1. Juice pH was manipulated using increasing skin contact durations (0, 1 and 3 hours) applied to crushed grapes before pressing and fermentation. For both experiments, wine

4000

3000

2000 2014 2013

1000

0 0.00

0.50

1.00

1.50

2.00

KHCO3 Addition Rate (g/L) Figure 1:

Effect of potassium bicarbonate (KHCO3) additions to Sauvignon blanc

on concentrations of the thiol 3-mercaptohexanol (3MH) in additions wine for Figure 1: juice Effect of potassium bicarbonate (KHCO3) 2013 and 2014. Error bars represent 5% LSD. to Sauvignon blanc juice on concentrations of the thiol 3-mercaptohexanol (3MH) in wine for 2013 and 2014. Error bars represent 5% LSD.

20 18 16

Wine IBMP (ng/L)

The varietal thiols in Sauvignon Blanc wines are significant contributors to the passionfruit, grapefruit and tropical aromas. High thiol concentrations are one of the key distinguishing features of a typical New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, often many fold higher than found in wines from competitor countries. The ability to manipulate wine thiol profiles would allow New Zealand winemakers to further differentiate their product from the competition and to protect New Zealand’s unique position as the world’s leading producer of premium Sauvignon Blanc wine. From related research we know that grape processing methods can alter the intensity of thiol-related characters in the finished wines. For example, thiol-related flavours are 10-20 times higher in wines made from machine-harvested grapes (crushing and skin contact) than from hand-harvested, whole bunch pressed grapes (no crushing, no skin contact). During fruit processing, as skin contact time is extended, there is an increase in potassium extraction from the skins, with a corresponding increase in juice pH. Likewise as pressures and duration of grape pressing increase, potassium concentrations increase and organic acid concentrations decrease, raising the juice pH. Overseas research has shown that pH and potassium imbalances can greatly affect viable yeast populations, yeast metabolisms and fermentation rates – all of which are important in volatile thiol production. We wanted to see whether volatile thiol concentration in Sauvignon Blanc wine

14 12 10 8 6 4

2014 2013

2 0 0.00

0.10

0.20

0.30

0.40

0.50

Press Fraction Proportion (v/v) Figure 2: Effect of press fraction additions to Sauvignon blanc juice on Figure 2: Effect of press fraction additions to Sauvignon blanc juice concentrations of 3-isobutyl-2-methoxypyrazine (IBMP) in wine for 2013 on concentrations of represent 3-isobutyl-2-methoxypyrazine (IBMP) in wine for and 2014. Error bars 5% LSD. 2013 and 2014. Error bars represent 5% LSD.

was made in 700-mL volumes using our standard Marlborough Research Centre (MRC) winemaking protocol. Modified juices were fermented under controlled conditions and the resulting wines were chemically analysed for

major constituents, volatile thiols and methoxypyrazines. Key findings from the two years of experiments Increasing juice pH and juice potassium concentrations through increasing additions of

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015 // 79

KHCO3 consistently decreased wine volatile thiol concentrations (3MH: 3-mercaptohexanol and 3MHA: 3-mercaptohexyl acetate) even at relatively low addition rates (0.5 g/L KHCO3) (Figure 1). It would therefore appear that acid adjustments to Sauvignon blanc juices using KHCO3 should be avoided if high wine thiol concentrations are targeted. Addition of greater proportions of hard press fraction decreased wine volatile thiol concentrations even though the press fraction was likely to be richer in precursor compounds than the free run juice was. Increased precursor availability does not necessarily translate into higher thiol concentrations in wine. It is likely that the increasing

propensity for the press fraction to oxidise the blended fractions (leading to juice browning) is disrupting the metabolic pathways that lead to volatile thiol formation. From a practical perspective, inclusion of even relatively small proportions of hard pressing to a free run tank will probably result in suppression of thiol aroma compounds. Increasing skin contact duration generally had either no significant effect or it decreased (in one instance) volatile thiol concentrations in the wine. Increasing skin contact duration and press fraction additions did not affect the methoxypyrazine IBMP concentrations in the wine (these contribute to the

green-herbaceous aromatics in Sauvignon blanc wine) (Figure 2).

Conclusions The combined experimental data showed no direct or clear link between juice pH or juice K concentrations and thiol concentrations in the resulting wines. We found little evidence to suggest that higher pH, higher potassium juices in their own right contribute to higher thiols in wine. It seems more likely that viticultural and winemaking conditions that naturally lead to high pH and high potassium juices also contribute to higher thiol potential in those juices, without the existence of a direct causal link between factors. Although no increases in thiols

were achieved by altering the juice pH, either by additions to pressed juice (KHCO3 or press fractions), or by altering skin contact duration to crushed grapes, the knowledge from this experiment is still valuable for winemakers to be aware of which additions/ processes reduce thiols, but have little effect on methoxypyrazines. Acknowledgements This work was made possible by funding from New Zealand Winegrowers. The work is part of the New Zealand Grape and Wine Research programme, a joint investment by Plant & Food Research and New Zealand Winegrowers, NZW 12-108. We thank Saint Clair Family Estate for providing the site, fruit and juices used in this project.

Aiming for lower alcohol – in the vineyard The Lifestyle Wines Partnership Programme has established a range of vineyard trials designed to provide benefits to the industry well beyond the production of lower alcohol and lower calorie wines. ‘Lifestyle Wines’ is a sevenyear research and development programme directed by New Zealand Winegrowers. Funded jointly by the Ministry for Primary Industries’ Primary Growth Partnership (PGP), wine industry levies, and commercial contributions from partner wine companies (grantors), the programme focuses on how applied research and development can enhance the creation of lower alcohol and lower calorie wines. With a strong emphasis on natural production, the programme has set an objective to use sustainable viticultural techniques and native yeasts – providing wineries with a point of difference to existing processing methods and other products in the market. The programme aims to deliver eco-

80 //

nomic benefits of $285 million a year by the end of 2023. ‘We believe that the information and lessons gathered from the Lifestyle Wines programme will be of value to the wine industry as a whole,’ says Dr Simon Hooker, General Manager Research at New Zealand Winegrowers. ‘The research looks at different manipulations in the vineyard that will result in a range of tools and practices to craft flavour, alcohol, and calorie levels.’ The vineyard trials aim to provide information on grape production and how grape and wine flavours can be optimised in compromised seasons – cooler years, for example, or those truncated by rains during the harvest period. In addition, the trials are designed to provide a greater understanding of canopy management, grapevine physiology, and nutrition. Dr Damian Martin, Science Group Leader, Viticulture & Oenology at The New Zea-

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015

land Institute for Plant & Food Research Ltd, leads the science team involved in vineyard trials developed for the Lifestyle Wines Programme. Dr Martin observes that knowledge gained from the

trials may ultimately help companies to widen the harvest period. ‘That outcome would provide many wineries with additional capacity for processing,’ Dr Martin adds. ‘Fruit receival would become

less of a bottleneck.’ The first trials (2014/15) focused on Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir in Waipara and Central Otago. Other red and white varieties will be included in future research, and the findings will be reported back to industry throughout the programme.

Lifestyle Vineyard Trials 1. Irrigation Regime Aim of the trials: To work out an optimum deficit irrigation regime that will delay sugar accumulation in grapes and reduce green characters in wine without compromising the productivity of the grapevine in subsequent seasons. Three different irrigation regimes are being trialed, and each regime is measured on three different soil water-holding capacities. Results will be gathered for two more seasons, in addition to the 2014/15 data collected. The trials cover four sites, one of which is highly monitored, and three with less intensive (but commercially relevant) monitoring.

Lifestyle Wines Partnership Programme Programme start

March 2014

Length

7 years

Total Funding

$16.97 million

PGP funding

$8.13 million

Industry funding

$8.84 million

Commercial partners

NZ Winegrowers and contributing wineries*

*Accolade Wines, Allan Scott Wines, Constellation Brands, Forrest Estate, Giesen Wine Estate Canterbury, Indevin, Kono, Lawson’s Dry Hills, Marisco Vineyards, Mount Riley Wines, Mt Difficulty Wines, Pernod Ricard, Runner Duck Estate, Spy Valley Johnson Estate, Villa Maria, Whitehaven Wine Company, Wither Hills, and Yealands.

What we already know: Preveraison water deficit reduces berry size, which leads to an increased percentage of dry weight per berry, increased wine sugar free extract, and increased proline. A moderate to severe deficit increases cluster exposure, which then decreases titratable acidity (TA), increases juice phenolics, and decreases methoxypyrazines 2. Impact of Nitrogen (N) and Potassium (K) Nutrition Aim of the trials: To determine threshold N and K deficits in grapevines to delay sugar accumulation in grapes by a minimum

of one week while maintaining productivity across seasons. A comprehensive petiole (flowering and veraison) and juice (harvest) sampling regime was established in 2015 to gain baseline understanding of the different nutrition regimes, in which three different N&K fertiliser treatments were applied to selected blocks. Responses to the fertiliser treatments will be monitored from the spring of the 2015/16 season onwards. What we already know: Increasing N from deficit levels to adequate supply results in

increased photosynthetic capacity of the vine, increased yield and juice primary amino acid (PAA) content, and delays phenology – especially ripening. A K deficit slows sugar accumulation during ripening and reduces the juice pH at a given TA. 3. Impact of Leaf Area to Fruit Weight Ratio Aim of the trials: To determine a minimum leaf area to fruit weight ratio that delays veraison in grapes by at least one week while optimising within-crop maturity variability and maintaining productivity across seasons. One site was established in 2014/15, with multiple sites to be added in subsequent years. Sites will be severely trimmed and/or high leaf plucked at veraison. Juice composition responses to the leaf removal treatments will be monitored on a weekly basis. What we already know: Removal of young active leaves reduces photosynthesis and sugar accumulation in grapes, especially when treatments are applied later in the season. 4. Noble Botrytis Infections in Late-harvest Grapes Aim of the trials: To determine whether a low level of late-season ‘noble’ botrytis infection can boost the production of thiol precursors and leaf aldehydes in grapes and their corresponding aroma compounds, adding a ‘richness’ to lower alcohol wines. Five commercial vineyard trial blocks were established in 2014/15 to study seasonal management regimes to encourage late-harvest noble botrytis infection (the blocks all had a low natural botrytis infection history). The effect of the noble infection on grape and wine aroma is measured each season. What we already know: Botrytis increases volatile thiols and aromatics, stilbene oligomers and certain fatty acids, and wine viscosity.

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015 // 81

The fight against powdery mildew New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) recently held think tanks in Gisborne and Blenheim in response to growing concerns from the industry regarding the management of powdery mildew. The two events were attended by growers, industry representatives, national scientists and one of the foremost Australian experts in powdery mildew research, Dr Trevor Wicks. Powdery mildew has become an increasingly difficult disease to control for a number of growers throughout New Zealand, in large part due to disease pressure in consecutive seasons. In Gisborne, a wide range of concerns and potential research

and outreach ideas were discussed, giving insight into the type of response the industry would like from NZW. Field visits demonstrated the importance of good management practices, and how keeping on top of powdery mildew is absolutely essential to its control. A well-designed spray programme is fundamental to this effort. In Blenheim, field visits gave insight into regional powdery mildew control, and participants at the subsequent think tank session discussed the different management practices in use. Despite busy schedules during harvest, industry members repre-

senting all the growing regions in New Zealand attended the Blenheim think tank, highlighting how widespread the issue of powdery mildew has become. Presentations from scientists and practitioners generated potential research and outreach topics and highlighted gaps in industry knowledge and management practices. The NZW Research team is now reviewing think tank recommendations and working to develop outcomes that will benefit the wine industry. If you missed out on the think tank sessions and would like to add your input to the ongoing dis-

cussion, please e-mail or call Mark Eltom at NZW (mark.eltom@ nzwine.com, 09 306 5647). Powdery mildew will also be a major focus during the upcoming Grape Day technical event. The session, ‘Powdery Mildew – Bigger than Ever’, will cover more than 30 years of trials and experience, the latest on trials in New Zealand as well as an industry perspective on management of the disease. The Hawke’s Bay Grape Day will be held on Friday, 12 June, at the Napier War Memorial Conference Centre in Napier. Please visit www.grapedays.co.nz to view the full programme and to register for the event.

Dr Trevor Wicks in the field with industry participants during the powdery mildew think tank.

82 //

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2015

MIT3 M MI MIT IT3 IT3 34 471 47 71 7

. IT REDUCES THE AMOUNT OF RAW MATERIALS THAT MUST BE EXTRACTED AND TRANSPORTED;

. IT REDUCES THE AMOUNT OF WASTE SENT TO LANDFILL; . CARBON EMISSIONS ARE REDUCED.

O-I NEW ZEALAND TEL: 0800 263 390, +64 9 976 7100 EMAIL: sales.nz@ap.o-i.com w w w. o - i . c o m

w w w. g l a s s i s l i f e . c o m

w w w. f a c e b o o k . c o m / G l a s s I s L i f e

J U LY 2 0 15

ISSUE

THE OFFICIAL JOURNAL OF NEW ZEALAND WINEGROWERS

Entries are now open for the 2015 New World Wine Awards!

NEW ZEALAND WINEGROWER

TOASTING TOP WINES UNDER $25

I SSU E 9 2

Enter online now at registration.wineshow.co.nz Entries close 5pm Friday 26 June 2015 Full competition details at newworld.co.nz/topwines Enquiries to nwwa@foodstuffs.co.nz

JUN E/ JU LY 2015

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