SPRING 2015 NO. 1
11.90€
“ I’M HUMAN. IF I DIDN’T MAKE MISTAKES, I’D NEVER LEARN. YOU CAN ONLY GO FORWARD BY MAKING MISTAKES.” ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
MADE IN FRANCE
C O N T R I B U T O R S E D I T O R ’ S L E T T E R A C C O M P A N Y W I T H A G L A S S O F R O S E P A P E R L O N D O N MBFW:COUNTRY COMPARISON T H E O B S E S S I O N S C O L O R S T O R I E S T R E N D S EDITORIALS E A S T E R N E X P R E S S O R I E N T A L P U N K S P O R T Y S E V E N T I E S P O P T H E M A K E U P L I F E & S T Y L E O N E S T O W AT C H I N S O L I T E TRENDING:CLOTHING L I B R A R I E S A D D R E S S E S
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EDITOR IN CHIEF SABRINA B. SCHOLKOWSKI
PUBLISHER CHRISTOPHER BAILEY
C R E AT I V E D I R E C T I O N MATTHIEU JANSEN A N D I S I S M E TAY
EDITORIAL EDITORIAL DIRECTOR BIANCA KOKA
SENIOR EDITOR D IEGO LU N A
CONSULTING LORRAINE SCHMIDT
FASHION FA S H I O N D I R E C TO R SARA GALIN DO
S E N I O R FA S H I O N E D I T O R STEVE MORRIS
S E N I O R FA S H I O N A S S I S TA N T AL LEGRA FAGGION ATO
CONSULTANTS EDITOR AT LARGE KARIN A SC H ERBAKOVA
PR CLAUDE HILL
S EDITOR’S LETTER As this magazine started, I tried to put my heart in the content, design and layout. To bring a different take on fashion and lifestyle, a world cultured view on all things design, fashion, and color but keep it simple and readable. To not only write engaging content, but interesting and meaningful. Skron is all about the jetsetter multicultural lifestyle that fills fashionistas nowadays. There are very few, if any still of industry people coming from just one background or origin, and it’s time we celebrate differences and different countries.
ACCOMPANY WITH BY
To say I hated this book would be a bit of an overstatement and not necessarily true, length wise it’s perfect, not too long to bore, yet not to short to leave questions unanswered either; image wise it’s clean, simple and stylish both on the inside with the overall layout as well as the outside in the front and back covers.
A GLASS OF ROSE. SABRINA SCHOLKOWSKI
Having lived in Paris for a little under 2 years now, I have had an inside viewing of how the parisian mind works, both in men as in women and I can say that this book fits their personality perfectly. Cold, yet full of different emotion at the same time; funny and sarcastic yet slightly critical; full of themselves and a little cocky but undeniably intriguing and attractive, c’est
la France… and somehow Caroline de Maigret managed to fit all that fearlessness personality, well known to the country’s capital, into her writing and self explanatory book, How to be Parisian wherever you are. To say I’m intrigued is the least, I caught myself laughing at some of the chapters, some due to them being too ridiculous to take in all seriousness, others because they are on point and contrary to popular belief, might actually work from time to time; and others because it is thought to be true but ultimately is wishful thinking. The most hilarious of tips contained in this book, is the one titled: How to Make Him Think You Have a Lover, there are so many issues with this that could take hours to discuss, the title itself is simply outrageous, the reason someone would put this too good use baffles me beyond belief. Then again, it is part of their culture, their need for love and to express passion in each and any form which leads parisians to think of these as vital tips; and to put this out there as being okay to actually cheat on your partner is even more confusing and deceiving, Paris is known to be the city of love, the romantic getaway for lovers and this just becomes contradictory on its own. One thing I found particularly interesting, is not a chapter itself, but a quote and the meaning behind. “For the Parisienne, luxury should never be spelled out” fashionistas worldwide and wealthy people know better
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than anyone, that Paris is the place to come and shop, the place of flourishing fashion and where the best trends are found. This statement becomes a paradox because common belief is that Parisiennes are recognized by
being these stylish women dressed in designer garments, carrying their Chanel, Louis Vuitton or Celine bags all over Paris and enjoying life or having brunch, and can
be clearly recognized by these specific traits. To be truly parisian, is to know that the minute you walk into a snobby café carrying this season’s (clearly labelled) Chanel b ag, oozing this certain flair about you, you will be
treated immediately differently and are now automatically classified as parisienne. It could easily be compared to its similar, Classy, written by socialite Derek Blasberg in early 2010, similarities
ranging from the blunt and unapologetic way of writing to jokes and the description of their own culture, whereas in the latter, it is the american culture that could be criticized. This book is filled with contradictory statements and is a contradiction itself, but nonetheless a fun and simple read for anyone interested in the French (or more specifically) the paris culture and would like to peak their fascination. The fact of the matter is, to be able to be really parisian, involves living in the magical city itself. Because most of the tips and attitudes described and even the way of life could not be possible anywhere else in the world, because it has an allurement of its own. There is no other city where sitting by yourself, or having a sandwich or talking with friends on a bench is even remotely acceptable; there is no other city in the world where the men are as romantic, attractive yet bleak and ego-centrical; where the women are as empowered and in control of every situation they are even deemed as bitches; where it is acceptable to have a lover or an affair for whom you do not care for, but unacceptable to not know the accurate combinations of food and wine and how to plan a proper dinner party. The french culture is intriguing, and this book does a good job in portraying its qualities, as well as its defects, and to those who aren’t in constant contact or don’t have the opportunity to experience these in the flesh, it accurately describes life the parisian way and gives a glimpse into what the bourgeois have as beliefs and behaviors.
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When you work to please others you can’t succeed, but the things you do to satisfy yourself stand a chance of catching someone’s interest. -Marcel Proust, Pastiches et Melanges.
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FOLLOW U S F O R B A C K S TA G E , L I F E S T Y L E A N D I N S P I R AT I O N PICTURES FROM OUR EDITORIAL TEAM.
#SKRONTEMPORARY
THINK PERFECTLY CONSTRUCTED CÉLINE LINES, LUXURIOUS MATERIALS AND A ADD A WHOLE LOT OF COLOR, PATTERNS AND MIX IT WITH EDGY, AVANT-GARDE SILHOUETTES… VOILA YOU GET PAPER LONDON.
A young niche brand keeping it cool since 2011, under the penmanship of Philippa Thackery and Kelly Townsend. Paper is a typical British brand staying true to its english roots by being the perfect mix of contemporary while still remaining innovative; all this by creating experimental yet constructed garments, in which they maintain their edge and manage to be anything but rigid. Retracing their footsteps, you can see how the brand itself has evolved, it had begun as a stylish work clothes brand, catering to the mid-high level sector, and has slowly evolved and made its way into the trendy niche fashion market offering a solution to those wanting to express the little voices within their heads and refusing to be anything but boring.
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The perfect examples can be found looking through the SS 2015 and AW 2014 collections. In their most recent collection (SS 2015), we see their well known choice of a vivacious color palette which ranges from orange and yellow to forrest green, and white; and the way the designers mix fresh and flowy silhouettes, with heavier materials such as wool and silk as well as adding tropical touches like slightly animal inspired prints, and the occasional fringe. Shapes and items span from maxi dresses with open cuts, cropped tops and pants, to light coats and jumpers/rompers depending on how you might want to call them. Whereas in the latter collection (AW 2014), we see a more somber color scheme: wine red, purple and black, yet they manage to still remain vibrant with their color of choice, yellow and a touch of champagne colored satin.
Here, we also see a difference in cut, there is still the maxi dress but with a heavier type of material, and also length in garments has dropped, in accordance to temperature dropping during winter; keeping coherence between seasons and within the brand itself is not a simple task, to which Paper London has succeeded, you can easily put 2 and 2 together and match said collections with the firm. Quintessentially the brand satisfies a myriad of costumers as there is a style for everyone within each collection, and I would go as far as to say that anyone could find at least one piece they would gladly splurge on.
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hen again, not everything is rose colored and we do have to talk about the elephant in the room. At times it would seem that within their collections, there seems to be an excessive amount of different colors and textures which mixed and matched together start to become a little over the top and then the question while buying ultimately becomes: would I really wear a tri colored jumper, or be able to pull of a multi patterned dress? And don’t get me wrong here, I’m all up for bright colors and throw it in your face garments, but sometimes it can get a little too overwhelming. There seems to be a certain discrepancy within some of their pieces, it might seem that every so often, they try to cling onto the idea of being trendy, and so they can’t seem to find the balance between color, pattern, texture and cut and they end up with one or more items that end up being a big fashion faux pas such as in their SS 2015, a garment that caught my eye bordering the line of ridiculous is one of their dresses, which seems to have not decided wether it wants to be a maxi dress or a short dress and is stuck in the awkward middle, and it creates a confusion in fit as well, to me it just looks like bedsheets thrown on to resemble a dress, whereas in all
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certainty, this was possibly one of the hardest garments to confection within the collection. No brand is perfect and that is what becomes amusing within fashion, it all revolves around the clothes’ styling, which again also comes back to the specific niche target of the brand. Even the most hideous mistake, can become a glorious success when worn by a certain audience and in a certain way. Overall, Paper London is definitely a brand to watch and has become the apple of the eyes for many celebrities nowadays including the trendy Solange Knowles and Pippa Middleton and have become a regular during red carpet events. Their avant-garde silhouettes, bright patterns and extra glam touch to their clothes make it a fashionista must within our closets. It’s exciting to see what will happen over the course of the next seasons, and for now I have my eye on a piece or two going straight into my christmas wish-list.
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There is a bigger difference between Europe and the American continent than just a matter of trends and seasons or even temperature within the fashion world.
Fashion shows used to be about the up and coming designers, the new trends of the season, the new “IT” brand or article of clothing that would become a huge success and would be on demand all over and be the biggest rave as well as the hottest topic to discuss. And although this seems to be true for fashion shows taking place in London, Milan, Paris and some might even argue in the new up and coming fashion capital Moscow. Even if there is obviously a social factor involved within the making of the guest list such as who is who and their role within society/fashion world, this being a small amount of people who know people, daughters and sons of some important personalities, extremely wealthy people or lucky individuals, there is still a great ordeal of exclusivity kept in the organization of these shows. Not every one with an extra dime or two is invited in, only a small demographic of these parties is allowed to attend, and their places can not be bought, if you are part of this group of people, you have a significant role within society or are of importance to the public eye. But mostly, guests will consist in buyers, potential clients, influential fashion editors, as well as emerging talents, and well known
bloggers; essentially, people who have a say in what goes on in fashion. As the french would accurately describe, la crème de la crème of the fashion scene. Whereas in the American continent, considering Mercedes Benz New York and Mexico Fashion week (although the latter is in no comparison whatsoever with NYFW, for the purpose of differentiation it will be included as part of the sample) the opposite is true. As former 8 consecutive year regular attendee, Lincoln Sherman accurately described, fashion week has become less about the clothing and the evolution of style and more of a celebrity show where people only come to be seen instead of coming to be inspired by creative geniuses. These shows we all admire, have become nothing more than a social gathering for the elite; a place where seating charts define
where you stand in the world and the amount of power you behold, as well as who you’re friends with shows your wealth and status. When did it stop being about the clothes, concept and designers and become all about the guests and celebrity sightings? When did Kim Kardashian and Kanye West become regular front rows, and featured the headlines more than the new designer to watch? There is even a bigger phenomenon taking place outside these fashion shows, common fashionistas have brought it upon them to steal the spotlight and become the hottest trend, it is now acceptable to dress in the most outrageous clothes and over the top accessories in order to be photographed and
featured in blogs, magazines and newspapers. Not only is this happening, but these people have become extremely phony, not afraid to say whatever and agree with anything and give bogus opinions in order to be thought of as experts in the matter. Jimmy Kimmel has yet again proved this to be true in this year’s edition of Lie Witness News: NY Fashion Week, a camera crew was sent to Lincoln Center, where runway shows are held, to interview guests and fashionistas at the venue about makeup designers and shows. It is shocking and funny to an extent to see how these people concoct lies and opinions on what is presented to them, this goes to show that nowadays, guests at NYFW will do anything for a little bit of fame; the meaning of fashion week has been lost somewhere along the way, as Mr. Sherman worded: If you can look past the attention seeking celebrities and fauxialities trying to develop their fifteen minutes of fame, Fashion Week can reinvigorate and re inspire you in regards to your own journey through fashion. Which brings me to Mexico Fashion Week, as a national, I would love to only say nice things about it, in order to support my country and show pride in it, but the truth of the matter is, it is just as bad or worse than NYFW. Having had first hand experience in this, I can
consists in renowned editors, buyers and honestly say I was fairly disappointed in the socialites. structure and planning It stops being about the of this event. designers themselves, but Instead of being seen the who attended what as an achievement, If you can look and was photographed to have a renowned past the attention wearing which brand. Fashion Week, with seeking celebrities It is quite sad to see, talented emerging and fauxialities trying because we miss the designers and brands, to develop their fifteen positive aspects and a country that has come minutes of fame, great opportunities shown a long way (although far Fashion Week can at the event. from other countries in reinvigorate For example, every regards to fashion), this and re inspire you in season, ELLE holds a event is seen as a social contest called Elle Mexico gathering, a place to be regards to your own journey Diseña, which is held seen. through fashion. country wide, in which the Sponsored by American best next up and coming Express, owners of designer is chosen and black amex cards can given a place within request 2 tickets to fashion week, to produce and present his/her attend any day within the week of shows, and collection. are treated as VIPs, being honored with front row seats, private lounges and complimentary drinks next to actual and influential people, the minority of the event in this case, which
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ashion Week should be a celebration, in which designers, recent and veteran, showcase their latest and greatest creations, an ode to their talent; not a contest of popularity or socialite competition, there are some things the America’s can learn from European fashion weeks, keeping balance between attendees deeming to be the most important, as well as creativity in their shows, to take their designer personality and vision one step further and incorporate it not only in their collections, but in their runway performances as well.
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Carrie Bradshaw (Sex and the City)
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Every year the women of New York leave the past behind and look forward to the future… this is known as Fashion Week.
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THE COLORS THAT THE WEATHER AN INTERPRET LOOK
TRENDING STORIES
items including worldwide luxe brands for a premium shopping experience.
PANTONE PALETTES
items ranging from fashion, decor and food to indulge the senses.
OBSESSIONS UPLIFT THE SPIRIT AND MATCH AROUND THE GLOBE TO FULFILL DEEPEST DESIRES. . WHAT TO BE ON THE ATION OF
OUT FOR THIS SEASON.
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BRUNC H : SHOPPING: BIKINI BERLIN DRINKING: FRAGRANCES If the 5 star Ritz-Carlton Hotel’s main Curtain Club bar is not enough to amaze cocktail connoisseurs, the brand new concept bar in the back room, takes it to another level. Opened in June 2014, it is the first bar in the world dedicated to the art of cocktails in combination with the world of perfume. Hand-picked fragrances from Giorgio Armani, Yves Saint Laurent and Guerlain are the inspiration for the unique drinks created by legendary bar manager Arnd Heissen. Follow your senses and be enchanted with the outstanding drinks which are based on the exclusive aromas together with your personal memories and presented in stunning artistic fashion.
BIKINI BERLIN integrates the world’s first Concept Mall, a collection of carefully curated and compatible boutiques, concept and flagship stores and gastronomy and service providers. With its individual offer, the Concept Mall is aimed at a discerning, trend and style-conscious international audience with high standards on quality and shopping experience. In collaboration with innovative brands, BIKINI BERLIN STUDIO is presenting changing future-oriented retail concepts. Variety is therefore guaranteed. This innovative shopping concept ensures constant flux, remaining surprising and flexible and inspiring exciting dialogue.
HOTEL:
EIFFEL
MANDALA HOTEL
This spacious restaurant lies at the sleepy end of the Kurfürstendamm, far away from boutiques, department stores and crowds on the other end, but is popular with the well-heeled denizens of the neighbourhood. Young families and neatly polished mothers and daughters populate the tables, sipping their breakfast drinks and eating what may be the best egg dishes in Berlin. Superior eggs Benedict and fantastically sweet and creamy scrambled eggs with cherry tomatoes and chives are among the standouts.
This 5-star design hotel in central Berlin is located opposite the Sony Center in Potsdamer Platz and features an elegant spa, as well as free Wi-Fi. Mandala Hotel’s nonsmoking rooms and suites offer views of the courtyard or the modern buildings at Potsdamer Platz. They feature a balcony and air conditioning. The modern ONO Spa area includes saunas, relaxation areas and a fitness lounge. Massages and beauty treatments are also available. The Facil restaurant offers a daily breakfast buffet and a range of gourmet evening meals. Drinks and snacks can be enjoyed in the Qiu bar, or outside on the summer terrace.
Kurfürstendamm 105 E iffel-berlin.de
Potsdamer Straße 3 Themandala.de
Budapester Straße 38-50 B i ki n i b e r l i n .d e
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BRUNCH: HOTEL: SHOPPING: DRINKING: OLD CAFE Central, hip and recently renovated, the Old Fashion Café draws crowds throughout the week, especially during the hot summer months, when its open-air bars and heaving dancefloor are especially inviting. If beautiful people are what you’re after, Mondays and Saturdays are best; Wednesday is student night. This versatile space is located in the Palazzo dell’Arte of Milano in the heart of the historic Parco Sempione, just a few minutes walk from the center of the City. It’s been running since 1933 and has been recently renovated.
Viale Alemagna 6 O l d f a s h io n . i t
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GIO MORETTI Gio Moretti is to Milan what Colette represents for Paris: Authentic Avant Garde Shopping. The three marble and glass floors of the multibrand space contain some of the most representative and often one-of-a-kind clothing items, bags and accessories from famous labels such as Chloè, Lanvin, Balmain, Diane Van Funstenberg, Versace, Alberta Ferretti, Anna Molinari, Donna Karan and Malo, Loewe as well as trendier brand names like Phillip Lim and Giambattista Valli. The icing on the cake is a mini-bookstore, featuring lifestyle offerings, CDs, flowers and home accessories, which are also cool, of course. Via della Spiga, 4 G i o mo r e tti .c o m
EXCELSIOR GALLIA It reflects the essence of Milan’s sophistication. Originally opened in 1932, the hotel has been completely renovated by renowned designer Marco Piva. Piva has created an extraordinary new destination in the city of style. It features an extraordinary collection of 53 suites, including the unique Katara Suite on the 7th floor. The Katara Suite, is one of Italy’s largest at 1000 sq.m Behind the iconic art deco façade of this sparkling new hotel, there is a world of luxury to explore. Experience the inviting Roof Top Bar and Signature Restaurant with breathtaking terrace. Whitehall Place Co rint hia.co m
GSTF God save the local food is a hybrid: a bar, restaurant and shop in the neighborhood. It is located in the Tortona area, it is not only cool, but - in the order -Stylish, bright, sober, good (with peaks of “very good”) and honest quality it is rare to find concentrated in one place. It is a place to brunch with friends over the weekend: going just for breakfast would be a shame, because half of the charm of the restaurant is its minimal look Nordic heard only settling in the spacious white room overlooking the kitchen. Via Tortona, 34 G o ds avet hefo o d. i t
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B R UN C H : L A T E R R AZA A cosmopolitan meeting throughout the year at the foot of Parque del Buen Retiro and flanked by the historic center of Madrid. Saturdays and Sundays, you can enjoy the most complete brunch Madrid, with international dishes, cocktails palates, live music and the best parties. Laterraza at Ramses is full of life at all hours and it’s the perfect place oysters with champagne, an Iberian ham or crispy croquettes, the Spanish snack. Sunsets in front of the Puerta de Alcalá, discovering the charm of the nights of Madrid in a special and enveloping atmosphere. Plaza de la Independencia 4 R ams e s lif e . c o m
SHOPPING: ISOLEE More of a multi-faceted stop off point for the area’s cool kids to hang out, Isolée mixes café, with a carefully curated selection of music, clothes for both men and women and lifestyle bits & bobs. It may be a little on the expensive side for snacky sushi and bagels, but the coffees are excellent, the atmosphere in-the-know, and the eye-candy unbeatable. Plus, there’s the Moet & Chandon champagne bubble bar; and you can find some of the most important brands such as Misericordia, Madras, Albino, Arfango, Kloset, PLAY by Comme des Garçons, Red Valentino, Duffer, Monica Garcia, Juan Antonio Lopez, Mireya Ruiz. Infantas 19 I s o l e e .c o m
HOTEL: URBAN HOTEL The urban hotel of the 21st century, for gourmet luxury lovers wanting to escape tradition. A cosmopolitan place where there are no set rules. The liveliest terrace of the city and the most exquisite cuisine makes the Urban a place of reference for the most cosmopolitan. The Urban has 96 designer bedrooms, including duplex rooms and suites. The most sophisticated materials and the most exclusive decoration, passionately made for those who appreciate contemporary styles. Leather, dark woods, subtle lighting arranged in scenes, daring and seasonless decoration that will last over any fashion. Carrera de S. Jerónimo, 34 H o t elurban.co m
DRINKING: THE ROOF The private lift ride up to the terrace leads you to the most exclusive urban retreat in the whole of Madrid. It has become the hot spot in the city. Customers come to have a drink, they stay for the music then they come back to enjoy the unique atmosphere again. Inside you can relax in the lounge or go to the exclusive VIP bar, where the most glamorous celebrities in Madrid gather for unforgettable private parties. The bar itself is embedded in a broken stone wall. Plaza de Santa Ana, 14
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BRUNCH: HOTEL: SHOPPING: DRINKING: NIGHTJAR Nightjar opened in 2010 and has become such a huge success that it now operates an onlineonly booking system and charges your credit card if you don’t show up. Nightjar is a great bar. It’s a gorgeous, low-lit room with comfortable seating, smooth table service and a long, playful cocktail list divided into historical eras (pre-Prohibition, post-war and so on). This makes it a great place for experimenting, but you can also depend on expert handling of the classics. Early in the evening the sound system provides a discreet jazz and swing soundtrack; later the music goes live, with mostly jazz- and bluesorientated artists. 129 City Road Barn ig h t j a r. c o m
CELESTINE ELEVEN Is an alternative luxury store with a focus on pure holistic living that takes a mind-body-soul approach to the retail experience. The stores roster of brands mixes celebrated designers such as J.W. Anderson, Meadham Kirchhoff, Marios Schwab and Pamela Love with up and coming designers from around the world, such as Niels Peeraer and Joanne Stoker. An inspiring selection of lifestyle products, skin care, vitamins and supplements are available by Dr Jackson and Alexandra Soveral. In addition, there are alternative therapies and meditation classes such as yoga, reiki and acupuncture in-store, as well as pop-up shops and exhibitions. 4 Hol ly well Lane, Shoreditch C e l e s ti n e e l e ve n .c om
CORINTHIA HOTEL The luxurious Corinthia Hotel is located in one of London’s most prestigious areas. It boasts elegant restaurants, 2 bars, a florist, London’s largest spa and the world’s first hotel concession for Harrods. Spacious, air-conditioned rooms have luxurious décor blending the hotel’s 1885 character with stateof-the-art amenities. Guests can book award-winning spa and health treatments at ESPA Life at Corinthia. A luxury hair salon by celebrated hairdresser Daniel Galvin is also on site. With inspiration from world-class designers, the hotel’s beautiful lobbies and high ceilings greet guests on arrival. Whitehall Place Co rint hia.co m
THE W OL SE LE Y A self-proclaimed ‘caférestaurant in the grand European tradition’, the Wolseley combines London heritage and Viennese grandeur. Its black, gold and cream colour scheme suggests prestige, and you might easily imagine the buzz of conversation and the chink of crockery to have reverberated around the high ceilings since the 1920s. Yet the venue is only a decade old. place for experimenting, From oysters, steak tartare or soufflé suisse, via wiener schnitzel or grilled halibut with wilted spinach and béarnaise to tarte au citron or apple strudel, there’s something for everyone. 160 Piccadilly Thewo ls eley.co m
CONTRIBUTORS
styling by sabrina scholkowski contributing styling by jerica cabal and daniele morpurgo rita cheng and soyoung yoon - hair and makeup
PHOTOGRAPHERS fabio piemonte karina scherbakova gabrielle malewski
FA S H I O N E D I T O R I A L S
... FGD
EASTERN EXPRESS P U N K O R I E N TA L SPORTY 70’S POP THE COLOR
EASTERN EXPRESS STYLNG BY SABRINA SCHO PHOTOGRAPHY BY KARINA SH HAIR AND.MAKEUP BY FEZ M O D E L H E L E N A T O
LKOWSKI ERBAKOVA MARCEL E N N E S
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“
THE ORIENT HAS BEEN HAUNTING MEMORIES -EDWARD SAID.
SINCE ANTIQUITY A PLACE OF ROMANCE, EXOTIC BEINGS, AND REMARKABLE EXPERIENCES.
PUNK ORIENTAL
BY.SABRINA
SCHOLKOWSKI JERICA.CABAL.& DANIELE.MORPURGO
P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y .FABIO.PIEMONTE H A I R . A N D . M A K E U P. B Y MELISSA.GOUGEON.&.LINA.SLIMAN M . O . D . E . L . S O P E H E L I E . C O R R E I A AURORE.CHARRIER.(WOMEN)
SEVENTIES SPORT STYLNG BY SABRINA SCHO & D A N I E L E M O R P PHOTOGRAPHY BY FABIO H A I R B Y S O Y M A K E U P B Y R I T A MODEL GENEVIEVE (WOME
LKOWSKI U R G O PIEMONTE O U N G C H E N G N PA R I S )
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P O P THE
C O L O R
S T Y L I N G B Y S A B R I N A SCHOLKOWSKI M A K E U P BY R I TA C H E N G H A I R B Y S O Y O U N G M O D E L R A C H E L P L A N Q U E T T E PHOTOGRAPHY B Y G A B R I E L L E M A L E W S K I
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LIFE
REDEFINITION JETSETTERS PLACES TO TRENDING:
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STYLE
OF FASHION CAMPAIGNS . GUIDE TO THE FUTURE. BE & THINGS TO DO. MUST SEE OF THE SEASON .
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ONES
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TO WATCH DESIGNER TALENTS FOR 2015 WORTH KEEPING AN EYE ON. FROM LEGEND OFFSPRING TO EMERGING TALENTS AND NEW NAMES IN THE BUSINESS.
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N
icolaus Copernicus- the 16th century astronomer who was the first to propose that the earth was not the center of the universe- is finally getting his fashion moment. Coppering Femme, a buzzy new label launched by Parisian couple SĂŠbastien Meyer a n d A r n a u d Va i l l a n t , c i t e s t h e l o n g - d e a d r e v o l u t i o n a r y a s their main inspiration.
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We love the idea of system/ planet/technology/future/light/ warmness that comes from this n a m e , ” e x p l a i n s Va i l l a n t . While the inspiration may be out of this world, the result- streamlined shapes, elevated staples- is happily suited for real-life. Especially if you’re an impossibly chic Parisian woman, l i k e t h e p a i r ’s m u s e a n d f r i e n d L o l i t a J a c o b s , w h o s t a r r e d i n t h e b r a n d ’s first look book.
“As soon as a piece is ready we try it on Lolita to know what she likes and what she would like to improve,” s a y s Va i l l a n t . T h e d u o w o n l a s t y e a r ’s ANDAM First Collection Prize, and are set to rack up even more industry a c c o l a d e s t h i s y e a r. T h e y ’ v e b e e n s e l e c t e d f o r t h e Vo g u e Ta l e n t s C o r n e r in Milan, and are currently working on a collaboration with Massaro (the shoemaker for Chanel).
T h e y a l l h a v e a d i s t i n c t p e r s o n a l i t y. ” W h a t e v e r t h e i r p e r s o n a l i t y w e h a v e a feeling we’ll know where to find them: on the back of Lower East Side denizens, like fans of the brand stylist Kate Foley and model Soo Joo Park. “Our aesthetic reflects the vibe of downtown NYC,” says Liang. “We’re inspired by the energy and attitude of our girl- who happens to be very real. W e l i k e t o t h i n k s h e ’s t h e k i n d o f g i r l w h o w o u l d w e a r P a t a g o n i a a n d P r a d a t o g e t h e r o n a n o r m a l d a y. ”
F a n s o f S a n d y L i a n g ’s d e l i g h t f u l l y q u i r k y c o a t s ( a n d there are a lot of them) will rejoice over the direction of her Fall 2015 collection. “This season is definitely more outerwear focused,” says Liang on what to expect a t h e r u p c o m i n g s h o w. “ I t ’s a l s o a s m a l l e r c o l l e c t i o n , which allowed us to spend more time thinking about each piece. We named each coat and constantly find ourselves talking about them like they’re people!
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C l e a n . Q u i e t l y p o w e r f u l . S u b t l e . S p e c i a l . ” T h a t ’s h o w designer Kaelen Haworth describes the aesthetic b e h i n d h e r f i v e - y e a r- o l d l a b e l . A n d s h e ’s r i g h t o n t h e m o n e y. “ T h e K A E L E N g i r l i s a woman,” says Haworth, who became part of the third class of the prestigious CFDA Fashion Incubator program i n 2 0 1 4 . “ S h e ’s s e l f - a s s u r e d a n d c a n h a n d l e w e a r i n g clothes that require presence.”
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W h e n p u t t h a t w a y, i t ’s n o w o n d e r s t a r s l i k e M i n d y K a l i n g a n d B l a k e Lively have gravitated to her designs. And for fall 2014, the future l o o k s b r i g h t . L i t e r a l l y. “ F o r s o m e r e a s o n I a l w a y s l e a n t o w a r d b r i g h t e r color in the fall,” says Haworth on that to expect for her forthcoming collection. “It seems backwards but I actually prefer it because you need a little brightness in this season.”
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She lived up to the hype with a collection that combined kitschy slogans with thoroughly modern silhouettes (apparently inspired by Vietnamese prostitutes that began incorporating classic Americana into their look). The result was surprisingly wearableand a whole lot of fun.
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William showed for her very first time during London Fashion Week last season- not that you’d know it from t h e f r o n t r o w. T h o u g h t h e L o n d o n - b a s e d d e s i g n e r o n l y graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2012, she already counts It Girls like Alexa Chung and Pixie Geldof, and industry bigwigs like Colette buyer Sarah Andelman-all of whom attended her debut show- as fans.
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INSOLITE
INSOLITE
CARINE ROITFELD’S TAKE ON BEAUTY IN CR FA S H I O N B O O K # 6 . JOLIE LAIDE, OR LAIDE JOLIE?
BY SABRINA SCHOLKOWSKI
C
arine Roitfeld’s CR Fashion Book #6 did not let down on expectations. As usual, she didn’t just present us with insolite articles, breathtaking editorials and simple elegant graphics and layout, she gave us what we all secretly craved but no one had yet dared to accomplish. This issue’s theme, is jolie laide which means, beautiful ugly en francais. It is mainly focused on quirkyness, as we see perfect example, new model on the cover, Kitty Hayes (one of two shots) taken by Anthony Maule and was one of the 3 covers taken alongside Karl Lagerfeld. “In fashion, it’s always better to be an interesting person than a beautiful one. Character is much more fascinating than pure good looks. This idea is what inspired me to dedicate an issue to ‘jolie laide,’ a term that originated in the famous Serge Gainsbourg song of the same name,” said Carine as to why she chose the theme for this issue.
Some of the hottest names in fashion were collaborating in the magazine, models featured include: Emily Ratajkowski, Rosie HuntingtonWhiteley, Lindsey W ixon, Antonina Petkoviv, and Bella Hadid. And as mentioned previously, photographers included Karl Lagerfeld, Anthony Maule, Johnny Dufort and Michael Avedon. Carine Roitfeld has discovered many of today’s top models, such as Gigi Hadid and Lara Stone throughout her years at Vogue Paris so it is no surprise that she did the same for her personal project, CR Fashion Book. She left Vogue Paris in 2011, after a decade of working as editorin-chief, and since 2012 has been head of CR Fashion Book. It’s interesting how the fashion system works, if you look closely, it is comprised of a buddy system, networking connections, luck, and lastly talent. Sure there is talent needed to succeed, but that is not the main focus on the industry and only having talent will not get you far, or at least if it does, it will take you down a longer road. It is a buddy system in which friends help each other out, and career paths, collaborations and more are discovered over coffee and drinks. This proves to be true time and time again, a recent example is said to be seen in the upcoming Chanel Resort Collection Runway, an insider revealed the possible models walking the show.
CHERIE AS CHLOE
Nonetheless Carine’s new girls are going Also in her latest issue, is a feature editorial to be participating in her dear friend, long spread containing 72 different pictures of time collaborator and project partner, Karl mocking advertisements for famous fashion Lagerfeld’s new show. And for cover model Kitty brands using this season’s fashion. Hayes, this proves to be a great opportunity to A creative twist on editorial shoots, and a fun jumpstart her career, being on the right path way to portray the brand’s image in a more and the right side, she creative way. is sure to become one Personally, I believe it of Fashion’s Stars to was long overdue for Watch in 2016. something like this to In fashion, it’s always better to Overall, this just shows come out, it’s time we be an interesting person than a stop taking fashion so how much power of influence Carine seriously and have a beautiful one. Roitfeld still has on the little fun with it without industry much as her worrying about the American counterpart brand’s possible feelings Anna W intour, one say on the matter. or inch of an inclination As they say, there’s towards a certain model no such thing as bad or idea, and suddenly publicity, and even fellow colleagues will though this spread could want their piece of the be considered offensive puzzle as well. or too avant garde for It’s very interesting when some, I think it’s pure you see that even though she cut the wings of genius the way she masterfully played with the her Vogue Paris dynasty, the connections, and brand’s identity, the name and personality to reputation she made of herself will continue on create names such as: Salivating Forglamour and prove lucrative in her ongoing project CR (Salvatore Ferragamo), Alexalways W ins Fashion Book, which has now made a strong (Alexander Wang), Gutsy (Gucci), Proud name for itself within fashion. Scholar (Proenza Schouler), Love Me (Loewe), Roitfeld has an eye for this, she clearly has the amongst many others. vision and knows which buttons to push to get a positive reaction out of her audience.
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-CARINE ROITFELD
NEW NEW AS MIU MIU
SAINTS AND SINNERS AS SAINT LAURENT
TRENDING
CLOTHING
The problem: keeping in style whilst being for people to experiment with different styles ethically conscious. The solution? A clothing and wear high quality clothes without having to library that allows you to borrow whatever pay a high price tag—a benefit for those who you’re after with one affordable monthly, want to keep up with rapidly changing trends. annual or biannual membership fee. A creative twist on editorial shoots, and a fun If you’re a book lover, you know how much way to portray the brand’s image in a more value a library card can creative way. deliver compared to Yes, the project has a buying books outright. practical and serious A group of Swedish message but the overall e n t r e p r e n e u r s Our objective is to encourage scheme is about having recently created fun and celebrating style, experimentalism without iressponsible encouraging individual Lånegarderoben, the consumerism. first fashion apparel expression through library meant for dressing up. It also works consumers. So instead as a great promotion of checking out books, scheme for start-up members can check out designers too. They can everything from dresses submit a collection that to jeans. will be picked up, worn Lånegarderoben and admired by clothing members pay a fairly library members. inexpensive 400 kronor This phenomen has (approximately $65) started to spread 6-month membership fee. Members can borrow worldwide, now not only do they exist in three pieces of clothing for three weeks before Sweden, but Germany has also created their trading them in for something else. own, Barcelona, Madrid, Helsinki, even Paris The store’s motto is “lend like a friend,” and has joined the trend. the shop operates a bit like a best friend or It is doubtful that these Clothing libraries sister. The owners have added many of their will reduce significantly the fast fashion own clothing pieces to the lending wardrobe consumerism nowadays, but it is a great start and enjoy helping customers find new looks to to democratise fashion and make it affordable try out. They say their store makes it possible for everyone, as well as create
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-ROPATECA
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ADDRESSES
1. FENDI
neimanmarcus.com
2 . DKNY
l o r d a n d tay l o r . c o m
3. d o t a n d b o . c o m 4. VALENTINO
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nathalieschuterman . com
5. JIMMY CHOO n e ta p o r t e r . c o m 6. MSGM bysymphony.com 7. d o ta n b o . c o m 8. L E CREUS E T c r at e a n d b a r r e l . c o m 9. CHLOE (ref 1.) 10. ILLESTEVA (ref 5.) 120
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11. R&Y AUGUSTI barneys.com 12. ESTABLISHED AND SONS luisaviaroma.com 13. O TABLE artfulhome.com 14. AGENT PROVOCATEUR (ref 1.) 15. CHANEL (CHANEL stores) 16. YVES SALOMON (ref 5.) KILO SHOP kilo-shop.fr H&M hm.com EXPRESS express.com STYLIST OWN KILO SHOP (see above) STYLIST OWN H&M (see above) ZARA zara.com TOPSHOP topshop.com
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