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The outdoor lobby of the Rosewood Mayakobรก resort and the Casa del Lago restaurant overlooking the main pool and lagoon
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Maya, Inspired! A trip south of the border unearths a natural beauty at the Rosewood Mayakobá—the Mexicure for the same old Riviera Maya resort.
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exico: the blazing sunshine, the slow pace, the sense-awakening experiences. The mere evocation of its clear cerulean waters and white-sanded splendor lures its northern neighbors down for many a refreshing weekend getaway. But I, no doubt among many other fellow frequenters, have been searching for a departure from the typical sprawling resort—one a little more tucked away, but with the same lush scenery, impeccable service and jet-setting clientele. (A direct flight wouldn’t hurt either.) Just north of Playa del Carmen on Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula, reverie became reality at Rosewood Mayakobá, a five-diamond blend of gorgeous natural environs—think crystal-clear water, mangrove forests and exotic birds—with a white-glove version of the exotic vacation experience. Named the top luxury resort in Mexico by
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Travel & Leisure and the No. 1 non-U.S. golf resort by Condé Nast Traveler, the Rosewood property is hardly Mexico’s “best-kept secret.” Still, I felt like I’d stumbled on a hidden treasure when I finally ventured off familiar pathways to a resort so intimate it boasts just 128 suites—ranging in size from 800 to 3,200 square feet—each with scenic vistas of serene lagoons and quiet beaches stretching out to Caribbean seas. Situated on a mile-long arc of ivory sand, the Rosewood property is part of the 1,600-acre resort-enclave Mayakobá, located 40 minutes south of the Cancun airport, where all guests are met and chauffeured by SUV to the gated community. (Fairmont and Banyan Tree mark the other two properties here.) Oceanfront accommodations are prime property at any resort, but at Rosewood, a refuge of winding lagoons, they also pose the near impossible
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travel The infinity pool at the beach club
An indoor/outdoor spa treatment room
A deluxe island suite
The main pool at night
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decision: above-water deck or ocean view? Private beach chair or rooftop sundeck? Settling on a beachside suite meant that I missed the requisite boat drop-off that guests with a lagoon-view suite enjoy, but pangs of envy quickly gave way to pleasure when I laid eyes on my very own rain shower, living room, oversize tub and plunge pool, the temperature of which was controlled by my personal butler, Nick. He, along with all of Rosewood’s individually assigned suite butlers, was happy to assist with essentially anything to make complete relaxation the order of the day—and all those that followed. Although tempted to stay in the confines of my lovely suite for the entire trip, I found myself frequently drawn to the resort’s most popular spot: the beach club. Anchoring this buzzing area—home to a radiant infinity pool, all-day waiter service (complete with gratis sweet treats like sorbet and mimosas) and snooze-worthy lounge chairs—is the beautiful indoor-outdoor Punta Bonita restaurant, which serves light fare and Mexican cuisine for lunch, and familystyle regional specialties for dinner. Though I sampled many terrific dishes—the marinated pork and the turkey in mole sauce come to mind—the light shrimp salad was a definitive fave. Nighttime kicks into high gear at Punta Bonita’s open-air sib, the Agave Azul Raw Bar & Tequila Library, accessible from my beach suite via a 15-minute walk through well-lit paths or a quick zip by golf cart—a fleet of which cruises by every few minutes to shuttle guests here and there. Honestly, I typically steer clear of tequila for what I’ve always considered to be prudent reasons. But at Agave Azul, I gave in to the in-house tequila connoisseur’s spirited tour of Mexico’s finest. Now, thanks to quality spirits and a secret revealed— sip, never shoot—I’m a convert. A Mexican-fusion light-bites menu and premium cigars are great top-offs to pre-dinner celebrations. Next door at Casa del Lago restaurant—a hushed, candlelit setting overlooking the main pool—the atmosphere takes a tranquil turn. Dinner is a sumptuous exploration of contemporary European cuisine; in my case, delicious duck sautéed with portobello mushrooms and beef tenderloin with caramelized figs, goat cheese and shallots with garlic purée (delicioso!). Both the presentation and flavors cooked up at this restaurant—which also serves an à la carte and buffet breakfast each morning—rival any of the top concepts in the U.S. Feasting eventually leads to fitness, and fanatics will find further indulgences at Rosewood’s spa, Sense. Unlike anything I’ve experienced in Mexico—consider it a getaway from your getaway—the spa occupies its own mini-island, with treatment rooms situated in eight private huts. Rain presented an ideal opportunity to sequester myself in huge, always-open his-and-hers lounges, outfitted with both hot and cold dip pools, steam rooms, saunas, a juice bar, snacks and body scrubs. When it comes time to hit the gym, a top-notch workout room—complete with extensive cardio equipment (all with TVs), weights, snacks, water and an on-site trainer—accommodates. And travelers seeking solace from families with children will find it at the adults-only spa pool. 118
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travel A Night on the Town Located just 15 minutes from the Rosewood Mayakobá resort, Playa del Carmen is a charming little town packed with big-time restaurants, gift shops, bars and a bustling, stroll-worthy main strip. Here, tips on where to sip and savor. La Cueva del Chango Located one block off the main strip, La Cueva offers a lush backdrop where patrons feel like they are dining in the middle of the rain forest. All-natural Mexican fare (breakfast through dinner) and one-of-a-kind juices are restaurant specialties. lacuevadelchango.com
Deluxe overwater lagoon suites
A healer prepares for the Temazcal relaxation ritual.
The Casa del Lago bar
Sense’s premium spa menu covers the usual bases: facials, massages and custom body treatments. But for the truly life-changing experience—and a detoxifying experiment in how much extreme heat you can handle—try the Temazcal ritual, a purifying steam bath in a domed adobe structure, built to retain the warmth of heated stones and infusion of aromatic herbs. Outside air is ushered in every few minutes between ceremonial chantings in the pitch-dark space. As the heat rises, according to the Mexican healer leading the ritual, toxins are purged and pent-up anxiety is released. True to form, I felt light and pure for the next two days. Once rest is conquered, recreation begins. Any resort that hopes to compete with the hottest properties in the region—which is known for its quality PGA-pro-conceived fairways and greens—must also offer a stellar golf course. Rosewood delivers in spades: Don’t miss the Greg Norman-designed, 7,000-yard, 18-hole El Camaleón. This course, adjacent to the resort, meanders through the tropical landscape of the Riviera Maya coast and offers stunning views of the nearby sea. In 2006, El Camaleón made history by becoming the first Mexican course to host an official PGA Tour event. Those with higher handicaps, beware: I played the course with a friend, and, together, we lost about 10 balls—not terrible, considering it’s almost impossible to find wayward balls in the SeaIsle Paspalum grass rough surrounded by a grove of palm, ficus, oak and Geiger trees. After four days at Rosewood Mayakobá, home to a truly singular brand of paradise, I could hardly remember my life in the traffic-clogged city I’d left behind. Why shouldn’t this be my new full-time residence, this temple to luxury, with its singular, serene atmosphere and the staff’s smiling dedication to every creature-comfort under the sapphire Mexican sky? Or, if I really had to get back to reality, couldn’t I at least book another weekend in February? Apologies to my former resort partner, but this is no longer a monogamous relationship. –Korey Huyler j e z e b e l
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La Casa del Agua The internationally influenced La Casa invites guests to indulge in seafood dishes from around the world while taking in breathtaking ocean views from the rooftop garden. With more than 140 wines from 12 different countries, a world-class evening is assured. lacasadelagua.com Yaxche Maya Cuisine For a taste of the authentic, this is the place. Here, a combination of traditional Mayan recipes and ingredients— think banana leaves, the Chaya herb and xcatic peppers—and contemporary dishes are plated to perfection. mayacuisine.com La Ranita Known as the second home of many expats, La Ranita offers a relaxed bar experience complete with an extensive drink list and traditional Mexican-rustic décor. Grab a drink and enjoy live music from a comfy courtyard couch. ranacansada.com/bar-ranita.html Deseo Lounge Take the stairs to this chic, poolside bar, located atop an intimate 15-room hotel, where silent black-and-white films are projected on the side of a building and white sheer curtains billow above outdoor beds surrounding the pool. hoteldeseo.com –Suzanne Singer & KH