Mozambique’s Capulanas in a D4S design perspec9ve: iden9ty, tradi9on and fashion-‐able challenges in the XXI century.
JUIN 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report
Disciplinary intersecDons : HISTORY+ ETNOGRAPHY + FASHION DESIGN+ SUSTAINABILITY Aims >> To search for design methodologies to find fashion praxis (fashion-‐able), which enable a
refined work in the field of construcDon of idenDty, culture and sustainability. >>To introduce new epistemic and methodological design approaches that will contribute to a deeper reading about the Mozambican fabric, based on an historical and design perspecDve. >>To open up a debate about the conceptual potenDality of the fabric while asking for an alternaDve perspecDve, which not only dialogues Western fashions but invites for a deeper work and analysis about fashion-‐able pracDces with this fabric, to increase educaDon and design that is thought/readable from the African point of view and is able to include both idenDty and sustainability.
JUIN 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report
M A L A W
Lake Bangweulu
Mueda
a
Capulana TradiDon /Capulana Modernity
a lo ess M
CABO DELGADO
Quissanga
Nyasa
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Manica
Chimoio Dondo MANICA Beira
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MOZAMBIQUE
Massinga Morrumbene
Inhambane
Inharrime Guija Chibito Ma Quissico Magude X a n ja c a z M INDIAN ac i- X e ia Manhiça ai Moamba
SOUTH AFRICA
SWAZILAND
The boundaries and names shown and the designations used on this map do not imply official endorsement or acceptance by the United Nations.
Provincial capital Town, village Airport
MAPUTO
International boundary
n e Bela Vista
a
Mbabane
National capital
OCEAN
Maputo
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Namaacha
The tailors
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Ilha do Bazaruto Ilha Benguérua
Vilanculos
INHAMBANE
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Chicualacuala
No. 3706 Rev. 5 UNITED NATIONS 2004
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Chibabava Nova Mambone
Pretoria
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Lake Chifungwe
DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF THE CONGO
UNITED REPUBLIC OF
alawi ake M
MOZAMBIQUE
0 0
50 100 150 200 km 50
100
150 mi
Provincial boundary Main road Railroad
Department of Peacekeeping Operations Cartographic Section
Secondhand clothing
The stylists
Area of the field-‐study Maputo
3. PROBLEM CONTEXTUALIZATION
TRADITION Clothing as a cultural project NATION BUILDING GAP! Young generaDon’s contest Fashionable capulana Desire to be modern Western clothing
FRAGILE PRODUCTION CHAINS LACK of educaDon in Fashion and clothing producDon Most policy-‐makers and civil society pracDDoners do NOT RECOGNIZE tailor’s acDve role in parDcipaDng in urban creaDvity and African fashion Financial support is based on informal mechanisms precariousness of the social system and uncertainty about the future
SECONDHAND CLOTHING dual tensions: undermines tradiDon/ Raises representaDon
SEWED AND DESIGNED BY THE TAILOR
?
DESIGNED BY THE STYLIST SEWED BY THE TAILOR
What’s in the border ? Capulana + quimão
Fashionable capulana
TRADITION?
MODERNITY ?
INFORMAL SECTOR Poor Working condiDons no Water/no Electricity ApprenDce/Master work by custom order
MAY BE lower access to a ‘formal’ system of soi loan to help them to develop bejer working, or even a schooling/formal system to empower
knowledge and technical skills of this master tailors.
migraBon Africa/ Europe
HOPE SCHOOLING JOB CONDITIONS
How can contemporary fashion producDon based in capulana tradiDon contribute to reinforce idenDty and cultural sustainability?
4. Research Project Diagram
OVERVIEW OF THE RESEARCH STAGES
D4S: the pillars for sustainability PEOPLE
PLANET
PROFIT
Eco –design –Triple “P” “triple bojom line” by John Elkington 1997
Design for Sustainability by Crul and Diehl, 2004.
Design for Sustainability by Ehrenfeld, 2008
CAPULANA
A” golden” rectangle about 1,70/1.10 m
Cultural concepts vs sustainability Slow-‐fashion Co-‐design AffecDvity
4.RESEARCH STRUCTURE
LAB I – 1st focus group: the African Immigrant Tailors
EPAT: EDUCATIONAL PLATFORM FOR AFRICAN TAILORS
JUIN 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report
The quesDon
How can tailoring be re-‐appropriated as “formal” educaDon system, in order to upgrade African tailors knowledge and skills while at the same Dme meeDng the demands of bejer working condiDons and affirming idenDty in global contexts today?
JULY 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report
5.METHODOLOGY I Proceedings ParDcipatory AcDon research
GUBA’S CRITERIA (1985)
EvaluaDon criteria of the ethnographic paradigm
ConfirmaDon Transferability Credibility
QUALITATIVE APROACH/grounded Theory Glaser & Strauss, 1967; Strauss and Corbin,1990; Merriam, 2009)
>> SEMI-‐STRUCTURED INTERVIEWS
>> OBSERVATION >> VIDEO AND AUDIO
RECORDS >> IMERSION + VISITS FIELDWORK STUDY MAPUTO / LISBON
MODATEX
InterpretaDon Data analysis
SPACE OF MEDIATION DIALOGUE and TRUST
ConstrucBvist Approach
(Marshall, 1996)
+
Guided discovery (Mayer ,2004) + 'being' Ehrenfeld (2008)
REFLECTIVITY
PAR Empirical research
JULY 2014I Sofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report
The African tailors in Lisbon
Live and work at central immigrants’neighborhoods Rossio , Mar(m Moniz and city peripheries.
EducaDonal Plazorm EPAT: co-‐design with African Tailors >>Immersion: OUTUBRO 2011/ DEZEMBRO 2012
Modatex
FLUXOS MIGRATÓRIOS SEM EPAT MIGRAÇÃO DE CONHECIMENTO DO EPAT
Maputo
EPAT
EDUCATIONAL PLATFORM FOR AFRICAN TAILORS Drawing, pajern making, cu~ng, sewing, informaDcs
JULY 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report
The paths of knowledge transmission
TAILORS
as culture regenerators
1
4
1 2
3
2 EPAT: ‘FORMAL’ EDUCATION BASED ON CULTURE
4
INFORMAL EDUCATION
3TH SPACE Of CULTURAL KNOWLEDGE PRODUCTION
3
3
USERS +
4
PRODUCTION CHAINS
JULY 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report
JULY 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report
“I’m not invisible”
JUIN 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report
6. ParDcipatory AcDon Research – BENEFITS PARTICIPATION/CO-‐DESIGN ECONOMIC SUSTAINABILITY Local parDcipaDon in the global
SLOW-‐ FASHION
Collaborate Work Together Think together Horizontal dialogues
Memories Fun at work Time(less) Create PosiDve Environment Care unique and singular garments priceless and Dmeless
Higher Quality ProducDon Social transformaDon Social inclusion Human development Employability
Values Compromise Self RepresentaDon Self/Group IdenDty Personal development
Pride Happiness Express EmoDons Share
AFECTIVITY
IDENTITY
Empower tailors' knowledge ‘self-‐making’ (personhood, improving autonomy, hope and wellbeing) ‘place making’ (improving livelihood, behaviour, skills and enhancing the role as ciDzen and pracDDoners)
JULY 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report
LAB I – 2nd focus Group : The Immigrant Mozambican Women
CAPULANAR : PLATFORM WITH MOZAMBICAN WOMEN
JULY 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report
SEWED AND DESIGNED BY THE TAILOR
?
DESIGNED BY THE STYLIST SEWED BY THE TAILOR
What’s in the border ? Capulana + quimão
Fashionable capulana
TRADITION?
MODERNITY ?
QuesDoning
How can design become a tool to upgrade capulana tradiDon? 1-‐ What may come aier capulana or capunana dress? 2-‐ When we cut the cloth, do we sDll have a capulana or ceases to be capulana? 3-‐ How to revitalize the tradiDonal pracDce of wearing an uncut capulana among young generaDons that think forward styles? 4-‐ How to link the cultural concepts of capulana-‐ based on affecDvity, slow-‐fashion and co-‐design-‐ to the creaDon of consciousness fashion for the XXI century?
JULY 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report
THE ASSUMPTION
By developing a design program based on capulana cultural concepts with the Mozambican community we may achieve posiDve results on idenDty building and cultural sustainability.
7. METHODOLOGY I Proceeding ParDcipatory AcDon research CAPULANAR: co-‐design with African Women UBI: UNIVERSIDADE BEIRA INTERIOR Seminary Workshop
MUSEU NACIONAL DO TRAJE Space of mediaDon and dialogue
PresentaDon NegoDaDon EffecDveness EvaluaDon
>> SEMI-‐STRUCTURED INTERVIEWS
>>
OBSERVATION
>> FABRIC ANALYSIS FIELDWORK STUDY MAPUTO / LISBON InterpretaDon Data analysis
Slow Fashion
CAPULANAR
REFLECTIVITY
Empirical research: PAR AfecDvity CO-‐ Design
JULY 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report
PRESENTATION
JULY 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report
NEGOTIATION
JULY 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report
EFECTIVENESS
JUIN 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report
EVALUATION How Capulanar has expanded?
JULY 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report
PRESENTATION
EVALUATION
NEGOTIATION
EFECTIVITY
JULY 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report
Collaborate Work Together Think together
Memories Fun at work Time(less) Create PosiDve Environment One size fits all Priceless and Dmeless
SLOW-‐ FASHION
CO-‐DESIGN
6. ParDcipatory AcDon Research I BENEFITS
Values Compromise Self RepresentaDon Cultural awareness
Proud Happiness Express EmoDons Share
AFECTIVITY
IDENTITY
Enhance cultural knowledge/ empower the individual IdenDty development: personality, autonomy well-‐being)
JULY 2014ISofia VilarinhoIFAUTL IDESIGN PhD 3rd report
7. BIBLIOGRAPHIC RESEARCH Ethnographic Design QualitaDve Methods Sustainability -‐ Sustainable Fashion Design for Sustainability African Fashion Material Culture African Tailors ImmigraDon policies Second-‐hand Clothing
8. NEXT STEPS 1-‐ WORKSHOP CAPULANAR AT MNT Note: since 2 May I’m waiDng for the signature of the president of FA for the protocol FA/MNT. Focus on
2. CONCLUSIONS 3. CONCLUSIONS I NEW QUESTIONS 4. FINAL CONCLUSIONS 5. WriDng the thesis
THANK YOU Sofia Vilarinho vilarinho.sofia@gmail.com hjp://d4capulana.wordpress.com