Hey! Read Me First... This is your “sample” of the book entitled, “All The Stuff You Need To Know About RVing” (©2011). You see the layout, photos, and approach of the complete book. Here are about 50 pages to review but the actual book is 221 pages with over 400 hints, tips, and tricks for helping anyone RVing. A close look at the Table of Contents will show you what’s inside the real book. “All The Stuff...” is the only book in publication with a focus on “How To!” Your customers—new or experienced —will learn the correct way to be comfortable, safe, use, live in, and tow or drive their RV. Put a copy in the hands of your customers. It will be significantly more helpful to them than a cap, coffee mug, Tshirt, or road atlas and will help reduce those “tech support” calls from new buyers to your sales reps. As you look through this sample, notice some pages are missing. We provided a broad range of material so you could sample the content of “All The Stuff...”. Enjoy. For additional information, contact us…
Jim Grich
Peggy Grich
910-209-5210
910-209-5310
jim@americanrver.com
peggy@americanrver.com
All the Stuff You Need to Know About RVing 2nd Edition
Cover update by Nick Inglish All the Stuff You Need to Know About RVing © 2011 RV Stuff ISBN 1-56870-514-X 2nd Edition Printed in the United States of America For information, contact: RV Stuff 1116 Sea Pines Dr. Savannah, Texas 76227 rvstuff@aboutrving.com All rights reserved. This book or parts thereof may not be reproduced or used in any form or by any means— graphic, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping or information storage and retrieval systems—without written permission of the publisher. Making copies of this book, or any portion, is a violation of United States copyright laws. Library of Congress Control Number 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
BPMN 11
2004094101
Table of Contents Foreword!.............................................................................i Look Here First…!............................................................iii Why Do I Need This?!.......................................................v How to Use this Book…!................................................vii A Note on Safety and Caution!.......................................ix The “2nd Edition”!............................................................xi About the Authors…!....................................................xiv
Getting Ready to Drive the RV!................................1 Towable RVs!............................................................................1 “Drivable” RVs!.......................................................................2
Learning to Drive Your RV!...................................................4 It’s Like a Bus…!.......................................................................5
Driving Practice and Practice Driving…!............................6 Try This When Learning to Drive Your RV!........................7 Things To Do Up Front for Pilot and Copilot!..................16 Driving Suggestions!............................................................19 Getting Ready to Drive (The Daily Occurrence)!.............28 Hooking Up the Toad (Tow Vehicle)!.................................30 Backing Up an RV!................................................................31 Backing Into A Campsite!.......................................................33
Fueling Up!............................................................................35 Temporary Parking!..............................................................37 Copilot Help is Special Help!..............................................41
Special Insert #1… Let’s Talk About Your Weight!....................................45 Learning How Much Weight You Can Carry!...........46 Weighing By Independent Wheel Position!................48 Learning About Weight and Your RV Tires!..............49 A Few More Things!...................................................51
Stuff Inside the Coach!.............................................53 Learning to Live in Your RV!...............................................54 Living Room!.........................................................................58 Kitchen and Dining Area!....................................................59 Bathroom!...............................................................................63
Bedroom and Laundry!........................................................64 Closets and Storage!.............................................................65 Packing Your RV!..................................................................67
Special Insert #2… Buying an RV is Hard Work!......................................69
Outside Stuff While Parked!...................................73 When You First Pull Into the Campsite!............................74 Hooking Up the RV at the Campsite—Part I!...................78 Checking Shore Power!........................................................79 Surge Protection!....................................................................81 Line Voltage Monitor!............................................................82
Hooking Up the RV at the Campsite—Part II!.................83 Water Hose Info!.....................................................................84 Other Things!.........................................................................86
Unhooking—Getting Ready to Go!....................................88 Propane!.................................................................................91
Special Insert #3… Sewage 101!...................................................................93 How It Works…!.........................................................94 What You Need…!......................................................96 When to Dump…!......................................................97 Operation or How to Dump…!..................................98 Toilet Chemicals!.......................................................100 RV Toilet Paper!........................................................101 Safety and Cleanliness…!.........................................102
All The Other Stuff You Need To Know!..............105 Towing the Toad!.................................................................107 Tow Bars!..............................................................................109 Tow Dolly!.............................................................................113
Supplemental Braking Systems!.......................................113 Accessories!...........................................................................114 Tow-Vehicle Braking Systems Overview!.............................116 Common Systems!................................................................118 Guidelines to Consider and Questions to Ask…!.................120
Coach and Toad Protection!...............................................122 Bras & Front Protective Masks!...........................................122 Shields!..................................................................................123 Rock Guards!........................................................................123
Winter Camping!.................................................................125 Driving Considerations!.......................................................126 Corrosion Considerations!....................................................126 Parking Considerations!.......................................................127 Camping—Not Winterized!.................................................127 Camping—Winterized!.........................................................129 Power and Energy Considerations!......................................130 Once You Leave Considerations!..........................................131
Winterization!......................................................................132 Exterior and Chassis!............................................................132 Exterior!....................................................................132 Chassis!.....................................................................134 Interior and Coach Systems!.................................................136
Preparing to Use Your RV After Storage!........................138
Exterior and Chassis!............................................................138 Interior and Coach Systems!.................................................140
Maintenance!........................................................................142 Engine RV Maintenance and Care!......................................143 Chassis Maintenance!...........................................................144 Body and Coach Exterior Maintenance!...............................145 Interior Maintenance!...........................................................147 Generator!.............................................................................149 Checking Tires!.....................................................................150 Checking Batteries!...............................................................152
Accessories, Services, and Extra Stuff!.............................154 Sun Shades!..........................................................................154 Digital Video Recorder (DVR)!............................................155 Digital TV Converter Box!...................................................156 High Definition (HD) TV Antenna!....................................156 Silicone Bakeware!................................................................156 CB Radio!..............................................................................158 Headlight and Signals “ON� Reminders!............................158 Inverter!................................................................................159 Remote Tire Pressure Monitoring System!...........................159 Solar Panels!.........................................................................160 RVing FuseSwitch!...............................................................160 Engine / Transmission Monitoring Systems!.......................161 GPS Systems!.......................................................................161 Mapping Software!...............................................................162 Rear-View Monitor System!.................................................162 Unusual Road Atlases!.........................................................163 Camping Organizations and Clubs!.....................................164 Rallies and Caravans!...........................................................165
Emergency Road Service!.....................................................166 Campground Directories!.....................................................167 Jack Blocks!...........................................................................168 Macerator Sewage Pump!.....................................................169 Aqua-Hot!.............................................................................170 Wrinkle-Free RV Laundry!...................................................170 Holding Tank Sensors!..........................................................171
Special Insert #4… Boondocking 101!.......................................................173 Living Well with No Hookups!.................................175 Convenience and Cost Saving!.................................175 The Ultimate in Instant Savings!.............................179 Some Boondocking Hints!........................................179 Good To Go—Anywhere!..........................................182
Border Crossing Stuff!............................................183 Before You Leave!................................................................184 Preparing to Cross the Border!..........................................187 Once You are in the Foreign Country!.............................188 Re-entering Your Country!................................................191
Look Here First… This book will help you. First, this book is for two different groups. One is the first-time buyer—those totally new to RVing but possibly not new to camping. The information throughout this book is specifically directed at camping “on wheels” and definitely leans toward the larger RVs—both drivables and towables. The second group is experienced RVers who want to get into a larger or different type of RV. This could be someone that may own a pickup camper but wants to move to a 5th wheel, or that may own a towable unit (5th wheel or travel trailer) and may want to move to a motorhome, or someone that owns a gas motorhome and wants to move to a diesel pusher. This book will help. Much of the information is usable in virtually every RV. Our content will not go out of date. Other innovations will be developed but the basics and processes of RVing remain the same. iii
We have included hundreds of ideas and suggestions. We numbered many of them so you can easily reference any item. The rest are tucked into the narratives. You will learn… • How to drive
• Inside stuff
• How to dump
• How to hook up
• How to pack
• How to unhook
• How to maintain
• How to live without hooking up
• How to live
• Extra stuff you can buy
• Safety stuff
• How to cross a border
• Outside stuff
• How to get it home the first time
Some suggestions are quick and easy. Some are lengthy and expensive. Some are applicable to virtually every camper on wheels. Some are specific. Whether you are full time, part time, or only wish you had time, this book will help!
iv
How to Use this Book… This isn’t a “How to Buy an RV” book nor a novel about RVing nor a travelogue. This book is better used as a kind of non-technical “technical” manual that contains things that are really helpful, make it easier to get started, will make your RVing life a bit easier, will possibly help you out of trouble at some point, and are just nice to know! We attempted to stay away from brand names but have included a few out of necessity. We have photographed real RVs and real accessories being used in real situations. When brand names appear in photographs, this should not be construed as a recommendation, but merely an illustration. No RV manufacturers were contacted during the writing of this book. We have offered many suggestions that we hope are beneficial to your lifestyle in an RV. Some are facts. Some are hints. Some are suggestions. Some are rumor. Some work. Some may not (for you). vii
There are two authors and we asked spouses, friends, sales reps, campground owners, and many other RVers for their suggestions. We often ended up with several ways to accomplish the same thing. If so, we included all of them. You choose which ones work best for you. We did not organize by RV size nor type as much of the information applies to all. Obviously, if you find yourself reading something that simply does not apply to you, move on! The next item may be just what you need. We continuously numbered the items so it is easy to ask about or refer to one. We thought it best to set it up by functional area. With that, the major sections are… • Getting Ready to Drive and Driving Stuff • Stuff Inside the Coach • Outside Stuff while Parked • All the Other Stuff You Need to Know Enjoy!
viii
A Note on Safety and Caution Portions of this book involve information about the driving, towing, and handling of an RV. Since driving the RV is one of the uses for it, and since driving any vehicle has an element of risk, it is incumbent on the RVer (you) to be aware of the safety issues, be aware of the laws, and practice safe driving techniques. This book is not meant to be a “driving� course, nor driving instruction, nor even suggestions for how to drive an RV. It does suggest ideas for learning the limitations and practicing maneuvers in your RV in an off-road environment such as a large parking lot. These ideas will apply to both drivable and towable RVs. RV drivers are considered among the safest in the world. This may be due to age, experience, or factors such as the fact that they are driving their vehicle and home together. Simply, a driving mistake or error may be costly in money and health. Be safe! ix
About the Authors… I’m Ron Jones and I’ve been RVing a long time—that is, I got up off the ground and started camping on wheels in 1962 in a Nimrod trailer pulled with my 1962 Corvair. It was basic but fun —and I was not sleeping on the ground. Sandy (wife) and I have been fulltiming since early in 2003. We meander everywhere across the USA and Canada in our diesel pusher. I stay busy. Here’s my info… Ron has retired (several times). He is retired Army (medical, 1970), retired Senior Professor of Engineering Technology at the University of North Texas (1998), and retired publisher (RonJon Publishing, Inc.). Ron loves traveling, cooking, good wine, photography, writing, and eating out, and enjoying a good, local microbrewed beer. Ron writes (a lot). He was a columnist for Coast to Coast RV magazine, had feature articles published in Motorhome, Highways, Family Motor Coaching, and Escapees magazines, and a contributor to the Good Sam Website (for Weekly RV Tips and CyberSam articles). He has written ten books including numerous textbooks, how-to books, was a collaborator with Sandy on “Wrinkle-Free RV Laundry,” wrote “Fulltiming for New and Used RVers,” and his newest, “RVing to Alaska” (©2010) and owns the website… aboutrving.com. I love this lifestyle. In our seminars, I tell people that my last drive in my RV will be to the nursing home door where I will hand them my keys and they can help me inside. xiv
About the Authors… Rob Lowe began camping with his parents in a small travel trailer in the early 1960s. He ventured out alone with a tent strapped to his motorcycle in 1966. The lure of the outdoors continued and when GMC introduced their revolutionary motorhome in the early 1970s, he dreamed of traveling by motorhome. After camping with his family in two pop-up trailers throughout Southern Ontario, Canada, he and his wife Jane began planning two cross-country trips and bought their first motorhome, a Class C, in 1989. They have progressed through three Class A’s and currently own a 40-foot diesel pusher. They have logged over 250,000 kilometres (155,000 miles) traveling throughout North America, while still actively employed. Other motorhome owners often seek Rob’s expertise and he frequently provides technical advice on Internet e-mail groups. Rob served for 3.5 years as the Editor of the Bounder Beacon, a bimonthly, 32-page newsletter read by approximately 3,000 Bounder motorhome owners. Rob has been their Technical Editor for over eleven years. He operates an Internet-based RV parts business focused on motorhome safety equipment and supplies (www.rv-partsplus.com) and is a Commercial Investment Real Estate Broker. Rob’s hobbies include photography, 12-volt electronics and traveling.
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1
Section
Getting Ready to Drive the RV Recreational vehicles (RVs) come in two types: towable and drivable. There are several related styles including pick-up campers (may be called “slide-ins”) and the “toy hauler” (designed to haul adult “toys”—motorcycles, ATVs, etc.) inside, in the rear.
Towable RVs Available in two configurations, “towables” include… A travel trailer is pulled behind a vehicle and connected by a hitch. A travel trailer can be towed by a variety of vehicles with many light weight trailers now available. These can be towed with smaller vehicles. 1
The 5th wheel is towed behind a truck and requires a special type of hitch that is mounted in the bed of the truck. You cannot tow a 5th wheel with a car. The 5th wheel is the largest towable RV.
“Drivable” RVs Available in three “classes” or “types,” there is some overlap in available sizes in the three types. Class B… RVs are “vanshaped” and will handle just like that big car, big SUV, or pickup truck since they are built on a van chassis. These are the smallest of the drivable RVs that can be driven and parked anywhere. Class C… has the “van” cab and a trailer-like rear section. It is distinguishable by the classic front sleeper—traditionally one bed (or TV/entertainment module) is built in a space that extends out over the cab of the vehicle on many models. These RVs range from 22– 30+ feet (6.7–9+ m) long and are taller than the Class B. Class C RVs require more driver attention to height and length (especially when turning, parking, and backing up) plus parking may be limited. 2
3.
Practice correct turning techniques with your coach. You need to establish a “point of reference” to judge when you can start your turn (actually start turning the wheels). For a right turn, one good place is to find a reference point on the passenger-side window frame. Until you are comfortable judging this, put a piece of tape on the window frame as your reference point to begin the turn. There are various reference points to use and these depend on your coach’s turning radius. On smaller RVs, the front bumper is that reference. Incorrect turning causes you to frequently hit the curb with the rear wheels. This will damage the tires, as the sidewalls of the tires are relatively thin when compared to the tread. Tire damage is dangerous and expensive!
4.
Learn to get out of tight spots. Assume you pull into a big grocery parking lot. You carefully park way back, away from the cars, go in, buy groceries, and come out. Someone has parked right in front of you! Can you get out? Sure, you can unhook the toad, back up, rehook, and go. But there’s another way. Find an empty church parking lot on a Tuesday morning (it’s likely empty). Learn the exact space in which you need to maneuver. Stop the coach, put it in park, and turn your drive wheels to the extreme left. Go stand in front of the center of your coach—stand about two arm’s length away. 9
Have the driver creep forward (slowly) keeping the wheels turned to the extreme left. They should miss the person in front (barely). By doing this, you will know the real distance you need to clear an object in front of you—a car, boulder, curb, or anything else. Park with your front just over the parking line and this will “protect” the space. Parking spaces are nearly all 9 " feet (2.7 meters) wide and you need roughly 6 feet (1.8 meters) to drive out so someone parking in front of you won’t block you in. You should drive clear of the vehicle in front (we hope). Use those orange traffic cones and practice your turns, judging distance, and maneuvering the coach while in a large, empty parking lot. A church 10
parking lot during mid-week is a good place to practice. It’s better to find out now that you are having trouble backing into a simulated camping space than a real one. Try some U-turns, too. 5.
Go for a drive. After you gain confidence doing this, take the coach out for a drive on some two-lane streets—an industrial park is great for this since the streets accommodate large trucks. Often, these businesses close late afternoon and other traffic in the industrial park may be light or nonexistent. Practice some real turns on real streets. Be sure the copilot practices this, too.
6.
Practice all this again at night. You will be surprised!
7.
Maneuvering. Find a private, little-used, paved road, out of town. Stop the coach. Check for traffic! Now, floor it in what could be considered an emergency get-away—think of a scenario such as you have just robbed a bank or your copilot just had a heart attack! Do this. You need to know. If possible, also do this starting at the foot of a hill—the steeper the better. No hills where you live? Then look for an Interstate or highway on-ramp that has an incline.
8.
Emergency Maneuvers. Using the same private, paved road, carefully staying in your lane (and going about 20 mph (35 km/h), jerk the steering wheel and immediately change lanes. Use the scenario as though you were swerving to miss a child on a bicycle. Do this at 30 mph (50 km/h). Do it again at 40 mph (65 km/h). Why? These are all typical in-town speeds. Understand what your coach can do in emergency situations before the actual emergency happens. 11
9.
Find your overswing. This is the distance the rear corner of your coach actually swings out when you make a sharp turn—either direction. You must know this or you will wipe out objects too close to you and damage the rear corners of your RV. You can do this in a wide driveway since there is only a tiny bit of actual driving. Align your coach’s passenger side with the straight edge of the driveway. Be sure to mark the position of the rear of the coach and the center of the rear wheel position. The process is the same in a parking lot.
Align your cones (rock, can, or mark) with the rear of the coach and the center of the rear wheel as shown above. Use the dual-wheel position if you have a coach with a tag axle. Looking from the rear, cones are aligned parallel with the coach. This is the starting position.
12
Have your steering wheels turned to maximum left. Now creep forward. Have the copilot signal “Stop� when the rear of the coach swings out to maximum width. Then you can measure from the forward cone (mark, etc.) to the edge of the coach.(We repositioned the rear cone here just to emphasize what to measure.) You must have this much clearance space when turning. How important is overswing? Very important! Significant and costly damage as shown below can result from not knowing or not allowing for overswing.
13
10. Find your U-turn space. Measure the distance needed from side-to-side you must have to make a U-turn (you want to turn as tight as possible—this is a “get out” maneuver). Assume you turned into a blind parking lot (one where you cannot see the exits or the available space before you enter) and now you have to get out. In that church parking lot, pull your coach to the far right side to make a U-turn. With the drive wheels straight, set a cone at the right-front passenger-side corner of your coach. Put the parking brake on. Turn your wheels maximum left. Release the brake. start the turn, keep those wheels turned left. Slowly creep through the U-turn. When the right-front corner of your coach reaches a point in the turn that is maximum distance from where you started, set a cone. Move the coach and measure from marker-to-marker. Add your overswing to this distance. This is the absolute minimum distance you need to U-turn your coach. The next time you enter a tight, blind parking lot, you can actually measure the U-turn space you need—no guessing. U-turn space = turning radius + overswing. Don’t assume you can just unhook the toad and get out— U-turn space is not affected when towing. However, while unhooking the toad does allow you to back up, this can also be very tricky—and may even be a more difficult maneuver—in a tight parking lot. 14
11. Find your front blind spot. There is an area directly in front of all vehicles that is a blind spot—it is physically impossible to see in this area while sitting in the driver’s seat. This area increases with the size of the RV. It is most prevalent in Class A coaches where it can be large enough to hide kids, grocery carts, or even a small car! Your line of sight is critical in determining how much “blind” area you have in front of your particular coach. Set this up carefully at any campground or parking area. To find your front blind spot, sit in the driver’s seat. Have your copilot stand outside in front of the coach facing you. Look just over the top of the dash so you can see their waist in the lowest part of the windshield. Have them step backward slowly until you can see their toes—then stop. Mark the spot where their toes are and measure from the front of the coach to the mark. This is your blind spot. You cannot see anything in this area. With the copilot positioned and not moving, go out and measure from the “toes to the nose” of the coach. This distance is your 15
front blind area. You simply cannot see in this area while sitting in the driver’s seat. Therefore, you or the copilot must check this blind spot in front before driving or you could wipe out a few grocery carts or a bicycle! The height of the driver does make a difference. Two tests confirmed the following: Driver height
Blind area distance in front of coach
6 ft. 3 in. (1.91 m)
20 feet (6.1 m)
5 ft. 2 in. (1.57 m)
25 feet (7.62 m)
Individual drivers must be aware of their personal blind spot limitations. This distance changes with each driver’s height and personal seat adjustment (forward/back and height adjustment).
Things To Do Up Front for Pilot and Copilot 12. When it’s your turn to drive, sit in the driver’s seat and adjust everything to fit you before you drive away (the seat, mirrors, etc.). Driving a new coach takes all your concentration. Be as ready as possible before you go. 13. Adjust your convex mirrors to allow both you and the copilot to see down alongside your coach so that cars cannot be in a totally blind spot. Once set, the convex mirrors usually do not have to be moved. Note: Do not use convex mirrors to judge distance! You must use the large flat mirrors—even in the rain. 16
14. Having your mirrors adjusted correctly is crucial to being a safe driver. Adjust the large flat mirror so that about onequarter of the inside portion (nearest the coach) is taken up with the side of your RV. Then set the Earth’s horizon about 2/3 to 3/4 of the distance from the bottom. Each driver will need to readjust each time they take up driving. This is a quick and simple task with powered mirrors. 15. Adjust front-mounted mirrors by aligning the inside edge of the mirror housing with the respective sides of the coach. Just stand near the rear of the coach and sight forward for each mirror. Have someone adjust that mirror arm until the inside edge of the mirror housing is barely visible to you. Next, sit in the driver’s seat and adjust by swiveling the mirror housing to the correct angle. Then, finish inside with your controls. 16. If reflections are a problem in your windshield—especially at night—use a dark colored, non-reflective cloth (like polar fleece) to cover your dash to prevent reflections. It needs to be washable. Get two pieces instead of one large one so it will be a bit more manageable. 17. Many of the rear-view monitors found on motorhomes will adjust automatically or they will have settings (a switch) for day usage and night usage. Change the setting as needed. Using the night setting will greatly reduce the glare and be easier on your eyes when driving at night or heavily overcast days. This will be similar to decreasing the brightness of your dash lights. 17
Section
2
Stuff Inside the Coach When you use the RV, you have to live in it for some period of time. It may be the occasional weekend or full-time as many RVers do. Since you “live� in the RV for various periods of time, daily items that are commonly used must be stored. Even the largest motorhome is very likely smaller than that first tiny apartment you rented years ago! Surviving through those occasional weekends is easy enough. Being comfortable and secure for several weeks or months is different. You must be efficient and (at least a bit) organized. 53
Being efficient is mandatory—you cannot stock up with multiples of the same items like you did in your home or apartment. This applies to clothing, food, knickknacks, pictures, and those things we normally live with. You can certainly have some of everything, but you must pick and choose. Some items must be stored when driving. The coffee pot is rarely permanently mounted in newer RVs. Loose items may end up on the floor or, worst case, become a potential projectile during a panic stop when driving. You cannot have items just casually scattered around. For example, you cannot just drop dirty clothing on the floor. There isn’t room to walk around it and you will trip.
Learning to Live in Your RV 86. Find a store that has a variety of those tough plastic tubs. You are going to need several. But don’t buy any until you get your RV or you will have to guess at the sizes. If you traded RVs, getting new tubs that fit will be more efficient. 87. Allow yourself several full days just to pack the coach the first time. You need time to decide what to take, if it will fit, where to put it, and how you will remember where it is. The RV packing rule is… pack and store your heavy items in lower compartments, lighter items up higher, and always remember to spread the weight around. Soon after loading, if possible, you should have your coach weighed to ensure you are not overweight on any wheel position. 54
There is additional information about the importance of weighing your RV and how to do it at <aboutrving.com>. 88. When the slides are not out (in the travel position) is a good time to check to see if you can reach the necessities that may be obstructed when the slides are in. Can you get a jacket or umbrella out of the closet? Can you reach the pet food, open the fridge door, and use the bathroom? Plan where things will be stored so you can adjust as needed before it becomes a problem—on that occasion when a slide cannot be put out due to some obstruction. 89. Cabinet doors may pop open when traveling and especially if you have to cross a speed bump. Purchase the “childproof” latches for cabinets—not the ones that attach to the inside of the cabinet door. Get the ones that drape across both cabinet handles where you have matching doors. Latch those doors together when you drive and be sure to go over those speed bumps dead slow. For single doors, you may need a second latch. 90. Try using your coach air conditioners when driving rather than your engine (dash) air or in a colder climate, run your heat pumps. It is important to regularly use your engine air conditioner to keep the seals lubricated and performing. Using your coach air conditioners or heat pumps will provide good climate control and it will force you to exercise your generator under load—easily accomplished when traveling. With the generator running, you will also be able to run the refrigerator on AC rather than LP gas. 55
91. Run all of the roof ACs when driving in dust (heavy construction) to help prevent the dust from creeping in the tiny openings on all RVs. 92. Hide a full set of motorhome and car keys somewhere outside the RV. Hide all the keys you might need. Put the keys inside two zip-close plastic bags, give them a squirt of dry lubricant, wrap and squeeze the air out of the bag, seal it, and tape it shut or seal it with a “food saver” machine that creates a vacuum in the bag. Using black, electrical tape (not duct tape because it is grey and easy to see), tape this lump of keys on top of some part of the frame underneath the RV. Tape it on top so it cannot be seen by just looking or even crawling underneath—you have to know exactly where it is to actually put hands on it. Sure, you may have to crawl in the rain or mud to get these keys but that’s okay. You do not want that lump of keys to be spotted accidentally by the person changing your oil, working under your RV, or anyone snooping around your RV when you are gone some night. 93. Program special numbers into your cell phone before any major trip. When saving numbers in your cell phone, save them to the “SIM” card—that small storage card inside the phone. Ask your phone provider to show you how or read your manual. Saving numbers in this manner will allow you to easily transfer all your phone numbers to the next cell phone simply by moving the SIM card. There are special numbers that should be programmed into your cell phone when traveling for extended periods. • Your credit card Customer Assistance Phone Numbers (Not your credit card number) • Insurance company (Car/Truck/RV) 56
• Emergency Road Service • Emergency Medical Evacuation Insurance • Doctors • Bank • RV Tech Support (Mfg., dealer, or both) • Family and friends, of course. A special word about “ICE” numbers… ICE (In Case of Emergency) numbers are used by law enforcement and emergency medical personnel IF you are incapacitated in any emergency. Most of us carry a cell phone. Program your ICE numbers into your phone. Put the letters ICE first so it will show up alphabetically on your phone number list. Designate multiple ICE numbers in several ways such as… ICE Wife Work
ICE Wife Cell
ICE Daughter School
ICE Daughter
Your ICE number should put the caller in contact with a person familiar with your medical condition and who may be able to speak with some authority on your care. 94. Make a list of phone numbers (family, emergency services, RV and chassis manufacturer, dealer, insurance, etc.). Have the pilot and copilot carry a copy, put one up front in the coach, and one in the toad. It is nearly impossible to get this information when stored, for example, under the bed or in a cabinet obstructed by a slide—especially if slides cannot be opened! 95. Learn how to manage your systems by being conservative with your water and electrical usage, especially if you want to boondock or dry camp. 57
Living Room You spend a lot of time in the RV living room—just like in a real house! Therefore, your comfort level is important in your RV. Spend time thinking about how to make this unique space fit your particular lifestyle and needs. It’s worth the effort. 96. If your coach has driver and passenger seats that swivel, learn how to adjust them to provide additional seating. 97. Reading lights are notoriously miserable in many RVs. Get an inexpensive, clipon light fixtures that uses a maximum 60-watt bulb or an LED light. This works fine and can be easily moved. 98. Check for storage behind the sofa. Sometimes a short, folding ladder or window screens can be stored there. 99. Find a small folding wooden or plastic table to use in the living room when parked. Store it on the bed when driving. 100. Use carpet samples (with a finished edge) to put temporary carpet on your entry steps. Cut the sample to step-size and use two-sided carpet tape to hold it down with the finished edge out. Toss when dirty. 101. Plan to clean and vacuum more often than you did when living in a house or apartment. Your RV will simply get dirtier faster. This is due to two things. First, the size of the RV forces you to live in a smaller space. Tracking anything into the RV forces you to use the same door and step into the same area every time. Dirt will accumulate faster. Second, living in a house that may be surrounded by grass, trees, and paved streets decreases the potential for blowing dust and dirt. Driving your RV will cause you to be in open spaces more often—such as fueling up or going through 58
construction sites. The potential for blowing dust and dirt to enter your RV is increased with travel. 102. Vacuuming frequently is necessary. You may have a central vacuuming system. Otherwise, a canister vacuum may be easier to manipulate inside the RV. The standard-size upright vacuums typically found in homes may be too unwieldy for some of the confined places in your RV. Finally, don’t forget you may have to vacuum the ceilings if the material is “carpet-like”—commonly found in RVs.
Kitchen and Dining Area 103. Use the non-slip material. Line your cabinets and drawers with it to help muffle noise and keep things in place. It comes in both a thick and thin version and each works well. Purchase the rolls and cut the specific sizes you need. 104. Place egg cartons on shelves longways, front to back—they will never fall out. 105. Always open a refrigerator door carefully after driving and be prepared to catch falling items. 106. Use some empty egg cartons as separators in your fridge. They will buffer and protect items. 107. Small bungee cords will help stabilize items to your fridge shelves when driving. 108. For a large dish in the fridge (like a leftover casserole), place a piece of the non-slip material over the fridge shelf to keep the dish from sliding. 109. If your fridge has the “Automatic” (AU) setting, this generally means that it will automatically run on electricity when plugged in and LP gas when not plugged in. You 59
won’t have to change it. Also, this setting will protect your food if the park’s power (the shore power) goes off. 110. Don’t crowd a lot of things on the shelf closest to the cooling fins in your refrigerator. Air needs to move over these fins to cool properly. 111. Use lids from copy paper boxes (available from printers or copy shops) to organize and store canned goods in cabinets. This is a good way to prevent canned goods from bouncing around in a cabinet— the cardboard lid will absorb the bouncing from the cans. If you don’t like the looks of the box, put some decorative paper on it. The box lids will act like drawers and are great for carrying canned goods in and out of the house when getting ready to depart on a trip or when you return. 112. Plastic bins are great for separating dry foods in the cabinets. Use bins with holes in the sides to facilitate air circulation. Plastic baskets are great for storing dry, lightweight foods. 113. Flat pot lids are easier to store than taller, dome lids. Flat lids are available in any restaurant supply. Use a basket as an excellent storage place for your pot and pan lids. This also allows better air circulation if lids are put away when damp. 60
114. Have some good quality plastic knives and forks and heavy paper plates (paper, so you can toss them on the campfire, if available) on hand. 115. Store good glassware (like those crystal wine glasses) in the flexible-foam drink huggies. Many companies give these away or you can find them at yard sales. 116. To mix small amounts (such as in a one-cup measure), use one mixer blade—not two—in your electric mixer. 117. If you occasionally need a large pot (such as a Dutch oven), store it outside, underneath. 118. If you occasionally use a pot too large for the kitchen sink —wash it in the shower. A plastic tub set in the shower works well for soapy wash water. 119. Use a small storage tub tucked back somewhere to hold kitchen gadgets that are occasionally needed but rarely used. Consider this for the grater, knife sharpener, and meat cleaver to name a few. 120. Sink covers look nice but are nearly useless when preparing food because they eliminate access to the sink. Cutting the larger sink covers in half will allow the cook access to the sink without sacrificing all the surface area. The covers can be cut using any circular saw with a carbide blade. Use a file to round the edges. After cutting, the four pieces will continue to totally cover the sink if needed. They will look fine, too.
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A second reason for cutting the cover is that this will allow you to place a dish drainer on the edge of the sink and the water will drip in the same sink. Think of this arrangement as access to 1 1/2 sinks. 121. RVs in the medium-priced range may not have a flexible sprayer on the kitchen sink. Replace the faucet with a unit that contains a sprayer built in to the faucet head. Get one at the local hardwareâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;it should fit. 122. The kitchen faucet is easily enhanced by attaching a small, swiveling sprayer. These are inexpensive, available everywhere, and will make your life easier. 123. If you regularly use an electric can opener, store a manual one as a backup. 124. Store bulky kitchen items in a bin. 125. Store bottles of cooking liquids all together in a solid, plastic container when driving. When one happens to break, the spill will be contained. Use an old hand towel to cushion them while driving. 126. Lay a folded bath towel on top of the turntable in the microwave oven to prevent it from bouncing around while driving. 62
Special Insert #3… Sewage 101 One of the unpleasant necessities of RVing is the process of dumping holding tanks. To new RVers, the equipment and physical operation required to connect to and dump the holding tanks is probably the most unfamiliar system on the RV. Every other apparatus has a counterpart in the home and yes, while homes have a sewer system, they are, for the most part, hidden. They work and you rarely have to deal with them. RVers (and big boater’s, too) have made a conscious decision to carry your “crap” with you. Every once in awhile, you have to get rid of it and make room for more. Make your RV life better, easier, cleaner by following this “rule”… Make it easy for the sewage to get from the coach to the hole in the ground! In our seminars, we hear more wild stories about sewage than anything else. RVers confess to leaving both tank valves open while hooked up (a no-no), comments about dumping the tanks every second/third day regardless of how full they are, recipes for home93
brewed toilet chemicals, and myths for cleaning tanks. Nearly all admit they learned how from a friend. The bottom line is that you do not want “poop in your pipe,” so here’s the correct procedure for dumping your tanks. The beauty of doing this correctly is that it is the most efficient, safest, easiest, and cleanest process. Plus, you need to operate this system correctly from Day One of RV ownership. Even if your RV is parked for long periods of time, if you are living in it, you will have to operate the sewer—it is not automatic. Our purpose is not to be crude but to explain this serious subject as clearly as possible so you will know how to deal with this necessity when living in your RV. Remember… Make it easy for the sewage to get from the coach to the hole in the ground!
How It Works… There are three “holding” tanks in the vast majority of RVs. One is a “Fresh Water Tank” that holds “potable” or drinking water. When not hooked up to the campground (or other) water faucet, all water on board that is pumped through any faucet in the RV comes from this tank. Plus, the water used to flush the toilet is also pumped from this tank. This is the only source of fresh water you carry with you. You should note that when hooked up to campground water using the white water hose, and then opening a faucet inside the RV, the water does not pass through the fresh water tank to get to that faucet. The incoming water actually bypasses the fresh water tank and is routed directly to various faucets. Therefore, if you are hooked up every day, you are never using the water from your fresh water tank. Try this… An easy way to keep your on-board water fresh and odor-free is to turn off the water at the campground 94
faucet. Then simply use the water from your fresh water tank for daily needs. When the tank volume is low, refill it. By hooking up every day and not using the water from the tank, that water will become stale and eventually have an odor—especially in hot weather. There are two other “holding tanks” on modern RVs. One is called “grey water” and is designed to hold the runoff from all sinks and the shower. Thus, the grey holding tank typically holds “soapy” water—from showers, hand washing, dish washing, etc. The second tank is called “black water” and is designed to hold the raw sewage resulting from flushing the toilet. This tank is usually located directly below the toilet and functions exactly like the old “outhouse.” The difference is that the RV toilet adds water to the sewage when the toilet is flushed—the outhouse did not. The black tank drains into a solid, black, 3-inch-diameter pipe located in or under your RV but usually near the utility compartment. The grey tank drains into a 1.5-inch solid black pipe and this pipe is permanently connected to the large, 3-inchpipe just prior to reaching the sewer-hose connection. Each of these drain pipes contains a “shutoff”—a push/pull, open/ close “blade” valve. The grey and black tanks are only connected near the sewer-hose connection. Sewer hoses are approximately a 3-inch-diameter flexible hose with a twist-lock connector on one end. That connector will attach and twist-lock onto the end of the rigid black pipe coming out of the RV. That twist-lock is the sewer-hose connection. The other end of the sewer hose must go into the sewer access, usually some type of pipe or, at minimum, a hole in the ground, at 95
your campsite or dump station. There are several universal-type adapters you can use for this connection. It is highly recommended that you use a connector rather than just sticking the end of your flexible sewer hose in the sewer access hole. A common arrangement is to have the right-angle attachment used to fit the sewer hose into the ground connection. A connector will form somewhat of a seal that helps prevent both odors and splash-back. Also available, is a flexible rubber “collar” (adaptor ring—often called the “donut”) that fits around the connection to help create the seal. It is common to have and use both when needed. Some places require the use of the rubber adaptor ring (donut). The “donut” and the ground connector is shown here. When you open (pull out) the respective blade valve, either the black water or grey water is directed (flows) into a single, large pipe, through your sewer hose, and into the sewer access in the ground. There is a cap for the sewer-hose connection and you should use it when the sewer hose is not connected. It will prevent any drips from ending up on the bottom of your utility compartment.
What You Need… The only item required for dumping your tanks is the sewer hose. Sewer hoses are commonly available in lengths of 10 feet or 20 feet. There are also connectors that allow you to hook two hoses together for extra length. Carry at least 20 feet of hose because sometimes you just can’t park close enough to connect.
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There are plastic and aluminum “racks” that expand to fit underneath your sewer hose to hold it in place and allow it to drain down at an angle. These are often helpful and useful in many situations. There will be times when you cannot use these or using them would have no effect on the drainage. The infamous sewer hose “hump” ensures a blockage. The hose will fill without flowing. The “hump” is typically caused by not using a rightangle end on the sewer hose.
When to Dump… Dump your black water when the tank is approximately 1/2 to 3/4 full. If two adults are traveling in a RV, it may be several days before you need to dump the black water. You also need a 1/2 to 3/4-tank of grey water to effectively flush out the sewer hose after dumping the black water. Many RVers actually camp with both tanks closed. Then at some point, they dump. The grey tank will typically fill faster than the black tank through normal usage. You can periodically dump some of the grey water if needed. If you should overfill the grey water tank, it will simply back up into the bathtub (or shower drain) as it is the lowest drain in the RV. There will be some odor but this will go away when you dump. Both the black and grey tank need to be close to full to be most effective when dumping. The larger mass of mostly liquid will create “head pressure”—the action of a mass of liquid trying to push itself out of a container (like a tank). The more you have the more head pressure helps force sewage out through the hose. The sewage sort of pushes itself out through the sewer hose and (with 97
the help of some gravity) your tank is quickly emptied. That’s what you want—all the sewage to gush out like water through a fire hose but not trickle out like sprinkling your flowers with a watering can. The best time to dump is after a lengthy drive with both tanks close to full and as soon as you hook up. The driving will cause the residue in the black water tank to jostle and mix and help break up the solids. This liquid mixture will drain efficiently. Never leave your black water valve open all the time—even when camping long term! The liquids will trickle out and the solids in the black water tank will accumulate. These solids need to be “broken down” inside the black water tank in order to flow out efficiently. Here’s why… If the RV is not moving (parked for a few days), the black water tank actually functions like an old “outhouse” or portable toilet. Solids will stack and form what some RVers refer to as the “cone of crap” because the black tank is directly below the toilet. While there is water in the tank as a result of the flushing, there is no physical movement to “stir it up” or mix the liquid and solids. That’s why it is best to dump the black water right after a drive.
Operation or How to Dump… When at a campsite for the night or at a dump station, position the RV 5–10 feet away from the ground access. Parking too close will often force the hose to form into tight curves and hamper the flow. Attach the sewer hose to the sewer hose connection in or near your utility compartment and lock it in place. Place the other end in 98
the ground access. Then, arrange your sewer hose so that it is the straightest possible run from one connection to the other. A second option is to expand the hose to form a wide gentle curve. You do not want tight twists and turns in the hose that would slow down or hinder the flow of sewage running through the sewer hose. Campsites normally have a rock or brick next to the sewer. Use this to hold down the sewer hose. Some people hold it down with their foot but if any splashing occurs, you will carry the sewage back into the RV.
A prize-winning sewer hose display. This particular hose configuration will force all residue to actually climb two hills before reaching the ground connection. This is definitely a â&#x20AC;&#x153;how-not-to.â&#x20AC;?
Dump the black water first! Pull open the black water blade valve and let it gush out. When finished, close the valve. If your RV has a black water flushing system then connect a garden hose (do not use your white water hose!) to the fitting, preferably through an anti-siphon valve. Turn on the hose and allow it to run for two or three minutes to flush the black tank, and clean off the tank sensors, then turn off the water. Re-open the black tank blade valve and drain the water and remaining material once again. 99
Use a clear fitting between the sewer hose connection and sewer hose to monitor the progress of the flushing process. Repeat until the water flowing out is mostly clear. Next, open the grey water blade valve and dump the grey water. Dumping in this sequence will allow the soapy grey water, (runoff from the sinks and shower) to literally wash out the sewer hose. This will ensure that residue in the hose from the black water tank will be washed away. While a smaller quantity of grey water will dump just fine (it has no solids in it), why do you need the 1/2–3/4 full grey tank? If you have a small quantity of grey water, it may only fill the bottom half of your sewer hose and thus, the inside top half will not be washed out. You want enough grey water to gush down into that sewer hose, literally filling it while dumping. After dumping the black tank and before disconnecting the Flusher hose, add up to 5 gallons (20± litres) of fresh water to the black tank to reduce the chance of building up solids on the bottom of the tank, since some sewage may not have emptied. If your RV does not have a Black Tank Flusher, fill the toilet to near the top of the bowl and flush it 3 to 5 times to add water to the tank.
Toilet Chemicals After dumping your black water, add the toilet chemical (preferably those which are biodegradable and do not contain formaldehyde). Read the toilet chemical package and follow specific directions. It’s best to run 1–2 gallons of fresh water into the tank by holding the flush lever open. Don’t skimp on this initial water. The black water tank must have a liquid base to ensure dispersal of toilet chemicals for efficient breakdown of solids. 100
Use toilet chemicals to help the operation of the sewage system. Toilet chemicals help prevent problems. There are numerous brands available and they come in liquid, tablet, powder, or “tab” (a small, self-contained packet that is just dropped in, whole). Many RVers tell us they mix their own toilet chemicals! They use cleaning liquids, caustic (dishwasher) soaps , pine oil, cooking yeast, bleach, water-softener chemicals, and other home-brew mixtures in an attempt to save money. There are other, much easier, ways to save money. Just think… boondocking one night will save enough to buy toilet chemicals for a few months! Toilet chemicals have two functions. They break down solids and help prevent odors… Breakdown solids… Toilet chemicals are bacteria and enzymes that literally digest—i.e., decompose—nonliquid stuff in the holding tank. Some toilet chemicals start this process in 3–4 hours and continue working. This process works in your black tank exactly like the home septic tank with two exceptions… • Your RV system is tiny in comparison (a home septic tank may hold 1,500 gallons or 5,700 litres) • You do not “dump” a home septic system so the chemicals work for months. Prevent odor… Toilet chemicals help control odors.
RV Toilet Paper The toilet paper designed for use in RVs is manufactured so that it “breaks down” or dissolves easily and rapidly. There are two different “messages” to look for on the packages of toilet paper that indicates it will be okay to use it in an RV. One, and the most obvious, is something like, “Safe for RV use” or similar statement. The other message is more subtle and is usually something like, 101
“Safe for Septic Systems.” The rule of thumb is that if the toilet paper is safe for use in home septic systems it will be okay in RVs. Toilet paper branded and sold specifically for RVs is available at many RV dealers, camping supply stores, and some retail stores. Wal-Mart also carries it. This paper is packaged and promoted specifically for RVs. One important note is that this “specialty” toilet paper is always higher priced than paper in the grocery store. However, since you do not need the specialty paper (assuming you buy the “Safe for Septic Systems” brands), you can save money by purchasing toilet paper at the grocery store for use in your RV.
Safety and Cleanliness… You will be working with raw sewage and you will get it on you. You can try the disposable rubber gloves but they will easily tear. Some people use the heavy, large rubber gloves. They work but you must still wash them to reduce bacteria. Most people simply use their bare hands and with practice, there is virtually no splash or spillage. Without question, the most difficult part of the whole sewage process is storing the sewer hose when getting ready to travel. It is drippy. It sometimes smells. It may have residue on it. Some RVers try to store it in a garbage bag but it will not dry out during the day. Most just coil it up and stuff the hose into the sewage compartment. Some RVs have a built-in black water tank “flush” system. If you can see the end of your black water tank then these fittings can simply be added to your tank. This is a method of cleaning the inside of the black water tank and should be done periodically. The flush system is made up of permanently mounted spray nozzles, inside the black water tank. You must hook up a garden hose to connect these nozzles to a faucet, turn on the water, and let it spray for a few minutes. Residual solids and paper are washed off the 102
tank walls and sensors. You may have to spray the flush system several times to achieve the best results. These flush systems do okay and help, but they are not perfect. While there are several models of RV toilets, one of the most common uses a moveable blade or ball valve, located at the bottom of the bowl, for flushing. To flush, step on the lever at the side of the toilet bowl. This causes the valve to open, flush water to start flowing, and the residue to drop into the black water tank. When you release the lever, the valve closes and seats into a groove. This seals the bottom of the toilet bowl and allows water to remain in the bowl between uses. While nearly a foolproof system, any residue lodged within the actual valve will prevent it from seating correctly. This will result in water leaking into the black water tank and allow odors to enter the RV. If necessary, soft residue must be cleaned from the valve immediately,. Use a standard toilet brush for cleaning this valve. Your RV should have grey and black water level indicator lights. Called “sensors,” these give you an indication of the volume in the respective tanks. Tank sensors typically are fitted through the wall of the tank and use a pressure reading or some electrical connection reading to determine the amount of liquid in the tank. Since they are physically located inside the respective tanks, they will become fouled, plug up, and stop working at some point— nearly all do. For our recommendation of tank sensors that cannot become fouled , read “Holding Tank Sensors” (p. 171). While black tanks more frequently require flushing and cleaning, grey tanks may accumulate grease and food waste from 103
dish washing. A thorough black or grey tank cleaning can be done in two ways… • Fill the tank, almost full, with hot water. This is impossible with the on-board water heater so you must connect a hose to a residential-size water heater. Drive around. The hot water will slosh around to loosen and clean residue. • Add 15–20 pounds (3–4 big bags) of ice cubes (not crushed ice) through the toilet. Add enough water to fill the tank about 3/4 full and drive around—preferably over bouncy roads. The ice cubes will literally abrade remaining residue. When the ice melts, you can drain the tank normally.
Wrap Up While some would say that dumping RV holding tanks is unpleasant, once you have learned the correct process as explained above you can file that thought as another myth and get on with enjoying your RV
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