! ! ! A! CROSS'CULTURAL! RECTANGULE! OF! TEXTILE:! AN! EDUCATIONAL! APPROACH!TO!SUSTAINABLE!FASHION!DESIGN!
! ! ! Departing*from*the*reflection*about*fashionable*Africanisms,*this*paper*aims*to*present*and*discuss*an*on7 going* study* focused* on* a* cross7cultural* co7learning* immersion* program* in* sustainable* fashion* design,* currently*being*developed*with*first*year*fashion*students*of*the*Lisbon*Faculty*of*Architecture,*and*based* upon* the* conceptual* developments* done* by* the* author* about* the* Mozambican* capulana.* This* study* proposes* a* fashion7able* approach* program* that* focuses* on* a* deeper* dialogue* between* students* and* immigrant* communities* in* Lisbon.* It* is* also* intended* to* boost* fashion7able* practices* by* exploring* the* rectangular*shape*of*a*fabric,*which*is*at*the*base*of*African*and*Indian*outfits.* In*this*process*a*rectangular*fabric*left*uncut*is*the*starting*point*of*a*groovy*conceptual,*and*fashion7able* approach*that*merges*fabric,*form*and*body.*This*praxis*will*help*students*explore*notions*of*tradition*and* contemporaneity,*while*in*parallel*working*on*identity*processes*through*fashion.*At*the*same*time,*these* moments* allow* to* free* students* from* the* ‘conventions’* on* western* clothing* and* to* explore* individual* creativity* while* reformulating* body* boundaries.* Indeed,* the* proposed* horizontal* dialogues* and* the* intercultural* approach* in* dealing* with* different* cultural* groups* may* help* students* to* experience* another* view*on*European*ways*of*fashion.* * Key!words:!Capulana,!Sustainable!fashion!design,!Fashion4able,!Co4learning,!Immigrant!Communities!! !
1. Introduction!! I* want* to* be* honest* about* the* world* that* we* live* in,* and* sometimes* my* political* persuasions* come* through*in*my*work.*Fashion*can*be*really*racist,*looking*at*the*clothes*of*other*cultures*as*costumes.* That’s*mundane*and*it’s*old*hat.*Let’s*break*down*some*barriers.*(McQueen,2004*)* From! history,! global! fashion! and! textile! networks! delineated! and! stimulated! creativity,! originating! global! dialogues!through!styles.!”The!earliest!cross–cultural!influences!on!Western!fashion!drew!their!aspiration! from! the! East.! Chintz,! calico! and! khaki! are! all! Indian! origin”(Loughran,2009:245),! leaving! an! enduring! imprint!on!European!clothing.! During!the!last!century,!Africa!and!the!Orient!–!especially!India!and!China!4!has!been!the!core!for!several! inspirations!on!the!Western!fashion! economy.!Dialectically,!this!relational!process!originates!the!‘idea’!of! the! other! and! stimulates! cultural! appropriations! and! identity! processes! over! commodities.! Furthermore,! Maynard!argues!that!members!of!different!cultures!wear!a!mix!of!both!locally!and!globally!available!dress! as!a!consequence!of!what!these!cultures!have!in!common,!i.e.!their!self4awareness!and!self4consciousness.! (Maynard,!in!Barnard,!2012:!421).! The! Western! fashion! aesthetics! “(…)! poaches! from! other! systems! and! cannibalizes! diverse! influences! in! reconstructing!new!techniques!of!dress!and!decoration”!(Craick,!1994:!36).!In!this!process,!the!exotic!and! ethnic!drive!our!accomplishments!taken!from!non4Western!culture!fashions.!! This! paper! is! part! of! a! PhD! project,! which! studies! a! socio4cultural! approach! on! identity,! traditions! and! fashion4able!challenges!of!the!African!capulana!fabric!into!the!21st!century!fashion!styles.!In!parallel,!it!aims! to!suggest!a!more!balanced!and!equal! view!when!concerning!cross4cultural!fashion!design.!A! Sustainable!
fashion!design!approach!is!seen!here!as!a!vehicle!for!a!more!integral!and!integrative!fashion!system!that! cherishes!the!meaning!of!‘otherness’!fashions.!!Beyond!ethnic!or!exotic!achievement!we!do!intend!to!open! a!communicative!and!creative!bridge!between!fashion!students!of!the!Lisbon!Faculty!of!Architecture!(FA)! and! immigrant! communities! locally! established! in! Lisbon,! Portugal.! ! The! interwoven! concepts! of! the! Mozambican!fabric,!the!capulana,!are!the!driving!forces!of!the!implemented!laboratories,!where!a!“hands4 on!culture”!fashion!program!is!developed!with!a!group!of!fashion!degree!students.! !
2. Capulana!from!Mozambique!a!cross'!cultural!fabric! ! With*the*Mozambican*word*Capulana,!4!kanga!in!Tanzanya,!leso!in!Mombassa,!pagne!in!Quenya,!lamba*in! Madagascar! 4! all! rectangular! shaped! cotton! fabric! is! meant! –! usually! 1,7! x! 1m! –! wide! enough! to! cover! a! woman.! Industrially! printed,! these! fabrics! are! characterized! by! a! central! design! or! theme,! framing! a! repeated!motif,!which!play!an!intimate!role!within!African!societies!(especially!after!slave!abolition4!18974! mainly! on! the! East! regions)! and! are! “product! of! centuries! –! old! exchanges! across! the! Indian! Ocean”(Rovive,2006!:!1).!! Europe! 4! especially! Portugal! and! the! Netherlands! 4! and! India! are! the! main! protagonists! of! the! fabric! production!and!commerce.!“Printed!textiles!exported!to!Africa!during!19th!and!20th!centuries!have!been!of! two!types:!wax!prints!(wax!batiks)!and!non4wax!prints!(fancy!or!roller!prints)“!(Steiner,1985!:93).!To!satisfy! the! African! customer’s! aesthetics! many! inspirational! sources! have! been! developed:! Indian! cottons,! Javanese! Batiks,! European! prints.! Indian! cottons! inspiration! (…)! to! natural! forms! and! political! figures”! (idem)! this! fabric! interacts! both! as! a! visual! statement! and! as! an! embodied! functional! tool,! to! boost! dialogues!between!tradition!and!contemporaneity!on!social,!religious,!political!and!gender!spheres!in!East! Africa!(See:!!Beck,!2001;!Yahya4Othman,!1997;Steiner!1997;!Hamid!,1996)! Women!assign!to!those!garments!what!is!perceived!to!be!their!‘femininess’”(Yahya4Othman,1997!:135)!but! capulana!can!also!be!worn!by!men!(Hamid,1996:104).! From! transcultural! Ocean! trades! capulana! became! a! cosmopolitan! item! and! globally! involved! multiple! appropriations,!both!in!terms!of!behaviors,!rituals!and!creativity.!Since!2002,!and!under!the!mood!‘Afrique* c’est* chique’,! these! fabrics! are! pleasing! and! fashionable! items! to! introduce! on! runways! western! fashion.! The! richness! of! patterns! inspires! several! designers! to! develop! ethnical! influences! on! Western! fashion,! mostly!surfacing!the!richness!of!the!African!culture.!!
3. Western!Fashionable!Africanism!! The!deep!relations!with!Africa!aesthetics!originate!creative!fashionable!results!across!the!last!century.!!The! charm!of!ethnic*apogee!started!at!the!1931!International!Colonial!Exhibition!including!“couturier!clothing! from!designers!such!as!Worth,!Lanvin!and!Callot!Soeurs”!(Loughran,!2009:247)!and!the!“colonial!modern! look! “(ibidem:249)! was! considered! one! of! the! highest! desirable! apparel.! In! the! 70’s,! the! movement! of! “flower!power”!and!the!freedom!of!mainly!colonial!regimes!give!an!impulse!to!the!appropriation!of!Afghan! jackets,! Indian! shirts! and! African! turbans;! and! also! to! the! problematic! “Hottentot! Venus”! of! Jean! Paul! Gaultier! at! the! spring4summer! collection! in! 2005! (Fiss,! 2009).! Since! 2002! it! is! trendy! to! ‘glam’! Africa! aesthetics! and! “Africa! seems! to! be! the! muse* du* jour! for! a! wide! array! of! designers,! including! Jean! Paul! Gaultier,! Donna! Karan,! Kenzo! and! Dolce! &Gabbana”(Rovine,! 2009:135).! From! both! sides! a! web! of! appropriations!highlights!new!cosmopolitanisms.!Clothing!and!printing!promotes!actively!a!new!grammar! of! styling.! However,! non4western! fashions! are! frequently! seen! as! costumes! and! not! fashion! (Fiss,2009;! Craik,1994;! Allman,2004).! Indeed,! the! fashionable! attitude! from! non4Western! cultures! is! frequently! considered!as!”domestication!“(Prestholdt,!2008).!! This! Western! glaze! and! interpretation! about! non4Western! fashions! (Rovine! in! Allman2004:! 187),! reflects! narratives! that! comprise! an! Imperial! aesthetics,! which! is! translated! into! ! “‘repressive’! power! of! western! fashion!as!commodity!“(Hendrickson,!1996:3).!! !
3.1!!!!The!fashionable!exotic!“otherness”!crisis! !
Several!authors!have!studied!and!discussed!the!globalization!of!fashion!in!relation!to!local!culture!(Gale!&! Kaur,!2002;!Maynard,!2004;!Teunissen,!2005).!Whereas!frequently,!tradition!and!culture!are!appropriated! and! perverted! in! fashionable! trends,! as! Rovine! points! out! (Allman,! 2004:187)! “to! allude! the! fantasy! and! evoke! a! romanticized! of! an! eternal! picturesque! Africa”! and! to! offer! an! answer! to! the! western! society! “object!ephemeral!necessity!”(Erner,!2004:!179).!!As!a!result,!over!decades!of!western!fashion,!a!‘gloss’!of! African!exoticism!was!introduced!in!many!designs!and!pattern!designs.!! When! Western! designers! uses! fashionable! inspirations! concerning! the! so! called! ‘traditional! non4western! cultures’,! their! goal! is! not! so! much! to! respect! those! other! cultural! traditions! but! rather! to! ‘glam! it’! to! develop! new! desirable! fashion! trends.! Consequently! this! “puzzling! form! of! cultures”! (Welsch,! 1999:194)! embodies!identities!can!“represents!the!amplitude!of!the!anthropological!crisis”(Erner,!2004:195).!! In! essence! the! conceptualization! and! designing! of! Western! fashion,! mirrors! a! society! described! by! Apaddurai!as!“the!results!of!the!cross!–fertilization!between!wide4ranging!cultures!that!develop!a!complex! matrix! of! overlapping! and! disjunctive! global! cultural! flows”! ! (1996:! 36437).! Fashionable! practices! are! developed! under! issues! about! globalization,! domestication! (Presttholdt,! 2008:88),! “homogenizing! heterogeneity”(Paulicelli! and! Clark,! 2009:3)! and! discourses! of! western! cultural! imperialism.! Fashionable,! the! ephemeral! ‘idea’! of! non4western! fashions! is! communicated! as! “exoticism! that! feeds! the! baroque! of! customs! and! the! sensuality! of! the! imaginary”! (Loughran,! 2009).! Nowadays,! fast! fashion! and! multiple! choices! should! develop! a! creative! costumer! although! we! have! all! similar! looks.! “A! uniformity! that! comes! from!the!owner!own!strategies!of!imitation”!(Erner,!2004:188).!! Thus,! the! on4going! project,! based! upon! Mozambique! capulana,! aim! to! introduce! new! epistemic! and! methodological! approaches! that! will! contribute! to! a! more! horizontal! reading! of! African! fashions.! New! perspectives! facing! 21th! fashion! system! should! interface! deeper! values! that! work! cognitive! levels! (see! Metha,! 2003;! Flectcher,! 2009;! Gaimster,! 2011,! Lave! and! Wenger,1991;! Zhao! and! Kuh,2004))! and! identity! processes!(see!Flectcher,!2009;!Gaimster,!2011).!We!build,!in!this!approach,!from!current!studies!in!visual! culture!are!being!characterized!by!being!‘reflexive’!in!nature.!They!are!not!mere!description!and!analysis!of! the!situation,!but!they!take!position!in!a!strategic!and!political!way.!!!
4. An!educational!approach!! ! How*can*we*construct*alternative*perspectives*about*‘world*history’*knowledge*production?** (Meneses,!2007).! ! Regarding!these!reflections!about!fashionable!Africanisms,!we!observed!that!most!fashion!students!arrive! at!the!university!with!a!gaudy!idea!about!fashion.!Mainly,!have!a!vague!relation! with!non4western!cultures! and! their! fashion! styles.! Their! cognitive! world! is! ‘colonized’! by! visual! media! of! their! contemporary! life.! Usually! students! conceive! non4western! fashion! as! embroidered! luxury,! ethnic! glamour,! fantasy! and! decorative!exoticism,!a!set!of!ideas!that!has!been!somehow!crystallized!by!the!‘exotic’!femininity!on!several! runway! fashion! shows! or! fashion! magazines.! However! education! should! have! the! task! “to! construct! transactional! and! interactional! sites! that! facilitate! dialogues! across! all! the! constituencies! concerned! with! the!vicissitudes!of!visual!meaning!and!cultural!formations!in!the!emerging!information!society.”!(Sandywell! &!Heywood,!2012:!7).!! These!article!focuses!on!an!overview!of!a!research!project!developed!with!students,!facing!the!“tradition”! and!“modernity”!visuals!on!the!capulana!fabric!to!regenerate!a!refreshed!design!approach!about!the!“idea”! of! the! Otherness! in! the! Western! fashion! system! (Allman,! 2004;! Loughran,! 2009;! Rovine,! 2006).! In! the! course!of!time!many!visual!research!methods!in!fashion!have!been!developed,!mainly!meant!as!source!of! inspiration.!The!recent!book!of!Gaimster!(2011),!named!‘Visual!research!methods!in!fashion’,!is!an!example! of!such!an!approach.!However,!our!study!has!a!different!focus,!addressing!the!dialogue!between!fashion! students! and! immigrant! communities! (see! figure! 2)! in! order! to! integrate! tradition! and! contemporaneity,! and! to! build! bridges! between! communities! of! fashion.! That! asks! for! another! method! of! study,! one! that!
proposes!balance!to!those!more!fundamental!aims.!Therefore,!we!choose!for!a!multi4method!approach!of! co4creation!that!is!partly!anthropological!in!nature!and!at!the!same!time!asks!for!‘co4!designing!future’.! The!program!allows!fashion!students!to!experience!a!fashion!approach!based!on!a!horizontal!dialogue!that! dialectically!uses!the!“umbrellas”!of!cross!culture1,!sustainable!fashion!design,!co4learning!and!communities! of! practice! (see! Figure! 3).! A! cultural! immersion! on! clothing! is! sustained! together! with! a! co4learning! program,!which!comprises!varied!project!phases!and!the!capulana!fashion!concept!proposed!by!the!author:! visual! communication;! versatility! on! a! one4size! design;! memory! and! heritage! documents;! symbolic! commodity;!embodied!functional!tool.! In! fact,! “(…)! we! can! only! construct! meaning! through! a! dialogue! with! the! ‘other’”! (Hall,! 1997:235).! Furthermore,! this! dialogue! starts! when! we,! Westerners,! consider! fashion! as! a! system! with! multifaceted! views.! Methodologically!the!students!are!invited,!in!the!first!phase,!to!experience!fashion!anthropology!through! studying! the! cultural! of! Lisbon,! mainly! the! African! and! Indian! communities, 2 !with! a! focus! on! the! surrounding! areas! of! Rossio! and! the! city’s! peripheries.! Qualitative! research! is! developed! through! data! collection,!which!comprises!historical!research!(web!and!traditional!research!tools),!interviews,!traditional! fabric!analysis,!photography!and!video!records.! Involving! students! with! the! community! enables! the! opening! of! a! cosmopolitan! touch! screen,! integrating! the!dialogue!of!“new”!clothing!experiences!that!permeates!cultural!dress!codes!across!the!centuries.!! The! co4learning! experience! of! participants! brings! insights! that! go! far! beyond! the! scope! of! the! traditional! fashion!learning!and!permeates!a!clothing!experience!that,!leaving!the!academy’s!boundaries,!moves!the! fashion! design! students! to! the! streets! of! Lisbon.! This! methodology! of! education! is! supported! by! some! sustainable! key! concepts! based! on! the! work! with! communities! of! practice! (see! Figure! 1).! Fletcher! (2008:! 127),! emphasizes! that! ! “(…)! key! sustainable! values! include:! community,! where! a! new! relationship! is! forested!between!designer,!producer!and!consumer!(…).”!! The!results!open!a!debate!over!notions!of!“Africaness”!(Spring,!2005:73)!and!‘Indianess’!in!the!immigration! context,! and! an! understanding! of! the! traditional! dress! code! and! new! appropriations! that! are! “crucial! to! assertions!of!identity!and!reformations!of!identity”!(Clark,!1993:36).! !
! Figure!1:!illustrative!figure!about!the!axis!of!the!co4learning!educational!process.!!
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!As!concepts!that!bind!the!various!classes!of!the!1 !year!of!the!FA’s!Fashion!Design!undergraduate!program.!
2!
Most! of! the! Indians! from! Lisbon! emigrated! from! Mozambique,! because! of! transition! processes! originated! by! the! Most! of! the! Indians! from! Lisbon! emigrated! from! Mozambique,! because! of! transition! processes! originated! by! the! ‘unplace’!dichotomy.! 2!
In!the!second!phase!the!students!apply!the!“hands4on”!process!to!figure!out!the!capulana!concepts.!This! phase!of!the!program!includes!several!laboratory!studies,!titled!‘What!is!your!pattern!ID’,!‘The!color!of!your! emotion’,! ‘Clothing! as! a! ritual’,! ‘Clothing! as! (de)form’! and! ‘D4S:! Hands4on! culture’.! Through! practice,! and! cultural! embodiment! students! are! able! to! work! a! rectangular! shaped! fabric! in! multiple! experiments! with! the! purpose! of! finding! a! ‘new’! space! between! the! textile! and! the! body.! This! process! challenges! conventional! tenets! of! European! fashion! (Craik,! 1994:! 41)! and! also! allows! students! to! improve! and! experiment!fashion!in!different!ways!(Fletcher,!2008:192),!by!facing!Fashion!as!fashions,!and!Modernity!as! modernities.!! ! !
! Figure!2:!Fashion!student’s!first!contact!with!the!capulana!from!Mozambique!and!other!African!and!Indian!textiles.! !
This!program!aims!to!integrate!the!multiple!realities!of!non4western!culture!clothing!and!propose!them!as! fashion! to! work! out! a! sustainable! East4West! synthesis! and! renegotiate* multiple* identities! (Green,! 2009)! upgraded!to!the!21st!century.!! The! act! of! interlacing! such! different! aspects! presents! a! ‘new’! fashion! praxis,! based! on! sustainability,! that! starts! to! be! assimilated! by! first! year! fashion! students.! It! re4draws! the! boundaries! of! fashion! away! from! “western!ideals!of!the!body,!body4space!relations,!and!conventions!of!clothing”!(Craik,!1994:!41)!by!looking! for!a!movement!of!styles!and!the!reshaping!of!meanings!(Rovine,!2009).!! This!exercise!helps!the!new!generation!of!creators!to!free!themselves!from!the!fit!of!western!cut!and!from! the! western! prejudices! on! fashion! and! body! trends.! Finally,! this! study! emphasizes! the! importance! of! a! more!considerate!fashion!dialogue!between!nations,!basing!its!roots!on!the!educational!system.!
5. Conclusion! Departing! from! the! Meneses! sentence! ““How! can! we! construct! alternative! perspectives! about! ‘world! history’!knowledge!production?”!This!study!considered!a!reflection!about!fashionable!Africanisms!and!the! African! inspiration! on! western! fashion! across! the! last! century,! to! look! for! another! (or! alternative)! appropriation! about! African! fashions.! As! a! starting! point,! this! study! proposed! ‘another’! view! on! African! fashions! and! showed! an! applied! fashion4able! approach! to! develop! a! cross4cultural! educational! program! with! first4year! fashion! students! from! FA.! This! program! aimed! to! overlap! the! common! ‘cultural! make4up’!
fashion! system! approach! to! develop! fashion4able! synergies! able! to! increase! potential! to! the! capulana! concepts,! develop! dialogue! between! students! and! the! African! immigrant! community! in! Lisbon! and! show! the!fashion!proposals!that!comes!out!from!several!laboratories.!From!visual!culture!to!conceptual!answers,! the! students! figured! out! form! and! proposed! experimental! and! empirical! interdisciplinary! fashion! praxis! with!a!rectangular!shaped!fabric.!Video,!performance,!photography!were!support!disciplines!to!achieve!the! results.! Trough! this! method! we! figured! out! identity! processes! while! working! on! the! “otherness”! fashion! concepts.!!The!process!helped!students!to!better!understand!themselves!as!a!creative!persona*,!to!activate! participation! with! immigrant! communities! and! to! enable! a! deeper! dialogue! with! the! ‘otherness’! while! highlighting!success!on!learning!skills!and!fashion!design!practices.!
Acknowledgments!! For! the! support! of! this! research,! I! thank! the! FCT! (Foundation! of! Science! and! technology),! Lisbon.! My! heartfelt! thanks! to! Paula! Meneses! (my! co4supervisor)! for! her! critical! readings! of! all! writing! steps! of! this! paper.! Final! draft! was! also! read! by! Henry! Christiaans! (my! supervisor),! Inês! Simões! and! Julia! Porto.! I! especially! appreciate! the! time! they! took! from! their! own! work! to! contribute! a! great! deal! to! the! improvement!of!mine.!
References!! Alexander! McQueen,! Savage* Beauty! (on! line),! http://blog.metmuseum.org/alexandermcqueen/tag/voss!(Accessed!4!March,!2012)!
available!
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