The Moonlit Square by Rushil Khokhar

SADAK Publishing

{This oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s for the people who light up the Moonlit Square with their humble smile and innocent hearts.

Acknowledgments This book would not have been possible without the people - the pulse of Chandni Chowk, who were hospitable and kind enough to welcome us, guide and make us a part of their hustle bustle. Their words and stories are the spine and backbone of this book. We would also like to thank our Typography faculty member, Ms. Milly for her support and feedback which helped us immensely during our journey of making this book come alive from a concept to print. A special thanks to Siddharth Chhabra for contributing as a guest photographer. His photographs have added a sense of old world charm through his vision of Jama Masjid and surrouding areas. Last but not the least, the streets of Chandni Chowk, which never fail to mesmerize and baffle us.

Contents Editorsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Note Introduction Food Places to Eat Recipes to Cook Fashion People Credits

EDITOR/LAYOUTS/PHOTOGRAPHER

{Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s impossible to ignore this place. At first you will find

yourself running miles away from the frenzy but from the moment you step out of the metro station, the frenzy becomes familiarity. Soon you will find yourself part of a gigantic jigsaw puzzle. After all, everyone has a place here. Chandni Chowk knows how to make place for you. Personally, she (Chandni) will always be my favourite model. - Praatika Mehra

COPY EDITOR/WRITER/PHOTOGRAPHER

{Chandni Chowk has gone on to become a beloved muse for me. Timeless like an old wise lady who refuses to lose her dynamism for life, Chandni Chowk carries it’s regal history, historical ruins and modern chaos with a raw elegance that is unique to itself. The magic of this place lies in its many hidden folds and corners. Every visit of mine to Chandni Chowk has led to another exploration of this ever buzzing mystery. The best aspect of The Moonlit square is that it’s beautifully Indian. Raw, chaotic, vibrant, abode to different cultures and religions, blending everything in in a way that’s perfectly flawed, all of this just adds to it’s sepia toned charm. I believe, every Indian true to it’s roots, should take a visit to this enchanting yet infuriating haven. A place where amidst all the bustling markets and delicious food, one is bound to discover a refection of their own - spirit. Rushil Khokhar

COVER PAGE/RESEARCH/PHOTOGRAPHER

{Chandni Chowk is this box of overflowing, yet well treasured traditions and culture, most importantly history. Be it the ever buzzing lanes and galis, refusing to put a stop to the madness, intermingling with each other, causing a spectrum of design, or the beautiful handicrafts that this place has to offer- The Moonlit square is a delight for anybody who visits. Spirited, chaotic, crude to the very sense of the word, this place is a boiling pot, beautifully stewing an amalgamation of religions in a way that remains unique. And that’s what sums up the timeless charm that this place has. - Sanya Goel

RESEARCH/PHOTOGRAPHER {Moment I hear the word Chandni chowk, all I can think of is FOOD! The endless lanes and streets that intermingle with each other are nothing less than an irony for the people who visit this place. The locals, the tourists, strangers to each other yet bound together by their fondness and craze for food, winding through the jumble of frenzied bazaars. Every lane has a story, an untold story. Chandni Chowk is one place where simplicity and modernity seem to survive at par. And this does not only relate to the offerings of the market but also to its visitors. People from all walks of life gather here to indulge in feasts and be knocked off their senses. These flaring businesses have not only managed to retain their essence but also move ahead with times. Here, with every bite one samples not only a delicacy but also a piece of history! - Krittika Grover

MAPS/PHOTOGRAPHER {The moment I hear the words Chandni chowk, the first thing that comes to my mind is the crowded dingy galis with clumped wires overhead! Also known as Delhi 6, Chandni Chowk is one place that dates far back in history, for its reasons. I think in todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s day thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nothing that you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t find there, from diverse crowds to the most delicious food, from wholesale to retail. To be honest Chandni chowk to me is a colourful maze! A place where you could always get lost amidst the hustle and end up exploring things you might never expect to have come across, each giving a unique and mostly an unforgettable experience! - Mehek Dudani

RESEARCH/PHOTOGRAPHER {An amalgamation of all the beautiful cultures which form the heart of our capital is what chandni chowk is all about. When I went to chandni chowk for the first time, I realized what all had I been missing on, living the urban lifestyle. It was a treat to see people walking together to visit the gurudwara and mosque without any sense of discomfort and cultural differences even though these two places are situated almost adjacent to each other. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve grown up hearing my mom talk about the designer wedding trousseau, which is available at chandni chowk at extremely cheap rates, with a variety one can never find anywhere but here. Also apart from it being distinctly diverse in terms of architecture, culture and fashion, chandni chowk has been offering a wide variety of delicacies for years now. Chandni chowk is one place, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d suggest, every Indian must visit, as it describes the true identity of the foundation of the diverse cultures that our country inherits. - Sagar Rajpal

Introduction The moonlit square. The grand bustling market with a central pool that reflected moon light, build in 17th century by the great Muslim Emperor of India, Shah Jahan, designed and loved by his favorite daughter Jahan Ara. Home to Jama Masjid, Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib, Central Baptist Church, unfurling itself between the Lao Qila (The Red Fort) and Fatehpuri Masjid. Known by many names, Haveli (a mansion), Kucha (a zone with houses), never defined by just one. Abode to religious shrines. Dynamic and ever buzzing, while retaining its centuries old glory. Ghalib’s muse. An exquisite mystery whose beauty is not obvious at the first glance, but the more you unfold the faded pages of this timeless place, more it leaves you dazzled.

”The most vintage reflection of Delhi that exists today. This is Chandni Chowk for you” Peculiarly, Chandni Chowk is one place in Delhi, where you’ll feel quite safe and comfortable. The locals are busy in their trading; the inmates are busy keeping their rusty havelis alive. The once, center of Moghul culture, way back in the 17th century, when nobility lived in havelis (giant mansions), with their palace staff, poets, elephants, and the silver merchants lining up the market, now transformed at the turn of 19th century, into the Chandni Chowk we know today. The regal homes now covered up with rusted signs and clumps of electrical wire, now hoarded by traders and businessmen selling everything from car parts to food to jewelry. A mere echo of the king’s grand market that it once was.

You venture into Chandni Chowk and the sudden sense of being transported into an era long gone, engulfs you. Walk on foot or take a slow ride in the rickshaw, indulge in the street food, recipes of which have been passed down from generations, or shop at the bazaars for authentic Indian fabrics and ethnic jewelry, visit all the religious shrines or just talk to all the locals and explore Chandni Chowk, you know you’re experiencing a splendid amalgamation of a grand India which once existed and a simpler, raw, vintage India that resides there now.

“Eat, shop, pray and fall in love with this delightful mystery that hides beneath its rusty old folds, secrets of havelis, verses of poets, pursuits of the royalty, and lives and stories of people belonging to the Mughal era” From a noisy bustling street to the calm of Jama Masjid and Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib, from the famous delicacies of Karim’s to the unknown mouth watering dishes of Paranthe Waali Gali, from Muslim kids and their sheep to the old Hindu men going about their daily drill, Chandni Chowk has it all. It’s one authentic taste of the real India. So come explore and learn Chandni Chowk through the vision of a bunch of enthusiasts.

Food

Step into Chandni Chowk and the aroma of Indian dishes being cooked, will envelop your senses. You cannot experience Chandni Chowk in its full glory without trying all the delicacies it has to offer. Be it the mutton korma from Karim’s or the 26 varieties of Paranthas from the Paranthe waali gali, the kachori chaat or the kesar kulfi, the famous Dahi Bhalla from Natraj or delicious jalebis, it’s impossible to not give in to the temptation of the various palettes Chandni Chowk has in store.

“There is no better a place to indulge into some authentic Indian street food, recipes of which have been passed down from centuries and are guarded by the owners with precious care.” Some of these eating joints have been around for over 100 years and are renowned for their excellence. The eateries are not just successful historical businesses but they have their memories and sentiments attached to Purani Dilli, which, they believe, is also why their food and recipes are going strong till date. The famous 100 years old Karim’s as well as the paanwaala sitting in the same corner for the last 30 years, and everyone else in between; each place has their roots deep into the soil of Old Delhi and that’s where they draw their spirit from. So if you have an appetite for some insanely delicious street food and you know your stomach can take it, then go through our food guide and take your pick. We’d say, try them all at least once. They’re worth every ounce of effort you’ll put in to get there!

#1 Natraj Dahi Bhalle Wala 1396, Main Road Near Central Bank, Opposite Paranthe Wali Gali, Chandni Chowk, New Delhi Timings : 10:30 AM to 11 PM Cost : Approx Rs. 150 for two

Burp Delhi 6 houses some of the best names for savoring Delhi’s infamous street food, and they’re a must try for anybody who’s visiting Chandni Chowk. We have selected the ones noteworthy, and mentioned their specialties, so that you don’t forget to try them!

Kanwarji’s 1972 To 1973, Corner Gali Opposite Central Bank, Chandni Chowk, Delhi Timings : 9 AM to 10 PM Cost : Approx Rs. 300 for two

Karim’s 16, Gali Kababian, Jama Masjid New Delhi Nearby Metro Station Chawri Bazar Metro Station Timings : 9 AM to 12:30 AM Cost : Approx Rs. 700 for two

Pt. Gaya Prasad Shiv Charan Paranthe Wale 4, Gali Paranthe Wali, Chandni Chowk, Delhi Timings : 9 AM to 11 PM Cost : Approx Rs. 150 for two

#5 Old Famous Jalebi Wala Dariba Kalan, Chandni Chowk, New Delhi Timings : 8 AM to 10 PM Cost : Approx Rs. 200 for two

#6 Shiv Misthan Bhandar 375, Kucha Ghasi Ram, Chandni Chowk, New Delhi Timings : 11 AM to 10:30 PM Cost : Approx Rs. 350 for two

#7 Jung Bahadur Kachori Wala 1104, Maliwara, Jogiwari, Chandni Chowk, Delhi Timings : 10:30 AM to 7:30 PM Cost : Approx Rs. 100

Jalebi Wallaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Secret

Recipes

{

1 cup - Refined flour (Maida) 1/2 cup - Yogurt 3 cups - Sugar 1 tbsp - Milk A pinch of Saffron Ghee for deep-frying

In a large bowl, whisk refined flour, yogurt and sufficient water to a smooth and pouring consistent batter. Cover and keep in a warm place to ferment for 24 hours. Beat the batter with your hands again for 15 minutes. Cook sugar with 2 cups water in a deep non-stick pan on high heat, stirring continuously, till the sugar dissolves. Add milk and when the scum rises to the top, collect it with a ladle and discard. Add saffron and cook, stirring, till the syrup reaches one string consistency. Keep the syrup warm. Heat sufficient ghee in a kadai on medium heat. Pour some batter onto a jalebi cloth, gather the edges and make a tight potli. Squeeze round spirals into the hot ghee and deep fry, turning them over gently a few times, till they are evenly golden and crisp. Drain and soak in sugar syrup for 2-3 minutes. Take them out of the syrup and serve hot. }

{

Karachi Halwa

In a large bowl, whisk refined flour, yogurt and sufficient water to a smooth and pouring consistency batter. Cover and keep in a warm place to ferment for 24 hours. Beat the batter with your hands again for 15 minutes. Cook sugar with 2 cups water in a deep nonstick pan on high heat, stirring continuously, till the sugar dissolves. Add milk and when the scum rises to the top, collect it with a ladle and discard. Add saffron and cook, stirring, till the syrup reaches one string consistency. Keep the syrup warm. Heat sufficient ghee in a kadai on medium heat. Pour some batter onto a jalebi cloth, gather the edges and make a tight potli. Squeeze round spirals into the hot Ghee and deep fry, turning them over gently a few times, till they are evenly golden and crisp. Drain and soak in sugar syrup for

{2-3 minutes. Take them out of the syrup and serve hot.

Cornflour-1+1/4cup Sugar-2 cups Lemon juice-1 tsp Orange essence-1or2 drops Ghee-100 grams Rose water-Few drops Almonds,finely chopped-10-12 Pistachios,finely chopped-10-12

{

Bhallas 1 Cup Urad daal Salt to taste Oil to fry

Dahi Bhalla

For Bhallas: Clean, wash and soak the daal overnight. Grind it into smooth paste. Add salt to taste. Heat oil in a pan and drop a spoonfuls of batter and fry till golden brown. Take the hot Bhallas and put in cold water for 2-3 minutes Now Take them out of water and squeeze the water and keep aside. For Dahi: Blend the curd (yogurt) and little water until it is smooth. Keep in refrigerator for an hour to get chilled. Add salt, red chili powder and cumin powder. For Serving: In a deep dish arrange bhallas and pour dahi over them. Now add imli (tamarind) chutney and green chutney. Garnish with coriander.} Dahi 1 kg Dahi (yogurt) 1/2 tsp Ginger, grated Coriander Leaves, finely chopped 1-2 Green Chilies, chopped Salt to taste 2 tsp Cumin (jeera) Powder, roasted Red Chili Powder to taste

a r a

For dough Flour - 1 cup Oil - 2 tbsp Salt - to taste Cold Water

a h t n

{

Mix well the flour, oil and salt. Add cold water to make a soft dough. Cover it for 1/2 hour. Grind fennel, coriander, cumin seeds and dry red chillies and to a coarse powder. Drain all the water from the dal. Use a tissue cloth to completely remove all water from the dal. Grind again it to a coarse powder. Mix this dal powder along with the crushed spice powder from the previous step and salt. Heat a tsp of oil in a pan. Add chopped ginger and fry for couple of seconds. Then add the dal and spice powder mix, fry for about 5 mins. Let it cool. This forms the stuffing for the kachoris. Divide the dough and stuffing into equal number of portions. Take one portion of the dough and roll into a small poori. Put the stuffing inside, bring the edges together and press and seal to form a ball. Flatten this ball using your palm to get a circular shape. Be sure not to press too hard, otherwise the stuffing gets stuck to the base of the kachori. Let this sit for 5 mins. Deep fry the kachoris in oil over a medium flame till they brown on both sides. Serve in a dish with

boiled potatoes, coriander chutney and curd or yogurt mixed with chat masala}. For stuffing Yellow Moong dal - 1/4 cupsoaked for 1/2 hr, Fennel seeds- 1tsp, Coriander seeds - 1tsp, Cumin seeds - 1/2 tsp,Ginger 1/2 tsp, chopped Dry red chilly - 2,Oil for frying

{

Naan Khatai

Maida-1 cup Powdered sugar-1 cup Ghee-1/3 cup Vanilla essence-1/2 tsp Baking powder-1/2 tsp Salt-A pinch

Rub Ghee into the maida and baking powder till grainy. Add sugar and cold water and make a dough. Roll out into long strips. Keep covered in a refrigerator for 2-3 hours. Take out. When at room temperature, cut into circles. Brush with milk. Bake at 375o F. for 20 minutes till slightly brown.}

Samosa

{Mix refined flour, carom seeds, salt and three tablespoons of olive oil in a bowl. Add

water and knead into a stiff dough. Keep it covered with a damp napkin, for ten to fifteen minutes. Heat two tablespoons of olive oil in a pan, add cumin seeds and when they start to change colour, add ginger, green chillies and potatoes. Stir and add red chilli powder, dry mango powder, garam masala powder and salt to taste. Stir well. Cover Refined flour-1 cup Carom seeds -1/2 ts Salt to taste Olive Oil

Mix the milk, cream and the cream of tartar and cover and refrigerate overnight. Make sure that milk is refrigerated in a steel bowl. Make sure that you take the milk out of the refrigerator early next day and mix half the sugar and rose water. Do not transfer the milk from the steel bowl. Whisk the milk on high speed. After some time (actually quite some time) thick foam will start accumulating on the top of the bowl. Transfer this foam to another vessel and sprinkle some powdered sugar on the foam. Continue whisking and transferring the foam till the entire milk disappears. Make sure that you are sprinkling the powdered sugar in between the layers. Refrigerate till serving time and when you serve sprinkle the pista nuts and the powdered sugar.}

{

Stuffing Potato Green peas Olive oil-2 tbpn Cumin seeds-1 teaspoon Ginger Green chillies Red chilli powder-1 tsp Dry mango powder-1 tsp Garam masala-1 tsp Salt to taste Fresh coriander leaves,chopped Tamarind chutney

{

Daulat ki C haat

Full Cream Milk-2 Liter (Preferably unboiled) Cream- 1/2 Liter Cream of Tartar- 1 Tsp Powdered Sugar- 1 Cup Rose Water- 1 Tsp Pista Nuts- 1 Tbsp (Finely Chopped)

Lassi

{Blend

{

Yogurt-2 cups Sugar-1/2 cup Ice cubes as required Milk-1/2 cup Fresh cream as required

Mutton Stew

Heat the pressure cooker and then add oil, cumin and whole spices. When they splutter add slit green chillies and chopped onions, fry until light golden in color. Now add the ginger garlic paste and fry for a few minutes. Then add the washed mutton, salt, turmeric and tomatoes, fry till the oil separates. Add three cups of water and pressure cook for few minutes till the meat is half done.

together yogurt and sugar for two minutes in a mixer/ blender. Add ice cubes and blend for a minute more. If the mixture is too thick add a little milk and adjust consistency and blend once more. Pour into serving glasses from a height so as to form a foam. Top with malai and serve chilled.

Mint leaves few Coriander leaves 2 tbsp Coconut powder 1 cup Salt to taste Oil 1/4 cup Potatoes 2 (cut into 8 pieces) Turmeric 1 pinch Ginger garlic paste 1 tbsp Water as required

Now open the cooker carefully and add the potatoes, again give three whistles in pressure cooker.Open the cooker and add the coconut powder dissolved in water, cook till the stew is little thick.Leave it on low flame for a while and then switch of the fire. Mutton stew is ready. Serve with naan or hot parathy.

{

Voted as Editorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Choice

Mutton with bones 1 kg Cumin 1 tsp Cinnamon 2 sticks Green cardamom 4 Cloves 4 to 5 Onions 2 (finely chopped) Black pepper 6 Tomato 1 (chopped) Green chillies

Ghevar

Sohan Halwa

For syrup 1 cup water 2 cup sugar

For ghevar 1/2 cup ghee (solidified) 2 cup maida 2 cup water 1/2 cup milk A pinch saffron 1/4 teaspoon yellow food color Ghee for frying

{

{Heat sugar and water together in a pan. Boil it till

{

one thread consistency. To check single thread consistency: put a drop of sugar syrup on your thumb and touch drop with forefinger. When you pull both the fingers apart, a single thread of syrup should form without breaking. In a large round bowl, take solidified ghee and churn/whisk it till it turns white. Soak saffron in 1 tablespoon of milk. Add maida, then water and milk to the mixture. Adding saffron and yellow color to mixture will make it light yellow in color. Avoid any lump in the mixture. Heat ghee in a deep pan. Slowly pour the above mixture into the center of pan. The mixture will sink down first and then start collecting on the side of pan. Once all the mixture is poured into the pan, lower down the heat to medium high. Let it cook till light brown. Take it out and keep it on paper towel, so that excess ghee will drain out. Dip it in sugar syrup and remove it .Garnish it with dry fruits and cardamom powder.

Arrowroot-2 cups Tartaric acid-1/2 teaspoon Sugar-4 1/2 cups + 1/3 cup Ghee-1.5cups Orange colour-1/2 teaspoon Melon seeds-2 tablespoons Cashewnuts-15 (chopped) Almonds-15(chopped) Pistachios-20(choped)

Soak arrowroot in four cups of water for half an hour. Remove excess water from top. Grease a tray or a thali. Soak tartaric acid. Mix sugar with half its quantity of water and cook to make syrup. Add tartaric acid and cook till it reaches one string consistency. Add edible orange colour to the syrup and mix. Add arrowroot little by little and cook stirring continuously. Meanwhile roast melon seeds in another pan. Add cashewnuts, almonds and pistachios and roast till a nice aroma is given out. When the arrowroot begins to thicken, add ghee, a little at a time, and cook stirring continuously till all the ghee has been incorporated. When the mixture begins to form into a ball add three fourths of the roasted nuts and mix. Pour onto the greased tray or thali and spread. Smoothen the top. Sprinkle the remaining nuts on the top. Cool slightly and cut into diamonds or squares. Separate the pieces when cooled and serve.}

{

Aloo Tikki

3 large boiled potatoes 1 tsp salt 1/4th tsp ground black pepper

fashion

Now that you’ve had a taste of all the delicacies Chandni Chowk has in store for you, let’s move on to some fashionable business. The core of Chandni Chowk lies in its sprawling markets that offer a wide range of fabrics, clothes, jewelry, wedding trousseau, and everything else under the sun.

“Ask any Indian lady worth her salt and she’ll swore by the wedding collection of lehengas and saris available in the markets of Chandni Chowk.” From bling to subdued, from intricate work to flamboyant designs, from every possible texture and fabric to each tint and shade, clothing shops in Chandni Chowk offer a variety like no other! You may not be shopping for the ‘Big Fat Indian Wedding’, yet you’ll find something here that’ll appease the Indian in you. Buyers and retailers swore by the fabrics and designs, and love to source their material from these bustling markets at a very cheap rate. Tourists and hippies find nirvana in the ethnic Indian jewelry that is difficult to be found anywhere else. Mind you, shopping in Chandni Chowk is not easy task, but it’s worth every ounce of effort you’ll put in into getting to the shop amidst all the madness, finding the right material, and then bargaining for the right price!

Ka-ching! From Paranthe Walle Gali take a quick turn to tread the streets of embillishments and trims. Get your wallets out and take a dive in the mine of sequins and laces. The best of designers come here to source their materials. Raise your bling quotient now!

#1 The genesis of Chhabra 555 dates back to more than half a century. In 1954. The small saree shop grew over years to became one of Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top wholesalers and retailers of Indian ethnic wear. They provide high quality fashionable garments at the most affordable prices directly to the consumers at large. They have a large range in not only lehengas and suits but also dupatta, kurtis, unstiched lehengas, readymae suits etc.

It is one of the oldest saree shops in Delhi and immensely popular for its weeding wear collection. It has a huge collection of sarees and lehengas for formal and semi-formal occasions. It is mostly known for its elegant wedding wear. 16,Tiraha Kinari Bazaar,Gali Paranthay Wali ,Chandni Chowk.

Known for their Lehengas, suits, salwars..It is one of the finest places to shop in Chandni Chowk. Shop No 35, Gali Parathe Wali, Chandni #4 Chowk, Delhi. Kamal Bhai Saree Sangam 291, Katra Pyarelal Gali, Chandni Chowk, Delhi - 110006 Call: +(91)-11-66266044

#5 Novelty FabricsNeeraj JainRetail Suits6926/2B Chandawal Road Ghanta Ghar Delhi #6 079312015915 Sanskriti SuitsVikash JainRetail Sarees & Suits 6926/5a-6a Chandawal Road Ghanta Ghar Delhi 079810374870

#7 Derawal ClothSanjay KumarCloth Retail 6926/4A Chandawal Road Ghanta Ghar Delhi 079811120047

Sunehree V 397, Near Katra Neya, Main Road, Chandni Chowk, Delhi 110006 Call: +(91)-11-66227347

#9 Vallabh Saree Emporium 570-571, Katra Asharfi, Opposite Town Hall, Chandni Chowk, Delhi 110006 Call: +(91)-11-66217363

#10

555 Saree House 1853, 1st Floor, Opposite Haldiram, Chandni Chowk, Delhi 110006 Call: +(91)-11-66539488

People You hear the name ‘Chandni Chowk’ and the two poignant factors that come to your mind are, the hardcore Indian food and fashion, but the driving force behind this bustling market is, the people. Step into Chandni Chowk and you’ll witness a constant flux of people growing with every passing hour. Tourists and locals alike, from every corner of the city and the world, come here. The wedding shoppers, the college kids ready to indulge their taste buds, the working class passing by stopping for a quick bite, the fashion industry insiders scouting for material, the foreigners, the hippies, the traditional ethnic folk, and the insiders, the people who’ve been here for decades and their ancestors, for centuries before.

Chandni Chowk is a one stop destination to witness a heady amalgamation of a variety of people merging together to discover something beautifully Indian amidst the madness. The most unique thing about people in Chandni Chowk is that you’re not going to come across just a certain defining set of people, but people across all age groups, traditions, cultures, and lifestyles. Everyone in Chandni Chowk is there for something that defines them, something they like and want to experience.

Whether you take a stroll down the lanes, share a smile with the passersby, bump into humans and animals alike, shop at stores as old as 150 years, eat at the famous food joints, take a visit to the religious shrines or just sit and talk about memories and stories that the locals reminiscent about, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll surely be dazzled by the dynamic energy with which people keep going. Chandni Chowk never stops, because the people of Chandni Chowk never stop. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a consistent buzz, a constant motion, to keep the oldest market alive and going. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a challenge, and yes infuriating at times, to witness and be a part of such constant fluidity, but this is where the spirit of Chandni Chowk resides....In the spirit of its people, the soul of The Moonlit Square.

While we were on our â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;explore and unearth Chandni Chowkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; mission, we chanced upon interacting with owners of some of the famous markets that have been there since, well, before we were born. It was quite an eye opener to say the least. Passionate and humble, these men gave us a glimpse into the memories of their respective businesses and why are they going strong till date. Here are a few excerpts.

Paranthe Walla

Passionate about his paranthas, The owner of Pt. Gaya Prasad Shiv Charan Paranthe Wale, goes into a well versed recital of the 25 types of paranthas that they serve ( aalo, dal, gobhi, mattar, paneer, paapad, tamaatar, rabri, pudina, hari mirch, mix veg and so on..), their specialty being a 16 layered parantha, which in his opinion is the most delicious and a dessert parantha made of rabri thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a must try. His famous shop has been here since 1855. The recipes have been passed down via five generations now. 1910 this place was christened as The Paranthe Waali gali because people only came here to eat paranthas at the then existing 14 shops, which have now dialed down to a mere 4. From celebrities to politicians to famous personalities, everyone has tried his paranthas. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll give you our word, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s definitely worth a try!

#Karim’s The 100 year old Karim’s is one of the most famous historical eating joints at Purani Dilli. Renouned for their Mughlai dishes, Karim’s have their roots firmly planted in the soil of Chandni Chowk.

Their well guarded recipes have been passed down from generations and are still going strong under the care of Zia, the current owner of Karim’s. Their popular dishes (Mutton korma, barra kabab) have been a favorite among their loyalist but Zia’s favorite dish is ‘Naari’, cooked at night to be devoured in the morning. The one question that remains on everyone’s mind is, what is it about Chandni Chowk that they are such a success in Purani Dilli? Zia believes, that the the essence of Purani Dilli is reflected in Karim’s, because they grew up breathing the air of Delhi 6, in and around Jama Masjid, their memories and sentiments attached to this place is tremendous, and this is what keeps them going.

#Ram Chand Kishan Chand We enter a massive showroom and see racks and racks of saris and lehengas in every color, texture, and embroidery lined up. We are introduced to the owner, Mr Chand, 5th generation in line of RCKC which has been registered in Chandni Chowk since 1924. He takes us on a complete tour of what people buy, what’s in fashion, what sells, and why. By the end, we were left quite amazed at the pragmatic approach with which they sell their garments and cater to the taste of their varied customers. Here are a few excerpts from the interview: You enter Chandni Chowk thinking that all you’ll get there is wedding trousseau, but Mr.Chand says that today saris are more of an event based clothing, thus they sell saris catering to occasions, otherwise shops in Chandni Chowk have a wide collection of saris ranging from event based to day to day wear. But the popularity depends on what sells more. And what is it that sells really? ‘Embroidery’, he tells us straight up. ‘Famous designers today don’t know much about the woven section, thus they dabble into embroidery, as it’s easier for them, and no technical knowledge is required in embroidery. Once a customer sees that so and so designer is doing something on embroidery, they also want the same. Thus we sell embroidery more.’

Mr. Chand goes on to add, ‘Ultimately you should wear what looks good on you and satisfies your taste.’ He states the example of Vidya Balan. ‘Everyone knows her story. When she was trying to be modern, she did not look her best, moment she went on to traditional wear, there she is, a star. The rest is history.’ Intrigued as to to where they source all their material from, we are informed that they have their own weavers all over the country. ‘I don’t like to uproot the weaver from his native place. My team transports all the clothes here.’ Simple and brilliant. The most important question remains, why Chandni Chowk? Mr.Chand says, ‘Apart from the historical factor, people are very comfortable buying from here, their ancestors have been shopping here too, so there is familiarity and trust. Those for whom Chandni Chowk is an alien place, they know that Chandni Chowk is the best place to try.’ Why so? ‘Let me put it this way. Suppose you want to wear saris, which is a niche product today, you can go to any market and at the best you’ll find 2-3 shops that offer your taste. No other market offers 10-15 shops that offer my taste, plus a variety of other kinds of material. That’s what sets Chandni Chowk apart.’ We agree. Is Chandni Chowk purely a business or are there sentiments attached? It’s both, there is sentimental value and it’s pure business too, they are not mutually exclusive.

Our last question to Mr.Chand is, what is his one favorite memory associated with Chandni Chowk? He ponders for a while, ‘I just love the buzz, it’s always in a frenzy, at times it irritates you but there’s a constant movement, it’s all charged up, people are excited to work, there is always something happening, it’s beautiful, plus we get to interact with so many kinds of people.’ ‘Had I been sitting in my store in Karol Bagh, I would’ve interacted only with my level of customer, someone I identify with, which is easy, but when you interact with a customer from Bijanor, Malaysia, or Dubai, and they want to pick up a sari, you have to understand their sensibilities and give them exactly what they want, which is a task, and only Chandni Chowk could offer me such a challenge!’ Smiles and cards are exchanged and we take his leave, grasping the fact that makes Chandni Chowk’s market such a success!

#Naan Khatai A young man, named Birender, sells delicious naan kataayi in a corner of Chandni Chowk, every day, all year along. He’s been doing this for the last 20 years, and before him his ancesters have been doing the same for the last 80 years. Purani Dilli is home to him. It’s what he knows, this is where his family has always been, and in continuing his family’s tradition, he finds peace.

#Paan Walla A quite old man sitting in the corner of the curve of a road, right outside his tiny home is busy making paans. Surrounded by a green leaves, coconut and betelnut, he is immersed in his work when we approach him. With a shy welcome, he tells us heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been selling paans for the last 40 years. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not a big deal to him though, he lives right above, he tells us pointing to the tiny room. His name is Vasudev, he informs us. Quite a royal name, we ponder. We leave him to his work and he goes back to his paans..

#Medicine Man Amidst the madness of Chandni Chowk, a tiny dingy shop resides, in which sits an old man, on a chattaayi, in a dark room surrounded by vintage faded bottles containing healing herbs and natural medicines â&#x20AC;&#x201C; he is an Ayurvedic doctor. With a childlike smile he welcomed us into his shop and showed us his herbs with a calm joy, they were of his own making. His shop has been their for centuries, he tells us with pride. Quite believable, as the vibe to the place is that of a shop quite popular during the era of Mughals, now just a silent of echo of the days of royalty gone by...