Best of Ireland Series - Dublin off the Dart Guide 2016 by Southern

Dublin DART THE BEST OF IRELAND Series

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

off the

Issue 3, 2016

Discover Dublin Bay & the City by Rail!

DUBLIN | off the DART

Howth Head

Editor: Bríana Walsh Contributing Writers: Bríana Walsh, Rosaleen Regan, Adam Leahy, Louise Harrison, Julianne Clarke, Matthew Faughnan and Rachael Finucane. Photography: Primary sources of photography include Fáilte Ireland/Tourism Ireland (Ireland’s Content Pool) and Shutterstock. See individual photos for more information. Copyright retained by photographers/organisations. 2|

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Contents

THE BEST OF IRELAND Series

Killiney Hill

Contents From the Editor

32.

Docklands

65.

Dún Laoghaire

Top 10 Things to Do

36.

City Centre

70.

Sandycove & Glasthule

DART Route Planner

48.

Dublin Bay - Rail & Sail

76.

Dalkey

Introduction

50.

Grand Canal Dock

80.

Killiney

10.

Skerries

54.

Lansdowne Road

82.

Bray

16.

Howth

56.

Sandymount

88.

Greystones

22.

Malahide & Portmarnock

59.

Blackrock

93.

Clontarf Road

Salthill & Monkstown

Dublin Bay: UNESCO Biosphere

28.

63.

94.

Useful Information

A Tourism and Marketing Initiative from Southern Marketing Design Media For enquiries about inclusion in updated editions of this guide, please contact 061 310286 / info@southern.ie

RRP: €3.00

No part of this publication may be reproduced without the written permission of the publishers. © Southern Marketing Design Media 2016. Every effort has been made in the production of this magazine to ensure accuracy at the time of publication. The editors cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions, or for any alterations made after publication.

Best Of Ireland Series

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FROM THE EDITOR

So many places SO MANY STORIES

ccording to French novelist Marcel Proust, ‘the real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes but in having new eyes.’ I hope Dublin Off the DART will help visitors to Dublin, as well as its natives, to see the capital and the greater Dublin area in a new light.

The DART is primarily seen as a commuter train and although it’s not a ‘tourist train’ in the conventional sense, it is a convenient, low-cost way to travel out to the greater Dublin area and for people on the outskirts to access and engage with the city. Whether you are visiting from another location in Ireland or abroad, the bustling city centre is just one part of Dublin. The suburbs, towns and villages of beautiful Dublin Bay have so much more to offer. With its recent UNESCO Biosphere designation, Dublin Bay has gotten due recognition for its unique natural and cultural heritage. There has never been a better time to experience it! Even if you are living in the capital for years or you are a true blue Dub’, ask yourself, ‘have I ever tried being a tourist in my own town?’ It can be a lot of fun to explore somewhere new and try something different. When people are abroad, a short train journey to the seaside or city is just a way to make the most of your break. It comes naturally. Why not consider using the DART for that change of scenery? The Best of Ireland series is founded on the principle that ‘every place has a story.’ This overall story is made up of many individual tales of things to do, places to see, restaurants, cafes, bars, accommodation, outlets and more. I have no doubt that we missed out on stories in this guide. I urge people to get in touch to let us know what we are missing so we can continue to improve this guide year on year. This project has been a very enjoyable journey and helped me to see the greater Dublin area with new eyes also. I would like to extend my deepest gratitude to all who have helped along the way with introductions, suggestions and revisions. I would like to extend a personal thanks to our contributing writers, our editorial and design team and the project directors at Southern Marketing Design Media. Happy DART-ing! Bríana Walsh

Best Of Ireland Series

10 10

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Top Ten

TOP

THINGS TO DO OFF THE DART

Pack in the sights from the Spire to the Molly Malone statue, the Guinness Storehouse to Dublin Zoo, Temple Bar to one of many Martello Towers … the list is endless!

Get a taste of Howth by browsing in its funky market, ordering delicious Dublin Bay prawns in one of the great restaurants and taking a boat across to Ireland’s Eye.

Explore Malahide, a picturesque village that retains its historic character with magnificent Malahide Castle, its traditional shop fronts and try touring it in a road train, called Toots!

4. Go south to delve into Dalkey where heritage really comes to life thanks to the historical re-enactments in Dalkey Castle, learn about Ireland’s great writers and pay a visit to one of the quaint harbours and Dalkey Island. 5.

Retrace the footsteps of writer, James Joyce, at locations like Sandymount beach and the James Joyce Tower & Museum in Sandycove.

6. Discover Dún Laoghaire’s refreshing sea air and stroll along the East Pier (with an ice cream or fish and chips in hand), look out on Dublin Bay from the Victorian bandstand and relax in the People’s Park. 7.

Let yourself be entertained. Take in an event like a sports match at Croke Park or Aviva Stadium, a play at one of the city’s many theatres such as the Abbey or a gig at a venue like the 3Arena.

Energise with an active pursuit whether it be hiking up Killiney Hill, kite surfing on Dollymount Strand, cycling in the city, swimming in Greystones, sailing in Dún Laoghaire and kayaking in Dalkey to name but a few.

Immerse yourself in history and art by touring the huge selection of museums and galleries, sites like Glasnevin Cemetery and exhibitions.

10. Shop ‘til you drop for gifts and souvenirs, take a walking/cycling/bus tour, socialise in a traditional pub and much more. Uncover a hidden Dublin Off the DART!

Best Of Ireland Series

Irish Rail/DART Route Map

SKERRIES HARBOUR

ROCKABILL LIGHTHOUSE

RED ISLAND

E SKERRIES VILLAGE

SAILING CLUB

SKERRIES MILLS

CAFÉ

MALAHIDE MARINA

CAFÉ

MALAHIDE VILLAGE PORTMARNOCK BEACH MALAHIDE CASTLE HOWTH LIGHTHOUSE FISH & CHIPS

CITY CENTRE

HURDY GURDY MUSEUM

PHOENIX PARK

HOWTH CASTLE

BULL ISLAND

O'CONNELL BRIDGE

HA'PENNY BRIDGE THE SPIRE

MOLLY MALONE

ST STEPHEN’S GREEN

BOOK OF KELLS

DUBLIN CASTLE

BAILY LIGHTHOUSE

PIGEON HOUSE

GRAND CANAL THEATRE

POOLBEG LIGHTHOUSE

DUBLIN BAY CRUISES

DUBLIN BAY

SANDYMOUNT BEACH OSCAR WILDE

DÚN LAOGHAIRE HARBOUR SEAPOINT

Discover by rail

Dublin Bay

LEXICON 40 FOOT JAMES JOYCE MUSEUM MARITIME MUSEUM ROCK CLIMBING DALKEY

KILLINEY HILL OBELISK

DALKEY ISLAND DALKEY CASTLE

KILLINEY BEACH

FI-23691-15

DUBLIN | off the DART

Introduction

Explore Dublin ... by Rail

ublin is a vibrant capital with a captivating coast. While the city on the Liffey is Ireland’s number one tourist destination for many reasons, Dublin Bay is also a mustvisit for holidaymakers from Ireland and abroad. Its recent designation as a UNESCO Biosphere, recognising its unique ecological and cultural status, highlights what a great experience visitors can enjoy here.

you. Or if you want something more relaxing, let the trendy cafes, mouthwatering seafood restaurants or cultural gems tempt you. Visitors can meet the locals at artisan food markets, at literary and artistic festivals or in the village pub.

The beautiful bay is like another world but yet, the charming coastal villages are within a stone’s throw of the city centre. Hopping on a DART train offers an escape from the hustle and bustle. Whether you go north or south on the line, it opens up a vast range of possibilities. An abundance of outdoor activities, seaside strolls and cliff top hikes await 8|

Best Of Ireland Series

The Dublin Area Rapid Transit (DART) system is primarily a commuter train line, bringing thousands of people to and from the leafy suburbs and seaside towns surrounding the city. But it is also an excellent way to enjoy a day trip without the worries of traffic jams and other pitfalls. You can simply hop on and hop off the train to see the sights. A section of the DART line, from the city centre to Dún Laoghaire, was the first railway in Ireland, opening in

December 1834. Since then the DART has evolved into a much more farreaching mode of transport and almost 16 million journeys were made on the DART in 2013.

DUBLIN | off the DART

Introduction

In this guide, we will show you a selection of must-see destinations around Dublin Bay that can be accessed with ease through the DART line which runs north to south. The train is ideal for families too, with plenty of novelty, space and comfort on offer. With this

GO NORTH, GO SOUTH, GET OUT AND ABOUT, DUBLIN BAY IS JUST WAITING TO WELCOME YOU

leisurely mode of transportation, the wider Dublin area is your oyster or Dublin Bay prawn as the case may be! You can enjoy a morning paddle and spot seals in Howth, explore a castle in Malahide, build up an appetite with an action-packed activity in Dún Laoghaire and have a delicious dinner in Dalkey all in one day if you like! The city centre and Dublin Bay are conveniently connected with unrivalled versatility of the DART. There is a wealth of cultural sites to explore as well as a lengthy list of shops, activities, eateries and traditional pubs to visit. You can get up close and personal with history through a visit to one of the many museums, galleries, heritage centres, castles, churches, cathedrals and historic buildings all over Dublin.

Aside from the oasis of fine parks and green spaces in the city centre, there is some stunning scenery further afield ranging from coastal vistas and beaches to gentle parkland and woodland. The east coast is renowned for its seafood and you can use the DART line to enjoy a meal in the one of the many eateries in the region. Or if you’d prefer to engage in a leisurely round of golf or go sailing or horse riding, there are many options. There is truly something for everyone, visitors young and old, to experience. Whether you are looking for adventure or your aim is to relax, each town and neighbourhood has a different character, flavour and speciality. Off the DART there is a whole new Dublin to get to know. Go north, go south, get out and about, Dublin Bay is just waiting to welcome you. With 31 stations spanning 53 kilometres, the options are endless. The only question is: Where do you want to go? Best Of Ireland Series

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Skerries

INTRODUCING

Skerries

town with the feel of a village, Skerries is set in a beautiful seaside location in Fingal. It has a vibrant atmosphere, a fascinating history and is easily accessible using local rail services direct from Connolly Station or a combination of that and the DART.

The name Skerries (‘Na Sceirí’ in Irish) translates as ‘the rocks.’ Skerries, like many Irish locations, was invaded by the Vikings so it is thought the name’s origins also derive from the Norse ‘skirrs’ or ‘sceir’ meaning ‘sharp rocks.’ People have inhabited Skerries for about 8,000 years. It has five islands off its coast including Colt, Shenick, Rockabill, St. Patrick’s and Red Island (a tied island). All of them have interesting features from the 12th century church on St. Patrick’s Island to the Martello Tower on Shenick to the lighthouse and abundant bird population on Rockabill. Red Island was known for its holiday camp, which had its heyday in the 1950s and 1960s. It is believed that in 431 AD Pope Celestine sent St. Patrick as the first bishop to Irish Christians and that he landed on an island off Skerries in 432. From here, he would go the mainland to 10 | Best Of Ireland Series

Skerries Harbour

convert the people. This island is named in his honour and the existing church in the town is also dedicated to the saint. Other notable features in the town include Ardgillan Castle and Demesne, Baldungan Castle and Skerries Mills. Ardgillan Castle and Demesne has 78 hectares of parkland overlooking the Irish Sea as well as a fabulous view of the Mourne Mountains. As well as the ‘castle’ (which is more of a manor

house), there is a walled and rose garden. The park is open to the public. Since the 12th century, flour has been milled at Skerries Mills. The complex, fully restored by Fingal County Council, is now a major tourist attraction and is open 7 day a week showing the authentic workings of a 19th century mill including two different windmills, a water mill and bakery. Skerries has also always been very industrious, from its guise as a thriving fishing port and a centre of hand embroidery to a resort town and commuter area for Dublin city. It has two beaches, one is a stony beach to the north near the harbour and another is on the long, sandy South Strand. Skerries is built around two long streets, Strand Street and Church Street. There are many bars, restaurants and cafes in the town centre and a variety of local festivals and events all year round. Community spirit is very strong here with a wide variety of sports clubs and local organisations. It even has its own news outlet in the form of the fortnightly publication, Skerries News. Skerries is the ideal escape for a day trip or holiday with lots to enjoy at any time of the year. www.visitskerries.ie

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Skerries

fast facts Tern to Rockabill

Rockabill Island has the largest numbers of breeding roseate terns in Europe (around 1,200 pairs). This colony is thought to account for more than 75% of the European population. These sea birds generally appear from April to October. They are around a foot long with narrow, pointed wings, a long forked tail and a long, pointed bill. The beaks are dark but develop a red base when breeding.

SKERRIES & ST. PATRICK

St. Patrick

Ireland’s patron saint, St. Patrick, has a close historical connection with Skerries. Legend has it that the Pope send him to Ireland and the saint landed on an island off Skerries in 432 from which he would travel to the mainland to preach Christianity. A colourful local story about St. Patrick is that he arrived on the island with a goat to provide milk. While the saint was ashore, the natives of Skerries went to the island and stole his goat. They killed and feasted on it but when St. Patrick returned to find his goat missing, he got very angry.

Holiday Spot Skerries was once the site of the successful Red Island Holiday Camp, established in 1948 by the Quinn family. The camp was popular in the 1950s and 1960s but it gradually declined in popularity and closed in the 1970s. The ballroom was used as a music venue, hosting acts like Thin Lizzy and Horslips. All the buildings were demolished in the 1980s and Red Island is now a local amenity area.

He reached the mainland in just two giant strides, the ﬁrst step took him to Colt Island and the second to Red Island. When he confronted the people, they tried to deny the wicked deed but found the beast cried out from their bellies. Only when they told the saint the truth did their voices return. To this day St. Patrick’s footprint, where he stepped on to the south side of Red Island, can be found in the rocks. There is also a tradition of making a secret wish when putting three ﬁngers (a shamrock) into the water in the footprint. To be dubbed a ‘Skerries Goat’ means that you truly belong to the town! St. Patrick’s Island is so called because he is thought to have founded a monastery here that stood until the Vikings arrived in 797 and burned it. In the 13th century, the Archbishop of Dublin directed that the monastery move to the mainland. There are still ruins of an early 12th century church on the island. They say that if you look through the last remaining window frame that you’ll see the silhouette of a bishop.

Bikers’ Paradise Skerries has long been associated with motor cycle racing due to the Skerries 100. The race, organised by the Loughshinny Motor Cycle Supporters Club, is held in the local area every year on the first Saturday in July. The inaugural race was on Saturday 6 July, 1946. Riders speed around the roughly 4.7 kilometre circuit. © jultud

Street side of the same site. The original church’s belfry was left standing and is now the bell tower for the existing church. Today, there is a leaflet and map available in the local tourist office for St. Patrick’s Way, a walking trail around the town. © Skerries Mills

The Catholic church in the town, also called St. Patrick’s, was consecrated in 1939. It replaced an earlier incarnation on the Church Best Of Ireland Series | 11

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Skerries

SO MANY SIGHTS & PURSUITS

Skerries

THE SCENERY IN SKERRI ES WOULD MAKE ANYON E WANT TO GET OUT AN D ABOUT There are two beaches in Skerries, north and south of Red Island. Both are good for walking, paddling and swimming. The sandy south beach, which has a Blue Flag, is around 2.5 kilometres long. It has public toilets, with access for the disabled, and there is a lifeguard on duty during the summer season. There is a coastal walkway running along the two beaches. This 1.2 kilometre cove-like north beach adjoins the harbour. There is a playground and a car park at Red Island. There are two Martello Towers in Skerries, one on Red Island and one on Shenick Island. These are two of around 50 structures around Ireland’s coast built by the British in the early 1800s to defend against a possible Napoleonic invasion. Some of the towers have been converted into museums or private dwellings. The tower on Red Island was actually used as a ballroom in the 1920s. Little is known about the past uses of the tower on Shenick. They are both currently closed to the public. There is an imposing Carnegie library, opened in 1911, in Skerries town centre (01-8491900). The building has a decorative gabled front façade with central tower. The interior retains the 12 | Best Of Ireland Series

original staircase. To the front there is a striking limestone sculpture of three seals by Paul D’Arcy. The ruins of Baldongan Church and Tower is a national monument located between Lusk and Skerries. The 13th century castle (thought to have been constructed by the Knights Templar) is completely gone. The church, built in the 15th century, has a 21 metre high fortified bell tower. If you like to play golf, Skerries Golf Club (01-8491567) is a championship 18 hole parkland golf course. Founded in 1905, it is renowned as a challenging course with spectacular coastal views. www.skerriesgolfclub.ie With the sea nearby, water sports and activities are popular in Skerries. Outdoor Dublin (01-8493333) offers classes locally in stand up Paddleboarding (SUP’ing), kayaking and surfing. The company also runs RLSS lifeguard courses, summer camps and caters for parties of all types and corporate team building. www. outdoordublin.com Skerries Water Sports Academy (0862257434) provides tuition in kayaking,

SUP’ing, kite boarding and windsurfing to all age groups and abilities. Skerries also has a vibrant sailing club. Dinghy and keelboat racing for adults and juniors with Skerries Sailing Club (018491233) takes place up to three times a week in season. www.skerriessailingclub.com Skerries Sea Tours (086-3043847) runs two passenger trips daily to Rockabill Lighthouse (1 hour, 15 mins) and Lambay Island (2 hours). Custom tours are also available. The trips are run by local RNLI crewman Eoin Grimes, aboard an 8.4 metre Redbay Rib. The boat can carry seven passengers (and one crew member). www.skerriesseatours.ie The scenery in Skerries would make anyone want to get out and about and there are a variety of cycling and walking routes on www.visitskerries.ie, as well as lots of other tips for visitors.

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Skerries

So Many Landmarks & Celebrations Visit ...

Enjoy ...

Shop ‘til you drop and then some with a range of fantastic independent boutiques in Skerries. Whether it is women’s, men’s or kid’s fashion you are after there is a shop for you to bag a bargain. There is Philann’s (087-2070272) on Strand Street for the ladies and Shankey (01-8495149) for men on the same street too. The Frock Exchange (087-25398632) on Hand Street has stunning pre-loved designer wear and The Shoe Horn (01-8490847) will have the perfect pair of shoes to finish off the look. Wizz Kids (0872070272) have the best in children’s clothing and The Bubble Room (01-8029855) is a lovely independent toy store with gifts and gadgets for everyone.

Discover ... Ardgillan Castle and Demense (1890–5334), located between Balbriggan and Skerries, is a great place to pass a pleasant afternoon. The 18th century castellated country house has some beautiful period furnishings and antiques. The house overlooks the coastline and the estate boasts miles of walking paths with sea views as well as manicured lawns, a rose garden and a herb garden. After smelling the roses, you can pop into the tearooms. Tours are available (groups welcome) and there is also a playground. www.ardgillancastle.ie

432

The year St. Patrick reportedly landed on Church Island (now known as St. Patrick’s Island).

349

There are several annual festivals and events in Skerries. For motorcycle racing enthusiasts, there is the Skerries 100 (July) and the Killalane Road Races (September), both organised by Loughshinny Motor Cycle Supporters Club (www. loughshinnymotorcycleclub. com). Bringing a range of concerts, recitals, workshops, sessions and street music, the Skerries Traditional Music Weekend takes place in mid-May (www.skerriestraditionalmusic.com). The Skerries Sailing Club Regatta is on in July (www.skerriessailingclub.com). The Skerries Water Festival in June celebrates water sports in many of its forms along with family activities, barbeques, markets and more (www.visitskerries.ie). In September, the Skerries Soundwaves Festival promises lots of ‘diverse music and arts experiences’ from live performances to street entertainment (www.skerriessoundwaves.com).

Ardgillan Castle

Skerries in

The number of lives lost when the ship, Tayleur, was wrecked at Lambay Island on its maiden voyage from Liverpool to Australia in 1854.

Numbers 1537 2 The year the Priory of Holmpatrick was dissolved upon the order of King of England, Henry VIII, and its 1,000 acres of land given to John Parker.

The number of windmills at Skerries Mills. The smaller of the two has four sails and the Great Windmill has five sails.

9,671

The urban population of Skerries, according to the 2011 Census.

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SKERRIES

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GUESTHOUSE

Skerries

Red Bank House

RedBank House

5-7 Church Street, Skerries 01-8491005 www.redbank.ie Founded in 1983 by Terry and Margaret McCoy, the Red Bank takes its name from the former local bank that occupied the building; the old bank vault is now the wine cellar. The restaurant is known for its intimate and relaxed atmosphere. The RedBank has won many awards for its fine food. Terry is an avid supporter of local producers and suppliers and uses their products in the restaurant

ACTIVITES

Skerries Sea Tours

Skerries Sea Tours 086-3043847 www.skerriesseatours.ie

Running two passenger trips daily, local RNLI crewman Eoin Grimes captains the 8.4 metre Redbay Rip. Set sail across Dublin Bay to Rockabill Lighthouse, Lambay Island and Skerries Islands to see a host of sights and sea creatures. The tours offer a unique and stunning view of the local bird and wildlife as well as a guide on local history, culture and heritage. Learn all about the fascinating history of 600 acre Lambay Island and its importance 14 | Best Of Ireland Series

in new and exciting ways. From local vegetables to delicious brown bread and farmhouse cheese, there is always something to excite the palate on the menu.

DINING OUT Stoop Your Head

AN AVID SU PPORTER OF LOCAL PRODUCERS AN D SU PPLIERS In 1997, the McCoy’s extended the restaurant to incorporate a boutique hotel. This 18 room hotel boasts individually decorated en-suite rooms with all the comforts of home. RedBank house also caters for small and intimate weddings with a limited number of rooms and a choice of menus as well as accommodation packages for your party. If you wish to know more about RedBank House check out the website listed above for special offers and a look at the tasty menus on offer.

as a breeding site for grey seals, a colony of deer and wallabies! On nearby Rockabill, the lighthouse constructed in 1855, still stands proud. The island itself holds a colony of roseate terns, common terns and arctic terns. Of the three Skerries islands, Shenick’s island is a bird reserve managed by the Irish Wildbird Conservancy.

TOURS OFFER A UN IQU E AN D STU NN ING TOUR OF TH E LOCAL BIRD AN D WI LDLIFE You can see all this and more with Skerries Sea Tours. The boat can carry seven passengers and one crew member, is fully insured and licenced with the Department of Transport. Tickets can be purchased directly by calling Eoin on the number above or using the booking form on the website.

Stoop Your Head Harbour Road, Skerries 01-8492085 www.stoopyourhead.ie

A family-run seafood restaurant and bar, Stoop Your Head offers stunning views across the bay to watch the fishing boats as they move in and out of the harbour. Stoop Your Head is a busy restaurant that operates a waiting list instead of reservations, such is the popularity of this restaurant.

LET TH E HEROES OF EACH DISH SH IN E This popularity comes as no surprise when you see what seafood delights await on the menu. From Rockabill crab to moules marnièr, calamari, cod, and the not to be missed house speciality dublin bay prawns, the menu is an ocean of taste. Meat lovers will also enjoy the Irish fillet steak, free range chicken and eggs sourced from Hackett’s Family Butcher. There are also options for vegetarians. The dishes may seem simple, but this is to let the heroes of each dish shine and to champion the local produce. This is echoed in reviews from Paulo Tullio, The Dubliner, Georgina Campbell and the Bridgestone Guide. You can’t ask for a better recommendation than that! Get in early and get your name on the waiting list and while you are waiting, enjoy a drink by the bar as boats drift by in Skerries harbour.

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Skerries

Skerries Mills

Skerries Mills 01-8495208 www.skerriesmills.ie

Ever want to see a working five sail windmill in action? Well you can get up close and see the wheat on its journey from seed to baking at Skerries Mills. Learn how our ancestors harnesses wind and water energy to make flour with a tour guide who will tell you all about the history of milling and Skerries Mills. Along the way you can try your hand at stone-grinding flour, watch the water wheel in action and take a stroll through the crop field. You can even go inside the four sail and five sail Great Windmill which can be seen from miles around and then visit a 19th century bakery.

PLAYS HOST TO EXHIBITIONS, FAIRS, CONCERTS AND OUTDOOR PERFORMANCES This tradition of home-made food continues in the Watermill Cafe and

Willow Terrace in the Mills Complex where you can enjoy a tasty fresh scone or some fresh food to satisfy any palate and any wallet too. Able to seat up to 80 people, the terrace can also seat 76 people so you won’t be long waiting for a seat. The cafe and terrace can cater for private parties after hours and there is a full wine and bottled beer licence. Saturday at Skerries Mills is market day and from 10am to 4pm you can peruse the stalls holding everything from free range eggs to jewellery. Skerries Mills plays host to exhibitions, fairs, concerts and outdoor performances throughout the year so be sure not to miss out on any exciting events. There is also a Community Room in the loft available for rent on a half or full day basis. Suitable for classes, meetings and workshops the room is open all week. Once you are fed and found the gift and souvenir shop awaits. Stocking a variety of products Skerries Mills stock the best Irish made and supplied goods, space is often reserved for local craftspeople. Among such treasures you can find pottery, jewellery, hats, scarves, knitwear and candles from local brands

such as Colm De Rís, Rathlin Knitwear, Max Benjamin, John Hinde, Tinnakeenly Leathers, Silver Spirit and Fingal Linen. The Courtyard is home to a number of local craftspeople and food producers. At Edward Cooke’s studio you can learn the art of silversmithing and jewellery making. Skerries Art School offers art classes for small kids and big kids alike in media ranging from pottery to

ceramics, decoupage, drawing and painting. Karen Wilson’s art studio showcases her stunning paintings. At the Stash Cupboard there is a variety of handmade items to be found and Molls Palour will surely have something to satisfy the sweetest tooth! Skerries Mills also stock Annie Sloan chalk paint. With so much to discover and explore, make a day of it and venture out to Skerries Mills. Best Of Ireland Series | 15

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Howth

Howth Harbour Lighthouse

Howth F STOPPING BY

or a day by the sea with lots of entertaining extras, get the DART out to Howth. This harbour village in north Dublin is a soughtafter address and is popular with visitors from Dublin and further afield in summer.

The Howth Peninsula offers splendid panoramic views over Dublin Bay and looks out on to Ireland’s Eye. It is home to a working harbour, marina, two lighthouses and historic attractions include a Martello tower, a castle, an old abbey and a portal tomb. The neighbourhood has a variety of terrains including coastal paths, rocky hills and woodland. It has a large SAC (Special Area of Conservation) making it a nature haven and is ideal for hikers and birdwatchers.

year. There are numerous award-winning restaurants in the area and you can get your fill of the finest fish fillet or whatever seafood dish you prefer. Pubs are a plenty should you be looking for a pint and there are numerous B&Bs if you decide to stay over. You won’t be stuck for things to do here either. Go sailing, take a boat trip or kayak to Ireland’s Eye. Go sea angling for a fish supper or watch the professionals come in and out of the harbour. Go walking around the hills and take in the stunning views out across the sea and down along the east coast. Visit the museums, including the National Transport Museum and the

GO WALKING AROUND THE HILLS AND TAKE IN THE STUNNING VIEWS OUT ACROSS THE SEA

Seafood is in no short supply here and you are guaranteed the freshest catch with trawlers unloading in the harbour regularly. The region is home to the Dublin Bay Prawn and celebrates the crustacean with a special festival every 16 | Best Of Ireland Series

Museum of Vintage Radio or go golfing at the large complex in the grounds of the castle. There’s also an open market by the harbour at the weekend. Howth is called ‘Binn Éadair’ in Irish. This name has pre-Christian origins when the Celtic tribes called this peninsula ‘Ben Edar,’ the mountain or hill of Edar, possibly after a chieftain of the Tuatha De Danann. It may also have come from ‘Benn na Edar’ meaning ‘Hills of the Oaks.’ The English name Howth comes from the Vikings who invaded in the 9th century and called it ‘hoved’ meaning head. Over the years this came to be Howth. Discover what Howth is really about; visit it yourself. www.howthismagic.com

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Howth

fast facts

Howth Head

Pirate’s Welcome In 1576 the pirate Gráinne O’Malley was turned away from Howth Castle on a courtesy visit. In retaliation she abducted Lord Howth’s grandson and heir. Her ransom? A promise that unanticipated guests would never again be turned away nor would the gates of Deer Park be closed to the public. An extra place is still laid at the table for meals.

Harbour Silting In the early 18th century, Howth was the chosen harbour for the location of the mail packet (postal service ship). Advocates of Dún Laoghaire said that coaches might be raided ‘in the badlands of Sutton’. The service eventually was relocated to Dún Laoghaire because of repeated harbour silting, not stealing.

Restless Spirits Howth is home to some ghostly goings on. Restless spirits include a three year old and her father who were washed out to sea back in the 1800s. Howth Castle is haunted by an albino rat that warns the owners of imminent dangers.

Must-See VIEWS & HISTORY Howth Head offers amazing panoramic views of Dublin Bay and the islands of Ireland’s Eye and Lambay. It has a number of peaks including the Ben of Howth, the adjacent Black Linn (the highest point at 171 metres), Dun Hill and Shielmartin with the nearby Bog of the Frogs. Howth Head has 230 hectares in a designated Special Area of Conservation (SAC) and 21 kilometres of right-of-way paths for the public to enjoy the great outdoors. The Hill of Howth was once the base of legendary Fionn MacCumhaill and his men, Na Fianna.

Howth Castle and its estate, Deer Park, cover 180 hectares near the village. The ancestral home of the line of the Earl of Howth, it’s now held by their heirs, the Gaisford St. Lawrence family. On its present site for over seven centuries, the original was on Tower Hill. The estate has parkland, forest and the largest rhodedendron gardens in Europe. The castle is not open to the public but the kitchen hosts the Kitchen in the Castle Cookery School. The grounds hold the Deer Park Golf Complex, the National Transport Museum of Ireland and a collapsed dolmen known as Aideen’s Grave. Visit www.howthcastle.ie.

Howth Abbey

Howth Abbey, or St. Mary’s Abbey, on Abbey Street was built in 1042 by Sigtrygg, King of Dublin. It was replaced by an abbey about 1235 before the present church was built in the late 14th century. It was modified in the 15th and 16th centuries and the St. Lawrences of Howth Castle also modified the east end to act as a private chapel with a burial tomb. Baily Lighthouse, built around 1814, is on the south-east corner of Howth Head known as Bail(e)y. The first lighthouse was built here around 1667 by Sir Robert Reading. Baily was the last Irish lighthouse to go automatic in late 1996 with the last of the keepers leaving in March 1997. In 2000, a small museum was established by the Commissioners of Irish Lights, including small artefacts gathered from retired staff. This museum does not have a set opening schedule. Contact 01-2715400 or www.cil.ie for more details. Best Of Ireland Series | 17

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Howth

Experience the Place

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lW ta oas C h t How

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A walk around Howth Harbour will clear your cobwebs and is an easy stroll if you’re not ready to tackle the hills. It is a working fishing harbour so you might see trawlers unloading as well as tour boats that go to Island’s Eye. It also has a large marina for recreational boating. You might spot a seal as they are plentiful in the harbour area (but please make sure not to feed them). The small cove of Claremont Beach nearby is also a lovely spot for walking and paddling. Brave souls sometimes bathe here too although it is quite shallow at low tide and quite high when the tide is in. It has a lifeguard station during the summer. The sea air has been known to work up an appetite and there are a variety of pubs and restaurants nearby.

Fa rm ers’ Ma

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A journey well worth taking, the Howth Coastal Walk was recently awarded a Trip Advisor Certificate of Excellence. The walk starts at the carpark of Balscadden Bay (a few hundred metres east of the village). From here, a path leads up and around the Nose of Howth and onto the cliff tops. If you continue uphill, there are excellent views of Lambay Island and Ireland’s Eye (be careful on the cliff edge) and a slight detour to the south takes you to Baily Lighthouse. At the highest point of the walk (171 metres), you will reach the Ben of Howth, marked by an ancient burial cairn. The path then returns downhill to Howth Village. In total, the walk is 7 kilometres and takes 2-3 hours. Alternatively, instead of returning to the village you could continue on the cliff path until you come to Sutton and then take either the DART or the No. 31 bus back to Howth. For more information on this and other local walks see www.fingaldublin.ie.

Howth Farmers’ Market is on from 10am–5pm every Saturday, Sunday and Bank Holiday Monday opposite Howth Harbour. The number of stalls varies week to week but there are typically about 40 stalls with a wide variety of produce from fresh fruit, organic vegetables and local fish to homemade chocolates and handmade jewellery. Amble around and you will find lots of delicious fare ready to eat such as barbequed prawns, sausages and venison. There are lots of international influences too, with a Malaysian food stall, a crêperie and a Mediterranean stall and many more. Artisan sweet treats abound too. For more information, phone 01-8394141 or see www.howthmarket.ie.

Howth in Numbers

819 900

230

1959

The year the Vikings invaded Howth.

The distance in kilometres from Howth Village to Dublin City Centre.

The number of hectares in the SAC Special Area of Conservation located here.

The year the doubledecker tram, running since 1901 over a five mile route, ceased operation.

The number of rifles landed at Howth by Robert Erskine Childers for the Irish Volunteers in June 1914.

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Howth

Abbey Tavern

28 Abbey Street, Howth 01-8390307 www.abbeytavern.ie Welcomes await you at the Abbey Tavern traditional Irish pub, restaurant and entertainment venue situated in a unique 16th century location. Constructed originally as a seminary for the monks who were attached to the original chapterhouse, the Abbey Tavern is owned and run by the same family since 1944. Today the elegant bar reflects its heritage with cut stone walls, flag stone floors and blazing turf fires. Ideal for when the weather isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t being kind. A culture of entertainment grew up around the founding of the Abbey Singers who performed here first in 1962, since then the Abbey Tavern has hosted traditional Irish shows and is renowned for hosting many famous Irish entertainers from The Dubliners to Christy Moore and Imelda May. Other famous faces such as Princess Grace of Monaco, John Wayne and Pierce Brosnan, to name a few, have experienced the great hospitality at the Abbey Tavern. The Abbey Tavern traditional Irish night has been running for over 50 years and is one of the most popular sights in all of Howth. The Abbey Tavern is now run by the fourth generation of the same family and continues to provide excellent customer service, entertainment and top notch food and beverages. Where possible, the food is locally sourced with the fish coming from the local harbour just 500

yards from the door. Have a taste of the Howth Harbour chowder or the buffalo chicken wings. The lemon sole goujons are not to be missed or have a taste of some traditional Irish cuisine such as a twice-cooked Irish lamb shank or gourmet pork and look sausages. If you would prefer something a little lighter there are gourmet sandwiches, pasta and vegetarian dishes aplenty. Make sure to leave room for dessert!

To wash it all down there is a fine range of draught or bottled beer and cider, whiskey and spirits to choose from. You will not go without at the Abbey Tavern!

RU N BY TH E FOURTH GENERATION OF TH E SAME FAMI LY AN D CONTIN UES TO PROVIDE EXCELLENT CUSTOMER SERVICE

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Howth

A WEALTH OF THINGS TO DO

In Howth

ACTIVITES

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Deer Park Golf Course

Ireland’s Eye Ferries

National Transport Museum Visit the National Transport Museum of Ireland (01-8320427) in the grounds of Howth Castle at the Heritage Depot (entry via gates to Deer Park Hotel). Some 60 vehicles including buses, lorries, trucks, fire engines, military vehicles, trams and tractors from across more than a century are currently on display, the newest dating to 1984. The restored Hill of Howth No. 9 Tram is also on display. www.nationaltransportmuseum.org

GASTRO PUB

The Bloody Stream

Howth Railway Station, Howth 01-8395076 www.bloodystream.ie The Bloody Stream is an engaging mix of quaint and contemporary with a unique atmosphere and craic on tap. Located just below Howth DART Station, it gets its macabre name from the stream over which it was built— which ran red after a battle in the Norman invasion in 1177. The pub has an abundance of exposed brick and cosy nooks and crannies with traditional touches like an open turfburning fireplace, wood paneling, classic signage and Irish memorabilia. 20 | Best Of Ireland Series

Play Golf at the Deerpark Go golfing at Deer Park (01-8322624), Ireland’s largest golf complex offering a variety of courses set in 180 hectares of parkland and overlooking the sea. Courses include two 18-hole courses, two 9-hole courses, a full length 12-hole par three short course, a championship 18-hole pitch and putt course and a large putting green. www.deerpark-hotel.ie/Golf

It serves food seven days a week and the extensive a la carte menu includes dishes like chicken wings, bruschetta, golden fried calamari & tiger prawns, fish cakes, Beef & Guinness stew, the Stream Irish beef burger, seafood bake, steaks, grilled fillet of cod, seafood platters and more.

QUAINT AN D CONTEMPORARY WITH A UN IQU E ATMOSPHERE AN D CRAIC ON TAP The pub offers late opening Friday to Sunday and for music fans, there are live Acoustic Sessions every Saturday night and a DJ on Sunday nights. The Bloody Stream also has a large beer garden to take in the sun and sea air and you can reserve several areas for all types of functions.

Ireland’s Eye Ferries West Pier, Howth 086-0773021 www.irelandseyeferries.com

Ireland’s Eye Ferries run boat trips to Ireland’s Eye. With four generations of experience offering boat trips and operating fishing vessels, you will be in safe hands aboard one of their vessels, the blue boats, Pinalia and Christmas Eve. Boats are fully licensed and equipped with modern safety equipment. There are two options for your excursion to Ireland’s Eye, you can take a scenic trip around the island to see the birds and seals; duration is approximately 40 minutes.

EXPLORE AT YOUR LEISU RE TH E SITES AN D SANDY BEACHES OR CLIMB TO TH E TOP OF TH E ISLAN D Alternatively, land on the island and explore at your leisure the sites and sandy beaches or climb to the top of the island and see the nesting seabirds (landing is not always possible in certain tidal conditions). We depart every hour between 11am and 5pm daily from the end of the West Pier (opposite Aqua Restaurant). Advance bookings can be made at bookings@irelandseyeferries.com or by phone on the day. The scenic trip costs €10 per adult and €5 per child and the landing trip costs €15 per adult and €5 per child. Also on Facebook at: www.facebook.com/IrelandsEyeFerries

DINING OUT

Howth

Aqua Restaurant

Aqua Restaurant 1 West Pier, Howth 01-8320690 aqua.ie

Take some time to meander the West Pier of Howth (first left after exiting the DART Station). The working boats may be docked, depending on the time of day, and there are always local seals adding to the charm of your stroll. At the very end of the West Pier is Aqua Restaurant, a first floor dining room with stunning views over Howth Sound and Ireland’s Eye. There are excellent deals for lunch and Early Bird daily.

DINING OUT

Deep Restaurant

Deep Restaurant 12 West Pier, Howth 01-8063921 www.deep.ie

Deep Restaurant has been specialising ‘in all things fish’ since 2004 and has developed a few signature dishes that you simply must try when in Howth. The early bird menu, two courses from a choice of 12 starters and 12 mains for only €24, runs from 12–9.30pm Monday to Friday and 12–6.45pm on Saturday (not available Sunday). With such an extensive menu the only

Since December 1999, the restaurant has served seriously good food in a room with a view; salads come from their kitchen garden on Howth Hill and lobster from local waters.

TH E Á LA CARTE MENU IS EXTENSIVE WITH CU LINARY DELIGHTS SUCH AS CARLI NGFORD OYSTERS Sample dishes include crab salad and smoked salmon, surf and turf or whole Dover sole on the bone. The á la carte menu is extensive with culinary delights such as Carlingford oysters, chargrilled tuna or Black Angus fillet. Menus are seasonal and change often, visit aqua.ie/menus or follow them on Facebook for special offers and giveaways. For more information, email offthedart@aqua.ie or visit aqua.ie. problem is where to start. Regulars recommend the Deep calamari and for the non-fish eaters, well, the chicken wings practically fly out of the place. The focus at Deep Restaurant is on fresh, seasonal and sustainably sourced ingredients. Apart from fish, beef, chicken and vegetarian dishes, there’s also a pasta, risotto and catch of the day.

SPECIALISI NG IN ALL TH INGS FISH If you’re overwhelmed with options, try one of their signature seafood platters. A children’s menu, party menu and extensive wine menu are also available. Deep also does breakfast Saturdays, Sundays and bank holiday Mondays from 10am–12pm.

GASTRO PUB

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Wright’s Findlater Cafe Bar & Restaurant

Wright’s Findlater Cafe Bar & Restaurant Findlater House, Harbour Road 01-8324488 www.findlater.ie

Howths most prominent iconic building home to The Asgard restaurant on the first floor. A contemporary bar and restaurant serving the finest seafood and steaks, quality wines, cocktails and a selection of Irish whiskeys. Ideal for all functions, weddings, christenings, birthdays you name it. Wrights Findlater offers the best views of Howth harbour and Irelands Eye across its 3 floors. The relaxing feel of the place puts visitors instantly at ease. Upon entering, you are greeted by décor echoing a stylish Parisian cafe serving some of the best cocktails in town to accompany the no-fuss bar food. The first floor is The Asgard restaurant at Findlaters, ‘north Dublin’s finest grill,’ where guests are treated to a menu packed with the freshest, locally sourced ingredients. From seafood to steak, the menu is diverse and delicious prepared with flair by chef partner, Ciaran Brown. Dishes include Dublin Bay prawns, roast corn-fed chicken, seafood grill, hake, fish and chips, three different cuts of steak and more. The top floor Sky Bar has breathtaking views of Howth Harbour and Ireland’s Eye and is especially suitable for functions, meetings and more. The venue opens late on Fridays, Saturdays and bank holiday Sundays with DJs spinning every weekend.

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Malahide & Portmarnock

DISCOVER

Malahide & Portmarnock

he neighbouring areas of Malahide and Portmarnock (both have their own DART stop) offer a wealth of seaside vistas, sandy beaches and exciting things to do from exploring castles to putting on the greens of a championship golf course.

The picturesque village of Malahide combines an old-world feel with modern conveniences. As you stroll down cobbled streets, you can satisfy your appetite whether you crave heritage, great cuisine or lively entertainment. Situated 16 kilometres north of Dublin by the Broadmeadow Estuary and the Irish Sea, Malahide (translated as ‘the sandhills of the Hydes’) has a rich history, with evidence of first settlers around 6,000 BC. St. Patrick visited in 432 AD, followed by the Vikings in 795 AD and then the Danes settled there the late 9th century. The last Danish King of Dublin, McTurkill, retired to Malahide in 1171 but was executed for rebellion and his lands were given to Sir Richard Talbot, a Norman Knight who built the first stone castle in Malahide around 1250. The village developed around the castle and by the nineteenth century, it was well known for its safe harbour and many successful local industries developed around the sea. A visit to

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and both kite and wind-surfers. This beach has a special place in aviation history. It was the starting point for two pioneering flights, the 1930 flight of Australian aviator, Charles Kingsford Malahide Castle and Gardens is a must Smith and his crew on the second, and the Toots road train ferries visitors westbound transatlantic flight to around many other sights. circumnavigate the globe, and in 1932 British pilot, Jim Mollison, undertook the first solo © Tiramisu Studio westbound transatlantic flight. The renowned Portmarnock Golf Club is based at the sandy peninsula to the south of the village and dates back to 1894. In the 1990s another links course designed by German golfer, Bernhard Langer, was added. The challenging course, one of Ireland’s best, has hosted Portmarnock is on the coast between tournaments such as the Irish Open. Malahide and Baldoyle. The name Both Malahide and Portmarnock translates as ‘the port of St. Marnoch (or overlooking the Irish Sea have an Mernoc).’ Excavations have revealed abundance of amenities and a strong traces of settlers from Neolithic times local community. and the remains of a ring fort are visible For more information see from the air to the south of the village. www.malahide.ie and Portmarnock’s beach, nicknamed ‘the www.portmarnockwaves.com. Velvet Strand’ for its smooth stretch of sand, is popular with walkers, bathers

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Malahide & Portmarnock

MALAHIDE CASTLE & GARDENS Malahide Castle & Gardens

NT AN D HISTORIC MALAHI DE CASTLE IS A MAGN IFICE TH E BEAUTIFUL 12TH CENTURY CASTLE LOCATED ON HEART OF TH E NORTH COAST OF DU BLIN IN TH E MALAHI DE PICTU RESQUE SEASIDE VILLAGE OF The castle is a short stroll from Malahide DART Station. Set on 260 hectares, Malahide Castle is one of the oldest castles in Ireland and was owned by the Talbot Family for almost 800 years. It is one of Dublin’s top visitor attractions today. The castle is steeped in history and has many fascinating stories of the descendants who lived here. On entering the castle, visitors have the opportunity to browse through the interactive interpretive area on the ground floor, retelling the history of the Talbot family, not forgetting their ghostly residents! Castle tours are carried out by informative and friendly guides daily. Visitors are guided through the historic reception rooms on the first floor including the magnificent ‘Great Hall’ where banquets are often catered for. Up the sweeping staircase are the beautiful bedrooms which overlook the vast parkland and West Lawn. Portraits from the National Portrait Gallery of Ireland adorn the walls throughout the castle which adds to the castle’s rich history and culture.

Just along the pathway from the castle is the Visitor Centre, which lies adjacent to the castle and opposite the old abbey. At the centre is where visitors can learn and explore the facinating history and geography associated with the unique and wonderful botanical gardens through an interactive exhibition area. A ticket to visit Malahide Castle also includes admission to the famous Talbot Botanic Walled Garden. Here, gardening enthusiasts and visitors can learn about Lord Milo Talbot’s passion for gardening and travel. Lord Milo was responsible for bringing new and exciting species of plants from the southern hemisphere, creating this uniquely charming botanical garden for visitors to enjoy some peace and tranquility!

delicious seasonal dishes made mainly from locally sourced ingredients. Avoca also hosts a wonderful range of gifts and of course, a colourful range of their famous hand-woven throws. There’s something for everyone! Malahide Castle and Gardens are open daily from 9.30am–5.30pm. The last guided tour of the castle is at 4.30pm and from 3.30pm November to March. Admission rates: Adult €12, Child €6, Student €8.50, OAP €7.50 and Family Tickets from €30. Book online at www.malahidecastleandgardens.ie. or contact the reservations team on 01-8169538 or reservations@shannonheritage.com.

The Avoca Store and Cafe, also located in the visitor centre, is the perfect place to enjoy some time out with a selection of freshly made Avoca salads, gourmet sandwiches and Best Of Ireland Series | 23

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Malahide & Portmarnock

HEAPS TO DO In Malahide

Malahide beach is just a 10 minute walk from both the village centre and the DART station. The 2 kilometre stretch is popular with bathers and water sports enthusiasts as well as walkers. This beach has a lifeguard during the summer months and is accessible for those with disabilities. The Velvet Strand stretches all the way to Portmarnock and it boasts views of Lambay Island, Howth and Ireland’s Eye. You can also enjoy the 4–5 kilometre Malahide to Portmarnock Coastal Walk, which is on a footpath with parkland on one side and the beach on the other.

One of the most prolific water sports in the area is sailing. Malahide Yacht Club (www.myc.ie) runs training courses for all age groups and levels of sailing experience. It is unique among sailing clubs because it has two separate sailing waters and clubhouses, one for dinghies and one for cruisers. Fingal Sailing School (01-8451979; www.fingalsailingschool.ie) specialises in lessons not just for sailing but also windsurfing stand up paddleboard and kayaking in the sheltered water of the estuary. Swords Sailing & Boating Club (01-8454686 www.swordssailing.ie) is a family friendly centre that runs Irish Sailing Association courses for beginners to advanced sailors. The club has an extensive fleet for training and hire. DMG Sailsports (01-8456946) is another water sports training centre, teaching power-boating, windsurfing and sailing at all levels. Facilities locally include Malahide Marina (01-8454129), which has 350 berths and excellent quality facilities in the services building for visiting clients and members. www.malahidemarina.net Malahide Golf Club (01-8461611), founded in 1892, has a beautiful 27 hole course, offering challenges to suit every level of player. The elegant 24 | Best Of Ireland Series

ach

Malahide Be

clubhouse is enhanced by stunning views of Howth Head and the Wicklow Mountains. www.malahidegolfclub.ie If you’re looking for a revitalising walk, Malahide has several coastal and inland walking routes. Malahide Castle Demesne Sylvan Trail is a perimeter walk covering a 4.5 kilometres fraction of the sizeable 109 hectares estate. There are various wooded and grass field paths, unmarked forest paths, trails demarked by cut grass and wooden exercise points in the demesnes. Watch out for wildlife including rabbits, birds, squirrels and even the occasional fox. Malahide Marina

The Robswall Park Hillside Hike mostly takes place in the 90 acre park and is accessible from the Malahide to Portmarnock Coastal Walk. There are numerous trails in the hillside facility, all with spectacular views. For the 7 kilometre Broad Meadow Estuary Stroll, head west out of Malahide and the walk continues to Seabury and onto Swords. There are excellent views of the inner estuary. Look out for sails and swans alike! For more information, see www.enjoymalahide. com/home/things-to-do/malahidewalks. Commenced in 1837, St. Sylvester’s Church was constructed on the site of an earlier small thatched chapel. The church has several notable features including a steeple (added in 1901), some striking stained glass windows and a stunning, hand sculpted marble high altar. The working church has regular services and events. www.malahideparish.ie

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Malahide & Portmarnock

Toots: The Malahide Roadtrain Malahide DART Station 086-3858753 www.malahidetrolley.com

Toots, the classic Italian crafted novel road train, is one of the most well-loved and recognisable activities in Malahide. With its red, silver and white trimming, Toots can be seen zooming all over Malahide putting a smile on faces as it whizzes by. The family-owned and operated business has put down firm tracks in the community since its maiden voyage in June 2013. Toots is a multi-award winning service receiving the Malahide Chamber of Commerce, ‘Malahide Has It!’ award as well as becoming the number one family activity in Fingal and ranking among the top two things to do in

Malahide, along with the Castle and Garden, on TripAdvisor. Toots also achieved a coveted ‘Certificate of Excellence’ with TripAdvisor. Both Toots and founder, Michael Place, are known to spread much joy throughout the village with the live guided commentary on all there is to know about Malahide along the way. A little known fact about Toots is that the happy little engine was named by the local primary school children of Malahide. The fully inclusive and Doorto-Door Toots trips last 40 minutes in total which now includes the world-famous Castle ‘drive by’ through the woods via the west lawn. Toots routes include a showcase of the award-winning village, a modern village with an ancient heart via the beautiful Marina area along the Victorian terraces before turning onto the picturesque coast road including a stop at its beautiful beach; a starting point for a beautiful coastal walk to the celebrated Gourmet Food Parlour! Then returning via the iconic Grand Hotel and the heart of the village they call the ‘diamond’ before entering the VIP entrance just for Toots via the northern drive. Don’t forget your Toots’ ticket has

a special discount stickers allowing visitors to avail of many discounts across Malahide including Malahide Castle & Gardens, Avoca, Beshoff’s, Tony Byrnes Menswear, Macaris’ and many more. Opening hours are 10.15am to 5.30pm weekdays and 6pm on weekends. Ticket price is €6 adult, €5 student/senior and €4 child with €15 family (2 adults and 2 children) or €20 (2 adults and 4 children).

Toots: The Malahide Road Train

Special bookings can also be made for birthdays, anniversaries, school trips and all other occasions. Platform 2 in the station is served with a wheelchair lift to platform 1 and into the main forecourt of the station where Toots sets down. The wheelchair lift on board Toots also serves buggies and strollers. Winning hearts and minds, one journey at a time! Toot toot! Best Of Ireland Series | 25

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Malahide & Portmarnock

Inbetweeners... This guide has 20 featured stops but the DART line itself has 31 stations, with some connecting to other suburban commuter lines too. There are highlights outside of the featured stops and these ‘Inbetweener’ stops, separate to the guide’s sections, outline some of these. If you refer to the rail route planner on page 6, you will get an idea of their locations.

The stations of Malahide, Portmarnock, Clongriffin, Howth Junction and Donaghmede connect to the northern suburban line, which continues in the direction of Louth and goes all the way to Belfast. Stations on that line include the coastal town of Donabate, located on a peninsula between Rogerstown Estuary and Broadmeadow Estuary. It has a great beach and five golf courses nearby. Newbridge Demesne is within walking distance of Donabate. The estate consists of around 150 hectares of gently undulating pasture and woodland. It is now a public park, playground and model farm. Its centrepiece is the fine Georgian mansion, Newbridge House. Portrane (around 1 kilometre from Donabate) has a beach too and in the grounds of St. Ita’s Hospital in the village is a 30 metre modern round tower erected in 1843 by Sophia Evans of Portrane House as a memorial to her husband, George. 26 | Best Of Ireland Series

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Gilbert & Wright (Living Room) 1 Ross Lane, Malahide 01-8456580 www.gilbertandwright.ie

Gilbert & Wright aims to be a ‘friendly neighbourhood bar’ and with its funky retro décor and relaxed atmosphere, it’s a great spot to drink, dine and dance. Inside the impressive stone building, the vibe is seventies inspired in the music playing, the artwork on the walls and touches like the couches and shag pile carpets.

IT’S A GREAT SPOT TO DRIN K, DIN E AN D DANCE This watering hole welcomes a broad mix of clientele with its delicious cocktail menu, drinks promotions and regular events, such as the ever-popular ‘Afterwork Party.’ The friendly staff members are part of the charm. Entertainment takes the form of live music and DJs every weekend (and the occasional week night) as well as screenings of major sports events and more. The food menu is informal, bistrostyle food and the star of the show is the pizza menu, where all the pizzas are served in a box and have quirky names like ‘Say Cheese’ and ‘When in Rome’ and ‘Go Fish.’ The bar caters for functions of all kinds too. Casual, fun and vibrant, Gilbert & Wright promises a memorable experience all in the comfort of the Living Room!

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Malahide & Portmarnock

Get to know Portmarnock! Enjoy ...

Discover ...

Portmarnock Golf Club Portmarnock is a world class spot for golf. Portmarnock Golf Club (01-8462968) has a superb 27 hole course which is ranked at number two in Ireland’s Top 100 courses 2015 and 2016 by Golf Digest Ireland. The championship course, located on the sandy peninsula to the south of the village, first opened in 1894, and another fine links course designed by renowned golfer Bernhard Langer, was added in the 1990s. It has played host to competitions like the Irish Open and the Walker Cup and Bernard Darwin said of the course, ‘I know of no greater finish in the world than that of the last five holes at Portmarnock.’ www.portmarnockgolfclub.ie If you want to combine a few rounds with a luxury break away, the four star Portmarnock Hotel & Golf Links (01-8460611 www.portmarnock.com) offers superb facilities including the Oceana Spa.

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Like many of Dublin’s coastal settlements, Portmarnock has a Martello tower from the early 19th century located at the start of the coastal walk to Malahide. These structures were built by order of the National Defense Act of 1804. The story goes that the British attacked a French headland ck M ar on Cape Martello in Corsica tel lo T ower in 1794 and were so impressed with Napoleon’s defense system that they replicated the towers in Britain and Ireland. o

Get Active ... Portmarnock Sports & Leisure Club (01-8462122) on Blackwood Lane offers facilities such as a swimming pool, a gym, a sports hall, indoor and outdoor courts and more. There is a packed schedule of classes, seasonal activity camps and it can also host events and functions. www.pslc.ie Portmarnock Beach

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Boasting dual Blue Flag and Green Coast status, Portmarnock beach is nicknamed the ‘Velvet Strand’ because of its 5 kilometre stretch of smooth sand. For this reason, the beach is popular with windsurfers and kite-surfers, as well as bathers and walkers. It also has expansive sand dunes. The path running alongside the beach leads to Malahide and is used by many people on a daily basis. It has lovely views of the Dublin Mountains and Howth Harbour. The beach has a lifeguard in bathing season and public toilets.

olf Club

Behold ...

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Portmarnock Beach

Malahide & Portmarnock in

15846 1990

The year Malahide The population of Malahide according won the National to the 2011 Census. Tidy Towns Competition.

795 19 The year AD that the Vikings landed in what is now Malahide.

The number of times Portmarnock Golf Club has hosted the Irish Open Championship.

Numbers 23

The date in June 1930 Charles Kingsford Smith and his crew took off from Portmarnock Strand on the second, transatlantic flight circumnavigating the globe.

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Clontarf Road

NEXT STOP

Clontarf Road I

n the pleasant spot that is Clontarf, you can stroll down the promenade by the sea and take in spectacular views of Dublin Bay, the Wicklow mountains and the Irish Sea.

Clontarf attracts many people including nature enthusiasts, history lovers, foodies, fitness fanatics, families and sports fans … the list goes on! Whatever the length of your stay, you’ll find great hospitality in local B&Bs, hotels, bars and restaurants. Steeped in history, Clontarf or ‘Cluain Tarbh’ meaning ‘meadow of the bulls,’ was a major Celtic settlement until the 9th century when the Vikings invaded the area. This incursion led to the famous Battle of Clontarf in 1014. The momentous battle is seen as marking an end to the Irish-Viking Wars. Its 1,000 year anniversary was marked with many events in 2014. Around a century after the battle, the Normans arrived here. In 1172, Hugh de Lacy, Lord of Meath or his tenant, Adam de Phepoe, built a castle in Clontarf. This changed hands many times in the centuries that followed, most famously in the 1640s when its owner joined a rebellion against Oliver Cromwell. Cromwell subsequently seized the castle and awarded the estate to a new owner, John Blackwell. No trace of the original structure remains. Clontarf Castle (the current building dates back to 1837) has

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also held many guises over the years but is now a luxury hotel. Clontarf grew significantly as a suburb of the city in the 19th century and benefited from the addition of a tramline along the TH coast. In 1835, Sir Benjamin Lee Guinness, of the noted brewing dynasty, purchased lands in Clontarf and Raheny and combined them to form St. Anne’s Estate (most of which now encompasses St. Anne’s Park). This park spans over 109 hectares of parkland and also has a multitude of sporting and other facilities.

years, it has only increased in popularity as a neighbourhood and adjoins the likes of Marino, Killester and Raheny. The attractive area has many amenities, from Dollymount Strand to Bull Island, which was designated as a national nature reserve in 1988.

Participation sports are well serviced in Clontarf, along with rugby, GAA, soccer, tennis, cricket, hockey, kitesurfing and badminton clubs. There are also three golf clubs and a yacht and boat club. Clontarf has regular events throughout the year including an annual festival (generally held in summer), fundraisers, sports fixtures and much more.

A MAJOR CELTIC SETTLEMENT UNTIL THE 9 CENTURY WHEN THE VIKINGS INVADED

Clontarf is the birthplace of renowned Irish author, Bram Stoker, who wrote the spine-tingling novel, Dracula. From actor, Barry Fitzgerald to Erwin Schrodinger, many well-known individuals have lived or currently reside here. Over the

Clontarf has much to recommend it just come and see for yourself! www.clontarf.ie

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Don’t Miss! NATURE & HISTORY Clontarf Road

As you stroll around Clontarf you could be walking in the very same footsteps of Brian Boru and the Viking warriors, as you are in fact, walking on the site of the Battle of Clontarf which took place on Good Friday 1014. The battleground stretched from Ballybough Bridge to Glasnevin, beginning at dawn with the arrival of hundreds of Viking ships at Clontarf strand. Thousands lost their lives. By evening, the Norse were compelled to retreat to an area between Casino in Marino Castle Avenue and Seaview Avenue and were pushed downhill towards the sea, where they were either slain or drowned.

Earl of Charlemont, is a treat for architectural enthusiasts. The Casino, meaning ‘small house,’ appears from the outside to be a single roomed structure but in fact contains 16 rooms on three floors, a basement with a kitchen, a main floor with reception rooms and a top storey with servants’ rooms and a State Bedroom. It also has beautiful plasterwork ceilings and elaborate hardwood parquet floors. Four of the columns which surround the building are hollow and the Roman funerary urns on the roof are in fact chimneys, not just decorative embellishments. www.heritageireland.ie/en/Dublin/ CasinoMarino

The picturesque Fairview Park, situated beside the Tolka River, was created in the late 1920s and is renowned for its stunning seasonal bedding displays. It also has playing fields, a playground and beautiful tree-lined walkways. There is an interactive Unit play section, The imposing 18th © National Monuments Service Photographic century neo-classical a skateboard Casino in Marino, area, plenty which was designed by Sir William of seating and a 400 metre athletics track Chambers for James Caulfield, the first where you can test your sprinting skills.

Clontarf

fast facts Clontarf Island

An island called Clontarf Island used to exist at the mouth of the Tolka River. The island was used as a refuge from plague in 1650 but construction work on the Great South Wall and the Bull Wall changed the flow of water and the island was engulfed.

St. Anne’s Park, located between Clontarf and Raheny, is the second largest municipal park in Dublin with a fantastic range of facilities. Named for an ancient holy well in the area, the 109 hectare park has a fairytale feeling to it as you wander among the trees and flower displays. Discover the awardwinning rose garden, the walled garden, which includes a 12 acre herbaceous garden with a beautiful clock tower and follies (buildings created purely for decoration) like the Herculanean Temple near the duck pond. There are nature/walking trails, a dedicated dog park, a playground, 35 playing pitches, St. Anne’s Park 18 tennis courts and even a par three golf course. The complex housing the Red Stables Art Centre also has the Tír na nÓg Caife. There is a Saturday market (9am–5pm) on here too. Bull Island Nature Reserve was made a bird sanctuary in the 1930s, then a national nature reserve in 1988 and it is also listed as a biosphere reserve by UNESCO, now expanded to include Dublin Bay. In 1986, an interpretative centre was built on the island in order to teach people about the wildlife. With more than 180 different bird species, 300 plant species and six mammal species such as the Irish hare, European rabbits, brown rats, red foxes, hedgehogs and field mice, Bull Island is a must-see for nature lovers. It is linked to Clontarf via a wooden bridge at Dollymount.

Easter Island

Horse-trams

The promenade in Clontarf has a replica statue of the Easter Island heads, a diplomatic gift from the Chilean Ambassador to Ireland. The Chilean Embassy is located in Clontarf.

Long before the DART arrived, residents of Clontarf travelled to the city centre via horse-tram. This service was initiated between the centre and Dollymount in 1880 and was later electrified in 1898. This convenient transport link was one of the main reasons why so many people settled here in the late 19th century. Best Of Ireland Series | 29

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Clontarf Road

A HOST OF THINGS TO DO In Clontarf

Kite surfing is a regular activity on Dollymount Strand. Exciting to watch and thrilling to take part in, Dollymount’s endless flat sands, panoramic sea views, strong easterly onshore breeze and shallow waters make it kite surfing paradise. Pure Magic (018054912) runs lessons and its instructors go the extra mile to ensure your experience is ‘fulfilling and memorable.’ The company also provides stand up paddleboarding (SUP) lessons. www.puremagic.ie Visitors can also swim at Dollymount, but it is best to do so when the tide is in unless you want to walk a good distance to reach the water. Fore! Or should I say three? Clontarf is home to three superb golf courses. The Royal Dublin Golf Club (018336346), established in 1885, is the second oldest in Ireland. The par 72 seaside links course spans 7,200 yards with plenty of testing features. www.theroyaldublingolfclub.com St. Anne’s Golf Club (01-8336471), also links with, two signature holes, the 7th, one of the most difficult par 4 holes in the country, and the par 3 17th, rated by Padraig Harrington as one of the best par 3s in Ireland. www.stanneslinksgolf.com Clontarf Golf Club (01-8331892), established in 1912, has a magnificent clubhouse built in 1781, which was originally a private residence known as Donnycarney House. This is a short parkland course with challenging narrow fairways. www.clontarfgolfclub.ie Westwood Leisure Centre (01-8530353) is a one stop shop for fitness fanatics. Along with an Olympicsize swimming pool (50 metre), 25 metre pool and 25 metre kids’ pool, it has an array of tennis courts and classes, personal trainers, 30 | Best Of Ireland Series

The Royal Dublin

Golf Club

fitness classes, a supervised fit-zone area for children and teens or for those who just need to relax there are luxurious beauty and spa facilities. www.westwood.ie

MIC DOLLYMOU NT’S ENDLESS FLAT SAN DS, PANORA EZE AN D SEA VIEWS, STRONG EASTERLY ONSHORE BRE ADISE SHALLOW WATERS MAKE IT KITE SURFING PAR

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Clontarf Road

Immerse yourself in the area! Discover ...

Get Active ...

Irish author Abraham (Bram) Stoker, most famous for his Gothic novel, Dracula, was born in 15 The Crescent, Clontarf in 1847. Castle Dracula (01-8512151), a new exciting evening visitor experience in Clontarf, allows people to combine a tour and theatre as characters from the book come alive to tell you their stories and that of the vampire, Count Dracula. You are led through various spooky rooms and tunnels before ending up in Ireland’s (and possibly the world’s) only ‘Graveyard Theatre.’ Castle Dracula is located behind the Westwood Club; it is not suitable for anyone under 14 or people with certain medical conditions. www.castledracula.ie

Behold ... If you want to experience the arts in Clontarf, check out a performance at the Viking Theatre (087-1129970) situated upstairs at Connolly’s The Sheds at 198 Clontarf Road. It hosts an array of plays, music gigs, stand-up comedy and more. www.vikingtheatredublin.com The Clasac Regional Resource Centre (01-8363060) is based at Alfie Byrne Road. Run by Comhaltas Ceoltóirí Éireann, it promotes Irish culture through classes offered in Irish music, singing, dancing and language, which take place from September to May. The comfortable 340 seat theatre hosts performances of traditional Irish music and dancing throughout the year. www.clasac.ie

1014

The year of the Battle of Clontarf, where Brian Boru defeated the Vikings.

Clontarf Promenade which is 3 kilometre long and up to 40 metres wide is very popular with runners and walkers. With plenty of seating if you tire you can take in the stunning views of Dublin Bay, the Wicklow mountains, the Irish Sea and the distant city centre. The cycle track that also runs along the prom’ offers an extremely safe environment for cyclists of all levels. For more experienced cyclists, the route expands to take in Howth and Sutton peninsula. The track is about 2 metres wide with a tarmacadam finish over a mostly flat area. Clontarf Yacht & Boat Club (CY&BC) (01-8332691) was established in 1875 when Sir Arthur Edward Guinness became the first president. There is a lot of pride that some club members have attained national championship status, but the club is equally keen in welcoming and encouraging new members who they will train in the sport and hope will join in the active social calendar of the club. www.cybc.ie

Clontarf in

Numbers 1847 55000 40000 2008 The year Bram Stoker was born in Clontarf.

The price in pounds that Dublin Corporation paid for St. Anne’s park and mansion in 1939.

The number of birds of various species that winter at Bull Island every year.

The year Clontarf Scout Troop turned 100, the first active scout company to reach this age.

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Docklands

Docklands ALIGHT AT

he Dublin Docklands district is a massive area consisting of 526 hectares of land on both sides of the River Liffey. When the Vikings invaded Ireland in the ninth century, Dublin’s importance as a port started to grow.

Step back in time to the 19th century docklands where thousands of men were employed on a casual basis as labourers and carters on the docks. Sailing ships were sometimes weeks in port slowly offloading their cargoes. The owners of more expensive steamships were anxious to load or unload ships fast so they hired a large number of casual labourers. The strong seafaring tradition among docklands families still survives today. If you were to take a walk along the quays in those days, you would also spot coal merchants bringing coal to homes throughout Dublin. The working conditions in the docklands were harsh. There were often two to three men for every job and injuries were common. These tough conditions sparked industrial disputes; the most famous being the ‘1913 Lock Out’ led by Irish trade union leader and socialist activist, James Larkin.

Attractions include premier entertainment venue the 3Arena (formerly the O2 Arena and the Point Depot) and notable structures such as the Convention Centre, which plays host to international conferences and other events. It features a glass-fronted atrium which runs the full height of the building and gives visitors spectacular views of the River Liffey, Dublin city centre and the Wicklow mountains. There are umpteen things to see and do here.

Typical industries along the docklands included fertiliser and manure companies, flourmills, as well as a joinery plant and a sugar refinery. Goods were then transported throughout Dublin and Ireland via the canal system. However, after World War II, the number of jobs in the Docklands decreased significantly with the rise of container There are also lots of wonderful traffic and the switch from rail to road restaurants and watering holes to be transport. Coal was a less important found in the Docklands. The restaurants, source for fuel and this gave rise to cafes and bars cater to the varied tastes fewer coal merchants. Most of the older of the hungry visitor. www.ddda.ie factories closed and much of the docks area fell into dereliction. Convention Centre Thanks to a revival starting in the nineties, the Docklands is thriving again today with many cosmopolitan buildings, bustling workplaces and apartment blocks.

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No shortage of Docklands BIKES & BOATS fast facts DUBLIN | off the DART

Docklands

Custom House The 18th century Custom House was nearly destroyed in the War of Independence in 1921 when the Dublin Brigade of the IRA attacked it and set the building on fire. It burned for five days, leaving only the shell.

North Bull Wall The construction of the North Bull Wall to prevent sand building up in the mouth of the harbour resulted in the creation of modern Bull Island. When the wall was finished in 1842, sand gradually accumulated to make the island.

The Samuel Beckett Bridge The Samuel Beckett Bridge, linking Guild Street on the northside of the city with Sir John Rogerson’s Quay on the southside, was delivered to Dublin by barge from Rotterdam in Holland. The 1,011 kilometre journey took around five days. The bridge was opened in 2009.

Dublin Discovered! Boat Trips (01-4730000) offer the visitor an alternative way to explore the Docklands and its historical sights as well as seeing quite a bit more of Dublin ‘differently.’ The tour travels along the River Liffey just as the Vikings did in their longboats over a millennium ago. The informative guides give visitors a good insight into the history of the Docklands and Dublin itself. The tour leaves from a landing station at Bachelors Walk. Cruises operate daily with a journey time of about 45 minutes. www.dublindiscovered.ie

For real water-babies and those looking for a fun day out Sea Safari (01-6689802) offers a lot. It runs a Dublin Bay Port Tour, departing from outside the Convention Centre on North Quay and also from the Poolbeg Yacht Club in Ringsend. The tour outlines the history from the 17th and 19th centuries up to the present and also of the surrounding docks on the River Liffey and the port area. To go further afield, the Dublin Bay South Tour leaves from Poolbeg Marina. Tour sights include Lambay Island, Dalkey Island, Ireland’s Eye, Howth and Killiney Bay. School tours and corporate events are a specialty. www.seasafari.ie

Famine sculpture

Cycling is a fun way to see Dublin city and for keen cyclists Dublin Bikes offers a great bike rental scheme. The Dockland and quays area has many stations for the self-service bike rental scheme (for those 14 years of age and over). Visitors can enjoy the city at a leisurely pace and return the bike whenever it suits to one of the close to 50 bike stations spread throughout the city. A three day ticket is available for just €5 and can be purchased from a credit card enabled terminal at a bike station. This ticket can then be used to rent or return a bike from any Dublin Bike station. An annual card is just €20. www.dublinbikes.ie There is a poignant memorial, Famine, on Custom House Quay. The statues, designed and crafted by Dublin sculptor, Rowan Gillespie, commemorate the Great Famine of the mid-19th century. They were commissioned by Norma Smurfit and presented to the city in 1997. During the famine approximately one million people died and a million more emigrated from Ireland. This location is particularly appropriate because one of the first voyages of the Famine period was the vessel, ‘Perserverance’ which sailed from Custom House Quay on St. Patrick’s Day, 1846. East of the statues lies the World Poverty Stone, a commemorative stone by artist, Stuart McGrath, which marks the United Nations International Day for the Eradication of World Poverty (17th October). Best Of Ireland Series | 33

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Docklands

DELIGHT YOURSELF IN THE Docklands

The Jeanie Johnston Famine Ship

DS IS WELL THE INDUSTRIAL HERITAGE OF THE DOCKLAN OF ATTRACTIONS DOCUMENTED BUT NOW IT HAS A VARIETY CONCERT IN THE FORM OF ON E OF IRELAN D’S MA JOR REPLICA VEN UES, A UN IQU E MUSEUM ON BOARD A AREA. FAMINE SHI P AN D EXCELLENT WALKS IN THE The 3Arena (01-8198888) is one of Ireland’s premier venues to go to for live entertainment, situated in the heart of the Docklands on North Wall Quay and just a 20 minute walk from the DART stop. It has a capacity of over 14,500 and hosts the best in national and international music, comedy and other events. In 2011, this venue was named as the fifth busiest arena in the world. Information on events is available at www.3arena.ie and tickets are available from 0818-719 300 and www.ticketmaster.ie. The Jeanie Johnston Famine Ship (01-4730111) is a must-see for history fans (located on Custom House Quay but only five minutes away from Connolly DART station). This unique museum is on a replica of a real ship that made 16 emigrant journeys to North America between 1847 and 1855, carrying over 2,500 people with no loss of life. It allows visitors a chance to see what

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conditions were like on board for the millions who left Ireland in the Great Famine to seek a better life across the Atlantic. It is also an ocean-going sail training vessel. www.jeaniejohnston.ie

The Royal Canal is a great place for walks. It was built originally in 1817 for carrying freight and passengers and although it fell into disrepair, much of it is now restored for leisure purposes. There are various walks along the Royal Canal in Dublin. You can amble any distance but for a brisk four hour walk (18 kilometres), you can start at Newcomen Bridge on North Strand Road, a few minutes from Connolly Station, and continue all the way to Cope Bridge in Kildare, where you can catch a bus back to the city centre. To go further afield, take the Royal Canal Way. The 144 kilometre hike/cycle takes

in Dublin, Kildare, Meath, Longford and Westmeath along grassy towpaths, gravel and tarmac canal-side roads in some cases. You can walk certain sections and return to your start point or progress on to a later stage using trains or buses. For more detailed information, see www.irishtrails.ie.

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Docklands

520

The number of hectares of land making up the Dublin Docklands Development Area.

Docklands in Numbers 40 1796 54 600 The span in metres of the Spencer Dock Bridge.

The year the original Custom House Dock opened.

Height in metres of the tilted glass cylinder in the Convention Centre Building.

The approximate number of businesses in the Docklands area.

Lots of

Events & Festivals Taste ...

Discover ...

For a gourmet experience, why not stroll around the Central Square Gourmet Food Market? This market is held every Wednesday from 11.30am–2pm, offering fresh food and stalls featuring all the flavours of the world. Located in the lovely Central Square Park in Spencer Dock (to the rear of the National Convention Centre), you will find many local residents and workers at this market. www.irishvillagemarkets.ie/markets

Oktoberfest Dublin takes place in the autumn in the Docklands at George’s Dock (15th September – 2nd October 2016). This festival brings a taste of Germany to Ireland. Visitors to this festival enjoy German fun, food and entertainment as well as real Bavarian beer, of course. The sound of Bavarian brass and dance music add to the authentic nature of this festival. www.oktoberfest-dublin.de

er at W

The beautifully restored CHQ Building is home to a range of food outlets and shops. Options for coffee The Point Village, close to the 3Arena, has played host breaks, lunch and dinner include TOSS’D to a skating rink the past few years. It has various Noodles & Salads, The Bakehouse sessions throughout the year, including the festive Express, Starbucks, J2 Sushi & season. www.pointvillageonice.ie Tea, Insomnia Coffee Company, There are other events in the Seven Wonders and ely bar & Docklands throughout brasserie. You can pick up a the year, from small rare vintage at Mitchell & Son community affairs Wine Merchants and shop like coffee mornings the finest menswear or get and book sales to measured up for a customfun on a larger scale made suit at Louis Copeland like the Waterways and Sons. CHQ also has its Ireland Docklands own farmers’ market on Fridays Summer Festival, held 11am–6pm, offering a delectable w ay annually over a weekend in May. choice of sweet and savoury goods sI rel al an Further information can be found on and much more. CHQ also plays host dD stiv o c k la n er Fe m m d u s S www.docklandssummerfestival.com. to launches and other corporate events. www.chq.ie Best Of Ireland Series | 35

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O’Connell Street

City Centre

NEXT STOP

City Centre D

ART trains alight at three city centre stops: Connolly Station, Tara Street and Pearse Street. Whether on foot or using the excellent transport links like the Luas light rail system and bus routes, visitors can reach a multitude of interesting sights and attractions.

Connolly Station was opened originally in 1844, when it was known as Amiens Street Station. It has since developed into one of the most important railway stations in the country, serving dozens of routes and catering for enormous numbers of passengers every day. It is well-known for its striking exterior and the Italianate tower located in the centre is a particular focal point. The station itself has a colourful history. It took a direct hit from a German bomb in 1941. In 1966, the station was renamed Connolly Station, in honour of the Irish freedom fighter, James Connolly who was executed after the 1916 rising. Connolly Station is very conveniently located for making transport connections, with its own Luas stop and the Busáras station located nearby too. During the 1990s, the station was completely revamped, making the station hall area much more spacious and adding a cafe and bar.

Tara Street is named after Tara, the home of the ancient High Kings of Ireland. It has a firm place in historic events including the Easter Rising and the former base of the Dublin Fire Brigade was located here. Tara Street’s railway station dates from 1891. The Pearse Street DART Station is located on Westland Row in the heart of the city, The thororoughfare is also steeped in history. Irish revolutionaries, Patrick and William Pearse were born at 27 Pearse Street and this is where the street gets its name. Both brothers were executed for their role in the Easter Rising in 1916. The street was formerly called Great Brunswick Street. The DART station itself has an interesting heritage. It opened in 1834 as Westland Row Station and was the city terminus of the Dublin and Kingstown Railway, the first commuter line in the world. The station was renamed in 1966 after the Pearse

VISITORS CAN REACH A MULTITUDE OF INTERESTING SIGHTS AND ATTRACTIONS

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brothers, as part of the Easter Rising 50th anniversary celebrations. The street is one of the longest streets in Dublin and is flanked by College Street at its western end and the world famous Trinity College at its southern side. In the following section, a multitude of things to do and see in the city centre will be outlined, from museums to galleries, heritage sites to monuments, theatres to shopping. There is something for everyone in Dublin’s ‘Fair City!’ www.visitdublin.com

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City Centre

Connolly Station

fast facts Money Matters

The International Financial Services Centre (IFSC) is a major financial services centre that houses financial institutions, law firms, accountancy and taxation advisors such as Allied Irish Bank, Citibank, Commerzbank and Sumitomo.

Must-See

MUSEUMS If you are interested in exploring Ireland’s past and getting a better understanding of the culture, two branches of Ireland’s National Museum (01-6777444, www.museum.ie) are a short distance from all the city centre DART stops. The Archaeology & Ethnography Museum in Kildare Street is next door to Government Buildings. Various eras are illustrated here including Prehistoric, Early Christian, Viking, Medieval and more. It has over two million objects in its collections. Notable items include treasures such as the Ardagh Chalice, the Tara Brooch and the Derrynaflan hoard.

Natural History Museum

Remembering ‘The Troubles’

A memorial commemorating the 33 victims of the 1974 Dublin and Monaghan bombings stands near the station on Talbot Street. As well as the 33 who died, 300 people were injured in the UVF car bombing attack, the highest number of casualties in a single day during ‘The Troubles.’ A ceremony is held annually on 17th May to remember the casualties.

The Natural History Museum at Merrion Street contains over two million specimens from insects to amphibians, mammals to reptiles. Visitors can feast their eyes on the skeleton of the giant Irish elk among other artefacts. Admission is free to both museums, and its other Dublin location which is not too far away. Boasting its own stop on the Luas red line, the National Museum of Ireland Decorative Arts & History is located in the historic Collins Barracks. The museum, also close to Heuston Station, is home to almost four million objects and specimens that relate primarily to the history of Ireland. These collections are beautifully displayed in an interactive setting that allows visitors to learn their relevance in the history of Ireland. Please note that all the national musuems mentioned close on Mondays. In continuous occupation since its establishment in 1204 AD, Dublin Castle (01-6458800) houses various museums including the Garda Museum as well as the eminent, Chester Beatty Library. A former winner of the ‘European Museum of the Year,’ the library has a fantastic collection of manuscripts, miniature paintings, prints, drawings, rare books and decorative arts from across the globe. The castle’s State Apartments are among the most prominent State rooms in the country and are open for guided tours too. It has conference and dining facilities. www. dublincastle.ie

In the Name of the Father

Sheriff Street has many claims to fame. It was a filming location for Jim Sheridan’s 1993 film In the Name of the Father and the home of Daniel Day-Lewis’ character in the film, The Boxer (also directed by Sheridan). The street is also the birthplace of former Dubliners singer, Luke Kelly, who is one of Ireland’s most iconic musicians and distinctive voices.

Dublin Castle

Located on the first floor of a Georgian building on 15 St. Stephen’s Green near the corner of Dawson Street, the Little Museum of Dublin (01-6611000) aims to tell ‘the remarkable story of Dublin in the 20th century.’ It was launched in 2011 with a public appeal for historic objects. Over 5,000 items were submitted and the result is a unique museum, which was named as ‘Dublin’s best museum experience’ by the Irish Times. Guided tours begin on the hour, every hour. www.littlemuseum.ie While these are some of the best known, there are several other smaller museums in the city such as the Irish Jewish Museum, the Pearse Museum, the National Wax Museum Dublin, the National Leprechaun Museum and more.

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City Centre

ATTRACTIONS WITH A DIFFERENCE

use

Guinness Store Ho

Kilmainham Jail

tographer

LING THE VISITORS CAN TAKE AN ENGAGI NG TOU R TEL UT, SEE STORY OF HOW JAMESON WH ISKEY CAME ABO SOME HOW THE DRI NK IS MADE AN D EVEN TASTE

The Guinness Storehouse (01-4084800) Ireland’s leading paid tourist attraction, is located in St. James’s Gate. Visitors are brought on a tour that showcases the brewing process of the world-famous stout, teaches them how to pour their own pint and allows them to enjoy a unique view of the city from the Gravity Bar. www.guinnessstorehouse.com

For a high-spirited experience, the Old Jameson Distillery (01-8072355) is in Smithfield. Visitors can take an engaging tour telling the story of how Jameson whiskey came about, see how the drink is made and even taste some. www.jamesonwhiskey.com. Both of these attractions are within walking distance of O’Connell Street or a short Luas journey away from the centre. Dublin Science Gallery

The Dublin Science Gallery (018964091), has the aim of ‘opening science up to passionate debate’ and its innovative and informative displays are well worth a look. Located at the Naughton Institute in Trinity College, this facility has had over one million visitors since it opened in 2008. There is always something new to see at this gallery as it does not house Croke Park a permanent collection but rather constantly changing exhibits. Between exhibitions there can be a gap of a few weeks where only the shop and cafe is open so be sure to check what’s on to avoid disappointment. www.sciencegallery.com The home of native Irish sports, Croke Park (01-8192300), is 15 minutes’ walk away from Connolly Station. The GAA Museum located inside the stadium provides a great interactive way for

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patrons to learn about the history of both hurling and Gaelic football. There is also a skywalk tour on a specially built walkway on top of the 82,000 seat stadium. Whilst this is not for the faint hearted, it offers a unique view of Dublin. If you’re lucky enough to get a ticket for a match here, the atmosphere is electric. www.crokepark.ie Kilmainham Jail (01-4535984) is on the Inchicore Road and is accessible by bus routes 69, 79, 13 and 40 as well as the red Luas line (Suir Road). One of the largest unoccupied prisons in Europe, it is now an atmospheric museum. Guides talk visitors through the significance of the jail in Ireland’s history and you will learn all about some of prison’s most famous inhabitants. www.heritageireland.ie/en/dublin/ kilmainhamgaol

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City Centre

Many Monuments to Behold! See ...

Walk ...

C O’

O’Connell Street has a number of noteworthy monuments. A monument dedicated to Daniel O’Connell, the 19th century Irish Nationalist for whom the street is named, overlooks O’Connell Bridge at the entrance. Other statues on the street are of prominent 19th century political leader, Charles Stewart Parnell, Nationalist, William Smith O’Brien, early 20th century labour activist, Jim on ne Larkin and MP and businessman, l l St re e t Sir John Gray. There is also a statue of Father Theobald Mathew, known as ‘The Temperance Priest,’ who advocated taking a pledge not to drink alcohol for life. The 37 metre high Nelson’s Pillar overlooked the street from 1808–1966, when it was blown up by the Republican forces. The space left was empty until 2002–2003, when the Spire was constructed. Officially titled the ‘Monument of Light,’ the stainless steel, needle-shaped monument is 121.2 metres tall. Be sure to look out for statues of famous Irish figures scattered around too, from writer, James Joyce, in North Earl Street to rock star, Phil Lynott, in Harry Street to Republican and socialist leader, James Connolly, in Beresford Place and much more.

There are many bridges in Dublin city centre but the Ha’penny Bridge is one of the most recognisable. Built in 1816 and recorded as one of the first iron bridges in the world, it was the only pedestrian bridge over the Ha’penny Bridge Liffey River for 184 years. It inherited its name from the halfpenny toll that pedestrians had to pay to cross it before it was abolished in 1919. It was refurbished in 2001 by Dublin City Council. The bridge is 43 metres in length and 3 metres wide. Its official name is the Liffey Bridge.

Photograph ... ‘Molly Malone’ is arguably Ireland’s most famous traditional song and Dublin’s unofficial anthem. Its chorus of ‘Alive, alive, oh/Alive, alive, oh/Crying ‘cockles and mussels, alive, alive, oh’ has been sung by many an artist here and abroad. The song is about the story of a pretty girl who was a fishmonger and traded on the streets in Dublin. The iconic Molly Malone Statue is a well-known landmark for visitors to the city. The most photographed statue in Dublin was unveiled during the Dublin Millennium celebrations in 1988. The statue was located in Grafton Street but due to ongoing building work, it is currently located outside the tourist office in the former St. Andrew’s Church on nearby Suffolk Street.

Connolly Station in

14000 1846 The number of people employed in the IFSC.

The year construction finished on Connolly Station (Amiens Station).

1920

The year Republican, Seán Treacy, was shot and killed on Talbot Street.

Molly Malone statue

Numbers 5 1941 The walking distance in minutes from Connolly Station to the city centre.

The year Connolly Station was hit by a German bomb during World War II.

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DUBLIN’S BUILT HERITAGE

Custom House

Dublin has many fine buildings worth visiting including places of commerce, worship and state affairs. The Custom House, built in 1791, is now home to the Department of the Environment, Community and Local Government. The huge 18th century neoclassical structure is located on the north bank of the Liffey on Custom House Quay between Butt Bridge and Talbot Memorial Bridge. Designed by James Gandon, it took 10 years to build. It houses some stunning sculptures by Irish artists. Burnt to the ground in 1921 during the War of Independence, it was restored to its former glory by 1928. Built in 1028, Christ Church Cathedral (01-6778099) gives an excellent insight into medieval Ireland. The ancient crypt located below the beautifully ornamented cathedral is the oldest structure in the city. It has notable features and stone carvings, the alleged tomb of Strongbow and the heart of St. Lawrence O’Toole, patron saint of Dublin. The history is illustrated by exhibits and audiovisual presentations. Guided tours are available too. The cathedral is a 10 minute walk from Tara Street DART station and is on bus routes like the 123, 13, 27, 40, 49, 77a and 77x. www.christchurchdublin.ie 40 | Best Of Ireland Series

St Mary’s Pro-Cathedral (01-8745441) is located on Marlborough Street and is the episcopal seat of the Roman Catholic Archbishop of Dublin and Primate of Ireland. Built between 1815 and 1825, the building is in the Neoclassical Doric style which is unusual for the time. The exterior portico is modelled on a Grecian temple while the interior is Renaissance style, with many interesting features. Many state funerals have taken place here. There are five daily masses. www.procathedral.ie

Trinity College (01-8961000) is not just a working university but is also one of Dublin’s most historic landmarks. Five minutes from either Pearse or Tara Street Station, it is located on College Green. Trinity dates back to 1592, with its design influenced by Oxford and Cambridge. There are many attractions for the visitor including the Old Library and its most famous tome, the illuminated The Book of Kells. You can also visit the Douglas Hyde Gallery or catch a performance in the Samuel Beckett Theatre. www.tcd.ie Located in Phoenix Park, the President of Ireland’s home and official residence, Áras an Uachtaráin (1890–430430), dates from 1750. It is possible to visit and tour the magnificent house and grounds on Saturdays (though it closes occasionally for official business so be sure to check). Free admission tickets are issued at the Phoenix Park Visitor Centre only on the day on a ‘first-come, first-served’ basis. Group visits and/ or advance bookings are not permitted. www.president.ie Another popular visitor destination is Farmleigh (01-8155914), which is the official State guest house. The former residence of the Guinness family and the 32 hectare grounds are truly spectacular. There is a year-round cultural programme here and guided tours are also available. Farmleigh Estate is open daily and admission is free (the house may close at short notice for official business). www.farmleigh.ie

ITOR MANY ATTRACTIONS FOR TH E VIS D ITS INCLU DING TH E OLD LIBRARY AN INATED MOST FAMOUS TOME, TH E ILLUM TH E BOOK OF KELLS Áras an Uachtaráin

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Tara Street

fast facts Temple Bar

The modern street pattern of Temple Bar is based upon the old medieval plans and distinctive features such as narrow lanes and archways. The Vikings had a stronghold here from the 9th la ra century. H C

oop

Long Distance Tara Street Station is not just for the DART line. Longer distance commuter train services go from here to Maynooth, Balbriggan, Drogheda, Dundalk, Arklow and Rosslare Europort.

Dublin Brigade The headquarters of the Dublin Fire Brigade for over 90 years (1907–1998) was the fire station at the intersection of Tara and Pearse Streets. The brick watchtower there is now a protected structure. The HQ moved to Townsend Street in 1998.

Explore Literary Dublin Dublin is a Unesco City Of Literature and the city is synonymous with writing and writers. All four Irish Nobel Prize for Literature winners, George Bernard Shaw, W.B. Yeats, Samuel Beckett and Seamus Heaney, have close connections with Dublin as have other other greats like Jonathan Swift, Oscar Wilde and James Joyce to name but a few. Anyone who is interested in literature should certainly take a visit to the Dublin Writers Museum (01-8722077) at 18 Parnell Square. Located in a restored Georgian house, Dublin’s literary celebrities from the past 300 years are brought to life through their books, letters, portraits and personal items. www.writersmuseum.com

6030259) on Kildare Street ‘collects and preserves the documentary and intellectual record of the life of Ireland.’ It has several collections including the largest collection of W.B. Yeats manuscripts in the world, which numbers over 2,000 items. It is open free of charge to anyone who wants to consult the collections or the genealogy advisory service and visit the National Library of Ireland exhibitions. At the James Joyce Centre Current (01-8788547) at 35 North exhibitions Great George’s Street, include ‘Yeats: you can tour this historic the Life and house where many rooms Works of William relate to a specific element Butler Yeats,’ of Joyce’s life. There are which The Irish regular exhibitions and Times called events. The centre also ‘one of the most runs walking tours of the important literary city based on Joyce’s life exhibitions and work (three times a yet staged week during spring/summer internationally.’ and once a week in autumn/winter). www.nli.ie Bloomsday (16th June) is a particularly lively event here and all over Dublin For a more immersive experience, when Joyce’s magnum opus, Ulysses, the Dublin Literary Pub Crawl (01is celebrated with events including re6705602/087-2630270) gives visitors an enacting episodes from the novel. www. insight into the lives of some of Ireland’s jamesjoyce.ie greatest writers through a mix of guided tour and performance. This amble was The National Library of Ireland (01once ranked in the Top 5 in the ‘50 Best Walks in the World’ by The Sunday Times. The same company offers a ‘Lit James Joyce Centre Walk’ tour during the daytime too. www.dublinpubcrawl.com These are just a selection of sites that may interest readers and bibliophiles but there are many more around the city and County Dublin. For more information and suggestions, see www.dublincityofliterature.ie. Best Of Ireland Series | 41

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TAKE A TOUR around Temple Bar

literature, art, film, and dance to name just a few. Opened in 1995, The Ark is Europe’s first custom designed arts centre for children and over the years it has won many awards. With exciting programmes of performances, exhibitions and creative workshops, children will want to return again and again to this unique venue. www.ark.ie To see Irish life in pictures, The National Photographic Archive (016030373) has regular exhibitions based on the library’s photographic collections. The collections consist of historical and contemporary photographs numbering approximately 5.2 million in total; the vast majority being Irish. The subject matters range from landscape views to studio portraits, from political events to early tourist snaps. You never know what you might see! www.nli.ie/en/nationalphotographic-archive

Temple Bar is where Dublin began with the Viking settlement here but it is better known as a cultural quarter these days.

It is no surprise that there are a range of theatres, exhibition spaces and other attractions for culture vultures here.

It is thought to have taken its name from Sir William Temple, provost of Trinity College in 1609, who lived here. The medieval streets are cobblestoned and compact, with a diverse selection of boutiques, shops, pubs, restaurants, cafes and cultural outlets. The area is perfect for a ramble or to pass a few hours during the day and is famed for its lively nighlife too.

Project Arts Centre (01-8819613) is a multidisciplinary contemporary arts centre here. Often dubbed ‘Dublin’s busiest arts centre,’ it is hosts theatre, music, dance and visual arts. www.projectartscentre.ie

Temple Bar’s two squares have been renovated in recent years and two markets are held here every week (subject to change/seasons). Temple Bar Food Market runs from 10am–5pm on Saturday at Meeting House Square and the Temple Bar Book Market is held on Saturdays and Sundays, 11am–6pm, in Temple Bar Square. Designer Mart takes place every Saturday 10am–5pm on Cow’s Lane in Temple Bar too. Temple Bar was and still is a hot spot for artists, poets and musicians. In fact, Handel’s Messiah was premiered in Neals’ Musick Hall, Temple Bar in 1742. 42 | Best Of Ireland Series

Children will love The Ark (016707788), a cultural centre for children aged two to twelve where they can experience and explore theatre, music,

The Irish Film Institute (01-6793477), also known as the IFI, is an arthouse cinema, a national body that supports Irish film heritage and incorporates the Irish Film Archive. It screens new releases and independent and world cinema you can’t catch in the usual multiplex. www.ifi.ie Other interesting things to see here include the Arthouse Multimedia Centre and the Temple Bar Gallery and Studio. Europe’s oldest built theatre, the 17th century, Smock Alley Theatre, and one of Ireland’s smallest, the New Theatre, are located in the area too. www.templebar.ie

TORICAL AN D TH E COLLECTIONS CONSIST OF HIS NUMBERING CONTEMPORARY PHOTOGRAPHS TAL APPROXIMATELY 5.2 MI LLION IN TO

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City Centre

ent gC

Ste

on S t re et

Main Streets ...

The smaller streets around Grafton Street have a large retail presence too. The other notable shopping area is Henry Street, which is off O’Connell Street, and its continuation Mary Street. The street is lined with roughly 200 stores and there are cafes to grab a bite too. Henry Street is also popular with musicians and street performers.

The year the eminent Irish Times newspaper moved to Tara Street.

phen

’s Green

Indoor ...

The city centre has plenty of shops but there are some main thoroughfares worth checking out. Grafton Street, running from St. Stephen’s Green to College Green, has a great variety of retail stores, cafes, bars and restaurants. The street is often populated by talented buskers and street performers. Some famous musicians who have performed here include Paddy Casey, Glen Hansard and Damien Rice so be sure to throw the buskers a few cents, they could be the next big thing! www.graftonstreet.ie

2006

Gr aft

Shop ‘Til you Drop!

Markets ...

For inclement weather, the city centre has multiple shopping centres scattered around. The bigger facilities include the Jervis Shopping Centre (01-8781323, www.jervis.ie) on Henry/Mary Street, the Ilac Shopping Centre (01-8288900, www.ilac.ie) on Henry Street and Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre (014780888, www.stephensgreen.com) and at Stephen’s Green West at the entrance of Grafton Street. Smaller centres include the Powerscourt Centre (www. powerscourtcentre.com) between Clarendon Street and South William Street and the Westbury Mall on Grafton Street. Georges Street Arcade (012836077, www.georgesstreetarcade.ie) is an enclosed Victorian market full to the brim with boutique shops and stalls selling funky clothing, collectables, jewellery and souvenirs. There are also some wonderful cafes and restaurants where you can take a break to refuel for more shopping. Opened in 1881, the arcade is Europe’s oldest shopping centre and a true taste of Dublin’s retail heritage.

For a less formal experience, why not try one of Dublin’s markets? The colourful Moore Street Market is renowned for the street barrow vendors, who sell a selection of fruit, vegetables and flowers. In Temple Bar, there are small markets on a Saturday selling food and crafts and a book market Saturday and Sunday. From Wednesday to Sunday, the Dublin Food Co-Op Organic Food Market takes place at 12 Newmarket near St. Patrick’s Cathedral. At the same location on the last Sunday of every month, there is a Flea Market with around 60 stalls ‘selling everything from vintage clothes to second hand bikes, retro furniture and random odds and ends.’ Smithfield Outdoor Market is held every Friday for the months of August and September 11am–3pm near Smithfield Luas stop. The stalls sell food, crafts and more. For more information on local markets see www.visitdublin.com.

Tara Street in

The maximum walking time in minutes from Tara Street Station to O’Connell Street.

Numbers 1891 1742 1 The year Tara Street Station opened.

The year Handel’s Messiah had its world premiere in Temple Bar.

Way. The traffic flow on Tara Street.

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Experience History in Dublin Remember ...

Hop On ...

Discover ... The fierce Vikings founded Dublin in the 10th century and there are some ways to learn about its rich heritage. At Dublinia (01-6794611) you can imagine being a Viking and experience what life was like through the ages in Ireland. Connected by medieval footbridge to Christ Church Cathedral, there are three interactive exhibitions covering the Viking times in Dublin, Dublinia from medieval life and the time of Strongbow to the Reformation and another about how archaeology, history and science reveal history’s secrets. You can also visit the medieval tower, which has panoramic views of Dublin. www.dublinia.ie Viking Splash Tours (01-7076000) is another fun way to learn about the city. The amphibious vehicle takes visitors through the streets and even out on the Liffey in their Viking helmets. www.vikingsplash.com

The address in Westland Row where Oscar Wilde was born and now home of the Oscar Wilde Centre. 44 | Best Of Ireland Series

Pearse Street in

1834

The year Pearse Street Station opened, orginally called Westland Row Station.

The number of city centre DART stations, of which Pearse Street is one.

s Bu

Glasnevin Cemetery & Museum (01-8826500) is a moving look into Dublin’s past and many well-known citizens are interred here. It is 3 kilometres from the city centre and you can get here on bus routes 40, 140, 4, 9 and 83. There are guided tours daily. See page 47 for more details. www.glasnevintrust.ie

There are many types of tour around Dublin, bike, boat and bus included. There are hop-on hop-off bus tours run by Dublin Sightseeing Tours (01-7033028), www.dublinsightseeing. ie) and City Sightseeing Dublin (01-4580054, www. citysightseeingdublin.ie among several other tours run by the two companies. Walking tours are also widely available with popular options include Pat Liddy’s Walking Tours (01- 8329406, www.walkingtours. ie), Historical Walking Tours of Dublin (087-6889412, www.historicaltours.ie), Sandemans New Dublin Tours (www.newdublintours.com) and many more. If you want to cycle, Dublin City Bike Tours (087-1341866, www. dublincitybiketours.com) is another choice. See www.visitdublin.com for information on more tour options. blin / Du

The General Post Office on O’Connell Street was one of the most prominent conflict sites of the 1916 Easter Rising, serving as headquarters to the men and women who took part in the rebellion. The imposing building was destroyed by fire during the Rising e but was fully restored. The imposing Gen fic e r a l Po s t O f façade, including a huge ionic portico and six columns, has been a constant since 1818. It is still a working post office. www.anpost.ie

Vi kings Sp

Numbers 16860 27 The number of registered students who attend Trinity College on average per year.

h las

u To

The house number on Pearse Street, birthplace of Irish revolutionaries Padraig and William Pearse.

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Natural Dublin

The Phoenix Park (01-8205800) in Dublin 8 is one of the largest walled city parks in Europe. Set on 709 hectares, around 30% of the park is covered by trees and it is a sanctuary for many mammals and birds including a herd of fallow deer. Other features include the Victorian People’s Flower Gardens, a visitor centre, tea rooms, bike hire facility and its own tourist train. Dublin Bus routes to and from the park include routes 37–39, 70, 46A and 25/26. It is a short walk from Heuston Station and from Connolly Station, commuter trains operate on a regular basis to Ashtown and Phoenix Park Train Stations. www.phoenixpark.ie Situated close to the Parkgate Street entrance of Phoenix Park is Dublin Zoo (01-4748900), founded in 1830. Over 400 animals make this their home and you can learn all about them in a fun, engaging environment. The magnificent zoo is a great day out for people of all ages. www.dublinzoo.ie

Dublin Galleries

It is a five minute walk from Pearse Street Station to the National Gallery of Ireland’s (016615133) Clare Street entrance. The gallery houses the national collection of European and Irish fine art and holds over 15,000 works dating from the 13th to the 21st century. Prints, drawings, paintings and sculpture are included. Admission is free. www.nationalgallery.ie

Dublin City Gallery

The RHA or Royal Hibernian Academy (01-6612558) at 15 Ely Place is another place to enjoy some art. Focusing on painting, sculpture and architecture, it was founded in 1823 by 30 Irish artists. The building has four galleries. An open submission art show has been organised annually by the Academy since 1826. The RHA also curates regular exhibitions. Admission is free. www.rhagallery.ie Dublin City Gallery (01-2225550), also known as the Hugh Lane, in Charlemont House, Parnell Square North is highly recommended. It houses one of Ireland’s foremost collections of modern and contemporary art with over 2,000 artworks, ranging from Impressionist art by the likes of Monet and Renoir to works by leading national and international contemporary artists. It also boasts the entire contents of Francis Bacon’s Studio, relocated from London

to Dublin in 1998. Regular events include lectures by artists, philosophers and art historians. Admission free. www.hughlane.ie The National Museum of Modern Art (01-6129900) at the Royal Hospital, Kilmainham is a few minutes from Heuston Station (accessible from Connolly Station on the Luas red line or by walking from the city centre). This beautiful gallery features some of the best Irish and international modern art, focusing primarily on collections from the 1940s onwards. The museum also hosts occasional music concerts. Admission is free except for occasional special exhibitions. www.imma.ie There are many other galleries cum museums and smaller galleries scattered across Dublin, see www.dublin.ie for more details.

The picturesque National Botanical Gardens (01-8040300) in Glasnevin was founded in 1795. You can marvel at this amazing collection of over 15,000 plant species and cultivars from a variety of habitats from all over the world. It is also famous for its exquisitely restored and planted glasshouses. There are three bus services to get there, routes 4, 9 and 83. www.botanicgardens.ie Other tranquil spaces in the city include Victorian park, St. Stephen’s Green, the Garden of Remembrance in Parnell Square East and The War Memorial Gardens in Islandbridge.

National Gallery of Ireland

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THEATRES & VENUES GALORE!

The National Concert Hall

Olympia Theatre

The Gate Theatre

Dublin city centre has many theatres, which host different media and performance types, a selection of which are outlined below. The Abbey Theatre (01-8787222) is located on the street of the same name and a stone’s throw from the Luas red line stop here. Ireland’s national theatre played a central role in the Irish literary revival and writers such as WB Yeats, Sean O’Casey and JM Synge staged some of their most renowned works on the Abbey stage. Today, it hosts classic and brand new productions in its two auditoriums. The performances here are high quality, often acclaimed and showcase the best in Irish talent. www.abbeytheatre.ie

The Abbey Theatre

46 | Best Of Ireland Series

The architecturally stunning Victorian theatre, the Olympia Theatre (016793323) on Dame Street, has a rich history of ownership, refurbishment and of staging internationally renowned performances. Originally called The Star of Erin, it opened in 1878, then closed, was remodelled and re-opened in 1897. Many famous performers have treaded the boards such as Charlie Chaplin, Laurel and Hardy and Alec Guinness to but name a few. The interior is classical but the entertainment is thoroughly modern. It hosts diverse acts from the worlds of music, to comedy, theatre, pantomime, operas and ballet. www.olympia.ie The Gate Theatre (01-8744045/8746042) is located in a landmark building on Cavendish Row, Parnell Square. The theatre company was formed in 1928 by Hilton Edwards and Micheál MacLiammóir and offered Dublin audiences ‘an introduction to the world of European and American theatre and also to classics from the modern and Irish repertoire.’ Orson Welles, James Mason and Michael Gambon began their acting careers with the Gate. It remains a vibrant venue today with a diverse, yearround programme of events. www.gatetheatre.ie

The Gaiety Theatre (01-6795622) on South King Street, just off Grafton Street, has brought culture, entertainment and joy to the people of Dublin for 142 years. Showing operas, musicals, drama, comedy, concerts, dance, festivals and pantomime, the‘Grand Old Lady’ of the Dublin theatre scene is as relevant now as ever reflecting aspects of Irish culture and society. Refurbished in 2007, a show at the Gaiety is a treat for everyone and anyone. www.gaietytheatre.ie For theatre fans, the Dublin Theatre Festival, held annually in the autumn (29th September to 16th October 2016) brings some of the best in Irish and international theatre to the city. The upcoming programme will be announced in July. www.dublintheatrefestival.com One of Ireland’s premier music venues, The National Concert Hall (01-4170000) on Earlsfort Terrace, showcases opera, traditional, jazz, musicals and pop music but especially classical. It boasts weekly performances by the resident orchestra, the RTÉ National Symphony Orchestra, as well as a range of other performances and activities. www.nch.ie These are just a selection of venues, there are more covered throughout the guide.

HISTORY

City Centre

Glasnevin Cemetery & Museum

Glasnevin Cemetery Museum and Guided Tours Finglas Road, Glasnevin, Dublin 11 01-8826550 www.glasnevintrust.ie

Located just 2.5 kilometres from O’Connell Street, Glasnevin Cemetery covers 124 acres of glorious parkland with plenty to appreciate; perfect for those interested in exploring the legacies of Ireland’s heroes. A hauntingly gorgeous Victorian Garden cemetery with over 1.5 million burials since 1832, each guide is

HISTORY

Irish Whiskey Museum

Irish Whiskey Museum 119 Grafton Street, Dublin 2 01-5250970 www.irishwhiskeymuseum.ie

This is an exciting new attraction located in the heart of Dublin City, opposite Trinity College. A fantastic museum which unveils the intriguing tale of Irish whiskey, its origins, rise to glory, dramatic fall and current revival. This one hour, interactive, ultra-modern experience offers a wow factor unlike any other of its kind in Dublin. Enjoy the captivating anecdotes of our talented story tellers as they transport

passionate about sharing their love of heritage and history, telling the stories of Ireland’s fascinating past through daily walking tours and re-enactments, turning a learning experience into a period of magic with a careful balance of passion and sensitivity.

A HISTORY LESSON MADE FU N AN D MEMORABLE Awarded ‘Best Cultural Experience’ in Ireland at the Irish Tourism Industry Awards, Glasnevin is one of Ireland’s top attractions and is listed at number 2 on Tripadvisor’s ‘Best Things to do in Dublin,’ highlighting this a cemetery of historic importance. Hear about the harsh realities of Dublin past, of gravediggers and grave robbers, cholera epidemics, and world wars. A history lesson made fun and memorable by guides who know their stuff, with plenty of wit to spare. Be prepared to enjoy yourself. Glasnevin Cemetery is open daily from 9am–6pm. you through the ages. Surrounded by an exclusive collection of Irish whiskey memorabilia dating back to the 1800s blended with a modern twist, this is one memory you are sure to savour. Each tour includes a whiskey tasting session with our Master Taster, comparing three Irish whiskeys in a wonderful environment. For those interested, why not upgrade to the premium tour and enjoy the wonderful tones and palate of a fourth aged whiskey and take home a souvenir to remember us by.

ENJOY TH E CAPTIVATING AN ECDOTES Our Whiskey Blending Experience runs at 6pm daily and lasts for one hour and 30 minutes. Enjoy four varieties of Irish whiskey before crafting and sampling your own unique blend which you get to take away in a miniature personalised bottle.

PUB

GUINNESS STOREHOUSE

CITY CENTRE

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GUINNESS STOREHOUSE

St James’s Gate, Dublin 8 01-4084800 www.guinness-storehouse.com Located in the heart of St. James’s Gate Brewery, this fermentation site has been home to the Guinness Company since 1759, when Arthur Guinness signed the now-famous 9,000 year lease on the brewery. Today, the GUINNESS STOREHOUSE® is Ireland’s and Europe’s number one visitor attraction where visitors are taken on a magical journey into the world-famous Guinness brand.

SPECTACU LAR PANORAMIC VIEWS OF DU BLIN FROM GRAVITY BAR Enjoy the multisensory experience in the Tasting Rooms and explore the long tradition of award-winning Guinness advertising. Learn how to pour the perfect pint in the Guinness Academy or upgrade to enjoy samples of the four most popular variants, with the ultimate tasting session in the Connoisseur Bar. Savour the delicious combination of beer and food in our new ‘Guinness & Food Experience’ and finish your tour with the spectacular panoramic views of Dublin from Gravity Bar over a complimentary pint of Guinness. The GUINNESS STOREHOUSE® is open 7 days a week from 9.30am–5pm (late opening during July and August until 6pm). Complimentary parking is available in the visitor carpark. Book online to beat the queue get up to 20% off. Best Of Ireland Series | 47

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Dublin Bay - Rail & Sail

The perfect way to experience

Dublin Bay... D ublin’s frequent local rail system, the DART allows you to discover many of the sights and attractions around Dublin Bay and in the city centre. Dublin’s new Rail and Sail offer provides visitors the opportunity to take yourself out of the City for a ‘A Breath of Fresh Air’ and experience the beautiful seaside towns and fishing villages which are dotted around the edge of Dublin’s magnificent bay.

perspective. Dublin really is a city on the edge of nature so be prepared to have your cobwebs well and truly blown away and soak up all the bay has to offer with our Rail and Sail offer.

Dublin Bay Cruises and Dublin’s frequent local rail system, the DART, have teamed up in 2016 to offer you the perfect day out in Dublin this summer. View Dublin City and the newly recognised UNESCO Dublin Bay Biosphere reserve from a truly unique 48 | Best Of Ireland Series

Take yourself out of the city for ‘A Breath Of Fresh Air’ and take in the magnificent sights along Dublin Bay. The Rail and Sail offer allows you to do a full loop of Dublin Bay, by starting your journey on board the St Bridget ferry, and ending on the DART (or vice versa). From Sir John Rodgerson’s Quay in the city centre, head north on the St Bridget to

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Dublin Bay - Rail & Sail

The Rail and Sail offer includes your Dublin Bay Cruises ticket and your discounted DART voucher, to take you back to your starting point by rail, taking in even more beautiful views of the beautiful fishing village of Howth passing through Dublin’s Docklands, The Bailey and Poolbeg lighthouses, Ireland’s Eye and many more sights. Along the way we head south to the sailing harbour of Dun Laoghaire with its amazing history, passing by Dalkey Island, Joyce Martello Tower, Clontarf and the world wildlife reserve Bull Island. And with some luck, you may even spot some dolphins or seals along the way.

Dublin Bay from the comfort of your cabin. Prices start from €22 per person. For more information visit www.dublinbaycruises.com Twitter: @DublinBayCruise Facebook: www.facebook.com/ dublinbaycruises #getoutthere Phone: 01-9011757

THE RAIL AND SAIL OFFER ALLOWS YOU TO DO A FULL LOOP OF DUBLIN BAY... Best Of Ireland Series | 49

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Grand Canal Dock

STOPPING BY

Grand Canal Dock

ork started on the Grand Canal Dock basin in 1791 and the grand opening was on the 23rd of April 1796 when the Lord Lieutenant, the Earl of Camden performed the opening ceremony, coming into the basin on his yacht, the Dorset, followed by 20 barges and pleasure boats. Today, the Grand Canal Dock is managed by Waterways Ireland and is a recreational resource for the city centre. Located in Dublin’s city centre between the most easterly point of Dublin 2 and the most westerly point of Dublin 4, it can accommodate 150 seagoing vessels. A docking enclosure located between the majestic river Liffey and the historic Grand Canal, the Grand Canal is the southern-most of a pair of canals that connect Dublin. While the idea of connecting Dublin to the Shannon was proposed as early as 1715, work on a canal only began in 1757 when the Irish Parliament granted Thomas Omer £20,000 to start construction. The 50 | Best Of Ireland Series

last working cargo barge passed through the Grand Canal in 1960. While there may not be many barges on this beautiful man-made stretch of water anymore, business certainly has not slowed down. Both Irish and international investment in Grand Canal Dock has led to it evolving into

the commercial and cultural capital of Dublin. Companies such as Google, Facebook and LinkedIn have made the area their home, leading to it being dubbed ‘Silicon Dock.’ Since the turn of the millennium, Grand Canal Dock has undergone major redevelopment as part of the Dublin Docklands redevelopment project. Amenities include several public bike hire stations, to see the area on two wheels. At night the Grand Canal Dock is striking to behold and an elegant lighting scheme adds to an already eclectic atmosphere. The area is scattered with great pubs, restaurants and cafes, some of which offer the diner the opportunity to dine al fresco and enjoy the modern surroundings. This area of Dublin is immensely popular with tourists yet it has managed to maintain the genuine qualities that made it so popular in the first place. Grand Canal Dock represents what the locals call ‘real Dublin’ with its unique marriage of contemporary and historical architecture and a vibrant cultural atmosphere.

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Grand Canal Dock

fast facts

The Factory, located here, houses sh Irish Film and Television Network studios and rehearsal and recording studios where a number of Irish band U2’s albums were recorded. at u

fla

There are many notable buildings in the area such as the Altovetro apartment building which won a silver medal for housing from the Royal Institute of Architect’s in Ireland 2007 and 2008.

Forty foot pole

Award Winner

Music Makers

A BOATLOAD OF HISTORY Grand Canal Dock opened in 1796 and although it has changed immeasurably since then, there are some landmarks of old to remind us of days gone by. The Design Tower, located at Grand Canal Quay, was built in 1862 as a sugar refinery by a company called Bewley, Moss and Co. It is one of the first multi-storey buildings in the world to have a steel skeletal structure. The sugar refinery was open until 1900, when it became a foundry. Today the Design Tower is home to 26 craft people working in materials like silver, gold, leather and ceramics. The studios are open to visitors by appointment so

The Design Tower

people can visit to see the artisans at work and perhaps take some unique pieces home. www.thedesigntower.com Boland’s Mill, sitting on the Inner Dock, was one of the original buildings when the dock was opened in 1796. The concrete structures, which were the hoppers for grain, were added between 1940 and 1960. At one stage Boland’s owned all of the buildings surround this inner dock. It closed down in the late 1980s and planning permission has recently been granted for a multi-use development which will retain the listed buildings and remove the newer concrete elements.

At one time there was a hospice for lepers located on ‘Misery hill.’ Such was the belief that lepers were unclean, these poor souls would be walked to the hospice with a man tolling a bell and another carrying a 40 foot pole to keep other people at a safe distance. The expression ‘I wouldn’t touch him with a 40 foot pole’ originates from this practice. Visitors can take a pleasant stroll up to the three sea locks which allowed ships to enter and leave the Grand Canal Dock from the River Liffey. The biggest is called ‘Camden Lock’ and the others, ‘Buckingham Lock’ and ‘Westmoreland Lock.’ These were named after the subscribers to the Grand Canal Company, shareholders in today’s company structure. Buckingham Lock is operational today, while it would originally have been opened by men using winches now it is opened electrically. Take time to imagine a constant stream of boats coming through here laden with goods and freight, the basin filled with up to 150 boats tied up being loaded or unloaded all by hand by dockers working a 10–14 hour day in summer. The Waterways Ireland Visitor Centre (01-6777510) is a family friendly facility located at Grand Canal Quay and offers an insight into the rich history here. For more information www.waterwaysirelandvisitorcentre.org.

The Waterways Ireland Visitor Centre

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Grand Canal Dock

PLENTY OF THINGS TO DO AROUND Grand Canal Dock © Clara Hooper

Bord Gáis Energy Theatre Grand Canal Square

For a night at the theatre or opera, the Bord Gáis Energy Theatre (016777999) is a leading entertainment venue in the city hosting top international and domestic productions. The theatre, which opened its doors in 2010, is a visually stunning building thanks to designer and world-renowned architect, Daniel Liebeskind. The interior of the theatre is beautifully laid out and has fabulous acoustics among its many other fine features. The yearround programme offers everything from ballet, musicals, family shows, plays, concerts, comedy shows, orchestral performances and operas. www.bordgaisenergytheatre.ie

Located a few minutes away from Grand Canal Dock in Ringsend is Shelbourne Park Greyhound Stadium (01-6683502) where ‘going to the dogs’ is never a bad thing. Ireland’s premiere greyhound racing venue holds races three nights a week (Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday) and the exciting racing is great entertainment. Aside from an action-packed race-card, there are excellent bar and dining facilities onsite. The stadium can cater for any event, big or small. You can bet on a lively night out here! www.igb.ie/shelbourne-park There are plenty of activities to take part in when visiting the Grand Canal Dock area. Water sports companies based in the area are Surfdock and Wakedock (01-6683945/01-6643883). With over 20 years experience, the qualified instructors offer specialist tuition in exciting activities including windsurfing, kayaking, stand up paddleboarding, dinghy sailing and cable wakeboarding. For the more experienced, you can rent all you need to go for a kayak, a paddle or a windsurf here too. www.surfdock.ie/www.wakedock.ie

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Patrick Kavanagh Statue

‘Let’s Walk & Talk’ is a community initiative of Dublin City Council comprising of weekly walks in various parts of the city, themed historical walking tours and other events. Walks along the Grand Canal are nearly always a part of the seasonal programme, along with many other interesting locations. Some walks, led by volunteers, are even narrated in Irish, French and Spanish. According to the council, these walks are ‘a great way to stay healthy, meet people and learn a little something about our Fair City.’ All tours and weekly walks are free of charge, last about 90 minutes and no advance booking is necessary. More information on ‘Let’s Walk & Talk,’ including details of routes and meeting points, is available on www.dublincity.ie.

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Inbetweeners... Enjoy the Area Grand Canal Dock

Shop ...

Every week, there are several small pop-up markets around the Grand Canal Dock area, selling tasty lunch fare and other fresh foodstuffs. These markets include one at the Waterways Ireland Visitor Centre at Grand Canal Dock every Wednesday, one at Mespil Road on the banks of the Grand Canal every Thursday and at Percy Place every Friday. Vendors and stalls vary but the bustling, friendly atmosphere stays the same. Information on these and other pop-up markets around Dublin can be found at www.irishvillagemarkets.ie.

Balbriggan is a large town with a lot of history from medieval battles to the notorious ‘Sack of Balbriggan’ during the Irish War of Independence. It has three beaches and a Martello tower. More information on local amenities and events is available on www.balbriggan.info.

Pitstop ... Another aspect of the Grand Canal Dock that sets it apart from other areas is the exciting urban space of Grand Canal Square. Designed by Margaret Swartz, this square is the largest urban public space in the city and is surrounded by some of the top commercial premises in Ireland. It has an innovative design and while it makes for a pretty location for a selfie during the day, it should be seen at night to be fully appreciated because of its interesting lighting scheme.

For Kids ...

Grand Canal Sq

uare

For anyone with little ones, Docklands Chimney Park play area is a must visit. This park offers more than a standard playground and is set in the backdrop of the historic red brick chimney. The park features a mirror wall, a wobbly play platform, a water play feature, palm trees and a blue lounging wall.

Grand Canal Dock in Numbers 1960 67 8 2007

The number of Bike Stations in the area.

The year the last cargo boat passed through the Grand Canal.

The height in metres of Montevetro or ‘Google Docks’ building; the tallest commericial building in Dublin.

The time in minutes it takes to walk from Grand Canal Dock Station to Grand Canal Square.

The year Grand Canal Square opened to much acclaim.

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Lansdowne Road

Aviva Stadium

STEP OFF AT

Lansdowne Road S ports and music fans will be familiar with this part of Dublin as the area is home to two celebrated sports and concert venues. The stop takes in well-known residential and business districts like Ballsbridge and Donnybrook too.

There is a huge stadium based at Lansdowne Road. It was formerly named after the location but is now called Aviva Stadium. It is the world’s oldest rugby international test venue and the oldest sports stadium in Europe. The first rugby international was held here in March 1878 between Ireland and England. The first ever international athletics meeting in the world was held in June 1876

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between Ireland and England here. Steeped in history, Aviva Stadium rises proudly on the Dublin skyline with its stunning, ultramodern design. Aviva Stadium is the home of Irish football and Irish rugby and is a spectacular concert venue also. One can always tell when a big match or concert is on just looking at the fans hopping off the DART wearing their team colours or band t-shirts. Crowds often pack the stadium to capacity to watch iconic international soocer matches and rugby tournaments like the Six Nations. No matter what the sport, the special atmosphere of the hallowed ground is palpable. Top music acts such as Madonna, Lady Gaga, U2 and Roger Waters have played to sell-out crowds in the stadium too. Also in the area, The Royal Dublin Society (RDS) is just as popular for sport, being the home of Leinster Rugby and the annual Discover Ireland Dublin

Horse Show in August. Equestrian fans come from all over the world to watch the best in international show jumping and of course to cheer on the strong team of Irish riders and horses. Loyal Leinster fans can be heard chanting ‘Allez les bleus!’ (come on the blues) during home fixtures. The RDS also plays host to a number of events from concerts to lavish exhibitions and fairs. There are so many different events at the RDS, something is sure to tickle your fancy. The bulk of Dublin’s embassies and many diplomatic residences are located in the southern part of Ballsbridge too, including the impressive American Embassy. There is plenty to see and do while here, you can take a gentle stroll along the river Dodder or take the air in Herbert Park. Those with an interest in Irish history might like to take a peek at the Irish Labour History Museum or the National Print Museum. There are plenty of fascinating stories just waiting to be discovered.

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Enjoy Inbetweeners... WALKS & HISTORY Lansdowne Road

The Irish Labour History Museum (01-6681071) in Beggar’s Bush Barracks on Haddington Road highlights this area of history which is often overlooked in favour of other momentous events. Opened in 1990, this museum houses a valuable archive of historical material relating to trade unions, labour movements and organisations as well as campaigns. www.irishlabourhistorysociety.com

The National Print Museum (01-6603770) is housed in the Old Garrison Chapel in Beggar’s Bush Barracks and offers visitors the chance to discover traditional letterpress printing in a digital age. The ground floor features a permanent exhibition that shows the story of printing. Items of note include an original 1916 Proclamation. The upper floor has changing exhibitions and more of the museum’s resources, as well as items from abroad. Visitors have the option of taking guided tours. There is also an on-site shop and cafe. www.nationalprintmuseum.ie Named after Sidney Herbert, the father of the 14th Earl of Pembroke, Herbert Park is 13 hectares of idyllic parkland in an urban setting. Opened in 1907, it is one of Dublin’s oldest and most popular parks. It boasts floral displays, mature trees and a native tree trail, tennis pavilions, dressing rooms as well

Bayside (‘Cois Bá’ in Irish) is another suburb close to the sea located on the coast inshore from North Bull Island. North Bull Island, which is around 5 kilometres long and 800 metres wide, is home to Dollymount Strand, which runs the entire length of it. Bayside was a planned development on part of the lands of the large old district of Kilbarrack. Dating back to the 13th century, Kilbarrack’s church and graveyard, dubbed the Chapel of Mone, the mariners’ church for Dublin, is situated along Bayside’s seafront.

as a large playground. Games such as croquet, bowling and bowls are often played here as well as other more athletic endeavours on the sports fields and an all-weather pitch. The jogging/ walking circuit is popular, as are the duck pond and bandstand. The park opens daily from 10am and closing times vary by the season.

including Tallaght, Donnybrook, Ballsbridge and enters the Liffey near Ringsend. The Dodder (An Dothra in Irish) has an abundance of flora and fauna to spot on your walk from herons to swans, otters to foxes. Local fishermen can be seen casting their lines during the fishing season.

Whatever the season or weather, a stroll or jog along the gentle banks of the River Dodder is time well spent. One of the three main rivers in Dublin, the Dodder (‘an Dothra’ in Irish) is the largest tributary of the Liffey. It flows through several Dublin suburbs © Eoghan McNally/Shutterstock

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Sandymount

DISCOVER

Sandymount S

andymount has a strong sense of place despite being only three kilometres from Dublin’s city centre. Its well-preserved village character, its central green area and its variety of architectural styles and pretty properties make for a desirable community.

Sandymount enjoys a pretty seaside location and is equally blessed as a ‘leafy suburb.’

Sandymount Beach

Food outlets abound and there are cafes, restaurants and fast food outlets as well as three pubs in the area. Sandymount is a good place to grab a bite or drink before a match in the nearby Aviva Stadium, or before a gig or conference in the RDS. Accommodation options in the area include various hotels and B&Bs.

Villagers enjoy a variety of amenities on their doorstep. The vibrant village has a selection of services and shops with schools and sporting facilities nearby. There are no less than four churches in the area: Christchurch Presbyterian, Sandymount Methodist Church, St. John the Evangelist and St. Mary’s Star of the Sea, all offering regular services. There is also a Sikh Gurdwara on Serpentine Avenue. Sandymount is a place of interest for literature buffs and offers several serene spots to sit and read for a while. It is the birthplace of Nobel Prize-winning poet, WB Yeats. James Joyce lived here for a time and in his novel Ulysses, Joyce placed the characters Stephen, Leopold and Gerty on Sandymount Strand. The poet Séamus Heaney, another Nobel Prize winner in Literature, also lived here in his later years. 56 | Best Of Ireland Series

The village offers good shopping, from books to bikes to boutiques, shoes to souvenirs to second-hand items. There is an organic food store, convenience store, supermarket and specialist wine store to meet the needs of locals without having to visit the city centre.

For more information on local goingson, see sandymountpost.wordpress.com. Sandymount Strand is a major draw to the area and the promenade and walking trails add to its popularity with walkers. There are plenty of other activities available too with cricket, rugby and hockey all popular here. Sandymount has two gyms and yoga classes are available in three different locations.

Kite Surfing at Sandymount

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Sandymount

fast facts On Paper Sandymount Strand is the setting for two episodes in James Joyce’s book, Ulysses: the ‘Proteus’ episode and the ‘Nausicaa’ episode. In the latter, Leopold Bloom sits on a rock and pleasures himself while watching Gerty lift her skirt. This incident led to the book being banned in the USA for obscenity. One noted quote goes as follows, ‘Am I walking into eternity along Sandymount strand? Crush, crack, crick, crick. Wild sea money.’

Must-See VIEWS & HISTORY Sandymount Strand is just a short walk from the DART station via Sandymount Village. This strand is the location of ‘Cockle Lake’ in Ulysses, making it one of the most famous beaches in Irish fiction. The strand stretches from Irishtown through Sandymount and Merrion and on to Booterstown. It’s great for walking but the water is too shallow to swim in near the shoreline. You can also stroll along Sandymount Promenade, a 2.5 kilometre walkway along the coast from Gilford Avenue to Saint Alban’s Park. There is a Martello tower about halfway along the strand.

That’s News! One of Ireland’s most recognisable television personalities was born in Sandymount in 1960, RTÉ newscaster Bryan Dobson. He has presented the flagship daily news broadcast, the RTÉ Six One News, since 1996 but also contributes to other programmes. He joined the news and current affairs department of the national broadcaster in 1992.

bell

Poolbeg Po wer Statio n

Poolbeg Lighthouse and follows the same path back. For information on this and other Slí na Sláinte (‘path to health’) routes, see www.irishheart.ie.

Tonne of Bricks Sandymount was once known as Brickfield Town. In the 18th century, Lord Merrion established a brick works along the shore which provided bricks for many of Dublin’s Georgian buildings and by 1760 the original settlement was documented as Brickfield Town. In 1791, Lord Merrion commenced construction of the sea wall to protect his brick works.

Poolbeg Lighthous

The Irishtown Nature Reserve and Sandymount Strand were formed after the building of the Great South Wall (also known as the South Bull Wall). When it was finished in 1795, it was the longest sea wall in the world. If you walk from Sandymount Strand towards Poolbeg Power Station, you will come across this wall near the ESB station. You can walk along it towards the sea and at the end is Poolbeg Lighthouse. A stroll in the opposite direction leads to Ringsend. You can also park at the end of Pigeon House Road near the start of the wall and walk along it, which takes an estimated 40 minutes. There is also the Poolbeg Lighthouse Slí na Sláinte, a 10.2 kilometre loop route beginning on Beach Road beside Sean Moore Park. The route runs alongside Sandymount Strand, through Shelly Banks, the Irishtown Nature Reserve, out to

Apart from being a valued amenity for Dubliners, the strand attracts thousands of migrant birds and so makes a great location for bird watching. The area is part of the Special Protection Area (SPA) of Dublin Bay and is home to a large number of winter wading birds and Brent Geese. The adjoining Irishtown Nature Reserve was designed with a focus on habitat creation and nature conservation but is also a well-used amenity area. Sandymount Green is a small triangular park in the village and dates to the early 1800s. Sit and read next to the bronze bust of poet WB Yeats or have a picnic on the green with tasty food from the local cafes. The houses along the south side of the green are part of what was once Sandymount Castle.

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Sandymount

Dublin’s Great Writers

HOTEL

Sandymount Hotel

Herbert Road, Sandymount, Dublin 4 01-6142000 www.sandymounthotel.ie

As outlined in page 35, Dublin is a Unesco City of Literature and many famous writers were born here or indeed, worked here and found it a source of inspiration. All four Irishmen who were awarded a Nobel Prize for Literature have strong Dublin connections through birth or residency. Playwright, George Bernard Shaw was born at 33 Synge Street while poet, W.B. Yeats born in Sandymount and playwright and novelist, Samuel Beckett, was born in Foxrock. Poet, Seamus Heaney, was born in Northern Ireland but lived in Sandymount from 1972 until he passed away in 2013. From Pygmalion to He Wishes for the Cloths of Heaven and from Waiting for Godot to Digging, the work of these men will endure for many generations. Born in Strabane, novelist, playwright and satirist, Flann O’Brien, lived at 4 Avoca Terrace and later at 81 Merrion Avenue in Blackrock. His famous novel At Swim- Two-Birds is set in the Dalkey, Sandycove & Glasthule area. Bram Stoker was born in Clontarf and is renowned as the writer of the original vampire novel, Dracula. Brendan Behan, poet, short story writer, novelist and playwright was born in Dublin— living at 13 Russell Street in his childhood. Author, James Joyce, was born in Rathgar and lived in various places in Dublin including Sandycove. His books 58 | Best Of Ireland Series

such as Dubliners, A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man, Finnegan’s Wake and Ulysses are set in Dublin and draw a vivid picture of the place and its people. Witty playwright and novelist, Oscar Wilde was born in 21 Westland Row. His great works include The Importance of Being Earnest. The satirist, essayist and poet, Jonathan Swift was born in Dublin. One of his best-known works is Gulliver’s Travels. Sean O’Casey was the first Irish playwright of note to write about the Dublin working classes with pieces like The Plough and the Stars. Maeve Binchy, the much-loved novelist and columnist, grew up and lived in Dalkey. Her books include Circle of Friends. Playwright and novelist, Hugh Leonard, wrote Home before Night about growing up in Dalkey. His play, Da, set in Dalkey, won four Tony awards on Broadway in 1978. Roddy Doyle has written numerous bestselling and critically acclaimed books including The Commitments, The Snapper, The Woman who Walked into Doors and the Booker Prize winning, Paddy Clarke Ha Ha Ha. Some other well-known writers from Dublin include Sebastian Barry, JM Synge, John Boyne, Christy Brown, Joseph O’Connor, John Connolly, Elizabeth Bowen, Paul Howard (aka Ross O’Carroll-Kelly), Cecilia Ahern and many more.

Celebrating over 60 years of hospitality, Sandymount Hotel is very proud to be the largest family-run hotel in Dublin. Currently run by John Loughran, eldest son of original owners George and Rosaleen, the family provides a home from home for each guest with a famously warm welcome. The Sandymount Hotel proudly boasts 168 newly refurbished bedrooms reflecting the hotel’s ardent passion for providing a comfortable, modern hotel experience, and has been awarded a TripAdvisor Hall of Fame Award in 2015 for 5 consecutive years for excellence in customer service.

PROVIDES A HOME FROM HOME FOR EACH GU EST Located in Dublin 4, the hotel is next to the Aviva Stadium, within walking distance of the city centre and close to other key venues like the RDS and the 3Arena, not to mention its proximity to the picturesque Sandymount Village and beach. The Line Out Bar is a popular choice for those visiting Aviva Stadium and the menus change seasonally with only the freshest ingredients used in each classic dish. The Line Out serves lunch and dinner daily and boasts a garden terrace overlooking stunning private gardens. The Sandymount Hotel truly has something for everyone. For more information and offers, see www.sandymounthotel.ie.

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Blackrock

NEXT STOP

Blackrock

lackrock, ‘An Charraig Dhubh’ in Irish, is an affluent suburb just 15 minutes from Dublin’s city centre by DART and is a good spot for shopping outside of the city.

Hundreds of years ago, Blackrock was known by several longer names such as ‘Newtown-at-the Black Rock’ but over time, it was abbreviated. It is named for a rock formation found locally, a limestone that appeared black when wet, and this was once visible on the shore and forms part of the foundations of Blackrock Park. When the railway from the city centre to Kingstown was being built in 1834, this rock was used for wall cappings between Williamstown and Blackrock and it can also be seen in the walls of the train station at Blackrock and other buildings like St. Mary’s Chapel of Ease in St. Mary’s Place in the city, which is nicknamed ‘The Black Church.’ The Rock Road, which forms the south western boundary of the park, is part of one of the oldest roads in the country: the ancient Slíghe Chualann constructed by the High King of Ireland to connect Tara in Co. Meath with what is now southern Dublin and north-east Wicklow. In the 18th century, it was notorious for highway robberies.

to build a number of stately homes in the area in the 17th century. Estates were established at Mount Merrion and Stillorgan. The area quickly developed, attracting wealthy Dubliners. It transformed into a popular seaside resort in the 18th century before the new railway line to Dún Laoghaire in the 1830s changed its fortunes once again as the crowds moved further down the line. Modern Blackrock is home to one of the best private health clinics in the country as well as Blackrock College, a stronghold for the rising stars of Irish rugby. It has a bohemian feel to it with numerous art galleries dotted about the town as well as a popular market and a mix of flea and farmers’ market every weekend.

A pleasant afternoon is easily had in Blackrock. While the time away in Blackrock Park, enjoying the lush scenery and views over Dublin Bay or go bird watching in nearby Booterstown Nature Reserve. Once you’ve had enough of the sea air and scenery, hit the shops. There are two big shopping centres and several boutiques in the town for an afternoon of shopping without the city centre traffic. For eating out there are several options, from cafes to gastro-pubs to restaurants. James Joyce is said to have frequented a popular pub here which is still serving up pints to this day. Take some time out at Blackrock and you’ll be pleasantly surprised. www.iloveblackrock.ie

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Blackrock

fast facts That Towering Feeling

Williamstown Martello Tower is now half-buried in Blackrock Park. When the tower was built in the early 1800s it was surrounded by sea water at high tide as it was built in the inter-tidal beach area. The area became marshy when the railway was built. The marsh was subsequently filled in to form Blackrock Park.

ARCHITECTURE & NATURE See the sights on a coastal walk from Blackrock to Booterstown DART station with the sea on one side and Blackrock Park on the other. Blackrock Park boasts green areas and trees, a well-equipped children’s playground, cycle paths and a pond with swans and the Peace Fountain. The story of the park is an unusual one. With the construction of the railway close to the shoreline, the space between the shore and the railway created an area that flooded with sea water at high tide. A smelly salty marsh became a cause of local discomfort for years until it was decided to fill the area in and create a park in the early 1870s.

A Novel Idea Irish novelist, playwright and satirist, Flann O’Brien (1911– 1966), lived at 4 Avoca Terrace and later at 81 Merrion Avenue in Blackrock. His real name was Brian O’Nolan and his day job was in the civil service until 1953. Some of his well-known novels include At SwimTwo-Birds and The Third Policeman. He also wrote many satirical columns in The Irish Times (and an Irish language novel, An Béal Bocht) under the name Myles na gCopaleen.

Blackrock Bandits The Blackrock Road was once a hotspot for highway robberies. In 1787, they were so commonplace that a local meeting was chaired by Lord Viscount Ranelagh to find a solution. They resolved to ‘give a reward of £20 to any person who will apprehend and prosecute to conviction any person guilty of a robbery upon the Blackrock-road, from Dublin to Dunleary, Bullock, Dalkey, Rochestown, Cabinteely, and Loughlinstown.’ 60 | Best Of Ireland Series

The Williamstown Martello Tower, now located in Blackrock Park, was built between 1804 and 1806, before the park was established. When the tower was built, it was surrounded by sea water at high tide as it was built in the inter-tidal beach area. It wasn’t until the filling in of the area to form the Blackrock Park that the tower found itself on dry land. The part of the tower visible today is actually the first floor (the ground floor is now buried). Go a little further on past Blackrock Park to Booterstown Nature Reserve, a saltwater marsh, where you are likely to see a variety of flora and wild bird species such as snipe, redshank, mallard, moorhen and sedge warbler. The 4 hectare area is sandwiched between the main road and DART line. It is a very important educational resource for biology students and the teaching of ecology. More information on www.friendsofbooterstown.ie.

Back in town see Blackrock’s Market Cross on Main Street. The cross dates from the eighth or ninth century. It is believed to have been a burial slab, as evidenced by the circle and band adorned on it, and to have belonged to the Celtic foundation of St. Mochanna in Monkstown. The present day cross is smaller as parts have been removed from it. It was moved to Blackrock in 1678 by Walter Cheevers and was shifted to several different locations in the area before it was finally moved to the Main Street.

COASTAL WALK FROM BLACKROCK TO BOOTERSTOWN

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Blackrock

A HOST OF THINGS TO DO

In Blackrock

maze of stalls you can ‘buy just about anything worth having’ according to the organisers. It is mostly indoor and has a variety of independent merchants selling everything from bric-a-brac to crafts, fashion accessories to flowers. If you’re peckish, there are food outlets and stalls selling baked goods, crêpes, fish and all sorts of other culinary delights. The market is open on Saturdays, Sundays and Bank Holidays from 11am–5.30pm www.blackrockilometrearket.com Blackrock is a top spot for shopping with two shopping centres and numerous shops and boutiques in the town. Blackrock Shopping Centre (01-2104618, www.blackrockcentre. ie) at the intersection of Rock Road and Frascati Road, has around 40 shops with a huge variety on offer. You will find art supplies, books, clothing and footwear, health food, a supermarket, cafes and more. Frascati Shopping Centre (01-2107666), just a short walk from the Blackrock DART station on Frascati Road, has department stores Marks & Spencer and Debenhams as well as shops specialising in fashion, household goods and more. Blackrock Market (01-2833522) is one of Dublin’s most established markets and in the unique atmosphere among the

Blackrock Bowling and Tennis Club (01-2881933) on Green Road has social and league tennis right through the year, with floodlights allowing tennis to be played up to 10pm each evening. Founded in 1906, it is a family-oriented club and welcomes new members to both bowling and tennis sections. For a bit of fun, get out on the green and have a go at bowls. www.blackrockbtc.ie

Hone your culinary skills at the Dublin Cookery School (01-2100555). Based at Brookfield Terrace in Blackrock, Lynda Booth’s school was the winner of ‘Best Cookery School in Ireland’ in 2013 and 2015 at the Irish Restaurant Awards. It has excellent facilities. Whether you are a total beginner or a confident cook, there is something for you here with its selection of evening, one-day and full time courses. DCS also runs professional courses and can accommodate corporate events and birthday/hen parties. www.dublincookeryschool.ie Culture vultures can experience the vibrant Irish art scene with a visit to the town’s art galleries including the Millrace Gallery (01-2880867, www.millracegallery.com) and Waldock Art Gallery (01-2781861, www.irishpaintings.com).

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Blackrock

More Sights To See

The Blackrock Library & Blackrock Further Education Institute building on Main Street was recently nominated in the Public Choice category in the Irish Architecture Awards 2015 and is an excellent example of old and new structures blending together. The complex includes the original Blackrock Town Hall, Carnegie Library and VEC school. There are several protected buildings here, all with decorative façades, from the 1860s and early 1900s. The modern additions include a glass atrium. The public library here celebrated its centenary in 2005.

Inbetweeners... Sutton, translated from the Irish ‘Cill Fhionntáin’ or Fintan’s Church, is a residential suburb at the base of Howth Head. It has leisure facilities including Sutton Golf Club, a bustling tennis club, dinghy sailing, a beautiful beach and a walking trail leading all the way to Howth village. It also has a Martello tower at Red Rock, which is a private residence and is available for rent.

and emaciated figures on Custom Internationally renowned sculptor, House Quay in Dublin commemorating Rowan Gillespie, was born in Blackrock Ireland’s Great Famine in the mid 1840s. in 1953. His work is quite unique and his public creations can be seen in Ireland, Europe and North Blackrock Dolmen America. One of his works can be seen near the Blackrock bypass and Temple Road. Named ‘Blackrock Dolmen,’ it ‘depicts three elegantly elongated figures holding up a large capstone to symbolise the essence of Blackrock.’ It is part of the Dún Laoghaire-Rathdown Sculpture Trail. www.dlrcoco. © Sarah777 ie/arts/dlr_sculpture_map Rowan makes much of his work in a purpose-built bronze casting foundry at Clonlea in There are many houses of worship in Blackrock. One of his most famous Blackrock. The Catholic Church of St. works is ‘Famine,’ a series of haunting John the Baptist on Temple Hill dates

3000

The sum in pounds granted by Andrew Carnegie towards the Carnegie Library, built in 1905. 62 | Best Of Ireland Series

back to 1845. For more information and mass times, see www.sjb.ie. The Church of the Guardian Angels, Newtownpark Avenue also serves the local Roman Catholic congregation. The likes of St. Philip and St. James’ Church, established in 1824 (www. booterstown.dublin.anglican.org) on Cross Avenue between Booterstown and Blackrock and All Saints Church at Carysfort Avenue (www. stbrigidsandallsaints.com) serve the local Church of Ireland community. St. Andrew’s Presbyterian Church on Mountmerrion Avenue was built in the 1890s and some items in the church, such as the communion table and baptismal font, have been there since the first mass was celebrated in 1899. For more information and mass times, see www.standrewsblackrockpc.org.

Blackrock in

2011

The year the Blackrock Animation Film Festival started. It has now been renamed The Dublin Animation Film Festival.

Numbers 80 1996 The highest point in metres in Blackrock.

The year Blackrock Market started.

The journey time in minutes from Dublin’s city centre to Blackrock by DART.

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Salthill & Monkstown

ALIGHT AT

Salthill &

Monkstown

estled between Blackrock and Dun Laoghaire, Monkstown (Baile na Manach) is an ideal location to spend a fun day out. Surrounded by historic buildings, you can take in the architecture of the Victorian, Georgian and Edwardian periods as well as the pretty coastline. This notable suburb gets a mention in volumes as diverse as James Joyce’s Dubliners and Ross O’Carroll-Kelly’s Guide to (South) Dublin: How To Get By On, Like, €10,000 A Day by Paul Howard (a faux travel guide written by fictional hero Ross).

seized by King Henry VIII and given to Sir John Travers in 1539. In 1580, it was given to Sir Henry Wallop, then in 1640, it was passed to Walter Cheevers until it was finally purchased by the Archbishop of Armagh, Michael Boyle. His son, Murrough, built on to the castle, making it a very impressive residence in its day. In 1837, a new railway track transformed Monkstown from a rural area to a commuter suburb of Dublin City. The seaside location makes it wonderful for walks and for the more adventurous, a dip in the sea at Seapoint. Enjoy various leisure activities or enjoy a magical visit to the Lambert Puppet Theatre & Museum.

Historically known as ‘Carrickbrennan,’ Monkstown has a colourful history. The castle here is said to have been built by the monks of the abbey of the Virgin Mary around 1250. The estate was

For shopaholics and browsers, there is an abundance of unusual and interesting shops to choose from, whether you want clothing, wine, flowers, or items that will improve the interior design of your home. There is also a weekly market where you can purchase organic food and browse a variety of stalls.

Daytime or evening, whatever cuisine you fancy, you will not be stuck for choice. Then why not venture to one of the lively pubs, popular with locals and tourists alike. Or for those who prefer more traditional entertainment, at Craobh Chualann, a branch of Comhaltas Ceoltóirí Eíreann, you can enjoy an evening or even take part in a session of traditional Irish music. www.monkstownvillage.com

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Monkstown

fast facts Up Periscope Sir Howard Grubb (1844–1931) who lived in Longford Terrace, Monkstown invented the periscope which could be used in wartime submarines during World War I. He had worked with his father’s firm, the Grubb Telescope Company. Grubb telescopes were also supplied to the Dunsink and Armagh observatories. Incidentally, another Irishman, John Philip Holland, from Clare first came up with the idea of submarines in the 1870s.

Star Struck Dame Margaret Lindsay Huggins (1848–1915) who lived in 23 Longford Terrace, Monkstown, invented photographic spectroscopy, which is the analysis of electromagnetic radiation to determine the properties of an astronomical object. Her work centred on the study of the Orion Nebula, which showed that the nebula consisted of gases rather than stars as previously believed.

Missionary Link Mother Mary Martin (1892–1975), the Foundress of Medical Missionaries of Mary, lived in Greenbank, Monkstown, which was a stately home on the site where Carrickbrennan Lawn is situated today. She volunteered as a nurse during World War I, then was a lay missionary in Africa, and by 1937 she had made her Profession of Vows and then went about setting up the missionary order which now works in 16 countries.

64 | Best Of Ireland Series

Inbetweeners...

Salthill & Monkstown

Seapoint is best known for its beach and bathing areas, which lie beside a Martello tower on the seashore. Harmonstown, Killester and Glenageary are all pleasant residential suburbs with some shops and amenities.

LOTS OF THINGS TO DO is a state of the art gymnasium or for fun filled family frolics, there are many activities for all the family such as a skate park and an all weather pitch. www.dlrleisureservices.ie/monkstown

Monkstown’s nearest beach is Seapoint Beach (there is a DART stop here too) and this is ideal for swimmers and beach goers. The beach is flat and shallow and you can swim at high tide in this area. The north side of the beach is favoured by bathers. At the south of the beach, the sea covers some of the rocks so swimmers should take care. This section is popular for canoeing, surfing and jet skiing. A restored 19th century Martello tower adorns the beach too. As well as picturesque walks and watersports for outdoor enthusiasts, for those who prefer a more luxurious swim and changing facilities, DLR Leisure Services (01-2301458) has an indoor pool here. For fitness enthusiasts, there

For budding tennis stars, Monkstown Lawn Tennis Club (01-2842582) has excellent facilities. www.monkstownltc.com Monkstown Village Market, which runs every Saturday throughout the year from 10am–4pm, is heaven for browsers and fans of organic produce. You can buy delicious cheese, olives, many Italian products, mouthwatering baked goods and unique crafts and jewellery.

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Dún Laoghaire

INTRODUCING

Dún Laoghaire

l arge coastal town south of Dublin, Dún Laoghaire is steeped in maritime history and adorned with Victorian architecture. The DART station is right by the harbour, which boasts pier walks and the largest marina in Ireland.

The development of the town is largely connected to its importance as a port. Dún Laoghaire means ‘fort of Laoghaire’ referring to a 5th century High King of Ireland, Laoghaire Mac Néill, who chose the site as a sea base from which to carry out raids on Britain and Gaul. The tables were turned and it later served as a major port of entry to Ireland from Great Britain. Victorian Bandstand Building of the new harbour started in 1817 and King George IV Kingstown Town Commissioners came to view the progress in 1821 and was set up in 1834 and organised the renamed the town Kingstown. One of the building of the Town Hall as well largest man-made harbours in the world, as the transformation of a disused its completion led to a new era for the quarry into People’s Park, among town and in 1834, Ireland’s first railway other developments in the town. Dún opened, running from Dublin city centre Laoghaire returned to its former name in to Kingstown. The railway resulted in 1920 in the run up to the foundation of the relocation of the mail packet boat to the Irish Free State. the town and helped establish Kingstown The harbour can accommodate cruise as a preferred suburb of Dublin and a ships and they are a familiar sight popular holiday destination. here. Approximately 100,000 cruise

passengers and crew visited local shores in 2015, with similar numbers expected for 2016. There are many attractions and activities in Dún Laoghaire. Sailing is a common pursuit with yacht clubs, sailing schools and rowing clubs in abundance. The 820-berth marina is the largest in the country and the first in Ireland to be awarded a 5 Gold Anchor rating. The biennial Dún Laoghaire Regatta is one of the biggest sailing events in Ireland. Other water sports available locally include powerboating, paddleboarding, kayaking and scuba diving. Many more prefer being by the water than on it, with walkers a familiar sight up and down the two long piers forming the harbour. Cyclists will find plenty of routes, on and off road, to enjoy too. From climbing to sightseeing cruises, adventure to culture, visitors are never short of things to do here. After all that sea air, you’ll find plenty of bars and bistros, cafes and restaurants to satisfy your appetite. There are several hotels and B&Bs in the town, some offering amazing sea views. For more information on what to see and do, visit Dún Laoghaire’s Tourist Information Centre at County Hall on Marine Road or see www.dlrtourism.ie. Best Of Ireland Series | 65

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Dún Laoghaire

fast facts U-Boats

In October 1918, a German submarine torpedoed the Royal Mail Steamer Leinster off Dún Laoghaire, killing 500 people, many of whom were locals working and travelling on the mail boats. In World War II, Dún Laoghaire was hit directly, by German bombs which landed near the People’s Park.

Must-See

SIGHTS & STROLLS Dún Laoghaire Pier

Dún Laoghaire Harbour is one of the largest in the country and is notable for its two granite piers. The East pier is 1.6 kilometre and the quieter West Pier is slightly longer. The East Pier is particularly popular with walkers and was featured in the 1996 movie Michael Collins. The Dún Laoghaire Harbour Company restored the picturesque bandstand here to its original condition in 2010. On your stroll, ice cream cone or hot, salty chips in hand perhaps you 66 | Best Of Ireland Series

Twin Cities

Dún Laoghaire enjoys a town twinning relationship with three cities in three different nations; Brest in France, Izumo in Japan and Holyhead in Wales. The town once had a literal connection with Holyhead too because of the seasonal ferry connection between the two places.

may even see people fishing from the end of either pier. People fish here yearround but the most popular time is May to September. People’s Park has been open to the public since 1890 and features great examples of Victorian architecture including the Gate Lodge, Tea Rooms and a bandstand featuring the original gaslight standards. It is well maintained and has beautiful flower displays for most of the year. The park has a cafe and a playground and hosts a bustling market every Sunday. Find it on the Park Road between Glasthule and the seafront, about 10 minutes walk from the DART station. www.dlrcoco.ie/Parks See the sculptures on the Sculpture Trail, a significant collection of public sculpture and monuments in the Dún Laoghaire Rathdown area. The trail map (find it on www.dlrcoco.ie/arts) details 39 pieces altogether with several around Dún Laoghaire. There’s Richard Enda King’s ‘Vigil’ at the fire station and ‘Journey through the Centre of the Shell Sculpture Earth,’ ‘George IV Testimonial’ and ‘Christ the King’ pieces near the piers. Dún Laoghaire has World War I memorials for its for its fallen soldiers, including the above-

Grunge Rock

A little-known band played here in 1991. The venue was the Top Hat Ballroom and the band was Nirvana. At that time, they were the supporting act at a Sonic Youth concert but enjoyed massive global success in the grunge rock scene, particularly with the release of album, Nevermind. The group was disbanded in 1994 when lead singer, Kurt Cobain, took his own life.

t Oratory of the Sacred Hear

mentioned statue of Christ the King by Andrew O’Connor and the Oratory of the Sacred Heart in the old grounds of the Dominican convent. It was built in 1919 to house a statue of the sacred heart sent from Flanders. The walls and ceilings are beautifully decorated in Celtic revival style by Sister Concepta Lynch and windows are by Harry Clarke, a renowned Irish artist of the time. Telephone in advance for visits (01-2054700).

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Dún Laoghaire

REWARDING THE EXPLORER

Dún Laoghaire

Dún Laoghaire Harbour

TO ENJOY A SPOT OF SWIMMING, THE CLOSEST BEACHES TO DÚ N LAOGHAIRE ARE SEAPOI NT, SAN DYCOVE AN D KILLINEY. THE FAMOUS FORTY FOOT IS NEARBY Whether you want to learn about heritage, do an activity or even combine both, Dún Laoghaire has much to offer. Opened in late 2014, DLR LexIcon, Dún Laoghaire’s new library, cultural and community space, is ultramodern inside and out. The building is 29 metres above street level and has three main floors as well as stunning views from the large windows. There are thousands of books of all genres available for lending and reference on the oak shelves as well as open study spaces, reading and meeting rooms, a municipal art gallery, a large new junior library and numerous internet portals. The top floor is dedicated to local history, with many resources to help with research. There are regular events for all ages from storytelling to art exhibitions. More information on events is available on http://libraries. dlrcoco.ie/events-and-news/eventcalendar. Housed in the historic former Mariners’ Church on Haigh Terrace, the National Maritime Museum of Ireland (01-2800969) is a fascinating voyage through time and all things nautical. The museum’s collection covers all facets of maritime heritage. The building, built in 1837, offers a great selection of artefacts

and exhibits illustrating various aspects of a seafaring nation. www.mariner.ie The Pavilion Theatre (01-2312929) on Marine Road is Dún Laoghaire’s municipal theatre and it runs a varied and extensive programme including live music, theatre, comedy and a range of children’s programmes in its spacious modern auditorium. Booking ahead is advised. www.paviliontheatre.ie Dublin Bay Cruises (01- 9011757) operates cruises between Dún Laoghaire, Dublin Port and Howth Harbours with a large range of excursions. It offers passengers ‘a unique opportunity to see Dublin from a different perspective as they take in the panoramic views and discover the wonderful wildlife reserves that string the bay from north to south of Dublin’s coastline.’ www.dublinbaycruises.com

National Maritime Museum of Ireland

Get active with a huge choice of fun stuff to get involved in. Aboveboard Water Sports Centre (01-2804774) on the West Pier offers kite surfing, wake boarding and stand up paddle boarding lessons and excursions. www. aboveboard.ie CP Adventure Dún Laoghaire (087-9803201) has a wide range of activities/tours on land and sea, from kayaking to rock climbing to Segway tours and bike rental. www.CPAdventure.ie To see under the sea, Oceandivers (01-2801083) is a PADI Diving school based here. www.oceandivers.ie For a family-friendly activity, Dún Laoghaire Cycle Tours (086-8758744) provides guided cycling tours from Dún Laoghaire to Killiney and back, with plenty of scenery and history to drink in along the way. This is a ‘fantastic way to explore a slice of Ireland’s east coast while staying active and enjoying the outdoors!’ www.facebook.com/ dunlaoghairecyclingtours To enjoy a spot of swimming, the closest beaches to Dún Laoghaire are Seapoint, Sandycove and Killiney. The famous Forty Foot (see page 72) is nearby too. These are just a selection of activity providers operating in the area and www.dlrtourism.ie lists many more. Best Of Ireland Series | 67

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Dún Laoghaire

A feast of Festivals & Events Discover ...

1916 Celebrations. As Ireland celebrates the centenary of the 1916 Rising, there are a host of 1916 commemorations happening all over and Dún Laoghaire is no different. There will at io n1 916 be a free exhibition in Deansgrange Cemetery telling the story of the Rising from ‘the people and personal experiences of those associated with the area.’ There will also be 1916 tours each Wednesday at 2pm to complement the exhibit.

Market in People’s Park

cla Pro lic p ub Irish Re

Experience the sights, sounds and smells of the Market in People’s Park (01-2047024) on Sundays from 11am–4pm. There are over 50 vendors each Sunday selling a wide range of products including hot food, baked goods, artisan and local food products, as well as arts and crafts. There will be music on the renovated bandstand throughout the summer. www.dlrcoco.ie

See ...

Enjoy ... There are many events in Dún Laoghaire all year round, including the annual Mountains to Sea Book Festival March 22nd to March 26th 2017 www.mountainstosea.ie. A celebration of literature and poetry, there are many wonderful writers to see and hear. At Dún Laoghaire Harbour the Beatyard festival will take place over two days, July 30th and 31st, combining ‘three areas of music, great food, drinks and games under one roof.’ Performers include Snarky Puppy, Lee Scratch Perry and Charles Bradley among others. www.the-beatyard.com. The 86th annual Dun Laoghaire Harbour Swim will take place on 21st August 2016 as well as a series of Marine Artists exhibits. The KBC Laser Radial World Championship will also come to the harbour from 23rd to 30th July. This is the first time the competition will be hosted in Ireland. See www.dlharbour.ie for more details.

At the DLR Lexicon there are exhibits and talks about the involvement of the Royal College of Surgeons in the Easter Rising (www.rcsi.ie/2016) as well as a travelling exhibit ‘Little Stories Little Prints’ which highlights the little known events of the Rising. www. littlestorieslittleprints.com. Throughout the summer the DLR Lexicon will put on a number of events in the exciting world of science and technology. You can learn how 3D printing works, there are coder dojos for children and Minecraft workshops too. From April to June 2016 Dún Laoghaire hosts an EXPLORING NATURE festival with plenty of events for little ones and big ones alike. With a strong focus on biodiversity, the events are perfect for those with an interest in natural history and nature conservation. For more information on local events see www.dlrevents.ie.

Dún Laoghaire in

The number of years it took to construct the harbour from 1817 to 1859. 68 | Best Of Ireland Series

1834

The year Ireland’s first railway from Dublin to Kingstown opened for business.

1932

Numbers 820 12

The year thousands of people lined the streets to welcome the Papal Legate on his journey from Dún Laoghaire to the centre of Dublin for the 31st Eucharistic Congress.

The berths in the marina here, the largest in the country.

The number in kilometres from Dublin city centre to Dún Laoghaire.

DINING OUT

Dún Laoghaire

MAO Dún Laoghaire

MAO Dún Laoghaire The Pavilion, Seafront, Dún Laoghaire 01-2148090 www.mymao.ie

Mmmm … Mao. One of the best Asian restaurant chains in Dublin, MAO brings contemporary Asian cuisine to Dún Laoghaire’s seafront. Feast the senses with a meal at MAO overlooking Dún Laoghaire harbour.

DINING OUT

Toscana

5 Windsor Terrace, Dún Laoghaire 01-2300890 www.toscana.ie When the sea air in Dún Laoghaire works up your appetite, visit the award winning Toscana restaurant on the sea front for a meal to remember. Open since 2001, Toscana Restaurant specialises in authentic Italian cuisine with an emphasis on organic, locallysourced produce, some of it coming from their own Wicklow garden. Enjoy a delicious lunch with sea views overlooking Dublin Bay, call in

Watch MAO’s passionate chefs at work as they prepare your meal using only the finest fresh ingredients. The fruits of their labour are always authentic, healthy and virtually low fat dishes, crammed full of flavour. Dishes range from mild or spicy curries, fragrant wok specials to the popular MAO classics with fish, beef, chicken, pork and tofu options. A variety of tasty appetisers, sides and desserts are also available and MAO offers a full drinks menu including wine, beer, spirits and cocktails.

AUTH ENTIC, HEALTHY AN D VIRTUALLY LOW FAT DISHES For a quick lunch, try one of their lunchbowl options such as black pepper beef, Thai green chicken curry or wok fried pork belly, available from 12-4pm weekdays for €9.95. MAO chefs are happy to cater to any special dietary requests. for a pre-theatre dinner with a glass of fine Italian wine, or go continental and enjoy your meal outdoors in Toscana’s new heated al fresco dining area.

AUTH ENTIC ITALIAN CU ISI NE WITH AN EMPHASIS ON ORGANIC Toscana offers several menu options including a great value wine and dine deal for two from Monday to Thursday, an Italian lunch menu on weekdays, and an a la carte menu and an early bird/ pre-theatre menu. The latter offers two courses for €18.95 or three courses for €21.95. A variety of wines and cocktails are also available. Altogether, Toscana offers a relaxed dining experience with an emphasis on excellent food and superb service. Toscana opens seven days from 12 noon to 10pm. Buon Appetito!

RETAIL

DÚN LAOGHAIRE

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Seán McManus Jewellers

58 George’s Street Lower, Dun Laoghaire 01-2802202 www.mcmanusjewellers.com Jewellery has a special place in all of our lives, whether it’s the emotion attached to an engagement ring, the memories clinging to an antique brooch or the pride of a classy pair of cuff links. When you make that special purchase, you want to know you are getting expert service and at Seán McManus Jewellers you can be sure of it.

A SU PERB SELECTION OF JEWELLERY Established in 1928, Seán McManus Jewellers stocks a superb selection of jewellery, both contemporary and antique, with an expertise in the latter. The silverwware range includes table ware, hip flasks and jewellery boxes, with a variety of gifts for special occasions and corporate gestures. They also provide an extensive range of after sale services that cover all areas such as engraving, valuations, jewellery restoration and repair as well as a design service should you like to give a new lease of life to an old gem stone. For heirlooms present and future, visit Seán McManus Jewellers. Best Of Ireland Series | 69

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Sandycove & Glasthule

NEXT STOP

Sandycove & Glasthule S a ndycove and Glasthule is one of Ireland’s treasured beauty spots in a picturesque seaside location. It is situated between the flourishing town of Dún Laoghaire and Dalkey village. This area is a sanctuary of natural beauty and tranquillity for visitors looking to relax for the day.

The area of Sandycove and Glasthule is also rich in artistic and political history and has some interesting literary connections.

beautiful shops, cafes and restaurants offering a gourmet experience including local seafood for the visitor after a day’s exploring.

Roger Casement, the Irish activist, nationalist and poet, was born in 1864 in Sandycove. The celebrated writer James Joyce lived in Sandycove for a time. Well known Irish stage and television actress Maureen Toal’s home was in Sandycove up to her death in 2012.

There is no shortage of things to do for the visitor to Sandycove and Glasthule. Be sure to

For those wishing to spend the night in this magical area there are a few nice bed and breakfasts to choose from. www.sandycoveglasthule.com

/Shutterstock

Glasthule is the main setting for Jamie O’Neill’s 2001 novel At Swim, Two Boys and the wider area is also featured in Flann O’Brien’s book, At Swim-TwoBirds. Sandycove is also well known for its historic bathing area known as the Forty Foot. In addition to its beauty and rich literary and political connections, Sandycove and Glasthule are bustling villages with a wide selection of 70 | Best Of Ireland Series

call to the James Joyce Museum, which is based in one of the early 19th century Martello towers dotted along the coast. The Sandycove Heritage Trail is a charming walk around this historic coastal village.

Sandycove

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Sandycove & Glasthule

fast facts Air Strikes

The railway station here was bombed by the Luftwaffe on the 20th December, 1940 despite the fact that Ireland was a neutral country in World War II. There were three injuries but no fatalities. There are several theories as to why German planes bombed Ireland but it may have simply been by mistake because of the close proximity to Northern Ireland and the UK.

Links to

JAMES JOYCE

The James Joyce Tower & Museum (01-2809265) is situated in the iconic Martello tower in Sandycove, which has a real-life connection with Ireland’s world-renowned author of tomes like Dubliners, A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man and Ulysses. The tower was commissioned by the British and built by local man, John Murray, in 1804 as part of a series of military defenses all over Ireland. As time passed, some of these structures were converted for private use.

James Joyce

Not just an Act

Up and coming actor Jason O’Mara hails from Sandycove. Born in 1972, Jason has starred in American television network dramas such as Life on Mars, Terra Nova and Vegas as well as Band of Brothers and Monarch of the Glen.

In 1904, James Joyce stayed in this tower as the guest of Oliver St. John Gogarty who was renting it. At the time Gogarty was a medical student but he later became noted in Irish history as a surgeon, politician and writer. Joyce only stayed at the tower for a short while but it was enough to provide inspiration for the opening setting of his influential, modernist novel, Ulysses. In the novel, the character, Stephen Dedalus, lives in the tower with a medical student, Malachi ‘Buck’ Mulligan. The Joyce collection in the museum includes letters, photographs, first and rare editions and personal belongings. In addition, there are items associated with the Dublin portrayed in Ulysses. From the top of the tower there are breathtaking views of Dublin Bay. The museum is open daily from 10am–6pm (10am–4pm in winter). Admission is free. www.jamesjoycetower.com Sandycove and Glasthule and the James Joyce Museum play a central role in the annual Bloomsday celebrations on the 16th June, which is the day in 1904 over which Ulysses takes place. The celebration is named for protagonist,

Lifeboats

The first lifeboat station in Ireland was established at Sandycove in 1803. On the 28th December, 1821 a lifeboat from this location rescued the crew of the brig Ellen of Liverpool; four volunteer lifeboatmen drowned. The names of all crew members who lost their lives are inscribed on the RNLI memorial sculpture at the Royal National Lifeboat Institution (RNLI) headquarters in Poole, UK.

The James Jo yce Tower & M

useum

Leopold Bloom. Events include readings and re-enactments of events in the book and they take place all over Dublin, Ireland and the world. The first Bloomsday celebrated in Ireland was in 1954 when the writers Patrick Kavanagh and Flann O’Brien visited the Martello tower at Sandycove, Davy Byrne’s pub and 7 Eccles Street, reading parts of Ulysses and enjoying high jinx as they went. For more information on Bloomsday and Joyce, visit www.jamesjoyce.ie.

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Sandycove & Glasthule

ACTIVITIES GALORE

The People’s Park

SAN DYCOVE HARBOU R IS GREAT FOR THOSE VISITORS WHO WANT TO DO A BIT OF SNORKELLING AN D EXPLORE THE WATERS. There is an abundance of outdoors activities and sites to visit in Sandycove, Glasthule and the surrounding area for visitors who would like lots of fresh air on a visit to this spectacular location. The People’s Park is a public park just 10 minutes’ walk from Sandycove beach. The park is small but perfect for a picnic. It has a playground, a bandstand and tearoom for those who need a recharge. If you visit on a Sunday, you will get to experience some great local produce at the Farmers’ Market. Sandycove Harbour is great for those visitors who want to do a bit of snorkelling and explore the waters. It is known as one of the best safe diving 72 | Best Of Ireland Series

spots on the east coast. To see under the sea, Oceandivers (01-2801083) is a PADI Diving school based here. www.oceandivers.ie The Forty Foot, a historic bathing pool on a promontory on the southern tip of Dublin Bay, is a short walk from the James Joyce Tower. It used to be a male The Forty Foot

only swimming spot but today both men and women enjoy a swim here. The character of Buck Mulligan in James Joyce’s Ulysses takes a dip in the Forty Foot. People have been swimming here for the past 250 years. The origin of the name is unclear. It has been speculated that it may have been called after the British army regiment, the 42nd Highland Regiment of Foot, which may have been stationed here. Other suggestions put forward include the depth of the water (which is actually less than 40 feet) and the width of the road leading to the bathing spot. Sandycove Beach is a lovely small inlet with fine sand. The visitor can take a dip in the sea off the pier area above the cove or just walk out to the water from the beach. There is a lifeguard on duty in high season. The beach is packed in summer so you need to come early to secure your spot and there is always an ice cream van in high season selling drinks and other treats.

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Sandycove & Glasthule

Sandycove Heritage Trail Discover ...

Explore ...

The Sandycove Heritage Trail is a tourism trail published by the active Tidy Towns committee in Sandycove. It starts in the People’s Park and stretches to the James Joyce Tower & Museum. The third stop on the trail is the DART station so walkers can continue from there or double back. There are many interesting stops on the trail taking in Sandycove’s heritage and important landmarks. This walk is great for history buffs. The People’s Park at the start of the walk was known as Glasthule Quarry in the late 18th century. The second stop is the Metals Walkway which was laid in 1816 to provide a way of carrying stone from quarries to the site for the new harbour at Dún Laoghaire. Then the walk moves on to the Sandycove and Glasthule DART Station. This was opened in 1855 by the Dublin and Kingstown Railway.

Sandycove baths, dating back to the 19th century, is en route. The journey on this heritage trail moves on to Joyce’s Tower built in 1804, the famous Forty Foot and Sandycove castle, which is an example of mid-19th century villas built in the area. The trail takes the visitor to a stretch of water known as Scotsman’s Bay and the Nun’s Bathing place with magnificent views on the coastline. The walk takes about an hour to do. It is suited to all age groups as there are no difficult climbs and you can see the local flora and fauna along the way too. A copy of the trail is available at the James Joyce Tower & Museum or by emailing sandycovetidytowns@gmail.com.

The James Joyce Tower & Museum

Visitors on this heritage trail will also stop at St. Joseph’s Church, Glasthule, built in 1868 and designed by architects Pugin and Ashlin in a neoGothic style. Other notable stops include Tara Hall, the home of the late Monk Gibbon, author and poet from 1948 to 1985. Visitors will also pass 29 Sandycove Road, which is thought to be the house where Roger Casement, a leading figure in the 1916 Rebellion, was born.

Sandycove & Glasthule in Numbers 1855

The year Sandycove & Glasthule railway station opened.

112

The anniversary of Bloomsday on June 16th, 2016.

2001

The year Jamie O’Neill’s novel, At Swim, Two Boys, was published.

3735

The urban population of Sandycove in 2006.

Coupled with ‘Foot’ is the name of a famous bathing spot here.

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SANDYCOVE & GLASTHULE

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PUB

Sandycove & Glasthule

Fitzgerald’s of Sandycove

Fitzgerald’s is a short distance from the DART Station and the emphasis is on the literary and many photos of famous authors and novels decorate the walls but none more so than memorabilia relating to Joyce himself.

CAFE

ON E OF TH E CITY’S LAST VICTORIAN PU BS

Fitzgerald’s of Sandycove 11 Sandycove Road, Sandycove 01-2804469

www.fitzgeraldsofsandycove.webs.com

If you want to experience a Dublin watering hole as it was in times gone by, Fitzgerald’s is one of the city’s last Victorian pubs and can claim James Joyce among its clientele. As quaint today as it was when established in 1861, the period furniture and fittings gives it an authentic feel and punters get a good, old fashioned welcome.

There are 18 stained glass windows depicting scenes from Ulysses. Annually on June 16, the pub goes all out to celebrate the work of the author on Bloomsday (the day Ulysses is set). Lunch is served daily from 12.30– 3.30pm, serving homemade soups, salads, hot wraps, gourmet bagels, freshly made sandwiches; all made from locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. For its relaxed and charming atmosphere, Fitzgerald’s of Sandycove deserves a literary prize!

Music

fast facts

Eminent Irish rock band, U2, have many connections to places in Dublin and on the DART route. The band, Bono, The Edge, Adam Clayton and Larry Mullen Jnr., formed in 1976 in Mount Temple Comprehensive School in Clontarf. Lead singer, Paul Hewson got his famous nickname from a shop, Bonavox Hearing Aids, which is just off O’Connell Street. U2 played their first gig at St. Stephen’s Green (marked with a Rock ‘n Stroll plaque). 74 | Best Of Ireland Series

The group have made a lot of recordings at Windmill Lane, situated just south of the Liffey in the Dublin Docklands. They shot the video for song ‘The Sweetest Thing’ around several Dublin streets. Bono and The Edge own The Clarence Hotel in the city. Bono married his childhood sweetheart, Ali, with Adam Clayton as best man, in All Saints Church in Raheny. U2 have been awarded the Freedom of Dublin. Several band members live in the city’s suburbs. To date, U2 has released 13 studio albums and are among the all-time bestselling music artists having sold more than 150 million records worldwide.

Juggy’s Well Restaurant

Juggy’s Well Restaurant 3 Glasthule Road 01-2148451

Confirmed by many as having the best apple tart, scones and brown bread in Dublin, this is a good enough reason to stop at Juggy’s Well. Established in 1991, in a converted Georgian house, this unique restaurant prides itself on being a welcoming family run business, offering healthy wholesome home cooked food. With an open fire for those cold wintery days, the daytime restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea. For lunch, the specialties include homemade quiches, soups, salads, chicken liver pâté, sandwiches and main dishes include, Irish stew, bacon and cabbage, beef Stroganoff, pan-fried sea bass and oven baked salmon to name but a few. If you have a sweet tooth, you can indulge in Nell’s famous apple tart, rolled pavlova, Victoria sponge or bakewell almond squares plus many more. Gluten free options include chocolate brownies, lemon drizzle or coffee Madeira cake. A range of coffees, teas and wines are on offer too. Guests can dine indoors or in good weather, on the attractive roof terrace. Juggy’s Well is open Monday to Saturday 9am–5pm. It is owned and managed by Nell Fitzgerald and her daughters, Ann and Katherine. Catering for parties is available upon request. Find them on Facebook @Juggy’s Well Restaurant.

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Sandycove & Glasthule

Film

CAFE

fast facts Bray & Ardmore Studios Neil Jordan’s movie The Miracle was set in Bray and a lot of the television series, Ballykissangel, was filmed here. Ardmore Studios in the town have been used for lots of films and small screen projects such as The Tudors (Christ Church Cathedral in Dublin was used in the series too), Moone Boy, Breakfast on Pluto, King Arthur, Ella Enchanted, In America, The Lion in Winter, Braveheart … the list goes on and on!

Wicklow Killruddery House in County Wicklow was featured in Far and Away and My Left Foot and the Wicklow Mountains provided a spectacular backdrop for such hit films like Excalibur, Lassie, Reign of Fire, Braveheart and Michael Collins.

64 Wine

64 Glasthule Rd, Sandycove, Co. Dublin 01-2805664 www.64wine.ie If you are something of a wine connoisseur, or just love the cafe culture of the continent, then a visit to 64 Wine is sure to satisfy you. The tempting aromas of coffee and freshly baked bread are irresistible and clients keep coming back, whether it’s

RETAIL & DINING Cavistons

Around Dublin My Left Foot, PS I Love You, Haywire, Tara Road, The General, Veronica Guerin, Leap Year and Albert Nobbs, to name but a few movies, have scenes in them that were filmed around Dublin. For more information on film locations in and around Dublin, see www.visitdublin.com/insiderguides or MovieMaps at www.irishfilmboard.ie

Cavistons

58/59 Glasthule Road, Sandycove Shop 01-2809120 Restaurant 01- 2809245 www.cavistons.com From humble beginnings selling fish, Cavistons has grown into a fresh food emporium of the finest. The first incremental step in their big success was selling cooked chickens of a Sunday morning over 50 years ago, quite a revolutionary move that quickly won the custom of hungry regulars. From there they branched out into freshly made salads, cold meats,

for coffee and cake or fine wine and cheese. The cafe’s interior is rustic, resembling a wine cellar, with its aged brick arch and wooden shelves. The wine menu is extensive with carefully chosen vintages from around the world, including organic and biodynamic wines, served by the glass or bottle.

COFFEE AN D CAKE OR FIN E WI NE AN D CH EESE Start the day with a flaky French croissant and a good cup of Italian coffee, or pop in for a tasty lunch, a sandwich on sourdough or crusty fig bread, or the cheesy croque monsieur. Antipasti, cheese and meat plates are also on the menu. A variety of wines, charcuterie, cheese and more. are also available to take home. cheeses, traditional pies and wholesome ready-meals. For great food on the go, Cavistons offers gourmet sandwiches, homemade soups and quality coffees from their deli counter. The in-house bakery prepares fresh staples and treats daily including spelt breads, French sticks, ciabatta, bagels, scones, cheesecakes, flour-free chocolate cake and more. Pop by the counter for some samples.

CAVISTONS’ RANGE OF PRODUCE IS SPECIAL Cavistons’ range of produce is special, local and organic where possible with a fine selection of artisan Irish products and some exotic finds, like Brie de Meaux with truffles. Their acclaimed restaurant serves lunch Tuesday to Saturday from 12–5pm and evening meals Thursday to Saturday from 6pm.

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Dalkey

STOPPING BY

Dalkey O

nce you step off the DART in the Heritage Town of Dalkey, you can see history and modernity side by side. Heritage Towns of Ireland are so designated ‘because of their unique character provided by a combination of architectural styles, often spanning many centuries, which gives them, and their visitors, a special feeling for the past’ as well as the careful way in which their historical features are presented. Dalkey certainly inspires such a feeling. The medieval town with its cluster of historical attractions and walks will inspire you. The awardwinning Heritage Centre brings history to life in a tangible and interesting way.

Dalkey Castle & Heritage Centre

Dalkey is shaped by the sea, as are many towns along the DART line. Dalkey is different however, in that it once had the most important harbour in Dublin. Coliemore Harbour was the preferred port of entry from Viking times up to the 17th century. The Normans traded from here and built seven castles, serving as fortified warehouses, to ward off marauders. Before the construction of 76 | Best Of Ireland Series

Dún Laoghaire harbour, the deep waters of Dalkey Sound acted as the proverbial, and real, ‘port in a storm.’ Dalkey has served the city in another important way. The great granite quarries of Dalkey supplied flagstones for the city and most of the stone used to build Dún Laoghaire Harbour as well as the South Bull Wall, part of the outer defence of Dublin Harbour. Quarrying went on for a

century and in 1914 the land was added to Killiney Hill Park. The quarry has since metamorphosed into a Mecca for rock climbers. Deilginis, (or ‘Thorn Island’ as it translates into English) is the inspiration behind the name Dalkey. Providing shelter for the harbours, it is also a nature haven and has several historical features making it well worth the short boat trip from Coliemore. Various water sports are popular in these waters with equipment and lessons widely available. Dalkey offers the opportunity to rub shoulders with the stars as many well-known creative artists, writers, musicians, film directors and rock stars live in the vicinity. Michelle Obama stopped off here on her official visit to Ireland to have lunch with U2’s Bono in local pub Finnegan’s. The wellmaintained houses and shopfronts are easy on the eye while the tasteful cafes, pubs and restaurants offer great fare. For a day to be remembered, take a daytrip to historic Dalkey. www.ilovedalkey.com

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Dalkey

Explore a

fast facts UNIQUE PAST Dalkey as a Port Dalkey’s Coliemore Harbour and the deep waters of Dalkey Sound acted as the port for Dublin between the 14th and 17th centuries. The name Coliemore is from ‘Caladh Mór’ meaning ‘large landing place’ in Irish. Once Ringsend was developed in the late 1500s, Dalkey’s prominence as a port declined.

Dalkey Village maintains its medieval streetscape and the main street, Castle Street, boasts a 10th century church and two 14th century Norman castles. The award-winning Dalkey Castle & Heritage Centre (for more details see page 76) is a must-see. After enjoying the interactive exhibits of the centre, visitors are led internally to a Writers’ Gallery and externally to St. Begnet’s Church & Graveyard. There are also guided walks and living history tours with a theatrical touch, presenting Dalkey’s unique heritage in an entertaining way. www.dalkeycastle.com Dalkey Castle & Heritage Centre

St. Begnet’s Church Begnet was an Irish princess who fled from an unwanted suitor and embraced Christianity. She founded two churches, one on Dalkey Island and the other is part of Dalkey Castle & Heritage Centre. St. Begnet’s became an important meeting point for missionaries on their way to Glendalough.

Friend of William Shakespeare Dalkey native, John Dowland, was a renowned musician in the royal courts in the 1600s and a friend of William Shakespeare. His description of Dalkey Jo is believed to hn Dow e have inspired land Plaqu the setting for Elsinore in the play, Hamlet. You’ll see a plaque dedicated to Dowland in Sorrento Park.

Coliemore Ha

rbour

Lamb Island, all to the northwest, form part of the ridge of the island. Birdwatch Ireland has established a colony of Roseate Terns on Maiden Rock. You can also spot Common Terns and Arctic Terns. At Coliemore Harbour, there is a public telescope if visitors want to have a closer look. To the northern end of Dalkey, Bullock Harbour is also a great place to visit and to try kayaking, diving, fishing and boat hire. Visitors can watch the lobster fishermen bringing in the day’s catch and chat to some of the characters living in the harbour.

The picturesque Coliemore Harbour is around 15 minute’s walk south of Dalkey. This small harbour served as Dublin’s main port between the 14th and 17th centuries. Today, the harbour is home to small fishing vessels and tour boats offering trips out to Dalkey Island. This harbour, lying to the south, offers great views of the 4 hectare Dalkey Island, lying some 300 metres off the coast. The island has a long history of habitation going back at least 6,500 years but is currently uninhabited. The well-preserved remains of a 10th century church dedicated to Saint Begnet and the early 19th century Martello tower are visible from the harbour. The Muglins are a group of rocks 500 metres to the northeast. The seas around the island are an important marine habitat for seals, dolphins and porpoises. Maiden Rock, Clare Rock and

There are several impressive parks around Dalkey for a stroll. Towards Sorrento Point there are two public parks. Sorrento Park on the right is a large wooded park, restored in 1994 on the centenary of its official opening. Features include a large granite plaque dedicated to the park’s patron, Lady MacDonnell, and a bandstand. Dillon’s Park, on the sea-side, is 440 metres long. Killiney Hill Park, at the summit of Killiney Hill, is not far away either. You can either go up the ‘Cat’s Ladder,’ a set of steps climbing the hillside or take a gentler route via the hill road.

ard urch & Gravey

St. Begnet’s Ch

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Dalkey

NEVER BE SHORT OF THINGS TO DO

In Dalkey Dalkey Island

lkey Quarry Climbing in Da

There are lots of fun activities to enjoy in and around Dalkey. For keen walkers and hikers, there are numerous guided and self-guided walks in the area. Along with historical guided walks, there are literary themed jaunts too. See www.dalkeycastle.com for more details. For DIY walks, you can go from the church on Castle Street to Coliemore Harbour and return via the Sorrento Road (1 hour). You can also walk from Coliemore Harbour to Killiney Beach/DART station, taking in some stunning views (1 hour). For more suggestions, see www.ilovedalkey.com. Dalkey Quarry is a top spot for rock climbing and abseiling. The disused granite quarry is part of Killiney Hill Kayaking in Dalkey

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Park and is one of the most significant rock-climbing crags in the country. The quarry’s first recorded climbs were made by members of the Irish Mountaineering Club (IMC) in 1942 and a handwritten guidebook was published marking a significant development for climbing in Ireland. Many of those first climbs remain popular and challenging routes and more have been added. Companies like Extreme Ireland Adventures (014100700, www.extremeireland.ie), The Adventure Agency (01-2542754, www. adventure.ie) and Adventure Burn (086-4012750, www.adventureburn. com) offer climbing lessons/courses and more. You can make your way to Dalkey Island by kayak, boat or cruise. Visit the 10th century St. Begnet’s Church and adjoining holy well believed to have miracle cures and see the Martello tower. The island is a great spot for fishing with pollock, coalfish, wrasse and mackerel off shore just waiting to be caught. Enjoy a picnic while looking out to sea, spot the occasional seal bobbing up and down and bottlenose dolphins have been

Dalkey Harbour

known to visit the area too. Kayaking.ie (086-1684755) runs daily kayaking tours and beginners’ lessons (Saturdays) in beautiful Bullock Harbour. www.kayaking.ie. For sightseeing and sea fishing, boat hire is available from Bullock Harbour too (012806517/01-2800915). Local fishermen also run trips in summer. If you’d rather savour the sea while staying on dry land, try fishing from Coliemore Harbour. For swimming, there are places near Dalkey including the Vico Bathing Place and Whiterock Beach (accessed off Vico Road), Sandycove Beach and the adjacent Forty Foot bathing place are a stroll away, beside the James Joyce Tower & Museum. If you’d like to discover an underwater world while diving, Dalkey Scubadivers (01-1234455) offer an opportunity to do just that. Founded in 1976, this recreational club runs training/ courses and its members go diving and snorkeling regularly off Dalkey Island and the Muglins as well as further afield. Open to all. www.dalkeyscubadivers.com

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HISTORY

Dalkey

Every day (except Tuesdays) actors from Deilg Inis Living History Theatre Company bring history to life in a fun and entertaining way. Characters include the Archer who with his longbow and sharp arrows defends the castle from attack. The visiting Barber Surgeon will trim your hair, extract your bad tooth and sometimes has a special offer on urine sampling! The Cook prepares delicious, culinary delights. On site, there is a fortified townhouse/ small castle, Early Christian church and graveyard, and modern Heritage Centre with interactive screens showing historical information (in 12 languages). The Writers’ Gallery has information on 45 writers and creative artists from Joyce to Bono and Beckett, Binchy and more. New to the Heritage Centre, the Maeve Binchy and Famous Irish Writers Walk begins in Dalkey Castle and passes over the streets these writers loved on Fridays at 13.30 June 3rd –September 2nd. Minimum numbers required. Dalkey Castle and Heritage Centre is open all year, six days a week (closed on Tuesdays).

Dalkey Castle & Heritage Centre

Dalkey Castle & Heritage Centre Castle Street, Dalkey 01-2858366 www.dalkeycastle.com

Visit the award-winning Dalkey Castle & Heritage Centre, where 21st century technology meets 15th century living history; the best of both worlds!

A host of Festivals & Events Experience ...

Dalkey Lobster Festival (August 2016, dates TBC) provides a generous helping of ‘lobster, crab and all that jazz.’ Not only will there be a delicious selection of

local seafood on offer, but it will be served up with vibrant musical entertainment. There is something for all ages at this event, which takes place in several local venues. Acclaimed singer/songwriter, Phil Coulter, will perform to open this year’s proceedings. For more information, 086-2615478 or www.facebook.com/ DalkeyLobsterFest.

If you’re not lucky enough to take in an event like this, any time of year is good for soaking up the atmosphere around Dalkey, with its trendy cafes and eateries, welcoming pubs, artisan food stores and quirky shops. Dalkey Book Festival is held annually in June. The festival was set up in 2010 to celebrate and foster the wealth of literary talent in the town and its environs. Since then the festival has hosted personalities and internationally renowned writers for talks, readings and discussions as well as other events like theatre and children’s workshops. www. dalkeybookfestival. org Bloomsday (16th June), honouring James Joyce, is often a big event in Dalkey too.

Dalkey in

1949

The year of the last journey of the No. 8 tram which used to run between the city centre and Dalkey on average every eight minutes. You can see the tracks still in the Tramyard.

1917

The year quarrying ended in Dalkey Quarry, after beginning around a century before.

Numbers 1804 5000 The year the Martello tower on Dalkey Island and many others were built.

The sum in pounds paid for the land which formed the original Killiney Hill Park when it opened in 1887.

The number of hectares on Dalkey Island, mainly inhabited by goats and rabbits.

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Killiney

Killiney WELCOME TO

lighting at Killiney DART station allows visitors to experience a small but idyllic seaside resort, which is also one of the most sought after addresses in south Dublin.

Lying north of Shankill and south of Dalkey, a vast proportion of Killiney village was owned for centuries by the Talbot de Malahide family who settled in the area soon after the Norman invasion of 1170. Its Irish name ‘Cill Iníon Léinín’ translates as ‘Church of the Daughters of Léinín.’ On the original 6th century site of this church in west Killiney, the ruins of an 11th century structure can be seen today. Killiney Hill Park was opened as a public park in 1887, then named Victoria Hill Park in honour of Queen Victoria’s 50 years on the throne. His Royal Highness, Prince Albert Victor of Wales, performed the official opening. This land, donated for the public park, was once part of the estate of Killiney Castle. The original house, Mount Mapas, was built in 1740 and it was enlarged by its new owner, Robert Warren, around 1840 and renamed Killiney Castle. The property is now Fitzpatrick’s Castle Hotel.

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Killiney Hill Park boasts breathtaking views spanning Killiney Bay, Bray Head and Great Sugar Loaf, one of the Wicklow Mountains. At the peak of the hill, 170 metres above sea level, there is an obelisk among other structures dotted around the park. Both the population and the popularity of Killiney grew from the late 1940s onwards due to its proximity to the growing capital city and the post-Victorian pastime of holidaying at the seaside. Its fabulous beach, only a short walk from the DART station, is often compared to the Bay of Naples in its style and coastline. It is no surprise then that

there are a spread of Mediterranean names on the surrounding roads and streets including Vico, Sorrento, Capri and San Elmo. The exclusive area is home to some of Ireland’s best known stars including singer Enya, Bono and The Edge, members of U2 Only a short trip from Dublin city centre, the quaint village is perfect for weekend breaks, a day at the beach, a hillside walk or a pleasant meal before heading back to the hustle and bustle of the city. y Hill Obelisk on Killine

Killiney

Kick Back in Killiney!

The long stony stretch of Killiney Beach has great views of Bray Head, Dalkey Island and Sorrento Terrace. The beach is suitable for swimming and bathing and has facilities for disabled users. The beach can be accessed from the car park with a walkway and ramps and handrails are also present in other areas. Also ideal for walkers and picnics, you might even see some bottlenose dolphins as they have been known to gather here occasionally.

Killiney Beach

Killiney Hill Park (formerly Victoria Hill) is a jewel in the crown of the seaside town with outstanding panoramic views, particularly from its peak (170 metres above sea level). There are plenty of paths around the park and around half is covered by mature woodland. It is a popular spot for walks, picnics and more. The 16th century obelisk at the summit is a prominent local landmark

1887

The year Victoria Hill Park (Killiney Hill Park) was opened as a public park.

HOTEL

Dublin Bay. Fitzpatrick Castle Hotel has 113 luxurious bedrooms and suites, 2 award winning restaurants, and a 20m swimming pool, hot tub, wood sauna and steam room, within its fully equipped fitness centre. Despite its size and grand style, Fitzpatrick Castle Hotel has a relaxed and cosy atmosphere, with a personal touch. From afternoon tea in the light and elegant lobby or a three course delicious meal in ‘The Grill at the Castle’ to an Irish coffee in the bar after dinner, guests can completely unwind once they step through the Castle doors. There is also an array of activities available for guests to enjoy in the local area including golf, water sports, castle tours, garden walks or simply a walk and some fresh sea air on nearby Killiney beach. Located just a short distance from Dalkey Dart station, Fitzpatrick Castle Hotel offers the perfect base for exploring all that Dublin city and county has to offer!

KILLINEY

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Fitzpatrick Castle Hotel

Fitzpatrick Castle Hotel Killiney Hill Road, Killiney 01-2305400 www.fitzpatrickscastle.com

Celebrating 45 years in business this May, the family-run Fitzpatrick Castle Hotel is the essence of old world charm with contemporary comforts. Located just a stone’s throw from the picturesque village of Dalkey, the hotel enjoys stunning views over and the inscription reads, ‘Last year being hard with the poor, walks about these hills and this were erected by John Mapas, June 1742.’ Other structures in the park include a Victorian pyramid, the Wishing Stone (dated 1852) and another smaller obelisk known as Boucher’s obelisk and more.

Killiney is close to Dalkey so there is a range of other activities around the area such as hiking, cycling, mountain biking, rock climbing, water sports and more. Check out www.dlrtourism.ie for hints and tips on more to do.

Killiney Golf Club (01-2851983) is a nine-hole course on the slopes of Killiney Hill, Ballinclea Road. Founded in 1903, it has spectacular elevated views of Dublin Bay and the Dublin Mountains. It has been redesigned in recent years and is a test of skill for golfers of all levels. Visitors are welcome. www.killineygolfclub.ie

Killiney in

1981

The year well-known Irish actor and Killiney native, Allen Leech, was born.

Numbers 2 153

Hil Pyramid Killiney

The time in minutes it takes to walk to Killiney Beach from Killiney DART Station.

The height in metres of Killiney Hill.

3.8

The sum in millions of euro reportedly paid by Irish singer, Enya, for her Killiney home, Manderley Castle. Best Of Ireland Series | 81

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Bray

Bray NEXT STOP

nown as the ‘Gateway to Wicklow,’ Bray is located in northern County Wicklow with a portion of the northern suburbs situated in County Dublin. A very popular seaside destination, Bray is about 20 kilometres south of Dublin city on the eastern coast and is the longest established seaside town in Ireland. Bray comes from ‘Bró,’ meaning ‘hill,’ and once you get there you’ll see why.

Bray is an excellent destination for family fun. Once off the DART, an abundance of activities are within easy reach. Bray is popular for its mile long beach, Victorian promenade and

amusement arcades. The National SEA LIFE centre offers curious visitors a chance to see marine creatures up close and is a great all-weather activity.

With the departure of winter, Bray comes alive with festivals. The season is kicked off with the St. Patrick’s Festival in March followed by the Bray Jazz Festival (www.brayjazz.com) taking place annually on the May Bank Holiday weekend offering concerts, recitals and jazz trail gigs. On Saturday 2nd and Sunday 3rd July the Groove Festival takes over the grounds of Kilruddery Estate (www. groovefestival.ie). Bray Air Display runs from 23rd July to 24th July promising aircraft, aerobatics and much more. Now in its 12th year, the Royal Air Force Red Arrows are confirmed for 2016. On the ground there will be food and craft markets and lots more to see and do (www.brayairdisplay.com). See www.bray.ie to keep up to date on all future events.

BRAY IS AN EXCELLENT DESTINATION FOR FAMILY FUN. ONCE OFF THE DART, AN ABUNDANCE OF ACTIVITIES ARE WITHIN EASY REACH

Stalls and shops nearby sell the essentials for any day by the sea; buckets and spades, balls, sunscreen, hats and ice cream. There are plenty of cafes and restaurants for a family meal or you can eat fish ‘n’ chips by the sea.

Many visitors come to Bray year-round for the scenic walks here. Apart from the bustling promenade, a quieter alternative is the nearby Bray Head where there are some lovely cliff side walks. These include climbing up to the summit of Bray Head or taking the cliff walk trail from Bray to Greystones. There are many activities on offer including water 82 | Best Of Ireland Series

sports, golf and equestrian activities in the locality.

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Bray

Don’t Miss

VIEWS & WALKS Once you get off the DART at Bray you might like to stretch the legs and take in the sea views with a stroll on the Victorian Promenade built by William Dargan, the man who brought the rail to Bray. This mile-long walkway starts from the harbour near Martello Terrace (the childhood home of James Joyce). See the colony of mute swans where the River Dargle enters the harbour here. Follow the promenade along the sea front to the base of Bray Head steeply (241 metres) from the coast.

Bray

fast facts Seaside Star

Once called ‘The Brighton of Ireland,’ Bray is the longest established seaside town in Ireland. With the extension of the Dublin and Kingstown Railway to Bray in 1854, the town grew to become the largest Irish seaside resort at the time. During the 1950s, many tourists from the UK visited Bray.

Bray Head, visible for afar, is a dominant feature at the end of the promenade. It rises steeply (241 metres) from the coast, offering the adventurer willing to take it on spectacular panoramic views of the mountains and sea. To start the climb, follow the promenade up towards the hill. Go up the steps and then follow the well worn path straight up. There is a small scramble over rocks at the top before reaching the cross at the head, which was erected in 1950 for the holy year. From here you can see Bray Head’s neighbouring mountains the Great and Little Sugar Loaf and Carrickgollogan, locally known as Kathy Gallagher. You can also see some of Bray, north-east Wicklow and Dublin Bay.

Bray Seafront

DART stations. The walk is also accessible from the Sea Front and Raheen Park in Bray. It brings walkers around the side of Bray Head above the railway line and rocky coastline. The path is well maintained and is 100 metres at its highest point. It is suitable for families with older children and there is plenty to discover along the way with marine wildlife and stunning panoramic views. If you are feeling tired at the end you can get the DART back to your starting point. www.thecliffwalk.ie

For an enjoyable walk in a fantastic coastal setting, take the route along Bray Head out to Greystones. The 6.2 kilometre route is a linear walk and starts at either Bray and Greystones

Olympic Gold

In August 2012, thousands of people flocked to the seafront in Bray to cheer the return home of Katie Taylor from the London Olympics. She is the town’s most famous sportsperson and is not just an Olympic boxing champion but has also won 12 gold medals at European level and five gold medals in the world championships to date.

In the Movies

Bray is home to Ireland’s only dedicated film studios. Ardmore Studios on Herbert Road, Bray is responsible for many internationally acclaimed films including Excalibur, Braveheart, Breakfast on Pluto and series such as The Tudors. You might stumble across the set of something big on a visit to Bray!

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Bray

HEAPS OF THINGS TO DO

In Bray

From family fun to sporty pursuits, visitors to Bray will be kept well occupied. For a fantastic day out for kids (big and small), visit the National SEA LIFE Centre (01-2860562) on the Seafront, just a two minute walk from the DART station. This aquatic zoo has over 30 displays and is home to over 1,000 marine creatures. Bray Bowl (01-2864455), located very close to the DART Station, is a facility with something for all ages. It boasts 16 ten-pin bowling lanes, a video arcade, snooker, pool and a Quasar laser tag arena. www.braybowl.ie And of course, no trip to Bray is complete without a quick go at the games and fairground rides at the amusement arcades along the seafront. Around 10 minutes’ drive from Bray (or by taking Dublin Bus 182) is the village of Enniskerry and Powerscourt Estate (01-2046000) with its spectacular house, gardens, waterfall and golfing facilities. Set at the foot of the rolling Wicklow hills, it is a great place to visit. www.powerscourt.com Also based on the estate is an attraction made especially for little ones although it is a treat at any age! At Tara’s Palace & Museum of Childhood (01-2748090) you can enter a ‘magical miniature world.’ It is the home of Ireland’s largest period doll house as well as hundreds of other fascinating exhibits like the ‘house in a bottle,’ ‘the smallest doll in the world,’ a vintage collection of doll’s houses and more. It opens seven days and there are tours available. There are admission fees but all profits are donated to Irish children’s charities. www.taraspalace.ie On the grounds of Killruddery House & Gardens, on the Southern Cross Road between Bray and Greystones, Squirrel’s Scramble (085-8627011/0864506626) uses a natural forest setting for numerous activities for all ages. It offers more than 40 different challenges on 84 | Best Of Ireland Series

Bray Harbour

four different levels (1.5–8 metres) to climb, balance, slide and crawl. It opens weekends and holidays, March to November. www.squirrelsscramble.ie In addition to walking and hiking, Bray offers plenty of other outdoor activities. Bray Adventures (0873669999/01-2760973), based on the seafront, offers stand up paddle boarding, kayaking, surfing, coastal exploring, raft building, hill walking, rock climbing and abseiling. www. brayadventures.ie Bray Sailing Club (01-2860272) runs a full programme of racing, cruising and a sea school, which provides training courses for adults and juniors alike. www.braysailingclub.ie Horse-riding is also popular in the area with options like trekking in the hills, lessons in outdoor/indoor arenas and more. Local providers include Brennanstown Riding School (012863778, www.brennanstownrs.ie) and Festina Lente (01-2720704/06, Powerscourt Estate

www.festinalente.ie). For golfers, whether novices or experienced, there are numerous fine courses in the area and wider County Wicklow. For example, Bray Golf Club (01-2763200, www.braygolfclub.com) at Quill Road is an excellent parkland course and Old Conna Golf Club (01-2866055, www.oldconna.com) at Ferndale Road is another beautiful mature parkland course, designed by Ireland’s noted golf course designer, Eddie Hackett.

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Bray’s Events, Festivals & Much More! Bray

Celebrate ...

Visit ...

Bray has several festivals and events through the year but summer is a particularly busy time. Bray Jazz Festival (www. brayjazz.com) takes place annually on the May Bank Holiday weekend offering concerts, recitals and jazz trail gigs. On Saturday 2nd and Sunday 3rd July the Groove Festival takes over the grounds of Kilruddery Estate (www.groovefestival. ie). Bray Air Display runs from 23rd July to 24th July promising aircraft, aerobatics and much more. Now in its 12th year, the Royal Air Force Red Arrows are confirmed for 2016. On the ground there will be food and craft markets and lots more to see and do (www.brayairdisplay.com). See www.bray.ie to keep up to date on all future events.

Enjoy ... Soak in some of the work of visual and performance artists working in the region with a visit to Mermaid Arts Centre (01-2724030) on Main Street. The centre opened in August 2002 and has greatly added to the artistic and cultural life of County Wicklow with its varied programme of performance including innovative dance, theatre, comedy, music and arthouse cinema. Mermaid Gallery exhibits work by artists from Wicklow and further afield. The centre runs workshops, exhibitions, Monday night art house films and more. Find the full programme on www.mermaidartscentre.ie.

Killruddery House & Gardens (01-2863405) is set on a beautiful estate and has been home to the Earls of Meath since 1618. Ki llr ud The grand house de ry H ouse was commissioned & Gardens th in the 1820s by the 10 Earl and many claim it ‘is the most significant Elizabethan Revival mansion in Ireland.’ It also has extensive formal gardens, some dating from the 17th century, and a walled garden. There are guided tours of the house available from July to September. There are tea rooms on-site. Squirrel’s Scramble is a ‘tree top adventure’ experience based on the estate too. Killruddery holds a farm market every Saturday, 10am–4pm (all year round), regular activities and many other events throughout the year from falconry to Easter egg hunts to outdoor concerts. The Totally Terrific Tomato Festival, celebrating all things tomato, takes over Kilruddery Estate on Sunday September 4th 2016. See tomatoes of all shapes, sizes and varieties in this unusual festival.

Bray in

The distance in kilometres south from Dublin to Bray.

Numbers 1958 1854 1.6 2 The year Ardmore Studios opened in Bray.

The year the Dublin and Kingstown Railway was extended as far as Bray (it opened in 1834 and was the first in Ireland).

The length in kilometres of Bray’s pebbly beach.

The peak chart position reached in the United States by the album, Hozier, the 2014 debut album of Bray-born musician, Andrew Hozier Byrne (Hozier). Best Of Ireland Series | 85

BRAY

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PUB

Bray

The Harbour Bar

The Harbour Bar 1-4 Dock Terrace, Bray 01-2862274 www.theharbourbar.ie

No trip to Bray is complete without a visit to the infamous Harbour Bar. One visit and you will understand why it was voted the ‘Best Bar in the World’ by Lonely Planet guide in 2010. With something to suit all tastes and moods, the Harbour Bar attracts an eclectic mix of locals and tourists, who are always happy to strike up a conversation. Sitting directly opposite the harbour and surrounded by the resident bevvy of swans, the beer garden is the perfect spot to watch the world go by. For a quiet pint and a chat, head to the Snug

DINING OUT

Box Burger

7 Strand Road, Bray 01-5381000 www.boxburger.ie Box Burger is the newest addition to Bray seafront and has already caused quite a stir among tourists and locals alike. Overlooking Bray promenade and just a few minutes from the DART station, it is a must try before heading out for a stroll on the prom or tackling the cliff walk. Every taste is catered for with a wide variety of burgers, including vegetarian 86 | Best Of Ireland Series

or the Backroom where you can relax in front of the fire and try one of Ireland’s best toasties. If live music is what you’re after, the Harbour Bar is more than able to accommodate.

ON E VISIT AN D YOU WI LL UN DERSTAND WHY IT WAS VOTED TH E ‘BEST BAR IN TH E WORLD’ BY LONELY PLANET There is trad music in the Main Bar every Wednesday to Sunday from 9.30pm and live music in the Lounge Thursday to Sunday from 9pm. Don’t forget to say hello to the Harbour Bar cats, Raoul and Cinders, before you leave! The Harbour Bar is only a 5 minute walk from Bray DART station and opens at 1pm on weekdays and 12 noon on weekends to regular pub closing hours.

and vegan options, all of which can be served on gluten free buns. If burgers aren’t your thing then not to worry, there is something for everyone on the menu. Try their rotisserie chicken, cooked low and slow, the hand-cut nachos with a range of different toppings or a refreshing salad. Round off your visit with one of their delicious cocktails or local craft beers, perfect with dinner or on their own in the bar area.

NEWEST ADDITION TO BRAY SEAFRONT AN D HAS ALREADY CAUSED QU ITE A STI R AMONG TOURISTS AN D LOCALS ALIKE

Dart in Numbers 4 The numbers of words in the acronym DART: Dublin Area Rapid Transit.

1984

The year of inception of the DART.

1500

The number of DC volts powering DART trains.

The number of DART stations currently operating.

1834

The year the Dublin Kingstown Railway was founded, which is the oldest part the DART system.

The length in kilometres of the DART system.

The sum in millions of journeys made on the DART in 2013.

1600

The width in millimetres of the track gauge (5 feet, 3 inches).

250000

The highest number of passengers on a single day travelling on the DART (July 4, 1996).

DUBLIN | off the DART

Beaches

MAKE AN ESCAPE

To the Best Beaches

bus. Portrane is close to Donabate and is accessible by bus.

Malahide beach

There are plenty of beaches in other areas too. Dollymount strand is located within the city limits of Dublin city heading in the Clontarf direction (DART station on Clontarf Road). This beach is beloved of surfers and kitesurfers. You can get a bus or cycling to the beach is also possible with a dedicated cycle track close by. The Burrow Beach in Sutton is a popular sandy beach (accessible from Sutton DART Station).

SEVERAL DU BLIN AN D WICKLOW NAL BEACHES GAIN ED AN INTERNATIO BLU E FLAG AWARD If you want to escape the hustle and bustle and wash away the grime of the city, there are numerous beaches you can reach by DART and other public transport like buses. Get the sea breeze in your sails and go for a walk, swim or enjoy a water-based activity at one of these beach spots. Several Dublin and Wicklow beaches gained an International Blue Flag Award for 2016, meeting strict criteria relating to water quality, safety, facilities for visitors,

beach management including litter control, environmental education and the provision of information. These are: Balcarrick beach in Donabate, Portrane Beach, the Velvet Strand in Portmarnock, Seapoint beach (near Dún Laoghaire), Killiney beach as well as Greystones beach and Brittas Bay North and South in Wicklow. Portmarnock, Seapoint, Killiney and Greystones have DART stations. You can reach Donabate via the northern commuter line (the beach is 2 kilometres from the station) or © Tiramisu Studio

There are beaches at Malahide, Sandymount, Sandycove, Howth, Bray and Dalkey Island, all within a short distance of DART stations. If a refreshing swim is all you want, the ‘Forty Foot’ is a promontory on the southern tip of Dublin Bay at Sandycove and is a popular spot for a dip in the Irish sea. Other local beaches include Rush (north of Donabate), Balbriggan’s three beaches: Blackrock Beach, Barnageeragh Beach and the Front Strand Beach, Skerries north and south beaches and more.

Howth Peninsula

See www.visitdublin.com and www.visitwicklow.ie for more detailed information on the local beaches. Best Of Ireland Series | 87

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Greystones

Greystones GETTING TO KNOW

reystones has an array of places, events, festivals, shops, cafes and restaurants, not to mention the lovely beaches, which makes it the perfect place to spend a day, a weekend or longer. It was named the world’s most liveable community at the LivCom awards in China in 2008. Greystones or ‘Na Clocha Liatha,’ was named after its stretch of grey stones between two beaches on the sea front.

Greystones is located south of the site of an ancient castle of the Barony of Rathdown. There was a small settlement here which appeared on an early 18th century map but Greystones is a more recent addition and is first mentioned in the 1795 publication, Topographia Hibernica, where it is described as a ‘noted fishing place four miles beyond Bray.’ What began as a small fishing hamlet is now a thriving town. The arrival of the railway line in 1855 contributed significantly to its growth. The north beach, which begins at the harbour, is a stony beach partly overlooked by Bray Head. On the south beach you can sink your toes into silky 88 | Best Of Ireland Series

sand and this makes it popular with swimmers and walkers. After a busy or indeed relaxing day at the beach, Greystones has something to suit every palate; you can fill hungry tummies with delicious food. To walk off a filling meal, there are a number of parks and walkways for keep-fit fanatics and strollers alike. Popular with anglers and sailors alike, Greystones has a tradition of boat and fishing competitions and events, and the Harbour Marina is a popular sheltered dock that is becoming

more and more popular nationally and internationally.

There are plenty of activities to keep the children busy. Various sports are played here but golfers are particularly spoiled for choice with a multitude of top class courses around Greystones. A number of local festivals and events take place throughout the year and community and business involvement is very strong in general. www.greystonesguide.ie

ur Greystones Harbo

DUBLIN | off the DART

Greystones

Marinas & Beaches, fast facts FISHING & WALKS Greystones Brunel’s Folly

Greystones gained a tangible link with Dublin when the railway arrived in 1855. Building this stretch of railway was so challenging that authorities consulted with famous engineer, Isambard Kingdom Brunel, on the project. The result was an impressive feat, a single rail line with several tunnels, although the cost of building and upkeep was so expensive that it was nicknamed ‘Brunel’s Folly.’

Ballykissangel Greystones was the backdrop for some scenes in the popular BBC series Ballykissangel, which ran for six series from 1996 to 2001. The Ormonde Cinema was used as a setting for the Father Ted episode ‘The Passion of St. Tibulus,’ where Ted and Dougal mount a protest at the screening of an obscene film.

Coat of Arms On the coat of arms for Greystones is the motto ‘Gníomhac idir Carraig is Crúacha’ which means ‘active between rock and mountain peaks’ referring to Bray Head in the north and the Wicklow Mountains in the West.

Greystones Harbour Marina (01-2873131) is a perfect place to go sailing from or to dock. Located at the newly developed harbour complex, it has a full range of safe, accessible berths from 6 to 30 metres for both power and sail boats. All berths are fully serviced with electricity and water Greystones Beach and the marina boasts up to date facilities including Wi-Fi. The natural beauty of head you walk near Greystones beach, your surroundings and warm welcome on to Greystones harbour where you can will make you want to return again and relax and enjoy the view. You can also again. do the walk in reverse and get a DART www.greystonesharbourmarina.ie back to your starting point. When you visit Greystones, you can swim at your leisure at one of the two great beaches; you can have your picnic and watch the world go by. There is a pebble north beach near the harbour and then the south beach, which is sandy and about half a mile long, ideal for children making sandcastles. There is also a playground beside the beach, toilet facilities and a lifeguard during the summer season. The Bray and Greystones cliff walk is a challenging 7 kilometre trek that could take about two hours but has great rewards for your efforts as you take in the stunning view of the sea and coastline. The route normally begins from the Bray Head Hotel on Bray promenade, the pathway rising to 100 metres at its highest point. Then having rounded Bray

Another picturesque, tranquil area for walkers is the Black Walk leading up to Kindlestown Park Woods which has a vast array of trees, shrubs and wildlife. It has been a recreational area for generations of people in Greystones and is a perfect opportunity to experience the woodland and the coastal. Greystones is a well known spot for shore angling. There are three main areas for shore fishing, the pier and the rocks to the east and south of the village onto sand. The north beach is a popular fishing venue and small boats can be launched from the harbour for sea fishing too. The Greystones Ridge Angling Club, founded in 1959, holds tournament events throughout the year. www.facebook.com/pages/GreystonesRidge-Angling-Club

ystones cliff walk The Bray and Gre

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Greystones

Druids Glen Resort

GET ACTIVE INDOORS AND OUTDOORS

In Greystones

GOLFERS ARE SPOI LED FOR CHOICE IN GREYSTON ES AND THE SURROUN DING AREAS WITH NUMEROUS COURSES TO CHOOSE FROM. Shoreline Leisure Greystones (012878180) was voted Ireland’s best Leisure Centre 2015 by Active Ireland at the annual ILAM White Flag Awards. The facilities here including a swimming pool, gym and a sports hall. It runs a selection of fitness classes too. The Shoreline Sports Park, Charlesland (01-2016145) boasts amenities including Astroturf pitches, an athletics track, tennis and basketball courts, an outdoor gym, a children’s playground, skate park, a rock zone area and a baseball pitch. There are fun, innovative fitness programmes for all ages. www.shorelineleisure.ie Golfers are spoiled for choice in Greystones and the surrounding areas with numerous courses to choose from. Greystones Golf Club (012874136) was founded in 1895. The par 69, 18 hole course is surrounded by stunning tranquil views of the Wicklow Mountains and Dublin Bay. www.greystonesgc.com Charlesland Golf Club (01-2878200) is a challenging course designed 90 | Best Of Ireland Series

by Ireland’s most celebrated course designer, Eddie Hackett. It has beautiful views of the Irish Sea and the Sugarloaf mountains. It also has a pro-shop, as well as club hire facilities. www.charlesland.com The luxurious Druids Glen Resort (01-2812567), a short distance to the Greystones DART Station in Newtownmountkennedy, includes two superb championship golf courses. The par 71 Druids Glen Golf Course, often called ‘the Augusta of Ireland,’ opened in 1995, hosted the Irish Open Tournament between 1996 and 1999. It is known as one of the most challenging but enjoyable golf courses in Europe, where you can retrace the footprints of world famous players. The second course, Druids Heath Golf Course opened in 2003 and has hosted the Irish PageA. The resort offers five star accommodation, a spa and a selection of dining/bar options. www.druidsglenresort.com Other golf clubs in the wider area include Delgany Golf Club (01-

2874536, www.delganygolfclub.com), Glen of the Downs Golf Club (012876240, www.glenofthedowns.com) and the nine-hole course, Kilcoole Golf Club (01-2872066, www.kilcoolegolfclub.com). Greystones Rowing & Kayaking Club, founded in 1920, is always looking for new members. The club, originally formed by fishermen, is home to the oldest boat on the east coast called the Shamrock 1. East Coast Skiff Rowing, a competition, which began in the 19th century, still takes place in Greystones. www.greystonesrowingclub.com There is also a lawn bowling club located at Burnaby Park (www. greystoneslawnbowling.org) and many other sports are played locally so visitors might catch a game at the likes of Greystones United FC’s ground, Woodlands (Greystones Cricket play home games here too), Éire Óg Greystones GAA club’s ground on the Mill Road or Greystones RFC scrumming at Dr Hickey Park on the Mill Road.

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Greystones

Greystones in Numbers 17000 1855 8 27 2012 The approximate population of Greystones.

The year Greystones Railway Station was opened.

The distance in kilometres from Greystones to Bray.

The distance in kilometres from Greystones to Dublin.

The year cricket returned to town with the formation of Greystones Cricket.

Lots of

Events & Festivals Enjoy ...

With its bright exterior bringing a burst of sunshine all year round, Summerville’s of Greystones on Trafalgar Road (01-2874228) is a cafe serving up tasty homemade fare and great coffee. Owners, Katie and Niamh, and their staff team strive to suit every taste with delicious daily specials, sandwiches, quiches, soups, salads and sweet treats (all available for take away). The breakfast and weekend breakfast and lunch menus are full of cooked and continental delights. The cafe is gluten-free and coeliac friendly. They cater for functions both in the cafe and other venues. The private garden is a great spot to kick back and relax. www.summervillesofgreystones.com The Hotspot Music Club (087-2917519) is a combination of weekend cafe bar and a late night venue, located above the Beach House Pub at Greystones harbour marina. It specialises in live music gigs, arts entertainment and private events. It is self-styled as a venue for events that are ‘a little too big or a little too unique for your average pub rock gig’ and ‘has the look of a speakeasy and the feel of a naughty house session.’ It has hosted the likes of Hozier, Kila and Mary Coughlan previously. At the free Sunday afternoon jam sessions, from 4pm, you could see anything from ukulele to jazz. Check out upcoming events at www.thehotspot.ie.

Discover ...

There are number of regular events on in Greystones. A highlight of the summer season is the Greystones Art & Photography Exhibition (087-2584144). Every Sunday, 12–5.30pm, from the June bank holiday weekend through to the last weekend in August, local artists and photographers put their vibrant work on display in the village. GRAPE is located on the South Beach walkway and passersby can peruse and also purchase work; a one of a kind souvenir of the village and Wicklow. www.facebook.com/GRAPEattheharbour For movie buffs, Greystones Film Club (087-2848684) is just the ticket. There are film screenings, of varying genres, on the first Wednesday of each month in the Happy Pear on the Main Street. www.facebook.com/pages/Greystones-FilmClub. The Happy Pear is a natural food market combined with a cafe/restaurant; it often hosts local events, as do the local bars. From charity fundraisers to sports events, there is often something going on in the town. Check www.greystonesguide. ie for up to date event listings. The Holy Rosary Church on La Touche Road, one of two Roman Catholic churches in the Greystones parish, dates back to the early 20th century and one of its striking features are two stained glass windows by acclaimed stained glass artist and noted painter, Evie Hone (1894–1955). One of the intricate and colourful windows represents the Good Shepherd and the other shows Our Lady of the Rosary. They are situated on the right and left aisles of the church and the work was carried out in 1948. www.greystonesparish.ie Best Of Ireland Series | 91

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Greystones

Inbetweeners... Kilbarrack (‘Cill Bharróg’ or the Church of St. Berach or of young Barra) faces North Bull Island across a stretch of water known as ‘Raheny Lake’ or ‘Crab Water.’ It is an old district and its name can be found on maps and sea charts going back several hundred years. Kilbarrack boasts two main shopping complexes, a selection of shops, pubs and other local amenities. Famous Irish author and Booker Prize winner, Roddy Doyle, was once a teacher at Greendale Community School in the town and it is thought that Barrytown, the fictional setting used in some of his best-known works, is an affectionate portrait of Kilbarrack.

Dublin & Wicklow

fast facts What’s in a name?

Founded as a Viking settlement in 988 AD, the Kingdom of Dublin grew following the Norman invasion of Ireland and became its main city. It expanded substantially from the 17th century and currently has an urban area population of over 1.27 million. It is thought that the name Dublin comes from the old Irish name ‘Dubhlinn’ meaning ‘black pool.’ In Old Norse, it would have been known as ‘Dyflin’ after an early Christian settlement had named it so. In modern Irish, the city is known as Baile Átha Cliath, which translates as ‘town of the hurdled ford.’ Áth Cliath is a place name referring to a fording point of the River Liffey and Baile Átha Cliath was seemingly the name of an early 92 | Best Of Ireland Series

Christian monastery based in modern day Aungier Street. Dublin’s motto is ‘Obedientia Civium Urbis Felicitas’ meaning ‘the obedience of the citizens makes a happy city.’ The name Wicklow derives from the Old Norse name ‘Víkingalág’ or ‘Wykynlo.’ It is thought to mean ‘the Vikings’ meadow’ or ‘Viking’s meadow.’ Wicklow’s Irish name, ‘Cill Mhantáin’ means ‘church of the toothless one.’ Lore has it that Saint Patrick and followers tried to land on Travailahawk beach and hostile locals attacked them. One of Patrick’s group lost his front teeth and was dubbed ‘Manntach.’ Legend has it that he later returned to found a church there. Wicklow’s motto is ‘Free spirits.’

RETAIL

AMOC Jewellery

AMOC Jewellery Church Road, Greystones 01-2871515 www.amoc.ie

At this little gem in Greystones, Mette O’Connor and her team at AMOC are passionate about creating handcrafted jewellery. Mette is a Danish goldsmith living in Ireland, her pieces are designed and made in her open plan workshop in Greystones, Co. Wicklow combining age-old Scandinavian techniques with Irish contemporary design. She specialises in unique engagement rings, wedding bands, neckpieces, pendants, bracelets, earrings, cufflinks, brooches and more. AMOC has the ready-to-wear collections on display and commissioned, bespoke pieces are made here to order. They also offer a remelt and design service, making new pieces from your own gold or platinum and existing stones. Mette and AMOC’s commitment to aesthetics, traditional skills and attention to detail are obvious in her unique designs. Her work combines a unique sense of flowing elegance with impeccable craftsmanship. Mette finds an unlimited inspiration in the beauty of natural gems and metals and always aspires to create truly unique pieces. She is a trained gemologist and diamond grader and her passion for her profession is evident in all her years of designing and creating the highest quality jewellery. Whether treating yourself or buying for that special someone, the one-of-akind designs at AMOC Jewellery make ideal gifts that will be treasured for years to come. Visit www.amoc.ie for inspiration and online store. For more information email mette@amoc.ie

DUBLIN | off the DART

Dublin Bay

DUBLIN BAY: UNESCO BIOSPHERE

Dublin Bay

Dublin Bay has been awarded a Biosphere designation by UNESCO in recognition of its unique ecological and cultural status making it only the second such designation in Ireland. The designation previously related to Bull Island only but the awarding of Biosphere status to all of Dublin Bay means it now extends to an area of around 300 kilometres. Key areas in the Dublin Bay Biosphere include North Bull Island, Howth Head, Killiney Hill, the Tolka and Baldoyle Estuaries, Booterstown Marsh, Dalkey Island and Ireland’s Eye.There is a huge diversity of mammals, birds, fish, insects and plants living and breeding on the bay’s coastal habitats and over 300 plant species have been recorded on North Bull Island alone. The award coincided with the public launch of the new Dublin Bay Biosphere Partnership, which will protect and promote the bay. It has been established by Dublin City Council, Dublin Port Company, Dún Laoghaire-Rathdown County Council, Fingal County Council and the Department of Arts, Heritage and the Gaeltacht. It is the first time that these organisations have formed an alliance to promote the conservation and cultural heritage of Dublin Bay. UNESCO’s new designation will greatly facilitate the ability of Dublin Bay Biosphere Partnership to pursue a sustainable green economic model for

Ireland’s Eye

the bay. The strategy for the biosphere is based on the themes of conservation, research and education, tourism and recreation and sustainable business. Ireland’s only other UNESCO Reserve is in Killarney National Park. For more information see www.dublinbaybiosphere.ie, www.dublincity.ie/dublinbaybiosphere and #LoveDublinBay on social media like Twitter.

DU BLIN CERTAI NLY IS THE CAPITAL WITH A CAPTIVATING COAST

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Useful Information

Useful Information TOURISM: Visit Dublin Visitor Centre 25 Suffolk Street, Dublin 2 1850–230333 Dublin Discover Ireland Centre 14 Upper O’Connell Street, Dublin 1 1850–230330 There are offices in other areas too. For a full list (and other visitor information), see www.discoverireland.ie. Another very useful website is: www.visitdublin.com. EMERGENCY: General Emergency Services (fire, ambulance etc) 999 Pearse Street Garda Station, 1-6 Pearse Street, Dublin 2 01-6669000 Dún Laoghaire Garda Station, 34/35, Corrig Avenue, Dún Laoghaire 01-6665000 See www.garda.ie for a full list of Garda Stations in Dublin. 94 | Best Of Ireland Series

St. James’s Hospital, James’s Street, Dublin 8 01-4103000 Mater Misericordiae University Hospital, Eccles Street, Dublin 7 01-8032000 Out of Hours GP services Dublin North City & County: D-Doc, 1850–224477 Dublin 2, 6, 8, 10, 12, 20, 22 & Lucan: Dub Doc, 01-6636869] For more information on hospitals and General Practitioners in Dublin, see www.hse.ie. TRANSPORT: DART You can download the official Iarnród Éireann Irish Rail App so that you can check timetables and real time running information. See www. irishrail.ie for timetables and other information. You can buy a Leap Card to get access to the cheapest fares. More details on www.leapcard. ie. All adult and child tickets are available from ticket machines at the stations. Children under the age of four go free.

Luas Dublin’s light rail system has two lines (Red & Green) covering much of the city and suburbs. Tickets available at stops. For more information, see www.luas.ie. Intercity Rail Connolly Station Amiens Street, Dublin 1 01-7032358/01-7032359 Heuston Station Saint John’s Road West, Dublin 8 01-7032132 Timetables also on: www.irishrail.ie. Busáras (Central Bus Station) Store Street, Dublin 1 01- 8366111 Timetables also on: www.buseireann.ie. OTHER: General Post Office O’Connell Street Lower, Dublin 1 01-7057000 See www.anpost.ie for a full list of post offices/services in Dublin.

Booterstown • Blackrock • Seapoint • Salthill & Monkstown • Dún Laoghaire

Sandycove & Glasthule • Glenageary • Dalkey • Killiney • Shankill

Make The Most Of Your Time

off the DART

Discover Dún Laoghaire & Beyond... Visit an area of Dublin Bay that has just been designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. You will never be too far from the Dún Laoghaire-Rathdown area while on the Dart line. Follow the tracks southbound from Booterstown to Shankill and you will see just how big the area is, plus it is only 15-20 minutes away from Dublin City. The area also boasts a great choice of cafes, bars, restaurants, accommodation options from large luxury hotels to cosy country guesthouses, not to mention some of the best shopping malls around!

Experience

Adrenaline

facebook.com/DLRTourism

Come visit us and you will experience the total tourism package that truly has something for every taste. For families to couples of all ages, extreme sports enthusiasts to more relaxed travellers. We can arrange bicycle hire, day trips, boat cruises around Dublin Bay, and offer unique local gifts and souvenirs. Visit our new website at www.dlrtourism.ie for tips and ideas on how to make the most of your time.

Family

www.dlrtourism.ie

Destination @DLRTourism