3º ponto de situação doutoramento

Mozambique’s Capulanas in a D4S design perspec9ve: iden9ty, tradi9on and fashion-­‐able challenges in the XXI century.

JUIN 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report

Disciplinary intersecDons : HISTORY+ ETNOGRAPHY + FASHION DESIGN+ SUSTAINABILITY Aims

>> To search for design methodologies to find fashion praxis (fashion-­‐able), which enable a

refined work in the field of construcDon of idenDty, culture and sustainability.

>>To introduce new epistemic and methodological design approaches that will contribute to a deeper reading about the Mozambican fabric, based on an historical and design perspecDve.

>>To open up a debate about the conceptual potenDality of the fabric while asking for an alternaDve perspecDve, which not only dialogues Western fashions but invites for a deeper work and analysis about fashion-­‐able pracDces with this fabric, to increase educaDon and design that is thought/readable from the African point of view and is able to include both idenDty and sustainability.

JUIN 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report

M A L A W

Lake Bangweulu

Mueda

a

Capulana TradiDon /Capulana Modernity

a lo ess M

CABO DELGADO

Quissanga

Nyasa

Ancuabe

Pemba

Lu a

N I A S S A

onha Lig

Z

Chinde

SOFALA

Manica

Chimoio Dondo MANICA Beira

BOTSWANA po

O

GAZA

Massingir

Homoine Panda

e u

MOZAMBIQUE

Massinga Morrumbene

Inhambane

Inharrime Guija Chibito Ma Quissico Magude X a n ja c a z M INDIAN ac i- X e ia Manhiça ai Moamba

SOUTH AFRICA

SWAZILAND

The boundaries and names shown and the designations used on this map do not imply official endorsement or acceptance by the United Nations.

Provincial capital Town, village Airport

MAPUTO

International boundary

n e Bela Vista

a

Mbabane

National capital

OCEAN

Maputo

Bo

Namaacha

The tailors

Ponta São Sebastião Ponta da Barra Falsa

gane an Ch

o op mp Li

po

Ilha do Bazaruto Ilha Benguérua

Vilanculos

INHAMBANE

Mapai

im

Inhassôro

Mabote

Chicualacuala

No. 3706 Rev. 5 UNITED NATIONS 2004

n

iq

Chibabava Nova Mambone

Pretoria

a

b

uzi

Save

s ant lif

h

Sussundenga

Espungabera

L

C

M o z a m

Z I MBABW E

B

Lake Kariba

Palma Mocimboa da Praia

Montepuez IN D IA N Namuno Lilongwe OCEAN Namapa o i Maúa Vila Gamito Lúr Memba Mandimba Mecubúri Nacala Cuamba Vila Coutinho Lake Ribáuè N A M P U L A Monapo Furancungo Malombe Fíngoè Mossuril T E T E Meconta Moçambique Nampula Lago de Cahora Bassa Lake Vila Dam Murrupula Chilwa Zumbo Cahora Bassa Junqueiro Mogincual Nametil Namarrói Magué Erego Moatize Gile Angoche Tete Lugela Milange L am Ilha Angoche icu Z A MB ÉZ I A b ez ng e o Changara Moma Chemba Morrumbala Pebane Guro Namacurra Vila da Maganja Harare Vila Fontes Mopeia Quelimane Velha l Marromeu Inhaminga ne wa ng

I

zi mbe Za

Cabo Delgado

a vum Ru

Lake

ZAMBIA

Lusaka

T A NZ AN IA

Rovu m Licoma Is. Mecula (MALAWI) enda g Metangula Lu Chiconono Marrupa Lichinga

Lake Chifungwe

DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF THE CONGO

UNITED REPUBLIC OF

alawi ake M

MOZAMBIQUE

0 0

50 100 150 200 km 50

100

150 mi

Provincial boundary Main road Railroad

Department of Peacekeeping Operations Cartographic Section

Secondhand clothing

The stylists

Area of the field-­‐study Maputo

3. PROBLEM CONTEXTUALIZATION

TRADITION Clothing as a cultural project NATION BUILDING GAP! Young generaDon’s contest Fashionable capulana Desire to be modern Western clothing

FRAGILE PRODUCTION CHAINS LACK of educaDon in Fashion and clothing producDon Most policy-­‐makers and civil society pracDDoners do NOT RECOGNIZE tailor’s acDve role in parDcipaDng in urban creaDvity and African fashion Financial support is based on informal mechanisms precariousness of the social system and uncertainty about the future

SECONDHAND CLOTHING dual tensions: undermines tradiDon/ Raises representaDon

SEWED AND DESIGNED

BY THE TAILOR

?

DESIGNED BY THE STYLIST SEWED BY THE TAILOR

What’s in the border ?

Capulana + quimão

Fashionable capulana

TRADITION?

MODERNITY ?

INFORMAL SECTOR Poor Working condiDons no Water/no Electricity ApprenDce/Master work by custom order

MAY BE lower access to a ‘formal’ system of soi loan to help them to develop bejer working, or even a schooling/formal system to empower

knowledge and technical skills of this master tailors.

migraBon Africa/ Europe

HOPE SCHOOLING JOB CONDITIONS

How can contemporary fashion producDon based in capulana tradiDon contribute to reinforce idenDty and cultural sustainability?

4. Research Project Diagram

OVERVIEW OF THE RESEARCH STAGES

D4S: the pillars for sustainability PEOPLE

PLANET

PROFIT

Eco –design –Triple “P” “triple bojom line” by John Elkington 1997

Design for Sustainability by Crul and Diehl, 2004.

Design for Sustainability

by Ehrenfeld, 2008

CAPULANA

A” golden” rectangle about 1,70/1.10 m

Cultural concepts vs sustainability Slow-­‐fashion Co-­‐design AffecDvity

4.RESEARCH STRUCTURE

LAB I – 1st focus group: the African Immigrant Tailors

EPAT: EDUCATIONAL PLATFORM FOR AFRICAN TAILORS

JUIN 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report

The quesDon

How can tailoring be re-­‐appropriated as “formal” educaDon system, in order to upgrade African tailors knowledge and skills while at the same Dme meeDng the demands of bejer working condiDons and affirming idenDty in global contexts today?

JULY 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report

5.METHODOLOGY I Proceedings ParDcipatory AcDon research

GUBA’S CRITERIA (1985)

EvaluaDon criteria of the ethnographic paradigm

ConfirmaDon Transferability Credibility

QUALITATIVE APROACH/grounded Theory Glaser & Strauss, 1967; Strauss and Corbin,1990; Merriam, 2009)

>> SEMI-­‐STRUCTURED INTERVIEWS

>> OBSERVATION >> VIDEO AND AUDIO

RECORDS

>> IMERSION + VISITS FIELDWORK STUDY MAPUTO / LISBON

MODATEX

InterpretaDon Data analysis

SPACE OF MEDIATION DIALOGUE and TRUST

ConstrucBvist Approach

(Marshall, 1996)

+

Guided discovery (Mayer ,2004) + 'being' Ehrenfeld (2008)

REFLECTIVITY

PAR Empirical research

JULY 2014I Sofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report

The African tailors in Lisbon

Live and work at central immigrants’neighborhoods Rossio , Mar(m Moniz and city peripheries.

EducaDonal Plazorm EPAT: co-­‐design with African Tailors >>Immersion: OUTUBRO 2011/ DEZEMBRO 2012

Modatex

FLUXOS MIGRATÓRIOS SEM EPAT MIGRAÇÃO DE CONHECIMENTO DO EPAT

Maputo

EPAT

EDUCATIONAL PLATFORM FOR AFRICAN TAILORS Drawing, pajern making, cu~ng, sewing, informaDcs

JULY 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report

The paths of knowledge transmission

TAILORS

as culture regenerators

1

4

1 2

3

2 EPAT: ‘FORMAL’ EDUCATION BASED ON CULTURE

4

INFORMAL EDUCATION

3TH SPACE Of CULTURAL KNOWLEDGE PRODUCTION

3

3

USERS +

4

PRODUCTION CHAINS

JULY 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report

JULY 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report

“I’m not invisible”

JUIN 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report

6. ParDcipatory AcDon Research – BENEFITS PARTICIPATION/CO-­‐DESIGN ECONOMIC SUSTAINABILITY Local parDcipaDon in the global

SLOW-­‐ FASHION

Collaborate Work Together Think together Horizontal dialogues

Memories Fun at work Time(less) Create PosiDve Environment Care unique and singular garments priceless and Dmeless

Higher Quality ProducDon Social transformaDon Social inclusion Human development Employability

Values Compromise Self RepresentaDon Self/Group IdenDty Personal development

Pride Happiness Express EmoDons Share

AFECTIVITY

IDENTITY

Empower tailors' knowledge ‘self-­‐making’ (personhood, improving autonomy, hope and wellbeing) ‘place making’ (improving livelihood, behaviour, skills and enhancing the role as ciDzen and pracDDoners)

JULY 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report

LAB I – 2nd focus Group : The Immigrant Mozambican Women

CAPULANAR : PLATFORM WITH MOZAMBICAN WOMEN

JULY 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report

SEWED AND DESIGNED

BY THE TAILOR

?

DESIGNED BY THE STYLIST SEWED BY THE TAILOR

What’s in the border ?

Capulana + quimão

Fashionable capulana

TRADITION?

MODERNITY ?

QuesDoning

How can design become a tool to upgrade capulana tradiDon? 1-­‐ What may come aier capulana or capunana dress?

2-­‐ When we cut the cloth, do we sDll have a capulana or ceases to be capulana?

3-­‐ How to revitalize the tradiDonal pracDce of wearing an uncut capulana among young generaDons that think forward styles?

4-­‐ How to link the cultural concepts of capulana-­‐ based on affecDvity, slow-­‐fashion and co-­‐design-­‐ to the creaDon of consciousness fashion for the XXI century?

JULY 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report

THE ASSUMPTION

By developing a design program based on capulana cultural concepts with the Mozambican community we may achieve posiDve results on idenDty building and cultural sustainability.

7. METHODOLOGY I Proceeding ParDcipatory AcDon research CAPULANAR: co-­‐design with African Women UBI: UNIVERSIDADE BEIRA INTERIOR Seminary Workshop

MUSEU NACIONAL DO TRAJE Space of mediaDon and dialogue

PresentaDon NegoDaDon EffecDveness EvaluaDon

>> SEMI-­‐STRUCTURED INTERVIEWS

>>

OBSERVATION

>> FABRIC ANALYSIS FIELDWORK STUDY MAPUTO / LISBON InterpretaDon Data analysis

Slow Fashion

CAPULANAR

REFLECTIVITY

Empirical research: PAR AfecDvity CO-­‐ Design

JULY 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report

PRESENTATION

JULY 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report

NEGOTIATION

JULY 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report

EFECTIVENESS

JUIN 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report

EVALUATION How Capulanar has expanded?

JULY 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report

PRESENTATION

EVALUATION

NEGOTIATION

EFECTIVITY

JULY 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report

Collaborate Work Together Think together

Memories Fun at work Time(less) Create PosiDve Environment One size fits all Priceless and Dmeless

SLOW-­‐ FASHION

CO-­‐DESIGN

6. ParDcipatory AcDon Research I BENEFITS

Values Compromise Self RepresentaDon Cultural awareness

Proud Happiness Express EmoDons Share

AFECTIVITY

IDENTITY

Enhance cultural knowledge/ empower the individual IdenDty development: personality, autonomy well-­‐being)

JULY 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report

7. BIBLIOGRAPHIC RESEARCH Ethnographic Design QualitaDve Methods Sustainability -­‐ Sustainable Fashion Design for Sustainability African Fashion Material Culture African Tailors ImmigraDon policies Second-­‐hand Clothing

8. NEXT STEPS 1-­‐ WORKSHOP CAPULANAR AT MNT Note: since 2 May I’m waiDng for the signature of the president of FA for the protocol FA/MNT. Focus on

2. CONCLUSIONS 3. CONCLUSIONS I NEW QUESTIONS 4. FINAL CONCLUSIONS 5. WriDng the thesis

THANK YOU

Sofia Vilarinho vilarinho.sofia@gmail.com

hjp://d4capulana.wordpress.com