Rural Retreats Magazine September 2015

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Rural SEPTEMBER 2015

etreats ISSUE 03

COB HOUSE SIMPLE, CHEAP & ENERGY EFFICIENT

PALLETS:

INSPIRATIONAL IDEAS AROUND THE HOMESTEAD

ESSENTIAL HOMESTEADER SKILLS - PT2


Welcome

As first leaves start to turn and the evenings start to cool, we are gently reminded of all the chores that need to be done in order to be ready for the winter ahead. That ice cold beer while relaxing in the hammock after a hard day in the sun will soon be replaced by a hot mug of cocoa or soup, in front of the fire, defrosting fingers and toes after a day out in the blustery cold. Let’s hope Autumn this year is as good as the Summer we have just had! I think I am not alone when I hope for a cool, bright and sunny Autumn with not too much rain! On behalf of the team at HQ we welcome you and look forward to your continued support of the magazine. We would also like to invite you to contact us if you have an experience you would like to share which you think would be helpful to others.

Happy Homesteading!

Contents

Homesteading Essentials: 1. Homesteader’s Essential Survival Kit 2. 101 Skills Every Homesteader Needs to Master 3. Are You Ready for Winter? 4. Pallets: Recycle. Upcycle. 5. Building with Cob. 6. How to Buy the Right Woodstove. Farm Gate: 1. Herbal Remedies for Livestock 2. Sourcing Low Cost, High Quality Feed 3. Land Management: Winter Wood Supply 4. Autumn Harvest! Pickling & Preserving! 5. Autumn in the Veg Garden 6. Tool of the month 7. Breeder’s Directory 8. Classifieds 9. Marketplace Directory

Colophon: EDITOR: Tanya Bamber DIGITAL PRODUCTION MANAGER: Jason Bamber ADVERTISING: South West Publications REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS: Nigel & Ginny Cobb, Fiona Prendergast, Karl Boken, Samantha Perry, Lorraine Jones, Nicholas Russell, Pauline Woehrle, Tamsin Cooper, Jason & Tanya Bamber. PHOTOGRAPHY: South West Publications, Wikimedia Commons and Contributing Authors, unless otherwise indicated. COVER IMAGE: Wikimedia Commons PUBLISHED BY: South West Publications, a subsidiary of Big Detail SARL, Chez Vignaud, 86460 Availles Limouzine, France. SIRET 753 167 667 00017. LEGAL: All material may not be reproduced without the express permission of South West Publications, a subsidiary of Big Detail SARL. Please ensure you verify that the company you are dealing with is a registered trading company in France and or elsewhere around the world. Articles in this issue do not necessarily reflect the views of the magazine. Toute reproduction meme partielle du contenu est interdit sans l’accord ecrit du magazine.

FOR ALL EDITORIAL , ADVERTISING & SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES: Tanya Bamber editor@southwestpublications.com tel. +33 (0)6 4898 1126


JerseyOrganic Dairy. Laitièrie Laitièrie et Crèmerie de Jersiaise

Fresh milk, butter, chunky cottage cheese, extra thick double cream, ice cream, and yoghurt available daily from our beautiful Jersey cows!

High welfare organic lamb and beef meat packs available direct from the farm to you. Chez Vignaud, 86460 Availles Limouzine, SW FRANCE. www.jerseylait.com info@jerseylait.com tel. +33 (0)6 4898 1126


Homesteader’s Survival Kit:

Every homestead needs a basic kit of essential – can’t – do – without items. Through our own personal experiences and those of other homesteaders and smallholders, we have compiled the following list of essentials: staple pullers wire cutters post hole diggers Pocket knife Baling Twine.……the farmer’s duct tape. Ten Litre Buckets………for hauling water and feed. 100m Garden Hoses………you never know how far you’ll have to pump water. Farm Truck……..1950’s or 2013, just a good one will do for hauling hay, lumber, livestock or kids. Our most reliable vehicle on the farm is a 1950’s Bedford Army Ambulance! Tractor………again 1950’s will do just fine. Wheelbarrow………to ease the load Scrap Piles………you will be amazed how much you can recycle a use for. Pitch Fork Spade Shovel Towing chain or rope 2 good Chainsaws……. One will breakdown so you need a back up Good pair of leather work gloves and hat. Mulching head for your strimmer Basic hay-making equipment for your tractor.

Please send us any suggestions for this list. We will publish it every issue.



101 Essential Homesteading Skills

Part 2: Our list of 101 skills every homesteader should not do without

51. 52. 53. 54. 55. 56. 57. 58. 59. 60. 61. 62. 63. 64. 65. 66. 67. 68.

Learn how to use a pressure canner and/or cooker. Learn how to identify the difference between edible and poisonous mushrooms. Grind your own wheat for baking. Repurpose everyday items to save them from the landfill. Learn how to sharpen a knife or axe. Learn how to prepare for a wildfire. Understand the basics of animal breeding. Learn how to work together with your neighbors to accomplish more and foster a sense of community. Know how to halter-break and train an animal. Learn how to harvest, split, and stack firewood. Learn how to make butter. Learn how to use essential oils properly and safely. Build/use a greenhouse to extend your growing season. Learn how to start seeds indoors. Store food in a root cellar or in a cool basement. Make your own vinegar. Make your own skincare items. Make your own cleaning supplies.


69. 70. 71. 72. 73. 74. 75. 76. 77. 78. 79. 80. 81. 82. 83. 84.

Learn how to make herbal extracts, infusions, poultices, and tinctures. Learn how to render lard or tallow. Learn how to make and apply whitewash. Learn how to repair a roof. Know how to humanely euthanize an animal. Understand how to identify the weeds in your yard/pastures and figure out which ones are edible. Learn how to back up a trailer. Know how to purify water. Learn how to make bone broth. Know how to use non-electric lighting. Put together a 72-hour kit for emergencies. Learn how to cook eggs in a cast iron skillet without a sticky mess. Put food scraps like eggshells, coffee grounds, apple peels, and whey to good use. Make your own bacon and cured hams. Know how to protect your livestock from predators. Learn how to make your own chicken feed.

A water filter can be created by removing the bottom of a bottle. Turn the bottle upsidedown (with the cap down down). and put the following materials in the bottle. - pebbles - Sand - a piece of cloth or bandages - charcoal - a piece of cloth or bandages - Sand - pebbles The cloth or bandages are used to ensure that all the different materials do not mix. The pebbles and sand filter the particules and the dirt out of the water. The charcoal gets a big portion of the chemicals out of the water, but it won’t get it all out. (You can use charcoal from your campfire). This filter will not remove any viruses and bacteria from the water so you have to boil the water after it is filtered.

85. 86. 87. 88. 89. 90. 91. 92. 93. 94. 95. 96. 97. 98. 99. 100. 101.

Learn about hydroponics or fish farming. Shear a sheep and process the wool. Learn how to spin wool. Know basic plumbing skills Learn how to install/use a composting toilet Learn how to use vermiculture (composting with worms) to create nutrient-rich food for your garden. Make your own fishing lures or spears. Use alternative energy sources like solar or wind to power your homestead. Implement natural pest control measures. Learn how to tie a variety of basic knots. Learn how to make and set traps. Know how to clean, dress, stitch/staple a wound in the event of an emergency. Learn how to weave. Learn how to make natural dyes. Understand how to propagate plants through root cuttings. Learn how to clear pasture and brush. Master the art of home brewing!


Are you ready for winter?

Insulate Your Loft and Walls MOST OLD HOMES AREN’T ADEQUATELY INSULATED If your loft is not insulated, then address this job as a priority — it’s one of the best ways to keep your home warm. Providing you have no condensation or damp issues and your loft is accessible, this should be a job you can carry out on a DIY basis. Most people choose to insulate using insulation ‘quilts’ made from glass, mineral wool or natural wool — a depth of 270mm should be aimed for. If your loft is hard to access, you may need to go for blown insulation – mineral wool or cellulose – which is a job best left to the professionals.

Quilts should be laid between the joists in the loft, with another layer at right angles to the joists. If you wish to use the loft for storage, you will need to lay floorboards backed with insulation over those between the joists. Flat roofs can also be insulated. Renewing the waterproof covering provides the ideal time to add insulation externally, using boarding backed with insulative materials. Internally, insulation-backed boards can again be installed. Finally, ensure the now cooler air in the loft does not cause draughts by buying an insulated loft hatch and placing draught excluding strips around the edges.


Draught-proof Windows & Doors There is no question that original period windows look fantastic but they are also notoriously draughty. If you have the original glass, it is likely to be very thin compared to today’s standards; frames may have warped letting cold air in, too. There are plenty of ways to overcome these problems without replacing them with inappropriately modern windows. There is a range of draught excluders for doors, plus complete draught-proofing sets for both internal and external doors. The simplest solution is to use a self-adhesive foam strip. Use a vinylcoated polyurethane, rubber or PVC foam strip for external doors, or just a polyurethane foam strip for internal. If the gaps in your door are irregular, a V-shaped strip will be best. Alternatively, use a sprung strip – metal or plastic – pinned to the rebates of the frame.


PALLETS:

Recycle. Upcycle.

Inspirational ideas for around the homestead.


Cost effective hay feeders....


Shelters, wood store, workshop, in the garden, and around the house...



Building with Cob

Matt and Betsy Jabs Matt and Betsy are passionate about living naturally and building a like-minded community focused on the sustainable lifestyle. You can read more about them and their work at www.diynatural.com

What is Cob House Construction? Cob house construction is an ancient building technique using lumps of earth mixed with sand, straw, and water. Cob structures can be used as homes, chicken coops, barns, and even smaller ones for ovens. Cob building is easy to learn, requires no special equipment, and uses sustainable materials. About a third of the world’s population lives in earthen homes and cob is only one type. It has been used for centuries in much of the world, but has just begun to make its way into France. .


Preparing to Build With Cob Check with local government First, you need to check with your municipality to see if it’s possible to build with cob. Some communities don’t allow “off grid” homes, which originally meant off of the electrical grid. Now in some areas it refers to any nontraditional structure. If you live in a rural area, you are more likely to be allowed to build this type of home. Choose land and draw up plans You’ll need a plot of land with a relatively flat spot for the home, if that’s what you are going to build. Once a spot is chosen, plans for the structure will need to be drawn up. The cool thing about cob is that it lends itself to organic shapes. Since you aren’t using a linear building material (like lumber), many cob homes are made with curves, bumps, and flowing lines. The roof can be constructed the same way and many are made with a flowing roof. Some are built with moss in the roof and some with a tarp-type fabric for more of a teepee effect. Whatever you do, just be sure it’s right for your climate. Prep the building site Once you have your plan, walk over your proposed site. Are there dips that need to be filled in or hills that need to be moved? Of course, with cob, you can make uneven floors, but walking on them may be difficult. Compress the land using a roller device, and make sure you don’t have soft areas that can sink in later. Once the building site is compressed, cover the area with a layer of sand. This will fill any areas that might be uneven and provide a nice flat surface. Foundations First With cob construction, a poured concrete foundation can be used or you can form a cob floor. Another great thing about cob is that it’s very durable once dried. It can be walked on repeatedly without damage. Want a non-skid floor? Sprinkle some sand on top and seal it. Want a different color? Paint it! You can also use concrete color when you mix the cob.

Once you have your foundation down, it’s best to wait until it’s completely dry before walking on it to avoid damage. Mixing the Cob With the foundation down, it’s time to start mixing cob for your walls. On a large tarp, dump about 2 parts clay to 1 part sand. Wet this down a little and stomp on it. Yes, use your feet. Mud boots are optional, but I like bare feet so I can feel what’s happening. Once it’s all mixed, add a thin layer of straw, using the longest pieces. Work it in and add some more. If you roll the tarp around, the mix shouldn’t stick when it’s ready. Add more straw until it forms a ball that doesn’t flatten out when dropped. Building the Walls Once the cob is mixed, walls can be formed. Form lumps with the cob and add a handful at a time, smoothing it out as you go. Cob should not be slapped on, as this will draw moisture out of the walls. You want it to cure naturally. Be sure to keep the sides straight so they do not become thinner at the top and take on a pyramid shape. I use a ruler cut to the width of the walls I want to make. As new layers are added, poke some holes into the top. Then, when the next layer is added, sink the bottom of it into the holes for more stability. You can also add rebar or bamboo poles if it’s a smaller structure. If you are incorporating electricity, lay out metal conduit where you want it and work it into the walls as you go. The same can be done with plumbing. You can work on the cob for months before you are done, or have a cob building party and invite many hands to help. The best thing is to do about a foot a day, then work on another foot the next day. Unlike concrete, you can add wet cob on top of dried cob. Joining concrete to dried concrete never bonds to each other, but cob will.


Windows and Doors You’ll want to form your doorway with a door frame. Build the cob around it to secure. You can sink 2x4s right into the cob. Will the wet mud destroy the wood? Nope, it will dry out and the wood will be fine. For windows, sink a 2×4 (or whatever you are using) into the cob and build around the window frame. You can use prehung doors and windows or make your own. Interesting Additions This is your home, so do what you want. I once saw a cob house built with the ends of wine bottles facing outside. The result was beautiful colors and more light in the home. Rocks built into the walls can add visual interest. Want a bookcase? Build in nooks and crannies to house your books. Want a wood burning stove? Why not build it right into the wall? And stairs…I have seen wonderful homes that have railings of logs built right into the stairs. You can choose for the stairs to curve or be straight and become a part of the wall. Finishing Touches When you get to the top of each wall, you can form a roof with wooden logs, poles, or beams. Then you can

devise a tin roof, tarp, mud, or even solar panels. The choice is up to you. When it’s all done, you can paint the outside and inside if you like. For the most part, your cob structure will be weatherproof and won’t break down when it gets wet. However, constant beating on by rain may erode the surface, so you may need to re-cover the outside every 10 years or so. Insects won’t be interested and fire won’t bother it. The home will be relatively cool in the summer and warm in the winter. If you live where the winter temperatures are cold, consider adding a layer of insulation to the center as you build the walls. I saw one man build cob pallet homes and use plastic for insulation. He stuffed the pallets with inert plastics (like styrafoam and plastic bags that can’t be recycled) and then he formed cob over that. The plastic wasn’t exposed to anything or anyone, so there was no chance of leaching into the environment. It then served as insulation.

Happy Cobbing!


How to Buy the Right Wood Stove? “Before enlightenment; chop wood, carry water. After enlightenment; chop wood, carry water.” Zen Proverb

The size of a wood-burning stove is usually given by its heat output in kilowatts (kW). The figure you’ll see displayed prominently in relation to a stove is the maximum heat output of which it’s capable. These figures are dependent on operating the stove at full capacity and efficiency. They are neither 100% accurate, nor uniform between different manufacturers, but they do provide a helpful guide when comparing different stoves. Most wood-burning stoves manufacturers tend to start their range with a 4kW to 5kW entry model. These small stoves are mainly intended for use in cabins, boats and compact rooms. The next group of stoves tend to be between 6kW and 10kW in size and are usually suitable for average sized rooms. Anything above 10kW and you’re looking at a sizeable wood-burning stove capable of heating a fairly large space. Pellet vs wood: Pellet stoves are more efficient and have fewer particle emissions than their wood-burning stove brethren, but they aren’t a perfect solution. Many pellet stoves require electricity, taking them out of service when the power goes out, and pellets and other fuel can be hard to find in all areas. On the other hand, wood stoves burn fuel that is plentiful, and can create heat without electricity.


Pellet stoves: Pros Pellet stoves are very efficient -- 75 percent to 90 percent overall efficiency -- and have a BTU output content four to five times higher than cord wood or wood chips. Pellet stoves also have very low particulate emissions; 50 times less than older, non-EPA certified wood stoves, and two to five times lower than more efficient, EPA-certified woodstoves. If you’re looking for a new stove, pellet stoves can be a good option for those without a fireplace or chimney, because they can often be vented through a small hole in the wall, rather than a whole chimney. Pellets themselves are also often made from sawdust and other small wood particles which are byproducts of wood milling, and might otherwise be headed for the landfill. Pellet stoves: Cons: Most pellet stoves require electricity - about 100 kilowatt-hours per month - which adds about 171 pounds of carbon dioxide to the atmosphere, on average (it depends on your source of electricity, of course). That also means that if the power goes out, your pellet stove does, too, though some have battery backup to help keep them going. Pellet stoves also require pellets -- homeowners who use a pellet appliance as a main source of heat use two to three tons of pellet fuel per year, on average -- and, though they’re becoming more available, having a reliable source of pellets is essential. Wood burning stoves: Pros: When harvested and managed responsibly (from a sustainablyharvested source, or when trees are blown over in the wind, killed by beetles, etc.), using wood for heat can be an entirely renewable resource. Cord wood tends to be easier to come by than pellets, and wood stoves don’t require electricity, so wood stoves can provide heat when the power goes out. Wood burning stoves: Cons Wood stoves aren’t as efficient as pellet stoves -- the most efficient wood stoves top out at about the low end for pellet stove efficiency -- and well-seasoned (or dried) cord wood has about two or three times more moisture than pellets. What factors should affect the size of wood-burning stove you buy? The ultimate defining factor when deciding what size of woodburning stove to buy is the size of space that you need to heat. The size of heat output you choose should correspond to the size of room in which the stove will be installed. The larger the space, the higher the kw rating required. Whats it down to? Basically an availability of the fuel source!


La Richardière Farm Gîtes and Alpaca Breeder

Three farm cottages on working smallholding with self-contained accommodation for 2 to 5 people, set near a sleepy village deep in the Normandy countryside but close to historic and beautiful sites of interest in Normandy, Brittany and Pays de la Loire. Situated in five acres of land with plenty of room for the children to play or to help with the animals, this peaceful spot also boasts a wide biodiversity of local wildlife and beautiful countryside views. www.normandyfarmgites.co.uk

Beautiful, healthy Huacaya crias are bred from excellent bloodlines. They produce good quality, fluffy fleece and make excellent breeders or pets. www.normandyalpacas.com Alex Barr and John Key, La Haute Richardière, 61350 SaintSiméon, Orne, Normandy Tel. 0033 (0)2 33 30 89 04 email. key.john@wanadoo.fr


The Fosse Septique Solution You are finally living the dream in France and then you encounter the Fosse…..Oh-La-La Finally we have a simple solution to resolving all those fosse septique challenges and it is ecological and efficient. Eco Tabs have launched in Europe and France is the first country to have the distribution in place to make it accessible to all of our rural homes. What are eco-tabs? eco-tabs is the solution to all your septic tank challenges. Either as a tablet or powder form, our products are 100% natural and environmentally friendly. How are they applied? eco-tabs can either be applied directly into the tank or if it is inaccessible, they can be flushed down the internal loos. The powder is applied into the kitchen sink, shower drain or wash basin, if there are any odours or organic buildup.

What are the benefits of using eco-tabs? There are many. Firstly we are more cost effective. To clean out a 3000l tank, with 4 occupants in the house which was last emptied 4 years ago costs €89 (incl. TVA, post and packaging). A normal pump out cost start from €120 up to €250. Secondly, eco-tabs also remove those ghastly odours which emanate from the fosse. With a traditional emptying of the fosse, old sludge can be left behind which is the source of the odour. eco-tabs degrade the old sludge and hence the odours disappear. Application of eco-tabs will also assist in cleaning your sand filter of sludge buildup which normally causes a “Spongy” feel to your garden. The revolutionary eco-tabs formula combines naturally occurring bacteria already found in the environment with our Microdot Separation Technology. This highly oxygenates the water eliminating odour causing bacteria and stimulates the germination of the effective bacteria needed clear the fosse. No more whiffy fosse! Then, when using the maintenance package to prevent sludge build up, eco-tabs will also clean the piping between the toilets and the fosse. This prevents unwanted odours and blockages. Also, getting a pump truck out to small holdings, farms and remote rural areas is difficult and costly. Using eco-tabs is the simple solution.

Why are eco-tabs so different? Fosse septique products on the market are primarily ENZYME based, with some bacteria. These enzymes break the sludge up for it to reform at a later stage. So you still need to pump out your fosse, when using these products. eco-tabs are purely bacteria based which means the sludge is degraded or eaten away by these naturally occurring, safe bacteria. So there is no need to pump out the fosse. Nature’s Way!

eco-tabs is environmentally friendly. There are only naturally occurring, safe bacteria and non-toxic ingredients in the product. Safe to Handle and Easy to Store. Where are you based? My husband Tim and I are South Africans who moved to France in 2007. We lived in the Charente for 3 years and during that time saw (and smelt) a need for an ecological and economical septic tank treatment. We now live near Lake Annecy and have secured the Distribution Rights for eco-tabs across France and the rest of Europe. Our business is expanding and we are also looking for dynamic people to become agents of our product, to be represented in the local communities. How do we order? The easiest way is to visit our site at www.eco-tabs.biz There is a brief questionnaire to fill in so that we can personally ensure we are sending the correct products to you. Further information is also available on the website. Alternatively you can contact us by email or phone: info@eco-tabs.biz or call Shelly on 06 35 95 45 93


www.eco-tabs.biz

info@eco-tabs.biz

or call shelly on 06 35 95 45 93


The Farm Gate In this issue of

The Farm Gate our special features include herbal remedies for livestock, managing your winter wood supply, Autumn harvest and Autumn in the veg garden.

1. Herbal Remedies for Livestock 2. Sourcing Low Cost, High Quality Feed 3. Land Management: Winter Wood Supply 4. Autumn Harvest! Pickling & Preserving! 5. Autumn in the Veg Garden 6. Tool of the month 7. Breeder’s Directory


Meet Our Panel of Farm Gate Contributors...

Tamsin Cooper learned about goats by volunteering at the UK’s largest goat sanctuary,

Buttercups, in Maidstone, Kent. Then moving to Mayenne in north-west France, she and her partner set up their own dairy herd, laying flock and vegetable garden with the aim of selfsufficiency in food, studying farm animal behaviour and smallholding methods, while supporting themselves by working online and teaching English.

Fiona Prendergast lives in the Gers in South West France and has been a keen rider since childhood. She didn’t realise her dream of having her own horse until her twenties but it was worth the wait! She has had the privilege to ride and look after her own and other people’s horses in the fifteen years since. Nicholas Russell

holds a Diploma in Agriculture and has worked as stockman with 200 Limousin cows. He and his wife now own a smallholding in SW France where they breed Ouessant sheep.

Samantha Perry

is passionate about poultry and operates a successful smallholding with a flock of 50 birds.

Lorraine Jones, owner

and operator of The Perfect Pig Company specializing in breeding and raising high welfare rare breed pigs.

Pauline Woehrle is our French Dairy Consultant. After a master degree in sustainable agriculture and a childhood spent on her parents’ smallholding, Pauline is now an organic dairy farmer advisor in a consultancy. Alongside this job, she’s running “Ma ferme à la campagne”, a smallholder’s consultancy. She lives on her own little farm in Brittany with angora goats, chickens, a horse, a cat...and a partner! Nigel & Ginny Cobb

Nigel and Ginny have been breeding and supplying alpacas for 15 years in the UK, Spain and now France. Ginny has an extensive background in animal husbandry and while located in Spain she worked with the Spanish Alpaca Society, where she was responsible for Health and Welfare for all Alpaca herds across Spain. Here in France Ginny’s focus is on educating Alpaca owners across Europe in terms of health, welfare and husbandry practices through workshops and training sessions. Nigel has been on the board of The British Alpaca Society and when in Spain was the President of The Spanish Alpaca Society and recently gave a presentation at the World Alpaca Congress 2010. Nigel was also a committee member of the British Alpaca Society and is now a Committee member of Alpaga Developpement, one of the two main alpaca Associations in France.

Karl Boken and his family escaped

the rat-race several years ago to a rural retreat in the Creuse region of France. They keep poultry, pigs and sheep and are avid beekeepers and thouroughly enjoy the French country life.


Herbal Remedies for Livestock Researched by Tamsin Cooper

Scientists Investigate Use of Herbal Wormers Herbal remedies such as yarrow, wormwood, black cumin, pumpkin seed, onion combined with coconut, and fine-leaved fumitory show promising effects as wormers when studied by scientists. Meadow plants containing high tannin such as bird’s foot trefoil, chicory, sainfoin and sulla increase resistance to internal parasites. Adequate protein in the diet and a mineral lick have also be shown to promote the immune system. Over the last ten years, scientists have been studying the performance of herbal remedies as wormers in sheep and goats. Dr Lilia Grosso of the University of Milan reviewed and compared these studies in 2014 before launching her own research. Dr Grosso found that yarrow, wormwood and related species Artemisia brevifolia, black cumin, acajou, tobacco and ivy berries had all proven effective in eliminating roundworms or reducing egg count in sheep. Since ivy berries and tobacco are known to be poisonous to livestock, more research is required before trying this at home. Similarly, feed wormwood in moderation and seek professional advice on quantities. Garlic, ginger and the seeds of coriander, neem, pumpkin and butternut squash had also shown a positive effect. Coconut and dried onion had worked well together to eliminate both roundworms and tapeworms. The star performer was fine-leaved fumitory, being as efficient as conventional medical products in one study in sheep. This plant acts against the two most common roundworms in ruminants as well as whipworm in dogs and pigs. Results were less clear in goats: ironbark, chinaberry

and papaya seeds had shown promise, but pumpkin seeds gave conflicting results. Together with colleagues from the university, Dr Grosso carried out two on-farm studies of the effects of ground pumpkin seeds and a commercially available product containing thistle, gentian, nettle and eucalyptus. The farm was short on pasture so worm burden was high. Despite lack of success in reducing egg count, Dr Grosso noticed the treated goats were still healthy despite the high worm burden. Whereas faecal egg count is a clear measure of worm burden and a traditional method for measuring drug effectiveness, the fact that the treated goats remained in good shape suggests these plants may work by helping to stimulate the immune system, rather than significantly impacting parasite spread. Accordingly, Dr Grosso urges a holistic approach to further investigations. In her paper, Dr Grosso stresses the importance of good pasture management and rotation to minimize exposure to parasites. Keeping stock density low and putting young animals on fresh pastures will also reduce exposure. Repeated and frequent use of pharmaceutical wormers can lead to resistant parasites and damage the ecological balance of the pasture. So it is important to find more natural alternatives. This issue has given rise the recent scientific interest in herbal remedies and research is being actively encouraged in the scientific community. We may not be able to do without our pharmaceutical products yet, but it’s good to know that studies are continuing and some natural remedies are producing positive results. In the meantime, we can try to strike a healthy balance by limiting stock numbers, rotating pastures, limiting drug use to necessity, growing beneficial plants and supplementing feed with some of these tried and tested health aids.


WORMWOOD

BLACK CUMIN

YARROW


Sourcing Low Cost,High Quality Feed For Your Livestock

By Pauline Woehrle

To get good quality and a good bargain is not always easy and smallholders are always struggling to keep the purse’s strings in tight control ! Far from thinking that manufactured food is not top quality I think that with some efforts and less money we cant get great stuff for striking prices ! So, how is it possible ? First of all make contact with your closest farmers (arable and breeders) and ask them if they can sell you some of their harvest. One example, I feed my goats and horse with afalfa pellets (« bouchons de luzerne »). Usually I buy them from a farmer but last year it wasn’t possible and I had to get it from the local retailer. The price was multiplied by ten ! Afalfa is harvested two to four times a year and is mainly cultivated in the Centre Val de Loire and Marne areas. In pellets or in fiber(« luzerne fibres longues ») if you get it from a farmer it will cost you around 175€ per ton (about 4.35€ per 25kg bag). If you get it from the shop it’s an average of 10€ per 25kg bag !! Your local farmer can potentially supply an array of cereals (barley, wheat, corn, oat…) and some interesting stuff like afalfa or rapeseed to fatten your lambs. Generally you’ll cut your prices by half. Farmers sometimes have difficulties to name their price, to get an idea of the cost before asking, you can check current prices on : http://www.lafranceagricole.fr/cours-et-marches-agricoles-9.html . It gives you a fair idea ! For horsey people I advise to always buy the cattle food rather than the pricey « special horses » bags. When you buy special horse’s afalfa you will find there is added oil or molasses whereas if you buy « bouchons de luzerne » you only get pure dried afalfa and you know exactly what is in your feed. As for licking minerals for cattle, sheep and goat you can get those in big 25kg bags from the shop and you’ll save a lot of money. If 25kg are a bit much for your little herd or flock ask your friends or neighbour. You can even ask your local farmer if he raises the same animals. Buying locally and directly will give you the opportunity to get good ingredients for your animals while cutting prices. If you would like more advice regarding livestock feed please don’t hesitate and send me a mail at: pauline@mafermealacampagne.fr


Smallholder courses & Friendly advice for smallholders in France Training courses

Sheep, goats, cattle, horses, hens & ducks Land management Smallholder’s natural pharmacy… …And many others For beginners and Advanced In group or for individual

Consultancy

Land management Rural properties evaluation French rural and farming legislation Horse’s ration Smallholders’ animal ration We help you find the right animals for your smallholding

Call Pauline  06 08 02 85 91  pauline@mafermealacampagne.fr

Based in Brittany and Centre Val de Loire. French and English spoken


Land Management: Winter Wood Supply By Jason Bamber If you are reading this now and have not already prepared a pile of wood for winter, then you will fit into one of the following categories: late - wood buyer, rich - wood buyer, Ash/Beech bum - green wood burner. If you are already well stocked with seasoned firewood, relax, sit back and gloat. But, in so doing, expect visitors on really cold days who will make any excuse to drop by for coffee and prime position in front of your firebox. For those who have qualified in the first list, you still have options: Collect fallen wood, you will be very surprised how far you can burn your way through a cold season with just what can be found. It may need some surface drying but is often able to be used as-is if put into an already burning firebox. Collect or harvest woods that can be burned green, you may struggle to get the first fire lit but once burning it will allow you to dry the other pieces placed around the box. Move to your summer house. All the preparation in the world can still be thwarted by a longer-than-usual cold period, you may run out before the need to burn has come to an end. So source an emergency supply while you still have good weather. You can still get a decent amount of seasoning done if you add a little more effort. If you rotate your pile of split wood while the weather is cycling between rainy and dry days, then you can use that cycle to expel saps and arrive at a wood that will work even though not perfect. Perfect wood for fireboxes is a rare thing if you are not focusing on it and dedicating a great deal of time and effort to building a pile with the future in mind. You can begin at any time and in any conditions, duration is the

only consideration if you have the right wood. Follow a few simple guidelines to begin with and you will keep the home fires burning. Whenever possible, split green or get mean! Dry or seasoned wood without a straight grain will be tough to split if at all. Collect with three levels or types in mind : Starter wood/Kindling Day fires Over-night logs Kindling needs to be something that will light easily and burn long enough to start your firewood burning. If you have well-seasoned and easy to light wood then your kindling may be nothing more than a twisted page of newspaper or a paraffin starter briquette. Use a small/medium/large mentality to build a fire that will catch and burn well without the need to pull out smoldering logs and reset the process while fumigating your home. Day fires may just require a good burn to take off the chill of a cold autumn morning or set back the chill of evening until you are under the duvet. You may also be in the season where you need constant heat throughout the day, feed the box according to your needs. Over-night burning is hallowed ground, the right wood and the right box will allow you to get your 40-winks without needing to wake up and stoke the fire.


In any case, there are about 100-200 instances where you should use the word “safety”, I will be brief and list but a few: • • • •

If you are ever in any doubt as to the state of your box or chimney, check it! If you cannot remember when you last had your chimney swept or serviced, do it! If you can’t operate the vent or door handle, chuck it! If you can’t tell between wet, dry and seasoned, forget it!

Here is a quick guide to the top five burning woods: Ash - Reckoned by many to be one of best woods for burning, it produces a steady flame and good heat output. It can be burnt when green but like all woods, it burns best when dry. Beech - Burns very much like ash, but does not burn well when green. Thorn - Is one of the best woods for burning. It produces a steady flame and very good heat output, and produces very little smoke. Yew - A good burning wood as it has a slow burn, and produces a very good heat output. Eucalyptus - Is a fast burning wood. Best burned wellseasoned.


Autumn Harvest! Pickling & Preserving.

Preserving Pumpkins Pumpkin and other winter squashes will keep for months if stored properly. But sometimes it is advantageous to freeze or can them so that they are easier to use later on. Winter squash puree freezes beautifully, Small chunks or cubes of butternut or other winter squashes may be immersed in liquid and pressure canned. It also dehydrates well. Here are the details on the three best methods for preserving pumpkin, butternut and other winter squashes. Storing Whole Winter Squash Left unpeeled, whole winter squash can keep at room temperature for at least 3 months. However, sometimes spots of mold occur that soften the outer layer and ultimately spoil the squash. To prevent mold spots, commercial growers sometimes wax the outsides of winter squashes. If you are going to store unwaxed winter squashes, you can achieve the same effect by oil buffing them. To oil buff winter squashes, first wash them thoroughly to remove any dirt. Dry them completely (it is important that the surface of the squash be completely dry to prevent mold). Put a small amount of vegetable oil on a paper or clean cloth towel. Rub the oil all over the surface of the squash, buffing off any excess oil. The squash should be just barely shiny and not greasy to the touch.

Be sure to work the oil into the crevices of scallopshaped squashes such as acorn and delicata varieties. Freezing Winter Squash Cooked and frozen pumpkin and butternut squash purees are ready to use in pies, soups, muffins and other dishes. If you’ve ever tried to make pumpkin pie from scratch and been disappointed in the watery results, here are two tips that will ensure your homemade version is even better than the stuff out of a can: 1. roast the pumpkin rather than boiling or steaming it. 2. seek out varieties of pumpkin that are denser and have a lower water content such as butternut. To freeze pumpkin or other winter squash, first cut the squash in half and scoop out the seeds. Place the squash halves cut side down in a baking dish and pour in 1/2inch of water. Bake in a 400F oven until the flesh of the squash is completely cooked (the peels will be starting to show a few brown spots). This will take 40 minutes to 1 hour. Let the squash cool for 10 minutes. Scoop out the cooked flesh with a spoon. At this point you can freeze the cooked squash as is or you can puree it first, either in the food processor or by mashing thoroughly with a potato masher. Pack the cooked squash into freezer bags and store the bags horizontally for the most efficient use of freezer space.


Dehydrating Winter Squash Dehydrated pumpkin and other winter squash works well for soups. I find it less successful for pies and other recipes. The advantages of using this preservation method are the light weight and little storage space required, plus the final product will keep indefinitely if stored away from direct light and heat. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Peel and seed the squash. Cut into pieces 1/4-inch thick and 1 to 2 inches long. Blanch the squash in the boiling water for 3 minutes. Drain. Spread on dehydrator trays leaving space between the pieces so that air can circulate around them. Dry at 125F until brittle. Store in airtight containers away from direct light or heat. To use, pour boiling hot water over the dehydrated squash pieces and let steep for 15 minutes before draining and proceeding with your recipe (save the soaking liquid to use in soups). Canning Pumpkin Two important food safety notes: 1. You must pressure can pumpkin and other winter squash. Boiling water bath canning is not a safe method for unsweetened, unpickled squash. 2. It is not safe to home-can pureed pumpkin and winter squash because of their density. You need to do chunks. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Peel and seed the squash. Cut into 1-inch chunks. Blanch the squash chunks in the boiling water for 2 minutes. Remove the blanched squash with a slotted spoon and transfer to clean pint or quart canning jars (it is not necessary to sterilize the jars for this recipe). Add 2 teaspoons per pint or 1 tablespoon per quart of lemon juice to each jar. Pour the blanching liquid over the squash and lemon juice. The squash should be be completely immersed in the liquid, but there should still be 1/2-inch head space in each jar. Screw on canning lids. Pressure can at 10 pounds pressure, 55 minutes for pint jars, 90 minutes for quarts (adjust the times if necessary for high altitude canning).


Pumpkin Salsa it’s absolutely gorgeous tasting! Serve it with pork, chicken or simply with tortilla chips. Ingredients • 1 Tbls Olive Oil • 2 medium Tomatoes, chopped • 1 small Onion, chopped • 2 Garlic cloves, minced • 1 (25 oz) can of whole peeled Tomatoes, drained and chopped. I use Cento • 1 (15 oz) can of Pumpkin Puree • ½ tsp Salt • 1 tsp Sugar • 3 Tbls, chopped (from the jar) Jalapenos • 1 tsp Cinnamon

• •

½ tsp Pumpkin Pie Spice ½ - 1 tsp Crushed Red Pepper Chili flakes, or to taste

Instructions In a saute pan, heat Olive Oil over medium heat. Add chopped fresh Tomatoes, Onions and Garlic and saute until onions start to turn translucent. Add in the drained, chopped (canned) Tomatoes, Pumpkin puree, Salt, Sugar, chopped Jalapenos and remaining spices. Cook for 8 - 10 minutes. Set aside to cool. Store in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.


Pumpkin and Carrot Soup with Crispy Pancetta and Fried Sage Note. This soup can be made in advance if needed. It always tastes better the next day too (keep leftovers in the fridge). Ingredients Serves 6 2 lbs / 900 gr pumpkin, peeled, deseeded, cut into ½-inch pieces 1 lbs / 453 gr carrots, peeled, cut into ½-inch pieces 4 tablespoons olive oil 2 medium onions, chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tablespoon mustard seeds 2 teaspoons ground coriander 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon ground turmeric 4 cups / 1 lt vegetable stock 2 cups / 500 ml water Salt and pepper to taste 6 oz. / 170 gr pancetta, diced (if you can’t find pancetta, use good-quality bacon) Handful sage leaves Directions Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C) and place a rack in the middle. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Place pumpkin and carrot pieces on the lined baking sheet. Drizzle over 2 tablespoons of oil and toss to coat. Roast for 30-35 minutes or until golden and tender. In the meantime, heat remaining two tablespoons of olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion, a pinch of salt and cook, stirring every now and then for 15 minutes, until soft and translucent. Add garlic, mustard seeds. coriander, cumin and turmeric. Cook for 2 minutes, until fragrant (and mustard seeds start to pop). Add roasted pumpkin and carrot pieces and give a good stir. Add vegetable stock, water, and bring to a boil.

Reduce to a simmer, cover with a lid and cook for 15 to 20 minutes. Turn off the heat and let cool for 15 minutes. Using an immersion blender, puree the soup until smooth (alternatively transfer the pumpkin mixture in batches to the jug of a blender). Adjust the seasonings with salt and pepper. Add more stock if needed to reach the desired consistency. Before serving, in a nonstick fry pan over medium heat, cook the pancetta, stirring occasionally, until the fat has rendered and the pancetta is browned and crispy, 8 to 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pancetta to a paper towel-lined plate. Set aside. Add sage leaves to the frying pan and fry in the rendered pancetta fat for 1 minute, until crispy. Transfer the fried sage pancetta to the paper towel-lined plate. Divide soup among soup bowl, top with pancetta, fried sage and serve.


Preserving Apples Keep apples cool after picking to increase shelf life. A cool basement is ideal, but the fruit/vegetable drawer of a refrigerator will work, too. Kept cool, fresh-picked apples will generally keep weeks, but it DOES depend on the variety. Red and Yellow Delicious apples do not keep well, for example; but Rome, do! High humidity helps to to keep the apples from shriveling, but don’t let them get actually wet. A wet towel placed nearby helps to keep the humidity up. A refrigerator is fine for small quantities of apples. Boxed apples need to be kept in a cool, dark spot where they won’t freeze. Freezing ruptures all of an apple’s cells, turning it into one large bruise overnight. The usual solution is to store apples in a root cellar. But root cellars often have potatoes in them: apples and potatoes should never be stored in the same room because, as they age, potatoes release an otherwise ethylene gas, which makes apples spoil faster. If you can keep the gas away from your apples, they will keep just fine. Just don’t store them right next to potatoes. Prevent contact between apples stored for the winter by wrapping them individually in sheets of newspaper. The easiest way to do this is to unfold a section of newspaper all the way and tear it into quarters. Then stack the wrapped apples. Spiced apples Ingredients 8 Granny Smith apples 2 tablespoons white sugar 1 teaspoon lemon juice 1/4 cup cinnamon red hot candies Directions Peel, core, and slice apples. Place all ingredients in microwave-safe bowl. Microwave on high for 15 minutes, stirring each 5 minutes. Cover with plastic wrap and let cool or serve warm.

Spiced apple warmer Ingredients 1l apple juice strips of orange peel 1 cinnamon stick, plus extra to garnish, if you like 3 cloves sugar or honey, to taste Directions Simmer the apple juice with the strips of orange peel, cinnamon stick and cloves for about 5-10 mins until all the flavours have infused. Sweeten to taste. Serve each drink with a little orange peel and a piece of cinnamon stick, if you like.


Spiced apple sauce Ingredients 4 Gala apples (620g or 1.36 lb weight it prior to peeling and coring) peeled, cored and evenly chopped 1 whole cinnamon stick 1/ 4 cup or 40 g brown sugar, more if desired* small pinch of salt Ÿ tsp ground cardamom small pinch ground ginger ½ tsp fresh squeezed lemon juice small piece of lemon peel ž cup or 200 ml water To serve, optional toppings spiced pecans

dollop of greek yogurt raisins Instructions Place the apple pieces and all remaining ingredients in a pot. Cover and allow to come to a boil over medium heat. Uncover to allow most of the liquid to evaporate and the apples to break down. After 10 minutes use a potato masher to further break down the apples to desired consistency. Continue to simmer until nearly all of the liquid has evaporated. Remove the cinnamon stick or leave if desired. Allow to cool before storing, or serving. Can also be enjoyed warm as a sweet autumn treat.


Autumn in the veg garden Autumn is just as important as spring and it’s a key time to prepare and get ahead for the next growing season. Late sowing In September the ground is still warm enough for seeds to germinate quickly and with longer summers in some areas, the growing season often continues for a few bonus weeks. So it’s a good time to try some late sowings. There’s a good range of crops that can be sown right through to the end of the month and some even later. Crops to try: Leafy vegetables Decreasing light levels mean late sown vegetables won’t flower and fruit, but leafy crops can put on plenty of growth in the time remaining. Leaf varieties to sow outdoors include: pak choi (tatsoi) varieties, mizuna, winter cress, spicy oriental salad mixes and spinach varieties such as ‘Giant Winter’. These should germinate quickly and give you plenty of supply for stir fries, soups and leafy salads through to the first frosts. If you have a greenhouse you can sow winter lettuce varieties under glass. ‘Winter Density’ is one of the most popular and produces lovely tender hearts of lettuce through the cold months. Broad beans and peas Early sowings of broad beans and peas can be carried out from late September through to mid November. The advantage of sowing early is that plants can establish over the winter and flower and fruit earlier. Many plants are able to withstand quite harsh conditions; however you may need to fleece young plants during hard frosts or snowy conditions. ‘Super Aguadulce’ and ‘Aguadulce

Claudia’ are two broad bean varieties that suit early sowings. ‘Feltham First’ is the most popular pea for early sowings. Garlic Garlic can be planted from the autumn right through into February, providing the ground is not too hard or waterlogged. Christmas potatoes If you plant seed potatoes in September in a pot, you can grow a crop to serve with your festive turkey. The plants need to establish before the first frosts when they should be brought indoors to a sheltered spot. Keep watering and earthing up until December and dig up your crop of new potatoes on Christmas Eve. Soil preparation This is key to getting your vegetable garden ready for spring and replenishing the nutrients in your soil at the end of the growing season. If you have taken on a new allotment or are planning to start a vegetable garden next year, cover soil and weeds with black plastic or carpet through the winter months. This will suppress any growth and kill off remaining weeds. Alternatively, if your beds are clear, sow green manure of mustard seed or clover. This will keep free-ranging weed growth at bay and give you a nutritious crop to dig back in and enrich your soil. Autumn is also a good time to add farmyard manure to bare soil. As long as you have no active growth in your beds, the manure doesn’t have to be quite so wellrotted down. Spread a thick layer over beds to act as a deterrent to weeds while the winter frosts and snow break it down. When spring comes round, you will be ready to dig over your beds and start planting your new crops into weedfree, fertile soil.



Tool of the Month Written by Jason Bamber

Wood Harvesting Tools

There are many schools of thought on what kind of tools are available and what their uses are. The chainsaw is the go-to tool for most anyone who hears about harvesting wood, close second are handsaws. Here are a few points that most people overlook or don’t even know: Chainsaws generally work best on green wood, they are for dropping a tree or sectioning one that has fallen. Some are designed with only that purpose in mind, some others with preparation of seasoned wood. The chain blade comes in many types for many uses. You need to know what you intend to cut with it before buying one, you will need tools to maintain it in optimum cutting condition. Some handsaws, like chainsaws, have a single purpose. If used in any other way than that intended purpose you will experience either a poor result or none at all. Power governs length, if you have a long chain & bar or long blade, then you will need power to propel it. You can rarely scale up and in a lot of case you cannot scale down too far either. A 45 inch bar on a light garden chainsaw will just not work on a 40 inch stump. Conversely, a deep cutting chain will not work well at a twig-lopper level. Quality reigns supreme, producers whose main focus has been wood harvesting produce better tools for the purpose. It basically boils down to not ordering sushi in a steakhouse, it is not their forte and is likely not going to be as good as you are wanting it to be. Each tool has an expert user, I can find videos of a guy wielding a buck-saw who cuts a log faster than a guy wielding a chainsaw. Do not buy something that can cut down a tree in 15 seconds by hand if you get out of breath fetching the post from the postbox and expect it to work that way for you. Wedges. Unless you like seeing a partially cut tree with a chainsaw stuck in it, look into the how’s and what’s of using wedges. Must haves for any wood harvesting; Gloves: wood splinters and you are working with sharp stuff. If you operate either a powered saw or handsaw without a gloved hand, then blisters may just be the least you have to worry about.


Glasses or face masks: As above, including braches that spring back and oils and dirt that leave the blade or chain. Sturdy work shoes: Grip, comfort and the love of playing “this little piggy…” should ensure that you pick a shoe that suits what you are doing. Do not be fooled into thinking that a steel toe capped shoe will protect your foot from something that can cut in any direction. And, trees have a tendency to weigh a lot and when they fall down can rarely just be moved without effort to free a trapped foot. Ear plugs/muffs: A chainsaw is loud, enough said. Clothing: See above. Add the fact that anything that may dangle can get caught in a spinning blade or branch. This is not restricted to clothing but also refers to toggles or cords that secure glasses or the like. Knowledge: If in any doubt as to what you are doing or what result you may get from your action, stop, you can always return to cut a log but you can rarely un-crush a foot/car/house/pet or friend. Harvesting and processing, they are usually spelled differently because they DO NOT mean the same thing. There are factors present in both that are unique to what you are doing and therefore the tools used to complete the work. Dry is not seasoned, wet is not green. As such, select a tool for the job and try not to use the tool because it could do the job, a rock can be used to hammer in a nail but it is far from the perfect tool for that job. Here are a few examples of the right and wrong tools for the job: A narrow tooth saw on green wood will foul and clog the teeth. A deep cutting saw blade will not stand up to hard seasoned wood. A maul will split far better than a felling axe. A face mask used when chain sawing seasoned wood works better than glasses alone. A Croc® barely makes it as a shoe let alone a suitable one for harvesting wood

Happy tree hunting!


Breeder’s Directory

If you would like to be included in our Breeder Directory please send us an email or give us a call. This service is free of charge and open to breeders from all over France.

Alpacas:

Normandy Alpacas Breeders of pure-bred Huacaya Alpacas. www.normandyalpacas.com

Goats:

Elevage d’animaux de ferme et compagnie en Bretagne France www.ecoferme.com

Europa alpacas Awardwinning Alpaca breeder. www.europaalpacas.com

Chevrettes de France www.chevrettes-de-france.com

Farrlacey Alpacas www.farrlacey.eu

Pigs:

Lypiatt Alpacas www.lypiattalpacas.com

Sheep:

Ouessant Groupement des Eleveurs du Mouton d’Ouessant 3 allée des sapins verts 44880 SAUTRON 02 98 78 70 23 brillet.abbe.gemo@gmail.com SB Ouessants http://ouessants.blogspot.fr/ Friends of the Ouessant Sheep www.mouton-ouessant.com Ecoferme Elevage d’animaux de ferme et compagnie en Bretagne France www.ecoferme.com Suffolk sheep Elevage Suffolk Certifie Stéphanie & Alexandre ROLLIN www.mouton-suffolk-rollin-alexandre-stephanie.fr Vendeen sheep Vendeen breed association france www.mouton-vendeen.fr Hampshire Down Sheep Sharon Robinson Fenby - Breeders of Purebred Hampshire Down Sheep Le Coin Perdu, Le Bouin Roussines 16310 Charente tel. 0545236427

The Perfect Pig Company www.theperfectpigcompany.com

Rabbits:

www.cuniculture.info An extensive website with everything you will need including listings of breeders in France.

Poultry:

Sharon Robinson Fenby - Breeders of Rare Breed Poultry Le Coin Perdu, Le Bouin Roussines 16310 Charente tel. 0545236427

Bees:

www.apiculture-france.com https://apiculteurs.info/liste An extensive list of bee breeders


Classifieds FARM FOR SALE House , Farm and 13 hectares of land For Sale North Dept 79, Deux Sevres.France. 4 bedroom Villa style house , large lounge diner , fully fitted kitchen , large wet bathroom . With a 1 bedroomed apartment, with lounge, kitchen and shower room. Double garage. Large lawned garden. 2 private drives. Good sized farm buildings , 2 ponds, 13 hectares of grazing land. 5 mins from a small town with all amenities. Huge equestrian possibilities, small farm or large small holding. €285,000.00 contact: james.barker@wanadoo.fr

FARM GATE SALES Beef, Lamb, Veal and Christmas Poultry. The beef comes in 14-16 kg boxes, you get a mix of steaks and slower cooking cuts 10,90 euro per kg, The lamb is a half or a whole, ready for the freezer at 12.50 euro per kg. Veal is in a 5-7kg box, and is 13,30 euro per kg. We have Turkeys, Geese, Ducks and Large Chickens Available to order, for collection 22,23,24 December. All meat is to be collected from the farm. We are EARL Les Fromentaux, 10 route de Vilenne, Celon. J19 5 mins off the A20. Tel: 02 54 25 34 73. Email: jrmanning.12@btinternet.com.

CHILDREN’S BOOKS by Susan Keefe I have four children’s books out now, which are about pet and farm animals and their care, available in paperback and kindle formats. I have another book which will be released this month “Toby’s Tails - The Christmas Kittens.” http://www.susan-keefe.com/book-reviewers-blog


Marketplace Directory Livestock Markets

LA FOIRE DES HEROLLES – the largest street market in France Les Herolles is in region 86 on the D123. It holds a market ever month on the 29th, unless the 29th falls on a Sunday then it is held the following Monday, and in February when there is no 29th it is held on the 28th instead. The market is set out in three distinct areas: - a traditional French street market where you will find fresh produce from all over France, some of it direct from the producers themselves, plus clothes, tools, ironmongery, tyres, knives, tractors, and much more. - poultry and small livestock market. It has two avenues of livestock – large producers selling professionally and usually in bulk although you can buy just one or two animals if you wish; the second is for smallholders selling surplus stock and some of these are at the market every month. Personally I prefer to buy from the smallholder as the livestock are usually in better condition. - a livestock market found at the opposite end to the poultry market. Here you will find all four legged animals except cows. There is a small car park adjoining the covered livestock area, and here pigs are sold there direct from the vehicles they arrive in. The livestock market does not start until 8:30 when a bell is rung and the chains are taken down to allow buyers in to make their trades. www.foire-des-herolles.fr


Next Issue... A sneak peak at what’s inside the next issue:

• How does your greenhouse grow? • Sheepdogs: Great companions, reliable hard workers. • Time for Tuning! Essential equipment maintenance

and much, much, more... Out December 2015!

Get In Touch... If you would like to contribute a story, personal experience or would like a question published and answered in the next issue of Rural Retreats, please contact us at editor@southwestpublications.com For advertising, paid or free listings, or to be included in our directory listings please send an email to editor@southwestpublications.com Alternatively you can always give us a call on +33 (0)6 4898 1126

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Published by South West Publications Chez Vignaud 86460 Availles Limouzine France www.southwestpublications.com


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